2004 Buck Knife Guide

CHOOSING THE
RIGHT KNIFE
A GENERAL REFERENCE MANUAL FOR
CHOOSING THE RIGHT KNIFE
PAGE #
02
WELCOME
When shopping for a knife, you may not know exactly what you
want or need. We’ve put together this basic guide, which we
believe provides enough information to help you choose the knife
the best fits your personal needs.
There are many different types of knives from which to choose
and many different factors to consider. Blade and handle
materials, blade shape, serrations, fixed-blade or folding are all
considerations. And, of course, how you plan to use the knife is
important - is it for specific activities or for general, everyday use?
You’ll find answers to most of your questions in this step-by-step
guide, starting with a glossary of knife terminology all the way to
explanation of knife care and sharpening.
At Buck Knives, we’ve been making knives since 1902, always
with the goal of providing reliable, efficient knives that not only
meet, but exceed expectations. Of course, we back every knife
we make with a solid, no hassle, Lifetime Guarantee.
Naturally, we hope you will choose a Buck knife. But, most
important, we appreciate your interest in knives and hope you
find just the knife you want.
Chuck Buck
CJ Buck
Why Use This Guidebook?
Buying a knife may be compared to making a knife. Our
intention with this guidebook is to take you, step-by-step,
through the process of knifemaking. From the terminology,
properties and materials through manufacturing, you’ll learn
what it takes to make quality knives for a variety of activities.
With this background knowledge, you will be better prepared
to make the right decision for your knife needs.
PAGE #
04
TABLE OF CONTENTS
The End Use - Features & Functions
In this section we offer some suggestions on what to look for
in a knife, depending on what you will use it for.
05
4 Steps to Buying the Right Knife
We offer a 4-Step process that will help you through the decison-making
process. This will help you choose the right knife for your need.
06
Blade Properties & Terminology
This section provides a useful review of the essential properties of blade
steels and the appropriate terminology to discuss them.
10
Blade & Handle Materials
You will find an outline of the wide range of materials used in the
manufacturing of knives – blades and handles.
14
The Making of a Blade (Manufacturing Processes)
This may be the most important aspect of knife making, and we cover
everything from heat-treating to edging.
18
Types of Knives / Blade Shapes
There are many different “types of knives” and blade shapes available.
We briefly describe the differences.
23
Sheaths, Knife Care & Lifetime Warranty
Even the best knife needs proper care to perform reliably over a long
period of time, including the recommended sharpening procedure.
26
Quality & Craftsmanship - The Finishing Touch
In this section we outline some of the things to look for in a knife to
ensure that it stands up to the quality you expect.
PAGE #
04
THE END USE
FEATURES & FUNCTIONS
EveryDay Carry Knives
They need to be compact, easy to carry and versatile. They usually cater to
an individual’s sense of taste and style. These knives are used primarily for
everyday tasks such as opening boxes and trimming threads.
EveryDay Utility Knives
They need to be rugged and strong enough to hold up under
demanding use.
Outdoor Knives
To meet the needs of backpackers, hikers, campers, river rafters or rock
climbers, outdoor knives must be rugged, lightweight and easy to carry.
Many can be opened and closed with one hand, leaving the other hand
free to climb, balance or paddle. Many have a partially serrated blade,
which comes in handy when cutting cord or rope.
Hunting/Fishing Knives
Hunting knives need to be easy to carry, easy to use and tough enough
for any job, including field dressing game. Some hunters use fixed-blade
knives, while many others prefer the compactness of a folder or one-hand
convenience of a multi-blade knife. Fishing knives should come in different
lengths with just the right flexibility for filleting, and have handles that won’t
get slippery when wet.
Tactical Knives
They must perform when failure is not an option. They are designed
for tasks performed under the most demanding conditions, when it’s
imperative that you have equipment you can depend on. They are
manufactured with the best materials available. These knives are ideal for
military, law enforcement, search and rescue and other professionals as
well as serious adventurers.
PAGE # 05
1
4 STEPS TO BUYING
THE RIGHT KNIFE
HOW WILL YOU USE IT?
• Everyday - Are you opening boxes or cutting twine?
• Outdoor - (backpacking /climbing /hiking /camping). Do your
activities involve using rope?
• Hunting /Fishing - Are you field dressing game or
cleaning /filleting fish?
• Tactical - Do you need a heavy duty knife that won’t fail?
2
WHAT FEATURES ARE IMPORTANT TO YOUR ACTIVITIES?
• Fixed-blade - sturdy, dependable, always ready for use.
• Folding knife - compact, safe to carry.
• One-hand open/close - essential when one
hand is occupied.
• Thick blade - heavy duty tasks.
• Lightweight - feel unencumbered, easier in your pocket.
• Gut hook - field dressing /skinning game.
• Saw teeth - cutting wood or bone.
• Ergonomic design - fits your hand comfortably.
3
WHAT IS IT MADE OF?
Blade Steel
A good blade combines good edge retention, rust resistance
and ease of re-sharpening.
• 420HC is a stainless steel that provides excellent rust
resistance, ease of re-sharpening and medium edge retention.
• ATS-34 and BG-42 are two custom steels with much
higher carbon content, giving them higher hardness ratings
and dramatically higher edge retention.
• S30V is a high vanadium stainless steel with even higher
edge retention.
Handle Materials
• A rubber or textured handle provides a sure grip in
wet conditions.
• An ergonomic design provides comfort.
• Any handle should feel solid and well constructed
when you hold it.
4
DOES IT OFFER AN UNCONDITIONAL LIFETIME WARRANTY?
You want a knife that is crafted from high quality materials and
will deliver reliable performance. If it should ever fail you, be
sure the maker stands behind it. Buck Knives has been making
knives for over 100 years and still backs all of its products with
an unconditional lifetime warranty that is rock solid.
PAGE #
06
PROPERTIES
& TERMS
So that we’re all talking the same language, let’s start with a glossary
of blade terminology that will be used throughout this manual. You
probably know most of the terms already, but we’ll bet that you
discover some useful new ones!
A knife blade may look simple, but there’s a lot that goes into the
making of a quality blade that will have the strength and edgeretention that ensures consistent, reliable performance for years.
Here’s a useful compilation of the terminology used to describe the
properties that must be considered.
TERMS
Alloy Steel
Steel that has been enhanced with additional elements (chromium,
molybdenum, vanadium, nickel) are called alloy steels.
Carbon
An element present in all steels. Increasing the carbon content
increases hardness.
Chromium
A major element in martensitic stainless steel that improves
hardenability, wear resistance and corrosion resistance.
Coils
Long steel strips that come in large rolls, which are fed into Buck’s
fine blanking press as the first step toward making a blade.
Corrosion Resistance
A blade’s ability to resist rusting which is the result of exposure to
the environment.
Ductility
The blade’s ability to flex, bend or take an impact without fracturing.
If the amount of flex or bend is small before cracking or breaking,
the blade is considered brittle.
TERMS CONTINUED
Edge Retention
A measure of the blade’s ability to hold an edge by resisting abrasion and wear.
The most objective test is the computer-controlled testing machine from CATRA,
which gives accurate and repeatable data for an objective evaluation.
Fine Blanking
Fine blanking is a process whereby a roll of raw steel is fed into a machine
that presses out “shaped” steel blades. Buck’s fine blanking process produces
consistenly accurate parts that require little additional machining.
Hardenability
The steel’s ability to be hardened.
Hardness
A good indicator of steel’s ability to hold an edge. A blade’s hardness is measured
on the Rockwell “C” scale, a testing process described on the following page.
Heat-Treat
An important series of steps in developing blade properties. This process is
explained in detail on Page 14.
Laser Cutting
Large blades are cut from sheets of steel on a state-of-the-art, computercontrolled laser machine that has the capacity to “laser out” blades with precision.
Machinability
The ease in which steel can be shaped - blanked, ground, edged, sharpened.
Handle
Guard or Quillon
False Edge/Chamfer
Butt or Pommel
Edge
Choil
Hilt
Blade
PAGE #
08
PROPERTIES &
TERMS CONT’D
TERMS CONTINUED
Martensitic
Steels capable of being brought to a very hard
condition are called martensitic steels. This type is best
suited for knife blades.
Molybdenum
An element added to steel to improve hardenability,
tensile strength and resistance to corrosion and pitting.
Nickel
An alloy addition that improves steel’s toughness,
hardenability and corrosion resistance. Nickel is a
major element in steel used for kitchen cutlery and
dive knives.
Plate
Flat sheets of steel that are turned into knife blades
by laser cutting.
Properties
Refers to such things as hardenability, ductility and
toughness, which are established by the particular
chemistry of the steel and the proper heat-treat
process. Properties most important to knife blades are
covered in this glossary.
Rockwell
A hardness testing machine that forces a small
penetrator into the surface. The depth of penetration
correlates to a scale reading. The scale normally used
for knife blades is the “C” scale written as “Rc”. The
higher the number, the harder the steel. Blade steels
are in the range of Rc 52 to 62. A diamond will range
in the 80s on the C scale (Rc). Buck maintains an
Rc 58 on our standard steel. Our higher end steels
range from 59-62 depending on use.
TERMS CONTINUED
Initial Sharpness
The sharpness of the blade “out of the box,” and the sharpness
that is the goal when re-sharpening.
Stainless Steel
The common term “stainless” is misleading. More accurately, it
should be called “stain less” because it’s not “stain free.” In
certain environments, any steel with carbon will rust.
Strength
Steel’s ability to resist applied forces.
Tempering
The final step in the heat-treat process to improve toughness.
Tensile Strength
Ability to resist breaking. Ultimate Tensile Strength is the
maximum load per square inch a blade can sustain before
breaking.
Toughness
A blade’s ability to absorb energy by impact prior to fracturing.
Vanadium
Added to steel to improve hardenability and promote fine grain, an
important factor in wear resistance.
Lockback Knife
Rocker
Rocker Rivet
End Rivet
Rocker Spring
Insert
End Rivets
Bushing
Blade
Bolster
Inlay
Inlay Rivets
PAGE #
10
BLADE & HANDLE
MATERIALS
A good knife begins with the finest quality materials – for the
blade, for the handle, for the other components that are essential
to producing a dependable knife. Buck is always seeking ways
to improve the quality, durability, look and performance of their
knives. The information below reflects Buck’s commitment to using
the most appropriate combination of time-tested and innovative
materials to make the highest quality knives.
BLADE MATERIAL - STEEL
Since the blade is the heart of the knife, let’s look at steel as our
starting point. Steel is essentially a combination of iron and carbon.
Steel is used in many different ways, from skyscrapers to food and
beverage cans – it’s hard to imagine life without steel.
Steels used for knife blades are called alloy steels, which means
they are enhanced by the addition of key elements, such as
chromium, molybdenum, vanadium, manganese, zirconium,
tungsten and more. The choice of steel is determined by the
performance expectations of the blade. Different types of steel are
produced by adjusting the chemical composition and the different
finishing processes used, such as rolling, finishing and heat-treating.
Stainless steels, the steels most commonly used for knife blades,
are alloy steels with chemical additions that make them
corrosion-resistant.
HOW IS STEEL MADE?
The steel making process begins by melting scrap steel (such
as old cars) in a furnace. An important quality of steel is that it
is 100% recyclable – it can be used over and over again without
downgrading to a lower quality. Alloy elements are added to the
melt, and the molten steel is poured into molds called ingots. Once
the ingots have solidified, they are processed in a mill to make the
usable shapes and sizes. The shapes that Buck Knives uses most
frequently are plate and coil. Knife components are cut out of plate
stock through the use of the laser and cut out of coil stock through
the fine blanking process.
TYPES OF BLADE STEELS
No matter how good the steel, you are always faced with the
reality that you are trading corrosion-resistance for edge-retention
or edge-retention for sharpenability. Different elements contribute
different performance characteristics to the overall mix. Buck has
chosen the following steels…
420HC Steel
This is a high carbon (HC) version of standard 420 martensitic
stainless steels. These steels are hardenable, straight-chromium
steels. They combine the excellent wear resistance of high carbon
alloys with the corrosion resistance of chromium stainless steels.
That means 420HC – Buck’s standard knife material, along
with our exclusive heat-treat process – offers superior corrosion
resistance and excellent tensile strength, hardness and wear
resistance. Standard Rockwell hardness of Rc 58.
ATS-34
A
TS-34
ATS-34
BOS
BOS
BG-42
BOS
BG-42
BOS
ATS-34
A
TS-34
ATS-34
BOS
BOS
S30V
BOS
S30V
BOS
BG-42
BOS
ATS-34
BOS
S30V
BOS
BG-42
BOS
S30V
BOS
ATS-34 Steel
A very high carbon, chromium martensitic stainless steel, with
additional amounts of carbon and molybdenum that add significant
edge-holding properties and corrosion resistance. We attain
Rockwell hardnesses of Rc 60–61.
BOS
BG-42
BOS
A
TS-34
ATS-34
BOS
S30V
BOS
BG-42
BOS
S30V
BOS
BG-42 Steel
A extremely high-performance, bearing grade martensitic
stainless steel with significantly increased amounts of carbon and
molybdenum content plus vanadium for improved edge retention
and strength. This steel is being heat-treated to Rc 61-62.
S30V Steel
The absolute best blade steel available, and made in America.
Contains carbon as well as high amounts of chromium,
molybdenum and vanadium. Double-tempered, it can be hardened
to a Rockwell hardness of Rc 59.5-61.
PAGE #
12
BLADE & HANDLE
MATERIALS CONT’D
HANDLE MATERIALS
Buck Knives selects from a wide variety of natural and
man-made materials to provide the right handle for
appearance and performance.
Wood
Beautifully grained natural woods and laminated dyed
birchwood are chosen for more traditional knives (such as
the 110 Folding Hunter). Some distinctive woods that Buck
chooses are Cocobola, distinguished by its rich coloring, and
Obechee with its unusually dark grained look. These woods
are treated with an environmentally sound resin to protect
their natural beauty. The resin-impregnated birchwoods
retain much of their natural woodgrain while getting waterresistant and heat-resistant attributes from the resin.
Phenolic
This hard, ebony-colored compound is almost impervious
to heat, cold and shock, making it practically indestructible.
This type of handle is best suited to a fixed blade knife that
needs to withstand some vigorous use.
Aluminum
High-tech, aircraft-grade, 6061 T-6 aluminum, machined
from solid sheet stock, can be used to create a lightweight
and durable handle. The aluminum can be anodized in
a solid color or with patterns and pictures. Buck Knives
discovered a process that allows original artwork to be
anodized on the handles.
Titanium
An amazingly strong but surprisingly lightweight material - as
close to corrosion free as you can get.
BLADE & HANDLE MATERIALS CONTINUED
Kraton®
Ideal for fish fillet knives, Kraton is slightly pliant plastic, fully resilient
when dry, for maximum comfort. Kraton becomes tacky when wet so
you have a sure grip even when hands get slippery.
Horn/Bone
Chosen for a distinctive, natural look, authentic horn and bone adds
extra distinction to any handle. Horn can be inlayed or hand-carved
(Buck’s Black Buffalo Horn has been carved to replicate the natural
grooves of Impala Horn).
Plastics
Buck uses various engineering-quality thermoplastics, including
a molded plastic with a hard, textured surface and a rubber-like
plastic with a textured finish. On Buck’s 281 NXT liner-locks, we
use a two-shot molding method, combining a hard, glass-reinforced
thermoplastic base with soft Dynaflex® to create a two-tone, sure-grip
comfortable handle.
G-10
An almost indestructible resin laminate that is resistant to heat, cold,
chemicals, impact and other abuse. That’s why Buck uses G-10 for
the handles on the super-tough Buck/Strider™ tactical knives.
Aluminum
Phenolic
Wood with Inlay
PAGE #
THE MAKING
OF A BLADE
14
Superior materials are essential to the function of a knife,
but they are just the start. The steels we’ve described are
excellent, but it’s what you do with these steels that makes the
difference. It begins with Buck’s exclusive heat-treat process.
STEEL
HEAT-TREAT
EDGING
HEAT-TREATMENT - The Paul Bos Way
Heat-treat is the process by which steel is
prepared to make it suitable for knife blades.
Buck works with state-of-the-art metallurgists
who determine what heat and freezing processes
are necessary to get the maximum performance
from the different steels.
BOS
BOS
One of Buck’s great resources is Paul Bos,
nationally known heat-treat authority, who has
been heat-treating since 1956. He serves 70%
of America’s custom knifemakers, as well as
overseeing all of Buck Knives’ heat-treating. His
shop is located in the Buck plant, where he is
readily available to consult with Buck’s engineers.
Paul’s link to Buck Knives goes back to his early
years when he worked on custom knives for Al
Buck in the late ‘50s. Clearly, the Paul Bos touch
is an integral part of Buck’s great blades.
Buck Knives takes each blade through a carefully
controlled three-step heat-treating process that
brings the blades to an ideal blend of hardness and
toughness for edge retention.
1950º F
High-Heat
1
1950º F
0º
High-Heat
0º
1950º F
High-Heat
0º
To ensure uniform heating, the blades
are separately laid out on a continuous,
slow moving conveyor belt. After reaching
a maximum temperature of 1950°F,
they are then cooled quickly to room
temperature.
Cryogenic
2
0º
-120º F
0º
-120º F
0º
-120º F
950º F
Cryogenic
Cryogenic
Tempering
to
0º
350º F
950º F
Tempering
to
0º
3
350º F
950º F
Tempering
to
0º
350º F
.03
.03
35º to 50º
35º to 50º
Blades are lowered into a cryogenic
freezer where they are subjected to
-120°F below zero temperatures, then
brought back to room temperature.
Old Edge Shape
.03
Old Edge Shape
.04
35º to 50º .04 Old Edge Shape
™
26º to 32º New Edge2x Shape
.04
™
26º to 32º New Edge2x Shape
™
26º to 32º New Edge2x Shape
They are placed in an oven where the
temperature is slowly raised to between
350°F to 950°F, depending on the
end use and steel type. This tempering
process toughens the steel and brings
420HC blades to 58 on the Rockwell C
scale, the preferred hardness for edgeholding. ATS-34, BG-42 and S30V blades
can be hardened to an exceptional Rc
59-62, again, depending on end use.
Only after this rigorous heat-treat process
is a Buck blade ready to be edged -- the
other vitally important process in creating
a great blade.
PAGE # 16
THE MAKING OF
A BLADE CONT’D
GRINDING
Another important step in blade making is the
grinding process. The grind is the gradual slope
from the top of the blade to the cutting edge.
After the blade blank has been cut out - either by
fine blanking or laser cutting - abrasive materials
are used to cut into the blade in various ways
to create the cutting edge. Robotics are used
for the basic grinding at Buck Knives to achieve
a consistency not possible with hand grinding.
These cross-section diagrams show the four
most common grinds used for knife blades.
SEMI-HOLLOW vs. FULL HOLLOW
vs. FLAT GROUND BLADES
Semi-Hollow
Semi-Hollow
Creates a nice balance between a sharp
edge and overall blade strength. It’s the
most common of grinds used today.
Full Hollow
Full Hollow
Produces the thinnest and sharpest edge
but is the most vulnerable to abuse.
Flat Grind
(V-Grind)
Flat Grind
(Rolled Edge)
Flat Grind (V-Grind)
Produces a very sharp cutting edge
with reasonable blade strength. Easy to
re-sharpen.
Flat Grind (Rolled Edge)
Produces the strongest blade - the cutting
edge becomes thicker after repeated use
and re-sharpening. It’s a little harder to
re-sharpen.
EDGING THE BLADE WITH
BUCK’S EDGE2x™ TECHNOLOGY
For 35 years, Buck Knives followed a blade-edging
protocol that produced blades with excellent edgeholding qualities. In 1999, Buck decided to edge out
the competition with the most exciting innovation in edge
technology: Edge2x.
Chuck Buck, along with Buck engineers, quality and
production supervisors, and experienced blade edgers,
experimented with angles and materials before coming
up with the exact edge geometry specification to create
this new, sharper edge.
.03
35º to 50º
OLD EDGE SHAPE
This new edge was achieved by changing the included
angle (the total of the angles on both sides of the blade)
from a range of 35° to 50° to a new range of 26° to
32°. This range allows Buck greater flexibility to match
13º to 16º
.04
the angle of the
blade to the
function of the knife. A
SHARPENING
STONE
device, called a goniometer, provides
26º laser-measuring
to 32º
CORRECT
BLADE ANGLE to verify that the edge
precise angle
measurements
NEW Edgethe
2x SHAPE
FOR SHARPENING
matches specifications.
Buck Knives decided to stay with hand edging, as the
human touch lessens the risk of burning, which can lower
the hardness of the steel. Experienced edgers, who have
been with Buck for many years, went through extensive
training to learn the new system. It took many months
for them to perfect the process, but has been well worth
the effort.
.03
.04
35º to 50º
26º to 32º
OLD EDGE SHAPE
to 32º
e 2x SHAPE
NEW Edge 2x SHAPE
13º to 16º
SHARPENING
STONE
CORRECT BLADE ANGLE
FOR SHARPENING
13º to with
16º
Now,
Edge2x, every knife made by Buck is sharper
out of the box, holds an edge much longer and is easier
CORRECT BLADE
ANGLE
to re-sharpen
when needed.
FOR SHARPENING
SHARPENING
STONE
Another key to the success of this new edging process:
Edge2x™ Technology uses laminated leather stropping
wheels, eliminating “rollover” (where the edge can lose
its ideal keenness), and resulting in razor-sharp blades.
C.A.T.R.A. (an acronym for the internationally respected
British cutlery association) testing is a computerized
international standard test for edge retention. Edge2x
blades have been compared against our older Buck
blades and evaluated using the CATRA tests, which
proved the superiority of our new edging process. Edge2x
is now applied to all Buck blades.
PAGE # 18
TYPES OF
KNIVES
FIXED-BLADE
A fixed-blade knife will never surprise you in use because it is
a solid piece of steel with a handle anchored to it. For those
who want a blade they really trust for tough jobs, such as field
dressing and tough camping tasks, guide them to a fixed-blade.
Fixed-blade knives can have tang or slab construction. A tang
runs the length of the handle but tapers and disappears within.
With slab, two handle slabs are attached to either side of the
handle steel. The steel part of the handle is larger and visible the
length of the handle. Slab handles are heavier but stronger.
FOLDING KNIVES
Pocket Knives
Pocket knives are still high on the list of favorites - great
to carry in your pocket for all the times you might need a
blade. The blades don’t lock open, but that’s not critical
for their utilitarian use. Many pocket knives have more
than one blade for multiple uses.
Lockback
A “lockback” is a type of folding knife that locks open.
Locking folders provide much of the confidence of a fixedblade while open, yet enable you to fold the blade for
safety and carrying convenience.
A lockback gets its name from a rocking lock plate visible
on the back of the handle. Opening the blade causes
the “rocker” to lock against the blade so it locks open.
Pushing down on the rocker at the back of the handle
releases it and enables you to close the blade. Lockbacks
require 2-hand closing, though some are 1-hand openers.
FOLDING KNIVES CONT’D
One-Hand Open/Close
Many knife users are looking for the
convenience of a knife that opens
and closes with one hand, and
also provides lock-open safety. For
climbing and activities where one
hand is occupied, a one-hander
is essential. For other activities,
a one-hander may be personal
preference. There are many types
of one-handers, so choose one
that fits your activites.
OPENING
CLOSING
Liner Lock
A “Liner Lock” is a folding knife that locks open via a tensioned
metal liner inside the handle. Similar to a “Lockback,” opening
the blade activates the lock. Unlocking is achieved by placing
your thumb on the front part of the liner and pushing to the left,
which releases the blade. A liner lock enables you to close the
blade with one hand. A thumb hole or thumb stud in the blade
is typically used for one-hand opening.
Frame Lock
A “Frame Lock” operates like a liner lock, only the lock is a
tensioned part of the handle frame with an open channel. When
the blade opens, the frame lock moves into the handle opening
and locks against the blade. Pushing to the left releases it from
its “locked position” so you can close the blade.
Assisted Opening
To Open: Hold in one hand.
Pull Safety back.
Push down on
Blade Release Ridge.
(blade opens quickly)
Liner Lock
To Close: Push Liner Lock left,
close blade using two hands,
push Safety forward (closed).
Assisted-opening
(patent pending)
Buck’s “Assisted Opening” knives are the
ultimate in one-hand convenience. They also
use a liner lock for locking the blade open. To
open, release the safety, then push the blade
release ridge. After the blade starts opening, the
assisted opening mechanism (ASAP) completes
the blade opening, which releases the liner to
lock the blade open. To close, push left on the
front of the liner to unlock it, close the blade
and engage the safety on top of the handle.
PAGE #
20
BASIC BLADE
SHAPES
There are many shapes of knife blades available. This guide is
intended to show the most common and give an explanation
of the intended purpose.
THE THREE MOST WIDELY
USED BLADE SHAPES
Clip
The length and angle of the concave curve on
the non-cutting portion of the point determines
whether a clip blade is just a “clip” (short,
pronounced curve), a “California” clip (longer,
gentler curve) or a so-called “Turkish” clip (very
elongated). The sharp point is effective for detail
work, but not as strong as a thicker blade.
Modified Clip
A recent design development that has proved
popular on high-tech, one-hand knives. Exact
shapes vary.
Drop-Point and Modified Drop-Point
This blade has a gentle, sloping convex curve
to the point without the concave curve of the
clip blade. Its thicker point is stronger for heavier
tasks. The thicker tip is a positive for abuse but a
negative on easy penetration.
OTHER BLADE SHAPES
Sheepsfoot
Got its name from the shape of the point
resembling the hoof of a sheep. With its distinctive
flat, straight-line cutting edge and rounded point,
it’s well suited to giving you a clean cut, especially
on a flat cutting surface.
Spey
As the name indicates, this blade was originally
developed to neuter farm animals. A rather blunt
point avoids poking through a surface by accident,
and the overall blade configuration makes the spey
function well suited for skinning and sweeping
knife strokes.
Pen or Spear
This is a smaller version of the larger “spear point”
blade. Spear points are more popular in Europe,
while in America the clip blade is the preferred
option. Pen blades are usually on pocket knives
as a handy, all purpose blade. It was originally
developed to trim quill pens, and that name has
stuck through the years.
Coping
A narrow blade with a sharp, angular point, almost
like a miniature sheepsfoot blade. It is designed
to be used for cutting in tight spots or curved
patterns, much as you would with a coping saw
– only without the teeth.
Tanto
The tanto is a traditional Japanese design dating
back to feudal Japan. The angled grind from the
edge to the tip is much heavier and stronger than
other blade styles. It is used for piercing hard /
tough materials and for prying or scraping.
PAGE # 22
BASIC BLADE
SHAPES CONT’D
OTHER BLADE SHAPES CONTINUED
Gutting & Skinning Hook
Buck spent time finalizing the shape and angles
for great performance, which makes it a cinch to
field dress game. This patented blade feature is
available on several Buck hunting knife models.
Serrated
On many blades, serrations have been added to
give your Buck knife even greater cutting power.
SERRATED OR NON-SERRATED?
This is a decision that must be made more
now than in the past, as more and more knives
have serrated blades. Serrations, which might
be considered a “semi-saw,” provide a more
aggressive cutting action, especially useful when
cutting wet line, cord or cable. These blades have
gained popularity, with the choice largely based
on use of the knife. The serrations also retain
their ability to cut longer than a standard edge.
Non-serrated blades will have a greater initial
sharpness. For a clean, precision cut, a nonserrated blade is usually the first choice.
Many blades are now offered partially serrated,
providing the benefits of both cutting actions.
PAGE #
23
SHEATHS
FIXED-BLADE
A GOOD SHEATH IS IMPORTANT
A good knife deserves a good sheath.
We provide sheaths of high quality
leather or rugged nylon, all with easy
deployment. In many cases, they can
have either a vertical or horizontal
configuration for convenient carrying
options. In general, sheaths are not
usually offered on smaller knives that
easily fit in your pocket or feature
an alternative carrying option, like a
pocket clip or built-in carry clip.
The sheath will usually wear out before
the knife does and it’s important to
protect the knife. Buck offers a full
range of replacement sheaths.
FOLDING KNIFE
KNIFE CARE
PAGE # 24
SHARPENING TIPS
Every knife needs sharpening from time to time. Follow
these steps to maintain a sharp, even edge. Of course we
recommend you use Buck’s Diamond Sharpening Stones.
1
Establish the proper angle of 10 to 20 degrees
(about the thickness of the top of your blade).
2
3
Keep the blade on the surface and use an easy,
clockwise motion with the edge facing right, until
desired sharpness is achieved. It is ideal to achieve
the original factory edge.
Turn the blade over. Use an easy, counter-clockwise
motion with the edge facing the left. Try to spend the
same amount of time on each side.
Remember: a sharp knife not only performs better, it’s actually
safer because it cuts easily without forced or awkward motions.
If you would rather not do your own sharpening, Buck
Customer Service will clean and sharpen your knife for a small
fee. Call 1-800-326-2825 to inquire.
SHARPENING SERRATIONS
The Diamond Taper Sharpener easily sharpens all
serrated patterns.
1
2
Find the correct spot on the taper that matches the
size of the serration.
Keeping the same angle as the factory edge, push the
sharpener up against the steel, rotating as you go.
Sharpen only the “grind” side of the serration. Repeat
this for all serrations.
Sharpening Gut Hooks
Our patented gutting/skinning hook can be sharpened
in the same way as sharpening serrations. Put the
smallest point on the sharpener in the top corner of
the gut hook. Slide the sharpener down against the
edge while moving toward the bottom corner in the
gut hook. Hold the sharpener at the constant angle.
KEEP IT CLEAN!
For a knife or tool to perform well, look better and last longer, some cleaning
and maintenance is required. A self-cleaning lubricant will penetrate the tight
tolerances and pivot points of a folding knife, making the folding action smoother
and protecting the moving parts. Surface oxidation, rust formation and sticky
residue are commonly found on hardworking blades. Use a polish to restore the
luster and protect the steel. Buck offers a wide assortment of knife care products.
WARRANTY
4-EVER
WARRANTY
NEW
All Buck products are backed by the best warranty
in the business. Buck Knives warrants that it will
unconditionally repair or replace our products if
4-EVER
they are found to contain any defects in material
WARRANTY
or workmanship. The warranty covers replacement
parts and labor.
NEW
For more information, including knife care and knifecare products, please go to: www.buckknives.com
PAGE #
26
QUALITY &
CRAFTSMANSHIP
It’s The Little Things
That Make The Difference
OPEN/CLOSE
SMOOTHLY
Be sure to experience the opening
and closing – it should be easy and
smooth. Do all of the parts fit smoothly,
solidly, seamlessly? When a folding
knife is open, the blade should not
have a loose, wobbly feel. And you
should find out if the knife is backed
by a guarantee, such as Buck’s 4-Ever
Warranty, an unconditional guarantee.
ALL PARTS FIT
SEAMLESSLY
How do you intend to use the knife?
Most knife decisions are based on the
ability of the knife to meet the need.
Different steels have different properties
that affect performance. The goal is to
match the steel to the task. To compare
extremes, S30V steel provides the
very best in edge retention and tensile
strength, but is more susceptible to rust
and is more difficult to re-sharpen than
standard knife steels.
NO WOBBLE
LIFETIME
WARRANTY
4-EVER
WARRANTY
NEW
Blade styles and shapes, blade
material, handle shape and material will
all contribute different attributes that
may make a difference to you.
4-EVER
Use “Buck’s 4 Steps to Buying the
WARRANTY
Right
Knife” to help you through
the buying process.
NEW
800-735-2825
www.buckknives.com
© 2004 Buck Knives Inc.
All Rights Reserved