Installation Instructions

Installation Instructions
Supercharger System
Prelude ’97-’01
PART # 989-650
C.A.R.B E.O. D-344-8
440 Rutherford St. P.O. Box 847 Goleta, CA 93116
1-888-888-4079 • FAX 805-692-2523 • www.jacksonracing.com
Before starting, be sure the vehicle has 92 or
better octane fuel in it. If you are located in
high altitude areas you can run 90 octane. But,
do not try and run the vehicle at full throttle
with a supercharger unless the fuel tank is
filled with good fuel. Failure to heed this warning can result in severe engine damage.
If in doubt, CALL 1-888-888-4079! It is also
suggested that as you proceed through the
installation you read a few steps ahead so that
you are sure to catch all notes and hints.
WARNING: Once the installation is complete,
CHECK AND RECHECK ALL fuel system connections for possible leaks before operating
the vehicle.
Special Note: If you do not have a shop manual, buy one now! It is good to have for any
repairs now and in the future.
During this installation process, you will reuse
some parts or hardware and not reinstall others. It is recommended that you make space
for those that you will reuse and a separate
space for those you will not reinstall. In addition, you should save the parts that will not get
reused in case you ever have reason to
remove the supercharger.
Tools Needed: 8, 10,12, 14, 17mm sockets
and wrenches, 5 & 6mm Allen wrenches,
Phillips and straight blade screwdrivers, a drill
motor and a 5/8 drill or UNI-Bit, or rat tail file to
create a 5/8” hole in the plastic air box for the
valve cover vent hose. Most of these tools are
available at your local hardware or auto parts
store. A 10 and 12mm wobble socket and wire
crimping pliers would be helpful.
If the vehicle has over 15,000 miles on the fuel
filter, a new fuel filter will be required. A new
fuel filter should be available at your local
Honda dealer. Always use genuine Honda
parts whenever possible. This is also a good
time to change your oil and filter. It is a good
idea to start draining the oil, oil filter, and
coolant first thing. This will allow for all fluids to
stop dripping before you start working on the
car.
Jackson Racing Supercharger Systems are
designed to be installed by anyone with good
mechanical sense and the proper tools. Use
your best discretion.
IF YOU ARE NOT A COMPETENT MECHANIC, DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS INSTALLATION!
READ THESE INSTRUCTIONS THOROUGHLY! Follow the instructions STEP-BYSTEP, and your installation will be trouble free.
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Supercharger Installation Instructions
INSTALLATION
holding a shop towel over the top of the radiator and air blowing device. This will purge the
majority of coolant from the block and keep
you from getting dripped on.
1. Very Important! Remove the negative battery cable. If you have a coded alarm on your
radio, retrieve the code before removing the
negative cable. Removing the negative cable
shuts down the entire electrical system and is
the safest way to work on your vehicle. But,
you will lose all of your preset radio stations
and alarm codes. There is one other option. It
is not suggested by Jackson Racing but it will
keep all your radio codes and alarm codes. If
you open the “underhood” fuse box on the
passenger side of the inner fender you will find
two main wires entering the fuse box. Each of
the two wires is held in place with a Phillips
head screw. One of the wires is connected
directly to the battery. The other wire is the
main supply wire to the alternator. It is this wire
that you will be working near. It is usually the
wire nearest the engine and furthest from the
fender. For safety, Jackson Racing has you
remove the entire ground system so that the
entire car has no power. But, by removing the
Phillips screw and the main power wire to the
alternator you can save your radio codes and
still be safe from electrical shock or sparks
from the top alternator power lead. The danger
to using this system is that the fuel pump system still has power. It could be turned on inadvertently causing a fire and bodily harm. If you
choose to use the power lead removal method
instead of the shutdown of the entire system
as Jackson Racing recommends, you do so at
your own risk.
4. Remove the clamp that holds the valve
cover vent pipe assembly to the large diameter intake hose. Remove the large diameter
rubber hose between the air box and the throttle body at this time.
5. Remove the air box cover from the air box.
You will be drilling or filing a new 5/8” hole into
the side of the air box. You will be installing a
rubber grommet into this hole for the new
valve cover vent hose. On the edge of the airbox lid that faces the distributor/battery, mark
a spot in the side that will not interfere with the
battery and drill or file a 5/8” hole at this junction and install one of the grommets and the
3/8” x 90-degree fitting into the newly drilled
hole. This will be connected to the vent fitting
on the valve cover via a 3/8” x 30” hose. Clean
out any excess plastic left from the drilling.
Illustration 1
6. Remove the other end of the vent pipe
assembly by disconnecting it from the top of
the valve cover. The other two lines connected
to the assembly are water hoses. Leave these
attached until a later step.
7. Disconnect the throttle cable by loosening
the 12mm headed nuts holding it to the throttle cable bracket. Pull the throttle cable out of
the bracket and remove it from the lever on the
throttle body. Pull the throttle cable aside and
lay it out of the way. Remove the throttle cable
stabilizer bracket from the firewall.
2. Put your car on jack stands. NEVER WORK
UNDER A CAR NOT SUPPORTED BY JACKSTANDS OR RAMPS. If possible, use a vehicle lift/hoist.
8. Disconnect the power brake hose from the
back of the intake manifold.
3. Drain the cooling system, as you will be
replacing some hoses. Note: When draining
the coolant, carefully blow compressed air, (if
available) through the top of the radiator while
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9. Disconnect the small vacuum hose on the
back of the plenum on the drivers’ side. It is
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Supercharger Installation Instructions
the vacuum source for the variable intake butterflies inside the intake manifold. The variable
intake system will not be used with the supercharger and it will be removed later.
13. Remove the hose from the PCV valve in
the valve cover and the intake manifold.
14. On ATTS (SH models) there is a small “U”
shaped hose near the IAC valve. Disconnect it
from the bracket. This hose is only used as a
vent for the ATTS gearbox. It does not carry
any vacuum.
15. Unbolt the small ground wire on the drivers’ side of the timing cover. Reattach it to its
origination point on the drivers’ side shock
tower. This small ground wire will no longer be
used. The larger ground wire will be used.
Vent fitting
16. Locate the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve that
is mounted directly below the throttle cable
bracket. This valve is bolted to the front of the
intake manifold and has two coolant hoses
and a wire harness connected to it. One of the
hoses connects to the metal pipe assembly.
That metal pipe assembly has a hose on the
other end that connects to the Fast Idle Valve
on the bottom of the throttle body. Remove
these hoses from the throttle body and (IAC)
valve. The other coolant hose connects to the
thermostat housing. Remove the hose from
the IAC valve that comes from the thermostat
housing, leave this hose attached at the thermostat. Remove the vent hose at the valve
cover and remove the hose/pipe assembly
from the car. It will not be reused. Unplug the
wire
harness
with
wire
colors
YELLOW/BLACK and BLACK/BLUE. Remove
the two 12mm headed IAC valve bolts and
save them for reinstallation later.
Illustration 1
10. Remove the small vacuum hose at the
front of the intake plenum that leads to the
metal pipe on the drivers shock tower. This is
the vacuum source for the EGR (exhaust gas
recirculation) valve. It is usually numbered
#24. This vacuum supply hose and the #16
switched vacuum source from the EGR solenoid valve will be removed along with the
metal pipe assembly that they are connected
to. Remove the 10mm headed bolt that holds
the metal pipe assembly to the shock tower
and remove the assembly. This bracket would
interfere with the supercharger drive system
and will not be reused.
11. On the drivers’ side shock tower is an Antilock Brake System (ABS) pipe retainer bracket. Pop the plastic retainers loose and remove
the bracket. This will allow the metal pipes to
be slightly reformed to allow clearance for the
supercharger drive belt system later in the
installation.
17. Remove the remaining hose from the Fast
Idle Valve on the bottom of the throttle body.
The other end of this hose connects to the
back of the thermostat housing near the cylinder head. NOTE: The IAC valve and the Fast
Idle Valve use coolant in the system to help
control idle speed during warm-up and idle
load conditions. Positive pressure coolant is
12. Remove the Power Steering hose retainer
on the backside of the valve cover. It will not
be reused.
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Supercharger Installation Instructions
routed from the cylinder head at the #4 cylinder, after it has been circulated through the
entire block and head, to the front of the Fast
Idle Valve mounted at the base of the throttle
body. From the Fast Idle Valve the operating
temperature coolant is routed up through the
metal pipe assembly and down into the inlet of
the IAC valve. The coolant flows through the
IAC valve and back to the low pressure side
(suction) of the thermostat housing. This
design helps to keep proper coolant flow
through these two very important valves
regardless of whether or not the thermostat is
open.
hose that connects the air box to the throttle
body. This hose opens and closes a set of
intake butterflies in the inner fender. If you are
using the Jackson Racing Charge Air
Induction this hose will not be reused.
22. Remove the bolts and nuts holding the
throttle body to the intake manifold. Remove
clamp from bracket holding wire harness in
place on the bottom of the throttle body.
Remove throttle body.
23. Remove the plastic cover from the center
of the fuel injection rail. You will need to
remove the plastic EGR supply pipe from the
plastic cover first. Open up the cover by prying
the plastic retainer clips out and opening up
the cover like a clamshell. This cover will not
be reused. The plastic pipe will be reused. You
will be using plastic tie wraps to secure it to
the previous cover mounts.
18. On the top of the throttle body is a rubber
hose that connects to a Purge Control
Solenoid Valve (Purge Valve). Disconnect this
hose from the throttle body.
19. Also on top of the throttle body is an electrical plug. It is plugged into the Manifold
Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor. Unplug the
MAP sensor. It has wire colors of
YELLOW/RED,
GREEN/WHITE,
and
RED/GREEN. Remove the two screws that
hold the MAP sensor to the throttle body.
Remove the MAP sensor. Install the new MAP
sensor relocation plate in place of the MAP
sensor using the old O-ring still in the throttle
body and the new screws provided. Mount the
MAP sensor to the bottom of the relocation
plate with the “O” ring provided and original
bolts.
24. Remove the plastic cover from the wiring
harness where it crosses over the valve cover.
This area will be shared with the power steering hose later. This cover will not be re-used.
25. At this point you should be able to remove
the two nuts and three bolts that hold the
plenum to the lower intake manifold. Lift the
now exposed multiple butterfly, variable intake
system from the car. Unplug the vacuum line
from the switching valve under the variable
intake system and disconnect the vacuum line
from the manifold that goes to the fuel pressure regulator. The vacuum line for the switching valve will not be reused. But, the switching
valve must remain plugged in, as the computer will release a malfunction code if it is disconnected. Once the plenum is removed you
will need to remove the two studs left in the
lower manifold.
20. On the side of the throttle body is a
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). Unplug and
label this sensor plug. The colors are
Green/black, Red/black, and Yellow/blue.
21. Directly behind the throttle body are two
smaller hoses. One is the vacuum supply for
the cruise control and the other is the vacuum
supply for the butterflies in the inner fender.
Disconnect them from the plenum. Find the
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26. Remove the bracket on the firewall that
holds the large metal fuel tank vapor pipe
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Supercharger Installation Instructions
(where applicable). It is attached to the firewall
with one 10mm headed nut. Removal of this
bracket will provide clearance between the
supercharger and this pipe. Illustration 2
some disassembly. We make this suggestion
based on the fact that we have seen experienced mechanics make this mistake.
Illustration 3
New Fuel Line position
Remove bracket
Illustration 2
Illustration 3
27. Remove the gas cap and retighten to
relieve any residual pressure before moving to
the next section.
30. Special Note: Install the thicker new washer on the BOTTOM of the banjo fitting and the
thin new one on the top of the banjo fitting.
The thick washer on the bottom will allow
more clearance between the fitting and the
fuel rail. You will find these washers in the box
with the EMS unit. NOTE: Always check for
fuel leaks after having disconnected any fuel
system.
WARNING! Do not smoke during these procedures!
28. From the drivers’ side of the manifold,
CAREFULLY, disconnect the high-pressure
fuel supply hose from the fuel rail. This hose
may still be under high pressure.
31. With the plenum removed, replace the
stock fuel line that is connected at the base of
the firewall with a new 5/16” x 20” line supplied
with the kit. Secure it with one of the new
clamps supplied. Route it up to the area
between the firewall and the drivers’ side
shock tower. There is a pre-threaded hole in
the area that the Jackson Racing AFPR
(air/fuel pressure regulator) will be bolted to.
Mount the AFPR to this threaded mounting
point with the 10mm headed
bolt supplied. Install the hose from the base of
29. Rotate the fuel line 180 degrees so that it
comes from the cylinder head side of the fuel
rail instead of the firewall side of the fuel rail.
Route the fuel line so it goes around the power
steering hose. This will allow the fuel hose to
not be pinched and clearance for the new
Jackson Racing Intake plenum. Take extra
time in this area to be sure this higher pressure fuel line has soft bends and no kinks.
Once the installation is complete it will be
almost impossible to reroute this hose without
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Supercharger Installation Instructions
the firewall to the CENTER or “OUT” fitting of
the AFPR. Clamp it with the new clamp provided in the kit. You may want to “twist” the
AFPR/Mount after you have installed the
mounting bolt so that the hoses lay in a natural position without either the AFPR or the
hoses rubbing the chassis. Illustration 4
and suffer severe engine damage. Connect
the remaining hose from the “OUT” fitting on
the oil filter adapter to the “IN” fitting in the
cover plate.
Illustration 5
Illustration 5
34. On the drivers’ side, loosen the power
steering belt and remove it. You will be reusing
the power steering belt later in the installation.
Illustration 4
35. Remove the high-pressure power steering
hose from the pump by removing the two
10mm headed bolts. Save these bolts, as you
will be reusing them later. You will want to
clamp off the soft rubber supply hose from the
power steering pump reservoir to the pump
using a “Vise Grip” type plier or a clamp. This
will keep any power steering fluid from leaking
out while working on the power steering pump
and hose assembly. Wrap the end of the
power steering hose with a soft cloth so as to
protect the hose and “O” ring and the car in
case it falls against the vehicle.
32. Install a new 5/16” x 20” fuel line from the
stock fuel regulator to the Jackson Racing
AFPR. The “IN” fitting is the one on the outside. Clamp all lines with the clamps provided.
33. On ATTS (SH) equipped cars, you will
have to relocate the oil filter to the passenger
front corner of the car. This will allow for the oil
filter to be replaced. The Jackson Racing
Intake Plenum will use up the space where the
oil filter is currently located. Install the oil filter
cover plate adapter in place of the original oil
filter. Mount the oil filter relocation bracket to
the area directly below the battery box (See
Illustration). Mount the oil filter adapter to the
mount. Route the oil lines around the rear of
the engine, over the top of the transmission,
from the cover plate to the new oil filter mount.
Be sure to route the “IN” hose from the
adapter to the “OUT” fitting in the cover plate.
Otherwise your car will have no oil pressure
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36. Remove the power steering pump from its
bracket. Remove the two10mm headed bolts
that hold the ground wire and heat shield to
the bracket. Remove the original factory
bracket.
37. Loosen the alternator adjuster at the front
of the alternator. Loosen the upper pivot and
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Supercharger Installation Instructions
Adapter (051-614)
the lower pinch bolt and remove the long alternator/air-conditioning belt. It will not be
reused. Remove the alternator from its bracket and remove the bracket mounting bolts.
Install the Jackson Racing Alternator Spacer
(051-611) between the stock alternator mounting bracket and the engine block. This spacer
should have the lower support bracket already
mounted to it. This lower support bracket fits
between the engine block and dipstick tube.
The dipstick tube may need to be moved
slightly to accomplish this. Once the alternator spacer is bolted into place you will need to
loosen the bolt slightly that secures the lower
support bracket. The lower support bracket
needs to be able to pivot when installing the
belt drive bracket. Illustration 6
Belt Drive Bracket
(051-613)
Lower Support Bolt
Illustration 7
to the alternator spacer. Mount the drive
bracket to the Jackson Racing Power Steering
mount with the “Power Steering to Belt Drive”
adapter bracket (051-614). It is a small bracket with four holes in it. Install the four 8 x 1.25
x 25 flanged bolt into this bracket. Install an 8
x 1.25 x 20mm flanged bolt through the belt
drive bracket and into the lower support bracket on the alternator spacer. Do not tighten any
of these bolts at this time.
Belt Drive Bracket
(051-613)
40. It is time to install the Jackson Racing
Intake Manifold. Install a new gasket between
the stock intake manifold and the Jackson
Alternator Spacer
(051-611)
Illustration 6
Lower Support Bracket
(051-612)
38. On the left side motor mount there is an
extra long, pointed stud sticking up into the
work area. Remove the stud and replace it
with the new 12mm x 1.25 x 30mm bolt supplied.
39. You can now install the belt drive bracket
(051-613) onto the side of the engine.
Illustration 7. You will need to leave the lower
idler pulley OFF the bracket at this time. This
will allow room for you to install an 8 x 1.25 x
20mm bolt through the belt drive bracket into
the support bracket (051-612) that is mounted
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Illustration 10
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Supercharger Installation Instructions
Racing Intake Manifold. Install the new intake
manifold using two new 8 x 1.25 x 40mm
AHCS, three new 8 x 1.25 x 40 flanged bolts
through the new intake into the original intake
manifold. Apply a small amount of Loctite
thread adhesive to the bolts before installing.
Torque the 8mm bolts to 16 ft lbs. Illustration
10
straight and true. Torque all 8mm bolts to 16
ft lbs. and all 6mm bolts to 9 ft lbs. Apply a
small amount of loctite on all bolts before
installation.
44. Re-install alternator into its bracket and
leave the tensioner loose. Install the new
Jackson Racing power steering bracket (051615). Reinstall the heatshield and ground
strap on the new bracket.
41. It is at this time that you can see the close
proximity of the bypass valve and the metal
Fuel Vapor pipe. Check for proper clearance
between the vapor pipe and the bypass valve.
Illustration 11
45. Re-install the power steering pump and
hand tighten bolts. Refer to illustration #9 if
you need refreshing as to how the parts go
together. Route the power steering hose over
the valve cover and locate it in the slot that the
wiring harness uses.
Illustration 8
Bypass Valve
Illustration 11
Power Steering Hose
42. Install the jackshaft assembly to the intake
manifold at this time using the four 8 x 1.25 x
25mm flanged bolts provided while inserting
the nose of the jackshaft assembly through
the belt drive bracket on the drivers’ side of the
engine. Install the three 6mm x 1.0 x 20mm
AHCS through the belt drive bracket and into
the jackshaft assembly. Apply a small amount
of Loctite to all bolts before installation.
Illustration 8
46. On the backside of the power steering
pump, remove the lower right hand side power
steering cover bolt and install a spacer, support bracket and 8 x 60mm bolt into the power
steering pump. Install the new Jackson
Racing Power Steering Hose Adapter into the
power steering pump. Make sure the O ring is
on the casting. Locate it into the power steering pump with 6 x 25 and a 6 x 40mm bolts.
Finalize the installation by installing an 8 x
43. You can now torque all of the belt drive
and jackshaft assembly mounting bolts.
Torque the bolt from the alternator spacer to
the support bracket last. If this bolt is tightened before all the others, it is possible to
bend the bracket and the belt will not run
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Supercharger Installation Instructions
16mm bolt through the upper hole in the support bracket and into the Jackson Racing
Power Steering Hose Adapter. Illustration 9
have to adjust these brake lines so that the
belt doesn’t come in contact with the
brake lines. Simply spread the brake
lines out in a flat pattern. Illustration 13
47. Install the power steering hose into the
new location at the end of the Jackson Racing
Power Steering Hose Adapter using the original bolts. Illustration 9
Grooved Idler
Power Steering
Hose Adapter
(051-623)
Spacer (051-767)
P/S Support Bracket
(051-766)
Illustration 9
48. Install the last idler on the lower part of the
belt drive bracket after the lower support bolt
has been torqued.
Illustration 12
SPECIAL NOTE: Display engine shown
without air conditioning.
49. Install the new 6PK1930 drive belt around
the crankshaft, up over the idler you just
installed. Route it up to the jackshaft drive pulley and bring it back over the top of the
grooved idler pulley next to the jackshaft drive
pulley. Route it down to the next idler and up
and over the alternator. From there it travels to
the Air Conditioning compressor and back to
the crankshaft. Illustration 12. Tension this belt
using the standard alternator adjustment
process as outlined in the factory service manual. This is a very long belt so it will stretch in
the first 15 minutes of operation and need to
be readjusted. But it will soon take a normal
set and only require adjustment as a normal
Prelude belt would. Pay very close attention to
the area where the belt passes the ABS lines
on the drivers’ side shock tower. You may
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ABS Lines
Illustration 13
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Supercharger Installation Instructions
50. Reinstall the remaining power steering belt
and readjust the belt tension.
51. Reinstall the EGR plastic pipe across the
top of the fuel rail. Attach it to the two metal
brackets that the plastic wiring cover was
attached to using plastic ties provided in the
kit.
valve at this time.
57. Thread the short supercharger drive belt
over the supercharger drive pulley, under the
idler pulley, and around the jackshaft drive pulley.
Pivot Adjuster Nut
52. Route a 22” long vacuum hose from the
plastic EGR pipe to the EGR control valve on
the drivers fender. This EGR control valve has
two fittings. The upper of the two fittings is the
“out” fitting where the EGR signal hose should
be connected. Connect your vacuum hose to
this upper fitting now. Route your vacuum
hose from the plastic pipe and go under the
jackshaft casting and the ABS metal lines.
This will provide protection from the belt drive
for the vacuum hose.
Upper Belt Tensioner
(051-609)
53. Route another 30” long vacuum hose from
the lower of the two EGR control valve fittings
in the same direction as the previous EGR
vacuum hose. This will get connected later to
the Supercharger Adapter plate.
Illustration 14
58. Thread the 6 x 70mm tensioner bolt from
the jackshaft adjuster pivot to the pivot
adjuster nut and thread it until you have rotated the adjuster plate to achieve 35 lbs. of belt
tension. Lock the two 8mm cover bolts and the
6mm jam nut tight. Keep in mind that this short
belt does not need a large amount of tension.
Relate it to a rubber band. A long rubber band
has a lot of stretch to it while a short, fat rubber band has little stretch to it. The same
applies to the supercharger belts.
NOTE: Because this short belt has very little
time to cool it will require replacement every
10,000 miles or less. This belt is reasonably
priced and takes little time to replace. That is
why we supply TWO of them with each kit.
Check it often. If the belt breaks your car will
continue to run without any harm. Although, it
will not have any boost. Your main drive belt
should last as long as your stock belt, approximately 60,000 miles.
54. Install the short, 5PK525, supercharger
drive belt over the nose of the supercharger
before installing the supercharger onto the
intake plenum.
55. Set the new plenum intake gasket onto the
plenum. Lube the bypass valve hose before
installing the Supercharger/ Adapter plate. Set
the Supercharger/ Adapter plate onto the
plenum. Install the six 8 x 1.25 x 25mm
flanged bolts into the cover and finalize the
installation by installing the single 6 x 20mm
AHCS in the area near the nose of the supercharger. Apply a small amount of Loctite to all
bolts before installation. Torque all 8mm bolts
to 16 ft lbs. and the single 6mm bolt to 9 ft lbs.
56. Tighten the hose clamps on the bypass
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Jackshaft Adjuster Pivot
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Supercharger Installation Instructions
65. Mount the IAC adapter bracket to the front
of the Supercharger Adapter plate using the
two 8 x 1. 25 x 25mm bolts provided. You may
need to remove and re-install the lower 10
headed bolt to get the IAC mouting bolt in on
the passenger side of the bracket.
59. Reconnect the vacuum hose from the
stock fuel pressure regulator to the small vacuum fitting on the front of the Supercharger
Adapter plate.
60. Route the previously installed EGR vacuum supply hose to one of the other fittings
near the hose of the supercharger.
66. Route a 3/8”x 6” vacuum hose from the fitting closest to the supercharger on the bottom
of the Throttle Body Inlet Casting to the lower
fitting in the IAC adapter bracket.
61. Route a 5/32” X 22” vacuum hose from
the small fitting near the nose of the supercharger to the Jackson Racing AFPR mounted
between the shock tower and the firewall.
67. Route another 3/8”x 4” hose from the
remaining fitting on the bottom of the Throttle
Body Inlet Casting to a 3/8” “T”. Route another 3/8”x 4” hose from the “T” to the upper fitting on the IAC adapter bracket.
62. Route the vacuum hose from the Bypass
Valve to the top of the throttle body casting.
68. Route a final 3/8”x 16” vacuum hose from
the PCV valve on the drivers’ side of the valve
cover, between the IAC adapter bracket and
the supercharger, and connect it to the vacant
fitting on the 3/8” “T”. Finalize the hose routing
by placing a “P” clamp around the PCV hose
and locate it to the top of the valve cover with
a 6mm bolt in a pre-threaded hole in the valve
cover.
69. Reconnect the cruise control vacuum hose
to the fitting on the top of the Throttle Body
Inlet Casting.
70. From inside the passenger compartment
you will mount the Prelude Engine
Management System(EMS).
63. Find the #8 vacuum hose that was routed
to the intake control solenoid check vanve and
remove. Connect a 5/32” X 28” vacuum hose
to the Intake Control Solenoid check valve
route it across the back of the supercharger
and connect it up to one of the remaining small
vacuum fittings near the nose of the supercharger.
EMS Installation Instructions:
These instructions are specific to the ‘97/‘01
Honda Prelude applications. It is highly recommended that the wire connections be made
by soldering the wires and covering with heat
shrink tubing. We supply the EMS with butt
connectors with heat shrink wrapping as some
people don’t have access to a soldering gun.
Once butt connectors are crimped, use a
64. Mount the IAC valve to the front of the IAC
adapter bracket using the original bolts.
Reconnect the hose from the back of the thermostat to the outlet of the IAC valve.
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Supercharger Installation Instructions
match or heat gun to shrink tubing.
77. Route the EMS wires under the carpet
toward the ECU module assembly.
71. Find a suitable location to mount the EMS
unit and control knob. We recommend mounting it under the passenger seat.
78. Using the attached wiring diagrams, route
and attach all wires including a good chassis
ground as described below.
72. Secure the remote knob in place after routing the wires behind the dashboard. Most
mounting situations will allow you to use the
Velcro provided with the product. There are
mounting holes and 3/16” screws on either
side of the knob if the Velcro can not be used.
We recommend mounting it to the side of the
glove box. Illustration 15
79. Connect the BLACK wire of the EMS unit
to one of the mounting bolts for the ECU. The
BLACK wire provides the power ground for the
EMS unit.
80. You will be using a T-tap to connect the
YELLOW/BLACK wire from the EMS to the
“A24” wire of the ECU. Illustration 16. It is the
power source for the EMS. You will not be cutting this wire, only tapping into it.
The following steps refer to the long wire set
on the EMS (Engine Manage -ment System)
unit:
73. Remove the passenger seat from the vehicle. The EMS will be attached to the floor
below the seat area using supplied sheet
metal screws.
81. On the ECU “A” connector cut the “A20”
YELLOW/GREEN wire approximately 1” from
the connector. Connect the side leading to the
COMPUTER to the YELLOW wire on the EMS
unit. Connect the side leading to the ENGINE
to the YELLOW/GREEN wire on the EMS unit.
74. Remove the passenger side threshold and
kick panel and peel back the carpet to expose
the factory ECU mounting bracket assembly
on the passenger floor.
75. Remove the four 10mm headed nuts that
Illustration 15
82. On the ECU “C” connector, T-tap into the
“C2” BLUE wire and connect the BLUE wire of
the EMS unit to this wire. You will not be cutting this wire, only tapping into it.
secure the module assembly to the chassis.
76. Prop up the module assembly by laying it
on top of the folded carpet to expose the connectors and wires of the ECU.
989-650
83. On the ECU “D” connector cut the “D3”
RED/GREEN wire approximately 1” from the
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Revised 05-02
Supercharger Installation Instructions
connector. Connect the side leading to the
COMPUTER to the RED/GREEN wire on the
EMS unit. Connect the side leading to the
ENGINE to the GREEN wire on the EMS unit.
86. Connect the BLUE, WHITE and BROWN
wires from the REMOTE KNOB to the corresponding colors on the short wire set on the
EMS unit.
NOTE: If your car is an SH model equipped
with ATTS (automatic torque transfer system)
you will be making a connection to these previous two wires. Cut the RED/GREEN wire at
the ATTS computer plug “20” location (see diagram). The ATTS ECU is located next to the
regular engine ECU. Route the 10” long
RED/GREEN wire supplied with the EMS from
the ATTS computer to the engine ECU.
Connect this piece of supplied wire to the
RED/GREEN wire coming out of the ATTS
ECU at #”20”. Now, connect the other end of
the 10” long, RED/GREEN wire, to the
RED/GREEN wire that comes out of the
engine ECU at “D3” and the,lastly, the
RED/GREEN wire of the EMS. Connect the
remaining half of the RED/GREEN wire that
leads away from the ATTS ECU to the
RED/GREEN wire of the engine ECU that
leads away from the engine ECU and, lastly,
the plain GREEN wire of the EMS unit. This
ensures that the ATTS unit receives the same
signal as the ECU. You may have to pull some
of the ATTS ECU RED/GREEN wire out of the
harness so that it will reach the stock ECU.
Illustration 16
87. To route the plastic vacuum pipe to the
engine compartment, you will need a long narrow rod or screwdriver shaft approximately
24+” long. In the engine compartment you will
find a 1” O.D. rubber grommet in the area
behind the cruise control and near the charcoal canister on the passenger side. Put a
small slice in the middle of the grommet with a
knife. From inside the engine compartment,
carefully push your long tool through the
grommet in a downward angle towards the
carpet. Have someone watch from the interior
so that you don’t drive the tool through any
vital parts other than insulation. Once through,
you can tape the plastic pipe to the tool and
carefully pull it back through the firewall. You
should end up with a good weather tight seal
and your plastic pipe tucked cleanly away
under the dash. Install a vacuum ‘T’ in the
vacuum/boost hose that was routed to the ICS
earlier. Connect the ‘T’ between the engine
and the ICS check valve. Install the plastic
vacuum pipe to the ‘T’ using the small rubber
84. On the ECU “D” connector cut the “D1”
RED/BLACK wire approximately 1” from the
connector. Connect the side leading to the
COMPUTER to the RED/BLACK wire on the
EMS unit. Connect the side leading to the
ENGINE to the RED wire on the EMS unit.
85. On the ECU “D” connector cut the “D8”
RED/YELLOW wire approximately 1” from the
connector. Connect the RED/YELLOW wires
of the EMS to these two loose wires. They do
not have a polarity. They can be connected to
either wire side.
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Supercharger Installation Instructions
elbow supplied with the system.
93. Reverse the removal processes. Check
for any fuel leaks at all fuel junctions after
installation is complete and starting the
engine.
88. Set EMS knob at “10 clicks” for 92-octane
fuel. After the fuel pump installation and completion of the throttle body and engine compartment installation, test drive at full throttle
and listen for detonation (pinging). Carefully
rotate the knob in a clockwise direction one
“click” at a time if you hear detonation.
Immediately let off of the throttle when you
hear the detonation or severe engine damage
will occur. If you continue to hear detonation,
turn the knob in a clockwise direction, twothree more “clicks” until all signs of detonation
are gone. This should leave your timing curve
at a safe level for driving in or out of boost. For
racing purposes, you can use 100+ octane
non-leaded race gas and turn the knob to a
much lower counterclockwise position for a
more aggressive timing curve under controlled
racing conditions.
94. Install the Throttle Body onto the Throttle
Body Inlet Casting at this time using the four 8
x 40mm bolts provided.
95. Route a new 5/16”x 12” silicone coolant
hose from the inlet of the IAC valve to the outlet of the Fast Idle Valve. Reuse original
clamps.
96. Reconnect the original coolant hose to the
inlet of the Fast Idle Valve from the back of the
cylinder head.
97. Connect the Purge Control Valve hose to
the top of the Throttle Body at this time.
Fuel Pump Installation:
98. Reconnect the MAP sensor and TPS sensor and IAC wiring by checking the color
codes.
89. Remove the upper seat back.
90. Remove the galvanized inspection cover
to expose the top of the fuel tank. There are 4
small screws holding the cover in place. One
bolt is not visable unless you pull the material
and foam of the bottom seat forward to expose
its position. Remove the two fuel lines and the
electrical plug. Use extreme caution when
removing the fuel lines as there may be residual fuel pressure in the lines. To disconnect,
squeeze the white clip pieces together while
simultaneously pulling off the black hose coupler.
99. Reinstall the throttle cable and check for
full throttle operation and that the throttle
returns to the idle stop.
100. Route a piece of 5/32” X 28” vacuum
hose from one of the remaining fittings to the
MAP sensor. Reinstall the power brake hose.
It connects to the large, 90 degree, brass fitting on the back of the intake manifold.
101. Reinstall the air box assembly now.
91. Remove the fuel pump assembly from the
tank.
102. Connect a 3/8” x 30” hose from the valve
cover vent to the fitting installed in the air box
earlier in the installation.
92. Transfer the parts from the old fuel pump
to the new Jackson Racing Fuel Pump and
reinstall the fuel pump assembly.
103. Install the flex hose from the air box to
the throttle body. Tighten the hose using the
new clamps provided with the kit. Never run a
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Revised 05-02
Supercharger Installation Instructions
supercharged car without an air filter. The
internal supercharger housing-to-rotor clearance is tighter than your piston clearance in
your engine. If dirt gets inside, it will ruin the
supercharger and void its warranty. Always
use good quality filters. We do not recommend
HKS Power Flow or Greddy air filters as their
foam pulls away from its seat and allows large
amounts of dirt into your engine and supercharger. Most other aftermarket filters have
shown to be reasonable in their filtering ability.
chamber temperature allowing better power
and less chance of detonation in hot climates.
Although the stock Honda exhaust system is
very good, a good header and cat-back system will help relieve any back pressure. The
easier the exhaust gets out of the engine, the
better the good air will get in. Keep in mind, in
a supercharged engine, as the air gets
through the engine better, the boost will actually go DOWN, but the power will go UP! So,
don’t be surprised if you start improving the
intake air and exhaust system and your boost
actually starts reading slightly lower than it did
when it was all stock. Conversely, if your catalytic converter is starting to deteriorate, you
will see higher boost than normal, but your
engine will perform poorly.
104. Refill the engine with oil and coolant.
105. Reattach the ground cable or the main
alternator power lead to the underhood fuse
box and reset any alarm or radio codes.
106. Start the engine and immediately check
for fuel leaks. Run the engine for 15 minutes.
Let the engine cool and then recheck the belt
tension.
Allow the engine to warm up for at least 3-5
miles before you start working the engine
hard; longer in extremely cold conditions as it
will take a substantial amount of time to get
the oil warmed completely to operating temperature. Running an engine without the oil
being up to operating temperature is very hard
on your engine. Install a good oil cooler to
keep your oil from getting too hot and from
breaking down prematurely. During our “Back
to Back” SCCA Endurance Championships,
we saw over 300°F of oil temperature in our
race cars with relatively close to stock
engines. It makes sense that with the additional power you are now generating from your
supercharger, installing an oil cooler kits will
help maintain long engine life and provide
additional power.
107. Recheck your fluid levels after you have
let the engine cool down.
TIPS:
Now that you have added substantial power to
your Honda, here are some tips for best performance and long life.
Keep your cooling system in good shape.
Never run more than 50% anti-freeze/coolant
to water ratio in the engine, if possible. Water
cools better than anti-freeze/coolant but does
not have the high resistance to boiling or ability to resist freezing. So you must keep SOME
antifreeze coolant in the engine, but try to run
as little as possible. ‘Water Wetter’ as a supplement in the cooling system works well as a
stabilizer/conditioner (Part #220-116).
If your car has 70,000 miles or 7 years on it,
you might want to think about replacing your
old radiator with a new one from Honda. We
have found that the calcium deposit (from hard
water) that collects on the internal cooling
tubes of old radiators will actually insulate the
hot coolant from the outside air, even though
Order a set or our colder spark plugs for summer use. These will lower the combustion
989-650
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Revised 05-02
Supercharger Installation Instructions
the radiator still has good coolant flow. No
radiator repair shops that we have experience
with can remove this calcium deposit. More
importantly, your stock coolant temperature
gauge in your car will move to normal when
the coolant temperature reaches a temperature near 160°F, but your stock gauge will not
show any change or movement in temperature until the engine coolant temperature
reaches nearly 220°F. This means that you
could be trying to operate your engine in a
hostile environment that is 60°F hotter than is
ideal.
Do not run “Upgrade Chips” in your supercharged engine. Most “chips” have a more
aggressive ignition-timing curve. This is counter productive in supercharged engines. Do not
run an after market camshaft with a supercharger unless it has been specifically
designed for supercharging. Non-supercharged high performance camshafts depend
on having both intake and exhaust valves
open at the same time to help fill the cylinders.
This is also counter productive to superchargers. Anytime that both intake and exhaust
valves are open at the same time, the boost
goes out the exhaust port and will never be
seen again.
The stock ignition system is quite good. This is
not to say that some of the aftermarket systems might not work well. It is just an observation. We recommend using the stock system
until you encounter a problem igniting the mixture. Then try some of the ignitions that are
commercially available.
THANK YOU FOR CHOOSING
JACKSON RACING
989-650
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Revised 05-02
Supercharger Installation Instructions
989-650
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Revised 05-02
CONNECTOR PLUG DIAGRAMS
*All views shown from wire side of connector
ECM-A
Cut YLW/GRN wire of the ECU. Connect YLW wire from EMS to YLW/
GRN wire that goes to ECU. Connect YLW/GRN EMS wire to other side.
1 2 3 4
12
5 6 7
8 9
10
11
22
23
24
15 16 17 18 19 20
28 29
25 26 27
T-Tap YLW/BLK wire
from EMS here.
ECM-C
T-Tap BLUE wire from EMS to
original BLUE wire of ECU.
1 2 3 4
5 6 7
12 13 14 15 16 17 18
989-650
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8
10
20
22
29 30 31
Revised 05-02
CONNECTOR PLUG DIAGRAMS
*All views shown from wire side of connector
ECM-D
(To Engine)
Red/Green wire to engine
Cut Red/Green wire here
Reroute Red/Green ECU wire to EMS Green wire
Cut Red/Black ECU wire.
Connect ECU side of Red/Black
wire to EMS Red/Black wire.
Connect Sensor side of
Red/Black wire to EMS
Red wire.
1
TPS
6
7
•
Red/Green=ECU
2
8
IAT
14 15
3
4
5
9 10 11
12
MAP
Red/Green
EMS
Green
16
Cut Red/Yellow ECU wire.
Connect EMS Red/Yellow
wire to either side.
ATTS
1 2 3
5 6
8 9 10
12 13
15
17 18 19 20 21 22
10" Red/Green extension wire
Cut Red/Green ATTS wire
Connect Red/Green ATTS wire
into engine ECU Connector D#3
Cut Red/Green wire here
•
Reroute Red/Green ATTS wire to EMS Green wire
(Red/Green wire to ATTS/Engine Compartment)
989-650
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Revised 05-02