Focus: Active ingredients 5/2013

Transcription

COS1305_01_Titel_GB_COS1305_01_Titel_GB. 07.05.13 14:43 Seite 1
E51280
COSMETICS
SPRAY TECHNOLOGY
MARKETING
Actives
Sustainable new
sources of actives
for cosmetics
Ingredients
How safe are the
controversial chemicals
used in cosmetics?
Marketing
Fragrance allergies –
an overview of the
current position
Packaging
Cosmopack review –
new ideas
at a glance
VIP of the Month
Dr. Gerd Mildau
from the CVUA
and Birgit Huber
of the IKW offer some comments on the
new EU Cosmetics Regulation
Focus: Active ingredients
5/2013
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EDITORIAL
A few hot
topics …
In the March issue of COSSMA fragrance houses
spoke about how, in their view, they saw the impact of
the SCCS statement on the subject of fragrance allergies. Some readers were surprised to see that the big
international fragrance houses were not represented
here. We did in fact ask international manufacturers
for their views, but none was ready at that time to
make a public statement. We can only speculate
about what was stopping them.
In the current issue starting on page 20 we now present a general statement from the point of view of an
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end product manufacturer and a perfumer, which,
among other things makes clear, the potential impact
of a rush to introduce legislation, for example on the
bath additives sector.
Another topic that is taxing the brains of the cosmetics industry is the following: there are still plenty of
studies being published that tell us how the inclusion
in cosmetics products of chemical substances can
cause cancer, lack of reproductive ability or other
damaging effects on fertility. Is there anything in all
this? You can read starting on page 12 the considered view of toxicologist Dr. Gerhard Nohynek, who
was head of global safety evaluation at L’Oréal for
many years.
A further topic that the industry is having to think
about is the new EU Cosmetics Directive. We can see
how sorting out legal details is not everyone’s “cup of
tea”, but the practical comments in the form of an interview with Dr. Gerd Mildau of the German CVUA,
giving the views of the monitoring authorities, and
with Birgit Huber of the IKW giving the views of the
association (starting on page 24), will be a useful aid
to many people when assessing the Directive.
Trends in active ingredients are another focus in this
issue. Jürgen Singer, MD and head of R&D at Neovi-
ta Cosmetics, is convinced that biotechnically-obtained
peptides will become ever more important when offering
consumers products to tackle a specific role rather than
fobbing them off with very general anti-ageing claims. He
sees other trends as pre-ageing actives to combat damaging environmental influences, actives to combat free radicals like superfruits, and soothing actives of natural origin
to reinforce the skin’s barrier for sensitive users, as well as
carrier systems where, given the uncertainty about nanotechnology, they can carry the active substance to exactly
where it is needed. And what other active ingredient
trends are there? You can discover more in an interview
with Babor’s head of R&D Andrea Weber, on page 16.
I hope you enjoy this issue,
yours
Angelika Meiss
Senior editor, COSSMA
Follow us on
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COSSMA 5 I 2013
3
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Contents
3
Editorial
쮿
NEWS
8
Markets + Profiles
쮿
FOCUS
Actives
10
10 I Plant-based meristematic cells for some
very promising actives
a Angela Kleiner, Croda:
Stem cells and meristematic cells –
New sources of actives for cosmetics
12
a Dr. Gerhard Nohynek, formerly L’Oréal:
Are parabens safe in cosmetics?
16
Interview with Andrea Weber, Babor:
Trend-setting actives in view
19
Vivienne Rudd, Mintel:
International launches
24 I The most
쮿
MARKETING
20
a Interview with Dr. Rainer Wohlfart,
Kneipp-Werke, and Erich Schmidt, perfumer:
The statement by the SCCS –
The key points summarised
important new
requirements in the
Cosmetics Directive –
short and to the point
23
Star of the Month:
Detergent with two-chamber technology
쮿
PRODUCTION
24
a Interview with Dr. Gerd Mildau, CVUA,
and Birgit Huber, IKW:
The new EU Cosmetics Directive –
Short and to the point: What is really changing?
26
28
32
35
36
28 I Cosmopack
review: new ideas
at a glance
32 I How white
cardboard can
accentuate the
brand image
New Ingredients
a Cosmopack 2013 – New ideas at a glance
Lars Scheidweiler, Sappi:
Paperboard’s numerous and versatile advantages
for strong branding
Airless – A breath of fresh air, but not for cosmetics
Packaging News
쮿
SERVICES
6
38
41
43
44
48
48
49
50
Download List
Formulations: Natural cosmetics
Events Diary
International B2B Exchange
Suppliers‘ Guide
Company Index
Advertisers‘ Index
Masthead Page
Trend statement by Markus Lüthy,
Elfetin Cosmetics
Preview
50
a Leading articles
Front cover picture: Max777, Shutterstock.com
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PersonalCare
Vivillume™
Recapture Skin’s Youthful Vitality
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*6*4-*)954*5'94.9,+59+*,59*4'9.93242'*5962),09
,+*9)59*)45'*5),9*4.59*)9,.)59,.97*56'9291652409
*66-*)2,5'91.65*.)
Key Claims
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SERVICES
DOWNLOAD
Free Downloads for Subscribers
...
. . . explains why Technotraf, a specialist for wood in
packaging, is a great addition to the Quadpack group
of companies.
COSSMA Download-Tip
Powerful innovation management
Innovation and innovation management have been used as mantras in all industries for a long time. But how can they be applied successfully? In spite of all the
customer-focused approaches in today’s organizations, some do not even know
who their customer is. This
is why it is important to
get out of the office or laboratory and watch your
customers work, live and
play. Hans W. Steisslinger
explains just how complex
successful
innovation
management really is.
COSSMA subscribers can
download further background information.
photo: Bonninstudio/Shutterstock.com
Click through our Web TV clips:
www.cossma.com/tv
A clearly structured innovation process should be
implemented
Top-Downloads for May
...
… points out in which areas of colour cosmetics packaging
the innovation process was most dynamic.
• Background:
Alternative Carrier Systems
(Sopharcos)
• Literature References:
photo: Nikolai Sorohin, Fotalia.de
Advertising and promotion of
cosmetic products
• Product Information:
BergaMuls ET 1 (Berg & Schmidt)
...
… talks about the company’s recent launches, many of
which are very suitable for natural cosmetics.
• Formulation:
Washable Facial Mask
(Lehmann & Voss)
Downloads
...
. . . explains the different aspects of the design relaunch for
the Beiersdorf brand „Nivea“.
6
COSSMA 5 I 2013
Additional information at
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Log in and take full advantage! On the COSSMA
web site we post lots of additional information
elated to the topics covered in the magazine.
You will find more than 1,000 useful additional items
to extend your knowledge and understanding:
more information on the ingredients and
finished products that we cover, market data and
statistics, supplier listings, literature references,
scientific articles, product formulations and useful
base formulations. Take a look right now, at
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THE NATURAL
PROGRESSION
IN BIOACTIVES
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ingredients target multiple biological pathways responsible for skin aging.
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We think you’ll be amazed.
UNITED STATES
T 888-331-6212
E [email protected]
EUROPE
T +41-41-469-69-66
E [email protected]
ASIA / PACIFIC
T +65 67738488
E [email protected]
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NEWS
MARKETS + PROFILES
Beiersdorf:
Georg W. Claussen
CPL Aromas:
Begum Oner
People
Adina Chemicals I Ken
Jones who previously worked as
Technical Innovations Sales Manager Personal Care at Stephenson has joined the company as
part of the technical sales team.
He will also continue to chair the
Society of Cosmetic Scientists
Wales and West RDG.
Avon I Lauren Andersen has
been named Global Celebrity
Make-up Artist to serve as a
global spokesperson for the
Avon Color brand. The newly
revamped color line, launching in
the summer of 2013, has been
reformulated featuring Color
Reveal Technology to deliver
high-impact color.
Drom:
Mark B. Murphy
Beiersdorf I Georg W.
Claussen, Honorary Chairman
of Beiersdorf, died in Hamburg
aged 100. As CEO and Head
of the Supervisory Board,
Claussen, the grand nephew of
Dr. Oscar Troplowitz who invented Nivea Creme in 1911, left a
lasting mark on Beiersdorf. In the
22 years as CEO from 1957 until
1979 he built Beiersdorf into an
international company growing
sales by nearly thirty times, introduced brands such as 8x4, atrix
and ph5 Eucerin and repurchased the rights to Nivea
brands that in many countries
had been confiscated during
the Second World War and sold
to other companies. Peter Feld,
who has been on the Beiersdorf
board since August 2010
Kneipp-Werke:
Dr. Peter Staib and ...
... Dr. Jürgen Blaak
and responsible for Europe and
North America, has left the
company.
CPL Aromas I Begum Oner,
who previously worked for IFF
as Sales Manager, has been appointed Business Development
Manager responsible for the
Turkish market based at offices
in Istanbul.
Drom I Mark B. Murphy, previously with IFF, Givaudan and
Symrise, has now joined Drom
Fragrances in Towaco, NJ as
Senior Account Manager in the
US sales team.
Kneipp-Werke I The highly
qualified microbiologist Dr. Peter
Staib, who was at the University
Rahn:
Dr. Martin Köther
of Lausanne in the department
of dermatology and a leader of
newly qualified students at the
Leibniz-Institute at the University
of Jena, has, since his post-doctoral lecturing qualification been
section head of cosmetics in the
R&D department of Kneipp. The
dermatologist Dr. Jürgen Blaak,
who as part of his microbiology
and skin physiology research
was looking into the function of
the epidermal barrier, now heads
up the area of dermatology and
cosmetic science.
Rahn I Dr. Martin Köther, previously Technical Sales Manager
at Mani, now holds the same
post at Rahn with responsibility
for North Germany and the
Benelux countries.
www.stolz-concept.de
We’re taking a (super)critical look at extract quality
FLAVEX ® Naturextrakte GmbH · [email protected] · www.flavex.com
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FOCUS: ACTIVES INGREDIENTS
Stem cells and meristematic cells
New sources of actives
for cosmetics
Since 2008 we have heard words such as plant stem cells, native
plant cells, plant cell technology, epidermal mother cells and adult
stem cells as part of an exciting new cosmetics trend. Angela
Kleiner of Croda offers an overview of the latest developments and
some future plans.
F
or the first time in 2008 a new anti-ageing care was to announced
that would protect epidermal
stem cells and support the skin’s ability to regenerate, which tends to fall off
with age.
This gave stem cell technology an
introduction into the world of cosmetics. Products that are now commercially available are mainly based on two
concepts. Apart from protecting the
skin’s mature stem cells active substances from plant stem cells or, even
better, meristematic cells are used and
can produce a very wide range of
actions.
Adult stem cells
in the epidermis
In contrast to the embryonic stem
cells the epidermal stem cells belong
to the group of multi-potent adult
stem cells which, in a limited number,
can differentiate into different cell
types. For example from an epidermal
stem cell no liver cells can evolve. Different from the multipotent epidermal
stem cells the so-called pluripotent
10
COSSMA 5 I 2013
stem cells can be at the origin of cells
of all tissue types. In the human body
this means around 220 different cell
types. They originate from the toti or
pluripotent stem cells which can be
observed as far as the 8-cell stage in
the embryonic development. Only
these early stem cells are in a position
to form a total organism.
Working on epidermal
stem cells
The adult stem cells in the skin play
an important part in homeostasis and
wound healing. Their ability to renew
themselves in an unrestricted manner
ensures that the epidermis remains intact. Their content in the basal mem-
Highly effective cosmetics ingredients
obtained from plants – in an environmentally friendly and sustainable way
photo: Kinetic Imagery, Shutterstock.com
photo: Mikhail Hoboton Popov, Shutterstock.com
An active from common lilac reduces inflamed papules and
skin redness
brane is estimated to be about 2–7%.
They migrate from the bulge region at
the hair follicle into the basal membrane since they are better protected
from environmental influences in the
bulge region.
The multipotent stem cells divide
symmetrically or asymmetrically. In
this way it is ensured that they replicate themselves and new differentiated cell types are formed.
The epidermis acts as a protective
shield against the outside environment. It constantly regenerates itself
to ensure that it always acts as an
effective barrier.
The stem cells contribute to the
constant renewal of the epidermis. The
impact of hazardous materials such as
oxidants does however change their
environment, their phenotype, and affect their future ability to proliferate.
A common way of confirming the regeneration potential of stem cells is to
measure their cloning ability. Using
this method cells are disseminated in
low density and after a specific period
of time one counts the number of
colonies with the naked eye.
The number of colonies makes it
possible to estimate the cloning ability of the original cell population.
The Resistem active was tested
using this protocol. In comparison
with a control culture the number of
cells was greater by a factor of 2.3.
This ingredient thus prevents the
changeover to the differentiated status
and maintains the proliferation potential of the stem cells.
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INGREDIENTS
Actives from plant-based
meristematic cells
It is not only the epidermal stem
cells that are of interest as the skin’s
own source of regeneration, but also
plant-based meristematic cells, which
are a source of new and innovative
actives. Here there is a fundamental
difference between human and plant
stem cells. Plant stem cells are located
in the apical meristem and continuously produce the cells required for the
plant to survive. A complete new organism can develop from all meristematic cells. At interfaces or fractures
complexes of undifferentiated cells are
formed with a meristematic character.
These plant-based stem cells are relatively easy to access. Of particular interest are secondary plant-based ingredients that cannot be easily synthesised or extracted. However, their
cultivation and elicitation, i.e. the targeted link to these biosynthetically de-
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fined ingredients, requires a fundamental technological expertise
Other advantages of plant cell
technology for obtaining specific ingredients are clear: no special cultivation of the land, no annual variation in
the composition of the plant material,
no use of plant foods or insecticides,
reduction of extraction solvents, protection of the general bio-diversity
and enrichment of the required ingredient. It is an environmentally-friendly
and sustainable way to obtain highly
effective cosmetic ingredients from
plants.
Cosmetic efficacy
The active substance Resistem obtained from the alpine plant Globularia cordifolia, the ball shaped flower
with heart-shaped leaves, is like a
bodyguard for the skin. The protective
action on epidermal stem cells described above is one of many proven
actions. Studies with keratinocytes, fibroblasts and skin explants confirm
that the active that promotes cell
regeneration and wound healing has
a detoxifying effect on cells and im-
proves the cells’ economic use of
energy.
In application studies it was seen
that skin redness was reduced and
irregularities in the skin seemed
smoother. Furthermore a soothing of
the skin was measured. The G. cordifolia plant, living under harsh conditions, has developed a protection
mechanism which also acts on the skin
and strengthens the skin’s defensive
power.
The alpine edelweiss, Leontopodium alpinum, is one of the most wellknown and symbolic alpine flowers.
These are flowers which are in danger
of disappearing in Germany and Austria und are now the subject of official
protection. Plant cell technology
opens up access to the active substance Leontocell. Its defined content
of antioxidative leontopodic acid allows the hyaluronidase and collagenase to be reduced. An application
study confirmed that with all of the test
volunteers the wrinkles around the
eyes were significantly less.
The Echinacell active is obtained
from the meristematic cells of the
Echinacea angustifolia (cone flower).
Using in vitro studies with fibroblasts it
was seen that it had a stimulating effect on collagen production. In an in vivo study one saw a hydrating effect and
an improvement in skin elasticity.
Marrubium vulgare, the common
horehound, is known for its detoxifying
action. The Marrucell active protects
the skin well against oxidative stress
factors which can form free radicals in
the skin.
Compared with substances with an
anti-oxidative action that are traditionally used it has a much stronger action.
At the same time it reinforces the skin’s
own detoxification system and supports the skin’s defence mechanism.
The lilac, a common flower seen in
many gardens, Syringa vulgaris L., was
shown to be very effective in the treatment of acne. Using Sebuless several
possible causes of acne can be combatted at once. The active ingredient
reduces both micro-organisms Propionibacterium acnes and Malassezia
furfur. They cause inflammation which
further promotes the problem. The active also inhibits the production of the
inflammation mediator IL-8. Furthermore it works on the enzyme 5-α-reductase minimising sebum produc-
FOCUS: ACTIVES
Anti-oxidative elements from the
protected alpine
edelweiss plant
can be used
thanks to plant
cell technology
photo: Porojnicu Stelian, Shutterstock.com
tion. An application study with volunteers between the ages of 15 and 25
confirmed the reduction in inflammatory spots and pustules and has a clear
effect in reducing skin redness.
So where are we heading?
In particular with regard to foodstuffs and cosmetics consumers are increasingly asking how the ingredients
are obtained and where they originate.
At the same time products must continue to meet performance requirements and to be effective.
In skin care today there are sustainable and environmentally friendly actives being produced with proven efficacy. Only in recent years closer attention has been paid to secondary plant
ingredients. The more we discover
about these extremely interesting substances and the more we increase our
available technical know-how to cultivate plant-based meristematic cells
the greater will be the range of actives
that the cosmetics industry will have
available.
Additional information can be found on the Internet
(see Internet panel)
Stem cells: how it all began
In 1981, as part of a medical research programme into
stem cells embryonic stem cells were isolated for the first
time from mouse blastocytes. 17 years later human
embryonic stem cells were isolated. In Germany this triggered some controversial discussion about the research
and use of these stem cells. The legislation introduced
in 2002 to ensure the protection of the embryonic cells in
connection with the import and use of human embryonic
stem cells also makes their import a punishable offence.
Exempted therefrom is the (from an ethical point of view)
uncritical research on adult stem cells offering very
promising therapeutic potential.
Angela Kleiner
Marketing Manager
Croda GmbH, Sederma GmbH
Nettetal, Germany
[email protected]
www.croda.com
COSSMA 5 I 2013
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Endocrine disruptors:
Are parabens, phthalates and other chemicals …
… safe in cosmetics?
Some scientists have suggested that
chemicals, including those used in
cosmetics, may be disrupting human
endocrine systems such as hormones
secreted by the ovaries, testes, and
thyroid. Human exposure to these substances may produce male infertility,
cancers and other adverse reproductive
effects. Dr. Gerhard Nohynek, ex-L’Oréal,
however, questions the endocrine disrupting activities of chemicals in cosmetics.
The result of the review conducted by
international expert groups was that
parabens used in cosmetics are safe
12
COSSMA 5I 2013
photo: Kubais, Shutterstock.com
S
ubstances used in cosmetics
products which have been falsely branded as endocrine disruptors (ED) (see box) include solvents,
such as diethyl phthalate, preservatives (parabens, triclosan), fragrances (polycyclic musks) or UV filters
(4-MBC).
It is true that certain phthalates
with a long side-chain length, such as
diethylhexyl- or butyl phthalates have
a tiny hormonal activity and may affect
male fertility in rats. In contrast, diethyl phthalate, which has been widely
used as a vehicle in fragrances, is completely devoid of hormonal activity. It
has been shown to be non-toxic in a
large number of safety evaluations and
has been rated to be safe for use in cosmetics by international expert groups,
such as the EU’s SCCS or the US CIR.
However, the chemical classification
”phthalate” became the target of repeated attacks by NGOs due to an alleged endocrine disrupting activity – in
other words: ”risk assessment on the
basis of chemical nomenclature”.
Long side-chain parabens, such as
butylparaben or propylparaben, but
not methyl- or ethylparaben have been
reported to show weak oestrogenic
activity and affect male fertility parameters in rats when administered subcutaneously or orally at high doses.
However, when these studies were repeated on larger scale and under conditions of GLP, no effect was found at
oral doses of up to 1,000 mg/kg/day.
Consequently, international expert
groups, such as the US CIR, recently reviewed the safety of parabens and decided that all parabens used in cosmetics are safe. In the EU, the maxi-
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mum concentrations of propyl- and
butylparabens were limited to 0.2%,
presumably by applying the precautionary principle.
In addition, there is growing evidence that parabens when used in
products applied to the skin are hydrolysed (i.e. de-toxified) in the skin
resulting in para-hydroxybenzoic acid,
a substance that is ubiquitous in
plants and human food, and which occurs in human breast milk. Thus it is
highly probable that the human organism is not exposed to parabens at all
when paraben-containing products are
applied to the skin, in other words: the
potential health risk is negligible or
absent. Finally, methylparaben is a sex
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pheromone of female canines, such as wolves or dogs, thus it
appears to promote, rather than inhibit reproduction.
What is important to note that in the definition of endocrine
disruptors (see box), the term ”adverse effect” appears, meaning
toxicity. In other words: only a substance that produces toxicity via
a hormonal or hormone-like mechanism is an ED. There are many
screening tests for potential EDs. However, these tests are designed only to prioritise substances that may be tested for ED
activity. Given that such screening tests do not identify toxicity,
they cannot identify EDs. In such screening tests, some substances may produce minor changes in hormone-related parameters. This means that they display a small biological activity, but
they are not EDs. Indeed, there are thousands of natural or synthetic substances that are positive in screening tests and possess
minor hormone-like activities without causing toxicity. Our food
for example is full of them. Such effects can be good, bad or neutral for the organism. To illustrate this: soy contains fairly powerful oestrogenic substances that may produce adverse effects in
reproductive toxicity studies. Thus, by definition, they are genuine
“endocrine disruptors”. However, Asian populations with a high
intake of soy or soy-based food tend to have lower rates of breast
cancer or cancer of the reproductive organs when compared to
those in Europe or the US, although breast cancer may be stimulated by oestrogens. Natural oestrogens or other hormone-like
substances are contained in clover, hops, Brussels sprouts, wine,
walnuts, linseed and many other plant foods. Given that soy phyto-oestrogens have been shown to adversely affect reproduction
in animals, they should be considered to be genuine “endocrine
disruptors” – although there is no evidence that they pose a risk to
human health. Ironically, pure soy oestrogens are marketed in
health food stores with the claim that they relieve menopausal
symptoms – although women in menopause are at greater risk of
breast cancer which may be susceptible to hormonal stimulation7.
The question of potency
The key question to be raised on the safety of substances with
a hormone-like activity is their potency. Both cyanide and table
salt can be toxic, but the toxicity of cyanide is far more potent than
that of table salt. As an example, oestradiol, the mammalian
female sex hormone, or synthetic oestrogens contained in oral
contraceptives, are extremely potent and active in microgram doses or at human plasma levels of ng/ml, whereas phthalates or
parabens are 100,000 to 1,000,000 times less potent. These differences in potency are far more dramatic than those between salt
and cyanide. Butylparaben, although falsely branded to be an ”endocrine disruptor”, showed some minor estrogenic activity (but
not toxicity) only when given to rats subcutaneously at doses of
about 600 mg/kg/day. This would correspond to a subcutaneous
dose of 36 grams in a human being in order to produce a minor
activity. Butylparaben on the skin, or given orally, produced no
oestrogenic effects. Taking this into account, it is toxicologically
implausible how butylparaben, when included at 0.2% in a cream,
could pose a risk to human health. Overall, the oestrogenic potency of the substances that may occur in cosmetics is so minute that
a risk to human health may be excluded5.
BASF BEAUTY CREATION
F O R A YO U N G E R S K I N
NEUROBIOX™
Botanical active from yarrow.
Rejuvenates skin by accelerating skin renewal, improves
the skin’s radiance, rebalances neuronal communication.
ULTRA FILLING SPHERES™
Microspheres of dehydrated hyaluronic acid and konjac
root glucomannan.
Immediate Fresh Kick by moisturizing and filling out
minor wrinkles.
LINEFACTOR™
Extract from hibiscus seeds.
Protects the skin’s natural fibroblast growth factor.
Stimulates collagen, GAG, aquaporin-3 and filaggrin
synthesis. Rejuvenates the skin.
Hypothesis of the testicular dysgenesis
syndrome
The testicular dysgenesis syndrome (TDS) is an unproven hypothesis that in Western industrialized countries human sperm
count is declining, the incidence of human testicular cancer is in- 쑺
Distributed by
IMPAG Import GmbH
Fritz-Remy-Straße 25
D-63071 Offenbach am Main
Tel.: +49 (0) 69 850 008 - 0
Fax: +49 (0) 69 850 008 - 90
E-Mail: [email protected]
Web: www.impag.de
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www.cossma.com
photo: Valentin Volkov, Shutterstock.com
Facts versus fiction
There is growing evidence that parabens when
used in topical products, are de-toxified in the skin
creasing and that the incidence of
cryptorchidism (undescended testis)
and hypospadias (abnormally placed
urethral opening) in new-born male
babies is increasing.
It has been hypothesized that an
increased incidence in the TDS may be
due to chemical ED in the human environment.
However, there is no evidence for a
general decline in sperm count: although some studies found a decline,
others found an increase in sperm
count2. A current study, the largest,
longest and best controlled study ever
done in this field, found no changes in
the sperm count of more than 5,000
Danish military recruits over a period
of 15 years3. It is typical for our times
that this study has not been published
for years – whereas far smaller studies
that claimed declining sperm counts
have been published. Such a ”publication bias” distorts the public perception and may produce imaginary
health risks.
Moreover, there is no scientific evidence for a general increase in the incidence of cryptorchidism or hypospa14
COSSMA 5 I 2013
dias; in addition these two pathologies
appear to be caused by different mechanisms, which casts doubt on a common origin or causal agent4. On the
other hand, there has been an increase
in the incidence in testicular cancer in
some Western countries, whereas the
incidence in other industrialized countries and regions appears to be stable.
Although the reason for this discrepancy remains unknown, there is no evidence that chemical EDs are the cause.
Overall, it is uncertain whether the TDS
actually exists and even more uncertain that chemical EDs are associated
with it4.
The terms ”endocrine disruptor” or
”hormone-like substances” are stigmatic terms, which are meaningless
in terms of human health risks. The
discussion about whether synthetic
chemicals with hormone-like activity
may pose a risk to human health is paradoxical: if such activities, however
small, should actually pose a potential
health risk, then it would make sense
to worry about all substances that possess such activities, particularly when
they are present in human food. Given
that a number of epidemiology studies
suggest that naturally occurring EDs
pose little or no risk to human health,
it is inconceivable how synthetic substances which are not eaten and have
only a fraction of the activity of natural
substances could be dangerous. Secondly, chemical pollution of the environment and human food has continuously decreased since the 1970s. If
chemicals really affected human fertility, we should see an improvement in
these parameters, and not a decline.
Generally, epidemiology studies attempt to determine the causes of diseases. But how can one determine the
cause of a disease, when the existence
of the disease itself is uncertain?
Therefore, the European Molecular
Biology Organisation rightly entitled
the quest for chemical EDs as “A cause
without a disease”6.
Overall, the endocrine disruptor
saga represents an aspect of a popular,
but simplistic tendency to blame
chemicals for all kinds of diverse human health problems – whether this
makes scientific sense or not. Average
humans consume about 100 µg of
oestrogen-equivalents per day from
natural sources, whereas industrial
chemicals in human food amount to
about 2.5 µg oestrogen equivalents.
Yet, all the environmentalists’ atten-
What are endocrine disruptors?
The endocrine system is the term for diverse hormonal systems in the mammalian organism,
such as thyroid hormones, hormones originating from the pancreas, ovaries, testes,
adrenals or the brain. Out of the numerous definitions of an endocrine disruptor (ED) the most
commonly agreed one is the following: ”An endocrine disruptor is an exogenous substance
that causes adverse health effects in the intact organism or its progeny, secondary/consequent to changes in endocrine function” (Weybridge, 1996). A similar definition has been
chosen by a UK-BfR (Germany) Expert Group in May 2011: An ED is an exogenous substance or mixture that alters function(s) of the endocrine system and consequently causes
adverse health effects in an intact organism, or its progeny or (sub) populations 1.
www.cossma.com
tion has been focused on that small number. To put these figures
into perspective: a single earlier type of birth control pill contains
about 17,000 µg of oestrogen equivalents, reflecting the dramatically greater potency of a genuine hormone. The contraceptive pill
represents a genuine ED, since it affects human reproductive
physiology. Oestradiols (natural or synthetic), may be toxic to reproduction at higher doses. Another known endocrine disruptor
affecting human fecundity, semen quality and the levels of male
reproductive hormones is obesity8. The growing incidence of
obesity in the population of industrialised countries may possibly
explain the decline in human semen quality reported by some
studies. Yet obesity is rarely discussed in the context of endocrine
disruption.
Today a popular belief is that in every human health problem
synthetic chemicals must play a key role. As this belief does not
tend to be based on scientific evidence this attitude really does
seem somewhat naïve, doesn’t it?
The reference list can be found on the Internet – see Internet panel
Dr. Gerhard Nohynek
formerly
Worldwide Safety Evaluation
L’Oréal
www.loreal.com
Ihr Private Label.
Perfekt realisiert.
Wir entwickeln, produzieren
und verpacken Ihr Produkt.
Unsere Spezialgebiete:
Besuchen Sie unsere Website:
www.privatebrand.ch
COS1305_16_Babor_GB_COS1305_16_Babor_GB 23.04.13 10:50 Seite 16
www.cossma.com
Trend-setting actives in view
Several interesting new actives are to be expected from
”blue biotechnology” which is the acquisition of new
substances from marine plant life
Which actives are, in your view, setting a
particular trend?
Andrea Weber, Head of
the R&D centre at Babor:
At the moment there is
not any really big trend
like we saw recently with
glycation. Today we talk about several
different subjects and possibilities in
the field of actives. At the moment we
are working a lot with peptides, which
can be synthesised for a specific functionality. In a new anti-cellulite product a hexapeptide, for example, helps
to prevent fat cells from maturing. In a
new fluid a neuro-receptor peptide
acts on the cells own receptors and so
improves the skin’s thickness and
structure. We have measured and seen
that in this way the depth of wrinkles
can be reduced by up to 58 percent.
Why are these actives immediately so
popular?
The big advantage of this peptide
is that it can be used very specifically
and can address different metabolic
processes.
Are stem cells still a trend-setting
subject?
Stem cells are still setting a trend
(see also page 10 ff). In new studies we
always find new possible applications.
The subject still has huge potential.
When it comes to choosing the right
path to follow one can acquire some
very specific ingredients which allow
the achievement of ever more impressive results. Also the subject of sustainability has a significant part to play
in the use of stem cells. They can be totally generated in the laboratory which
not only ensures a constant quality but
also protects nature’s rich plant kingdom and reduces transport costs for
plants brought in from exotic loca-
tions. This is a real advantage from the
sustainability point of view.
Like the way that peptides can be
synthesised for a specific task, and the
acquisition of plant-based metabolites
from plant cell cultures can be
achieved, we now have the possibility
to acquire new actives with the help of
“blue biotechnology”. Using this
method algae and marine plants are
used in a reactor to synthesise specific
actives. In the next few years it is almost certain that several products with
such interesting peptides will be coming onto the market.
[email protected]
www.babor.de
Peptides synthesised for a
specific functionality can
prevent, for instance, fat
cells from maturing and
visibly reduce wrinkles
photos: Babor
photo: Willyam Bradberry, Shutterstock.com
In an interview with COSSMA editor Angelika Meiss, Andrea Weber,
head of R&D at Babor, explains which actives are characterising
today’s market.
COS1305_Clariant.qxp_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 19.04.13 09:38 Seite 1
www.cossma.com
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www.cossma.com
Trends
Statements
Innovation
E-paper
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www.cossma.com
1.13
Vol.
cos
magazine
ZEITGEIST
REVEALED
Capturing the spirit of our times
MILK OR
CHOCOLATE?
Tanning and lightening solutions to reveal
healthy, radiant skin
FIERY, FEMININE,
FABULOUS
The fire of Venus: Ronastar® Copper Jewel
THE IN-BE-TEEN
YEARS
Feeling comfortable in teenage skin
304-058_cos_magazine_1_2013_210x297.indd 1
22.04.13 11:37
www.cossma.com
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www.cossma.com
w w w. m e r ck 4 c os met ics. co m
A New K it A s T ime M a rche s O n / 0 3
OUR VISION OF THE FUTURE
LASTING SKIN CARE:
THE “TIME PROJECTION” KIT
When it comes to fabulous skin, time is of the essence. And there’s no time like the present to ensure
the future is bright for a perfect complexion. That’s why Merck has created the “Time Projection” kit.
It contains formulations packed with powerful active ingredients designed to keep skin looking good
for the long term. With this new and innovative kit, we present five unique formulations to achieve
timeless skin care:
Speed Up Signaling (MDA-A-113-04)
A formulation packed with cell-communicating ingredients, this unique product slows down the ageing
process while offering advanced, broad spectrum UV protection. With RonaCare® Cyclopeptide-5 and
RonaCare® Luremin, it supports the elastic network of the dermis and provides powerful anti-wrinkle
properties – without irritating the skin. Eusolex® UV-PearlsTM OB-S make it a photostable sunscreen composition for optimum protection against the elements.
Colorful Science (MDA-A-153-01)
This beautifying foundation is the future of lightweight make-up solutions. Through a well-balanced combination of pigments from the Colorona® line and the slightly tinted Eusolex® T-PRO UV filter, this BB cream
formulation provides unbeatable coverage and luminosity without a heavy make-up look. The formulation is
rounded off with RonaCare® AP and RonaCare® Cyclopeptide-5 to protect the skin from premature ageing
and improve dermal elasticity.
Concept of Eye Illumination (MDA-A-124-03)
An ideal solution for eliminating dark circles, this advanced formulation contains three powerful ingredients:
RonaCare® Ectoin, RonaCare® Troxerutin, and RonaCare® Cyclopeptide-5. Together, these active ingredients
restore moisture, support the skin’s cellular defense system and counteract the effects of premature ageing.
There is no better way to protect the sensitive eye area against external stresses and enhance blood microcirculation around the eye for ultimate illumination.
Redesign Your Silhouette (MDA-A-129-07)
The body’s silhouette is strongly shaped by moisture levels and the “recoil” capacity of the skin. Three
impressive active ingredients combine to help redefine contours in this state-of-the-art formulation.
RonaCare® Ectoin, RonaCare® Nicotinamide (vitamin B3), and RonaCare® Cyclopeptide-5 work in several
ways to enhance form and definition. This formulation is the best solution for optimum moisture, cell
protection, a reduction in trans-epidermal water loss, stimulated collagen synthesis and improved skin
elasticity.
Erase Imperfection (MDA-A-128-05)
Teens aren’t alone in their quest for clear skin. Many adults face the problems associated with sensitive skin
such as acne and rosacea. The Erase Imperfection formulation relies on RonaCare® AP to reduce oiliness and
balance redness. Together with RonaCare® Salicylic Acid and RonaCare® Ectoin, it presents the best solution
to problem skin, protecting it from external stresses, moisture loss, excess sebum production and premature
ageing. Timiron® Silk Green has been added to the mix to even out redness and provide a natural, healthy
look for a fresh skin complexion.
www.cossma.com
0 4 / Sp e c i a l Re p o r t : Zeitgeist Revealed
CAPTURING THE SPIRIT OF OUR TIMES
“YOUR SPIRIT OF THE TIMES
IS, THEN, AT BOTTOM, YOUR
OWN SPIRIT, GENTLEMEN,
IN WHICH THE TIMES ARE
SEEN REFLECTED.“
(Faust, A Tragedy, Part 1, translation by Charles T. Brooks)
As our modern world becomes more and more
integrated, mobile and global, the industry is
adapting with innovative products and services.
But no matter where the winds of time may blow,
one standard will persevere: quality in cosmetic
formulations. This issue will feature inspiration
for creating products with timeless quality that,
at the same time, embody the spirit of the
present.
ZEI
TGE
IST
E
www.cossma.com
Special Repor t: F ir st I mp re ssio n s / 0 5
THERE’S NO SECOND CHANCE TO MAKE A FIRST IMPRESSION
COSMETICS ON
AN EMOTIONAL LEVEL
With most things in life, first impressions are
everything. This holds especially true in the world
of cosmetics. In a market overflowing with innovative new products and abounding with choice,
there’s no room for second chances if you want to
stay competitive. According to experts, a product
must appeal to the senses of sight, touch and
smell in order to evoke the emotions that inspire
consumers to buy. Thanks to Merck’s diverse
range of cosmetic pigments, you can create
eye-catching colors, luxury texture and cuttingedge effects that are sure to make an impact.
Research in neuromarketing reveals that emotions
drive buying behavior. If a product can inspire
consumers to feel something positive, if it can tap
into their senses on an intuitive level, then it can
generate unparalleled brand loyalty. Emotional
response to the look and feel of a product strongly
determines its perceived value. A striking color
combined with the right effects can create a lasting
visual impression. Effect pigments, if used properly,
can make products look high in quality – even in less
expensive formulations. A product’s texture also
plays an important role in the consumer’s instinctive
selection process.
Merck provides the raw materials necessary to best
position cosmetics products given these circumstances. A broad range of special effect pigments
based on 7 different substrates is perfect for lending
products the emotional layer that motivates consumers to buy. With the help of these pigments, formulators can achieve countless “looks and feels” and
create variety to appeal to different consumer
groups. It’s about getting the most from the special
appearance of effect pigments – and stirring up
emotions.
WANT TO REACH YOUR CUSTOMERS ON AN
EMOTIONAL LEVEL?
Take advantage of Merck’s service package, which
includes formulation support and color expertise
during product development.
Merck also has an application technology center
and offers in-house workshops to share its
knowledge and know-how.
Of course, factors such as age, background, gender,
season, and income play into buyer decisions as
well. Teenagers will have different wants and needs
than older consumers. The desired looks in Asia
differ from those in Europe. And the winds of change
constantly set sails for new innovation, inspiring
trends that reset cosmetics standards. How can
cosmetics formulators accommodate the demands of
such a diverse set of consumers and rapidly evolving
market?
HELLO?!
www.cossma.com
0 6 / N ew K it : H a p py Sunshine
ALL-NEW FORMULATIONS IDEAL FOR SUN CARE
MORE FUN IN THE SUN:
THE “HAPPY
SUNSHINE” KIT
NO MATTER WHERE WE GO, WE ARE EXPOSED TO SUNLIGHT ALL THROUGHOUT THE YEAR. AND JUST AS THE
SUN FUELS SO MANY PLANTS AND ANIMALS, IT ALSO PROVIDES OUR HUMAN BODIES WITH A NUMBER OF
BENEFITS. IT STIMULATES OUR IMMUNE SYSTEM, AND INCREASES BLOOD FLOW AND METABOLIC ACTIVITY TO
KEEP US HEALTHY. WE ALSO GET ESSENTIAL VITAMIN D FROM THE SUN, WHICH MAKES US GENERALLY
HAPPIER AND MORE RELAXED. BUT SUNLIGHT CAN BE HARMFUL IF WE DON’T TAKE THE RIGHT PRECAUTIONS.
IT’S TIME PEOPLE ENJOY THE POSITIVE BENEFITS OF THE SUN WITHOUT WORRYING ABOUT THE NEGATIVE
EFFECTS. HOW? WITH THE RIGHT SKIN CARE, OF COURSE.
Men, women and children generally have different wants and needs when it comes to sun protection.
Children tend to lose track of time when they’re out in the sun. Men want convenient products that are quick
and easy to apply. And women invest a lot of time in getting the perfect tan. Whatever the situation, Merck
can consult on formulations that hit the spot – all contained in the newly developed “Happy Sunshine” kit:
SAFE SUN CARE:
Ideal for children and people with sensitive skin. It includes non-penetrating Eusolex® UV filters – those that
don’t let free radicals come into direct contact with the skin – and has moisturizing effects to reduce irritation caused by exposure to sun. It’s great as an organic sunscreen with SPF 30 protection.
UNIVERSAL SUN DEFENSE:
A liquid sunscreen with a high protection factor (SPF 50) and very light skin feel. Although it is the one-sizefits-all solution in this sun care collection, this formulation is particularly attractive for women interested in
perfect radical protection and products with anti-ageing properties.
SPRAYABLE SUN DELIGHT:
A light, non-greasy spray texture popular among men with an SPF higher than 30. With mineral UV-TITAN
and organic filters for both oil and water phase emulsions, this formulation offers more than adequate cell
and UV protection.
CAREFREE SUN PLEASURE:
All-round protection against any level of sun exposure, not just for UVA/UVB but also infrared light. Designed
as a spray lotion with a protection factor higher than 50, this formulation is the perfect combination of
organic, inorganic and encapsulated Eusolex® filters.
So whether your customers are hitting the slopes or hitting the beach, the Happy Sunshine Kit offers ideal
protection. For healthier skin. For more fun in the sun.
Interested? Please contact us at [email protected]
www.cossma.com
Trend F orecas t/Rona sta r® Co p p e r Jewe l / 0 7
TREND FORECASTS HIGHLIGHT NEW LOOKS AND ACTIVE INGREDIENTS
UPCOMING TRENDS
Merck introduced its first Trend Forecast for active ingredients at the Sepawa Congress in 2013. We will
continue following the cosmetics Zeitgeist with our second skin care edition, just in time for in-cosmetics in
2014. Better yet, you can count on our trend expertise every year from now on.
The trend forecast will give cosmetics formulators a sneak peak on upcoming trends as well as point out
active ingredients from the Merck portfolio that can be used to create top-selling products à la mode. Using a
range of imagined product concepts, labeling designs, targeted slogans and associated wording, the forecast
will also illustrate the potential in these trends to help you capture that essence on the market in a way that
resonates with consumers.
How does it work? Professional agencies like Carlin and Peclers will observe a range of areas to pinpoint the
latest trends. From long-term movements in innovation, politics and demographics to seasonal trends in art,
film, music and design, there is a wealth of inspiration waiting to be discovered and worked into cosmetics
formulations.
THE FIRE OF VENUS: RONASTAR® COPPER JEWEL
FIERY, FEMININE, FABULOUS
Harness the warm, elegant properties of copper in an all-new way. With Ronastar® Copper Jewel, we’ve
created an effect pigment that brings out the full beauty of this orange-brown hue. No longer a specialty for
the likes of Aphrodite and Venus, the bold color achieved by this cosmetic pigment allows everyone to indulge
in pure luxury. The pigment’s versatility makes it ideal for use in a wide range of products. In decorative
cosmetics, it creates eye-catching sparkling effects and offers great covering power.
Like its companion, Ronastar® Golden Jewel, this coppery pigment produces a fantastic chromatic effect.
The lustrous beauty of Ronastar® Copper Jewel lies in its composition: Large, flat platelets lend the pigment
its unique glow. As a result, its soft, warm quality and elegant shimmer can add subtle highlights to any look.
Used on its own, it produces maximum copper effects that are marked by a beautiful iridescence and
intense color.
www.cossma.com
INTERSECTIONS
The merging of multiplicity, mastered in this eclectic
mix of cross-cultural references plus a transition
through time. Edgy beauty plays with tribal inspiration, a palette of deep reds underscored by white,
black, or both. With tones ranging from ebony to
ivory, from luscious leather to rustic linen, the eyes
can be smoky and enhanced with smudged mascara.
Brows or parted hair can be intensified, with nails
showing off fancy ornamental motifs and lips either
decked in intense two-tone effects, or pale and plain.
The spring.summer 2014 color forecast rings in the refreshing revival of creative energy. As the new
worldwide wave of reinvention breaks free, it will inspire richer and more innovative styles, a flood of
flourishing, fanciful effects, paralleled by the more discreet and refined. While some return to a world
of wonder by reinterpreting former beauty ideals, others will explore newfound creativity reflected in
drama and luxury. Alternatively, cultural references will interplay in time and location. Others, still, will
allow the imagination to wander off the beaten path and explore the exotic. New vigor will re-emerge
in spring.summer 2014, which we explore in association with Peclers Paris.
PSYCHE
The globetrotter revels in fantasy and spiritual
odyssey, an exotic approach to island beauty styles.
A rich, deep flood of intense metallic colors is
splashed hedonistically across the eyes, lips and
cheeks. The multicolored palette flourishes in fresh,
energetic tones. Menthol green emphasizes the
eyes with fuchsia pink on the lips and a fantasy
of tie-dyed colors on the hair. The glam jet-setter
attitude is underscored by wet look hairstyles.
www.cossma.com
Co lo r F o re c a st / 0 9
SUBLIMED
Where are you now, couture heritage of the 1950s?
The sophisticated ideals, so soft yet striking, are
unveiled in powdery pastels based on a perfect
complexion of smooth, sumptuous porcelain. The
shadows and cool tones on the eyes warm to a fanciful flush of terracota or coral cheeks. The luscious
lips indulge in tints or nudity, even reveries of glossy
textures. The nails draw inspiration on patterns of
pastry.
SPRING.SUMMER 2014
COLOR FORECAST
EXPLOSIVE
Urban sophistication bursts forth with energy and
striking effects, a bronze and khaki palette, accentuated with a glow of terracota and cheeks that call
out to explore and play with both light and shade.
In a flash of theatrical inspiration, the features are
sculpted for more dazzling definition, with bold
smoky eyes, offset or tempered with bleached brows.
As the lips entice in sheer iridescence, nail polish
makes for a striking debut with novel, monochromatic khakhi tones.
www.cossma.com
1 0 / M i l k or C h oc ol a te
TANNING AND LIGHTENING SOLUTIONS TO REVEAL HEALTHY, RADIANT SKIN
MILK OR
CHOCOL ATE?
Everyone wants beautiful skin. Though people may disagree on how to define perfection, there’s no doubt it should be firm, clear and
even in tone. While someone with a darker base color might want to use lightening products, there is sure to be a fair-skinned
counterpart hoping to achieve that perfect, healthy tan. Now everyone can get what they’re looking for with the “Milk or Chocolate”
kit for spring.
The most important factor in a perfect complexion is balance. Regardless of whether someone prefers a darker or a lighter skin tone, it’s
important that all areas of the skin match. In some regions, this is especially important in the springtime, when pleasant weather lets us
cast off the shackles of heavy winter wear. Who doesn’t want to make their best impression in more revealing clothing?
Merck’s “Milk or Chocolate” kit can be formulated to address demand for either tanning or lightening while tackling the common
problems of any skin type: oily, acne-prone or sensitive. In colder regions, it’s perfectly formulated to combat the dry dullness caused by
harsh winter conditions. Other active ingredients work against skin irritations or dark spots caused by environmental factors.
This innovative kit can support stressed skin through effective cleansing and complexion enhancement. And it isn’t only useful in
regenerating winter-damaged skin – it’s also a great way to prepare skin for more exposure to the elements. Formulation examples
contain UV protection, moisturizers, anti-inflammatory agents and anti-acne ingredients. The kit could include:
• An all-over peeling to prepare the skin on a large scale
• Two multipurpose products for either tanning and whitening
• A tanning product for beautiful legs
That’s four products with advanced formulations to achieve beautiful, healthy-looking skin.
So if you are looking to add new innovations to your product line, look no further
than the “Milk or Chocolate” kit from Merck. Our sample formulations offer fantastic
solutions for companies who want to help customers address problem skin while
achieving a perfect look for any trend.
www.cossma.com
T h e I n -Be -Te e n Ye a r s / 11
FEELING COMFORTABLE IN TEENAGE SKIN
THE IN-BE-TEEN YEARS
Teenagers want to feel comfortable in their own skin.
What’s more, they want to look good and play with
colors and effects. A wide range of RonaCare® and
RonaFlair® products can help teens cover up and
correct problem areas without the look of heavy
makeup. The idea: cleansing, caring for and highlighting natural, youthful beauty.
The RonaCare® line is ideal for daily skin cleansers or
astringents that prevent breakouts. Used in combination with RonaFlair® functional fillers, these
products can absorb excess oil and balance out the
complexion to leave the skin looking fresh and
young. Cosmetic pigments can be used in beauty
products such as nourishing lip care to add the dash
of color and sparkle that gives girls a subtle feminine
touch. For the boys, care products that concentrate
on healthy, clear skin are the way to go.
Using ingredients in this way – to add substance to
products by making them appealing and comfortable
for young people to wear – is the best way to
captivate young consumers. Here too, ingredient
combinations can be formulated to fall in line with
trends while meeting the unique needs of today’s
youth.
www.cossma.com
1 2 / F e e l th e D i f f e r e n ce/Oxyne x® S T L I Q UI D
A STUDY WITH A SENSE FOR WHAT CONSUMERS WANT
PRESERVING SKINCARE PRODUCTS WITH OXYNEX® ST LIQUID
FEEL THE DIFFERENCE A WIN-WIN INGREDIENT
A cosmetic product that feels good to the touch can
make you feel good too. But from person to person,
this sensation might not be the same.
Fillers can add texture to cosmetics, creating a
variety of skin feels to cater to different consumer
tastes. A new sensory study took a look at customer
reception of certain fillers to help pinpoint their
effects in cosmetics formulations.
Merck asked participants to define skin feel in a
number of cosmetic fillers. Later, products were
classified according to these characteristics and
entered into a database. Formulators can now use
this table to find a suitable filler for the desired feel.
Looking for a filler that lends facial products a
“creamy” feeling? RonaFlair® Boroneige® SF6 is the
right choice. Do your customers want something
with a powdery, mattifying effect to absorb oil and
even out skin tone? RonaFlair® Softshade will do the
trick. If you search for a filler with a rolling effect,
the table will point you to RonaFlair® Soft Sphere.
It’s easy, it’s practical, and it’s based on feedback
straight from your own customer base.
Customers want cosmetics products that smell and look fresh – from the moment
they see them on the shelf, and each time they use them at home after that. If
cosmetics don’t look their best in the store, they won’t get sold. Likewise, a product
that loses its potency too quickly won’t be a user’s first pick the second time around.
With Oxynex® ST Liquid, formulators are given the key to preserving product quality.
Oxynex® ST Liquid is a substance that stabilizes color and smell due to its antioxidant properties. Its benefits are twofold: The active component in Oxynex® ST
Liquid quenches free radicals responsible for destroying colorants or altering
fragrance, while simultaneously photostabilizing light-sensitive ingredients. More
and more formulators are using Oxynex® ST Liquid to offer consumers premium
quality that lasts:
“We have been using Oxynex® ST Liquid in our products since 2006, and have had
a lot of success with it. In our experience, Oxynex® ST Liquid is a very effective raw
material for the protection of product quality. It
prevents fading or discoloration of fillers, and
preserves any light-sensitive substances
within the formulation. The product
will help us continue promising our
customers reliable and visually
appealing products.”
Dr. Harald Albrecht
Director of Research & Development,
Weckerle Cosmetics (Eislingen, Germany)
Interested in enhancing
your formulations
with this brilliant tool?
Contact us as
[email protected]
or order your filler brochure now!
www.cossma.com
This Ju st I n : N ew Stu d ies / 1 3
NEW STUDIES HIGHLIGHT RONACARE® CYCLOPEPTIDE-5 AND RONACARE® ISOQUERCETIN
THE SCIENCE BEHIND YOUNGERLOOKING SKIN
Two new studies have not only confirmed the efficacy of RonaCare® Cyclopeptide-5 and RonaCare®
Isoquercetin, but also revealed more details on how these active ingredients work their magic. Of course,
it’s not actually magic, just science – something Merck knows all too well.
RonaCare® Cyclopeptide-5 and RonaCare® Isoquercetin are two miracle substances attractive for anti-ageing
products. New ex-vivo studies now shed even more light on their positive effects on the skin.
RonaCare® Cyclopeptide-5 is, as its name shows, a cyclic peptide that allows for better binding to certain
skin receptors, namely integrins. Previous studies have shown that RonaCare Cyclopeptide-5 regulates the
extra-cellular matrix proteins at the gene level and, in doing so, stimulates a slowing of the ageing process
through mimicking signaling pathways. New ex-vivo tests reveal that RonaCare® Cyclopeptide-5 stimulates
the elastic fiber network in the dermis, the skin layer responsible for the “rebound effect” that lends the skin
firmness and resiliency. With RonaCare® Cyclopeptide-5, this recoil capacity of the skin could be increased
by 35 % within 10 days.
RonaCare® Isoquercetin is a bioflavonoid with anti-oxidant and anti-ageing properties. According to in-vitro
studies, RonaCare® Isoquercetin acts to reduce the glycation of protein and the consequent build-up of AGEs,
which contribute to lower skin elasticity and accelerate the appearance of wrinkles. This anti-glycation
aspect is especially interesting for people with diabetes and associated skin complications. Recent ex-vivo
testing confirmed the anti-glycation potential of RonaCare® Isoquercetin on skin explants: Application of the
substance in combination with the glycation-inducing agent methyl glyoxal offers a protection factor 64 %
higher than that of the placebo formulation. These studies provide impressive proof regarding the active power
of both of these products. For more details on the science behind the solution to younger-looking skin,
contact us via: [email protected]
www.cossma.com
1 4 / Wo r k s h o p s
WORKSHOPS THAT HELP YOU GET THE MOST OUT OF OUR KNOW-HOW
MERCK SHARES
ITS PASSION
www.cossma.com
Merck offers seminars for cosmetics experts on a wide range of topics like active
ingredients and cosmetic pigments, dermocosmetics, functional fillers, insect
repellents, nanomaterials and much more. These workshops allow participants
to further their own expertise as well as learn about practical applications for
various types of products.
DERMOCOSMETICS WORKSHOP
Merck hosted a dermocosmetics workshop on February 18 –19, 2013 in Darmstadt,
Germany. The workshop featured a forum of international speakers and experts
from the fields of pharmacy, chemistry and cosmetics. 70 visitors from 9 countries
participated in this great event. Dermocosmetics addresses problems with
sensitive skin, such as acne, psoriasis, eczema, dermatitis, and much more. The
workshop focused in particular on the potential for non-medical treatment of
these conditions using cosmetics, from a dermatological and pharmaceutical
perspective. Regulatory aspects, scientific news and innovative formulation
ideas were also topics of interest.
Wo rk sh o p s / 1 5
www.cossma.com
MERCK STAFF CONTRIBUTES TO WELL-KNOWN
PUBLICATIONS
REGULATIONS AFFECTING THE COSMETICS
INDUSTRY
NEW
PUBLICATIONS
REGULATORY
AFFAIRS
Merck is invested in advancing the science behind
cosmetics. A number of our own scholars and
researchers have recently been published in leading
scientific journals that further the Zeitgeist of the
cosmetics industry. Take a look – it’s history in the
making!
In 2009, the EU Commission defined “nanomaterial”
for the cosmetics industry under Cosmetics
Regulation (EU) No. 1223/2009. A more general
definition for “nanomaterial” was published again,
in an EU Commission Recommendation in 2011.
BB creams:
“From BB to CC Creams – Innovative Formulation of
Multitasking Care” in the September 2012 edition
of the SOFW Journal
Online publication:
RonaCare® AP – its role in acne prevention
“Sebusuppressive efficacy of the antioxidant
bis-ethylhexyl hydroxydimethoxy benzylmalonate
in the treatment of oily and blemished skin”
available online at: http://www.dovepress.com/
sebusuppressive-efficacy-of-the-antioxidant-bisethylhexyl-hydroxydime-peer-reviewed-article-CCID
Sun care:
“Sunglasses for the Skin” in Arte y Ciencia Cosmética (August 2012)
cos
magazine
PUBLISHED BY
Merck KGaA
In 2013, the Commission is checking how to revise
the definition for the cosmetics industry based on
the EU Recommendation document. This may affect
a great number of cosmetic raw materials and
cosmetic formulations. Even a threshold based on a
particle number/size distribution is being discussed,
which could turn a cosmetic ingredient into a
nanomaterial although it was not produced as such.
As a consequence, these substances must be then
labeled as “nano” on the ingredients list.
Performance Materials
Pigments & Cosmetics
Frankfurter Strasse 250
64293 Darmstadt
Germany
Phone: +49 6151 72-6899
Fax: +49 6151 72-916899
[email protected]
EDITING & LAYOUT
As a result of a definition change, the number of
insoluble powders that will be classified as “nanomaterials” would increase and a new approach to
marketing these products might become necessary.
RTS Rieger Team,
www.rts-riegerteam.de
DISCLAIMER
Merck provides information
At the moment, there is no evidence that nanomaterials in cosmetic products are dangerous. Still,
cosmetics companies are cautious about them, and
might not be happy that some of their products will
soon be classified this way.
on application technologies and
relevant regulations based upon
our current knowledge and
opinion at the time of printing.
Merck makes no representation
or warranty of any kind, express
Merck can help keep you informed and sort out the
confusion about regulations, labeling and other
factors that could affect products.
or implied, including merchantability or fitness for a particular
use, with respect to such
information or its application.
Purchasers must independently
determine the suitability of our
ingredients for the purchaser’s
intended product, use or process.
Purchasers are responsible
for observing all laws and
regulations relevant to such
products, uses or processes.
The foregoing information and
suggestions are also provided
without warranty of noninfringement as to the
intellectual property rights
of third parties, and shall not
be construed as any induce-
www.merck4cosmetics.com
ment to infringe the rights of
third parties.
COS1305_19_Mintel_GB_COS1105_10_Anti_Aging_GB 22.04.13 08:50 Seite 19
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International
launches
This month Vivienne Rudd, head of Beauty and Personal
Care Insight at Mintel, presents a selection of products
with innovative active ingredients.
F
ace Q Milk Moisturizing Foot Mask is made with a Korean patented 3D mask sheet with moisture-releasing capacities. It contains walnut oil, squalane and ceramide III, milk extract, snail
extract, shea butter, beeswax, cucumber, aloe and purslane.
Inspired from known cosmetic surgery techniques, the Oriflame
Bio Clinic range includes Active Defense Day Shield SPF 45, a doubleaction fluid cream designed to target multiple forms of hyperpigmentation. The product is formulated with lightening tone-down technology featuring three anti-hyperpigmentation actives: patented dioic
acid, rumex occidentalis and ginkgo flavonoids.
As part of the Medik8 range known as the ”Green Cosmeceutical”
brand Prevent CE-Thione Rechargeable Vitamin C Antioxidant Formula is a water-based vitamin C serum with a rechargeable vitamin C
concept to ensure that every drop of the serum is fresh. It also contains vitamin E and L-glutathione.
The Ampoules from Dr. Grandel’s Nutri Sensation have an active ingredient concentrate to regenerate the skin with essential nutrients.
The company is claimed to have set a new, eco-certified standard in
the art of environmentally-friendly manufacturing.
Additional information can be found on the Internet – see Internet box
photos: Mintel
Vivienne Rudd
Head of Beauty and Personal
Care Insight, Mintel,
London, UK
www.mintel.com
Face Q’s foot
mask with
patented 3D
moisture-releasing mask
sheet
Medik8’s water-based
vitamin C serum to protect
against free-radicals
Oriflame’s double-action fluid
cream to target
multiple forms
of hyperpigmentation
Dr. Grandel’s ampoules with
essential nutrients to
regenerate the skin
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
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MARKETING INGREDIENTS
The statement by the SCCS
The key points summarised
The fact that bath products should be formulated in concentrations such that even sensitised consumers find then acceptable is to be
the subject of an industry-independent study
What steps are planned according to
the SCCS statement on fragrance allergies?
Dr. Rainer Wohlfart,
head of R&D at Kneipp,
Würzburg, Germany: In
perfumery there has to be
a limited concentration of
indispensable fragrances which dramatically alter almost all the perfume
oils used in cosmetics. It is also
planned to totally forbid some fragrances and to increase the list of
declarable allergens from 26 to 127.
And what is the current situation in this
regard?
Wohlfart: The draft statement was,
despite numerous scientifically based
and well-founded objections, published in the summer of 2012 almost
unchanged, and set before the EU
Commission. Now it is a matter for the
politicians.
Are these steps justifiable in your view?
Erich Schmidt, perfumer, Nördlingen, Germany: I tend to think not.
The data used are mainly
of a qualitative nature,
which means that they don’t take into
account the concentration level that is
20
COSSMA 5 I 2013
actually used. They are based less on a
hazard risk and more on an evaluation
of possible problems. There is hardly
any consideration of the exposure
level.
Wohlfart: At Kneipp we have followed very strict safety regulations developed over decades. Reactions due
to product intolerance are very rare. If
we ever have such information we work
hard to pinpoint the cause and are always prepared to pay for dermatological consultations. In recent years we
have not had a single instance of this
type where there has been scientifically proven causal relationship with our
product.
Basically one does of course welcome the situation where, in the interest of preventive consumer protection,
allergenic risks that could be traced
back to fragrances are constantly monitored and evaluated.
In terms of this particular aspect the
SCCS statement is a collection of data
such as has never previously existed. It
is now a question of correctly evaluating this data and of establishing legal
requirements based on such an evaluation. That is the job of the European
Commission and the parliament.
photo: Yuri Arcurs, Shutterstock.com
Dr. Rainer Wohlfart from the
Kneipp company and the
perfumer Erich Schmidt
explain, in an interview with
Angelika Meiss, how they see
the impact of the SCCS stance
and planned course of action
on the subject of fragrance
allergies.
At what rate of occurrence are allergies
a relevant risk to the general population?
Schmidt: Because there is never a
“no risk” situation, it is necessary to define the frequency of cases of allergies
which may be rather regrettable or
equally unforeseeable as a rare risk of
some individuals. Nature is full of potentially sensitising substances, and
this is not a problem restricted to cosmetics. In the area of foodstuffs nobody has yet suggested a ban on
peanuts. Food allergies have potentially a much higher risk and perhaps with
a fatal outcome.
According to the statistics of the
IVDK 0.8 to 1.9 % of the population are
sensitive to one or more fragrances. In
almost all cases it is unknown how this
sensitisation was acquired. In most
cases no sensitisation threshold was
measured to acquire information
about the potential of the substance. It
is also mostly unclear whether a medicine had been taken at the same time
or whether it was an instance of polysensitisation. If a person has a reaction
it is not necessarily specifically attributable to the perfume oil in a cosmetic
preparation. The sensitisation could
have been triggered in the person at a
different location but it is via the fragrance that the allergy gets activated.
To know more about the mechanism of sensitisation a lot more basic
research needs to be carried out. There
is a need for research, but hasty legal
measures would be counterproductive.
COS1305_20_Kneipp_GB_COS1105_10_Anti_Aging_GB 22.04.13 08:52 Seite 21
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INGREDIENTS
What are the outcomes to be feared?
Wohlfart: If, as anticipated in the
statement, Europe-wide an arbitrary
100 cases arose, which were observed
over a period of 12 years and will be
used as the definition of “allergens of
special concern” then this type of
safety requirement will be excessively
exaggerated. The consequences of
this requirement would mean an extremely seriously reduced range of
fragrances putting a whole branch of
industry at risk.
Schmidt: The market would tend towards new, less well-known fragrance
substances. Look at limonene as an example. Over 100,000 tonnes of this fragrance material is used worldwide annually. Data from the IVDK (the information group of the dermatological
and clinical industry) confidently
states that its allergenic potential is as
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good as zero. Despite this the SCCS
insists on including it in the list of
26 allergens which will now have to be
declared when used at a concentration
level above a fixed figure.
photo: Martapaniti, Shutterstock.com
In the Spiegel Online of April 2nd 2013
Prof. Schnuch of the IVDK describes
“the risk to the population from allergens in cosmetics as relatively low”. He
continues: “Of 100 percent of the population who use cosmetics of all kinds
about 0.1 percent annually acquire an
allergy due to the ingredients”.
Wohlfart: Fragrances are present in
all aspects of our lives, and in particular in nature. Even if we wanted to we
cannot banish them from the world.
The majority of consumers have no
problem with fragrances. On the contrary, for most people fragrances enrich
their lives and represent a good quality of life. But this is not only true for
EDTs. A bath additive with a limited
small amount of citral, linalool, geraniol and limonene – quite unthinkable!
These fragrance substances are the basic aromatic elements for nearly all important essential oils and even natural
cosmetics will have to include them.
The desire for a range of senses is a
fundamental human need, and includes a wide range of fragrances
which cannot be sacrificed, just because of a reducing number of consumers show an over-sensitive reaction and for whom products free from
perfume oils are available.
MARKETING
What benefit does all this offer to the
consumer?
Schmidt: The labelling of the 26 so-
called allergens is already overburdening the consumers and dermatologists.
Now fragrances are to be introduced,
which are known even to many specialists only under their trade names but
which now, according to goods labelling regulations, must be described
only by their complex IUPAC names.
That can surely not contribute to consumer protection
Wohlfart: The suggested marking of
numerous additional substances
brings no advantages to consumers or
dermatologists. Already today practical experience with the 26 allergens
contained in the fragrance mix I and II
shows that if there is an allergic reaction due to cost restrictions it is impossible to find out what it is caused by;
i.e. the consumer still has no idea to
which allergen he is reacting. He will
be left with what is for him a totally
useless remark in his allergy documentation “Allergic to fragrance blends”.
Furthermore it is known that a
patch test can give a large number of
false positive results. For that reason a
ROAT (Repeated Open Application
Test) should be used. Only in this way
can we depend on reliable results, but
it is costly and so rarely used.
It appears more sensible to leave
the more unusual allergens out of the
declaration requirement and instead
to include those in the requirement
that definitely have a more common
incidence as shown in the ROAT test.
According to a correct assessment suitable legislative measures must be taken
based on the mass of data collected
Whole families of fragrances would
disappear and the fragrances would all
be “much of a muchness”. And at the
end of the day the fine perfumery sector would also be hit.
Is research work being carried out by
industry and the associations?
Wohlfart: Yes, in fact quite a lot.
The IFRA started an extensive research
programme a few months ago and it
will mean a lot of expense. It takes time
but is the only way that theoretical
claims can be looked at calmly and invalidated, or in certain cases, maybe,
reinforced. It is important here to assess things exactly before setting
out on a hastily arranged series of
activities.
We too, as market leaders in the
bath products sector, see that we have
a certain duty. It is our aim firstly to
confirm that bath products in the right
concentrations are harmless, even for
a sensitised consumer. For this we
have initiated an industry-independent research project that is due to begin soon. It is not made any easier that
sensitisation with the substances that
interest us is so rare that it will really
difficult to find test volunteers.
Which manufacturers will be most affected?
Wohlfart: It is important to under-
How long will it be before this all comes
to a final position?
Wohlfart: That depends whether the
stand that there is no alternative to citral, geraniol, limonene and linalool! If
their use is restricted then the creative
possibilities in the field of natural cosmetics will be reduced as will be the
bath products sector from which we
generate half of our business. Limiting
these substances would be a catastrophe and in no way justifiable – it will
simply mean that bath products are diluted and used to a much lower degree.
Limitation would not only mean the reworking of hundreds of formulations.
politicians can be convinced that rush
judgements make no sense. Luckily it
is now an obligation to collect data and
supply it to Cosmetovigilance. Internally these data are already available
to every responsible manufacturer.
They can make a significant contribution to the evaluation of the problem in
a manner free from emotions.
Interview partners:
Dr. Rainer Wohlfart: [email protected],
www.kneipp.de
Erich Schmidt: [email protected]
Further information can be found on the Internet
COSSMA 5 I 2013
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Star
of the Month
Convenience and sustainability
Detergent with
two-chamber
technology
A new feature of the Duo-Caps used for Henkel‘s predosed Persil detergent is the two-chamber technology.
It combines a formulation for brightness with a powerful
stain remover all in a water-soluble gel capsule that
dissolves even at low temperatures.
T
We take your
success personally.
Convenience in use
Our clients expect performance. And they get more than
that. Because our dermatologists are not only experts in the
labora-tory, but also in the day-to-day routine of dermatological
practice. Experience that leads to better test results.
he aim of the two-chamber system is to combine in an optimum
way the advantages of two complementary formulations in just
one wash.
The gels in both chambers are double concentrated and separated
from each other by a water-soluble foil.
Thus the ingredients, rather like the enzymes, are better protected
and remain particularly stable until they are required. Once they come
into direct contact with water they are activated to release their action.
photo: Henkel
The DERMATEST® promise:
The pre-dosed Duo-Caps are, like their predecessors the MegaCaps, simply placed in the empty washing machine drum for one wash
cycle. The machine is then filled with laundry and the appropriate programme selected – that’s it! Thanks to the water-soluble foil the two
capsules dissolve fully during the wash cycle and so come into direct
contact with the laundry for excellent washing results.
The double capsules are of a sustainable concept as they ensure
that there is no overdosing in the washing machine. Thanks to their
highly concentrated formulation they carry out washing and stain removal even at low temperatures. Furthermore the resealable pouch for
the Duo-Caps, in contrast to a classic gel bottle for the same number
of washes, is manufactured saving more than 50 percent of the packaging material.
Persil Duo-Caps
in the Universal and
Color variants, in a
limited refillable box
as well as in the resealable pouch, have
been in the shops
since April 2013. AM
Dermatest® takes your success personally: the right test for
every assignment. Tailor-made for the purpose and with precisely the required level of performance to achieve best results
Dermatological-clinical application tests. Co-operation with other medical
specialities (ophthalmologist, gynecologist, paediatrician, dentist etc.) | Simple
epicutaneous trials conducted in accordance with international guidelines |
TrichoScan hair analysis | Determining skin properties by means of confocal
laser scanning (VivaScope 1500 system) | Measuring the elasticity of the skin
(cutometry) | Determining the hydration and fat content of the skin (corneometry,
sebumetry) | Sun protection determination according to DIN and COLIPA |
Photo patch tests | Long-term (repetitive) epicutaneous tests | Safety assessment |
Measuring TEWL | Ultrasound examination of the skin (DermaScan C) |
Determining skin roughness using PRIMOS (optical 3-D assessment device) |
UVA protection in accordance with COLIPA standard | Human full-thickness
skin model for cosmetic testing of efficacy and tolerance
w w w. d e r m a t e s t . d e
Until the foil dissolves
the two-chamber technology protects the
ingredients of the
two complementary
formulations
®
dermatest
R E S E A R C H I N S T I T U T E F O R R E L I A B L E R E S U LT S
Ta k i n g y o u r s u c c e s s p e r s o n a l l y
COS1305_24_Huber_GB_COS1105_10_Anti_Aging_GB 08.05.13 07:36 Seite 24
PRODUCTION
LEGISLATION
The new regulations
put under the
microscope
The new EU Cosmetics Regulation
photo: Style-photography.de,
Shutterstock.com
What is really changing?
What are the most significant changes
in the new EU Cosmetics Directive
1223/2009?
Dr. Gerd Mildau, responsible for cosmetics
within the chemical and
veterinary investigation office (CVUA) in Karlsruhe,
Germany: Firstly not everything in
the EU Cosmetics Regulation has
changed. For instance the definition of
cosmetics, the intended use and the
reasonably foreseeable use of the
product, and the requirement for the
product to be safe, remain unchanged.
An important point, however, is that
the safety assessment requirements
have been specified.
Really new is an EU-wide product
related registration procedure, the
so-called Notification, plus a regulation
on common criteria for claims, and a
traceability procedure for products on
the market.
Birgit Huber, deputy
head of the IKW (German
Cosmetic, Toiletry, Perfumery and Detergent
Association) in Frankfurt,
Germany: In addition there is an
introduction of a notification on undesirable effects in cosmetics. Serious
undesirable effects must in future be
notified to the competent authorities.
This refers to such cases which after intended and reasonably foreseeable
use a consumer needs, for example, to
spend some time in hospital. Such
cases are of course extremely rare.
The Cosmetics Regulation also lays
down regulations for nanomaterials.
This makes cosmetics the first consumer products for which this category
of ingredients is explicitly regulated.
24
COSSMA 5 I 2013
Oxidative eyelash colorants
can continue to be used by
referring to the forthcoming
new regulations
What new points will the manufacturer
of cosmetics have to note when adopting the major requirements?
Huber: There are already a number
The substance lists in the annexes have
not yet been revised. Is there a concrete
plan set up to do this?
Mildau: Unfortunately the first draft
of different requirements which occupy
the manufacturers at the same time.
Firstly the safety assessments have to
be adopted progressively, but also the
products have to be declared to the
CPNP Notification Database at the
European Commission, which is complex.
Mildau: And with regard to the
reporting obligation of undesirable
effects: as far as I know German manufacturers have already taken this
problem on board in their own organisations to comply with their due diligence. In addition to this, however,
there is a new requirement for serious
cases. Here the European legislators
are attempting to create a cosmetovigilance system. With such a system it
should be recognised at an early stage
which substances may have a potentially negative effect on human health.
However, such a system can only
work if in serious cases it is clearly
identified that a cosmetic product was
really the trigger to the problem.
Huber: To know all of the relevant
facts can be very time-consuming. And
if there is no clear result it must not
be declared in order to avoid a data
cemetery.
1223/09 issued in January 2010 contained a few mistakes in the substance
related annexes, in particular in some
language versions. At the time it was
not, however, planned by the European
legislators to issue debugged annexes.
The first step was to issue the legal
text. These annexes represent the status at the end of 2007, the time when
the text was put forward to the European Parliament.
Part of the substance lists has since
then been updated or an amending
regulation should be published quite
soon. All of the amendments to the
Cosmetics Regulation after 2009 are
included. However the errors in the
appendices before 2009 must be corrected.
The working group, consisting of experts from member states, from the
European cosmetics industry and the
Commission, does not have much time
left. On July 11th 2013 the full EU Cosmetics Regulation comes into force,
including the annexes. Thus by this
date everything should be corrected.
Until that date the current EU Cosmetics Directive remains in force, with its
annexes. However this Regulation
must be referred to from July 11th
photo: Katalinks, Shutterstock.com
Dr. Gerd Mildau of the CVUA and Birgit
Huber of the IKW explain, in an interview
with COSSMA editor Angelika Meiss, what
is really new in the Cosmetics Directive,
which are the biggest challenges for the
manufacturer, and what can be expected
with the updating of the substance list and
the definition of nanomaterials.
COS1305_24_Huber_GB_COS1105_10_Anti_Aging_GB 07.05.13 14:47 Seite 25
should the outstanding corrections
not be published in time.
Huber: Substance related deviations are sometimes related to
changes in the definitions. For this
purpose a preamble to annexes II to
VI has been created. With regard to
hair care products it is, for example,
that eyelashes, as per the new definition, do not fall within the scope of
hair care.
Because hydrogen peroxide is, however, not specifically approved for use
in eyelash products, as from July 11th
2013 the whole oxidative eyelash colorants product group would no longer
be permitted.
Based on the collaboration of various interested parties the SCCS has
relatively short term issued a positive
evaluation of the main ingredients
used in eyelash colorant products. The
Commission has even presented a leg-
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islative amendment. Even if this text
has not been published by July 11th
2013 producers will have the possibility to continue their sales by pointing
to the forthcoming regulation.
Which substances are subject to new
restrictions?
Huber: In the legislation it is
planned that the Annex IV which refers
currently to colorants (for the skin or
for products themselves) will also be
expanded to hair colorants. For this
purpose the precursors of oxidative
hair colorants are defined in the new
legislation as hair colorants. Firstly the
extensive risk assessment for hair colorant substances must be completed,
and for which there is an ambitious
programme from the EU Commission
and the industry. The industry has
committed itself to submit the data
confirming the safety of the hair colorants used to the EU‘s Commission
scientific committee.
Meanwhile the SCCS has already
evaluated the majority of the hair colorants used. As soon as all of the substances have been evaluated the positive list will be expanded and then
only the substances appearing on the
list will be permitted for use in hair
colorants products.
Mildau: The regulations covering
nanomaterials are also new, as the implementation provisions of CMR substances. A “CMR substance” is classified in the regulations on hazardous
materials as carcinogenic, mutagenic
or toxic for reproduction. According to
the Regulation even substances classified as CMR 1A or 1B may be used in
cosmetics preparations in exceptional
cases, i.e. strict requirements are to
be met.
There should be in general according to the interpretation of the EU
Commission a dynamic reference to
the chemicals legislation of forbidden
CMR substances. In Annexes III to VI
of the Cosmetics Regulation only substances with a known CMR history will
be included. These will be only substances evaluated by the SCCS and approved via the comitology procedure
(this is the Standing Committee procedure in line with article 32) with restrictions such as percentage limits, or
warnings, and with a requirement for a
regular evaluation.
CMR substances not approved by
the SCCS will no longer appear in the
negative list of Annex II. Thus companies, and in particular the safety assessors, must have the chemicals legis lation permanently in mind.
What new requirements are there in
relation to nanomaterials?
Huber: Although a definition of
nanomaterials is included in the cosmetics legislation this definition does
leave a few unanswered questions.
There is also a horizontal definition
from the Commission relating to all
products concerned. Because there are
so far no official explanations with regard to horizontal recommendations
the European cosmetics industry has
created its own guidelines for interpretation.
photo: Guzel Studio, Shutterstock.com
LEGISLATION PRODUCTION
After having carried out an extensive risk evaluation
for hair colorants only substances will be permitted
which are found in the expanded positive list
Finally all substances classified as
nanomaterials must be notified separately since January 11th 2013 unless
they are in the annexes of the regulation subject to authorisation or they
will have been specifically authorized.
Such authorisations do not yet exist
but for the most commonly-used substances, such as titanium dioxide and
zinc oxide, approval is expected by
July 11th 2013.
Until an official definition is published we recommend companies to
use the guidelines of the European
cosmetics industry as a guide. Within
the notification full toxicological data
on the nanomaterial must be submitted in order to confirm the safety of the
substance. There is a special procedure for this within the CPNP process.
Mildau: Another new point is the
marking of nanomaterials from July
11th, 2013, within INCI. Here the name
of the affected substance will be expanded with the suffix “nano” in parentheses. Within the product information
file a manufacturer must document
which nanoparticles are used. Analysis
of nanoparticles in the final product is
another big challenge. Whether it can
be achieved will be known when nanomaterials are precisely and officially
defined.
[email protected], www.cvuaka.bwl.de
[email protected], www.ikw.org
Further information can be found on the Internet,
COS1305_26_News_GB_COS1305_26_News_GB 22.04.13 08:55 Seite 32
www.cossma.com
PRODUCTION NEW INGREDIENTS
Ingredients
H2S – to slow the ageing process
photo: Muratart, Shutterstock.com
According to the American Society for Microbiology hydrogen
sulphide (H2S) may play a wideranging role in staving off ageing. This is the result of a review
article from a team of Chinese
scientists which explores the
compound’s different potential
anti-ageing pathways. H2S
seems to slow the ageing
process by inhibiting free-radical reactions, by activating
SIRT1, an enzyme believed to
be a regulator of lifespan, and
probably through its interactions with a gene, klotho, which
is thought to extend lifespan via
H2S may become the next potent
a number of different pathways,
agent for preventing the symptoms
some of which promote proof ageing in nutricosmetics
duction of endogenous antioxidants, according to the report. It is like an ACE inhibitor, just like drugs
that mitigate high blood pressure. Plasma H2S declines with age. “Data
available so far strongly suggest that H2S may become the next potent
agent for preventing and ameliorating the symptoms of aging and ageassociated diseases,” concludes one of the authors.
How fish collagen peptides
work from within
Rousselot I A dermatological study performed by the
French laboratory Cosderma reconfirms the positive effects of
Peptan fish collagen peptides on
skin beauty. The
new study was designed to understand the impact of
a daily intake of
Peptan F on skin
structure. The double-blind randomized study versus
placebo was performed on 106
healthy female subjects (aged 40 to
65) over an 84 day
period. Confocal
scanning technology showed a 31%
reduction in collagen fragmentation
after 12 weeks and
New evidence for skin beauty from
collagen density
within with fish collagen peptides
significantly increased by 9% in
the dermis. The study also highlights a considerable potential
for nutricosmetic applications. It is easily integrated into supplements, food or beverages.
photo: Rousselot
NEWS
Be bright !
Full coverage hot stamping
Metal-like effect
Amazing shelf appeal
STÖLZLE
YOUR PRESTIGE GLASS PARTNER
www.stoelzle.com
Visit us at Luxepack New York | 15th/16th May | booth: D5
www.mega-airless.com
COS1305_Sederma_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 19.04.13 09:40 Seite 1
www.cossma.com
NYSCC Suppliers’ Day
Sustainabletechnology
Edison, NJ, May 14-15 stand 1032
for natural
Wrinkle filler
efficacy
LEONTOCELL
TM
Leontopodium alpinum stem cells
Maintains the matrix macromolecule
structures.
Dark circles
ECHINACELL
TM
Echinacea angustifolia stem cells
Protects the capillary wall and reinforces
the microvascular environment.
Anti-pollution
IRB STEMS
The first and only titrated
plant stem cells for the
cosmetic market. Highly
effective active ingredients,
rich in defensive substances
with high biological activity
and free of any contaminant,
using a totally eco-sustainable
biotech process that fully
respects the environment.
MARRUCELL
TM
Marrubium vulgare stem cells
Third generation protection against
the urban oxidizing damage.
SEBULESS
TM
Syringa vulgaris L. powder actives
Reduces microbial proliferation and
blemishes of young skin.
EUROPE - Sederma SAS Tel +33 1 34 84 10 10 email [email protected] www.sederma.fr
IRB SpA Istituto di Ricerche Biotecnologiche www.irbtech.com
NORTH AMERICA - Sederma Inc. Tel +732 692 1652 email [email protected] www.sederma.fr
LATIN AMERICA email [email protected] www.croda.com/la/pc
ASIA PACIFIC email [email protected] www.croda.com/asia
HTN POWDER ACTIVES
The first and unique extracts
from plant cell culture
guaranteed 100% contaminant
free with the highest and
unsurpassed titre available
totally eco-friendly produced.
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*Samples will be sent at Sederma’s discretion
Hyperseborrhea
COS1305_28_Cosmoprof_GB_COS1305_28_Cosmoprof_GB 22.04.13 08:55 Seite 28
www.cossma.com
PRODUCTION
EVENTS
Cosmopack 2013
New ideas at a glance
B
omo Trendline were showing
photos: Geka
their cuticle softener and remover pen called Soft Cuticle
5144. It contains a ginko extract to prevent inflammation, vitamins A and E,
and a caramel fragrance.
The mild, acetone-free Perfect Corrector 5269 for fine-tuning of applied
nail polish has a raspberry fragrance
and contains vitamin E. The nail care
pen for helping the regeneration of
damaged nails, the Elastic Care 5143,
has a fragrance reminiscent of Black
Forest cherry gateau. The Ceramide
Fruit Peeling 5271 twist pen with mas-
A special brush design
dispenses more mascara
28
COSSMA 5 I 2013
Alternative to lipstick that lasts 24 hours,
and can be combined with a fixer
offering a skin care action
Taiki’s Duo Sponge, a special BB
cream applicator, combines the technical aspects and simplicity of synthetic
latex with the soft and yet resistant
touch of Cellbian or Cellfine. The two
parts of the sponge are melted into a
thermo-fusible film that limits product
penetration inside the sponge resulting in less spillage and a better product
restitution. BB cream remains at the
top of the sponge and only a small
quantity is enough for the whole face.
The Unity bottle closure, one of
three products from Dieter Bakic that
were selected for the iF design award,
seals with pressure and with screwing.
The design of the cap allows a new
photo: Taiki
Luxurious gleaming polyfoil
tubes in rich gold and silver finishes
sage applicator, for gently massaging
the cuticle with fruit acid and a ceramide complex has an aroma of blueberries. The Spacy Art Nail Art Pen,
with which the user can sketch her own
patterns or images is now available in
15 paraben-free colours. The 4 neon
colours for painting on false nails are
new. Top Coat BT48972 is a sealant for
Spacy, French and Nail Art colours,
whilst the Glitter Top Coat BT3623 with
a UV filter stops the nail colours from
fading. The Lip Painter, a paraben-free
lip colour that lasts up to 24 hours contains moisturising shea butter and has
an apricot fragrance. Lip Painter with
Lip Balm combines the long-lasting
lip colours with an ecotest conforming
fixer containing aloe vera.
HCP, with years of experience working with the trend agency Mudpie, were
showing three colour cosmetics lines
with the 2014 spring and summer
trends: the youth-inspired Époque
range, with floral designs and clean
marine blue and white tones harks
back to the early 20th century. Verve
reflects the 2014 Latin American influence, with ”flora and fauna” designs
from the rain forest, in tropical colours.
Imagine symbolises a fresh breeze and
free-rein creativity with playful designs
from the days of our childhood.
Get the professional look is a styling
kit developed by Geka working with
Michele Burke. It includes special applicators. The unusual 1-piece eyelash
brush from DivineLashes gives full and,
at the same time, beautifully shaped
lashes. In the cleverly designed
application disc extra amounts
of the paraben-free and TEA-free
AME07501B lash mascara formulated
by Ancorotti Cosmetics, which dispenses well, are deposited lash by lash. It
is particularly suitable for use on the
upper lashes.
photo: Bomo Trendline
photo: Neopac
193,842 visitors – 14% more than in 2012 – came to this year’s
Cosmoprof Worldwide event in Bologna in March to learn all about
the new products and ideas presented by 2,390 exhibitors including
1,500 from outside Italy. We bring you here some of the highlights
presented at Cosmopack, the exhibition area dedicated to packaging, packaging machinery and contract production.
The economic yet effective sponge
designed specially for BB creams
쑺
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www.cossma.com
COS1305_28_Cosmoprof_GB_COS1305_28_Cosmoprof_GB 22.04.13 08:55 Seite 30
www.cossma.com
EVENTS
photo: HCP
Trends for
2014 packed
in a biscuit
bag
consumer experience when opening
and closing the bottle. If the closure is
twisted a disc either rises or sinks to
provide access to the opening in the
cap, or reseals it. This means that the
photo: CMC
Pads for deep
cleansing of
the pores
usual, and classic, press down and
screw movement to open a closure has
at last been finally improved. Features
of the design are lines which intersect
each other, the asymmetry, and the
wide range of possible colours.
Rebhan presented four new bottle
shapes that will be available very
shortly. Three new shapes made from
glass polymer, which combines the advantages of glass and plastic, in capacities of 30, 50 and 100 ml plus a new design made from HDPE in a 250 ml size.
Neopac’s Fascinating Gloss Collection is a luxurious range of gleaming
polyfoil tubes in high class gold and
silver finishes, or in other metallic finishes for a distinguished look and even
more gleaming tubes. The tubes, in
sizes from 1 ml to 300 ml, can be supplied with all-around printing.
Albea showed their new, integrated
airless tube and pump packs representing a high-protection and cost-efficient format and including the industry reference SP343 plus the Nea pump
offering the industry’s widest range of
tube customization.
CMC Consumer Medical Care were
showing their Clarifying Toner Pads
photo: Dieter Bakic
PRODUCTION
Opening and closing in a
totally different way
with salicylic acid for deep cleansing of
the pores and the moisturising AntiAM
Wrinkle-Eye-Patches.
The next Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna takes place
in Italy from April 11th to 14th 2014
Web-Tips
Albea:
Bomo Trendline:
Dieter Bakic:
CMC:
Geka:
HCP:
Neopac:
Rebhan:
Taiki:
www.albea-group.com
www.bomo-trendline.de
www.bakic.com
www.cmcpackaging.com
www.geka-world.com
www.hcpackaging.com
www.neopac.com
www.rebhan-group.com
www.taiki-europe.com
Expect amazing new things
from high-water formulations.
Despite everything you’ve been led to believe, high
performance and a smooth sensory feel are possible
in a high-water phase formulation. The secret is
using Air Products’ hydrophilic active complexes and
Deposilk® Q1 polymer. For performance data and guide
formulations, visit our website or call 800-345-3148
(U.S. only) or 610-481-6799. And see how an amazing
new generation of lower-cost skin-care products is
about to take flight.
tell me more
airproducts.com/takeflight
©2013 Air Products and Chemicals, Inc.
COS1305_Lipotec_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 19.04.13 09:42 Seite 1
www.cossma.com
juvefoxo
™
Guardian of genomic integrity
REVERTING CELLULAR SENESCENCE
HDFa 55 years
HDFa 55 years +
0,01 mg/ml
Juvefoxo™
Lipotec GmbH
Nassaustraße 3
65719 Hofheim-Wallau, Germany
Tel: +49 (0) 6122538990
Fax:+49 (0) 61229277678
E-mail:[email protected]
HDFa 37 years
Peptide directed at minimising the accumulation of DNA damage,
contributing to keeping cells unimpaired for longer. Juvefoxo™ acts
by mimicking the activity of FOXO3a, a key protein responsible for
maintaining genomic integrity, offering an innovative mechanism of action
with proven efficacy in retarding senescense. Fibroblasts of a donor aged
55 recovered the characteristics of cells over 10 years younger after a
treatment with Juvefoxo™, offering an advanced rejuvenating effect to
anti-aging formulations.
COS1305_32_Sappi_GB_COS1305_32_Sappi_GB 22.04.13 08:56 Seite 32
www.cossma.com
PRODUCTION
PACKAGING
Paperboard’s numerous and versatile advantages ...
... for strong branding
The simple but refined packaging for the Strellson men’s
fragrance ‘Loaded’ has fullsurface structured embossing
and carries an unusual rubber
band closure. The intense white
Algro Design cardboard carton
skilfully accentuates the
contrasts and also has other
advantages.
photo: Sappi
Particularly unusual: the
closure flap, located on
the outside of the carton,
is fixed with the help of
a red elastic band
L
ess is more, was the central concept behind the development of
the packaging for the Loaded
men’s fragrance from the Swiss men’s
fashion house Strellson. The fragrance
is produced under licence by Mäurer &
Wirtz Prestige (M&W) for the fashion
company.
About Mäurer & Wirtz
Mäurer & Wirtz was established in 1845 as a soap manufacturer and today is a fifth generation family run company and one of the five biggest perfume producers in Germany. Since 1990 the company has been a self-sufficient
member of the Dalli Group. Altogether there are today
350 employees involved in the development and production of about 740 cosmetics and personal care products
in the market sectors Prestige, 4711, and Beauty. The
most well-known brands include Baldessarini, Strellson,
Tabac, Betty Barclay, Otto Kern and S. Oliver.
www.m-w.de
32
COSSMA 5 I 2013
The Peter Schmidt Group produced
the design and Carl Edelmann produced and decorated the carton. The
design, development of the package,
and all materials application and
transport tests took in total almost a
year.
The curved flacon, rather like a hip
flask, with a brushed metal surface is
distinctively shaped. The very clean
lines are also carried through to the retail carton. The graphics, based simply
on the overall design elements, is in effect a white carton with embossing, the
brandís plectrum logo in black on a red
background and a red rubber band as
an external closure for the carton.
The emergence
of a pack design
The point of departure for the design was the Strellson Sportswear logo, a red plectrum with black text, and
a Swiss cross in black. To bring out the
design most strongly it was clear from
the outset that it would need to be presented on a pure white background.
The economically used decoration,
consisting of embossing and a gloss
lacquer, was placed on an intense
white Algro Design cartonboard from
Sappi Fine Paper Europe. ”A more intense white is not available anywhere
on the market today”, explains Udo
Kruizenga, Print Packaging Manager at
Mäurer & Wirtz. A second decisive factor was that the paperboard carton had
to be strong enough to support and
protect the heavy 450 g/m2 flacon. The
carton, made from fresh fibres, adds
perceived value to the pack. It can be
precisely cut and folded, and is of a
constant quality. The tactile feel and
gleaming white give the pack a very
sharp printed image with a high level of
contrast and an impression of greater
space.
A rippled finish for better
visual and tactile effects
The full surface embossing with fine
”washboard” horizontal ripples characterises the design of the pack. This visual and tactile ripple structure is said
to feel almost like leather and to give
the feeling that the material is something more than cardboard when handled – namely something plastic. The
angled lining of the embossed finish
reflects the pattern of brushing on the
flacon, which also runs across the strip.
COS1305_32_Sappi_GB_COS1305_32_Sappi_GB 22.04.13 08:56 Seite 33
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PACKAGING
Despite the cellophane wrapper the
embossing can still be felt.
Simplified print technique
To lift the pack from the opulence
of the competition the decision was
to give the design a masculine simplicity with contributions from the shape
and the reduced amount of printing
used.
The manufacturer’s name, product
name, and the main product data are
given using just the three colours red,
white and black – any additional information was not to be shown on the
pack – no photos, no clash of colours.
Then the whole text was printed in
black on Algro Duo cartonboard. The
full surface linear embossing was applied by the embossing machine. Only
the area for the plectrum-shaped logo
was left out for later blind embossing.
Finally the whole package was given a
matt finish and just the product name
and logo were given a high gloss lacquer. The high gloss lacquer and the
embossing give the logo a 3D effect.
The red Strellson logo was applied to
the flacon as a plastic label.
PRODUCTION
About Algro Design
The Algro Design family of products from Sappi includes coated cartonboard with a consistently
intense white surface, a high level of light tolerance and a soft feel, supplied in three
product variants: Algro Design with a single-side double coated front face and uncoated rear,
Algro Design Card with single-sided double coated front face and single coated rear and
Algro Design Duo with front and back faces symmetrically double coated on both sides.
[email protected], www.sappi.com
Unusual type of closure
fixing
The closure on the carton is unusual and not normally seen on a cardboard carton. There is no internal flap,
but it is held firm on the outside with a
red rubber band. The range of initial
tests produced an optimum solution of
holding the carton top in the closed
position and rather like leather-clad diaries and notebooks the pack it is held
closed by an elastic band. The band,
fixed to the back of the carton, is pulled
forward over the covering flap to seal
the pack. An embossed channel prevents the elastic band from sliding off
the flap. Fitting of the rubber band
was slightly more complex. Threading
through the bands, which were cut to
length in advance and fitted with a retainer, was not possible by machine,
and had to be done by hand. The bands
had to be threaded through the two
punched holes in the rear of the pack
and fixed into place. Like barbed hooks
the retainers spread out in the interior
of the carton to ensure that the band is
positioned tightly around the flap. This
unusual solution earned the carton the
nomination as a finalist in the 2012
ProCarton/ECMA Awards in the Beauty
& Cosmetics category.
Lars Scheidweiler
Product Group Manager
Rigid Packaging
Sappi Fine Paper Europe
Alfeld, Germany
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Airless
Keeping
air out
Airless packaging is still a growth market. Here COSSMA presents
some of the latest developments.
T
photo: Promens
oly’s liquid foundation in a single-walled airless pack with a
mirror integrated on the cap has
a side button actuation and a flowthrough sponge applicator to help
apply the product. Their leak-proof airless jar with a hinged lid prevents finger contamination thus further improving the product’s shelf life.
The chemically neutral Micro 15 ml
pump from Mega Airless was selected
for various L’Oréal brands in an exten-
photo: Mega Airless
Each squeeze of the tube is equivalent to
breaking open a new sterile monodose
photo: Toly
The formulation, in a spiral shape, –
serum and cream – is dispensed
in a synchronised way
Foundation with a
mirror integrated
in the cap has a
side button actuation and a flowthrough sponge
applicator
sive project with ”Swirl” 2-in-1 applications, since it does not extend down into the container and prevents mixing of
the two formulations during use. Mega
Airless’ new bag-in-bottle airless and
neutral pack solution delivers both
high-barrier formulation protection –
with up to six layer combinations available. The complete range of BiB containers has been created in cooperation with Germany’s Gaplast, which
provides the co-extruded “delaminating” bottles, while Mega Airless delivers the pump/adapter system. A defined fixing of the inner bag at the bottle’s bottom and neck results in less
residue as the bag collapses. Recent
examples of the system include: Dr.
Hauschka Med Body Lotion and Face
Cream Weleda Granatapfel Serum in a
15 ml Mini with self-sealing actuator,
as well as Weleda’s range of four ergonomically-shaped body lotions.
A-derma’s emollient care Exomega
for very dry and atopic skin is manufactured under a sterile process for
both packaging and formulation. To
maintain product sterility Pierre Fabre’s brand A-derma uses the D.E.F.I.
sterile distribution system developed
and patented by Promens in partnership with Pierre Fabre laboratories.
This closure system is totally airtight,
with no air intake and prevents any
contamination of the formula before
and during product use. The D.E.F.I.
cap consists of 4 parts, including a supple membrane which rises when pressure is applied to the tube and later
resumes its position when pressure is
released.
Lumson’s new APP Airless Plastic
Packaging can be easily customized
with different shapes as the company’s
Airless Pouch Technology can be applied to any kind of bottle design.
The system guarantees a dispense rate
of more than 95% of the container
AM
contents.
Primary packaging
made of tubular glass
The more valuable the contents, the more important
is Lutz packaging as partner.
If we talk about high quality substances, the packaging must
also meet these high requirements. Our delivery program
includes ampoules, vials and perfume tubes as packaging
for pharmaceutical, biological, dietetic, cosmetic and
technical substances.
The company Lutz packaging stands for innovative products
of high quality, security and reliability as well as most
modern production engineering.
A sophisticated quality assurance system and a customeroriented after sales service are topping off successfully
this high demand.
For more information, please contact us!
Lutz GmbH & Co. KG
Am Stammholz 11 · 97877 Wertheim / Germany
Phone (+49 93 42) 96 07-0 · Fax (+49 93 42) 96 07-20
e-mail: [email protected]
www.lutz-packaging.de
www.cossma.com
PRODUCTION PACKAGING NEWS
NEWS
Targetted innovative cartons
Compact perfomance
photo: Lindal
Lindal I The new
“compressed” deodorant format, developed for three major Unilever brands is
highlighted by smaller, “compressed”
cans which are said
to last as long as the
old product, use 50
percent of the propellant, are half the size
and reduce the overall carbon footprint of
the product by using
28 percent less aluminum and further
savings in transportation and stocking.
www.lindal.com
The new deo format uses
50 percent less propellant
www.edelmann.de
Fphoto: Edelmann
Packaging
Edelmann I The developers and suppliers of retail cartons have
given their business a new look. With a new technical design centre
the functions of design and construction, graphics and CAD have
been brought together in order to shorten the time required to create
a package ready for production. In the constructive design section
concepts for unusual packaging shapes are developed, as well as
user-convenient functionality.
An ideas bank of more than 2,500 designs acts as the basis for rapid
detailed development. And also regarded as very important in the
department are visual and tactile effects as seen in, for example,
the CEvolution package with curved and rounded shapes, or the
CEholo with individual holographic designs.
New visual and tactile effects in retail carton design
presents
COLOR PREVIEW 2014
with
a hero who really does exist
EL at the
K
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CO
ss in Mun
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Cosmet
L1
17 - HAL
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WWW.GRAFE-DESIGN.COM
www.cossma.com
PACKAGING NEWS
2012 – another busy year for
tubes
PRODUCTION
Market sales for tubes in 2012
Percent of the total aluminium tube output
photo: Etma
Etma I In 2012 the member companies of etma (the european tube manufacturers association) once again increased
total sales over the previous year, increasing business by
1 percent to 10.33 billion tubes. Accounting for 43 percent
of the total, the cosmetics market was by far the biggest.
Pharmaceuticals and toothpaste accounted for 23 percent
and 20 percent respectively. Other tubes made up the remaining 14 percent, with foodstuffs taking 9 percent and
household and industrial products taking 5 percent.
www.etma-online.org
Pochet du Courval I 42 blueprints and 21
sampling tests were, according to the producer,
required to develop the bottle for Jour d’Hermès
which comes in 5 formats, 7.5 ml, 12.5 ml,
30 ml, 50 ml and 85 ml. The exceptional
weight, reaching 450 g for the 85 ml version,
is made possible by a special glassmaking
process. Inverse reading silk screen printing
that plays with the visual properties of luminous and crystalline glass, adds a graceful
final touch to the bottles.
www.pochetducourval.com
Exceptional weight coupled
with flawless glass distribution
h
Ergonomic triggeractuated sprayer
MWV I MWV’s ergonomic trigger-actuated Aerosense aerosol sprayer features effortless actuation and a continuous, even
spray pattern. Additionally, it has a special
feature to prevent the sprayer from unexpectedly activating in a bag or suitcase.
The sprayer is designed for products such
as sun care, body spray deodorant and
hair spray.
www.meadwestvaco.com
Ergonomic trigger sprayer helps
to distinguish products from traditional
push-button sprayers
photo: MWV
photo: Pochet du Courval
Ultra-thick glass
COS1305_38_Formulierung_GB_COS1105_10_Anti_Aging_GB 22.04.13 08:59 Seite 38
www.cossma.com
SERVICES
FORMULATIONS
In our June issue we will be focussing on
formulations for sun care products. In
July it will be the turn of formulations
for hair care, hair styling and hair
colour products. All of the information published here has been
carefully assembled, however,
neither the publishers nor the
developers of these formulations can accept responsibility
for their safety or accuracy.
F
or those who are looking for
something more refined the
Natural cosmetics
The natural cosmetics trend is still very significant, but is developing in a more modest way than it was a few years ago. For many
manufacturers it has become clear that one way to progress is to
look and see to what extent traditional products can be reformulated as natural ones. Our selection of 28 formulations submitted has
something for everyone, and in a wide range of product categories.
For those of you who are interested the full and detailed formulations can be downloaded free of charge from our web site*.
Natural Two-Phase Conditioner
from Dr. Straetmans, the Brume Micellaire from Lucas Meyer or the Pisum
Downloads
All formulations can be found at
User name: cossma5
Password: active
Sativum Dual Purpose Mask from
Active Concepts should prove inter-
esting.
To respond to the strong consumer
demand for multifunctional products
the Multi-Active Anti-Ageing Cream
from Soliance and the Clean & Care
Baby Mousse from Zschimmer &
Schwarz look promising.
Pisum Sativum
Dual Purpose Mask
Active Concepts
Jojoba & Coconut Ecocert
Sun Cream SPF 30
Croda
Healthy Skin Serum Gel
Akzo Nobel
Natural Two-Phase
Skin Conditioner
Dr. Straetmans
Bergamot Liquid Serum
Amedeo Brasca
Cosmobiotic Velvet Cream
Ashland
Clear Body Wash according
to Cosmos Standard
BASF
Natural Emulsion
Biesterfeld
Lip Balm – 95% Organic,
100% Natural
Brenntag Specialties
Day Moisturizer
Carotech
Natural Moisturizing Face Care
for Sensitive Skin (O/W)
CLR
COSSMA 5 I 2013
* The access codes to these formulations are found in
the Internet panel on this page
Ecocert Foundation
Kobo Products
Blush Me Pink
Lonza
Mild Sulfate-Free Baby Body Wash
Lubrizol Noveon
Shine & Comfort Lipstick
Estenity
Brume Micellaire
Lucas Meyer
Mild Hair & Body Shampoo,
PEG and Sulfate Free
Evonik
Natural Lip Balm Stick
Nordmann, Rassmann
All Day Long Concealer
Floratech
Natural Light Face Cream, O/W
GfN Selco
Fresh Gel Cream for Legs
Sederma
Multi-Activ Anti-Ageing Cream
(Ecocert)
Soliance
Eye Tightening Serum
Honeywell
Sulfate Free Conditioning
Shampoo
TC USA
Natural Slimming Cream
Impag
Clean & Care Baby Mousse
Zschimmer & Schwarz
Moisturizing Baby Lotion
Kao Chemicals
Natural Body Lotion
Zschimmer & Schwarz
www.systemkosmetik.de
38
Formulations for colour cosmetics
are put forward by Lonza with their
Blush Me Pink, Kobo Products with an
Ecocert Foundation and Floratech
with the All Day Long Concealer.
COS1305_Lubrizol_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 19.04.13 09:43 Seite 1
www.cossma.com
NEW!
Carbopol® Ultrez 30
Polymer
Carbopol ® and Formulate with Confidence™ are trademarks of
The Lubrizol Corporation. © 2013 The Lubrizol Corporation.
make it
possible.
keep young skin flawless. help aging skin
remain youthful. formulate systems featuring
challenging anti-aging and blemish-fighting
actives with NEW Carbopol® Ultrez 30
polymer. this new rheology modifier offers
improved electrolyte tolerance, superior
thickening performance in a broader
pH range, and rich distinct sensory. it’s all
possible with Carbopol Ultrez 30 polymer.
formulate with confidence™.
www.lubrizol.com/ultrez30
+32 (0)2.678.1911
make it with Carbopol Ultrez 30 polymer.
631-11_EA_Image_Med_Cos_GB_631-11_EA_Image_Med_Cos_uk 19.04.13 09:45 Seite 1
www.cossma.com
medical BEAUTY FORUM…
… forms the bridge between research and its practical application
in the fields of aesthetic medicine and cosmetics
www.medical-beautyforum.com
For a successful partnership:
· Covers the current state of knowledge and practice for doctors
involved with aesthetic procedures and for beauticians
· Cosmetology, technology or trophology: Carries in-depth and
carefully researched professional knowledge and guidance
– Published 6 times per annum
– Reaches more than 10.000 dermatologists,
beauticians and plastic surgeons in Germany,
Austria and Switzerland
Further information: www.cossma.com/medicalBF
Health and Beauty Germany GmbH • Karl-Friedrich-Str.14–18 • 76133 Karlsruhe • Deutschland
Geschäftsführer: Jürgen Volpp • Registergericht Mannheim • HRB 106183 • USt-ID: DE 813859129
COS1305_41_Kalender_GB_COS1105_10_Anti_Aging_GB 22.04.13 08:59 Seite 41
www.cossma.com
EVENTS
Fairs, conferences and seminars
When?
What?
13.–14.05.2013
BDIH-Fachtagung
14.–15.05.2013
NYSCC Suppliers’ Day
15.–16.05.2013
Luxe Pack
New York
DGK-Symposium
15.–17.05.2013
16.–18.05.2013
20.–22.05.2013
23.05.2013
23.–25.05.2013
23.–26.05.2013
28.–29.05.2013
28.–30.05.2013
01.–03.06.2013
02.–03.06.2013
04.–05.06.2013
04.–05.06.2013
Sustainable Cosmetics
Summit North America
China Beauty
Expo
SCS Annual
General Meeting
epda congress
EADV Spring
Symposium
Welt der
Handelsmarken
Beautyworld
Middle East
BEAUTY FORUM MACEDONIA
Natural & organic
beauty show
InnoCos Europe
08.–10.06.2013
International Sun
Protection Conference
SCC Annual
Scientific Seminar
Global Art of
Perfumery
Beyond Color
09.–10.06.2013
Hair and Beauty
10.–12.06.2013
CESIO Congress
12.–13.06.2013
Pack & Gift
12.–14.06.2013
13.–14.06.2013
Cosmetics Europe
General Assembly
CosmeticBusiness
18.–20.06.2013
HBA Global Expo
20.–21.06.2013
MakeUp in Paris
26.–28.06.2013
04.–06.09.2013
Cosme Tokyo
Cosme Tech
International Conference
on Antioxidants
European Aerosol
Conference
HairS’13
09.–11.09.2013
Cosmeeting
11.–13.09.2013
Flavors & Fragrances
Conference
Internationales
Marken-Kolloquium
Conference on Innovation
in Drug Delivery
06.–07.06.2013
08.–09.06.2013
26.–28.06.2013
01.–06.09.2013
12.–13.09.2013
22.–25.09.2013
Where?
Who?
2013
Mannheim
Germany
Edison, NJ
USA
New York
USA
Mannheim
Germany
New York
USA
Shanghai
China
London
Great Britain
Istanbul
Turkey
Krakau
Poland
Amsterdam
Netherlands
Dubai
VAE
Thessaloniki
Greece
BDIH
[email protected], www.bdih.de
NYSCC
http://www.nyscc.org/suppliersday2013.html
Idice SAS
www.luxepack.com
DGK e.V.
[email protected], www.dgk-ev.de
Organic Monitor
www.sustainablecosmeticssummit.com
Shanghai Baiwen Exhibition
www.cbebaiwen.com
SCS
www.scs.org.uk
epda
www.epda-packaging.com
EADV
www.cracow2013.eadv.org
PLMA
www.plma.nl
Epoc Messe Frankfurt
www.beautyworldme.com
Beauty Greece Tsirimokou
[email protected]
www.health-and-beauty.com
London
Great Britain
Nice
France
London
Great Britain
St. Louis
USA
Berlin
Germany
Paris
France
Frankfurt a.M.
Germany
Shorex
www.naturalbeautyshow.com
KGS B.V.
www.innocosevents.com
Summit Events
www.summit-events.com
SCC
www.scconline.org
Trendmessen GmbH
www.global-art-of-perfumery.com
Beyond Beauty Events
www.beyondcolorexpo.com
Messe Frankfurt
Exhibition
www.messefrankfurt.com
Cesio
www.cesio-congress.eu
Idice
www.packandgift.com
Cosmetics Europe
www.cosmeticseurope.eu
Leipziger Messe GmbH
www.cosmetic-business.com/tradefair
UBM Live
www.hbaexpo.com
Beauteam
[email protected], www.makeup-in-paris.com
Reed Exhibitions Japan
[email protected], www.cosmetokyo.jp/en
ISANH
www.isanh-me.com
Czech Aerosol Society
[email protected], www.eac2013.cz
DWI an der RWTH Aachen
www.dwi.rwth-aachen.de
Beyond Beauty Events
www.cosmeeting.com
GDCh
www.gdch.de
Mandat
www.mandat.de
APGI
www.apgi.org
Barcelona
Spain
Paris
France
Brussels
Belgium
Munich
Germany
New York
USA
Paris
France
Tokyo
Japan
Marracesh
Morocco
Prague
Czech Republic
Lübeck
Germany
Paris
France
Leipzig
Germany
Seebruck
Germany
Lille
France
SERVICES
COSSMA 5 I 2013
41
467-11_EA_Cossma_Guide_GB_467-11_EA_Cossma_Guide_GB 19.04.13 09:45 Seite 1
www.cossma.com
Find tomorrow’s
suppliers today!
www.cossma.com/guide
Check the website with detailed online-information for the personal care industry –
news, product innovations, addresses, events, books and these selected internet sites:
Your entry in the supplier’s
database for the personal care
and cosmetics industry make sure
you are found by your customers
of tomorrow – very cost-effective!
This entry
(Your basic entry, product,
divisions, company logo,
website, link, short
description PLUS your
brand names))
is available for
just € 120,–
per month!
3
1
2
4a
5
4b
Advertising opportunities in www.cossma.com/guide
No. Description
Basic Entry, consisting of your mailing address, up to 3 contact manes, phone and fax
numbers, company e-mail adress, listing of up to 4 product divisions
1
Your price per month/
per12 month
FREE OF CHARGE!
(each additional product division: plus € 1,– per month, € 12,–per year)
2
Website link – linking to the URL of your choice
3
Your Company Logo Format 96 x 96 Pixel,
will also be published on www.cossma.com/suppliers
(can only be booked in combination with complete basic entry)
€ 25,– per month
€ 300,– per 12 month/1 year
(can only be booked in combination with complete basic entry)
4a
4b
5
Your short description consisting of
up to 2000 characters (app. 20 words) text
Your profile text consisting of
up to 2000 characters (app. 200 words) text
Your brands – a list of your most important brand names and trade
(up to 4 brand names)
You can find further information of these
suppliers at www.cossma.com/guide
Your will be listed here for just € 25,– per month
– for further information, please contact
Dorothea Michaelis
[email protected]
phone +49 (0)721 165-144
COS1305_43_IBF_GB_COS1105_10_Anti_Aging_GB 22.04.13 08:59 Seite 43
www.cossma.com
INTERNATIONAL B2BEXCHANGE
SERVICES
Go to
www.cossma.com/
b2bexchange
B2B Exchange: Find your
business partners of tomorrow today!
for more information
about suppliers and
their products
COSSMA and BEAUTY FORUM will help you to build new
business contacts.
All our business partners can use this "International B2B
Exchange".
Have a look at the entries below now and
find your business partner of tomorrow today!
Further information: see www.cossma.com/b2b-exchange
(a =NEW!)
Wish to export their products
abalico
D-69469 Weinheim, Germany
Contact: Mr. Rüdiger Vogel
[email protected]; www.abalico.de
Products: Cosmetic products
for hand and nail
wish to export to: A, CH, F, E, GB
Akzent direct GmbH
D-63571 Gelnhausen, Germany
Contact: Mr. Reiner Schmidt
[email protected];
www.akzent-direct.com
Products: Nail Design, Permanent Make-Up
wish to export to: Asia, AUS, Africa, Near East,
P, E, I
Beauty Line Consulting
D-76698 Ubstadt-Weiher, Germany
Contact: Janos Stegena
[email protected]
www.belico.de
Products: skin and body Care products,
private label, bulk
wish to export to: worldwide
beauty lumis GmbH
D- 80995 München, Germany
Contact: Angela Frommer
[email protected]
www.byonik.net
Products: 2-Frequenz-Simultan- Meso-Laser-and
cosmetic products
DR. BELTER COSMETIC GMBH
D-38106 Braunschweig, Germany
Contact: Mira Fischbach
[email protected]
www.BELTER.de
Products: skin and body care cosmetics
GERTRAUD GRUBER
KOSMETIK GmbH & Co.
D-83700 Rottach-Egern/Tegernsee, Germany
Contact: Roland Schäfer
[email protected]
www.gertraudgruber.de
Products: Wirkstoffaktives holistisches Produktund Anwendungskonzept auf Naturbasis
der 1. Beautyfarm Europas.
Klapp Cosmetics GmbH
Guderma GmbH
D-59192 Bergkamen, Germany
Contact: Mr. Manfred Wolf
[email protected]
www.fusspunkt.de
Products: Skin Care Products for dry und
very dry skin
Heitland & Petre International
GmbH (ROSA GRAF)
D- 29229 Celle, Germany
Contact: Saskia Schneider
[email protected]
www.heitland.com
Products: skin care products, wellness & spa treatments
House of Melchiorsen
DK-4700 Naestved, Denmark
Contact: Annelise Langhorn
[email protected]
www.susanne-melchiorsen.com
Products: Natural Skin Care products and herbal
teas – made of biodynamic herbs from
own d herbs-garden.
Wish to export to: Worldwide
Ingeburg Praxis-Cosmetic GmbH
Dr. GRANDEL GmbH
PHYRIS Premium Spa Cosmetic
D-86150 Augsburg, Germany
Contact: Mr. Jürgen Geisler
[email protected]
www.grandel.de
Products: Skin care products,
wish to export to: GB, GUS, TR, TW, S. America
IONTO-COMED GmbH
D-76137 Karlsruhe, Germany
Contact: Export
[email protected]
www.ionto.de
Products: cosmetic and footcare technology
D-78229 Karlsruhe, Germany
Contact: Ms. Renate Karner
[email protected]
www.praxis-cosmetic.de
Products: Skin and Body Care
Cosmetics, Ampoules,
Decorative cosmetics
wish to export to: EU + worldwide
D- 37235 Hessisch Lichtenau, Germany
Contact: Fernando Duarte
[email protected]
www.klapp-cosmetics.com
Products: Cosmetic products,
SPA collection series
wish to export to: EU, S. America, Asia
NEOVITA COSMETICS
D-69256 Mauer, Germany
Contact: Karina Grimm
[email protected]
www.neovita.de
Products: Premium Skin Care products for
professionals
Dr. med Christine Schrammek
Kosmetik GmbH & Co. KG
D-45127 Essen, Germany
Contact: Birgit Schmitz
[email protected]
www.schrammek.de
Products: Hautpflegeprodukte, Peelings
wish to export to: I, MAL, RA, UA, ZA
TANA Cosmetics
D-33602 Bielefeld, Germany
Contact: Egypt-Wonder GmbH+Co.KG
Mr. Ronald Fortmann
[email protected]
www.tana-cosmetics.com
Products: Colour cosmetics,
Cosmetic products for self tanning
wish to export to: E, F, DK, S
COSSMA 5 I 2013
43
COS1305_44_GB_Einstieg_COS_BQ_1107_08_GB_Einstieg 19.04.13 09:47 Seite 44
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SERVICES
SUPPLIERS’ GUIDE
Suppliers Guide Alphabetical Listing
On the following pages you will find a selection of suppliers to the cosmetics
industry. The listing is in alphabetical order based on the English section
headings. To make it easier for you to find what you are looking for we have
listed the German section headings below, with their English equivalents.
A detailed supplier listing can be found starting on page 43ff. You can also
find a full overview, with a search function, at www.cossma.com/guide
Should your company be listed here?
Send an e-mail to [email protected]
We will be glad to send you details of terms and prices
German Heading
see
Abfüll- und Verschließmaschinen
Adeps Lanae
Ätherische Öle
Airless Systeme
Aloe Vera
Alu-Siegel-Verschlüsse
Ampullenabfüllung
Avocadobutter
Avocadoöl
Filling and Crimping Machines
Adeps Lanae
Essential Oils
Airless Systems
Aloe Vera
Aluminium Seal Closures
Ampul Filling
Avocadobutter
Avocado Oil
Boragesamenöl
Borage Seed Oil
Chitosan
Chitosan
Dermatologische + klinische Tests
Dichtemessung von Cremes,
Flüssigkeiten und Aerosolen
Dermataogical + Clinical Tests
Density Measurement of
Creams, Liquids and Aerosols
Etiketten
Etuis für die dekorative Kosmetik
Labels
Pouches a. Cases f. Colour Cosmetics
Fettsäure-Ester Flüssigkeitszerstäuber und Sprühpistolen
Formen und Kunststoffteile
Fatty Acid Esters
Dispensers and Trigger Pumps
Molds and Plastic Parts
Glittereffekte
Hagebuttenkernöl
Hyaluronsäure Natrium
Glitter Effects
Rose Hip Oil
Hyaluronic Acid Sodium
Johanniskrautöl Hacoba
Jojobaperlen
Jojobaöl
St. John’s Wort Oil /Hypericum Oil
Jojobabeads/Grains/Pearls
Jojoba Oil
Karmin
Kosmetik-Farbstoffe
Kosmetik-Rohstoffe
Carmine
Cosmetics Colorants
Cosmetics Raw Materials
Lanolin (Adeps Lanae),
Wollwachs, -alkohole
pestizidarm
Lohnabfüllung
Lohnherstellung Arzneimittel
und Kosmetika
Lohnherstellung und Verpackung
Lanolin (Adeps Lanae),
Low Pesticide Wool Wax,
Wool Alcohols
Contract Filling
Contract Manufacturing
Pharmaceuticals and Cosmetics
Manufacturing + Packaging
Makadamianussöl
Mandelöl
Mischkugeln für Aerosole
Molch-Reinigungssysteme
Macadamia Nut Oil
Almond Oil
Aerosol Mixing Balls
Pig Clearing Systems
Nachtkerzenöl
Evening Primrose Oil
Oleochemicals
Olivenbutter
Olivenöl
Oleochemicals
Olivebutter
Olive Oil
Parfümöl
Pumpen für die Produktion
Rizinusöl
Perfume Oil
Pumps for the production process
Castor Oil
Sesamöl
Sheabutter
Spraysysteme
Sesame Oil
Shea Butter
Spray Systems
Verpackungen
Packaging
Weizenkeimöl
Wirkstoffe für Kosmetika
Wollwachs
Wheat Germ Oil
Actives for Cosmetics
Wool Wax
✂
✂
ADVERTISING FAX-SERVICE:
Fax +49 (0) 721 165-227
Start winning tomorrow’s customer today
with your entry in the suppliers’ guide
width of column:
price per mm height:
for a period of:
advertising deadline:
43 mm
€ 3,10
1 year
10th day of each month before
publication
❑ Yes, I wish to place a firm order for an entry in the suppliers’
guide at a price of € 3,10 per column mm for each entry.
You will receive the text for my ad with separate fax.
Company:
Please send me an order confirmation for the following ad:
Category/ies:
Height i. mm:
To be first published in issue:
❑ 06/2013
contact:
❑ black and white
❑ 07-08/2013
❑ 09/2013
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date, signature
COS1305_45_BQ_GB_COS_BQ_1107_08_GB 19.04.13 09:48 Seite 45
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SUPPLIERS’ GUIDE
Adeps Lanae
Adeps Lanae
Ampul Filling
Ampullenabfüllung
Contract Filling
Lohnabfüllung
SiLibeads
glass balls for
aerosol sprays
SIGMUND LINDNER GmbH
Phone(++49)9277-99410·Fax(++49)9277-99499
www.sili.eu
Eigene Rezepturen
Zink-Spray
Alu-Spray
Schmierspray
Techn. Aerosole
W + S Aerosoltechnik GmbH
Am Sportplatz 5
63791 Karlstein
Tel. 0 61 88 / 95 75 13
Fax 0 61 88 / 95 75 44
Ein Unternehmen der Firmengruppe
Fischer
Ampullenabfüllung GbR
Abfüllung in
1 ml bis 20 ml-Glasampullen
Wir bieten auch
Konfektionierung an!
®
Aerosol-Qualitätsabfüllung
im Rhein-Main-Gebiet
Lohnabfüllung
Konfektionierung
Verpackung
Versand
Produktentwicklung
H. Erhard Wagner GmbH
28701 Bremen, Postfach 77 01 20
Tel. (04 21) 6 93 60-0, Fax (04 21) 6 93 60 15
www.wagnerlanolin.com
Aerosol Mixing Balls
Mischkugeln für Aerosole
SERVICES
Lohnabfüllung
Zellaerosol GmbH
Wiesenstraße 13
D-79669 Zell/Wiesental
Telefon 0 76 25 / 92 53-0
Telefax 0 76 25 / 92 53-14
Internet: www.zellaerosol.de
Rufen Sie uns an:
Fischer Ampullenabfüllung GbR
Am Sportplatz 5
D-76479 Steinmauern
Tel.: ++49 (0) 72 22 / 2 36 26
Fax: ++ 49 (0) 72 22 / 2 54 91
[email protected]
www.ampullenabfuellung.de
Please note: Issue 06/2013
Aloe Vera
Aloe Vera
Carmine
Karmin
Advertising
Hotline
+49 (0)721 165-144
Aluminium Seal Closures
Alu-Siegel-Verschlüsse
Publishing date:
03.06.2013
Advertising deadline:
26.04.2013
Please do not
hesitate to contact us if you
have any further questions
Call: Dorothea Michaelis
+49 (0)721 165-144
Certification
Zertifizierung
+ Packaging
HIRTLER SEIFEN GmbH
Quality bar soap
for personal care
Seit 125 Jahren entwickeln und
stellen wir her
SCHENKEN SIE
LEBEN. MIT
EINER PATENSCHAFT.
Alu-Siegelverschlüsse
Alu-Folien
• für Glas- u. Kunststoff-Behälter
• in Kleinst- u. Massenauflage
• in jeder Größe zu jedem Zweck
• Qualität seit 1957
DERSCHLAG GmbH & Co. KG
Stanzerei und Folienverarbeitung
57319 Bad Berleburg
Tel.: 0 27 51/20 27, Fax: 0 27 51/20 25
Your company could be
placed here for only
€ 155,00 per issue.
Feinseifen (Stückseifen),
Syndets und Combars,
Seifengranulate und -nudeln,
Rohglycerin
und exportieren in alle Welt.
HIRTLER SEIFEN GmbH
Beiersdorfstraße 1 79423 Heitersheim
Tel.: 0 76 34/51 00-0 Fax: 0 76 34/51 00-99
www.hirtler.com0
Werden Sie Pate bei World
Vision und schenken Sie
einem Kind eine echte Chance!
www.worldvision.de
“We love Cosmetics and live Full Filling Service”
• Development
• Compounding
• Filling
• Packaging
• Logistics
Book your ad today.
Call
+49 (0)721 165-144
•
•
•
•
Transparenzpreis 2009
• Skin & Body Care
• Hair Care
• Fine Fragrances
• Oral Care
• Aerosols
Bahnhofstrasse 47, A- 6175 Kematen
Tel: +43 (0)5232-3131-0, Fax: -9401
www.kemacos.com
COSSMA 5 I 2013
45
www.cossma.com
SERVICES
SUPPLIERS’ GUIDE
+ Packaging
Pharmac. + Cosmetics
Cosmetic Ingredients
Kosmetik-Rohstoffe
Cosmetic Spatulas
Kosmetik-Spatel
innovativ
kompetent
zuverlässig
Entwicklung, Bulkherstellung, Konfektionierung
Aerosole, Kosmetik, Pharmazeutik/OTC,
Medizin- und Haushaltsprodukte
GANZ EINFACH:
Trichema AG
Lättichstrasse 4
Postfach 1063
CH-6341 Baar
Tel 0041 (0)41 768 0202
Fax 0041 (0)41 768 0200
[email protected]
www.trichema.ch
$#"!!
!
"
"
LEISTUNG
HERSTELLEN
von Salben, Gelen, Cremes, Zahnpasta,
Liquida, Pulver; Suppositorien in PVCoder Aluzellen.
ABFÜLLEN
in Alu-, Kunststoff-, Laminattuben,
Tiegel, Flaschen, Beutel, Dosen.
go Meding GmbH
Kruppstraße 8 · D-58553 Halver
Tel.: +49 (0) 23 53 / 91 58 -0
Fax: +49 (0) 23 53 / 91 58 - 28
[email protected]
www.meding.com
Dermatological +
Clinical Tests
Engelstraße 37, 48143 Münster
www.dermatest.de
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placed here for only
€ 108,50 per issue.
Advertising
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+49 (0)721 165-144
KONFEKTIONIEREN
DOKUMENTIEREN
GMP-gerechte Kontrolle und Dokumentation. Modernes Labor mit
Mikrobiologie.
Essential Oils
Ätherische Öle
Polyurethanes, film forming polymers
and sensory additives for your
cosmetic formulations
[email protected]
www.bayercosmetics.com
baycusan
®
RF
und
von pharmazeutischen, kosmetischen,
chemischen Produkten, Nahrungs- und
Genußmitteln.
Ätherische Öle
Aroma-Chemikalien
Extrakte
www.reincke-fichtner.de
Rolf Schneider
Handelsgesellschaft mbH
Louisenstraße 141
D-61348 Bad Homburg
Telefon: 0 61 72 4 96 30
Fax:
0 61 72 49 63 40
web:
www.rolf-schneiderhandelsgesellschaft.de
WAGENER & CO
GANZ EINFACH : LEISTUNG.
Wagener & Co GmbH
Postfach 1645 · 49516 Lengerich
Telefon 0 54 81 / 8 06 - 0
Telefax 0 54 81 / 8 06 - 200
Internet: www.wagener-co.de
for more information:
www.lanxess-distribution.com
PLASTICS
PROCESSING
DEFORMATION
REFINEMENT
Advertising
Hotline
Processing and conditioning of plastics
and acryl glass
Vacuum forming, milling, polishing,
bending, imprinting and mold construction
+49 (0)721 165-144
www.worldvision.de
46
COSSMA 5 I 2013
Displays
Warenpräsentation
phone +49 (0)89 3 29 20 41 · fax +49 (0)89 3 29 20 42
e-mail: [email protected] · www.riwa-display.de
www.cossma.com
SUPPLIERS’ GUIDE
Filling Lines
Filling Lines
Maschinen für Aerosole
und Sprühsysteme
–
–
–
–
Glitter Effects
Glittereffekte
SiLiglit
Packaging
Verpackungen
SERVICES
Vegetable Oils
Pflanzenöle
Rosa Heinz GmbH
®
Füll- und Verschliessmaschinen
Prüf- und Sicherheitseinrichtungen
Sortier-, Zuführ- und Aufsetzmaschinen
Mess- und Testgeräte
www.a-o-t.com
Verpackungen aus Glas und Kunststoff
Straßfeld 6, 85777 Fahrenzhausen
Tel. +49 (0 )8133 - 91 85 90
Fax: +49 (0 )8133 - 91 85 99
[email protected]
www.rosa-heinz.de
AOT GmbH
Kosmetik - Pharmazeutik - Chemie Technik - Nahrungsmittelindustrie Farben/Lacke - Polyurethanschäume
Pamasol Willi Mäder AG, CH-8808 Pfäffikon
T +41(0)55 4174040, F +41(0)55 4174044
[email protected], www.pamasol.com
SIGMUND LINDNER GmbH
Phone (++49) 9277 99410 · Fax (++49) 9277 99499
E - M a i l : s i l i @ s i g m u n d - l i n d n e r. c o m
www.sili.eu
We deliver high-quality oils, fats,
raw materials and extracts in organic quality
Verpackung
für Kosmetik –
Selbstabfüller
Please note: Issue
06/2013
Dosen u. Flaschen in Plastik u.
Glas (Sprühköpfe, Dosierspender,
Aromaflaschen, Parfümflaschen,
Sprühflaschen ohne Treibgas)
Publishing date:
03.06.2013
Fordern Sie unsere Unterlagen an
Advertising deadline:
26.04.2013
Please do not
hesitate to contact us if
you have any further
questions
Call: Dorothea Michaelis
+49 (0)721 165-144
Auch Kleinstmengen!
R.GERSCHON GMBH
D . 61462 Königstein im Taunus
Tel. 06174/7017 . Fax 06174/1312
Internet: www.gerschon.de
Siebdruck ab 300 Stück
”Your advertisement
could be right“
Book now:
Call +49 (0)721165-144
Wool wax
Wollwachs
Tel. (04 21) 6 93 60-0, Fax (04 21) 6 93 60 15
Cosmetic packagings
big choice on stock
Lanolin (Adeps Lanae)
Lanolin (Adeps Lanae)
in plastic, glass, aluminium
caps, pumps, sprayers, pipettes
MOQ 100 pc for stock items
decoration from 1.000 pc per ref.
Tel. (04 21) 6 93 60-0, Fax (04 21) 6 93 60 15
Food Supplements
Nahrungsergänzung
Mixing + homogenizing
privatebrand.ch
Gewerbering 10
D-85777 Fahrenzhausen
Fon +49 8133 - 44 4090
Fax +49 8133 - 44 409 -11
[email protected]
www.pack-it.de
SCHENKEN SIE
LEBEN. MIT
EINER PATENSCHAFT.
Werden Sie Pate bei World
Vision und schenken Sie
einem Kind eine echte Chance!
www.worldvision.de
A STEP AHEAD
symex GmbH & Co. KG
Lengstr. 10, 27572 Bremerhaven
Fon: +49 (0)471/ 98 40 10
Fax: +49 (0)471/ 98 40 140
www.symex.de
Transparenzpreis 2009
COSSMA 5 I 2013
47
COS1305_48_Verzeichnis_GB_COS1105_10_Anti_Aging_GB 22.04.13 09:00 Seite 48
www.cossma.com
Advertisers’
Index
Air Products & Chemicals Inc
www.airproducts.com
Ama Laboratories
www.amalabs.com
Akzo Nobel Surface Chemistry
www.akzonobel.com
Anomatic Corp.
www.anomatic.com
Company
Index
p. 30
p. 16
p. 7
p. 34
Beauteam – MakeUp in Paris
www.premiumbeautynews.com
p. 22
Bayer Material Science AG
www.bayercosmetics.de
p. 52
bi packaging Zhejiang B.I. I/E CO.,LTD.
www.bi-packaging.com
p. 29
CLR Chem. Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH
www.clr-berlin.com
p. 2
Clariant International Ltd
www.clariant-personalcare.com
Coradin SAS Plastic Injection Molding
www.conradin.com
S.17
p. 9
Cremer Care
www.cremer-care.com
p. 37
DERMATEST GmbH
www.dermatest.de
p. 23
Flavex Naturextrakte GmbH
www.flavex.com
GRAFE Advanced Polymers GmbH
www.grafe.com
Greentech GmbH
www.greentechgmbh.de
p. 8
p. 36
p. 15
IMPAG Import GmbH
www.impag.de, www.impag.eu
p. 13
Kosmetik Konzept GmbH
www.kosmetik-konzept.eu
p. 25
Lipotec S.A.
www.lipotec.com
p. 31
Lonza Personal Care
www.lonza.com, www.archchemicals.com
p. 5
Lubrizol Advanced Materials
www.lubrizol.com
p. 39
Lutz GmbH & Co. KG
p. 35
Mani GmbH Chemische Produkte
www.mani-gmbh.com
pp. 19, 38
MegaPlast GmbH
www.megaplast.de
p. 26
Nahrin AG
www.nahrin.ch
p. 15
Sederma GmbH
www.sederma.fr
p. 27
Stölzle-Oberglas GmbH
www.stoelzle.com
p. 26
SystemKosmetik Produktionsges.
für kosm. Erzeugnisse GmbH
p. 38
Tubex GmbH
www.tubex.de
p. 33
48
COSSMA 5 I 2013
A-derma
www.aderma.com
Adina Chemicals
www.cosmeticingredients.co.uk
p. 35
p. 8
p. 38
Neopac
www.neopac.com
Gaplast
www.gaplast.de
p. 35
Neovita Cosmetics
www.neovita.eu
p. 3
p. 28
Oriflame
www.oriflame.com
p. 19
Peter Schmidt Group
www.peter-schmidt-group.de
p. 32
Pierre Fabre
www.pierre-fabre.com
p. 35
Pochet du Courval
www.verreries-pochet.fr
p. 36
Promens
www.promens.com
p. 35
Floratech
www.floratech.com
Aerobal
www.aerobal.org
p. 36
Geka
www.geka-world.com
Albea
www.albea-group.com
p. 26
Givaudan
www.givaudan.com
Ancorotti Cosmetics
www.ancorotticosmetics.com
p. 28
HCP
www.hcpackaging.com
p. 28
Henkel
www.henkel.com
p. 23
Avon
www.avon.com
Babor
www.babor.de
Beiersdorf
www.beiersdorf.com
Bomo Trendline
www.bomo-trendline.de
CMC Consumer Medical Care
www.cmcpackaging.com
Cosderma
www.cosderma.com
Cosmopack
www.cosmoprof.com
CPL Aromas
www.cplaromas.com
Croda
www.croda.com
CVUA
www.cvua-karlsruhe.de
p. 8
p. 8
pp. 3, 16
IFF
www.iff.com
p. 8
p. 8
IKW
www.ikw.org
pp. 3, 24
p. 28
Kneipp-Werke
www.kneipp.de
p. 26
Kobo Products
www.koboproductsinc.com
p. 26
L’Oréal
www.loreal.com
p. 28
Lindal
www.lindalgroup.com
p. 8
Lonza
www.lonzagroup.com
Lumson
www.lumson.it
p. 10
pp. 3, 24
Mani
www.mani-gmbh.com
pp. 8, 20
p. 26
Rousselot
www.rousselot.com
p. 26
p. 36
Sappi
www.sappi.com
p. 32
p. 38
Soliance
www.soliance.com
p. 38
p. 35
Strellson
www.strellson.com
p. 32
p. 8
Symrise
www.symrise.com
p. 8
p. 38
pp. 3, 12, 35
p. 26
Mäurer & Wirtz Prestige
www.m-w.com
p. 32
Dr. Grandel
www.grandel.de
p. 19
Medik8
www.medik8.com
p. 19
Dr. Hauschka
www.drhauschka.com
p. 35
Mega Airless
www.megaplast.de
p. 35
Mintel
www.mintel.com
p. 19
Edelmann
www.edelmann.de
Etma
www.etma-online.org
p. 8
pp. 32, 36
p. 36
Mudpie
www.mudpie.co.uk
MWV
www.meadwestvaco.com
p. 8
Rebhan
www.rebhan-group.com
Dieter Bakic
www.bakic.com
Drom
www.drom.com
Rahn
www.rahn-group.com
p. 26
Taiki
www.taiki-europe.com
p. 26
Toly
www.toly.com
p. 35
Unilever
www.unilever.com
p. 36
p. 28
Weleda
www.weleda.com
p. 35
p. 36
Zschimmer & Schwarz
www.zschimmer-schwarz.com
p. 38
COS1305_49_Impressum_GB_COS1105_10_Anti_Aging_GB 22.04.13 09:00 Seite 49
www.cossma.com
Trends
Statements
Innovation
Masthead
Page
E-mail newsletter order
The
Team
Volume 14 ISSN 1439-7676
Published by Health and Beauty Germany GmbH
Managing Director: Jürgen Volpp
Assistant: Phone: +49 721 165-311
Address Health and Beauty Germany GmbH, COSSMA
P.O. Box 1446, 76003 Karlsruhe, Germany
Phone: +49 721 165-0, Fax: +49 721 165-148
Editorial Staff Legally responsible party and Senior Editor:
Angelika Meiss
Phone: +49 721 165-169
E-mail: [email protected]
Managing Director
Jürgen Volpp
Advisory Board François Berthoud, Jean-François Billon, Agnès Borel,
Peter Finkel, Dr. Ulrike Heinrich, Ulrich Herfurt,
Birgit Huber, Dr. Jean-Luc Lévêque, Dr. Daniel Maes,
Prof. Dr. Hagen Tronnier, Dr. Klaus-Peter Wittern
Advertising Advertisement Manager: Dorothea Michaelis
Phone: +49 721 165-144
Advertising Services: Ruth Reif
Phone: +49 721 165-232, Fax: +49 721 165-148
The current list of advertising rates is dated
1st of Jan. 2013.
Senior Editor
Angelika Meiss
+49 721 165-169
Circulation Health and Beauty Germany GmbH
Service [email protected]
Phone: +49 721 165-162, Fax: +49 721 165-148
Published: 10 issues per year
COSSMA: formerly “Parfümerie und Kosmetik“ and
“Aerosol and Spray Report“
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Italy Zero Venti
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New York, NY NY 10001, USA
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E-mail
First name, family name
Company
Street address
Postcode, city, country
Date and signature
© Copyright Health and Beauty Germany GmbH, Karlsruhe 2013
Graphics
Ulrich Hanke
+49 (0)721 165-592
The publisher has taken all reasonable steps to ensure the accuracy of information in this magazine. Nevertheless, no responsibility is accepted for any
errors which may occur. The magazine, including all articles and illustrations is
copyright. Unauthorised use of published material is prohibited and will be the
subject of legal action. This applies in particular to photo copying, translations,
microfilms and the storage and editing using electronic media. The use of trade
names, brand names, product designations etc. in this publication implies no
authority for their further use by third parties. Such product names and brands
may be the subject of legal protection, even though they may not be identified
as such in the magazine.
Order today:
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Health and Beauty Germany GmbH
Karl-Friedrich-Str. 14–18 76133 Karlsruhe Germany
[email protected]
Tel: +49(0) 721 165-131 Fax: +49(0) 721 165-103
COS1305_50_Vorschau_GB_COS1105_10_Anti_Aging_GB 22.04.13 09:01 Seite 50
www.cossma.com
SERVICES
Trend statement
Current trends in actives
PREVIEW
motional promises. The market has room for high cost as
well as for economical products, and not everybody can afford expensive power actives. We are quite convinced, however, that tomorrow’s consumers will want to know more
exactly what they are buying. They will be prepared to dig
deep into their pockets only if there is a suitably high percentage of genuine actives in the product, as the competition promises already.
www.elfetin.ch
photo: Isak 55, Shutterstock.com
It is not just the active substance but
also the concentration level of such a
substance that plays a key role in the
efficacy of cosmetics.
Based on many years with the active
substance suppliers Pentapharm
(now DSM) I can confidently say that
in our products we use as high a conMarkus Lüthy,
centration of the active substance as
founder and MD
we can. Certainly an active substance
of Elfetin Cosmetics
concentration of 10% and more is a
real exception, and the development
of such products was always a real challenge. Incompatibility between individual actives, and insufficient stability, were
a problem for months.
The results of the in vivo tests however show that the use of
very high active concentrations, with care to ensure an ideal active combination, pays off. Special combinations of
synthetic tripeptides with moisturisers and selected biotech
actives are particularly suitable. Even well-known and
proven actives can extend their potential in this way, and can
be a useful addition. In practice consumers are very satisfied when they experience what a cosmetic product with a
high active concentration can achieve.
There is still a lot of clarification required to ensure that the
end user is able to distinguish between products with a high
level of effective actives and those that just make empty pro-
A real challenge – high active concentrations
in an ideal combination
June 2013
A fresh breeze
blowing through
the hair care
business
Maria Castan,
Global Senior Scientist Wella,
Hair Color, Care & Styling,
discusses the trends that will
characterise hair care
in the future
Plus:
+++ Current hair care trends under the microscope +++
Bottles and jars – elegant new ideas in view? +++
+++ Exhibition preview: Make-up in Paris and Cosmetic
Business +++
COSSMA 6/2013 is published on June 3rd, 2013
50
COSSMA 5 I 2013
photo: Anna Subbotina, Shutterstock.com
Product development
Focus: Hair care
100-06_EA_CosmeticNET_uk_100-06_EA_CosmeticNET_uk 19.04.13 09:46 Seite 1
www.cossma.com
www.cossma.com/suppliers
Check the website with detailed online-information for the personal care industry –
news, product innovations, addresses, events, books and these selected internet sites:
www.a-o-t.com
Find tomorrow’s
suppliers today!
www.cherbsloeh.de
www.kemacos.com
www.botanica.ch
www.waldeck-gmbh.de
www.akzonobel.com/
detergents
www.rationator.com
www.meding.com
www.neopac.ch
www.flavex.com
www.bayercosmetics.com
www.gerschon.de
www.mawi-chemie.de
PUROLAN ENERGIZED BY
www.lanxess-distribution.com
Your Logo
here
€ 60,–
www.lohn-pack.com
www.pfeiffer-consulting.com
www.nordtek.hu/en
www.yourcompany.com
www.trichema.ch
www.brenntag-gmbh.com
www.ampullenabfuellung.de
www.zellaerosol.de
www.seufert.com
www.pro-beauty-production.de
www.hhac.de
www.novel-care.de
www.cplaromas.com
www.neocos.com
www.derschlag.com
www.privatebrand.ch
www.unionpack.de
www.Kosmetik-Konzept.eu
www.pack-it.de
www.riwa-display.de
www.etol.de
www.temmentec.ch
www.rusi.de
www.ballerstaedt.de
www.kautz-design.com
www.hirtler.com
www.symex.de
www.siriusmaschinen.de
www.domino-deutschland.de
www.intracosmed.ch
www.rettner.de
You can find further information of these
[email protected]/suppliers as well
as on their homepages (see Url below the logos).
Your logo can be listed here for just € 60,– per month
– for further information, please contact
Dorothea Michaelis
[email protected]
phone +49 (0)721 165-144
COS1305_Bayer_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 19.04.13 09:50 Seite 1
IMPROVE PERFORMANCE –
FORMULATE EMULSIFIER-FREE
Entirely new possibilities for sun care products: Baycusan® C 1000’s excellent
stabilizing properties allow emulsifier-free formulation. This results in an extremely pleasant skin feel and much better water resistance. In addition, when
combined with certain UV-B filters, Baycusan® C 1000 shows an SPF boosting effect.
Increase the performance of your product with Baycusan® C 1000.
Please visit us at www.baycusan.com for further information.
P O LY U R E T H A N E S F O R C O S M E T I C S
Bayer MaterialScience AG, 51368 Leverkusen, Germany · MS00063260
www.cossma.com

Focus: Active ingredients 5/2013

Transcription

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