tutorials - Creative Machine Embroidery

Transcription

presents...
tutorials
for embroidering
hems
2
3
tutorials
for embroidering
hems
Embroidering hemlines can be tricky, as it can be difficult to choose designs that work
well with the chosen hem type, embroider continuous designs along the entire hem
length, embroider along curves and more. Learn simple tips and techniques that help
simplify the process in these three informative tutorials.
Included in this e-book are three tutorials from the 2006 regular column “Better Hems.”
The Part 2 installment discusses how to embroider a banded sleeve hem, beaded jacket
hem and peasant skirt hem. Part 3 gives instructions for embroidering along a pants hem,
reversible hem and a robe hem. Part 4 gives tips for embroidering hemline corners and
convertible cuffs.
We hope you find these tutorials informative and apply the techniques into your
projects. Happy stitching!
Colleen Exline
Associate Editor, CME
TABLE OF CONTENTS
“Better Hems: Part 2”
Stephanie Corina Goddard
2
3
.............................. PAGE 3
Stephanie Corina Goddard .............................. PAGE 8
Stephanie Corina Goddard
............................. PAGE 13
better
hem s
part 2 of 6
By Stephanie Corina Goddard
In our series on embroidering hemlines,
we feature three more ideas to embellish
a basic hem for fashion focus.
Sheer Pleasure
Add a pretty sheer underlay to abstract embroidery.
This technique also works as a hem-lengthening method
for ready-to-wear. On ready-made pants, simply remove the
hem and inseam stitching, then follow the construction
method below.
Supplies
Pattern of your choice for cropped-length pants
Fabric yardage according to pattern envelope
1 ⁄ 4 yard of sheer accent fabric
Tear-away stabilizer
Embroidery, bobbin and sewing thread
Size 75/11 needle
Repositionable tape
Dressmaker tracing carbon
Shaped edge embroidery design of your choice
approximately 2" tall
Preparation
Ken Clubb Illustrations
Loes Hinse
Design
5003
3
Creative Machine Embroidery
Tissue-fit the pattern and make any adjustments necessary. Determine the finished length; trim the front and back
pattern pieces even with the desired finished hemline.
Print or stitch a template of the embroidery motif.
Use repositionable tape to temporarily hold the front and
back pattern pieces together for the lower 10" of the side
seam, lapping the seamlines to draw the border.
Allowing a margin of 3 ⁄ 4" between the lowest point of
the shaped edge and the pattern cut edge, trace (with the
embroidery template on top and the dressmaker tracing
carbon between the template and the fabric) the embroidery
motifs across the pattern pieces, including
the hoop alignment marks for each motif
(allows a margin of 3 ⁄ 4" for cutting ease).
Measure 3" above the cut edge and draw
a topstitching line (A).
Cut out the garment sections. Re-tape
the pattern pieces as before. With right
sides up, lap and pin the lower side seams
of both pant legs in the same manner. Pin
the pattern over each pant leg and use
dressmaker tracing carbon to mark the
topstitching line and the hoop alignment
marks on each leg.
Sew the pant side seams and press the
seam allowances open. Cut the sheer fabric 7" wide across the fabric width. Fold in
half, matching short edges, and press.
Serge or zigzag the raw edges together and
set aside.
Embroidery
Hand- or machine-baste the pant leg to
a layer of stabilizer. (You’ll need to release
the stitching in order to trim the contours
of the embroidery.) Hoop the fabric.
Embroider each motif and repeat until
the hem is completely filled. If the last
motif doesn’t fit entirely on the width of
the leg opening, skip through the stitches
falling outside the fabric or simply allow
them to stitch out only on the stabilizer.
Remove the remaining basting stitches
and stabilizer. Press the work from the
wrong side.
Construction
From the prepared sheer strip, trim two
lengths equal to the measurement of the
pant hems. Place the motif edge right side
B Overlap ends slightly at each side seam;
A Measure 3” above cut edge and draw
machine baste lower edge of stabilizer
to cut edge of one garment layer. Handbaste upper edge.
topstitching line.
up over the sheer strip with the lowest
point of the embroidery 3 ⁄ 4" above the
sheer fold (refer to Figure A). Pin through
all layers along the top stitching line.
Use embroidery thread in the needle
and choose a decorative machine stitch
that reflects the character of the embroidery. Stitch along the line.
Construct the rest of the garment
according to the pattern guidesheet,
matching the sheer folded edges when pinning and sewing the inseams. Trim the
inseam seam allowances to 1 ⁄ 4" at the
hem; clean-finish with a serger or zigzag
sewing machine stitches.
If desired, make a clip in one side of the
inseam seam allowance above the hem
area to press the rest of the seam
allowance open.
C Machine-baste hem onto stabilizer,
overlapping ends.
Stabilizer
Garment
Layer
3 1⁄2"
Zigzag
3"
2"
3⁄4"
Sheer Edge
Garment
Layer
Finished
Hem
4
Reversible hem
Sail east, sail west—embroider a reversible pullover
top by matching embroidery and bobbin thread
colors before you set sail.
Supplies
Pattern for loose-fitting pullover knit top
Two lengths of lightweight knit fabric
in yardage according to pattern
envelope
Lightweight cut-away and watersoluble mesh stabilizer (do not
substitute)
Embroidery and sewing thread
Size 75/11 needle
1 ⁄ 4"-wide clear elastic
Embroidery border design of your choice with
satin stitch edge approximately 2" tall
Preparation
Because the entire garment will be soaked after embroidery,
pre-wash and dry both fabrics separately before cutting.
In order to prevent the embroidery stitches on knits from
distorting, a layer of cut-away stabilizer must be incorporated
into the hemline.
Be sure to choose a pattern style and size that will fit over your
head and shoulders without stretching. Tissue-fit the pattern and
make any adjustments necessary. Check the neck opening seam
allowance and the sleeve and body hem depths; adjust them to 1 ⁄ 4"
if not already called for on the pattern.
Cut out both fabrics according to the pattern layout, omitting any
neckline facings.
Construction
Kwik Sew
3120
5
Sew the shoulder, sleeve and side seams of each fabric (as if you were
making two separate garments). To prevent the neckline and shoulder
seams from stretching out of shape, incorporate 1 ⁄ 4"-wide clear elastic
to the neckline seam allowance. Apply the elastic in a 1:1 ratio. Serge or
sew in the seamline during construction.
Cut two strips of lightweight cut-away
stabilizer, 1" taller than the embroidery
motif (accounts for hem depth, turn of
cloth and bit of space above and below
embroidery) and slightly longer than the
width of the garment when measured flat
at the lower front and back hem.
Overlapping the ends slightly at each
side seam, machine baste the lower edge
of the stabilizer to the cut edge of one
garment layer. Hand-baste the upper
edge (B on page 67).
Place the two garment layers right sides
together, neckline raw edges matching.
Pin. With the machine set for a very slight
zigzag stitch, sew a 1 ⁄ 4" neckline seam.
Turn right sides out and press.
Arrange the garment layers as if they’re
in the finished position with wrong sides
together, making sure the sleeves are not
twisted. At each wrist sleeve seam, tuck
each hem, right sides together, and place a
single straight pin through the folds.
Reach through the body with your hand
between the sleeve layers. Carefully grabbing the straight pin and draw the entire
sleeve out through the body lower edge.
Grasping the folds firmly so they don’t lose
alignment; remove the straight pin. Pin the
cut edges, right sides together. Sew a 1 ⁄ 4"
seam. Repeat for the remaining sleeve;
return both sleeves to the finished position. Press.
Turn the garment with right sides
together, matching the body hems. Pin,
leaving approximately 10" open for turning. Sew the pinned hemline with a 1 ⁄ 4"
seam, then turn the garment right side out
through the opening. Press under the
remaining hem seam allowances to close
the opening and pin. Slip-stitch the folded
edges together by hand.
Thread the needle with a color to match
one garment layer; wind a bobbin with a
thread color to match the other. With the
garment color matching the needle thread
right side up, edgestitch the neckline, sleeve
and body hems close to the finished edges.
Embroidery
Choose an embroidery motif with only
small areas of fill. Avoid designs having
large areas of dense fill stitching. Because
you’ll be embroidering in the round, try
different hoop sizes before combining
borders in software or on the machine
screen.
In embroidery mode, machine thread
tension generally causes the needle
threads to wrap slightly to the back.
For the best results when stitching a
reversible embroidery motif, it may be
necessary to tighten the needle tension
in order to balance the stitching.
Test-stitch a sample on two layers of
scrap knit with a layer of cut-away
stabilizer between; take note of the
tension setting that produces the
best results without causing thread
breakage. Measure the total
circumference of the garment
hem and add 2". Cut a length
of mesh water-soluble
stabilizer to fit
the measurement.
Machine-baste the
hem onto the stabilizer,
overlapping the ends (C on
page 67). Plan to embroider
on the “inside” layer of the
garment, pushing the rest of the
garment out of the way as needed.
Hoop the basted stabilizer so that the
first motif will begin stitching near a
side seam. Make sure the hem edge is
parallel to the vertical sides of the hoop.
Using the same thread in the needle and
bobbin, embroider the first motif. At each
color stop, trim all jump stitches front and
back before switching both needle and
bobbin threads for the next color.
After completing the first motif, remove
the work from the hoop but do not
remove the stabilizer. Re-hoop for each
adjoining motif and repeat the embroidery
process, making sure to change bobbin
threads each time the needle thread color
is changed. At the last motif, be prepared
to stop each color at the place where it
meets up with the first motif. After completing the embroidery, trim the stabilizer
close to the work and then soak away the
remainder.
Stretch & Sew
2074
Elegant trapunto
Add elegance to a satin robe with an easy
trapunto technique that shows best on
light-reflecting shiny fabrics.
Supplies
Robe pattern
Yardage according to pattern envelope,
plus 1 ⁄ 8" yard extra for hem depth
1
⁄ 4 yard low-loft polyester batting
Temporary spray adhesive
Open embroidery design approximately
1 1 ⁄ 2" tall
6
Preparation
Adjust the front and back pattern pieces,
increasing the hem depth to 2 1 ⁄ 2". Cut out
the fabrics according to the pattern
guidesheet and construct the garment up
to the point of turning the hem.
Measure the total length of the hem cut
edge and cut a 2"-wide strip of batting to
fit. (If necessary, piece batting strips by
butting the edges and joining loosely by
hand.) Fold the hem cut edge under 1 ⁄ 2"
and press a crease. Open the fold, then
pin the batting strip to the wrong side of
the hem depth, aligning one long edge
with the crease line. With the batting layer
right side up, machine baste close to the
batting edge (D). Re-press the 1 ⁄ 2" fold
over the batting. Turn and press a 2"-deep
hem with the batting sandwiched inside;
pin from the right side. With embroidery
thread in the needle, choose a decorative
machine stitch that reflects the character
of the embroidery. Stitch from the right
side, 1 3 ⁄ 4" from the hem fold (E).
function to position the embroidery
field under the needle.
Embroider each motif and repeat until
the hem is completely filled. If the last
motif doesn’t fall entirely on the fabric,
skip through the unnecessary stitches or
simply allow them to stitch out only on
the stabilizer. Embroider sleeve bands if
desired. Remove as much stabilizer as
possible from the back of the work, but
do not press. Attach the collar band and
finish the garment according to the pattern
guidesheet. Choose a continuous quilting design.
For hooping ease, use customizing software or on-screen editing capabilities to
combine enough repeat motifs to fit the
largest hoop available.
Because you’ll be embroidering very
close to the fabric edge, choose one of the
following placement methods:
Use the “fix” or “baste” function on
the machine. Hoop only the stabilizer
and then stitch out a placement outline.
Remove the hoop from the machine
and spray the surface with temporary
adhesive. Place the hoop on the
machine and finger-press the hem in
place over the outline. Re-sew the “fix”
stitches, then begin the embroidery
sequence (F).
Hoop the stabilizer and then draw a
placement line on it parallel to the hoop
frame, using a straightedge for accuracy.
Keeping the pins well outside the
embroidery field, carefully straight pin
the fabric to the hooped stabilizer, with
the hem edge along the placement line.
Hand baste the fabric to the stabilizer
along the hem fold. Place the hoop on
the machine and use the re-centering
D Machine baste close to batting edge.
E Stitch from right side, 1 3⁄4" from hem
F Sew “fix” stitches to hold hem in place.
Embroidery
fold.
1 3⁄4"
2"
1⁄2"
7
Stephanie’s Corina Goddard is a frequent contributor
to Sew News. She writes and sews in Easton, Md. to the
sounds of classical music and dog snores.
Shaped edge: Husqvarna Viking, Endless Romance,
design 13
Boats: Grand Slam Designs, Sailboat Border (Large)
#BRDR40
Outline design: Embroidery By Design, Quilting Blocks
2, design 049-03a,
better
hem s
part 3 of 6
We continue our series on embroidering
decorative hemlines with three more ideas.
Vent about it
The Sewing
Workshop
Mimosa Top
& Pant
Tuck corner motifs into the vents at the hemline of a
blouse. It doesn’t matter whether the front and back
hemlines hang at the same level or at two different levels;
the result is just as interesting.
Supplies
Blouse with side seam vents
Fabric and notions according to pattern envelope
Pattern tracing supplies including dressmaker’s tracing
carbon
Corner embroidery design of your choice
Preparation
Tissue-fit the blouse pattern and determine the finished
hemline level(s). Making a few adjustments ahead of time
to the hem and vent allowances ensures that you can
machine stitch them in place without interfering with the
embroidery. Trim and/or increase the hem and vent depths
to 1" for a finished double-folded hem of 1 ⁄ 2" (A).
Use the pattern tracing supplies to trace duplicates of the
front and back pattern pieces onto semi-sheer tracing
paper. On the pattern duplicates, draw the foldlines for the
hems and for the vent openings. Print or stitch a template
of the corner motif and slip it under the vent corners of
each pattern piece. Rotating or mirror imaging the motif as
needed, position it 5 ⁄ 8" from the hem and vent fold lines.
Trace the outline of the motif and the hoop registration
8
W hen a garm entw ith side ventsisvery
loose-fitting the hem edgesare prone to
fluttering,exposing the w rong side ofthe fabric.
Considerw inding color-m atched bobbinsfor
each em broidery thread colorin the design
so the inside looksasneatasthe outside.
marks onto the pattern (Refer to Figure
A). Using the adjusted pattern pieces, cut
out the garment sections according to the
pattern guidesheet.
Embroider each motif; remove as much
stabilizer as possible and press the work
from the wrong side.
embroidery. Or, turn the facing down and
fasten the tab on the outside of the pant
for a self-fabric tone-on-tone detail.
Construction
Supplies
Embroidery
Working over a single layer of fabric at a
time, re-pin the pattern over the vent area
of each garment section. Note: For a wrapfront blouse, don’t put a motif at the left
front unless it clears the closure. Slip
dressmaker’s tracing carbon between the
layers and record the hoop registration
marks on the fabric.
To embroider each vent corner, hoop a
layer of tear-away stabilizer and treat the
surface with temporary spray adhesive.
Using the machine’s on-screen functions,
rotate or mirror image the design as
needed to fit each corner. Finger-press
the fabric onto the adhesive and hand or
machine baste the layers together.
A Trim and/or increase hem and vent
depths to 1" for finished double-folded
hem of 1⁄2".
Construct the garment according to the
pattern guidesheet.
When instructed to sew each hem and
vent edge, first press under 1", then open
the fold and bring the raw edge to the
crease line. Re-fold and press, yielding a
finished double-folded hem or vent edge
of 1 ⁄ 2". Topstitch the hem and vent edges
in place when instructed to do so on the
pattern guidesheet.
Convertible Cuff
Sometimes you feel like a
cuff…sometimes you don’t. Make a cuffed
pair of pants to wear as the mood strikes.
To match with a contrasting color top, button up the hem facing to expose the
1 3⁄4"
B Fold rectangles
to scrap of tearaway stabilizer
and sew single
vertical buttonhole, 3⁄4" long,
within point.
1⁄2"
1⁄2"
1"
5⁄8"
1⁄2"
1"
1"
1⁄2"
1"
9
5⁄8"
Original cutting lines.
4 1⁄2"
3 1⁄2"
Straight-leg pant pattern
Fabric and notions according to pattern
envelope
1 ⁄ 8 yard of contrasting fabric for hem
facings
Pattern tracing supplies including dressmaker tracing carbon
Two 5 ⁄ 8"-diameter flat sew-through
buttons, closely matched to main fabric
color
Two 5 ⁄ 8"-diameter flat sew-through
contrast buttons
Continuous border embroidery design,
approximately 1 1 ⁄ 2" tall
C Pin each tab
1⁄4"
in half, right
sides together.
Mark stitching
lines as shown.
1⁄4"
Stitch acrossthe top pointw ith a single sm allstitch.Turn and press.O ptional:Edgestitch the tab edges.
Preparation
Tissue-fit the pattern and determine the
desired finished hemline with the cuff
turned down to full length. Draw the hemline on the front and back pattern pieces,
adding 1 ⁄ 2" for seam allowances. It’s
important that the lower 6" or so of the
pant leg be stovepipe straight. Make any
adjustments necessary to the vertical seams.
Cut out the pants according to the
pattern guidesheet and sew the side
seams (including side zipper insertion,
if applicable). From scrap fabric cut two
rectangles 3 1 ⁄ 2" wide x 4 1 ⁄ 2" long. Fold
each in half, right sides together. Mark the
stitching lines as shown (B on page 67).
Stitch, then trim the seam allowances to
1 ⁄ 4" and clip the corners on the diagonal.
Pin each tab to a scrap of tear-away stabilizer (to give you something to hold
onto) and sew a single vertical buttonhole,
3 ⁄ 4" long, within the point (C on page 67).
Attach a tab to each pant leg at the side
seam. Mark a placement line 6" above the
hem cut edge. With the tab and pant leg
both right side up and the tab finished end
pointing toward the hem, place the raw
edge of the tab on the placement line,
straddling the vertical seam. Stitch 1 ⁄ 8"
from the raw edge. Flip the tab point
toward the waistline of the pant leg and
stitch 1 ⁄ 4" from the fold, hiding the raw
edge. Flip the tab back into finished position and press.
Embroidery
Measure the length of one pant hem cut
edge. From contrasting fabric, cut one 4"
wide rectangle twice the hemline measurement plus 1" (allows for embroidery).
Using the pattern tracing supplies, place
a layer of tracing paper over the fabric
rectangle and trace the outline. Measuring
1 1 ⁄ 4" from one long edge, draw a parallel
horizontal center placement line (D).
Print or stitch a template of the continuous border motif. Slip the paper tracing
over the template with the horizontal
placement line aligned over the horizontal
center of the motif. (If the motif is directional, orient the motif with the “up”
direction toward the nearest long side.)
Record the outlines and hoop registration
marks for the number of embroidery
motifs, abutted end to end, needed to
cover the length. Pin the paper tracing
over the fabric strip, slip dressmaker tracing carbon between the layers and record
the hoop registration marks for each
motif.
Cut a length of tear-away stabilizer at
least one hoop length longer than the
fabric strip. Spray the surface with temporary adhesive. Center the fabric strip over
the stabilizer length; finger-press in place.
Hoop one end of the stabilizer for the
first motif. Embroider, then re-hoop the
stabilizer, moving the adjoining motif into
E Position each motif at least 1⁄4" from lower reference
D Measuring 1 1⁄ 4" from one long edge, draw parallel
line; and at least 2" from side seam cut edge.
horizontal center placement line.
1⁄2"
1 1⁄4"
2"
4"
2"
Original hem.
1⁄2"
2 x Width of Pant Hem + 1"
5⁄8"
1"
1⁄4"
7⁄8"
7⁄8"
1⁄4"
7⁄8"
New cutting line.
10
ing directions for the hem.
Divide the embroidered
strip in half, trimming to
fit the measurement of the
pant hems. Join each strip
into a circle by stitching the
short ends, right sides
together, using the same
seam allowance as the pant
pattern. Press the seam
allowances open.
With right sides together,
pin the embroidered facing
edge to the garment hem.
Align the facing, join the seam
with the pant leg inseam.
Note: If the embroidery motif is
directional, it will appear to
be upside down. It will face
correctly when the cuffs are
turned up.
Stitch with a 1 ⁄ 2" seam
allowance. To turn the sharpest
edge, first press the seam
allowance open, then press the
McCall’s
facing toward the wrong side
4762
of the garment. Turn each pant
leg inside out. Turn under and
pin the remaining long edge until the facing measures an even 3" wide from the
position. Continue embroidering down the
lower edge. Set up the machine with neelength of the strip. If the last motif doesn’t
dle and bobbin thread to match the garfit completely on the fabric, either use the
ment fabric color. Turn each pant leg right
on-screen advance function to scroll
side out and work just inside the opening
through the stitches that fall off the fabric;
to edgestitch the facing in place.
or simply allow them to stitch onto the
stabilizer. Remove as much stabilizer as
Mark two button positions under each
possible and press from the fabric wrong
buttonhole—one with the cuff turned up,
side.
the other with the cuff turned down. Stitch
a flat button in each position, taking care
Construction
to skim through only the facing layer when
Construct the pants according to the
sewing the button to the cuff.
pattern guidesheet, substituting the follow11 Creative Machine Embroidery
Contour
companion
Add pizzazz to a two-piece outfit with a
contoured hem that follows the silhouette
of an embroidery motif. Choose one or
more embroidery designs with a rounded
lower edge that’s suggestive of a scallop
shape.
Supplies
Self-lined top
Fabric and notions according to pattern
envelope
Pattern tracing supplies
Embroidery designs of your choice with
rounded lower edge
Preparation
desired finished hemline. To maintain
proper proportions, plan the contour
detail to project not more than 1" below
the rest of the hem. Omitting the hem cut
edge, use the pattern tracing supplies to
trace a duplicate of the front pattern piece
onto semi-sheer tracing paper. Draw the
hem stitching line on the paper and then
add a parallel reference line 1" below it.
Plan to position the embroidery designs
toward the right or left side (not at center) of the front garment edge.
Print or stitch a template of the motif
and slip it under the duplicate pattern
piece, rotating or mirror imaging the motif
as needed. Position each motif at least 1 ⁄ 4"
from the lower reference line; and at least
2" from the side seam cut edge (E). If
available, use software and a larger hoop
To avoid aw kw ard orw eak notchesbetw een scallops,keep the arcsshallow .
to group motifs. Record the outline of
each motif as well as the hoop registration
marks. On the pattern, draw a contoured
stitching line to echo the rounded shapes
of the embroidery motifs, allowing 7 ⁄ 8"
space from the edges of each motif. This
allows for 1 ⁄ 4" breathing space and a 5 ⁄ 8"
seam allowance. An easy way to remember
is imagine each scallop as a portion of a
clock face and keep the pivot points below
the 3 and 9 o’clock positions (F).
carbon between the layers and record the
hoop registration marks for each motif
on the fabric.
For each motif, hoop the fabric together
with tear-away stabilizer. If the fabric edge
doesn’t reach the hoop frame all around,
use temporary spray adhesive to help hold
it in place. Embroider each motif, remove
as much stabilizer as possible, and press
Construction
Embroidery
Cut out the garment according to the
pattern guidesheet, adding at least 1"
to the hem edges of the garment front and
front lining. (If you have sufficient fabric,
allow even more space beyond the garment hem for hooping ease.) Place the
pattern duplicate over the front garment
section, fabric right side up. Align the
pattern and fabric cut edges at the top
and sides; pin. Slip dressmaker tracing
Place the embroidered front fabric right
side up over the front lining fabric (wrong
sides together). Pin the duplicate front
pattern over them, upper edge and side
edges aligned. Trim the hems on the
contoured cutting line indicated on the
pattern. Construct the garment according to
the pattern guidesheet. When sewing the
hem, stitch slowly and smoothly through
the contours, pivoting across each corner
with a single short stitch.
To turn the smoothest scallops, use
pinking shears to trim the seam allowance
of each scallop to a scant 1 ⁄ 4". With small
sharp scissors, clip the seam allowance of
each pivot point very close to the stitching
line (G). After turning the hem (but
before pressing), run a bluntly pointed
object such as a chopstick over the seamline to smooth away any bumps or puckers. Complete the rest of the garment
according to the pattern guidesheet. Stephanie Corina Goddard is a frequent contributor to
Sew News. She writes and sews in Easton, Md. to the
Corner design: Stitchitize, Square Corner, design
cs068
Border design: Stitchitize, Art Deco Borders, design
bo058
Glasses design: Smart Needle, Girls Button Collection,
design Glasses
F Keep pivot points below 3 and 9 o’clock positions.
No
Yes
G Clip seam allowance of each pivot point very close
to stitching line.
12
better
hem s
part 4 of 6
Our continuing series on
embroidering hemlines offers
ideas for embellishment. Here
we feature three more
fashionable ideas.
Button detail
Stretch & Sew
441
To button or not, a feminine heirloom vent softens the hemline of a flared skirt. Use your machine’s built-in decorative
stitches to finish the rest of the hem, or explore the stitch
editing functions of embroidery software. Note: We feature
the treatment on a fluttery skirt hem, but you could just as
easily show it on a cuff.
Supplies
Flared skirt pattern, such as Stretch & Sew 441
Sueded knit fabric in “with nap” yardage according to pattern
envelope, plus 1 ⁄ 4 yard for layout changes
Mesh cut-away and tear-away stabilizer
Size 75/11 stretch needle
Removable marker
Scalloped-edge cutwork corner embroidery motif of your
choice
Optional: Seam sealant; two to three buttons
13
Pattern preparation
Before making pattern alterations, first select a
scalloped-edge cutwork corner embroidery motif. Measure
the height. Choose a flared skirt pattern with a seamless front.
Tissue-fit the pattern and determine the desired finished
length. Add 1 ⁄ 2", then draw a new hem cutting line on each
main pattern piece. Trim each pattern piece on the line and
then measure up 1 ⁄ 2" plus the height of the embroidery
motif. Draw a hem panel seamline parallel to the hemline
matching the curve of the lower edge (A).
On each lower section, record the grainline and then cut it free of the main pattern piece.
Tape pattern tracing paper to the cut
edges of the main pattern pieces and
lower sections and add 5 ⁄ 8" seam
allowances.
Trace a duplicate lower front pattern
with right and left sides, and divide the
length into thirds. At the division nearest
the left knee, trim the pattern vertically.
The right (longer portion) lower front
includes the overlap; add 1 ⁄ 2" to the short
end for cutwork handling ease. For the
underlap, extend the left (shorter portion)
lower front 2" (B). (This includes a 1 ⁄ 2"
handling allowance and a finished 1 1 ⁄ 2"
underlap.)
A Draw a hem panel seamline parallel to
hemline.
Use a “with nap” layout to cut out the
pattern pieces and carefully mark the
design areas of both lower front sections.
Print or stitch a template of the
embroidery motif. Rotating and/or mirror
imaging as needed, use the template to
mark the fabric for positioning, remembering to allow 1 ⁄ 2" handling ease at the
lower and side edges (C). Hoop a layer
of tear-away stabilizer and spray it with
temporary adhesive. Finger-press the
fabric in place on the adhesive. Note:
Normally cut-away stabilizer would be
recommended for use with knits. Because
of the skirt style, tear-away is recommended so when the hemline flutters,
the cut-away will not show.
Embroider the motif, following the digitizer’s instructions for trimming the fabric.
To preserve the fabric needed for the rest
of the hem scallops, end the cut line at
right angles to the stitches (D). To avoid
distorting the fabric, allow the adhesive to
dissipate before tearing away as much stabilizer as possible and pressing the work
Finish the remaining hem circumference
with sewing machine stitches. On scrap
fabric, test-stitch the built-in stitches on
your machine to determine the stitch
selection and settings that produce a satin
stitch scallop that closely matches the
digitized version.
Begin with the right lower front. With
removable marker, draw a reference line
1 ⁄ 2" from the remaining cut edge of the
B Use template to mark fabric for
C Add handling ease to lower and side
Embroidery
positioning, remembering to allow 1/2”
handling ease at lower and side edges.
edges.
1⁄2"
D To preserve fabric needed for rest of
hem scallops, end cut line at right
angles to stitches.
Hem Panel Seamline
Add 5⁄8".
Finished Hemline
1⁄2"
1⁄2"
2"
New Line
14
Use custom izing softw are to com bine asm any m otifsaspossible to fitthe largesthoop.
lower right front. To stabilize the fabric,
place scraps of tear-away stabilizer
beneath the fabric as you sew. Set up
the scallop stitch with the points toward
the right and the rounded portion
toward the left. Begin where the hooped
embroidery left off. Satin stitch, guiding
the scallops along the reference line.
Remove as much stabilizer as possible.
Next, mark and stitch the lower back
(if there’s a center back seam, join it
first). Finally, mirror image the scallop
setting and embroider the lower left front,
picking up where the hooped embroidery
left off.
With small sharp scissors trim the fabric
as close as possible to the satin stitching.
Alternative: If available, use stitch
editing to remove all but the scallop
and embroider the remaining hem
circumference in the hoop.
Make two to three buttonholes in the
right lower front, nestling the buttonholes
into the scallops.
Construction
With right sides together, pin the left
lower front to the garment edge, remembering to match the side seams at the
level of the 5 ⁄ 8" panel seamline (not at
the lower cut edges). Pin the right lower
front over all and stitch with a 5 ⁄ 8" seam
allowance.
If the skirt has a center back seam,
join it (including zipper installation,
if applicable). Pin and stitch the lower
back panel to the garment back.
15
Finish the skirt following the pattern
guidesheet. When joining the side seams,
offset the seam allowances as needed to
match the scallops. Stitch the buttons to
the lower left front. If a single layer of
fabric is too soft to support the buttons,
place small patches of self fabric behind
for reinforcement.
No-stretch knit hem
Your little one won’t pop the hem stitching
on her comfy knit nightgown when soft
cut-away stabilizer supports both the
embroidery and the picot-stitched hem.
Supplies
Knit nightgown pattern, such as Kwik
Sew 2446/2447
Fabric yardage and notions according to
pattern envelope
Soft, lightweight cut-away stabilizer
Size 75/11 stretch needle
Removable marker
Continuous border machine embroidery
motif of your choice
Optional: Continual hoop
E Press 3⁄8" hem over cut edge of stabilizer.
Pattern preparation &
embroidery
desired finished hem length, adding 3 ⁄ 8"
for the picot hem. Cut out and construct
the garment, leaving one side seam
partially unstitched for hooping ease.
Directions are provided for standard
hooping. To substitute a specialty hoop
for continuous embroidery, refer to the
manufacturer’s directions for use.
Cut a strip of lightweight cut-away
stabilizer slightly longer than the circumference of the nightgown hem and wide
enough for the hoop frame to grip.
Print or stitch a template of the
embroidery motif, centered in the hoop,
and trace at least two copies of the
outline, including the cross marks, onto
semi-sheer tracing paper.
To mark the fabric:
Beginning at the garment front and
allowing at least 1" of breathing space
from the hem cut edge, pin the templates,
spacing them as desired. Mark the fabric.
the last one doesn’t fit completely on the
fabric, skip through the stitches that fall
off the fabric or simply allow them to
stitch out on the stabilizer.
Press the work from the wrong side.
Trim the upper edge of the cut-away
stabilizer close to the work, leaving
bridges between the elements. Remove
the basting from the lower edge and
trim the stabilizer 3 ⁄ 8" shorter than
the fabric.
Add a border across the front yoke,
if desired.
Picot hem
Finish sewing the remaining
portion of the side seam.
Press a 3 ⁄ 8" hem at the cut edge of
the stabilizer (E) Select the picot
(sometimes identified as a shell rolled
hem) stitch, up to 6mm wide. Choose
a thread color from the embroidery
motif and thread it in both the needle
and bobbin.
With the garment right side up,
stitch along the hem edge with the
right needle swing just beyond the
hem fold and making sure the 3 ⁄ 8"
hem depth remains rolled toward
the underside of the work. Adjust
the stitch length and width to
accommodate the hem stitches
accordingly.
Bobbinwork border
Edge a poncho with embroidery and
matching fringe for a pretty presentation.
To embroider with threads too large for
the needle, choose a motif specially
digitized for bobbin work or experiment
with a simple outline design that reads
well in a single color.
Supplies
Straight-sided poncho pattern, such as
Butterick 4621
Microfleece in yardage according to pattern
envelope plus 1 ⁄ 4 yard for testing
Lightweight tear-away stabilizer
Size 75/11 embroidery needle
Decorative thread for bobbin
Standard embroidery thread to blend with
decorative thread (or same color) or
monofilament thread
Sportweight novelty yarn to blend with decorative thread
Awl or small punch
Tapestry needle
Outline embroidery design of your choice,
such as one digitized for bobbin work
Separate bobbin case for use with heavier
weight threads
F Use customizing software or machine controls to move design
as close as possible to lower right corner of frame.
Kwik Sew
2446/2447
Machine baste the stabilizer to the fabric. This method provides a continuous
strip of stabilizer to support the picot hem
finish and embroidery.
Beginning on the garment front, hoop
and embroider the motif, but do not cut
the stabilizer.
Re-hoop for each subsequent motif,
keeping the length of stabilizer intact. If
16
Pattern preparation
If the pattern does not already have a 1"
hem allowance add one or adjust the pattern as needed.
Cut out and construct the garment
according to the pattern guidesheet,
Butterick
4621
except for
the hem. To
allow a sufficient
margin for hooping so
you can embroider close
to the hem edge, first use
customizing software or the
touch screen of the embroidery
machine to move the design as close
as possible to the lower right corner
of the frame (F on page 69). This will
move the design from the center so that
it stitches out near the hem, while still
allowing enough hem allowance
for the hoop to grip.
Print or stitch a template of
the embroidery motif or trace
several copies of the outline,
including the cross marks,
onto semi-sheer tracing
paper.
Turn the garment inside
out. To ensure enough
margin for hooping ease,
mark a line parallel to the
cut hem edge to indicate
the vertical center of the
hoop frame (G). Play
with the tracings,
G To ensure enough
margin for hooping
ease, mark line
parallel to cut hem
edge to indicate
vertical center of
hoop frame.
17
working around the garment edge and
spacing them out over the parallel line
(H). Bear in mind that the designs will
appear in mirror image on the right side
of the garment. Note: It’s easier to keep
track of motifs that march around the hem
all in the same direction. Once you’re
happy with the layout, pin the tracings in
place.
Embroidery
Choose a motif specially digitized for
bobbinwork; or another continuous
Another Idea
As an alternative to bobbinwork, a simple motif digitized for a straight or triple
stitch will produce a similar result when sewn in 30-weight thread using a size
90/14 embroidery needle. Be sure to test-stitch first, as it may be necessary to
enlarge the design for the larger fiber (but do not change the stitch count).
Mark and hoop the fabric as for normal stitching.
outline design that doesn’t have jump
stitches. Consult your manual or get
some tips from your dealer on setting
up your particular machine model for
bobbinwork.
Use a separate bobbin case or one that
is intended for use with thicker threads
Refer to the manufacturer’s directions for
adjusting and installing a separate bobbin
case.
Choose thread and other fibers that are
too large for a machine needle. Slowly
machine-or hand-wind a bobbin with the
decorative thread, bypassing the bobbin
tension disc and gently guiding the thread
with your fingers. Thread the needle with
a matching color embroidery thread or
invisible monofilament thread.
On scrap fabric, test-stitch the embroidery motif. Loosen the hoop frame enough
to secure a scrap of the fashion fabric,
upside down and without stabilizer. This
allows a clear view of the cross marks on
the fabric for accurate positioning. Avoid
over-tightening the hoop, which may leave
an impression in the loft of the fabric.
If the test hooping process leaves hoop
H Play with tracings, working around
garment edge and spacing them out
over parallel line.
marks, consider sandwiching the fabric
between two layers of clear tear-away
water-soluble stabilizer. This will help prevent hoop burn and add support to the
fabric while still being able to see the fabric markings.
Advance the needle to the first stitch and
slow the machine speed. Place a patch of
lightweight tear-away stabilizer over the
fabric and then hand-turn the flywheel to
make a single stitch. Use the needle thread
to draw the bobbin thread to the top (I).
Embroider the motif, gently guiding the
stabilizer patch until it catches in the
stitching.
Rather than trimming the thread ends
right away, allow them to be caught in the
stitching until they’re secure; then stop the
machine and trim the threads close to the
surface. Remove the hoop carefully and
trim the threads, leaving tails of about 4".
Gently remove as much stabilizer as
possible and use a tapestry needle to draw
the bobbin thread tail to the back of the
work for knotting. Make any adjustments
necessary to the bobbin tension.
I
Use needle thread to draw bobbin
thread to top.
To embroider each motif around the
garment edge, center each cross mark in
the hoop, using the vertical and horizontal
indicators on the hoop frame for reference. Be sure to advance to the first stitch
in the motif before placing the stabilizer
and drawing the bobbin thread to the top
each time. Remove as much stabilizer as
possible; do not press.
Hem & fringe
Turn the hem edges under 1". Press and
pin. With the garment right side up stitch
1 ⁄ 2" from the fold. Trim the remaining
hem allowance close to the stitching line.
Plan the spacing for the tassels and
mark the hem edge for each. Because
microfleece is very tightly knitted, use an
awl or small punch to make a hole in the
hem for each tassel position.
For each tassel, cut four to five strands
of decorative thread and/or yarn, each 8”
long. Draw them through the hem edge
once, using a large, sharply pointed tapestry needle. Bring the ends even; tie in an
overhand knot. Stephanie Corina Goddard is a frequent contributor to
Sew News. She writes and sews in Easton, Md. to the
Vine design: Husqvarna Viking, Edging Excellence,
design 4
Hand-guided scallops made on the Husqvarna Viking
Designer 1.
Bear design: Artistic Designs, #AD0228B_12
Poncho design: YLI Corp., DigiBobbE Collection 2,
design 8.
Credit
YLI Corp. provided the RibbonFloss for the featured
tassels.
18
NS
8
FAB DESIG
ERY
20 EMBROID 25 OVER
DAY
GREAT MOTHER’S
SHOWCASED INSIDE
TYPES EXPLAINED
GIFT IDEAS
$1000
IN PRIZES
WIN!
TO
SEE PAGE 12
IDEAS, INSPIRATIONS, & TECHNIQUES
Constr uc t
a Cut e
Coupon
C lut ch
Floral
hes
Flouris
ple
Add
to a Sim
Dress
Ch ange your
Dé co r in a Snap
with a Pil low
for all Seasons
Save Money!
Stay Organized &
s
Use Small Hoop
ns
for Large Desig
we show you how!
AY
W IPS
urr
n You
on
iion
CUABTIL-A
Posittio
IZER T
ERccu
ST
curately
A
sMAc
UM
iNgn
Sns
sUign
eFsig
Des
De
es
u
ni
TSnt Techniqu
ECeme
withPEasy
ROJPlac
com
www.CMEMag.
20
10
HOOP
IN-THE-
ESIGN
FREE D
Discover New Ideas
& Inspiration For
Embroidery Success!
AM
3/7/11 9:05:13
1.indd 1
CMEP-110600-CN
te
avori
te a F p w ith
Upda
To
ng
Bloomiidery
Embro
l way
A Coroochet
C
to igns that
+
Every issue offers:
Des
e work!
do all th
• One-of-a-kind projects
RT
EXPE TERS
POIN
ucker
35
FREE
ork
Cut w
New hments
r
o
f
c
ts
t Trea Fun Atta ined
Swee
ayrss +FREEEEn E x p la
SNOWFLAKE ir thd ter
ig
e
es
st
s
B pca
D
a ST-H
ke coMU
DESIGNS
E VVALENTINE’S DAY
n RY ESSEAV
•cu ca mEMBR
sigOIDE
NTIALS
for P ntion
Preve
10
5
•ice crea
PROJECTS TO LOV
P
E
CELEBR
10
indd
0-CN1.
1
-11080
CMEP
4:43 PM
• Quick tips & techniques
YEARS
ATING
5/3/11
• Expert advice
• Step-by-step instructions
• Hot trends & products
Stitch Fabulo
Freestandingus
Lace
Ev
ery Time
Stabilizing
Secrets for
CHIFFON
STITCHOUTS
Personalize
Pretty Purse a
+
Elegant
Accessory
Made Easy
free designs onl
ine
Make Designs
POP
with Trapun
Techniques to
Amazing Home
Décor Transform
Subscribe online for special web savings and a FREE gift!
ation
*See the
*S
h b
befo
f re & after
f
iinsid
ide**
ENTER TO WIN
FABULOUS PRIZ
ES IN OUR 1ST
EVER SCAVENGER
HUNT CONTES
1-001.indd CC1
T!
CMEP-110200-CN
11/10/10 7:53:08
AM
SUBSCRIBE TODAY! www.CMEmag.com/Subscribe

tutorials - Creative Machine Embroidery

Transcription

Similar documents

Hemming Jeans Like a Pro

1909 #23 Pillowslip in Cutwork Embroidery -

“Poke Berry Basket” Supply List

Bread Warmer - Creative Machine Embroidery

Embroidering Drawstring Backpack Drawstring backpacks are a

asher yatzar - Jewish Pathways

Stress-Free Quilt Piecing with Machine Embroidery

badgemaster bc

Smocking a Dainty Designs Dress

working with fabric