2006 Bereche L`Instant - Cork Aged - Champagne Ployez

Transcription

Gimme da LdH!
Issue 11 June 2011
www.champagnewarrior.com
A Walk into the Cellars of
Ployez-Jacquemart’s
Liesse d’Harbonville
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Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
June 2011
1
Featuring
Champagne Warrior ™
Issue 11
June 2011
Introduction
Talking the Talk & Walking the Walk
page 3
The Champagne Warrior
is
Brad Baker
Partnership with CellarTracker!
page 5
How Wines Are Evaluated
page 6
Edited by Megan Bushnell
My Favorite Wines in This Issue
page 7
Champagne Warrior is published six times a year at an
electronic subscription rate of $90.00 US per year. For
more information on subscriptions including special
discounts for trial subscribers and CellarTracker!™
users,
please
visit
our
website
at:
http://www.champagnewarrior.com or contact us via
email at: [email protected]
Ployez-Jacquemart’s Sensational Tête de Cuvée
page 8
Top Wines from 1997 and 1998
A Look Back at Two Overlooked Vintages
page 14
All contents © Copyright 2011 by
The Champagne Warrior. All rights reserved.
1997 - page 15
1998 - page 26
The Wines of Nicolas Feuillatte
No portion of this newsletter may be reproduced or
distributed via electronic or hard copy without the
written consent of the publisher. There is one
exception to this - producers, importers, distributors,
retailers, wine consultants, restaurant establishments,
and any others who consider themselves “in the
business” may use the reviews and scores contained in
this newsletter to promote the sale of the reviewed
Champagne or sparkling wine provided credit is given
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questions on this policy, please contact us at:
[email protected]
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Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
The Face of le Centre Vinicole Coopérative
page 37
A Candid Conversation with Chantale
Bara
page 55
Champagne News and Updates
page 58
One to Watch – Daniel Savart
page 61
Unsolved Mysteries – Nicolas Feuillatte
page 62
Champagne Tasting Notes
page 63
Sparkling Wine Tasting Notes
page 70
Issue Indexes & Performance Tables
page 72
June 2011
2
Talking the Talk and Walking the Walk
Everyone, myself included, can be oblivious to what is so
often simply staring you right in the face. I’ll find myself
in the wine shop, eyeing the Champagne selections and
moaning to myself about how there is nothing new to try
– the shelves are always full of the same ol’ stuff.
Yet it is that same ol’ stuff that actually deserves a second
look.
Louis Roederer, Perrier-Jouët, Pierre Péters,
Taittinger, Ruinart, and many other producers are all
currently making excellent, affordable wines, especially
in the non-vintage category. These wines are downright
delicious and most of them improve with a few years of
cellaring, allowing them to round out nicely and become
some of the best buys in the world of wine. It is
unfortunate that these producers are so often overlooked
by those in the search of the Next Big Thing or those who
suffer from the unquenchable desire to try something new
and different every single time. (Yes, that would be me.
But only sometimes.) It’s good to remind myself once in
a while that although “different” can be palatable and
interesting, at the end of the day it’s what tastes good that
lingers in the mind.
I’m as guilty as the next guy for showering high praise
onto small producers who are doing as much as they
possibly can to care for their vineyards and improve the
quality of their wines. I extol their virtues in every issue
of this newsletter and I will continue to do so, but
meanwhile, it doesn’t hurt to step back and take in whole
picture.
For instance, Louis Roederer runs more
biodynamic and organic vineyards than 5-6 average-sized
growers combined. And like the top growers who sell off
their second pressing, so do a lot of negociants (who are
many times the size of a grower). I know it may buck the
currently “cool” way of thinking, but the top negociants
and the top growers are not all that different when you
look at the details that matter.
While there is no denying the substantial increase in
quality that a number of growers, like Bereche,
Chartogne-Taillet, and Tarlant (to name a few) have
displayed over the last decade, they aren’t the only ones
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
whose wines are progressing by leaps and bounds. In
fact, some of the most stunning improvements I have seen
recently were from non-vintage wines made by the likes
of Veuve Cliquot, Moët and Chandon, Mumm, and
Philipponnat (yes, you read that right!). Now, the
previous sentence is considered outright hearsay to many
a self-proclaimed Champagne aficionado, and calling
these particular non-vintage wines not only palatable but
of good quality will surely label me a blubbering idiot to
some. But I’m fairly certain these same folks who think I
don’t know anything about Champagne wouldn’t perform
well in a blind tasting of these wines versus some of their
grower favorites – especially if the Big Name examples
have a little bit of bottle age on them. Comparing the
entry-level wines these well-known producers were
releasing at the turn of the century to what they are
putting on the market now is like comparing mac&cheese
in a box to homemade. Furthermore, having had a chance
to taste upcoming releases still in the works, the
difference between “then” and “now” Big Name cuvées
would be even more pronounced. Just like the best of the
trendy, small producers, these big guns have improved
their production too – through sheer dedication, blood,
sweat, and tears, helped along by a happy marriage of
natural farming practices and improved technology.
It is also important to remember that the workhorse wine
of just about any Champagne house, big or small, is their
high-production, entry-level grade, non-vintage Brut. I’m
talking about Chartogne-Taillet’s Cuvée Sainte-Anne,
Louis Roederer’s Brut Premier, Pol Roger’s White Label,
Pierre Péters Cuvée de Réserve, Veuve Clicquot’s Yellow
Label, Diebolt-Vallois’ Blanc de Blancs, Mumm’s
Cordon Rouge, etc. These are the most accessible
symbols of their producer’s style and quality. Most
producers live and die by their non-vintage wine, given
that it represents 50-80% of the total sales volume.
Having a rare, super special, high-quality vintage wine is
nice, but when it only represents 5% of your total sales, it
is hard to make a living off of it.
June 2011
3
It seems obvious that producers who can make a highquality, entry-level wine normally can also make
exceptional, higher-end wines when given the right
materials (i.e., from the right vintage). Yet producing
high volumes of a great tasting, entry-level, non-vintage
wine, and doing so year after year, is something that
should be applauded and recognized. It is one thing to
make great wine from a specific piece of great land in one
year and quite another to make great wine annually from
50+ parcels of variable quality and three, five, or ten-plus
year’s worth of reserve wines (which come from vintages
in which Mother Nature may or may not have given you
good grapes!). That is true talent.
Many “it” producers have been trumpeted as the next
Krug or Salon. Far fewer have actually delivered on the
promise. It seems to me that Champagne has come to
embrace newcomer producers like they are playing their
rookie year in professional sports leagues. Attention is
lavished almost indiscriminately on the newest guy to talk
a good game. Of course, it’s not all hype – a lot of
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
newcomers show great promise and some will become
instant all-stars. Others will take a while to figure it all
out, and still others will never amount to much. To me, it
all begs the question: Would you rather have an
established, all-star player who is working his butt off
trying to further improve his game, or an unknown
quantity who is hot and trendy but whose future
performance is uncertain? It isn’t enough to talk the talk;
these new guys have to be able to walk the walk, too. I
will always encourage you to try new things, but don’t
forget about the folks that have been around the block and
know the game. You might be surprised at how good
they are today. I know I was, and it is something I won’t
forget again.
Cheers,
Brad Baker
The Champagne Warrior
June 2011
4
Partnership with CellarTracker!™
The most common feedback that I received after the
release of Issue 1 was to “get the content online”. A
steady stream of requests for on-line article hosting and a
web searchable database continually arrived in my inbox.
There was/is a Champagne Warrior website of course, but
it functioned as a portal for subscriptions and a few
random thoughts more than anything else. The newsletter
is the main product I work hard to put out, and the bulk of
my time and energy is spent learning about and tasting
Champagne and sparkling wines. Enhanced on-line
content was always planned, but it wasn’t in place for the
launch of Issue 1.
As I began to draw up a plan and timeline for enhanced
online content, it struck me that going the do-it-myself
route or hiring a great web designer wasn’t going to
deliver the end result I was looking for. I’ve always been
a believer in sticking to your core and outsourcing or
partnering with those who are experts at things outside of
your realm of expertise. My vision was to have full,
searchable access available for all Champagne Warrior
content, and I wanted it to be done in a user-friendly and
acceptable way that did more than just bring up a note. I
wanted to give users the ability to easily access notes in
the way they wanted with minimal effort.
Being a long time CellarTracker! user, I have always
enjoyed how founder Eric Levine has been able to
integrate user and professional notes into his industryleading cellar management software. When it comes to
wine, CellarTracker! has become my “wine homepage”.
Among the many incredible benefits CellarTracker!
provides are: instant view of my cellar contents including
value and location, and professional and other user
reviews on both wines I own and am interested in. The
more I looked at CellarTracker!, the more I realized that
there would be no better way to offer Champagne Warrior
online content than through CellarTracker!. So, I talked
with Eric and quicker than you can say “Vieilles Vignes
Francaises,” my dream partnership with CellarTracker!
became a reality.
As such, all Champagne Warrior subscribers who are also
paid CellarTracker! subscribers have access to the
following searchable online content:
-
articles
tasting notes
issue content (ability to see all content
organized by issue, just like the electronic
print version)
In addition, all dual subscribers can instantly see
Champagne Warrior reviews of wines in their cellar or
wines they search for while using the Cellartracker!
database. All subscribers of CellarTracker! can view
Champagne Warrior numerical ratings, but the review text
is only available to Champagne Warrior subscribers.
Now, this brings up the question of cost. After all, you
have to subscribe to not only The Champagne Warrior,
but also CellarTracker! to access the online content. This
can get expensive. A subscription to Champagne Warrior
is $90 per year and CellarTracker! is at least another $30.
It can start to add up, and if I were a subscriber to The
Champagne Warrior, I would expect to receive the online
content for my $90.
The one twist to this is that many of my subscribers are
already CellarTracker! users (there are over 70,000 of
them). I wanted to find a way to offer up the online
content, but I didn’t want to “double” charge those who
already subscribe to CellarTracker!. As such, I have
come up with the following solution/offer:
-
Anyone who subscribes to CellarTracker! can
subscribe to The Champagne Warrior for $60/year,
which is a discount of $30 off of the normal price
Why am I doing this? I believe that this makes sense and
gives you fair value for your money. That said, I’d love
to hear what you have to think, so if you have any
thoughts (whether good or bad), feel free to let me know
by contacting me at [email protected].
Also, if you haven’t seen it yet, please be sure to check
out the beta of the “next generation” CellarTracker!.
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
June 2011
5
How Wines Are Evaluated
All wines are judged on the same scale, regardless of origin, price, vintage, or reputation. A $10 sparkling wine from Canada
is held to the same standards as a $200 tete de cuvée Champagne. Wines are evaluated on how they taste today and on the
potential for future improvement (if any); for wines that are expected to change over time, every effort is made to provide a
“peak pleasure” drinking window in the tasting note.
Rather than give a single score, a grading range has been chosen for the following reasons:


There is variation between representative bottles of any wine – multiple bottles of the same wine will not all be identical
in taste and aroma profile. While I could certainly nail a particular bottle down to a single point value, attempting to
summarize the entire production of a wine using one number is not something that I believe in.
There is variation by taster: we are all human. Mood, stress, health, environment, tasting order, etc… can all impact the
way a wine is interpreted. Even with the best of intentions and tightly controlled conditions, some variation will
undoubtedly occur. Giving a score range accounts for this.
The scale used to judge/grade wines is:
97-100
Legendary Wine; An All-Time Great
80-84
Good Wine; Enjoyable
93-96
Spectacular Wine; A Classic
70-79
Acceptable Only in the $4-$12 Category
90-92
World Class Example of Its Type
60-69
Poorly Made Wine at Any Price
85-89
Very Good Wine
Below 60
Avoid at All Costs
Wines are tasted in various settings, although private, controlled tastings are preferred. Whenever possible, multiple
glasses/bottles of a wine are tested and the wine is evaluated over a period of hours to observe temporal changes. If a wine
appears to be “off”, damaged, or unrepresentative, it is not graded or reviewed; instead, if available, a new bottle is evaluated.
Every effort is made to taste the wines from a Riedel Restaurant Champagne glass. This glass is used because it performs at
a high level and is very affordable (less than $8 per stem).
The majority of wines reviewed in this newsletter come from personal purchases and, as noted previously, multiple bottles
are sampled whenever possible. Other sources for tasting notes include trade tastings, winery tastings, samples from
distributors/importers, and private tastings/contributions.
Please read the reviews as well as look at the scores – numbers don’t tell the entire story. An overachieving $8 wine graded
at 79-81 may be much more interesting than an underperforming $150 bottle given an 87-89. I often look for value when
making purchasing decisions and recommendations, so remember to take into account my tone when a $300 wine is rated at
87-89; it may be tasty, but it isn’t the wisest outlay of cash, in my opinion.
The goal of Champagne Warrior is to give you an honest opinion of different Champagne and sparkling wines produced
throughout the world. I hope to give you an idea of what to expect from a wine, and to help guide you in determining where
to spend your hard-earned dollars. While I certainly hope you agree with my reviews, I want to provide value in any way I
can. Without regard to points, my greatest hope is that the reviews provided will give you a feel for the wine and help you
decide whether you wish to pursue it.
I should also mention that I hope no one takes a negative review of a wine they made or like personally. I know that all
winemakers put their blood, sweat, and tears into every bottle they produce. Their wines are like their children. It is not my
intention to belittle anyone, but I do feel obligated to report what I taste in terms of flavor, reaction, and opinion. Please
remember that I bear no grudges and am always happy to sample new releases or new disgorgements from a winery I may
not have been happy with in the past. Good wines should be celebrated, but subpar efforts should be pointed out too.
Finally, please do not put any stock in how long a review is for a particular wine. Some great wines have short reviews,
while I may wax nostalgic about a mediocre wine. The length of the wine review depends on a lot of things, but wine quality
isn’t one of them.
Hey, This Yellow Box Means Something
You will notice some wines whose tasting notes are highlighted in yellow boxes. These wines are not necessarily the best
wines in the issue, but those that stand out the most; these wines have that “something special”. They will be excellent
examples of a vintage/style/terroir, incredible values, high interest wines, and/or a flat-out kick butt bottle of bubbly.
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
June 2011
6
My Favorite Wines in This Issue
The following wines are my favorites from this issue (Yellow Box Wines). These aren’t necessarily the highest rated
wines of the issue, but those that have had the greatest impact on me. They are listed below in alphabetical order.
Page
Champagne Warrior
NV Bonnaire Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs - 2007 base
64
NV Bonnaire Rosé - 2007 base
64
NV Cedric Bouchard Roses de Jeanne Les Ursules - pure 2008
66
1998 Dom Pérignon
32
1995 Nicolas Feuillatte Palmes d'Or
52
1997 A. Margaine Spécial Club
21
67
1998 Piper-Heidsieck Rare - magnum
34
1988 Ployez-Jacquemart Liesse d'Harbonville
12
2004 Varnier-Fannière Grand Vintage
69
NV Varnier-Fannière Rosé - 2007 base
69
1998 Vilmart Grand Cellier Rubis
29
Issue 11
June 2011
7
Ployez-Jacquemart’s Sensational Tête de Cuvée
One of my favorite prestige cuvées is PloyezJacquemart’s Liesse d’Harbonville. This wine sports
power, finesse, gorgeously tactile flavor, and almost
always surprises me with a unique smoothness that
seems to appear magically over time. It is one of those
rare wines that, even as I recognize its potential to age,
I am nevertheless consistently overjoyed to watch
overachieve – often developing into something more
than I originally expected. This cuvée is a testament to
the hard work, dedication, and desire to constantly
improve that has driven Ployez-Jacquemart over the
years.
In 1966, Ployez-Jacquemart released the first vintage of
their first prestige cuvée. This made Ployez-Jacquemart
one of the early players in the prestige cuvée market,
which was quite a remarkable feat for a small producer
(40,000-50,000 bottles per year back then). Most of the
big guns of the time were only just beginning to roll out
their prestige wines with vintages from the 1960s. A
little history of the winery and the people behind it may
explain why this upstart of a company took such a
confident leap of faith.
grapes from these vineyards, but the young couple
decided to instead make some of their own wine. In
1950, Marcel and Yvonne’s son Gérard and his wife
Claude began their work in the family business.
Canvassing the Champagne landscape of the 1960s and
witnessing the labor and success of others who bottled
their best grapes into special prestige cuvées, Gérard
and his mother Yvonne decided to work toward a
similar dream of their own which would eventually be
called the Liesse d’Harbonville. This wine would
reflect the best grapes that Ployez-Jacquemart had
access to. Since they were responsible for growing
excellent Chardonnay in the Côte des Blancs and
Montagne de Reims, that was the logical place to start.
The wine was originally going to be called Marie
Liesse d’Harbonville after a relative of Yvonne’s, but
when Gérard began designing the label, the name
turned out to have too many characters. So he chopped
off the first part and turned it into Liesse d’Harbonville
to make it fit. Marie Liesse is an old French first name
(no longer common) that translates to “joyful Marie” –
d’Harbonville was simply Marie Liesse’s last name.
By chopping up the name, the Joy of Harbonville
remains, but the honor bestowed upon Yvonne’s
relative was unfortunately lost.
Leading with their top-notch Chardonnay, the first
vintage of the wine in 1966 was made as a Blanc de
Blancs. This wine and the next release, the Blanc de
Blancs of 1969, were definite successes, but rather than
boxing themselves into the BdB mold, the family soon
started working with what the harvest gave them. For
example, 1971 and 1982 were both blends of
Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier grapes,
1978 was a Blanc de Noirs and 1975, 1976, 1979, and
1985 were again Blanc de Blancs. (Mysteriously, 1973
was reportedly made, but no bottles or notes exist in the
family’s cellar – the assumption is that if it was made, it
could have either been a blend or another Blanc de
Blancs.) Each harvest dictated which grapes were used,
malolactic fermentation was sometimes carried out,
sometimes not, and usage of oak vs. steel was also left
to the current winemaker’s whimsy.
The new label design for Liesse d’Harbonville
(used starting with late-released 1996s)
Origins
Marcel Ployez married Yvonne Jacquemart in 1930,
and together they received vineyards from Yvonne’s
family. The Jacquemart family had previously sold the
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
The vintages from 1966-1985 were well-regarded, but
the 1988 vintage was a key turning point in the wine’s
trajectory for two reasons. First, in the mid-1980s, the
Ployez family held a tasting amongst themselves in
which their 1975 Millésime was put up alongside the
1975 Krug. They all agreed that the Ployez-Jacquemart
was a very nice 1975, but the family was simply
astounded by the quality of the 1975 Krug. Second,
Gérard and Claude’s daughter, Laurence, joined the
family business in 1988, and she was instrumental in
June 2011
8
setting as a personal and family goal the creation of a
wine as great as the 1975 Krug.
After much soul-searching and many wine-making
trials, the family decided that the path to greatness
would be paved with small oak barrels, forgoing
malolactic fermentation, allowing the wine to rest on its
lees for much longer than the usual 3-5 years a vintage
wine sees, and utilization of all three Champagne grape
varieties, including, of course, the family’s superlative
Chardonnay. And so the new Liesse d’Harbonville was
born. Consisting of 66-70% Chardonnay from Premier
and Grand Cru vineyards in the Côte des Blancs and
Montagne de Reims, and 30-34% split between Pinot
Noir from Mailly and Pinot Meunier from Ludes, a
powerhouse of a wine was created. And in fact, the
1988 remains my favorite vintage of this cuvée to date.
The Wine!
Laurence took over winemaking duties completely in
1990 and has carried on the basic 1988 “formula” for
the Liesse since then. All of the wines in the blend
spend at least four months in 225L oak casks that range
in age from 2 to 10 years (15% are changed out every
year when 2-3-year-old barrels are cycled in as the new
stock). The wines are racked, but lees are not stirred
since limited yeast impact is desired – the goal is to
instead focus on the fruit. The blended wine sees at
least ten years on the lees under crown cap and is dosed
with 4-5 g/L of traditional liqueur. (Crown cap and
traditional liqueur were chosen for uniformity; the last
thing Laurence wants in the Liesse is variation.)
any faults and make necessary changes quickly. This
means that any given vintage of the Liesse is disgorged
over multiple years. All bottles are stored in the lowest,
coldest level of the Ployez-Jacquemart cellars. The
intent is to allow the wine to age as slowly as possible
and, again, maintain its freshness for shipment.
Laurence desires that every bottle of wine arrive in the
customer’s hands fresh, leaving him/her to decide when
and how to drink or age it.
My love affair with the wine started with the current
incarnation, first produced in 1988. Any vintages prior
to that are not only very hard to find (a few bottles of
the 1966 are still in the cellar, but Laurence cannot
recall having tasted a bottle older than 1975!), they
were also made in a very different style. And although
I have been fortunate enough to have tasted a few pre1988 vintages, while nice, they lack the pizzazz and
power of the 1988 and younger offerings. I find the
post-1988 versions of the Liesse to be spunky, vigorous,
tart, and wound up for a fight when tasted for up to five
years post-release. After a few years of (practically
mandatory) cellaring, minerals, citrus, apples, peach,
and cream notes create a luscious and mesmerizing
wine – the bucking bronco is tamed by time and
becomes a darn fine riding animal.
The old style Liesse d’Harbonville label
(used through the 1998 vintage)
If you haven’t tried this cuvée, you should. Especially
if you like wines with the influence of oxygenation
from oak, yet which lack characteristics typical of
malolactic fermentation (in other words, spunky, spicy,
tart, and slightly yeasty wines). Vintages currently on
the market are 1996 and 1998, with 2000, 2002, 2004,
and 2005 to follow. I especially recommend trying a
bottle early on and then after cellaring. Even with just
three years of post-disgorgement age, it will begin to
soften its edges and slowly transform. It is a long
journey to complete transformation, and none of the
1988 and later releases have made it there yet, but what
a fun trip to be on. This is one of those wines that is
consistently fabulous and deserves your and all
Champagne-lovers’ attention.
Winemaker Laurence Ployez
All of the bottles are hand-riddled and disgorged to
order in batches as small as 400 bottles. This practice
ensures freshness for shipment, since quality and
consistency is of utmost importance to Laurence; she
maintains that smaller disgorgements allow her to catch
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
June 2011
9
As a side note, I have stated many times that I find the
Liesse to be a completely different wine from the rest of
the Ployez-Jacquemart range. The use of oak, the lack
of malolactic fermentation, the long-aging, the grape
blend itself, etc.… are unique to this cuvée, which has
made it difficult for some consumers to reconcile it with
the typical house style. It was from this feedback that
Laurence has added a new non-vintage wine to her
collection and, as a bonus, it allows the consumer to get
a sample of the Liesse style at a fraction of the price.
This new wine is the NV Extra Brut Passion, and is
every bit a baby Liesse d’Harbonville. Pinot Noirdriven, but still a blend of all three grapes, it sees at
least half of its wines aged in oak and without
malolactic fermentation. Each year, it includes at least
a small amount of Liesse-quality wines in its blend, and
in years where the Liesse is not made, it gets all of
these top-quality wines. The Extra Brut Passion is a
new addition to the Ployez-Jacquemart range (as of
2010) and is slowly replacing the NV Selection.
Vintages Produced
1966
Blanc de Blancs
1969
Blanc de Blancs
1971
Blend
1973
Blend or
unconfirmed
Blanc de Blancs
1975
Blanc de Blancs
1976
Blanc de Blancs
1978
Blanc de Noirs
1979
Blanc de Blancs
1982
Blend
1985
Blanc de Blancs
1988
Blend
1990
Blend
1995
Blend
1996
Blend
1998
Blend
2000
Blend
2002
Blend
2004
Blend
2005
Blend
No vintages made since 2005
Barrels that hold the Liesse d’Harbonville
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
June 2011
10
Ployez-Jacquemart Liesse d’Harbonville Tasting Notes
Vintage
1979
1982
1985
1988
1990
1995
1996
1998
Wine
Ployez-Jacquemart Liesse d'Harbonville
Type
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Rating
89-91
87-89
88-90
89-91
87-89
88-90
88-90
88-91
Potential
89-91
87-89
88-90
91-93
89-91
90-92
89-91
88-91
Rating
89-91
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12
12
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13
Potential
89-91
A stellar Liesse, this is really hitting its stride right now. Toffee, citrus, toast, and white peach are all major players here.
Apple and apricot also make a showing along with a twist of caramel. Like many top 1979s, this is in a very nice place at
the moment and I would recommend popping it soon. This is a very good Blanc de Blancs that illustrates what Liesse
could accomplish in its original incarnation.
(100% Chardonnay, $200-250 US)
Rating
87-89
Potential
87-89
Hard to resist drinking right now, this has the perfect balance of fruit, dough, bread, and spice. The nose showcases a
spicy citrus aspect while the palate displays toasty apple, doughy pear, and some gooey caramelized citrus. While this is
definitely showing its age, it still has plenty of spunk left and is in no danger of dying anytime soon. Perfect right now for
those who wish to appreciate the congruence of youthfulness and maturity.
(Blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier with the majority being Chardonnay; $150-225 US)
Rating
88-90
Potential
88-90
Full of gently spiced citrus, toasty dough, and a hint of creamy pear, this wine is drinking very well right now. The
last Liesse Blanc de Blancs is definitely a different wine from the revamped vintages that followed it, but it is just as
lovely. While this Liesse doesn't possess quite the spunk or zest that the Pinot grapes give to future vintages, it has a silky
mouth feel instead. Perfect for drinking now and an interesting look back in time at past iterations of the cuvée.
(100% Chardonnay, $150-225 US)
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
June 2011
11
My Favorite Liesse d’Harbonville Produced to Date
Rating
Potential
89-91
91-93
The first vintage of the "new formula" Liesse d'Harbonville is also my favorite. Zesty, spicy citrus aromas pull you in and
a swath of full-bodied, yet sharply cutting, mineral-tinged flavors cocoon the tongue. This wine is still tight, with plenty
of apple, tart citrus, and minerality in suspension. Biscuit dough and nutty spice highlights are starting to appear, but it
will take a good five more years for them to release. While of very high quality, patience will be rewarded - wait until this
turns thirty and then watch it unfold and truly shine.
(65-70% Chardonnay, 15-25 % Pinot Noir, 5-15% Pinot Meunier; Fermented and aged in 225L oak barrels; No
malolactic fermentation; $125-160 US)
Rating
87-89
Potential
89-91
This wine continues to calm and has entered its drinking window. Feisty, yeasty, biscuity citrus rules the nose while the
palate expresses minerals, tree nuts and a bright citrus streak. Mature notes of caramel are starting to appear, but this is still
young at heart and has further maturation and calming down to do. Another three years should round this wine out, but
for lovers of mature, spunky, bitter citrus there has never been a better time to drink this than now.
malolactic fermentation; $105-150 US)
Rating
88-90
Potential
90-92
Like many 1995 vintage wines, this bottle has been somewhat overlooked, but for those who were lucky enough to pick
this up, you now own one of the best vintages of this wine ever produced. Currently, this is a bit rambunctious,
characterized by exuberantly yeasty citrus, but creamy, toasty biscuit and fresh apple are starting to give this wine a softer
side. The mix of these aromas and flavors works very well and bodes well for its future, especially after three to five
years.
malolactic fermentation; Disgorged 2005 $105-150 US)
Rating
88-90
Potential
89-91
***Updated Note from Issue 1***
The nose on this is energetically outgoing, with loads of yeast, citrus, bread dough, and nutty sherry. The palate exhibits a
chaotic whirlwind of mineral-laced yeast, vanilla spice, almonds, creamy oak, and buckets of tart, young citrus. There is a
wild child trapped in the bottle and I have no clue if and when it will settle down - the 1988 (the first year of the current
style) and 1990 vintages of this cuvée are still bucking like wild broncos. Regardless, this is a fun drink, worth the tariff,
and one of the top wines from 1996. As a bonus, something tells me I am underestimating this… it just may take another
10-20 years to find out how much.
malolactic fermentation; Disgorged 1st half of 2007; $105-150 US)
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
June 2011
12
Rating
88-91
Potential
88-91
Quite unusual for a Liesse d'Harbonville, this wine appears cool and composed as a youngster (relatively speaking).
Normally Liesse d'Harbonville is wild and unruly, though clearly full of potential at this stage - most are impossible to
read until a few years after disgorgement. (Unfortunately, Ployez-Jacquemart will disgorge the same wine over multiple
years - the 1996 is still being disgorged and shipped right now - without any labeling change, resulting in tastings of
multiple bottles of the “same” wine with varied results.)
Nonetheless, the 1998 is showing its goods already. This doesn't mean it won't improve in the cellar because it surely will.
Rich, nutty, vanilla cream meshes with peach, pear, apple, and citrus to ride a wave of striking acidity up and down, over
and over, pummeling oak, spice, and minerals below. The finish is especially invigorating, leaving the tongue with a
delicious, not-quite-puckering tartness. A very nice 1998, this is recommended for those who like zesty, richer wines.
malolactic fermentation; Disgorged 2008; $90-150 US)
Outside of the Ployez-Jacquemart estate
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
June 2011
13
Top Wines from 1997 and 1998
A Look Back at Two Overlooked Vintages
There is palpable excitement among Champagne fans regarding the 2002 vintage wines. At the same time, we also harbor
fond recollections of the 1996s, but it is worth remembering that these aren’t the only two vintages out there that offer an
interesting and pleasurable experience. In fact, even though they may be the epicenter of all the hoopla, many 1996 and 2002
wines are not yet showing their best colors. Meanwhile, 1997 and 1998 wines are drinking very well right now. And while
once-upon a time they may have been overlooked right after the consecutive and superb 1995s and 1996s, these vintage
wines shouldn’t be ignored. They also present a lovely contrast to one another: 1997 is characterized best by lithe, elegant
Chardonnay and 1998 by sturdier, fruity Pinot Noir. This gives the wine buyer today a varied selection from which to
choose. Even better, now that they are entering their teenage years, most of the wines have begun to exhibit a delightful mix
of lingering youth and new-found maturity. Now is a perfect time to start exploring these vintages or backfilling with star
performers, especially since you can often find top wines at rather reasonable prices from these supposedly “ho-hum”
vintages
The Vines produced good wine in 1997 and 1998 if you know what to look for
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
June 2011
14
The 1997 Vintage
Winter and Spring – The Early Season
Winter 1997 started off on the wrong foot, with
temperatures routinely hovering in the -20°C (-4°F) range
for January. Not since 1985 had such low temperatures
been seen for so many days in a row (almost three weeks).
Even when spring managed a thaw, freezing temperatures
were common all the way through early May. This was
especially troublesome because the vines had started to
bloom by early April. In the end, the on-and-off-again
freezing temperatures destroyed 10% of the buds on the
vines.
Once the temperatures finally started to rise, a sigh of
relief on the tip of the Champenois’ tongues, the storms
came. Rain, hail, and even lightening wreaked havoc on
the vineyards, destroying another 4% of the vines.
Following these unruly and unusual storm events,
humidity enveloped the region and mold followed.
Fortunately, the weather pattern was predictable enough
to allow the vinegrowers to limit the effects of mold,
allowing them just this once to at least attempt to fight
back against Mother Nature’s apparent vengeance. Still, a
number of blossoms never matured into grapes and
production was further limited.
some rain in June and July, the weather was fairly calm
and normal for summer until August, which was a
different story completely. With temperatures reaching as
high as 35°C (95°F) and with a monthly average
temperature of 22.5°C (73°F), the month was 4.5°C (8°F)
higher than normal and the warmest August on record
since 1904. The end result was a sound ripening of the
grapes, indicating to some that the disaster of a vintage
was no longer looking quite so bad.
On August 18th, grape samples were taken from across
Champagne with shockingly variable results. Grapes
appeared to be maturing at very different rates depending
on variety and location. Chardonnay from the Côte des
Blancs was far behind schedule and ripening very slowly.
This was highly unusual and many growers feared that
ripening to full maturity would be an issue in this storied
area. But, as with most vintages, the final determination
would not come until the last second – harvest time!
Harvest – The Comeback Is Complete
The earliest villages started their harvest on September
12th, with Pinot Noir in the Côte des Bar first, but most
didn’t start until the 17th. Great weather continued, and
for the first time since 1969, no rain fell during harvest.
The hot August and warm, dry harvest season had helped
to concentrate the grapes, taking advantage of the natural
yield-reducing effects Mother Nature had so thoughtfully
provided early in the year.
As a result, vines ripened nicely and the once worrisome
Côte des Blancs surprised everyone by reaching ample
maturity. In fact, alcoholic maturity was quite high,
averaging 10.2% (the classic 1996 vintage was only
10.3% and 1995 was only 9.5%). Unfortunately, acidity
leveled off at 8.4 g/L, which is below average and similar
to the values seen last in 1991-1993. (In great years,
acidity is generally over 10 g/L.)
A difficult start to 1997
Summer – The Vines Flourish
The vines flowered in a fairly narrow window of time,
with almost all in full bloom between June 10 th and 13th.
At this point, harvest estimates were possible. Whereas
14,000+ kg/ha was common in previous years, 9,00011,000 kg/ha was the early prediction for 1997, with
Chardonnay appearing to be the most promising. The
AOC limit was eventually established to be 10,400 kg/ha
with an over-yield allowance of up to 13,000 kg/ha.
(Unlike most years in Champagne, there existed the
strong possibility in 1997 that the actual yield wouldn’t
have to be limited by growers to stay under the official
maximum given the less-than-ideal weather to date.)espite
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
The Côte des Blancs rallied at the end of the vintage
June 2011
15
With a strong harvest, the final average yield was 9,423
kg/ha, which was the lowest yield since 1985, but not a
historically low amount (e.g., 1978, 1980, and 1981 saw
only 5,000 kg/ha, give or take). Still, in today’s terms, a
vintage with a yield so low is an anomaly. Typically, the
average yield indicates that a number of vinegrowers are
able to produce far beyond the average yield – and some
produce far less – but in 1997 very few growers were
able to exceed the legal maximum of 10,000 kg/ha. (The
default maximum at the time was 10,400 kg/ha, but each
year can be adjusted upward or downward as deemed
necessary with an absolute maximum of 13,000 kg/ha).
In 1997 local distilleries were less active than usual since
so few extra Champagne grapes were available in the fall.
Total bottle count for 1997 was 245 million bottles,
making it the smallest vintage since 1988 and similar in
size to 1994. However, it is important to remember that
the production area in 1997 was 8% higher than in 1988
because of expansion of the growing region. In the end,
1997 produced the smallest harvest by area since 1985.
The Best Wines of the Vintage
In general, my favorite wines from 1997 are pure
Chardonnay or mostly Chardonnay, but the best of the
Pinot Noirs should not be disregarded. Bollinger’s
Vieilles Vignes Francaises and Paul Bara’s Comtesse
Marie de France are simply marvelous examples of the
year’s 100% Pinot Noir wines, and Pinot Noir-dominant
blends such as Philipponnat’s Clos des Goisses,
Bollinger’s Grande Année, Henri Goutorbe’s Spécial
Club, and Laurent-Perrier’s Grand Siècle Alexandra Rosé
are also amazing 1997s. Still, when you taste a
Chardonnay-dominant wine from 1997 (especially one
from Vilmart, Salon, Taittinger, Diebolt-Vallois, Deutz,
Pascal Doquet, or A. Margaine), you will witness a
different kind of special.
Final Results
With such a strong harvest, the idea that 1997 might
complete a spectacular trio of consecutive vintages
(following 1995 and 1996) began to circulate, but early
tastings didn’t bear this hypothesis out. Winemakers
found the vins clairs from this year to be correct, but not
really anything special. Only Chardonnay from the Côte
des Blancs truly delivered, displaying classically-styled
acidity and beautiful citrus, mineral, and floral notes.
Even today these early results hold true, with Chardonnay
the clear star of the year. Pinot Meunier has also
produced impressive results, preventing some blends from
being smothered by Pinot Noir-dominated heaviness; if
anything this was the surprise performer of the year.
Only Pinot Noir disappointed, and even then the
disappointment wasn’t massive or earth-shattering – Pinot
Noir-led wines simply lack the structure and power of
better years.
Pascal Doquet made a sensational 1997
If you wonder why a certain producer didn’t decide to
make a 1997 vintage wine, that decision more than likely
came down to the answers to two simple questions. First
Question: given that the stellar vintages of 1995 and 1996
used many/all top grapes for vintage-dated cuvées, could
the producer handle production of both vintage and nonvintage wines in 1997? Producing vintage wines many
years in a row means lesser quantities of top grapes used
in base and reserve wines for each of those years,
resulting in declining quality of non-vintage wines.
Maintaining quality of non-vintage wines is especially
important for the larger producers and undoubtedly
played a large part in their decision-making. If stretched,
these producers may have decided to simply fortify
reserve and base wines rather than produce a 1997 vintage
wine. Second Question: With stronger Chardonnay and
weaker Pinot Noir from 1997, did the raw materials
Bollinger did well using 1997 Pinot Noir
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
June 2011
16
offered by a mercurial Mother Nature work with the
house style? Producers who blend the two varieties but
who usually use more Pinot Noir had the most difficult
time producing expected results from 1997’s crop.
Believe it or not, in 1997, 100% Pinot Noir was easier to
do than a blend because it became surprisingly difficult to
balance the dynamic Chardonnay without letting it take
center stage.
Salon created magic in 1997
Fleur de Passion is a top choice from 1997
The drinking window for 1997 wines is now. Most of the
wines that are a blend of grapes, 100% Pinot Noir, 100%
Pinot Meunier, or are composed of lower-tier Blanc de
Blancs have gained a pleasant, creamy maturity while
retaining spunky, youthful acidity. I would recommend
drinking now if you desire this type of youthfulness in
your wines, or holding for just a few additional years if
you favor mature notes. The best wines of 1997,
including Vilmart’s wines and high-end Blanc de Blancs
(Salon, Diebolt-Vallois’ Fleur de Passion, Pascal
Doquet’s Le Mesnil, Pierre Péters’ Cuvée Spéciale, A.
Margaine’s Spécial Club, for example), are the exception
– though drinking nicely at the moment, these rock stars
will either continue to improve or easily hold for well
over a decade more. Keep this in mind when planning on
what to cellar, but realize that just about any 1997 can be
open and enjoyed today.
As mentioned, 1997 was a year for Chardonnay, but even
more so it was a year for Vilmart. Winemaker Laurent
Champs knocked the ball out of the park in this vintage
with thrilling Chardonnay and atypically structured Pinot
Noir. Vilmart’s Coeur de Cuvee and Cuvée Création are
simply mind-blowing, with only Salon’s breathtaking
1997 even coming close to the quality of this pair. So, my
recommendation to you, if you are going in blind and
looking for a wine from 1997, is to go with a Blanc de
Blancs or a wine you know is very Chardonnay heavy.
Or just buy Vilmart. And drink them now!
Not sure which wine to pick in 1997? Take a Vilmart!
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
June 2011
17
Top 30 Wines from 1997
Rank
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
Wine
Vilmart Cuvée Création
Salon Blanc de Blancs
Vilmart Cuvée Création - late dgd magnum
Vilmart Coeur de Cuvée - late dgd magnum
Bollinger Vieilles Vignes Francaises
Vilmart Coeur de Cuvée
Philipponnat Clos des Goisses
Pascal Doquet Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Le Mesnil-sur-Oger
Paul Bara Comtesse Marie de France
Vilmart Grand Cellier Rubis
Pierre Péters Cuvée Spéciale
Henri Goutorbe Spécial Club
Billecart-Salmon Cuvée Elisabeth Salmon Rosé
A. Margaine Spécial Club
Diebolt-Vallois Fleur de Passion
Jean Laurent Blanc de Blancs
Taittinger Comtes de Champagne
Bollinger La Grande Année
Laurent-Perrier Grand Siècle Alexandra Rosé
Deutz Amour de Deutz
Gaston Chiquet Spécial Club
Perrier-Jouet Belle Epoque Rosé
Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Rosé
Jacquesson Avize Blanc de Blancs
Bollinger R.D.
Jacquesson Rosé
Louis Roederer Cristal
Delamotte Blanc de Blancs
Varnier-Fannière Grand Vintage
L. Aubry Aubry de Humbert
Type
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdN
Vintage Rosé
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage Rosé
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage Rosé
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage Rosé
Vintage Rosé
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage Rosé
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Rating
94-96
90-92
88-92
90-92
90-92
90-92
90-92
89-91
88-90
88-90
88-90
88-90
88-90
88-90
88-90
88-90
87-89
87-89
87-89
87-89
87-89
87-89
87-89
87-89
87-89
87-89
86-88
85-87
85-87
85-87
Potential
94-96
91-93
92-94
91-93
90-92
90-92
90-92
89-91
90-92
89-91
89-91
89-91
88-90
88-90
88-90
88-90
87-89
87-89
87-89
87-89
87-89
87-89
87-89
87-89
87-89
87-89
86-88
86-88
85-87
85-87
Rating
94-96
1997 Vilmart Cuvée Création
Page
18
18
19
19
19
19
20
20
20
20
21
21
21
21
22
22
22
22
23
23
23
23
24
24
24
24
25
25
25
25
Potential
94-96
An absolutely stunning bottle of wine, this was full of explosive, creamy citrus, and nutty chocolate on release, with a
long, crisp, orange-filled finish that lingered long after the last sip. Time has settled this down and a beautiful lemon and
tangerine core has evolved, adding elegance to the bold cream flavors. There is still a good deal of spice and some white
chocolate, but this is no longer a flamboyant monster of a wine - it is power and elegance defined.
(70% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir; Single vineyard in Rilly-la-Montagne; 40-50 year old vines; Aged a minimum of 10
months in new oak barrels; Disgorged June 2005; $90-125 US)
Rating
90-92
1997 Salon Blanc de Blancs
Potential
91-93
The nose is open, fresh, and full of citrus, mineral, butter and flowers. On the palate, zesty citrus highlights a wellstructured body with minerals, dots of butter, and orange rind components. A long, lingering finish will bring a smile to
anyone's face. This continues to drink well and exhibits wonderful potential. A top 1997 that proves how excellent
Chardonnay was (in the right hands) in this vintage. A wine to buy if you see it around $200.
(100% Chardonnay; Le Mesnil-sur-Oger; Stainless steel fermentation; No malolactic fermentation; Disgorged July 2008;
$200-400 US)
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
June 2011
18
1997 Vilmart Cuvée Création - late disgorged magnum
Rating
88-92
Potential
92-94
I've been waiting for this wine for years. Thankfully, the debut of the late-disgorged Cuvée Creation magnum did not let
me down. Peach and orange dominate a nose that is remarkably fruity compared to 750 mL versions of this wine. The
palate contributes richer, spicier notes, but the citrus core is both electric and precise. This wine may not be quite as good
as the 1997 was on release (from 750 mL bottle), but this is damn fine and I can't wait to see what it turns into with another
2-3 years in the cellar.
(70% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir; Single vineyard in Rilly-la-Montagne; 40+ year old vines; Aged a minimum of 10
months in new to 3 year old oak barrels; Disgorged March 2010; $275 - $365 US)
1997 Vilmart Coeur de Cuvée - late disgorged magnum
Rating
90-92
Potential
91-93
This cuvée acts similarly to the original release of the 1997 in the 750 ml bottle, but appears younger and more
concentrated. The fruit is both deep and bright, with oranges, tangerines, and lemons soaking up spicy vanilla and butter
notes they have been bathed in. This has wonderful acidity, and while some may find the oak too dominant right now, give
this a few more years and it will round out into something that just about everyone will love. A winning wine and a
spectacular effort for the vintage.
(80% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Noir; Rilly-la-Montagne; 50 year old vines; Aged 10 months in new to 3 year old 225L oak
barrels; Disgorged December 2007; $200-300 US)
Rating
90-92
1997 Bollinger Vieilles Vignes Francaises
Potential
90-92
A top effort for 1997, this wine is full of dark red berries, yeasty biscuits, and spicy, dried red apples. It isn't a blockbuster,
but does manage to draw you in and before you know it, the bottle is gone. This wine shows best after it has time to
breathe and warm up. Also, whatever you do, serve this in a wider glass - a thin flute is just not going to do it justice.
(100% Pinot Noir; From three vineyards planted with ungrafted vines: Clos Chaudes Terres in Aÿ, Clos St.-Jacques in Aÿ,
Croix Rouge in Bouzy; Fermented in oak; No malolactic fermentation; Approximately 3,000 - 5,000 bottles produced;
$600-800 US)
Rating
90-92
1997 Vilmart Coeur de Cuvée
Potential
90-92
Vanilla, citrus and buttered toast make up an excitingly exotic aroma profile. High acidity melds initially into vanilla,
lemon, butter, soft dough, and finally a hefty dose of minerality on its palate. This is a young, powerful, and very good
1997, with plenty of potential. If you decide to drink this in the short term, be sure to give it some air and allow it to warm
up so that all of the flavors have a chance to make an appearance. A top wine from the 1997 vintage.
barrels; Disgorged 2004; $95-135 US)
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
June 2011
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Rating
90-92
1997 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses
Potential
90-92
A toasty nose initially emanates clean citrus flavors, which become more almond-like with time. For me, the highlight of
the palate is the unsweetened almond paste that winds its way around citrus and pear. This is a fairly heavy vintage of Clos
des Goisses and also quite mysterious (of course, the 1998 has even more heaviness and more inexplicable mystery). A
very nice wine to drink now or cellar for the next decade or two. My suspense grows every day in anticipation of this
wine’s unknowable aging curve.
(35% Chardonnay, 65% Pinot Noir; Single vineyard in Mareuil-sur-Ay; Steel and oak fermentation & aging; No
malolactic fermentation; Disgorged March 2007; 4.5 g/L Dosage; Production of 5,000 bottles; $140-200)
1997 Pascal Doquet Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Le Mesnil-sur-Oger
Rating
89-91
Potential
89-91
Toasty aromas of citrus, nuts, and pears are rather big and bold for a Blanc de Blancs, but are nevertheless enticing. The
palate follows this same trend as the toast, nutty citrus, saline coated minerals, vanilla, cream, and baking spices coalesce
into a super flavor parade. A culmination of spiced and zesty citrus takes this wine to the finish line. I consider this to be a
top 1997 that balances elegance and bigger flavors, to be drunk now or over the next decade.
(100% Chardonnay; Cote de Blancs; 30% aged in new French Oak; Disgorged 2002; $50-80 US)
Rating
88-90
1997 Paul Bara Comtesse Marie de France
Potential
90-92
Bright amber-tinged gold in the glass, this gives off deep aromas of well-baked biscuits, young pears, and fresh citrus. In
the mouth, this shows an excellent streak of bitter red acidity that screams out high class Pinot Noir. Jutting from this
streak are hot out of the oven, dense biscuits, and a bright citrus character that carries through to the finish where it bites
down to contradict the vintage.
I often find the Champagnes of 1997 to be a bit dull, but this is bright, complex, and very deep in flavor. A touch of
sweetness hides in the back, but this mostly showcases the purity of Bouzy Pinot Noir and that is exactly what Paul Bara is
looking to accomplish with this wine. It isn’t their most expensive, but this bottling is their most limited and is made with
the grapes that Bara feels best express the terroir of Bouzy. I would say Mission Accomplished.
(100% Pinot Noir; Bouzy; Grand Cru; Disgorged 2006; Bottle 2946 of 3700; $70-85 US)
Rating
88-90
Potential
89-91
A wonderful wine in a great spot right now. This is full of creamy dark red berries and hints of spice on both the nose and
palate. Time has mellowed it out - now everything is relaxed and subdued. Biscuity graham cracker notes are starting to
come out and add a nice roundness to the dark berry fruit. The acidity is still there and helps to frame the wine before
taking hold on the finish. While drinking great right now, this will continue to do so for quite a while so feel free to drink
or hold.
(40% Chardonnay, 60% Pinot Noir; Rilly-la-Montagne; 50 year old vines from two vineyards; Aged a minimum of 10
months in new oak barrels; Red wine addition; Disgorged October 2004; Production of less than 2,000 bottles; $95-125
US)
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
June 2011
20
Rating
88-90
1997 Pierre Péters Cuvée Spéciale
Potential
89-91
While I'm not a huge fan of the 1997 vintage and I was not very impressed with this wine on release (when it seemed
rather unforgiving and a touch boring), I have to admit it has come along nicely. Fears that it might never come around
have fallen by the wayside based on recent tastes. This wine is starting to bloom: a rich toastiness in addition to apricots,
creamy citrus spice, and hints of baked apples find their way to front of the palate. If you own bottles of this, I would
recommend trying one now, because it is entering the start of a very nice drinking period.
(100% Chardonnay; Les Chetillons vineyard in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Oger; Stainless steel fermentation; Malolactic
fermentation; Disgorged 2005; 4-6 g/L dosage; ~ 10,000 bottles produced; $70-90 US)
Rating
88-90
1997 Henri Goutorbe Spécial Club
Potential
89-91
Very biscuity, this wine reveals hints of citrus, spice, orange, and smoke. Even better, this wine improves further given air
and time to warm up. While 1997 was not a great year in Champagne (especially for the Pinot-heavy villages), the
Goutorbes did a very nice job here; this is one of the best wines you can buy from the vintage. This wine has 89-91
potential.
(50% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot Noir; Aÿ; Stainless steel; Malolactic fermentation; $75-125 US)
Rating
88-90
1997 Billecart-Salmon Cuvée Elisabeth Salmon Rosé
Potential
88-90
The Chardonnay really takes hold in this vintage as doughy red apples and hints of dark cream lead the way. With some
air, strawberry and raspberry citrus comes out, but this tastes more like a Blanc de Blancs with a little Pinot Noir added to
it than a 50/50 split - but again that is 1997 for you. Overall, a very nice and tasty wine, but not the most typical vintage of
the Elisabeth.
(Approximately 50% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot Noir to which 10-12% red wine from Mareuil-sur-Ay is added; Mostly
stainless steel with some oak; Disgorged 2005; 8-9 g/L dosage; $125-175 US)
A. Margaine Once Again Knocks You Out with His Club
Rating
Potential
88-90
88-90
Year after year, this wine kicks a lot of tail and year after year, it is unjustly ignored. Full of bright citrus, honeysuckle,
doughy toast, peach and a hint of sweet apple, this is another great 1997 Blanc de Blancs. The best example of VillersMarmery that I know of, this shows the signature of the village - juicy citrus with hints of minerals without being too tart,
too mineral, or too fruity. It is this balance that really makes it excel.
(100% Chardonnay; Villers-Marmery; Mix of oak and stainless steel fermentation; Disgorged early 2004; $60-80 US)
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Rating
88-90
1997 Diebolt-Vallois Fleur de Passion
Potential
88-90
This top-notch 1997 has a nose full of light citrus blossoms, fragrant pears, and mineral-laced dough. Starting to bloom are
flavors of bright yellow apples, juicy pears, zesty orange, and creamy dough. Of any Fleur de Passion, this is probably the
one I would recommend drinking now. It isn't fully ready, but it is much closer to its peak than other vintages and is also
not likely to age as long. A very good effort for 1997.
(100% Chardonnay; Cramant; 40+ year old vines; Aged in oak barrels; No malolactic fermentation; Disgorged 2002;
Dosage 6-8 g/L; $70-150 US)
Rating
88-90
1997 Jean Laurent Blanc de Blancs
Potential
88-90
Chalky citrus, peaches, and lime blossoms open this wine up and lead into a young body full of citrus, peach, apple, and a
lengthy, lime-led finish. Some yeasty dough comes out with time. This is a top-notch 1997 cuvée that should continue to
age well over the next decade.
(100% Chardonnay; Celles-sur-Ource; Stainless steel; Disgorged 2007; Magnum; $150-200 US)
Rating
87-89
1997 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne
Potential
87-89
An extremely hard-to-find Comtes de Champagne, this version was not released to many markets, and when it was, the
quantity was limited. While it doesn't measure up to either of its most recent predecessors, 1995 and 1996, nor its followup vintages of 1998 and 1999, it is an enviable effort for the vintage. Front and center are lemon blossoms, creamy toast,
vanilla, and spiced apples. While this wine will never be a knockout, it will improve for longer than most of its cohorts
from the 1997 vintage, and I believe it deserves more attention than it has received in the past.
(100% Chardonnay; 5% aged in new oak; Disgorged 2004; $125-150 US)
Rating
87-89
1997 Bollinger La Grande Année
Potential
87-89
Nutty biscuits and baked pears dominate the nose and lead into a very tasty palate. Flavors of mixed citrus, yeasty dark
biscuits, and mellow pears have developed nicely with time. A slightly sweet pear and cream finish wrap this wine up
nicely. I'm not sure how much more development this wine has to go, but it should continue to hold. The quality difference
between this wine and the 1997 RD is very small, but the expression is quite different. If you want something to drink now
that has a good dry, fruity kick, buy the RD. If you want something that you can cellar for a few more years and has a bit
more variety of flavor, choose the Grande Année. Both are good efforts for the 1997 vintage.
(35% Chardonnay, 65% Pinot Noir; Fermented in small oak barrels 5 years or older; Disgorged September 2004; 3-4 g/L
dosage; $90-120 US)
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Rating
87-89
1997 Laurent-Perrier Grand Siècle Alexandra Rosé
Potential
87-89
Cherry and citrus lead the way, and are most obvious right after the cork is popped. With time this gains in softness and
elegance, whereupon citrus, red berry, and mineral take the lead. A few toasty, doughy notes can be found along with
some subtle cream, but this is light in body and floats through the air rather than taking sticking to land. Still in possession
of great acidity, this drinks well now, and will continue to do so for many years. A top-notch, Pinot Noir-dominant Rosé
from 1997.
(20% Chardonnay from Avize, Cramant, Chouilly and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, 80% Pinot Noir from Ambonnay, Bouzy,
Louvois, Mailly, Tours-sur-Marne and Verzenay; Assemblage in which the Pinot Noir is macerated with the skins and then
blended with Chardonnay; Stainless steel; Malolactic fermentation; $150-225 US)
Rating
87-89
1997 Deutz Amour de Deutz
Potential
87-89
Creamy lemons, lightly toasted dough, ground nuts, and some honeyed butter all come out to play. This wine is quite tasty
and almost finishes complete, but I'm left wishing for a more acidic spine and a touch more mineral for support. That may
be nit-picking, as I cannot deny how tasty this wine is, but to me this lacks structure that could balance the more upfront
flavors that this throws out there. Great for drinking today.
(100% Chardonnay; Avize, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Villers-Marmery; 15,000-18,000 bottles produced; $175-250 US)
Rating
87-89
1997 Gaston Chiquet Spécial Club
Potential
87-89
Toasty, bright citrus and pear aromas are attractive and showing very well right now. The palate has a similar fruity and
toasty aspect, but also emits a subtle creamy, spicy streak. While there is no hurry to drink this, it is certainly tasty right
now and I can't see it getting much better.
(70% Chardonnay from Dizy, 30% Pinot Noir from Mareuil-sur-Ay; Marne; Disgorged July 2006; $50-70 US)
Rating
87-89
1997 Perrier-Jouet Belle Epoque Rosé
Potential
87-89
Tart strawberry, cream, red citrus, and hints of dark cherry combine in a very tasty wine that has come together nicely
since release. While this has a few jagged edges left, it also has a wonderful creamy citrus note that will encourage an
instant smile. Time should continue to see this mellow, although I don't see it getting any better than it is today, so when
to drink it depends on whether you want jagged excitement in your wine or just plain smooth sailing.
(45% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot Noir; 5% Pinot Meunier with 12% Pinot Noir/Meunier red wine added; Stainless steel
fermentation; Malolactic fermentation; 8 g/L dosage; $175-275 US)
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Rating
87-89
1997 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Rosé
Potential
87-89
The Blanc de Blancs from this vintage was hard to find, but the Rosé is even more difficult to procure, since only a few
markets ever saw the wine. Because the quality in 1997 was not the best, Taittinger was very selective regarding the wines
used to create this cuvée. Unfortunately, Pinot Noir was more of a heartbreaker than a star in this vintage, and given that
this wine contains 70% Pinot Noir, it was quite the challenge to create. While this cuvée shows wonderful notes of
strawberry and citrus on both the nose and palate, it seems a bit heavier than most vintages - a dull, creamy, biscuity
character is responsible for weighing it down. I admit to enjoying this wine, but I also miss the lightness and brightness
that is normally present. Like the 1991, this isn't a great Comtes and isn't likely to improve. There are other vintages out
there to chase down other than this one - recommended only for Comtes junkies or those looking to complete a vertical or
horizontal.
(30% Chardonnay, 70% Pinot Noir with 12-15% Bouzy red wine added; Disgorged 2003; $150-225 US)
Rating
87-89
1997 Jacquesson Avize Blanc de Blancs
Potential
87-89
Peaches and sweet cream jump out of the glass at you. This baby has quite a nose on it. The palate can’t quite follow the
strength of the nose, but it is very focused and young-tasting, especially when you compare it to the toasty 1996. Loads of
pear, citrus, dough and a tiny hint of toast make up the profile. This is a nice effort for the mostly lackluster 1997 vintage.
In the Jacquesson lineup, I feel that the Avize is clearly the best value given that it is a solid wine at an attractive price.
(100% Chardonnay; From three vineyards in Avize; Aged in old oak casks; 3.5 g/L; Disgorged early 2007; 25,465 bottles,
1,180 magnums, and 60 jeroboams produced $55-70 US)
Rating
87-89
1997 Bollinger R.D.
Potential
87-89
Juicy pear rules the nose on this wine. Palate-wise, this is dominated by biscuits and, of course, more pear. Spicy orange
also works its way into the picture along with a few saline-led mineral notes. As with many RDs, this shows excellent
yeasty/biscuity notes and should be commended for its focus. A splendid wine that I have found drinks best within 2 years
of disgorgement.
(35% Chardonnay, 65% Pinot Noir; Fermented in small oak barrels 5 years or older; Disgorged September 3, 2008; 3-4
g/L dosage; $150-200 US)
Rating
87-89
1997 Jacquesson Rosé
Potential
87-89
Simmering red berry skins mix with dry biscuit dough to form an attractive nose. The dry biscuit notes continue on the
palate where this wine takes red berry skin and slowly mixes in biscuit dough, and pure, mineral-led citrus. It finishes up
with a touch of jagged, bitter grapefruit rind and river rocks.
(40% Chardonnay from Avize, 10% Chardonnay from Chouilly, 25% Pinot Noir from Ay, 15% Pinot Noir from Verzenay,
Red wine addition of 10% Pinot Noir from Dizy; Aged in oak; Disgorged late 2007; Dosage 3.5 g/L; 4992 bottles and 500
magnums produced; $70-90 US)
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Rating
86-88
1997 Louis Roederer Cristal
Potential
86-88
Bright lemon-led citrus mixes with creamy dough and a touch of faint honeysuckle; eventually apple and orange add to the
array of available flavors. This possesses a nice dose of acidity that becomes most obvious on the finish. A well-made
wine that is certainly tasty, this never quite grabs me for the price. While this will certainly cellar longer and change in its
expression, I don't see it getting better. So if you are a fan of Cristal that reveals a nicely mellowed youth, now is a great
time to drink this - especially out of magnum where it will display an extra zip to the fruit and extra kick to the acidity.
(45% Chardonnay from Avize, Cramant, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, and Oger, 55% Pinot Noir from Aÿ, Mareuil-sur-Aÿ,
Verzenay, and Verzy; Some oak fermentation/aging; Malolactic fermentation is not encouraged; Disgorged late
2002/early 2003; Dosage 7-10 g/L; $175-275 US)
Rating
85-87
1997 Delamotte Blanc de Blancs
Potential
86-88
Becoming creamy and toasty on the nose, this wine maintains a hint of sun-kissed citrus as well. This brightness carries
through to the palate where bitter minerality makes an appearance. The stars of the show are really fruit and bread-based
notes, however, accompanied by creamy pear, doughy apple, and lip-smacking orange. This is drinking great right now,
so pop and enjoy. Overall a very good representation of what the Côte des Blancs could produce in a vintage like 1997.
(100% Chardonnay; Avize, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Oger; Steel Fermentation; Malolactic Fermentation; Disgorged 2004;
10-12 g/L dosage; $70-90 US)
Rating
85-87
Potential
85-87
Toast and crisp apple lead spicy citrus in a growing crescendo after the wine has time to open up. A touch of sweet citrus
rounds the palate and meshes nicely with the tart mineral notes of the finish. Another very good Côte des Blancs wine
from 1997 and a wonderful example of grapes grown in the village of Oger in this vintage.
(100% Chardonnay; Single vineyard Vaudon in Oger; Stainless steel; Malolactic fermentation; 7-8 g/L dosage; $80-95
US)
Rating
85-87
1997 L. Aubry Aubry de Humbert
Potential
85-87
This tête de cuvée was released almost eight years ago and this is the first time I have tasted a bottle in almost that long.
The 1997 vintage was a difficult one, especially for those who did not harvest Chardonnay exclusively, but Aubry has
done a nice job with this two-thirds Pinot Noir cuvée, despite the challenges of the growing season. This wine remains
quite fresh, with lovely citrus acidity throughout and especially on the finish. While it may sound strange, the strong 1997
Chardonnay is dominating the Pinot in this wine even though it is only one third of the mix. The palate does show some
Pinot character (from both Noir and Meunier) and is slowly starting to develop a biscuit note and a bit of earthy
mushroom. This wine is in a very nice place right now and though it isn't likely to get better, it also isn't going to fall
apart. This is a good, solid effort for the vintage and excellent at the dinner table.
(1/3 each Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier; Stainless steel; 6-7 g/L dosage; $70-90 US)
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25
The 1998 Vintage
Early Goings On in 1998
The year started off fairly normal. January, February and
March saw a mix of snow, rain, sun, warmth, humidity,
and frost typical for the region. It wasn’t until April that
the weather began to worry vinegrowers. On April 13 th
and 14th, frost hit the Sézanne, Côte des Blancs, and a
portion of the Marne Valley, destroying over 2,000 ha of
vineyards. In May the weather continued to offer cause
for concern, as temperatures occasionally reached over
30°C (86° F) interspersed with days that dropped below
freezing. During flowering, which started on June 11 th for
Chardonnay, June 14th for Pinot Noir, and June 18th for
Pinot Meunier, the weather started out cool and rainy, but
then turned dry and sunny for the completion by the end
of the month.
Summer in 1998 brought both rain and dry warmth
Rain, clouds, and general gloominess characterized July
1998. Expecting warm, dry weather at this time of year,
Champagne instead experienced a month that on paper
resembled April more than anything else, with cool
weather and numerous rainstorms. July eventually ended,
though not without perpetuating the doldrums, only to
have August bluster in with scorchingly hot temperatures.
The heat actually hovered around 40°C (104°F) for days,
generating fear that the grapes could scald or roast. Vines
planted on the south facing slopes were in the most
danger – without enough leaf cover to shield the grapes,
destruction was inevitable. In fact, around 7% of the
potential grape yield was lost due to excessive heat. After
August’s fury, the expected yield was dropped to around
13,000 kg/ha. On a positive note, the heat did act as a
natural deterrent to mold, mildew, and a number of
insects that may have otherwise harmed the crop.
On August 20th, grape maturity was analyzed by samples
taken from around Champagne.
The results were
anything but uniform, with Chardonnay the most
inconsistent. Similar to 1997, the Chardonnay was behind
schedule and starting to worry a number of vinegrowers
who feared under-ripeness. Still, the development of
Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier was on a steady track and
looking good as harvest approached.
Harvest Time – Abundance in the Vineyards
Verzenay did well in 1998
One Crazy Summer
Bud bloom occurred toward the end of June, and early
estimates for a harvest yield were coming in slightly
above 14,000 kg/ha – a good-sized amount, unlike that
seen in 1997. Hopes were raised based on how well the
vines had responded to the previous unpredictable
weather patterns, but they were quickly re-calibrated by a
rather dismal July.
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The Sézanne region opened the harvest season on
September 12th. Unfortunately, rain accompanied the
picking, and the lab numbers of samples taken from the
first grapes picked didn’t look so good. Because of this,
most other growers delayed picking by a few days,
allowed the rain to cease, and by September 24 th everyone
was out in their vineyards hard at work. Especially key
was the warm, dry week of September 19-26th; in this
week alone the potential alcohol rose by almost 1.5° brix.
This assured a quality harvest and allowed the slowripening Chardonnay to catch up.
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The final numbers of the harvest were solid, but not great.
The average alcoholic strength reached 9.8° brix. This
put it above the norm, but not at a level anyone would
consider high. The acidity was fairly average at 8.1 g/L.
Comparable years would be 1992, 1993, and 1997 if you
are looking strictly at numbers, but numbers on paper
don’t tell you everything. In the vineyards and in the
wineries, 1998 offered a lesser vintage than the great
years like 1990, 1995, or 1996, but an above-average crop
with vintage potential.
The average yield harvested in 1998 was 12,926 kg/ha.
Not since 1982 and 1983 had such a large average yield
been realized. Since the harvest was healthy and
plentiful, the maximum allowable yield for the year was
raised from its default of 10,400 kg/ha all the way up to
its absolute maximum of 13,000 kg/ha. This was the first
time the absolute maximum had been reached since it was
created in 1994. With more acreage planted in 1998 than
in the 1980s, 1998 produced the biggest bottle production
ever. Three hundred thirty-two million bottles were
produced, making this the first vintage to surpass the three
hundred million bottle mark. With strong sales and the
millennium rush (supposedly) experienced by consumers,
the Champenois were thrilled.
Overall Results
The 1998 Pinot Noir vins clairs were highly regarded,
exhibiting solid structure, body, and fruit. Pinot Meunier
also showed well. Out of the three main grapes,
Chardonnay had the least going for it. Early Chardonnay
wines weren’t out-and-out bad, but they were a little lean
and easily overshadowed by the Pinot varieties. As a
whole, the quality of the vins clairs was better than
expected and there was definitely above-average potential
in many of the wines.
Pinot Noir in villages like Aÿ excelled in 1998
Similar to the previous year, one of the most difficult
decisions to make in 1998 was whether or not to declare a
vintage. With a large harvest and very good quality in
most of the grapes, the easy answer was to go ahead and
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make a vintage, but the same factors came into play as in
1997. First, stocks were low for non-vintage wines since
the previous three years had seen so many vintage wines
produced. Second, while the grapes were above average,
blends that relied on a fair amount of Chardonnay would
be challenged to find optimal balance.
It is worth nothing that the non-vintage wines produced
with 1998 as a base were very successful, especially given
the pre-existing stock of wonderful Chardonnay from
1997 and the all-around high quality wines from 1995 and
1996. Non-vintage wines made from this foursome were
blessed with exceptional raw materials for both drinking
early on and for aging. The only negative was the
enormous harvest quantity, which produced its own
unique challenges during handling and processing. In
fact, the quantity of grapes in the 1998 harvest set the tone
for the next decade by challenging both vinegrowers and
winemakers to handle more grapes and also higher quality
grapes at the same time.
Top Wines
You can probably guess that I am going to recommend a
number of Pinot-heavy blends from 1998 and you would
be correct, but that doesn’t mean that 1998 Chardonnay
wines should be ignored. In fact, my favorite wine from
the Vintage, Vilmart’s Cuvée Création, is Chardonnaydriven and so are two other wines in my top dozen –
Billecart-Salmon’s Blanc de Blancs and Vilmart’s Coeur
de Cuvée. Keep your eye out for these beauties. Among
the Pinot–heavy producers, Henri Giraud’s Fût de Chêne,
Mumm’s Rene Lalou, Veuve Clicquot’s range, Dom
Pérignon’s lineup, Henri Billiot’s Millésime, and Krug’s
vintage cuvée all stand out as successes. In my opinion,
the top thirty wines from 1998 are extremely solid and a
good deal higher in quality across the board when
compared to the 1997, 1999, 2000, and 2001 vintages. In
the years between 1996 and 2002, 1998 is clearly the best
vintage, particularly in the vintage wines because any
producers nervous about the year simply didn’t bother.
As a result, very few actual duds exist. Also, it is
important to note that there are still a few 1998 wines to
be released – prestige cuvées from Ruinart, Henriot, and a
few others are still biding their time, though most should
be released within the next year.
So buy up 1998s (when they are priced attractively) and
drink them now and over the next decade. It is a rare
vintage where both quality and drinkability are high for
current and future consumption. While I don’t see the
vintage making old bones like a 1988, 1995, or 1996, top
wines will drink well for twenty to thirty years. I view
1998 as a bit of a sleeper vintage which suffered due to
lack of publicity on release, but throw one in a blind
tasting and get ready to be surprised. These are fruity,
open, downright enjoyable wines guaranteed to bring a
smile to your face.
June 2011
27
Top 30 Wines from 1998
Rank
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
Wine
Henri Giraud Fût de Chêne
Mumm R. Lalou
Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame Rosé
Krug
Veuve Clicquot Rosé Réserve
Henri Billiot Millésime
Billecart-Salmon Blanc de Blancs
Dom Pérignon Rosé
Krug Clos du Mesnil
Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs
Dom Pérignon
Vilmart Coeur de Cuvée - late dgd magnum
Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame
Piper-Heidsieck Rare - magnum
Ruinart Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs
Henriot Millésime
E. Barnaut Millésime
Gaston Chiquet Blanc de Blancs d'Aÿ - magnum
Pol Roger Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill
Louis Roederer Blanc de Blancs
Alfred Gratien Millésime
Type
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Rosé
Vintage Blend
Vintage Rosé
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Rosé
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdN
Vintage BdB
Vintage Rosé
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdN
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Rating
94-96
93-95
92-94
90-92
91-94
91-93
91-93
91-93
91-93
90-92
89-91
90-92
90-92
90-92
90-92
90-92
90-92
90-92
90-92
88-90
89-91
87-89
88-90
88-91
88-90
87-89
87-89
87-89
87-89
87-89
Potential
94-96
93-95
92-95
92-95
91-94
91-93
91-93
91-93
91-93
91-93
91-93
90-92
90-92
90-92
90-92
90-92
90-92
90-92
90-92
90-92
89-91
89-91
89-91
88-91
88-90
88-90
88-90
87-89
87-89
87-89
Rating
94-96
1998 Vilmart Cuvée Création
Page
28
29
29
29
29
30
30
30
30
31
31
31
31
32
32
32
32
33
33
33
33
34
34
34
34
35
35
35
35
36
Potential
94-96
Winemaker extraordinaire Laurent Champs walked in with this bottle and told me I would love it. He was very proud of
how well it was drinking and thought that along with the 1990, it was his best Cuvée Creation to date. One whiff and I
knew what he was talking about. This is a huge wine and is better than the 1997, which I absolutely loved (it is my favorite
1997 Champagne to date and was my favorite Cuvée Creation... until this wine, the 1998, came out). Full of fluffy
biscuits, hot buttered rum, spices, peach, pear, and concentrated citrus, it is an explosive glass of fresh-baked fruit cocktail
pie. If you don’t like big and bold spicy fruit then avoid this wine, but I love this hedonistic pleasure that knocks you down
and makes you cry, “Please sir, may I have another?” I purchased more of this Vilmart than any other of their other
cuvées.
(70% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir; Single vineyard in Rilly-la-Montagne; 40-50 year old vines; Aged a minimum of 10
months in new oak barrels; Disgorged June 2006; $90-125 US)
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28
Rating
93-95
1998 Henri Giraud Fût de Chêne
Potential
93-95
Following on the heels of the spectacular 1996 is no easy task, but this wine manages to do it with aplomb. It is big, rich,
spicy, and characterized by clove, vanilla, and sherry accents on the nose. In the mouth it is equally voluptuous and
reminds me of spiced apple cobbler and roasted, glazed nuts. The mouthfeel on this wine is incomparable - the tactile
chewiness adds to the complexity. There is a lot of oak in this wine, but the rich, concentrated, and bright fruit balances it
out nicely.
(70% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnayr; Ay; aged in Argonne oak; Disgorged late 2006; Bottle 16616; $160-220 US)
Drinking Absolutely Beautifully Today with More Still to Come
Rating
Potential
92-94
92-95
This wine is slowly gaining a creamy, soft red citrus complexity that matches perfectly with the biscuity, spiced berry
notes that have been with the wine since the beginning. As with other vintages, red berries and a hint of dark tannin define
the palate, taking my tongue on a brief trip to Burgundy whenever I drink it; the fact that it has bubbles is really more of an
afterthought. Warmth and time to breathe improve the wine immensely, and another five years in the cellar will reap even
greater benefits.
(40% Chardonnay, 60% Pinot Noir; Rilly-la-Montagne; 50 year old vines from two vineyards; Aged a minimum of 10
months in new oak barrels; Red wine addition; Production of less than 2,000 bottles; $95-125 US)
Rating
90-92
1998 Mumm R. Lalou
Potential
92-95
Wheat, cream, dark berries, and biscuit lead a big, bold, yet elegant and charming nose; the odd burned and gummy notes
that were two years ago have now disappeared. Pinot Noir dominates the palate, where biscuits, darkened pie crust, and
cream explode with a freshness that compels a wonderful citrus aspect to the fore. A handful of minerals show up on the
finish before a wave of graham cracker and raisin knocks everything to the side and parties wildly in your mouth. Over
time, the wine has become more balanced, which indicates excellent cellaring potential.
(50% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot Noir; From 12 Grand Cru Vineyards; Disgorged July 2007; 6 g/L dosage; $150-200 US)
Rating
91-94
1998 Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame Rosé
Potential
91-94
The 1998 Vintage Rosé from Clicquot is a succulent, fruit-filled joy to drink, and one of the top wines from the vintage,
but the 1998 La Grande Dame Rosé ratchets it up one level higher. Big, burly strawberry aromas exude from the glass and
practically send you scrambling for shelter. You wouldn’t be the first to think this wine should come with a “Wild Thing
Inside” warning. A healthy helping of summer strawberry and raspberry romp happily with an elegant, fruity, red citrus
core. Dough notes develop on the midpalate and with warmth, dark, decadent strawberry cream becomes evident. In the
end, this wine takes you on the kind of ride Maurice Sendak would be proud of. Since its debut in 1988, the Grande Dame
Rosé has been one of the top wines in Champagne and this fifth release (1988, 1989, 1990, 1995, and now 1998) continues
an impressive tradition.
(38% Chardonnay from Avize, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, and Oger, 62%Pinot Noir from Ambonnay, Aÿ, Bouzy, Verzenay, &
Verzy with 15% red wine addition from Bouzy; Stainless steel; Malolactic fermentation; Disgorged mid 2006; $225-300
US)
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Issue 11
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Rating
91-93
1998 Krug
Potential
91-93
A lovely nose of tree nuts, spicy flowers, and bright vanilla citrus slowly fills the air around you. The aromas of Krug are
unmistakable and almost always relax the room since you know the wine is going to be good. Flavors of fresh walnut,
orange, sweet peach blossom, and spiced, roasted vanilla bean instantly appear at the fore, but over time a concentrated
citrus element takes control and drives this wine home with a long, tart, and juicy finish.
I really couldn't hope for more than what this wine delivers with the 1998 vintage. In a way, it is an upgrade from the open
and tasty 1989 in that it is not only ready for business, but it is extremely well structured and sure to evolve over time. The
fact that it has one heck of backbone should make this one of the longest-lived 1998s out there. Interestingly, this is the
highest Chardonnay content vintage Krug has made - a little more than half the cepage is Chardonnay (the 1981 was half
Chardonnay). This higher percentage of Chardonnay has likely given the wine its early drinkability since most
Chardonnay from 1998 is lush, open, and inviting. Have a bottle or two of this young, but don't drink it all up - you'll want
to taste this bad boy 10-20 years from now.
(Approximately 50-55% Chardonnay with the remainder a blend of Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier; Fermented in old oak
barriques; No malolactic fermentation; Disgorged 2008; $250-350 US)
Rating
91-93
1998 Vilmart Coeur de Cuvée
Potential
91-93
Big, bold, rich, and just plain tasty. The fruit explodes onto the palate with peaches, pears, apples, and oranges rolling
willy-nilly through vanilla-soaked cinnamon. This wine continues to open up and develop, but there is no rush to drink it this will continue to drink at a high level for a long time. Another winner from Laurent Champs and gang.
barrels; $95-135 US)
Rating
91-93
1998 Veuve Clicquot Rosé Réserve
Potential
91-93
On release this was a basketful of fresh, juicy berries that was fun, fruity, and just plain delicious. Over time, it has started
to gain a touch of darkness and cream, but the bright fruit character is still front and center. While the fruitiness of this
wine is very apparent, it still has a nice core of acidity and touches of biscuit and spice; in other words, it is anything but
one dimensional and was a great buy if you were able pick this up on release.
(Approximately 30-35% Chardonnay, 50-65% Pinot Noir, 0-15% Pinot Meunier; 15% Red wine added from Bouzy;
Stainless steel fermentation; Malolactic fermentation; Dosage of 9 g/L; $60-75 US)
Rating
91-93
1998 Henri Billiot Millésime
Potential
91-93
An amber, apricot color that is darker than most 1998 Champagnes greets me and invites me in, where it becomes
immediately apparent that the nose is throwing one heck of a party, with aromas of peaches, flowers, hot buttered biscuits,
and brown sugar melting on top of baked ruby red grapefruit.
I make my way deeper into the party and find a rich palate that is full of chewy biscuits and racy, yeasty dough. This is
huge in the flavor department. It shows a zippy, spritzer-like citrus character and has tons of juicy pear and peach fruit to
balance out not only the citrus notes, but also the hearty, chewy flavors. After hanging out and partying a little, it is time to
leave and what a sendoff I am given - the finish lingers on and on with a zesty, spicy, yeasty, citrus zip and pear notes
fading into bright yellow apples. Yowza, we have a winner! If you like Pinot-dominated and/or flavor-packed Champagne,
you will love this. Somehow this wine manages to balance big and racy with fruit-forward delight. Everything is in your
face, yet it is so well balanced you don’t mind. This is oh-so-good. I’m sure it will age well, but why not drink it now? It is
super today and is one of the best from the vintage.
(15-25% Chardonnay, 75-85% Pinot Noir; Ambonnay; 12% alc; Disgorged 2005; $55-70 US)
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Rating
90-92
1998 Paul Bara Comtesse Marie de France
Potential
91-93
Amazingly concentrated for a 1998, this flat-out floors you with bitter red berry skins, tart and dry red apples, concentrated
grapefruit, sharp minerals, yeasty biscuit dough, and flirtatious tangerines. As with most vintages of this wine, the finish
offers a marked contrast to the intense palate, displaying bright and open vanilla and orange flavors. In need of at least a
decade of cellaring, this can compete with the best of 1998 - it is stunning right now and will still get better.
(100% Pinot Noir; Bouzy; Stainless steel fermentation; $75-100 US)
Rating
91-93
1998 Billecart-Salmon Blanc de Blancs
Potential
91-93
It is impossible not to smile when a rush of fresh floral and citrus aromas burst forth from your glass. The palate is full of
toasted bread and bright orange merging into lemon and soft, sweetened dough. With time, the palate gains a pleasant
creaminess. Piercing citrus highlights a finish that fades a bit too fast, but other than that, this is an extremely well made
wine that is both young and full of potential.
(100% Chardonnay; Avize, Chouilly, Cramant, Mesnil-sur-Oger and Oger; Stainless steel; Malolactic fermentation; $80130 US)
Rating
90-92
1998 Dom Pérignon Rosé
Potential
90-92
The 1998 Dom Perignon Rosé is very indicative of the vintage - quite open, it sports a red berry nose that is almost lush in
comparison with the dark 1996 or tight and citric 1995 Rosés. Consistent with most young Dom Rosés, this has an elegant
Burgundian streak to it which is illustrated by the forest floor notes that pop into the picture every now and then. While the
wine is open and full of red berries, it still shows a nice core of tart citrus and a fairly long finish of red grapefruit and
cream. This isn't a stunning Dom Rosé, but it is tasty and it is easier to enjoy right now than the recent 1995 and 1996,
which will benefit immensely with time and are still tightly wound.
Even more so than the regular Dom Perignon, the Rosé consistently performs at a high level. The "off" vintages of 1992
and 1993 both saw wonderful Rosés produced and the 1980 and 1986 Rosés are both very nice wines as well. That said,
price is an issue for me. It is easy to recommend this if price is no factor, but since most of us do not have an endless
supply of cash, it is difficult to justify the purchase of this wine, especially when the similarly priced and better 1995 and
1996 cuvées are still readily available.
(Approximately 40% Chardonnay, 60% Pinot Noir; Red Wine Addition; Full malolactic fermentation; Stainless steel;
Disgorged 2007; $300-400 US)
Rating
90-92
1998 Krug Clos du Mesnil
Potential
90-92
Full-bodied and open, this gently-spiced, dough-filled wine is beautiful on both the nose and palate. As the wine has time
to breathe, citrus-laced dough, minerals, and hints of spiced apple emerge. This will certainly age for quite some time, but
there is no harm in opening a bottle now. The price is a bit much, but I can't complain about the quality.
(100% Chardonnay; Single Vineyard Clos du Mesnil in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger; Fermented in oak; No malolactic
fermentation; 8,000 - 15,000 bottles produced; $900-1200 US)
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Issue 11
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1998 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs
Rating
90-92
Potential
90-92
Taittinger's Comtes de Champagne lineup continues to be one of the most consistently high performing tête de cuvées out
there, and the 1998 does not disappoint. Right from the get-go it shows the trademarks of the vintage: the nose is open and
inviting with zesty citrus mixing with orange blossoms and hints of creamy, mineral-filled dough. Take a sip and the bright
lemon and orange flavors pour out with light touches of vanilla cream, walnuts, and spiced apples. As with many vintages
of this wine, the finish leaves your tongue tingling with tiny citrus bubbles. This wine is delicious now and will easily age
for a couple more decades. A no-brainer buy for me.
(100% Chardonnay; ~5% of the wine aged for 2-3 months in new to fairly new oak; Malolactic fermentation; Disgorged
2006; $125-170 US)
A “Reasonably Priced” Dom P that Drinks Superbly Right Now
1998 Dom Pérignon
Rating
Potential
90-92
90-92
You really need to let this bottle breathe a bit before diving in – trust me. When it does open up, fluffy peach, citrus, a
touch of sweet honeysuckle flowers, and creamy, doughy biscuits will emerge. The finish is so clean and mouthwatering
that you can’t help but grab another glass. While it isn't a blockbuster wine that will bowl you over on its way to the top,
its components are effortlessly woven together and drinking wonderfully right now. If I have to choose one Dom Perignon
from the 1990s to drink today, this is my choice.
(Approximately 50% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot Noir; Stainless steel fermentation; Malolactic fermentation; $125-175 US)
1998 Vilmart Coeur de Cuvée - late disgorged magnum
Rating
90-92
Potential
90-92
I'm a big fan of the 1998 Coeur de Cuvée that was released a few years ago in 750 ml format, and I always look forward to
Vilmart's magnum regime, but this wine is still too young on which to get an accurate reading. The nose is rather closed even with warmth and time, it doesn't show much more than a few hints of apple and peach. Flavors of fruity pear, citrus,
and peach are more forceful on the palate, but everything isn’t firing on all cylinders (yet). This wine almost seems too
young. A long finish of concentrated orange assures me that this wine can and will deliver the goods; you will just have to
wait a while to get them.
If Vilmart had waited a couple more years before releasing this wine (they used to wait 12-14 years after a vintage to
release the late-disgorged magnums), I think it would have shown a bit better. Still, this has amazing potential and will be
very good. I just recommend letting it rest for a couple more years to let it come together.
(80% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Noir; 50 year old vines; Rilly-la-Montagne; Aged a minimum of 10 months in new to 3 year
old 225L oak barrels; Disgorged December 2008; $200-300 US)
Rating
90-92
1998 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses
Potential
90-92
The aromas of this wine combine the characteristics of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir perfectly as dark, enigmatic toast and
biscuit aromas billow from the glass. Following this lead, the palate adds a strong citrus backbone to hard-baked bread
flavors. Mineral, orange, and ripe, concentrated peach and pear coalesce around the citrus center as a touch of smoky
apricot sneaks in on the finish.
Most striking is its tightly wound and profoundly dark nature. This is almost like a “Goth” version of the tête de cuvée,
especially given that the 1998 vintage is more typically known for being fresh, fruity, and open. Over time, as the bottle
breathes, it lightens a bit, but this Clos des Goisses demands further cellaring. This is very atypical for the 1998 vintage,
but when is Clos des Goisses ever typical? This wine has continued to open slowly and improve since release, and even
with its obvious potential, I would not be surprised if I have underestimated this.
(35% Chardonnay, 65% Pinot Noir; Single vineyard in Mareuil-sur-Ay; Steel and oak fermentation & aging; No
malolactic fermentation; Disgorged June 2007; 4.5 g/L Dosage; Production of ~ 10,000 bottles; $145-175 US)
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Rating
90-92
Potential
90-92
Toasted white bread, citrus blossoms, and a delicate, creamy sweetness make for a stupendous nose. Orange-led citrus
forms the core out of which juicy peaches, toast, and tangerines radiate. With some air, creamy minerals and orangehoney-tinged bread comes out. This is a winning wine that has been drinking at a high level since release and shows no
signs of dropping off or closing down. Drink now, drink in 5 years, or drink in a decade plus; this will always be a topnotch wine.
(100% Chardonnay; Villers-Marmery; Mix of oak and stainless steel fermentation; Disgorged early 2006; $60-80 US)
Rating
90-92
1998 Bollinger Vieilles Vignes Francaises
Potential
90-92
Spicy red apple, citrus, and hints of dark cream make for a very fine VVF that is an early drinker (in my opinion). This is
already fully open and fanning its feathers, especially as the wine has time to breathe and warm up, and soft biscuit dough
and crushed red berries rise to the fore. Impossible to turn a glass down of this, but I would probably look for a slightly
better recent vintage of this (1996 or 1999) if I was buying.
(100% Pinot Noir; From three vineyards planted with ungrafted vines: Clos Chaudes Terres in Aÿ, Clos St.-Jacques in Aÿ,
Croix Rouge in Bouzy; Fermented in oak; No malolactic fermentation; Approximately 3,000 - 5,000 bottles produced;
$600-800 US)
Rating
88-90
1998 Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame
Potential
90-92
Pears and light floral scents highlight a very clean nose. The palate acts very young as citrus, apple, and pear fight for
attention. With some time, spicy biscuits appear and lead into a mouth-wetting finish that gives a flirtatious whisper of
spice as it disappears. True to the vintage, this is open and full of fruit. Good today, it will be even better in five years.
(64% Pinot Noir grapes from Ay, Verzenay, Verzy, Ambonnay, and Bouzy; 36% Chardonnay from Avize, Oger, and Le
Mesnil-sur-Oger; All Grand Cru; Malolactic fermentation; Disgorged late 2006; $110-145 US)
Rating
89-91
1998 Diebolt-Vallois Fleur de Passion
Potential
89-91
Big-boned and closed for a 1998, this is unyielding on the nose, with deep orange, faint flower blossoms, and hints of
cream swirling above the glass. The palate is a touch more open, but still not showing anywhere near its full potential.
Crisp apples and pears mix with pure citrus-tinged minerals and a lovely vanilla dough note that has a hint of cream to it.
As with every other vintage of the Fleur de Passion, the wine's true brilliance is in its purity and concentration. Since it
has only been produced since 1995, we can only guess how it will show with 20-30 years of age, but I can't wait to find
out.
(100% Chardonnay; Cramant; 40+ year old vines; Aged in oak barrels; No malolactic fermentation; Disgorged 2003;
Dosage 6-8 g/L; $70-150 US)
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Issue 11
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A Spectacular Re-Debut of Piper’s Rare
1998 Piper-Heidsieck Rare - magnum
Rating
Potential
87-89
89-91
This wine requires significant time to open up and fully express itself, but after that, watch out. A full-bodied nose of
bready citrus and peach gains increasing freshness the longer it has to breathe. Honeyed citrus, zesty minerals, bread
dough, and hints of floral spice all combine in a spunky, chunky wine that will only improve with time. This tastes better
at higher temperatures and, to me, that is a sign of very good Champagne - it doesn't need a chill to hide its defects.
(Approximately 35% Chardonnay, 65% Pinot Noir; Stainless steel; Disgorged 2006; Magnum format; $250-$400 US)
Rating
88-90
1998 Ruinart Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs
Potential
89-91
This follows the style of the vintage very well, being “open for business” with a wonderful, spiced-cream nose. The nose
leads into flavors of ripe peach, pear and citrus fruit that are nicely balanced by excellent minerality and acidity. There is a
kick of bitterness on the finish which adds a touch of complexity and intrigue regarding its future. While it still needs some
time to reach its full potential, I would encourage drinking this before you even think about touching your 1996s.
(100% Chardonnay; 67% Cote de Blancs - Avize, Cramant, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and 33% Montagne de Reims - Puisieulx,
Sillery, Verzenay; Stainless steel; Malolactic Fermentation; Disgorged 2007/2008; 7 g/L dosage; $125-200 US)
Rating
88-91
Potential
88-91
Quite unusual for a Liesse d'Harbonville, this wine appears cool and composed as a youngster (relatively speaking).
Normally Liesse d'Harbonville is wild and unruly, though clearly full of potential at this stage - most are impossible to
read until a few years after disgorgement. (Unfortunately, Ployez-Jacquemart will disgorge the same wine over multiple
years - the 1996 is still being disgorged and shipped right now - without any labeling change, resulting in tastings of
multiple bottles of the “same” wine with varied results.)
Nonetheless, the 1998 is showing its goods already. This doesn't mean it won't improve in the cellar because it surely will.
Rich, nutty, vanilla cream meshes with peach, pear, apple, and citrus to ride a wave of striking acidity up and down, over
and over, pummeling oak, spice, and minerals below. The finish is especially invigorating, leaving the tongue with a
delicious, not-quite-puckering tartness. A very nice 1998, this is recommended for those who like zesty, richer wines.
malolactic fermentation; Disgorged 2008; $90-150 US)
Rating
88-90
1998 Henriot Millésime
Potential
88-90
This was quite tight when released and at the time I foresaw improvement, but not nearly to the current degree. Moreover,
I never dreamed the wine would blossom so quickly. Over the last two years this has grown exponentially fast from a
toddler to a young adult …and a long future is still to come. The open nose is extraordinarily inviting, with lightly buttered
dough and creamy citrus. The palate is led by clean, doughy apples and a wonderful finish of citrus and minerality kissed
by cream. With time in the glass, graham cracker and cookie aromas appear, as if the wine needed to become more
seductive. If you have a few bottles of this, pop one now to enjoy its pure delectability.
(Approximately 50-55% Chardonnay, 45-50% Pinot Noir; Stainless steel fermentation; Disgorged 2007; $45-60 US)
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
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Rating
87-89
1998 E. Barnaut Millésime
Potential
88-90
A frothy mousse gives way to a very open and fragrant nose that kicks up aromas of spicy peaches, pears, biscuits, and a
healthy dose of chalk. Normally I’m not a big fan of upfront chalk aromas, but it works well with the other aromas in the
wine and in the end the chalk note adds instead of detracts from the whole. The flavors in this wine are just as big as the
nose: yeasty, spicy biscuits and racy citrus lead a band of apples, pears, and sherry on a chalked cakewalk. This is one heck
of a flavorful wine and has many similarities to a young Bollinger Grande Année, only it is $100 less expensive.
This is a tremendous wine and really busts out of the box when you give it an hour or two to breathe and warm up. While
it is a completely different flavor expression than the 1996, it is just as good at this young stage. I hope the bottle variation,
quality, or “whatever the heck it is” problems at E. Barnaut have been solved because I am once again going out on a limb
and scoring this wine high with excellent potential. Just be wary that past cuvées have also been this good with this much
promise on release and then laid big smelly goose eggs over time.
(50% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot Noir; Bouzy Grand Cru; Fermented in steel; Malolactic Fermentation; Disgorged 2006;
$40-55 US)
1998 Gaston Chiquet Blanc de Blancs d'Aÿ - magnum
Rating
87-89
Potential
88-90
I adore this wine out of 750 mL bottles (where it doesn't carry a vintage declaration) and absolutely love it out of magnum
where it is vintage dated and sees more than double the time on the lees. Big, bold citrus, smoky minerals, and toasty
dough are strutting their stuff. Drinking wonderfully right now, I see no need to wait, but this will surely cellar well too.
(100% Chardonnay; Ay; Stainless steel fermentation; Malolactic fermentation; Disgorged January 2007; 8 g/L dosage;
$120-150 US)
Rating
87-89
1998 Pol Roger Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill
Potential
87-89
This wine reminds of a combination of the 1993 Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill and the 2000 Dom Perignon. Its nose of
meaty seashells, mushrooms, and rich, gently sweetened, spicy biscuits brings a mature and open note to the wine that is
different than I expected, but enjoyable and expressive nonetheless. The palate is similar in profile to the nose, but adds in
a citrus backbone that slowly exerts itself with air. Dominant, it never is, but helps to ground the wine in the 1998 vintage
style and give it some room to grow. Biscuity elements are starting to take shape and this wine will be giving the most in
its youth rather than in old age; I would drink this over the next 5-10 years while I wait on my 88, 90, and 95s.
(Unknown mix of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir - Pinot Noir dominant; Disgorged 2007; 8-9 g/L dosage; $175-$215 US)
Rating
87-89
1998 Louis Roederer Blanc de Blancs
Potential
87-89
I've always wondered why Roederer didn't release a 1998 Cristal, considering it was a very nice vintage and the rest of
their range was produced. It turns out that the grapes usually slated for Cristal were used instead for the rest of the range,
including the “Baby Cristal” 1998 Blanc de Blancs. Roederer’s Blanc de Blancs comes from the same plots as Cristal,
exhibits a similar powerfully elegant and expressive style, and is oftentimes almost as good at one-third to one-fourth the
price of its more famous sibling. With no Cristal to scoop up the best grapes in 1998, good things can be expected from
this wine.
Peach, pear, mineral and barely-toasted dough lead the aroma profile as tangerine, apple, pear, peach, lemon, creamy
dough, and gently spiced minerals come through on the palate. This is very expressive and has a wonderfully delicious
creamy finish. Not the most complex wine, but a very solid one that is both very tasty and a good buy.
(100% Chardonnay from the Cote des Blancs, 4 atm pressure like a Cremant; Some used oak aging; No malolactic
fermentation; Dosage 11-12 g/L; Disgorged early 2004; $50-80 US)
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Issue 11
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Rating
87-89
1998 Alfred Gratien Millésime
Potential
87-89
This is open, forward, and full of creamy, spicy, zesty fruit. Apples, pears, peaches, and citrus combine into a core of
stability with hints of minerality and energetic acidity for further support. This is a wine you can feel free to enjoy now.
Sure it will age, but I don't think it will get much better than it is today.
(60-70% Chardonnay, 10-20% Pinot Noir, 15-25% Pinot Meunier; Oak aging; No malolactic fermentation; $75-100 US)
An address for great Chardonnay in 1998
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
June 2011
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The Wines of Nicolas Feuillatte
The Face of le Centre Vinicole Coopérative
Nicolas Feuillatte – the man behind the brand
Nicolas Feuillatte is one of the biggest and fastestgrowing Champagne brands in the world. With a little
over eight million bottles sold in 2010, they are currently
the third largest producer of Champagne, trailing only
Moët & Chandon and Veuve Clicquot. This is especially
impressive considering that only twenty-five years ago,
Nicolas Feuillatte’s sales totaled less than 200,000 bottles
per year. This forty-fold-plus growth speaks to the vision
and drive of this brand that is clearly on track to achieve
their stated goal: to sell the greatest number of
Champagne bottles per year of any producer in the region.
Since their top competition (Moët & Chandon) sells north
of thirty-two million bottles a year, they still have a ways
to go, but based on the company’s track record, it may not
be wise to bet against them.
Like many large houses, Nicolas Feuillatte is a cooperative (meaning it takes in grapes from its various
grower members and uses them to make wine under its
own label), but the type of co-op is unique. The parent
company, Centre Vinicole–Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte
(CV-CNF), acts as the local co-op in Chouilly and is also
the largest co-op in all of Champagne. They could
actually be classified as a super co-op; not just a loose
organization of growers, CV-CNF is an organization
comprised of 84 other co-ops along with numerous
additional growers. When combined, this gives them
access to grapes grown by over 5,000 different growers
and 2,043 ha of vines spread across 281 villages (out of
319 total villages in Champagne).
History
Born in Paris in 1926, Nicolas Feuillatte was a man of
ingenious marketing and sales savvy who made his
fortune in the United States in the coffee and cocoa
businesses. In the 1950s, he moved to New York City
and began importing coffee from Africa, eventually
becoming its largest importer (this also enabled him to
serve as a representative for Africa’s Ivory Coast to the
United Nations). While based in New York City, his real
claim to fame was in establishing and eventually
dominating the instant coffee business.
After
translocating to his native land in the 1970s, he decided to
try his hand in a new market: Champagne. The brand got
its start in 1972 when he purchased 12 ha of vineyards in
the Montagne de Reims village of Bouleuse, releasing his
first wines in 1976. In 1978, he created the NV Réserve
Particulière and cleverly linked it to celebrities such as
Lauren Bacall and Jackie Onassis through marketing
initiatives.
Nicolas Feuillatte at the launch of his label in 1976
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Meanwhile, the local co-op in Chouilly, Centre Vinicole
Cooperative (CVC) was aggressively recruiting new
growers and co-ops during expansion of their operation.
Inevitably, discussions concerning a possible partnership
between Nicolas Feuillatte and CVC began in the mid1980s. In 1985 the first deal was struck: the co-op would
supply and produce wines for Feuillatte. By March of
1986, the CVC had purchased a majority interest in
Feuillatte, giving the co-op the rights to use the brand on
their wines – the Nicolas Feuillatte name giving the CVC
a chance showcase its best wines at a higher price point.
The co-op later purchased the brand outright in the early
1990s.
Now under the name CV-CNF, the company’s goal has
been to remove the traditional Champagne co-op
association from the Feuillatte brand. Wines under the
Feuillatte label are not simply blends of whatever grapes
are on hand, but well-thought out cuvées made from the
best wines selected specifically for this purpose. Today,
the CV-CNF co-op is known almost entirely for their
Feuillatte wines, although they still produce many other
wines sold under different labels for co-op and grower
members and private clients.
The brands Camille
d’Haubaine, Philippe de Nantheuil, and St. Nicholas are
examples of this.
Feuillatte accelerated through the 1990s – the brand
passed the million bottle mark early in the decade and hit
the year 2000 with sales of almost four million bottles. It
was at this time that Feuillatte set its sights on not only
increasing sales, but on becoming the largest Champagne
producer (in terms of bottles sold). They announced
publicly that their goal was to become the new Moët &
Chandon and appear everywhere with their basic nonvintage Brut. With a large sales force and key import
partners (45% of their sales are outside of France), they
followed this stated course, and by 2007 topped nine
million bottles, becoming the third-largest Champagne
brand in the world. Today, they have 304,000 hL of tank
capacity at their facilities and the ability to store almost
110 million bottles in their cellars. These numbers are
mind boggling: the tanks represent over 40 million bottles
of Champagne and the cellar capacity is equal to over
one-third of all of the bottles produced in Champagne in a
high production year.
Cellarmaster Jean-Pierre Vincent
Jean-Pierre Vincent is Feuillatte’s cellarmaster. He leads a
team of winemakers that oversee all of the wines made by
the CV-CNF, whether they are bottled under the Nicolas
Feuillatte label or not. The non-vintage Feuillatte blends
can consist of wines from over 150 villages, making these
some of the largest blend recipes I know of. Steel is used
for the fermentation and aging of most of the line’s wines,
although some 225L oak barrels from Burgundy are used
for the Cuvée 225 wines. Malolactic fermentation is
almost always practiced and most of the wines are aged
for at least thirty months before they are disgorged.
Tightly regulated vineyard practices are difficult to
maintain, due to the huge number of co-op members and
the massive amount of land in question, but in 1998
Feuillatte launched a Vignoble & Qualité (or “quality in
the vineyard”) initiative to address proper care of the
vineyards and to inform growers of the practices that
would work best from one plot to the next. Their overarching goal is to be natural whenever they can, but since
it is impossible to oversee everybody all the time, it can
be difficult to tell exactly how much oversight the CVCNF management really has. However, by selecting only
the top grapes for the Feuillatte line-up, mishandled or
inappropriately managed grapes are naturally weeded out
to some degree.
Feuillatte is very active in resource conservation, and is
proud of its well-deserved environmental track record.
They are committed to reducing their ecological impact
by increasing transportation efficiency, reducing waste,
recycling materials, and using less energy overall.
Impressively, the winery now uses the same amount of
water in a day as it did in an hour in 1999, despite a huge
increase in production size. And in 2007, they were the
first Champagne producer to receive the ISO 22000
certification, which focuses on food safety.
A Nicolas Feuillatte boutique in Paris
Champagne Warrior
Winemaking and the Winery
Issue 11
June 2011
38
One area in which I personally believe Feuillatte could
stand to improve is in their communication to consumers.
Sadly, the company does not think it appropriate or
necessary to release disgorgement dates or base vintage
information to the general public. They tend to follow the
“less information is more” mantra, especially regarding
the non-vintage wines, believing that the wines are
consistent from year to year and that most people drink
them fresh…so disgorgement date and base vintage
information is really not at all relevant. That said, with
some pushing, they did supply information to me, which I
have included in this issue.
praised upon release, but as quickly as they entered the
market, they disappeared, apparently replaced by two
single-cépage wines: a vintage Blanc de Blancs and a
vintage Blanc de Noirs. With so many grapes at
Feuillatte’s disposal and the positive response to the
single-village wines, I still wonder why they were pulled
from production, but we may never know.
Six of the twenty “different” Feuillatte wines
The Wines
Nicolas Feuillatte produces many wines – currently
eighteen different bottlings are offered, and there have
been a number of additional wines offered over the last
ten years as well. The core of the brand is the very same
wine that got Feuillatte going in the first place – the entrylevel NV Brut Réserve (Particulière) with its familiar blue
label. At the opposite end of the spectrum is the Palmes
d’Or, their tête de cuvée, which was launched in 1985.
The Palmes d’Or is probably best known for its
packaging – a dark, black dimpled bottle with a sparkly
gold label that was designed to invoke the image of a diva
in a ball gown. The initial vintages of this wine were
made in an all-white package, and in 1996, a Rosé Palmes
d’Or debuted. Interestingly, Feuillatte has plans to take
the Palmes d’Or line down a similar path as Dom
Pérignon – they eventually want to divorce it from the
main label and make it into its own brand. The highlights
of Feuillatte’s most recent additions to the range are the
Brut Extrem’ and Cuvée 225 lineup. Brut Extrem’ is a
very nice non-vintage, non-dosage Champagne; in fact, I
like it better than their NV Brut Particulière. The Cuvée
225 series is Feuillatte’s first foray into oak-treatment,
with at least 60% of the wines fermented and aged in
225L Burgundy barrels. It launched in the middle of the
2000s with the 1997 Cuvée 225 Brut and, more recently
in 2009, saw the release of the 2004 Cuvée 225 Rosé.
One of the more confounding marketing decisions
Feuillatte made in recent years was to briefly launch a line
of single-village wines starting with the 1995 vintage.
Aÿ, Ambonnay, Chouilly, Cramant, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger,
and Verzy wines were each released in one vintage or
another in the late 1990s. These wines were highly
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
The latest Feuillatte addition - Cuvée 225 Rosé
I am also constantly confused by Feuillatte’s non-vintage
label-changes and endless name-switches of the same
wine. The blue labeled NV Brut and the blue-labeled NV
Brut Réserve Particulière are the same wine. Why have
two (one for US and one for UK markets)? And then why
create another non-vintage Brut dressed in brown with its
contents almost identical to the blue-label? I hardly like
to even mention that the non-vintage and vintage
offerings of both the Rosé and the Blancs to Blancs can
sometimes be the same actual wine in two different
bottles, each priced differently, no less. Disgorgement
differences between the non-vintage and vintage wines
can come into play, but not always. It boggles my mind
why this is done, but Feuillatte says they do this in order
to cater to the demands of its different markets.
Two different Feuillatte NVs… that are the same?!?!
June 2011
39
NV Essential – another spin on the basic NV wine
As for the quality of the wines, my thoughts are mixed.
Overall, I find the style to be dry and stereotypically
correct, with good acidity and fresh citrus fruit in all of
the wines. The style is exactly what many people think of
when they say, “let’s open some Champagne”.
Feuillatte’s wines are never going to offend anyone, but I
don’t find the wines particularly noteworthy and they
rarely perform above their price points. In fact, I hardly
ever find reason to purchase Feuillatte wines unless they
are severely discounted (which actually happens quite
often). The wines are not poor buys, in my opinion, but
they don’t bring anything special to the table. The
vintage offerings are the best value for the money – these
wines are often $40-$60, drink well young and can handle
at least a few years of age. This is in contrast to the nonvintage range, which I recommend drinking soon after
purchase or within three years of disgorgement – you can
see by my notes in this issue that this cuvée does not
handle age very well. The Palmes d’Or is generally solid,
but doesn’t compare well to other wines of the same
price.
Palms d’Or – Feuillatte’s prestige cuvée
One thing I will say, Feuillatte excels at trying new things
in the winery and creating new and well-received cuvées.
Examples of this include the single-village offerings from
the mid-90s, non-dosage Brut Extrem’, and oakinfluenced Cuvée 225. Admirably, they aren’t afraid to
produce new bottlings, but they rarely think outside of the
box – all of these wines are the result of following a
popular trend rather than embarking on the start of a new
direction in Champagne-making. Personally, I would be
more interested in seeing Feuillatte focus on a very
expressive, high-quality wine that stands out from its
peers regardless of whether or not it panders to a currently
popular trend.
Despite the fact that Nicolas Feuillatte wines are not in
my regular rotation of purchased wines or something I
generally recommend to others, I greatly admire the
company’s drive and success. You can’t grow as fast and
as large as Feuillatte has without making a product that
consumers consistently enjoy. With the grapes the
company has access to, I know they can create anything
they want; my advice (not that they are listening to me)
would be to focus a bit more on quality and not just
quantity, and see where the grapes might lead.
Feuillatte’s basic vintage wines can offer great buys
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
June 2011
40
The Nicolas Feuillatte range of wines is:
Non-Vintage Range
- NV Brut (blue label)/Brut Réserve Particulière
/Brut Essemtial is a blend of 20% Chardonnay, 40%
Pinot Noir, and 40% Pinot Meunier. It is made in
stainless steel and goes through malolactic
fermentation. The wine is normally aged for two and
half to three years before disgorgement. Whether
labeled as NV Brut or NV Brut Réserve Particulière,
this blue bottle NV wine is the same – it is just
labeled differently for different markets. The NV
Essential is also the same only it is more
environmentally friendly as all of the packaging is
from recycled sources.
- NV Brut (brown label): is a blend made for grocery
stores in Europe. It is almost identical to the NV
Brut Réserve Particulière except that it may see a
little less time aging on the lees (two to two-and-ahalf years is normal). The winemaking and the blend
(20% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir, and 40% Pinot
Meunier) is identical to that of the blue label.
- NV Brut Premier Cru was discontinued in 2005.
When in production it was the typical NV Feuillatte
blend of 20% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir, and 40%
Pinot Meunier that was made in stainless steel and
went through malolactic fermentation. Where it
differed was that the grapes came only from Premier
Cru vineyards and the wine may have seen more time
aging before disgorgement.
-
-
-
-
-
NV Demi-Sec is essentially a younger and higherdosed version of the NV Brut Réserve Particulière. It
consists of 20% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir, and
40% Pinot Meunier, is made in stainless steel, and
sees full malolactic fermentation. Before release, it
normally ages on the lees around two years.
NV Blanc de Blancs is 100% Chardonnay, made in
steel and sees full malolactic fermentation. This is
sometimes a pure vintage wine even though it is
labeled as a non-vintage. Not all markets see this
wine – some see either this or the vintage version.
NV Rosé Brut consists of 10% Chardonnay, 60%
Pinot Noir and 30% Pinot Meunier. It only sees
stainless steel and goes through malolactic
fermention. Red wine is added to the final blend.
The wine sees two-and–a-half to three years aging
before disgorgement. This is sometimes a pure
vintage wine even though it is labeled as a nonvintage. Not all markets see this wine – some see
either this or the non-vintage version.
NV Brut Extrem’ sees no dosage and two to three
extra years on the lees (at least five years) when
compared to the rest of the range. It is made in
stainless steel, sees malolactic fermentation and
consists mainly of Chardonnay with some Pinot Noir
and Pinot Meunier in the blend.
35th Ans Edition Limitée was released in spring
2011 to celebrate the brand’s 35th anniversary. It is a
blend of 40% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir, and 30%
Pinot Meunier. It was aged for five years on the lees
and dosed as a Brut. As with the rest of the nonvintage range, it sees only stainless steel and went
through malolactic fermentation. This is a special,
one-time-only release.
The now discontinued NV Premier Cru
-
NV Brut Grande Réserve is Feuillatte’s upscale,
non-vintage made for European grocery stores. It
shares the same brown label color as the NV Brut.
Its composition (25% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir,
and 35% Pinot Meunier composition) has a little bit
more Chardonnay than the basic NV. It also sees a
longer time aging on the lees (at least three years).
Otherwise, the winemaking is identical to the basic
NV.
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
Feuillatte’s 35th anniversary cuvée
June 2011
41
Vintage Range
- Vintage Brut is the classic Feuillatte blend of 20%
Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir, and 40% Pinot
Meunier, but from only one year’s harvest. Only
stainless steel is used and the wine goes through
malolactic fermentation. It normally sees four years
of aging on the lees before release. Not all markets
see this wine – some see only the vintage Cuvée
Spéciale.
-
Vintage Cuvée Spéciale Brut is Feuillatte’s upscale
vintage wine. It is made of 40-60% Chardonnay, 2040% Pinot Noir, and 20% Pinot Meunier; stainless
steel is used and malolactic fermentation is practiced.
When compared to the regular vintage offering, this
uses more Chardonnay and may see extra time aging
on the lees.
Prestige Range
- Grand Cru Chardonnay Vintage hails from Avize,
Cramant, & Oger. It is 100% Chardonnay that only
sees stainless steel and goes through malolactic
fermentation.
- Grand Cru Pinot Noir Vintage comes from Aÿ and
Verzy; it is 100% Pinot Noir made in stainless steel
and sees malolactic fermentation.
The basic Feiullatte vintage offering
-
-
Vintage Rosé is similar to the NV version – it
consists of 10% Chardonnay, 60% Pinot Noir and
30% Pinot Meunier with red wine added to the blend.
It only sees stainless steel and goes through
malolactic fermentation. Red wine is added to the
final blend. When compared to the NV Rosé, this
may see an extra year aging on the lees. Not all
markets see this wine – some see either this or the
non-vintage version.
Vintage Blanc de Blancs hails from 100%
Chardonnay, is made in stainless steel, and goes
through malolactic fermentation. When compared to
the NV Blanc de Blancs, this will usually see more
aging on the lees – five to six years is the average.
Not all markets see this wine – some see either this or
the non-vintage version.
100% Grand Cru Pinot Noir from Nicolas Feuillatte
-
-
Cuvée 225 Brut Vintage is 50% Chardonnay and
50% Pinot Noir – a minimum of 60% of the wine is
fermented and aged in 225L oak barrels from
Burgundy; the rest sees stainless steel.
Cuvée 225 Rosé Vintage is 40% Chardonnay and
40% Pinot Noir still wines with an addition of 20%
of red wine. A minimum of 60% of the wine is
fermented and aged in 225L oak barrels from
Burgundy; the rest sees stainless steel.
Palmes d’Or
- Palmes d’Or Vintage is 50% Chardonnay from
Chouilly, Cramant, Mesnil-sur-Oger, and Montgueux
combined with 50% Pinot Noir from Ambonnay, Aÿ,
Bouzy, Verzenay, and Verzy.
- Palmes d’Or Rosé Vintage is 100% Pinot Noir, half
from Bouzy and half from Les Riceys, made as a
white wine and blended with a small amount of Pinot
Noir that is prepared as a rosé de saignée to add color
to the wine.
Feuillatte’s vintage Blanc de Blancs
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
June 2011
42
Nicolas Feuillatte Tasting Notes
Vintage
1998
1999
2002
2004
2005
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
1997
1998
1999
2003
1995
1998
1999
2000
2000
2002
2000
NV
2002
2004
2005
1985
1990
1991
1992
1995
1996
1997
1998
1999
1996
1997
1999
2000
2002
2003
Wine
Nicolas Feuillatte Blanc de Blancs
Nicolas Feuillatte Blanc de Blancs - early 01 dgd
Nicolas Feuillatte Blanc de Blancs - late 08 dgd
Nicolas Feuillatte Blanc de Blancs - mid 10 dgd
Nicolas Feuillatte Brut - 2003 base
Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Extrem' - late 07 dgd
Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Extrem' -late 09 dgd
Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Premier Cru - late 02 dgd
Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Réserve Particulière - early 09 dgd
Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Rosé - mid 07 dgd
Nicolas Feuillatte Cuvée 225
Nicolas Feuillatte Cuvée Speciale
Nicolas Feuillatte Grand Cru Chardonnay
Nicolas Feuillatte Grand Cru Pinot Noir
Nicolas Feuillatte Grande Réserve - mid 10 dgd
Nicolas Feuillatte Millésime
Nicolas Feuillatte Palmes d'Or
Nicolas Feuillatte Palmes d'Or Rosé
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
Type
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
NV BdB
NV BdB
NV BdB
NV Blend
NV Blend
NV Blend
NV Blend
NV Blend
NV Blend
NV Blend
NV Blend
NV Blend
NV Blend
NV Blend
NV Rosé
NV Rosé
NV Rosé
NV Rosé
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdN
NV Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Rosé
Vintage Rosé
Vintage Rosé
Vintage Rosé
Vintage Rosé
Vintage Rosé
June 2011
Rating
84-87
82-85
84-86
84-86
83-85
76-78
80-83
81-84
71-74
71-74
73-75
74-77
75-78
81-84
83-85
66-68
67-69
73-76
74-77
81-83
82-84
82-84
81-83
81-83
84-86
79-81
85-87
81-83
79-82
78-80
83-85
83-85
84-87
84-86
81-84
84-87
83-86
83-86
80-83
77-82
80-83
82-85
88-90
83-86
82-85
87-89
84-86
86-88
83-86
84-87
84-86
86-88
85-87
Potential
84-87
82-85
84-87
85-87
83-85
80-83
81-84
73-75
74-77
83-85
73-76
74-77
81-83
82-84
82-84
82-84
84-86
85-87
78-80
83-85
83-85
85-87
85-88
81-84
84-87
84-87
83-86
80-83
82-85
88-90
83-86
87-89
84-86
86-88
83-86
85-88
84-86
87-90
85-87
Page
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44
44
44
44
45
45
45
45
45
46
46
46
46
46
47
47
47
47
47
48
48
48
48
48
49
49
49
49
49
50
50
50
50
50
51
51
51
51
51
52
52
52
52
53
53
53
53
53
54
54
54
54
43
Rating
84-87
1998 Nicolas Feuillatte Blanc de Blancs
Potential
84-87
Doughy, toasty, creamy citrus and green apple aromas beckon invitingly. Once in the mouth the wine delivers, coating the
palate with creamy citrus that branches off of a bright, taut core of acidity. Toasty, bread dough notes complete the wine.
While not earth-shattering, it is at peak and I would encourage you to drink this up now or very soon.
(100% Chardonnay; Stainless steel; Malolactic fermentation; $40-60 US)
Rating
82-85
Potential
82-85
Orange, lemon, lime, and toast highlight an attractive nose that distinguishes this from its peers. The palate is very lemonand lime-driven, with a floral minerality that is pleasant but a bit overbearing – it essentially dominates all other
characteristics of the wine. This is well made, correct, and screams Chardonnay, but it lacks soul and personality.
(100% Chardonnay; Stainless steel; Malolactic fermentation; Disgorged fall 2006; $40-60 US)
Rating
84-86
Potential
84-87
Citrus blossoms emit a lovely fragrance from within this bright, sunshine-filled wine. A bit of dough frames the nose, but
the aroma is almost completely driven by citrus and flower-power. The palate is a touch more subdued, allowing apple
and pastry crust to join the lemon parade. With time this should reveal more depth and gain a supple, creamy texture.
This is enjoyable today and will improve given in a year or two, but it is not a wine I would consider for long-term
cellaring. Drink over the next five years.
(100% Chardonnay; Stainless steel; Malolactic fermentation; Disgorged mid 2008; $40-60 US)
Rating
84-86
Potential
85-87
Bright, pure lemon and lime blossoms dominate both the nose and palate of this wine. Creamy dough, mineral, and a hint
of apple also come through, but this holds citrus tight to its core. What I like best about this wine is its spunky personality,
which is missing from most other vintages of this cuvée. There are no issues if you plan to drink this now, but another
year or two will only make it better.
(100% Chardonnay; Stainless steel; Malolactic fermentation; Disgorged early 2010; $40-60 US)
Rating
83-85
Potential
83-85
If there was ever an example of a "one-and-done" wine this would be it. Upfront, this has all sorts of great qualities. It is
bright with fragrant lemon blossoms and flashy orange. There is a nice backdrop of cream and dough side by side with
smooth minerality, and after a taste or two, this seems to have a lot going for it. Unfortunately, after spending any amount
of time with a glass, you will realize that the wine itself has no substance. The finish is short and the body completely
lacks depth - its most complex moment is probably its bubbles. This is a disappointing example of Champagne
manufactured without flaw, but also without personality.
(100% Chardonnay; Stainless steel; Malolactic fermentation; Disgorged 2010; $40-60 US)
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
June 2011
44
NV Nicolas Feuillatte Blanc de Blancs - early 2001 disgorged
Rating
76-78
Potential
-
A creamy, toasty, sherried citrus nose gives you just about everything you need to know about this wine. Past its prime
and not very enjoyable, I will still give it credit for having lively, tart acid running jauntily throughout. I wish the acid had
some flavor to it or surrounding it, but I doubt many folks bought this wine to cellar for a decade. Best consumed at least
five years ago.
(100% Chardonnay; Stainless steel fermentation; Malolactic fermentation; Disgorged early 2001; $30-45 US)
NV Nicolas Feuillatte Blanc de Blancs - late 2008 disgorged
Rating
80-83
Potential
80-83
Slightly toasty and with good brightness from the citrus flavor, this does a nice job of introducing the taster to a very basic,
run-of-the-mill Chardonnay Champagne. It plays it safe at every turn, revealing citrus and dough plus a nice dollop of
minerality. I find it to be a bit too manufactured and programmed, even bland at times, but there is no denying that it fills
the right size shoe. Not exciting, but not off-putting either. Personally, I would pass in favor of something that at least has
something to say.
(100% Chardonnay; Stainless steel fermentation; Malolactic fermentation; Disgorged late 2008; $30-45 US)
NV Nicolas Feuillatte Blanc de Blancs – mid-2010 disgorged
Rating
81-84
Potential
81-84
Bright, tart, fruity and bound to bring a smile to your face, there is nothing complex about this wine, but that really doesn’t
matter. With bright orange, green apple, creamy dough, sun-kissed lemon, and a tart minerality that leads into a mouth
wetting finish, who needs complexity? This is enjoyable as is and a varietally correct example of Chardonnay.
(100% Chardonnay; Stainless steel fermentation; Malolactic fermentation; Disgorged mid 2010; $30-45 US)
Rating
71-74
NV Nicolas Feuillatte Brut - 2003 base
Potential
-
Lightly spiced floral aromas fill the nose, but after that, the wine pretty much goes downhill. A few creamy, toasty notes
can be found, but they are watered down and buried under over-the-hill caramel and bitter, bitingly green citrus. Chilling
this does improve the experience, as it masks most of the relatively unappetizing flavors. But my advice would be to not
bother cellaring this Feuillatte cuvée; it won't get better.
(20% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir, 40% Pinot Meunier; 2003 base vintage; Stainless steel; Malolactic fermentation;
Disgorged mid-2006; $28-40 US)
Rating
71-74
Potential
-
This wine is caught in an awkward stage between a citrus, floral youngster and a creamier, middle-aged bubbly.
Unfortunately, the result is a slightly bitter, green, floral concoction that makes it hard to finish my glass. This is just not
my style of wine. There is too much non-Champagne sparkling wine in the $10-$20 price range that blows this away; heck
there are numerous sub-$10 bottles that trump this with ease.
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
June 2011
45
Rating
73-75
Potential
73-75
This entry-level cuvée is correct and free of flaws; it is also relatively dry and has some crisp citrus notes. Unfortunately,
it is utterly boring, bland, and allows numerous bitter and green notes to run rampant throughout. Best when consumed
within two years of disgorgement.
Rating
74-77
Potential
74-77
Plenty fresh, with a nice kick of dry, lemony, floral acidity, this wine offers a few additional hints of dough as it warms up.
Unfortunately, like every other release I have ever tasted of this cuvée, it has a bitter and under-ripe citrus streak that turns
me off. On the plus side, it is still fairly young, which means it is probably at its peak. Drink up, enjoy, and buy
something better next time.
NV Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Extrem' - late 2007 disgorged
Rating
75-78
Potential
-
A bit far gone, this offers a nose that is reminiscent of oranges kept for days too long. The palate maintains a hint of
mineral and bread, but sherry and citrus dominates and weigh the overall product down. This was first released over two
years ago - in its prime, this was actually a very good effort for a big house, non-vintage non-dosé Champagne, and also
for Feuillatte in general. Today it is only a shell of its former self, reminding us that this cuvée is best consumed within a
couple years of disgorgement.
(Majority Chardonnay with some Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier; ~ 5 years aging on the lees; No dosage; Disgorged late
2007; $30-45 US)
NV Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Extrem' - late 2008 disgorged
Rating
81-84
Potential
-
Right on the edge of decline, this wine is still holding on to its youthful vigor and spunk. Bread, citrus, and mineral notes
transmit loud and clear on both the nose and palate, with only the occasional sherry accent beginning to daylight.
Extremely well made, this is a great match for shellfish. I only wish the rest of Feuillatte's non-vintage range displayed as
much quality as this.
2008; $30-45 US)
NV Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Extrem' -late 2009 disgorged
Rating
83-85
Potential
83-85
Toasty, sharp citrus aromas dive into a pool of grapefruit, orange, lemon, and bread flavors. With a mineral-driven scissor
kick, this wine maintains complexity and balance throughout its performance. Feuillatte has come up with a really nice
formula for this wine: the dominant Chardonnay provides an excellent mineral- and saline-coated core, while the Pinot
Noir and Meunier display fresh fruit and intrinsic sweetness. The five years of aging on the lees adds a bready quality for
an extra dimension. Not a bottle to cellar, but a terrific choice for a bone dry wine that you can pop and pour on purchase.
This is probably the wine from Feuillatte that impresses me the most.
2009; $30-45 US)
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
June 2011
46
NV Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Premier Cru - late 2002 disgorged
Rating
66-68
Potential
-
Very similar to the bottle of this wine that was disgorged a couple of years later, this wine is just plain odd, revealing
aromas and flavors of spiced, almost vinegar-like apple, citrus, and caramel. A few notes of toast appear, but overall, this
can be summed up as a dry, green, bitter mess of a wine that should have been consumed within a year of purchase.
(20% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir, 40% Pinot Meunier; Stainless steel; Malolactic fermentation; Disgorged late 2002;
$30-45 US)
NV Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Premier Cru - late 2004 disgorged
Rating
67-69
Potential
-
An odd nose of tart green apple greets you and tugs you toward even more weirdness. Tart citrus with a slippery, slime
green edge meshes with dry toast and dirty minerality. Caramel and cream past their "consume by" dates are smeared on
top. This wine has definitely not improved with six years of post-disgorgement aging and is best used as cooking wine at
this point.
(20% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir, 40% Pinot Meunier; Stainless steel; Malolactic fermentation; Disgorged late 2004;
$30-45 US)
NV Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Réserve Particulière - early 2009 disgorged
Rating
73-76
Potential
73-76
Notes of citrus and apple lead the way in front of bitter red berries, starting off straightforward and boring, though correct.
Unfortunately, with time, a green streak is revealed as the wine warms and then a vaguely mature citrus element sidles up.
When served chilled, this isn't that bad, but you shouldn't have to almost freeze a wine to make it palatable.
(20% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir, 40% Pinot Meunier; Stainless steel; Malolactic fermentation; Disgorged early 2008;
$30-40 US)
NV Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Réserve Particulière - early 2010 disgorged
Rating
74-77
Potential
74-77
Lemon, lime, apple, pear, and orange are coated in cream - this sounds like a pleasant combination until you meet the hard,
green, bitter edge that surrounds and detracts from these happy flavors. Not an awful wine, but one that doesn't really give
you a reason to buy or drink it. A pass in my book.
(20% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir, 40% Pinot Meunier; Stainless steel; Malolactic fermentation; Disgorged early 2010;
$30-40 US)
NV Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Rosé - mid-2007 disgorged
Rating
81-83
Potential
81-83
Soft, dry aromas of cherry and rose highlight the nose. The palate has a subtle hint of honey, biscuit, and cream, but is
mostly dominated by dried berries. With a few years of age this gains a nice mellow character, but more than 3-4 years in
the cellar and it starts a slow decline. Of all of the NV Feuillatte cuvées, this is the most consistent and the one that
handles 2-3 years of age the best.
(10% Chardonnay, 60% Pinot Noir, 30% Pinot Meunier; Red wine addition; Stainless steel; Malolactic fermentation;
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
June 2011
47
Rating
82-84
Potential
82-84
A mix of dried berries and red citrus leads into a slightly creamy palate of biscuit dough, flower petals, raspberry, orange,
and dry cherry. Time has calmed this wine down nicely and it is in a very nice spot. When this goes on sale and drops
into or below the mid-$20s, it is a pretty good buy.
Rating
82-84
Potential
82-84
Red berries mix with rose blossoms and a hint of citrus on the nose. The palate has a pleasingly tart red citrus backbone
with yeasty biscuit dough, dried cherries, and a hint of raspberry lemonade branching off of it. This wine is in a very nice
spot right now, especially for those who like a Rosé on the drier side that maintains a significant brightness. Not a wine I
would chase down, but when on sale, this is something worth adding to the cart.
Rating
81-83
Potential
82-84
This wine always leaves me slightly befuddled. Generally, I find it well made, but lacking in expression and altogether a
bit forced. That said, I do admire it for its intentional dryness, which goes against what most would assume a super-massproduction Rosé should taste like. There is nothing candied or confectionary about it; instead it is full of tart, red-tinged
citrus, dried cherry, raspberry, and a hint of yeasty dough. Quite enjoyable, this should improve with a year or two more
age while it smooths out.
Rating
81-83
1997 Nicolas Feuillatte Cuvée 225
Potential
-
This wine marks one of Feuillatte's first forays into large-scale oak barrel fermentation and aging. I think they did a decent
job in this early effort, although the oak is a bit too strong for the fruit. Better a couple years ago, this is now starting to
reveal dried-out citrus and shrinking peach and apple flavors. The end result is a wine that is slowly slipping away. I
recommend drinking up.
(50% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot Noir; A minimum of 60% of the wine is Fermented and aged in 225L oak barrels from
Burgundy - the rest sees stainless steel; $75-115 US)
Rating
84-86
Potential
84-86
This is quite different from the rest of the Feuillatte range, marked by its spunky boldness. Spiced, vanilla-laden citrus on
the nose and palate don’t take “No” for an answer. The oak is a little too strong for my liking and does overpower other
flavors, but the acid has a nice grip and delicious peachy apple notes. I find this quite enjoyable at first, but it does become
a bit monotonous by glass number two. I recommend drinking up soon as I imagine the oak is won’t integrate with time –
it will more likely become further disjointed.
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
June 2011
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Rating
79-81
Potential
-
A strange wine, offering plenty of peach, vanilla, and bright citrus on the nose, leading the mouth to believe this will be
fairly fruit-driven. The palate, however, has different ideas, allowing oaky, bitter citrus to dominate. The result is a
slightly disjointed wine that has already swallowed up both fruit and potential. From the nose alone are we left with
remnants of what might have been. Better on release and not worth pursuing today.
Rating
85-87
Potential
85-87
A mix of intoxicating and very strong aromas of vanilla, orange, spiced citrus, and bright apple define the vintage to a “T”.
Soft but firm acidity, mixes with fluffy red and yellow apple, creamy vanilla-laden dough, and juicy peach. This tastes
nothing like a traditional Champagne, but it is enjoyable and can bring a smile to your face. I don’t think it is worth the
money, but I have seen this go on sale below $50 and it is worth a try at that price-point if you want to explore. I will also
add that this wine isn't going to improve and is probably best enjoyed over the next two years.
Rating
81-83
1995 Nicolas Feuillatte Cuvée Spéciale
Potential
-
This is Feuillatte's mid-range vintage cuvée and it fits that bill admirably. I also find that it showcases the house style
more ably than some of the higher-end Grand Cru and prestige Palmes d'Ors. Its age is beginning to show: buttery
caramel dominates the nose, followed by a touch of tart citrus on the palate. Overall, I believe this to be on the downslope,
given that dessicated peach, soft white bread, sugar cookies, and creamy caramel have intruded. A touch of acidic
bitterness comes out on the finish, which doesn't bode well for future balance of this wine, but it’s still an enjoyable drink
(though I found it more enjoyable just two years ago).
(Approximately 60% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Noir, 20% Pinot Meunier; Stainless steel; Malolactic fermentation; $45-70
US)
Rating
79-82
1998 Nicolas Feuillatte Cuvée Speciale
Potential
-
As with most vintages of the Cuvée Speciale, this is aging rather rapidly. A year after release this drank quite well, but
now it is beginning to show inescapably over-the-hill peach and tiredly bland caramel flavors. There is a nice kick of
spiced apple cookie that comes out every now and then and a healthy helping of acidity, but this wine is devolving,
becoming more and more imbalanced with time. In my opinion, this should have been consumed a year or two ago.
US)
Rating
78-80
Potential
78-80
A touch of musty citrus on the nose blows off to a degree, but the aromas never quite meet in a unified package. The
palate lifts things up a bit, but even that can't quite save this wine from itself. Stony minerals and bitter citrus display a
nice freshness, but the week-old orange and peach flavors become more obvious with time and warmth. Hints of sugar
cookie dough and cream also appear, but the wine’s components appear to be aging at different rates and pulling each
other in different directions. This cuvée has some nice points, but not enough to overcome its weaknesses.
US)
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
June 2011
49
Rating
83-85
Potential
83-85
Fresh peach and earthy, floral notes imbue a relaxing nose with intrigue. The palate is alive with spicy cinnamon, brisk
citrus, and juicy yellow apple. At a high point in its life right now, this wine has the potential to drink well over the next
two to five years, which is unusual for this bottling. That said, this will not be a long-term ager, given that caramel notes
are just beginning to form, but it packs a great punch with more density behind it than other vintages of the Cuvée
Speciale. Overall, it isn't something I would spend over $50 on, but if you find it on sale around $40, it isn't a bad buy.
US)
Rating
83-85
2000 Nicolas Feuillatte Grand Cru Chardonnay
Potential
83-85
Fragrant lemon blossoms and hints of creamy dough illuminate an open nose, but the rest of the wine doesn't quite
measure up. While this has a good amount of citrus, apple, mineral, and dough character, the body seems watered down
and soul-less. I will give it credit for being fresh and drinkable for a while, but with so much else out there of equal or
better quality for less money, I can't recommend this.
(100% Chardonnay; Avize, Cramant, & Oger ; Stainless steel; Malolactic fermentation; $50-80 US)
Rating
84-87
2002 Nicolas Feuillatte Grand Cru Chardonnay
Potential
85-87
A nice step up from the 2000 vintage of this cuvée, this has a more zest, verve, and fragrantly floral aromatics. Orange-,
lemon- and lime-laced dough lead the flavor parade while creamy minerals touched by the smallest drop of honey join in
near the end. A long, lip-smacking finish leaves you smiling. Not a wine to knock your socks off, but quite enjoyable.
(100% Chardonnay; Avize, Chouilly, Cramant, & Le Mesnil-sur-Oger; Stainless steel; Malolactic fermentation; $50-80
US)
Rating
84-86
2000 Nicolas Feuillatte Grand Cru Pinot Noir
Potential
85-88
Starting off rather unforgiving, after around 15 minutes of air time the wine opens up nicely to a slightly bitter, red berry,
Pinot Noir Champagne profile. A few hints of biscuit dough and apple pop out too, but this is mostly a dark, cutting,
berry-driven wine. While not symbolic of any particular terroir or sense of place, it does give an accurate snapshot of
quality Pinot Noir from the 2000 vintage. Enjoyable now, this has the potential to improve over the next five years.
(100% Pinot Noir; Aÿ and Verzy; Stainless steel; Malolactic fermentation; $50-80 US)
NV Nicolas Feuillatte Grande Réserve - mid 10 disgorged
Rating
81-84
Potential
81-84
This is yet another Feuillatte non-vintage wine that is hard to distinguish from the rest of the bunch. On paper, it has a
higher percentage of Chardonnay, but in the glass it doesn't really stand out as a different animal. There are plenty of
apples and a creamy citrus aspect to accompany some faint biscuit dough notes, but nothing gives this wine true character.
It isn't bad; in fact, it is easy enough to drink, but you won't remember it when the bottle is gone.
(25% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir, 35% Pinot Meunier; Stainless steel; Malolactic fermentation; Disgorged mid 2010;
$30-45 US)
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
June 2011
50
Rating
84-87
2002 Nicolas Feuillatte Millésime
Potential
84-87
Drinking very well right now, this shows bright citrus, apple, and bread dough aromas. Creamy citrus and soft dough on
the palate are assisted by apple and red peach in the wings. While tasty, I don't see any potential for improvement and I
am not sure how long it will continue to drink this well. My advice would be to consume over the next two to three years
while it is still fresh and youthful.
(20% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir, 40% Pinot Meunier; Stainless steel; Malolactic fermentation; $40-55 US)
Rating
83-86
Potential
84-87
Currently on the young side, this bright, tart, citrus, apple, peach, and pear concoction should settle down and improve
over the next five years. It is still a bit primary, but doughy notes are slowly emerging from slumber and will likely
become creamy and biscuity with some time. All in all, this is well made and worth picking up when it falls below $50.
Rating
83-86
Potential
83-86
Fresh and full of peach and citrus, this is easy to drink and pleasing to just about anyone who gives it a go. It is missing a
bit of spunk, though. I cannot fault this wine for its correctness or stereotypical Champagne qualities - it has great citrus, a
doughy, yeasty character, fresh apples, and a nice tart finish. I personally find it very uninteresting, but it is hard to deny
that this is a decent effort and it is worthy of recognition for that.
Rating
80-83
Potential
-
Past its prime (though still enjoyable), this debut vintage of Feuillatte's prestige cuvée should be consumed now. Sherried
caramel and toasty citrus overpower a softly fading acidic core that makes the occasional feeble attempt to contribute
freshness. There are some very nice cream notes interspersed with peachy apple shadows, but this cuvée comes across
more like a memory than anything else. Never a blockbuster, this was better decade ago. Drink up.
(50-60% Chardonnay from Chouilly, Cramant, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, & Montgueux , 40-50% Pinot Noir from Aÿ,
Ambonnay, Bouzy, Verzenay, & Verzy; Stainless steel; Malolactic fermentation; $90-$150)
Rating
77-82
Potential
-
This bottling has exhibited some variability, with some bottles appearing to have aged faster than others, but the one thing
all bottles have in common is that the wine inside has seen better days. Toasty, sherried, dried out orange and peach are
none too appetizing on both the nose and palate. The remaining acidity is sadly bland and a touch bitter. The best bottles
have a soft, orange cream note that brightens them just a bit. Drink up or donate to friends who think Champagne comes
from California if you have any left.
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
June 2011
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Rating
80-83
Potential
80-83
This is a rather boring wine, but in decent shape, which is more than I can say of the 1985 and 1990 versions of the Palmes
d'Or. This still possesses taut acidity and a striking creamy minerality, but there just isn't much fruit to balance the other
side of the see-saw. Honey and sherry-laced dough come out late to play, but in the end this is simply monotonous. It
reminds me of the kid from grade school who was physically and mentally in step, but just had no personality whatsoever.
Rating
82-85
Potential
82-85
Still drinking quite well when compared to the normal aging curve for Feuillatte, this wine has creamy apples in spades.
In fact, it is distinguished from other vintages of this wine by the intensity of its apple and steel flavors. At its core it has a
slightly bitter nuance and a helping of cream spread over dough and minerals. A few squirts of red citrus add interest, but
this wine doesn't have anything that elevates it above the norm. Pop it now if you have a bottle and enjoy.
My Favorite Nicolas Feuillatte to Date
Rating
Potential
88-90
88-90
Upon opening, the nose reveals a bit of age, but the wine becomes much more lively after the musty aromas blow off (a
byproduct of being stuck in a bottle for most of the last fifteen years). Once revitalized, apples, cream, pastry dough, and
mineral-tinged citrus are let loose from a Champagne that is terrific now and will be so again in the future. Lemons and
apples pave the finish with welcome tartness. This wine has always stood out from the Feuillatte pack, whether young or
old, and is well worth your time.
(50-60% Chardonnay from Chouilly, Cramant, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, & Montgueux; 40-50% Pinot Noir from Aÿ,
Ambonnay, Bouzy, Verzenay, & Verzy; Stainless steel; Malolactic fermentation; $90-$150 US)
Rating
83-86
Potential
83-86
A bit difficult to get a hold on, this wine has a trio of different personalities. Sometimes, it is flamboyant and fruity,
sometimes it can be bland and bitter, and sometimes it is barely manages to cough up feeble sherried notes from its death
bed. Like Sybil , what we end up with is a messy situation and a wine that just can't quite pull it all together. A mouthful
can be described by just about any fruit you can think of - melon, apple, orange, red berries, and peaches - but also by
sherry, toast, creamy dough and a sharply empty acidity. Given the characteristics of the vintage and past performance of
this cuvée, I don't think this will ever come together sanely - I recommend consuming sooner rather than later. There are a
lot of positives to this, but the wine’s schizophrenia prevents me from recommending further aging in good conscience.
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
June 2011
52
Rating
82-85
Potential
-
A touch past its prime, this wine is nevertheless enjoyable. Lightly caramelized apples, cookie dough, and fading citrus
merge with creamy lemons and lingering hints of soft pear. Not a bad effort for the vintage, but not exactly worth the
price. In my book, this is a wine to open if you have it in the cellar, but only worth purchasing if you are filling slots for a
vertical.
Rating
87-89
Potential
87-89
This wine is totally open and giving all it's got. The nose is brimming with apples, lemons, limes, and even a hint of
melon. Captivating on the nose and quite tasty on the palate too, where apple pie, lemon, and cream start a raucous party.
A dry finish kissed by minerals and tart apples closes things off nicely. Perfect for drinking now, this is a top-notch effort
that showcases the vintage perfectly.
Rating
84-86
Potential
84-86
This wine exhibits citrus blossom and apple on the nose and palate. It lets a good deal of minerality in, though this is
compromised by a thin acidity that manages to feel both empty and sharp-edged. In the end, the fruit tries but does not
succeed. I would not turn down a glass, but I'm not sure the wine is going to change at all other than to turn a bit more
creamy. Sadly, this just doesn't stand out from the pack or do anything to make me think it deserves its prestige cuvée
billing.
Rating
86-88
1996 Nicolas Feuillatte Palmes d'Or Rosé
Potential
86-88
Quite subdued on the nose, offering just a hint of dark berries, this is a wine that reminds me of a comfortable, well-worn
and well-loved leather chair. The palate is medium-bodied and very smooth, with touches of spice and caramel coating
soft, creamy, familiar berries. Red apples also curve comfortably around an essence of dry, earthen forest floor. I believe
this is drinking about as well as it ever will right now, and will continue to do so over the next three or so years. A well
made wine that conjures up visions of a crackling fireplace in a favorite hunting lodge.
(100% Pinot Noir - half from Bouzy and half from Les Riceys; Saignée; Stainless steel; Malolactic fermentation; $125-200
US)
Rating
83-86
Potential
83-86
Currently drinking about as well as it is ever going to, this is full of dark berries, spice, caramelized biscuit, and a touch of
soft apple. Not a wine that is ever going to blow you away, like most vintages of the Palmes d'Or Rosé it is easy to drink,
and a perfect wine to relax with. Even though this doesn't bowl me over, I keep coming back to the creamy berry notes it
offers; this is a wine that will grow on you.
US)
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
June 2011
53
Rating
84-87
Potential
85-88
Fairly dark in color (even for this cuvée, which generally tilts towards the darker side) the nose is rather tight, though it
does offer deep, seductive berry scents. Dry, darkly fruited berries lead a palate that is caught amidst the transition from
youth to adulthood. Hints of maturing, honey-kissed cream biscuit quarrel with a somewhat empty acidity that will
mellow with time, but like any angry teen, the wine clearly isn't showing its best side right now. Personally, I would like
to see a bit more fruit, but the dark notes are quite attractive. Give this another 3-5 years and I think the rough edges will
smooth out nicely.
US)
Rating
84-86
Potential
84-86
Like the 1999, this 2000 is quite dark both in color and aroma/flavor profile. This cuvée also has a brooding, spicy, earthy
note that is reflective of the vintage. While many Rosé Champagnes from 2000 posses decent aging potential and are
expected to improve over time, this doesn't quite have the acidity and complexity required. I don't see this wine blooming
into a spicy, berry, forest-filled melee – instead, I see it remaining darkly brooding in the shadows. If you are into earthy
Rosés then this is a wine for you, but beware: it doesn’t offer is a lot of brightness or complexity.
US)
Rating
86-88
Potential
87-90
A very nice mix of both bright and dark notes, this cuvée seems to have an extra fruity kick missing from most vintages of
this wine. It still has the trademark dark and almost tannic berry fruit, but here it is lively rather than relaxed. A wine that
will certainly please the crowds, this has intrinsic sweetness without being cloying. Touches of spiced apple and biscuit
dough also contribute both complexity and a bright future. Certainly very good right now, this will be even better in five
to ten years.
US)
Rating
85-87
Potential
85-87
The 2003 vintage suits this wine rather well, as the normal dark notes become lightened by creamy, bright berry on both
the nose and palate. A slightly spicy, honey-kissed doughyness gives this wine a bit of heft in the middle. Definitely not
profound, this is tasty and a nice spin on the norm for this cuvée. True, it has a touch of overblown vintage character, but
the wine manages to balance it with a lovely dried berry spice.
US)
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
June 2011
54
A Candid Conversation with Chantale Bara
There isn’t a more charming lady in Bouzy than Chantale Bara, the current head of Paul Bara and the leader of the Club
Trésors de Champagne (otherwise known as the Spécial Club). Chantale, daughter of Paul Bara, has continued to produce
fantastic Pinot Noir-driven Champagnes for the house and has experimented with different vineyard and winemaking
techniques, but has done so humbly and thoughtfully since she took over. She is not one to change anything unless a truly
positive outcome is assured. I recently had a wonderful visit with her where she openly discussed many topics of
significance to both of us. My questions are in bold with Chantale’s responses in italics (as always, please be aware that the
text below is not a direct quotation, but a summary of our conversation).
Chantale Bara in her office at the winery

Your father was Paul Bara; did he start the family business?
The Champagne house of Paul Bara was actually started by my grandfather, August Bara, in 1947; of course, the house
wasn’t called Paul Bara then. My father took over in 1953 and was the one who really turned us in to what we are
today. We actually did grow grapes and then sell them off before 1947 – we just didn’t make Champagne until my
grandfather decided to give it try. I got involved in the winery in 1982 and really dove in with the 1989 vintage. My
father didn’t even begin to slow down until 1995.
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Issue 11
June 2011
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
Yours was one of the first grower Champagnes imported and widely distributed in the United States.
How did that come about?
It was a bit of luck. Interest in Champagne and wine in general was rising in the United States in the 1970s and there
was actually a movement to find smaller, artisanal producers. I think this was linked to the global advent of more
modern production and industrialization methods that the 1970s brought in all sorts of areas – especially food. A
number of US importers were looking for small, artisanal Champagne producers in the 1970s and we began working
with Kermit Lynch in 1975. The first vintage we shipped to Kermit was the 1976.

What is the story behind the Comtesse Marie de France?
It is a very interesting one. My father had a good friend who owned a
restaurant (which closed long ago) and he approached my father about
making a special wine to sell. It started out as request for a special label for
just the restaurant, but my father decided to take it further. He decided to
produce a special wine that stood out from the rest of our range and was of
exceptional quality. The result was the Comtesse Marie de France, a 100%
Pinot Noir wine from old vines, which debuted with the 1968 vintage.
As for the name, my father’s friend came up with it – he was fascinated with
the history of Champagne. Comtesse Marie de France was the daughter of the
King Louis VII and she married one of the Comtes de Champagnes, Henry I,
after which the two of them lived here in Champagne. This wine is actually
registered as a Marque d'Acheteur (M.A.). This is because the wine was
originally produced for the restaurant and was registered as a private label.
It was meant to be a stand-alone wine outside of the Paul Bara range. If you
look carefully, you will find the front label doesn’t actually mention Paul Bara
(though the neck and sometimes other labels will). Production is also quite
small – only 1,000-8,000 bottles in a vintage.

How do you view your Spécial Club wines vs. the Comtesse Marie?
All three (Spécial Club Blanc, Spécial Club Rosé, and Comtesse Marie) are unique and high-quality wines. The
Comtesse Marie is from a selection of our oldest and very best Pinot Noir plots. The Spécial Club wines are Pinot Noirdominant, but they also include the best of our Chardonnay vines. We look for older vines in the Comtesse Marie while
age isn’t as much of a factor in the Spécial Club wines. They are very different wines; in the end I think the difference is
that the Spécial Club wines are blends and the Comtesse Marie is a Blanc de Noirs.

Is there a plan to continue both a white and Rosé Spécial Club?
Yes, both will continue. I like making both a white and Rosé. You have to remember that
both wines are limited: less than 10,000 bottles of white are produced in a vintage and only
2,000 bottles of Rosé. With proper selection, we can make both wines be of very high
quality. We started the Rosé with the 2004 vintage and have just followed it with the 2005.
2006 will come next.

Over time, how have things changed at Paul Bara? How have they stayed the same?
We have never used any oak as we feel it overpowers the Bouzy Pinot Noir in both white and red wines, but we are
experimenting to see how certain types or sizes of barrel affect the wines. Maybe we will find the right formula where
we feel that oak improves them, and maybe not. We did malolactic fermentation until 1989-1990 and now do not
because we feel this practice allows our wines to express themselves more and develop better. For dosage, we use MCR
(Moût Concentré Rectifié). In the vineyards, we no longer use insecticides or herbicides – the goal is to be as natural as
possible. Also, we are starting to plough by horse in some of our vineyards.
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
June 2011
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
What is the story behind the recent label change?
Ahhh, the new labels. I know Kermit Lynch and the United States public does not seem to like them much, but overall,
the feedback has been good. Actually, Kermit dislikes them so much that we have given in and we are using the old
labels for the US market.
Old Label

New Label
How much does the illegal importation or the grey market impact you?
This is a big problem. I am suspicious when people in the US mention our label change since most of the wines in the
US should be of the older label style. Be careful if you find our wine with a new label and check to see if it has a Kermit
Lynch sticker; if it doesn’t, I would advise you to stay away. Who knows where that wine came from and how it got to
you? Was it mishandled? We don’t know. But what I do know is that it wasn’t supposed to end up in the US. I know
consumers like good deals, but this type of activity hurts legitimate business and risks the provenance of the bottles.
Still, what can we do? We are a small producer and must choose our battles, but I would hope that consumers would
support wines that come through the proper channels and that experience proper care during transit. How can you
support natural, small, artisan wines, but also support the grey market that ignores the rules of honest business? I don’t
understand this.

What is your favorite Paul Bara wine?
It changes vintage by vintage, but I generally prefer the Comtesse Marie and Spécial
Club wines, although the straight vintage wine can also tug at me. Currently I really like
all of our 2002 wines, the 1998 Comtesse Marie, and the 2004 Spécial Club Rosé. If I
am forced to pick one wine over all others, I would choose our non-Rosé Spécial Club
because I like how it illustrates what we grow in the vineyards – we grow both
Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in a ratio similar to what is in the Spécial Club. To me, the
Spécial Club showcases the best of Paul Bara.

Can you share your thoughts on the 2010 vintage?
This was a difficult vintage. Chardonnay was good in Bouzy, but the Pinot Noir was too light – almost watered down.
In general, we found the wines to have too much alcohol, decent acidity, but not enough overall maturity. Mold was also
a problem and we had to discard almost 40% of what we would normally harvest. I do not expect great things from
2010, but it isn’t a terribly bad vintage. It is a vintage to blend with and to add to our non-vintage wines. I am still
contemplating a vintage. If we do make some vintage wines, it will be no more than 10,000 bottles which is less than
one-third of what a normal vintage production would be.

As the head of the Spécial Club, is there anything new and exciting
consumers can look forward to?
We changed the labels! The current Spécial Club labels have been around since
1988, but soon you will see a new, sleeker design. I really like the new look and
would love to hear what others think. I expect the reaction will be more uniform and
overall more positive than the regular Paul Bara label change.
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
June 2011
57
Champagne News and Updates
The Sale of
Piper-Heidsieck
Charles
Heidsieck
and
Charles Heidsieck and Piper-Heidsieck have a long and
storied history in Champagne. Their origin dates back to
the Champagne house that Florenz-Ludwig, a.k.a FlorensLouis Heidsieck, founded in 1785. After Florens-Louis’
passing in 1828, internal family divisions led to three
separate Heidsieck houses taking root in the midnineteenth century, each retaining the iconic Heidsieck
name in order to capitalize on its existing popularity.
Piper-Heidsieck (originally called simply “Heidsieck”,
and, incidentally, the true successor to the original
company Florens-Louis founded) began in 1834 under
Christian Heidsieck, a nephew of Florens-Louis – it
gained the Piper association when Christian’s widow
married one of Christian’s business partners, HenriGuillaume Piper, in 1837. Charles Heidsieck was
established by “Champagne Charlie” Charles Camille
Heidsieck (the son of another of Florens-Louis’ nephews)
in 1851. The third house, Heidsieck & Co., was also
started in 1834 by Henri-Louis Walbaum (yet another
nephew of Florens Louis). However, Heidsieck & Co.
remains a completely separate entity from Charles
Heidsieck and Piper-Heidsieck today.
So what could possibly explain this bizarre state of
affairs? There are a number of reasons, but no single one
can explain the entire situation. The elimination of
Charles Heidsieck’s Champagne Charlie and PiperHeidsieck’s Rare in the 1990s (intended to cause
increased focus on Krug as a prestige Champagne, since
Rémy owned Krug at the time) robbed both Charles and
Piper of an important place in the prestige cuvée market.
The move to hold back more wine to build up the quality
of the Charles Heidsieck NV Brut Reserve led to fewer
bottles of it available on the shelves in the first half of the
1990s. Sadly, the “out of sight, out of mind” idiom seems
to have taken hold, and it appears that customers chose
other wines instead and never looked back. The brilliant
Mis en Cave concept of the Charles Heidsieck NV Brut
Reserve resulted in a truly spectacular wine, but also
confused a portion of its customer base and resulted in an
overall drop in sales (see Issue 6 for a full story on this).
Other small issues cropped up as well, but no huge, overarching, unsolvable problem took shape. Unfortunately, I
think the troubles Rémy suffered were the culmination of
several separate issues into one enormous vortex of a
Sales Disaster Perfect Storm.
Finally, after formulating a well-researched plan and
staying on course for two decades, the clamor of investors
reached the breaking point; by 2010 Rémy’s Champagne
business was simply too much of a drag on their books.
Sadly, the obvious place for Rémy to cut was the least
The treasured cellars were part of the deal
Champagne Warrior
Rémy Cointreau purchased the two separate Charles and
Piper houses in 1989 and they invested heavily in
improving the quality of both brands: a new winery was
built, the old cellars were renovated, an experienced,
passionate, top-notch staff was brought in, and improved
winemaking was pursued enthusiastically, with quality
prioritized over expense. The end result was a line-up of
thrilling wines that delivered more bang for the buck than
many of their competitors and received repeated critical
praise. It should have been a recipe for tremendous
success, but instead, throughout the last decade sales
continued to drop and the two houses struggled to break
even. Every business move – all of which improved the
wines – made sense logically and looked great on paper,
but for some reason, failed to increase sales.
Issue 11
June 2011
58
profitable portion of their business that still retained brand
power: Charles and Piper. In late 2010, Rémy hired
Crédit Agricole to find a buyer for the brands in hopes of
getting as much as 450 million € in a sale of stocks,
vineyards, contracts, and premises.
As the potential for a sale became public in November of
2010, speculation raged: who would purchase the two
Champagne houses? Would it be LVMH, Diageo, a
Chinese company? The rumor mill spun continuously.
Burning questions were mulled over by those with
nothing much else to do, such as myself… “Would the
houses be sold together or separately? And will the
vineyards stay intact?” In the end, a sale was worked out
in early March 2011. The Société Européenne de
Participations Industrielles (EPI) purchased Charles and
Piper-Heidsieck for approximately 400 million €.
Included in the deal was everything associated with the
two houses: the 40 million bottle inventory, the winery
and other premises, the 65 ha of land, and almost 800 ha
of vineyard contracts.
EPI is a French-owned company started and currently run
by the Descours family. It is essentially a holding
company for their various businesses worldwide. They
deal in mostly upmarket and luxury clothing labels such
as Bonpoint, Alain Figaret, François Pinet, and JM
Weston, though they also own the Cotes du Luberon
estate Château La Verrerie in southern France.
Christopher Descours heads EPI and has done a good job
of nurturing and growing his businesses while allowing
them to maintain individual identities.
are glad to see the houses remain in French hands and
directed by a family company. I am also hopeful that the
Descours family will be able to maintain the high quality
of the wines at the same time they figure out a way to
make them both successful businesses. It may be overly
optimistic, but right now I feel that Charles and Piper
have a new lease on life and their potential is shining
brightly.
The Current Status of the 2011 Vintage
The 2011 Vintage is a hot one so far
We are going to keep this short and simple – 2011 is
shaping up to be a very atypical year, but not necessarily a
bad one. It has consistently been sunny and very dry
since April. Some minimal frost damage did occur due to
early morning freezing temperatures in April, but the
temperatures were back up above 22˚C/70˚F by the
afternoons. Right now, the vines are close to a month
ahead of schedule, as flowering is complete. While this is
abnormal and is likely indicative of an August harvest, the
vines are very healthy with little sign of disease. This
doesn’t mean a whole lot yet, but the overall feel is
mainly positive. It remains too early to conclude much,
but a lot of Champenois may have to shorten their
summer vacation schedule if the warm weather continues.
The End of Three Wines
The famous Champagne Charlie
In the end, the houses stayed connected to everything that
“belonged” to them, so we, the Champagne-obsessed, can
all breathe a little easier. For me, the biggest worry was
that the brands might simply become a generic label,
purchased by someone interested in simply stripping
away the vineyards and contracts to make fast cash.
Myself and other Champenois with whom I have spoken
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
It’s a fact of life that everything must come to end, and
Champagnes are no different. While it isn’t uncommon
for a cuvée to be discontinued, it usually befalls wines
that aren’t well known or don’t have a great track record.
Sadly, three much-loved wines have left us for good this
year. Billecart-Salmon’s Grand Cuvée, Perrier-Jouët’s
Millésime, and Vilmart’s Cuvée Création are now naught
but historic legends. All were great wines, but each was
sacrificed for the same admirable reason – to strengthen
the rest of their producer’s range. There will be no
replacements for these wines – instead, their grapes will
now be used in their sister’s and brother’s fermentation
tanks. A few more details for the die-hard fans follow.
June 2011
59
problem. Because the quality of the Millésime was so
similar to the higher-end and higher-priced Belle Epoque,
and because production was limited and demand was low,
the answer was staring Perrier-Jouët in the face. All the
grapes previously used for Millésime will now be used to
strengthen the Belle Epoque cuvées and, in some cases,
the non-vintage offerings as well. I’ll miss the wine, but I
doubt many outside of the UK will notice and that is a
shame.
Billecart-Salmon launched their Grand Cuvée with the
1982 vintage, billed as an expression of grapes from their
best Chardonnay plots. Recently, they released the 1998
vintage, ostensibly made from a slight majority of
Chardonnay, but this made it uncomfortably similar to
their Nicolas François cuvée, which historically was
always Billecart’s top wine. The Grand Cuvée has
always been a very nice Champagne, but it was often
overlooked, especially with the launch of the Clos SaintHillaire, which became Billecart’s new prestige wine
upon the launch of its initial 1995 vintage. I doubt
anyone would deny the quality of the Grand Cuvée, but it
eventually became hard to distinguish between it and the
Nicolas François; both were vintage wines priced at the
prestige level and both were sourced from “the best
grapes” Billecart-Salmon could find. Billecart finally
decided this year that it was best to let the Nicolas
François continue alone, so a large portion of the grapes
that previously went into the Grand Cuvée will now go
into the Nicolas François, which should improve it going
forward. I’ll miss the Grand Cuvée, but I am perhaps
even happier to see increased focus on the Nicolas
François.
Perrier-Jouët’s last Millésime is the 1998. This basic
vintage offering had been seen on shelves less often over
the years, until eventually only the United Kingdom
received any bottles at all. So this year the choice was
made to shut production down. I’m saddened by this,
since I have found this wine to be of very high quality and
almost equal to the Belle Epoque, but therein lay the
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
Vilmart’s Cuvée Création was launched in 1990 as a
prestige cuvée to showcase a few of Vilmart’s best
vineyards and their experimentation with a new oak
regime. The wine changed a bit over time, but was
always a spicy, fruity, in-your-face style that drank
wonderfully in its youth. If you have ever tasted the 1997
and 1998 vintages of this wine then you know exactly
what I am talking about – this pair of vintages defines the
very soul and essence of Cuvée Création. Why was such
a showstopper discontinued?
Winemaker Laurent
Champs loved the wine, but felt that having two prestige
wines (Coeur de Cuvée is Vilmart’s other prestige
offering) limited what he could do with the lower end of
the non-vintage range. As such, the current release – the
2000 vintage – is the last of the Création. At least the
line’s non-vintage Grand Cellier and Grande Reserve are
the better for it.
I’ll miss all three of these wines, but I can’t fault each
producer for choosing to end their runs. It makes sense to
use the grapes to strengthen other wines in their
respective portfolios, even if it runs counter to the idea of
simply expanding the range in hopes of making a fast
buck. From here on out I will savor my remaining bottles
of these three cuvées, remembering what they offered and
where they came from every time I drink one. And I will
continue to hope that their end will lead each producer’s
current lineup to shine a little brighter.
June 2011
60
One to Watch
Champagne Daniel Savart
Daniel and Frédéric Savart are currently producing some of the best wines to come out of the Montagne de Reims villages
Ecueil and Villers-aux-Noeuds. With production of a mere 3,000 total cases a year, this Ecueil-headquartered winery is and
has been making tiny quantities of superior Champagne for years. All the wines the Savarts produce are worth searching out,
although they will be difficult to find – stopping by the winery is still the best way to take a bottle (or a case) home.
Winemaker Frédéric (Daniel’s son) is trying to make the wines more available to a broader audience and is looking to expand
outside of cellar door sales and a few select retail outlets in France and the US. Given the miniscule production and
supremely high quality of the wines, I can only imagine the demand his bottles will one day experience, but for right now, I
advise you to track them down and enjoy the fruits of a challenging search.
I first tasted the Savart wines a couple of years ago and was blown away by the quality of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, and
yet the wines have only improved since. Coming from Montagne de Reims, the wines tend to be Pinot Noir-driven, but the
Chardonnay they make is also very tasty. The winemaking is entirely adapted to the different wines produced – this is a style
of winemaking that I appreciate. Different wines may or may not see malolactic fermentation and may or may not see any
oak. Dosage also varies throughout the range, with anywhere from 2 to 9 g/L used. I’ve been very impressed by these fruitand mineral-driven wines that display an underlying richness; I wholeheartedly recommend you search them out while they
still fly under the radar.
The wines Savart produces are:
-
Frédéric Savart
Champagne Warrior
Brut Réserve – Entry-level wine that makes up over 50% of Savart’s
production; pure Pinot Noir
Brut Sélection – Pinot Noir-dominant blend that is always fruit-driven and
lengthy on the finish
Bulle de Rosé – My personal favorite, this Pinot Noir-dominant blend deftly
balances bright, dark, and spicy fruit
Millésime – Slightly Pinot Noir-dominant, this wine is full of minerality, fruit,
and sports a zesty spine
Calliope – Vintage Chardonnay-dominant blend that is fruity yet possess power
and richness
La Dame de Coeur – Pure Chardonnay vintage prestige cuvée, which reveals
impressive richness, acidity, and minerality
Contact Information:
Champagne Daniel Savart
1 Chemin de Sacy
51500 Ecueil, France
[email protected]
http://www.champagne-savart.com/
Issue 11
June 2011
61
Un solved Mysteries: Nicolas Feuillatte
Ever pick up a bottle of Nicolas Feuillatte Champagne and wonder when it was disgorged? Unfortunately, the bottle labels
won’t tell you and a call to the winery usually doesn’t turn up much information either. Luckily, it just so happens that the
tracking code on the bottle gives you the approximate date of disgorgement. If you look at the neck foil on most bottles of
Feuillatte, you will find a row or two of printed numbers. These numbers give you all you need to know. Most bottles will
have two lines of text that will read:
DDDYYHH:MM
L######
On any bottle of Feuillatte (vintage or non-vintage), the line of DDDYYHH:MM can be decoded as follows:
DDD
This identifies the (approximate) numeric day of the year on which the bottle was disgorged
YY
The last two digits of the year in which the bottle was disgorged
HH:MM is related to the time of day, and probably not particularly relevant, but perhaps interesting.
For example, a bottle with a code of:
1000812:22
L349833
means that you have a bottle of that was disgorged in April of 2008 around noon. (Just ignore the second string of numbers.)
With this information, you can now tell the disgorgement date of a bottle of Nicolas Feuillatte Champagne.
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
June 2011
62
Champagne Tasting Notes
Producer Index
Producer
Champagne Warrior
Page
Bonnaire
Cedric Bouchard
A. Margaine
Jean Milan
Moët et Chandon
Varnier-Fannière
Veuve Clicquot
64
65
66
67
68
68
69
Issue 11
June 2011
63
Champagne Tasting Notes Contents
Vintage
NV
NV
2003
NV
2006
2006
NV
2000
NV
NV
NV
2004
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
2006
NV
NV
NV
NV
2004
NV
NV
Wine
Bonnaire Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs - 2007 base
Bonnaire Rosé - 2007 base
Cedric Bouchard Inflorescence La Parcelle
Cedric Bouchard Inflorescence Val Vilaine - pure 2008
Cedric Bouchard Roses de Jeanne Haut Lamblée
Cedric Bouchard Roses De Jeanne La Bolorée
Cedric Bouchard Roses de Jeanne Les Ursules - pure 2008
A. Margaine Blanc de Blancs
A. Margaine Cuvée Traditionelle - 2007 base
A. Margaine Cuvée Traditionelle Demi-Sec - 2007 base
A. Margaine Rosé - 2007 base
A. Margaine Spécal Club
Jean Milan Cuvée de Réserve - 2005 base
Jean Milan Cuvée Tendresse - 2007 base
Jean Milan Millenaire - 2006 base
Jean Milan Rosé Glamour - pure 2007
Jean Milan Spéciale - 2007 base
Jean Milan Transperance
Moët et Chandon Impérial - mid 10 dgd
Varnier-Fannière Cuvée de Jean Fanniere Origine - 2005 base
Varnier-Fannière Cuvée St. Denis - 2005 base
Varnier-Fannière Grand Cru Brut - 2007 base
Varnier-Fannière Rosé - 2007 base
Veuve Clicquot Brut - 2005 base
Type
NV BdB
NV Rosé
Vintage BdN
NV BdN
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
NV BdN
Vintage BdB
NV Blend
NV Blend
NV Rosé
Vintage BdB
NV BdB
NV BdB
NV BdB
NV Rosé
NV BdB
Vintage BdB
NV Blend
NV BdB
NV BdB
NV BdB
Vintage BdB
NV Rosé
NV Blend
Pay More Attention to Bonnaire!
NV Bonnaire Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs - 2007 base
Rating
87-89
87-89
85-87
84-86
86-88
82-85
85-88
85-87
83-86
84-87
86-88
87-89
82-84
81-84
84-87
85-88
83-85
80-82
81-83
85-87
84-86
84-87
88-90
87-89
82-84
Potential
87-89
87-89
85-87
85-88
87-89
82-85
87-91
85-87
83-86
84-87
86-88
89-91
82-84
81-84
84-87
85-88
83-85
80-82
81-83
85-87
84-86
84-87
89-91
88-90
82-85
Page
64
64
65
65
65
65
66
66
66
66
67
67
67
67
67
68
68
68
68
68
69
69
69
69
69
Rating
Potential
87-89
87-89
This is a delightful example of bright, creamy, doughy Côte de Blancs Chardonnay. Easy to like and easy to drink, this
Blanc de Blancs is full of citrus sunshine, cream, zesty mineral, and a wonderful finish that encourages you to refill your
glass again and again. With an amazing balance of lighter citrus topped with fat cream, this is one of the best NV efforts
from Bonnaire in recent memory. An easy buy in my book and one that will become even more toasty and creamy with
time.
(100% Chardonnay; 2007 base vintage with reserve wines from 2006; Côte de Blancs; Stainless steel; Malolactic
fermentation; Disgorged late 2010; 9 g/L dosage; $50-60 US)
Bonnaire’s Rosé Is as Good as their Blancs
NV Bonnaire Rosé - 2007 base
Rating
Potential
87-89
87-89
Soft, creamy red berry and enticing raspberry lemonade aromas are simply brilliant. The palate exhibits these same
characteristics, plus some. First and foremost is the strong, almost tannic red berry profile that comes from the Bouzy
Rouge. Then, a lovely bitter red grapefruit note and a hint of melon flesh it out. This is just a great bottle of Champagne.
Bonnaire has always made very good Champagnes and seldom gets the press it deserves - make their wines your own little
secret pleasure.
(60% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir, 10% Pinot Noir Bouzy Rouge red wine addition; 2007 base vintage with reserve
wines from 2006; Stainless steel; Malolactic fermentation; Disgorged late 2010 ; 9 g/L dosage; $50-60 US)
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
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Rating
85-87
2003 Cedric Bouchard Inflorescence La Parcelle
Potential
85-87
An open, pleasantly aromatic nose of red berries and cherry lemonade is quite enticing. The palate is fruit-filled, but not
quite as composed as the nose, showing red citrus, a helping of baked bread and some bright berry, but marred by a touch
of flabby, almost hot, acid. That isn't to say this isn't a very good wine because it certainly is. It is also a wonderful
reflection of the 2003 vintage. I'm just left wanting a bit more structure and precision. For me, this is a wine to drink over
the next five years for maximum enjoyment.
(100% Pinot Noir; 0.737 ha Côte Béchalin vineyard in Celles-sur-Ource; Stainless steel; Malolactic fermentation;
Disgorged April 2010; $75-100 US)
NV Cedric Bouchard Inflorescence Val Vilaine - pure 2008
Rating
84-86
Potential
85-88
A spectacular buy, this is a perfect introduction to the superlative quality of Cedric Bouchard’s lineup. Full of sweet red
berries and gentle citrus, this floats ethereally across the nose and palate. A definite crowd pleaser that really pulls you in
at the end with a touch of deliciously bitter minerality. This finish gives the wine an edge and boosts it up from just
another fun, fruity, well made, easy-to-drink Champagne into something with real style and substance.
(100% Pinot Noir; Stainless steel; 1.5 ha Val Vilaine in Polisy; Malolactic fermentation; Disgorged April 2010; $50-70
US)
2006 Cedric Bouchard Roses de Jeanne Haut Lamblée
Rating
86-88
Potential
87-89
Sharp and zesty citrus minerality and floral aromas fill the space above the glass. Fresh, crunchy apples and bright,
mineral-filled citrus lead into a saline finish that goes on and on. This wine is extremely enjoyable and has upside to
improve, although I can't help but wonder if a tiny bit of dosage would help round it out. As is, it should smooth out with
a little time, although I think this will peak sooner rather than later.
(100% Chardonnay; 0.3 ha Haut Lamblée vineyard in Celles-sur-Ource; Stainless steel; Malolactic fermentation;
Disgorged July 2010; No dosage; $100-130 US)
Rating
82-85
2006 Cedric Bouchard Roses De Jeanne La Bolorée
Potential
82-85
Floral aromatics are touched by a hint of woodsy spice. In the mouth, this is slightly lean, but a vibrant burst of acidity
with waxy green apple and more floral notes gives this wine a unique energy. A nice peach and mineral edge comes in
towards the back of the palate and leads into slightly short, dry finish. Well made, this is definitely a wine that stands out
from the pack (blind I would call this Alsatian before Champagne). However, I still don't think this offers good value for
the price. Recommended for exploratory purposes, but you are better off leaving price out of the equation.
(100% Pinot Blanc; 0.217 ha La Boloree vineyard in Celles-sur-Ource; Stainless steel; Malolactic fermentation;
Disgorged April 2010; No dosage; $100-140 US)
Champagne Warrior
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65
A Spectacular Les Ursules That Will Age Wonderfully
NV Cedric Bouchard Roses de Jeanne Les Ursules - pure 2008
Rating
Potential
85-88
87-91
Incredibly aromatic with red berry, flower blossom, blackberry, orange, lime, lemon, and a touch of spice. I highly
recommend you serve this wine in a Zalto Champagne stem or a bigger glass, such as a Riedel Riesling, Riedel Burgundy,
or Zalto Burgundy to get the maximum effect. The palate is elegant with a smooth mouthfeel, red berry and mineral
flavor, and a wonderful red citrus-tinged acidic streak. However, this remains more closed down and tightly wound than
past vintages of the Les Ursules. In comparison, I see time as a requirement for this bottle to reach its peak. Certainly
enjoyable now, the best will start to show in three to five years and I would gamble on it continuing to age well after that.
(100% Pinot Noir; 0.9721 ha Les Ursules vineyard in Celles-sur-Ource; Stainless steel; Malolactic fermentation;
Disgorged July 2010; $70-105 US)
Rating
85-87
2000 A. Margaine Blanc de Blancs
Potential
85-87
This is a bit like a late-disgorgement of Margaine's Spécial Club. Like the Spécial Club, it is made from grapes grown in
Margaine's top vineyards, but the parcels selected and the treatment the wines see before bottling differ between the two
wines. The palate is pleasant, with honeyed citrus and some dark, doughy notes below. Overall, I find this a bit more
closed and darkly shaded than most of Margaine's offerings, but nevertheless extremely classy and tasty.
(100% Chardonnay; Villers-Marmery; 75% stainless steel, 25% used oak; Disgorged July 2010; $75-105 US)
Rating
83-86
NV A. Margaine Cuvée Traditionelle - 2007 base
Potential
83-86
Sharp citrus, apple blossom, mineral, light cream, and a kiss of honey all make for a very enjoyable if somewhat
unremarkable wine. I have no problem drinking this, but it doesn't have quite enough expression to make me want to hunt
a bottle down. Sometimes I find this wine to work a bit better as a Demi-Sec - the latest release is a good example.
(89% Chardonnay; 11% Pinot Noir; 57% 2007 base wine with reserve wines from 2006 - 24%, 2005 - 10%, 1999 - 8%,
1994 - 1%; Villers-Marmery; Stainless steel fermentation; Disgorged July 2010; 8 g/L dosage; $35-50 US)
NV A. Margaine Cuvée Traditionelle Demi-Sec - 2007 base
Rating
84-87
Potential
84-87
Even though this is the Cuvée Traditionelle plus a higher dosage, it seems like a wine that was made specifically to be a
Demi-Sec. Everything meshes perfectly in this package where powdered sugar, pears, zesty citrus, and sprightly acidity
burst forth. While this is definitely sweet, it is well balanced and holds its own. A benchmark in sweeter-styled
Champagnes.
(89% Chardonnay; 11% Pinot Noir; 57% 2007 base wine with reserve wines from 2006 - 24%, 2005 - 10%, 1999 - 8%,
1994 - 1%; Villers-Marmery; Stainless steel fermentation; Disgorged July 2010; 27 g/L dosage; $40-50 US)
Champagne Warrior
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66
Rating
86-88
NV A. Margaine Rosé - 2007 base
Potential
86-88
This is a great Rosé that does a wonderful job expressing the house style of Chardonnay-driven wines while at the same
time politely tipping its hat to strong, fragrant Pinot Noir. The Pinot Noir exhibits gently toasted dough and
complimentary spiced red citrus. An easy buy in my book.
(80% Chardonnay; 20% Pinot Noir; 2007 base vintage; Assemblage with Pinot Noir still wine from 2005 and 2007;
Stainless steel and oak fermentation; Disgorged July 2010; 11 g/L dosage; $45-55 US)
I’ve Said it before and I’ll Say it again – Buy Margaine’s Spécial Club
Rating
Potential
87-89
89-91
Year after year, this is a beautiful wine that simply makes me swoon. Gently spiced citrus, orange, peach, and hints of
dough and mineral are truly unforgettable. This is still quite young, but it is full of potential. In five to ten years this
should really be starting to hit its stride. Margaine's Special Club is always a bargain in the world of Champagne.
(100% Chardonnay; Les Allouettes Saint-Betzs and Champs d'Enfer vineyards in Villers-Marmery; 78% stainless steel,
22% 6 year old oak; Disgorged July 2010; 9 g/L dosage; $65-80 US)
Rating
82-84
NV Jean Milan Cuvée de Réserve - 2005 base
Potential
82-84
This wine represents a departure from most of the rest of the Milan range due to the oak regime it sees. Spicy pear and a
touch of candied cinnamon (almost like Red Hots® candy) bubble up on the nose and palate. A touch of saline-led orange
forms a nice backbone from which this wine will grow. All in all, an interesting wine, but one that doesn't bring itself
together completely enough to really excite me. For the current releases, I prefer Milan's steel-aged cuvées to this one.
(100% Chardonnay; 50% 2005 base vintage with 50% reserve wines from 2004; Oger; Fermented in used oak barrels
from Meursault; Disgorged July 2010; 6 g/L dosage; $60-70 US)
Rating
81-84
NV Jean Milan Cuvée Tendresse - 2007 base
Potential
81-84
This is the Spéciale with a higher dosage. While I just barely prefer the Spéciale over this, the Tendresse is still a top
quality, sweeter-style Champagne that shows fine balance between acid and sugar. Where it loses me is its overall lack of
singularity. The fruit doesn't really stand out and the wine just kind of blends in with the background. For the price point,
I expect a bit more.
(100% Chardonnay; 2007 base vintage with reserve wines from 2006; Oger; Stainless steel; Disgorged July 2010; 18 g/L
dosage; $50-60 US)
Rating
84-87
NV Jean Milan Millenaire - 2006 base
Potential
84-87
My favorite of the current Jean Milan non-Rosé, non-vintage range. Bright fruit led by fresh apple melds with gently
toasted dough a step above the Spéciale. While I have found this wine to vary in quality between releases, the current
release is quite good and recommended. Nice job, Milan.
(100% Chardonnay; 2006 base vintage with reserve wines from 2005; Oger; Stainless steel; Disgorged July 2010; 8 g/L
dosage; $50-60 US)
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
June 2011
67
Rating
85-88
NV Jean Milan Rosé Glamour - pure 2007
Potential
85-88
Bright cherries and strawberries highlight this juicy, fresh effort that is my favorite of the current Jean Milan non-vintage
range. Since they stopped using the Saignée method, Milan's Rosé has consistently been very good and especially
recommended for those who like elegant, red berry-driven Rosés.
(80% Chardonnay from Oger with 20% Pinot Noir red wine addition from Avenay Val d'Or; Pure 2007 vintage; Stainless
steel; Disgorged July 2010; 6 g/L; $60-70 US)
Rating
83-85
NV Jean Milan Spéciale - 2007 base
Potential
83-85
Very direct, with effusive citrus and touches of spice. Red peach joins in once the glass has a chance to open up. Tasty
and enjoyable, this sadly a bit one-dimensional. I'd prefer to see a bit more zest and vigor within this correctly made wine.
(100% Chardonnay; 50% 2007 base vintage with 50% reserve wines from 2006; Oger; Stainless steel; Disgorged July
2010; 6 g/L dosage; $45-55 US)
Rating
80-82
2006 Jean Milan Transperance
Potential
80-82
Jean Milan's entry into the world of non-dosage wines begins here. This wine has the typical juicy citrus character of most
their range, but also exudes a meaty, doughy, peachy character that detracts a bit from the fruit's purity. This is well made,
but doesn't quite work for me - it comes off a bit too raw and forced. I prefer the fruity brightness to play front-and-center
in Milan's wines and I think that the dosage helps make this possible.
(100% Chardonnay; Oger; Stainless steel; Disgorged July 2010; No dosage; $65-75 US)
Rating
81-83
NV Moët et Chandon Impérial - mid-2010 disgorged
Potential
81-83
I find this wine to be fruity and well balanced enough, though the increased sweetness of the US version is still too much
for me (European releases see a lower dosage). What I like best about the European version of this wine is its bright, floral
citrus character that is complemented by soft bread dough flavor. Juicy pear, fresh apple, pine scent, and lemon-lime
spritz all play major roles. While not a total standout, and maybe a bit too soft throughout, this is well made, easy to
enjoy, and a big step up from the White Star cuvée of just a few years ago. As the sweetness in this wine continues to
decrease with future release, this could get really interesting.
(15% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot Noir, 35% Pinot Meunier; Stainless steel; Malolactic fermentation; Disgorged mid-2010;
13 g/L dosage; $30-40 US)
NV Varnier-Fannière Cuvée de Jean Fanniere Origine - 2005 base
Rating
85-87
Potential
85-87
Toasted wheat, doughy citrus, and a hint of spicy minerals highlight this wine. A snappy mix of floral, citrus, and spice
notes all combine into a super fun mouthful of wine that is hard to put down once you have taken that first sip. The dosage
on this wine, while low, is well balanced and the palate never appears out of place or overly dry.
(100% Chardonnay; 50% 2005 base with 50% 2004 reserve wines; Avize - 40%, Cramant - 60%; Stainless steel;
Malolactic fermentation; Disgorged June 2010; 3 g/L dosage; $60-70 US)
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
June 2011
68
Rating
84-86
NV Varnier-Fannière Cuvée St. Denis - 2005 base
Potential
84-86
Full of bright citrus and mineral, this wine is quite primary, but displays a spicy cinnamon, doughy character that gives the
wine some oomph. The flavors don't seem to mesh well (which is something I have found in previous iterations of this
wine), and while I find it well made, it’s not really my cup of tea. I actually have a slight preference for the Grand Cru
Brut over this.
(100% Chardonnay; 65% 2005 base with 35% 2004 reserve wines; Single-vineyard Clos du Grande Pere in Avize - 71
year-old vines; Stainless steel; Malolactic fermentation; Disgorged June 2010; 8 g/L dosage; $55-65 US)
Rating
84-87
NV Varnier-Fannière Grand Cru Brut - 2007 base
Potential
84-87
Toasty, biscuity, and wonderfully expressive of Chardonnay, this wine allows yeasty, wild citrus and apples to run amok
while an acid-filled finish kissed by sweetness brings balance and order to the table. While this may be the entry-level
Varnier-Fannière wine, it tastes anything but basic. This is a great bottle of bubbly.
(100% Chardonnay; 70% 2007 base with 30% 2006 reserve wines; Avize, Cramant, Oger; Stainless steel; Malolactic
fermentation; Disgorged May 2010; 10 g/L dosage; $50-60 US)
A Star of the 2004 Vintage
Rating
Potential
88-90
89-91
My perennial favorite of the range has done it again: the 2004 edition is full of just about everything anyone could ever
want in a Champagne. Spice cake, rich pear, and a jaw-droppingly gorgeous body just about knock you silly from the first
sip. Of course, a beautiful, pure citrus core is also present, but this wine really excels at being more than just an aperitif.
Serve this with just about any main course and it will shine. Simply a star of the 2004 vintage.
(100% Chardonnay; Single vineyard Vaudon in Oger; Stainless steel; Malolactic fermentation; Disgorged February
2010; 7 g/L dosage; $80-95 US)
Tasty, tasty, tasty Rosé
NV Varnier-Fannière Rosé - 2007 base
Rating
Potential
87-89
88-90
Essentially the Grand Cru Brut except with red wine from Aÿ added in, this wine still takes it up a notch. Spicy red citrus,
faint grapefruit flavors, and cinnamon-laced dough draw you in, but underneath, a spunky, mineral-based acidity is really
running the show. Full of freshness, though not lightweight, this is one heck of a tasty Rosé.
(85% Chardonnay from Avize, Cramant, Oger with 15% Aÿ still wine added; 70% 2007 base with 30% 2006 reserve
wines; Stainless steel; Malolactic fermentation; Disgorged May 2010; 10 g/L dosage; $55-65 US)
Rating
82-84
NV Veuve Clicquot Brut - 2005 base
Potential
82-85
Bright citrus leads the way on the nose, trailed by hints of dough and spice. The palate starts off quite fruity, with biting
citrus and intense red apple. Then hints of chalky dough and a green, tart streak eventually morph into a zesty, citrus-filled
finish. This performs better a little warmer than refrigerator temperature - I found over-chilling makes the wine too tart and
jagged. Overall, this is still on the young side and three years of cellaring will do wonders to calm and smooth its sharp
edges.
(28-33% Chardonnay; 50-55% Pinot Noir; 15-20% Pinot Meunier; 2005 base vintage with 30-35% reserve wines dating
back to the late 1980s/early 1990s; Stainless steel; Malolactic fermentation; Disgorged early 2010; $33-42 US)
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
June 2011
69
Sparkling Wine Tasting Notes
Vintage
NV
2010
NV
NV
NV
NV
2010
Wine
Cono Sur Brut - 2010 base
Cupcake Vineyards Moscato d'Asti
Cupcake Vineyards Prosecco
Freixenet Elyssia Gran Cuvée Brut
Freixenet Pinot Noir Brut
L. Mawby Talismon - 2006 base
Vietti Moscato d'Asti Casinetta
Type
Spklng Blend
Spklng BdB
Spklng BdB
Spklng Blend
Spklng Rosé
Spklng Blend
Spklng BdB
Rating
74-76
74-76
78-80
81-83
80-82
79-81
85-87
Potential
74-76
74-76
78-80
81-83
80-82
81-83
85-87
Rating
74-76
NV Cono Sur Brut - 2010 base
Page
70
70
70
71
71
71
71
Potential
74-76
A peachy, waxy nose emits floral notes along with some faint paint thinner fumes. As the palate broadens, a pungent kick
of acidity merges into waxy apples, dry crackers, and slightly under-ripe citrus. This gives the wine a unique profile that is
more akin to a French sparkler made from non-traditional Champagne grapes than to a classically-styled bubbly. The
paint thinner flavor is stronger on the palate than the nose, detracting from an otherwise nicely wrapped package.
(95% Chardonnay, 1% Pinot Noir, 4% Riesling; 2010 base vintage; Bío-Bío Valley, Chile; 8 months in new French oak
225L barrels and then 4 months in steel tanks; No malolactic fermentation; Cuvée close; 10.1 g/L residual sugar; $15-20
US)
Rating
74-76
2010 Cupcake Vineyards Moscato d'Asti
Potential
74-76
Honeysuckle dominates the aroma while light, sweet fruits characterize the palate. Over time, the flavors develop into
almost syrupy peaches and apricots. This has a nice touch of acidity and is technically correct, but also utterly boring as a
Moscato d'Asti. I don’t find it expressive enough and it tastes almost watered down. For the same money, you could do
worse, but you could also do better. Spend just a few dollars more and you can do a lot better.
(100% Moscato Bianco; Moscato d'Asti DOCG, Italy; Stainless steel; 97.6 g/L residual sugar; Bottled late 2010; $8-15
US)
Rating
78-80
NV Cupcake Vineyards Prosecco
Potential
78-80
Fluffy lemons on the nose and a burst of citrus in the mouth make for a delightfully lively wine. There is a touch of gum
drop, minerality, and fluffy peach, but overall it is fairly citrus driven. Not mind-blowing and not that representative of
true Prosecco, a glass of this is still enjoyable and certainly tasty, especially when found for $10 or less.
(100% Glera; Prosecco DOC, Italy; Stainless steel; Cuvée close; 15 g/L residual sugar; Bottled fall 2010; $8-13 US)
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
June 2011
70
Rating
81-83
NV Freixenet Elyssia Gran Cuvée Brut
Potential
81-83
Elyssia is Freixenet's top of the line sparkling wine brand in the United States. The idea behind it is to make a traditional
Cava-esque wine using the classic grapes of Champagne (Chardonnay and Pinot Noir). All in all, I think they did a pretty
good job at accomplishing their goal especially when you bring price into the equation. An intensely floral nose kicks this
wine off - peach, pear, sweet orange, and floral aromatics manage to be quite captivating. The palate certainly acts like a
traditional Cava, as citrus and wet wheat notes appear, but there is also a tart apple and lime bonus that make this wine an
interesting candidate for aging 3-5 years. Easy to enjoy and very well made, I find this to showcase more structure, higher
acidity, and greater depth of aromatics and flavor than a traditional Cava.
30% Macabeo, 20% Parellada, and 40% Chardonnay from La Freixenada vineyard in Sainte Quini de Mediona Penedès,
10% Pinot Noir from the Mas Bernich vineyard in Masquefa, High Penedès; Spain; Stainless steel; Disgorged fall 2009; 9
g/L dosage; $16-21 US)
Rating
80-82
NV Freixenet Pinot Noir Brut
Potential
80-82
Ripe red cherry, raspberry, and subtle hints of spice on the nose set this apart from the other Freixenet Rosé wines I have
tasted. The palate is a completely different animal, within which a tart citrus streak careens madly through flavors of
wheat, strawberry, and meaty red cherry. Well made, expressive, and very interesting, to me, this is a wine that is
definitely worth exploring at a very reasonable price.
85% Pinot Noir from the Mas Bernich vineyard in Masquefa which has a sand and clay soil, High Penedès, 15% Trepat
from Serrral, Conca de Barbera, Tarragona; Spain; Stainless steel; Disgorged summer 2009; 9 g/L dosage; $16-21 US)
Rating
79-81
NV L. Mawby Talismon - 2006 base
Potential
81-83
The nose on this is reminiscent of an oak-aged Champagne made from non-traditional grapes; it acts a bit Moutard- or
Olivier Horiot-like with its spice, creamy vanilla, and sharp citrus. Highly acidic, this possesses strong notes of slippery
lime, cinnamon, and vanilla as well before a few hints of green come out near the end of the palate. Overall, a well made
wine that is expressive, but maybe a bit too green and oaky right now. With a couple more years of aging this should
settle down and balance out nicely.
(Blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Vignobles; 2006 base vintage; Leelanau Peninsula, Michigan, USA;
Fermented in oak and stainless steel; Reserve wines aged in an oak solera; Cuvée 139 - bottled February 2007, disgorged
August 2010; ~8 g/L dosage; $25-35 US)
Rating
85-87
2010 Vietti Moscato d'Asti Casinetta
Potential
85-87
Floral elements outwrestle the sugary ones during a friendly aromatic tussle. The palate then takes a flying leap into sweet
citrus, tumbling gently into honeyed pears, apricots, and jumpy, zesty, sweet syrup for the final performance. This
continues to be my benchmark for widely available, well-priced Moscato d'Asti – you just can’t beat its great balance of
sweetness, floral aromatics and gentle acidity. It isn't the absolute best Moscato d'Asti anywhere, but you will never go
wrong buying this (regardless of vintage) and it will deliver well above its price point. And, you have to love the low
alcohol level of Moscato d'Asti that makes it devilishly easy to polish off an entire bottle without even realizing it.
(100% Moscato Bianco; Castiglione Tinella, Piedmont, Italy; Stainless steel; No malolactic fermentation; Secondary
fermentation in the bottle; 135,000 bottles produced; $13-18 US)
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
June 2011
71
Issue Indexes and Performance Tables
The following pages contain a number of tables which organize/categorize and rank all of the wines reviewed in this issue.
They also contain a selection of different tables which index and organize all of the wines reviewed in this newsletter.
Indexes for the Tasting Notes in This Issue
-
-
Vintage Champagne
NV & MV Champagne
Blanc de Blancs Champagne
Blanc de Noirs Champagne
Rosé Champagne
p. 73
p. 75
p. 76
p. 77
p. 77
Alphabetical Index of all wines
Vintage Index of all wines
Score/Rating Index of all wines
p. 78
p. 81
p. 84
For the Indexes, the following legends are used to specify the Wine Type:
-
Vintage = Vintage Champagne
NV = Non-Vintage Champagne
MV = Multi-Vintage Champagne
Still = Still wine from Champagne (that is sold as a still wine)
Vin Clair = Champagne that has only gone through one fermentation thus far and is from the latest harvest or is the
latest blend ready to be bottled
Reserve = Champagne that has only gone through one fermentation and is being stored for use in future cuvées
Spklng/Sparkling = non-Champagne sparkling wine
Ratafia/Liqueur = Sweet fortified wine from Champagne region
BdB* = Blanc de Blancs
BdN* = Blanc de Noirs
Rosé* = Rosé
Red = Still Red Wine from Champagne

Please note that BdB, BdN, and Rosé can be combined with Vintage, NV, MV, or Sparkling to form a unique
identifier (for example, NV Rosé or Sparkling BdB)
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
June 2011
72
Issue 11
Vintage
1997
1997
1998
1998
1998
1997
1998
1997
1997
1997
1998
2003
2006
2006
1998
1997
1997
1997
1997
1998
1998
1998
1997
1998
1999
2002
2004
2005
1997
1998
1999
2003
1995
1998
1999
2000
2000
2002
2000
2002
2004
2005
1985
1990
1991
1992
1995
1996
1997
1998
1999
1996
1997
1999
2000
Vintage Champagnes
Wine
Bollinger R.D.
Gaston Chiquet Blanc de Blancs d’Aÿ – magnum
Dom Pérignon
Dom Pérignon Rosé
Nicolas Feuillatte Palmes d’Or
Nicolas Feuillatte Palmes d’Or Rosé
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
Type
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdN
Vintage BdN
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdB
Vintage Rosé
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdN
Vintage BdN
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage Rosé
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdN
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Rosé
Vintage Rosé
Vintage Rosé
Vintage Rosé
June 2011
Rating
85-87
88-90
90-92
87-89
89-91
88-90
91-93
87-89
87-89
90-92
90-92
85-87
86-88
82-85
87-89
87-89
85-87
87-89
88-90
89-91
90-92
90-92
89-91
84-87
82-85
84-86
84-86
83-85
81-83
84-86
79-81
85-87
81-83
79-82
78-80
83-85
83-85
84-87
84-86
84-87
83-86
83-86
80-83
77-82
80-83
82-85
88-90
83-86
82-85
87-89
84-86
86-88
83-86
84-87
84-86
Potential
85-87
90-92
91-93
88-90
91-93
88-90
91-93
87-89
87-89
90-92
90-92
85-87
87-89
82-85
88-90
87-89
86-88
87-89
88-90
89-91
90-92
90-92
89-91
84-87
82-85
84-87
85-87
83-85
84-86
85-87
78-80
83-85
83-85
85-87
85-88
84-87
84-87
83-86
80-83
82-85
88-90
83-86
87-89
84-86
86-88
83-86
85-88
84-86
Page
25
20
31
35
31
21
30
22
24
19
33
65
65
65
35
23
25
23
22
33
32
31
20
44
44
44
44
44
48
48
49
49
49
49
49
50
50
50
50
51
51
51
51
51
52
52
52
52
53
53
53
53
53
54
54
73
Issue 11
Vintage
2002
2003
1998
1997
1998
1998
1997
1997
1998
1998
1997
1997
2000
1997
1998
2004
2006
1998
1997
1997
1997
1998
1998
1979
1982
1985
1988
1990
1995
1996
1998
1998
1998
1997
1998
1997
1997
1998
1997
1997
2004
1998
1998
1998
1997
1997
1998
1998
1997
1997
1998
1997
1998
Vintage Champagnes Continued
Wine
Henriot Millésime
Jacquesson Rosé
Krug Clos du Mesnil
Krug
A. Margaine Spécial l Club
Mumm R. Lalou
Piper-Heidsieck Rare – magnum
Ployez-Jacquemart Liesse d’Harbonville
Vilmart Coeur de Cuvée – late dgd magnum
Vilmart Cuvée Création – late dgd magnum
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
Type
Vintage Rosé
Vintage Rosé
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdB
Vintage Rosé
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdB
Vintage Rosé
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage Rosé
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage Rosé
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage Rosé
Vintage Rosé
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Rosé
Vintage Rosé
June 2011
Rating
86-88
85-87
93-95
88-90
87-89
88-90
87-89
87-89
90-92
91-93
88-90
87-89
85-87
88-90
90-92
87-89
80-82
90-92
87-89
88-90
90-92
90-92
87-89
89-91
87-89
88-90
89-91
87-89
88-90
88-90
88-91
87-89
87-89
86-88
88-90
90-92
87-89
90-92
87-89
85-87
88-90
88-90
91-94
91-93
90-92
90-92
91-93
90-92
94-96
88-92
94-96
88-90
92-94
Potential
87-90
85-87
93-95
89-91
87-89
88-90
87-89
87-89
90-92
91-93
88-90
87-89
85-87
88-90
90-92
89-91
80-82
92-95
87-89
89-91
90-92
90-92
89-91
89-91
87-89
88-90
91-93
89-91
90-92
89-91
88-91
87-89
87-89
86-88
89-91
91-93
87-89
90-92
87-89
85-87
89-91
90-92
91-94
91-93
90-92
91-93
91-93
90-92
94-96
92-94
94-96
89-91
92-95
Page
54
54
29
21
36
34
24
24
31
30
22
23
66
21
33
67
68
29
23
21
20
32
34
11
11
11
12
12
12
12
13, 34
35
35
25
34
18
22
32
24
25
69
33
29
30
19
19
30
32
18
19
28
20
29
74
Issue 11
Vintage
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
Non and Multi Vintage Champagnes
Wine
Bonnaire Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs – 2007 base
Bonnaire Rosé – 2007 base
Cedric Bouchard Inflorescence Val Vilaine – pure 2008
Cedric Bouchard Roses de Jeanne Les Ursules – pure 2008
Nicolas Feuillatte Blanc de Blancs – early 01 dgd
Nicolas Feuillatte Blanc de Blancs – late 08 dgd
Nicolas Feuillatte Blanc de Blancs – mid 10 dgd
Nicolas Feuillatte Brut – 2003 base
Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Extrem’ – late 07 dgd
Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Extrem’ –late 09 dgd
Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Premier Cru – late 02 dgd
Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Réserve Particulière – early 09 dgd
Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Rosé – mid 07 dgd
Nicolas Feuillatte Grande Réserve – mid 10 dgd
A. Margaine Cuvée Traditionelle – 2007 base
A. Margaine Cuvée Traditionelle Demi-Sec – 2007 base
A. Margaine Rosé – 2007 base
Jean Milan Cuvée de Réserve – 2005 base
Jean Milan Cuvée Tendresse – 2007 base
Jean Milan Millenaire – 2006 base
Jean Milan Rosé Glamour – pure 2007
Jean Milan Spéciale – 2007 base
Moët et Chandon Impérial – mid 10 dgd
Varnier-Fannière Cuvée de Jean Fanniere Origine – 2005 base
Varnier-Fannière Cuvée St. Denis – 2005 base
Varnier-Fannière Grand Cru Brut – 2007 base
Varnier-Fannière Rosé – 2007 base
Veuve Clicquot Brut – 2005 base
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
Type
NV BdB
NV Rosé
NV BdN
NV BdN
NV BdB
NV BdB
NV BdB
NV Blend
NV Blend
NV Blend
NV Blend
NV Blend
NV Blend
NV Blend
NV Blend
NV Blend
NV Blend
NV Blend
NV Rosé
NV Rosé
NV Rosé
NV Rosé
NV Blend
NV Blend
NV Blend
NV Rosé
NV BdB
NV BdB
NV BdB
NV Rosé
NV BdB
NV Blend
NV BdB
NV BdB
NV BdB
NV Rosé
NV Blend
June 2011
Rating
87-89
87-89
84-86
85-88
76-78
80-83
81-84
71-74
71-74
73-75
74-77
75-78
81-84
83-85
66-68
67-69
73-76
74-77
81-83
82-84
82-84
81-83
81-84
83-86
84-87
86-88
82-84
81-84
84-87
85-88
83-85
81-83
85-87
84-86
84-87
87-89
82-84
Potential
87-89
87-89
85-88
87-91
80-83
81-84
73-75
74-77
83-85
73-76
74-77
81-83
82-84
82-84
82-84
81-84
83-86
84-87
86-88
82-84
81-84
84-87
85-88
83-85
81-83
85-87
84-86
84-87
88-90
82-85
Page
64
64
65
66
45
45
45
45
45
46
46
46
46
46
47
47
47
47
47
48
48
48
50
66
66
67
67
67
67
68
68
68
68
69
69
69
69
75
Issue 11
Vintage
1998
NV
2006
2006
1998
1997
1997
1997
1998
1997
NV
NV
NV
1998
1999
2002
2004
2005
2000
2002
1997
1998
1997
2000
1997
1998
2004
NV
NV
NV
NV
2006
1997
1979
1985
1998
1998
1997
1997
1998
NV
NV
NV
1997
2004
Blanc de Blancs Champagnes
Wine
Krug Clos du Mesnil
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
Type
Vintage BdB
NV BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
NV BdB
NV BdB
NV BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
NV BdB
NV BdB
NV BdB
NV BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
NV BdB
NV BdB
NV BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
June 2011
Rating
89-91
87-89
86-88
82-85
87-89
85-87
87-89
88-90
89-91
89-91
76-78
80-83
81-84
84-87
82-85
84-86
84-86
83-85
83-85
84-87
87-89
90-92
88-90
85-87
88-90
90-92
87-89
82-84
81-84
84-87
83-85
80-82
88-90
89-91
88-90
87-89
88-90
90-92
87-89
90-92
85-87
84-86
84-87
85-87
88-90
Potential
91-93
87-89
87-89
82-85
88-90
86-88
87-89
88-90
89-91
89-91
80-83
81-84
84-87
82-85
84-87
85-87
83-85
83-85
85-87
87-89
90-92
88-90
85-87
88-90
90-92
89-91
82-84
81-84
84-87
83-85
80-82
89-91
89-91
88-90
87-89
89-91
91-93
87-89
90-92
85-87
84-86
84-87
85-87
89-91
Page
31
64
65
65
35
25
23
22
33
20
45
45
45
44
44
44
44
44
50
50
24
31
22
66
21
33
67
67
67
67
68
68
21
11
11
35
34
18
22
32
68
69
69
25
69
76
Issue 11
Vintage
1997
1998
1998
2003
NV
NV
2000
Blanc de Noirs Champagnes
Wine
Issue 11
Vintage
1997
NV
1998
NV
NV
NV
NV
1996
1997
1999
2000
2002
2003
1997
1997
NV
NV
1997
1997
NV
1998
1998
1997
1998
Rating
88-90
90-92
90-92
85-87
84-86
85-88
84-86
Potential
90-92
91-93
90-92
85-87
85-88
87-91
85-88
Page
20
31
33
65
65
66
50
Rating
88-90
87-89
90-92
81-83
82-84
82-84
81-83
86-88
83-86
84-87
84-86
86-88
85-87
87-89
87-89
86-88
85-88
87-89
87-89
87-89
91-94
91-93
88-90
92-94
Potential
88-90
87-89
90-92
81-83
82-84
82-84
82-84
86-88
83-86
85-88
84-86
87-90
85-87
87-89
87-89
86-88
85-88
87-89
87-89
88-90
91-94
91-93
89-91
92-95
Page
21
64
31
47
48
48
48
53
53
54
54
54
54
24
23
67
68
23
24
69
29
30
20
29
Rosé Champagnes
Wine
Dom Pérignon Rosé
Jacquesson Rosé
Champagne Warrior
Type
Vintage BdN
Vintage BdN
Vintage BdN
Vintage BdN
NV BdN
NV BdN
Vintage BdN
Issue 11
Type
Vintage Rosé
NV Rosé
Vintage Rosé
NV Rosé
NV Rosé
NV Rosé
NV Rosé
Vintage Rosé
Vintage Rosé
Vintage Rosé
Vintage Rosé
Vintage Rosé
Vintage Rosé
Vintage Rosé
Vintage Rosé
NV Rosé
NV Rosé
Vintage Rosé
Vintage Rosé
NV Rosé
Vintage Rosé
Vintage Rosé
Vintage Rosé
Vintage Rosé
June 2011
77
Issue 11
Vintage
1997
1997
1998
1998
1998
1997
1998
1997
1997
1997
1998
NV
NV
2003
NV
2006
2006
NV
1998
1997
NV
2010
NV
1997
1997
1997
1998
1998
1998
1997
1998
1999
2002
2004
2005
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
1997
1998
Alphabetical Index
Wine
Bollinger R.D.
Cono Sur Brut – 2010 base
Cupcake Vineyards Moscato d’Asti
Dom Pérignon
Dom Pérignon Rosé
Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Reserve Particulière – early 09 dgd
Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Reserve Particulière – early 10 dgd
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
Type
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdN
Vintage BdN
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdB
Vintage Rosé
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdN
NV BdB
NV Rosé
Vintage BdN
NV BdN
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
NV BdN
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Spklng Blend
Spklng BdB
Spklng BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage Rosé
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
NV BdB
NV BdB
NV BdB
NV Blend
NV Blend
NV Blend
NV Blend
NV Blend
NV Blend
NV Blend
NV Blend
NV Blend
NV Blend
NV Blend
NV Rosé
NV Rosé
NV Rosé
NV Rosé
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
June 2011
Rating
85-87
88-90
90-92
87-89
89-91
88-90
91-93
87-89
87-89
90-92
90-92
87-89
87-89
85-87
84-86
86-88
82-85
85-88
87-89
87-89
74-76
74-76
78-80
85-87
87-89
88-90
89-91
90-92
90-92
89-91
84-87
82-85
84-86
84-86
83-85
76-78
80-83
81-84
71-74
71-74
73-75
74-77
75-78
81-84
83-85
66-68
67-69
73-76
74-77
81-83
82-84
82-84
81-83
81-83
84-86
Potential
85-87
90-92
91-93
88-90
91-93
88-90
91-93
87-89
87-89
90-92
90-92
87-89
87-89
85-87
85-88
87-89
82-85
87-91
88-90
87-89
74-76
74-76
78-80
86-88
87-89
88-90
89-91
90-92
90-92
89-91
84-87
82-85
84-87
85-87
83-85
80-83
81-84
73-75
74-77
83-85
73-76
74-77
81-83
82-84
82-84
82-84
84-86
Page
25
20
31
35
31
21
30
22
24
19
33
64
64
65
65
65
65
66
35
23
70
70
70
25
23
22
33
32
31
20
44
44
44
44
44
45
45
45
45
45
46
46
46
46
46
47
47
47
47
47
48
48
48
48
48
78
Issue 11
Vintage
1999
2003
1995
1998
1999
2000
2000
2002
2000
NV
2002
2004
2005
1985
1990
1991
1992
1995
1996
1997
1998
1999
1996
1997
1999
2000
2002
2003
NV
NV
1998
1997
1998
1998
1997
1997
1998
1998
1997
1997
2000
NV
NV
NV
1997
1998
2004
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
2006
NV
Alphabetical Index Continued
Wine
Nicolas Feuillatte Grande Reserve – mid 10 dgd
Henriot Millésime
Jacquesson Rosé
Krug Clos du Mesnil
Krug
A. Margaine SpécialClub
L. Mawby Talismon – 2006 base
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
Type
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdN
NV Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Rosé
Vintage Rosé
Vintage Rosé
Vintage Rosé
Vintage Rosé
Vintage Rosé
Spklng Blend
Spklng Rosé
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdB
Vintage Rosé
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdB
Vintage Rosé
Vintage BdB
NV Blend
NV Blend
NV Rosé
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Spklng Blend
NV BdB
NV BdB
NV BdB
NV Rosé
NV BdB
Vintage BdB
NV Blend
June 2011
Rating
79-81
85-87
81-83
79-82
78-80
83-85
83-85
84-87
84-86
81-84
84-87
83-86
83-86
80-83
77-82
80-83
82-85
88-90
83-86
82-85
87-89
84-86
86-88
83-86
84-87
84-86
86-88
85-87
81-83
80-82
93-95
88-90
87-89
88-90
87-89
87-89
90-92
91-93
88-90
87-89
85-87
83-86
84-87
86-88
88-90
90-92
87-89
79-81
82-84
81-84
84-87
85-88
83-85
80-82
81-83
Potential
85-87
78-80
83-85
83-85
85-87
85-88
81-84
84-87
84-87
83-86
80-83
82-85
88-90
83-86
87-89
84-86
86-88
83-86
85-88
84-86
87-90
85-87
81-83
80-82
93-95
89-91
87-89
88-90
87-89
87-89
90-92
91-93
88-90
87-89
85-87
83-86
84-87
86-88
88-90
90-92
89-91
81-83
82-84
81-84
84-87
85-88
83-85
80-82
81-83
Page
49
49
49
49
49
50
50
50
50
50
51
51
51
51
51
52
52
52
52
53
53
53
53
53
54
54
54
54
71
71
29
21
36
34
24
24
31
30
22
23
66
66
66
67
21
33
67
71
67
67
67
68
68
68
68
79
Issue 11
Vintage
1998
1997
1997
1997
1998
1998
1979
1982
1985
1988
1990
1995
1996
1998
1998
1998
1997
1998
1997
1997
1998
1997
NV
NV
NV
1997
2004
NV
NV
1998
1998
1998
2010
1997
1997
1998
1998
1997
1997
1998
1997
1998
Alphabetical Index Continued
Wine
Mumm R. Lalou
Vietti Moscato d’Asti Casinetta
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
Type
Rating
Potential
Page
Vintage Blend
Vintage Rosé
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage Rosé
NV BdB
NV BdB
NV BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
NV Rosé
NV Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Rosé
Vintage Rosé
Spklng BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Rosé
Vintage Rosé
90-92
87-89
88-90
90-92
90-92
87-89
89-91
87-89
88-90
89-91
87-89
88-90
88-90
88-91
87-89
87-89
86-88
88-90
90-92
87-89
90-92
87-89
85-87
84-86
84-87
85-87
88-90
87-89
82-84
88-90
91-94
91-93
85-87
90-92
90-92
91-93
90-92
94-96
88-92
94-96
88-90
92-94
92-95
87-89
89-91
90-92
90-92
89-91
89-91
87-89
88-90
91-93
89-91
90-92
89-91
88-91
87-89
87-89
86-88
89-91
91-93
87-89
90-92
87-89
85-87
84-86
84-87
85-87
89-91
88-90
82-85
90-92
91-94
91-93
85-87
90-92
91-93
91-93
90-92
94-96
92-94
94-96
89-91
92-95
29
23
21
20
32
34
11
11
11
12
12
12
12
June 2011
13, 34
35
35
25
34
18
22
32
24
68
69
69
25
69
69
69
33
29
30
71
19
19
30
32
18
19
28
20
29
80
Issue 11
Vintage
1979
1982
1985
1985
1988
1990
1990
1991
1992
1995
1995
1995
1996
1996
1996
1997
1997
1997
1997
1997
1997
1997
1997
1997
1997
1997
1997
1997
1997
1997
1997
1997
1997
1997
1997
1997
1997
1997
1997
1997
1997
1997
1997
1997
1997
1997
1997
1997
1998
1998
1998
1998
1998
1998
1998
Vintage Index
Wine
Bollinger R.D.
Jacquesson Rosé
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
Type
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Rosé
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdN
Vintage Rosé
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Rosé
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdB
Vintage Rosé
Vintage BdB
Vintage Rosé
Vintage BdB
Vintage Rosé
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage Rosé
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Rosé
Vintage BdN
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdN
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
June 2011
Rating
89-91
87-89
80-83
88-90
89-91
77-82
87-89
80-83
82-85
81-83
88-90
88-90
83-86
86-88
88-90
85-87
88-90
88-90
87-89
87-89
90-92
87-89
85-87
87-89
88-90
89-91
81-83
82-85
83-86
88-90
87-89
87-89
88-90
87-89
88-90
87-89
88-90
90-92
86-88
90-92
87-89
87-89
85-87
90-92
90-92
94-96
88-92
88-90
90-92
87-89
89-91
91-93
90-92
87-89
89-91
Potential
89-91
87-89
88-90
91-93
89-91
80-83
82-85
88-90
90-92
83-86
86-88
89-91
85-87
90-92
88-90
87-89
87-89
90-92
87-89
86-88
87-89
88-90
89-91
83-86
89-91
87-89
87-89
88-90
87-89
88-90
87-89
89-91
90-92
86-88
91-93
87-89
87-89
85-87
90-92
91-93
94-96
92-94
89-91
91-93
88-90
91-93
91-93
90-92
88-90
89-91
Page
11
11
51
11
12
51
12
52
52
49
52
12
52
53
12
25
20
21
22
24
19
23
25
23
22
20
48
53
53
21
24
24
22
23
21
23
21
20
25
18
22
24
25
19
19
18
19
20
31
35
31
30
33
35
33
81
Issue 11
Vintage
1998
1998
1998
1998
1998
1998
1998
1998
1998
1998
1998
1998
1998
1998
1998
1998
1998
1998
1998
1998
1998
1998
1998
1998
1998
1998
1998
1999
1999
1999
1999
1999
2000
2000
2000
2000
2000
2002
2002
2002
2002
2003
2003
2003
2004
2004
2004
2004
2005
2005
2006
2006
2006
Vintage Index Continued
Wine
Dom Pérignon
Dom Pérignon Rosé
Henriot Millésime
Krug Clos du Mesnil
Krug
Mumm R. Lalou
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
Type
Vintage Blend
Vintage Rosé
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage Rosé
Vintage Rosé
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Rosé
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Rosé
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdN
Vintage Rosé
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage Rosé
Vintage BdN
Vintage Blend
Vintage Rosé
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
June 2011
Rating
90-92
90-92
84-87
84-86
79-82
87-89
93-95
87-89
88-90
90-92
91-93
90-92
90-92
90-92
87-89
88-91
87-89
87-89
88-90
90-92
88-90
91-94
91-93
91-93
90-92
94-96
92-94
82-85
79-81
78-80
84-86
84-87
83-85
83-85
84-86
84-86
85-87
84-86
84-87
84-87
86-88
85-87
85-87
85-87
84-86
83-86
87-89
88-90
83-85
83-86
86-88
82-85
80-82
Potential
90-92
90-92
84-87
84-86
87-89
93-95
87-89
88-90
90-92
91-93
90-92
92-95
90-92
89-91
88-91
87-89
87-89
89-91
90-92
90-92
91-94
91-93
91-93
90-92
94-96
92-95
82-85
78-80
84-86
85-88
83-85
83-85
85-88
84-86
85-87
84-87
85-87
84-87
87-90
85-87
85-87
85-87
85-87
84-87
89-91
89-91
83-85
83-86
87-89
82-85
80-82
Page
32
31
44
48
49
53
29
36
34
31
30
33
29
32
34
13, 34
35
35
34
32
33
29
30
30
32
28
29
44
49
49
53
54
50
50
50
54
66
44
50
51
54
65
49
54
44
51
67
69
44
51
65
65
68
82
Issue 11
Vintage
2010
2010
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
Vintage Index Continued
Wine
Cupcake Vineyards Moscato d’Asti
Vietti Moscato d’Asti Casinetta
Cono Sur Brut – 2010 base
Nicolas Feuillatte Grande Réserve – mid 10 dgd
L. Mawby Talismon – 2006 base
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
Type
Spklng BdB
Spklng BdB
NV BdB
NV Rosé
NV BdN
NV BdN
Spklng Blend
Spklng BdB
NV BdB
NV BdB
NV BdB
NV Blend
NV Blend
NV Blend
NV Blend
NV Blend
NV Blend
NV Blend
NV Blend
NV Blend
NV Blend
NV Blend
NV Rosé
NV Rosé
NV Rosé
NV Rosé
NV Blend
Spklng Blend
Spklng Rosé
NV Blend
NV Blend
NV Rosé
Spklng Blend
NV BdB
NV BdB
NV BdB
NV Rosé
NV BdB
NV Blend
NV BdB
NV BdB
NV BdB
NV Rosé
NV Blend
June 2011
Rating
74-76
85-87
87-89
87-89
84-86
85-88
74-76
78-80
76-78
80-83
81-84
71-74
71-74
73-75
74-77
75-78
81-84
83-85
66-68
67-69
73-76
74-77
81-83
82-84
82-84
81-83
81-84
81-83
80-82
83-86
84-87
86-88
79-81
82-84
81-84
84-87
85-88
83-85
81-83
85-87
84-86
84-87
87-89
82-84
Potential
74-76
85-87
87-89
87-89
85-88
87-91
74-76
78-80
80-83
81-84
73-75
74-77
83-85
73-76
74-77
81-83
82-84
82-84
82-84
81-84
81-83
80-82
83-86
84-87
86-88
81-83
82-84
81-84
84-87
85-88
83-85
81-83
85-87
84-86
84-87
88-90
82-85
Page
70
71
64
64
65
66
70
70
45
45
45
45
45
46
46
46
46
46
47
47
47
47
47
48
48
48
50
71
71
66
66
67
71
67
67
67
68
68
68
68
69
69
69
69
83
Issue 11
Vintage
1997
1998
1998
1998
1998
1998
1998
1998
1998
1998
1998
1997
1997
1997
1998
1998
1998
1998
1998
1997
1998
1998
1997
1998
1998
1988
1998
1997
1979
1997
1998
1997
1995
1998
1997
1997
1996
1998
2004
1997
1997
1997
1995
1998
1997
1997
1985
2004
1998
1990
1998
1998
NV
1997
Score/Rating Index
Wine
Krug
Mumm R. Lalou
Dom Pérignon
Dom Pérignon Rosé
Krug Clos du Mesnil
Henriot Millésime
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
Type
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Rosé
Vintage Rosé
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Rosé
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdN
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdN
Vintage Blend
Vintage Rosé
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdN
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage Rosé
Vintage Rosé
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdB
NV Rosé
Vintage Blend
June 2011
Rating
94-96
94-96
93-95
92-94
91-94
91-93
91-93
91-93
91-93
90-92
90-92
90-92
90-92
90-92
90-92
90-92
90-92
90-92
90-92
90-92
90-92
90-92
90-92
90-92
89-91
89-91
89-91
89-91
89-91
88-92
88-91
88-90
88-90
88-90
88-90
88-90
88-90
88-90
88-90
88-90
88-90
88-90
88-90
88-90
88-90
88-90
88-90
87-89
87-89
87-89
87-89
87-89
87-89
87-89
Potential
94-96
94-96
93-95
92-95
91-94
91-93
91-93
91-93
91-93
92-95
91-93
91-93
91-93
90-92
90-92
90-92
90-92
90-92
90-92
90-92
90-92
90-92
90-92
90-92
91-93
91-93
89-91
89-91
89-91
92-94
88-91
90-92
90-92
90-92
89-91
89-91
89-91
89-91
89-91
89-91
88-90
88-90
88-90
88-90
88-90
88-90
88-90
89-91
89-91
89-91
88-90
88-90
88-90
87-89
Page
18
28
29
29
29
30
30
30
30
29
31
18
19
19
33
32
31
31
33
20
32
32
19
32
31
12
33
20
11
19
13, 34
20
12
33
21
21
12
34
69
20
21
22
52
34
22
21
11
67
34
12
35
35
69
22
84
Issue 11
Vintage
1997
NV
NV
1997
1997
1998
1998
1997
1997
1997
1997
1982
1998
1998
1997
1997
2002
2006
1996
NV
1997
NV
NV
1997
1997
2003
2003
2003
2000
1997
NV
2010
1999
2002
1998
2002
NV
NV
NV
NV
2000
2004
2002
1998
1999
2000
NV
2004
1996
1997
2005
NV
2000
2000
2005
Score/Rating Index Continued
Wine
Bollinger R.D.
Bonnaire Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs - 2007 base
Bonnaire Rosé - 2007 base
Gaston Chiquet SpécialClub
Jacquesson Rosé
A. Margaine Rosé - 2007 base
Cedric Bouchard Roses de Jeanne Les Ursules - pure 2008
Jean Milan Rosé Glamour - pure 2007
Varnier-Fannière Cuvée de Jean Fanniere Origine - 2005 base
Vietti Moscato d'Asti Casinetta
A. Margaine Cuvée Traditionelle Demi-Sec - 2007 base
Jean Milan Millenaire - 2006 base
Varnier-Fannière Grand Cru Brut - 2007 base
Cedric Bouchard Inflorescence Val Vilaine - pure 2008
Varnier-Fannière Cuvée St. Denis - 2005 base
A. Margaine Cuvée Traditionelle - 2007 base
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
Type
Rating
Potential
Page
Vintage Blend
NV BdB
NV Rosé
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdB
Vintage Rosé
Vintage Rosé
Vintage Rosé
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage Rosé
Vintage Rosé
Vintage BdB
Vintage Rosé
NV Rosé
Vintage Blend
NV BdN
NV Rosé
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdN
Vintage Blend
Vintage Rosé
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
NV BdB
Spklng BdB
Vintage Rosé
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
NV Blend
NV BdB
NV BdB
NV BdN
Vintage BdN
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Rosé
NV BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Rosé
Vintage Blend
NV Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdB
Vintage BdB
87-89
87-89
87-89
87-89
87-89
87-89
87-89
87-89
87-89
87-89
87-89
87-89
87-89
87-89
87-89
87-89
86-88
86-88
86-88
86-88
86-88
85-88
85-88
85-87
85-87
85-87
85-87
85-87
85-87
85-87
85-87
85-87
84-87
84-87
84-87
84-87
84-87
84-87
84-87
84-86
84-86
84-86
84-86
84-86
84-86
84-86
84-86
83-86
83-86
83-86
83-86
83-86
83-85
83-85
83-85
87-89
87-89
87-89
87-89
87-89
87-89
87-89
87-89
87-89
87-89
87-89
87-89
87-89
87-89
87-89
87-89
87-90
87-89
86-88
86-88
86-88
87-91
85-88
86-88
85-87
85-87
85-87
85-87
85-87
85-87
85-87
85-87
85-88
85-87
84-87
84-87
84-87
84-87
84-87
85-88
85-88
85-87
84-87
84-86
84-86
84-86
84-86
84-87
83-86
83-86
83-86
83-86
83-85
83-85
83-85
24
64
64
23
23
53
36
24
24
23
23
11
35
35
22
24
54
65
53
67
25
66
68
25
25
65
49
54
66
25
68
71
54
50
44
51
66
67
69
65
50
44
44
48
53
54
69
51
52
53
51
66
50
50
44
June 2011
85
Issue 11
Vintage
NV
NV
2006
1992
1999
1997
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
1995
1997
1991
NV
1985
NV
2006
1998
NV
1999
NV
1999
1990
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
2010
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
NV
Score/Rating Index Continued
Wine
Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Extrem' -late 09 dgd
Jean Milan Spéciale - 2007 base
Veuve Clicquot Brut - 2005 base
Jean Milan Cuvée de Réserve - 2005 base
Nicolas Feuillatte Blanc de Blancs - mid 10 dgd
Nicolas Feuillatte Grande Réserve - mid 10 dgd
Jean Milan Cuvée Tendresse - 2007 base
Moët et Chandon Impérial - mid 10 dgd
Nicolas Feuillatte Blanc de Blancs - late 08 dgd
L. Mawby Talismon - 2006 base
Nicolas Feuillatte Blanc de Blancs - early 01 dgd
Cono Sur Brut - 2010 base
Cupcake Vineyards Moscato d'Asti
Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
Type
Rating
Potential
Page
NV Blend
NV BdB
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
NV Blend
NV Rosé
NV Rosé
NV BdB
NV BdB
NV Blend
NV BdB
NV Blend
NV Rosé
NV Rosé
Spklng Blend
NV Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
NV BdB
Vintage Blend
Spklng Rosé
Vintage BdB
Vintage Blend
Spklng Blend
Vintage Blend
Spklng BdB
Vintage Blend
Vintage Blend
NV BdB
NV Blend
NV Blend
NV Blend
Spklng Blend
Spklng BdB
NV Blend
NV Blend
NV Blend
NV Blend
NV Blend
NV Blend
83-85
83-85
82-85
82-85
82-85
82-85
82-84
82-84
82-84
82-84
81-84
81-84
81-84
81-84
81-83
81-83
81-83
81-83
81-83
81-83
80-83
80-83
80-83
80-82
80-82
79-82
79-81
79-81
78-80
78-80
77-82
76-78
75-78
74-77
74-77
74-76
74-76
73-76
73-75
71-74
71-74
67-69
66-68
83-85
83-85
82-85
82-85
82-85
82-85
82-84
82-84
82-84
81-84
81-84
81-84
82-84
81-83
81-83
81-83
80-83
80-83
80-82
80-82
81-83
78-80
78-80
74-77
74-77
74-76
74-76
73-76
73-75
-
46
68
65
52
44
53
69
48
48
67
45
50
67
46
48
47
71
68
49
48
52
45
51
71
68
49
71
49
70
49
51
45
46
46
47
70
70
47
46
45
45
47
47
June 2011
86
A Taste of What’s Coming in Issue 12






Part 1 of A Look at the 2010 Vintage
Non-Vintage Champagnes and their Age-Worthiness
Dom Pérignon Rosé
A Conversation with Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon of Louis Roederer
Over 150 Tasting Notes on Champagne and Sparkling Wines
Plus More!
Subscribing to The Champagne Warrior
The Champagne Warrior is published six times a year. In addition to the six yearly issues, smaller special editions are
occasionally published and sent to subscribers only. A year-long subscription (all main issues and special editions) can
be purchased for a list price of $90 US annually. Back issues are available as a package deal and individual issues can be
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For more information, you can visit
www.champagnewarrior.com/subscribe.htm or email us at [email protected].
As mentioned above, the current year-long subscription price of $90 US is being offered to the general public.
CellarTracker! subscribers currently receive a special discounted rate of $60 US annually. Also, if anyone has
subscribed to The Champagne Warrior for $90 US (not including any donations) and is currently or becomes a
CellarTracker! user during their subscription term, I will refund them $30 US of their Champagne Warrior subscription
price.
Why the refund and discount for CellarTracker! users? CellarTracker! is The Champagne Warrior’s online content host
(article hosting, searchable database, and more), and my goal is to offer a complete Champagne Warrior experience
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
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For information on the integration of Champagne Warrior and CellarTracker! please visit:
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Would You Like to Have Your Wine Reviewed?
Would you like to have your Champagne or sparkling wine reviewed in Champagne Warrior? While The Champagne
Warrior makes its best efforts to try to review every bottle possible, you can help out, by putting a bottle in the Warrior’s
hands. Samples can be sent to: Brad Baker, 46097 Commerce Center Dr., Plymouth MI, 48170. If possible, please
include a detailed technical sheet including as much information on the wine as you can. This information can include
grape varieties, grape origins/vineyard locations, years in the blend, fermentation and aging methods, disgorgement date,
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Champagne Warrior
Issue 11
June 2011
87

2006 Bereche L`Instant - Cork Aged - Champagne Ployez

Transcription

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