eGroomer Journal for Professional Pet Groomers July/September

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eGroomer Journal for Professional Pet Groomers July/September
P E T G R O O M E R .C O M
eGroomer Journal July / September 2014
1
P U B L I C A PetGroomer.com
T I O NPublications
S
Double
Double--Coated Breeds
Excerpt from Jodi Murphy’s New Book
Dog Grooming Simplified—Straight to the Point
Story Begins on Page 15
25 Cat = Dog Grooming?
32 Quick Guide to Shear Care
36 Heated Cage Dryer Awareness Day
Anthology of Blog Posts by Barbara Bird, Daryl Conner,
Melissa Francisco, Debi Hilley and Mary Oquendo
July / September 2014 Vol. 4 Ed 3
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EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Stephen Mart
ADMINISTRATOR Madeline B. Ogle
PUBLISHER Find A Groomer Inc.
EDITORIAL OFFICE
PO Box 2489
Yelm, WA 98597
[email protected]
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CALENDAR OF EVENTS 2014
eGroomer Journal July / September 2014
JULY 2014
July 22 to 24
Groomer SuperShow & SuperZoo
Las Vegas, NV
www.superzoo.org
AUGUST 2014
August 14 to 17
All American Grooming Show
Wheeling, IL
www.aagrmgshow.com
SEPTEMBER 2014
September 18 to 21
Groom Expo 2014
Hershey, PA
www.groomexpo.com
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OCTOBER 2014
October 24 to 26
NDGAA Fun in the Sun 2014
Orlando, FL
wsw.ndgaa.com
October 30 to November 2
Pet Pro Classic 2014
Dallas, TX
www.petstylist.com
October 31—November 2
New England Pet Grooming
Professionals Fallfest
Warwick, RI
www.nepgp.com
September 19 to 21
Pet Industry Christmas Trade Show
Chicago, IL
www.hhbacker.com
Clip Shoppe School of Dog Grooming
New Jersey - www.clipshoppeschoolofdoggrooming.com
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DOUBLE
DOUBLE--COATED BREEDS
eGroomer Journal July / September 2014
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by
Jodi Murphy
MASTER PET STYLIST
Article excerpted from Dog Grooming Simplified—Straight to the Point, a
new grooming instruction book by Jodi Murphy with over 400 beautiful
color photos including those presented here.
Article begins on next page.
Jodi Murphy has been well respected as an educator in the grooming industry for
many years. She was ranked one of the top pet stylists in the world, winning
countless titles including World Grand Champion and Best American Groomer. Jodi
is here to share with you her knowledge in this extraordinary grooming book. With
over 190 breeds recognized by the American Kennel Club along with individual
breed-specific grooming instructions, it can become very overwhelming for
groomers to retain the information. "Straight to the Point” is the solution to
understanding pattern lines, which simplifies the learning process. Whether the
patterns are set tight, left more natural or scissored...they are set in the same
fashion. Once a groomer understands basic patterns and canine structure, he or
she will be able to groom any breed with ease. With over
400 beautiful color images, including some of the top
winning show dogs in the country, groomers will be able to
see proper pattern placement on real dogs. These fabulous
photos can be used as a reference that will facilitate in
executing a perfect pet trim. A pet dog does not have to be
groomed using “show” techniques, i.e., hand stripping, to
present the proper breed profile. With proper pattern
placement and techniques described in this text, the
groomer will be©able
present
a well-balanced,
welleGroomer Journal www.egroomer.com Subscribe Free
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blended pet trim to the pet owner. www.jodimurphy.net
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Double-Coated Breeds
Wild animals develop a winter and
summer coat based on daylight. As the
days become shorter these animals will
develop their heavy winter coats. As the
days become longer they will start to
shed their winter coats preparing for the
warm weather. House pets, on the other
hand, are exposed to
artificial light and do not develop this
exact cycle. Pets tend to shed all year
round; however, the majority of the
shedding does occur when the days
become longer and pets are exposed to
natural sunlight for longer periods of
time.
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by Jodi Murphy
Shedding double-coated breeds, like the
Golden Retriever for example, can be
done easily and effectively during the
bathing process. A warm bath can
facilitate the release
of undercoat by
slightly dilating the
hair follicles. This
seems to be the
prime time to remove
undercoat. Brushing
the coat while it is wet
and soapy will remove
a tremendous amount
of coat. This can be
done using a slicker
brush. An undercoat
rake can also be used
if necessary. Brushing with the flow of
water during the rinse process will also
facilitate in the removal of excess
undercoat. Once the coat is brushed
thoroughly during the bath, applying a
cool rinse is beneficial, as it will
constrict the hair follicles.
Undercoat is a soft and downy type of
hair. When dogs are washed with
shampoo the undercoat becomes
saturated and will take longer to dry
(Continued on page 19)
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Double-Coated Breeds
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Jodi Murphy
(Continued from page 16)
than the guard hair.
Once the excess
undercoat is removed
during the bath, the
dog will dry very
quickly.
This shedding
procedure is not only
extremely effective in
the shedding process
but is also healthier
for the groomer. The common method
of brushing out dirty, dry undercoat or
force drying the coat with a high velocity
dryer as a means of a shedding
technique is very messy. The undercoat,
dander and allergens are blown out and
are easily inhaled. With the described
shedding method, the undercoat is left
wet in the bath tub and is easy to clean
up.
Caution should be taken when brushing
a wet coat, as the pins of a slicker brush
can reach the skin more easily than
when brushing a dry coat. Applying too
much pressure to the brush could cause
irritation to the skin.
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The lifestyle of the pet should be given
special consideration before using these
shedding techniques. Pets who are
exposed to cold temperatures for long
periods of time or actively participate in
the field work that they were bred for
may need the excess undercoat to
protect them from the elements.
Shaving Double-Coated Breeds
Most pet owners who own heavy doublecoated breeds, like the Golden
Retriever, are concerned that their dogs
are very hot during the summer months.
They do not understand the function of
the double-coat. It is our job as pet care
(Continued on page 20)
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Double-Coated Breeds
(Continued from page 19)
professionals to educate our clients
before shaving a double-coated breed.
The undercoat serves as a type of
insulation for dogs. It keeps them warm
during the winter months by holding in
body heat. They don’t shed quite as
much in the winter because they need
the coat to keep them warm. When the
warmer season approaches and the
days become longer, these breeds will
start to shed profusely. They are
shedding their winter coat preparing for
the summer heat. If they held onto their
coat, they would be extremely hot
during the summer months. Many of
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these breeds need assistance from
groomers to remove the excess
undercoat during the shedding season.
Once the undercoat is removed and is
maintained regularly,
the dog will stay cooler.
The pretty guard hair
that these breeds have
regulates their body
temperature, keeping
them cool and
protecting their skin
from the sun.
The double-coat serves
to protect the dogs
from weather
conditions, cold water
temperatures and rough terrain when
performing the various jobs that they
were bred for. Many of these coats have
an oily protective coating that acts like
the down of a duck and repels water.
The undercoat insulates and prevents
the water from reaching the skin. This is
very important for water retrieving dogs.
Of course, when these breeds are
bathed with shampoo, the detergent will
gradually break down the natural oils
and the coat will become saturated.
(Continued on page 21)
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Double-Coated Breeds
(Continued from page 20)
This is why it seems difficult to
completely saturate these breeds when
bathing them.
When these breeds are shaved, their
natural cooling
mechanism is
destroyed. They do not
have protection from
the sun’s harmful UV
rays or the guard hair
that serves to control
their body
temperature. Once
shaved, the undercoat
that was in the hair
follicle still remains
there. When the coat
is clipped very short,
the follicles can become clogged with
undercoat. The dogs may lick the
irritated skin and before long a hot spot
or skin irritation can be triggered.
Dogs have numerous strands of hair in
each follicle. It is believed that the
follicle consists of only one guard hair
and a multitude of undercoat hairs.
When clippering a dog short, many of
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the guard hairs can be damaged and
will be replaced with undercoat. In
addition, undercoat grows at a much
more rapid rate than guard hair. This is
why after clippering these breeds it
seems as though the coat grows back
thicker with more undercoat.
Canine alopecia is a hair loss disorder
that results from mange, infection,
trauma, immune disease and endocrine
system abnormalities as well as other
underlying health conditions. Once
double-coated breeds are shaved, “postclippering alopecia” can be triggered.
This disorder is most prevalent in the
Pomeranian, Chow Chow, German
(Continued on page 22)
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Double-Coated Breeds
(Continued from page 21)
Shepherd, Samoyed, Sheltie, Collie and
Keeshond although it can happen in any
heavy double-coated breed. This is often
seen several weeks after the pet has
been shaved as new growth is starting
to appear. The coat will grow in leaving
patchy areas of baldness. Canine
alopecia has been linked to certain
health issues including trauma to the
skin, yet it is uncertain why some
breeds that are shaved develop postclippering alopecia and others do not.
The dogs that do develop this disorder
after being shaved may never grow their
full coat back again.
These are the concerns and should be
relayed to the pet owner. It is ultimately
the pet owners’ decision as to whether
or not they want to have their pet
shaved. However, it is the groomers’
decision whether they want to perform
the groom and be held responsible in
the event that a skin and/or coat issue
does arise after the groom. To alleviate
any concern, a release form may be
presented to the pet owner prior to the
groom.
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When shaving body patterns or
performing complete shavedowns on
any breed it is recommended to use
blade lengths ranging from 7F, 5F, 4F or
longer. Using blade lengths shorter than
a 7F on body patterns can be
detrimental to the skin. All dogs are
different. Some may grow coat back
perfectly fine with no irritation from
clipping, while others may develop skin
or coat issues.
In the event of a medical issue and/or
old age, the pet’s veterinarian may
recommend to have the dog shaved. In
this event, the health and comfort of the
pet should be the deciding factor. If
clipping is preferred, it is recommended
to completely shed the coat using a
slicker brush and/or shedding rake
before shaving. Carding the coat after
the shavedown will help to remove the
remainder of the undercoat.
Snap-on combs of various lengths can
also be used for a shorter trim as an
alternative to blades.
Available on DVD: “Deshedding: Theory
& Techniques” at www.jodimurphy.net ♦
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Golden Paws Owner Licensed Schools
O.C. Academy of Pet Styling
Fullerton, CA
Golden Paws Pet Styling Academy
Chicago, IL
Golden Paws Pet Styling Academy
Miami, FL
Dapper Dawg School of Prof. Dog Grooming
Stoneham, MA
Golden Paws Pet Styling Academy
Clifton Park, NY
Just Four Paws Academy of Pet Styling
Girard, PA
Golden Paws Pet Styling Academy
Pittsburgh, PA
Golden Paws School of Dog Styling
Houston, TX
Golden Paws Pet Styling Academy
Marinette, WI
See www.goldenpaws.com for more.
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Cat = Dog?
Things I Learned from a Pomeranian
by Danelle German, CFMG, CFCG
I’ve been working on several new lectures this year in preparation for upcoming
shows both in the US and abroad. As I ponder on the topics I want to cover I think
of Puff Puff. Who is Puff Puff, you ask? Well, he was a toy Pomeranian that I had
the misfortune of grooming once upon a time ago. I’m pretty sure Puff got the
short end of the stick, though, as my dog grooming knowledge and skills could
about fill up an entire thimble. Needless to say, my adventure with Puff Puff was
(Continued on page 26)
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(Continued from page 25)
my first and last foray into the world of
regular dog grooming, and it taught me
something that I think every
groomer should know.
I borrowed Puff Puff for a
particular purpose. We were
doing a photo and video shoot
of the Catty Shack Vac ™ in
use and wanted to show that
a dog, as well as a cat, could
be dried in it.
So I asked my sister-in-law if I
could borrow her beloved Puff
Puff for the event. She was
happy to get a free groom out
of the deal because Puff was badly
matted. He was in full coat at the time
and in dire need of a groom.
I think Puff weighed all of 4 lbs with his
collar on and soaking wet. Keep in
mind that many of the cats I groom
tend to be four, five, and even ten times
that weight. I had no idea what to do
with this tiny ball of matted fur that
danced around on my grooming table
as if his feet were on fire. He wouldn’t
hold still! As I checked out Puff’s coat
and realized the state it is was in, I
began to panic. Can I bathe a Pom in
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full coat with mats and get them out in
the CS Vac like I do with every cat that is
matted?
Seems like I’d heard along the way from
my dog groomer friends that this is not
the way to go.
What if I have to shave Puff? What
blade do I use and how the heck am I
going to shave that itty bitty little belly
while the dog is doing the Electric Slide
all over the table?
Before I could ask myself more
questions that I had no answers for, I
picked up little Puff Puff and plopped
him into my Forever Stainless Mini Tub.
Good thing I had a toy Pom to work
with, I told myself, considering all of my
(Continued on page 27)
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(Continued from page 26)
equipment is cat-sized.
The bath went well. I degreased the
heck out of Puff, just as I do with every
cat. I didn’t know if Poms got greasy,
but I figured it couldn’t hurt. After the
bath, Puff got wrapped
in a towel. I tried the
“kitty burrito” but that
didn’t work out too well,
mainly because Puff
Puff wasn’t into lying
down and folding his
legs up under him like a
cat does.
I tried to smoosh him
down a few times, but to
no avail. I proceeded to
clean Puff’s ears and
eyes, following the same
process I use for cats. Puff was more
interested in jumping up and hugging
me it seemed. Not what I was used to
from my feline clients, to be sure.
Off to the CS Vac we went. “Here goes
nothing,” I told myself. If I couldn’t demat Puff Puff a la cat style, well, then it
might be we head on down the road and
beg Phyllis the dog groomer to PLEASE
SHAVE THIS MATTED DOG FOR ME! And
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don’t tell anyone that I brought him in.
Please!
As luck would have it, Puff’s mats came
out without too much trouble. He
almost reminded me of a Himalayan.
Except for the constant prancing about
and spastic behavior. And the fact that I
couldn’t scruff him and flip
him upside down to dry
and de-mat his
underneath. That was a
challenge, I can tell you!
Rest assured that portion
of the videotaping got
edited right out! The last
thing I need is for that
scene to end up on
YouTube.
At last Puff Puff was clean,
dry, fluffy, free of mats and
looking an awful lot like a
long hair cat of some sort. I was so
pleased with my work. Maybe I could
be a dog groomer, I thought. Naw….too
much work!
Some time later the photos were used
in some advertising. Mission
accomplished, and I was feeling so
proud of myself. At least until some of
my dog grooming friends snorted and
(Continued on page 30)
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chuckled when they saw the pictures.
“What was so funny,” I asked. “You left
toe tufts on Puff Puff,” they teased.
Didn’t I know that his little feet were to
be all trimmed up,
according to breed
standard? Well what did I
know of Pomeranian breed
standards? I just figured
that what I knew about cat
grooming could apply just
as easily to this little ball of
canine fur. I was wrong.
Puff Puff (may he rest in
peace) taught me a
valuable lesson that day. I
shouldn’t be grooming
dogs (not that I want to)
because I am not an expert in the art of
dog grooming.
Even though I thought that little
Pomeranian looked so great when I was
done with him, to the trained eyes of my
colleagues, he looked simply awful. I
know nothing of breed standards and
coat types not to mention how to
properly handle each one. Should I ever
decide to add dog grooming to my list of
skills, I have a LOT to learn before I am
properly prepared to do the job
correctly. Hmm. I wonder how often dog
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groomers are applying what they know
about dogs to all of the cats they groom
because they have no knowledge about
standards for cat breeds? ♦
Danelle German, CFMG, CFCG
Danelle German owned and operated CFA’s Bara
Cattery from 1999-2005. During that time she
produced and showed many National and Regional
Award Winning Persians including CFA’s 3rd Best
Cat in Premiership in 2005. She retired from
showing to focus solely on her feline-exclusive spa
and resort, The Catty Shack, Ltd. Although the
salon has only been open since mid-December
2003, it boasts an ever- growing clientele of over
2000. Danelle is a member of Foothills Felines Cat
Club, serving as President and Show Manager for a
number of years. She has authored several articles
for publications such as “Groomer to Groomer” and
“Pet Spa and Boutique” as well as the world’s
largest cat grooming book, The Ultimate Cat
Groomer Encyclopedia. Recognized internationally
as an expert on all aspects related to feline
grooming, she has been interviewed for various
publications and programs such as Kittens USA
and Discovery Channel and has appeared on
Animal Planet’s “Cats 101.” See
www.nationalcatgroomers.com.
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A Quick Guide to Shear Care
Jeff Andrews
Northern Tails Sharpening
www.northerntails.com
When you acquire new shears or they
back from the sharpener they are
adjusted to cut. Because we are also
groomers at Northern Tails we adjust
shears focused on the tips and front end
of shears suitable for pet grooming.
The adjustment for tension (or balance
as some call it), is a screw or thumb
wheel on the pivot of the shears. Beveled
edge shears are adjusted to where the
blades grab about three-fourths of an
inch from the tip. This enables the
blades to slice from the pivot all the way
to the tips. If tension isn’t set like this on
beveled 10” shears, the blades may push
apart from one another in thicker coat
and fold at the tips.
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There is a space between the blades of
beveled shears that has to be there. It
gives these shears the “slicing” action
necessary to cut through tough coats
with ease. This type of edge is the
workhorse of the grooming industry and
can be used on any type of coat. This
edge lasts for months unless you drop
the shears or hit something in the coat
creating a nick.
Convex shears have a different edge
altogether. Their edge is a razor. For this
reason they are sharpened differently.
Convex edges are honed on both sides,
first on the diamond wheel to create the
edge, and then honed on the interior of
(Continued on page 33)
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eGroomer Journal July / September 2014
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(Continued from page 32)
the blade to make a razor edge.
Convex shears have little or no space
between the blades because they are so
sharp they “chop” through hair rather
than slicing to produce a beautiful cut
used in finish work.
Tension is
adjusted to the
point where
blades start to
grab one-third to
one-half the way
down from the
tips while keeping
the blades as
close as possible to each other. If the
tension is too loose on a convex shear
two things can happen, 1) the blades
may grab three-fourths of an inch from
the pivot creating a gouge, and 2) they
can fold hair at the tips.
Tension adjustments “adjust” the way
shears cuts. It is not for the convenience
or ease of the way the shears open and
close. Tension may be adjusted a little,
but if the shears feel loose by your
desire, that is actually not good. Instead
use shears with ball bearings in their
pivots. These shears feel loose no matter
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what their tension.
Clean shears daily. Wipe all hair from the
inside of blades. Otherwise the hair will
attract moisture and possibly rust.
If there is grime or hairspray use a Handi
-Wipe to rub it off. Never leave shears
dirty and you can avoid problems later.
Lubricate shears
with shear lube
only. It contains
silicon and a
light solvent. Not
lubricating can
cause the screw
to rust and not
stay tight.
Moisture can collect in your pivot from
scissoring. Lube gets rid of it. Not lubing
may cause tiny pieces of hair and pet
dander to remain in the pivot. This will
tighten the tension, slow the shear down,
and may cause a binding feel when
scissoring.
Lube the shear and then open and close
them a few times to spread the lube
around the pivot. Convex shears need to
be lubed more than beveled shears.
Never use blade oil on a shear. It will
stiffen over time. ♦
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“One of America’s Favorite Sharpeners”
Northern Tails Sharpening, Inc.
You Now Have a Better Choice!
Mail-in Prices
Steel Blades
$5.00
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$6.00
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$5.00
Refurbish 5-N-1 Blades
$10.00
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$10.00
Thinning Shears
$5.00
Clipper Repair ● Veterinarian Equipment ● Beauty Shears
We are a Certified Shark Fin® Sharpening Service
Check out our free instructional videos and articles
to help you maintain your clippers and blades. It’s free to download!
Please call or visit our website
for mailing information.
(251) 232-5353
SINCE 1995
www.northerntails.com
$5.00 RETURN SHIPPING ALL ORDERS
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Anthology of Related Blog Posts
Meet the Authors
Alphabetical Order
Barbara Bird, CMG
Barbara Bird, aka BBird, has been grooming since 1971 and opened Transformation Pet Center in Tucson,
Arizona in 1977. In the salon, BBird specializes in Bichons and scissored trims, hand stripping of Terriers,
and cat grooming. She has been writing and speaking to groomers for over a decade, and received the
Cardinal Crystal Achievement Award as Grooming Journalist of the Year for 2006 and 2007. A regular
contributor to Pet Age magazine, Barbara also writes for The Bichon Frise Reporter. She has authored and
self-published three books, including Beyond Suds and Scent - Understanding Pet Shampoos and
Conditioners. She has also developed a line of aromatherapy products, The Scented Groomer. She teaches
webinars online. eGroomer Journal Articles: A Study of the pH of Pet & Human Shampoos, July - September
2011 Issue, Styling Aids for Grooming the Canine Coat, October - December 2011 Issue, To Clip or Not to
Clip, April - June 2012 Issue, Silicones: A Quest for Truth Part One, January - March 2013 Issue, A Quest for
Truth Part Two, July - September 2013 Issue. Web Site: www.bbird.biz. Bbird’s GroomBlog http://
groomblog.blogspot.com. GroomWise Blog: Bbird Talk http://groomwise.typepad.com/bbird/
Daryl Conner, CFMG, Master Pet Stylist Meritus
Daryl Conner is a certified Petcare Dermatech Specialist, Master Pet Stylist, Meritus and Certified Master Cat
Groomer. A contributing editor to Pet Age Magazine, Daryl's musings have also been found in Dog World,
Groomer to Groomer, and on many Internet sites. She is the recipient of the coveted 2005 Cardinal Crystal
Award for Journalism and the '06 and '07 awards for Congeniality, Daryl is proud to be the U.S. Ambassador
for the German Red Clipper. Known for her fun and informative educational classes at grooming shows
across the country, Daryl's grounded, friendly style makes her an approachable and popular teacher. With
over 25 years grooming experience, Daryl's abiding love of animals and passion for our trade radiates out to
everyone she touches through her work. eGroomer Articles: Grooming Goddesses, October - December
2011 Issue. Giving Back, January - March 2012 Issue Web Site: www.darylconner.com. Blog: Hairs of the
Dogs http://groomwise.typepad.com/hairs_of_the_dogs/
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eGroomer Journal July / September 2014
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Anthology of Related Blog Posts, continued
eGroomer Journal July / September 2014
37
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Meet the Authors
Alphabetical Order
Melissa Francisco
Melissa Francisco is an award wining groomer and the owner of TransFURmations Mobile Pet Spa located
in upstate New York. She began her grooming career in 1995 while attending college and found that
grooming was her true calling. During her career she ran salons for a corporate store, a veterinarian, a
privately owned salon, and now her own mobile. Her passion for animals has led to a career she truly loves.
She is a member of the Professional Cat Groomers Association of America and enjoys her kitty clients as
much as her canine ones. Because caring for the animals is what this profession is truly all about, she is
most proud of her “Compassionate Groomer Award” that she received at her first ever competition in 2001.
She is a wife and mother of two young children and pet parent of four dogs and two cats. Web Site: http://www.transfurmations.com.
GroomWise Blog: Paws to Reflect http://groomwise.typepad.com/paws_to_reflect/
Debi Hilley
Debi Hilley has written articles for the GroomTeam USA newsletter, NEPGP newsletter, the Groomer's
Gazette and publishes her own website, Grooming Smarter. Some of the topics she covers include wet
clipping, dematting, using snap-on combs and grooming the Cocker Spaniel. Debi has written a book on CD
for dematting and another for Teddy Bear head styling. Currently she is writing another book for every day
pet grooming styles for use in the salon. Web Site: http://www.groomingsmarter.com. GroomWise Blog:
Grooming Smarter http://groomwise.typepad.com/grooming_smarter/
Mary Oquendo, CMPTI, CCS
Owner and stylist of Pawsitively Pretty Mobile Grooming Salon in Danbury, Connecticut, I am one of only 13
Certified Master Pet Tech Instructors worldwide. My well-attended first aid and other pet educational
seminars are offered across the country. I take a holistic approach to handling animals, and this is evident in
my titles of both Reiki Master and Certified Crystal Therapist. I am the East Coast Chair of the Professional
Cat Groomers Association of America, as well as a Certified Master Cat Groomer and certifier. I am a proud
member of the New England Pet Grooming Professionals organization, and am a Certified Canine Specialist
with PIJAC.I am the founder of Pawsitive Educational Training, The online source for continuing pet
education. I was nominated for the coveted Cardinal Crystal Mobile Groomer of the Year in 2011. My passion
is to bring educational opportunities to groomers and pet owners everywhere. I share my heart and home
with my husband Ernesto and 4 spoiled dogs. eGroomer Articles: DIY Pet First Aid Kit, July - September
2011 Issue, Ears, Pads & Eyes First Aid, January - March 2012 Issue, Coping with Pet Loss Grief, October-December 2012 Issue, But
You Look...So Normal, October - December 2013 Issue. Web Site: http://www.maryoquendo.org. GroomWise Blog: Pet First Aid &
Care http://groomwise.typepad.com/pet_first_aid_care/
Heated Cage Dryer Awareness Day Anthology
Begins on the Next Page
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Publications
HEATED CAGE DRYER AWARENESS
DAY - JUNE
13, 2014
eGroomer Journal July / September 2014
Anthology of Five Related Blog Posts
Wake Up Call! The Dangers of Heat Stress!
By Barbara Bird, CMG
I was horrified to get a call from a
fellow grooming blogger that another
precious pet had perished at the
groomer's as a result of overheating
from a heated cage dryer. How many of
these incidents have to happen before
this industry wakes up? Heat is deadly.
Period. Heat exhaustion can be fatal.
Dogs that survive can be permanently
damaged with kidney failure, brain
damage, and never be the same. Death
by heat does not just happen in hot
cars, it can happen in the grooming
salon, it could happen TO YOU!
In the wake of another story of a pet
death occurring in a grooming salon, it
is of vital importance that all
professional groomers review our
operations and become acutely aware
of the possibility of heat stress and
heat exhaustion in ANY grooming
environment.
It is common following a fatal accident
at the groomers that other
professionals immediately distance
themselves from the unfortunate event.
In other words, rather than thinking
"There for the grace of God go I," the
groomers say, "THAT could never
happen to me."
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How quickly we play the Blame Game,
naming the person who left the puppy
in the heated cage, the shop where it
occurred (we have a 'salon', THEY have
a 'shop'), the use of a heated dryer, the
failure to use a timer on the dryer, the
manufacturer for selling a dryer that
gets too hot and does not shut off
automatically when the temperature
reaches a certain point.
Some might raise the question that the
dog may have had a health problem, or
a predisposition to heat stroke.
SOMEONE (ELSE) must be held
responsible!
(Continued on page 39)
Anthology of Five Blog Posts
Copyrighted Material of Each Author
1. Wake Up Call! The Dangers of Heat
Stress! by Barbara Bird, CMG
2. Things to Think About Before Cage
Drying That Pet! by Daryl Conner,
CFMG, Master Pet Stylist Meritus
3. Heated Cage Dryer Awareness by
Melissa Francisco
4. R.I.P. Bugzy 2011 - 2014 by Mary
Oquendo
5. Heated Cage Dryer Awareness Day
2014, Four Principles of Effective
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Accidents happen when a number of
factors line up. For example:
Here is something else that we should
all look at:
A self-absorbed bather steps outside for
an extended smoke break. A dog is left
unattended in a cage with a heated
dryer going. The dryer does not have a
automatic timer or shut off. There is
tension between the bathing staff and
management, and management is
letting them "cool off," and is not
providing supervision to the back room.
The canine SPECIES is predisposed to
heat exhaustion. Heat exhaustion
occurs when the ambient (surrounding)
temperature and humidity are above
tolerable levels and the animal's body
begins to acquire heat from the
environment faster than it can dissipate
that heat.
No procedures for use of cage dryers or
signs of heat exhaustion are posted. It
is a high volume, high stress operation
and it is easy for half an hour to slip by.
Groomers are focused on what's
happening on their tables, not what's
happening in cages.
It's hot in the grooming environment to
start with and everyone is just dealing
with it. Time is of the essence so the
dryer is cranked up on high.
Temporary summer help does not
necessarily know the signs of heat
exhaustion in the pet, or how fast it can
happen.
Any one or two of these factors could
occur without a fatality resulting. But
should several line up, you have a
recipe for disaster. In order to prevent
fatalities and illnesses related to heat
stress at our jobs, we have to constantly
be aware of ALL the factors ALL the
time.
In dogs and cats that have very few
sweat glands to begin with the only
means of dissipating excess body heat
is via panting. This movement of air
over the moist tongue and airway
surfaces increases evaporative cooling
(unless the ambient humidity is 100
percent). Unfortunately, panting is a
rather inefficient means of dissipating
body heat and actually generates some
heat due to the muscle activity
involved.
Keep in mind that as an animal is
confined to a closed space the expired
air, which is at 100 percent humidity
and 102 degrees, will eventually
increase the ambient humidity and
temperature of the animal's space.
Heat exhaustion is not just a function of
temperature. The factors that may
interact to create heat stress and can
lead to heat exhaustion or heat stroke
are: Room air temperature, external
heat source, humidity, confinement,
(Continued on page 40)
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ventilation and air circulation, animal's
ability to breathe and pant.
Availability of drinking water is another
factor. Humidity level is a big factor in
how much evaporation can occur.
Evaporation affects not only the hair
drying, but also the dog/cat's ability to
dissipate the heat. When the ambient
humidity reaches 100%, the pantingcooling mechanism is worthless. Since
the dog is exhaling 100% humid air, the
size and structure of the confined space
is another important variable. Also, the
dog is exhaling hot air, 102 degrees, so
an unventilated small box can become
deadly at a very low external heat, even
as low as 85 degrees.
The practice of covering a cage with a
dryer on it can be deadly, even if the
dryer heat is less than 100 degrees,
because the dog itself is heating and
humidifying the air inside.
Even without an external heat source, a
covered cage can become an oven,
especially if there is an excitable dog in
there, or an animal with compromised
cooling ability. Having water available
can help, as water on the tongue cools
down the air the dog is inhaling and
helps to regulate the internal
temperature.
Dogs at Greatest Risk
There are certain dogs or certain
conditions that make heat exhaustion
more of a concern:
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Dogs with short noses, pushed in faces,
or poor breathing mechanisms. Shih
Tzu, Pugs, Pekingese, Boxers, Bulldogs,
are all at high risk of rapid heat
exhaustion. Shar Pei has also been
identified. Don't forget Persian cats.
Dogs with collapsed trachea or
respiratory problems. Any dog that is
wheezing, coughing, breathing heavily
or shallow breathing.
Muzzled dogs - dogs wearing muzzles
cannot breathe or pant efficiently on
warm days. Heat strokes have been
reported in dogs standing under a
grooming parlor dryer while muzzled.
Fat dogs.
Very old dogs.
Very young dogs.
Dogs with heart difficulties.
Dogs with hypothyroidism or Cushings
Disease that have trouble with internal
temperature regulation.
Dogs on certain medications, especially
diuretics.
Excessively excitable dogs or dogs who
are distressed from separation or
kennel anxiety.
According to Joy Butler, a writer for
Suite 101, "Some dogs can have a heat
stroke in an air conditioned room if they
become overexcited and active."
(Continued on page 41)
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Dogs that arrive overheated, from a ride
in a hot car, or having been heavily
exercised.
Dogs that have previously experienced
heat exhaustion or heat stroke.
Another important factoid that is
worthy of repeating: The dog's breath
being exhaled is 102 degrees and 100
percent humidity. Put that dog in a
poorly ventilated crate, and there could
be overheating without the presence of
an external heat source, especially if
the room hair is warm and humid.
Add another couple of factors, such as
no one watching dogs in crates, or a
dog with a breathing problem to start
with and again you have a line-up that
could lead to an accident.
One misconception that we must dispel
is that a dog that is overheating is going
to get frantic and somehow signal to us
that it's dying. NOT SO!
A dog is not necessarily going to try to
claw its way out of a hot cage, nor is it
always able to bark if it is busy
hyperventilating. The dog can just sit or
lay there and stare out and be
overcome.
Signs of Heat Exhaustion

Rapid, frantic panting

Wide eyes, fixed stare

Not responsive, "out of it."

Thick saliva
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
Bright red tongue, or blue-grey
tongue and gums

Vomiting or Diarrhea

Extreme thirst

Staggering, inability to stand

Collapse or Coma
What To Do
Not all of these symptoms need to be
present. If a dog is panting, has a
staring expression, is unresponsive and
has a cherry red tongue, you've got a
problem. If a dog has vomiting and
diarrhea and is unable to stand, you've
got a problem.
What will tell you if you have heat
stroke is obtaining a rectal
temperature. Every first aid kit should
contain a rectal thermometer. If the
pet's temperature is over 104 degrees,
you've got an emergency. The dog
should be cooled and transported to the
nearest vet immediately.
If the temperature is 106 or hovering
around 106, you have a life-threatening
situation. You should take measures to
rapidly reduce the temperature. Each
minute at that temperature can mean
brain damage and irreversible damage
to internal organs. Cool the dog. Placing
wet towels on the dog and putting him
under a fan is one way. Wetting the
groin area also can help.
(Continued on page 42)
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When the temperature cools to 104 or
103, stop cooling efforts or you may
cause a too rapid loss of temperature.
Prevention Tactics
Monitor room temperature and
humidity, and temperature inside
cages, especially if there is a heated
cage dryer in use. Digital thermometers
are available that are the size of credit
cards and can clip to the inside of
kennels.
Use timers when using heat-producing
dryers, especially cage dryers. With the
right line-up of factors, fatal heat stroke
can happen in 15 minutes. This is why
the 10 minutes on, 10 minutes off for
cool down, is a recommended
procedure.
Some groomers use backup timers in
case the timer on the dryer fails or you
don't hear it.
Do not muzzle dogs in heated cage
dryers or on tables with hot air dryers.
Clearly establish that pet safety is the
responsibility of every employee.
Post the signs of heat exhaustion in a
conspicuous place.
Consider using fans. Many groomers
have moved away from using heated
cage dryers and use fans around wire
cages or ambient air dryers like the
Sahara Turbo.
Improve room air circulation - adding
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exhaust ventilation to the bathing room,
or placing fans around your premises in
such a way that air is constantly moving
helps make cooler air available to your
pet guests.
Consider investing in a dehumidifier.
With dogs exhaling 100% humidity, and
high velocity dryers forcing water off
dogs and into the air, the chances are
your drying room could have high
enough humidity level that it could be
adding to the risk of heat stress. This
possibility is greatly increased if you are
using swamp cooling rather than air
conditioning or work in an area of high
humidity. Not only will this investment
make your premises safer for animal
guests and employees, the
dehumidifying will reduce drying times.
Have water available for your guests. A
really nice gesture is to have a bowl of
water or a recirculating fountain system
near the front door of your
establishment. Dogs can cool off after
their trip, and owners can see that you
are aware and care. In the back, dogs
at risk or dogs having an extended stay
(over three hours) should be offered
water. Hanging water bowls for cages
is a good summertime practice.
Create a cooling cage. A wire crate
with fans around it and a cooling pad is
an option for those guests who easily
overheat.
(Continued on page 44)
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(Continued from page 42)
Conclusion
It is important to recognize that heat
stress and the potential for heat
exhaustion and fatal heat stroke are a
concern for all pet grooming
operations.
Although heated cage dryers and solid
wall cages are a formula for potential
problems, it is not the drying method
nor the equipment that is to blame for
pet deaths. Accidents happen when
heat is not used responsibly, and the
danger of heat and animals is not
appreciated. All employees need to be
aware of the signs of heat exhaustion
and be able to identify animals at
higher risk. Risk factors need to be
determined by asking the right
questions of the owner. Whether or not
a groomer continues to use heat
producing cage dryers is a professional
choice. These dryers have been around
for decades and are used responsibly in
hundreds, maybe thousands of
grooming establishments each day
without incident.
Automobiles are involved in fatal
accidents; is that a reason to stop
driving? No. We try to make cars safer.
Cage dryers can be made safer by the
installation of internal timers, heat
sensors and automatic shut off, and
such. Groomers who wish to continue
using heated cage dryers need to start
asking for safety features, and
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appreciating that saving one little life is
far more important than having a dryer
without an annoying timer that shuts it
off before the dog is dry. Even groomers
who refuse to use heated dryers are not
immune to the problems of heat stress,
however. Given the right line-up of
factors - a hot grooming room, humidity
that has accumulated during hours of
high velocity drying, an animal with a
compromised respiratory system or a
heart condition, and wham - IT COULD
HAPPEN TO YOU!
What makes the matter so important is
that the internal effects of heat stroke
can be irreversible and if a dog
survives, it can be messed up for life or
live a considerably shorter time. In the
summer months it is important that all
groomers raise their alert level to the
possibility of an overheating incident
happening. ♦
Anthology of Five Blog Posts
Copyrighted Material of Each Author
1. Wake Up Call! The Dangers of Heat
Stress! by Barbara Bird, CMG
2. Things to Think About Before Cage
Drying That Pet! by Daryl Conner,
CFMG, Master Pet Stylist Meritus
3. Heated Cage Dryer Awareness by
Melissa Francisco
4. R.I.P. Bugzy 2011 - 2014 by Mary
Oquendo
5. Heated Cage Dryer Awareness Day
2014, Four Principles of Effective
Drying by Debi Hilley
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HEATED CAGE DRYER AWARENESS
DAY - JUNE
13, 2014
eGroomer Journal July / September 2014
Anthology of Five Related Blog Posts
Things to Think About Before Cage Drying That Pet!
By Daryl Conner
In the pet styling world, there are two
basic types of dryers designed to
remove moisture from the coats of
dogs and cats. There are dryers that
have heating elements and those that
do not. That seems pretty simple, but in
reality it is one hot topic. So hot, in fact,
that some consumers and even some
legislators want to ban the use of
certain types of heated pet dryers.
Read on to learn what’s when it’s cool
to use heat.
water from an animal’s coat. Typically
these dryers come in models that are
mounted on tall stands, (stand dryers)
or a short base (table dryers.) And there
are those configured to hang on the
front of a cage. However, any type of
dryer that directs heated air into a cage
can be dangerous. This is because of
the simple fact that directing heat into
an enclosed environment that contains
a living, breathing animal can be a
recipe for disaster.
Unheated dryers, such as High Velocity
dryers, use just the mechanical action
of air blowing on the coat to remove
water. These dryers produce air that is
warmer than room temperature
because of the heat of their motors, but
they do not have actual heating
elements. There are also cage dryers
available that use just air flow with no
heating elements to dry dogs.
Every year the news media reports
cases where pets are injured or killed
from developing heat stress or heat
exhaustion due to the use of cage
dryers. Some other dogs even receive
life threatening thermal burns on their
skin after being exposed to cage dryers.
Dryers with heating elements, much
like human hair dryers, combine the
mechanical action of moving air with
varying degrees of heat to remove
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The problems may occur when:

The pet has an existing health
problem that is aggravated by the
warm environment.

The pet is a breed which is prone to
overheating (see below for more
(Continued on page 46)
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information.)
all? We use them because:

The pet is left in the warm, humid
environment for too long and is
unable to regulate its body
temperature.

Temperatures become too warm for
the safety of the pet.
A damp dog can become chilled
(hypothermic) if it is exposed to cooler
than body temperatures over a period
of time. In a cool grooming
environment, blowing warm air on a
damp dog keeps it comfortable until it
is time for it to be finish dried on the
table. In a busy grooming shop, it
makes sense to bathe several dogs and
let some become partially dried while
waiting to be finish dried. Meanwhile
the groomer can be bathing, prepping
or finishing other dogs. Cage dryers can
be an enormous time saver.
This can happen when:

The temperature exceeds safe limits
due to dryer design.

The temperature exceeds safe limits
due to operator error.

The temperature exceeds safe limits
due to lack of proper air circulation
within the cage.

The temperature exceeds safe limits
due to a malfunction of the
equipment.
Keeping in mind that dogs do not cool
their bodies as humans do, by
perspiring, but rather by panting to
bring cool air through their moist
mouths and airways, it is obvious that if
the air the dog is breathing in is too
warm and moist that it can easily
become overheated. A normal body
temperature for a dog is 100.5 to
102.5. Many dryers designed for use on
pets put out air heated to 130 degrees
or higher.
Spending some quiet time in a cage
can offer an important rest period
during the grooming process for cats,
puppies, very nervous dogs and
geriatric dogs.
Many groomers have given up using
any type of traditional dryer during the
time they cage dry pets, opting instead
to use fans. The fans provide constant
movement of room temperature air
over the animal, opening the coat and
increasing the rate at which water
evaporates. As long as the air in the
grooming environment is warm enough
to prevent chilling, this can be an
(Continued on page 47)
So46why do groomers useCopyright
cage©dryers
at
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eGroomer Journal July / September 2014
excellent option. Other groomers have
opted to use only cage dryers without
heating elements. Heated dryers have
been used for decades and many well
respected groomers continue to use
them safely. When the danger of using
heat is understood and appreciated by
all staff members, dryers are kept in
good repair and used judiciously, heated
dryers are much like any tool. They can
be useful if used properly or dangerous
if operated carelessly.
A Dozen Do’s and Don’ts
47
PetGroomer.com Publications

Do take steps to improve circulation
of room air in the grooming area.

Do make certain that cage dryers are
properly maintained.

Do make certain that timers on cage
dryers function properly.

Do use a high velocity dryer to
remove moisture from the coat and
to open the coat before cage drying.
This will reduce cage drying time and
produce a higher quality finish on the
coat.

Do only use cage dryers on cages
with good air flow.
Dryer Do’s


Do only use dryers on the warm
setting.
Do only use cage dryers when there is
someone there to monitor the pet at
all times.

Do have cage drying procedures in
place and familiarize all employees
with those procedures.

Do post signs of heat stress for all
employees to see.

Do consider adding thermometers to
all drying cages.

Do provide drinking water in all drying
cages.

Do use a dehumidifier in the
grooming area.
eGroomer Journal
Dryer Don’ts

Don’t use cage dryers on the “hot”
setting.

Don’t use heated dryers on high risk
animals such as those that are sick,
overweight, very old, very young, have
breathing problems, chronic health
problems or are tranquilized.

Don’t use cage dryers in metal cages.
Metal conducts heat.

Don’t use cage dryers on enclosed
cages such as airline type kennels.

Don’t use cage dryers on any cage
that is draped with towels or has the
air flow blocked. Good air flow is a
(Continued on page 50)
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(Continued from page 47)
must in drying cages.

Don’t use cage dryers on
brachycephalic (short nosed) animals
such as Pugs, Bulldogs, Persian cats.

Don’t leave a muzzled animal in a
cage dryer for any reason.

Don’t use a table or stand dryer
pointed at a cage with the heat on.
These dryers are designed to use in
an open area and often heat up to
higher temperatures (some up to
155F) than cage dryers.

Don’t leave animals unsupervised in a
drying cage.

Don’t think that a dog suffering heat
stress will call attention to itself by
barking or behaving in a remarkable
manner. See sidebar for signs of heat
stress.

Don’t underestimate the danger
heated dryers can present.

Don’t delay seeking veterinary
assistance if you suspect a dog is
suffering from heat stress. Immediate
treatment is of vital importance.
On internet grooming sites, the topic of
safer heated dryers often is brought up.
As consumers, we need to convey our
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concerns to dryer manufactures. Lower
temperature machines, heat sensors
that shut off hot dryers and reliable
timers are all excellent safety features
that could be built in to cage dryers.
Chuck Simons, popular grooming
educator (Groomers Helper, http://
www.chucksimons.com/) wrote on the
Internet discussion board at
www.petgroomer.com, “All kennel dryers
should be in plain sight of the groomers,
temperatures should not go over 80
degrees, time in the dryer should not go
over 15-20 minutes and there should be
an automatic shut-off. We need to make
these dryers “Stupid Proof”. To increase
the time and temperature should take a
concentrated effort and procedure so
that if a groomer does hurt an animal
because they increased the time and
temperature they are clearly
responsible.”
Recent bills introduced to license pet
groomers are often in response to a pet
being killed or injured in a cage drying
incident. In response to this, one
groomer said, “You can’t legislate
common sense.” As professional pet
groomers, our job is so much more than
properly styling pets. We must be
(Continued on page 51)
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constantly vigilant about the safety and
well being of the lives that are entrusted
to us. In order to do this we must be
aware of all potential dangers to dogs
and cats in our care.
Chuck Lauritzen, (asst. director ISCC,
Garland, TX) wrote on the
www.dogster.com forum in 2007, “There
may be explanations for accidental
occurrences, but the reputations of
professional pet stylists/groomers are
deteriorating into that of an industry that
is replete with incompetence and
negligence for which there can be
neither excuses nor any acceptable
vernacular to dismiss their culpability for
the absence of common sense and
judicious decisions.”
He continued, “Pet stylists/groomers
must be imbued with the character and
integrity to be accountable for their
actions and the consequences thereof,
while also recognizing that their
methods and practices demand a critical
evaluation of the parameters that will
strictly define their continued usage.
This prescription is a very subjective
interpretation, but it behooves the pet
stylists/groomers to endorse and adopt
the ethical standards that will govern
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their conduct and behavior to eradicate
the preventable injuries and loss of life
that have become a blight upon the
reputation and public image of the
entire pet styling/grooming profession.
Should the pet stylists/groomers be
unable to invoke the uncompromising
guidelines by which safe, effective and
humane methods and practices become
the minimal standard of care, then the
intrusion of government regulations and
the judiciary system into the daily
activities of our businesses and our lives
is inevitable.”
(http://www.dogster.com/forums/
Grooming/thread/389401/3)
♦
Anthology of Five Blog Posts
Copyrighted Material of Each Author
1. Wake Up Call! The Dangers of Heat
Stress! by Barbara Bird, CMG
2. Things to Think About Before Cage
Drying That Pet! by Daryl Conner, CFMG,
Master Pet Stylist Meritus
3. Heated Cage Dryer Awareness by
Melissa Francisco
4. R.I.P. Bugzy 2011 - 2014 by Mary
Oquendo
5. Heated Cage Dryer Awareness Day 2014,
Four Principles of Effective Drying by
Debi Hilley
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HEATED CAGE DRYER AWARENESS
DAY - JUNE
13, 2014
eGroomer Journal July / September 2014
Anthology of Five Related Blog Posts
Heated Cage Dryer Awareness
By Melissa Francisco
I've never understood why we are such
crusaders against leaving dogs in hot
cars but then not consistently not realize
the same dangers hold true with heated
cage dryers. We need to bring attention
to this issue before more dogs are
accidentally injured or killed.
Several years ago after an interview with
a veterinarian he invited me to go look
at his grooming salon area to see if I
wanted the position. When I walked in I
was horrified to find that there were
several dogs in kennels with heated
dryers on them and no one around. The
kennel staff had been giving boarders
baths and were using the grooming area
to dry the dogs. Education about using
heat for cage drying became a personal
mission of mine for the entire staff and
throughout my career.
One of the biggest issues in my opinion
is the high temperatures many dryers
can reach and the lack of instructions
that accompany the dryers. Especially if
you are walking into a salon with
equipment already in use that you are
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unfamiliar with. To demonstrate the
severity of the dangers that the dryers at
the vet hospital posed I turned each one
on high, the setting the kennel staff was
using, and measured the temperature
from 8 inches away.
I measured it in an open room, not an
enclosed cage, and still the
temperatures ranged from 110-130
degrees Fahrenheit. After speaking with
other groomers who have done similar
experiments I have been told other
dryers can go well over 160 degrees
Fahrenheit. This type of heat and high
temperature simply isn't necessary. It is
a disaster waiting to happen.
The more moisture in the air the less
oxygen it can hold. If you have ever
taken a long hot shower without proper
ventilation you know it can become
harder to breathe. Chances of causing
harm increase dramatically if you have
an older pet, a brachiocephalic pet, or
one with health issues. In order to
prevent harm we need to know about
(Continued on page 53)
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the equipment on hand and how to use
it safely. An easy way to know what
temperature your dryer reaches is to set
it up as you normally would and put a
thermometer in the kennel. Measure
after about 20 minutes of running.
Repeat these tests should regularly
(every 3 to 4 months). Remember dryers
operating improperly may reach
different temperatures.
Dryer safety is a must in every salon. A
few simple steps can prevent a tragedy.
After you determine your dryers’
temperatures set them to about 75
degrees or so. Make sure your cage
drying room is well ventilated and add a
dehumidifier. Hang a thermometer on
the wall and place a chart next to it
where each hour someone comes to
check on the ambient room
temperature. Write each measurement
down with initials of the recorder.
Any temperature over 80 degrees and all
dryers with heat elements need to be
turned off or set to air only. Set cage
dryer timers to no more 15 minutes at a
time. Be careful of cage dryers with built
in timers as I've seen those get stuck or
fail. A back up egg timer is cheap and
safe. Any dogs exhibiting signs of
overheating should be attended to
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immediately. Signs of overheating are
profuse and rapid panting, bright red
tongue, glassy wide-eyed look, vomiting,
diarrhea, acting "drunk", thick drool and
coma.
I am not against the use of heated cage
dryers when used properly and
responsibly. I found them quite useful
when dealing with very young puppies
and senior pets working for the
veterinarian. The dryers themselves
have no need to get as hot as they do
and I have asked some of the
companies, without answers, why the
temperatures can get so high. If the
companies making the dryers will not
be responsible for how hot they get, we
as the professionals need to make sure
we are. ♦
Anthology of Five Blog Posts
Copyrighted Material of Each Author
1. Wake Up Call! The Dangers of Heat
Stress! by Barbara Bird, CMG
2. Things to Think About Before Cage
Drying That Pet! by Daryl Conner,
CFMG, Master Pet Stylist Meritus
3. Heated Cage Dryer Awareness by
Melissa Francisco
4. R.I.P. Bugzy 2011 - 2014 by Mary
Oquendo
5. Heated Cage Dryer Awareness Day
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HEATED CAGE DRYER AWARENESS
DAY - JUNE
13, 2014
eGroomer Journal July / September 2014
Anthology of Five Related Blog Posts
R.I.P. Bugzy 2011—2014
By Mary Oquendo
It is with great sadness that I announce
the unexpected death of Bugzy. He
leaves behind his mom and dad, 3 twolegged siblings aged 9, 5 and
4, as well as two four-legged
brothers.
His tearful Mom recounts, “I
left my baby in what I
thought to be the capable
hands of a well-respected
groomer. A few hours later I
got a phone call. I was
expecting a call around that
time to come and pick him
up. Instead I had to decipher
the words of a sobbing groomer as she
explained that she had found Bugzy
dead in the drying kennel. I was in
shock. It didn’t seem real.”
Every year we hear the same story.
EVERY. SINGLE. YEAR.
Why didn’t the groomer notice that
Bugzy was in distress? There are several
possible reasons that come to mind:
1. The drying cages were out of her field
of vision.
2. She did not regularly check on pets
while they were drying
because they were out of
her field of vision.
3. She couldn’t see that
Bugzy was in distress
because he was out of her
field of vision.
Do we see the connection
here? There was no one
monitoring the pets while
they were exposed to heat
with little to no air circulation.
Heatstroke begins when the pets’ body
temperature surpasses 104 degrees.
The factors that set the stage for
heatstroke is when the temperature in
their environment (cage dryer) becomes
higher than their body temperature with
little or no air circulation (cage), high
humidity (heavy panting) and close
quarters (cage).
(Continued on page 55)
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The risk is much higher if groomers
cover cages with towels to speed up
drying. This is the exact same scenario
when people leave their pets in a hot car
to go shopping.
Signs of heatstroke include lethargy,
heavy breathing and panting, bright red
gums and tongue, vomiting and
diarrhea. Heatstroke can cause shock,
respiratory distress, kidney failure, and
heart abnormalities among other
complications.
Damage can become irreversible once
their body temperature reaches 106
degrees. Death follows. It is imperative
that the pet receives medical attention
before their temperature reaches 106
degrees. The only way to prevent this is
with constant monitoring of the drying
area. Minutes can make the difference
between the life, quality of life, and
death.
Very young, very old, immune
compromised, brachycephalic (dogs with
pushed in faces), pregnant, and nursing
dogs, as well as all cats are more
susceptible to heatstroke.
What can be done if heatstroke occurs?
1. Remove the pet from the hot
environment!
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2. Lower the body temperature by
wetting with cool water.
3. Do not use cold water or ice water. It
is counterproductive. It will shock the
system and cause a thermal barrier.
The pet will be unable to cool itself.
4. Contact a veterinarian for
instructions.
5. Transport to veterinarian as soon as
possible.
This is a preventable accident. Drying
cages are one of our tools. Use it
responsibly. If you do not have someone
to monitor the pets while drying, then
table dry them. There is an empty home
right now that needn’t be.
For Pet Owners:
1. Ask questions. If the groomer is too
busy to answer them, find another.
2. Ask to see the drying area. Notice if it
is in their normal field of vision. If not,
ask if someone is stationed there.
3. Find a groomer that table dries. Not
all dogs are candidates for table
drying. The loud noise of the high
velocity dryers is too much for some
pets.
♦
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HEATED CAGE DRYER AWARENESS
DAY - JUNE
13, 2014
eGroomer Journal July / September 2014
Anthology of Five Related Blog Posts
Heated Cage Dryer Awareness Day 2014
Four Principles of Effective Drying
Compilation of Two Blogs by Debi Hilley
Another pet has died in a tragic,
uncalled for drying accident. It SHOULD
NOT be happening at all but it happens
all the time. Unfortunately there are no
solid statistics on how often it happens,
but even ONE death is way too many and
the madness needs to stop!
I want to start off by sharing my story.
About 15 years ago I had a lab mix
come into my shop for a shavedown. All
went well. Dog was well mannered. Easy
groom. No issues. Went from our place
to the vet clinic for shots and an exam.
No issues found at all according to the
vet records.
Fast forward three days and I get a call
saying he has a sore on his hip and they
are taking him to the Emergency Vet
clinic. It was seen and treatment
prescribed. Several days later I get
another phone call saying the dog had a
severe thermal burn and it was
spreading as tissue died!
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Well, I was in shock as to why they were
telling me this when I don't have a dryer
with heat. I knew this did not happen in
my shop. It had to have happened at
home or at the vet clinic, but I KNEW
that when he left my shop he was fine.
The vets could not give me a definite
diagnosis, but the dog was undergoing
Burn therapy, including daily scrubbing
of necrotic tissue and skin grafts. The
vet bill 15 years ago was over $4,000.
Long story short, I refused to pay ANY
vet bill without proof we had caused the
injuries and got sued!
That began my investigations into how
dryers work and the most efficient
dryers to have in the salon. I spent hours
talking to the people at Sahara Dryers
and other groomers. I already knew that
fans worked better than most other
dryers, but this studying made me much
more determined than ever to never use
(Continued on page 57)
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a heated dryer.
I have used this knowledge to write
numerous articles on this subject and
preach heavily on the safety and
effectiveness of cool air dryers. I FIRMLY
believe that not one pet should ever die
from being groomed. There is no reason
for animals to die from heat!
I ask every single groomer who still uses
cage dryers this question: "Would you
leave your dog in the car with the
windows rolled up in summer?" You
always get a horrified look and an
adamant "NO!" and yet many people still
use a heated dryer pointed into a closed
on three sides cage or vari-kennel. In my
eyes there is not difference between the
two.
I have done testing with a stand dryer
pointed into a cage in my cage bank and
watched the temperature rise to over
120 degrees Fahrenheit in less than 5
minutes. Scary to think that in some
grooming shops or vet clinics there
would have been a dog in that cage!
I have reposted several articles I wrote in
the past few years to help educate you
on this serious veterinary public health
concern.
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By the way, the case against me was
resolved in my favor. It turns out that the
original diagnosis was a vaccine
abscess. How that got turned into a
thermal burn is beyond me.
However, there is no doubt that many
cases of death or serious injury occur
monthly in every country around the
world, mostly due to people who don't
use the equipment carefully and
properly.
My experience taught me a lot because I
was trying to protect myself. Many
people do not have that knowledge, and
while common sense tells you to not
allow dogs to overheat or to use dryers
that are capable of burns, but we all
know common sense is not so common
any longer.
I do put a fair amount of the
responsibility for these dryers causing
damage on the manufacturers. They
make dryers who get too hot. They put
no warning labels on the dryers and
there are no owners manuals provided
to show you how to safely use the
dryers.
If these dryers were made for use on
(Continued on page 58)
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humans there would be a massive recall
and warnings on the dryers. Because
they are made for pets, there are not. It
is sad, but it is factual.
Please take time to read the blogs
posted by Mary Oquendo, Daryl Conner,
Mellissa Francisco, Barbara Bird and
myself. Share them with everyone you
know! Pet groomers and pet owners
alike need to know the dangers of these
tools so that they can be used
responsibly and safely and so that
owners can ask informed questions to
protect their pets.
The Facebook page Heated Cage Dryers
Can Kill has stories and photos that will
help drive this point home. PLEASE!
Share this! Let's get the word out to as
many people as possible!
If we are vigilant and educate ourselves
and others as to what the dangers can
be and we can save lives! We are on the
front lines, and as such need to make
sure we protect as many animals as
possible.
Four Principles of Effective Drying
This post was originally posted in 2010
but it is a good one and I wanted to bring
it back for those of you who have not
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seen it yet.
For efficient drying of anything that is
wet, you need four things.
1. Extraction
2. Air Flow Volume
3. Dehumidification
4. Controlled Heat
By understanding how these principals
affect drying you can make your drying
process faster and safer while saving
yourself money on utility bills as well. I
found a lot of really good research has
been done on the topic by several
manufacturers of water damage
restoration equipment.
If you think about it, drying a carpet or
floor out uses the same types of
equipment we use in drying dogs and to
be honest, carpets and dog coats are
similar in that they are all fibrous and
when wet hold a lot of water that must
be removed safely without damaged
those fibers. By reading about how they
train their people to do the work of
water removal I learned a lot about
drying that can be transferred over to
dogs.
(Continued on page 59)
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Let's begin with Extraction. Simply
speaking that is the physical removal of
water. In dog grooming that is the most
important part of drying and it
accomplished by two major steps of the
drying process; towel drying and force
drying. Proper extraction of the water
can reduce your drying time drastically.
Towel drying is a critical part of the
drying process for most dogs. There are
many types of towels you can use.
Regular bath towels, microfiber towels,
moisture magnets or chamois and
Water Absorbers are all available and
effective. No matter which towel you
choose to use, there are key steps to
drying efficiently with a towel.
Begin by squeezing excess water out of
the coat with your hands while still in the
tub. Then, using a squeezing motion
again, absorb as much water as you can
with your towel. Change towels as they
get wet to maximize this step in the
process.
From the tub, after drying I place dogs
onto the drying table which in my case,
has a flannel covering on it with two or
three towels underneath it. This helps in
the extraction process by absorbing the
water from the feet, and the water that
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is going to be removed from the coat in
the next step of the process. If you have
a short coated dog, you can ruffle the
hair while toweling but in longer coats it
is a bad idea as it may tangle the coat.
Some people use towel warmers or
towels right out of the dryer to dry dogs
with. This does in fact speed up the
drying process and it allows the towels
to absorb more water.
A warm towel makes you and the
puppies more comfortable, so if
possible, use one that is warmed up.
Many places offer towel warmers for
sale at a reasonable price. Simply
search on the web and you will find ones
available in many places, but make sure
they will hold and heat the size of towels
you are using. Some designed for
human hair salons are designed to heat
smaller towels.
If you are using something other than
towels to dry, then a warmer is not an
option. The Moisture magnet s and
Absorber type towels work better when
they are wet to begin with. Simply wring
them out and they are ready to go back
to work again.
(Continued on page 60)
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Towel health tip: NEVER re-use towels
from one dog to another. Always use a
clean towel on each dog. The same is
true of the other types of towels as well.
Absorbers can be stored in a
Chlorhexidine solution in between dogs
and wrung out well, but otherwise, use a
fresh towel and wash between uses.
The next step in the extraction process
for us is force drying. By using a force
dryer to remove water from the coat we
can drastically reduce the drying time
and as a result get a better finish, as
well as getting the pet dryer faster for its
own comfort.
A good force dryer is essential to any pet
groomer in my opinion. Most of them do
not have added heat but pull air across
the motors to cool the motor, so the air
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coming out of the nozzle is warm,
generally 30-50 degrees above room
temperature when it exits the hose.
Once it comes out into the air, the
temperature is drastically reduced. So
while it feels hot in the hose the
temperature at which it contacts the
pets is much lower. Some dryers do not
pull air across the motors. As a result
you are getting room temperature air
that uses force to dry dogs.
You might, after a prolonged period of
use, find that the air warms up slightly,
but it does not get as hot as one that
does. You must decided for yourself
what you need in a dryer then choose
one accordingly.
(Continued on page 61)
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All of these dryers are great for removing
large quantities of water, and which one
you choose will depend largely on what
types of dogs you groom and what your
personal preference is. I like warmer air,
so I chose my dryers accordingly. I find
that I get a better fluff with heat, and
that the dogs dry a bit faster when using
a dryer that contains some heat, and I
can explain why that is in the next
section, but others feel like the added
heat is a detriment and prefer the cooler
air dryers.
Whatever you choose, make sure you
have enough power for the types of dogs
you groom. If you do a lot of the big
hairies, a larger, more powerful blower is
for you. If you do mostly smaller dogs
then you can get by with less force. For
me, I do a variety of dogs and prefer a
variable speed control, so I can adjust
the airflow to the job at hand, and my
dryers raise the temperature of the air
as well for what I feel is a better fluff out.
Whatever type of force dryer you choose
however, their principle purpose is water
extraction, and they do a great job of it.
Air Flow is the second key point in drying
dog coats. Air flow is critical to drying
dogs because it allows for evaporation of
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water left over after and even assists
DURING the extraction process. The
more air that passes through a coat the
faster the evaporation process will be. If
you think about it, clothes hung on a
clothesline on a day with no wind dry
slower and stiffer than clothes hung out
on days with lots of wind.
The wind, through air flow evaporation
techniques, dries the clothes faster and
the fibers are moved by the wind as well
preventing them from getting "stuck"
together, and they are softer. The same
principal applies to dog hair believe it or
not. The more air flow you can get
through the coat while it's drying, the
better the coat will feel and the faster it
will dry.
When choosing the right dryer, consider
how fast the airflow is. If it is just a
small amount of air, then the drying will
be less efficient. Remember, air flow
promotes evaporation. Air that is
stagnant cannot do that.
Ambient air dryers are the best at
moving large amounts of air. Box Fans,
stand fans, vortex dryers, and carpet
dryers, like the Sahara by Dri-Eaz are all
great at drying dogs fast and safely.
(Continued on page 62)
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I know some people think that a fan is
only blowing cold air across a dog so it
cannot dry well, but remember, we
already extracted water from the coat
and are now looking at air flow to
remove the remaining dampness. The
faster the airflow, the faster the dogs will
completely dry.
The ambient air dryers pull air across the
motors to cool them, so the room air
temperature can be raised dramatically
by these dryers, even though they do not
put out heat directly, so it is important to
keep an eye on the temperature in the
room. When used with open cages, like
wire crates, these are by far the fastest
and safest dryers available.
Cage selection is critical as well to the
drying process. Closed cages like cage
banks, or Vari-Kennels restrict airflow.
Wire cages allow the air to move past
and through the area, making them
much more efficient. You can even use
fans to direct the air in the direction you
want to the coat to lay. Place one on top
of a cage for a full coated dog, and
underneath for fluffier coats. There is no
end to their versatility.
If used correctly this drying technique
(large volume air flow) offers you
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versatility, safety and speed.
Dehumidification is critical to drying
dogs fast and easily. When you are
removing the water from the coat it is
going into the air. That water in the air
must be removed to maintain the
balance in the room. The more humid
the air gets the harder it is to dry dogs in
it.
That makes sense as it is also true of
carpets, laundry and even mud puddles.
The drier the air, the faster they dry out.
It is one reason carpet cleaners tell you
to run your air conditioner after they
clean your carpet. It reduces the relative
humidity in your home.
I run a secondary window air conditioner
in my drying rooms to keep the humidity
level and the temperature under control
without making the rest of the shop
cold.
You can use a dehumidifier if you are in
a colder climate and there are many to
choose from. Dri-Eaz makes a great one
that they sell to the pet industry but
there are many to choose from.
Dry air also reduces the chance of heat
stroke, because heat plus humidity are
(Continued on page 63)
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what usually lead to that occurring.
Temperature is the final step in the
process. Warm air is thirstier than cool
air. Warm air increases the rate of
evaporation. As a result, in cooler
climates, it may be necessary to use a
heated dryer at some point to raise the
temperature of the air that is being
passed over the dog.
This can happen by using a stand dryer,
a warm air high velocity dryer or a cage
dryer. Typically, most dehumidification
equipment works best at temperatures
between 70F and 90F so it is important
that the area pets are being dried at not
exceed or fall below those temperatures.
That range is also a safe, comfortable
temperature for most people and pets.
Anything hotter results in high humidity
and anything cooler results in lower
evaporation rates. Mobile groomers can
attest to the fact that when it's colder or
hotter their drying times increase.
Since the optimum temperature seems
to be relatively low I am at a loss to
understand why dryer manufacturers
make dryers that heat up to 155F. You
can see how the relatively low airflow
they offer coupled with the high heat in
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an enclosed area like a small cage can
be devastating to the pet and
unproductive for the groomer.
The best drying scenario for groomers is
high velocity removal of water from a
well towel dried dog, at a temperature of
70-90F and a low relative humidity,
using high volumes of air for
evaporation.
If you follow the basic principles you will
have a productive, efficient and safe
drying program.
♦
END OF BLOG POSTS
Anthology of Five Blog Posts
Copyrighted Material of Each Author
1. Wake Up Call! The Dangers of Heat
Stress! by Barbara Bird, CMG
2. Things to Think About Before Cage
Drying That Pet! by Daryl Conner,
CFMG, Master Pet Stylist Meritus
3. Heated Cage Dryer Awareness by
Melissa Francisco
4. R.I.P. Bugzy 2011 - 2014 by Mary
Oquendo
5. Heated Cage Dryer Awareness Day
2014, Four Principles of Effective Drying
by Debi Hilley
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EMPLOYMENT-JOBS
♦ PetSmart Groomer Employment
♦ PETCO Groomer Employment
Pet-Valu Groomer Employment
PetSuites of America Employment
Pet Extreme Stores Employment
Kriser’s Stores Groomer Employment
Petsense Stores Groomer Employment
Wilco Stores Groomer Employment
The Pet Club Groomer Employment
PetGroomer.com Publications
Intergroom Trade Show
SuperZoo Trade Show
Groom Classic Trade Show
U.S. Pet Pro Classic (see ISCC)
Pawsitive Educational Training
See also “Associations” top left of page
INSURANCE
HOME STUDY
BOOKS, DVDs,
STREAMING MEDIA
and WEBINARS
♦ All About Dog Grooming
♦ Learn2GroomDogs.com Streaming
♦ Paragon School Distance Learning
♦ Golden Paws Distance Learning
JKL Pet Grooming School
Jodi Murphy Instructional DVDs
Mobile Grooming Book Jodi Murphy
Dog Grooming Simplified Jodi Murphy
Super Styling Sessions DVDs
Groomadog Academy Home Study
Nat’l Assn. of Prof. Creative Groomers
National Cat Groomer Institute
Pawsitive Educational Training
Grooming Business in a Box®
PetGroomer.com Sponsors
See also the
PetGroomer.com
Resources Buyer’s Guide
www.petgroomerforums.com
Governor Insurance (for all groomers)
MOBILE GROOMING
♦ Wag’n Tails Mobile Conversions
♦ Hitch-on Mobile Pet Salons
Governor Insurance
Mobile Grooming Book - Jodi Murphy
GoMobile Conversions
Go Mobile and Succeed Book
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eGroomer
July / September
2014
A to
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123Pet Software
A Girl and Her Dog Productions
All About Dog Grooming
B-Air Dryers
Bandanas Unlimited
Bardel Bows & Finishing Touches
Barkleigh Productions
Best Shot® Pet Products
Clark Cages
Dog Grooming Near Me
Double K Industries
Element Shears, Tablehuggers, Canine Spa
Espree Products
Forever Stainless Steel
Golden Paws Consultants & Distance Learning
GoMobile Conversions
Governor Insurance
Groom Classic Trade Show
Groomadog Academy Home Study
Groomers Best, Inc.
Groomers Choice Pet Products
Groomers Helper
Hitch-on Mobile Pet Salons
Intergroom Trade Show
Int’l Professional Groomers Inc.
Int’l Society of Canine Cosmetologists
JKL Pet Grooming School
Jodi Murphy DVDs, Books, Apparel
Kim Laube & Co.
Kriser’s Stores Groomer Employment
Learn2GroomDogs.com
Love’s Sharpening
MDC Romani / Clipper Vac®
Madra Mor Canine Mud Treatments
Metro Air Force® Dryers
National Assn. of Prof. Creative Groomers
National Cat Groomers Institute
National Dog Groomers Association
Northern Tails Sharpening
Oster Professional Products
Paw-Fume Value Priced Colognes
Pawsitive Educational Training
Pet Extreme Groomer Employment
Pet Valu Employment (Canada)
Petco Employment
PetEdge Grooming Supplies
PetLinx Software
Petsense Stores Groomer Employment
PetSmart Employment
PetSuites of America Groomer Employment
PlaqClnz® Oral Hygiene
Quadruped Pet Care
Ryan’s Pet Supplies
Shampoo Lady Grooming Supplies
Showseason & Naturals Products
SmartPractice
Snyder Mfg. Co.
Super Styling Sessions DVDs & Seminars
SuperZoo
The Successful Pet Groomer (Book)
Ultralift Grooming Tables & Tubs
Wag’n Tails Mobile Conversions
WAHL Clipper Corporation
WI Assn. of Professional Pet Stylists
Wilco Stores Groomer Employment
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Publications
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www.chrissertzel.com
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www.b-air.com
www.bandanasunlimited.com
www.bardelbows.com
www.barkleigh.com
www.bestshotpet.com
www.clarkcages.com
www.doggroomingnearme.com
www.doublekindustries.com
www.chrissertzel.com
www.espree.com
www.foreverstainlesssteel.com
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www.gomobileconversions.com
www.governorins.com
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www.groomadog.com
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www.mygroomingtrailer.com
www.intergroom.com
www.ipgicmg.com
www.petstylist.com
www.jklgrooming.com
www.jodimurphy.net
www.kimlaubeco.com
www.krisers.com
www.learn2groomdogs.com
www.lovessharpening.com
www.mdcromani.com
www.madramormud.com
www.dogdryer.com
www.thenapcg.com
www.nationalcatgroomers.com
www.nationaldoggroomers.com
www.northerntails.com
www.osterpro.com
www.packaginggroupcorp.com/PawFume.htm
www.pawsitiveeducationaltraining.com
www.petextreme.com
www.petvalu.com
www.petco.com
www.petedge.com
www.petlinx.com
www.petsensellc.com
www.petsmartjobs.com
www.petsuitesamerica.com
www.plaqclnz.com
www.quadrupedpetcare.com
www.ryanspet.com
www.shampoolady.com
www.showseasonproducts.com
www.smartpractice.com/vet
www.snydermfg.com
www.caninegroomingsecrets.com
www.superzoo.org
www.gomobileandsucceed.com
www.tablesntubs.com
www.wagntails.com
www.wahlanimal.com
www.wisconsinpetstylists.org
www.wilco.coop
© 2014 Find A Groomer Inc. All rights reserved
SCHOOLS OF PET GROOMING - ON-SITE TRAINING
eGroomer Journal July / September 2014
73
PetGroomer.com Publications
DIAMOND LEVEL SPONSORS
Golden Paws Schools (several locations listed below in Platinum Level)
Institute of Technical Arts (Florida)
Paragon Pet Grooming School (Michigan)
PLATINUM PLUS LEVEL SPONSORS
Clip Shoppe School of Dog Grooming (New Jersey)
PLATINUM LEVEL SPONSORS
Pennsylvania Academy of Pet Grooming
Sensational Stylings Academy of Grooming (IL)
Nanhall Professional School of Grooming (NC)
Texas Allbreed Grooming School
Golden Paws School of Dog Styling (TX)
Dapper Dawg School of Prof. Grooming (MA)
Golden Paws Pet Styling Academy (KY)
Golden Paws Pet Styling Academy (NY)
Golden Paws Pet Styling Academy (IL)
National Cat Groomers Institute of America (SC)
Groomadog Academy (SC)
Michigan School of K9 Cosmetology
American Grooming Academy (CA)
Merryfield School of Pet Grooming (FL)
O.C. Academy of Pet Styling (CA)
Just Four Paws Academy of Pet Styling (PA)
Golden Paws Pet Styling Academy (WI)
Golden Paws Pet Styling Academy (PA)
Golden Paws Pet Styling Academy (FL)
GOLD PLUS LEVEL 2 SPONSORS
Zoom Zoom Groom Academy of Pet Grooming (Canada)
GOLD PLUS LEVEL 1 SPONSORS
Academy of Dog Grooming Arts (IL)
Canine Clippers Grooming School (VA)
Oregon Pet Grooming Academy
eGroomer Journal www.egroomer.com Subscribe Free
South Carolina School of Dog Grooming
Pets Playground Grooming School (FL)
Cindy’s Canine Companions Grooming Classes (PA)
© 2014 Find A Groomer Inc. All rights reserved
A to
Z ListJournal
of Sponsors
Except
On-Site Schools
eGroomer
July / September
2014
Academy of Dog Grooming Arts (IL)
American Grooming Academy (CA)
Canine Clippers Grooming School (VA)
Cindy’s Canine Companion Grooming Classes (PA)
Clip Shoppe Dog Grooming School (NJ)
Dapper Dawg School of Prof. Grooming (MA)
Golden Paws Pet Styling Academy (FL)
Golden Paws Pet Styling Academy (IL)
Golden Paws Pet Styling Academy (NY)
Golden Paws Pet Styling Academy (PA)
Golden Paws Pet Styling Academy (WI)
Golden Paws Schools
Golden Paws School of Dog Styling (TX)
Groomadog Academy (SC)
Institute of Technical Arts (FL)
Just Four Paws Academy of Pet Styling (PA)
Merryfield School of Pet Grooming (FL)
Michigan School of K9 Cosmetology
Nanhall Professional School of Grooming (NC)
National Cat Groomers Institute of America (SC)
New York School of Dog Grooming (NYC)
O.C. Academy of Pet Styling (CA)
Oregon Pet Grooming Academy
Paragon Pet Grooming School (MI)
Pennsylvania Academy of Pet Grooming
Pets Playground Grooming School (FL)
Nanhall Professional School of Grooming (NC)
Sensational Stylings Academy of Grooming (IL)
South Carolina School of Dog Grooming
Texas Allbreed Grooming School
Zoom Zoom Groom Academy of Grooming (Canada)
74
Call 800-556-5131
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PetGroomer.com
Publications
www.academyofdoggrooming.com
www.americangroomingacademy.com
www.canine-clippers.com
www.cindyscaninecompanions.com
www.clipshoppeschoolofdoggrooming.com
™
www.thedapperdawg.com
www.goldenpawsmiami.com
www.goldenpawschicago.com
Outfit a Grooming Business
www.pinkdogparlor.com/school.htm
www.goldenpawspittsburghpa.com
PetGroomerCD™ includes truly
www.goldenpawswi.com
professional quality planners to
www.goldenpaws.com
www.goldenpaws.com
easily list and organize all of
www.groomadog.com
your shopping. Project and tally
www.myfiaa.com
the costs for your career plan,
www.justfourpawsacademy.com
www.merryfieldschool.com
Note sources, quantities and
www.k9grooming.com
prices. Let it do the math!
www.nanhall.com
www.nationalcatgroomers.com
www.nysdg.comPrint convenient shopping lists.
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Check-off items as you shop!
www.oregonpetgroomingacademy.com
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planning your education or the
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PetGroomerCD
Call 815-469-2243commercial
location business,
www.scschoolofdoggrooming.com
these are the perfect planners.
www.tagsperfectjob.com
www.zoomzoomgroom.com
Courtesy of the professionals at
Grooming Business in a Box®.
PetGroomerCD
™
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PetGroomerCD
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PetGroomerCD™
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®
Courtesy of the professionals
at Grooming Business in a BoxPage
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eGroomer Journal July / September 2014
75
PetGroomer.com Publications
It’s commonly known that all brands of A-5 blades fit any brand of A-5 clippers. What is not commonly known relates to blade sizes. Most brands of A-5
blades have similar sizes, but how they perform varies. Manufacturers must use design differences in order to avoid patent and copyright
infringement. The most common difference between brands is the blade thickness. Similar manufacturer sizes may cut at different heights. You could
be in for a surprise if you change brands of the same size blade only to discover the cut is different! For your convenience Jeff at Northern Tails
Sharpening prepared the multiple manufacturer reference charts below for blades and snap-ons. Be sure to check Jeff’s web site at
www.northerntails.com for more helpful articles, videos and descriptions of his mail-in services. ♦
Clipper Blade Cutting Heights by Manufacturer
BLADE
BLADE
MASTER
SIZE
CUT
GRM.TOOLS
#
Inches
MM
LAUBE
WAHL
MM
MM
KLEAN
CUT
OSTER
ANDIS
MM
MM
MM
50
1/125
0.2
0.2
0.5
0.2
0.2
0.2
40
1/100
0.3
0.3
0.6
0.1
0.3
0.3
35
3/50
—
—
—
—
—
0.4
30
1/50
0.5
0.5
0.8
0.2
0.5
0.5
15
3/64
1.2
1.0
1.3
1.0
1.2
1.2
10
1/16
1.6
1.5
1.8
1.5/1.6
1.0
1.5
10W
3/32
2.4
—
—
—
—
—
9
5/64
2.0
2.0
2.0
1.5
1.0/2.0
2.0
8.5
7/64
2.8
2.8
—
—
2.0
2.8
7
1/8
3.2
3.2
4.0
3.2
3.0
3.2
5
1/4
6.4
6.4
6.0
6.3
6.0
6.3
4
3/8
9.5
9.6
8.0
9.5
9.0
9.5
3
1/2
12.7
13.0
10.0
12.0
13.0
12.0
5/8HT
5/8
15.9
16.0
—
—
—
16.0
3/4HT
3/4
—
—
—
—
—
19.0
T-84
3/16
—
—
—
—
—
2.4
Snap-On Comb Sizes & Cut Lengths by Manufacturer
COMB
LAUBE SELF ADJ
WAHL
SIZE
& X-LARGE
STAINLESS STEEL
#
Inches
MM
MDC ROMANI
MM
OSTER
MILLERS
UNIVERSAL
FORGE
MM
MM
1/16
1/16
1/8
1/8
1/4
1/2
1/4
3/4
9/16
3/4
3/4
0
7/8
5/8
5/8
1
5/8
1/2
1/2
1 1/4
1 1/2
1/2
1
5/8
1 1/4
1/2
7/16
2
3/8
3
5/16
4
3/16
3/8
5
1/16
1/8
A
1
3/4
B
1 1/4
C
1 1/2
D
1 3/4
E
2
S
1 5/8
eGroomer Journal www.egroomer.com Subscribe Free
3/8
1/2
3/8
3/8
5/16
5/16
1/4
3/16
1/16
Both charts provided courtesy of
7/8
Northern Tails Sharpening
251-232-5353
1
www.northerntailssharpening.com
© 2014 Find A Groomer Inc. All rights reserved