Contents - EURO COSMETICS Magazine

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English/German
Contents:
Editorial 7
Cover Stories Focus Sun:
Interview with Dr. Ratan Chaudhuri,
3
Interview with Dr. Jochen Klock,
8
President & CEO Sytheon Ltd.
Head of Global Marketing Sun Care, DSM
Names & News16
Technical Articles
Expanded Protection Wavelength18
Testing Breakthrough for Enhanced
Evaluation of Sunscreen Agents
By Artyom Duev and Olga Dueva-Koganov
The Emerging New Face 22
of the Beauty and Health Category
By Magdy M. Abdel-Malik, Ph.D.
Targeted Delivery of Natural Skin Components28
to Restore Barrier Integrity:
Achieving Anti-Aging Health Benefits
By Dr. Sam Shefer
News & Talk
Dorota Niemczycka, Marketing Communications Manager, Lipotec
32
introduces their new product development
from Ayurveda tradition
Trends & Markets
European suncare trends 34
By Imogen Matthews
Regulation & Legislation
Navigating Sunscreens Regulations 36
By Karen Yarussi-King
ISO 16128 – truths and myths
38
A statement on what new ISO rules for natural
and organic cosmetics are – and what not
By BDIH
In-Cosmetics Paris – A Review
By Raluca Popescu-Erdmann
40
on behalf of EURO COSMETICS
New Ingredients45
Formulations48
New Products49
Packaging & Machines50
Events 52
CosmeticBusiness 2016 52
SUPPLIERS‘ DAY EDUCATION SESSION 53
65 Years BDiH 54
Advertiser’s Index55
Market-Place56
Impressum55
May 2016
24. JAHRGANG / VOLUME NO. 24
7 Editorial
Cover Stories
3 Fokus Sonne
3 Interview mit Dr. Ratan
Chaudhuri,
EURO
Präsident & CEO Sytheon Ltd.
8 Interview mit Dr. Jochen Klock,
Head of Global Marketing Sun Care, DSM
COSMETICS
Volume
Cover Stories –
Seite 3, 8
16Namen & Nachrichten
18Fachbeiträge
18 Expanded Protection Wavelength
22
28
·
No.
24
·
May
2016
Namen und
Nachrichten –
Seite 16
Testing Breakthroughfor Enhanced
Evaluation of Sunscreen Agents
Von Artyom Duev and Olga Dueva-Koganov
The Emerging New Face
of the Beauty and Health Category
Von Magdy M. Abdel-Malik, Ph.D.
Targeted Delivery of Natural Skin Components
to Restore Barrier Integrity:
Achieving Anti-Aging Health Benefits
Fachbeiträge –
Seite 18
Neue
Inhaltsstoffe –
Seite 45
Von Dr. Sam Shefer
32 News & Talk
Dorota Niemczycka, Marketing Communications
Manager, Lipotec
präsentiert ihre neue Produktentwicklung
aus der ajurvedischen Tradition
Neue
Produkte –
Seite 49
News & Talk –
Seite 32
34 Trends & Markets
European suncare trends
Von Imogen Matthews
36 Regulation & Legislation
36 Navigating Sunscreens Regulations
Von Karen Yarussi-King
ISO 16128 – truths and myths
A statement on what new ISO rules for natural
38
Verpackung & Maschinen –
Seite 50
and organic cosmetics are – and what not
By BDIH
40 In-Cosmetics Paris – A Review
Von Raluca Popescu-Erdmann
im Auftrag von EURO COSMETICS
45
48
49
50
52
Neue Inhaltsstoffe
Formulierungen
Neue Produkte
Verpackung & Maschinen
Veranstaltungen
52CosmeticBusiness 2016
53SUPPLIERS‘ DAY EDUCATION SESSION
5465 Jahre BDiH
55 Advertiser’s Index
56 Marktplatz
55 Impressum
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Plasma Rich in Cell Factors
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EDITORIAL
Dear Readers,
Liebe Leserinnen und Leser,
Summer – sun – fun?
Sommer – Sonne – Freude ?
We spoke with two experts about this issue’s topic: sun.
Dr. Jochen Klock, Head of Global Marketing Sun Care, DSM, tells
us about the emulsifier AMPHISOL® K, newly-developed by DSM
and suitable for all types of sun and skin care formulations. It can
also be used for a broad spectrum of other products including
body lotions and make-up products. Dr. Klock sees a significant
trend in sun care oils that leave a shimmer effect on the skin;
these are especially favored in Europe and in Latin America.
More on page 8.
Zum Fokus Thema Sonne haben wir zwei Experten befragt.
Dr. Jochen Klock, Head of Global Marketing Sun Care, DSM,
erzählt uns über den von DSM neu entwickelten Emulgator
AMPHISOL® K, der für alle Arten von Sonnen- und Hautpflege
Formulierungen geeignet ist und der darüber hinaus für eine
breite Produktpalette wie Körperlotionen oder auch Make-upProdukte verwendet werden kann. Einen bedeutenden Trend in
der Sonnenpflege sieht Dr. Klock in Sonnenschutzölen, die einen
Schimmer Effekt auf der Haut hinterlassen, besonders beliebt in
Europa und Lateinamerika. Mehr dazu auf Seite 8.
Dr. Ratan Chaudhuri, President and CEO of Sytheon Ltd. tells
us what's new in sun protection research and reveals new solution approaches (page 3).
Dr. Ratan Chaudhuri, Präsident und CEO von Sytheon Ltd.
erzählt uns Neues aus der Sonnenschutz Forschung und deckt
neue Lösungsansätze auf (Seite 3).
The need for multi-functional products in skin care is great; in
particular, the demand for UV protection in skin care and makeup products is increasing. Imogen Matthews provides us with the
latest data and explains what kind of progress there has been in
the development of innovative sun care products (page. 34).
Das Bedürfnis nach multifunktionalen Produkten in der Hautpflege ist groß, besonders die Nachfrage nach UV-Schutz in
Hauptpflege- und Make-up Produkten steigt. Imogen Matthews
gibt uns dazu die neuesten Daten und welche Fortschritte es in
der Entwicklung innovativer Sonnenpflegeprodukte gibt (Seite
34).
Karen Yarussi-King tells us more about the sun screens
regulation and their classification between the different markets
around the world (page 36)
Mehr zu den Sonnenschutz Regulierungen erzählt uns Karen
Yarussi-King, Seite 36, und erklärt die unterschiedlichen Einstufungen auf dem weltweiten Markt und deren Auswirkungen.
Now that we are back from in-cosmetics in Paris with many
new impressions, inspirations, and innovations, we have compiled everything you need to know in this issue. Read our report
on page 40.
Wieder zurück aus Paris von der in-cosmetics mit vielen neuen
Eindrücken, Inspirationen und Innovationen haben wir für Sie
alles Wissenswerte zusammengetragen. Unseren Nachbericht
dazu können Sie auf Seite 40 nachlesen.
In our next issue we will present the results of the survey
about current topics that we conducted among the exhibitors at
in-cosmetics in Paris.
In unserer nächsten Ausgabe werden wir Ihnen dann die
Ergebnisse unserer Umfrage, die wir auf der in-cosmetics in Paris
mit den Ausstellern zu aktuellen Themen geführt haben, präsentieren.
We wish you great pleasure reading this issue.
Wir wünschen nun viel Freude beim Lesen dieser Ausgabe.
Your EURO COSMETICS team
Ihr EURO COSMETICS Team
5-2016
7
EURO COSMETICS
NAMES & NEWS
wide, with the exception of
Korea.
BioSpectrum is renowned
for its experience in researching and developing natural raw
materials that can be used in
skin and hair care products.
The company has strong scientific capabilities in bioassay,
efficacy testing and claim
substantiation,which
allows
the design and development of
high-quality actives ingredients
for the cosmetics industry. All
of the ingredients are based on
state-of-the-art technology and
have been widely tested and
developed to meet the
demands and trends of the
cosmetics industry. n
The project team working together for the strategic partnership (from left to right):
Stephan Lynen, Head of Regional Business Line Asia BU ICS; Dr. Deok-Hoon Park,
CEO of BioSpectrum; Christian Vang, Head of Clariant BU ICS; Dr. Younghyun
Kim, Head of Sales and Marketing of BioSpectrum; Guido Appl, Head of Sales &
Application Personal Care and Industrial & Home Care Asia-Pacific Region.
(Photo: Clariant)
Seppic and Total Partnership
l
l
Bio-sourced emollients
New development opportunities for cosmetics
The increasingly high expectations of cosmetic formulation
chemists and consumers for
naturality, ingredient safety
and the sensorial feel of products are becoming major development focuses in cosmetic
ingredients.
To meet these expectations,
Seppic and Total Fluides combine their applied and commercial expertise, respectively
in cosmetic markets and development and production of
highly purified molecules.
Total Fluides, a recognized
international producer and
marketer of high-purity fluid
alkanes, and Seppic, a designer
of cosmetic specialty ingredients, signed an agreement on
April 11, 2016 for emollient development and marketing.
Their cooperation will lead
to the launch of a complete
range of high-purity alkane
emollients including a brand
new range of bio-sourced, biodegradable emollients that fully responds to the strong demands of today's cosmetics
market. n
5-2016
Kevin Gallagher Wins in-cosmetics
Lifetime Achievement Award
Kevin Gallagher, Croda International PLC’s recently retired president of Global Personal Care and Actives was announced as the winner of the
“Lifetime Achievement Award”
at this year’s in-cosmetics exhibition in Paris, France.
The Lifetime Achievement
Award recognises the outstanding professional accomplishments of individuals who
have made a significant impact
on the cosmetic and personal
care industry and is handed
out only once every three
years. The Award attracted entries from all corners of the
globe and Kevin was shortlisted by a panel of industry leaders for a public vote. He was
revealed as the winner of this
coveted award at a ceremony
at the Paris Exhibition, Porte
de Versailles on 13 April 2016
amongst tough competition
from the other two finalists – R.
Randall Wickett of R. Randall
Wickett Consulting and Patrice
Bellon, President of the French
Society of Cosmetic Chemists,
both of whom are highly regarded within the industry.
14
EURO COSMETICS
Kevin Gallagher’s illustrious
career with Croda spanned almost four decades and he left a
lasting legacy of innovation
within Croda’s business and
the industry itself, on his retirement in January 2016. He began his career with Croda as an
applications chemist in 1978
and held positions in R&D, QA,
Sales and Marketing before
moving into general management in 1989. He became the
first President of Croda’s Global Personal Care and Actives
when the group structure was
changed in 2014.
Speaking of his award, Kevin
Gallagher said “winning the
Lifetime Achievement Award is
a wonderful accolade that recognises true innovation and
commitment to the industry. I
am proud of my career with
Croda and for having been an
important part of the global
leadership team that created
the most successful personal
care ingredients”.
n
We want to market a new
sunscreen
applies clear when wet and is
sprayable , with no sticky feeling . It must
be stable , highly water−resistant and
use mineral filters . It should also be
fragrance− free , while helping
even skin tone .
that
Today’s customers want more—more functionality, more
protection and more natural ingredients. That’s where
Hallstar comes in. Our collaborative approach and
specialty chemistry expertise help you stay ahead of the
trends, work within tight requirements and manage global
regulations. Need a competitive edge? Contact Hallstar
about a custom formulated solution today.
www.hallstar.com/ec
NEW INGREDIENTS
The Dow Chemical Company
(NYSE:DOW), shared its latest
personal care technologies and
concepts at in-cosmetics in Paris
Optical blurring with great feel: EcoSmooth™ OptiTouch
More than six out of 10 consumers (51
percent male, 72 percent female) say they
worry about fine lines and wrinkles. At
the same time they consider the sensorial
characteristics as the third most influential
factor when choosing a skin care product
(Source: Datamonitor, December 2013).
Dow’s new multifunctional sensory additive EcoSmooth™ OptiTouch helps reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and skin imperfections while offer-
ing an additional velvety touch. It thus
combines highly desirable optical and
sensorial benefits.
As a monodispersed polyolefin with a
high refractive index it enables an excellent blurring and mattifying effect without
whiteness. The innovative technology is
very efficient at levels as low as three percent active and can be added to the water
phase of a formulation. Possible product
applications range from facial care to
foundations.
Dow introduced further debut seven
creative hero product concepts and 11 formulations for applications in sun care, facial care, skin care, cleansing, and hair
care, all of which are aligned with the latest market trends and needs. These novel
concepts and formulations combine prod-
uct innovations and existing technologies
from Dow in ingenious ways to create
amazing textures and sensorial benefits
that are capable of lifting the consumer
experience to new heights.
www.dow.com n
AkzoNobel launched new
humectant and enhanced
styling product
at In-Cosmetics Paris
AkzoNobel’s latest innovative ingredient for personal care applications provides formulators with the ability to meet
the growing consumer demand for longlasting and high-performance skin care
products. ElfaMoist AC humectant (pro-
www.etol.de
Ihre Produkte in sicheren Händen
Lohnherstellung für Arzneimittel – Medizinprodukte – Kosmetika
> Lohnherstellung
(auch ATEX-Explosionsschutz)
von flüssigen und halbfesten Produkten
> Lohnabfüllung, Konfektionierung
(auch ATEX-Explosionsschutz)
Tuben, Flaschen, Kanister
Spezialist
für Oral-Care
Produkte
Halle 3
Stand D 22
> Fertigung und Dokumentation nach GMP
Herstellungserlaubnis gemäß § 13 AMG.
Zertifiziert nach DIN EN ISO 9001 und
DIN EN ISO 13485
> Rezepturentwicklung
> Zulassung von Medizinprodukten
etol Gesundheitspflege- und Pharmaprodukte GmbH • Konrad-Adenauer-Straße 3 • D – 77704 Oberkirch
T. +49 7802 9265-0 • www.etol.de • [email protected]
etol-Pharma_Cosmetic_210x148_RZ.indd 1
5-2016
45
EURO COSMETICS
26.01.16 14:58
NEW INGREDIENTS
Europe and Asia, looking to develop
global chassis hair spray systems.”
www.akzonobel.com/personalcare
n
Sederma unveils a new approach
to pollution defence
posed INCI Name: N-Acetyl DGA) is an
effective active that easily penetrates inside the skin (stratum corneum), delivers
and increases hydration, and keeps skin
moisturized for 30 hours, even after a
single application. Equally important,
ElfaMoist AC humectant performs exceptionally without showing disruption to
the skin barrier, making it safe and gentle on skin.
ElfaMoist AC humectant was scientifically designed to deliver instant and
long-lasting moisturization without the
negative sensory impact of other humectants.
“AMPHOMER EDGE polymer (INCI
Name: Octylacrylamide/Acrylates/Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer)
provides the excellent stiffness and high
humidity resistance of our current AMPHOMER polymer but also offers improved long-lasting hold, durability and
unsurpassed style retention,” said Melissa
Vitale, AkzoNobel Global Marketing
Manager, Hair Styling. Designed for high
alcohol aerosol and non-aerosol sprays,
the polymer keeps volume in place for
over 24 hours. It also can be used in
aqueous styling gels, mousses, creams
and waxes, where strong, long-lasting
hold is desired.
“In addition,” said Vitale, “AMPHOMER
EDGE polymer is compatible in high
levels of hydrocarbon and/or dimethyl
ether systems, which makes it a great
selection for formulators, particularly in
With their new ingredient Citystem™,
Sederma is expanding the conversation
around the adverse effects of pollution on
skin. The new active ingredient is designed to fight against visible and invisible
pollution damage to the skin. This natural
active ingredient provides a new approach
to pollution’s effects on skin, with proven
results including:
–Protection of skin cells from the penetration of pollutants,
–Removal and neutralisation of toxic oxidant species,
– Strengthening of the skin barrier,
–Repair of cell metabolism.
Futhermore, Citystem™ is proven to
provide instant and long term cosmetic
benefits through consumer and clinical
studies. After four weeks, skin grain is refined, the complexion looks radiant and
purified and skin feels soft and smooth.
An instant overall improvement of skin
appearance was also observed in study
with 100 volunteers after only one application of a cosmetic containing Citystem™
for 10-15 minutes. Almost 80% of them
found their skin had long-lasting moisturisation and a healthy glow, while 84% of
them felt their skin was still refreshed the
next morning.
Additionally, to further the fight against
pollution, Citystem™ is developed from
Sederma’s eco-designed HTN™ plant cell
culture process. It also complies with the
Chinese regulation for cosmetic ingredients.
www.sederma.com n
Univar Presented New
“Savage Glamour”
at in-cosmetics in Paris 2016
Citystem T0
Univar has unveiled an edgy mix of the
latest personal care prototypes that spark
creativity and help create a fierce and
high-fashion look. The Savage Glamour
collection features 15 innovative skin care,
sun care, hair care, body care, and makeup formulations designed using Univar’s
broad portfolio of specialty ingredients
from leading producers, including Dow
Corning, Dow Personal Care, Kao, and Naturex.
Citystem T4 weeks
5-2016
46
EURO COSMETICS
Mibelle AG Biochemistry, 5033 Buchs / Switzerland, Phone + 41 (0)62 836 17 31
RoyalEpigen P5
Rejuvenation through
epigenetic science
Inspired by epigenetic science, RoyalEpigen P5 has been designed to delay the
aging of skin. Both lifestyles and environmental factors have an impact on the epigenome of skin cells and thus influence their vitality. This revolutionary active is based
on a biologically active peptide that mimics the function of royalactin. Recently, this
protein has been discovered in Royal Jelly as being responsible for the epigenetic
programming of the queen bees in hives. The peptide is formulated in a soft sphere
carrier system to ensure bioavailability and the best skin regeneration results.
• Accelerates epidermal regeneration for smoother skin
• Activates the cellular cleaning process
• Reveals a more evenly toned skin
RoyalEpigen P5 successfully stimulates the proteasomal activity to reduce the
accumulation of aged proteins in skin cells and activates epidermal cell renewal for
a refined and uniform skin texture.
www.mibellebiochemistry.com
PACKAGING & MACHINES
The packaging with that
extra special something
Packaging with viewing windows builds
trust as it offers the customer a view of the
contents. Whether it’s sausages, pet food,
cosmetics, or liquor, marketing managers
across industries are looking for packaging concepts that give the customer the
option to see the product without opening
the package.
The new Optima website adapts automatically to mobile devices such as smartphones and tablets.
Digitalization at OPTIMA:
New Website Online
Since April 25th, Optima from
Schwäbisch Hall, Germany, has been representing itself at www.optima-packaging.
com with an updated design and through
innovative technology.
Glimpsing into the Extensive Machine
Portfolio for the first Time
The featured machine solutions are the
central aspect of the new Optima website.
A specially designed and programmed
product database is working in the background for this very purpose. The users
can immerse themselves in Optima's machine portfolio using different categories
and customized filters. In doing do, the
results are updated on-the-fly and with
tremendous speed. There are additional
details for each machine as well as the option to contact Optima.
The product database also works as a
technical basis for promoting media-neutral data storage in the future. As a result,
additional marketing and sales activities
will be implemented faster and with sustainability.
redesign. The goal of implementing a flat
hierarchy with no more than three levels
has been achieved. This ensures that website users are able to access information
conveniently. The new and easy to locate
search function also provides a quick and
easy alternative.
Worldwide Launch in Multiple Steps
The company's new website had initially been revised for its four main branches
of business: Pharma, Consumer, Nonwovens and Life Science. The international
branches and subsidiaries will also appear
in the new, state-of-the-art look by the end
of the year.
Discover Optima's new digital world:
www.optima-packaging.com
n
But there’s more: Visually attractive effects due to the packaging design underscore the high quality of the products and
pique the curiosity of the shopper. With
the FoilPatch packaging, the STI Group
has created an innovation in folding box
design that offers more than just a simple
viewing window. FoilPatch offers new
possibilities in design and finishing that
cleverly combine the folding box and
viewing window. The print image of the
folding box can be carried precisely onto
the foil, showcasing the contents in an
eye-catching manner.
Design from one cast
The packaging shape stands out too,
because, regardless of the packaging design, the viewing window of the Foilpatch
can extend over one, two or three sides of
the packaging and can also have various
contours. Concave, convex or diamondshaped sides convey elegance, catch the
eye and give stopping power to the packaging on the shelf or the display.
www.sti-group.com
User-friendliness and Easy Navigation
Special attention was given to the user
interface and content structure during the
Insights of a special kind allows the new carton series of STI Group.
10-2015
51
EURO COSMETICS
n
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English/German
1955 2015
OF PASSION
English/German
Contents:
5
Editorial
5
Names & News
6
Names & News
6
Interview
A conversation with Nilesh Shah,
8
Global R&D Director of Dow Home, Institutional
and Personal Care Solutions, about new
effective anti-aging technologies
One ingredient that solves all the eye
contour concerns
Technical Articles
13
Use of Plant and Human Stem Cell Extracts
in Cosmeceutical Anti-Aging Products
and Vibrant Hair Styles
By Yuliya Berezkin and Dr. Yash Kamath
Specialty Silicones Provide Long-Lasting
26
Color Cosmetics: Their Anti-Aging Efficacy,
L I N K
T O
I N N O V A T I O N
S I N C E
1 9 5 5
Rossow - Headquarters, FRANCE - Tel: +33 (0)1 41 21 87 87 - [email protected] - www.rossow.fr
Rossow USA - New Jersey, USA - Toll free: +1 (855) 776-7769 - [email protected] - www.rossow-usa.com
33
Issues, Opportunities and Innovation
By Jeannette Graf, M.D.
Trends & Markets
Trends in ethnic cosmetics:
34
36
targeting the needs of a growth demographic
By Imogen Matthews
35
New Ingredients
New Products
By Sara Mason
New Ingredients
38
New Products
40
Formulations
30
Color and Unique Sensory Experience
By Marc Eeman et al.
30
By Imogen Matthews
Sara Speaks – The Promise of Stem Cells
for Skin & Hair Rejuvenation
22
Film Formers for Creating Long Lasting
European Business Development Manager
Cosmetics, Brenntag Holding GmbH,
about INNOVI’s new GPS-S
(Guiding Performance System - Surface)
Supported by 60 years of experience,
ŽƵƌĐŽŵƉĂŶLJ͛ƐƌŝĐŚŬŶŽǁůĞĚŐĞĂŶĚƉƌŽƐƉĞĐƟǀĞǀŝƐŝŽŶĐĂŶƉƌŽǀŝĚĞLJŽƵǁŝƚŚ
the resources to formulate your future.
16
By Howard Epstein, Ph. D. – Part 2
Unique Multifunctional Polyurethane
By Jeannette Jacknin, MD
Trends & Markets
Skin ageing: the evolution of the
anti-ageing trend
The Significance of Homeostasis
on Skin Aging
19
22
By Shyam Gupta, PhD
News & Talk
A conversation with Dr. Francois Bouton,
11
Cosmetics Application Technology,
Worlée Cosmetics
By Alicia Gimenez et al.
Cosmetics Contract Manufacturing:
A Bird's Eye View
A conversation with
Director of Development/
A cosmetic approach against cellular
ageing processes
By Angela Kleiner
EXPERIENCE
AT YOUR SERVICE
Interview
Florian Preuße, Dipl. Ing. (FH),
10
Senior Director of Customer Marketing,
MeadWestvaco (MWV)
Technical Articles
When skin is getting on in years
Specia
Contents:
Editorial
A conversation with Tracy Doherty,
20
Volume No.
RAW MATERIAL GUIDE 2015
41
Packaging & Machines
43
Events
Beyond Beauty Paris
Cosmetics Packaging
46
46
Advertiser’s Index
47
Market-Place
48
37
39
Formulations
42
Packaging & Machines
44
Events
CosmeticBusiness in Munich
in-cosmetics Brazil
in-cosmetics Korea
45
45
46
Advertiser’s Index
47
Market-Place
48
Event Calendar
51
Event Calendar
51
Impressum
47
Impressum
47
June 2015
23. JAHRGANG / VOLUME NO. 23
July/August 2015
23. JAHRGANG / VOLUME NO. 23
INTER-EURO MEDIEN GMBH
Euro Cosmetics
P.O.B. 440255 · D-80751 München/Germany
Phone: +49 (0) 89 / 36 03 74 27 · Fax: +49 (0) 89 / 32 66 75 53
[email protected]
www.eurocosmetics.de
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