Bluewater Freedivers Western Australia

Bluewater Freedivers
Western Australia
BFWA
Beginners Manual
2014
Rev 1
Table of Contents
1.0
1.1
INTRODUCTION .................................................................................................................................................... 3
SAFETY ....................................................................................................................................................................... 3
2.0
FREEDIVING ......................................................................................................................................................... 4
3.0
SPEARFISHING ...................................................................................................................................................... 5
3.1
3.2
3.3
3.4
3.5
3.6
3.7
3.8
3.9
3.10
3.11
3.12
4.0
4.1
4.2
5.0
RULES AND REGULATIONS .............................................................................................................................................. 5
ETIQUETTE .................................................................................................................................................................. 5
HOW TO MEET BFWA MEMBERS .................................................................................................................................... 6
HOW TO GET A RIDE ..................................................................................................................................................... 6
EQUIPMENT ................................................................................................................................................................ 7
LOCAL DIVE SPOTS ...................................................................................................................................................... 13
ROCK HOPPING .......................................................................................................................................................... 18
DRIFT DIVING ............................................................................................................................................................ 18
DIVING FOR CRAYFISH ................................................................................................................................................. 19
DIVING FOR SPANISH MACKEREL ................................................................................................................................... 19
CLUB COMPETITIONS................................................................................................................................................... 21
BEGINNER TARGET FISH SPECIES ................................................................................................................................... 21
UNDERWATER PHOTOGRAPHY/CINEMATOGRAPHY .......................................................................................... 24
CAMERAS............................................................................................................................................................... 24
TIPS ........................................................................................................................................................................ 24
APPENDIX A ....................................................................................................................................................... 25
1.0
INTRODUCTION
Bluewater Freedivers Western Australia (BFWA) was founded by club president Barry Paxman. Members of
the BFWA club take pride in dive safety, spearfishing etiquette and promoting sustainability of spearfishing in
WA. Many members of BFWA are also members of the Australian Underwater Federation (AUF).
BFWA is a Perth based club with monthly meets. Beginners are encouraged to attend club meets to get to
know other members where they are likely to learn a great deal just by talking to some of our experienced
divers.
1.1
Safety
Dive safety is most important above all! BFWA encourages all divers to dive in pairs using the “one up one
down” philosophy. Please watch the “Spearsafe” DVD before you continue diving so that you can be aware of
the risks.
If planning day trips up north or down south it is recommended to rotate drivers and take breaks to avoid
becoming a statistic on the road.
2.0
FREEDIVING
Freediving is quite simply diving using breath hold only. BFWA members are recreational freedivers for
spearfishing and for underwater photography and cinematography. Like any form of diving it has inherent
risks and safety is a very important part of any form of freediving. It is best to talk to some of our more
experienced divers and members who have completed the APNEA Australia Stage A freediving course for any
tips on technique and safer freediving.
A competent freediver will have a very refined hydrodynamic technique and be focused on relaxing and
conserving energy.
Some tips for beginner freedivers:
-
Tuck your head in. Lifting your head up to stare at the bottom on the way down may help you spot
fish but it creates a huge amount of drag and ultimately consumes more energy and reduces your dive
time.
-
Dive straight down. Often divers spot a fish that is below and 5-10m in front of them and they dive
diagonally directly towards the fish. This will be a lot harder than streamlining and using gravity when
diving straight down.
-
RELAX. Try to relax, don’t forget fish can feel your anxiety and excitement.
-
No bicycles! Kick from the hips and avoid big bends in the knees. An improper kicking motion will look
a bit like riding a bicycle from the side on. Bicycling is great on land but inefficient in the water.
-
NO hyperventilating! Just begin every dive with a relaxed slow breath up and don’t force the exhale.
Hyperventilating is dangerous and should never be done before a dive.
-
Dive in pairs “one up one down”
-
Take time to relax between dives and you’ll have a much more comfortable day. Approximately 2:1
ratio (i.e. 2min rest at surface for 1min breath hold). The ratio shifts to 5:1 if you experience
contractions so try to avoid them and you’ll spend more time diving.
-
Take the snorkel out of your mouth just before you dive. This helps the “dive reflex” and also
increases your chance of survival if you have a blackout.
-
Above all, enjoy yourself. Freediving is about having fun and enjoying the ocean.
3.0
SPEARFISHING
3.1
Rules and regulations
All members of BFWA must comply with WA fishing rules and regulations as stated in Appendix A. A copy of
bag and size limits along with species identifications can be downloaded from the department of fisheries
website:
http://www.fish.wa.gov.au/Pages/Home.aspx
Please consider the following when planning a dive trip:
- Marine park locations
- Annual species closure rules
- Bag and boat limits
- Fish and crayfish size limits (Minimum and maximum)
- Licences (boat fishing licence is required to spear fish from a boat)
- Required safety equipment
3.2
Etiquette
Spearfishing etiquette is important not only for making sure everyone has a great time but also about
protecting the image of the sport and the BFWA club.
There are often misconceptions about divers stealing crays from pots and shooting everything in sight for the
fun of it. These attitudes are not supported by the club or spearfishing community. All divers shall adhere to
the rules governed by the department of fisheries. Fish should only be shot if there is intention to fully use the
fish for either food, bait or burly.
To help avoid awkward encounters with other fishermen:
- Do not dive near cray pots (unless it is late in the day when ample time has been given for the pots to
be pulled).
- Avoid diving near peoples crab nets.
- Avoid diving in areas where people are trying to fish from the rocks or their boat.
- Do not hang off the FADs (Fish Aggregation Device). Drift past it and let others (line fishermen and/or
divers) have a go at the area.
Dive buddy and boat etiquette:
- During long trips up north or down south, take turns driving the car to avoid fatigue and share the
load.
- Split the boat and car fuel bill evenly.
- Make a dive plan and make sure everyone on the trip is happy with the location and depth.
- Keep it tidy onboard. Try to avoid spilling burley and having gear dropped anywhere on deck. Treat
your friends boats as nicely as you would treat your mother. Also, not everyone likes their boat
covered in fish blood even if it is a stonking big mackerel.
- If meeting your dive buddy for a trip then make sure you are on time or slightly early. If it’s early in the
morning or late at night don’t wake their family or neighbours.
- If you are late then send a message to let them know.
- Don’t say you will go and then pull out at the last minute. If you absolutely can’t make it then try to
organise a replacement.
-
-
3.3
If you have little or no boating experience then it is important to let the skipper know and don’t be
offended if the skipper tells you what to do. It is their boat after all.
The crew takes turns pulling the anchor while the skipper drives the boat.
If you’re new to boats then let the skipper show you the correct method to tie off the anchor.
Avoid dropping your weightbelt on the floor. Fiberglass can chip and aluminium can dent.
Make sure your gear is neatly tucked away at all times. Clutter on a boat can be annoying for all and
dangerous.
If trying to signal you dive buddy or boatie then raise you gun vertically in the air. It makes it much
easier to be seen.
Boats need to be balanced so try to avoid standing on the same side as everyone else.
When getting bashed around on a boat in rough seas it is important not to fight the motions of the
boat it will only tire you out and possibly damage whatever you’re hanging on to. Handles are a guide
for balancing.
Help to unpack all the gear out of the boat and offer to help wash down and clean up. Some people
have their own routines but offering to help is the main thing.
Finally, everyone has a couple of rules specific to their boat so find out what they are and don’t break
them or your dive buddy might not be too impressed.
How to meet BFWA members
Each month a member of BFWA volunteers their house for the club meet and BBQ. This is the best way to
meet new divers and friends. There are always regular faces that are friendly to talk to and perhaps you might
pick up a few tips from. Be willing to introduce yourself to people and more importantly listen to people.
Giving off a good first impression of a friendly, keen and respectful diver might quickly land you a spot on
someone’s boat or a great dive tip. It is highly recommended for new members to attend as many club meets
as possible to get to know everyone and for the club to get to know you.
The forum is also a great place to socialise online if you’re not able to attend the club meets.
3.4
How to Get a Ride
Don’t have a boat? Or not sure where to go to catch what you’re after? The best way is to get out on the boat
of another club member. To do this you must be keen, willing to go the extra mile and be prepared for short
notice. Most dive trips only get finalised the night before so a phone call or txt message late in the afternoon
or night for a dive the next day is not uncommon. Above all be respectful of the other club member’s boat and
be willing to help however possible after all it is can be quite stressful taking a stranger out on your boat
because they are the skipper and responsible for your safety.
Don’t forget to keep an eye out for “Boat Seat and Crew Bookings” section on the forum! This is where club
members are often looking for extra divers to come out on their boat. If you need a ride or are looking for
someone to come out on your boat then post up a message and phone number for people to call.
3.5
Equipment
There is plenty of equipment available for spearfishing but this section will run through the basic gear required
for spearfishing. Try to resist buying fancy expensive gear until you’ve had a chance to talk or dive with some
of our more experienced club members.
The BFWA website has a few sections explaining the basic spearfishing equipment used by some of the club
members which is well worth a read!
http://www.bluewaterfreediversofwa.com/files/spear%20gear.htm
3.5.1
Spearguns
Probably the most debated item amongst spearo’s is the guns that they use. Many divers will swear by one
brand whilst other will swear AT that same brand!! What must be remembered though is that ultimately it’s
not the gun, but the skill of the diver that makes him successful.
The best all round gun would be a 1.3m railgun. A diver can shoot almost anything big or small with this. Most
divers will generally have either a 1.2, 1.3 or 1.4 in their arsenal of guns.
A good speargun needs to be “tuned” for the right amount of power for any given shaft/rubber/barrel combo.
Guns bought “off the shelf” are often not “tuned”, as seen in many magazine testing results and we
recommend talking to as many experienced divers as possible BEFORE buying a gun.
3.5.1.1 Spears
A good quality electroplated spring steel or 17-4ph stainless spear is an essential part of a speargun.
A good quality “hard” spear will flex very little compared to cheap soft spear, therefore more power can be
applied to the spear without “shaft whip” becoming a problem which can cause inaccuracy. Obviously more
power equals more range and greater hitting power.
Rob Allen and Freedivers make good 7mm and 7.5mm spears for Euro and railguns, while Riffe rule supreme
with fin tab type spears.
3.5.1.2 Spear heads
Spearheads are often a divers personal preference, there are four main types used.
Straight tip with single flopper:
This is the most common and simple spear tip used by divers. The spear tip is part of the shaft and is simply
sharpened to a pencil point or tri cut with a single flopper installed in the shaft.
Tri cut spear
Pencil point spear
This is a very robust and hassle free setup and will hold onto large fish easily. However the flopper must be
tuned to deploy effectively once shot.
An easy way to check this is to hold your spear vertical (tip down) and let the flopper flop out. Give the back
end of the spear a little bump with your hand and then hold the spear upright. If the flopper flicks out about ⅓
of the way out and then stops and stays out then your flopper is tuned correctly (the flopper should lock open
for the last ⅔ of movement). In fact you should be able to wave it around like a mad man and the flopper
should never bump close again. If your flopper swings freely open and shut then you will need to tune it which
can be a bit of an art in itself. The best way is to get in touch with someone from the club to show you the
technique.
Prangers:
A pranger is a multi prong spear head which is threaded onto the spear shaft. Prangers are great for kill shots
(i.e. “stoning” fish) and skinny “hard to hit” fish like King George Whiting and pike. If using prangers for large
fish then it is critical to hit the sweet spot and stop them in their tracks or the fish will take off and tear the
pranger out.
Pranger spearhead
Threaded straight tips:
Threaded straight tips are common on very cheap spears from brands like Undersea and have a double flopper
arrangement. Threaded straight tips must be screwed on tightly so they do not unscrew as the fish spirals on
the spear. Generally the floppers are much smaller on these tips so they tend not to hold fish as easily.
Threaded straight tip
Slip-tips:
You’re either a slip-tip man or you’re not. Some people swear by them and others won’t touch them. Slip-tips
are suppose to stop fish bending your spear by allowing the tip to separate but remain attached to the shaft by
flexible stainless steel cable.
Slip tip spearhead
3.5.1.3 Reels
Most people in the club tend to use reel guns for spearing because of the freedom they give the diver. A reel
gun is simply a speargun fitted with a reel used for storing extra spear line.
To use a reel on a speargun it depends on what the diver is doing, but in simple terms, when a spearfisher
shoots a fish and line is pulled from the reel on the gun, the diver must take control of the line in front of the
gun as soon as possible. All the while swimming forward leaving the gun and all of the slack line trailing behind
to avoid getting tangled in the gun line!
The drag setting on a speargun reel should not be too tight, it should allow line to be pulled from the spool in a
controlled manner. Should the diver wish to slow the rate the fish is taking line, then by putting a hand on the
spool the rate can be restricted.
Muzzle wrap is a problem that is found to happen with some types of muzzles due to the design where line can
tangle on discharging the spear. This may occur when tracking a fish on firing. If you do not feel that you have
time to or ability to untangle the problem, then you must let your gun be taken by the fish.
As a remedy for this problem, some divers wear a belt Reel that they can attach to the handle of their gun.
Another option is to still use the reel on the gun, by loosening the drag and pulling line from the spool while
swimming to the surface leaving the gun and fish on the bottom.
3.5.1.4 Float lines
Float lines consist of a float with a rope or “float line” attached which clips onto the gun handle. A float line
can be a bit restricting for cave diving and diving through ledges but it has added advantages for safety in dirty
water because your buddy always knows where you are on the bottom and where you will surface. Using a
float line can also mean you can drop your gun to the bottom for whatever reason (like diving on a cray hole)
without loosing track of it. A float line can also be used to store fish. The weight of the fish will be lifted by the
float but don’t leave them on your float too long or you might come back to half a fish!
It is advisable to avoid float lines in areas of high boat traffic. If a boat catches your float line it will rip the gun
from your hands and possibly break your fingers in the process.
3.5.2
Fins
These days there is a mind boggling array of fins for the diver to choose from. One thing is for certain, a
freediver benefits greatly from a long blade fin with a fully enclosed heel.
Long blades produce more thrust for less effort meaning longer bottom times and shorter recovery time
between dives. Closed heel (as opposed to open heal SCUBA style) footpockets give a more efficient transfer
of energy from the ankle and calf to the blade again resulting in more "bang for you buck".
BLADE LENGTH is critical to selecting the correct fin.
BLADES OF 80cm+ are more suited to freedivers or spearfishers who dive in a constricted area to great depths
(greater than 30m). These blades require a greater level of technique and concentrated effort to achieve a
fluid and efficient dynamic motion
BLADES LESS THAN 80cm are more suited to spearfishers that cover large areas and dive repeatedly to various
depths. These blades have a sharp, more precise reaction, and they are easier to control and manoeuvre.
BLADE STIFFNESS - possibly the most complicated part of the selection process as there are a number of
variables to consider. The objective should be to obtain the greatest possible performance whilst using
the least amount of energy; and to also make you, the diver, feel comfortable and safe using it. The softer the
blade the less energy required to work it so every diver should select the softest blade possible whilst taking
into account their diving style, and psychology.
For example:
A large bodied diver may not feel comfortable and safe using a softer blade because it takes a little longer to
achieve an acceptable level of momentum on ascent from a dive.
A diver with an aggressive diving style will likely lose patience with a softer blade.
A more technical style diver will achieve improved performance from softer blades.
Footpocket selection is even more important than correct blade selection. If your foot is uncomfortable, then
you will be disappointed no matter what you buy. Rule of thumb:
o Very wide foot = Picasso / Mat Mas Footpocket
o Wide/Medium width foot = Omer / Dessault Footpocket
o Medium Width foot = Esclapez Footpocket
o Medium to narrow Width foot = Spetton Footpocket
o Narrow Width foot = Beauchat Footpocket
As a recommendation when purchasing fins, it would advisable to give preference to a fin with a
removable footpocket. This is for two reasons; firstly it is simply a better financial strategy as any keen spearo
will almost certainly want to progress to using fibreglass or carbon fibre blades and this way one would only
need purchase blades rather than complete fins. Secondly, one would not have to go through the pain of
finding suitably comfortable footpockets
3.5.3
Wetsuits
These nothing that ruins a dive quite like being cold or getting chafe from a poorly fitted wetsuit.
Many people will buy a wetsuit purely on price but there are extra features available in some suits that make
a real difference to a diver's comfort and performance. When buying a wetsuit, keep the following in mind:
Neoprene thickness - 3mm ain't always 3mm. 5mm is sometimes actually 4mm. Some suits are measured
including the nylon layer so on a 3mm suit you actually get about 2.5mm of neoprene (almost 20%
less). Others quote the actual neoprene thickness so you get what you pay for. Thinner neoprene suits have
less body and can crush and stretch out of shape more easily and quickly.
Metallic lining is slippery, reduces the requirement for lube, and provides a heat retention barrier "BUT" it
increases the flow of water through the suit which reduces body heat and in some cases it dramatically stiffens
the neoprene which reduces comfort.
Open Cell interior with nylon exterior is purely raw neoprene without any treatment. The neoprene comes in
direct contact with the skin and literally clings to the body. Open cell requires lubrication to get into the suit
and care must be taken as sharp fingernails can tear the neoprene. Any inconvenience is by far outweighed by
the additional comfort and performance obtained from such suits. Tears are easily and permanently fixed with
a good quality neoprene adhesive.
Long Johns v's Pants. Many divers prefer pants because they are less buoyant and are "aqua grogan friendly"
as one diver has put it. If nature calls it is possible to drop your dacks and do your business in the water something not possible with long johns. Long Johns are preferred because they provide extra warmth but can
also be cut to just below the chest to provide the same benefits as pants.
Many BFWA divers have custom suits made by companies such as Seaquel, others use open cell suits from
popular brands like Spetton, OMER and Cressi. Expect to pay $400 to $500 for a good suit, with a bit of TLC it
will be worth every cent.
3.5.4
Mask
This is one of the most important items for ANYONE that enters the aquatic realm. Having an ill-fitting mask or
one that fogs up continuously can not only be very frustrating but dangerous as well. The ability to SEE under
water is what it’s all about.
There are many makes and models in the market. Forget about brand names and get the one that fits YOUR
FACE the best. Since everyone has different facial features, the only way to select a mask is to visit your local
dive store and try on as many as you can. The easiest way to test a mask is to put it on your face, ensuring it
fits snuggly and then gently inhaling through your nose. This should suck the mask to your face. Tilt your head
forward, looking towards the ground. The mask should still be stuck to your face. Should the seal not be good,
it will fall off your face. (NOTE: you do this WITH-OUT the mask strapped to your head!!) Make sure that the
nose piece of the mask is comfortable enough for you to hold, as when you descend, you'll need to equalize by
pinching your nose. Try it with gloves too. Stay clear of masks with purge valves on. They do work, but have a
rather short life span. They also tend to have smaller space for your fingers for equalizing.
Selecting a low volume mask is preferable for freediving because they require less air to equalize them on
decent. Air kept in the lungs is much better than loosing it through mask equalisation.
Once you've acquired your mask, you need to clean INSIDE of the lens, so as to prevent fogging up. Some
toothpaste smeared on the inside and rubbed around works great. This helps to polish off any invisible
coatings on the lens from the manufacturing process.
3.5.5
Snorkel
All you need is a simple J shaped snorkel. Once again, stay clear of snorkels with purge valves and anti-splash
contraptions. They also work, but add additional drag and the purge valves always BREAK when you least
expect it!
Avoid snorkels with splash protectors at the top they provide unnecessary breathing resistance to the diver
making it harder to relax before a dive. Most splash protectors can be removed by pulling them off.
For the average spearo, a medium bore snorkel with a comfortable mouthpiece is all that’s needed. Having a
mouth piece that’s uncomfortable or too hard, will cause your gums to pain or even start to bleed and possibly
also irritate your tongue causing swelling.
3.5.6
Weightbelt
A weight belt is needed to counter-act the buoyancy of your wetsuit. Since everyone has a different body
shape each ones weighting will be different. Depending on the depth of water that you’re diving in, a spearo
should always try to be positively buoyant until -10m. This is to ensure that he will float up to the surface
should he suffer from shallow water black-out. Care should be taken NOT TO OVERWEIGHT yourself, as this
might make you go down quicker, the extra time gained on the bottom is offset against the additional time it
takes to swim back up as well as the additional time it’ll take to recover. It’s much easier to swim down against
the buoyancy of your wetsuit, than to swim up, against gravity. Much safer as well. Remember, when you’re
laying on the surface, when you EXHALE, you must still be positively buoyant.
Most divers use a rubber weight belt with a quick release buckle. These can be worn on the hips for more
comfort and the stretch means it doesn’t loosen and turn whilst you’re diving, unlike the normal webbing
belts. This accounts for the compressing of your wetsuit as you go deeper. This way, your quick release buckle
will always be in the same position. When surfacing from a deep dive and you’re feeling out of breath, it is
advisable to open your buckle and hold the weight belt against your body with your hand whilst ascending
(don’t hold it out from you and ruin your streamlining). Should you black out, the belt will slip from your hand
and the weight belt will fall off, allowing your wetsuits buoyancy to take you to the surface.
Another handy hint is to buy TWO complete weight belts. This way, you’d be more inclined to dump your
weight belt should the need arise.
Weight harnesses can be a substitute for a belt if the diver suffers lower back pain. These move the weight up
to the shoulders and assist in duck diving. The down side is they can sometimes get snagged up in tight caves
and not all can be easily released.
3.5.7
Knives
Contrary to the diving movies, your knife isn’t going to be used to fend off aggressive sharks! A spearo’s knife
serves two basic functions, namely, to dispatch his catch as quickly, safely and humanely as possible and to cut
himself free from any line or rope he might get entangled in. A smallish knife with a strong sharp point is what
is required. Bulky knives are heavy and cumbersome and tend to hook onto kelp and your floatline and offers
more water resistance.
3.5.8
Gloves and Socks
Gloves are used to protect the hands from not only the cold, but from fish spines, corals and reefs. Most
gloves are 3mm thick, which provides ample warmth. However, most spearo’s prefer leather palmed gloves.
These gloves are much thinner on the inside of your hand, allowing your hand to be more sensitive. Very nice
on spearguns with sensitive triggers. For the spearo operating in warm tropical waters, normal cotton garden
gloves work great.
Most BFWA divers use cotton gloves with latex dipped palms and fingers. These gloves are as tough as brand
name gloves but approximately 25% the price.
Neoprene socks are available in 1, 2, 3 and 5mm thickness. Make sure that you fit your socks on when fitting
your fins in the dive shop. Socks have a very short lifespan. Replacing them once a year is normal, obviously
depending on how often you dive.
3.6
Local dive spots
For many the joy of finding new dive spots is a big part of the adventure of spearfishing. Exploring new areas
and going where you think most people tend to look over can often result in rewards of a new “secret” spot.
3.6.1
Carnac / Mewstone / Stragglers / Champion Reefs
This stretch of reef running from the northern tip of Garden Island to the east side of Rottnest is relatively
shallow (7-14m) and characterised by lots of caves and ledges. Being so close the area has been fished pretty
hard for many years but for the persistent diver there is plenty of tasty species to be found.
It often pays to look right up in the shallows as these are area often bypassed by line fisherman. Species that
are relatively common to the area include King George Whiting, Queen Snapper (blue morwong), harlequin,
small dhufish and Samson. Crayfish can also be counted on during the season.
Breaksea Cod
Harlequin
Dhufish
Occasional bonus species will appear as Greg Pickering found when he took the state record Baldchin at
Stragglers.
3.6.2
Five Fathom Bank
Five fathom runs from the south side of Rottnest all the way to Mandurah. Obviously a large area it comes out
of 20m on the western side to an average of 12m on top, although some sections do break and come within a
few metres of the surface. Inside the bank the dropoff is very pronounced and the depth is over 20m.
Five fathom certainly has “hotspots” that regularly hold good dhufish and other tasty species but there is
certainly large areas that look similar but have no fish.
Species encountered include Blue morwong, Samson, reasonable size dhufish and Blue groper. It is not
unusual to see decent Spanish mackerel and Yellowfin tuna toward the northern end during autumn.
Blue groper and Dhufish
Boarfish
Queen snapper
3.6.3
Good Dhufish hideout
Rottnest Island
Rottnest Island is 11 nautical miles off the Western Australian coast and is a well know destination for holiday.,
With all the excellent bays and reefs, Rottnest Island is an ideal spot for surfing, fishing, snorkeling,
spearfishing and scuba diving.
3.6.3.5 West End
The western most point of Rottnest Island is Cape Vlamingh also known as West End. This area is known for its
excellent fishing and scuba diving but is not for the faint hearted, as this area has no protection from the
elements. Large swell is not uncommon here and is very dangerous if you are unfamiliar with the
location. There are many large lumps in deeper water that can break unpredictably when a big swell rolls in.
Outside of the breakwater the ground slopes off quite rapidly, in about 20meters of water there are large
caverns and ledges that are often dived on by scuba divers and free divers such as myself. There is a great
abundance of fish life and rock lobster in these caves. Late summer through to autumn off the west end of
Rottnest island pelagic and more northern species of fish can be seen by divers, such as Spanish Mackerel,
Shark Mackerel, Wahoo and various types of tuna, divers have also encountered large Queensland Gropers
dwelling around these big caverns.
Yellowfin tuna and Spanish mackerel
Divers that have not dived the west end before should be warned that currents can be extremely strong and
divers can be carried away from the boat and may not be able to make it back.
3.6.3.6 Southern Side
Wilson bay is a well known rock lobster diving spot for lots of free divers I know, it is good for free diving
because of the shallow and the amount of good ground in this area. Just out side of this bay there is a good
surf break called radar reef and a side break mainly for body boarders known as Rotto box.
Western Rock Lobster
Further along the southern side in Strickland bay there is another surf break. Right next to the break is a great
place for a snorkel or to catch a feed of crays, there are heaps of good ledges and caves that house many small
reef fish. Strickland bay often has a pod of dolphins or the odd seal hanging around, always a pleasurable sight
to see.
Around from Strickland bay is Salmon bay and as you can imagine from the name at certain times of the year
large schools of salmon congregate around the reefs in this bay, usually it is in April but odd ones are quite
often seen all year round in the bays of Rottnest. This bay like most bays of Rottnest has a large number of
Rock lobster in it.
3.6.4
Direction Bank
Offshore Freediving and Spearfishing at Direction Bank is not for beginners as these waters generally exceed
depths of 25 metres. This bank of reef runs North and South of Rottnest Island approximately 15 to 17
nautical miles off shore. Whilst there are a few pinnacles along the reef, they are well spaced out.
Most dives on Direction Bank will encounter visibility where the bottom cannot be seen, but on the few days
where the visibility is really good it is a great diving experience.
These waters are home to many pelagic species, including Spanish Mackerel, Wahoo, Tuna, Samson fish and
Yellowtail Kingfish. The usual bottom species are there also, but searching holes and cave at these depths is
risky.
A diver spearfishing in these waters needs a reliable and competent dive partner to dive alongside them. The
risk of finding big sharks here is a reality and most species of sharks have been encountered.
Even given all of risks many people have taken magnificent fish from the depths at Direction Bank, some of
these include 30 kg Spanish Mackerel and 20 kg dhufish.
3.7
Rock hopping
Rock hopping is a term often used for diving “off the rocks” from the shore. Some good locations for rock
hopping around Perth include many of the man made sea walls around mariners along the metro coast.
Added care needs to be taken when diving in these areas as there can be lots of boat traffic and many line
fishers fishing off the rocks that will get very upset if you swim near the area they are fishing. It is often best to
dive the outside of the rock wall as these seem to be more productive than the inside.
It is preferable to use a smaller gun (<1.1m) for rock hopping to help get in amongst the small gaps and caves
in the rocks where leatherjackets and other tasty species might hide. Species you may encounter include:
- Six spine leatherjacket
- Horseshoe leatherjacket
- Bream
- Tailor
- Cuttlefish
- Rock flathead
- Cobbler
Crays are also a possibility at the right time of the year when the “whites” are running. They are often only
just sized and hiding in the most awkward of places right at the back of caves where they have plenty of room
to escape deep into the wall beyond the reach of any diver. However with practice and persistence it’s
possible to pull a few tasty legal crays out using a cray loop.
3.8
Drift diving
Drift diving is used when diving from a boat in water too deep to anchor or in strong currents. In some areas
diving from an anchored boat can be dangerous. Strong currents can make it difficult, sometimes impossible
to hold position against the current. In these situations it is common practice to have 1 diver driving the boat
and to drift along with the divers in the water and then take turns going boatie every 20min or so.
As the boatie it is VERY important to NEVER TAKE YOUR EYES OFF THE DIVERS IN THE WATER. With glare,
waves and chop it can only take a couple of seconds to lose sight of a diver in the water. Hi-vis floats and float
lines are recommended for this type of diving to allow the boatie to easily keep track of people in the water.
Also ensure everyone is comfortable driving the boat and they have a registered WA skippers ticket.
It is also recommended not to turn the engine off while drifting along. If the engine fails to start again then
you will quickly become separated from the divers.
Drift diving is the only method for diving offshore locations such as the FADs (Fish Aggregation Devices) and
can be very exciting with the prospect of encountering large pelagic species.
3.9
Diving for Crayfish
Cray diving can be just as fun and challenging as spearfishing. Perth metro crays are known as the western
rock lobster and there are lots of locations to hunt them along the perth coast. Before chasing crays ensure
that you have paid for a licence to fish for them and have read the rules carefully. WA fisheries inspectors are
very strict when it comes to fishing rules and regulations and it can reflect poorly on the club and diving
community if these rules are not adhered to.
http://www.fish.wa.gov.au/Fishing-and-Aquaculture/Recreational-Fishing/Pages/Recreational-FishingLicences.aspx
Chasing crays is not as simply as it sounds. The first big challenge is to find which ledges they are under. The
best way to do this is find some rugged looking ground and start checking every ledge you come across. When
you do locate a crayfish make sure you have a good breath up and have plenty of breath hold capacity to dive
on the ledge. (Note: pulling a cray out of a hole generally requires a lot more oxygen then to spear a fish at
the same depth) Dive down to the ledge with your cray loop in the closed position then carefully position the
closed loop behind the cray without touching any of the cray’s feelers. Open the loop and bring it forward
over the cray’s tail then quickly pull the loop closed and hold it closed. After surfacing with your potential
tasty dinner, check under the tail for eggs, tar spot (sperm packet) or hairs under the tail. If you find any of
these then the crayfish must be carefully returned to the water as per the WA fishing rules and regulations.
Once you’re back at the boat check to make sure it is of legal size and if so then clip the tail of the cray and
you’ll have your dinner.
An excellent article on crays has been written on the BFWA website:
http://www.bluewaterfreediversofwa.com/files/Divingandcatchingwesternrocklobster.htm
Always remember that no crayfish is worth risking a life over, even if you have a big cray by the horns you’re
loved ones will still prefer you instead.
3.10
Diving for Spanish Mackerel
Most members of the club have encountered Spanish mackerel and they are one of the most targeted pelagic
fish species for BFWA members. Not only do they taste great they store well in the freezer for future meals
and the oily fish frames make great burley.
3.10.1
Your dive and spearfishing gear
You can hunt Spanish Mackerel using 1.3 or longer spearguns, fitted with a reel and line or attached to a thin
floatline. Flexible spears such as 7mm high tensile spears are very commonly used for this purpose and cause
minimal damage to the flesh. Typically a 1.4 Railgun with a 7mm spear powered by one 18mm rubber can
shoot a mid-size Spanish Mackerel at a distance of 5metres.
When diving down on Spanish Mackerel you must be neutrally buoyant at approximately 10 metres, so you
may have to adjust your weight belt. Your dive gear should include long blade freediving fins and a sharp
easily accessible knife. A float for berley is handy to have attached to a line at the back of the boat.
3.10.2
Where to hunt Spanish Mackerel
Spanish Mackerel can be found from Albany northward along the WA coastline, generally from the beginning
of January through to August. Spanish Mackerel can be found along the outside of our coastal reefs and
further out around deep offshore lumps. It is best to find a location just seaward of our coastal reef line where
the reef drops away to sand on the most outside edge of the reef normally in 15 to 20 metres of water and
anchor your boat out on the sand. The best days for Spanish Mackerel are when the wind is between
southeast and Northeast (offshore) with a current running from the North or the south.
3.10.3
How to hunt Spanish Mackerel
When you have found an area where Spanish Mackerel could be, anchor up and put your burley float attached
to a line in the water behind the boat. When you enter the water, ensure that you expel all air from your
wetsuit and fins.
You will need burley at this point, so shooting Buffalo Bream or any other fish to cut up to create a burley
stream and oil slick will help. The noise of shooting the burley is also important in attracting Spanish Mackerel.
While cutting up burley, tapping the back of your knife on your spear can help attract fish too. The noise and
burley will also attract many other species and most likely some sharks.
Diving and spearfishing is a high risk activity especially with burley in the water, be sure that you have a buddy
in the water with you at all times. Always watch each other during diving and after surfacing.
Spanish Mackerel can appear out of nowhere, you need to smoothly dive (some people remove their snorkel
to eliminate air bubbling noises) and descend to approximately the depth of your target fish. Glide parallel to
your target fish and when in range, let your gun turn on to the fish. If the Mackerel does not close on you or
tends to get further away from you, it is best to drop a metre or two and swim very slowly away from the fish.
This action generally encourages the Mackerel to swim up behind you, giving you a chance to turn and get a
shot into the fish.
When a school of Spanish Mackerel appear around you it is always a temptation to dive and keep swapping
targets, but it is always best to pick out a target and stick with your choice, otherwise you will start to spook
the school.
Whether you use a reelgun or a gun with a float line attached, once you have speared a fish and surfaced, you
must always swim forward letting the gun and line or the float and line trail out behind you so that you do not
get tangled up. It is very important to keep line out of the way while you are fighting a live fish, this is where a
sharp knife is important in case of a dangerous tangle.
Be sure to keep your hands well clear of the Spanish Makerel’s teeth, there is nothing sharper!
3.10.4
How to keep your catch in good condition
Before boating your catch, use your knife to dispatch the fish by stabbing it in the spine or brain then cut
around the gills to bleed the fish (this helps stop blood from getting on the flesh when filleting). The fish can
also be gutted at this point to add to the burley stream. Your catch can be placed in a cooler box containing an
ice-slurry (don’t place fish in a cooler box without ice or fish will spoil) or placed on the deck in and under
hessian bags soaked in water to keep cool. The Fillets keep better when all the red meat is removed and also
taste better.
3.11
Club competitions
Every year the club holds two competitions, the “Annual pelagic comp” and the “Cray comp”. BFWA members
must be a member of the AUF (for insurance purposes and claiming records) to participate in the weigh in of
these competitions. If you are not an AUF member you can still attend the weigh-in and BBQ but you will not
be eligible for winning competition prizes. The pelagic comp is held early in the year and the cray comp is held
towards the end of the year. Event details for each will be released before the competition weekend.
3.12
Beginner Target Fish Species
For the beginner spearo it can be hard to identify which fish are worth shooting. Here is a list of a few fish that
are great to start out on in the Perth metro area:
Leatherjackets
Sweep (banded and sea)
Breaksea cod
Samson Fish
King George Whiting
Snook
Flathead
Flounder
Bream
Tailor
Skippy
Goatfish
Australian Salmon
Squid and Cuttlefish
4.0
UNDERWATER PHOTOGRAPHY/CINEMATOGRAPHY
Underwater photography and cinematography (video) are other great aspects of freedive spearfishing. Being
able to document your adventures, the marine life you see and your catch is rewarding, and the better you
are, the more facebook likes you’re going to get! There are a few simple rules to ensure you get good quality
pics and footage and they’ll be outlined below:
4.1
CAMERAS
There are endless types of still and video cameras, from cheap entry level stuff to tens of thousands of dollar
professional models. Buying a semi-decent camera that is capable of being taken underwater is the first step.
Many camera brands offer a 3-10m waterproof ‘tough’ model but these often flood in water less than the
stated depth. A safer option is to purchase a camera that has an optional underwater housing. These housing
are usually capable of 40m+ and will never flood given they are used correctly. There are too many to mention
but any camera around the $300-$500 mark will deliver fantastic shots.
Gopro and Contour make great entry level video cameras. They are cheap, waterproof and can be mounted to
your head, your gun or your arm. They do struggle a little in low light or low visibility but for the price they are
a fantastic buy. If you want to get better footage you’ll need to purchase a handycam and underwater housing,
however even the entry level ones tend to be quite expensive.
4.2
TIPS
A few tips to get good shots and footage are:

Light – Ensure the sun is behind you when taking photos or filming. This will ensure the subject of your
photo is lit by the natural light.

Shadows – Ensure shadows from yourself, dive flags, spearguns, other divers aren’t cast onto the
photo subject by the sun.

Flash – Generally flash won’t make your underwater shots better unless you are extremely close to the
subject (eg: crayfish in a cave) or you have an external strobe. In open water, or in anything other than
perfect visibility, using flash will cause backscatter from particles in the water, ruining your photos.
Flash can be used effectively in the boat or on the shore at sunrise, sunset and after dark.

Does it look good? – If what you are taking a photo of doesn’t look good from where you are, it’s not
going to make a good photo. Look past the camera at what you’re photographing and see whether it
looks good. Sometimes it is hard to tell if you are only focusing on the LCD screen or looking through
the viewfinder. If it doesn’t look good, change the angle, move to avoid shadows, tilt fish towards the
light etc.

Presentation – One of the key aspects of getting good quality photos of your catch is the presentation
of said catch. Capturing a great image of an excellent fish shows some respect towards that animal and
with a bit of thought it can be done quite easily. Wash off blood, photograph the side with less spear
damage, hold fingers and hands out of view of the camera, get gear out of the shot, don’t gut & gill
your fish until you’ve taken photos and most importantly, remember to smile!
5.0
APPENDIX A