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About Palermo
Located in the northwest of the island of Sicily, in the Tyrrhenian Sea, Palermo is a buzzing
Mediterranean centre, whose 1 million inhabitants are a fascinating cocktail of apparently conflicting
characteristics. With its 2,700-years of history, Palermo has seen many different dominations,
including the Phoenicians, the Carthaginians, the Greeks, the Romans, the Saracen Arabs, the
Normans, the Swabians, the French and the Spanish Bourbons just to name the most influential. These
dominations created an intriguing fusion of people, architectural styles, languages and even ingredients
used in the local dishes. The city is full of contradictions: elegant liberty villas and essential Arabic
fortress, wonderful palaces and damaged buildings in the old center, baroque churches full of
decorations and Norman churches with red domes, modern shopping areas and local markets (whose
Arabic origins are still evident today thanks to their noise, smells, colors, narrow labyrinthine streets
and the general ‘souk’ atmosphere).
Visiting Palermo is a continuous trip among centuries and cultures that will make your experience
memorable!
A shortcut for your visit
There are many different things that can be experienced in Palermo, including historical, natural and
gastronomical itineraries. As a quick reference, we here provide a short summary of all the key places
of the city not to miss:
1. The Royal Palace (called the Palazzo dei Normanni) with the extraordinary Cappella
Palatina. It was the seat of the Kings in Sicily during the Norman domination and served
afterwards as the main seat of power for the subsequent rulers of Sicily;
Figure1–RoyalChapelwithbyzantinegoldmosaicsandmuqarnaswoodenceiling.
Figure2–TheRoyalPalace
2.
the Zisa castle, a summer residence of the Norman Kings inspired by Moorish architecture.
The name Zisa itself derives from the Arab term al-Azîz, meaning "noble", "glorious",
"magnificent";
Figure3–TheZisaCastleandgarden
3.
the Duomo di Monreale, with its gold byzantine mosaics, and the Cathedral, which
summarizing the history of the city from the byzantine times to the neo-classical ones.
Emperor Frederick II, "Stupor Mundi" is buried here;
Figure4–CathedralofPalermo
4.
The Baroque Churches of San Domenico, a burial-place for illustrious politicians and artists,
and Casa Professa, with its unique decoration features of intricate intarsia (stone inlay);
Figure5–AnexampleofBaroqueChurchinPalermo:SanGiuseppedeiTeatini
5.
The Arabic-Norman Churches of San Cataldo, Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio, and San
Giovanni degli Eremiti with the red domes and the Chiesa dello Spasimo (in the Kalsa
district);
Figure6–ChurchofSanCataldowiththetypicalRedDomes
Figure7–ChurchofSantaMariadelloSpasimointheKalsadistrict
6.
7.
the Capuchin Monastery with its impressive catacombs and mummy collection, where the
relatives were used to visit the deceased people whose embalmed bodies were exposed. This
somehow macabre attraction is an interesting representation of the deep relationship between
life and death for Sicilians;
the Gardens: the English Garden, villa Malfitano, the Botanical Garden, villa Garibaldi and
the Favorita’s Park, where it's possible to admire many exotic plants, secular trees, as well as
statues and fountain;
Figure8–BotanicGardens
8.
the Opera Houses: Teatro Massimo, the biggest lyric theater in Italy designed by Giovan
Battista Filippo Basile renowned for its perfect acoustics, and the neoclassic Politeama;
Figure9‐TeatroMassimoOperaHouse
Figure10–TeatroPoliteamaOperaHouse
9.
the Markets of Vucciria, Ballarò and Capo. These are the perfect place to discover the
ingredients
of
Sicilian
cooking
and
the
local
market
atmospheres;
Figure11–Anexampleoftypicalmarket
10. the Beach: Modello, the sandy beach lying between Monte Pellegrino and Monte Gallo. Born
as a small fishing village close to Palermo, it is now a center of tourism and the home of the
World Windsurfing Festival.
Figure12‐MondelloBeach
Figure13‐MondelloBeachasitappearsfromMontePellegrino
Figure14–ChurchofSantaMariadellaCatena,PiazzaMarina
Figure15–UtveggioCastleonthetopofMontePellegrino
Three walking itineraries
(http://www.thinksicily.com/guide-to-sicily/towns-and-cities-in-sicily/palermo.aspx)
Itinerary 1: From the Quattro Canti to the Norman Palace
The "Quattro Canti"
The “Quattro Canti” is the junction in Palermo. Effectively, it is the centre point of the four areas of the
old town centre. You will almost inevitably pass through it and it is worth stopping for five minutes to
have a look at its sculptures which were commissioned by the Spanish Viceroy in 1611. The sculptures
on each of the four corners depict a variety of themes, including the four seasons, four Spanish kings
and the four patron saints of the old town areas.
Piazza Pretoria
Going south-east down Via Maqueda you will come across Piazza Pretoria which is home not only to a
splendid fountain but several other impressive buildings including, on the right, the City Hall. The
fountain, known for generations as the “Fountain of Shame”, has an interesting history. It was
originally built in 1555 by the Florentine sculpture Francesco Camiliani for a Tuscan villa owned by
the Viceroy Pedro de Toledo. His son, on inheriting the villa in 1574, thought it a little too risqué for
his tastes and sold it to the City of Palermo who erected it where it now stands. The large central
fountain is the focal point for sixteen nude statues of nymphs, humans, mermaids and satyrs. If you
imagine this being erected during the Inquisition, it is quite easy to imagine why it received its epithet,
the “Fountain of Shame”.
The Church of Santa Maria dell'Ammiraglio (La Martorana)
Behind the City Hall, there is another square, Piazza Bellini where you can see two of Palermo’s most
interesting churches: the Church of Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio (more commonly known as La
Martorana) and the Church of San Cataldo, instantly recognizeable thanks to its trio of red domes. La
Martorana was commissioned in 1143 by George of Antioch, a famous Admiral (a word of Arabic
origin) of the fleet of King Roger II. Initially the church was dedicated to the celebration of Greek
Orthodox rites but this changed in the 13th century when it became part of the Catholic Church.
Several parts of the structure were unfortunately changed during the 17th century and many of the
original mosaics were discarded to make way for Baroque frescoes. However, the surviving mosaics
are amongst the most impressive ever to have been created in Sicily. Indeed, the craftsmen who were
brought from Byzantium by King Roger II to work on the Normal Palace and the Duomo at Cefalu’,
also contributed their art to this church. The wonderful bell tower outside is the apogee of NormanArab architecture.
The Church of San Cataldo
Standing next to La Martorana is the miniscule Church of San Cataldo, characterised by its three red
domes. It was built in 1154 and has retained its original ascetic atmosphere perfectly. The only
decoration to speak of is the original mosaic floor. It is presently the religious seat of the Knights of
the Holy Sepulchre in Palermo.
The Casa Professa
The Casa Professa or Chiesa del Gesù is a Baroque masterpiece built by the Jesuits over 12 years
between 1564 and 1578. Additions were made until 1634 when the church was considered complete.
Much of the artwork inside was carried out by the Jesuit priests themselves and its florid decorations
were, and still are, amongst the most splendid in Palermo.
The Ballaro'
The Ballarò is probably the oldest of Palermo’s Arabic markets. The derivation of its name is unsure
but may come from the name of the North African village where most of the Arabic traders working in
the market originated: Balhara. Nowadays, the market’s Arabic roots are still evident and it is well
worth a detour if not a specific visit.
The Church of San Giuseppe dei Teatini
This church, built in 1612, is a must-see for anyone who loves Baroque architecture. If you do not, it
might be a good idea to stay away, though it is still quite impressive. Amongst the great many works of
art inside is a painting entitled “The Triumph of Sant’Andrea Avellino” by the Dutch artist Borremans
dating back to 1724. There is also a great deal of skilled marble-work to be seen.
Around the Norman Palace
The area around the Norman Palace has long been the seat of Kings and rulers and today it plays host
to the Sicilian Regional Parliament. Piazza Indipendenza and Porta Nuova used to mark Palermo’s
southern boundary though nowadays the city spreads right up to the Conca d’Oro valley under
Monreale. The Norman Palace is flanked on either side by large shady piazzas, Piazza Indipendenza to
the south and Piazza della Vittoria to the north.
La Capella Palatina (The Palatine Chapel)
Probably the most visited monument in Palermo and should not be missed. Built in 1130, the same year
in which King Roger II acceded to the throne of the Norman kingdom, the Cappella Palatina is a small,
compact masterpiece hidden away inside the Royal Palace. Once again it is characterised by a fusion of
different architectural styles, most evidently the Byzantine mosaics and the wooden Arabic
honeycombed ceiling. Other parts of the Norman Palace are also open to the public.
The Cathedral
Built towards the end of the 12-th century over pre-existing structures, has been much altered,
especially in the 18-th century, the period from which the majestic dome and the interior date. The
original style is visible in the apses, which have preserved their geometric decoration, while the porch
on the south side, in Catalan Gothic style, is 15-th century. The façade giving onto Via Matteo Bonello,
which has kept its 14-th/15-th century appearance, is linked by two arches to the campanile on the
other side of the street. To the north of the cathedral is the Loggia dell’ Incoronazione, where
traditionally the kings appeared before the people after being crowned
Itinerary 2: The Piazza Marina Area
Piazza Marina and its surrounding area is one of the most interesting parts of Palermo. It is to be found
at the bottom (the sea end) of Corso Vittorio Emanuele and is delimited by the seafront to the east, Via
Lincoln and the Botanical Garden to the south-east and Via Roma to the south-west. The area in
general is known as La Kalsa and was originally an Arabic quarter. It is home to numerous aristocratic
palaces, churches, restaurants, mazy streets and fascinating piazzas.
You can quite easily spend a whole morning wandering around this area. Here follows a list of places
well worth a visit:
Palazzo Steri (also known as Palazzo Chiaramonte, where the conference will be held)
Looking over Piazza Marina on the north side, Palazzo Steri is a typical example of the kind of
fortressed palaces that were fairly common amongst powerful mediaeval noble families. It was built in
1307 and has had a fascinating history. Apart from being the scene of many power struggles between
local noble families and sovereign rulers (in particular the Spanish), Palazzo Steri became the official
residence of the Spanish Viceroy and then, in 1601, the Sicilian branch of the “Spanish” Inquisition
took it over as their base. Indeed, Piazza Marina witnessed many an execution as the Inquisition took
root in Palermo.
Today it is home to the offices of the Rector of Palermo University and, of equal importance, to Renato
Guttuso’s world-famous painting of the Vucciria market.
Palazzo Abbatellis (the Regional Art Gallery)
Completed in 1488, Palazzo Abbatellis was built in a Catalan Gothic style that is quite evident to the
visitor thanks to its castle-like battlements. Inside, it is now home to the Regional Art Gallery, whose
collection includes several masterpieces including a sculpture by Francesco Laurana, the “Bust of
Eleanor of Aragon”, Antonello da Messina’s “Our Lady of the Annunciation” and the famous fresco by
an unknown artist entitled “The Triumph of Death”.
Piazza Magione
The vast expanse of Piazza Magione is a simply fascinating story of urban planning, or non-planning.
The area was heavily bombed during the 2nd World War and despite funding from both America and
the Italian central government in Rome, nothing was done to restore the area. For many years, in fact,
the bombed out shells of buildings remained until, in the 1960s, the whole area was razed to the ground
to be become an unofficial car park. Finally, in the 1990s, the local government bought the land and
turned it into a large grassy quad, planted trees (only a few) and now it is a play area for the quarter’s
children and a venue for occasional concerts during the summer.
La Basilica della Magione
It has an equally interesting, though more conventional history. Originally built in 1191, it was initially
entrusted to the Cistercian order that lived in the adjoining cloisters. Only six years later, however,
King Henry VI von Hohenstaufen handed it over to the Teutonic Knights who retained control over it
until the 15th Century. Many Baroque additions were subsequently made to the church but, fortunately,
these were removed during its restoration after the 2nd World War bombings and the church you see
today is virtually the same as the original one, a delightful, simple example of very late Arab-Norman
architecture.
The Basilica of San Francesco d'Assisi
If you compare this wonderful mediaeval church to La Magione, it becomes clear how quickly
architectural styles developed and evolved in Palermo. Indeed, while La Magione incorporated and
drew on Arab-Norman architectonic philosophy, the Basilica of San Francesco, started in 1255, is built
in a typically Italian Romanesque Gothic Style. The façade, completed in the early 1300s, has a classic
rose window and false arches but inside the mood is much more ascetic, as maybe befits a church
dedicated to San Francesco. Indeed, today there is still an order of Franciscan monks that live in the
adjoining monastery. The church also plays host to frequent concerts.
Itinerary 3: From Teatro Massimo to Piazza Politeama
Teatro Massimo, in Piazza Giuseppe Verdi, is right on the border between the old Palermo town centre
and the more modern, more commercial part of Palermo. Directly opposite the theatre is a series of
mazy streets full of bars, restaurants and craft shops, while to the north-west lies the wealthiest
shopping and residential areas of down-town Palermo.
Teatro Massimo
Teatro Massimo has anything but a simple history and for this is typical of Palermo. Originally
commissioned in 1868 (after several years of deliberation), it was not until 1875 when the Palermitan
architect, Giovan Battista Basile was finally allowed to begin transforming his plans into reality.
Progress was slow, however, and work was suspended from 1882 to 1890. The following year, in 1891,
Basile died without ever seeing his great masterpiece completed and his son, Ernesto, was called upon
to finish the works. Finally, in 1897, Teatro Massimo, then the second largest opera house in Europe
after L’Opera in Paris, opened its doors to the public with a performance of Verdi’s Falstaff. The same
year, a very young Caruso, in only his second professional role, sang in a production of La Gioconda.
For 77 years things ran relatively smoothly and many of the opera world’s most famous stars sang
there, including, Gigli, Di Stefano, Maria Callas and Pavarotti. However, in 1974 the theatre was
“temporarily” closed so that it could be brought into line with modern safety regulations.
Unfortunately, in the Palermo of those years, "temporary" was devoid of its usual meaning and not
until 1997, some 25 years later, did Teatro Massimo finally reopen.
Piazza Olivella and the Regional Archeaological Museum
Directly opposite Teatro Massimo is Via Bara dell’Olivella, a narrow street famous for its craft shops
and its puppet theatre (well worth a visit on Sunday afternoon for both adults and children). At the end
is Piazza Olivella, one of Palermo’s nightlife centres with lots of bars and restaurants, and home to the
imposing Baroque Church of Sant’Ignazio and the Regional Archaeological Museum. The Museum,
which houses, amongst other things, two large statues of Zeus dating back to the 2nd century BC and,
in the lovely cloisters, several Greek and Roman statues taken from Solunto and Tindari. The other
streets of the area are also fun to wander around.
Il Capo Market
Il Capo is one of Palermo’s four main street markets and possibly the busiest. Its Arabic origins are
evident and it is well worth a visit in the morning when the level of hustle and bustle is at its highest. It
concentrates mainly on the sale of food and the fish stalls are of particular renown. It is strange to think
that this market borders on the enormous Fascist era law courts, two aspects of Palermo that could
hardly be more different. Wending your way through the streets you will catch glimpses of the
Cathedral. The secret in these labyrinthine alleys is to follow your nose.
Shopping
Via Ruggero Settimo- Piazza Politeama -Via della Liberta’
Palermo's main shopping streets are between Teatro Massimo and Piazza Politeama and along Via
delle Libertá. From outside Teatro Massimo, go west along Via Ruggero Settimo where you will find
some of the most exclusive shops in Palermo. Halfway down this road is a pedestrian area street called
Via Principe Belmonte, where there are some nice bars and cafés where you can sit outside and watch
the world go by.
Ruggero Settimo leads directly to Piazza Politeama with its impressive theatre (the second in terms of
size after Teatro Massimo). On the opposite side of the square, continuing in the same direction, is Via
della Libertá one of the most desirable residential areas in Palermo as well as being home to more
upmarket shops, restaurants and bars.
If you continue walking down Via della Libertá for about 1km you will come to a large junction, on the
other side of which, on your right, are the Giardino Inglese, which may be worth a visit if you have
young children with you. There are some small fairground rides, dodgem cars, etc. but also plenty of
space to run and play.
Institutional websites
> Palermo tourist office
> Tourism department of Sicily
Theatres
> Teatro Massimo
> Teatro Libero
> Teatro Biondo
> Teatro Nuovo Montevergini
> Teatro del Canto Popolare Ditirammu
Art Galleries
Francesco Pantaleone Arte Contemporanea,Via Garraffello 25
Zelle Arte Contemporanea Via Matteo Bonello, 19
Nuvole incontri d'arte, Via Matteo Bonello 21
Spazio Cannatella Via Papireto 10
Monuments, Churchs and Museums
> La Cattedrale di Palermo
> Il Museo delle Marionette
> Palazzo Abatellis
> Arsenale di Palermo
> Galleria d'Arte Moderna di Palermo
> Riso Museo di Arte Contemporanea della Sicilia
> Casina alla Cinese
> Centro d'Arte Piana dei Colli - Villa Alliata Cardillo
> Società siciliana per la storia patria
> Casa Museo Stanze al Genio
> Museo del giocattolo
> Museo Gemmellaro
> Palazzo Asmundo
> Orto botanico
Wiki links
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palermo
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sicily
http://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palermo
http://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Isola_di_Ustica
http://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Provincia_di_Palermo
http://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Storia_di_Palermo
http://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sicilia
http://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Storia_della_Sicilia