Kitchen Remodeling - Copple Construction, LLC

Kitchen
Remodeling:
Design & Product
Selection Guide
© Copple Construction, llc, 2012
Table of Contents
About Copple Construction, llc
Copple Construction,llc Remodeling Process
Kitchen Remodeling Basics
Design Styles
Design Guidelines
New Design Considerations
Product Options
Cabinet Types and Construction
Cabinet Accessories
Cabinet Hardware
Cabinet Refinishing and Refacing
Tile
Flooring
Appliances
Countertop & Backsplash
The Kitchen Sink
Paint Colors
Lights / Fan
Accessories
Research / Catalogs
Services and Rates
1
2
3
6
9
16
19
19
25
29
35
37
43
46
50
54
58
61
62
63
64
About Copple Construction, llc
Copple Construction, llc is a Licensed Builder who specializes in residential and light-commercial
remodeling and repairs, as well as structured wiring. All projects are personally managed and much of the work is
performed by the owner, Kirk Copple. His attention to detail, knowledge, and experience of residential
construction allows for an personalized approach to your construction services. With your budget in mind, we can
explain all of the options for your project and help you choose the best one for your needs. We have experience
with many of the products on the market and can guide you through the choices.
A few small steps can have a dramatic effect on the cost, look, and durability. We have the experience
and knowledge to choose the proper products and techniques and to provide the skilled labor necessary to
complete your remodel properly, on time, and on budget. Helpers and specialists are brought in as needed. All
work is supervised and inspected by the owner to ensure it meets our high standards. Most of the helpers we use
are trusted professionals whom we have known for years.
Our mission is to:
• Develop a personalized solution to your problems
• Complete the work to the highest standards
• Develop a trusting relationship with each client, so we are their first call every time
• Complete the work for a reasonable rate
We pride ourselves on completing projects on time, but will always take the extra time, if necessary, to
ensure the work is completed properly. We rarely purchase the cheapest products, since we know the better
products normally cost only slightly more. We understand the small extra cost is worth it for the increased speed
of the installation, the improved look, and the increased durability/longevity of the finished project.
_______________________________________________________
History
Copple Construction, llc opened in 2007, with a two-fold purpose. The first is to provide top quality work at
reasonable rates. The owner has fixed too much substandard work in this area. If it’s worth doing, then it’s worth
doing right. We don’t use the cheapest materials and we spend the time to make sure each step is finished
properly. The second purpose is to provide a general contracting service which helps people choose the right
products and techniques to meet their needs and budget. Usually there are many options as to the materials and
techniques used to complete a project. So many contractors have become specialized, have only been trained in
one way to do something, and/or get special deals on certain products. Instead of helping you decide what is
best for your situation, they sell you something, whether it’s the best solution for your needs or not. Copple
Construction, llc does not use high-pressure sale tactics. We will help you sort through the options, so you can
choose what is best for you.
Owner
Copple Construction, llc is owned and operated by Kirk Copple, who has lived in the Springfield area for over 25
years. His work experience includes over twelve years in construction and eight years in corporate sales
management. He attended college at the University of South Carolina for a B.S. in Business Management. In
2004, he left his job as an electrician, returned to residential remodeling, and went into business for himself. Since
then he has completed hundreds of projects and satisfied every client.
He learned his trade from a lifetime of construction activities - from growing up in rural Nebraska and learning
from family in the building trades, to working under a master electrician, a few great carpenters, and a couple of
quality builders. He also has a thirst for knowledge which keeps him up to date on the latest advancements in
technology and techniques in the construction trade. This drive has also led to his completion of numerous
training and certification courses.
Licensing
Fairfax County Business License # –
Virginia DPOR Class B Contractor’s License # –
Contractor’s License Endorsements –
EPA Lead Certified Renovator Certificate # –
$2,000,000 General Liability Insurance
1006786
2705116134
Building
Electronic/Communication Service
R-I-18506-10-09799
-1-
Copple Construction,llc Remodeling Process
Initial Consultation
We meet at the worksite to take a look at the existing space, take measurements, and
to get a complete understanding of your project, vision and goals. The scope of work is
determined. A ballpark budget is discussed. Style and materials are discussed.
Initial Planning Meeting
We review an initial plan and budget. A preliminary scope of work for the project and
the budget is presented and reviewed. The Design Agreement is signed. We explore
design options with regular feedback and refinements until you are completely satisfied.
A comprehensive site survey of your home is performed. The product selections are
made. The design and budget is refined based on your input. An additional planning
meeting may be necessary and a time will be set for that meeting.
Final Design and Budget Review
This is where we finalize your project drawings, selections, and budget. Minor
refinements are made to the design. A plan is presented which outlines what you can
expect throughout the process. Start and completion dates are set. The Service
Agreement is signed.
Pre-Construction Meeting
After completing the behind-the-scenes preparations, like ordering materials,
coordinating helpers and sub-contractors, and obtaining permits. We will discuss the
job schedule, daily start and stop times, communication protocols, key client dates
(vacations, etc.), lockbox arrangements . . . an entire list of pre-construction items.
Construction
Your project begins on the scheduled start-date. You are kept informed throughout the
entire process. We work everyday to ensure quality work and a timely completion. You
and your home are treated professionally and conscientiously, and disruption is kept to
a minimum.
Finalize
The work is completed on time. A Final Walk-through is performed. The Final
Paperwork is presented, including all owners’ manuals and warranty information. Any
necessary adjustments are made for complete client satisfaction.
-2-
Kitchen Remodeling Basics
Levels of Remodeling
Surface Alterations – At the easy end of the scale, you may like
the general layout and size of the kitchen and the structure
supporting the kitchen (joists, walls, etc.) are sound. Just some
new paint, countertops, and appliances, can make some kitchens
look almost new again. The higher end of a Surface Alteration
remodel includes cabinet refinishing or refacing.
Complete Tear-Out/Remodel – If a more complete remodel is
needed, then usually the entire kitchen is removed down to the
studs and subfloor/joists. The moisture in kitchens can cause
damage to drywall, joists and studs. Sometimes this is apparent,
sometimes it isn’t. To ensure a longer-lasting remodel, it’s a good
idea to remove everything including the drywall, then fix any
damage that has occurred over the years. This can also uncover
leaking pipes and dangerous electrical situations. If the kitchen
was remodeled before the mid-1990’s then the electrical system is
out-of-date and at least 5 new circuits from the panel will be
needed.
Change Layout – Once completely removing everything in the
kitchen, there is a good opportunity to rearrange everything to a
more functional and comfortable layout. This includes moving the
appliances around, moving the kitchen sink, and moving doorways
or opening up walls.
Budget
After deciding what level of remodel your kitchen is in need of, a budget should be established. This should
include a budget for the products you pick out and for the labor and building materials. A Surface Alteration level
remodel could run as little as a couple of thousand dollars or over $10,000, for a standard 10’x12’ kitchen,
depending on which parts are updated. A Complete Remodel should run in the $12,000-20,000 range for labor
and building materials for the same size room. The products you pick out could run as little as $8000-12,000, but
could cost much more. Most of that expense is for cabinets and appliances. Changing the Layout may require
extra framing, plumbing, electrical, etc. and may add hundreds or thousands, depending on the changes. As part
of the budget, it is best to include an extra 10-20% for any hidden water damage or additional work that may be
needed. After the first few days of the project, when the demolition is finished, any additional work that is needed
or changes to the plans which are required, should be apparent.
For most homeowners, kitchen remodeling is the largest investment they will make aside from the home itself.
Many experts suggest that your kitchen should represent 10 to 20 percent of the fair-market value of your home.
So if your home would sell for about $300,000, then spend between $30,000 and $60,000 on your kitchen
improvements. If you spend less than 10 percent, the kitchen may not meet potential buyers’ expectations. If you
spend more than 20 percent, you’re less likely to make your money back at resale.
A kitchen remodel continues to be the interior home improvement project that increases your home's value the
most. According to the 2010-11 Cost vs. Value Report*, a minor kitchen remodel ties for the number 4 spot on the
top 10 list of home improvement projects in terms of return on investment. Most of the remaining projects in the
list are exterior replacements like an entry door or garage door, which tend to be less expensive projects than
kitchens and also fall into the "must-do" rather than "nice-to-do" category.
*The National Association of Realtors and Remodeling magazine 2010-11 Cost vs. Value Report
remodeling.hw.net/2010/costvsvalue/division/south-atlantic/city/washington--dc.aspx
-3-
Design and Product Selection
The next step in the planning stages for the kitchen remodel is to choose a design,
color palette, and start to pick out the products. The section of this manual on
Products will walk you through the order in which to choose everything. Depending
on the amount of time it takes to have the products delivered, they don’t all need to
be present before the start of construction. We will provide you with a timeline as
to when each of the products will need to be there. If you like, we can take care of
all of the product purchases and delivery, of the ones you choose. All of the
products will have to be picked out before the plans can be finalized.
Plans
Even for a small kitchen remodel, it is important to have graphical plans made.
There are so many items going into such a small place, that having plans with exact
measurements is important to ensure a completed kitchen that meets your vision.
Some interior designers offer very high quality 2D and 3D plans for you as part of
their services. Copple Construction, llc offers basic 2D CAD plans as part of our
design services. While plans may be made as part of the Design period, it’s
important to adjust the plans according to your product selections, before starting
construction.
Permits
Depending on the level of kitchen remodel, permits may be required. Permits can
be applied for after the plans are made and before the start of demolition. If
permits are required, then building, plumbing, electrical, and possibly other permits
may be required. Depending on the locality, you may be able to apply for some or
all of your own permits. Otherwise, the building contractor will get the building
permit, the plumber will get the plumbing permit, and the electrician will get the
electrical permit. These permits may take 1 day or over a month to get depending
on the locality. The permits must be posted where they can be seen from the
outside of the dwelling before any work can begin. Usually 2-3 inspections are
required during the remodel, before the drywall is installed and after everything is
completed. Sometimes there is an inspection after the demolition phase which is
required, as well. If permits are required and not applied for, then an inspector may
stop the work until permits are posted, may require some work be undone for an
inspection, and it will cost a couple of hundred dollars extra for the permits.
-4-
What to Expect
A Surface Alteration kitchen remodel may be completed in a week or two,
sometimes slightly longer. A Complete Tear-Out kitchen remodel with granite
countertops, custom cabinets, and floor tile normally runs 4-8 weeks, sometimes
longer for a larger kitchen or for a lot of tile work. This doesn’t include the time it
takes to special order items, like cabinets and countertops. If Changing the Layout,
then it may take an additional week or two. Sometimes additional work is required
to fix hidden damage. Occasionally, drywall outside the kitchen will need to be
repaired like in the ceiling below the kitchen, the opposite side of the kitchen walls,
or to install new plumbing or electric lines between the kitchen and utility room. We
will take care of all of this work and keep the amount necessary to a minimum.
While a kitchen bathroom can be completed in less time, it’s usually best to take the
proper amount of time to ensure a remodel that you will enjoy for years to come.
While each kitchen remodel is unique, a standard kitchen remodel goes through the following stages in this order:
Demolition and Removal of the Old Kitchen Appliances, Cabinets, Fixtures, Walls, Floors, etc.
Framing
Plumbing & Electrical Rough-in
Drywall and Paint
Floor Installation
Cabinet and Molding Installation
Backsplash Tile
Plumbing & Electrical Final (Fixture Installation)
Appliance Installation
Countertops
Accessory Installation, Caulk, Touch-up Paint, etc.
During the course of a remodel, we will keep you updated with the progress and any alterations to the plans which
are needed. For safety, we ask that you not enter the worksite during the course of the remodel without alerting
us. This will give us the chance to remove or let you know about any hazards or wet surfaces.
While we are careful to keep the dust and smells to a minimal level, there will be some extra dust and a variety of
different smells during the curing process of some materials. During the course of a Complete Kitchen Remodel,
2-5 tons of materials will be removed from the room and another 2-3 tons of materials installed. Keeping a clear,
well-protected path to the kitchen, from the exterior door, will aid in the speed of the remodel. A water source
outside the kitchen is required, such as a bathtub or mop sink (something in which a 5-gallon bucket can be
filled). A grounded electrical outlet outside the kitchen will also be required.
The demolition of the existing kitchen will be completed all at one time to aid in
containing and removing that dust. Any materials containing lead or asbestos will
be removed according to the law. We always attempt to use Low-VOC,
formaldehyde-free, and environmentally-friendly products to build your new
bathroom. Some people are especially sensitive to some smells/dusts which are
harmless to most people. If you have any known allergies or feel ill effects during
the course of the remodel, then let us know and we will go to whatever lengths
are necessary to reduce your exposure.
Hiring an Interior Designer
While we can walk anyone with a vision of what they want through the product selection, if you have the money
and want to have the best coordinated and functional kitchen, then the services of a licensed interior designer is
recommended. Their services can range from a simple consultation to help coordinate some of your own ideas,
to a full service product selection and design with 3D CAD drawings so you can be sure you will like the finished
kitchen. These services can run from about $500 to a few thousand dollars.
-5-
Design Styles
There are numerous design styles for kitchens. Here are some of the more common styles. You can get a full list
of styles and a description of each style, plus many more design ideas at www.kitchens.com
Traditional: A formal, elegant look characteristic of American and European homes of the 18th, 19th and early
20th centuries.
Design elements include:
• Crown and rope molding, fluting, corbels and other
ornamentation and trim
• Cabinets in cherry, walnut and mahogany
• Raised panel cabinet door styles
• Antique fixtures and appliances
• Wood, stone or other natural materials
Victorian: Elegance is the catchword when it comes to
Victorian kitchens. Cathedral arch doors and raised panels
come into play, accented by ornate molding and trim. Dark
and heavy woods are best when it comes to the cabinets.
Georgian: Formal is the catchword when designing a Georgian kitchen. Look to woods like cherry, walnut and
mahogany for your cabinets. Square panel raised doors are typical, as are heavy crown molding and stacked
cabinetry that reaches the ceiling. Black accents (such as a painted black island) are not uncommon.
Other traditional styles: Edwardian, Colonial, Farmhouse, Plantation, Regency, Cottage, Cape Cod, Estate,
Bungalow, Federal, Queen Anne, Neoclassical, Early American, Manor, Shaker
Contemporary: Tends to be described as modern, minimalist
and geometric. The characteristics include horizontal lines,
asymmetry and a lack of molding and other ornamentation. Materials
often are man-made rather than natural: stainless steel, laminate,
glass, concrete, chrome and lacquer.
Contemporary encompasses styles from the 1940s to the present,
with Europe—especially Italy, Germany and Scandinavia—leading
the way.
Design elements include:
• Frameless cabinets with oversized hardware
• Cabinet material: stainless steel; white or bold-colored laminate;
or subtly grained woods such as birch, ash or maple
• Cabinet door style: slab or horizontal lift-up
• Frosted glass inserts
• Stainless steel and other metallic accents
• Curved cabinets and counters
Contemporary styles: Art Moderne, Futurism, Functionalism, Modern, Post-Modern.
Transitional (Eclectic): Includes elements of both
traditional and contemporary design. Eclectic in nature, they
mix natural and man-made materials as well as finishes and
textures. Molding and fixtures aren't elaborate but do have
some ornamentation.
An Arts & Crafts or Shaker kitchen can be made transitional
rather than traditional by lightening the color palette, adding
bamboo flooring, and showcasing appliances rather than
hiding them behind wooden panels.
-6-
Country: Cheery and welcoming, with light and/or bright colors, painted and glazed cabinets, woven baskets,
floral motifs, and decorative shelving and molding.
Design elements include:
• Floral, checked, striped, gingham and plaid patterns
• Window and wall treatments in fabrics such as chintz
and calico
• Beadboard wainscoting and paneling
• Painted, glazed and distressed cabinet finishes
• Chicken wire or metal cabinet inserts
• Handmade, hand-forged, homespun look
• Antiques and flea-market finds
French Country: Framed cabinets in either raised or
recessed panels outfit a room with French country flair.
Cherry and oak cabinetry—glazed, distressed or pickled
for an authentic finish—reign supreme, though pastel painted cabinetry is also a wise choice. Decorative
shelving, the use of beadboard, a butler’s wall or pantry and plate racks will add to the genuine French
Country feel.
English Country: Slightly more proper than French country, English country style relies on a square cabinet
design accented by curves. To maintain a handcrafted look, light or natural cabinets in pine or oak are
prevalent. A sizable wooden mantle range hood, wood cutouts in valances, and intricate crown and rope
molding add authenticity.
Farmhouse: The words “wood” and “heirloom” should guide your decorative decisions when creating a farmhouse
kitchen. Stained wood, both light and dark, fit in well, though excessive glazing and finishing can create a look
that’s a little too complicated.
Cottage: Consider driftwood-like finishes for a seaside cottage feel. If you’re leaning more toward a lake look, a
slightly darker (but still natural and wooden) cabinet is your best bet.
Other Country Styles: Tuscan Country, Swedish Country, Garden
Old World: With their large cooking hearths or grottos and
distressed, unfitted cabinets—trace their look to pre-17th century
Europe. Often painted, the raised panel cabinetry should feature
elements like cracking, beadboard, dish and cup racks, valence
legs, flushed toes, and bun feet.
Design elements include:
• Furniture-look cabinetry
• Stone walls and/or floors
• Pewter or copper accents
• Mosaic tiles
• Brick or plaster walls
• Deep, rich colors
• Appliances hidden behind panels
Tuscan: With a softer, more feminine design, Tuscan kitchens rely
on natural materials. While the cabinets are often painted in
whites, creams or earth-tone yellows or browns, they tend to
be monochromatic.
Other Old World Styles: Italian Villa, French Chateau, Normandy
cottage, Dutch cottage, medieval, Gothic, Mediterranean,
Castle
-7-
Kitchen Design Ideas that Enlarge
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Lighter Colors: Light colors make areas look larger. Pale, cool colors reflect light. Look for soft
shades of white and off white, as well as pastels to make a small kitchen look larger. If you use wallpaper,
choose a light airy shade with a small pattern. Paint the ceiling white or a lighter tint of the same color.
Another way to raise your ceiling is to draw the eye upward with wallpaper border or molding where the
wall meets the ceiling.
Camouflage: Adjoining objects of the same color blend into one another. Paint walls, woodwork, trim,
cabinets, counters, and doors in the same color to make them appear as one.
Mirrors: As Alice in Wonderland found, a mirror can look like another room. Large mirrors can make
your small kitchen seem almost twice the size it is.
Windows: Kitchen windows let in light. Keep window treatments minimal. Use mini blinds that can be
raised out of sight when not needed. Another privacy option is to cover the lower half of a window with
sheer fabric, leaving the top half uncovered.
Accessorize Boldly: With so many neutral, pale tones, your small kitchen may look boring and
bland. When everything else is done, look at your accessories. Add bold touches of color with other
accessories. Expand the sense of space with open shelves, pot racks, and glass-front doors.
Style: The style of your small kitchen can make it look larger. Country and Victorian styles tend to look
small and cluttered. Sleek, contemporary lines give a sense of openness and space. Sleek and
contemporary style – pale, cool colors make a small kitchen look larger.
Storage and Organization: Take advantage of all the new storage options now available. Go all
the way to the ceiling with your upper cabinets to gain valuable space for seldom used items and make
lower cabinets more accessible with rollout shelves, lazy susans, and tilt-out bins. Add depth to your
drawer storage and your cabinet layout with pullout wicker baskets. If you aren't replacing cabinets, get
more from your existing ones accessories such as tray dividers; lazy susan partitions and storage
containers; and chrome-plated backsplash systems with cookbook holders, spice racks and wire baskets.
Clutter will make any area look smaller. Whatever your small kitchen style, it will look larger with minimal
clutter. Organize things into cupboards, leaving out only what is absolutely necessary or cannot be put
away.
Lighting: Good task lighting becomes even more crucial in a small space. Place lights under the
cabinets to illuminate the countertops. Bring in more natural light by taking down window treatments,
adding skylights in the ceiling, and installing a greenhouse window over the sink.
Appliance Selection & Location: Thoughtful placement and selection of your appliances can
greatly improve traffic flow in a small kitchen. Save counter space by building the microwave into the
cabinetry and by installing a range or placing a separate cooktop over an oven. An appliance garage or
pantry can keep toasters, can openers, and other small appliances hidden and out of the way when not in
use. Choose sleekly styled appliance models to reduce visual distractions and contribute to a streamlined
look. Don’t assume that you have to sacrifice the power and design statement of a professional-style
range. Viking and Bertazzoni offer 24-inch-wide gas ranges specifically for smaller kitchens, apartments,
condos, and vacation homes. Another great new space-saving idea is KitchenAid’s Briva, a double sink
with one side convertible to a dishwasher. Remove the rack, and you’ve got a second fully functional sink.
Take Down a Wall: If you're willing to explore changing the floor plan, the best way to expland a
small kitchen is to literally open it up to an adjoining room, typically a family or dining room. Consult a
professional to see if there is a non-load-bearing wall or two that can be removed, creating the space to
add an island or peninsula. Or you could cut a rectangular hole in an adjoining wall, creating extra counter
space for convenient serving and conversation.
Inspiration Gallery
NKBA Inspiration Gallery – nkba.org/Dream.aspx
HGTV Designers Portfolio – hgtv.com/designers-portfolio/kitchens/index.html
Kitchens.com Gallery – kitchens.com/photos.aspx
Kitchen Style Quiz – kitchens.com/design/kitchen-styles/whats-my-style-quiz.aspx
NKBA Kitchen Trends for 2011 – http://www.kitchenbathdesign.com/print/Kitchen-and-Bath-Design-News/NKBAIdentifies-Growing-Trends-for-2011/2$5739
-8-
Design Guidelines
NKBA Guidelines
The National Kitchen and Bath Association has developed a list of guidelines to ensure that your kitchen is
functional. No one wants a brand-new kitchen with appliance doors that bump into cabinet doors, or an island so
close to the wall that it can’t be used for dining. Good space planning will help you develop the best layout for
your kitchen. Designed to maximize safety and functionality in home kitchens, the guidelines represent ideal
layout solutions to kitchen concerns from storage space to door clearance. It’s ok if budget limitations and the
constraints of an existing kitchen require some compromises and tradeoffs: The only rules you must follow are
building codes.
Door/Entry: A doorway should be at least 32 inches wide.
Door Interference: No entry door should interfere with appliances, nor should appliance doors interfere with one
another.
Distance Between Work Centers: In a kitchen with three work centers*, the sum of the distances between them
should total no more than 26 feet. No leg of the work triangle should measure less than 4 feet nor more
than 9 feet. When the kitchen includes additional work centers, each additional distance should measure
no less than 4 feet nor more than 9 feet. No work triangle leg should intersect an island or peninsula by
more than 12 inches.
* The distances between the three primary work centers (cooking, cleanup/prep and refrigeration) form a
work triangle.
Separating Work Centers: A full-height, full-depth, tall obstacle [i.e. a pantry cabinet or refrigerator] should not
separate two primary work centers.
Work Triangle Traffic: No major traffic patterns should cross through the work triangle.
Work Aisle: The width of a work aisle should be at least 42 inches for one cook and at least 48 inches for
multiple cooks.
Walkway: The width of a walkway should be at least 36 inches.
Traffic Clearance at Seating: In a seating area where no traffic passes behind a seated diner, allow 32 inches of
clearance from the counter/table edge to any wall or other obstruction behind the seating area. If traffic
passes behind the seated diner, allow at least 36 inches to edge past or at least 44 inches to walk past.
Seating Clearance: Kitchen seating areas should incorporate at least the following clearances: At 30-inch-high
tables/counters, allow a 24-inch-wide by 18-inch-deep knee space for each seated diner. At 36-inch-high
counters, allow a 24-inch-wide by 15-inch-deep knee space. At 42-inch-high counters, allow a 24-inchwide by 12-inch-deep knee space.
Cleanup/Prep Sink Placement: If a kitchen has only one sink, locate it adjacent to or across from the cooking
surface
and refrigerator.
Cleanup/Prep Sink Landing Area: Include at least a 24-inch-wide landing area to one side of the sink and at
least an18-inch-wide landing area on the other side.
Preparation/Work Area: Include a section of continuous countertop at least 36 inches wide and 24 inches deep
immediately next to a sink.
Dishwasher Placement: Locate nearest edge of the primary dishwasher within 36 inches of the nearest edge of
a sink. Provide at least 21 inches of standing space between the edge of the dishwasher and countertop
frontage, appliances and/or cabinets placed at a right angle to the dishwasher.
Waste Receptacles: Include at least two waste receptacles. Locate one near the sink(s) and a second for
recycling in the kitchen or nearby.
Auxiliary Sink: At least 3 inches of countertop frontage should be provided on one side of the auxiliary sink and
18 inches on the other side.
Refrigerator Landing Area: Include at least 15 inches of landing area on the handle side of the refrigerator or 15
inches of landing area on either side of a side-by-side refrigerator or 15 inches of landing area no more
than 48 inches across from the front of the refrigerator or 15 inches of landing area above or adjacent to
any undercounter refrigeration appliance.
Cooking Surface Landing Area: Include a minimum of 12 inches of landing area on one side of a cooking
surface and 15 inches on the other side. In an island or peninsula, the countertop should also extended a
minimum of 9 inches behind the cooking surface.
-9-
Cooking Surface Clearance: Allow 24 inches of clearance between the cooking surface and a protected
noncombustible surface [ex: a range hood] above it. At least 30 inches of clearance is required between
the cooking surface and an unprotected/combustible surface [ex: cabinetry] above it. If a microwave hood
is used, then the manufacturer’s specifications should be followed.
Cooking Surface Ventilation: Provide a correctly sized, ducted ventilation system for all cooking surface
appliances; the recommended minimum is 150 CFM.
Cooking Surface Safety: Do not locate the cooking surface under an operable window. Window treatments
above the cooking surface should not use flammable materials. A fire extinguisher should be located near
the exit of the kitchen away from cooking equipment.
Microwave Oven Placement: The ideal location for the bottom of the microwave is 3 inches below the principle
user’s shoulder but no more than 54 inches above the floor. If the microwave is below the countertop the
bottom must be at least 15 inches off the finished floor.
Microwave Landing Area: Provide at least a 15-inch landing area above, below or adjacent to the handle side of
a microwave.
Oven Landing Area: Include at least a 15-inch landing area next to or above the oven. At least a 15-inch landing
area not more than 48 inches across from the oven is acceptable if the appliance does not open into a
walkway.
Combining Landing Areas: If two landing areas are adjacent, determine a new minimum by taking the longer of
the two landing area requirements and adding 12 inches.
Countertop Space: A total of 158 inches of countertop frontage, 24 inches deep, with at least 15 inches of
clearance above, is needed to accommodate all uses.
Countertop Edges: Specify clipped or round corners rather than sharp edges.
Storage: The total shelf/drawer frontage is: 1,400 inches for a small kitchen (150 square feet or less); 1,700
inches for a medium kitchen (151 to 350 square feet); and 2,000 inches for a large kitchen (351 square
feet or more).
The recommended distribution for the shelf/drawer frontage is:
Small
Medium
Large
Wall
300 in.
360 in.
360 in.
Base
520 in.
615 in.
660 in.
Drawer
360 in.
400 in.
525 in.
Pantry
180 in.
230 in.
310 in.
Misc.
40 in.
95 in.
145 in.
Storage at Cleanup/Prep Sink: Of the total recommended shelf/drawer frontage, the following should be located
within 72 inches of the centerline of the main cleanup/prep sink: at least 400 inches for a small kitchen; at
least 480 inches for a medium kitchen; and at least 560 inches for a large kitchen.
Corner Cabinet Storage: At least one corner cabinet should include a functional storage device. This does not
apply if there are no corner cabinets.
Electrical Receptacles: GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) protection is required on all receptacles servicing
countertop surfaces.
Lighting: Every work surface should be well-illuminated by appropriate task lighting.
The Work Triangle
The dominant geometric shapes in most kitchens are the four-sided variety,
from rectangular cabinetry to square appliances. But it is a triangle—albeit an
imaginary one—that has always been an important element of a kitchen’s
design and functionality.
The “work triangle” is defined by the National Kitchen and Bath Association
as an imaginary straight line drawn from the center of the sink, to the center
of the cooktop, to the center of the refrigerator and finally back to the sink.
The NKBA suggests these guidelines for work triangles:
• The sum of the work triangle’s three sides should not exceed 26 feet, and each leg should measure
between 4 and 9 feet.
• The work triangle should not cut through an island or peninsula by more than 12 inches.
• If the kitchen has only one sink, it should be placed between or across from the cooking surface,
preparation area, or refrigerator.
• No major traffic patterns should cross through the triangle.
- 10 -
Efficiency is the triangle’s main goal, as it keeps all the major work stations near the cook, without placing them so
close that the kitchen becomes cramped. The work triangle is also designed to minimize traffic within the kitchen
so the cook isn’t interrupted or interfered with.
Here are some examples of standard kitchen layouts with their work triangle:
The work triangle isn’t without its flaws though. The layouts above illustrate one of its problems: It assumes that a
kitchen will only have three major work stations and one person cooking. As kitchens grow in size, and feature
more than three workspaces, the regular work triangle isn’t always practical. And in many households today, two
or more people share cooking duties. Because of these issues,
designers do not always play by the triangle’s rules when it comes to
drafting kitchen plans.
With many of the kitchen designs,
there is more than one work triangle in
it. If you can’t configure the standard
triangle, you have to make do by
creating the most functional kitchen
possible.
Remember, your lifestyle should
determine the functionality of your
kitchen, not the other way around. The work triangle is not a law, merely a
suggestion. Although it can be a helpful tool, don’t let it inhibit you from thinking
outside the triangle when it comes to designing your kitchen.
The Basics of Kitchen Zones
Think of zone design as an expansion upon, rather than a replacement for, the classic work triangle approach to
kitchen design and layout. It's a practical (and increasingly popular) way to group kitchen activities together in
appropriately organized spaces, allowing for multiple cooks and work centers.
While the work triangle focuses on the positioning of the range, refrigerator and sink, zone design addresses the
full scope of appliances, plumbing fixtures and gadgets available to today's homeowners. It also considers the
many activities—entertaining, doing homework, charging cell phones and more—that occur in the kitchen, as well
as the fact that kitchen size is growing and floor plans are more open to the rest of the home.
But don't fret if you don't have a kitchen large enough to house a distinct area for every activity: few people do.
Prep, cooking and cleanup areas are the primary zones, and they're mandatory. All other zones (baking,
beverage and communication centers, for example) are not necessary and therefore called auxiliary zones. By
combining some zones into one area or eliminating zones that don't fit into your layout and lifestyle, you can make
your kitchen multi-task just like you do.
A few tips:
• Prep and cleanup zones combine well; Baking and cooking zones combine well.
• Islands can host multiple zones with ease.
• Consider adding just one element of an auxiliary zone—a key appliance or critical storage cabinet—to a
primary zone.
- 11 -
Cooking and Cleaning Centers
Cooking
Always a hot place to be, the cooking zone is where fire enters the picture. Centered around the range or
cooktop, this is the spot where stir-frys, spaghetti, and sauces sizzle. You may want to keep your microwave and
toaster oven here as well. Include:
• Deep drawers for pans
• Shallower drawer for pot lids
• Spice drawer (or cleverly hidden racks in pull out corbels that flank the cooktop)
• Microwave cabinet for concealing and saving countertop space
• Utensil drawer for spatulas and spoons
Cleaning
Anchored by your sink and dishwasher, the cleaning area is the home of water and washing. Be sure to keep
“water dependent products” like your coffeemaker and salad spinner nearby. You’ll also be emptying the last bits
of lasagna and soup into containers here, so keep storage supplies nearby. Include space for an adequate
number of cleaning and drying supplies, as well as a convenient way to store clean dishware. Include:
• Pullout rack to neatly tuck dishtowels
• Plate rack for storing daily or occasional dinnerware
• Undersink pullout for dishwashing detergent and cleaner
• Tilt out sink tray for sponges and scrubbers
• Foil box rack or drawer for aluminum foil, paper, and plastic wrap storage
• Pullout drawer for Tupperware, divided for lids and containers
Don’t forget about the “dining zone.” Though there’s a lot more flexibility involved with designing your eating area,
consider adding easily accessible storage for tablecloths, placemats, napkins, or infrequently used china.
Food Prep and Baking Centers
Food Prep
This is where it all begins: In the food prep zone, you slice and dice your way toward dinner. If your kitchen is
spacious enough to accommodate an island, the food prep zone would be well-placed there. It’s helpful to include
a second sink for rinsing fruits and vegetables, as well as a refrigerator drawer for storing milk and eggs if your
main refrigerator isn’t easily accessible. Include:
• Butcher block pullout (if you aren’t working on a butcher block surface)
• Drawer for knives
• Pullouts for mixing, measuring and serving items
• Pullout trash center
Baking
The area built for fun, the baking zone is where cookies, breads, and casseroles come to life. Aside from the
appropriate countertop space and material (marble slabs work best for rolling dough), you’ll need to keep a
number of supplies within easy reach. Include:
• Apothecary drawers for storing small items like cookie cutters
• Bins for flour and sugar
• Tray divider rollout for baking sheets and pizza pans
• Pulldown cookbook rack
• Drawers for rolling pins, measuring cups, and teaspoons
• Easy-to-reach cabinet space for heavy casserole dishes and mixing bowls
• Storage for oven mitts, pot holders, and trivets
• Divided utensil storage for spatulas and wooden spoons
• Pop-up stand for your mixer
- 12 -
7 Standard Kitchen Shapes
1 wall
Typically found in small homes, the one-wall kitchen works by keeping
all appliances, cooking tools and ingredients within easy reach. It can
even be hidden behind sliding or pocket doors to minimize visual
clutter in a small, open space such as a studio apartment. As shown
here, the sink often sits between the range and refrigerator, a
convenient location for cleanup. This design also offers counter space
on both sides of the range, which is an important code and safety consideration.
Unfortunately, the sink, range and refrigerator still take up a fair amount of counter space, so finding enough work
room for food prep can be a challenge, as is having two cooks use the space. In a truly tiny one-wall kitchen,
compact appliances such as a 24-inch range or 24-inch refrigerator can add some counter space while also
providing more room for cabinet storage. Using the dining table or a movable island for additional work space is
another common solution.
In fact, these days a one-wall kitchen with a built-in cabinetry island
across from it has become a popular layout even in homes that aren't
small, but that have open floor plans. Think loft-style condos or
Southern-style long, narrow houses. Adding the island adds some of
the efficiency of a galley layout without closing off the kitchen.
Galley
The galley kitchen is perhaps the most efficient of all kitchens when it
comes to the original and primary use of the kitchen: cooking. After
all, this layout takes its name from the galley, or kitchen, of a ship or
airplane. Many restaurant and other commercial kitchens are
designed in similar fashion, with cooks working in a long, narrow
space between appliances and counter space.
But what works in a commercial kitchen has some drawbacks in a home. The galley layout doesn't have room for
a dining area, and it limits interaction with guests and with family, which can make a home cook feel like "you're
trotting out the plate like you're catering".
A galley kitchen that is open on both sides as shown, rather than just on one end, helps to bring in more light and
create a feeling of connection to the rest of the home. A decorative range hood and glass-front upper cabinets
also prevent the kitchen from feeling closed in, while having the cooktop and sink located on the same wall keeps
the messiest part of the kitchen close to the cleanup area.
U Shaped
Like the one-wall and galley floor plans, a U-shaped layout is an
efficient kitchen designed for one primary cook. Basically a wide
galley kitchen with one end closed off, it keeps onlookers out of the
main work area while remaining open to other rooms of the home
and allowing traffic to pass.
Problems with the traditional U-shaped kitchen typically arise due to
its small size. For one, it doesn't offer room for a kitchen table and
chairs. Secondly, depending on where the sink is situated, it may be
impossible to fit the dishwasher right next to it.
To address the seating issue, you can try, as shown here, a passthrough to the dining room on one of the "legs" of the U. Another
option is to turn that leg into a peninsula by eliminating the wall and
the upper cabinets. The peninsula counter can then be used for eating, homework or paying bills. Of course, that
method also eliminates a significant amount of storage space.
Moving the refrigerator out of the main U shape can give you more food and cookware storage near the rangetop
and ovens. Adding a kitchen island may seem like the obvious choice, but be careful: Most older U-shaped
kitchens don't have room for one. Industry guidelines recommend at least 3½ feet between the island and
surrounding cabinets and appliances so that doors can open properly and people can maneuver safely.
- 13 -
U Shaped with Island
Adding an island to a U-shaped layout increases the kitchen's
functionality as well as its interactivity. Whether the island is used for a
work surface, seating, the sink or the cooktop (as shown), the cook can
now get work done while facing out of the kitchen, allowing for
conversations and the ability to keep an eye on family activities. In fact,
adding an island also makes it much easier for a second cook to help
with meal preparation and cleanup.
If you have the space to add an island to your U-shaped kitchen,
there's a good chance you also have the room to let the kitchen extend
a bit beyond the "U." If you have a wall opposite the main area of the
kitchen, you could use it for pantry storage, a built-in desk, a bar, or a
"kids' zone" where children can use the microwave and store their
snacks.
What's not to like about this layout? Some people still prefer a more
open floor plan that allows for even more people to mingle and work in
the kitchen. Others may find it annoying to carry plates and food
around the leg of the U rather than having a straight shot to the dining
room or the back yard.
G Shaped
The G-shaped kitchen layout is essentially a pumped-up version of the
U-shaped layout. It's best suited to those who want to pack every
square inch of kitchen possible into their space but don't have room for
the clearance required around an island.
Instead, a fourth leg is attached to one side of the U at a right or
obtuse angle. Typically this fourth leg is a peninsula, because having a
wall and upper cabinets would nearly close off the kitchen from the rest
of the home.
Make sure the peninsula is not so long that getting in and out of the
kitchen becomes difficult. Essentially this area is a work aisle, not a
walkway, so a width of 4 feet would be ideal. At the same time, don't
make the peninsula so short that it can't offer enough room to seat a
few guests or contain an appliance—or both, like the cooktop and
breakfast bar shown here. This fourth leg is what makes the G-shaped
layout—unlike the U-shaped layout—workable for multiple cooks.
L Shaped
With the increase in great rooms and loft-style living and the decline of
the formal dining room, open floor plans and L-shaped kitchens have
become very popular. As you would expect, this layout consists of two
adjacent, perpendicular walls. It can range in size from small to large,
depending on the length of the legs–but without a dividing wall
between the kitchen and living area, the legs could be long indeed.
People who like to entertain will appreciate this layout's ability to
incorporate multiple cooks, invite guests into the cooking area and
allow for mingling and conversation during a family dinner or a cocktail
party. However, without an island, the cooks are still facing away from
the activities while working.
To turn the room into an eat-in kitchen, you'll probably want a good old-fashioned table and chairs. The best part
about that: Unlike most islands with seating on just one side (what some designers compare to "frogs on a log"),
everyone can face each other throughout the meal. Besides, the tabletop can be used as a work surface, too.
- 14 -
L Shaped with Island
For maximum flexibility in cooking, entertaining and hanging out, an Lshaped kitchen with an island is the way to go. This set-up lends itself
to a zoned approach to kitchen planning rather than the more
traditional work triangle approach.
The L-shaped kitchen shown here has three distinct zones, with
enough space between them to avoid collisions and catastrophes. On
the right leg, the sink and dishwasher create a clean-up station. On the
left leg, the range with griddle and the adjacent wall oven and
microwave comprise an impressive cooking zone. The island, with its
under-counter wine cellar and raised bar top, makes a great place for
casual dining or drinks. It can even encompass a fourth zone when
necessary, as the lower counter provides an extra surface for prep
work (and he upper level conveniently hides the mess).
Some people prefer to have the cooktop on the island. "I don't like
having my back toward anyone," says Scott Gottlich, executive chef of Bijoux Restaurant in Dallas. "I'd I rather be
seeing out while I'm cooking and have a conversation." His home kitchen features an L-shaped layout with two
islands: a center island with a cooktop and a multi-level bar island on the outside. He enjoys this floor plan both
for entertaining family and friends and for spending time cooking and connecting with his son.
Surfaces
When it comes to countertops, organization toes a fine line. Though clutter can make food preparation difficult,
completely bare countertops are often impractical. Don’t get rid of everything—storing frequently used small
appliances can turn into a daily headache.
Just as with cabinets, the important rule to remember is that the rules are bendable. By extending the depth of
your countertops from 24” to 30”, you’ll find yourself with plenty of room for both appliances and food prep. If 30”
base cabinets are too deep for you, bump the cabinets out 6” from the wall—your designer will be able to mask
the dead space.
Your options for storage solutions include:
• Mount narrow shelf along the backsplash to store small, frequently used items like spices or timers.
• Opt for appliance garages to store toasters and blenders out of sight, or keep them in a corner or along the
wall.
• Select a butcher block area with a cutout hole. Locate a trash container underneath to quickly discard scraps.
• Store spoons and stirrers in a ceramic crock on your counter for easy access.
• Install a pullout cutting board in an opening just below the countertop to maximize workspace.
• Want utterly bare countertops? Make sure you have the correct drawer storage as a substitute for countertop
placement (i.e. a place for knives near your cutting board).
Add Storage Along Walls
Don’t ignore your backsplash and wall space—use them creatively,
and you’ll find yourself with creative and stylish storage solutions.
Your options for storage solutions include:
• Mount a cookbook holder to your wall to keep recipes at eye
level—and away from counters filled with bowls and ingredients.
• Make overflowing drawers a thing of the past with a backsplash
storage system, perfect for hanging cooking utensils.
• Hang a pot rack over your island or install one on your wall—just
make sure your pots and pans are near your cooking space.
• A decorative wine rack can add a gourmet flair to your wall, but
make sure the wine doesn’t sit for too long.
- 15 -
Other Design Considerations
Green Remodeling Ideas for Your Kitchen
A well-designed, attractive kitchen gives a home life. All that
liveliness, though, is probably the single biggest energy drain in your
home. Lighting, refrigeration and cooking are responsible for 41.5
percent of a home's energy consumption, according to U.S.
Department of Energy estimates. Add to that regular kitchen
activities like water heating, plus space heating and cooling, and you
begin to get the picture of how critical the kitchen really is.
When you're remodeling, the kitchen presents a big opportunity to
improve the home's energy performance. Broadening the scope of
your project to include energy efficiency, ecological benefits,
accessibility and health considerations will provide long-term cost
savings, comfort, peace of mind and safety.
Here are 12 high-impact ideas for creating a "green" kitchen:
Kitchen Recycling Center
Available pre-assembled or in cabinet retrofit kits, kitchen recycling centers take the mess out of managing
your recyclables. These modified cabinets can accommodate any kitchen style and cabinet size, and are
available in a full range of cabinet materials.
Eco-Friendly Flooring
Products manufactured from rapidly renewing forests can provide you with a beautiful, affordable and durable
floor—and an environmentally responsible choice. Bamboo, cork, and eucalyptus mature in roughly half the
time (or less) that it takes hardwoods, grown in colder climates, to reach market size.
Stained Concrete or Indigenous Stone Countertops
Use materials that are durable and water-resistant for both counters and backsplashes. Stained concrete
uses non-toxic, natural pigments rather than surface-applied stains. There is also the option of adding other
recycled materials into the mixture. Many types of indigenous stone are available and can come from salvage
and remnants. Make sure they are well sealed to prevent staining. Keep seams in counter top surface
material at least 2 feet away from the sink and out of heavily used areas.
Air Admittance Valves
These pressure-activated, one-way mechanical valves are installed in plumbing drainlines in place of throughthe-roof pipe venting. They operate with the discharge of wastewater, just like conventional plumbing vents.
By eliminating piping and flashing, there is a net savings after the initial investment of $25 to $40. And they're
durable.
Wall Insulation
Nothing improves the comfort and energy efficiency of a kitchen more than plenty of insulation in the exterior
walls. To add insulation to existing homes, blow fibrous insulation material—fiberglass or natural materials like
cellulose and mineral wool—into enclosed wall, floor and roof cavities. "Dense packing" the insulation inhibits
air circulation within the cavities, thereby eliminating a major cause of condensation, moisture problems and
air leakage.
Energy-Efficient Windows, Doors and Skylights
Well-designed windows and skylights can lighten the feel of a kitchen. Energy Star-qualified products lighten
the burden of energy bills as well. Homeowners can find greater comfort and significant savings—ranging
from $110 to $400 a year—by replacing single-pane windows with Energy Star-qualified windows. These
products use low-e glass with solar shading, which increases the room's comfort, protects items from sun
damage and reduces condensation on windows.
Energy-Efficient Task Lighting and Lighting Controls
Maximize natural lighting and provide task lighting. Lighting controls range from a simple outdoor light fixture with
a built-in photosensor to whole-house programmable controls that allow fixtures to perform as task, safety or
mood lighting. The cost of a control can often be offset by the first year's energy savings.
- 16 -
Energy-Efficient Appliances
When buying a refrigerator, dishwasher or vent fan for your kitchen renovation, remember that it will have two
price tags: what you pay to take it home and what you pay for the energy and water it uses. Energy Starqualified appliances incorporate advanced technologies that use 10 to 50 percent less energy and water than
standard models.
Low-VOC Kitchen Cabinets
Consider resurfacing or refacing existing cabinets. Cabinets that are made with particleboard or fiberboard
are likely to contain urea formaldehyde and are not resistant to moisture. However, sealing them with lowVOC (volatile organic compounds) paint or stain or laminating with a new surface will seal the substrates.
If buying new cabinets, you have a few green options. Some solid wood cabinet lines have low-VOC
emissions. Laminates and thermofoil cabinets can seal in VOCs contained in substrates. You also can look at
cabinets made from agricultural fiber panels such as wheatboard and strawboard. Made from plant stems and
sustainable binders, these materials are a good choice for areas that will not be subjected to wetting.
Low-VOC Paints and Finishes
Many paints and finishes contain high levels of VOCs that produce potentially harmful gasses when applied.
The VOCs diminish air quality and may be detrimental to your health. Today, low- and no-VOC paints are
available almost anywhere. They release no or minimal VOC pollutants, and are virtually odor free. This
improves the indoor air quality of the home, making it particularly safer for people with chemical sensitivity.
Also, latex paints use water as their solvent and carrier, allowing both easier cleanup and generally lower
toxicity.
Mold-Resistant Gypsum or Cement Board
Mold growth requires moisture and a food source. To improve moisture resistance, some gypsum board
manufacturers have developed products with paperless coatings and gypsum cores. To reduce the risk of
mold, a number of manufacturers chemically treat the paper on both sides of the gypsum board, while others
eliminate the paper entirely and replace it with a gypsum-cellulose combination. Mold-resistant wall panels
help maintain good indoor air quality while reducing the probability of costly replacement or remediation.
Induction Cooktop
Induction cooking uses electricity to produce a magnetic field that that reacts with the ferric content in
stainless steel, cast iron, and enameled steel cookware, exciting the molecules and producing heat. The
cookware (and therefore the food) gets hot, but the stovetop doesn't. Less heat is wasted and the food heats
faster, saving time and energy. Induction cooking is about 90 percent energy efficient as compared to gas and
electric radiant, which are 50 to 60 percent efficient. Induction cooking is relatively new to the mass
marketplace and currently retails at a premium.
Feng Shui
Feng shui (pronounced fung shway) concerns the art of placement—
arranging your home in a way that enhances its good energy, or, Ch’i
(pronounced chee). Translating to “wind and water,” feng shui is a Chinese
discipline first used by royals some 15 centuries ago to harness the land’s
positive energy and bring wealth to the kingdom.
A city constructed on ground that carried positive Ch’i would find its people
nourished, while burying an emperor in a place of negative Ch’i would cause
catastrophe. From this tradition, feng shui later found its way into the general
population as a guide for selecting home plots.
Today, feng shui has entered the homes of the Western world. Have you ever rearranged your couch or moved a
vase of flowers from your table to the counter and felt like you were in a new, refreshed room? That change in
mood, energy, sensation—all components of Ch’i—owes itself to placement, the basis of feng shui.
The kitchen is one of the most important rooms in the home for generating good Ch’i. Food nourishes us, leading
to improved health, which allows us to work harder and achieve greater prosperity. Because food preparation
occurs in the kitchen, the room’s Ch’i affects your food and, in turn, your overall well-being.
Small changes, such as freeing your space of distracting clutter and using a round dining table (to best circulate
mealtime Ch’i), can improve your happiness and functionality within your culinary corner, which, according to feng
shui, will bring wealth and health to you and your family.
- 17 -
Feng shui masters spend their lives studying the discipline, aligning themselves with various approaches such as
black hat sect, traditional, or intuitive feng shui. But you can make instant design improvements with our quick and
easy feng shui tips for your kitchen:
Layout
•
•
•
The cook’s back should never face the kitchen entrance. If the cook is unaware of who enters and exists,
he or she could be startled, transferring negative Ch’i into the food. Place the cooktop on an island so the
cook can face the door. If the cook’s back must turn away from the entrance, hang a mirror on the
backsplash or place a reflective object (like a tea kettle or a stainless steel utensil holder) on or beside the
stove. This will allow the cook to remain aware of all activity.
The stove should not be placed under a window. Wind currents could pull the good Ch’i out of your food.
Elements of fire and water clash, leading to bad Ch’i. Design your kitchen with distance between the
two—your stove should not be adjacent to your refriuigerator or sink. If such a placement is unavoidable,
add a nourishing wood element—like a plant, butcher block, or wooden spoon—to turn the opposition into
a cyclical relationship.
Organization
•
•
•
•
•
•
Pay attention to your stove. Food nourishes you, affecting your ability to work and earn money, and the
Ch’i of your cooking area will affect your meal. Keep the burners clean and use each one equally to
illustrate the movement of good fortune in your life.
Clutter crowds your kitchen’s surfaces, causing frustration and inihibiting the cook’s ability to prepare
food. Keep all surfaces clear, storing all food and appliances not used on a daily basis out of sight.
Apply the same order to your pantry and cabinets. Broken items, empty boxes and containers, and
unused food should be donated or discarded.
Keep trash and recycling centers out of sight. Garbage rarely signifies health and prosperity!
Don’t forget safety, an important component of feng shui. Knives should always be stored out of sight.
Nourishment is as much a product of the cook as the food itself. The cook’s focus and spirits are
transferred to the food. Make every effort to structure your kitchen (and your life!) in a way that facilitates
a relaxed, leisurely, and meditative cooking process.
Decorating
•
•
•
•
•
Plentiful food indicates prosperity. Hang pictures of fruits or vegetables on your kitchen’s walls to increase
the sensation of abundance. Mirrors by your eating area, stove, or preparation will “double” your food as
well, increasing wealth and health.
Surround yourself with meaningful things with positive Ch’i. Keep seashells gathered during a special
family vacation on your windowsill, or display fresh flowers in an antique vase.
Remember—negative feelings and events tarnish the quality of your life. As a “feng shui rule of thumb,”
surround yourself with whatever makes you comfortable and safe.
Sharp corners can be both unsafe and uncomfortable, Choose rounded corners over squared ones for
tables, countertops, and chairs. Select wood over pointed glass tables. Hide and protect existing corners
with plants and cushions.
When selecting your dining table, choose a softer, safer wood model over a pointed glass one. Oval and
round tables are preferred over square and rectangular ones as they promote good Ch’i circulation.
Source: The Western Guide to Feng Shui: Room By Room, by Terah Kathryn Collins
- 18 -
Product Options
After choosing the style for the kitchen, it’s time to choose all of the products. Start by choosing which items you
want to stand out and accent the kitchen. Choose these products first, then choose the other products so they
coordinate. Since many of the products you choose will affect other choices, here is a good order in which to
choose those items:
1.
Cabinets and Moldings
2.
Flooring
3.
Appliances
4.
Countertops & Backsplash
5.
Sink & Sink Faucet
6.
Paint Colors
7.
Lights / Fan
8.
Accessories – Small Appliances, Spick Rack, Towel Bar, etc.
Cabinet Types and Construction
In framed (or face-frame) cabinetry, wood joinery
holds the parts together. This American-style cabinet
attaches a 1 ½” wide x ¾” thick frame to the front of
the cabinet box. Horizontal rails and vertical stiles
secure the door to the box. Hinges attach the door to
the face frame.
In frameless cabinetry, thicker side panels keep the
cabinet rigid without the use of a front frame. Special
hardware fittings secure the door directly to the side
or end panels of the cabinet. Due to the lack of face
frame, the cabinet doors lie flush with each other,
forming a tight reveal of 1/8” or less. This clean style
emphasizes the door and is often referred to as
European style or full-access cabinetry.
Having a frame allows for additional design options
by varying the amount of space between doors and
drawers. The frame can also help support doors and
drawers.
Because no rails or stiles block the way, frameless
cabinets offer slightly easier access to their interiors.
Expect up to 10 percent more interior space. Also,
many manufacturers eliminate the center stile in
double doors, which provides easier accessibility to
platters and oversize bowls and dishes.
This type of cabinet makes up over 80% of the U.S.
cabinet market.
Cabinet Line - When considering a collection of cabinetry, look beyond door styles and finishes to specific
cabinet types (SKUs), modifications and flexibility. By choosing a cabinet line, you are dictating the options your
designer may use when piecing your kitchen together. Better custom or semi-custom lines offer more upgrades
and modifications for a more uniform, appealing design and appearance in the finished product.
- 19 -
Box
Box materials typically contain wood chips, other wood by-products, and synthetic
additives to make them especially strong and warp resistant.
Plywood cabinets are the best quality for the price and usually come in ½” and ¾” thick
sides. Medium-density fiberboard has gained a following for its ability to be formed into
door and drawer heads and other decorative features. As long as MDF is finished on all
sides, moisture generally won’t affect it. Furniture-grade flakeboard offers a stronger
alternative than particleboard, but both should be avoided since a small water leak can
cause these products to dissolve.
The face frame should be constructed of premium-quality, solid wood for extra rigidity.
Often the door and box will be constructed of different materials. A cabinet door might be
solid maple and the cabinet box plywood covered with a maple veneer. The same finish
would be applied to both, unifying the look. Or you may decide you want different tones on the door and the sides
to add contrast.
Cabinets should have been corner blocked and glued or fastened with screws. Exposed end panels should be
covered with stained wood veneer or melamine that closely matches the exterior finish. On the interior, boxes
ideally should be easy to clean and light colored for maximum light reflection and ease of viewing. This is easily
achieved through the application of a light-colored (sometimes birch or maple wood grain or white) melamine over
the plywood. If your kitchen cabinet designs call for open or glass-door cabinets, make sure the line you choose
offers a stained wood veneer interior to match the outer finish. Better quality cabinetry offers adjustable shelving
as a standard feature.
Drawers
The drawers will likely be made of solid wood or medium-density fiberboard (MDF); have framed or flat slab
fronts; and be held together with either dovetail, mortise-and-tenon, or butt joints.
Glue holds the parts together, though staples or brads are typically used to hold the joints together until the glue
has cured. Dovetail joints provide the most strength.
Because it is highly visible, it should be made of real wood for the best appearance. The most ideal drawers will
use a box that is held together with dovetail joints on all four corners. Interlocking dovetail joints are attractive and
stronger than pinned or doweled joints. And since drawers often bear heavy loads, the box should be built to
include a captive plywood bottom (surfaced with melamine for easy cleaning).
Drawers should roll easily and stop automatically so they don't fall out, while allowing easy access to contents.
Full-extension glides allow the drawer to be pulled out completely for access to the back of the drawer. Better
drawer glides include a spring-loaded, self-closing feature. And where the glides are mounted, under or on the
sides of the drawer box, is really a combination of personal preference and current trend. When the glides are
mounted underneath, they allow for a wide drawer box and they don't catch dirt the way side mount glides do.
Butt joint
Mortise-and-tenon
- 20 -
Dovetail
Door Types
How the cabinet door fits over the cabinet box determines its basic type.
Full Overlay Doors
Have less than 1/8" between them—in effect, they fully lay over the
cabinet. By definition, all frameless cabinets have full overlay
doors. Manufacturers can attach full overlay doors to framed
cabinets as well, however, creating a similar look. You can tell for
sure whether a cabinet is framed or frameless by opening a door
and checking for rails and stiles.
Partial Overlay Doors
Conceal just some of the
face frame—there is usually
a ½" to 1" space between closed doors, allowing you to see much of
the face frame. Because partial overlay doors are smaller than full
overlay doors, they require less material, so this choice could slightly
reduce your cabinetry’s total cost.
Inset Doors
Sit within the rails and stiles and lay flush with the front edges of the
cabinet box. Truly inset doors are only available with framed
construction, but designers can achieve the same look using vertical
pilasters on frameless cabinets. Note: wood may expand and
contract because of humidity, causing rubbing between the door and
stiles.
Lipped Doors
Are routed with a slight wooden groove
to fit over the face frame.
- 21 -
Door Styles
Besides door type, you’ll want to consider different door shapes and styles. One cabinet manufacturer may offer
hundreds of door styles in an endless array of finishes.
Search for shapes and materials that contribute to, rather than detract from, your overall style preference. If your
kitchen has a minimal stainless steel look, consider a slab door. If ornate details cover your kitchen, take a look at
a raised cathedral panel to complement this style.
Your options for cabinet door style include:
Slab
Cathedral Panel
If you like clean lines, a slab door
may be the choice for you. A flat
door that essentially looks like a slab
of wood, metal or other material,
these doors eschew panels. Add
pizzazz to an MDF door by routing a
detailed edge profile.
A cathedral-type arch is incorporated
into the upper rail of this raised or
recessed panel.
Raised Panel
Beadboard Panel
A panel, usually made by joining
pieces of solid stock lumber with
adhesive, is secured to the door's
frame. Raised panels generally
measure between 1/2" and 3/4"
thick. A routed edge profile gives the
door a more elegant appearance.
Typically found in a recessed panel,
beadboard uses routed beaded
details to create a casual country
style.
Routed
Recessed Panel
A single piece of engineered wood
material (such as MDF) is shaped to
take on the appearance of a
recessed or raised panel within the
door, then painted or covered in
laminate.
The recessed panel door is a flat
panel affixed inside a frame
constructed with miter or mortise
and tenon joints. The resulting
appearance has a picture frame-type
look and a simpler, more country or
transitional appearance.
Curved Panel
The top portion of this door’s
decorative panel curves upward in a
gentle arch. The panel itself is
generally raised.
- 22 -
Materials
If wood is your cabinet material of choice, there’s no right or wrong answer when it comes to selecting the
species. Rely on taste and cost as your main determinants. There are other materials available, like laminate and
stainless steel. Most home kitchens go with the warmth of wood.
Your choice of wood will have the most impact on the cabinet’s ultimate look. If you want a light look, for example,
you might start with a light wood like ash, beech, birch, elm, oak, maple or chestnut. In the mid-range, consider
cherry with a natural finish. Or you can stain maple to be darker than its natural color. For a dark kitchen, you’ll
want to start with a wood that has a little color to it. But don’t start with a dark wood like walnut and try to lighten it.
You can always darken the color of lighter woods, but it’s hard to go the other way. You can also consider clear
finishes rather than stains on cherry, walnut, and other woods rich in color, such as butternut, mahogany,
rosewood, and teak.
Just because you’re selecting a wood look doesn’t mean your cabinetry is necessarily solid wood. Clarify whether
your box and door are genuine wood throughout or if additives are present. “All wood” construction refers to these
hardwood veneer and laminate alternatives. In veneers, thin slices of solid hardwood bond with plywood or
composite boards. While laminate surfaces appear to be wood, these cabinets adhere plastic foil or paper
photographs of wood grain patterns to particleboard or medium density fiberboard. Know what you’re paying for; a
maple finish could refer to the photograph, not the wood.
Common Wood Species
Maple: Generally a straight, tight grain, but expect occasional wavy flows and bird’s eye patterning.
Maple’s soft grain pattern allows it to easily adapt to both traditional and contemporary designs, making
it easy to see why maple is the number one wood choice for cabinetry. A very durable wood, maple
finishes well, making it an excellent choice for stains and glazes.
Cherry: A very refined, straight and close grain gives cherry its smooth and elegant look. This
smoothness makes it well suited for mixing with other woods. Its sophistication is belied by its rough
and tough characteristics: Cherry is extremely durable and finishes well.
Oak: Oak’s coarser natural texture results in a relatively defined straight grain that’s more open and
casual than elegant. Oak’s porous nature makes it extremely absorbent: The darker the stain, the more
apparent the grain pattern; light stains reduce its visibility. Among the most common cabinetry woods,
oak’s durability and finishing characteristics make it a sound choice.
Pine: Pine’s straight grain is relatively long and continuous, with knots that give your cabinets a more
rugged look. Southern yellow pine is much more durable than white pine; be sure to ask what you’re
getting. In general, pine tends to be softer wood.
Alder: Once dismissed because of its weed-like growing habits, the Pacific Northwest’s most abundant
hardwood is one of the most in-demand options. Consistent in color, alder tends to range from a pale
pinkish-brown to almost white. Because it has a close grain and readily accepts stain, red alder can
imitate cherry, mahogany, and even walnut.
Birch: Though white paper birch may be the most familiar, the prevalent yellow birch species is the
most valued commercial lumber birch. Commonly found in stock cabinetry, this cream-colored wood
may stain unevenly.
Hickory: A relative of the walnut family, hickory is one of the strongest and heaviest used American
woods. With colors ranging from white to a ruddy brown, this relatively straight and fine grain accepts
medium to dark finishes and bleaches well.
- 23 -
Exotic Wood Species
Mahogany: Valued for a look that’s as rich as its name, this durable hardwood’s straight grain often
incorporates esteemed figures such as mottle, curly and roe. Reddish in color, mahogany stains well to
reveal either light or deep hues.
Walnut: Dark brown to purplish black, this open grained wood’s luster grows over time to increasingly
reflect light.
Ebony: A dark wood with both black and brown grains, this rare species is best suited for decorative
inlays and turnings.
- 24 -
Cabinet Accessories
Storage – Functional cabinet types or additions that enhance
kitchen storage. Makes your kitchen look more orderly, but
usually stays hidden behind cabinet doors. You can choose
chrome or wood instead of plastic. Options include pullouts,
spice racks, lazy Susans, etc.
Door Inserts - Serve only to dress up cabinet doors and add
to your kitchen's style. Inserts can be made from glass, wire,
metal and laminate in an infininate number of colors and
patterns.
Molding and Trim - Pieces of cabinetry material that
embellish the cabinets' surfaces. Primarily serve to enhance
the design aesthetic, but sometimes offer structural support.
Storage
Even the simplest of storage solutions make big differences in your cabinets.
Don’t be content with just adding rollout shelves in your base cabinets. Check out the growing number of options
for how to make drawers give you more storage space. They’re being used now to store plates, pots and pans,
and snacks—and replacing base cabinet shelving in many instances.
And remember that the standard dimensions for cabinets are becoming less and less so. Find out from your
designer or cabinetmaker how much you can push it. Maybe you can add 6 inches of storage to your base
cabinets, making them 30 inches instead of the standard 24 inches deep. Or you could make your upper cabinets
a foot taller and add 3 to 4 inches to their standard 12- to 13-inch depth.
Keep aesthetics in mind. To avoid turning your kitchen into an overwhelming collection of floor-to-ceiling
cabinetry, add contrast. Screened or frosted cabinet doors hide clutter while breaking up the monotony of wood.
Juxtapose your cabinetry with open shelving. Or, stick with three walls of closed cabinetry but opt for an open
floor plan—let the fourth wall open into an adjacent living or dining room.
Your options for storage solutions include:
Shelves
•
•
•
•
Look to different interior shelving options for easy-access in hard-to reach places:
o Rollout shelves
o Foldout banks of shelves
o Swingout shelves
Gain storage space with the narrow, 4-inch-to-10-inch wide slide-in shelves that look like posts when
they’re pushed in. They can give you extra room without taking up whole sections of the cabinets, holding
spices, soups, and more.
Put away plates with ease with open shelving—a great way to add color and personality to your kitchen.
Also, since upper cabinet open shelving tends to be more recessed than low-hanging boxes, you’ll end up
with a more open workspace.
Turn an awkward corner into a valuable storage spot with a lazy Susan. Many shelving manufacturers
offer accessories to make access even easier, like pie-shaped bins and slideouts.
Baskets
Add visual depth and interest with pullout wicker baskets and under-the sink pullout wire baskets—ideal
ways to store linens and more.
Bins
Make cleanup a breeze with pullout trash and recycling bins.
- 25 -
Drawers
•
•
•
•
Use dividers for simplified retrieval:
o Cutlery compartments
o Spice drawers
o Utensil dividers
Consider using drawers instead of shelving for your base cabinets.
Don’t equate drawer storage only with cabinetry. Many appliances, including refrigerators, wine chillers,
and dishwashers, now come as drawer units. Store milk and juice next to your breakfast nook or place
frequently used items in a refrigerator drawer beneath your workspace.
Keep what you use where you use it. A large drawer under a cooktop is an ideal place for pots and pans.
Pantries
Buy in bulk and store with ease with a pantry unit, complete with your choice of shelving:
• Fixed shelf pantry
• Pullout pantry
• Foldout pantry
• Rollout pantry
Other
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Opt for long cabinet pulls—they double as dishtowel hangers.
Store sponges and small cleaning items in a tiltout panel in front of the sink.
Consolidate spices on an inner door rack. To simplify further, alphabetize them for easy retrieval.
Save space by storing trays and baking sheets in vertical dividers.
Display dishware in a plate rack above the sink to add color and clean-up convenience.
Free up valuable cabinet space by storing infrequently used items (like holiday dishes or juicers) in a
pantry or closet space.
Keep what you do use at easy reach—22 to 72 inches above the floor is recommended.
Kitchen Islands and Hutches provide excellent storage and design opportunities.
Door Inserts
A kitchen loaded with base and wall cabinets can look like a storage room or feel dark and heavy. Inserts such as
glass, metal or chicken wire present a great design option to add visual interest, especially on stock cabinets that
might otherwise lack unique touches. Glass will also reflect light, brightening your kitchen and making it appear
larger.
Clear glass can showcase fine china or collectibles, but also reveals fingerprints and clutter. Luckily, inserts come
in a variety of textures and patterns that make the glass translucent or opaque rather than transparent.
Options include:
Beveled—polished angle-ground glass with prismatic characteristics
Bubbled—air bubbles sprinkled in the glass to enhance the illusion of age
Camed—strips (or “cames”) of lead, brass, or copper lie between the glass
Colored—tinted glass
Etched—a design is carved into glass using hydrofluoric acid
Frosted—glass blown with fine sand under high pressure for an opaque look
Leaded—a popular type of camed glass
Mullion—thin strips of wood separate panes of glass
Ribbed—vertical, horizontal, or diagonal lines
Some manufacturers also offer the option of sandwiching materials such as rice paper or fabric between the
layers of glass.
Install halogen lights inside the cabinets for an additional glow or to highlight the contents. Use glass shelves to
allow the light to shine all the way through. Or consider a colored interior; for example, a hunter green interior
against a white cabinet can emphasize a country motif. You can also decorate the interior with stenciled patterns,
faux finishes or wallpaper.
- 26 -
Molding and Trim
Moldings and trim serve as decoration and ornamentation for your cabinetry. They also can conceal joints or
smooth the transition between the cabinets and the ceiling and floor.
In minimalist contemporary kitchens, you’ll find little, if any, molding. Yet a French Country kitchen would not be
complete without stacked crown molding and corbels. More traditional and formal styles typically call for more
elaborate detailing, while transitional or eclectic looks might use just a few standouts, such as rope molding on
cabinet doors and bun feet on an island.
Molding doesn’t need to blend seamlessly into your cabinetry. Add interest by juxtaposing finishes and staggering
cabinet depth. For example, consider having your crown molding stained a deep green to accent knotty alder
cabinets. Or “bump out” your cooktop area with split spindles.
Most often, molding and trim are made from hardwoods such as oak, maple, and cherry or painted softwoods like
pine. Your cabinetmaker may offer a wide selection, or you may want to choose from an independent
manufacturer or shop for a wider range of materials, shapes, sizes and pricing.
Metal can bring a modern kitchen to life. Metal onlays in stainless steel, bronze, copper and nickel are a great and
subtle way to emphasize your hardware. Even better, metal feet are a great addition to generally unornamented
laminate cabinetry.
Polystyrene and polyurethane molding, made from plastic or resin, offer an affordable alternative. These products
are much more resistant to warping, rotting or insects than wood is, and they can be painted any color.
Types of Molding
Molding, whether crown or cornice, can add great detail to your kitchen. Here is an overview of some popular
molding options:
Appliqué: A detailed carved or
etched decorative piece installed on
the face of cabinets.
Crown molding: A long ornamental
strip with a modeled profile, crown
molding accents the tops of your
cabinets, adding height and
elegance.
Bun feet: Round decorative pieces
on the bottom corners of base
cabinets used to raise the cabinetry
and create a furniture look.
Dentil molding: Molding with toothlike, closely spaced rectangular
blocks.
Egg and dart molding: Molding
decorated with alternating oval
(egg) and arrow (dart) shapes.
Corbels: An ornamental bracket
that may or may not also be
structural. These large, carved
pieces often support (or appear to
support) island countertops,
shelving or hood mantels.
Flat trim: Molding without a carved
or rounded profile; commonly used
in Arts and Crafts kitchens.
Cornice: The uppermost section of
molding along the top of cabinetry;
usually refers to molding that meets
the ceiling.
- 27 -
Fluting: Ornamental vertical, semicircular grooves routed into a
pilaster.
Plinth: A square block at the base
of a pilaster or turned post.
Galley rail: A front "retaining wall"
made from small spindles.
Rope molding: Molding carved or
milled to look twisted like rope.
Insert: A decorative strip inset
between other moldings.
Rosette: A carved circular
ornament with a floral look; can
also be a square with a circle
design in the center.
Legs: Both structural and
decorative, these pieces support
base cabinets and provide a
furniture look. They may also be
used to support a countertop
overhanging an island.
Spindle: A slender turned piece of
wood, typically decorative. Large
spindles generally are called turned
posts or legs.
Onlay: Literally "laying on" the
cabinet, an onlay is a carved
decorative element installed on the
cabinet’s face.
Split molding or split spindle: In
essence, half a molding or spindle.
The flat back and half-round shape
makes it easy to apply to a cabinet
surface.
Pediment: A low-pitched triangular
gable that sits atop cabinetry. It
may have scrolls, scallops, arches
or other detailing along the edges.
Toe kick: The recessed area at the
bottom of a base cabinet; also
refers to the molding used to cover
the area.
Pilaster: A vertical column that is
decorative, not structural. It projects
slightly from the cabinet's surface
and is typically rectangular.
Turned posts: Large vertical pieces
with a circular outline; may also be
referred to as legs, columns or
spindles. These may be structural
or decorative.
Valance: A decorative panel
installed across an open area, often
above a sink, over a window, at the
bottom of a base cabinet or at the
top of open shelving.
Plate rail: A decorative shelf with a
groove for plates.
Wainscot: A facing or paneling, often wooden,
applied to the lower part of an interior wall or
large end panel of a cabinet.
- 28 -
Cabinet Hardware
Even the most beautiful, most expensive kitchen cabinets won’t be worth much if you can’t get into them. That’s
where the hardware comes in. But it doesn’t have just a practical value. Regarded as the jewelry of the cabinets,
it’s a detail that can make a strong statement.
You’ll find cabinet hardware in all different kinds of materials and finishes, from brushed chrome to plastic to
ceramic to glass to forged iron, and in all shapes and sizes. You’ll want to decide if you want your pulls to blend in
with the cabinets or become a decorative accent. Or you can make them virtually disappear: You can select a
touch-and-release style or doors that hang slightly below the cabinet so that all you do is pull on the lower edge to
open them.
Practically speaking, make sure your choice:
• Doesn’t pinch your fingers
• Attaches firmly to the cabinet
• Is in proportion with the size of the cabinet doors
• Is easy to grasp, especially if located above the refrigerator or vent hood
When it comes to drawers and pullouts, full-extension undermount glides will offer the most access to the interior
of the cabinet, but are also more expensive than 3/4-extension or side-mounted glides.
Pulls and knobs, also known as decorative hardware, come in tens of thousands of options. (Door hinges and
drawer glides also fall into the hardware category, but most often they are functional rather than decorative—and
certainly not optional.)
Start by considering which of the main types of cabinet hardware you like most: knobs or pulls. Knobs can be any
shape, but attach to the cabinet with one screw. Pulls use two.
There’s no secret formula for deciding what's right for you. Many kitchens use both knobs and pulls—one type for
the doors and another for the drawers. Just be sure to choose knobs and pulls from the same collection or with
complementary stylings to maintain continuity.
Knobs offer a few benefits: With a pull, oils and digging fingernails are more likely to affect the cabinet finish. Also,
if you decide to change your cabinet hardware, a knob's one-point suspension is easier to replace. Pulls vary in
length, so you have to consider distance between the two holes.
If you’d rather go minimalist and avoid hardware, you can. Select a touch-and-release style or doors that hang
slightly below the cabinet so you just pull on the lower edge to open them.
Ease of Use
Make sure that your choice doesn’t pinch your finger, attaches firmly to the cabinet and is easy to
grasp, especially if located above the refrigerator or vent hood. Knobs and pulls protect your
cabinets from food or lotion on your hands. Being comfortable with the way the hardware feels
means you won’t be tempted to open cabinets another way. Test how complicated the hardware
is by trying to operate it with your pinkie.
Finish
Make sure your decorative hardware’s finish doesn’t clash with any exposed functional hardware
such as hinges. Also consider the other finishes in your room. Stainless steel pulls in a kitchen
with a bronze faucet or appliances with a carbon finish may not blend well.
Placement
Comfort and accessibility come first; after that, it’s your aesthetic choice.
Projection
The distance that the pull extends from the cabinet is known as the projection. Make sure your
projection allows for adequate drawer and door clearance. Larger projections can benefit those
looking to employ universal design.
Size
Look for hardware in proportion to the size of the cabinet doors. Long pulls are very popular in
contemporary looks.
- 29 -
Hardware Types
Decorative Cabinet Knobs
Knobs tend to be circular in shape, often with faceted edges. Offering
a more concentrated surface area, knobs tend to feature slightly more
decorative accents than pulls, such as handpainting. Because the
center is anchored with a screw, more fragile materials, such as glass,
may be used.
Drawer and Door Pulls
Installed with two screws, a pull can actually be any length. Just be sure to
measure the distance between the centers of the screws when drilling holes
for installation. Typical screw patterns include 3”, 2 ¾”, 2 ½”, 4”, 64mm and
96”.
Available in a variety of materials such as metals and leather, pulls require
a fairly durable material, making natural products like glass and some
stones more rare.
Cup or Bin Pulls
Though they use the same screw pattern as pulls, cup pulls feature a semi-enclosed curving
shape. With a more traditional look, cup pulls are good choices for country and farmhouse
kitchens.
Drop Pulls
Ideal for cabinets where projection is a problem, drop pulls’ handle portions pivot up and down.
The often curved, elegant shape makes them ideal for furniture or dining room pieces.
Backplates
Backplates lie between the door and the hardware and can be used with
both knobs and pulls. In addition to protecting the cabinet surface,
backplates draw the eye to the hardware and cover existing screw holes in
cabinets.
- 30 -
Hinges
Chances are your choice of hinge isn’t something you’ll have any say in,
though it’s valuable to understand the differences. The most important bit
of knowledge to acquire is this: be sure to select cabinetry that offers a
lifetime warranty on hinges.
There are three distinct types of hinges:
Concealed hinges (European cup hinges)
These Euro-style hinges are hidden when the door is
closed, providing a clean look for frameless cabinetry.
Concealed hinges are typically attached through a hole
bored into the back of the door. Easily adjustable, they often feature a “clip” that makes for easy
removal and adjustments. Less easy, however, is its ability to open: concealed hinges only offer
up to a 110-degree range of motion.
Barrel hinges
Leading the way in the realm of self-closing, spring-loaded options, barrel hinges provide ample
access to the cabinet interior. Installed on the front frame, these hinges are fully exposed.
Knife hinges
Embedded in and screwed to the cabinet frame, this scissor-shaped hinge provides a 180degress range of motion and is either fully or partially visible when the door is closed.
Drawer Glides
Full-extension glides attach to the bottom or the sides of the drawer and
provide full access to the drawer interior. Their ball-bearing system adds
stability and strength. Stronger versions can be used to store heavier items,
such as files or cookware.
Ball-bearing glides attach to the bottom of the drawer sides. Usually
standard on high-end cabinets, they offer smooth, quiet operation. Their
concealed runners mounted to the bottom of the drawer don’t get as dirty as
those mounted on the side. They allow for a wider drawer box with a more
usable interior space.
Track-and-roller glides attach to the drawer sides. Their epoxy-coated steel tracks and nylon rollers offer quiet
operation but are less stable than ball-bearing ones.
Wooden glides work as slots in the drawer sides or bottoms and move the drawer along a wood runner. This
option has fallen out of favor because the drawers tend to stick as the wood expands and contracts.
- 31 -
Hardware Material Options
Select cabinet hardware whose material gels with the theme of your kitchen. Copper and ivory ceramic add a
dose of authenticity to French country and farmhouse-style kitchens. While stainless steel is an obvious choice for
contemporary spaces, look to modern alternatives like brightly-colored resin and brushed nickel. From glass to
hand-cast metals, your cabinet hardware material options include:
Acrylic and Nylon
Though they’re synthetic like plastic, acrylic and nylon are much more durable, resisting much of
the wear that plastic succumbs to. The man-made material can be tinted an endless array of
colors. They are generally a less expensive choice.
Brass
A yellow-colored alloy of zinc and copper, brass works well for both casting and machine
fabrications. Increased amounts of zinc produce a more yellow metal. Unprotected brass will
tarnish, even with constant polishing; many manufacturers offer protection options. Solid brass
offers a heavier feel, an authentic choice for Old World kitchens, and shows sharper details. Other
varieties include brass finished and brass coated.
Ceramic and Porcelain
This natural clay product, fired for a hard and durable finish, is generally glazed in a shade of white
and often later painted. Porcelain has a slightly more transparent finish, like that of fine china.
Ceramic is more common among decorative hardware options. Both generally use and inbedded
brass insert to enable installation.
Chrome Plated
Chrome tends to plate brass hardware, imparting a look that easily swings from 1930s retro to
thoroughly modern and sophisticated. Chrome requires frequent polishing to stay fingerprint-free.
Glass
The fragile and faceted material provides beautiful results, so long as great care is taken with
installation; they can be broken by dropping or over-tightening the installation screw.
Pewter
This jewelry-quality material, available in brushed and polished finishes, exudes a beautiful patina
that makes it well suited for traditional designs. Antique pewter, an alloy of lead and tin, darkens to
its characteristic shade because of the lead. Modern lead-free pewter hardware is more durable
than pure varieties and will not darken.
Resin
This solid polymer material casts well and is primarily used for artisan items.
Wood
Able to fit with a wide variety of styles, wood hardware is available both finished and unfinished in
soft and hardwood varieties. It’s also used as a base for hand-painted knobs and as a decorative
accents on metals.
Zinc
A good base for a variety of decorative finishes, this softer material generally has threaded brass
inserts for installation of screws.
- 32 -
Textures
Distressed—The dented and scratched feel lends a classic look to Old World, country and farmhouse
kitchens.
Hammered—This style of hardware has broad or narrow surface indentations produced or appearing to
have been produced by hammering. Hammered knobs and pulls are a key element of Arts & Crafts
homes.
Matte—This dull surface gives a dose of subtlety to your hardware. While matte antique brass, copper
and statuary bronze knobs are perfect for period kitchens, chrome, satin brass and nickel serve
contemporary spaces well.
Oil Rubbed—Typically done on bronze, oil-rubbed hardware’s aged patina shows through a charcoalcolored finish.
Polished—With a mirror-like sheen, these smooth and glossy knobs literally shine. This bold look is
well-suited for bar areas and bathrooms.
Satin—Resting between matte and polished options in terms of its sheen, satin hardware offers a bit
more texture: expect a somewhat threaded look
- 33 -
Styles
It’s referred to as jewelry for a reason—when you’re dressing your home with cabinets, decorative hardware truly
makes the “outfit” sparkle. Now that you’re comfortable with the basics of form and function, it’s time to let your
tastes run wild.
Arts & Crafts—The hardware finishes in this time period were generally very dark and had
hammered faces. Metal is a must: Consider aged iron, silver or bronze hammered knobs and pulls
or backplates with geometric cutouts.
Contemporary (Cool): Unsurprisingly, stainless steel reigns supreme, though primary colors and
plastics make solid choices and well. Opt for elongated angled pulls and geometric knobs.
Contemporary (Warm): To project a softer, warmer look, opt for material that’s a little less harsh,
such as brushed and satin nickel, bright colors in resin or artisan glass, or materials with matte
finishes. Opt for elongated pulls that are curved and free of sharp angles or T-knobs.
Cottage: Knobs are the dominant hardware of choice for cottage-style kitchens. Porcelain and
embossed stoneware are authentic choices; semi-glossy periwinkle blues, creams and whites work
well. Also check for woven designs using wire or bamboo.
Country/Farmhouse: Think simple. Wooden knobs or rustic brass cup pulls are as complicated as
you need to get. Glazed porcelain and faceted glass knobs add fun without being too fussy. If
you’re leaning more toward kitschy than period-style, consider decorative country symbols like farm
animals and vegetables.
Georgian/Traditional: Select hardware with classic turnings in brass or weathered copper or nickel.
Look for stylings reminiscent of fine furniture.
Old World: To mimic old European chateaus, search out hefty hardware with an aged patina.
Consider wire frame knobs in cast iron with rust finish, distressed ceramics or ivory polyresin knobs
with an oil-rubbed bronze shaft, hardware featuring bas relief accents, and fluted cup pulls.
Rustic Retreat: Earthy is best. Consider wood and natural stone products in aged and weathered
finishes or hammered designs. To really play on your theme, choose twig pulls or leaf knobs.
Tuscan: Bring the Mediterranean to life with hand painted ceramic knobs in warm limes, blues and
rust colors, and jeweled-tone glass with silver overlay.
Victorian: Faceted clear glass knobs impart elegance while maintaining an heirloom feel. Check to
see if area antique shops sell them.
- 34 -
Cabinet Refinishing and Refacing
Save money on a kitchen remodel by refinishing or refacing cabinets instead of buying new cabinetry.
Not every kitchen remodel calls for all-new kitchen cabinets. If new cabinets just aren't in the budget, and your
cabinetry remains in good shape but looks dated, you have options. Easy and affordable redos include adding
organization accessories to the interior of boxes and drawers to provide more storage, and replacing knobs, pulls
and other hardware to add fresh style.
Other exterior makeovers require more effort and money. Refinishing means that keeping all of your existing
cabinetry and simply changing the color or finish. This is done through hand sanding or chemically stripping the
existing finish from the wood, then applying a new paint or stain. This works best on wood cabinets. Laminate and
thermofoil can't be sanded or stripped, and it's "nearly impossibly for paint to stick," says John Williams of Sears
Home Improvement Products.
Refacing means keeping the cabinet boxes but replacing the cabinet doors and drawer fronts with new ones. This
allows you to change both the style and the color. You can also replace cabinet side panels, face frames and
moldings so that everything matches.
Can't decide between refinishing and refacing? Consider door style, kitchen layout and budget. If you hate your
door style, why refinish them? Likewise, if you don't like your kitchen's configuration and want to add an island or
other cabinetry, don't refinish – it will be very difficult to match to new cabinetry, unless you paint instead of stain.
However, if budget is your top priority, refinishing is the cheaper option.
Refinishing Kitchen Cabinets
Refinishing your cabinets is a fast, inexpensive way to update your kitchen's look.
Looking to give your kitchen a new look, but not interested in paying for a whole wall of new cabinetry? Consider
refinishing your cabinets. Check out these methods for ideas on how to get started.
Paint
Paint is a great way to hide imperfections on otherwise perfect cabinetry. So long as the
inner workings are functioning well, a fresh look is just a few steps away. While it’s
important to speak to your manufacturer or local hardware shop about which specific
steps are needed for your cabinets, the following overview should give you a solid idea of
the project’s scope.
After thoroughly cleaning the surface, fill in any scratches or indentations with wood filler.
Sand with 180- to 220-grit sandpaper then apply a coat of shellac-based sealer to help
the paint adhere.
To add even more interest to your cabinetry, consider a two-tone color scheme (i.e.,
painting your molding a different shade than the cabinet itself). Decorative painting is also
a unique way to liven them up. Consider the following techniques and effects (consult
your local hardware store to find the appropriate kind of paint):
Color Washing
This painting method produces “floating” color. Though heavier application makes it
appear less cloudlike, this ambient effect often takes on the look of parchment paper.
Rag Rolling
This method produces a rag-like effect, as if moderately-sized patches of paint were
applied with a rag.
Sponging
It’s all in the wrists—the effect you’ll get from sponging is largely dependent on the way
you apply the paint. A heavy or subtle look can further be achieved by your color choice:
contrasting colors pack a punch, while similar shades blend more seamlessly. An easy
finish to keep up with, future cabinet dents or scratched can be quickly covered. In terms
of application, it’s best to use a natural sea sponge.
- 35 -
Stenciling
With roots that reach back to Egyptian times, stenciling is a tried and true way to add
visual interest to uninspired cabinets. Be sure to use a pattern.
Stippling
Also known as pouncing, this technique mimics a textured sandy effect. Consider this
decorative method for your molding and trim.
Pickling
Get out of a fashion pickle by pickling your cabinets. A great way to highlight the wood’s
natural grain, pickling is best done on open-pored woods like oak and ash, because the
majority of the pigment remains in the pores, making the grain more apparent.
Though technically a method, not a finish, semi-transparent white or off-white pickling
stains can be purchased. You can also make your own stain; consult your local hardware
store for instructions.
Refacing Kitchen Cabinets
Chances are your vision of your cabinetry conjures up images of doors and moldings—not of the frame. Refacing
offers a speedy way to leave the frame as is but makeover the rest.
If you’re in need of a refreshed kitchen look but are happy with the current layout of your kitchen and your
cabinets’ quality, refacing may be just the route to take. Refacing does just that—gives your kitchen a new
“face”—while using the same “body,” a method that has the potential to save both time and money.
Refacing refers to the process of removing your old doors, drawer fronts, and hardware then resurfacing the
frames and exposed cabinet ends with hardwood veneer. The veneer is stained and finished to match your new
choice of doors, which are then installed to the recently refreshed frames.
Check with your refacer, but you should be able to add molding or valences to further dress up your new
cabinetry. While your layout must remain static, some refacers offer you the option of adding new cabinetry or an
island to your existing design.
If you are unsure of whether you need to replace or reface, then ask yourself the following:
• Are you tired of your kitchen’s current look?
• Do you want a more up-to-date look?
• Does your current kitchen offer adequate storage and countertop space?
• Are your cabinet drawers still in good condition and open easily?
• Have other neighborhood homeowners remodeled their kitchens in the last few years?
• Has the value of your home stopped rising?
• Do you plan to sell your home in the next year?
If you answered yes to the majority of them, refacing may be the right solution for you. Keep in mind the following:
• You can’t change the layout—any current headaches you have from misdirected traffic or bumping
elbows won’t disappear.
• Check out the warranty: it generally will cover the new products only, not the new “cabinet.”
• You will be applying veneer to the surface, not solid wood.
• Your cabinets’ interiors will remain the same—be sure you’re currently comfortable with the way they look
and the ease of cleaning them.
- 36 -
Tile
The choices of tile flooring and backsplashes are extensive and can make a big impact on the look of the kitchen
or can be more subdued to allow other features of the kitchen to be accented. Larger tiles will make a small room
look larger, as will lighter colors. A full field of small mosaic tiles will make a floor look “busy” and the room
smaller. Mosaic tiles are a great choice to use to break-up the field of larger-sized tiles by using them in the
pattern for accent.
Types of Tile Materials
Ceramic
Most types of tiles that are made from clay or a mixture of clay and
other materials, then kiln-fired, are considered to be a part of the
larger classification called “Ceramic Tiles”. These tiles can be split
into two groups, porcelain tiles and non-porcelain tiles. Non-porcelain
tiles are frequently referred to as ceramic tiles by themselves,
separate from porcelain tiles.
“Ceramic” or non-porcelain tiles are generally made from red or white
clay fired in a kiln. They are almost always finished with a durable
glaze which carries the color and pattern. Ceramic is best known for
its durability. Ceramic tile is a popular, time-tested covering for floors
and walls. It is a great choice for wet areas and can be budget-friendly. Ceramic tiles come in a wide range of
colors, textures, shapes, and sizes, in addition to a range of prices. These tiles are used in both wall tile and floor
tile applications, are softer and easier to cut than porcelain, and usually carry a PEI 0 to 3 rating. Non-porcelain
ceramic tiles are usually suitable for very light to moderate traffic and generally are more prone to wear and
chipping than porcelain tiles.
The hardness and scratch resistance of ceramic tile is rated according to the Porcelain Enamel Institute (PEI)
Ratings and wear descriptions:
• Class 1 (No foot traffic) - Recommended for wall use only.
• Class 2 (Light traffic) - Recommended for both wall use and bathroom floor applications only.
• Class 3 (Light to moderate traffic) - Recommended for countertops, walls and floors where normal foot
traffic is expected.
• Class 4 (Moderate to heavy traffic) - Recommended for all residential applications as well as medium
commercial and light institutional.
• Class 5 (Heavy to extra heavy traffic) - Recommended for all residential as well as heavy commercial and
institutional applications.
Porcelain
Porcelain tile is a tile that is generally made by the dust pressed
method from porcelain clays which result in a tile that is dense,
impervious, fine grained and smooth, with a sharply formed face.
Porcelain tiles usually have a much lower water absorption rate (less
than 0.5%) than non-porcelain tiles making them frost resistant or frostproof. Glazed porcelain tiles are much harder and more wear and
damage resistant than non-porcelain ceramic tiles, making them
suitable for any application from light traffic to the heaviest residential
and light commercial traffic. Full body porcelain tiles carry the color and
pattern through the entire thickness of the tile making them virtually impervious to wear and are suitable for any
application from residential to the highest traffic commercial or industrial applications. Porcelain tiles are available
in matte, unglazed or a high polished finish.
- 37 -
Glass
Glass tile is basically glass that is made into various sized tiles and
finishes. They are available in different shapes including: Squares,
Bricks, Sticks, Ovals, Rounds, and Mixed Sizes. Glass Tiles are
available in different finishes, including: Polished, Glossy, Matte,
Tumbled, Rippled, and Iridescent Glass Tile. They are available in
individual pieces or mounted on a sheet depending in the size of the
glass tile and the glass tile manufacturer. It is stain resistant making it
ideal for use as a bathroom wall, shower wall, and shower floor
installations. Glass Tile has become more popular with the drop in
prices over the last decade. Glass Tile comes in sizes from 6”x6” field
tiles to ¾” mosaic tiles. Many people use it as an accent to a field of
ceramic tiles, or the entire surface can be done with glass.
Natural Stone (Granite, Slate, Marble, Travertine, Limestone)
Granite is a dense-grained hard stone. It's actually the
second hardest known substance next to diamonds. Granite
is an igneous rock formed either from the melting of
sediments deep within the earth or through magma (lava)
activity that has heated and cooled. These sediments were
held under extreme pressure and temperatures for millions
of years, then brought to the surface of the earth through
upheaval of the crust that formed mountains. This process
produces granite, a quartz-based product, which combines
strength and durability with rich patterns and veining.
Minerals within granite typically appear as small flecks
throughout the stone, often creating a salt and pepper look.
Other types of granite have veining similar to marble. After polishing, natural granite will maintain its high
gloss finish virtually forever. It also cleans in seconds. Because of its durability, it can be used
successfully on kitchen countertops, wet bars, entry walls, floors, fireplaces and bathroom vanities.
Flamed or honed granite can be used almost anywhere. Buyers should note that no two natural stone
tiles will be the same-each has its own natural beauty. Homeowners must be sure to seal the stone
periodically, however, in order to maintain that beauty.
Slate is a fine-grained, metamorphic rock, commonly
derived from sedimentary rock shale. It's composed mostly
of micas, chlorite, and quartz and is best suited for floors,
walkways and roofing, and recently has been used
attractively for kitchen countertops and wet bars.
It's a dense, very tough composite that's typically available in
blacks, grays and greens, although many other colors can
also be found in slate products. Slate shades within the
same color family often vary. Veined patterns from overseas
have also recently been introduced. Unless it has been
honed smooth, slate's surface can be recognized by its
distinct cleft pattern.
- 38 -
Marble is one of the more popular natural stones,
formed from fossil sediment deposits that have been
pressed by the natural geologic forces of nature for
millions of years. Much as diamonds are created from
coal, marble was once limestone that underwent a
metamorphosis from the intense pressures and high
temperatures within the earth.
The combination of the natural materials in these
deposits, along with natural geologic events, produces
unique colors and veining with a richness of depth and
intensity. Most marble products are generally softer than
granites and have more porosity than granite. Since
marble is a softer stone than granite, it's most often used in bathroom walls and flooring, as well as for tub
decks, fireplace surrounds, furniture, sculptures and courtyards. Marble is not recommended for kitchens
unless the stone is honed and sealed.
Travertine is a variety of limestone formed in pools by the
precipitation of hot mineral-rich spring water. Travertine is
another form of marble that's less dense than a high-grade
marble and highly porous. The divots that are characteristic
of travertine were created by carbon dioxide bubbles that
became trapped as the stone was being formed.
Travertine can have a honed, unfinished surface, or the
holes can be filled and then polished to a high gloss. It's best
used in entry walls, floors, fireplace surrounds, vanities,
shower walls, tub decks and mosaics, but is not
recommended for kitchen or wet bar countertops since it can
be easily scratched. It can also be easily stained by fruit
juices and alcoholic products. Its colors usually range from light beige to brown. Travertine does require a
degree of special care, as some cleaning products can be destructive to its surface.
Limestone is a form of marble that's less dense than
marble or travertine (see below). Limestone is a
sedimentary rock consisting mostly of calcium carbonate
and is formed from the remains of ancient sea life, such
as oysters, mussels, and other ancient shellfish and
invertebrates, which have dropped to the sandy bottom
of ancient seas and then compressed over millions of
years.
Limestone is a common stone found in many parts of the
world in excellent abundance. Limestone generally
varies in earthy colors such as off-white, grey or beige. If the limestone contains the mineral dolomite, it
becomes harder in nature and can be polished to a shine much like marble can. Its best uses are for
structural walls, entry walls, floors, fireplace surrounds, vanities and shower walls. It's generally not
recommended for kitchen countertops and wet bars because fruit juices and alcohol products can stain it
and limestone is prone to scratches.
- 39 -
Metal – Copper, Brass, Stainless Steel, Nickel, Zinc, Pewter, etc.
Metal wall tiles can be made from many types of materials . Material
selection for metal wall tiles can vary from stainless steel which is
resistant to rust, to copper which is quite resistant to deep corrosion, in
that it will not rust but will turn from a reddish-orange to a classic
reddish-brown color as it ages in moist air. Even Zinc which has a
bluish-white appearance may be used to coat steel and iron metal wall
tiles giving them a unique color. Some say that zinc has germicidal
qualities. Metal wall tiles will have a natural variation in color and
sheen that is part of its overall elegance. These metals, particularly
bronze, will age and beautify over time developing a natural patina.
High points will become brighter with wear and cleaning while low
points will tend to darken, adding richness and texture. Many homes
have decided to add the elegance of metal wall tiles to there ceramic
tile design to achieve a unique and personal touch so many home owners desire. With metal wall tiles home
owners may attain tile designs found in ancient Italy, Spain, or Greece. For the modern home owner metal wall
tiles will put the finishing touch on that one-of-kind artistic design you are trying to finish. Shiny metal wall tiles
with swirl or special etched designs will spice up any kitchen, bathroom, or dinning room.
Tile Selections
There are 1000s of different styles and colors of tiles. Here are a few places to start looking. There are
many local showrooms and online dealers with more selections.
daltile.com
morristile.com
metalwalltiles.net
subwaytile.com
- 40 -
flooranddecoroutlets.com
Tile Patterns
Symmetry is important in any pattern. One common pattern is using a larger field tile for the shower
walls, plus a smaller (sometimes made of a different material) accent tile used to make a line at eye height or just
above the knee, or both. It’s very common to use a different tile for the floor than the walls.
Some of the more common tile patterns:
Straight Layout
45-degree Diagonal
Pinwheel
Herringbone
Brick (Staggered)
Offset Stagger
Versailles
This website has a sampling of the more common tile patterns.
daltileproducts.com/tile_patterns.cfm
- 41 -
Grout
Ceramic tiles are attractive and durable, and when properly installed,
they can last for many years. The grout in the joints between the tiles is
a key component in the structure of a tiled surface, and different types
of grout are suitable for different applications.
Sanded Cement Grout consists of cement, sand, and water
mixed together. It can be mixed on the job or purchased premixed. The
sand in the grout provides strength to the grout and allows it to support
heavier tiles. Sanded grout is also less prone to shrinkage as it dries
than nonsanded grout. For these reasons, sanded grout is used when
the gap between tiles is greater than 1/8 inch and when heavy tiles are
used. Color choices for cement-based grouts are limited. Cementbased grouts also are porous and must be sealed to resist water absorption, bacteria growth, and mildew.
Nonsanded Cement Grout is a mixture of cement and
water. It often contains fillers and a water-retentive additive that
allows it to be applied to dry tiles. Cement grout without this
additive must be applied to wet tiles to ensure proper drying of the
grout. Nonsanded is best used in situations where the tile joint is
less than 1/8 inch. Because the sand in grout can scratch tiles,
nonsanded grout is also used on tiles with delicate finishes. Like
sanded grout, nonsanded grout must be sealed.
Epoxy Grout is made with an epoxy resin and hardener, along
with fillers and pigments. Epoxy grout is stronger and more flexible
than cement grout. It is water-resistant, so it does not require
sealing, and is particularly suitable for use in bathrooms and
kitchens. Epoxy grout is also stain-resistant, and it is less prone to
the growth of bacteria and mildew than cement grout. The primary
drawback of epoxy grout is its cost; it is significantly more
expensive than cement grout.
Specialty Grouts Some cement grouts are supplemented with
a latex polymer that makes them more water-resistant. Conversely, some epoxy grouts are augmented with
Portland cement, giving them the appearance of cement grout while retaining the benefits of epoxy grout. Grouts
used on tiles that are exposed to chemicals sometimes use special additives in their mixtures rather than water,
which gives the grout increased chemical resistance.
laticrete.com
mapei.com
- 42 -
Flooring
Tile is the choice for most kitchen floors, because of water concerns in the kitchen and the high traffic nature of
this area. There are other types of flooring which can be used in a kitchen as well. Vinyl, laminate, engineered
flooring, and hardwood are all excellent choices for a kitchen. Carpet can be used instead, but even the short
commercial carpet is not a great choice for the kitchen.
Vinyl
Vinyl flooring is comfortable on the feet, easy to clean, stain-resistant
and easy to install. It is inexpensive and quick to install. Glossy finishes
are not only slippery when wet, but need to be waxed regularly to keep
the shine from turning dull. There is a cushion layer on vinyl flooring,
which makes it comfortable to walk on and quiet, but the thicker the
cushion the more easily the floor will dent. Keep in mind that textured
patterns are better at hiding dents than smooth ones.
Options – Vinyl is available in simple designs or made to it look like
tile, stone, wood or brick. You can also create your own designs with
vinyl sheeting by cutting out pieces of the sheeting and replacing them
with contrasting pieces, or make a design from different colored tiles.
Vinyl Sheets come in 6 or 12 foot widths, which is great for a no seam
floor in smaller rooms. It is better in high traffic areas or where there is
a lot of moisture, and also costs more than Vinyl Tiles. Vinyl Tiles are
easier to install than she eting and many come with an adhesive
backing that makes it even easier.
Pros – Inexpensive, durable, easy on the feet, quiet, water and stain resistant, and low maintenance. It's easy to
install – especially tiles. 12 foot wide sheets means seamless floors in small rooms. You can create
patterns with tiles.
Cons – Prone to dents and tears. Moisture can get into seams leading to mildew and lifting. Glossy finishes are
slippery when wet, and can dull easily unless waxed regularly. Solid vinyl is more expensive, but longer
lasting and better wearing than vinyl composites. Expect a 10 year warrantee on the best vinyl flooring,
compared to about 5 years or no warrantee on the cheap stuff.
- 43 -
Laminate & Hardwood Flooring
Laminate
Laminates are another flooring option that has gained popularity in the
past decade. They are durable, scratch-resistant, and easy to clean
and maintain. They can also be installed over old flooring. Their price
is in the mid-range of flooring. Although the planks are sealed on the
top layer, the joints will not be sealed and spills should be wiped up
right away to avoid moisture between the joints. Even the most durable
laminates cannot be refinished if damaged, but pieces can be
replaced. Although it costs about as much as installing a wood floor,
laminates can be used in damp environments, such as below grade
basements.
Options – Laminate Flooring is available either in planks or tiles. It consists of a laminate surface glued to a
fiberboard core. A “floating” floor, laminates are a tongue and groove system that is glued or merely “clicked”
together, rather than nailed to the subfloor. If installed on a wood subfloor, an underlayment needs to be used to
cushion the floor and muffle sound. If working with a concrete floor, a vapor barrier must be used as well. They
come in a wide range of colors, designs and textures that can imitate
wood, stone or ceramic tile.
As with other types of flooring, choose lighter shades for small spaces or
to give a more open feel and darker colors for larger spaces, or for a
more intimate feel. Many laminates also have matching trim pieces that
can really enhance the design of the floor.
Pros – Durable, easy to maintain, scratch-resistant, wide range of colors
and designs, can be installed over old flooring, can be
affordable, quiet when used with underlayment, good choice for
damp areas and below grade, easy installation – good choice for
do-it-yourselfers, has color/grain uniformity, many click together
styles require no glue.
Cons – Cannot be refinished if damaged. Some can be expensive – as
much as wood. Material must acclimate for 48 hours before
installation.
Hardwood
Wood is a classic choice. Its many natural hues work well with a wide
array of designs. Wood floors are long-lasting, warm and comfortable
on your feet, and fairly easy to keep clean. Prices range from
expensive (standard, unfinished oak) to very expensive (cherry with an
inlaid design).
Despite the old adage that wood and water don’t mix, wood floors can
be an excellent choice for a kitchen or bath. As long as your floor is
properly sealed and well maintained, it will last for years. However,
keep in mind that even a well-finished floor will stain if spills are not
wiped up right away. Also, softer woods, such as pine, can mar and
dent easily, and most wood will darken with age, which can change the look of your floor over time.
To stretch out the life of your wood floor, put rugs and mats (with slip proof pads underneath) wherever you can.
They should be placed at room entrances and in front of sinks and appliances - anywhere that will get a lot of
wear and tear.
Options – There are many types of wood flooring, such as oak, maple, ash, cherry, mahogany or pine. Another
consideration is the color (natural or stains), grain, and board widths. Lighter woods like maple and ash work well
to brighten a room and are often used in more contemporary designs. Wide board pine flooring can be used to
create or compliment a rustic or country look. Narrower boards make a more contemporary look. For a more
- 44 -
formal design you can also use parquet floors (wood flooring made up of wood “fingers” formed into tiles), or you
can opt for inlaid designs.
Unfinished Solid Wood – Is the traditional way that wood floors are
installed, where the unfinished wood flooring is installed,
sanded, then the stain and polyurethane finish is applied.
Be aware that installing unfinished wood or refinishing
wood floors will create lots of dust everywhere! If the floor
is finished after installation, you'll need to choose a Satin
or Gloss finish. Keep in mind that a satin sheen will hide
dirt better – an important plus in kitchens and bathrooms.
Glossy finishes can be slippery when wet and will show
scratches.
Pre-finished Flooring – Solid Wood flooring that is finished at the
factory. The coating is usually more durable than the
polyurethane applied on-site for Unfinished Solid Wood. This makes it more dent and scratch resistant
and it wears better than floors installed and finished on site. One drawback is that water spills are more
likely to seep into the spaces between boards and cause damage if not immediately wiped up, than with
flooring finished after installation.
Engineered Wood Flooring – Made up of several layers, rather than being cut from one piece of wood. The top
layer is a veneer of the hardwood that you see as the floor. (Get the thickest you can afford, so it wears
well and can be refinished.) The other 2 - 4 layers are made of less expensive wood laid in opposite
directions for added strength and stability. Engineered Wood comes pre-finished in strips or planks. They
are usually installed as a “floating” floor (meaning the boards are glued together, rather than being nailed
to the subfloor). Beware of beveled edge flooring. This feature will make a floor look more level, even if
the boards don’t match up perfectly. But beveled edges can allow moisture between the boards,
diminishing the life of the floor.
Pros – Beautiful, warm, soft on the feet, fairly durable, long-lasting if properly sealed and maintained, can be
refinished, many wood types and hues to choose from, can be painted or stained for more color options,
helps tie kitchen to other rooms in an open floor plan.
Cons – Susceptible to water damage, darkens with age, expensive to very expensive, softer woods can dent
easily, harder to keep clean than vinyl or laminate – water and spills need to be cleaned immediately.
Dust everywhere with refinishing or new installation of unsealed wood. Material must acclimate for 48
hours before installation.
Carpet
Carpet is another option which can make the room feel warm and
comfortable. It can even work well in certain bathrooms. However, it is
not recommended in a kitchen as food spills would have it looking and
smelling pretty bad in no time. Carpet is very warm and soft on the feet
and it muffles sound. It's slip-resistant and there are lots of colors and
styles to choose from. It is best used in drier climates, where humidity
and mildew aren’t a problem.
Since carpet is harder to keep clean than other flooring, the best
choice would be a tightly-woven, high-wear, commercial carpet, that is
moisture- and stain-resistant, such as polypropylene. If you live in a
humid climate, try large, washable area rugs on top of another type of
flooring instead of wall-to-wall carpet, for a similar effect.
Pros – Warm, easy on the feet, quiet, lots of colors and styles to choose from, choice of wall to wall or area rugs,
slip-resistant, can be affordable.
Cons – More appropriate for drier climates. Collects di rt and moisture – which can turn into mildew. Wall to wall
carpeting is not a good choice for people with dust allergies. It's hard to clean. Polypropylene or washable
area rugs best choice.
- 45 -
Appliances
Appliances are the workhorses of your kitchen. Together, they will add
up to 10% of your kitchen budget. This figure is surprisingly low,
considering the technological advances and energy efficiencies today's
appliances offer. While features and performance are obviously the
most important considerations in choosing appliances, how they'll look
in your kitchen probably matters to you, too.
White appliances are still the
classic favorite, followed by
black. Stainless steel, with its
professional look, continues to
grow in popularity. If you covet a simple Shaker-style space or a
luxurious Italian villa setting, however, you may want to hide the fridge
and dishwasher out of sight. To meet this need, savvy cabinet
manufacturers offer coordinated cabinet fronts that adhere easily and
provide a custom-designed look. To further the traditional, low-tech look,
you can opt for small-appliance depots in countertop-height cabinets.
You can even choose a specially designed under-counter oven.
Refrigerator
Buying the right refrigerator is vitally important. Not only is the refrigerator responsible for preventing your food
from spoiling, it is also one of the few appliances in your home that runs continuously all the time. Today's
refrigerator-freezer models are more energy efficient and have more interior room than ones from 20 years ago.
They also offer a lot more convenience. Many models come with adjustable glass shelves, meat keeper with
temperature control, vegetable crisper with humidity control, ice-maker, and deep door bins. Water- and icedispensing units built right into the door add further appeal. Built-in refrigerator-freezers and commercial,
stainless-steel models are top-of-the-line choices for luxurious looks or serious, high-volume storage.
Door Styles
Freezer-on-Top – Standard style refrigerator that has been popular for many years. It’s generally the most
affordable model.
Freezer-on-Bottom – A very good option for people with bad backs. With the freezer on the bottom, the
refrigerator is at eye level. Traditionally has a full-width swing door for the refrigerator and a roll-out
drawer for the freezer.
Side-by-Side – Instead of full width doors on top and door, the freezer is on one side and the refrigerator on the
other. The freezer has the same square footage as the other models, but is narrow and doesn’t always
allow enough storage room for some person’s needs (i.e. it’s difficult to store a full-size turkey or frozen
pizzas).
French Door/Freezer-on-Bottom – Same as the regular Freezer-onBottom refrigerator with a full-width door, except it has two
half-width doors that swing out and gives access to a fullwidth refrigerator section.
Size
One rule of thumb says plan on 12-15 cubic feet for two people and
2-6 more cubic feet for each additional household member. If you
like to stock up during sales, or cook often for crowds, the more room
the better. In all cooling sections, look for pull-out, roll-out bins and
baskets that make it easy to see everything without having to dig
around, squandering energy (yours as well as the refrigerator's!).
- 46 -
If you have the room, then a separate, under-counter refrigerator for soft drinks and a wine cooling compartment
are entertaining options. If you're a serious entertainer, you may want to look into ice makers that fit into the space
of a trash compactor and produce large quantities of ice daily.
Other things to look for:
• Look for an energy-rating label with the most stars and the
least kilowatt-hours (kWh) per year.
• Check for space-maximizing features such as split shelves,
adjustable shelf height, and pull-out shelves.
• Some door compartments can be large enough for gallon jugs
of milk.
• A built-in ice maker or water filter is great for families.
• Listen to the fridge - you want the refrigerator to be as quiet as
possible.
• A freezer-on-top model is the most common, and the most
affordable. A side-by-side model works well in smaller kitchens
with little room for door clearance, but there is less room for
wider items. A freezer-on-the-bottom model is convenient
because the fresh food compartment is at eye level.
• A built-in model can be customized, but is expensive. A
cabinet-depth model is an affordable alternative to built-in.
If you stock up on food or do a lot of entertaining, you may consider a second refrigerator or a stand-alone freezer
in another area of the house.
Cooking
The choice of cooking equipment includes ovens, cooktops, and ranges. They come in a wide variety of shapes
and sizes, and it's not always easy to figure which model would be
right fit for your kitchen.
Types
Traditional 30” range – A single unit with cooktop above and oven
below, is an affordable, space-conserving solution still
chosen by most homeowners.
Commercial-style Stoves – Less expensive than true commercial
stoves, they mimic the style. Usually are bigger and more
powerful than most other residential stoves. It may include
six or eight burners instead of four, basting and grilling
functions, an oven or two, and built-in warming drawers.
Convection Oven – Most often electric, use heated air to cook up to twice as fast as conventional ovens that rely
on radiant heating action. You can even get a combination microwave/convection oven. These can come
in any style including wall oven or range.
Wall Ovens – The popularity of wall ovens and built-in ovens is on the rise. With this option, a separate cooktop
is located in a countertop.
Double Wall Ovens – Wall ovens separate from cooktops let you create several cooking work stations instead of
just one. A double wall oven stacks two ovens to save space and deliver twice the baking/roasting
capacity, which many people find useful for special
occasions.
Cooktop – This usually situated in a countertop with cabinets below,
which conveniently hold the pots and pans. You can even
use a cooktop directly over an oven built-in below the
counter. It’s much like a traditional range, but without the
range backsplash and with the controls on the top instead of
the front, it creates a more integrated look.
Modular Cooktops - that let you add burners, downdrafts, griddles,
deep-fry and steamer units, woks, rotisseries, and grills. And
these are just a few examples of what's available!
- 47 -
Options
Gas vs. Electric – Many serious cooks prefer gas for its instant response, precise controllability, and lower
operating cost over time. Others praise the evenness of electric heat and the lower initial cost of the appliance.
Today, you can get the best of both heating methods with "dual fuel" ranges that let you mix gas and electric heat
sources; for example, gas cooktop burners and an electric convection oven/broiler.
Coils – If gas is your choice, sealed burners are easiest to clean, and a pilotless ignition system means no hot
spot when burners are off. Electric coils come in a variety of styles and all require thick, flat-bottom cookware.
These include:
Conventional Electric Coils – Heat up and cool down slowly, but
come on the most affordable cooktops.
Solid Disk – Easier to clean up than coils, but heats up and cools
down even more slowly than coils.
Radiating Electric Coils – Smooth-surface design with coils under a
ceramic glass surface. Heats up and cools down as slowly as
conventional coils.
Halogen Burners – Operates much like a gas burner with instant
heat reduction. Halogen lamps under a ceramic glass surface.
Magnetic-Induction – Uses an electro-magnetic coil under the ceramic glass surface. This causes stainless
steel and cast iron cookware to heat up, but other materials won’t work. Operates like a gas burner with
instant heat reduction.
Controls – Traditional ranges have turn knobs on the front, but while someone in a wheelchair can reach frontsituated controls easily, unfortunately, so can a curious toddler. Some newer ranges have push buttons on the
backsplash instead. Wherever they're located, controls should be easy to understand and oper ate. Top-of-theline ovens may include electronic temperature readouts and touch-pad, rather than knob or dial, controls.
Cleaning
Dishwasher
Dishwashers can range from elegant high-end models to small, counter-top units. Choosing the right dishwasher
will depend on the features you want and the look of your kitchen.
Led by high-end, stainless-steel European models, today's
dishwashers are extremely quiet thanks to extra insulation. They're
also more energy efficient than they were in the past, using fewer
kilowatt-hours per wash cycle, less water, and an air-dry option that
doesn't require heat. To further cut energy costs, choose a dishwasher
with internal water heating; it increases temperatures to greasedissolving levels so the machine doesn't place extra demands on your
home's hot water heater.
While portable dishwashers are available, most models are built-ins
and can be concealed behind panels that match your cabinetry if you
desire. Top-of-the-line machines feature electronic touch-pad controls,
stainless-steel interiors, and special wash cycles such as crystal,
china, and pots/pans. Less-costly models employ push buttons or
combine buttons with a dial. These models usually offer three cycles:
light, normal, and heavy.
Check out the number of spray levels and directions; the greater the
number, the cleaner your dishes will get. Look for a light cycle for
china or crystal, a heavy cycle for pots and pans, and a rinse and hold cycle if the dishes will be in the washer for
a while. Also handy are adjustable racks, removable tines for large pots and removable racks so you can load
dishes outside of the dishwasher. Touchpad controls are the easiest to clean. Some models offer a soundreduction package. This is especially important if your kitchen is part of your family room.
- 48 -
Microwave Oven
After the accidental discover of the cooking power of radar waves
involving a radar technician and a Mr. Goodbar, in 1945, and the
beginning of it’s widespread residential use in the late 1970’s, the
microwave has become a mainstay in almost every kitchen in
American. Most microwave ovens have dozen of automatic cooking
functions, with sensors to time the cooking properly. Countertop
models are the cheapest, but most kitchens have a cabinet-mounted
microwave with or without a built-in vent hood for the range. There are
also microwave drawers
available to keep the
microwave out of sight.
Depending on the type of
cooktop and cooking you
do, the vent fan on some models may not be powerful enough. In this
case, a dedicated vent hood is installed over the cooktop and the
microwave is mounted on the wall with cabinets. Be sure it is in a
location that coordinates smoothly in the Kitchen Work Triangle.
Range Hoods
If you don't have a ventilation fan above your cooktop that vents to
the attic or outside, you'll want a range hood with ventilation fan
built in. Even if you don't find some cooking odors objectionable,
vaporized grease can dull beautiful new kitchen surfaces, and
moisture can compromise the efficiency of home insulation. The
solution is an updraft range hood that funnels cooking grease and
smoke into one area so that the fan can draw it through a duct to
the outside.
Filters capture additional grease and odors. Look for range hoods
that come in copper, stainless steel, and other good-looking, easycare materials, or customize a standard hood with ceramic tile or
woodwork to create a major focal point, furthering your decorating
scheme. As an alternative, down-draft ventilation, usually part of a
cooktop or grill, also employs a fan and duct arrangement.
Other Kitchen Appliances
Warming Drawer – Another common kitchen appliance
Compactor – To make it easier to take
is a Warming Drawer to keep foods hot until they are
ready to be served.
out the trash and to reduce waste size.
Wine Cooler – A separate place to store
your wines and other drinks, out of the main
refrigerator. This is one appliance that fits in
another room as well as the kitchen.
- 49 -
Countertop & Backsplash
Along with the cabinets, the countertop is the first thing that gets noticed in a kitchen or bathroom. There is also a
wide range of functionality. Some you can put a hot pan on, some you can’t. Some resist stains well and others
don’t. Drop a can of soup out of the cabinet on some countertops and the surface will chip or crack, some you
don’t have to worry about that. Luckily there are many options to choose from to compliment just about any
design, budget, and lifestyle.
It's also important to give some consideration to the Backsplash when choosing your countertop. Although a
backsplash isn't necessary, it's a great way to pull together all the elements of your design. The backsplash also
protects the wall from food splashes and water damage. It should be stain resistant and easy to clean.
The backsplash is also a good place to use color and design to tie the whole room together. For example, if you
have copper knobs on your cabinets, or a copper sink, you can incorporate copper accent tiles into your
backsplash to create a cohesive look. Or say you have a black granite countertop, you might choose a white tile
backsplash to brighten up the room. A backsplash is also a great way of adding expensive-looking detail, without
too much expense.
Laminate
Laminates such as Formica® are the most economical choice for
kitchen countertops. They consist of a layer of laminate material
glued to a plywood or particle board base. They are inexpensive,
durable, easy to maintain, and they come in a wide array of
colors and patterns. It has the advantage of being one of the few
materials that resist dropping something on it without any
damage.
Avoid high gloss finishes on darker colors as this will show
scratches more. You can also choose custom laminate which
has the color going all the way through the countertop. This
option is more expensive, but easier to repair if you should get
deep stains, cuts or burns. A 4” backsplash of the same material is normally used.
Pros – Cheap, easy to clean and maintain, multitudes of styles and colors, resists stains, easy to install yourself,
readily available.
Cons – Hot pans burn it, knives cut through it, can’t be repaired, edge-banding can come unglued.
Ceramic Tile
Ceramic Tile is another popular countertop choice. The vast array of
colors, sizes, styles and textures (and the ability to mix and match)
makes it easy to realize the exact look you're going for. You can use
wall or floor tiles for your countertop. Wall tiles come in more styles,
but floor tiles are more durable. Just remember to choose
something that is at least 1/4" thick for best durability, 3/8” is better.
If you're mixing and matching tiles made sure they are all the same
thickness! Most tiles will come with matching edging and accent
options as well. Make sure you choose tiles that have a gloss or
matte finish and avoid ones that absorb water.
- 50 -
For a tile backsplash any type of grout is normally appropriate, either sanded, unsanded, or epoxy. For a tile
countertop, some people will use a sanded polymer grout. An unsanded grout should never be used, since it’s
not nearly as solid and won’t last. A sanded grout needs to be sealed every couple of years. The best type of
grout to use is an epoxy grout. It costs a little more and takes a little extra time, but it pays off in the long run. It’s
much harder, is impervious to liquids, resists staining well, and never needs to be sealed. Give special
consideration to grout colors, since the grout can be the downfall of tile. In heavy use areas your bright white
grout may not stay bright white for long. Whatever color you choose, make sure that you keep it clean to avoid
stains.
Pros – Comes in a huge selection of colors, styles, patterns and textures. It's durable, easy to clean, moisture
and heat resistant, inexpensive and you can add a few expensive tiles to dress it up. Often used for
backsplashs with other types of countertops. Resists heat well.
Cons – Grout can stain and look dingy even after cleaning, tiles can crack or chip.
Stone – Granite or Marble
Granite is the stone used most for countertops because of its,
smooth, cool surface, its beauty, and its durability. You can
choose large slabs, which will be expensive or you can use
smaller tiles as a cheaper option for nearly the same look. Smaller
tiles also allow you more design options.
Granite is also a good choice for an inset (a small part of the
countertop reserved for pastry making, for example) on another
type of countertop, such as tile. It also makes a dramatic looking
backsplash. Marble is not the best choice for an entire
countertop, since it’s soft and stains easily, but works well as a
pastry inset or backsplash.
Natural stone needs to be sealed every couple of years with a proper sealer to ensure it keeps it’s shine and
smoothness for many years.
Pros – Very durable, beautiful, easy to clean, good for pastry inserts within other types of countertops. Resists
heat well.
Cons – Expensive, must be polished and sealed regularly to avoid looking dull, Marble stains more easily than
Granite.
Solid Surface
Solid-Surface Materials (such as Corian®) are also a good
choice in Kitchens and Bathrooms. They come in a myriad of
colors and patterns, some made to look like stone. Like stone,
they have a clean, smooth feel, are very durable, and easy to
maintain. With solid-surface materials the color or design is
throughout, so stains can easily be sanded out (check with the
manufacturer).
Solid-Surface can be custom cut and edged for a more designed
look. It works well for incorporating a sink and/or backsplash into
the countertop. As with laminates, avoid high gloss finishes on
darker colors. And be aware that solid-surface material requires
professional installation - the company will usually void any
warrantee if it is not installed by a licensed contractor.
Pros – Durable, many colors, styles, and patterns to choose from. Sink and/or backsplash can be integrated.
Easy to clean and touch up (with steel wool or sandpaper - check with manufacturer).
Cons – It's fairly expensive, and won’t withstand heat. Solid-surface requires installation by a licensed contractor.
- 51 -
Metal (Stainless Steel, Copper, Brass, and Zinc)
Metal Countertops have gained in popularity in the last decade.
Stainless Steel is the most common because it's stainless. It's very
durable and often used in commercial kitchens. Copper, Brass and
Zinc are all used and can give a wonderful contemporary look.
Metal is an expensive choice and can scratch easily. If you want to
incorporate metal into your kitchen design, but are concerned about
cost and scratches, consider using it as a range hood or backsplash
(either solid or incorporated into a tile design) instead.
Pros – Stainless Steel is just that – stainless. Copper, Brass and Zinc are beautiful and unusual. Great for putting
hot pans on. Great for backsplash, especially behind the cooktop.
Cons – Expensive, aside from stainless, it can be hard to find, shows nicks and scratches.
Wood – Butcher Block
Hard Rock Maple is Best, Red or White Oak or Beech are Good too.
Butcher Block Countertops are made of strips of hardwood that are
glued together. Hard Rock Maple is the Best Choice for its durable,
tight fine grain. Red or White Oak and Beech are good options too.
A Butcher Block Countertop must be treated periodically with a good,
non-toxic oil, such as pure tung oil. Butcher block is not a good
choice for using next to sinks or other wet areas because it can stain
and rot from water damage. It's very well-suited to use as a cutting
board inset on other types of counters. Just make sure to clean it
well after every use with vinegar or lemon juice to keep it sanitary. It
resists damage from impacts better than any other materials, plus
any marks just add character.
Pros – Warm, homey look, can be sanded, great for chopping, easy to maintain, great for a cutting board insert
within another type of countertop.
Cons – Must be oiled regularly, hard to keep sanitary, shouldn’t be used next to sinks or near water because of
staining and wood rot.
Soapstone
Soapstone is another beautiful and unusual choice. It doesn't stain,
but must be sealed with mineral oil from time to time to keep it
looking good. It's soft, so prone to scratches. But you can place hot
pots right on it. It works best as a smaller area next to the oven
and/or cooktop, when the rest of the countertop is made from a heatsensitive material.
Pros – Won’t stain, you can put hot pots on it.
Cons – Must be sealed regularly with mineral oil, scratches easier
than granite.
- 52 -
Concrete
Concrete is another material that is gaining in popularity. It is very
versatile and can be colored, scored, or textured to create many looks.
You can make your own sculptural countertop by embedding small
tiles, shells or anything that strikes your fancy into the concrete before
it is sealed. Don't be fooled by its rustic-sounding nature though. In
order to look good, and perform well, concrete must be installed by a
professional.
Pros – Can be colored or textured to create many looks. Tiles, shells,
or other objects can be embedded for a unique look.
Cons – Must be regularly sealed. Can stain from spills.
Lavastone
Lavastone is enameled and fired. It resists water and scratches and
can take the heat, but can be very expensive and hard to find.
Pros – Resists water damage and scratching, you can put hot pots
on it.
Cons – Very expensive and hard to find.
Glass
Glass Countertops can make for a dramatic effect in a kitchen,
especially with under-counter lights. A glass artist can make a
masterpiece of glass art with their techniques and colors they mix.
Single colored countertops are also available.
Pros – Hard and stain-proof. Hot pots can be put on it. Difficult to
scratch.
Cons – Can be chipped or cracked. Expensive. Cannot be repaired.
- 53 -
The Kitchen Sink
When buying a sink for your kitchen there are many factors to consider. Sinks do far more than just provide cold
and hot water. You must also consider water purifiers, garbage disposals, and what material you want your sink
made out of. Sink shape and size are important, and when checking out a sink's size, pay attention to its depth,
too. Bargain sinks may be six or seven inches deep, where eight inches is the standard and ten inches is
preferable if you wash a lot of stockpots, pasta pots, and roasters.
When measuring for your sink keep in mind that as a rule it is best to have about 36” of counter space on one
side and 18” on the other side of your sink.
If space and budget allow, you may want to consider adding a second sink. You can put dirty dishes in one and
wash and prep food in another. Islands, pantries or bar areas (great for ice!) are ideal places for additional sinks.
You may want to choose a durable workhorse for your primary sink and something more delicate or decorative as
your second sink.
Sink Configurations
Single, large rectangular basin – For tight spaces, small households or
rarely used kitchens.
Double-bowled sink – A double bowl has more versatility. They come either
with both sinks the same size for hand-washing and rinsing, or with
one side considerably smaller, housing the garbage disposer.
Three-bowl sinks – Where two larger bowls flank a small, center bowl with
the garbage disposer. This bowl is often topped with a removable
cutting board.
Corner Sink – In space-challenged
kitchens, a pair of matching "cornersquare" sinks can make use of an awkward corner and free up straight runs of
counter for work space.
Corner Circle sinks – Serve the same function but have a more avant-garde
look.
Small Square or Round sink – May be used as a vegetable sink in an island
or as a bar sink for a wet bar in the great room. Some kitchens also feature a
small, shallow, kidney-shaped sink as a second, accessory sink.
Sink Mount Styles
Self-rimming sinks – The most common kind, the lip of the sink overhangs
the surface of the countertop on all sides.
Integral sink – Usually made with solid-surfacing material, is simply a
continuation of your countertop. You can also get short-run counters in
stainless steel with an integral, stainless-steel sink. The advantage of
an integral sink is that it's seamless, with no rim to trap dirt or water.
Under-mount sinks – Another rimless option features sink bowls fused to the
underside of the counter. This should not be used with laminate
counters but works well with solid surfacing, stone, or stainless steel.
- 54 -
Materials
Once you choose the shape and size of your sink based on function, your next decision lies in the wide array of
available materials. Take the time to choose a sink that is durable and versatile enough for your needs, but also
suits your taste and design.
Stainless Steel
Stainless steel, a material that has been popular since the 1950s,
is sleek, contemporary, and stain resistant. Thicker gauge
Stainless Steel (18-gauge) is more expensive than thinner gauge
(22-gauge), but is stronger and resists dents, water spots and
scratches. The higher the nickel content, the smoother and shinier
the sink will look, but it will also be more expensive. Stainless
steel is easy to clean, and comes in a wide array of gauges and
shapes. Thinner gauges are more affordable, but better suited to
kitchens that will be used less.
Pros - Durable, easy to clean. Thinner gauges very affordable. Thick gauges resist water spots and dents and
conceal scratches. High nickel content gives it a smooth and shiny look. These sinks come in rectangular,
round and contoured shapes.
Cons - Thinner Gauges - Dent easily, show water spots and scratches, are high maintenance.
Thicker Gauges - Higher nickel content and round or contoured shapes are more expensive.
Enameled Cast Iron
Enameled Cast Iron has a substantial, traditional look, and comes in
many colors and styles to match your décor. It retains heat well, which
is great if you hand-wash your dishes. It's durable, although it can be
chipped by a heavy pot hitting against it. Once it chips the black cast
iron underneath will show through. If you expect a lot of wear and tear,
you may want to put something protective, such as a drain board, at
the bottom of your cast iron sink, which is where most chipping occurs.
Standard white sinks are very affordable. Special ordered colors and
shapes will be more expensive. If you buy this type of sink, purchase a
sink protector to put in the bottom of the sink to protect against
chipping and staining.
Pros - Has a substantial, traditional look, comes in many colors and styles, retains heat - good for hand-washing
dishes, white is affordable.
Cons - Durable, but prone to chipping, very heavy - make sure your countertop can support it. Do-it-yourselfers
should get help buying, transporting and installin g this type of sink. Unforgiving for dishes, colors and
contoured shapes can be pricey.
Enameled Steel - Resembles cast iron, but thinner.
Enameled Steel resembles cast iron, but is thinner and more flexible. It
comes in many colors, is much lighter than cast iron (easier to install),
is low maintenance and affordable. On the down side, it is thin, can be
prone to flexing and chipping and is generally not recommended for
use with a garbage disposal, as it vibrates too easily.
Pros - Comes in many colors, much lighter than cast iron (easier to
install), low maintenance, affordable.
Cons - Thin, prone to flexing and chipping, not recommended with
garbage disposal unit - it vibrates too easily and can be noisy.
- 55 -
Solid Surface Materials
Solid-surfacing sinks (such as Corian®) are rimless and are
seamlessly fused to the adjacent solid-surfacing counter. A
handsome contemporary solution that's relatively easy to clean and
repair, solid surfacing offers good color selection and color that goes
all the way through. Solid-surfacing sinks cost more than metal ones
and require professional installation.
Solid Surface Materials, such as Corian®, can be integrated with a
countertop or drain board (of the same or a complimenting color) for
a smooth, seamless look. Made to replicate marble or granite, they
are durable, stain resistant, and available in many colors. They are
also generally low-maintenance and very sanitary. Because the color
runs all the way through the material, minor scratches and burns can
be sanded out – although you have to be careful with hot pots as the
material can burn. These can also be pricey, especially if you decide
to integrate your countertop or drain board.
Quartz composite sinks, a relatively new material, feature color all the way through, good color choices, and the
option of a realistic granite look. Like solid surfacing, quartz composite is both stain- and scratch-resistant.
Pros - Can be integrated with countertop or drain board, durable, stain resistant, comes in many colors, scratches
and burns can be sanded out, very sanitary and low maintenance.
Cons - Must be installed by a professional, hot pans burn it, integrated countertop with sink is more expensive.
Fire Clay
Imported from Europe, is becoming increasingly available. It is a highfired, glazed ceramic, with the look of cast iron, but is harder and more
durable. It has a nice glossy finish and is low maintenance, but you will
find limited sizes and colors. It is also hard on dishes and can chip or
crack. Always keep in mind that special order items from overseas can
slow down your project while you're waiting for them to arrive.
Pros - Durable, glossy finish, low maintenance.
Cons - Limited sizes and colors, can chip, hard on dishes, expensive.
An imported item that's not standard can slow down your job while
you're waiting for it to come in from overseas.
Soapstone
A light grey stone which darkens with age. It's wonderful for a
timeless country kitchen, as well as for very modern applications.
Its smooth, fine texture is easy to maintain, retains heat well and
is good for hot pots. However, it can be scratched.
Pros - Smooth texture, creates a custom look, retains heat well,
good for hot pots, fairly easy to maintain.
Cons - Expensive, can scratch.
- 56 -
Slate and Granite
These materials for sinks can also create beautiful custom looks in
both traditional and contemporary settings. Slate is somewhat harder
to maintain than granite or soapstone. If you decide on Granite buy the
hardest granite you can find, since softer granite can stain or etch.
Pros - Creates a custom look, slate is harder to maintain than granite
or soapstone, both are hard on dishes.
Cons - Softer granite can stain or etch, expensive.
Metal - German Silver, Brass and Copper
In addition to stainless steel many other beautiful metals are also
becoming increasingly available. Brass, Copper and German Silver
(which is a fine white silver) make beautiful additions to kitchens and
can be excellent choices for second sinks as well. The thicker gauges
are very durable and can work with traditional or modern décor. Keep
in mind though, that these metals can be very high-maintenance if you
want to keep them shiny and new-looking.
Pros - Creates a custom look, thicker gauges are very durable, works
in traditional or modern décor.
Cons - Very expensive, high maintenance if you want it shiny and
new-looking.
Sink Accessories
Faucets
Do skimp on your choice of Faucets, handles, and other sink fittings. The low cost ones are made very cheaply
and may not last even a few years before the seals begin to leak or not function properly. Separate pull-out
sprayers that mount on the sink deck are great for washing large pots or watering plants. You can also get this
benefit with some European models in which the faucet head itself is the pull-out sprayer. Euro-style, single-fitting
faucets have no bottom plate or deck, unlike U.S. models, and require only one hole in the sink or countertop.
American faucets include tall, gooseneck designs that make washing deep pots a breeze.
Water Purifiers
In the United States, most tap water is safe to drink, but contamination caused by heavy metals, microbes, radon,
and industrial and agricultural waste is always a possibility. Carbon filters are the most popular water purifiers,
removing residual chlorine, organic chemicals, mercury, and dissolved radon. There are many manufacturers who
offer faucets with filters built right in. You can also have a separate thin water faucet for the purified water.
Garbage Disposals
Food waste disposers are considered basic in many kitchen remodelings. Choose either continuous feed,
operated by an on/off switch under the sink cabinet or on the wall; or batch feed, activated once the stopper is
securely closed and turned. Continuous-feed units are more readily available and less expensive than batch-feed
models but are more costly to install. Neither one is "better" than the other; it's a matter of personal choice and
preference.
Other
Instant hot-water dispenser, a small electric heater under the sink that provides 190-degree water.
Lotion/soap dispenser
- 57 -
Paint Colors
The paint colors you choose for the walls, ceiling, and trim can have a big effect on the look of the kitchen. In
most kitchens about half of the square footage of all surfaces in the kitchen are painted. Choosing a paint color
combination that is well coordinated with the colors of the cabinets, flooring, countertops, etc. will help to pull all of
the elements in the kitchen together.
Choosing Paint Colors
Finding an Inspiration
Looking through pictures of other kitchens is a great way to get an idea of what different colors look like in a
kitchen. One technique for choosing colors is by selecting three colors from some of the existing objects in your
home (a pillow from the family-room sofa, your favorite tie or scarf, or a painting). Choose one of the three paint
colors as your wall color and save the other two to be used as accent colors (fabric, furnishings, etc.). Be sure
that will coordinate or contrast effectively with each other.
Choosing your Colors
Match the object against sample card to find the hue.
Look at the darkest color at the bottom of the strip. If
you can like the one at the bottom, you know you'll like
the middle and top, but if you choose by looking at the
top, lightest colors, all the cards in that category start
to look the same. Once you pick a hue, choose one or
two shades lighter than you think you want it. Colors
always look darker on a full wall than a small swatch.
The best way to find a color you can live with is to
paint a 4-by-4-foot swatch on the wall and live with it
for at least 24 to 48 hours so you can see it in natural
and artificial light. You can even do this with a few
shades to see the contrast.
Paint Finish
Once you have chosen your colors, consider the finish you'll be using. Though today's flat paints have increased
stain resistance, conventional wisdom has long held that a satin (also called eggshell) finish is best for walls
because it is scrubbable and doesn't draw attention to imperfections. Semi-gloss and high-gloss finishes, it was
thought, were best left to the trim, where they could accent the curves of a molding profile or the panels of a door.
Today, however, finishes are also being used to create visual effects on the entire wall. Paint one wall in a flat or
satin finish and the adjacent wall in a semi-gloss, both in the same color, and "when the light hits the walls, it
creates a corduroy or velvet effect," says Doty Horn. Similarly, you can paint the walls flat and the ceiling semigloss to achieve a matte and sheen contrast. (The ceiling will feel higher the more light-reflective it is.) Keep in
mind that the higher the gloss, the more sheen and the more attention you draw to the surface. Used strategically,
color and gloss together can emphasize your interior's best assets.
Ceiling
Consider the ceiling the fifth wall of a room. Though sticking to "ceiling white" generally makes a space feel airy, a
similar effect can be achieved by painting the ceiling a lighter shade of the wall color. Just take the paint sample
card that has your wall color as the middle choice, then go one or two choices lighter for the ceiling color. The
result will be a room that appears larger, because the contrast between wall color and ceiling color has been
softened. In a small room, such as a bathroom, the ceiling can even be painted the same color as the walls to
make it look bigger.
- 58 -
Color Wheel
A useful tool for choosing paint colors is the
color wheel, which is constructed to help you
see the relationships between different hues.
Becoming familiar with the color wheel can
help you understand how to best mix and
match a cool color with a warm one, for a
naturally balanced room.
• The bases are the three Primary
colors: red, blue and yellow.
• These are then combined to make the
three Secondary colors: orange,
green, and purple.
• Finally, the remaining six colors on the
wheel are known as Tertiary colors
and are mixes of the secondary
colors, including such hues as redorange and blue-green.
Color Wheel Schemes
Monochromatic color scheme – A
monochromatic color scheme consists of
different values (tints and shades) of one
single color. Ex. Painting window and
door moldings a different shade of an off-white wall color.
Analogous color scheme – Analogous colors are colors that are adjacent to each other on the color wheel, such
as yellow green. Analogous color schemes are often found in nature and are pleasing to the eye. The
combination of these colors give a bright and cheery effect in the area, and are able to accommodate many
changing moods. When using the analogous color scheme, one should make sure there is one hue as the
main color.
Complementary color scheme – Complementary colors are colors that are opposite each other on the color
wheel, such as blue and orange. Complementary color schemes have a more energetic feel. The high
contrast between the colors creates a vibrant look. When put together, they bring out the best in each other,
making both colors look cleaner and brighter. Complementary colors can be tricky to use in large doses.
Split-analogous color scheme – A color scheme that includes a main color and the two colors one space away
from it on each side of the color wheel. An example is red, blue, and violet.
Split-complementary color scheme – A color scheme that includes a main color and the two colors on each
side of its complementary (opposite) color on the color wheel. These are the colors that are one hue and two
equally spaced from its complement. This could be used as an accent piece. Ex. red/violet, yellow, and green.
Triadic color scheme – A color scheme in which 3 colors of equidistant distribution on the color wheel are used,
e.g., red, blue, and yellow.
Tetradic color scheme – Tetrads (or quadrads) are any four colors with a logical relationship on the color wheel,
such as double complements.
Neutral color scheme – A color scheme that includes only colors not found on the color wheel, called neutrals,
such as beige, brown, gray, black and white.
Accented neutral color scheme – A color scheme that includes neutral colors, like white, beige, brown, grey,
light brown or black, and one or more small doses of other colors. Ex. brown and beige with blue, gray and
black with red.
Warm and cool color schemes – Warm color schemes do not include blue at all, and likewise, cool color
schemes do not include red at all. For example, a color scheme that includes "warmer" colors may have
orange, yellow, and red-orange in it. "Cooler" colors are green, violet, light blue, etc.
- 59 -
Other Color Ideas
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
For subtle emphasis, paint molding or doorways just one step lighter or darker than the primary wall.
Paint a metallic glaze on top of an existing painted element, like a ceiling medallion, to draw attention.
For a bolder approach, try using two different colors in the same room.
Elements can provide continuity throughout a house if they are painted the same color in every room.
A room containing wainscot provides a good opportunity for a contrast between light and dark.
o Dark wainscot below a bright wall will draw attention to the upper walls
o Bright white wainscot next to a colored wall will focus the eye on the wainscot
o You can also use paint to create the effect of wainscot where it doesn't exist by covering the
bottom third of the wall in one color and the upper walls in another; then install a piece of chair rail
molding along the intersection and paint it the color of the lower wall.
Where rooms are relatively featureless, painting an "accent wall" in a vivid hue, or a darker color, where
the others are white or neutral can add a dramatic, contemporary edge.
One of the most effective ways to use color to transform a room is to play up its architectural features.
Molding, mantels, built-in bookcases, arched doorways, wainscot, windows, and doors all offer an
opportunity to add another layer of interest to colored walls.
Color Trends
http://yourhomeonlybetter.com/color-trends-for-2011/
http://yourhomeonlybetter.com/color-trends-for-2012-balance-to-preservation/
Digital Color Wheel
http://www.paintquality.com/homeowners/paint-design/paint-color/wheel.html
http://www.paintquality.com/homeowners/paint-design/paint-color/color-designer-home.html
Color Galleries
Brilliant Interior Paint Color Schemes - http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/photos/0,,1195208,00.html
Colorful Kitchens - http://www.housebeautiful.com/kitchens/colorful-kitchens
- 60 -
Lighting
While kitchens of a couple of decades ago were often with a single ceiling light fixture, the modern kitchen uses
multiple levels of lighting to create a pleasant atmosphere and functional work space. No single light source can
provide all the necessary light for a kitchen. A well-lit kitchen layers and blends four different categories of light.
Depending on how a particular type of light fixture is placed, it can function as a different category of light. Every
kitchen remodel should include the following:
Task Lighting
It is the workhorse of illumination and provides adequate light for tasks like chopping vegetables and
reading recipes. Optimum placement of task lighting comes between a person's head and the work
surface, which makes lighting located below the upper cabinets so effective. If a kitchen remodel includes
a pantry, make sure to specify task lighting there as well.
Under-cabinet Lights
Over-the-Island Task Lights
Ambient lighting
It creates a warm glow that fills a room, softens shadows and helps to make people feel instantly
welcome in a kitchen. If cabinets do not reach all the way to the ceiling, that space is a great spot for
ambient light. Of the four types of lighting, ambient is most often overlooked.
Flush-mounted ceiling fixtures
Recessed ceiling light fixtures
Pendant hanging over the island
Adjustable track lighting.
Accent lighting
It gives depth and dimension to a kitchen.
Fixtures inside glass-front cabinets to illuminate China, glassware, and other collections
Adjustable low-voltage fixtures used to spotlight art
Over-cabinet Lighting
Wall Sconces
Coffered Ceiling Lights
Decorative lighting
Some lighting is purely decorative. It adds sparkle to a space.
Sconces
Chandeliers
Christmas lights
Light Strips
Candles even count as decorative lighting.
Ceiling Fan
If you do much cooking in a kitchen, then you know how hot it can get. The pleasant relief of a cool
breeze can make the kitchen feel much better. With or without a light fixture, a ceiling fan is a great
addition to a kitchen.
- 61 -
Accessories
Accessories – Small Appliances, Spick Rack, Towel Bar, etc.
Here is a list of other products which may be right for your kitchen. They can provide functionality and
convenience to your kitchen.
Adjustable Drawer Dividers
Appliance Garage
Bread Box
CD/DVD Roll-out
Chopping Block
Cleaning Supply Pull-out
Computer Key Drawer
Cookware Roll-out
Cutlery Divider
Cup Holder
Cutting Board
Deep Roll-out Trays
Drawer Organizer
File Cabinet
Knife Section Divider
Lazy Susan
Microwave Cabinet
Mixer Stand
Pantry Storage
Paper Towel Holder
Pots & Pans Organizer
Pull-out Table
Recycling
Roll-out Shelves
Sink Base Door Storage
Spice Drawer Insert
Spice Rack
Stem Glass Holder
Tambour Storage
Tiered Drawer Storage
Towel Bar
Tray Dividers
Utility Cabinet
Vanity Hamper
Vanity Pull-out
Vegetable Bin
Wastebasket
Wicker baskets
Wine Shelf
Accessories – Music, TV, Lighting, etc.
For those who want even more in the kitchen, then there are a wide range of other options. Music can come from
radio stations, HD radio, IPod, Smart Phone, Media Server, etc. The speakers can be mounted in the ceiling or
hidden. Music controls are can be either on a wall or by remote. Often the kitchen is the center of the household,
so intercom systems and home automation systems often have their main keypad/touch-screen in the kitchen. A
TV can be used to bring you cable broadcasts or DVD movies, either standalone or tied into the main home
entertainment system. There are also different lighting options including small accent lights, rope lights, colored
lights, under and over-cabinet lighting, faucets which light the stream depending on the temperature of the water,
translucent countertops and sinks which light up from underneath, etc. There are new exciting products coming
out every year.
- 62 -
Research / Catalogs
Design
The National Association of Realtors and Remodeling magazine 2010-11 Cost vs. Value Report
remodeling.hw.net/2010/costvsvalue/division/south-atlantic/city/washington--dc.aspx
www.kitchens.com
Design Style Ideas
Design Styles Inspiration Galleries
NKBA Inspiration Gallery – nkba.org/Dream.aspx
HGTV Designers Portfolio – hgtv.com/designers-portfolio/kitchens/index.html
Kitchens.com Gallery – kitchens.com/photos.aspx
Kitchen Style Quiz – kitchens.com/design/kitchen-styles/whats-my-style-quiz.aspx
NKBA Kitchen Trends for 2011 – http://www.kitchenbathdesign.com/print/Kitchen-and-Bath-Design-News/NKBAIdentifies-Growing-Trends-for-2011/2$5739
www.nkba.org
National Kitchen and Bath Association
Tile & Grout
Tile Selections
daltile.com
morristile.com
metalwalltiles.net
subwaytile.com
Tile Patterns
daltileproducts.com/tile_patterns.cfm
Grout Manufacturers and Color Cards
laticrete.com
mapei.com
flooranddecoroutlets.com
Products
Cabinet Websites
www.kraftmaid.com
www.americanwoodmark.com
www.thomasvillecabinetry.com
www.woodmark-homedepot.com www.merillat.com
www.designercabinetsonline.com
Flooring
www.empiretoday.com
In-home Consultation
www.lumberliquidators.com
Retail Store
www.carpetone.com
Retail Store
www.mrfloor.us
Retail Store
www.prosourcefloors.com
Retail Store – Mid-High End Products
Appliances
www.sears.com
www.brayandscarff.com
www.homedepot.com
www.lowes.com
Countertops and Backsplashes
www.besttile.com
www.springfieldmarble.com
www.graniteforless.com
Kitchen Sink
www.faucetdirect.com
www.efaucet.com
www.kitchenbath.com
www.csnstores.com
www.fixtureuniverse.com (atgstores.com)
Paint
www.behr.com
www.sherwin-williams.com
Color Trends
http://yourhomeonlybetter.com/color-trends-for-2011/
http://yourhomeonlybetter.com/color-trends-for-2012-balance-to-preservation/
Digital Color Wheel
http://www.paintquality.com/homeowners/paint-design/paint-color/wheel.html
http://www.paintquality.com/homeowners/paint-design/paint-color/color-designer-home.html
Color Galleries
Brilliant Interior Paint Color Schemes - http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/photos/0,,1195208,00.html
Colorful Kitchens - http://www.housebeautiful.com/kitchens/colorful-kitchens
Lights
lightinguniverse.com
lightingdirect.com
Accessories - Small Appliances, Spick Rack, Towel Bar, etc.
www.csnstores.com
www.ikea.com
www.potterybarn.com
Accessories - Music, TV, Lighting, etc.
www.legrand.us/residential/bathroom-solutions.aspx
www.videotree.com
www.onq.com
- 63 -
lightolier.com (Recessed Lights)
www.akitchen.com
www.evervue.com
www.control4.com
Services and Rates
*These rates are an approximate cost for labor and building materials. The cost of the products you choose are not included.
These costs are shown for budgeting purposes only. Each house is unique and actual rates may vary. Trip charges, material
delivery, and non-standard building material requirements will be extra.
Complete Kitchen Remodel in standard 10’x12’ kitchen (all inclusive)
Low
Mid
High
$15,000-25,000
$25,000-50,000
$50,000+
$800-1500
$2300
$1800
$300
$450
$35 ea. (≤ 8ft.)
$300 per 25sq.ft.
$125 per 25sq.ft.
Full Kitchen Demo and Waste Removal
Install and finish new drywall in standard 10’x12’ kitchen (inc. all materials)
Prime and Paint 2 coats in standard 10’x12’ kitchen (inc. all materials)
Prime and Paint 1 side of door and door frame white – Replace hinges and hardware
Repair 1’ hole in 8’x10’ wall/ceiling – Paint to match
Shim wall studs or floor joists to straighten for tile
1.25” Subfloor Installation for tile
Tile backerboard or Ditra installation
Tile Installation (inc. cement-based polymer grout – not inc. tile cost)
12”x12” Floor
$16/sq.ft.
6”x6” Floor
$20/sq.ft.
1” Mosaic Floor
$35/sq.ft.
8”x12” Wall
$16/sq.ft.
4”x4” Wall
$25/sq.ft.
1” Mosaic Wall
$35/sq.ft.
Recessed Tiled Shelf
$250-300 ea.
Surface-Mounted Shelf/Soap-dish
$75 ea.
Cabinet Installation inc. Framing Supports, Moldings, and Kickplate (Avg. Cabinet Cost $300-800 ea.)
Base Cabinet – 12-24”
$120-170
Wall Cabinet – 12-24”
$130-180
Base Cabinet – 24-36”
$140-190
Wall Cabinet – 24-36”
$150-200
Cabinet Knobs/Pulls
$7 ea.
Countertops (all inclusive)
Granite or Solid Surface
$70-150/sq.ft.
Laminate
$30-70/sq.ft.
Flooring (cost of flooring, underlayment, and other prep is not included)
Vinyl Tile
$2-4/sq.ft.
Sheet Vinyl
$2-5/sq.ft.
Laminate (floating)
$4-6/sq.ft.
Prefinished Hardwood (nailed down, glued)
$6-7/sq.ft.
Appliance Install (doesn’t include delivery to adjacent room)
Refrigerator & Water line (includes running copper line <8ft)
$225
Dishwasher (water and electric hookup to existing lines w/ new supply line)
$180
Electric Stove (includes new plug & receptacle)
$160
Gas Stove (includes new supply line)
$150
Over-the-Range Microwave
$100
Garbage Disposal
$80
Replacement of kitchen sink plumbing fixtures and move stub-out of existing lines 2 ft. or less,
including faucet and shutoff valves
$500-1200
New 20A electrical circuit from panel to bathroom (not including drywall repairs)
$250-400
Replace switches and wallplate
$15 ea.
Replace GFI receptacle and wallplate
$50
New Recessed Light – not over water (inc. Lightolier light, trim, & bulb)
$110
New Recessed Light – over water (inc. Lightolier light, trim, & bulb)
$150-200
Install new wiring and wiring boxes
$40-140 ea. line
New Baseboards – Installation, Caulk, Paint (inc. standard-sized pine baseboards)
$8/ft.
New Base Tile – Installation and Grout
$8/ft.
Replace HVAC vent cover
$40
New Access Panel
$50-200
Wainscot Installation – Sheets (inc. caulk, prime, and paint white semi-gloss)
$450 per 8ln.ft.
- 64 -
Kitchen Design Rates
Basic Design Package
$350
•
Initial Consultation to discuss plans and budget.
•
1-2 Design Meetings to finalize decisions on product choices and ordering timelines.
•
Basic 2D CAD Plans necessary for construction
Intermediate Design Package
$650
•
Initial Consultation to discuss plans and budget.
•
Initial Design Meeting to discuss available products choices, styles, and other ideas. Further thought
and research can be conducted by the Client after this meeting.
•
Accompany Client to Meeting with Kitchen Cabinet Designer.
•
Additional Design Meeting to finalize decisions on product choices and ordering timelines.
•
Basic 2D CAD Plans necessary for permits.
Advanced Design Package
$1200+
•
Initial Consultation to discuss plans and budget.
•
Initial Design Meeting with a licensed Interior Designer to discuss available products choices, styles,
and other ideas. Further thought and research can be conducted by the Client after this meeting.
•
1-2 Additional Design Meetings to finalize decisions on product choices and ordering timelines.
•
Professionally drafted 2D CAD Plans
Premium Design Package
$2000+
•
Initial Consultation to discuss plans and budget.
•
Initial Design Meeting with a licensed Interior Designer to discuss available products choices, styles,
and other ideas. Further thought and research can be conducted by the Client after this meeting.
•
1-2 Additional Design Meeting(s) with the Interior Designer and/or Contractor to finalize decisions
on product choices and ordering timelines.
•
Professionally drafted 2D CAD Plans
•
Professionally made 3D Presentation
* Additional Design Meetings, Changes to Plans, and Shopping Assistance will be charged at $50/hr. + mileage & expenses.
- 65 -