Palermo - Carla Capalbo

24 hours.
out&about
12.30pm
pottery and pasta
From the cathedral, walk down towards
the sea and duck into Casa Merlo (Corso
Vittorio Emanuele 231), an artisan
ceramics shop that gathers the island’s
best handmade pots and plates. Then on
to Antica Focacceria S. Francesco (Via
A Paternostro 58) for a lunch of authentic
dishes – perhaps arancini stuffed with
ragu or pasta alla Norma (with eggplant).
If the weather is nice, sit in the piazza
beside the San Francesco baroque church.
3.30pm
gelato time
Most shops don’t reopen until 5pm, so now
is a good time to explore the spectacular
botanical garden or the boat-filled tourist
port. As you wander, pick up a cone of
gelato at Gelateria Illardo (Foro Umberto I
11) located within the palatial walls of the
sea front. Try the varied citrus flavours,
from mandarin to lemon.
7pm
Swap the Aussie winter for Mediterranean sunshine, fresh seafood
and decadent frozen breakfasts in Sicily’s capital, says Carla Capalbo.
9am
Frozen breakfast
When in Sicily, to do as the locals do:
indulge in the ultimate summer breakfast
– scoops of frozen coffee granita served
in a soft brioche bun with whipped cream
on top from Antico Caffè Spinnato (Via
Principe di Belmonte 107-115). Or have a
spremuta d’arancia (orange juice), freshly
squeezed from the island’s superbly
fragrant blood oranges.
9.30am
Hit the markets
If it’s a weekday, head to the colourful
Mercato del Capo (Via Porta Carini and
surrounding streets – above) in the old
158 delicious.
Arab quarter, which is full of stalls selling
fresh local produce. The fish displays are
amazing, with all the Mediterranean’s
creatures on show, from octopus to
scorpion fish. Look for Pantelleria capers
preserved in salt and chunks of wine-red
sundried tomato paste. Snack on a slice of
hot sfincione (Sicilian pizza) from a street
vendor while you admire the fruit and veg.
11am
Cool cathedral
Escape to the cool of the monumental
Palermo Cathedral (Corso Vittorio
Emanuele) showcasing a mix of all the
cultures that dominated Sicily, from the
Normans and Byzantines to the Saracens.
9pm
dinner in the piazza
Ristorante Santandrea (Piazza
Sant’Andrea 4) offers a modern approach
to traditional recipes in a tiny piazza in the
city centre. Pasta con le sarde, made with
fresh sardines, is a house speciality.
11.30pm
literary nightcap
Finish the night with a late drink and
live music at bar/restaurant/bookshop
Kursaal Kalhesa (Foro Umberto I 21).
Hidden within the grandiose walls of the
16th century Porta dei Greci, it spills out
into terraced gardens in summer. d.
photography: carla capalbo
palermo
twilight stroll
Don’t expect dinner at seven in Palermo,
that’s when the locals are setting out for
la passeggiata – a leisurely stroll through
the main streets in the cooler evening air
before mealtime. If you’re in the mood for
a glass of wine and Sicilian artisan cheese,
stop in at relaxed bar La Dispensa dei
Monsù (Via Principe di Villafranca 59).