Zorzettig 2007 Pinot Grigio

Transcription

BUYING
BUYING GUIDE
GUIDE
Tidy rows of grapevines define the view from the Green Point cellar door.
PHOTO
PHOTO
MICKJOHN
ROCK/CEPHAS
MILLWOOD/CEPHAS
Château de Corton-André,
The sloping vineyards of Italy’s Collio region yield white wines of exceptional character.
Special Retailers’ Release
63|KOSHER
77|AUSTRALIA
78|FRANCE
82|GERMANY
84|ITALY
86|PORTUGAL
88|SPAIN
89|CALIFORNIA
97|OREGON
102|OTHER U.S.
Reviews appearing in102|SPIRITS
the July 2008 issue,
June 4, 2008
W i n e E n t h
FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS,
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88
PINOT GRIGIO
89
Livio Felluga 2006 Pinot Grigio (Collio); $23. Livio Felluga produces one of
Italy’s best Pinot Grigios and this terrific vintage is
no exception. The wine has a slight copper hue to
its color and delivers a full, creamy style with an
emphasis on soft peach and honey. Imported by
Moët Hennessy USA. —M.L.
88
Ca’Tullio 2007 Sdricca di Manzano
Casaforte Crù della Sdricca Pinot Grigio (Colli Orientali del Friuli); $23. This gorgeous, luminous Pinot Grigio, with the slightest
copperish hue to its color, is redolent of exotic fruit,
papaya, mango, pineapple, citrus and banana. It is a
terrific rendition of the white grape, because here
you really taste its true character and silky consistency. Imported by Bonanno Estates. —M.L.
88
Vigneti Fantinel 2006 Vigneti Sant’Helena Pinot Grigio (Collio); $NA. The
wine opens with a saturated golden color and a
thick, viscous appearance followed by aromas of
honey, white peach and passion fruit. It’s a very different, and, yes, superior, style of Pinot Grigio with
an emphasis on structure and elegance. The wine
offers flavors of mature fruit and crisp acidity in the
mouth. —M.L.
87
Antonutti 2006 Poggio Alto Pinot Grigio (Friuli Grave); $NA. This is a sophis-
ticated and elegant Pinot Grigio with obvious oak
shadings that appear as vanilla, butter and exotic
fruit. Those toasted aromas add weight and dimension and render a creamy, soothing feel in the
mouth. Imported by Ferrari Trading LLC. —M.L.
87
Cantarutti 2006 Pinot Grigio (Friuli
Grave); $32. It’s so much fun to see cop-
Cantarutti 2006 Pinot Grigio (Colli Orientali del Friuli); $35. This is a fabulous,
per-colored Pinot Grigios like this one because they
copper-hued Pinot Grigio with a creamy, thick consistency and gorgeous aromas of honeysuckle,
almond and stone fruit. It’s slightly sweet and chewy
in the mouth with mouthwatering acidity on the
close. Imported by Vinilandia USA. —M.L.
before it gained such wide commercial success.
88
Le Vigne di Zamó 2006 Pinot Grigio
(Colli Orientali del Friuli); $NA. This is
a sophisticated Pinot Grigio with a copper hue and
aromas of peach, melon, apricot and almond honey.
It offers great harmony and balance between fruit
and acidity and a creamy, smooth texture on the
finish. Imported by Noble Harvest. —M.L.
88
Mezzacorona 2006 Riserva Pinot Grigio (Trentino); $15. There’s a buttery,
creamy banana feeling to this Grigio that gives the
wine dimension and personality. A creamy consistency characterizes its texture and the wine
achieves a wonderful balance between pulp and
acidity. Imported by Prestige Wine Imports Corp.
—M.L.
88
Plozner 2006 Malpelo Pinot Grigio
(Venezia Giulia); $26. Here’s a creamy,
sophisticated Pinot Grigio with a beautifully saturated golden color and pronounced aromas of stone
fruit, honey, acacia flower and mango. It tastes
smooth and round in the mouth with acidic accents
that make for a good balance. Imported by Empson
(USA) Ltd. —M.L.
W I N E S
evoke the way the wine was traditionally made
Here, you will find aromas of mature peach, pear
and some slightly oxidized almond-like notes as
well. Imported by Vinilandia USA. —M.L.
87
Comelli 2006 Amplius Pinot Grigio
(Colli Orientali del Friuli); $NA.
Although Pinot Grigios are white wines, you could
consider this a rosé instead because of its luminous
copper color. The wine boasts a thick, creamy consistency and has a generous, plush feel in the
mouth. It’s a special and carefully crafted wine.
—M.L.
87
Eugenio Collavini 2007 Villa Canlungo Pinot Grigio (Collio); $19. This is
a fuller and creamier rendition of Pinot Grigio with
pretty aromas of honey, peach blossom and melon
that give the wine a fragrant aromatic lift. It leaves a
lean but smooth impression in the mouth and ends
with bright citrus flavors. Imported by MW
Imports. —M.L.
87
Guerra 2006 Pinot Grigio (Colli Orientali del Friuli); $20. This is a creamy,
viscous Pinot Grigio with warm tones of mature
fruit, pineapple and apricot. It has good staying
power, both in terms of aromas and flavors, and
tastes chewy and fruity. Pair it with white meat or
roasted chicken. Imported by Solstars Inc. —M.L.
R E V I E W E D
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87
Il Roncal 2006 Pinot Grigio (Colli Orientali del Friuli); $21. There’s a fragrant
87
Marco Cecchini 2006 Bellagioia Pinot
Grigio (Venezia Giulia); $17. There’s
87
Pighin 2006 Pinot Grigio (Collio); $20.
87
Poggiobello 2007 Pinot Grigio (Colli
Orientali del Friuli); $NA. This wine
87
Ronco Dei Pini 2006 Pinot Grigio (Collio); $17. Thicker and more concentrated
87
Ronco del Gelso 2006 Sot Lis Rivis
Pinot Grigio (Isonzo del Friuli); $29.
87
Ronco delle Betulle 2006 Pinot Grigio
(Colli Orientali del Friuli); $22. There’s
grassy or herbal quality that is backed by copious
tones of mature fruit, melon and grapefruit. This is
a distinctive, personality-driven wine with a creamy,
full texture that would pair with shellfish or white
meat. Imported by Artisan Wines, Inc. —M.L.
an attractive freshness to this Pinot Grigio that
incorporates elements of citrus, grapefruit, peach,
honey and acacia flowers. The mouthfeel is bright
and fruity and is relaxingly smooth in texture.
Imported by T. Edward Wines Ltd. —M.L.
This Pinot Grigio from northern Italy has
good density and direct aromas of honey, peach and
grapefruit that make for a well balanced ensemble.
The wine is fresh and clean and would pair with
grilled calamari or Thai mango shrimp. Imported
by Kobrand. —M.L.
offers attractive brilliance and surprising aromatic
intensity with harmonious notes of honey, stone
fruit, fresh apricot and melon. It has a creamy, thick
texture that underscores its great potential for food
pairing. —M.L.
than your run-of-the-mill Pinot Grigio, this refreshing white offers notes of white peach, honey and
leachy fruit. It has a creamy, dense feel and enough
acidity to keep it lively and crisp. Imported by John
Given Wines. —M.L.
This delightful Pinot Grigio offers remarkable clarity and precision and generous tones of stone fruit
and citrus while being creamy and rich in density.
Pair it with your favorite seafood recipes. Imported
by Panebianco. —M.L.
a creamy, full quality to this wine that is backed by
aromas of mature peach, yellow flower and honey.
It has an easy approach and would pair well with
salmon or swordfish carpaccio. Imported by PWM
Merchants InC. Astoria. —M.L.
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I S S U E E
87
Tolloy 2007 Pinot Grigio (Alto Adige);
$13. Honey, kiwi, mango and peach come
to mind and color an easy, but fragrant Grigio from
the mountains of northern Italy that would pair well
with exotic or Asian foods. It closes with spicy acidity and is a perfect palate cleaner. Imported by
Prestige Wine Imports Corp. —M.L.
86
Cantina San Martino 2007 Angelo Pittaro Pinot Grigio (Friuli Grave); $NA.
86
Josef Brigl 2006 Sielo Blu Pinot Grigio
(Alto Adige); $NA. This cool-climate
86
La Tunella 2007 Pinot Grigio (Colli
Orientali del Friuli); $19. Here’s a fresh
86
Plozner 2006 Pinot Grigio (Friuli
Grave); $17. There’s a distinctive herbal
There are soapy, grassy elements to the bouquet of
this easy Grigio that help shape its perky, cheerful
personality. The mouthfeel is clean and simple but
the wine does a great job of keeping your palate
clean. Imported by RDLR Wine. —M.L.
Pinot Grigio delivers textbook aromas of white
flower, stone fruit and Golden Delicious apple.
You’ll also find subtle shadings of herbs and white
stone. Imported by Baltz & Co. —M.L.
white wine with an attractive aromatic intensity that
recalls exotic fruit, mango and peach. It has crisp,
fresh acidity and offers determined fruit favors.
Imported by Quintessential Wines. —M.L.
and mineral linearity to this white that is accented
by tones of kiwi and passion fruit. Offers a sharp
point of spicy acidity and just enough structure to
broaden its appeal in the mouth. Closed with a glass
cork. Imported by Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L.
86
Rocca Bernarda 2006 Pinot Grigio
(Colli Orientali del Friuli); $16. This is a
simple, correct PG with aromas of citrus and grapefruit backed by a hint of almond. It also offers good
a balance between sweet fruit flavors and spicy
acidity. Imported by Matt Brothers. —M.L.
86
Santa Margherita 2007 Pinot Grigio
(Alto Adige); $22. Pretty fragrances and
freshness characterize this popular Pinot Grigio
with aromas of stone fruit, acacia flower and honeydew melon. It’s a simple, easy wine with a thin
consistency but those floral aromas help make it
stand out in a crowd. Imported by Terlato Wines
International. —M.L.
86
Vigneti Fantinel 2006 Borgo Tesis
Pinot Grigio (Friuli Grave); $NA.
Instead of the characteristic citrus and stone fruit
aromas you usually associate with a PG, this Italian
white offers mature aromas of apricot, melon and
even a spot of white peppercorn. It has a perky personality and ends with a crisp note of spice. —M.L.
86
Zorzettig 2007 Ronchi di Pietro Pinot
Grigio (Colli Orientali del Friuli); $18.
85
Aldo Polencic 2006 Pinot Grigio (Collio); $NA. This is a distinctive Pinot Gri-
85
Banear 2006 Tentazioni d’Aba Pinot
Grigio (Friuli Grave); $10. Here’s a tight
85
Borgo Magredo 2007 Pinot Grigio
(Friuli Grave); $14. A luminous and
Ca’ Bolani 2007 Pinot Grigio (Friuli
Aquileia); $15. There’s a citrusy, lemon
85
Di Lenardo 2007 Vigneto Vigne dai
Vieris Pinot Grigio (Venezia Giulia);
$10. There are pretty grassy or floral aromatics that
come on the heels of passion fruit and exotic fruit.
The wine has fresh fruit flavors and an attractive
creaminess on the palate. Imported by Martin Scott
Wines. Best Buy. —M.L.
85
Esperto 2006 Pinot Grigio (Delle
Venezie); $13. Here’s a fun, screwcap
85
Girolamo Dorigo 2007 Pinot Grigio
(Colli Orientali del Friuli); $24. The
85
Marega 2006 Pinot Grigio (Collio);
$NA. This is a fragrant Pinot Grigio with
85
Mezzacorona 2007 Pinot Grigio
(Vigneti delle Dolomiti); $9. The aro-
well-executed Grigio with aromas of stone fruit and
citrus, this refreshing wine would make an excellent
companion to spicy Indian food. It’s watery and
lean in the mouth with palate-cleaning freshness.
Imported by Bedford International. —M.L.
mas are subdued and lack in intensity but they do
embrace floral and fruity notes of citrus, peach and
green melon. The wine is simple and compact in
the mouth with bright lemon zest on the close.
Imported by Prestige Wine Imports Corp. Best
Buy. —M.L.
85
85
Perusini 2007 Ronchi di Gramogliano
Pinot Grigio (Colli Orientali del Friuli);
This is a delicate and feminine copper-colored Pinot
Grigio made by Francesco and Fulvio Zorzettig that
boasts finely tuned aromas of white rose, peach and
exotic fruit. It offers zesty acidity and a crisp, cleansing close. Imported by Enotec Imports, Inc. —M.L.
gio with aromas that recall peach and exotic fruit,
backed by a slightly yeasty tone of baked bread. It
has a sweet, slightly chewy, texture in the mouth
and high alcohol. —M.L.
and compact Grigio with a pretty bouquet of passion fruit, white flowers and peach. It is lean and
lightweight in the mouth but keeps the palate polished and clean. Imported by The Country Vintner. Best Buy. —M.L.
soda quality to this wine that is backed by aromas of
passion fruit, kiwi and mango. It’s an easy, aromatic
white with fresh zest and a friendly approach.
Imported by Zonin USA. —M.L.
85
Conte Brandolini 2006 D’Adda Pinot
Grigio (Friuli Grave); $12. This is neu-
tral Pinot Grigio with the fruity and citrusy aromas
you normally associate with the variety present in
limited intensity. Yet the clean, refreshing mouthfeel
makes it highly drinkable and a good match to finger
foods. Imported by Palm Bay International. —M.L.
Pinot Grigio that opens with peach, pineapple and
lemon zest followed by light mineral shadings. It’s
fresh, easy and compact overall. Imported by Moët
Hennessy USA. —M.L.
emphasis here is on fresh, floral fragrances that give
this wine a bright, springtime feel. Peach and lemon
blossoms steal the show and the wine has a cool, easy
feel in the mouth. Imported by Panebianco. —M.L.
aromas of stone fruit, citrus and melon that delivers
a thin and somewhat watery mouthfeel followed by
a crisp, fresh close. It’s an easy, informal wine that
could be paired with afternoon finger foods.
Imported by Laird & Company. —M.L.
$27. This is textbook Pinot Grigio with a hint of
nut, natural rubber or white stone in the background that renders a dusty quality overall. It
imparts fresh citrus flavors over a thin consistency.
Imported by Dolce Sarde Inc. —M.L.
85
Pighin 2007 Pinot Grigio (Friuli
Grave); $14. Stone fruit and passion fruit
best describe the nose of this easy, lightweight Pinot
Grigio. You’ll also get distant accents of white peppercorn for added dimension. This is a very informal, easy wine. Imported by Kobrand. —M.L.
W i n e E n t h u s i a s t . c o m / m a g
85
San Simone 2007 Prestige Pinot Grigio (Friuli Grave); $18. Here is a light
and easy Grigio with simple aromas of passion fruit
and citrus that add bright freshness to the mouth. It
is lean and watery in consistency, making for a good
match to easy snacks or picnic foods. Imported by
Speciality Brands, Spirits & Wines. —M.L.
85
Valchiarò 2006 Pinot Grigio (Colli Orientali del Friuli); $14. Here’s an easy but
powerful Grigio with aromas of cut grass and exotic
fruit. The wine has good structure and weight suggesting a pairing with fish, risotto or a Greek salad.
Imported by Premier Imports LLC. —M.L.
85
Villa Rubini 2007 Pinot Grigio (Colli
Orientali del Friuli); $15. The aromas
of this simple Grigio recall fruit candy or lemon
soda but don’t feel synthetic in any way. The wine is
very organic in a sweet, floral manner. Pair it with
Thai curry with fresh basil. Imported by Scoperta
Importing Co. Inc. —M.L.
85
Zorzettig 2007 Pinot Grigio (Colli Orientali del Friuli); $20. There’s a dande-
lion or herbal note here that is backed by peach,
citrus and grapefruit. The wine offers a slightly copperish hue and has flavors that are crisp and fresh.
Imported by Nannicola Distributing, Inc. —M.L.
PINOT BIANCO
92
Aldo Polencic 2006 Bianco degli Ulivi
Pinot Bianco (Collio); $52. This is a first
class, slightly oaked Pinot Bianco that achieves
wonderful balance between fruity and buttery
notes. It’s opulent, compelling, creamy and rich
with persistent nutty flavors on its long finish.
Imported by PWM Merchants Inc. Astoria. —M.L.
90
Le Vigne di Zamó 2004 Pinot Bianco
(Colli Orientali del Friuli); $27. Here’s a
wood-aged Pinot Bianco with aromas of vanilla and
creamy butter backed by banana, exotic fruit and
mango. The oak shadings give the wine a sophisticated, opulent edge and suggest a pairing with lobster or New England clam chowder. Imported by
Noble Harvest. —M.L.
FOR MORE WINE RATINGS,
VISIT OUR WEB SITE AT
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W I N E S
87
Castello di Porcìa 2006 Pinot Bianco
(Friuli Grave); $NA. Here is a full-force
Pinot Bianco with compelling notes of mature apricot, candied fruit, honey, pine nut and maple syrup.
The wine has a saturated, golden hue and resinlike flavors that add texture and dimension. —M.L.
87
Ermacora 2006 Pinot Bianco (Colli
Orientali del Friuli); $16. Here’s a dis-
tinctive Pinot Bianco with aromas of smoked ham
and roasted chestnut that would pair well with a
Béchamel sauce or butter-roasted shellfish. The
wine has a smooth, even texture and a long, satisfying finish with power and cleansing alcohol.
Imported by K&L Wine Merchants. —M.L.
87
Vigneti le Monde 2007 Pinot Bianco
(Friuli Grave); $15. This is a fresh and
fruity Pinot Bianco with tender shadings of cut
grass, exotic fruit and fragrant spring flowers. In
the mouth, this seductive white from northern Italy
offers generous fruity flavors and a compact build.
Imported by Solstars Inc. —M.L.
87
Zorzettig 2007 Pinot Bianco (Colli Orientali del Friuli); $20. There’s a smoky,
sophisticated quality to this Pinot Bianco that
recalls oven-roasted pears or honey-covered
almonds. The wine is smooth and rich with lingering flavors of pine nut and maple syrup. Imported
by Nannicola Distributing, Inc. —M.L.
86
Di Lenardo 2007 Vigneto Vigne dai
Vieris Pinot Bianco (Venezia Giulia);
$10. This is a very fragrant and pungent Pinot
Bianco with aromas of exotic fruit, pineapple, apricot and melon. It represents a lighter, fresher take
on the robust grape and delivers a medium, compact structure in the mouth. Imported by Martin
Scott Wines. Best Buy. —M.L.
86
Jacùss 2006 Pinot Bianco (Colli Orientali del Friuli); $24. The nose on this
86
Scubia 2006 Pinot Bianco (Colli Orientali del Friuli); $25. Here’s an unusual
Pinot Bianco is simple but genuine and offers aroma
of stone fruit, honey and a touch of citrus. It’s a clean
and correct wine that offers an easy, straightforward
style. Imported by Vitis Imports. —M.L.
Pinot Bianco with a layered nose that includes tones
of dried hay, stone fruit, peppermint and natural rubber. The mouthfeel is easy and informal but there is
enough texture here to pair with roasted chicken or
fish. Imported by Vinifera Imports. —M.L.
R E V I E W E D
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FRIULANO
91
La Tunella 2006 Campo Marzio Friulano (Colli Orientali del Friuli); $37.
88
Plozner 2006 Moscabianca Friulano
(Venezia Giulia); $26. Here is a pretty,
88
Zorzettig 2007 Verduzzo Friulano
(Colli Orientali del Friuli); $20. This
87
I Clivi 2004 Clivi Brazan Tocai Friulano (Collio); $24. The nose here is
This is a slightly buttery blend of Friulano and
Ribolla Gialla with gorgeous aromas of stone fruit,
vanilla bean, honey and drying minerals. The wine
boasts a thick, creamy consistency and beautiful
fruit flavors capped by a playfully spicy finish. Wonderful. Imported by Quintessential Wines. —M.L.
luminous wine from old vines with ripe tones of
stone fruit, apricot and honey that would pair very
well with seafood or white meat. It has a thick,
chewy texture and refreshing acidity on the finish.
Imported by Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L.
sweet, amber-colored Verduzzo Friulano offers a
very unique experience thanks to its intense aromas of honey, maron glacé, pine resin and maple
syrup. A dessert wine, it carries flavors of candied
fruit over its long, chewy finish. Imported by Nannicola Distributing, Inc. —M.L.
redolent of ripe pear and Golden Delicious apple
and has background shadings of honey and peach
syrup. It is luminous, thick and creamy in appearance and offers a soft, chewy finish. Imported by
Artisan Wines, Inc. —M.L.
WHITE BLENDS
91
La Tunella 2006 Biancosesto (Colli
Orientali del Friuli); $23. Creamy and
90
La Tunella 2007 Biancosesto (Colli
Orientali del Friuli); $23. Here’s an aro-
buttery with gorgeous notes of stone fruit, exotic
fruit, vanilla, honey and a playful touch of banana,
this wine is an exceptional companion to shellfish,
clams or chowder. The aromas are direct, intense
and very seductive. This is an opulent, sophisticated
wine that wins high scores across the board, thanks
to its genuine intensity and its crisp, flavor-rich finish. Imported by Quintessential Wines. —M.L.
matic blend that delivers fresh tones of exotic fruit,
peach and chopped mint. It’s exciting and refreshing and does a terrific job of keeping the palate
2 0 0 8
I S S U E E
clean while also offering creamy sophistication.
90
Marega 2003 Holbar Bianco (Friuli);
$NA. Here’s an intense, slightly oxidized,
80-20 blend of Riesling and Chard that is redolent
of apple, pear, pine nut, resin and maple syrup. The
wine has loads of personality and complexity and is
very unique in a non-commercial way. The word
Holbar refers to the acacia wood casks used to age
the wine. Imported by Laird & Company. —M.L.
89
Conte D’Attimis-Maniago 2004 Ronco
Broilo (Colli Orientali del Friuli); $NA.
Here’s an oak-aged 60-40 blend of Pinot Bianco
86
Banear 2006 Mamàn (Delle Venezie);
$NA. A luminous Italian white wine
86
Masi 2006 Modello delle Venezie
(Venezie); $10. Opulent and creamy, this
offersing subdued tones of stone fruit, white mineral and honey. There’s an aromatic component that
is reminiscent of mint and the wine is clean and
easy in the mouth with a vibrant, fresh finish.
Imported by The Country Vintner. —M.L.
well-made and well-priced blend delivers distinctive notes of banana, vanilla and almond backed by
stone fruit and mature melon. It’s cool and crisp
and offers lingering flavors of exotic fruit. Imported
by Remy Cointreau USA. Best Buy. —M.L.
and Chardonnay with an elegant bouquet that
recalls honey, vanilla bean, almond and exotic fruit.
The wine is soft, slightly sweet and opulent in the
mouth with spicy herbal accents on its long finish.
—M.L.
87
Furlan 2006 Castelcosa Cuvée Tai
(Venezia Giulia); $NA. This blend
OTHER WHITES
88
La Tunella 2006 Rjgialla Selènze
Ribolla Gialla (Colli Orientali del
Friuli); $21. This Ribolla Gialla from northern
“glass of wine” in the Friuli dialect. —M.L.
Italy delivers aromas of peach, apricot, honey, natural rubber and exotic fruit and there’s an interesting herbal or floral note that adds dimension and
personality. The mouthfeel delivers medium structure but makes up for it with its long, crisp finish.
87
88
of Tocai Friulano, Traminer and Pinot Bianco delivers a creamy, rich consistency and fresh notes of
peach, apricot, honey and yellow rose. Tai means
Marco Cecchini 2006 Tové (Colli Orientali del Friuli); $17. Aromas of honey,
chestnut and mature fruit are followed by drying
mineral flavors and crisp freshness. The wine is
made from a blend of Tocai and Verduzzo Friulano, which is an often over-looked white wine variety from Northern Italy with good structure and
density. Imported by T. Edward Wines Ltd. —M.L.
87
Midolini 2006 Rosacroce (Colli Orientali del Friuli); $25. Deeply fragrant and
fresh, this blend of SB, Chard and Friulano delivers
aromas of honey, white peach and acacia flower.
The wine is loaded with fruit flavors and ends with
spicy, herbal tones that create a lively, fresh finish.
Imported by Aventine Hill LLC. —M.L.
87
Rocca Bernarda 2006 Vineis (Colli
Orientali del Friuli); $21. Creamy and
full in the glass with thick streaks of glycerin, this is
a luminous white blend with pretty aromas of stone
fruit, honey and peach cobbler. The wine has a
smooth, full consistency and a soft, generous finish.
Imported by Matt Brothers. —M.L.
La Tunella 2007 Rjgialla Selènze
Ribolla Gialla (Colli Orientali del
Friuli); $21. This is creamy, elegant Ribolla Gialla
that offers soft tones of peach, melon, yellow rose,
vanilla, honey and bee’s wax. The wine tastes fruity
and fresh and has enough consistency to drive its
flavors over a long, satisfying finish. Imported by
Quintessential Wines. —M.L.
87
Ca’Tullio 2007 Sdricca di Manzano
Sauvignon (Colli Orientali del Friuli);
$19. Here is a cheerful and fragrant Sauvignon with
aromas of citrus, exotic fruit and natural rubber. The
wine has good dimension and personality and a
compact feel in the mouth that ends with bright
freshness. Imported by Bonanno Estates. —M.L.
87
Folonari 2007 Chardonnay (Delle
Venezie); $12. This delicious Chardon-
nay offers creamy opulence and rich notes of
vanilla, honey and peach. It has dense, slightly
sweet, fruit flavors lavished over good structure and
ends with spicy crispness. Pair it with white meat or
pasta salad. Imported by Frederick Wildman &
Sons, Ltd. Best Buy. —M.L.
86
Ca’Tullio 2007 Traminer Aromatico
(Friuli Aquileia); $15. Fragrant and aro-
84
Zorzettig 2007 Chardonnay (Colli Orientali del Friuli); $20. The wine’s golden
matic with soapy, floral intensity and notes of
mango and papaya, this is a vibrant Traminer that
would pair well with spicy, exotic foods. It has a
lean feel and ends with bright fruit flavors.
Imported by Bonanno Estates. —M.L.
color and rich appearance are very attractive, but its
aromas of rubber and sour fruit are somewhat awkward. This does have a fresh and vibrant feel in the
mouth with nice crispness on the finish. Imported
by Nannicola Distributing, Inc. —M.L.
PROVENCE
ROSÉ WINES
91
Domaine Saint-André de Figuière
2007 Réserve (Côtes de Provence);
$27. This full-bodied, richly textured rosé is wonderfully aromatic and floral, with dried spices, plums
and cherries all mingling on the nose. Made from
80% Mourvèdre, it behaves almost like a good red
wine, but with extra zest and freshness. You could sip
it on its own, with white meats or even burgers or
steaks. Imported by Frank Johnson Selections.
—J.C.
90
Château Rasque 2007 Cuvée Alexandra (Côtes de Provence); $NA. Smells
90
Domaine d’Eole 2007 Coteaux d’Aix
en Provence; $15. Floral and fresh, but
of fresh strawberries and grapefruit, then adds
deeper notes of cherries and spice on the palate.
This medium-bodied rosé should prove exceptionally versatile at the table, having enough weight to
handle red meat and enough freshness to pair with
lighter, lunch-friendly fare. Imported by House of
Burgundy. —J.C.
there’s more to it than just a simple quaff. Watermelon and berry flavors are carried by a plump,
medium-bodied palate, slightly oily texture and a
long, mouthwatering finish. Imported by Vinifrance.
Best Buy. —J.C.
90
2007 Vieilles Vignes (Côtes de
Provence); $20. The domaine bottling of SaintAndré de Figuière really ratchets up the quality
over its négociant wines, adding much more weight
and concentration. This blend of 50% Mourvèdre,
20% Grenache and 25% Cinsault blends black
cherry and citrus flavors into a richly textured, spicy
rosé. Imported by Frank Johnson Selections. —J.C.
90
Domaines Ott 2007 Château de Selle
(Côtes de Provence); $42. It’s expen-
sive, but there’s no denying the high quality of this
wine. Almost smoky, mineral-like complexity
emerges on the nose, followed by hints of cherry
fruit underscored by dramatic freshness on the
lengthy finish. Imported by Maisons Marques &
Domaines USA. —J.C.
89
Château d’Esclans 2006 Les Clans
(Côtes de Provence); $80. A distinctive
style of rosé, bearing more than a passing resemblance to Chardonnay, in its barrel-fermented and
lees-stirred character. Plump strawberry and raspberry fruit is marked by vanilla, smoke and spice on
the palate. Imported by Shaw-Ross International
Importers. —J.C.
89
Château d’Esclans 2006 Garrus (Côtes
de Provence); $100. An interesting take
on rosé, with toasty, smoky aromas and hints of baking spices and vanilla layered atop raspberry and
strawberry fruit. Concentrated and long on the finish. Imported by Shaw-Ross International
Importers. —J.C.
89
Château Minuty 2007 Cuvée Prestige
(Côtes de Provence); $28. The top rosé
from Minuty is 95% Grenache, and shows a richly
spiced nose that’s almost musky or feral, balanced
by pink grapefruit aromas. It’s longer and finer in
the mouth than the Cuvée de l’Oratoire, with more
pronounced minerality and crisper acids. Imported
by Romano Brands. —J.C.
88
Château des Gavelles 2007 Coteaux
d’Aix en Provence; $NA. Less fruit-dri-
ven than most Provence rosés, this is a refined, elegant style that provides complexity in the form of
spice, mineral and hints of green herbs. Long on the
finish. Imported by Regal Wine Imports Inc. —J.C.
88
Château du Galoupet 2007 Côtes de
Provence; $NA. A pale salmon-colored
rosé, this is largely Cinsault (60%), with the rest a
blend of Grenache and Syrah. It’s more minerally
than most, with canteloupe and pomegranate fruit
and a minerally finish reminiscent of smoky quartz.
Imported by Jerome Selection. —J.C.
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87
Château Beaulieu 2007 Coteaux
d’Aix en Provence; $12. Bottled in a
traditional wavy Provençal bottle, this cuvée is less
confected than many modern rosés, instead packaging hints of peach and mineral in a lean, citrusy
style that lingers on the finish. Imported by Regal
Wine Imports Inc. Best Buy. —J.C.
87
Château d’Esclans 2006 Côtes de
Provence; $40. This is smoky and miner-
ally upfront, influenced by barrel notes, but there’s
also some intense strawberry and raspberry fruit on
the palate and a minerally reprise on the concentrated finish. Imported by Shaw-Ross International
Château La Calisse 2006 Coteaux
Varois; $18. For a Coteaux de Varois, this
Importers. —R.V.
shows a good amount of minerality, usually associated with cool appellations. This medium-bodied
rosé features hints of red apples, currants and citrus
that finish long and stony. Imported by Margaux &
Company. —J.C.
87
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melon scents all mingle easily, finishing with clean,
Château Mar güi 2007 Coteaux
Varois; $20. A 50-50 blend of Cinsault
and Grenache, this is a medium-bodied, plump,
succulent rosé, hinting at grapefruit and underripe
peaches. It’s nicely balanced, with a long, slightly
minerally finish. Drink now. Imported by Bradley
Alan Imports LLC. —J.C.
88
Château Vignelaure 2007 Coteaux
d’Aix en Provence; $NA. Mainly Syrah,
this is a rich, full style of dry rosé, with plenty of
strawberry and watermelon fruit and a layered, textured mouthfeel. Imported by Blue Coast International. —J.C.
88
Château de Pampelonne 2007 Côtes
de Provence; $NA. A blend of Tibouren,
Cinsault, Grenache and Syrah, this is exactly the
kind of authoritatively flavored yet nicely balanced
rosé that Provence is famous for. Peach, cherry and
minerally accents that invite another sip. Imported
by Wine Agencies Inc. —J.C.
87
Château de Pourcieux 2007 Côtes de
Provence; $NA. A tight, minerally rosé,
Pourcieux’s 2007 would go well with chicken or fish
dishes. It’s very fresh in character, with hints of
berries on the long, citrusy finish. Imported by
Baron Francois LTD. —J.C.
87
Château du Galoupet 2005 Tibur
(Côtes de Provence); $NA. Here’s an
interesting rosé fans of obscure winegrapes will
Domaine de la Sauveuse 2007 Cuvée
Carolle (Côtes de Provence); $15. This
love. It’s 90% Tibouren, an old variety indigenous to
difficulty in the vineyard. This wine also stays an
the Domaine de Caseneuve features a succulent,
plump mouthfeel, decent concentration and good
length. Cherry and pineapple aromas and flavors
end on notes of citrus and chalk. Imported by
Metrowine Distribution. —J.C.
blend of Syrah, Grenache and Cinsault is less obviously fruity than many Provençal rosés, but makes
up for that in weight and richness. It’s a round, full
style, with a layered texture, some dark fruit flavors
and a minerally finish. Imported by Vintage Trading
Inc. —J.C.
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89
Domaine de Caseneuve 2007 Côtes
de Provence; $NA. A fruit-driven rosé,
Domaine Sorin 2007 Terra Amata
(Côtes de Provence); $12. More com-
plex and richly textured than most Provençal rosés,
this wine is a treat, from its mineral-laden, smoky
aromas to its ripe cherry-berry flavors and layered
finish. Drink now, although it has enough stuffing
to suggest it might last longer than just a single
summer. Imported by Grape Expectations (CA).
Best Buy. —J.C.
W I N E S
Jean-Luc Colombo 2007 Rosé de Côte
Bleue (Coteaux d’Aix en Provence);
$13. Rhône-based négociant Jean-Luc Colombo
has crafted this fleshy, ripe and round rosé from a
blend of 40% Syrah, 40% Mourvèdre and 20%
Counoise. It’s got plenty of cherry fruit, but that’s
balanced by hints of minerality and a touch of fresh
lime on the finish. Imported by Palm Bay International. Best Buy. —J.C.
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Provence that’s known for its finesse but also for its
entire year in tank resting on its lees, so it’s not a
fruit-forward rosé at all. Hints of apricot and peach
are subtle, with the emphasis being on the wines
crisp acids and dry finish. Imported by Jerome
Selection. —J.C.
87
Château Marouïne 2006 Côtes de
Provence; $14. A coppery-tinged rosé,
with mineral and citrus rind aromas and flavors that
lean toward white peach and orange rind. It’s a
medium-bodied, plump wine that finishes with a
bit of spice and good balance. The blend includes
Grenache, Cinsault, Mourvèdre and Carignan.
Imported by Bercut-Vandervoort & Co. —J.C.
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I S S U E E
87
Château Minuty 2007 Cuvée de l’Oratoire (Côtes de Provence); $25. This
had just been bottled, but didn’t seem to be suffering at all, showing exuberent fruit—cherries,
peaches and melons—even a hint of banana. Mineral notes provide balance on the finish, along with
the slightest touch of bitterness. Imported by
Romano Brands. —J.C.
87
Domaines Ott 2006 Château de Selle
Clair de Noirs (Côtes de Provence);
$42. A pale salmon colored rosé, this medium- to
full-bodied wine offers scents of honeydew, red
berries, peach and crushed stones and flavors to
match. The only quibble is that it finishes a little
abruptly. This is very good, but consumers should
be on the lookout for the fresher 2007. Imported by
Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —J.C.
87
Saint André de Figuière 2007 Magali
(Côtes de Provence); $15. There’s a
slightly confected top-note of cotton candy or bubble gum to this wine, but also decent concentration of canteloupe and peach fruit aromas and
flavors. It’s plump and medium-bodied, with a
touch of refreshing minerality on the finish.
Imported by Frank Johnson Selections. —J.C.
86
Baron Gassier 2007 Sainte Victoire
(Côtes de Provence); $16. This is a
vibrant light pink rosé, imbued with cherry and citrus aromas and copious red-fruit flavors of cherry,
strawberry and raspberry. Yet despite all its fruitfulness, there’s still adequate freshness and drive on
the dry, clean finish. Imported by Cannon Wines
Limited. —J.C.
86
Château d’Esclans 2006 Whispering
Angel (Côtes de Provence); $20. A
blend of Grenache and Rolle, this easy-drinking
rosé features peach and canteloupe aromas, simple
ripe strawberry and grapefruit flavors and a fruitdriven finish. Imported by Shaw-Ross International
Importers. —J.C.
86
Château des Annibals 2007 Suivez
Moi Jeune Homme (Coteaux Varois);
$15. The high proportion of Cinsault in this wine
(60%, versus 40% Grenache) shows in its spice and
mineral character. The strawberry and stone-fruit
elements are on the delicate side and could use a
touch more flesh, but the wine finishes well, with
spicy notes and a touch more minerality. Imported
by Bourgeois Family Selections. —J.C.
86
Château Routas 2007 Rouvièr e
(Coteaux Varois); $13. This is a pale,
peach-scented rosé, with hints of cherries as well.
The blend of 40% Cinsault, 30% Grenache and
30% Syrah lacks the lively acids of some Provençal
rosés, but features a pleasant roundness on the
palate instead, finishing soft and easy. Imported by
Routas USA. —J.C.
86
Domaine d’Eole 2006 Cuvée Caprice
(Coteaux d’Aix en Provence); $21.
86
Domaine de la Courtade 2007 L’Alycastre (Côtes de Provence); $NA. From
86
L’Estandon 2007 Côtes de Provence;
$12. Fragrant and floral on the nose, but
This is an oak-aged rosé, so be prepared for its
toasty overtones and slightly caramelly flavors. The
berry fruit is concentrated, but it also seems to lack
a bit of freshness. Vanilla chimes in on the finish.
Imported by Vinifrance. —J.C.
a small island in the Mediterranean, this is a nicely
scented rosé with hints of peaches, melons, raspberries and pink grapefruit. It shows a fair bit of
richness and body and plenty of authoritative flavor,
just comes up a little short on the finish. Imported
by Winebow. —J.C.
also slightly confected, with hints of bubble gum.
The cherries and berries verge on tutti-frutti, but
feature just enough minerality on the finish to provide focus. Drink now. Imported by Diageo
Chateau & Estates. —J.C.
86
Mas de la Dame 2007 Rosé du Mas
(Les Baux de Provence); $15. Slightly
confected on the nose, showing cotton candy and
bubble gum aromas, but you’ll also find plenty of
strawberry-raspberry flavors. Very fruity and clean,
with a fresh finish. Imported by Palm Bay International. —J.C.
86
Saint Roch Les Vignes 2007 Côtes de
Provence; $NA. A sturdy blend of 50%
Grenache and 50% Cinsault, this is a touch less aromatic than many rosés, but more robust, with peach
and citrus flavors, medium weight and firm structure. Imported by Wine Agencies Inc. —J.C.
85
Château Calissanne 2007 Coteaux
d’Aix en Provence; $17. Mainly
Grenache and Cinsault, this intense and freshly
fruity rosé offers oodles of powerful berry and citrus aromas and flavors. There’s not a lot of complexity, just forward fruit, meant to be quaffed
down cold. Imported by Petit Pois. —J.C.
85
Château de L’Aumerade 2007 Cuvée
Marie-Christine (Côtes de Provence);
$NA. A solid effort, showing plenty of fruit—strawberries and cherries—and some slightly floral elements. A touch on the full side, it’s balanced by a
sense of minerality, but finishing a little short.
Imported by North American Beverage Group.
—J.C.
85
Domaine Houchart 2007 Côtes de
Provence; $12. This rather plump, fleshy
rosé is a blend of at least six grape varieties, mainly
Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault. It’s a beautiful pale
flamingo pink in the glass, and features plenty of
strawberry and cherry fruit, if not that much in the
way of minerality or depth. It’s a perfect poolside
sipper. Imported by David Milligan Selections.
—J.C.
85
Jules 2007 Côtes de Provence; $18. A
blend of Grenache, Cinsault and Carignan,
this offering is very citrusy upfront, filled with
grapefruit aromas. It’s light to medium in weight,
with flavors reminiscent of tangerines and hints of
strawberries and something vaguely vegetal on the
finish. Imported by Barterhouse. —J.C.
84
Baron Gassier 2007 Sables d’Azur
(Côtes de Provence); $9. A light-bodied
84
Les Domaniers de Puits Mouret 2006
Côtes de Provence; $20. From the pro-
84
Le Saint-André 2007 Vin de Pays Var;
$NA. A bright, slightly confected rosé
rosé with plenty of freshness on the finish, this is
very clean and fruity in a slightly confected style.
The delicate strawberry and cherry flavors are
pleasant enough. Best served well chilled. Imported
by Cannon Wines Limited. —J.C.
ducers of Domaines Ott, this is an attempt at an
entry-level rosé. It’s plump in the mouth, delviering
round, canteloupe and citrus flavors, but finishes a
bit soft. Imported by Maisons Marques &
Domaines USA. —J.C.
blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Grenache and
Cinsault, this is flavorful but a bit short. Imported
by Frank Johnson Selections. —J.C.
RED WINES
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Domaine d’Eole 2003 Cuvée Lea
Richer and deeper than the 2004 version, this
shows an abundance of black cherry fruit, but also
layers of spicy, savory complexity. Dominated by
old-vine Grenache, it could easily be mistaken for a
Lirac or Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Drink now–2015.
91
Mas de la Dame 2004 Coin Caché
Rouge (Les Baux de Provence); $36.
Rich and ripe—nearly over the top in ripeness—
this is a luscious blend of 90% Grenache and 10%
Syrah matured in old foudres. Without any appreciable oak, what shines are the superripe Grenache
flavors of black cherries and cola and the soft, plush
tannins. A concentrated, long finish. Imported by
Palm Bay International. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
91
Mas de la Dame 2005 Le Vallon des
Amants (Les Baux de Provence); $37.
Completely different in style from the estate’s Coin
Caché rouge, this is primarily Mourvèdre, and primarily aged in new oak. Despite the oak, the fruit
shines through, offering up ripe, mouthfilling flavors of blackberry, cola, coffee and spice. Firmly
structured, this could repay 5–7 years of cellaring.
Imported by Palm Bay International. Cellar Selection. —J.C.
90
Château Les Valentines 2005 Bagnard
(Côtes de Provence); $40. This blend
of one-third each Mourvèdre, Syrah and Cabernet
Sauvignon features ample perfumes of flowers,
spice and black cherries. On the palate, it’s refreshingly medium-bodied, not a big, hulking wine, but
rather pretty, with unusually refined and elegant
tannins on the finish. Drink now–2015. Imported
by Potomac Selections. —J.C.
90
Château Vignelaure 2004 Coteaux
d’Aix en Provence; $NA. A top-notch
effort, the 2004 Vignelaure is a blend of 75%
Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Syrah and 5% Grenache.
The Cab dominates the bouquet, featuring cedary
notes and hints of mint and tobacco, but it’s softened and smoothed out on the palate by the inclusion of the other varieties, offering more cherries
than cassis. Approachable now, but this is a wine
that’s balanced for up to 20 years of aging, as the
1990 still appears to have plenty of life. Imported
by Blue Coast International. —J.C.
90
Château Revelette 2005 Le Grand
Rouge (Coteaux d’Aix en Provence);
$34. The blend in Revelette’s top red is 45% Syrah,
35% Cab Sauvignon and 20% Grenache, although
it varies a bit from year to year. It’s riper, warmer
and richer than the regular red, with plenty of
savory spice notes, lavender and black cherry fruit.
W I N E S
It’s long and richly tannic on the finish, but soft and
rounded; a wine that you could drink now or hold
up to 10 years. Imported by Petit Pois. —J.C.
90
Château Vignelaure 2000 La Colline
de Vignelaure (Vin de Pays des
Coteaux du Verdon); $NA. This blend of 80%
Merlot and 20% Cabernet is aged in 100% new
oak, and even seven-plus years after the vintage the
oak is still prominent—there’s lots of vanilla and
toast upfront. That said, the wine has a rich, creamy
texture and plenty of black cherry and herb notes
come through on the finish, so the bet here is that
this just needs another year or two before being
ready for primetime. Imported by Blue Coast
International. —J.C.
90
Should easily age 5–6 years or more. Imported by
Petit Pois. —J.C.
89
de Provence; $NA. This red, from the
Saint-Tropez area, is a blend of 40% Grenache, 40%
Syrah and 20% Mourvèdre. It yields wonderfully
complex notes of garrigue and dried spices, but also
warm black cherry fruit and supple tannins. Round
in the mouth and easy to drink even at this young
age. Imported by Wine Agencies Inc. —J.C.
89
Clos Saint-Joseph 2004 Villars-surVar (Côtes de Provence); $42. This is
an unusually elegant wine for Provence, from a tiny,
isolated vineyard in the maritime Alps. It’s a blend
Philippine (Côtes de Provence); $19.
of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, that’s gently
Like the estate’s Cuvée Carolle, this has a note of
volatility and sur-maturité, but it’s also bigger, richer
and more extracted, with lots of ripe tannins but
also thick purple fruit that comes through on the
finish. Try in 2010. 40% Syrah, 40% Cab Sauvignon, 10% Mourvèdre, 10% Grenache. Imported
by Vintage Trading Inc. —J.C.
delicate fragrances and flavors, ranging from vio-
90
Domaine d’Eole 2006 Coteaux d’Aix
en Provence; $17. Inspired in part by
Châteauneuf-du-Pape, this is primarily old-vine
Grenache, packing ample black-cherry fruit into a
ripe, round offering. Spice plays a more supporting
role here than in the Réserve des Gardians cuvée,
but there’s more power and weight here, framed
by plentiful but softly ripe tannins. Drink
now–2016. Imported by Vinifrance. —J.C.
90
2005 Réserve (Côtes de Provence);
$33. Predominantly Mourvèdre (90%), this is a
dark, plummy wine with hints of the variety’s characteristic mushroomy and tree bark notes. Some
cinnamon and vanilla from new oak barrels rounds
out the wine, giving it an appealing softness and velvety feel to the finish. Drink now–2015. Imported
89
Château Calissanne 2003 Rocher
Rouge (Coteaux d’Aix en Provence);
$80. Cropped at a tiny 20 hl/hA (just over 1
ton/acre), this wine is 99% Mourvèdre (all AC
Coteaux d’Aix en Provence reds must be blends).
It’s rich and creamy-textured on the palate and
turns pronouncedly tannic on the finish, but showcases ripe blackberry, vanilla and cola flavors.
R E V I E W E D
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extracted, crimson in color and filled with intricate,
lets and a hint of iodine to red cherries and maybe
even a touch of apricot. Drink now and over the
next few years. Imported by Blue Coast International. —J.C.
89
Domaine d’Eole 2004 Cuvée Lea
Similar to the domaine’s regular bottling, this is
based on Grenache, but aged in approximately 20%
new oak barrels. The wood adds a slightly smoky,
savory element to the black cherry fruit, but also
slightly rougher tannnins in the wine’s youth. Try
this from 2010. Imported by Vinifrance. —J.C.
89
Mas de la Dame 2004 Réserve du
Mas (Les Baux de Provence); $22. A
blend of approximately one-third each Grenache,
Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine sees only
20% new oak, so the wood is deep in the background. Instead, plum and cassis, licorice and mint
take hold of the senses; the tannins are rich but
ripe, giving the wine texture and length on the finish. Drink now– 2014. Imported by Palm Bay
88
Château Calissanne 2004 Clos Victoire (Coteaux d’Aix en Provence);
$38. More aromatic, fresher and better balanced
than the 2003, the 2004 Clos Victoire rouge is an
identical blend of 70% Syrah and 30% Cab Sauvignon. In contrast to the jammy and chocolaty 2003,
this shows some delicate herbal inflections to the
blackberry flavors. Imported by Petit Pois. —J.C.
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Varois; $25. This is 80% Syrah, but the
20% Cabernet Sauvignon shows more right now,
delivering cassis and tobacco aromas and flavors
that mark the nose and palate. Syrah provides
depth and roundness, as well as supple tannins.
Half the wine is aged in barrel, so there are hints of
vanilla as well. Nicely balanced. Imported by
Bradley Alan Imports LLC. —J.C.
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Domaine d’Eole 2005 Réserve des
Gardians (Coteaux d’Aix en
Provence); $14. A lovely Côtes-du-Rhône looka-
like, this blend of young-vine Syrah and Grenache
with old-vine Carignan and Cinsault features plenty
of spice to go with ample fruit. Dried cinnamon,
clove and a hint of cracked pepper accent black
cherry flavors, while a slightly herbal note adds
complexity and fine-grained tannins give structure.
88
Provence); $28. This blend of 50% Mourvèdre
and 50% Syrah shows some deep, plummy aromas
and flavors and blackberries, spice and cola. It’s
medium-bodied, with soft tannins and a touch of
warmth on the finish. Drink now–2014. Imported
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J u l e s 2 0 0 4 Re s e r ve ( C ô t e s d e
Provence); $25. Mainly Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon, this shows off Cabernet’s cedary, leafy qualities to advantage, using them to accent its cassis
fruit. It’s a nicely balanced, medium-bodied Cab,
with a smooth texture and chocolate and cedar
accents on the finish. Ready to drink now, but it
should hold for at least another few years. Imported
by Barterhouse. —J.C.
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Château Calissanne 2006 Coteaux
d’Aix en Provence; $14. Richly fruity
upfront, showing its 50% Grenache component
most clearly in its big black-cherry fruit. The rest of
the blend is 35% Syrah and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, which add spicy, savory notes and a touch of
cassis on the finish. Imported by Petit Pois. —J.C.
87
Château de L’Aumerade 2006 Dame
de Piegros (Côtes de Provence); $NA.
This blend of 80% Syrah and 20% Grenache
spends 12 months aging in oak prior to release and
that influence shows on the midpalate, where the
tannins are soft and smoothed out, almost creamy
in texture. Leather, spice and meaty notes accent
blackberry fruit. Drink now–2012. Imported by
North American Beverage Group. —J.C.
87
Château des Annibals 2006 FesseMathieux (Coteaux Varois); $17. Spicy
87
Château des Annibals 2004 Cuvée La
Ribote (Coteaux Varois); $13. This
and leathery on the nose, but there’s also ripe black
cherry fruit. This medium-bodied blend of Syrah
(60%), Grenache (30%) and Cabernet Sauvignon
(10%) is dry and crisply tannic, with hints of pepper
on the finish. Try in 2010. Imported by Bourgeois
Family Selections. —J.C.
offering from des Annibals spends two years in oak,
losing some of the varietal characters shown in the
estate’s other cuvées, but gaining roundness and
suppleness. Vanilla, tobacco and spice have taken
the edges off the black cherry fruit. Drinkable
now–2014. Imported by Bourgeois Family Selections. —J.C.
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Château Miraval 2004 Côtes de
Provence; $NA. This blend of 80% Syrah
87
Château Minuty 2005 Cuvée Prestige
M (Côtes de Provence); $28. As the
and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon reveals plenty of
blackberry and plum fruit, carried along by a fullbodied, somewhat tannic mouthfeel. Finishes with
soft tannins, making it approachable in the near
term. Imported by Matt Brothers. —J.C.
AOC regulations don’t permit moncépage wines,
this wine is coded with M for Mourvèdre, which
accounts for 90% of the blend. Aged in one-third
new oak, it boasts smoke, plum and blackberry fruit
along with hints of game and cola. There’s lots of
flavor intensity but also plenty of tannin, making it a
bit firm on the finish right now; try in 2010.
Imported by Romano Brands. —J.C.
87
Château Revelette 2005 Coteaux
d’Aix en Provence; $16. A blend of
87
Château Routas 2005 Cyrano (Vin de
Pays Var); $18. This 100% Syrah is a bit
Syrah, Grenache and Cabernet Sauvignon, this
unwooded red features warm, spicy aromas and flavors of dark fruit, cinnamon, clove and hints of
black pepper. Dry and savory on the finish.
Imported by Petit Pois. —J.C.
tough and chewy on the finish, but also has lots of
black-cherry fruit upfront and a suave, mediumbodied mouthfeel. Imported by Routas USA. —J.C.
87
C h â t e a u Ro u t a s 2 0 0 4 I n f e r n e t
Grenache-Syrah(Coteaux Varois);
87
Mas de la Dame 2006 La Gourmande
(Les Baux de Provence); $15. This
86
Louis Fabre (Côtes de Provence); $NA.
86
C h â t e a u Ro u t a s 2 0 0 5 I n f e r n e t
(Coteaux Varois); $13. Not quite up to
86
Carolle (Côtes de Provence); $17.
$12. Herbes de Provence and black cherries mark
the nose of this well-priced blend. The 50%
Grenache, 30% Syrah and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon have integrated well, leaving ripe, plummy
fruit accented by hints of spice and leather. Shows
just a touch of warmth on the long finish, making
this a good value. Imported by Routas USA. Best
Buy. —J.C.
blend of Grenache and Syrah is Mas de la Dame’s
entry-level red, and it’s a nice way to start. Ripe
black cherry aromas and touches of spice greet the
nose, adding plum and licorice flavors on the palate.
There’s plenty of heft, but the tannins are soft, making this approachable now. Imported by Palm Bay
This cuvée stands in firm contrast to the winery’s
more feminine-styled Dame de Piegros, showing
the meaty, gamy side of Syrah, powerful spice and
blackberry fruit and lashings of vanilla. Ends with
firm acids and gripping tannins. This needs 3–4
years of cellaring. Imported by North American
Beverage Group. —J.C.
the quality of the 2004, but this is still an authoritatively flavored Provençal blend. Black cherry and
spice flavors show some gripping tannins on the finish; hold another year, then drink through 2012.
Imported by Routas USA. —J.C.
Roughly one-fourth each Cabernet, Syrah,
Grenache and Mourvèdre, this blend shows a touch
of volatility on the nose, to go with dark fruit and
spice aromas. It’s a big, warm wine, with some tough
tannins on the finish. Try in 2010, or pair it with
rare meats. Imported by Vintage Trading Inc.
—J.C.
86
Jules 2006 Côtes de Provence; $19. A
blend of Grenache, Carignan and Mourvèdre, this is a driven by its bright black cherry flavors,
although there are enough spicy, savory notes to
add complexity. It’s medium-bodied, with crisp
acids and firm tannins, making it a candidate to
match with rare beef or lamb. Imported by Barterhouse. —J.C.
86
Mas de la Dame 2003 La Stèle Rouge
(Les Baux de Provence); $24. This is a
robust, dense wine, showing the hot character of
the vintage in its aromas and flavors of fruitcake and
spice and slightly rough texture. It’s a blend of 60%
Syrah and 40% Cabernet, matured in one-third new
oak. Imported by Palm Bay International. —J.C.
85
Provence; $NA. Not as impressive as
Galoupet’s white or rosé, this blend of Syrah (60%),
Grenache (20%) and Mourvèdre (20%) shows a
strong earthy, minerally component garnished with
bits of cedar and spice. There’s some plummy fruit
carried by soft tannins and moderate palate weight,
but the earthy notes are dominant, ending on hints
of game. Imported by Jerome Selection. —J.C.
84
Château des Annibals 2005 FesseMathieux (Coteaux Varois); $17.
Aromas of dried cloves and adhesive bandages will
be a bit offputting to some tasters, but the bones of
this wine are solid, offering supple tannins and
blackberry, hickory and black cherry flavors. Turns
a touch metallic on the finish. The 2006 seems
much cleaner. Imported by Bourgeois Family
Selections. —J.C.
WHITE WINES
90
Domaine d’Eole 2006 Confidence
(Vin de Pays des Alpilles); $25. Bar-
rel-fermented Roussanne isn’t what you’d expect
from Provence, but this is an excellent wine, offering subtle smoke and toasted hazelnut aromas to
go with white peach fruit. It boasts honeyed richness, plenty of weight and a long, cinnamon-infused
finish. Imported by Vinifrance. —J.C.
89
Varois; $27. This wine is entirely barrel-
fermented and aged, and it shows in its toasty,
smoky aromas and rich texture. Touches of honey,
peach and melon testify to the ripeness of the fruit,
which is 90% Rolle, 10% Ugni Blanc. Despite the
wine’s richness, it retains its focus, picking up a bit
of chalky minerality on the finish. Imported by
Bradley Alan Imports LLC. —J.C.
89
Château Revelette 2005 Le Grand
Blanc (Vin de Pays des Bouches du
Rhône); $32. This 100% Chard is nothing like
W I N E S
Burgundy, but it’s still really good, marrying clove
and allspice aromas with white peach and mineral
notes and a hint of honey that seems to intensify on
the finish. Drink now. Imported by Petit Pois.
—J.C.
89
Provence); $22. A nice example of 100% Rolle
(Vermentino), this boasts plenty of melon and pink
grapefruit aromas and flavors, marrying roundness
and ripeness with freshness and focus. A touch of
almost chalky mineraility comes in on the finish.
Imported by Frank Johnson Selections. —J.C.
89
2006 Réserve Delphine (Côtes de
Provence); $27. Made entirely from Rolle, with a
portion fermented in 300-liter demimuids, this
slightly oily, honeyed wine features hints of toast,
almond and anise to go with ripe stone fruit and
grapefruit flavors. Long on the finish. Imported by
Frank Johnson Selections. —J.C.
88
Clos Saint-Joseph 2005 Villars-surVar Blanc de Blancs (Côtes de
Provence); $42. Mainly Rolle, this is a plump,
melon- and peach-scented white that also features
hints of almond and licorice. The fruit is almost
honeyed at times, yet still retains a sense of freshness, with some chalky minerality on the finish.
Imported by Blue Coast International. —J.C.
88
Domaine d’Eole 2007 Vin de Pays des
Alpilles; $17. Made from Roussanne,
this is a very good example of the variety. It delivers
floral and pineapple aromas, featuring plenty of
weight on the palate without seeming heavy.
There’s lots of tropical fruit flavor, but that’s balanced by a sense of minerality and freshness on the
finish. Imported by Vinifrance. —J.C.
88
Mas de la Dame 2007 La Stèle Blanc
Despite showing plenty of richness on the palate,
this blend of 80% Rolle and 20% Clairette also
shows ample freshness and acidity. Apricot, almond
and melon flavors are broad yet focused, folding in
citrusy notes on the long finish. Imported by Palm
Bay International. —J.C.
87
Château Calissanne 2006 Clos Victoire (Coteaux d’Aix en Provence);
$36. A blend of 70% Clairette, 15% Sémillon and
15% Rolle, this is a slightly nutty, almondy white
with touches of honeyed richness and apricot.
R E V I E W E D
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Turns a bit astringent on the finish. Imported by
Petit Pois. —J.C.
87
Provence; $NA. This is a very fresh and
87
Château Miraval 2005 Coteaux
Varois; $NA. Even 2 1/2 years after the
87
Château Revelette 2006 Coteaux
d’Aix en Provence; $16. This intriguing
87
Château Routas 2006 Coquelicot
Viognier (Vin de Pays Var); $18.
87
Mas de la Dame 2005 Coin Caché
Blanc (Coteaux d’Aix en Provence);
crisp blend of Rolle (70%) and Sémillon (30%). Citrusy aromas and flavors dominate, ending on notes
of tangerine and grapefruit. Imported by Jerome
Selection. —J.C.
vintage, this is fresh and citrusy, easily balancing its
heft and broad pear and pineapple flavors. Hints of
pine resin and lemon give it just enough complexity.
Drink now. Imported by Matt Brothers. —J.C.
white blends 65% Ugni Blanc, 25% Rolle (Vermentino) and 15% Sauvignon Blanc into a ripe,
honeyed wine—a product of the warm vintage. Yet
despite the ripeness and bold orange flavors, it
remains dry, even showing some minerality on the
finish. Imported by Petit Pois. —J.C.
Rather broad in the mouth without being particularly weighty or rich, with restrained aromatics of
apricot and spice and flavors of melon, apricot and
pepper. Drink now; the 2007 tasted out of tank
looks significantly more interesting. Imported by
Routas USA. —J.C.
$34. The bulk of this luxury-cuvée white is fermented in new oak, and the barrel influence is
obvious: toasty and nutty aromas and flavors dominate, although hints of melon, fig and orange provide body and nuance. It’s a big, mouthfilling white,
lusty and a bit warm on the finish. Imported by
Palm Bay International. —J.C.
87
Saint André de Figuière 2007 Valerie
(Côtes de Provence); $16. This is a light,
86
Château de Bellet 2006 Cuvée Baron
G. (Bellet); $62. From a tiny estate in a
slightly herbal blend of one-third each Rolle, Sémillon and Ugni Blanc. Very fresh and minerally, it
would make a refreshing summer apéritif. Imported
tiny appellation, this is a rather austere example of
Rolle (90%), with 10% Chardonnay as well. It’s
2 0 0 8
I S S U E E
unusually crisp for a Provençal white, with crisp
lime edges to the apple-scented fruit. Drink now.
Imported by Blue Coast International. —J.C.
86
de Provence; $NA. Starts off with hints
of almonds and acacia blossoms, but this blend of
Rolle and Ugni Blanc comes across as largely neutral on the palate. It’s a fresh, slightly briny white
made to partner seafood. Imported by Wine Agencies Inc. —J.C.
85
Château des Annibals 2007 La Jouvencelle (Coteaux Varois); $23. This
blend of 90% Rolle and 10% Ugni Blanc was a bit
tight and hard-edged when tasted, but should be
opening up by this summer. It’s tropically fruity, even
showing a hint of banana to go with pineapple fruit.
Imported by Bourgeois Family Selections. —J.C.
84
Sully (Côtes de Provence); $NA.
Mainly (95%) Rolle, with a touch of Ugni Blanc,
this is a plump, medium-bodied wine with modest
mineral and pink grapefruit elements. Shows a
touch of warmth on the finish. Drink now.
Imported by North American Beverage Group.
—J.C.
RED BLENDS
Mouchão 2002 Red Wine (Alentejano); $46. The legendary Mouchão, one
of Portugal’s most revered wines, has finally made it
to this country. Made in traditional open stone fermenters, this is not a modern wine. It’s a wine,
whose dark tannins and dense fruits demand attention and time. At this stage—six years in—it
remains a baby, but in another five years, it will start
to be a great wine, one that will show a hedonistic
mix of power and beauty. Imported by Vinum Wine
Importing and Distributing LLC. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
94
93
CARM 2004 Quinta do Côa Reserva
Red Wine (Douro); $23. From vineyards
in one of the most remote regions of the Douro,
this wine speaks of rugged vineyards that give an
austerity and structure to what is a dense power.
The black fruits are almost impenetrable at this
young stage, with firm, very dry tannins that dominate. Give it five years at least, probably 10.
Imported by Grape Moments. Cellar Selection.
—R.V.
93
Quinta do Noval 2004 Red Wine
(Douro); $95. This is the equivalent of
92
Casa de Santar 2004 Conde de Santar
(Dão); $80. In tribute to the first count of
the top wine, or grand vin. It is certainly impressive,
and probably needs at least 10 years aging. The
dense tannins are powerful, while the plum jam
fruits are superripe, yet certainly keeping in balance. A great, ripe wine. Imported by Vintus LLC.
Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
Santar, who created the present estate in the 19th
century, this is a vineyard selection wine that shows
a mineral elegance, powered by wood and firmly
based on structured tannins and fresh berry fruits.
It is always going to be an austere wine, but it also
suggests good aging potential. Imported by Signature Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
PORTUGAL
RED WINES
95
herbal element and precise acidity acting as a
check, while the fruits gain in opulence in the
mouth. Age for 10 years. Imported by W.J. Deutsch
& Sons. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
Quinta do Vale Meão 2005 Red Wine
(Douro); $84. The quinta of Vale Meão,
Dona Antonia Ferreira’s last creation in the 19th
century is one of the Douro’s great vineyards. This
is a wine that needs many years of aging, its tannins
dominating what is also intense black, dense fruit. It
is certainly powerful, but not out of balance, with an
92
Casa de Santar 2004 Reserva (Dão);
$28. A deep, concentrated, impressive
wine that works on many levels. There are the blackberry fruits, almost jammy, that are enhanced by the
tobacco and new wood flavors. Then there is the
strong, underlying dryness that promises considerable aging. And there is the elegance. A smooth wine
whose tannins work around the core of structure and
style. Imported by Signature Imports. —R.V.
92
Ramos-Pinto 2005 Collection (Douro);
$NA. This powerful wine relies on flavors
that go right to the core of impressive tannins and
ripe black plums. The structure is dense, the fruit
dry but still laced with spice and sweetness. A wine
that needs many years of aging. Imported by
Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
91
CARM 2004 Grande Reserva (Douro);
$40. Possibly draws too much attention to
its densely packed and almost impenetrable black
fruits. Its fine tannins, light herbal and bright red
berries are a good counterpoint. Give it four years,
maybe more. Imported by Grape Moments. —R.V.
91
CARM 2005 Reserva (Douro); $23. A
fine, ripe wine, very elegant, with its red
plum and berry fruits rounded out with smooth
wood flavors. The tannins, obviously here, are in a
supporting role to this delicious fruit. And the aftertaste is long, rounded and soft. Imported by Grape
Moments. —R.V.
91
Churchill Graham 2005 Quinta da
Gricha (Douro); $50. Port producer
91
Cortes de Cima 2004 Reserva (Alentejano); $NA. This is the star of the
91
Dao Sul 2004 Quinta das Tecedeiras
Reserva (Douro); $29. Smoke and
91
Pinalta 2005 Red Wine (Douro); $22.
91
Quinta do Por tal 2005 Colheita
(Douro); $16. Dry berried, darkly tannic
Churchill owns this quinta, and makes both table
wine and Port. It’s a big success, its rich soft fruits,
flavored with prunes and sultanas as well as vivid
dark plums, are held together well by the concentrated dry tannins, and finished with fresh acidity.
Give this wine five years. Imported by Frederick
Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
Cortes de Cima range, a powerful expression of
rich fruit, but one tempered with a sympathetic,
attractive structure, packed with black berry and
ripe plum skin flavors, leaving plenty of tannins, but
still finished with acidity and balance. Imported by
Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V.
tobacco aromas are immediately attractive, and
with the delicious, but dry structure, here is a wine
that shows both great potential and great elegance.
There is power, as witnessed by the alcohol, but it is
relatively muted, the berry fruits showing through
the tannins, and then the acidity and velvet wood
flavors finishing. Imported by Aidil Wines & Liquor
Inc. —R.V.
Fermented in an open stone lagar, this full
wine suggests similarities with Port in its weighty
richness and dusty, dense tannins that float through
the licorice and chocolate flavors. Great concentration and great potential. Imported by Far Fetched
Spirits LLC. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
wine, packed with firm, intense currant flavors that
are shaped by acidity. It is a very structured wine, a
powerhouse of explosive fruits and firm tannins. Very
impressive. Imported by M Imports, LLC. —R.V.
91
Ramos-Pinto 2005 Duas Quintas
Reserva (Douro); $33. The dusty tan-
nins, dry as they are, seduce the palate, while the
intense fruit flavors round out a wine that is filled
with warm plum and licorice flavors, a touch of coffee beans and lively, vibrant, fresh acidity. Imported
by Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V.
90
Dao Sul 2004 Quinta do Gradil
(Estremadura); $12. A smooth, tobacco-
flavored wine, rich and densely satisfying. The polish of new French oak glides over the finely
structured herb and red fruit-flavored wine, leaving
freshness as well as a fine balance. Imported by
Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. Best Buy.—R.V.
90
Dona Maria 2004 Red Wine (Alentejano); $17. The wine is named after a
courtesan who received the quinta in Estremoz
from King João V. But it is anything but flighty. The
blend, which includes Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, gives hugely dense fruit, with pleasurable
freshness over the black jam and herbal flavors. The
balance is there in the fresh, refreshing aftertaste.
Imported by Grape Moments. —R.V.
90
Pinalta 2004 Red Wine (Douro); $22.
Big, ripe berries and currants and tense
acidity; this is a wine in mid-development, the
youthful richness worn off, the impressive maturity
still to come. The tannins are dry, rough-edged, the
fruit full of stalky berry character. Give it at least
five years. Imported by Far Fetched Spirits LLC.
—R.V.
90
Quinta do Noval 2004 Cedro do
Noval (Douro); $21. The first vintage of
table wines from Quinta do Noval has resulted in
two wines in the style of Bordeaux chateau. This
wine is the equivalent of the estate’s second wine. It
is initially herbal, medicinal almost, but the fruit
bursts out with intense black flavors and freshness,
with an intensity that promises well over the next
4–5 years. Imported by Vintus LLC. —R.V.
WineEnthusiast.com/mag
W I N E S
90
Quinta do Por tal 2005 Reserva
(Douro); $22. Huge, darkly tannic wine,
very dry with bitter chocolate and licorice flavors.
The black, brooding fruit powers through the layers
of tannins, finishing with blackberry acidity. The
concentration is palpable, the finish still running on
all cylinders. Imported by M Imports, LLC. —R.V.
90
Quinta do Vale Meão 2005 Meandro
do Vale Meão (Douro); $25. The sec-
ond wine from the famous Vale Meão quinta, Meandro’s name is a play on the bends of the river Douro,
which surrounds the property. It’s a finely perfumed
wine, layered with dark tannins, with licorice and
black plum flavors, topped by some smoky wood.
Imported by W.J. Deutsch & Sons. —R.V.
90
Ramos-Pinto 2004 Duas Quintas
Reserva (Douro); $33. Tightly coiled, the
firm tannins hold down the exuberant berry fruits
and fresh acidity. It is certainly young, but the elegance is already here, as well as the herb and spice
seasoning from wood. The dry aftertaste reinforces
the need for aging, at least 4–5 years. Imported by
Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V.
89
Casa de Santar 2004 Red Wine (Dão);
$17. Somewhat tough initially, with the
89
Mouchão 2005 Dom Rafael (Alentejo); $15. Foot-trodden like all the
Mouchão estate wines, this is a concentrated blockbuster that manages to preserve some elegance in
the middle of all this power. It’s relatively accessible,
fruity and rich, touched with sweet chocolate.
Imported by Vinum Wine Importing and Distributing LLC. —R.V.
89
Quinta do Por tal 2004 Reserva
(Douro); $22. A huge, smooth wine, full
of superripe fruit that is intensely mouth-filling.
The structure is submerged by all this black fruit.
It’s supremely rich, kept in balance by the acidity.
Imported by M Imports, LLC. —R.V.
89
Quinta do Vallado 2005 Reserva
(Douro); $NA. From old vines, this is a
densely concentrated wine that rejoices in its ripe
fruit but keeps freshness and fine, dry tannins. The
dark plum flavors go well with the smooth, herbal
finish, and the lift of acidity. Imported by Michael
Skurnik Wines. —R.V.
89
Quinta do Vallado 2005 Vinhas Velhas (Douro); $NA. From a parcel of old
tannins coming before the fruit, and a distinctly
lean character. But this is deceptive, because there
is certainly enough fruit there to give richness after
two years’ aging, when the blackberry and licorice
flavors will come up through all that dryness.
Imported by Signature Imports. —R.V.
vines, this is a blockbuster of a wine, overwhelming
89
—R.V.
Cortes de Cima 2005 Incógnito (Alentejano); $NA. A wine that has become
something of a cult in Portugal, perhaps because of
its mystery name (referring to a time when Syrah
was not permitted in Portugal). This 2005 keeps
the open, ripe blackberry jam fruit, with dark
chocolate and herbal flavors. It has a generous,
earthy character. Imported by Tri-Vin Imports.
—R.V.
89
Dona Maria 2004 Amantis (Alentejano); $27. This rare blend of Cabernet,
Syrah, Petit Verdot and Touriga Nacional works
surprisingly well, emphasizing tannic structure
rather than fruit. The acidity of the Cab is what
keeps it from being heavy, while the dense color
and herbal flavors show its southern warmth and
richness. Dried plums and fresh acidity to finish.
R E V I E W E D
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in its concentration. The richness of the fruit is initially almost shocking. But then it is possible to see
that there is a structure, and, just, some fresh acidity.
But this is not a wine for the fainthearted ; needs 5
years aging. Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines.
88
CARM 2005 Quinta do Côa (Douro);
$16. Initially austere, with strong mineral
character, this opens up to give bramble fruits,
dense tannins and firm structure. The fruit does
show some juicy freshness, but the tannins are the
key here to a wine that needs 3–4 years aging.
88
Dao Sul 2005 Grilos (Dão); $11. A
burly, rough-hewn wine that has been
slightly tamed by the use of French oak aging. But
it remains a dense wine, packed with dry tannins,
spice and herbs, and some juicy black plum flavors.
The finish is dry, very firm, and the wine needs at
least five years. Imported by Aidil Wines & Liquor
Inc. Best Buy.—R.V.
2 0 0 8
I S S U E E
88
Dona Maria 2004 Reserva (Alentejano); $40. Hugely dense, this wine
offers power. The fruit is sweet and superripe; the
tannins are soft along with the creamy coffee flavor.
Very intense in flavor, missing out on balance.
88
J. Portugal Ramos 2007 Marquês de
Borba (Alentejo); $15. A deeply colored
wine, reveling in the richness of 2007, a powerhouse
of berry fruits, black plums and a layer of soft wood
tannins. It certainly has plenty of ripe fruit, but the
smoothness of the wine is the key here, a chocolate
smoothness that wraps around the powerful fruit.
Imported by Signature Imports. —R.V.
88
Quinta da Alorna 2005 Red Wine
(Ribatejano); $NA. Still very young, so
while there is structure, some dry tannins and hints
of berry fruits, at the moment it is unfocused, needing several years. Expect then a wine that has elegance rather than power, and considerable
structure. Imported by Grape Moments. —R.V.
87
CARM 2005 Red Wine (Douro); $16.
Bitter cherry flavors dominate this fresh
wine, which shows a lightness of touch. The fruit is
the focus, with the wood aging really just supporting
the freshness of the flavors and only hinting at finishing dryness. There’s some licorice and bitter
chocolate to finish. Imported by Grape Moments.
—R.V.
87
C a s t e l l o d ’ A l b a 2 0 0 5 Re s e r va
(Douro); $14. Very dry, with tannins that
coat the mouth, this is a wine that is on the lean
side. Yes, the juicy berry fruits are here, as is the
intense acidity, but there is also a green element
which cuts through the wood and spice. Imported
by Grape Moments. —R.V.
87
Castello d’Alba 2005 Unoaked
(Douro); $13. The name of the wine says
it all. It relies on the spice and black plum flavors of
the fruit and it works as an early-drinking, fresh
wine. The tannins are dry, and boast of their hot climate, but the acidity cuts through. Imported by
Grape Moments. —R.V.
87
Cortes de Cima 2005 Red Wine (Alentejano); $NA. The estate wine of Corte
de Cima is rich, soft, smooth. The fruit feels
weighty, and misses out on freshness. But the opulent, jammy black fruit flavors and the soft spices
are certainly attractive. Imported by Tri-Vin
Imports. —R.V.
86
Castello d’Alba 2005 Colheita
(Douro); $10. A mineral, dry wine, rela-
tively light but still packing plenty of firm red fruits,
solid tannins and a dry core. It could age for 2–3
years; with its fresh aftertaste, this is already a great
food wine. Imported by Grape Moments. Best
Buy.—R.V.
86
Falua 2007 Conde de Vimioso (Ribatejano); $9. Soft, dusty-textured wine
that shows blackberry and black currant fruit flavors, along with a dry, firm core of tannins. The
edge initially shows some bitterness, but then the
wood comes through. Drink now or until 2010.
Imported by Vinum Wine Importing and Distributing LLC. Best Buy.—R.V.
85
tive without aging. Imported by Saraiva Enterprises. —R.V.
PORTUGAL
WHITE WINES
BLENDED WINES
90
CARM 2006 Quinta do Côa (Douro);
$16. A lively, fresh wine, whose wood
aging has just enhanced the delicious fruit flavors of
mango and pineapple. The acidity bounces up and
down, vibrant and crisp. Considering its origin in
J. Portugal Ramos 2007 Loios (Alentejano); $NA. A new branded wine from
one of the Alentejo’s star producers, this red is ripe,
fresh, full of red berry fruits, and a good ripe earthiness from fruit tannins. No sign of wood here, just
ripe, rich fruit. Imported by Winebow. —R.V.
84
just a touch of dryness make it immediately attrac-
DFJ Vinhos 2005 Segada (Ribatejano); $10. Young and fruity, a wine that
has developed freshness at the same time as it has
found juicy cranberry flavors. Ready to drink now.
Imported by Lemac Group LLC. —R.V.
one of the hottest regions of the Douro, this is
impressive. Imported by Grape Moments. Editors’
Choice. —R.V.
90
Dao Sul 2006 Quinta do Gradil
(Estremadura); 11. A blend of Antão Vaz
and Chardonnay, two grapes that are similar in style
and lend themselves to wood aging. The spice from
the wood is very apparent, but then so is the
creamy richness of the white fruit flavors and the
richness of the blend. Give it 2–3 years and it will
be excellent. Imported by Aidil Wines & Liquor
OTHER RED WINES
88
Dao Sul 2004 Quinta do Encontro
Preto Branco (Bairrada); $14. The
name means black and white, but this wine, dominated by the local Baga grape, has more to do with
black, structured, austerely dense fruit. In its dryness, it is typical of the region, a style that gives
acidity and thyme flavors. Very dry aftertaste, great
to cut rich food. Imported by Aidil Wines & Liquor
Inc. —R.V.
87
Inc. Best Buy.—R.V.
89
CARM 2006 Branco Reserva (Douro);
$18. Soft and ripe, spiced up by new
wood, this is a big, rounded, shapely wine. Tropical
fruits are here, along with pear skins and some
creaminess. A great food wine. Imported by Grape
Moments. —R.V.
89
Casa de Santar 2006 Reserva (Dão);
$28. Ripe, soft wine that has good dense
fruit flavors as well as richness. There is some new
Cor tes de Cima 2005 Aragonez
(Alentejano); $NA. Ripe, smooth, just
wood, but the wine remains elusive, perhaps still
veering toward rustic, but also showing a fine balance of tannins and sweet fruit. It is certainly rich,
while the spicy character, with the dried fruits, is
generous. The acidity is understated. Imported by
Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V.
nant, with only the acidity hinting at the fruit.
87
DFJ Vinhos 2004 Grand’Arte Merlot
(Estremadura); $16. Light, perfumed
and delicate, this is an interesting manifestation of
Merlot, showing its fresh, fruity side rather than
any big structure. Red berries, a velvet texture and
young. On the palate, the wood spice is still domiImported by Signature Imports. —R.V.
89
Castello d’Alba 2006 Vinhas Velhas
(Douro); $18. Lively and crisp, this has
some good concentration and almond and creamy
flavors over new wood. It shows ripe fruit, but there
is also a zesty lemon character that gives it a lift and
vibrancy. Deliciously refreshing. Imported by
89
Dona Maria 2006 White Wine (Alentejano); $16. The use of the high quality
Antão Vaz grape gives this wine considerable perfumed style and creamy white fruit flavors to go
with the acidity and the clean intensity. Well balanced, the aftertaste is fresh but rich. Imported by
89
Quinta do Vallado 2005 Sousão
Sousão (Douro); $NA. The Sousão is
one of the also-rans in Port terms, but here it shows
great style and freshness, lifted by its dark tannins
and solid fruit structure. A finely balanced wine that
offers a touch of juicy red fruits, but also clear, ripe
spice. Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V.
88
Cortes de Cima 2005 Syrah (Alentejano); $NA. Packed with soft, jammy
fruit and dark cherry flavors, this is a spicy, fullbodied wine that offers generous structure, touches
of spice, perfume and a strong herbal character.
The aftertaste is soft, open, almost sweet. Imported
by Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V.
87
CARM 2006 White Wine (Douro); $16.
Crisp, fresh, unoaked wine, with green
plum and red apple flavors. It’s lively, smooth and
creamy, with delicious finishing acidity. Imported
by Grape Moments. —R.V.
87
Casa de Vila Verde 2007 White Wine
(Vinho Verde); $10. A delicious floral
wine, ideal for summer drinking; there are aromas
of green meadows and flavors of crisp grapefruit
ripened with apricot. There’s a great dry aftertaste.
Imported by Signature Imports. Best Buy.—R.V.
87
C a s t e l l o d ’ A l b a 2 0 0 6 Re s e r va
(Douro); $14. There is fine crispness that
goes along with strong citrus and spice flavors, and
a touch of butteriness. There is also an intriguing
edge of pears, lifted by a razor sharp aftertaste.
87
Companhia das Quintas 2006 Quinta
do Cardo (Beira Interior); $10. Full,
highly perfumed wine, with peanut and tangerine
flavors that work well with the fresh acidity and citrus crispness. There is a good structure from the
whole berry pressing that gives shape to the wine.
W I N E S
Imported by Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. Best
Buy.—R.V.
87
J. Portugal Ramos 2006 Marquês de
Borba (Alentejo); $12. Named after
local nobility in the city of Borba, this is a popular
brand in Portugal. In its white manifestation, the
wine is soft, very clean, with pear and cinnamon
flavors, the texture just moving toward fat, but
working well as a food wine. Imported by Signature
Imports. —R.V.
87
Quinta do Vallado 2006 Reserva
(Douro); $NA. With a strong element of
86
J. Portugal Ramos 2007 Marques de
Borba (Alentejo); $12. Fruity, full-bod-
new wood, this has pear flavors, and feels very
round and soft. The acidity is there, but subordinate to the ripe, full fruit and the gently rounded
structure. Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines.
—R.V.
ied wine, with tropical fruits, pear and sweet orange
flavors. The acidity is just right, but richness is
where this is going. Imported by Aidil Wines &
Liquor Inc. —R.V.
86
Quinta de Ventozelo 2007 Cister da
Ribeira (Douro); $11. Ripe, fruity wine
85
Casa de Santar 2005 Condessa de
Santar (Dão); $32. With its big, fat
with quince and pineapple flavors, layered through
with apple skin tannins. It could do with six months
aging, but it will certainly be ready to drink by the
fall. Imported by Supreme Wines & Spirits.Best
Buy. —R.V.
mouthfeel, but very little fruit to back it up, at this
stage this wine seems to be about wood, spice and
richness without balance. The Reserva from the
property seems to have a better focus. Imported by
Signature Imports. —R.V.
85
J. Portugal Ramos 2007 Loios (Alentejano); $NA. The white wine in a new
duo of branded wines called Loios, this is a simple
citrus- and apple-flavored wine, relatively fat and
full, but leaving enough fresh acidity. Imported by
Winebow. —R.V.
OTHER WHITE WINES
92
Quinta do Ameal 2004 Escolha
Loureiro (Minho); $25. Made from the
aromatic, floral Loureiro grape, this is a fresh, crisp,
R E V I E W E D
I N
T H E
J U LY
lemon- and peach-flavored wine, with a fine structure of green plum skins. It is delicious wine now, all
vibrant fruit, but it could age for 2–3 years. Imported
by European Cellars. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
90
Quinta de Foz de Arouce 2006
Cerceal (Beiras); $50. A wood-aged
89
Quinta do Ameal 2006 Loureiro
(Vinho Verde); $16. A floral, fruity and
wine, showing beautifully restrained wood supporting lively, creamy apple- and pear-flavored fruits.
Very sophisticated. Ready to drink, but will age.
Imported by Winebow. —R.V.
intensely perfumed wine, yeasty, with mature acidity and almond flavors underlining the green lime
element. It is very dry, needing the extra year since
harvest to round it out and give it richness as well as
freshness. Imported by European Cellars. —R.V.
CALIFORNIA
RED WINES
CABERNETS & BLENDS
95
Rodney Strong 2004 Symmetry Meritage (Alexander Valley); $55. Strong’s
Symmetry almost qualifies as a Cabernet Sauvignon, with 71% of that variety, and the rest consisting of Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot. The
Meritage labeling identifies it as their supreme bottling of a Bordeaux-style wine. Easily the best Symmetry ever, it is a great wine. Dry and somewhat
astringent in tannins, it has an impressively deep
core of blackberries and currants, with an array of
sweet herbs, chocolate and tobacco. It’s delicious
now, and should slowly develop bottle complexities
over the next 10 years. —S.H.
94
Kendall-Jackson 2005 Highland
Estates Trace Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon (Knights Valley); $70. From a slope of
Mount St. Helena overlooking this small valley
appellation comes this very dense, young 100%
Cab. It’s an impressive wine, not only for the sheer
concentration of blackberry, currant and plum fruit
flavors, but for the plush mouthfeel, which has a
gorgeously soft quality. K-J’s winemakers really rock
in the science of tannin management. —S.H.
93
Estates Hawkeye Mountain Cabernet
Sauvignon (Alexander Valley); $55. One of the
riper of the Highland Estate’s current crop of
2 0 0 8
I S S U E E
Cabernets, the Hawkeye Mountain shows intense
varietal character. It’s rich in black currants and
cedar, with a tangy minerality and firm but pliant
tannins. A beautiful Cabernet, at its best now and
through 2015. —S.H.
93
Thomas Fogar ty 2003 Cabernet
Sauvignon (Santa Cruz Mountains);
$50. To begin with, it’s a very fine, well-structured
Cab, rich and vibrant in cassis and smoky oak flavors. It shows the deep integrity that the best Santa
Cruz Mountains Cabernets possess. However, it’s
quite tannic, which gives it a palate astringency. So,
will it age? Odds are strongly in favor of it. Best
2009–2015. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
92
Hawkes 2003 Red Winery Road
Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley); $60. The wine comes from the estate vine-
yard, in the northeast corner of the appellation near
Robert Young, whose Cabs and Bordeaux blends
are no slouches. This wine shows meticulous attention to detail, in both growing and winemaking.
Drily tannic, it has delicious blackberry, currant,
herb, Chinese tea and cedar flavors, and possesses
the balance to age for a decade. —S.H.
92
Rodney Strong 2004 Estate Vineyards
Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley); $25. A very nice Cabernet, with a rich vein of
tannins that gives it a crunchy texture, and forward
black currant, cherry, and plum flavors that are as
juicy as they come. Nearly 100% varietal Cab, it
feels upscale and plush in the mouth, and gets better as it warms in the glass. Fair price for a Cab
this good. —S.H.
92
Stonehouse 2004 Shultz Family Vineyards Legacy Cabernet Sauvignon (El
Dorado County); $38. An enormously attractive
wine, this low-production Cab hails from the winery’s 1,500-foot vineyard. It’s not at all heavy, but
has a lightly elegant mouthfeel, more like Pinot
Noir than Bordeaux. Yet the flavors are enormously
complex, suggesting wild blackberries and cherries,
with a savory dash of cassis, pepper, cloves and
cocoa. Standing in stark contrast to today’s modern
cult style of Cab, this one was born to drink with
food. —S.H.
91
Stuhlmuller Vineyards 2005 Cabernet
Sauvignon (Alexander Valley); $36.
Shows the soft acids, gentle tannins and herbaceousness that mark most Alexander Valley Cabs,
with supporting cherry, red currant and licorice flavors. It’s a complex wine, balanced and intriguing,
and a fine pairing for a very wide variety of foods.
Interestingly, indigenous, or wild, yeast was used
for fermentation. —S.H.
and blackberry flavors. But it’s those Alexander Valley
tannins, so soft and mellow, that mark it. Good now,
and should ride out the next eight years. —S.H.
90
87
Cass 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso
Robles); $42. Cass has been focusing on
Bordeaux reds in Paso Robles; their Cab Franc has
been very good, and this Cabernet Sauvignon is
better. It shows its warm origins in very ripe fruit
flavors of blackberries, currants and chocolate, but
the structure is enlivened with fine acidity and rich,
dusty tannins. Delicious and dry, it shows an elegance that makes it irresistable. —S.H.
90
Mount Eden 2004 Estate Bottled
Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa Cruz
Mountains); $42. Here’s one to put away for a
while. Even though the warm vintage coaxed out
oodles of black currants, blackberry and cherry pie
filling, red plum and dry, unsweetened chocolate
flavors, the wine has a tannic intensity that makes it
a bit astringent. But it’s balanced and well-structured, so cellar, and should be best 2009–2012.
—S.H.
89
Newsome-Harlow 2005 Meritage
(Calaveras County); $30. This is almost
the anti-Napa Bordeaux blend. It’s drier and edgier
than your typical North Coast Cab, and much less
tannic, with a sweet herb edge to the flavors of
cherries, red and black currant, plums, tangerine
zest, licorice and cloves. Try this polished wine with
anything calling for a medium-bodied red. —S.H.
89
Rodney Strong 2004 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County); $40.
Strong’s ’04 Reserve Cab comes down on the astringent, tannic side, the suggestion being that you
want to cellar this one while drinking the very fine,
approachable regular estate Cab. With its hearty
core of blackberries and currants, it should soften
and develop bottle complexities over the next 10
years. —S.H.
88
VJB 2004 V Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Valley); $46. Strong
87
Hawkes 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Alexander Valley); $40. This is dry and
and direct in licorice, cassis, cocoa and smoky cedar
flavors, the wine is balanced with adequate acids.
It’s also thoroughly dry, a good thing. Could use a
bit more polish in the tannic structure, which is on
the jagged side. Decant, or age for two or three
years. —S.H.
slightly herbal, with sage and dill notes to the cherry
Ironstone 2004 Reserve Cabernet
Sauvignon (Calaveras County); $24.
Good price for a Cab that provides much of the
richness of far costlier coastal bottlings. The tannins are a little uneven, but the wine offers a blast
of ripe, jammy blackberry, cherry and currant flavors that finish with a peppery scour. —S.H.
87
Kendall-Jackson 2005 Grand Reserve
Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma
County); $26. This silky, plush Cab, which con-
tains some Mendocino and Napa fruit, is ready to
drink now. Dry and tannic, it has chicory and sage
herb notes framing riper flavors of blackberries and
cherries. —S.H.
87
Mount Eden 2004 Saratoga Cuvée
Mountains); $28. This is sort of Mount Eden’s
junior Cab, and it’s pretty good, although a bit pricy.
It’s a full-bodied, dry, tannic wine, with good varietal flavors of black currants that are well-integrated
with smoky oak. Drink now. —S.H.
86
Charles Creek 2004 Las Pasiones
Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Valley);
86
Robert Hall 2005 Hall Ranch Meritage
(Paso Robles); $40. The hallmarks of
85
Black Box 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Paso Robles); $20/3L. Black Box’s 3-
85
French Hill 2006 Grand Reserve
Cabernet Sauvignon (Sierra Foothills);
$39. A bit herbal and earthy, with some green tannins, this 100% Cab was mostly grown in the Mayacamas Mountains overlooking Sonoma Valley. It’s
dry and soft, with suggestions of cherries, blackberries and currants. —S.H.
this blend of Cabs Sauvignon and Franc and other
Bordeaux varieties are a soft, gentle texture and
ripe, forward fruit. The cherries, currants, spicy
licorice and smoky oak flavors are wrapped into
firm, sweet tannins. —S.H.
liter Cab, in an attractive black box, costs the equivalent of $5 a bottle. Mainly from Paso Robles fruit,
it’s a little raw and rustic. But it has the qualities of
dryness and full-bodied fruitiness, and is a good buy
for an everyday, party-style wine. Best Buy. —S.H.
$32. Soft and powerful in fruity extraction, but
basically dry, this gentle Cab shows pie-filling fla-
vors of blackberries, with richer notes of cassis, dark
chocolate and anise. A rich scour of tannins will cut
through grilled beef. —S.H.
85
Merriam Vineyards 2004 Block 21
Cabernet Sauvignon (Dry Creek Valley); $35. Ripe, almost overripe, this Cab has red
and black currant and milk chocolate flavors that
are almost raisined, but not quite. The warm vintage has made the wine too soft. But it is delicious,
and the sticky tannins are pure pleasure. —S.H.
93
Estates Hawkeye Mountain Cabernet
Sauvignon (Alexander Valley); $55. One of the
riper of the Highland Estate’s current crop of
Cabernets, the Hawkeye Mountain shows intense
varietal character. It’s rich in black currants and
cedar, with a tangy minerality and firm but pliant
tannins. A beautiful Cabernet, at its best now and
through 2015. —S.H.
93
Thomas Fogar ty 2003 Cabernet
Sauvignon (Santa Cruz Mountains);
$50. To begin with, it’s a very fine, well-structured
Cab, rich and vibrant in cassis and smoky oak flavors. It shows the deep integrity that the best Santa
Cruz Mountains Cabernets possess. However, it’s
quite tannic, which gives it a palate astringency. So,
will it age? Odds are strongly in favor of it. Best
2009–2015. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
92
Hawkes 2003 Red Winery Road
Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley); $60. The wine comes from the estate vine-
yard, in the northeast corner of the appellation near
Robert Young, whose Cabs and Bordeaux blends
are no slouches. This wine shows meticulous attention to detail, in both growing and winemaking.
Drily tannic, it has delicious blackberry, currant,
herb, Chinese tea and cedar flavors, and possesses
the balance to age for a decade. —S.H.
92
Rodney Strong 2004 Estate Vineyards
Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley); $25. A very nice Cabernet, with a rich vein of
tannins that gives it a crunchy texture, and forward
black currant, cherry, and plum flavors that are as
juicy as they come. Nearly 100% varietal Cab, it
feels upscale and plush in the mouth, and gets bet-
W I N E S
ter as it warms in the glass. Fair price for a Cab
this good. —S.H.
92
Stonehouse 2004 Shultz Family Vineyards Legacy Cabernet Sauvignon (El
Dorado County); $38. An enormously attractive
wine, this low-production Cab hails from the winery’s 1,500-foot vineyard. It’s not at all heavy, but
has a lightly elegant mouthfeel, more like Pinot
Noir than Bordeaux. Yet the flavors are enormously
complex, suggesting wild blackberries and cherries,
with a savory dash of cassis, pepper, cloves and
cocoa. Standing in stark contrast to today’s modern
cult style of Cab, this one was born to drink with
food. —S.H.
91
Stuhlmuller Vineyards 2005 Cabernet
Sauvignon (Alexander Valley); $36.
Shows the soft acids, gentle tannins and herbaceousness that mark most Alexander Valley Cabs,
with supporting cherry, red currant and licorice flavors. It’s a complex wine, balanced and intriguing,
and a fine pairing for a very wide variety of foods.
Interestingly, indigenous, or wild, yeast was used
for fermentation. —S.H.
90
Cass 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso
Robles); $42. Cass has been focusing on
Bordeaux reds in Paso Robles; their Cab Franc has
been very good, and this Cabernet Sauvignon is
better. It shows its warm origins in very ripe fruit
flavors of blackberries, currants and chocolate, but
the structure is enlivened with fine acidity and rich,
dusty tannins. Delicious and dry, it shows an elegance that makes it irresistable. —S.H.
90
Mount Eden 2004 Estate Bottled
Mountains); $42. Here’s one to put away for a
while. Even though the warm vintage coaxed out
oodles of black currants, blackberry and cherry pie
filling, red plum and dry, unsweetened chocolate
flavors, the wine has a tannic intensity that makes it
a bit astringent. But it’s balanced and well-structured, so cellar, and should be best 2009–2012.
—S.H.
89
Newsome-Harlow 2005 Meritage
(Calaveras County); $30. This is almost
the anti-Napa Bordeaux blend. It’s drier and edgier
than your typical North Coast Cab, and much less
tannic, with a sweet herb edge to the flavors of
cherries, red and black currant, plums, tangerine
zest, licorice and cloves. Try this polished wine with
anything calling for a medium-bodied red. —S.H.
R E V I E W E D
I N
T H E
J U LY
89
Rodney Strong 2004 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County); $40.
88
VJB 2004 V Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Valley); $46. Strong
87
Hawkes 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Alexander Valley); $40. This is dry and
87
Ironstone 2004 Reserve Cabernet
Sauvignon (Calaveras County); $24.
Strong’s ’04 Reserve Cab comes down on the astringent, tannic side, the suggestion being that you
want to cellar this one while drinking the very fine,
approachable regular estate Cab. With its hearty
core of blackberries and currants, it should soften
and develop bottle complexities over the next 10
years. —S.H.
and direct in licorice, cassis, cocoa and smoky cedar
flavors, the wine is balanced with adequate acids.
It’s also thoroughly dry, a good thing. Could use a
bit more polish in the tannic structure, which is on
the jagged side. Decant, or age for two or three
years. —S.H.
slightly herbal, with sage and dill notes to the cherry
and blackberry flavors. But it’s those Alexander Valley
tannins, so soft and mellow, that mark it. Good now,
and should ride out the next eight years. —S.H.
Good price for a Cab that provides much of the
richness of far costlier coastal bottlings. The tannins are a little uneven, but the wine offers a blast
of ripe, jammy blackberry, cherry and currant flavors that finish with a peppery scour. —S.H.
87
Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma
County); $26. This silky, plush Cab, which contains some Mendocino and Napa fruit, is ready to
drink now. Dry and tannic, it has chicory and sage
herb notes framing riper flavors of blackberries and
cherries. —S.H.
87
Mount Eden 2004 Saratoga Cuvée
Mountains); $28. This is sort of Mount Eden’s
junior Cab, and it’s pretty good, although a bit pricy.
It’s a full-bodied, dry, tannic wine, with good varietal flavors of black currants that are well-integrated
with smoky oak. Drink now. —S.H.
86
Charles Creek 2004 Las Pasiones
Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Valley);
$39. A bit herbal and earthy, with some green tannins, this 100% Cab was mostly grown in the Mayacamas Mountains overlooking Sonoma Valley. It’s
2 0 0 8
I S S U E E
dry and soft, with suggestions of cherries, blackberries and currants. —S.H.
PINOT NOIR
86
96
Robert Hall 2005 Hall Ranch Meritage
(Paso Robles); $40. The hallmarks of
this blend of Cabs Sauvignon and Franc and other
Bordeaux varieties are a soft, gentle texture and
ripe, forward fruit. The cherries, currants, spicy
licorice and smoky oak flavors are wrapped into
firm, sweet tannins. —S.H.
85
Black Box 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Paso Robles); $20/3L. Black Box’s 3-
liter Cab, in an attractive black box, costs the equivalent of $5 a bottle. Mainly from Paso Robles fruit,
it’s a little raw and rustic. But it has the qualities of
dryness and full-bodied fruitiness, and is a good buy
for an everyday, party-style wine. Best Buy. —S.H.
85
French Hill 2006 Grand Reserve
Cabernet Sauvignon (Sierra Foothills);
$32. Soft and powerful in fruity extraction, but
basically dry, this gentle Cab shows pie-filling flavors of blackberries, with richer notes of cassis, dark
chocolate and anise. A rich scour of tannins will cut
through grilled beef. —S.H.
85
Merriam Vineyards 2004 Block 21
Cabernet Sauvignon (Dry Creek Valley); $35. Ripe, almost overripe, this Cab has red
and black currant and milk chocolate flavors that
are almost raisined, but not quite. The warm vintage has made the wine too soft. But it is delicious,
and the sticky tannins are pure pleasure. —S.H.
85
Roth 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Alexander Valley); $35. You can think
of this as a second label of Lancaster, the Cab producer whose estate vineyard the grapes come from.
It’s a pretty good Cab, strongly flavored and dry,
with brisk tannins and a streak of herbs. The currant flavors taste a little overripe and raisiny. —S.H.
85
Ty Caton 2004 Caton Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Valley); $42.
This is a pretty good Cab, as far as it goes. It tastes a
bit sharp, with very ripe blackberry and currant flavors that have a baked fruit quality. Doesn’t seem
like an ager, so drink now. —S.H.
Goldeneye 2005 Confluence Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley);
$75. The vineyard has been the source to some of
Goldeneye’s deepest, most profound wines, and the
’05 certainly is big and cellar-worthy. It’s somewhat
tannic, and very deep in black cherries and blackberries, with rich complexities of figs, dusty spices
and smoky oak. The power of this wine is considerable, yet it somehow retains the light silkiness of
great Pinot Noir. —S.H.
95
Gary Farrell 2005 Rochioli-Allen
Vineyards Pinot Noir (Russian River
Valley); $70. It’s amazing how rich this is, given
the pale, translucent ruby color. Waves of cherries,
raspberries, roasted hazelnuts, cola, pomegranates,
herb tea, dusty Asian spices and smoky oak change
constantly in the glass, as the wine breathes and
endlessly fascinates. Bone-dry and tartly crisp, the
wine will develop bottle complexities over the next
eight years. —S.H.
94
Gary Farrell 2005 Allen Vineyard
Hillside Blocks Pinot Noir (Russian
River Valley); $65. Dryness and acidity mark this
terrific wine. It’s one for connoisseurs, a Pinot that
requires some understanding to fully appreciate, as
it’s not a hedonistic seducer. The cherry and blackberry flavors have a fruit-skin bitterness, and there
are additional nuances of violets, cola, leather, balsam and smoky oak. This is certainly one for the
cellar. Drink now, with decanting, and over the next
eight years. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
94
Goldeneye 2005 Gowan Creek Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley);
dry, crisp wine of great complexity. The flavors of
cherries, licorice, Dr. Pepper, sweet Chinese tea
and bacon are delicious and compelling. —S.H.
93
Breggo 2006 Ferrington Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley); $55.
The ripest of Breggo’s ’06 Pinots, the Ferrington
stars red fruits, such as cherries, raspberries and
persimmons, mingling with intricate Asian spices
and a hint of mocha. Absolutely delicious, this silky,
complex wine is pure pleasure. —S.H.
93
Gary Farrell 2005 Starr Ridge Vineyard Dijon Clones Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley); $50. Farrell’s Starr Ridge
Dijon bottling is a fruity wine, bright and forward in
red and black cherry, black raspberry, licorice and
cola flavors, with smoky oak elaborations and a floral scent of violets. All that richness is balanced with
crisp acids and even a dusting of fine tannins. Brilliant and pure, this Pinot should provide fine drinking through the age of six years or more, depending
on how you like your older wines. —S.H.
92
Barnett 2006 Tina Marie Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley);
$40. The vineyard is in Green Valley, the coolest
part of the valley and one of the best for Pinot Noir.
It’s a classic, with crisp acidity framing laser-pure
cherry, Dr. Pepper, date and spice flavors that are
elaborated with rich new smoky oak. A beauty.
—S.H.
92
Goldeneye 2005 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley); $55. Winemaker Zach Ras-
muson did not produce a Narrows Vineyard
$75. This is a new single-vineyard bottling for Gold-
bottling in 2005. Instead, those grapes went into
eneye, grown in the cooler Deep End western part
of the valley. It’s a feral kind of Pinot. Not for it the
tame fruit of warmer climates. This one brims with
wild berries: cherries, raspberries, something animal and leathery, and mossy tastes of balsam and
tar. For all that explosion, the wine’s tannins and
acids keep it controlled and balanced, and it never
loses its silky lightness. Best now and for six years or
so. —S.H.
the regular Goldeneye, to its great benefit. The
93
Barnett 2006 Savoy Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Anderson Valley); $52. Barnett is
better known as a producer of very good Cabernet.
But their Chardonnays can be great, and so can
their Pinot Noirs. This single-vineyard bottling has
the elegance of the best Anderson Valley Pinots, a
wine is particularly rich and powerful in cherry pie
filling, black raspberry, mocha, Dr. Pepper and
smoky oak flavors, with a gorgeous, mouth-filling
texture that’s dramatic on the finish. —S.H.
92
Pinot Noir (Monterey County); $25.
Shows the polish and finesse of a wine costing far
more. Made from selected Monterey vineyards and
with considerable new French oak, the wine is
flashy and complex, with cherry, cola, pomegranate and spice flavors, and a rich earthiness that suggests sautéed mushrooms or truffles. Really notable
for its balance and depth. —S.H.
92
Marimar Estate 2005 Don Miguel
Vineyard Earthquake Block Pinot Noir
(Russian River Valley); $46. Reminiscent of the
2003, this low-production wine, which comes from
a block in the estate vineyard, is complex in flavor.
Cherries, currants, pomegranates and rhubarb vie
with earthier notes of tomatoes and herbs to craft a
wine that changes with each sip. The new oak gives
smoky wood accents. This well-structured wine
should age well for six years. —S.H.
91
Gary Farrell 2005 Hallberg Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley);
$50. The vineyard is relatively new, and the block
from which this wine was made is entirely Dijon
clone 777. It’s a rich, fruit-forward wine, brimming
with crushed cherry pulp and black raspberries, to
which charred oak barrels have lent richer notes of
mocha. The wine also is quite dry and acidic and
even tannic, in Farrell’s usual style. That should
lend it ageworthiness. —S.H.
91
Gary Farrell 2005 Starr Ridge Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley); $50. Here’s a very tight, young Pinot, one
you’ll want to put some bottle age on. It’s marked
by acids and oak flavors that have not yet been integrated into the underlying fruit. Give it through
2008, by which time the smoky wood and vanilla
should marry with the cherries and Dr. Pepper flavors to produce a rich, complex sipper. —S.H.
91
Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River
Valley); $42. Marimar’s Don Miguel Pinot Noir
typically starts out as a tannic, fairly closed young
wine that needs some bottle age. The ’05, from a
cool vintage, accentuates that tightness, offering a
slightly bitter wine housing cherry, currant, cola,
mocha and oak flavors. It’s very dry and complex,
and will easily age for many years. —S.H.
90
Gary Farrell 2005 Ramal Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Carneros); $50. The Ramal
Vineyard has been source to a fine series of Buena
Vista Pinot Noirs. Farrell has captured another
interpretation of its terroir, not quite as lush or ripe,
but firm in acid-inspired cherries and licorice, with
a subtle veneer of smoky oak. It’s a dry, crisp young
wine, well-structured, a good partner for upscale
fare such as lamb chops. —S.H.
90
Migration 2006 Pinot Noir (Anderson
Valley); $32. A lovely, polished wine, the
second label of Goldeneye. It doesn’t have the
impact of the main wines, but it does share in their
W I N E S
structural brilliance. Dry and silky, it has alluring
flavors of cherries, cola, mocha and spices. —S.H.
89
Gary Farrell 2005 Bien Nacido Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley);
$50. A good, rich, flavorful Pinot, not quite as firm
and complex as Farrell’s Northern California bottlings, but satisfying. Rich and supple, it offers
waves of cherries, black raspberries, cola, crushed
brown spices and smoky oak. Seems at its best now
and for a couple of years. —S.H.
89
Mount Eden 2005 Estate Bottled Pinot
Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains); $45. A
welcome return to form after the disappointing ’04,
Mount Eden’s ’05 shows refreshing acidity that
livens the palate, and makes the cherry, cola, red
currant and mocha flavors vibrant. Could develop
additional bottle complexities, but it’s so silky and
elegant, it’s probably at its best now and for a couple years. —S.H.
87
Fenestra 2005 Pinot Noir (Livermore
Valley); $24. You don’t think of Liver-
more Valley as Pinot territory, but this is a pretty
nice wine. It’s medium-bodied and silky, with pleasurable flavors of cherries, red currants, cola, vanilla
and smoke, and a long, sweetly spicy finish. —S.H.
87
Estates Seco Highlands Pinot Noir
(Arroyo Seco); $35. A little brittle in texture and
transparent in flavor, with cherry, cola, herb tea and
spice. Fine and clean, but tends toward lightness.
Call it elegant, and enjoy with roast salmon, grilled
lamb chops. —S.H.
87
MacMurray Ranch 2005 Pinot Noir
(Sonoma Coast); $24. Showing the brisk
87
Stephen’s 2005 Encell Vineyard Pinot
Noir (San Luis Obispo County); $30.
acidity of this cool coastal appellation, MacMurray’s
’05 Pinot is bright in red and black cherry, raspberry, cola, licorice, vanilla and smoky oak flavors.
The wine isn’t an ager, but it’s a rich, fairly complex
wine to drink now. Easy to find, with 25,000 cases
produced. —S.H.
Dark, soft and rich, this single-vineyard Pinot brims
with deep, almost brooding flavors of red currants,
cherries, red plums, mocha and dusty spices. It also
has an edge of tannins that will help it negotiate a
good steak. Drink over the next several years. —S.H.
86
MacMurray Ranch 2005 Pinot Noir
(Central Coast); $20. Although it’s a
R E V I E W E D
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fairly direct wine, this Pinot shows the Central
Coast character that makes this cool-climate region
so friendly to the variety. Translucent ruby in color,
dry and silky in texture, it has crisp flavors of cherries, cola, licorice and Asian spices. —S.H.
86
Mount Eden 2004 Estate Bottled Pinot
Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains); $42. Co-
85
Stephen’s 2005 Stromsoe Vineyard
Pinot Noir (San Luis Obispo County);
released with the ’05, Mount Eden’s ’04 is a soft,
languid wine, good as far as it goes, but missing that
extra something. It has cherry, cola, red currant and
smoky oak flavors, and is totally dry. Yet it’s a bit
tired, and seems at its best now. —S.H.
$30. Here’s a soft, dry, silky Pinot Noir with some
interesting flavors. They include very ripe cherries
and red currants, vanilla, white chocolate and
caramelized oak. The wine’s a little direct, but supple and elegant. —S.H.
SYRAH/SHIRAZ
92
Miraflores 2005 Syrah (El Dorado);
$30. From the first sniff to the finish, this
91
Sierra Moon 2005 Syrah (Fair Play);
$40. From this very high mountain vine-
90
Prospect 772 2005 The Brawler
Syrah-Viognier (Calaveras County);
is really a good Syrah. It impresses for its richness
and balance, and the way it brings a taste of the
earth to the ripe fruit. Grown at 2,600 feet in the
Sierra Nevada, it’s concentrated in cassis, licorice,
cocoa, pepper and Provençal herb flavors, and is
most notable for its harmony and complexity.
Absolutely delicious, a first-class Syrah. —S.H.
yard in the Sierra Foothills comes this fine,
although tannic, 100% Syrah. It certainly has
Northern Rhône aspirations, in the peppery, leathery complexities that accompany the blackberry,
currant and cedar flavors. Those aforementioned
tannins are big-time, but a slice of grilled beef will
tame them. —S.H.
$36. Mainly Syrah, with a little splash of Viognier,
this opulent, sensual wine floods the mouth with
flavors of blackberry and blueberry pie filling,
chocolate-raspberry truffle, red licorice, black pepper, clove and vanilla oak. Made in the modern,
cult Cab style, it has high alcohol and is soft.
—S.H.
2 0 0 8
I S S U E E
89
VJB 2004 Syrah (Sonoma Valley);
$45. VJB’s estate Syrah, from Sonoma Val-
ley, is vintage variable, and 2004 was kind to it. The
grapes got quite ripe, so the wine, which is slightly
hot, shows lush flavors of black and red currants,
dates and figs, chocolate macaroons, anisette and
peppery spices. Yet it maintains a balancing backbone of acids. —S.H.
88
Brander 2006 Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley); $22. Dry, tannic and ripe, this Syrah
has rewarding blackberry, currant, black raspberry,
date, chocolate and pepper flavors that are deep and
long in the finish. It’s a savory, polished wine, with
quite a bit of elegance and sophistication. —S.H.
88
Skyhawk Lane 2005 Syrah (San Luis
Obispo County); $44. This is a big, full-
bodied Syrah that seems to aim at the Northern
Rhône in style. The blackberry, cherry and chocolate flavors have exotic edges of leather, pepper and
tobacco, and the wine’s backbone is firmed with
thick, but softly ripe, tannins. Showing plenty of
class, it’s a wine to watch in future vintages. —S.H.
88
Twisted Oak 2004 Syrah (Calaveras
County); $24. Not quite up there with
the wonderful 2003, probably due to the hot vintage, which made it a little soft and overripe, but it’s
a very good wine. Shows black currant, mu shu
plum sauce, baker’s chocolate, leather, clove and
pepper flavors, wrapped into firm tannins. At its
best now and for a year or two. —S.H.
87
Lionheart 2005 Eaglepoint Ranch
Vineyard Syrah (Mendocino); $35.
This mountain vineyard is famous for reds on
steroids, and this is indeed a big wine. It’s highly
extracted and superripe, with blackberry, cherry,
licorice, beef jerky and cola flavors that have a
slightly funky, barnyardy edge. Feels a little rustic in
its tannins. —S.H.
86
Bodega del Sur 2005 Syrah (Calaveras County); $28. A nice, easy Syrah
made for immediate drinking. It’s dry and balanced,
with rich flavors of black currants, cherries, cocoa,
leather, tobacco and pepper flavors. —S.H.
86
Tolosa 2005 Edna Ranch Syrah (Edna
Valley); $22. If you liked the winery’s far
more expensive “1772” bottling of Syrah, you’ll find
an approximation of it here, at about half the price.
Dry and balanced, with typical Edna Valley acidity,
it’s marked by black cherry, red currant, licorice,
chocolate-covered mint and peppery spice flavors.
—S.H.
85
Fenestra 2004 Estate Syrah (Livermore Valley); $20. Syrah has been one
of Fenestra’s better reds. The Livermore Valley
heat has fully ripened the grapes, making for a soft,
plush wine with forward flavors of cherry, blackberry and raspberry jam, chocolate liqueur, orange
tea, dates, and licorice, leading to a dry, spicy finish.
—S.H.
85
Four Vines 2005 Bailey Vineyard
Syrah (Amador County); $38. There’s
plenty of ripe pie-filling fruit flavor in this dry wine.
Cherries, blackberries, boysenberries and all sorts
of other red fruits and berries mingle with melted
chocolate, licorice and peppery spice. Turns a bit
hot on the finish. —S.H.
ZINFANDEL
92
Ottimino Vineyards 2004 Ottimino
Vineyard Zinfandel (Russian River
Valley); $33. The vineyard is in a cooler part of
the valley, out near Occidental, so even in this hot
vintage, you can taste the acidity coaxed out of the
grapes by the chilly winds and fogs off the Pacific.
Yet the wine is not unripe, but shows interesting,
complex flavors of wild berries, mocha, Dr. Pepper, licorice and dusty Asian spices. Notable for its
balance and elegance. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
92
Toogood 2005 Herbert Zinfandel (El
Dorado); $30. The front label of this
wine bears the name of the winemaker, Marco
Capelli, who achieved fame at Swanson, the Napa
Valley winery. The wine has the briary, peppery,
rustic nature of many Sierra Foothills Zins, but has
a balance and elegance that show true coastal sensibilities. The flavors range from fresh blackberry
jam and black licorice to bacon, cloves, cinnamon
and smoky oak. —S.H.
91
Scott Harvey 2005 1869 Vineyard
Zinfandel (Amador County); $38.
They say the grapes come from American’s oldest
vineyard. The wine itself is very complex. It has a
delicate, almost Pinotesque structure that contains
flavors of wild strawberries, black and red currants,
rose petal, herb tea, licorice, black peppercorn and
smoke. All this finishes thoroughly dry and without
the high alcohol that can mar Foothills Zin. —S.H.
91
Stuhlmuller Vineyards 2005 Estate
Zinfandel (Alexander Valley); $24.
The trick of making Zinfandel elegant is to make it
feel texturally like Cabernet Sauvignon, while maintaining Zin’s flavors. Stuhlmuller’s Zin does just that.
It’s full-bodied, dry and smooth, with soft velvety
tannins and a long finish. Yet the briary, peppery,
wild berry fruit flavors are all Zinfandel. —S.H.
90
Ottimino Vineyards 2004 Rancho
Bello Vineyard Zinfandel (Russian
River Valley); $28. With this single-vineyard Zin,
released alongside their Ottimino Vineyard bottling,
the winery puts itself squarely on the Zinfandel map.
This wine has the wild, briary exuberance you want
in the variety, with deep, robust flavors of blackberries, plums, carob, Asian spices and balsam and a
savory hint of raisins. It’s a big, powerful wine, best
paired with grilled meats and hard cheeses. —S.H.
90
Trinitas 2004 Bigalow Vineyard Zinfandel (Contra Costa County); $28.
89
Miraflores 2005 Zinfandel (El
Dorado); $22. Here’s a Merlot-like Zin-
Here’s a dry, very tannic young Zin, with exotic flavors of wild berries, pomegranates, plums, dark
unsweetened chocolate, nutmeg, Chinese five-spice
and tobacco, and the list could go on and on. Totally
distinctive, it seems to capture a taste of its place.
The vines are said to be 120 years old. —S.H.
fandel, in terms of the silky mouthfeel, the elegance
of the tannins, and the cherry and currant flavors
that have a flowery, violet finish. But the black pepper, clove and nutmeg spices are all Zin. Drink this
lovely wine now. —S.H.
89
Rancho Zabaco 2005 Sonoma Heritage Vines Zinfandel (Sonoma
County); $18. Gallo did a great job with this wine,
producing 31,000 cases and yet making the wine
smooth, balanced and delicious. It’s quintessential
Sonoma Zin, with briary flavors of wild cherries and
raspberries, and coatings of chocolate, anisette,
bacon and spices. —S.H.
89
Rancho Zabaco 2004 Reserve Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley); $24. This is
really a lovely Zin, showcasing how perfectly Dry
Creek’s terroir works for the variety. Although the
alcohol level is high, the wine is elegant and balanced, with polished flavors of wild berries, cocoa,
smoky wood and spices. —S.H.
89
Wine Guerrilla 2006 Coffaro Vineyards Old Vine Zinfandel (Dry Creek
Valley); $30. This is one of those old-style field
blend types of wines, with some other varieties
besides Zin. A big, tannic, juicy, fruity wine, potent
in jammy blackberry, blueberry, currant, dark
unsweetened chocolate, coffee and pepper flavors
that cry out for gilled beef, poultry or pork. —S.H.
88
Clos du Lac 2004 Reserve Blend Zinfandel (Sierra Foothills); $20. A few
words that describe this wine are lusty, brawny, rustic, really ripe, jammy, peppery, smooth and spicy.
In other words, classic Foothills Zin. But just as
important is what it’s not. It’s not high in alcohol,
nor is it sweet. Drink this balanced Zin with barbecued ribs. —S.H.
88
Montevina 2005 Terra d’Oro Zinfandel (Amador County); $18. Montevina’s
done a good job with Zinfandel under this label for
many years, and the wine is still a pretty good buy.
Dry and balanced, it’s textbook Foothills Zin, with
brisk tannins supporting wild berry, leather, black
pepper and cocoa flavors that dissolve into a spicy
finish. —S.H.
88
Scott Harvey 2005 Old Vine Reserve
Tastes like some shriveled berries made it into the
blend, which isn’t a bad thing. They give a note of
baked fruit to the currant, mocha, anise and date
flavors. This versatile Zin is notable for its silky, elegant structure. —S.H.
88
Wine Guerrilla 2006 Two Vineyards
Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley); $25. A
fine example of a certain style of Dry Creek Zin,
this one shows the brambly, wild berry character of
the variety. You’ll find cherries and wild berries, but
also country herb notes of nettles, chamomile and
sage, and a finish like cherry-infused coffee. The
dry, tannic finish calls for grilled meat dishes.
—S.H.
87
Clos du Lac 2004 Potter Vineyard Zinfandel (Shenandoah Valley); $20. If
you like you Zinfandels very spicy and peppery,
with a briary, rustic nature, this is for you. The flavors suggest blackberries, mulberries, blueberries
and anise, with a roasted finish. But it’s that spicebox thing that really marks the wine. —S.H.
87
Sobon Estate 2006 Cougar Hill Zinfandel (Amador County); $18. For-
ward and easy in cherry, currant, raspberry,
W I N E S
tangerine zest, cola and peppery spice flavors, this
Zin has a gentle texture. There’s also a wealth of
firm, dusty tannins that could help the wine age for
a few years. —S.H.
86
Lava Cap 2005 Reserve Zinfandel (El
Dorado); $20. This mountain-grown Zin
is dry, lusty, robust and briary, with peppery flavors
of wild forest berries, leather and cola. You’ll find
firm acids, but the wine has a silky texture that’s
almost like Pinot Noir. —S.H.
86
Indian Rock 2005 Syrah (Calaveras
County); $18. Syrah is an easy grape to
ripen in fruit, but a lot harder to get a good structure. This polished wine does both. It rewards with
blackberry, cassis, cherry and chocolate flavors, but
has a wonderful acid-tannin-oak architecture that
gives it elegance. With its direct, easy flavors, drink
now. —S.H.
86
Montevina 2005 Terra d’Oro Syrah
(Amador County); $18. More tannic,
drier and more acidic than most fine coastal Syrahs,
this one from the Sierra Foothills is marked by its
firm structure.The black currant, licorice, beef jerky
and tobacco flavors are complex. Best now. —S.H.
86
Renner 2004 Syrah (Sierra Foothills);
$22. The proprietors sold Syrah grapes to
outside wineries before deciding to make one, in
2003. That wine was destroyed in a warehouse fire
in 2005, so this ’04 is their inaugural release. It’s a
promising Syrah, soft and smooth, with ripe black
currant, cherry, cola and pepper spice flavors that
achieve some complexity. —S.H.
86
Matrix 2005 Zinfandel (Dry Creek
Valley); $45. Lots to like in this big, pow-
erful Zin. It sure is ripe, brimming with explosive
cherry, raspberry, blackberry, mocha and spice flavors, and the mouthfeel is soft, almost syrupy. It’s a
dry wine, but very high alcohol makes it taste glyceriney-sweet on the finish. —S.H.
86
Newsome-Harlow 2006 Big John’s
Vineyard Zinfandel (Calaveras
County); $24. A good Foothills Zin, but purists
may find the oak level too high and wonder why it’s
there, since the underlying wine itself is fruity and
R E V I E W E D
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zesty and fine. The barrels were one and two years
old, and they give an excessively extracted,
caramelized smokiness to the varietal flavors of cherries, currants, raspberries, orange zest and cola.
—S.H.
85
Bonterra 2006 Zinfandel (Mendocino
County); $16. Solidly in the Bonterra Zin
85
Scott Harvey 2005 Mountain Selection
style, the ’06 succeeds with polished flavors of cherries, blackberries and cola. The wine feels lightly
gentle and silky in the mouth, with the weight and
body of a Pinot Noir. —S.H.
Here’s a full-bodied, lusty Zin. With a rustically tannic structure and ripe, almost overripe flavors of
blackberry and cherry jam and black pepper, it’s a
natural for a peppery flank steak. —S.H.
OTHER VARIETAL REDS
92
Estates Taylor Peak Merlot (Bennett
Valley); $40. The vineyard gets the benefit of cool
breezes via the Petaluma Gap. The structure is very
polished, with firm tannins and brisk acids framing
blackberry, cherry, blueberry, cola and spice flavors.
Notable for its richness and finesse, and a great success for a California Merlot. —S.H.
90
Merriam 2005 Jones Vineyard Cabernet Franc (Dry Creek Valley); $45. An
90
Twisted Oak 2005 Tempranillo
(Calaveras County); $24. A study in
88
Indian Rock 2005 Barbera (Sierra
Foothills); $22. An example of California
easy, gentle wine, dry and silky, with pronounced
cherry, violet, vanilla and sweet cedar flavors that
are wrapped into rich, fine tannins. Shows a complexity and elegance that suggest great foods. Drink
now. —S.H.
progress, as are all California Temps. This is easily
Twisted Oak’s best so far. Dry and medium-bodied,
it shows rich cherry, red currant, tangerine zest and
pepper flavors, rendered complex with earthier
notes of tobacco, tar and cedar. The texture is a
lovely, lilting silk. A wine to watch. —S.H.
Barbera at its best, this is brawny and muscular and
rich in flavor, which makes it perfect for roasts and
hearty pasta dishes. With firm tannins and crisp
acidity, this one is filled with rewarding currant,
mocha, olive tapenade and spice flavors. —S.H.
2 0 0 8
I S S U E E
88
Toogood 2005 Buchert Vineyard Malbec (El Dorado); $28. An impressively
dark, powerfully structured and deeply flavored
wine, this Malbec brims with explosive blackberry,
black currant, crushed peppercorn and leather flavors. With its big-time tannins and dry, balanced
mouthfeel, it’s a great wine for steak. —S.H.
87
B l a c k B ox N V Re s e r v e M e r l o t
(Sonoma County); $25/3L. At about $6
per bottle equivalent, this Merlot-in-a-box is a terrific buy. It’s a dry, stylish red wine, whose cherry,
herb and subtle oak flavors are polished. If you’ve
shied away from boxed wines, try this one. You’ll be
pleasantly surprised. Best Buy. —S.H.
86
Lavender Ridge 2006 Mourvèdre
(Sierra Foothills); $24. Made in a soft,
gentle way, this pretty Mourvèdre has chocolateinfused blackberry, currant, raspberry, licorice, cola
and pepper flavors. It’s very dry, and will drink well
with a char-broiled steak. —S.H.
85
Bray 2005 Alicante Bouschet (Shenandoah Valley); $19. Very dry, with tough,
astringent tannins, this wine may develop with
some years in the cellar. It has a good heart of cassis. If you drink it now, give it serious decanting.
—S.H.
85
Fenestra 2005 Silvaspoons Vineyard
Malbec (Lodi); $20. This is a soft, ripe
wine that has a certain charm in the forwardness of
the flavors of cherries, black raspberries, milk
chocolate, spicy anise and smoky oak. Fully dry and
modest in alcohol, it will be fine with hard cheese
or a broiled steak. —S.H.
85
Lavender Ridge 2006 Grenache
(Sierra Foothills); $24. Soft and gentle,
with the mashed cherry flavors Grenache is noted
for, this wine has spicy nuances of cloves, anise, cinnamon and vanilla. It’s a little sweet. —S.H.
91
Prospect 772 2005 The Brat GrenacheSyrah (Calaveras County); $36. This is
a blend of Grenache and Syrah, and it’s an enormously sensual wine. With a soft, caressing texture
of velvet and satin, it carries intricate flavors of
chocolate-covered raspberries, black cherries,
licorice, Dr. Pepper, smoky vanilla meringue, cloves,
black pepper and other spices. Yet for all that fruity
opulence, the finish is dry. —S.H.
89
Elyse 2005 Naggiar Vineyard C’est si
Bon (Sierra Foothills); $28. Napa-based
Elyse is better known for their Cabernet Sauvignon, but they have reached into Nevada County,
in the Sierra Foothills, for this lovely Rhône-style
blend. It’s soft in acidity and the tannins are melted,
as you might expect from a warm-to-hot region. But
the flavors are plush in jammy cherries, black raspberries, chocolate and crushed black pepper.
—S.H.
88
Newsome-Harlow 2006 El Portal
(Calaveras County); $24. Power is the
name of the game with this Petite Sirah and Zinfandel blend. It just detonates in the mouth, with
red chili pepper-inspired flavors of cherries, orange
marmalade, and red plums, finishing with a dash of
tabasco. The acidity may be a little too much for
some people, but it makes the wine lively and cutting. —S.H.
87
Fife 2005 L’Attitude 39 (Mendocino);
$20. This is Fife’s Rhône-style blend, in
this case of Grenache, Syrah, Carignane and Petite
Sirah. Typically bone dry and quite tannic, the ’05
has a dusty astringency that makes the tongue stick
to the palate, which suggests drinking it with rich
fare, such as ribs, or long-simmered beef and veal
dishes. —S.H.
87
Madroña 2005 Shiraz-Cabernet
Sauvignon (El Dorado); $16. A nice
RED BLENDS
wine that combines the pepper of Shiraz with Cab’s
rich black currant flavors. The texture is rewarding, showing a good balance of rich, fine tannins
and crisp acidity, with a sweet touch of oak. —S.H.
92
87
Twisted Oak 2005 *%#&@! (Calaveras County); $24. A blend of Mourvè-
86
Bodega del Sur 2002 Carmesi SyrahZinfandel (Calaveras County); $18.
Twisted Oak 2005 The Spaniard
(Calaveras County); $45. Twisted Oak
has a pretty serious track record with this wine. The
’05, a blend of Tempranillo, Graciano and Garnacha
(Grenache), is very dry and complex. It’s soft but
firmly tannic, with juicy flavors of cherries, raspberries, pomengranates, licorice, chocolate, cloves
and pepper. Has the body of a fine Pinot Noir, with
different flavors. —S.H.
dre, Syrah and Grenache, this Rhône-style red is
soft, gentle and complex. It shows layered flavors of
cherries, licorice, milk chocolate and smoky vanilla,
and the tannins are smooth and fine. —S.H.
This ripe, polished blend combines Zinfandel’s
spicy, briary quality with Syrah’s peppery nobility.
The wine is soft in both acids and tannins, and very
flavorful, with exotic tastes of raspberries, root beer,
chocolate mint and raisins. —S.H.
86
Clos du Lac 2004 R Reserve Rhône
Red Blend (Amador County); $14.
86
Lavender Ridge 2005 Cotes du Calaveras (Sierra Foothills); $18. A Rhône
85
Cline 2006 Cashmere (California);
$16. Rustic and country-style is the way to
85
Hunt Cellars 2003 Duets (Paso Robles); $36. A blend of Cabernet and Syrah,
Black pepper aromas and flavors star in this dry
Rhône-style blend. It’s a little soft in structure, with
fine silky tannins that frame attractive blackberry,
cherry, cassis and tangerine zest flavors. —S.H.
blend of Syrah, Mourvèdre and Grenache, this wine
is softly attractive in spicy fruits and berries. The
flavors are very ripe, suggesting mashed cherries,
raspberries, currants, cola, root beer and licorice.
—S.H.
describe this Mourvèdre, Syrah and Grenache blend.
With its soft, dry finish, smooth tannins and cherry,
cola, herb and spice flavors, it’s food friendly. —S.H.
the wine is dry and bitter, with a grapeskin astringency to the currant, blackberry and tangerine flavors. It wisely holds back on the alcohol and
excessive fruitiness that can mar Paso Robles reds.
But that astringency lowers the score. —S.H.
CALIFORNIA
WHITE WINES
CHARDONNAY
95
Morgan 2006 Double L Vineyard Hat
Trick Chardonnay (Santa Lucia Highlands); $65. Hat Trick is the best of the best of
Morgan’s estate vineyard, which is in the chilliest
northwestern part of the Highlands. Acidity stars,
giving the wine a brilliant crispness that’s so clean
and fine. Barrel fermented in one-third new
French oak, the wine is incredibly rich and leesy.
The terroir has coaxed out complex layers of
pineapples, Meyer lemons, limes, apricots and very
exotic tropical fruits suggesting golden mangoes
and papayas. The oak adds even richer layers of
crème brûlée to this vastly enjoyable wine. —S.H.
94
Gary Farrell 2005 Westside Farms
Chardonnay (Russian River Valley);
$38. This is a single-vineyard Chard grown on
Westside Road, in the heart of the northern valley’s
Pinot country. It’s a very elaborated wine, high in
acidity, showing tiers of tart green apple, Kaffir
lime, pear, smoky oak, and Champagne-like lees
and brioche flavors. Just great, and should hold for
six years or more. —S.H.
93
B a r n e t t 2 0 0 6 S a voy V i n ey a r d
Chardonnay (Anderson Valley); $40.
Decant this Chard for a while before serving, and
don’t pour it too cold. It’s a tightly wound wine that
needs to aerate, in order to liberate the complexities.
It’s marked by crisp acids and flinty minerals, with
undergirdings of peaches, pears and exotic tropical
fruits, and is bone dry, in the best way. Undoubtedly
will develop for a number of years. —S.H.
93
Gary Farrell 2005 Rochioli Vineyard
Chardonnay (Russian River Valley);
$38. A Brilliant Chardonnay, picked relatively early
compared to some, but that has kept the alcohol
moderate and the acidity brisk, making the wine
crisp and even flinty. The flavors veer toward green
apples, Asian pears, Meyer lemons, limes and other
juicy, acid-inspired fruits. —S.H.
93
Estates Camelot Highlands Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley); $25. Just might be
the best $25 Chard out there. Gorgeous and dramatic in opulence, with a creamy texture, and
tremendous in ripe tropical fruit, smoky oak and
vanilla flavors. There’s a long, honeyed, buttercreamy finish. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
93
Mount Eden 2004 Estate Vineyard
Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Mountains);
$48. Mount Eden’s estate Chardonnay typically
starts out life as a tight, nervous wine. It’s marked
by acidity and minerals, and you don’t want to drink
it too cold. The ’04 is a lovely young wine, rich and
dramatically complex, with layers of pineapples,
Meyer lemons, limes, wet stone, creamy yeast and
smoky oak, like an important Chablis. Brilliant now,
it should develop additional bottle nuances over the
next six years. —S.H.
92
Gary Farrell 2005 Starr Ridge Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley); $38. Very dry, very crisp in acids, with exotic
flavors of quinces, Asian pears, papayas, green
apples, figs, and savory spices, with a light coat of
smoky oak. This Chard is also notable for its finely
W I N E S
crafted structure. You can taste a stony flintiness, like
wet rocks on a cool rainy day, in the finish. —S.H.
92
Stuhlmuller Vineyards 2006 Estate
Chardonnay (Alexander Valley); $23.
Stuhlmuller has established a fine track record with
this wine. The signature is an oak-infused spiciness,
and the flamboyant tropical fruit flavors of Alexander Valley Chardonnay. Tiers of pineapples, pears
and mangoes flood the palate, leading to a long,
honey-rich finish. —S.H.
90
Gary Farrell 2005 Cresta Ridge Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley); $38. The vineyard is owned by the Farrells,
and is located in the Green Valley, the coolest section of Russian River. The wine is very bright in
acidity and clean and clear in minerals, with notes
of tart lemondrop, brioche and Asian pear. Lees
add a distinct taste of yeast and a rich, creamy texture. Perfect with cracked crab. —S.H.
90
Estates Seco Highlands Chardonnay
(Arroyo Seco); $30. Here’s a floral, minerally
wine, with wildflower, orange spice and honey aromas almost like a Viognier. In the mouth, it erupts
in fruit so sweet, it’s almost like a dessert wine, with
pineapple custard and lemon cream flavors. A little
off-beat for a Chard, but very good. —S.H.
90
Vineyard Dobles Lías Chardonnay
(Russian River Valley); $45. This is Marimar’s
extended lees contact Chard, and it’s characterized
by a creamy, slightly yeasty taste. That’s on top of the
fruit, which is classic Green Valley tart green apples,
citrus fruits and pears. The acidity is crisp and balancing, giving the wine good structure. —S.H.
89
Bernardus 2006 Chardonnay (Monterey County); $20. Dry and flinty, with
89
Cobblestone 2006 Chardonnay
(Arroyo Seco); $29. A good followup to
flavors of grilled pineapples, peaches, pears and
roasted hazelnuts, this wine has a stony, minerally
taste. Santa Lucia Highlands and Arroyo Seco fruit
are well represented in this stylish wine. —S.H.
last year’s bottling, Cobblestone’s ’06 Chard hails
from the Arroyo Seco, known for crisp, ripe, elegant white wines. It brims with pineapple, peach,
tangerine, mineral, buttered toast and vanilla spice
flavors. —S.H.
R E V I E W E D
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89
Gallo Family Vineyards 2004 Two
Rock Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma
Coast); $28. The vintage was a good one for Gallo
Chardonnays, and with this bottling, held back for
more than three years, they have another winner.
Dry and crisp, this pineapple- and green appleflavored wine has an earthiness suggesting sweet
tobacco and fresh herbs. —S.H.
88
Charles Creek 2004 Miradero
(Sonoma Valley); $32. This is a fine,
88
Ironstone 2006 Reserve Chardonnay
(Calaveras County); $18. This is an
soft wine for early drinking. Dry and elegant, its
flavors are of blackberries, cherries and cedar. In
the past, the Miradero bottling has been Merlot.
The addition of two-thirds Cabernet Sauvignon has
given the wine tannic structure and depth. —S.H.
enormously rich wine whose grapes got very ripe,
offering a blast of peach, pear, pineapple, mango
and Key lime pie flavors. Oak also plays an important role, bringing buttered toast, wood spice and
crème brûlée overtones. —S.H.
88
Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River
Valley); $35. Oaky, dry and acidic, this Chard is
saved by the ripeness of the underlying fruit, which
gives green apple, peach, pear and pineapple flavors. The acidity hangs in there all the way through
the tart finish. —S.H.
88
Mount Eden 2006 Wolff Vineyard
Chardonnay (Edna Valley); $20.
87
Barnett 2006 Sangiacomo Vineyard
Chardonnay (Carneros); $32. New oak
87
Charles Creek 2006 Las Patolitas
Chardonnay (Sonoma County); $25.
Bright and pure, with high natural acidity framing
ripe flavors of peaches, pineapples, limes, kiwi fruits
and smoky, oaky vanilla. Classic Edna Valley
Chardonnay. —S.H.
accounts for about one-third of this wine, but the
wood really stands out. The underlying wine is
rather dry, lean and citrusy. It’s eleganty structured,
not an opulent palate seducer but a companionable
wine for food. —S.H.
Here’s a sleek, citrusy Chardonnay, showing lime
and pineapple flavors and a touch of smoky oak. It’s
balanced and elegant, with good acidity. Nice with
barbecued salmon or roast pork. —S.H.
2 0 0 8
I S S U E E
87
Gainey 2006 Chardonnay (Sta. Rita
Hills); $20. A nice, dry Chard, a bit on
the earthy, tobaccoey side, with pleasantly acidic
mineral flavors and hints of lemons, limes and
pineapples. —S.H.
PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO
87
Bianchi 2006 Signature Selection Pinot
Grigio (Arroyo Grande Valley); $19.
Chardonnay, showing tropical fruit, pear, nectarine,
citrus and mineral flavors. The acidity is racy, giving
the wine a crisp, bright mouthfeel. —S.H.
Here’s an unoaked wine that will be great as a cocktail sipper, or with a wide range of foods, from veggies with a garlicky dip to roasted chicken or broiled
halibut. It’s bone dry and very crisp in acidity, with
interesting flavors of citrus fruits, figs, green melons, wildflowers, vanilla and dusty spices. —S.H.
87
87
87
Hawkes 2005 Chardonnay (Alexander Valley); $20. A very nice, fairly rich
Kenneth Volk 2005 Sierra Madre
Vineyard Chardonnay (Santa Maria
Valley); $24. Former Wild Horse proprietor Ken
Volk is back with his own personal brand after selling the winery. He’s sourced his fruit from this very
famous old vineyard. It’s a good start, a deep golden
wine showing ripe apricot, pear and sweet smoky
oak flavors. —S.H.
87
Racchus 2005 Chardonnay (Central
Coast); $12. A nice, crisp Chard that has
86
Beringer 2006 Stanly Ranch Chardonnay (Carneros); $20. The vineyard is an
pineapple, peach, pear and caramel-vanilla flavors
that turn honeyed and spicy on the finish. From
the Sonoma producer Ty Caton. Best Buy. —S.H.
old one, on the Napa side of Carneros. The wine
shows the delicate structure, dryness and minerality
of the region, with citrus, peach and vanilla oak flavors. It’s an elegant, light-bodied wine meant to be
opened now. —S.H.
86
C h a r l e s C r e e k 2 0 0 6 Po r F a vo r
Chardonnay (Carneros); $25. This is
the winery’s no-oak Chardonnay. It didn’t undergo
the malolactic fermentation, so that appley acidity is
pronounced. With citrus and mineral flavors, you
might think it was a Sauvignon Blanc, except for
the peach and pear richness on the finish. —S.H.
85
Virgin 2006 Chardonnay (California);
$10. Here’s a good everyday Chardonnay
at a great price. Dry and smooth, it’s showing
creamy flavors of pineapples, peaches, apples and
vanilla-spice, brightened by zesty acids. From
Brown-Forman. Best Buy. —S.H.
coolest, westernmost vineyard in the appellation
comes this deliciously balanced wine. It’s off-dry,
with residual sugar of 1%, but the considerable
acidity gives a clean structure to the flavors of
peaches, green apples, honey and spices. —S.H.
87
Five Rivers 2006 Pinot Grigio (Monterey County); $10. This wine will fly out
the door for both its price and quality. Silky, crisp
and fruity, it has flavors of limes, pineapples,
peaches, green apples, nectarines and flowers, with
a stony minerality. The finish is just a little off-dry.
Best Buy. —S.H.
87
Stephen’s 2006 Stromsoe Vineyard
Pinot Grigio (San Luis Obispo
County); $14. This is an interesting interpretation
of PG. On the plus side is its very low (12.5%) alcohol, making it light-bodied and easy to drink.
There’s a little sweetness, not too much, that gives a
honeyed taste to the lime, grapefruit, fig, green
apple and spice flavors. You’ll also find a crisp, minerally finish to this refreshing, food-friendly wine.
Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
SAUVIGNON BLANC
90
Fenestra 2006 Sauvignon Blanc (Livermore Valley); $16. A crisp wine that
shows why this region east of San Francisco was
renowned for Sauvignon Blanc 100 years ago.
There’s a firm mineral tang to the lemongrass, fig,
green melon and papaya flavors, and the finish,
while thoroughly dry, has a honeyed richness. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
90
Breggo 2006 Wiley Vineyard Pinot
Gris (Anderson Valley); $22. From the
Gary Farrell 2006 Redwood Ranch
Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma County);
$25. A really superior Sauvignon Blanc, dry and
savory in citrus, fig and melon flavors, with a coolclimate streak of lemongrass and gooseberry. A
complex arrangement of stainless steel- and new
oak barrel-fermentation has resulted in a complex
mouthfeel, at once tartly brisk and creamy. —S.H.
90
Newsome-Harlow 2007 Sauvignon
Blanc (Calaveras County); $16. This is
86
Mirassou 2006 Sauvignon Blanc (California); $12. A fine, everyday Sauvignon,
85
Clos du Lac 2007 Sauvignon Blanc
(Amador County); $10. With only 13%
85
Edna Valley Vineyard 2006 Paragon
Sauvignon Blanc (Edna Valley); $12.
an extraordinarily rich, powerful Sauvignon Blanc,
so lush that it’s hard to believe it’s unoaked.
Explodes in lime, green apple, fig, melon, pepper,
and vanilla cream flavors, with acidity so crisp, it
makes your mouth water. This is really a compelling
Sauvignon Blanc. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
marked by the crisp, zesty acidity and citrus fruits
that characterize the variety. The flavors of lemongrass, limes and grapefruits are made richer by layers of figs and sweet peppermint. —S.H.
alcohol, this Sauvignon Blanc seems to have a little
bit of sugar remaining, making it sweet in lemon,
lime and pineapple flavors, like a power drink. But
the acidity is crisp and refreshing, and provides
needed balance. Best Buy. —S.H.
With a richly sweet, honeyed finish, this partially
barrel-fermented wine has ripe flavors of citrus
fruits, figs and smoky vanilla. The acidity is high,
which gives it a clean, bright mouthfeel. —S.H.
VERDELHO
87
Bray 2007 Verdelho (Shenandoah
Valley); $16. This Portuguese variety,
86
Fenestra 2006 Silvaspoons Vineyard
Verdelho (Lodi); $15. Verdelho is one of
most often spelled “Verdejo,” isn’t widely planted in
California. But here, from Bray’s estate vineyard, it
has produced a lovely wine. Crisp and fine, with
flavors of honeysuckle, lemongrass, peaches and
candied ginger, it’s the perfect accompaniment to
Vietnamese or Burmese food. —S.H.
those new varieties imported from old Europe
that’s providing a badly needed shot in the arm for
California, namely, the need for crisply acidic, dry
whites. It’s a zesty, refreshing wine, with lemonhoney, peach and vanilla flavors. —S.H.
VERMENTINO
WHITE BLENDS
88
94
Gianelli 2007 Vermentino (Tuolumne
County); $18. Vermentino is a Mediter-
ranean variety rarely found in California. Gianelli
has done a good job. The wine is crisp, with zesty
flavors of limes, oranges, vanilla and honeysuckle
flowers. —S.H.
86
Indian Rock 2006 Vermentino (Calaveras County); $18. Dry, crisp and with no
oak influence, this stainless steel-fermented wine is
rich in apricot, nectarine, pineapple, vanilla,
macadamia nut and honey flavors. It’s a nice, versatile white wine to have with a variety of food.
—S.H.
VIOGNIER
88
Twisted Oak 2006 Viognier (Calaveras County); $22. This Viognier was
grown in a warm climate, and that has made it
slightly soft but enormously ripe. It offers a blast of
tropical fruit, wildflower, Asian pear, buttered toast,
caramel cream and spicebox flavors. There’s a honeyed richness through the long finish, but the wine
is fundamentally dry. —S.H.
87
Black Ridge 2006 Viognier (Santa
Cruz Mountains); $25. This could be
crisper. It’s a little on the soft side, which gives it a
melted, candied feeling. But there’s no question that
it’s a delicious wine. It just floods the mouth with
pineapple custard, lemon, pear, vanilla, honey,
almond cookie and crème brûlée flavors. —S.H.
86
Stonehouse 2006 Tumbas Vineyard
Viognier (Shenandoah Valley); $18. A
little sugary-sweet, but the acidity is so crisp and
clean, it balances things out. The pineapple, papaya,
peach jam, honeysuckle and vanilla flavors are
really delicious. —S.H.
85
Fenestra 2006 Viognier (Contra Costa
County); $17. This Viognier has jammy
flavors of apricots, pineapples, limes, tangerines,
vanilla and fennel, and is brightened with a crisp
scour of acidity. Good with Asian fare or a grilled
chicken breast topped with a fruity salsa. —S.H.
W I N E S
Treana 2006 Mer Soleil Vineyard
Viognier-Marsanne (Central Coast);
$25. Treana has enjoyed great success with this
blend of Viognier and Marsanne, which is one of
the best Rhône-style white wines in California. The
main reason is the source of the grapes. The vineyard, owned by the Wagners of Caymus, is stellar.
The ’06 is as rich and crisply acidic as ever, with fantastically complex, honeyed tropical fruit, apricot
and floral flavors that taste like they have a touch of
botrytis. —S.H.
90
E l y s e 2 0 0 5 N a g g i a r Vi n ey a r d
L’Ingénue (Sierra Foothills); $35. This
90
Twisted Oak 2006 %@#$! (Sierra
Foothills); $24. The honeyed aroma of
blend of Marsanne, Roussane, Viognier and
Grenache Blanc is very powerful in pastry-filling
pineapple, guava, papaya, apricot and vanilla flavors, with oaky nuances of smoke, vanilla and
caramel, and a succulent edge of honeysuckle. It’s
well-balanced, with crisp acidity providing a savory
bite to the richness. —S.H.
this Rhône blend of Marsanne, Roussanne, Rolle
and Viognier makes it immediately attractive, but
then the flavors kick in, and it turns into a roller
coaster ride. Apricot jam, peaches, pears, pineapples, butter-sautéed plaintain, vanilla custard, star
anise, lemon crème brûlée, the list goes on and on.
The finish is fully dry and the alcohol is refreshingly low. Drink now. —S.H.
87
D a l t o n 2 0 0 7 D a l t o n V i n ey a r d
Marsanne-Roussanne (Calaveras
County); $30. An interesting, exotic wine, fullbodied and rich. The blend of these two southern
Rhône varieties has resulted in a creamy wine with
waves of flavors, including baked peaches, apricots,
vanilla, honeysuckle and sweet cloves. —S.H.
OREGON
RED WINES
PINOT NOIR
92
Le Cadeau 2005 Côte Est Pinot Noir
(Willamette Valley); $45. The Côte Est
Pinot Noir is this young winery’s toughest, chewiest
and most substantial. It is layered with classic Oregon Pinot flavors of leaf, herb and earth. The
R E V I E W E D
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J U LY
tightly-packed fruit is textural and complex, with
the herbal flavors completely intermingled with the
tart currant, cranberry and pomegranate. The flavors compound with elegant precision. Pay attention and this wine really delivers the goods. —P.G.
92
Owen Roe 2006 The Kilmore Pinot
Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District); $42. A
92
Owen Roe 2006 Pinot Noir (Chehalem
Mountains); $42. Basalt soils differenti-
sweet, supple, seductive Pinot that flirts with your
palate. A bold display of ripe, sweet cherry fruit,
followed by a flash of mint, a whiff of licorice, a
streak of stone and a warm finish that suggests cola
and sassafras. It gathers strength as it sits in the
mouth, finishing with a flourish. —P.G.
ate this from the surrounding areas; the flavors of
the wine are stiff and rocky and sublime. The rock
accentuates the firm elegance of the grape, and
seems to bring out the Pinot-ness. Cranberry, wild
cherry, spice and just a hint of peach, believe it or
not; the flavors so well-integrated it strains the
palate to suss them out. It’s just plain delicious, and
perfectly built. —P.G.
92
Soléna 2005 Domaine Danielle Laurent Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District); $45. The top cuvée of Soléna Cellars has
tangy blackberry and black cherry flavors, wrapped
in lightly noted hints of earth, leaf and bark. It’s just
short of luxurious, but the resonant mid-palate
extends into a finish dappled with cinnamon, smoke
and toasted walnuts. Elegant and refined, this
should age nicely for up to a decade. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
91
Elk Cove 2006 La Bohème Pinot Noir
(Willamette Valley); $48. La Bohème,
91
Soléna 2005 Vista Hills Pinot Noir
(Dundee Hills); $35. Soft yet intense
now almost 25 years old, has been Elk Cove’s tête de
cuvée for most of its life. In some vintages, it can be
unyielding and tannic when young, but usually has
the acid and grip to reward cellaring. As with all of
Adam Campbell’s wines, it is finely sculpted, showcasing tart and tangy cranberry, pomegranate and
rhubard flavors with a finish that lands on a foundation of rock. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
scents of raspberry, strawberry and rose petals glide
into a silky sweet midpalate. Hints of Asian spice
are wrapped into bark and leaf, but the lovely,
berry-flavored fruit keeps on coming right into the
tasty finish, laced with barrel toast, nutskin and
brown sugar. —P.G.
2 0 0 8
I S S U E E
91
Willamette Valley Vineyards 2006 Signature Cuvée Pinot Noir (Willamette
Valley); $45. The Signature Cuvée opens on a flo-
ral note, a pretty and beguiling blend of roses and
orchids. The midpalate is substantial and textured,
offering spicy plum, strawberry and raspberry preserves and firm acids. The fruit flavors persist even
as the tannins and barrel notes kick in, offering
cocoa, ground coffee and walnut. All in all, an elegant and complex effort that should also age nicely
for up to a decade. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
90
Domaine Coteau 2006 Pinot Noir
(Eola-Amity Hills); $30. From the first
whiff—laden with tangy notes of herb, leaf and
spicy cranberry fruit—this announces itself as classic Oregon Pinot Noir. At 14+% it’s ripe enough to
build a core of sweet cherry fruit; but it is not shy
about expressing the herbal side of the grape, and
does so to good effect. It’s a vivacious, expressive
wine that offers a rich range of flavors, well beyond
the basic fruit and barrel approach of too many
wineries. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
90
Elk Cove 2006 Mount Richmond Pinot
Noir (Willamette Valley); $48. The
Mount Richmond vineyard was established with
cuttings from the winery’s Roosevelt vineyard, and
carries some similar qualities. Here the fruit is a little softer than the other sites, a little rounder and
plummier, and the finish, though not quite satiny,
softens up the tannins as well. It carries into some
roasted meat character that suggests the wine will
develop aromatically over the next decade or more.
—P.G.
90
Elk Cove 2006 Five Mountain Pinot
Noir (Willamette Valley); $48. Five
Mountain is the newest addition to Elk Cove’s single-vineyard portfolio, and it stands apart with
sharp, spicy, pine resin highlights dotted with cranberry fruit. Tomato leaf and savory spices pile on
through the finish; this is distinctive and wellcrafted, though a bit off the mainstream Oregon
style. —P.G.
90
Elk Cove 2006 Pinot Noir (Willamette
Valley); $29. This opens right up into a
lovely, expressive nose laden with cherry blossom,
plum, vanilla and butterscotch. The core of sweet
raspberry and cherry holds steady into a moderately tannic finish, etched with some green tannins
and dried herbs. Smooth, silky and substantial, this
relative value could cellar for another 6–8 years.
—P.G.
90
Soléna 2005 Willakia Pinot Noir
(Eola-Amity Hills); $35. The vineyard
90
Torii Mor 2005 Shea Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District); $75.
name is a combination of the two prevalent soil
types, Nekia and WillaKenzie. The Dijon clone
Pinot is dark and pleasantly earthy, with core flavors
of cassis and cherry liqueur. The earthy, slightly rustic tannins coat the throat, leaving an astringent,
green tea residue, but the silky fruit compensates.
This needs some further bottle age to really shine.
—P.G.
The Shea vineyard is still recovering from extensive post-phylloxera replanting, and many of the
wines produced from its fruit seem much lighter
than in the past. Here, however it compensates, at
least partially, with a graceful, elegant composition.
The mix of red fruits, mineral and light spring herbs
is perfectly set against polished tannins. I would
expect this wine to add texture and complexity over
the next decade or more. —P.G.
90
Willamette Valley Vineyards 2006
Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir (Willamette
Valley); $45. The Estate Vineyard bottling shows
a definite meaty, almost Rhone-like aroma, but this
is no Syrah. It’s a very elegant, light, sultry bottle of
Pinot Noir. The tart black cherry and currant fruit is
shadowed by smoke and cinnamon, but the balance
throughout is light and delicate. —P.G.
90
Tualatin Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Willamette Valley); $45. This vineyard, now 35
years old, is one of the most northern in Oregon,
and abuts the eastern foothills of the Coastal Range.
Consequently, it is rather austere, herbal and somewhat resinous with pine needle highlights. The fruit
is tart and sharp, tasting of cranberry and wild
strawberry. But the winemaking is spot on, and the
wine does not overreach. The bouquet is really
quite beautiful. —P.G.
89
Brandborg 2006 Ferris Wheel Vineyard Estate Pinot Noir (Umpqua Valley); $38. As with the other Pinots from
Brandborg, this estate bottling puts the spices front
and center, and matches the intensity of the fruit
and barrels appropriately. This is seductive and elegant with a feminine grace. The spicy plum and red
currant flavors carry some tasty barrel notes of clove
and cinnamon, and the wine has a bit more intensity than its stablemates. —P.G.
89
Le Cadeau 2005 Rocheux Pinot Noir
(Willamette Valley); $45. Sweet, toasty
89
Le Cadeau 2005 Diversité Pinot Noir
(Willamette Valley); $45. This is a sub-
89
O’Reilly’s 2006 Pinot Noir (Oregon);
$15. This is hands-down the best value
89
Owen Roe 2006 Pinot Noir (EolaAmity Hills); $42. Silky and smooth, this
89
Owen Roe 2006 Sharecropper’s Pinot
Noir (Oregon); $24. From Eola Hills
89
Pali 2006 Shea Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Willamette Valley); $48. The Shea
oak zooms up from the glass, giving this ripe Pinot
Noir a smoky backdrop for its clean, crisp, tart red
fruits. The oak flavors continue right through to a
finish with a fair amount of bacon fat in it. It’s distinctively different from Le Cadeau’s Diversité bottling, with different appeal. If you want more barrel
flavors, this is the way to go. —P.G.
tle, elegant, supple Pinot Noir, with appealing fruit
flavors of plum and black cherry, highlighted with
pretty cola and sweet herb flavors laid against silky
tannins. The wine is beautifully balanced and
expands nicely in the back of the throat, while
revealing nuances and details that keep bringing
you back for more. —P.G.
Pinot Noir made in Oregon, year in and year out.
It’s firm and full-bodied, perfectly ripe, with lovely
spices that range from pepper to cinnamon and allspice. The fruit lingers in the midpalate, round and
tangy, with flavors of cherry and plum. It’s a thoroughly rich and satisfying wine that is big enough to
work with dark poultry, salmon and even veal. Best
Buy. —P.G.
is loaded with effusive cherry fruit and scents of
perfumed cherry blossoms. It’s open and warm and
packed with red fruits, and is the most accessible of
the Owen Roe 2006 Pinots. Enjoy it for its forward
fruit and immediate pleasures. —P.G.
fruit, this is elegant and varietal, with a lovely black
olive streak along with tight, spicy cranberry
fruit. —P.G.
vineyard, known for its deep blackberry fruit, is chosen by at least a dozen (probably more) winemakers
for single-vineyard status. This version is spicy and
floral, lushly scented with cherry blossom and showing elegant, well-structured fruit. The only drawback comes on the finish: the acids seem chalky and
out of balance with the rest of the wine, which is
quite elegant and lovely. Otherwise, it’s a champ.
—P.G.
89
Pali 2006 Momtazi Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Willamette Valley); $48. This is
interesting—a California take on Oregon Pinot
Noir. It’s sleek and spicy, with a racy spine and a
very tart, dry mouthfeel. The fruit is peppery and
hard; like hard candy with an herbal streak. The
wine hides its almost 15% alcohol quite well, but it
will reward ample breathing time. —P.G.
89
Phelps Creek Vineyards 2006 Judith’s
Reserve Pinot Noir (Columbia Gorge);
$42. There is nothing shy about the 2006 Judith’s
Reserve—at 15.4% alcohol it makes a bold statement about scale. But it delivers the flavors that
many consumers seek—penetrating and lingering
raspberry and cherry fruit, accented and defined
by a pungent streak of mint and herb. The spicy
aspect will thrill some and puzzle others, but it
marks the estate-grown fruit as quite distinctive.
—P.G.
89
Soléna 2005 Guadalupe Pinot Noir
(Yamhill-Carlton District); $35. This
popular vineyard, now almost 20 years old, yields a
brambly Pinot Noir which might pass for a Sonoma
Coast bottling. More elegant, almost steely, than
many of the other Soléna vineyard designates, this
offers cooler fruit flavors of rhubarb and wild strawberry, along with anise and dried herb. —P.G.
89
Soléna 2005 Grande Cuvée Pinot Noir
(Willamette Valley); $25. Kudos to
winemaker Laurent Montalieu for holding the line
on price. His Soléna Grande Cuvée is one of the
four or five best value Pinots in Oregon, if not the
entire country. Nine vineyards contribute to the
blend, a spicy and herbal mix of rhubarb, pepper,
tomato leaf, black raspberry, currant and rose hips.
The flavors and scents are detailed and nicely consolidated into a complex and harmonious wine. It
will open up nicely with a couple of hours in a
decanter. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
89
Torii Mor 2006 Dundee Hills Select
Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills); $52. This is a
barrel selection from the winery’s three Dundee
Hills Vineyards, a step or two up from its Oregon
and Willamette Valley bottlings. It’s more precisely
crafted, with a focus on a midpalate flavors of wild
cherry and currant. The acids keep it sharp and
bright, and the tannins are smooth and supple, so
the wine glides into a seamless finish, which turns
almost lemony. —P.G.
W I N E S
89
Hannah Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Willamette Valley); $45. Hannah vineyard is a
select block of Tualatin Estate, and carries the same
set of herbal, pine needle aromatics. But the fruit is
more intense, with deeper cranberry and raspberry
flavors, more weight and a stiffer finish. The time in
barrel adds clove and cinnamon to the mix. Tannins are ripe and hard, so give this some extra time
to breathe. —P.G.
88
Brandborg 2006 Love Puppets Pinot
Noir (Umpqua Valley); $30. Brandborg
has established a style that is well-suited to the
locale, and their Pinots are perfectly balanced and
mix in spices and fresh herbs with the tart, cool climate fruit. This is a crisp, unpretentious style of
Oregon Pinot. —P.G.
88
Coelho 2006 Paciência Pinot Noir
(Willamette Valley); $35. This is the
winery’s third vintage, and they continue to make
elegant, supple and snappy wines. This is the ripest
to date, and has a healthy 14.7% alcohol level, but it
retains many of the spice and herbal highlights that
keep it interesting. The fruit brings on berries,
plums and some of the brambly character of Zinfandel; the barrels add clove and nutskins. Cola and
sassafras wrap into the sharp finish. —P.G.
88
Methven Family Vineyards 2005
Reserve Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley); $55. This is an interesting bottle from
sourced fruit (rather than estate-grown). Ripe
blackberry and black cherry fruit is matched to ripe
tannins; the wine is dark, almost sultry, and the flavors flow seamlessly across the palate. There is a
spicy lift and a hint of pickle barrel (American oak?)
that concludes the presentation. —P.G.
88
Phelps Creek Vineyards 2006 Becky’s
Cuvée Pinot Noir (Columbia Gorge);
$26. This blend of grapes from three different
Columbia Gorge vineyards is immediately appealing, with round, smoky, relatively soft and accessible flavors. It’s smooth and seductive, offering
bright cherry fruit augmented with that smoky
streak and a whiff of tobacco in the finish. —P.G.
88
Torii Mor 2006 Pinot Noir (Oregon);
$29. The black label Torii Mor Pinot is the
entry-level wine, clean and fresh with clear varietal
character. The fruit flavors are tart and lean, but
combined with the bouquet offer elegant details with
herb and earthy components. The alcohol is a sensi-
R E V I E W E D
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ble 13.8% and as the wine breathes open it suggests
lightly smoked ham and hints of pepper. —P.G.
88
Torii Mor 2005 Temperance Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills);
88
Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley); $25.
87
Brandborg 2006 Bench Lands Pinot
Noir (Umpqua Valley); $20. Here is
87
Cooper Mountain 2006 Mountain Terroir Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley);
87
86
Battle Creek 2005 Pinot Noir
(Willamette Valley); $50. Rex Hill’s for-
$60. A rich, plummy color, Torii Mor’s Temperance Hill bottling is the best of the lineup of single
vineyard releases. It’s a spicy, muscular wine, showing tart acids that are not yet resolved. The fruit is
accented with barrel notes of dill and herb, and the
tannins are on the green tea side. —P.G.
One of Oregon’s better Pinot Noir values year after
year is this basic bottling from Willamette Valley
Vineyards. The 2006 is quite spicy with peppery
highlights, and the red fruits are sleek and tart,
though not green or thin. The core brings warm,
somewhat round fruit flavors of pie cherry, plum,
and a hint of toast from 20% new Allier barrels.
—P.G.
your perfect salmon wine, light in color and offering
plenty of fresh, herbal flavors along with tart currant and cranberry fruit. It does not have the color
or the density of Yamhill county Pinots, but that
makes it more suitable for a meal, and the herbal
side of the wine is nicely matched to its juicy acids
and tight tannins. —P.G.
$45. This young wine is showing well upon release,
with light flavors of strawberry and cherry, well-balanced tannins and a streak of cola running through
the finish. Drink young. —P.G.
Sweet scents of cherry and cola lead into a juicy,
fruit-forward Pinot that mixes strawberry jam and
raspberry pie. It sags a bit in the midpalate, then
regroups and lays on some chewy tannins. The
(apparent) acidification feels chalky and not quite
resolved, but overall it’s a tasty bottle of wine.
—P.G.
mer winemaker Aron Hess has a hand in this pleasant Pinot. It’s fairly soft and shows some black
cherry fruit along with barrel flavors of butterscotch
2 0 0 8
I S S U E E
and nougat. The wine fades away rather quickly.
—P.G.
86
Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills); $25. In
general, Eola Hills Pinots lean more to the peppery and herbal side of the line, compared with
pricier AVAs in Yamhill county. This well-made
wine shows good color and concentration, and it’s
ripe enough that the herbaceousness is a feature, if
not entirely an asset. There’s a nice lift to the midpalate, which leaves a residual impression that finishes a bit vinegary, as the wine winds down into
flavors of black olive and herb. —P.G.
86
Torii Mor 2006 Deux Verres Reserve
This blend of many vineyard lots seems less than
the sum of its parts. Pungently herbal with characteristic Oregon tomato leaf tannins, its fruit remains
hidden beneath the tannins. Age may enhance its
beauty, but for the moment it remains tight and
unyielding, with suggestions of heat around the
cranberry/pomegranate fruit. —P.G.
86
Torii Mor 2005 Anden Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Eola-Amity Hills); $60. This is
surprisingly light, with insubstantial fruit flavors of
tart cranberry and red currant. It doesn’t seem to
have much weight or depth; perhaps it’s just shut
down, as Pinot Noir will do. The wine just hits the
palate and falls away, which is not consistent with
previous efforts. —P.G.
88
Sineann 2006 Abondante Red Wine
(Oregon); $24. “Abondante,” which
88
Sineann 2006 Red Table Wine (Oregon); $16. A fine bottle right in line with
translates as “abundant,” is a blend of Cabernet
Sauvignon, Syrah, Zinfandel, Grenache and Merlot.
Bright and yes, generous, it’s packed with the flavors of just-picked raspberries. It could pass for a
young vine Zin, but whatever you call it this is really
a delicious bottle of fruit-powered red wine meant
for immediate enjoyment. —P.G.
past vintages. It’s a bright, brambly potpourri of tart
red fruits with plenty of acid to lift it up. Raspberry
and cherry candy powers the front end, while clean
tannins finish up the back. Don’t look for complexity, but what’s here is fresh, fruity, and has none of
the herbal or vegetal flavors that pollute so many
cheap red blends from Oregon. —P.G.
87
Brimstone 2006 Red Wine (Columbia
Valley); $17. This Cab/Merlot/Syrah
blend is very much in a Washington style, with crisp
acids and tart berry and currant flavors, wrapped in
chocolate and showing a few specks of pepper, presumably from the Syrah. It’s solid and well-made
and a good example of how Oregon vintners are
breaking out of the Pinot box. —P.G.
OREGON
WHITE WINES
91
Soléna 2006 Pinot Gris (Oregon);
$20. Winemaker Laurent Montalieu
88
Coelho 2006 Renovação Pinot Gris
(Willamette Valley); $20. Coelho’s own-
88
O’Reilly’s 2006 Pinot Gris (Oregon);
$13. O’Reilly’s is the budget label for
87
Benton-Lane 2007 Pinot Gris
(Willamette Valley); $16. Benton Lane’s
really shines with Pinot Gris, and the vibrant nose
and lush textures of his 2006 Soléna continue an
unbroken string of successes. Packed with fresh
pear fruit, annotated with pineapple and laced with
vanilla, this delicious wine keeps resonating through
the palate and into a lively, spicy finish. No malolactic fermentation, no oak. Just a lovely expression
of great fruit. —P.G.
ers are of Portuguese descent and Renovação translates as renewal. This is a lively bottle of white wine
that will certainly renew your interest in whatever
food you are serving it with. It has subtleties of citrus rind, Asian pear, sweet grass, pink grapefruit
and Meyer lemon, nicely mingled and set against
brisk acids. —P.G.
Owen Roe, featuring an attentive wolfhound on the
label. Crisp and bracing, this is loaded with textured
pear and apple fruit, flavors of barrel fermentation
and wonderful pearskin highlights. Best Buy. —P.G.
OTHER RED WINES
PINOT GRIS
reliable, stainless-steel fermented Pinot Gris does
not go through malolactic fermentation. The wine
is fresh and scented with citrus, grapefruit and wintergreen. Crisp acids lift the palate and add hints of
spicy pear. Refreshing and elegant. —P.G.
91
91
OTHER WHITE WINES
Abacela 2005 Reserve Tempranillo
(Southern Oregon); $35. This is a sub-
stantial wine whose raspberry, pomegranate and
wild cherry flavors are enhanced with striking minerality. The aromas suggest more to come as the
wine develops, offering teasing hints of mint, vanilla
and lead pencil. Give this plenty of cellaring and see
what happens. —P.G.
88
Phelps Creek Vineyards 2006 Celilo
Vineyard Merlot (Columbia Gorge);
$24. The Celilo vineyard, located on the Washington side of the Columbia Gorge appellation, is one
of the most unique in the region. This ripe, almost
liquorous Merlot is bursting with sappy cherry fruit,
buttressed with tangy acids. The structure is here to
more than support the weight of the wine and its
alcohol, just under 15%. Barrel flavors of bourbon
and vanilla dominate the finish. —P.G.
Elk Cove 2007 Pinot Gris (Willamette
Valley); $19. This is a fruit-powered
wine, loaded with fresh pear, melon and tropical
flavors. It shows no sign of having suffered from
the wet, cool weather that hit Oregon during the
2007 harvest. It seems riper than the perfectly balanced ’06 bottling, with lower acids and a streak of
vanilla and coconut wrapping up the finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
91
Sineann 2007 Pinot Gris (Oregon);
$18. This is not your typical Willamette
Valley-style of Pinot Gris. It’s loaded with spicy, textural fruit flavors: green apple, Bartlett pear, orange
slices and tangy lime rind. The detail is marvelous,
and the bright acids make this a natural companion
to sushi. Winemaker Peter Rosback has been
spending a month a year in New Zealand; this may
be the happy result. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
90
Sineann 2007 Riesling (Willamette
Valley); $18. The excellent Medici vine-
yard supplies the fruit from vines approaching 30
years of age. It’s a good Oregon rendition of a German Kabinett, quite tart and juicy with the alcohol
at just 11%. Perfect for summer sipping, it’s got a
mix of citrus, white peach, gooseberry and surprise!
—a streak of hazelnut on the finish. —P.G.
87
Dijon Clone Chardonnay (Willamette
Valley); $17. Ripe and buttery, this forward, fruit-
driven wine matches its apple and melon flavors
with plenty of nutty, toasty caramel. It’s a rich gold,
and rather soft, suggesting that now is the time to
enjoy it at its best. —P.G.
OTHER U.S.
RED WINES
MICHIGAN
83
CONNECTICUT
84
Hopkins Vineyard 2005 Estate Bottled
Cabernet Franc (Western Connecticut
Highlands); $20. This has all of the easygoing,
good raspberry and blueberry flavors that a Cabernet Franc should. The nose is rich in raspberry and
pepper, and on the palate, the wine has good structure and length. Pair with lasagna or a spiced meat
dish for extra appeal. —S.K.
IDAHO
86
Koenig Vineyards 2005 Three Vineyard Cuvée Syrah (Snake River Valley); $20. A successful trio of tobacco, red
raspberry fruit and spice gives this Idaho Syrah character. Full-bodied tannins and balanced acids mean
it will age well, but pop it open now with some
grilled lamb and enjoy a good wine from an emerging, and consistently improving, wine region. —S.K.
85
Koenig Vineyards 2005 Cuvée
Amelia Reserve Syrah (Snake River
Valley); $50. This Syrah leads with a very pretty
nose—floral but spicy, and redolent of blueberry.
On the palate, it offers dry, peppery red berry flavors, but a wave of charry smoke tends to overp o w e r. P a i r i t w i t h a n e q u a l l y s m o k y
dish—mesquite, grilled meat—and it might temper the bite. Overall though, a good wine, from a
region that is producing interesting Syrahs. —S.K.
84
Snake River 2005 Arena Valley Vineyard Red Blend (Idaho); $18. A pretty
nose of blackberry and cinnamon rolls into full, luscious flavors of juicy berries and spice in this inky
purple treat. The wine offers balanced flavors and
enough tannins to give it heft, but overall, it’s easy
drinking and appealing. A nice effort from a region
showing an evolving talent for reds. —S.K.
Ciccone 2005 Madonna Cabernet
Franc (Leelanau Peninsula); $30. From
the winery run by the pop star’s family, this friendly
Cabernet Franc—named after the Material Girl herself—offers simple, likeable flavors of raspberry and
pepper. Though slightly grapy and jammy, the wine
has a pleasant mouthfeel and decent finish. —S.K.
83
Ciccone 2005 Madonna Pinot Noir
(Leelanau Peninsula); $30. The Cic-
cone family produces easygoing wines that while
not extraordinary, are consistently good. This Pinot
starts with a spicy nose of raspberry and cherry and
rolls into balanced, integrated red berry and spice
flavors. Offers simple subtlety that will pair well
with elegant cheeses and meats. —S.K.
NEW MEXICO
84
Vivác Winery 2006 Tempranillo (New
Mexico); $20. An alluring nose of plum,
leather and spice leads on this red, and on the
palate, structured, big fruit flavors follow. It’s jammy
but has grip, and though slightly one dimensional,
the wine has character. A good showing. —S.K.
83
D.H. Lescombes 2005 Syrah (New
Mexico); $19. This wine has a full, ripe
character to it that will appeal to fans of jammy
Syrahs, and its big, mouthfilling flavors give the kind
of New World character that does well with grilled
meats and robust cheeses. Though not terribly complex, it’s a fun wine from an emerging region.
—S.K.
NEW YORK
88
Bedell 2005 Musée (North Fork of
Long Island); $65. This elegant red
blend—the new flagship wine from Bedell—starts
with a soft, juicy nose with hints of cedar and cinnamon. On the palate, a burst of cherry, plum and
blackberry flavors mingle with spice and smooth
tannins. The finish has an appealing spin of exotic
spices. Though ready to drink now, the wine will
benefit from a few years in the cellar, allowing its
elements to even further integrate. -—S.K.
87
Bedell 2005 Reserve Merlot (North
Fork of Long Island); $48. Bedell con-
tinues to raise the bar for Long Island Merlot with
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this offering. A rich, savory nose of meat, leather
spice and dark berry leads into a poised balance of
savory spice, rich fruit, acids and tannins. The wine
has a friendly brightness about it but overall, is
restrained and integrated. —S.K.
87
Chateau Lafayette Reneau 2001
Owner’s Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
(Finger Lakes); $55. Good Cabernet character all
around. The nose is spicy and full, with tobacco,
pepper and red berry fruit to start. On the palate,
good tannic structure and a balance of big fruit,
leather/tobacco and acid offer ageability and
finesse. A good food wine—pair it with grilled beef
this summer. —S.K.
86
Lakewood 2006 Cabernet Franc (Finger Lakes); $16. Lakewood hits the mark
86
Long Point 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon
(New York); $24. Bravo to Long Point
85
Long Point 2005 Merlot (New York);
$17. This is a muscular Merlot. Meaty
85
Lucas Vineyards 2006 Limited Release
Cabernet Franc (Finger Lakes); $18.
85
Ventosa 2005 Cabernet Franc (Finger
Lakes); $23. This balanced and personal-
with this affordable Cabernet Franc. Earthy, attractive aromas of spice and pepper unfold into flavors
of raspberry, cherry and more pepper. The wine
has depth and weight without being heavy, thanks
to a decent amount of acid. The finish is slightly
weak but overall, a good wine and friendly. —S.K.
for making a Cabernet that counts in a cool climate.
Rich aromas of anise, mocha and tobacco lead into
structured, complex flavors of red berry, cigar and
cassis. Spicy but balanced and slightly big, the wine
will be great with grilled meat and stew. —S.K.
spice is balanced by cherry fruit, and the mouthfeel
is smooth and rich. Big and ripe, the wine will do
well when paired with bigger meat dishes. —S.K.
The nose on this red is exotic—allspice, fruitcake,
pepper—and on the palate, flavors of cherry and
raspberry are likeable, if a little thin. Mediumbodied tannins and a bright finish give the wine
extra points. Pair with a red sauce pasta dish or
meat for added enjoyment. —S.K.
ity-laden wine starts with aromas of dried herbs and
cherry and offers poised flavors of red berries. Tannins and an acid underlay give it class. —S.K.
2 0 0 8
I S S U E E
THE WINE ENTHUSIAST
BUYING GUIDE
84
Atwater 2005 Cabernet Franc (Finger
Lakes); $24. This has a balance and ele-
gance that recommends it above many New York
wines of the same variety. An expressive nose of red
berry, coffee, some spice leads into balanced, appetizing flavors of cherry and pepper with a smoky, rich
edge. Dry and food-friendly, this has class. —S.K.
84
Hudson-Chatham 2006 Cabernet Franc
(New York); $17. An intriguing nose of
violet and pepper introduces this New York wine
from producer Hudson-Chatham, followed by
pretty spice and floral flavors that end on a delicate
and dry note. Varietally correct and poised. —S.K.
84
Macari 2004 Estate Bottled Cabernet
Franc (North Fork of Long Island); $27.
Macari’s Cabernet Franc is true to the grape, with its
cherry and blueberry flavors and balanced tannins.
The wine is full, mouthfilling and touched with an
oaked spiciness that adds character. Overall, a
friendly wine that can be enjoyed alone, or paired
with poultry or Greek food. —S.K.
84
Sheldrake Point 2005 Cabernet Franc
(Finger Lakes); $17. Blueberry and
cherry on the nose and palate of this mediumbodied red are cheerful and likeable, though overall
the wine lacks dimension. An enticing wave of pepper and spice adds to the package. A Cabernet
Franc with personality. —S.K.
84
Sheldrake Point 2006 Barrel Reserve
Merlot (Finger Lakes); $24. This wine
hits all the right notes—gamey spice, a touch of minerality, savory, rich fruit. A touch of oak adds muscle
and the overall package is satisfying. —S.K.
83
Anthony Road 2006 Pinot Noir (Finger
Lakes); $20. A nose of dried cherry and
earthy spice leads into red cherry flavors mingled
with mellow cinnamon spice and pepper. Dry and
subtle, this offers a good tannin structure that means
it will pair well with myriad meat dishes.
—S.K.
83
Damiani 2006 Cabernet Franc (Finger
Lakes); $18. A slightly funky, earthy nose
gives way here to a red that offers pepper, tobacco
and a touch of tart cherry on the palate. The flavors
and tannins are good and balanced, though the wine
is simple. —S.K.
83
Damiani 2006 Reserve Pinot Noir (Finger Lakes); $23. Earthy, spicy aromas of
cigar and pepper mingle with more subtle, fragrant
notes in this Pinot. The slight smoke continues on
the palate, offering a touch of bitterness, but there’s
also an appealing range of cassis and cherry there,
too. Simple but appealing. —S.K.
83
Fulkerson 2005 Cabernet Franc (Finger
Lakes); $14. An appealing nose of full red
83
Hazlitt 1852 Vineyards 2005 Merlot
(Finger Lakes); $19. Smoky raspberry
fruit and punchy pepper lead this Cab Franc. On
the palate, good acidity and balanced fruit flavors
offer elegance. There’s a touch of oak overkill here,
but overall, a nice wine. —S.K.
TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS
and gamy spice lead on the nose of the Merlot from
New York, and on the palate, the smoky oak turns a
touch bitter. Cranberry and cherry fruit mingles with
spice and weighty tannins, meaning this wine will
do well with rich meat stews and duck. —S.K.
83
The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new
releases and selected older wines evaluated by Wine
Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters.
On a regular basis the Buying Guide includes reports on
special tastings and the wines of specific producers.
Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include
Senior Editor/Tasting Director Joe Czerwinski, Assistant
Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Senior Editor Susan
Kostrzewa and Contributing Editor Michael Schachner
in New York, European Editor Roger Voss in Bordeaux,
Italian Editor Monica Larner in Rome, West Coast
Editor Steve Heimoff in Oakland and Contributing
Editor Paul Gregutt in Seattle. If a wine was evaluated
by a single reviewer, that taster’s initials appear following
the note. When no initials appear, the wine was evaluated by two or more reviewers and the score and tasting
note reflect the input of all tasters.
Approximately 500 wine reviews are included each
month in the Buying Guide. Each review contains a score
on the 100-point scale, the full name of the wine, its suggested national retail price, and a tasting note. If price cannot be confirmed, $NA (not available) will be printed.
Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated.
Hudson-Chatham 2005 Merlot (New
York); $20. Scents of leather, tobacco and
wooded spice lead attractively on the nose, but on
the palate, the flavors of savory spice and red berries
lead to some friction. The tannins are healthy, the
finish long, but the wine wants more balance. Still, it
has character and will improve with food. —S.K.
83
Keuka Spring 2005 Reserve Cabernet
Franc (Finger Lakes); $25. The nose—
83
Long Point 2005 Syrah (New York);
$20. A nose of spicy oak and berry leads
83
Rooster Hill 2005 Estate Cabernet
Franc (Finger Lakes); $20. The nose on
83
Shaw 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon (Finger Lakes); $20. Robust tannins and a
jammy, slightly candied—contradicts the good flavors
in the glass. Bright raspberry and a touch of spicy oak,
with some pepper on the finish. —S.K.
into flavors of dried herbs and cranberry on the
palate in this New York Syrah. Lacking some dimension and staying power, it’s still recommended for
its elegance. —S.K.
this red has an overly big, jammy quality, but on the
palate, it’s good: Tobacco, black pepper, cherry with
a slightly smoky edge. Good balance and a decent
finish give it added kick. —S.K.
nice character of plum, cherry and spice recommend this wine, though it has a slightly one dimensional simplicity to it. Pair with burgers and grilled
lamb to bring out the good spice notes. —S.K.
Tastings are conducted individually or in a group setting
and performed blind or in accordance with accepted
industry practices. Price is not a factor in assigning scores
to wines. Only wines scoring 80 points or higher are
included. When possible, wines considered flawed or
uncustomary are retasted. In some instances production
figures are included as an aid to consumers.
ABOUT THE SCORES
Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular
wine. Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the
accompanying tasting note to learn about a wine’s special
characteristics.
Classic 98–100:
Superb 94–97:
Excellent 90–93:
Very Good 87–89:
Good 83–86:
Acceptable 80–82:
The pinnacle of quality.
A great achievement.
Highly recommended.
Often good value; well
recommended.
Suitable for everyday consumption; often good value.
Can be employed in casual, lesscritical circumstances.
Wines receiving a rating below 80 are not reviewed.
SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS
Editors’ Choice wines are those that offer excellent quality at a price above our Best Buy range, or a wine at any
price with unique qualities that merit special attention.
Cellar Selections are wines deemed highly collectible
and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine
cellar to reach their maximum potential. A Cellar
Selection designation does not mean that a wine must be
stored to be enjoyed, but that cellaring will probably
result in a more enjoyable bottle. In general, an optimum
time for cellaring will be indicated.
Best Buys are wines that offer a high level of quality
in relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or
formulae for determining Best Buys, but they are generally priced below $15.
SUBMITTING WINES FOR REVIEW
Wines should be submitted to Wine Enthusiast’s editorial
office at 103 Fairview Park Drive, Elmsford, NY 10523.
Inquiries and submissions should be addressed to Tasting
Director Joe Czerwinski at 914.345.8463 or email
[email protected]. There is no charge for submitting wines. We make every effort to taste all wines submitted for review. But there is no guarantee that all wines
submitted will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the
magazine. All wines must be accompanied by a submission form, which may be downloaded from our Web site
at http://www.winemag.com/buyingguide/about.asp.
LABELS
Labels are paid promotions. Wineries and winery
representatives are given the opportunity to submit labels,
which are reproduced and printed along with tasting notes
and scores. For information on label purchases, contact
Denise Valenza at 800.315.4397; fax 800.315.4576; or email
[email protected].
PENNSYLVANIA
86
Chaddsford 2005 Syrah (Pennsylvania); $28. Intriguing all around, this dis-
plays earthy notes of truffle and meat on the nose,
and balanced flavors of full raspberry and spicy
caramel on the palate. Though a touch angular, the
wine has elegance and good fruit. —S.K.
TEXAS
83
Inwood Estates Vineyards 2004 Unfiltered Tempranillo-Cabernet Sauvignon (Texas); $40. A mellow nose of tobacco and
cedar introduce flavors of tea leaf, tobacco and red
berry in this red blend. Though the flavors are fresh
and balanced, the wine has a bitter edge that’s hard
to embrace. Pair with a hearty beef dish. —S.K.
mint, cinnamon, sawdust and black licorice. When
that subsides (maybe in another 12 months), expect
racy and complex berry flavors, pinpoint tannins
and preserving acidity. Hold for another two years;
then drink through 2014. Imported by Moët Hennessy USA. Cellar Selection. —M.S.
91
MontGras 2005 Quatro Reserva
(Colchagua Valley); $16. In every vin-
tage this blend of Cabernet, Malbec, Merlot and
Carmenère gets a little better, and the 2005 is the
best yet. It’s a ripe one for sure, with licorice, kirsch
and earthy warmth on the nose. The body is big
and the wine tastes of berry jam, licorice and chocolate. Balanced and long, with bitter espresso on the
finish. Drink now through 2010. Imported by Palm
Bay International. —M.S.
88
Casa Lapostolle 2006 Estate Bottled
Cabernet Sauvignon (Rapel Valley);
$13. Lots of dark fruit on the nose is bolstered by
VIRGINIA
83
The Williamsburg Winery 2005 Trianon Cabernet Franc (Virginia); $32.
Earthy, peppery spices aromas are followed by subtle waves of black pepper, raspberry and cinnamon.
A simple wine that lacks elegance, but pair it with an
herbed poultry dish and it should open up. —S.K.
CANADA
RED WINE
85
Pillitteri 2002 Family Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Niagara Peninsula);
$50. This is an intriguing red, with its nose of dried
fennel, eucalyptus, and rosemary, and on the palate,
pretty flavors of cassis and anise. Though gentle,
the wine has balance and character. Imported by
Wine Emporium. —S.K.
CHILE
CABERNETS & BLENDS
94
Casa Lapostolle 2005 Clos Apalta
Limited Release (Colchagua Valley);
$75. Clos Apalta continues to push the envelope
for Chilean icon wines. It’s always been a blend of
four or five Bordeaux grapes, and the 2005 is every
bit as structured, tight and ripe as any predecessor.
There is an intense blanket of new oak that tastes of
W I N E S
cola, herb and mint notes. The palate is snappy and
nice, with broad scope, a kiss of oak and ripe darkfruit flavors. The finish is a little peppery and drying, yet the fruit hangs in there for a while before
fading away comfortably. Another good-for-themoney Cabernet from Lapostolle. Imported by
Moët Hennessy USA. Best Buy. —M.S.
88
Estampa 2006 Carménère-Merlot
(Colchagua Valley); $9. Seems as
though Estampa did well with its value-priced red
wines in 2006. This Carmenère-Merlot blend is
dark, sweet and nicely balanced. It gets the important things like tannins and acidity right, and then
really pours on the ripeness of fruit. Delivers a lot
for an under-$10 wine. Imported by Estampa USA.
Best Buy. —M.S.
87
Baron Philippe de Rothschild 2006
Escudo Rojo (Maipo Valley); $15.
Spice and heat rise from the bouquet of this 14.5%
heavyweight. Talk about ripeness taken to the limits; this wine is saturated to the core, with weighty
dark-fruit flavors and medicinal, brown sugar notes
on the finish. Not stewed or burnt, but drink now
for all its richness and ripeness. Imported by Centerra Wine Company. —M.S.
87
Santa Alicia 2006 Reserve Cabernet
Sauvignon (Maipo Valley); $9. Laven-
der and licorice on the nose; the palate mixes shy
black cherry and cassis flavors with a bit of Chile’s
patented leafy character. The finish is round and
offers a touch of vanilla and mocha. For the money
R E V I E W E D
I N
T H E
J U LY
this is solid and very easy to drink. Imported by
Halby Marketing. Best Buy. —M.S.
86
Santa Alicia 2006 Compass Navigator’s Reserve Red Wine (Maipo Valley); $11. Santa Alicia is blending Carmenère,
Cabernet Sauvignon and Cab Franc here, and the
results are good. The wine isn’t overly graceful or
complex, but it offers earthy aromas in front of
lively red-berry flavors. Tight tannins and wayward
acids offer bite and grab, which should subside over
the next year or so. Imported by Halby Marketing.
Best Buy. —M.S.
86
TerraMater 2006 Vineyard Reserve
Cabernet Sauvignon-Carmenère
(Curicó Valley); $20. A good but awkward
attempt at a bigger, more saturated, more serious
wine. The nose tells you that it’s ripe, but there’s
some reduction in there too. The palate is revved
up and tannic with turbulence along the way. Spice,
chocolate and heat all play a part on the berry-driven palate. Imported by A to Z Importers. —M.S.
86
Valdivieso 2005 Eclat (Maule Valley);
$25. Good for Valdivieso that they are
willing to experiment with a Mourvèdre-led blend
that also contains Carignan and Syrah. This is racy
and a bit tangy, with plenty of old-vines acidity making the wine a bit jumpy and scouring. Probably
best with food; it’s a bit astringent on its own.
Imported by Laird & Company. —M.S.
86
Valdivieso 2006 Single Vineyard
Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo
Valley); $18. Plenty of oak is draped on this wine.
The bouquet is led by sawmill-like aromas and
black cherry, while the woodspice and resiny flavors are every bit as dominant if not more so than
the cassis, cherry and strawberry notes that seem
secondary. A healthy, sturdy structure helps it out,
but it’s probably a little too oaky for its own good.
Imported by Laird & Company. —M.S.
85
Domus Aurea 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley); $55. Early aro-
85
Santa Rita 2006 120 Cabernet Sauvignon (Rapel Valley); $9. Dark to the
mas of clay, putty and aged cheese give way to more
normal aromas of cassis and berries. But throughout, the mouthfeel is tough due to tight, rugged
tannins and raw, scouring acidity. Maybe it’ll settle
if given another two years time, but that’s risking it.
Imported by Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S.
eye, with perfectly adequate raspberry and black
2 0 0 8
I S S U E E
plum aromas. The palate is a touch acidic and
tangy, but even though it’s lean it packs ample cassis, plum and herbal influences. Solid for the
money, with a feel-good personality. Imported by
Palm Bay International. Best Buy. —M.S.
85
Undurraga 2006 Aliwen Reserva
Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot (Central
Valley); $12. Sweet raspberry aromas show a
slight touch of pickle. The palate rattles around a
bit before settling on cherry and raspberry, and the
acidity is a little elevated given the medium depth
of fruit. Meets the grade of a reasonably good wine.
Imported by Undurraga USA. —M.S.
CARMENÈRE
90
Apaltagua 2006 Envero Carmenère
(Colchagua Valley); $15. For the sec-
ond straight year, Envero is a more elevated wine
than Apaltagua’s basic Carmenère, and it shows all
that’s good in the variety. The bouquet blends ripe
black fruit with pepper and spice, while the palate
is full of plum, blackberry and molasses. It’s big but
lively, with ripe tannins and pure flavors. Drink now
through 2009. Imported by Global Vineyard
Importers. Best Buy. —M.S.
88
Santa Alicia 2006 Reserve Carmenère
(Maipo Valley); $9. Definitely a riper,
more solid version of Carmenère with blackberry,
pine, herbs and chocolate on the nose. The palate is
typically herbal but it’s full of smooth, simple darkfruit flavors and spice. Tasty, wholesome and well
worth a go in this category. Imported by Halby
Marketing. Best Buy. —M.S.
88
Santa Carolina 2006 Reserva de
Familia Carmenère (Rapel Valley);
$18. Very deep in color and aromas, this slams you
with black fruit, herbs and saucy oak aromas. The
palate is stable, with dark prune, fruit cake and
acidity giving it an extra burst of life. Finishes with
some faux oak flavor, butter, pepper and heat.
Imported by Carolina Wine Brands USA, Inc.
—M.S.
87
Chilcas 2006 Reserva Carmenère
(Maule Valley); $10. Spice and pepper
aromas act as a welcoming party, with cherry and
raspberry scents sitting in reserve. The palate is
herbal but fairly fruity, with fresh acidity and a solid,
if not the most deep and lasting, finish. Despite
showing some typical leafy qualities, this is good,
young Carmenère. Imported by Hemingway &
Hale. Best Buy. —M.S.
87
De Martino 2006 Legado Reserva
Carmenère (Maipo Valley); $15. A lit-
86
La Playa 2005 Block Selection Carmenère (Colchagua Valley); $11.
85
Santa Rita 2005 120 Carmenère
(Rapel Valley); $9. If you don’t mind a
85
Valdivieso 2006 Reserva Carmenère
(Central Valley); $14. A one-note wine.
tle sweet, dense and pasty on the nose, and that’s
also how the wine plays out. It’s a ripe style of Carmenère, with brooding but not overly expressive
black-fruit flavors. Ripeness is clearly not an issue as
it shows no vegetal or herbal notes. Simply big, bold
and not terribly unique. Imported by Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S.
There’s some tingle and bounce to the nose, which
exhibits the variety’s herbal character. The palate is
fresh, a touch sheering, and good overall; cherry flavors are in the lead, with vanilla playing second fiddle. Long and a bit grating on the finish. Carmenère
with 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. Imported by Cabernet Corporation. Best Buy. —M.S.
touch of herbal pickle and rhubarb on both the
bouquet and palate, then this inexpensive Carmenère will do the job. It offers modest red plum
and herbal flavors with a bit of tartness and spice.
Has good texture and overall balance. Imported by
Palm Bay International. Best Buy. —M.S.
It’s round and roasted, and it settles more toward
savory than bright, fruity or lithe. The palate is on
the thick side, with roasted black plum and other
baked flavors. Fleshy, with a saucy, mildly herbal
finish. Imported by Laird & Company. —M.S.
MALBEC
93
Viu Manent 2005 Viu 1 (Colchagua
Valley); $65. What a lush and spectacu-
lar New World Malbec. Buttery aromas of coconut
and black fruits mix with herbs, mineral and char to
create a near-perfect bouquet. The palate is saturated and balanced by great natural acidity, which
frames the blackberry and herb flavors in excellent
light. Meaty, textured, fruity and balanced: What
more could you want? Drink now–2010. Imported
by Baystate Wine Co. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
90
Viña Pérez Cruz 2003 Cot Reserva
Limited Edition Malbec (Maipo Valley); $22. It’s not often that we come across
Chilean Malbec (Cot) with several years of bottle
age, but this offers that and a little more. The nose is
pure, with herbal hints and plenty of sauvage character. Roundness and depth give it length on the
palate, which is endowed with solid berry flavors
and proper savory accents. A wine with personality
that’s drinking perfectly right now. Imported by
South American Wine Imports. —M.S.
89
Viu Manent 2006 San Carlos Estate
Single Vineyard Malbec (Colchagua
Valley); $25. Deep as always, but it steers clear of
being too reduced and jammy. In what was a warm
year, this Malbec has a mild granular, ultrarich quality that swallows some of the wine’s spine and acidity. What’s left is a rich, big red with coconut,
vanilla, chocolate and just enough zest to keep it
squarely balanced. With 7% Cabernet Sauvignon.
Imported by Baystate Wine Co. —M.S.
88
Viu Manent 2006 Reserva Malbec
(Colchagua Valley); $14. Fleshy and
88
Viu Manent 2006 Secreto Malbec
(Colchagua Valley); $13. Nice on the
chunky, with plenty of leather, mint and malt courtesy of a hefty barrel influence. Definitely a saturated, big-boned style of Malbec, and while it has
lots of berry at its core, there’s also a savory quality to
the wine that prevents it from being pure jam. Finishes slightly bitter, with espresso and dark chocolate
accents. Imported by Baystate Wine Co. —M.S.
nose, with mineral, crushed herbs and blackberry.
The palate is equally good, with rich plum, cassis
and blackberry flavors. This wine touches up
against the high class with its rich mouthfeel and
overall poise. Easy to recommend given its price.
Imported by Atlanta Improvement Co. Best Buy.
—M.S.
MERLOT
89
Viña Bisquertt 2006 Casa La Joya
Gran Reserve Merlot (Colchagua Valley); $13. Round, floral, fruity and just a bit bretty.
Almost everything is right about this value-priced
wine. The fruit is dark and veers toward black cherry
and plum, while the feel is good. Finishes with a
nice run of dry oak and chocolate flavors. Imported
by Prestige Wine Group. Best Buy. —M.S.
88
Casa Lapostolle 2006 Estate Bottled
Merlot (Rapel Valley); $13. Smooth,
88
Reserve Merlot (Colchagua Valley);
fruity and fairly deep for a basic Merlot. The palate is
medium-to-full in terms of weight and bite, with ripe
berry fruit and light oak notes leading to a long,
chocolaty finish. Textbook everyday Chilean Merlot,
which means it’s pleasant and easy to drink.
Imported by Moët Hennessy USA. Best Buy.
—M.S.
$11. There’s very little difference between this
Merlot and La Joya’s so-called Gran Reserve. Both
are entirely solid, ripe, a touch bretty and friendly
as can be. This wine has more plumpness and less
structure than its big brother, but it’s nice if you
like soft, round, chewy berry fruit and not much
tannic bite or acidic roughness. Imported by Prestige Wine Group. Best Buy. —M.S.
87
Santa Alicia 2006 Reserve Merlot
(Maipo Valley); $9. Starts with a clean
cherry and berry nose, which sets up the fresh,
well-layered palate. Flavors of red fruits are ripe
and medium sweet, while touches of oak, butter
and pepper emerge on the finish. A tasty everyday
wine. Imported by Halby Marketing. Best Buy.
—M.S.
CHARDONNAY
90
Viu Manent 2007 Reserva Chardonnay (Casablanca Valley); $14. For a
87
Valdivieso 2005 Reserve Chardonnay
(Casablanca Valley); $14. Plump and
85
Espiritu de Chile 2007 Chardonnay
(Central Valley); $11. This new line of
85
Valdivieso 2006 Chardonnay (Central
Valley); $8. Campfire aromas smolder on
ready to drink, this is big and meaty stuff, and in
the end it’s like so many ultraripe, fat Chardonnays
from Chile. This doesn’t mean that there isn’t citrus
on parade, all ending in a finish on tangerine alley. If
it lacks nuance it makes up for it in ripeness of fruit.
Imported by Laird & Company. Best Buy. —M.S.
wines has shown some good signs. But like this
Chard, the wines often come up just short of being
individual. Here, the aromas are generic pear and
peach, while the palate is round and shows mango,
pear and decent acidity. A good wine for everyday
occasions. Imported by Racke USA. —M.S.
the nose, indicating some oak treatment. That
woody character carries onto the palate, where the
wine mixes round melon flavors with an almost barbecued spiciness. Fortunately, the acidity is sound.
Imported by Laird & Company. Best Buy. —M.S.
85
Gran Reserve Chardonnay (Colchagua
Valley); $13. Generic pear, citrus and vanilla aromas are well-thrown together, while the palate offers
ripe banana and melon flavors. The feel is lively
enough but is showing some signs of flattening out.
Walnut is evident on the short, fast-fading finish.
Imported by Prestige Wine Group. —M.S.
first effort from Casablanca, Viu Manent has hit a
home run. This wine is a classic New World Chard,
meaning it’s liberally oaked, vibrant, ripe and full of
tropical fruit. But along with the obvious there are
also notes of cinnamon, mineral, exotic apple and
butterscotch. Imported by Baystate Wine Co. Best
Buy. —M.S.
87
Concha y Toro 2007 Casillero del Diablo Reserve Chardonnay (Casablanca
Valley); $7. Mass Chardonnay from Chile doesn’t
come much better or more consistent than this. It’s
toasty on the nose, with candied, lightly creamy
banana and citrus flavors. Very nice as a fresh young
wine, with a touch of heat on the finish. Great for
picnics and backyard summer parties. Imported by
Banfi Vintners. Best Buy. —M.S.
W I N E S
R E V I E W E D
I N
T H E
J U LY
2 0 0 8
I S S U E E
SPIRITS
accents the cinnamon-nutmeg spiciness.
TEQUILA
eyed. Ends masterfully in a velvet rush of sweet
oakiness, cocoa and cake frosting.
AVERAGE (80–84)
VERY GOOD (85–89)/RECOMMENDED
Tres Rios Añejo 100% Puro de Agave
Tequila NOM 1482 CRT (Mexico; AV Imports,
Columbia, MD); 40% abv, $50. The bouquet
offers scents of burning rubber, pickle brine,
burnt matches and gunpowder. Entry is toasty
and road tar-like; by midpalate the taste profile
offers incongruous but doable flavors of vanilla,
oak, honey, gunpowder, dill, green olive and
metal. Weird but oddly attractive.
Tres Rios Reposado 100% Puro de Agave
Tequila NOM 1482 CRT (Mexico; AV Imports,
Columbia, MD); 40% abv, $45. The nosing
passes find scents of pickle and olive brine,
burnt match, gunpowder, used ashtray and oversteamed asparagus. Entry is semisweet, tobacco-like, slightly honeyed and caramel-like; at
midpalate the oak presence is clearly evident as
the flavor softens into a plumpish taste that features notes of toffee, nougat and peanut butter.
Ends up nicely briny and medium-sweet.
COGNAC
Jacques Cardin VSOP Cognac (France;
Sidney Frank Importing Co. Inc., New
Rochelle, NY); 40% abv, $18. Appealing
scents of white raisins, baked pineapple, new
leather, marshmallow, orange peel and orange
marmalade. Entry is tart and bittersweet, with
well-balanced tastes of citrus, sweet oak and
nougat; the midpalate is firm, nicely acidic and
woody but lacks depth and layering. Concludes
off-dry and savory.
Jacques Cardin Apple Flavored Cognac
(France; Sidney Frank Importing Co. Inc., New
Rochelle, NY); 40% abv, $18. The aroma leans
more toward dried apple peel than fresh apple,
making for slightly austere aromatics. Entry
tastes include apple butter, apple sauce, and
spice; the midpalate features sweet, ripe apple
with touches of oak, almond butter and paraffin.
Ends well, as the apple peel flavor gracefully
Jacques Cardin Jasmine Flavored Cognac
(France; Sidney Frank Importing Co. Inc.,
New Rochelle, NY); 40% abv, $18. The per-
Bruichladdich Rocks Islay Single Malt Whisky
(Scotland; Winebow Inc., New York, NY);
46% abv, $47. The inviting bouquet offers aro-
fumed scent of jasmine dominates the bouquet.
Entry is off-dry, floral, and leafy; at midpalate
the jasmine becomes all that you taste, overwhelming the Cognac base. Finishes more
liqueur-like than brandy-like in its flowery, grapy
sweetness. Wasn’t as intriguing as I’d hoped.
mas of fruitcake, banana nut bread, sweet malt,
crispy pork rind, sweet oak, vanilla, red grapes
and blackberry jam. Entry is sweet and grainy; at
midpalate the taste profile suddenly bursts with
red fruit presence and oaky vanilla. Finishes
clean as a whistle, chewy and concentrated.
SINGLE-MALT SCOTCH
SUPERB (90–95)/
HIGHLY RECOMMENDATION
CLASSIC (96–100)/
HIGHEST RECOMMENDATION
BenRiach Dark Rum Wood Finish 15 Year Old
Speyside Single Malt Whisky (Scotland; Preiss
Imports, Ramona, CA); 46% abv, $95. The
BenRiach Madeira Wood Finish 15 Year Old
Speyside Single Malt Whisky (Scotland; Preiss
Imports, Ramona, CA); 46% abv, $95. After
the first rush of alcohol the spirit diminishes,
leaving behind big, accessible smells of grain,
malt, light caramel, light fudge and almond butter. Entry is big flavored and spirity, with
upfront tastes of marshmallow, buttercream, egg
cream, dark chocolate, nougat and vanilla bean.
Luscious; a Speyside classic.
BenRiach Pedro Ximenez Sherry Wood Finish
15 Year Old Speyside Single Malt Whisky
(Scotland; Preiss Imports, Ramona, CA); 46%
abv, $95. Heady aromas of dark chocolate,
cocoa butter, cream sherry, dates, black raisins
and sweet barley malt. Entry tastes include
honey wheat bread, prune Danish and lots of
honey; by midpalate the taste profile increases,
as hardy flavors of marzipan, treacle, blackberry
preserves, cherries covered in dark chocolate
and orange-flavored chocolates bombard the
taste buds. Not to everyone’s taste but I love it.
BenRiach Tawny Port Wood Finish 15 Year
Old Speyside Single Malt Whisky (Scotland;
Preiss Imports, Ramona, CA); 46% abv, $95.
A more austere and citrusy bouquet than the
previous two BenRiachs, with latent smells of
oak, vanilla, nutmeg and old leather. Entry is
satiny, plummy sweet, and ripe; the midpalate is
deep-running, concentrated, chocolaty and hon-
delightful, understated bouquet smells of
marshmallow, white raisins, chalk, sawdust and
gently ripe, delicately fruity, earthy scents. Entry
is malty-sweet and medium-textured; the taste
profile turns more intensely fruity at midpalate,
offering white peach, white chocolate, wet earth
and pastry dough. Ends ripe, creamy and lithe.
Bruichladdich Infinity Islay Single Malt
Whisky (Scotland; Winebow Inc., New York,
NY); 55.5% abv, $75. The first nosing passes
find surprising floral notes; following aeration,
scents of kippers, brine, seaweed and asphalt
emerge. Entry flavors include spirit, bacon, pork
roast and smoke; the midpalate is concentrated
and spirity, with tastes of almond, dry malt, black
pepper and cocoa. Ends vibrantly oaky, with
clear evidence of vanilla cream, chocolate and
Sherry.
Bruichladdich Turnberry Links 14 Year Old
Islay Single Malt Whisky (Scotland; Winebow
Inc., New York, NY); 46% abv, $75. Upfront
there are notes of pineapple, papaya and mango,
but then the bouquet goes flat in the second
stage of nosing. Entry is subdued, mildly nutty,
grainy and malty, but without a clear direction;
the taste profile at midpalate picks up some
steam as flavors of vanilla, maple and dry breakfast cereal are added. Concludes light, lithe and
nuanced.

Zorzettig 2007 Pinot Grigio

Transcription

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