GQ l 1 - Guide Gai du Québec
Transcription
GQ l 1 - Guide Gai du Québec
GQ l 1 2 l GQ GQ l 3 GQ l 5 6 l GQ GQ l 7 credit 8 l GQ GQ l 9 Table of Contents National 12. Québec's Two-Spirited History 14. In the Land of Xavier Dolan Montréal and Surrounding Areas 16. Montréal 26. OId Port 34. Downtown 48. The Village 74. The Plateau Mont-Royal 84. Hochelaga-Maisonneuve 89. Longueuil & Montérégie (South Shore) 96. Eastern Townships 109. The Laurentians 124. Lanaudière Ottawa, Gatineau et l’ouest du Québec 131. Ottawa & Gatineau 144. Outaouais, Abitibi & Témiscamingue Québec et région, Est du Québec 153. Québec City National Capital Area 186. Côte-de-Beaupré & Portneuf 194. Chaudières-Appalaches 198. Charlevoix 207. Trois-Rivières & Mauricie 214. Centre-du-Québec 219. Saguenay 224. Lac-Saint-Jean 230. The North Shore 235.Lower St. Lawrence 246. The Gaspé 260. Acadia/Iles-de-la-Madeleine Les Éditions HMX 2011 Publisher : André Gagnon Marketing: Pierre Druelle, Sean McKenzie, Luc Barrette, André Gagnon Editorial team: André Gagnon, François Bernier, Jordan Arseneault Art director: César Ochoa Graphic designers : Carolina Ramirez, Marie-France Thuot, Étienne Desforges Postal address : C.P. 915, Succursale C, Montréal, Qc (514)521-5557 www.guidegaiduquebec.com Le Guide gai du Québec (Guide GQ). Tous droits réservés. ISSN 0845-4736 10 l GQ GQ l 11 National National is shown increasingly as a young open-minded nation, overflowing with talent. It was for this reason that the director of 2010’s multi award-winning Heartbeats received the annual Prix de lutte contre l’homophobie from Québec’s Minister of Justice in 2011 to add to a host of international prizes. “In my films and in my stories, I never feel the need to make political demands, or to second guess myself, because to a large extent things are taken for granted. I know that this has been made possible by the men and women who have fought for years—well before I was born, and as I was growing up—for their rights, for freedom, and for progress,” Dolan declared in his acceptance speech, recognizing the prolonged struggle which was fought over decades to build a society in which equality for gays, lesbians and bisexuals was finally possible. It is in this spirit that we invite you to discover Québec’s different regions, while at the same time getting to know (or getting reacquainted with), the many artists who have left their mark on our culture. Our artists have been trail-blazers in standing up for our reality and our existence, all across Québec. Xavier Dolan © Étienne Ljóni Poisson Happy travels and bons voyages! André Gagnon, publisher In the Land of Xavier Dolan Québec’s openness to sexual diversity is a national trademark on the world stage. In 1977, it was the first to legislate against discrimination on the basis of sexual orientation, only a few years after the decriminalization of homosexuality in 1969. With unparalleled unanimity, the National Assembly instituted civil unions for same sex couples in 2002, which included changes to family law. Québec had gone as far as it could in regards to same-sex unions leading up to the Canada-wide redefinition of marriage on the federal level in 2005. Then, in 2009, Québec became one of very few countries on the planet to adopt a national policy against homophobia. All of which shows the extent of Québec’s openness to GLBT people, which is reflected in the four corners of the country where the presence of GLBT life and culture are felt. Much of the credit is due to the men and women who formed contemporary Québec, and amongst them, you’ll find many of artists who have given expression to its culture. Québec in 2011 resembles largely the worldview of star director Xavier Dolan. As in the 22 year-old director’s films, homosexuality is lived out more or less undramatically, and as part of everyday life. With Dolan and others, Québec 12 l GQ Les Amours imaginaires (2010) GQ l 13 National National Québec’s Two-spirited History Homophobia came to Québec and to the larger part of North America the moment the first European colonizers set foot on the continent at the end of the 15th century. As Christians, they were convinced that sex should only be between a man and a woman, for reproductive purposes. As they repressed any homosexual behavior amongst themselves, so colonizers extended this repression to the First Nations people, whose sexual mores were much more open. For the majority of North American First Nations Peoples, sexuality was seen as a gift from the gods, to be used with complete freedom. As such, they saw nothing wrong with talking about sex in front of their children, or with children’s sexual exploration, provided all parties were consenting. Nor was sexuality confined to adult marital relations, and as such, men could have several wives, or could marry men who had taken on the role of a woman, i.e. the berdaches or two-spirited ones. The berdache phenomenon is a particular social tradition in which a man decides of his own free will to adopt the role of a woman. The inverse phenomenon existed as well, but was not included in the same term, and is unfortunately less well documented. Whether they were male-born or female-born, two-spirited people were held in high esteem because they were seen as holding both femi14 l GQ nine and masculine spirits, which made them spiritually more powerful. The use of the term “two-spirited” is now extensively used amongst First Nations Peoples since berdache was seen as having a European origin. Two-spirited people were also discouraged from marrying so that they could devote their lives to shamanism. The annual celebration for the two-spirited shaman would involve having all their partners dance for them. The adoption of the opposite sex’s role came with a change in clothing from the time of puberty. As such, there was no stigma against transvestitism, since it was seen as a perfectly acceptable personal choice. The only restrictive criterion in these societies was that a person had to choose a masculine or feminine identity and stick to it. Nonetheless, it meant that fundamentally one’s sex at birth did not determine one’s future gender role. Over time, and centuries of Judaeo-Christian repression, two-spirited people in the formal sense disappeared, but luckily the tradition has not been forgotten. Hence, you have the title of the first gay magazine published in Québec by the ADGQ, l’Association pour la défense des droits des gai-e-s du Québe: Le Berdache was so named as a reminder that homophobia had not always been the norm in this country, even long before the decriminalization of homosexuality in 1969. GQ l 15 Montréal Montréal Montréal, Les belles-soeurs, musical comedy 2011 the world of Michel Tremblay The novelist and playwright to most famously bring the soul of Montréal to the stage and page is without question, the great Michel Tremblay. For the last forty years, he has brought the language and spirit of working class Montréal to literary heights, leaving an indelible mark on contemporary Québec culture. Translated into countless foreign languages, Tremblay’s work has proven that this so-called "patois" of Québec French has the power to make us laugh, cry, and speak universal truths. Woman Next Door is Pregnant) and continues with five other titles that remain one of his greatest achievements. An openly gay writer, Tremblay depicts the city’s homo world with similar prowess in his other 5-novel series Le Gai Savoir (La Nuit des princes charmants, Quarante-quatre minutes, quarante-quatre secondes, Le Coeur découvert, Le Coeur éclaté, Hôtel Bristol New York, N.Y). It may go without saying that Tremblay’s works have been translated into over 25 languages and are applauded on stages across the globe. His first major success, Demain matin, Montréal, m’attend (1970) and the canonical Les Belles Sœurs are among the 30 novels and as many plays (musical or otherwise) that have made him a staple of international new theatre. Les Belles Sœurs was recently adapted as a musical by celebrated director René-Richard Cyr. Since the beginning of the 1970’s, this playwright laureate has written works that feature gays, lesbians, bisexuals and transvestites in works like La nuit des princes charmants (where a young man discovers his sexuality over one wintery night in Montréal), and his theatrical drag laments Hosanna and La duchessse de Langeais. His work has just as often been the basis for TV and film. While his literary works have been rewarded with countless prizes throughout his career, Michel Tremblay’s distinction by Québec’s then Minister of Justice, Kathleen Weil, and the Fondation Émergence notably won him the Lutte contre l’homophobie prize in 2010. Throughout his oeuvre, Montréal is the symbolic character that emerges first and foremost. Les chroniques du Plateau Mont-Royal is a six-novel series that begins with the acclaimed La Grosse Femme à côté est enceinte (The Fat As you traipse through Montréal’s downtown, along the Main, and on the Plateau Mont-Royal and in the Village, you’ll be retracing the steps of many of Tremblay’s characters. 16 l GQ GQ l 17 Montréal Montréal, here I come! The past forty years have seen an amazing progression of Montréal’s gay and lesbian community, from the closet to its current status as major international gay hot-spot, from its early “outing” in the works of Michel Tremblay, to the Gay Village which has become renowned the world over as a major gay scene, to the huge circuit events like Black & Blue and Divers/Cité, which have put Montréal on the map for some twenty years, and, most recently, the 2006 World OutGames, which solidified Montréal’s place on the short list of the world’s major gay destinations. This tremendous openness to sexual diversity is something that is not new to this urban centre, whose 3.5 million inhabitants share a history of cultural diversity. 18 l GQ GQ l 19 Montréal Montréal Pointe à Callières Museum© waynetaylor Montréal, Québec’s Metropolis Founded in 1642 as a frontier post of New France, in the middle of First Nations territory of the upper St. Lawrence valley, the young colony learned early on how to live in peace with its surrounding neighbours, signing the treaty known as the Great Peace of Montréal with 39 First Nations, in 1701. Conquered by British-American troops in 1760, during the Seven Years War, which pitted the great European powers against each other, it has ever since been a place where different cultural and linguistic communities have mingled, in spite of their apparent “solitudes”. In the 20th century, waves of immigrants from the four corners of the world started to shake up the old French-English, East-West division of the city on boul. St-Laurent, adding a wide variety of cultures to the mix. With its many major Jewish, Italian, Haitian, Latin-American and Middle-Eastern communities, Montréal has become a multicultural metropolis. The world’s second largest French-speaking city after Paris, Montréal is home to a variety of accents of the French-speaking countries, spoken by its majority bilingual inhabitants, many of whom are trilingual (Spanish, after English, is Montrealers’ 3 rd most commonly spoken language). The minority English-speaking community 20 l GQ The Magic of Lanters at Jardin Botanique 20th’s anniversary © Jardins Botanique of Montréal is also very diverse in origins and accents and has colored the Montréal fabric.This effervescent mélange is what gives Montréal its European flair and North American reality. Differences of sexual orientation aren’t seen as strange, but rather as just one more kind of socio-cultural difference. As Canada’s foremost francophone city, and a major university hub, Montréal’s outstanding cultural scene and major festivals make it a year-round tourist attraction. These outstanding festivals are an awesome way to experience the heart and the soul of Montréal. For the gay and lesbian community in Québec and other French-speaking Canadians, but also for many English Canadians, Montréal is more and more the foremost centre of gay life not only in Québec, but also in Canada. Like it was for the young girl in Tremblay’s musical Demain matin, Montréal m’attend (“Tomorrow Morning, Montréal Awaits Me”), so many young gays and lesbians leave their small towns to start new lives in Montréal. In such a diverse community, no one is ever really “foreign”: diversity, whether sexual, ethnic, linguistic, or of cultural/national origin, is the rule rather than the exception. GQ l 21 22 l GQ GQ l 23 24 l GQ GQ l 25 Montréal Montréal Old Montréal Jean-Pierre Perusse © César Ochoa Terrasses Bon-Secours © MTOQ So sexy & charming ! Gays and lesbians have had a presence in Montreal since colonial times. Even under French rule, there is archival evidence of people being tried and punished for “buggery”, which was the term used at the time to describe sex between men. By the middle of the 19th century, the existence of gay meeting places in the Old Port becomes more apparent, according to the Québec Gay Archives. When the sun sets over the poplar-lined Champs de Mars, you can almost imagine men leaning against them, waiting to see who’s up for a roll in the hay. As a seaport, and then as party central during the American Prohibition years, Montreal was Canada’s biggest city; it became known from early on as an open city, the centre of gay life in Quebec. Not far from down town, with its extensive backdrop of colonial history, the Old Port has become a favourite neighbourhood for Montreal’s gays and lesbians. According to a survey conducted ten years ago, the Old Port boasts the second largest percentage of gay and bisexual-identified inhabitants in Montreal... after the Village. One such inhabitant is Jean-Pierre Pérusse, an actor and artistic director who has worked on many major events in the gay community, from the Black & Blue to pride festivities. 26 l GQ This heavily tourist-centred area is one of very few examples of pre20th century urban architecture in North America that is still relatively well preserved. Everyone will enjoy the narrow cobblestone streets, steeped in history, where it’s easy to see why scenes for films set in Europe can easily be shot. For a deeper look at the city’s past, take a tour of the Musée de la Pointe-à-Callière (archaeology and history) or the Château de Ramezay. For anyone wanting to experience the city’s tremenous historical range, there is a large variety of accommodations in the neighbourhood: you won’t want to miss the Maison Pierre-du-Calvet, built in 1770, which is still in use as an inn and restaurant. Galerie MX on rue Viger regularly shows new work by Zïlon, a fixture of Montréal’s gay visual art scene. For going out, there’s the UN, a club on rue Saint-Jacques that now hosts the monthly Drama Queen nights. In summertime, the Old Port’s Terrasses Bonsecours hosts Love Sundays with Angel Moraes, a coveted place for gay partiers. From the Old Port, you can easily catch a ferry or take the Concorde bridge to île Sainte-Hélène, where the Piknic Electronik’s outdoor techno and dance parties bring afternoon crowds to the Place de l’Homme. GQ l 27 Montréal Accomodation Montréal Casa de Mateo 440, rue Saint-Francois-Xavier, Montréal, H2Y 2T3 514.759.6755 www.casademateo.com Casa de Mateo, Inn and restaurant, welcomes you warmly in the old port. You will find the tastiest Mexican food in a cozy atmosphere. The Mariacas all weekend adds a charming touch to the decor. Hôtel Champ-De-Mars 756, rue Berri, Vieux-Montréal, H2Y 3E6 514.844.0767 1.888.997.0767 www.hotelchampdemars.com Located in the heart of Old Montreal and close to Jacques Cartier square, Champ de Mars Hotel’s a charming building erected in 1898, ideal to relive the New France in North America. Pretty and cozy rooms are waiting for you with a great value for your money. Hôtel Le Dauphin Montréal Centre-Ville 1025 De Bleury, Montréal, H2Z 1M7 514.788.3888 1.888.784.3888 www.hoteldauphin.ca Located near the entertainment district and two steps away from downtown and Old Montréal, Le Dauphin allows you to explore by foot the attractions of the metropolis. Enjoy high quality accommodation, a smoke-free environment and an expanded continental breakfast included to start the day! Le Saint-Sulpice, Hôtel boutique 414 Rue St-Sulpice, Montréal,Qc H2Y 2V5 1.877.SULPICE 514.288.1000 www.lesaintsulpice.com Tucked beside the historic Notre Dame Basilica in the heart of Old Montréal, the Saint Sulpice is a 4-star hotel where you’ll feel all the comforts of a private residence. 108 rooms, many with fireplace, balcony, or patio with garden views. 28 l GQ GQ l 29 Old Montréal Restaurants Belvü, Croisière- Boutique 154, rue St-Paul E. 2e étage, Montréal, Qc H2Y 1G6 514.303.3111 www.belvu.ca Setting off from the scenic Quais du Vieux-Port, this catamaran-lounge offers a boutique cruise experience in the heart of the city. For a relaxing party atmosphere and a change of scene, check out the Belvu! L’Assommoir 112, rue Bernard Ouest, Montréal, H2T 2K1 211, Notre Dame Ouest, Montréal, H2Y 1T4 514.272.0777 www.assommoir.ca [email protected] Whether at their Mile End or Old Port location, you’ll enjoy the beautiful lighting, mouth-watering food, and awesome music that make l’Assommoir the place to be. Tapas, ceviches, tartars, and grilled meats are at the top of the menu, along with over 250 cocktails from their fabulous drink menu. Le Bateau Mouche. During the beautiful days of its exclusive summer itinerary, the Bateau-Mouche leads you, nose to the wind, at the discovery of the Saint-Laurent! When evening comes, our boat of light and glass invites you to a creative gourmet experience, featuring an assortment of regional products. info: 514.849.9952 www.bateau-mouche.ca Restaurant Le Fibo 215, Notre Dame Ouest, Montréal, Qc H2Y 1T4 514.508.3426 514.654.3426 www.fibo.ca Chef-owner Sylvain Proulx has made Le Fibo a go-to location for exotic flavours and molecular cuisine. Affordable and served with a smile, this Old Port eatery is a must for its scientifically-made appetizers, mains, specials, and don’t forget to try the desserts! Restaurant Solmar 111 St-Paul Est, Montréal, Qc H2Y 1G7. 514.861.4562 www.solmar-montreal.com Located in the heart of Old Montréal in a 200 year-old building, the Solmar was the city’s first Portuguese restaurant (est. 1979). Enjoy the fish, sea food, and excellent port menu in an elegant atmosphere. 30 l GQ GQ l 31 Old Montréal Interesting places & activities Montréal Science Centre. Presents the exhibit Sex : A Tell-all Exhibition from April 15th, 2010 to March 13th, 2011, addressing the theme of sexual orientation, and much more. 2, rue De la Commune Ouest, Montréal, H2Y 4B2 Info : 514.496.4724 Château Ramezay Museum. This museum’s exhibits allow you to relive history; explore daily life from the early 18th century to the present day. 280, rue Notre-Dame Est, Montréal, H2Y 1C5 Info : 514.861.3708 Old Montréal CLUB UN // Montreal’s home of electronic music! A chic and sexy dance club with an underground vibe, Steve Bishop’s nightclub has become the new venue for the monthly Drama Queen nights. For table reservations and bottle service: [email protected] 390 Notre-Dame West Montréal ,QC info : 514-849-1390 www.un1.ca / Palais des congrès de Montréal. Welcomes each year the Bal en Blanc during easter week and The Black & Blue during Thanksgiving weekend. 201, av. Viger Ouest, Montréal, H2Z 1X7 Info : 514.871.3170 Expéditions sur les rapides de Lachine Ltée. An outdoor adventure awaits you in the middle of the Lachine Rapids and the St. Lawrence River! A refreshing excursion to take in the majestic rapids, the grandiose expanse of the river, and the magnificent view of Montréal. If you like to live on the edge and want to see Montréal from a new angle, come and see us! info: 514.284.9607 47 de la Commune Ouest, H2Y 2C6 www.sautemoutons.com Amphibus Tour It’s a tour bus that converts into a boat, offering exciting and one-of-a-kind views and guided tours of earth and water on the St Lawrence. You’ll see more of Old Montréal in one hour than you could see in a week on foot. Amphibus tours is definitely a must! info: 514.849.5181 www.montreal-amphibus-tour.com 32 l GQ GQ l 33 Downtown Downtown © MTOQ Once Upon Time in the West... End When Michel Tremblay was writing and directing his first scenes featuring gay characters at the beginning of the 1970’s, Montréal’s gay life was still concentrated in the west end of town. It’s fitting that Tremblay’s crossdressers would emerge from the post-war cabaret world on the Main. Only after the Second World War did a gay scene truly come into its own in the night clubs and bars on the western edge of downtown. Although not openly gay establishments at the time, a few bars and pubs became well known as gay meeting places, such at the Dominion Tavern and the Peel Pub (at the time). After the decriminalization of homosexuality in 1969, the first gay bars appear on Stanley Street. This would later be remembered as the belle époque of places like Limelight, Le Jardin, Truxx, and Bud’s. As with straight bars, these bars were typically street level, and in high-traffic areas. As a result of the skyrocketing rental costs and police repression which culminated in the months leading up to the 1976 Olympics, gay nightlife found itself moving east to a corridor of Sainte-Catherine Street which had been nearly abandoned after the massive expropriation and demolition which occurred in the 1960s in order to construct the CBC tower and the Ville-Marie throughway. The last ten years have seen a near-completion of this eastbound shift of the gay nightlife scene, with only the Sauna 456 and Cabaret Cléopâtre, a classic performance venue for drag queens, which is currently under threat of demolition. 34 l GQ GQ l 35 Downtown With its renowned hotels, high-end restaurants and department stores, major cultural institutions and museums, and of course the summer’s outdoor festivals, the downtown area continues to attract more than its share of gay visitors. All the more so since the Black & Blue, which celebrates its 20th edition this year, and the queer film festival Image+Nation both take place downtown. At its core, Montréal’s downtown shows its true North American nature, with a blend of French, British, and American influences. In the shadow of the sky-scrapers on René-Lévesque Boulevard, Sainte-Catherine Street has remained for over 100 years Montréal’s major commercial strip, where you can shop (or window shop) at Simons, Ogilvy’s, or Holt Renfrew. Following in the path of Yves Saint Laurent, Jean Paul Gaultier, and Keith Haring, Quebecois designer Denis Gagnon is getting the star treatment at the MBAM. Denis Gagnon Shows All is an exhibit celebrating 10 years of work, with set design by architect Gilles Saucier. As an added bonus, it’s also free, Oct. 19th, 2010 to Feb. 13th, 2011. Meanwhile, on your way back to the Village, you’ll pass through the newly christened Quartier des spectacles (Entertainment District), Montréal’s high culture quadrangle. Most of the city’s major performance venues can be found in and around Place des Arts and the new Place des Festivals. The summer offers a non-stop train of major outdoor festivals, starting with the Francofolies, continuing with the Jazz Festival, Just for Laughs, and rounding off with the World Film Fest in early September. It’s not unusual for an outdoor show at these festivals to attract more than 100,000 spectators, amazing events which are truly the city’s pride and joy. Between the Quartier des spectacles and the Village, the Quartier Latin (Latin Quarter), long a centre for French language college studies and for many years the city’s Red Light district, offers a transition between the downtown and East End areas. Sky scrapers clear away to reveal the city on a more human scale. The “other” Montréal emerges. Take a stroll down rue Saint-Denis and have a seat on a café-terrasse to observe the urban wildlife. Or head west a next block on Ontario Street and enjoy the best burger in town at La Paryse. 36 l GQ Downtown Downtown © Jerry Pigeon (Studio JPG) Jean-Paul Gaultier, an icon comes to Montréal Keenly interested in all the world’s cultures and countercultures, JeanPaul Gaultier has picked up on the current trends and proclaimed the right to be different, and in the process conceived a new kind of fashion in both the way it is made and worn. Through twists, transformations, transgressions and reinterpretations, he not only erases the boundaries between cultures but also the sexes, creating a new androgyny or playing with subverting hypersexualized fashion codes. From Sidewalk to Catwalk: the Fashion World of Jean-Paul Gaultier features more than just fashion, at the Montréal Museum of Fine Arts from June 17 – October 2: unlike the “Costume-Institute”-style Yves Saint-Laurent exhibit from 2008, this street-inspired couturier gets a multi-media treatment in a show that is more than a retrospective, it’s a work of art in itself. Thirty mannequins with animated faces provided by ingenious audiovisual projections are placed throughout the galleries, surprising visitors with their lifelike presence. The magical exhibit features 120 ensembles, along with sketches, videos, photography and music. 38 l GQ Gaultier has a particular affection for the city now hosting his first retrospective. “Montréal was one of the first places to cover my first collection, along with London and Japan,” said the couturier. The artist always felt more at home here, he said at the press conference, pointing to how Québeckers are more fun (than Parisians). The MMFA has published a major monograph on the occasion. Produced under the general editorship of Thierry‐ Maxime Loriot, this magnificent boxed art book includes over fifty interviews with Gaultier’s muses and colleagues, as well as the artists he has created costumes for: Pedro Almodóvar, Catherine Deneuve, Madonna, Helen Mirren, Martin Margiela, Pierre Cardin, Dita Von Teese, Marion Cotillard, Kylie Minogue, Polly Mellen and Tom Ford, to name just a few. The exhibit also led to a new parade in the downtown area called the Pinkarnaval, which opened the outdoor art events of the Just for Laughs Festival. Over 1,600 dancers rehearsed for an entire month to create the giant outdoor celebration dedicated to the fashion world of Jean-Paul Gaultier. www.mmfa.qc.ca/en GQ l 39 40 l GQ GQ l 41 Downtown Accomodation & restaurants Days Inn Montréal 215, boul. René Levesque Est, Montréal, H2X 1N7 514.393.3388 www.daysinnmontreal.ca An elegant and peaceful retreat in the heart of Montréal. Whether its for business or pleasure, everything there will make your stay in Montréal a memorable one. Hôtel La Tour Centre Ville 400, boul. René-Lévesque Ouest, Montréal, H2Z 1V5 514.866.8861 www.hotelcentreville.com Only minutes away from the downtown Montréal business district as well as many cultural events and sports facilities, La Tour Centre-Ville allows you year-round easy access to all your outings and meetings. Hôtel Maritime 1155, rue Guy, Montréal, H3H 2K5 1.800.363.6255 www.hotelmaritime.com The Hotel Maritime Plaza offers elegantly appointed accommodations and gracious amenities at an outstanding value in the heart of downtown Montréal. Hôtel particulier Le Saint Martin 980, boul. De Maisonneuve Ouest, H3A 1M5 514.843.3000 www.lestmartin.com Perfectly located in downtown Montréal’s new found thriving district. Towering over Montréal’s famous Sainte-Catherine Street and Cours Mont-Royal, Le St-Martin Hotel Particulier Montréal is just a three-minute walk to the renowned Place Ville-Marie. Hôtel W 902, rue du Square-Victoria, Montréal, H2Y 2J3 514.395.3100 www.starwoodhotels.com Home in the city’s historic Banque du Canada building transformed into a rich, modern tapestry, W Montréal is close to picturesque Old Montréal and the city’s world-class downtown. Zero 1 Hotel 01 René-Lévesque Blvd. East, Montreal, QC. H2X 3Z5 514.871.9606 1.855.301.0001 www.zero1-mtl.com At the heart of Montréal’s Quartier des spectacles district, in an inspiring, modern, urban environment, ZERO 1 reinvents with casual chic the concept of the downtown hotel reflected in the design and comfort of its 164 rooms and suites. Hôtel Le Prestige 12555, Sherbrooke Est Montréal, Qc H1B 1C8 Sans frais: 1-877-918-5500 Tél: 514.640-5500 [email protected] www.hotelleprestige.com Tucked beside Montréal’s easternmost Parc-Nature de la Pointe-aux-Prairies and next to the Gold Club, this elegant and comfortable hotel has 72 rooms and suites with a/c, free Wifi, continental breakfast incl. Gym and pool. Voisinant le Parc-Nature de la Pointe-aux-Prairies, à proximité du Club de Golf de l’Île de 42 l GQ GQ l 43 Downtown Accomodation & restaurants La Tour Belvédère 2175, boul. de Maisonneuve Ouest, H3H 1L5 514.935.9052 www.tourbelvedere.com Downtown apartment hotel with fully-equipped kitchen, Studio & One bedroom suites with private balconies. Rooftop terrace with indoor pool, sauna, exercise room, High speed Internet , Indoor & outdoor parking . Daily, weekly and monthly rates available. Le Gourmet Burger 1433B, rue Bishop, Montréal, Qc H3G 2E4 514.435.3535 www.legourmetburger.com The mission of Gourmet Burger is to create a perfect burger using the finest ingredients, on a freshly baked bun, using only the freshest vegetables, herbs, mouthwatering sauces. Char-grilled beef, bison, and chicken burgers are the centrepiece for a meal we recommend you try with our sweet potato fries or a gourmet poutine. Resto-Bar Terrasse Brasseur de Montréal [Retour chariot]1485, Ottawa [Retour chariot]Montréal, Qc H3C 1S9 [Retour chariot]Tél. : (514) 788-4505 [email protected] www.brasseursdemontreal.ca Station Lucien L’Allier This micro-brewery stands out for its delicious beer, affordable comfort food menu, relaxed atmosphere and hip outdoor patio. Restaurant Le Taj 2077 Stanley Street, Montreal, QC. H3A 1R7 514.845.9015 www.restaurantletaj.com For all those who have never tried indian cuisine and for its connoisseurs. 44 l GQ GQ l 45 Downtown Interesting places & activities Bell Centre. A sports and cultural complex that is also a place to do business, not to mention the home of the NHL’s Canadiens hockey team. 1909, av. des Canadiens-de-Montréal, H3B 2S2 Info : 514.932.2582 The Canadian Centre for Architecture. 1920, rue Baile, Montréal, H3H 1P6 Info : 514.939.7000 / www.cca.qc.ca Métropolis Live performance and music venue for concerts and events like Black&Blue’s Military Ball. 59, rue Sainte-Catherine Est, Montréal, H2X 1K5 Info : 514.844.3500 Musée d’Art Contemporain de Montréal. The place to be for lovers of contemporary art and performance. 185, rue Sainte-Catherine Ouest, Montréal, H2X 2J1 Info : 514.847.6226 Musée des Beaux-Arts The foremost art museum in Montreal, this year showing The Fashion World of Jean-Paul Gaultier. Du 17 juin au 2 octobre 2011 1380, rue Sherbrooke Ouest, Montréal, H2G 1J5 Info : 514.285.2000 Place des Arts. A public institution serving the entire Québec population, the Société Place des Arts is dedicated to making performing arts available to a wide audience. 175, rue Sainte-Catherine Ouest, Montréal, H2X 1Z8 Info : 514.842.2112 www.laplacedesarts.com Théâtre du Nouveau Monde. The 2010-2011 programme will feature performances (in French) of Michel Tremblay’s À toi pour toujours, ta Marie-Lou. 84, rue Sainte-Catherine Ouest, Montréal, H2X 1Z6 Info: 514.866.8668 Downtown Services Cavalia inc. 5100, rue Hutchison, bureau 300, Montréal, Qc H2V 4A9 866.989.2282 www.cavalia.net Cavalia is a fresh mix of equestrian and performing arts, multimedia and special effects. Often labelled an equestrian ballet, Cavalia is a spectacular and moving tribute to the relationship between men and horses throughout history. La Capoterie 2061, rue Saint-Denis, Montréal, H2X 3K8 514.845.0027 télec. 514.845.4440 www.lacapoterie.net Perfect place for gifts, the sex-shop La Capoterie offers a wide selection of condoms, including the best-selling Japanese condoms! 46 l GQ GQ l 47 The Village The Village Nüvü Bistro-Expériences © Nuvu450 Week-end Twist ©Fondation BBCM The Village that Never Sleeps Montréal’s Gay Village is replete with stories like that of the young girl in Michel Tremblay’s famous musical comedy Demain matin, Montréal m’attend, where the character dreams of being "surrounded by furs and fags." Although the fashions have changed, droves of young men and women from smaller towns move to Montréal in order to openly live their homosexuality, an influx that never ceases to invigorate gay city life, and in turn, develop the Village itself. Like many of the actual villages these young people come from, the gay Village has a lot of the same friendly, welcoming vibe. While many GLBT people eventually meet in bars or through the cultural scene, it’s no surprise that their current stomping ground along Sainte-Catherine East is where the Village sprouted up: the street has long been known for its nightlife and cultural venues, and has been the location of various media outlets since the early 1970s. Today, the Village a vibrant urban attraction, particularly in the summer when the Sainte-Catherine street axis becomes a pedestrian street to allow crowds to enjoy major GLBT events like Pride and Divers/cité, as well as the FIMA and Fetish Weekend, which happens over Labour Day weekend. All year round, the Village is home to a happening nightlife and a wide spectrum of atmosphere and locales. 48 l GQ With its 25-some bars, pubs, dance and nightclubs, the Village is Québec’s foremost gay nightlife mecca. Some of these establishments are legendary institutions, like the Sky Complex, with its pub, nightclub, and roof-top terrasse (with wading pool), has been a must for over 18 years. The complex is in the same building as the former Boîte En-Haut, the first gay bar to open in the Village, which makes it the oldest continuously operated gay hang-out for over 35 years. Parking and Unity II are the two nightclubs that have reigned in popularity for over 10 years. Stereo, the afterhours famous for its awesome sound system, has been a temple of all-night dancing for a mixed hetero, gay, and open-minded crowd for Montrealers and visitors from across the world. Stereo regularly features celebrity DJs from the gay circuit party scene. The leather and denim crowd call l’Aigle Noir or the STUD their second home, while girls who like girls flock to the Drugstore, a more mixed venue. For a drink between friends in a more chill vibe, the Gotha Lounge on Amherst street has a loyal clientele. GQ l 49 The Village 50 l GQ The Village GQ l 51 Mado Lamotte © camwil The Village The area also has plenty of places that keep up Montréal’s reputation as an open-minded city, with its saunas, male strip bars, and of course, cruising grounds. Dotted with dozens of hotels, B&Bs, inns, and restaurants, you can really take advantage of what it has to offer 24/7. With almost 100 cafés and restaurants, visitors will have no trouble finding the atmosphere that suits their taste. You can make a culinary world trip in the area’s eateries, and as far as shopping is concerned, the Village has the gay male basics totally covered. A Window onto Gay Culture 52 l GQ GQ l 53 The Village The Village is also the place where much of gay visual art has emerged in recent years, characterized by an emphasis on the male body and homoeroticism. Zïlon is one of the city’s iconic urban artists, whose mural art of androgynous faces done in graffiti style fill the empty walls of the city. You could recently enjoy his work for a while longer on a building façade at Sainte-Catherine and Montcalm. 54 l GQ GQ l 55 The Village Yvon Goulet is a fixture of the village art scene, with his striking paintings done on recycled political placards, featuring erotic and Village scenes. Besides his male nudes, painter Jean Chainey depicts urban landscapes with architectural and surrealist elements. Joël Provost is a sculptor of the male form as well as a teacher at La Loggia Art & Breakfast (co-owner of La Loggia Art & Breakfast), welcomes you in his Atelier de sculpture du Village on De Maisonneuve Boulevard. Amherst street’s Galerie Zéphyr and Galerie Dentaire often feature gay artists. For August’s festival season, Dentaire is home to exhibits by gay photographers Robert Laliberté and inkedKenny. Also on Amherst street, the Écomusée du fier mondre presents Marc-André Goulet’s exquisite photo exhibit Blanc de mémoire commemorates 30 years of HIV/AIDS struggles, to Sept 16, 2011. 56 l GQ GQ l 57 The Village History, Culture and Heritage on Amherst Street If you want to explore the rich history and heritage of the Village’s underground culture, you simple must explore Amherst street, the North-South artery that connects the Village to Parc Lafontaine. Galleries, antique dealers, and aestheticians (that classic gay métier) are clustered along a street that has become an artery for the neighbour’s quality of life. To discover the area’s industrial past and place in 19th Canadian history, you can’t miss visiting the Écomusée du fier monde, dedicated to this pivotal period in the city’s history. For the pedestrianization of Sainte-Catherine Street, large panels showing the 250-year history of the area have been installed throughout the Village. Places of Interest Vestiges of Montréal’s burlesque and nightlife heyday are to be found along Sainte-Catherine Est, including the Théâtre National, which was founded in 1900 and is still in use. Alys Robi, Rose Ouellette, and the stars of yesteryear have given way to indie bands and music acts from around the world that stop here for Pop Montréal and other events. Next door to the National is the even more historic Ouimétoscope, Montréal’s first cinema, which was in operation until the 1980s. By the by, it was when the National was temporary renamed the Cinéma du Village that the neighbourhood got its nick name “the Village”, in imitation of New York’s West Village. Across from the National, the Beaudry Métro station was the first public building in the world to be branded with the colours of the rainbow 58 l GQ The Village flag. The station’s unusual inclined tunnel escalator ramp has been featured in numerous photo shoots, films, and Michel Tremblay’s Laura Cadieux. Far more than a mere commercial strip, the Village is a district where the gay and lesbian community shows its true colours. If you want to see what living in the area is like, stroll along the adorable rue Sainte-Rose between de la Visitation and Papineau streets, where horse-and-carriage-era town houses and gateways show off some architectural charm. Take a detour to the Saint-Pierre-Apôtre Church and adjacent conference centre, formerly the heart of what was known as the Faubourg Québec. Take a walk down Dalcourt and Lartigue alleys, or amble down Logan or Lafontaine streets, where mansard roofs and heritage trees add a special antique look to the charming street life. Just south of the Village, along the St. Lawrence Seaway, you can visit the Maison du Gouverneur, which was formerly the Pied-ducourant Jailhouse (est. 1836) where the rebels of Papineau’s Patriotes were hanged in 1837-38, and the gigantic Molson Brewery (founded in 1786), all of which are testaments to the rich history of the Faubourg Québec. GQ l 59 The Village Things to do & points of interest Écomusée du fier monde. 2050, rue Amherst, Montréal, H2L 3L9 Info : 514.528.8444 Galerie Dentaire. 1239, rue Amherst, Montréal, H2L 3K9 Info : 514 523-5535 Galerie Zéphyr. An independent contemporary art gallery showing artists from all over. Gay-themed exhibits often shown. In may and june, Zachari Logan and Tatsu. 2112, rue Amherst, Montréal, H2L 3L8 Info : 514 529-9199 Usine C. Interdisciplinary performing arts space for original productions by artists from all over the world. Will be one of the scene of Festival TransAmérique. 1345, av. Lalonde, Montréal, H2L 4N6 Infos : 514 521-4198 KA VIE ART 1410 Beaudry Montréal, Qc H2L 3E5 Tél.: 514.657.3535 www.kavieart.com [email protected] Specialized in locally made art and design for men and women, this inspired boutique is the ideal place to find original, eco-friendly gifts, décor, and fashion at an affordable price. A well-curated selection of well-known and emerging artists and labels. 60 l GQ GQ l 61 The Village Accomodation La Conciergerie 1019, rue Saint-Hubert, Montréal, H2L 3Y3 514.289.9297 www.laconciergerie.ca Near most major points of interest including Old Montréal and the Latin Quarter, from there you easily access the best restaurants, bars, boutiques and of cours the eclectic nightlife. Gîte B&B Absolument Montréal 1790, rue Amherst, Montréal, H2L 3L6 514.223.0017 1.866.360.1351 www.absolumentmontreal.com Generous gourmet breakfasts, a spa, and a garden are special features of this Village B&B rated 4 suns. Only minutes away on foot from major tourist attractions. Gîte B&B Aubergell 1641, rue Amherst, Montréal, H2L 3L4 514.597.0878 Aubergell’s four rooms and one suite offer modern design and lots of features the perfect space for a single traveler, a group of friends. Each room or suite features a television, air conditioning, soundproof walls, and clean comfortable linens. Hôtel Le Roberval 505, boul. René-Lévesque Est, Montréal, H2L 5B6 514.286.5215 1.877.552.2992 www.leroberval.com In the heart of the action, whether you’re travelling for business or leisure! Rooms and studios furnished with fully equipped kitchenette allow to combine the services of a hotel to the feeling of independence. Hôtel Les Suites Labelle 1205, Labelle, Montréal, H2L 4C1 514.840.1151 www.hotellabelle.com The hotel Les Suites Labelle has become a reference in affordable lodging, ideally located in the heart of Montréal downtown’s cultural district, perfect for leisure as well as business travellers. Hôtel Sainte-Catherine 1674, Ste-Catherine Est, Montréal, H2L 2J4 514.527.4440 www.stecatherinehotel.com Hôtel Ste-Catherine welcomes you to our establishment where tranquility, quality and comfort prevail. Located in the heart of downtown and near all tourist attractions. 62 l GQ GQ l 63 The Village Accomodation Gîte B&B Le Saint-Christophe Guest House 1597, rue Saint-Christophe, Montréal, H2L 3W7 514.527.8794 www.stchristophe.com You’ll be greeted with a smile at the Ste-Christophe Guest House. This charming historic house has been completely renovated to offer the luxury of modern convenience with the warmth and charm of yesteryear. Gîte B&B NuZone 1729, rue Saint-Hubert, Montréal, H2L 3Z1 514.524.5292 A B&B for gay men, right in the centre of Montréal between the Village and the Latin Quarter, and near to the Old Port. Their mission is to over a smoke-free, naturist optional environment that’s peaceful, comfortable and down to earth. Gîte B&B Turquoise 1579, rue Alexandre-Desève, Montréal, H2L 2V7 514.523.9943 www.turquoisebb.com Complexe Bourbon 1578 Rue Sainte-Catherine Est, Montréal, H2L 2H9 514.523.4679 www.clubhotelmontreal.com The Club Hotel is the place to be. For eating, drinking, going out, relaxing, everything is possible at the Club Hotel. The hotel, restaurants, bars, patios and atmosphere await you for unforgettable moments. Gîte B&B Le Cartier 1219, rue Cartier, Montréal,H2K 4C4 514.917.1829 1.877.524.0495 www.bblecartier.com Only steps away from Papineau métro in the Gay Village and adjacent to downtown, you'll feel right at home in this B&B. Tucked beside the JacquesCartier Bridge, it's the perfect place for a successful get-away. 64 l GQ GQ l 65 The Village Restaurants Boulangerie La Mie Matinale 1371, rue Sainte-Catherine Est, Montréal, H2L 2H7 514.529.5656 French bakery, pastry shop & café and a unique European atmosphere where you are welcomed by the owners Régis & Didier. Homemade and daily fresh pastries, breads and croissants. This café is a shrine to late gay icon and French singer Dalida. Coo Rouge 1844, rue Amherst, Montréal, H2L 3L6 514.522.4114 www.coorouge.com If you are looking to savour a sumptuous bistro meal, go for brunch, or just spend and evening amongst friends, in an atmosphere both hip and a bit romantic, Coo Rouge, in the heart of Montreal`s gay village, should be at the top of your list. Java U- Welcomes You In the heart of the Gay - Village ! 1259 Saint-Catherine est / Metro Beaudry 514.303.8544 www.javauvillage.com Offer your self a Delightful – Breakfast , Mon To Fri, 6:30-am / 11:30 am & Weekends- 6:30 am / 3:00 pm. Or Enjoy our gourmet sandwiches & Personalized Salad’s made Fresh & the way you want it ! Have A- fresh coffee or a Cool beverage on two great terrasses . Java U is your gourmet cafeteria all year long. Visit us to get a first hand Experience. La Piazzetta 1101, rue Sainte-Catherine Est, Montréal, H2L 2G5 514.526.2244 www.lapiazzetta.ca Square pizzas thin crust of the nice restaurant chain Piazzetta knew how to make tip over the heart of the Quebeckers. Nice atmosphere and colored menu. Le Planète Inc 1451, rue Sainte-Catherine Est, Montréal, H2L 2H9 514.528.6953 Established in 1994, Le Planète is as aptly namedas ever. The dishes emerging from its kitchen are still bursting with culinary tastes inspired by the four corners of the globe, reflecting Mother Earth’s most excellent bounty. Restaurant L’Exception 1200, rue Saint-Hubert, Montreal, QC, H2L 3Y7 514.282.1282 www.exceptionresto.com [email protected] Montreal is known for its tiny but fantastic eateries you wouldn’t find if you weren’t looking for them, and this restaurant is no exception. 66 l GQ GQ l 67 The Village Services Barbier Mohawk 1305 av. Papineau, Montréal, H2K 4H3 514.524.7582 Boutique Mobilier moderne 20e siècle 1023, rue Ontario Est, Montréal, H2L 1P8 514.575.0533 This unique place is worth the detour to find a selection of the most beautiful pieces of furniture from the 20e century designers. Boutique OSEZ 1320 rue Wolfe, Montréal, H2L 3J3 514.521.2004 [email protected] In the heart of the gay Village, this men’s wear shop will delight you with its collection of trendy brands and clothes. MARIAGE A VOTRE IMAGE Rév. Johanne Bérubé 514.493.6596 418.875.1059 418.932.6399 [email protected] www.mariageavotreimage.com Working as a registered pastor for over 15 years with Québec’s Ministère de la famille, Johanne Bérubé is certified to perform civil unions, weddings, engagements, baptisms and funerals. She’ll provide a legal ceremony tailored to your needs (inter-denominational). Masso 1452 514.654.1070 www.masso1452.com Robert, a professional masseur, provides different types of massages to ease body pains, stimulate bloodstream, etc. 68 l GQ GQ l 69 The Village Services Montréal Moderne 1851, rue Amherst, Montréal, H2L 3L4 514.293.7903 Physotech Spa concept 1475, rue Amherst, Montréal, H2L 3L2 514.527.7587 www.physotech.com An urban spa recently refitted in new premises located in the middle of the Gay Village. All the services for over 25 years! Studio de coiffure Michel-Ange 1276 Ste Catherine E, Montréal, QC H2L 2H2 514.527.2762 [email protected] Lemon Cree Studio Prestige 1331A Ste-Catherine 2e étage 514.567.9887 www.lemoncree.com [email protected] Ce centre de conditionnement physique met l’emphase sur le bien-être du corps et de l’esprit grâce à une méthode s’inspirant du pilâtes et du cardio traditionnel. Les ateliers de remise en forme se font dans une ambiance amicale et invitante pour tous. The Village Bars Bar Aigle Noir 1315, rue Sainte-Catherine Est, Montréal, H2L 2H4 514.529.0040 Ouvert dès 8 h jusqu’à 3 h. Le bar cuir, fétichiste et rock de Montréal. Montreal’s leather, fetish and rock bar. Open from 8 am to 3 am. * Bar le Cocktail 1669, rue Sainte-Catherine Est, Montréal, H2L 2J5 514.597.0814 Clubbar-lounge ouvert dès 8 h. Karaoké dimanche-mercredi dès 21 h. Soirée personnificateur le jeudi, pianiste le vendredi, chanteuse et pianiste le samedi, pianiste le dimanche de 5 à 9. Tous les jours 5 à 9. Club-bar-lounge open from 8 am. Several activities every day. * Bar Stock & Lounge 1171, rue Sainte-Catherine Est, Montréal, H2L 2G8 514.842.1336 Danseurs différents âges. Mixed aged dancers. * Bar Taboo 1950, boul. De Maisonneuve Est, Montréal, H2K 2C8 514.597.0010 Jeunes danseurs nus. Ouvert dès 19 h. Young nude dancers. Open from 7 pm. * Cabaret Mado 1115, rue Sainte-Catherine Est, Montréal, H2L 2G6 514.525.7566 Spectacles drag. Drag shows. * Campus 1111, rue Sainte-Catherine Est, Montréal, H2L 2G6 514.526.9867 Danseurs différents âges. Mixed aged dancers. * Circus 439 St Andre, Montréal, H2L 3T4 514.844.3626 Afterhours, mixte. After hours, mixed crowd. * Citibar 1603, rue Ontario Est, Montréal, H2L 1S6 514.525.4251 * Club Date 1218, rue Sainte-Catherine Est, Montréal, H2L 2G9 514.521.1242 Bar, karaoké. * Gotha 1641, rue Amherst, Montréal, H2L 3L4 514.526.1270 Salon-bar-lounge. Loungebar. * La Relaxe 1309, rue Sainte-Catherine Est Montréal, 514.523.0578 Bar clientèle variée. Mixed crowd. * Le Drugstore 1366, rue Sainte-Catherine Est, Montréal, H2L 2H6 514.524.1960 8 bars et boutiques. Clientèle mixte. 8 bars and small shops. Mixed crowd. * Le Parking 1296, rue Amherst, Montréal, , H2L 3K8 514.282.1199 www.parkingbar.com Disco, cuir, denim, clientèle variée. Leather, denim, mixed crowd. * SKY Pub & Club 1474, rue Sainte-Catherine Est Montréal, , H2L 2J1 514.529.6969 www.complexesky.com * Stereo 858, rue Sainte-Catherine Est, Montréal, , H2L 2E3 514.286.0325 www.stereo-nightclub.com After-hours, hétéros et gais. After-hours, gay and straight crowd. * Stud 1812, rue Sainte-Catherine Est, Montréal, , H2K 2H3 514.598.8243 www.studbar. com Cruising bar 25 ans +, piste de danse, terrasse. Ouvert de 10 h à 3 h. Un bar d’hommes où les hommes aiment les hommes. Cruising bar 25 years old +, dance, terrace. Open 10 am to 3 am. * Taverne Normandie 1295, rue Amherst, Montréal, , H2L 3K9 514.522.2766 * Taverne Rocky 1673, rue Sainte-Catherine Est, Montréal, , H2L 2J5 514.521.7865 Clientèle mature.Mature men. * Tools Club 1592, rue Sainte-Catherine Est, Montréal, , H2L 2J2 www.tools-club.com Disco et pop. Playroom. Disco and pop. * Unity 1400, rue Montcalm (angle Sainte-Catherine E.), Montréal, 514.523.4429 www.clubunitymontreal.com Danse, jeunes. Dance club, young crowd. 72 l GQ GQ l 73 The Plateau Mont-Royal The Plateau Mont-Royal Architecture de Montréal © Commission canadienne du tourisme, Pierre St-Jacques Terrasse de la rue Saint-Denis © Tourisme Montréal, Stéphan Poulin The Plateau Mont-Royal has changed significantly since Michel Tremblay wrote his gritty Chroniques du Plateau stories thirty years ago. This formerly work-class area has become a very trendy neighbourhood, counting amongst its inhabitants the largest concentration of artists in Canada. Densely populated, but on a human scale, the Plateau has many elements that are typical of early 20th-century urban areas; it is known for its 3-story buildings, winding 74 l GQ exterior staircases and heritage tree-lined streets. Situated just north-east of the downtown core, at the foot of Mount Royal, edged by Parc Lafontaine to the east, it is a very urban area where you can do your shopping on foot and enjoy innumerable little bars and cafés. Furthermore, it is the gathering place for young people and intellectuals by virtue of its being the location of the best life music shows, theatres and performance venues. GQ l 75 Escaliers extérieurs © Tourisme Montréal, Stéphan Poulin The Plateau Mont-Royal Where gays and lesbians meet Before the gay community migrated to the Village and the Plateau became the trendy place it is now, the lesbian community would rally in the many lesbian bars on rue Saint-Denis, to the extent that the ladies christened it rue “Sainte-Denise”! You could find feminist, gay, and lesbian bookstores, as well as numerous establishments owned and operated by lesbians. The expansion of the Village to include the area just south of Parc Lafontaine meant that gays started to live more and more on the Plateau as well, making this the place where gays and lesbians rub elbows more than anywhere else in the Montréal. Statistically speaking, the Plateau is the borough where the most gays and lesbians actually live. Unlike the Village, the Plateau’s gays and lesbians are less flamboyant and blend into their community more seamlessly. Aside from its three saunas, the area has few avowed gay establishments, even if that’s where the most compelling nightlife is located outside the Village. You’ll find a number of bed & breakfasts, cafés, restaurants, and boutiques that are gay-friendly and often owned and operated by gays or lesbians. And if you want to make sure you meet Plateau gays, go for a stroll on the southeast corner of the Parc Lafontaine pond, the neighbourhood’s ultimate “gay beach”. 76 l GQ GQ l 77 The Plateau Mont-Royal Things to do & points of interest The Plateau Mont-Royal Gîte B&B au Piano Blanc 4440, rue Berri, Montréal, H2J 2R1 514.845.0315 Guesthouse and B & B, in the heart of cultural district Plateau Mont Royal. Discount for 10% for 7 days or more. Delicious breakfast. Le Bathroom 4137 rue Saint-Denis, Montréal, Qc H2W 2M7 514.842.6564 www.lebathroom.com This saline isolation bath experience provides a feeling of weightlessness for the body and well-being for the mind. Located in the heart of the Plateau, try it out alone, or as a couple. David Rancourt, Jamie Wright et José Navas dans Anatomies de Navas, présenté à l’Agora de la danse en 2007 © Valérie Simmons Agora de la danse. A dance performance space that promotes contemporary dance from Montréal and allows artists from here and elsewhere to engage in work under the best possible conditions. 840, rue Cherrier, Montréal, H2L 1H6 Info : 514.525.1500 Cinéma Parallèle. An independent cinema showing only “auteur” films of the daring and avant-garde variety. Cinema in its purest form, with a focus on new voices. 3536, boul. Saint-Laurent, Montréal, H2X 2T6 Info : 514.847.2206 ESPACE GO. This theatre presents works that are concerned with social transformation and the understanding of modern times. 4890, boul. Saint-Laurent, Montréal, H2T 1R5 Info : 514.845.4890 Théâtre d’Aujourd’hui. This theatre is devoted exclusively to the creation, production and dissemination of Québécois & French Canadian dramatic works. New winter season started with Michel Marc Bouchard’s new play Tom à la ferme. Le Magnolia 1125, rue Rachel, Montréal, Québec, H2J 2J6 514.524.5818 www.lemagnolia.ca [email protected] The Magnolia is a gorgeous victorian B&B facing Lafontaine Park, in Montreal’s renowned Plateau Mont-Royal district. Gîte B&B Shézelles 4272, rue Berri, Montréal, H2J 2P8 514.849.8694 A magical setting with a charming atmosphere, this B&B has birchwood floors and cedar walls throughout. Offering three large rooms and a splendid suite. Gîte Ma’am Bolduc 4351, av. De Lorimier, Montréal, H2H 2B2 514.527.3884 www.mambolduc.com Inn and restaurant on the plateau with the best poutine in Montréal. Homemade hamburgers, an eclectic atmosphere, and outdoor patio in the summer Théâtre de Quat’sous. Founded in 1955, the Quat’Sous’s mandate is to be a contemporary francophone theatre with a global awareness and openness. 100, av. des Pins Est, Montréal, H2W 1N7 Info : 514.845.7277 Théâtre du Rideau Vert. The Théâtre du Rideau Vert is the premier professional francophone theatre in the country with a diverse programme. For 2010 2011 : TREIZE À TABLE from november 2 th to december 4 th 2010, a play from Marc-Gilbert Sauvajon, MADAME LOUIS 14 from mars 29 th to april 30 th 2011, A text from Lorraine Pintal. 4664, rue Saint-Denis, Montréal, H2J 1T1 Info : 514.844.1793 78 l GQ GQ l 79 The Plateau Mont-Royal Restaurants Artigiani Pizzeria 4657, rue Saint-Denis, Montréal, H2J 2L5 514.564.5842 514.564.5843 [email protected] Come taste the best oven-baked pizza in Montréal at this pizzeria and gourmet food store. Artigiani is the perfect fusion of traditional Italian and contemporary cuisine, a delicious blend of generations. Crêpanita 1576, ave. Mont-Royal Est, Montréal, H2L 1Z2 514.524.5535 www.crepanita.com Sweet and savoury crêpes, paninis and salads: this is a little café with big flavour. Delivery available. La Croissanterie Figaro 5200, rue Hutchison, Outremont, H2V 4B3 514.278.6567 www.lacroissanteriefigaro.com This Outremont croissanterie is infused with the aroma of an out of the way café from 1920s Paris. Come taste the fresh croissants, breakfasts, and table d’hôte menu in the Figaro’s enchanting art-nouveau décor. Le Piton de la Fournaise 835, ave. Duluth Est, Montréal, H2L 1B3 514.526.3936 www.restolepiton.com All the delights of the Île de la Réunion await you in a tropical ambiance. Enjoy their mouth-watering menu of pork, fish, and sautés. Le point G 1266, ave. Mont-Royal Est, Montréal h2J 1Y4 514.750.7515 www.boutiquepointg.com Waffles, ice cream and so much more await you at Le point G. Winner of the Fourchette d’or (Golden Fork) for the best macaron in Montréal. Plein Sud 222, ave, Mont-Royal Est, Montréal, H2T 1P3 514.510.6234 www.pleinsud-restaurant.com All of the classic dishes from the South of France, served in a friendly and cosy atmosphere. Table d’hôte (three-course) menu available every night. Resto La Banquise 994, rue Rachel Est. Montréal, H2J 2J3 514.525.2415 514.525.5996 [email protected] Since 1968, la Banquise has been the place for poutine in Montréal, with 25 different kinds of poutine and locally brewed beer on tap. With its adorable outdoor patio, you’ll relish the food and atmosphere 24hrs/day! 80 l GQ GQ l 81 The Plateau Mont-Royal Restaurants Caférico 969, rue Rachel Est, Montréal, Qc H2J 2J4 514.529.1321 www.caferico.qc.ca Café Rico has been a fixture of the Plateau Mont-Royal for over 2 years, as Québec’s first 100% fair trade, organic coffee roaster. Stop by to try one of their diverse selection of freshly roasted beans, organic products in bulk, or for lunch, check out the newly opened adjoining eatery Le Petit Rico. L’Assommoir 112, rue Bernard Ouest, Montréal, H2T 2K1 / 211, Notre Dame Ouest, H2Y 1T4 514.272.0777 www.assommoir.ca Far from what Émile Zola imagined in his novel of the same name, l’Assomoir is a trendy and welcoming bar with an urban vibe. The menu is a fresh and effervescent selection of ceviches, steaks, tapas, fresh fish, and 250 cocktails. Both Assomoir locations are well located in the Mile End and Old Port. Les Deux Gamins 170, Prince Arthur Est, Montréal, H2X 3D7 514.288.3389 www.lesdeuxgaminsmontreal.com An experience worthy of the streets of Paris. Classic cuisine made with local ingredients in season, fresh from the market, complemented by an impressive list of imported wines. Restaurant Au Chaud Lapin 1279, av. Mont-Royal Est, Montréal, Québec, H2J 1Y4 514.522.2379 www.auchaudlapin.ca For intimate gatherings, as well as festive or corporate, restaurant Au Chaud Lapin, located in the heart of Plateau Mont-Royal goes off the beaten track. Restaurant Buona Forchetta 2407 Mont-Royal Est , Montreal, QC H2H 1L2 514.521.6766 www.buonaforchetta.ca This gourmet Italian resto on the plateau specializes in grilled meats and classic pastas served with a variety of delicious sauces, all cooked with 100% cocoa butter (Mycryo). No frying, no cholesterol, just the pure flavour of the ingredients cooked to perfection. Restaurant Commensal 1720, rue Saint Denis, Montréal, Qc H2X 3K6 514.845.2627 www.commensal.com Smack-dab in the middle of the bustling Quartier Latin, this vegetarian resto is the perfect place to meet friends or grab a healthy lunch on the go. Spread out of 3 floors, you’re sure to enjoy the hidden-away “Plateau” feel as well as the savoury vegetarian and vegan buffet fare with countless salads and hot dishes. 82 l GQ GQ l 83 Hochelaga - Maisonneuve HoMa! Oh my ! Hochelaga - Maisonneuve Services Hairyfur Daycare 4255 A, Frontenac St., Montréal, Québec, H2H 2M4 514.659.8541 www.lepoilauxpattes.com An educative animal daycare with animal health technician on site who offer during the day a large playground and spacious lofts. Professional and respectful guardians will fulfill your cat or dog needs with superior cares at low prices. Hairfur Daycare will simplify your trip for a day, a week or even a month. Parc olympique / Hochelaga-Maisonneuve © Régie des installations olympiques Located just east of the Village, the Hochelaga-Maisonneuve (or “HoMa”) neighbourhood is becoming more and more popular for the gay community. A little further away from downtown, this “gaybourhood” resembles the Plateau Mont-Royal, which was built in the same period, with the main difference being that HoMa has stayed closer to its working class roots. The Hochelaga neighbourhood, just east of the Village, is a formerly working class and industrial zone that is undergoing constant metamorphosis. The cute little shops that line Place Valois on Rue Ontario are but one sign of change and renewal. Many gays have chosen to make their home on the west end of Hochelaga, which is by walking distance from the Village. Originally built as a kind of French-speaking Westmount east of what was Montréal at the end of the 19th century, the Maisonneuve neighbourhood has retained many lovely remnants of this bygone era The grand neoclassical façades of the Morgan and Pie-IX avenues and the utterly charming Marché Maisonneuve, the neighbourhood’s public market, reveal the historic grandeur of the area. Lording over it all is the ornate Château Dufresne on Sherbrooke Street, now an art museum. The Maisonneuve neighbourhood was completely transformed by the construction of the Olympic Stadium for the 1976 Games. Even now, over 30 years later, visitors to the area are still struck by the futuristic Stadium and its sweeping diagonal tower or “mast”, which offers impeccable views from the top. The Biodôme, Botanical Gardens, and the Parc Maisonneuve, located just north of the Parc Olympique, are enjoyed by thousands of visitors each year. 84 l GQ GQ l 85 Hochelaga - Maisonneuve Things to do & points of interest Biodôme de Montréal 4777, av. Pierre-De Coubertin, H1V 3N7 514.868.3000 www2.ville.montreal.qc.ca/biodome An unique museum in the world where five ecosystems are recreated: Arctic, the laurentienne forest , the marine St. Lawrence and the rain forest. Château Dufresne 2929, av. Jeanne-d’Arc, H1W 3W2 514.259.9201 www.chateaudufresne.com By its collections and exhibitions, the Château Dufresne museum seeks, collects and interprets as well the working history as upper-class, the industrial inheritance, visual and decorative arts of the beginning of the XXe century of the district, Montreal and Canada. Jardin botanique de Montréal 4101, rue Sherbrooke Est, H1X 2B2 514.872.1400 www2.ville.montreal.qc.ca/jardin With its collection of 22 000 species and cultivars of plants, its 10 greenhouses of exhibition, its around thirty thematic gardens, iis research team and its programs of animation, the Jardin Botanique of Montreal is classified among the most important and the most beautiful botanical gardens of the world. Parc Olympique 4141, av. Pierre-De Coubertin, H1V 514.252.4141 Conceived for the olympics of 1976, its construction includes the Tower, the Stage (Stadium), the Sports center, the tourist Hall, the outside areas. 514.251.8817 Hochelaga - Maisonneuve Restaurants Restaurant Le Valois 25, Place Simon Valois, Montréal, H1W 0A6 514.528.0202 téléc.:514.528.4366 www.levalois.ca Located in the heart of Montréal’s Hochelage-Maisonneuve district on the promenade Ontario, Le Valois offers a fresh take on the classic french brasserie. You will be served in a warm atmosphere, a harmonious mix of Art Deco with rich coloured wood and glass. Restaurant Cabotins 4821, rue Sainte-Catherine est 514.251.8817 With humour, this restaurant has been set in a former men’s clothing shop. Both menu and décor have been adapted to the previous use of the space. 86 l GQ GQ l 87 88 l GQ GQ l 89 Longueuil & la Montérégie © racineur Located east of the St. Lawrence River, Montérégie spans an area from the American border to the south to Lac Saint-Pierre in the north. With Longueuil and the South Shore suburbs as its major urban centres, Montérégie’s 1.4 million inhabitants make it the second most populous region in Québec. It takes its name from the Monteregian Hills, which are all located in this area, with the exception of their namesake, Mount Royal. Crisscrossed by a number of major waterways, namely the languid Richelieu and the Yamaska River, the region contains some of Québec’s most stunning farmland, which is nestled around the cities and towns of Montérégie. Longueuil Longueuil is the main city of the Montérégie region east of the St. Lawrence River, which separates it from Montréal. The city was founded over 350 years ago by Charles LeMoyne, a wealthy French merchant from Montréal, whose famous sons Pierre LeMoyne d’Iberville and Jean-Baptiste Le Moyne de Bienville took an active part in French colonial expansion in North America, founding Louisiana and New Orleans,respectively. Facing Montréal’s downtown across the water, the South Shore’s many suburbs have flourished over the last 50 years. Vieux-Longueuil, the city’s version of Old Montréal, still offers a charming ambiance for pedestrians. Getting there from the Village is a matter of walking or biking across the JacquesCartier Bridge. Moreover, many gays who favour the quiet suburbs to busy city life have settled there over the years. With over 230 000 inhabitants, Longueuil has not one but two saunas catering to a gay clientele coming from the whole region. 90 l GQ Longueuil & la Montérégie Mont Saint-Hilaire © -AX- Outlying Areas of Montérégie Away from Montréal’s suburbs and towns, the Richelieu Valley is one of the oldest agricultural areas in Québec, and is really worth the detour. Following the shores of the river, you walk in the footsteps of the famous Patriots, who fought for Québec freedom and independence in the revolt of 1837-38. Halfway between Montréal and Sherbrooke, Granby is the second largest city in the region. A few kilometres from Granby, the naturist lodge, Bain de Nature, has been welcoming the gay community for over 25 years, a highly recommended place to stop to appreciate the calm of the countryside. Ski Bromont is one of the most popular ski resorts for Montrealers, only a few kms from Granby. Granby Zoo is the largest zoo in Québec. In this region, which also benefits from a milder winter thanks to warm winds from the Atlantic that freshen the Appalachians, we can also find most of the vineyards of Québec, on the wine route. Epicurians will want to discover these exotic Québec wines. Largest cities: Longueuil (pop. 233 000), Saint-Jean-sur-Richelieu (pop. 90 000), Brossard (pop. 76 000). GQ l 91 Longueuil & la Montérégie Accomodation Longueuil & La Montérégie Auberge Relais 4 Saisons Inn 579, rue Bord-de-l’eau Sud, Noyan, J0J 1B0 450.294.2677 1.877.294.2677 www.au4saisons.com Hostel build in 1936 completely renovated while retaining its original character, situated in the countryside on the banks of beautiful Lake Champlain (water activities available). Accommodation services, catering, recreation, dance, and marina packages are offered. Chalets à louer.ca / Globe-trotter marketing 1380, rue Dalaire, Saint-Hyacinthe, Qc J2S 9A2 514.954.8965 or 418.686.5465 www.chaletsalouer.ca Over 1,876 cottages for rent and 101 cottages for sale in Canada, the US and Mexico! www.chaletsalouer.ca is the ultimate web resource to find the perfect cottage to rent for your vacation anywhere in Québec. You can even contact the owners directly with no middle man! Auberge West Brome 128, route 139, West Brome, Qc J0E 2P0 1.888.902.7663 450.266.7552 www.awb.ca Located only an hour from Montréal in the undulating hills of the Eastern Townships, the Spa West Brome is a modern therapeutic spa that offers the allure of a country inn with the added attraction of fine dining inspired by local and regional produce. Manoir Lac St-François 1529, Route 132, Saint-Anicet, J0S 1M0 450.264.5550 www.manoirlacstfrancois.com Atop a hill with romantic sunsets to dream about the sea. A chapel surrounded by majestic windows, three banquet rooms, a spa, restaurant, a lounge and pub. Au Coeur de mon Verger 551 Chemin Covey Hill, Havelock, Qc J0S 2C0 450.247.2785 www.aucoeurdemonverger.com There is no better way to enjoy the natural beauty of the Montérégie by paying a visit to Au Cœur de Mon Verger. Step, climb and zip line your way through their Treego course for a fantastic and fun journey through the boreal forest from above. Open end of June to end of October. Motel Grande-Île 1215, boul. Mgr.-Langlois, Grande-Île, J6S 1C1 450.373.9080 www.motelgrande-ile.com On Highway 20, exit 14 you will find a motel with various facilities available: telephone, internet and well equipped guest rooms. Gîte Le Point de Vue 135 ch. Bourget, Rigaud, Qc J0P 1P0 Tél. : 514 927-6468 Téléc. : 450 451-0244 [email protected] www.lepointdevue.net Perched on the summit of Mont-Rigaud on the South Shore, surrounded by a patch of green between earth and sky, this B&B's view will blow you away. With superior comforts earning it a 4-sun rating, you'll love the generous breakfasts and pastoral déco 92 l GQ GQ l 93 Montérégie Things to do & points of interest Sauna 1286 1286, chemin Chambly, Longueuil, J4J 3W6 450.677.1286 / www.1286.ca Sauna 1286 welcomes you 24/24. Sauna, showers, tub, video rooms, lockers. The ideal meeting place for men from all around Sauna 3481 3481 Montée St-Hubert,St-Hubert 450) 462-3481 [email protected] www.sauna3481.ca Sauna 3481 is the only sauna to offer a steam sauna (hammam) in excess of all the others services offered. Copains Gourmands Restaurant 352 rue Guillaume (angle St-Jean), Longueuil, Qc J4H 1S4 450.928.1433 www.copainsgourmands.com French cuisine, local produce, international inspirations and gourmet flair are given special attention at chef Jean-François Hogue and partner Éric’s charming Old Longueuil eatery. Domaine De Lavoie 100, rang de la Montagne, Rougemont, Qc J0L 1M0[Retour chariot]Tél : 450 469-389 [email protected] www.de-lavoie.com This exceptional vineyard makes red & white wine as well as sparkling and ice ciders. Come taste the flavours of Québec (and pick your own!) only 30 min from Montréal. Restaurant l'Incrédule 288, rue St-Charles Ouest Vieux Longueuil, Qc J4H 1H3 Tel. : 450.674.0946 [email protected] www.lincredule.ca Located in the heart of Old Longueuil, l'Incrédule is a contemporary bistro that combines sophistication and simplicity with a warm ambiance and attentive service. The French bistro-inspired menu will keep you coming back for more. 94 l GQ GQ l 95 C’est la chanson que je nous chante, Serons-nous deux vieilles amantes ? Resterons-nous tendres complices De mes manies, de tes caprices Dans le secret d’une maison, Le château fort de nos saisons, Où je fredonne un air ancien ? Cet été je ferai un jardin C’est la chanson que je nous chante, Serons-nous deux vieilles amantes Descendant lentement le temps, Qui s’arrêtent de temps en temps ? Tu cherches l’ombre, moi le soleil Les gens diront “Voyez les vieilles Qui sont ensemble depuis toujours Et qui mourront le même jour” L’été, quand il fait beau soleil, Je vois souvent passer deux vieilles Qui sont ensemble depuis toujours Qui partiront, qui partiront, Qui partiront le même jour. Abbaye Saint-Benoît © Stéphane Lemire L’été, quand il fait beau soleil, Je vois souvent passer deux vieilles Qui marchent en se tenant le bras, Elles s’arrêtent à tous les dix pas Quand j’entends leur éclat de rire J’ai un peu moins peur de vieillir In the garden of Clémence DesRochers In 1980, singer and songwriter Clémence Desrochers was the first Québec musician to speak of lesbian love with her song Deux Vieilles (‘’Two old women’’). The daughter of poet Alfred DesRochers, Clémence DesRochers is a multidisciplinary artist, singer, actress, and comedian whose charisma and humanity have long won over the Québec public. From the age of 17, she was part of Paul Buissonneau’s La Roulotte, before she became famous for a series of roles for Radio-Canada. In 1969, she staged the musical Les Girls, along with Paule Bayard, Louise Latraverse, Diane Dufresne and Chantal Renaud. And she has been since then always concerned with women issues in our society. After being part of dozens of comedy, theatre, and films as actress and director, after winning many awards showing appreciation from her audience and peers, Clémence Desrochers was made a Knight of the Ordre National du Québec in 2001. After retiring from the stage in 2008, she received the Governor General's Award for performing arts in 2009, and was decorated with the Order of Canada in 2010. Unsurprisingly, her rare stage appearances from the last 3 years have sold out months in advance. 96 l GQ GQ l 97 Eastern Townships The quaint university town of Sherbrooke, known as the “Queen” of the Townships, has a strong New England Loyalist tradition (exiles from the American Revolution) melded with Québec culture. Eastern Townships Accomodation At over 150km from Montréal, Sherbrooke has been able to develop its own lesbian and gay scene. The cute little OtreZone pub is a favourite haunt of local gays and lesbians. In every corner of the Eastern Townships, Victorian manor houses have been converted into B&Bs and inns that offer hospitality imbued with the history and culture of the country. Mount Orford Park is a National Park perfectly suited for a long range of outdoor activities all year round, only a few kilometres from Sherbrooke. With popular ski resorts and lakes ideal for water sports, it is known as cottage country for many Montrealers. You can enjoy the Véloroute des Cantons, a network of 11 scenic trails or the Route des Sommets, where you can go horse-back riding in the forest from one of numerous stables. Kayaking is also a major attraction, taking advantage of the region’s countless calm waterways. The Eastern Townships is an outdoor adventure paradise. Lake Memphrémagog, lac Mégantic, lac Aylmer, lac Massawippi: all summer long, kayaks, canoes, sailboats and water-skis criss-cross these majestic lakes that even host swimming competitions and are among the most popular spots of the region. Is there anything that says “vacation” more than diving head first into the soft clean fresh water of a country lake? For Gourmets The Eastern Townships are also known for the wineries that bask in the region’s milder climate, provided by the more temperate Atlantic winds as they meet the Appalachian Mountains. Whether you’re exploring them on by hike, bike, or car, the byways and high ways of the Townships guarantee some tasty discoveries. The Route des Vins (Winery Route) stretches over 140 km, with pastoral roads, vineyards, country inns, cider orchards and animal farms. The foodie tourist will find something to satisfy their appetite and their curiosity. When it comes to haute cuisine and excellent chefs, the Townships have them in spades, whether it’s on land, rail, or boat! Looking for a taste of something different? Enjoy the immersive experience of the Orford Express, a tourist train where the beauty of the scenery is matched only by the flavours created exclusively by their master chef. Largest cities: Sherbrooke, population 150,000; Granby, population 60,000 98 l GQ GQ l 99 Eastern Townships Accomodation Auberge aux deux Pères 680, chemin Des Pères, Magog, J1X 0P9 819.769.3115 514.616.3114 www.audeuxperes.com Unequalled view looking onto Lake Memphémagog, welcoming staff, four large rooms with private bathrooms, and a heated swimming pool. Auberge Spa Le Madrigal 46, boul. de Bromont, Bromont, J2L 2K3 1.877.534.3588 450.534.3588 www.lemadrigal.ca In a dynamic and picturesque environment. Picturesque and luxurious accommodations with spa, art gallery, meeting room and luxury suites. Au chant du Coq 2387, chemin du Parc, Orford, J1X 7A2 819.843.2247 www.chantducoq.com Bed and Breakfast rated 4 stars by the CITQ for its superior comfort, superb facilities and range of services. Bain de Nature 127, rue Lussier, Saint-Alphonse de Granby, J0E 2A0 450.375.4765 www.baindenature.ca The luxury and comfort of Bain de Nature lie in its simplicity. Gourmet dinners served in a familial atmosphere. On the terrace, enjoy a large whirlpool and a deep tissue massage. Au Manoir de la rue Merry 92, rue Merry Sud, Magog, Qc J1X 3L3 819868.1860 1.800.450.1860 www.manoirmerry.com Charmante demeure ancestrale, vous reçoit dans le décor chaleureux de ses meubles d’époque. Vos hôtes, Dominique et Yves, discrets et attentionnés, auront plaisir à vous accueillir et prendre soin de vous. À deux pas du centre100 l GQ GQ l 101 ville de Magog, du Lac Memphrémagog et de la Pointe Merry, venez vous ressourcer et profiter des beautés des Cantons de l’Est au fil des saisons. Gîte École Buissonnière 1685, Chemin Saint Armand, Saint Armand, JOJ 1T0 450.248.0260 www.giteecolebuissonniere.com Overlooking the scenic Mont Pinnacle in Saint Armand, at the heart of the wine district, this converted country school house has been magnificently restored as an historic bed & breakfast. Hôtel Saint Martin Bromont 111 blvd. du Carrefour, Bromont, J2L 3L1 450.534.0044 1.866.355.0044 www.lestmartinbromont.com There’s no better place to enjoy the quaint landscape of Bromont than this Hotel, which looks out over the outskirts of the town. A boutique hotel with 70 rooms and suites, you’ll love its unparalleled comforts, quietude, and the distinguished interiors of the St-Martin Bromont. 102 l GQ GQ l 103 Eastern Townships Accomodation & services Le Relais des Mésanges 148 route 112 Dudswell, J0B 1G0 1.819.884.1232 1.855.8841232 Three country houses and five chalets. Less than two hours drive from Montreal and Quebec, with the Relais des Mésanges, taste the saving peace of the country ! Motel des Deux Lacs 2909, route 112, Shefford, J2M 1C6 450.539.2398 [email protected] 8 rooms on the edge of an artificial and private lake. An amazing terrace to admire the sunset. What else ? Hôtel Saint Christophe 255, rue Denison Est, Granby, J2H 2R4 1.877.405.4782 450.405.4782 www.hotelstchristophe.com The St-Christopheis located in a magnificent setting, on the shores of a lake in the eastern townships, a few minutes from the Bromont mountain resort and with a direct access to the scenic Green Route bike trail. Royal decor with all the modern equipments at their full disposal. Restaurant Demers 936, Rue du conseil Sherbrooke, Sherbrooke, J1G 1L7 819.564.2811 www.restaurantdemers.com The Demers family can host up to 300 guests in its welcoming restaurant, including 6 private dining rooms. Wood-fire roasted chicken and pizzas, seafood, and table d’hôte offered at the best quality and prices. Spa Algua-Sulis, Centre Beauté & Bistro 950, rue King Ouest, Sherbrooke, Qc J1H 1S3 819.346.1133 1.877.9SPASULIS www.spaalguasulis.com In addition to its body treatments and tantalizing bistro menu, you’ll want to sit back and enjoy the many amenities of the Spa Algua-Sulis: whirlpool thermotherapy, Nordic and thermal waterfalls, polar baths, a Finish sauna, and outdoor relaxation areas with lakeside views. Spa Le Montagnais 215, chemin de la Forêt enchantée, Val-Racine, Qc G0Y 1E0 819.657.4777 1.877.703.4777 www.spalemontagnais.com Complete with hot and cold spas, sauna and steam-room, Spa Le Montagnais also offers massage therapy as well as a wide range of spa treatments. At nearly 650 meters above sea level on Mont-Mégantic, it’s the perfect place to escape the city and enjoy the picturesque Eastern Townships year-round. 104 l GQ GQ l 105 Eastern Townships Accomodation La Maison de Ville - bed & bistro 353 Saint-Patrice O., Magog, Qc, J1X 1W7 819.868.2417 www.lamaisondeville.ca Come experience the new flavours of this cosy Bed & Bistro. Its modern décor and chic ambiance offer something comfortable and special in the heart of old Magog. You’ll be charmed by the location and by your hosts, Simon Beaupré and Martin Gagné. Méchant Steak 111 Wellington Nord, Sherbrooke, Qc J1H 5B9 819.791.5544 www.mechantsteak.com This unique steakhouse is the place where ambiance, creative cooking and delicious regional ingredients like fine cheese, mushrooms, and locally raised meat combine to make an unforgettable culinary experience. Domaine Pinnacle inc. 150, Chemin Richford, Frelighsburg, Qc J0J 1C0 450.263.5835 www.domainepinnacle.com Domaine Pinnacle’s specialty is making the best ice cider in the world. Made from apples grown on the hills of Mont Pinacle, this liqueur’s outstanding taste has received worldwide acclaim. Stop in to try their crème de pommes and other orchard-made delicacies. 106 l GQ GQ l 107 108 l GQ GQ l 109 The Laurentians © Tourisme Laurentides A natural destination Located just north of Montréal, the Laurentians are by far the foremost destination for city-dwellers looking for the peace and quiet of the great outdoors. You only have to try taking Highway 15 northof Montréal on a Friday or Sunday to realize just how much they like it out there. For many types of visitors, from day-trippers to explorers, the mountains and foothills of the Laurentians, which rise abruptly from the plain of the St. Lawrence Basin, are a major tourist attraction. With its ski hills, such as the internationally renowned Mont-Tremblant, its lively towns and villages like Saint-Sauveur, Sainte-Adèle, or Val David, and its countless lakes, it’s an area that provides year-round enjoyment with several gay-friendly or gay-oriented establishments to choose from. In the Lower Laurentians (Basses-Laurentides), many gays flock to Oka Beach, a half-hour drive from Montréal just north of Laval, where naturists and nudists enjoy the sandy shores. At the place where the Ottawa and St. Lawrence Rivers join to form the Lac des Deux-Montagnes,the water is known for its freshness and quality. and the beach harbours a few marvels of its own. For outdoor dancing, there’s nothing like the Beach Club at Pointe-Calumet. For a more sophisticated occasion that requires architectural flair, or for a wedding, the Abbaye d’Oka is a no longer a monastery and is open to the public. In Saint-Hyppolite, near Saint-Jérôme, the Auberge du Lac du Pin Rouge is inn that hosts a Sunday gay night. 110 l GQ GQ l 111 With its backdrop of waterfalls that are typical of the Laurentians, a lot of gay naturists prefer to strip down at the waterfalls of Saint-Marguerite-du-LacMasson, just between Saint-Jérome and Saint-Sauveur. The adorable town of Saint-Saveur is a locale favoured by nature-lovers, skiers, and gourmets. You’ll be charmed by the shops, restaurants and resort ambiance. In summer, a gigantic waterpark attracts bathers of all ages, or for something less crowded, try one of the many spas in the surrounding area. In winter, the Mont Saint-Sauveur ski hill is one of Québec’s most popular ski resorts. And it’s only one of 5 ski hills that in all total over 100 downhill trails. From the end of July to early August, music, art, and dance enthusiasts convene in the town for the Festival des arts de Saint-Sauveur. The festival hosts major headliners from the national and international dance and music scene. Further north, the resort town of Mont-Tremblant has been the Laurentians’ premier tourist destination since the early days of the “P’tit train du nord.” Nowadays, the railway has been turned into a bike path, for a sportier way to explore the area. Since the city was revamped by the development company Intrawest, and reconstructed to resemble a mountain ski town, all-season tourism has been booming. Vacationers from Canada, the US and all over the world flock to Tremblant, which boasts a newly opened casino to add some international glamour. A whole series of events and festivals punctuate the cultural year, from the Féérie des Glaces (Feb-March) to the Festi Jazz in August, and the Rhythmes Tremblant which happen every weekend in July and August. Major urban centres (aside from the Montréal suburbs on the Rivière des Milles-Îles): Saint-Jérome (pop. 68,000). Saint-Sauveur (pop. 10,000), MontTremblant (pop. 9,000), Mont-Laurier (pop. 13,000) 112 l GQ GQ l 113 The Laurentians Accomodation & services Auberge Rêve Blanc 707, chemin Ferme Rouge, Mont-Laurier, J9L 3G3 819.623.2628 1.866.523.2628 www.auberge-quebec.ca Auberge Saint-Donat 350, route 329, Saint-Donat, J0T 2C0 819.424.7504 1.888.870.0401 www.aubergestdonat.com 12 full equiped rooms and suite, offering charm, comfort and beauty are waiting for you. A few minutes from Tremblant, Belinda and François are warmly waiting for you. For those who want to get a unique, tastefull and extraordinary experience. Auberge Onwego Inn 112, chemin Plouffe, Mont-Tremblant, J8E 1J8 819.429.5522 1.866.429.5522 www.tremblantonwego.com This inn is a little piece of paradise where you can really get away from it all! This cosy little place can accommodate up to 30 guests. Nestled on the untouched beaches of Lac Mercier, you’ll enjoy its sunset views. And it’s only 4km from the resort town of Tremblant. Aventure Quatre Saisons 13080, Route 117, Labelle, Qc J0T 1H0 514.554.5091 www.aventurequatresaisons.com Adventure awaits: canoeing, kayaking, group rafting and yurt tenting on the shores of the Rivière Rouge in the Upper Laurentians. Enjoy the beaches of fine white sand, the calm waters, the natural forest and the exotic flair of Mongolian yurts. A certified personal guide will accompany you for your stay. Chalets Lac à la Truite 1961, chemin de la Montagne, Sainte-Agathe, J8C 2Z7 819.321.2222 1.877.700.2221 www.noschalets.com With our whole variety of full equiped chalets fronting the lakefront, we’re offering you the best of the Laurentians. Come and see by yourself how great it is to relax and breathe Lac à la Truite’s fresh air (private beach, kayak, etc.) A sensorial experience to share. Condos Étoiles Laurentides 514, chemin du Mont Loup-Garou, Sainte-Adèle, J8B 3C8 514.831.1843 www.condoslaurentides.com A haven of peace par excellence, Condos Stars Laurentians offer quiet and romantic. Ideal for a getaway in the countryside, couples will discover relaxation and comfort. Whirlpool, terrace, equipped kitchen, TV, bedding and towels, etc. Corporation de l’Abbaye d’Oka 1600, chemin d’Oka, Oka, J0N 1E0 450.415.0651 114 l GQ GQ l 115 The Laurentians Accomodation & services [email protected] Now open to the public, the Oka Abbey offers seven halls for rental, including a church. Ideal for galas, balls, weddings or business meetings in a unique atmosphere. Accomodation and catering facilities available on site. Gîte B&B Le Roupillon 2316, Chemin du Village, Mont Tremblant, J8E 1E9 819.429.6402 1.877.819.0827 www.giteleroupillon.com A charming nature is waiting for you at 5 min. from Tremblant (skiing, casino, etc.) Full equipped and confortable rooms and condos (spa, terrace, massage, etc.) Restaurant Les Artistes offers you a complete and fresh table every day. Héli-Tremblant 72, Route 117, Mont-Tremblant, J8E 2X1 1 866.425.5662 [email protected] Tours, chartering, aerians photographs and panoramics flyovers in helicopter of the Laurentians, Tremblant, Gatineau, Ottawa, etc.. 12 months per year, comfortable, securitary and spectacular. Hôtel du Lac 121, rue Cuttle, Ville de Mont-Tremblant (Québec) J8E 1B9 1.800.567.8341 1.819.425.2731 www.hoteldulac.ca [email protected] The supreme relaxation experience awaits you at Spa-sur-le-Lac, in the heart of nature. Treat yourself to special moments at the peaceful oasis at Hotel du Lac. Hostellerie du Lac Noir 2791, Chemin des Faucons, Nominingue, J0W 1R0 819.278.3817 1.888.278.3817 www.hostelacnoir.qc.ca [email protected] Discover a nature lover’s heaven: 8 rustic cabins to enjoy the peacefulness of nature, tucked on the lakeshore in a beautiful 44 acre forest. Trails, mini farm and 4 season activities. Well behaved pets welcome. Les Copains D’Abord 804, rue de Saint-Jovite, Mont-Tremblant, J8E 3G3 819.681.7869 www.copainsdabordtremblant.com This elegant bistro’s unique sensibility and relaxed atmosphere are its principal charms. The attentive service ensures a memorable dining experience. All of which made for a 2-star rating in the prestigious Guide DeBeur in 2010. Originality is on the menu at Les Copains d’Abord! Kanata Tremblant France Légaré (Directrice des Ventes) 1.877.734.3414 819.421.1152 www.KanataTremblant.com 116 l GQ GQ l 117 The Laurentians Accomodation & services Located only 20 minutes from Mont Tremblant, the Kanata Tremblant Écovillage and log cabins is a spectacular refuge, set on 1300 acres of mountains and forest. Have your own eco-friendly lake-side log cabin built with the best materials available, for less than you think. Ranch 4 Saisons 651, Rang 4, Saint Alphonse Rodriguez, Qc J0K 1W0 450.883.0933 1.877.883.0933 www.ranch4saisons.com If you love the outdoors and riding, you’ll love riding vacation package Ranch 4 Saisons. Ranch 4 Saisons is located northeast of Montreal, in the Lanaudière region where lakes and mountains meet. Take advantage of a number of package deals, and go from city-slicker to cowboy! Relais St-Denis 61 St-Denis Avenue, Saint-Sauveur (Quebec) J0R 1R4 450.227.4766 1.888.997.4766 www.relaisstdenis.com Exceptional location, luxuriously-appointed suites, 4-season spa and outdoor swimming. In every suite: Living/dining area, fireplace, air-conditioning,TV, CD/ DVD player, double therapeutic bath Glass shower stall, Hi-speed Internet. Résidences Mont-Tremblant 102 allée du Rabaska CP 2670, Mont-Tremblant, J8E 1B1 1.819.425.5707 1.888.425.5707 www.rabaskatremblant.com RABASKA, located right between the ski hill and the resort town of Tremblant, and adjacent to the P’tit Train du Nord golf course, the Résidences Mont Tremblant are within hiking distance from the Rabaska River and the Spa Scandinave. With snow-shoes and cross-country skis are waiting at your front door, this is an ideal get-away for any nature-lover. 118 l GQ GQ l 119 The Laurentians Accomodation & services Royal Laurentien 2237, chemin Lac Nantel sud Saint-Faustin, Lac Carré, J0T 1J2 819.326.2347 1.800.GOLF.ROYAL www.royallaurentien.com Located in St-Faustin-Lac Carré in the Laurentians, these luxurious chalets will not leave anyone indifferent. Some of our chalets offer private outdoor Spas. Sentier Plein Air La Détente Rod Poirier & Sylvie Lefebvre, 3169, boul. Des Ruisseaux, Mont-Laurier, J9L 3G6 Tél. 819.623.6818 www.ladetente.qc.ca Is located in the heart of the Upper Laurentians, and boasts a host of outdoor activities in all seasons. Whether it’s fishing, hunting or hiking, you have everything you’ll need for an unforgettable vacation! Make yourself at home in the fully equipped chalet. Parachutisme Adrénaline 881, Lamontagne Saint-Jérôme, Qc J5L 1T8 Sans Frais : 1-877-727-2248 Tel. :450-438-0855 www.paradrenaline.ca Come experience your first instructor-led tandem parachute glide only 30 min from Montréal. There’ll be nothing on your mind but the fantastic scenery as you descend to earth. Video and photo options available. 120 l GQ GQ l 121 122 l GQ GQ l 123 Lanaudière The Hills... are alive with the sound of Céline North-east of Montréal, stretching between the Laurentians and Mauricie, Lanaudière is another much-loved nature get-away for Montrealers. While the southern part of the region is starting to look more and more suburban, with towns like Terrebonne, Mascouche and Repentigny building up along the shores of the Thousand Island and St. Lawrence Rivers, the back-country is still mostly farmland and untouched forest. Unlike the Laurentians, this region’s main geographical features are hills, not mountains. Die-hard Céline Dion fans making a trip through this area won’t want to miss the opportunity to check out the small town of Charlemagne, near Repentigny, where the star was born and grew up. Everyone in town can tell you where the family homestead is. 124 l GQ GQ l 125 There are a number of gay-friendly inns and spas in the region which offer a chance to relax, unwind, and enjoy the beautiful natural surroundings but an hour away from Montréal. Naturists are sure to enjoy the Domaine La Fierté in Saint-Julienne, near Rawdon, which stakes its claim as the largest gay campground in all of North America. Largest cities : Terrebonne (pop. 102 000), Repentigny (pop. 79 000), Mascouche (pop. 32 000). 126 l GQ GQ l 127 Lanaudière Accomodation Auberge Aux Quatre Matins 155, des Skieurs, Saint-Côme, QC J0K 2B0 450.883.1932 1.800.929.1932 www.auxquatrematins.ca [email protected] Auberge Aux Quatre Matins is the place of choice where you can take time to relax. We offer the charm of a rustic accommodation, a typical regional gastronomy, health center and a relaxing spa and many activities nearby for all seasons. Auberge Montagne Coupée 1000, chemin de la Montagne Coupée, Route 131,Saint-Jean-de-Matha, J0K 2S0 450.886.3891 www.montagnecoupee.com Heaven of peace in pure natureIndulge yourself in a pleasantawakening of the body and mind.The Inn welcomes you in its 47 cozy rooms and suites. Chalets le Refuge du Cerf 39, Rang Procule, Notre Dame de la Paix, J0V 1P0 1.866.521.6232 www.chaletsrefuge.ca Le Refuge du Cerf is a cluster of 2 and 3-bedroom log cabins. With a fire place, full kitchen (with microwave), TV, the Refuge’s idyllic surroundings attract wild deer right at your door. Pourvoirie Basilières 3328, Chemin Brassard RR 2, Saint-Zénon, J0K 3N0 450.884.0228 www.pavillonbasilieres.com A mere 1.5 hours from Montréal, this country get-away is the perfect place to enjoy the natural beauty of Lanaudière. Pourvoirie Trudeau 4551, chemin Brassard, Saint-Zénon, J0K 3N0 1.800.293.5432 450.884.5432 www.pourvoirietrudeau.com This country oasis stretches over 50 square km, including 36 chalets, 27 lakes and over 116km of hiking trails. Open year round, there the chalets are the ideal place to enjoy all four seasons. 128 l GQ GQ l 129 130 l GQ GQ l 131 Ottawa & Gatineau Gatineau Canal Rideau © Ottawa Tourism Stradling the Ottawa River The Ottawa River separates Québec from Ontario, as soon as one passes the Vaudreuil peninsula west of Montréal. This natural border is by no means a human border. Between Montréal and Ottawa, French remains the dominant language on both sides of the river and exchanges between residents on either side are frequent. Further west after Ottawa, the Ottawa valley is mainly English-speaking on both sides of the river. Exchanges are just as frequent up in the North West, in Témiscamingue and in Abitibi, where the border again crosses land. Although the majority of Canada`s Capital region is in Ontario, it is a cross border area which includes the city of Gatineau on the Québec side. This makes the Ottawa region the third pole of gay and lesbian life in Québec. Economic growth over the past 40 years has drastically reshaped the peaceful town of Ottawa. This growth began around the time when the Omnibus bill was passed in 1969, decriminalizing homosexuality in Canada. A city where civil servants were previously forced to hide their sexual orientation for fear of losing their jobs, in 2001, when the census included same-sex couples for the first time, ironically, the Ottawa/Gatineau region was found to have the highest percentage in the whole country. In 1857, Queen Victoria chose Ottawa to be the capital of Canada, later to become the place where great political decisions were made to advance gay and lesbian rights and the legalisation of same-sex marriage in 2005. 132 l GQ GQ l 133 Ottawa & Gatineau Casino © Ottawa Tourism Beyond its administrative functions, the presence of the federal ministries helped to stimulate the creation of numerous research centers which have contributed to the economic growth and diversification of the city. Home of great cultural institutions such as the National Arts Center, the National Gallery of Canada and the Canadian Museum of Civilization, the capital region has become a major cultural centre in the country. Just two hours from Montréal, Ottawa is not to be missed on a trip to Québec! With a little less than half the population of the metropolitan area speaking English as their mother tongue and one third speaking French, it is one of the most bilingual regions in Canada. No surprise then that Ottawa is officially a bilingual city although the French-speaking community is mainly concentrated on the Québec side of the river and in the east end of Ottawa on the Ontario side, from the banks of the Rideau Canal to Orléans at the city limits. A few decades ago, a more liberal set of laws regarding bars opening hours resulted in many gay establishments choosing to set up shop on the Québec side, but ever since the laws were changed to harmonise opening hours on both sides of the river, nightlife has been refocused on the Ontario side. This has contributed to the rise of a ‘’Gayborhood’’ close by Bank Street and Somerset in Ottawa’s Centretown. Not quite a gay village yet, the area is still the epicentre of gay life. The emergence of this area as a gay area still does not detract from the appeal of the Byward Market. Nowadays, the community still gathers around these two areas. 134 l GQ GQ l 135 Ottawa Centretown, le gayborhood Pride Week-end © Ottawa Tourism Over the past 25 years, LGBT establishments have concentrated themselves in Centretown, just south of Parliament Hill. After visiting Parliamentary Hill, the National Arts Centre or the Canadian Museum of Nature, you can easily stroll down to the gaybourhood next door. The Centretown Pub has been an institution for over 25 years now. It’s location on the elegant Somerset Street, right next to Bank Street has shaped Ottawa’s gay geography. With a pub on the ground floor, the Cellblock discothèque on the second floor and the Silhouette piano-bar, it is the most popular gay complex in town. Five minutes away from the Centretown Pub, you’ll find a range of gay shops along Bank Street and its side streets: cafés, restaurants, bookshops, saunas, erotic shops for men and women and community resources. Closer to Parliament on Sparks street, the Edge Club has become another popular night spot. To have the full gay Ottawa experience, you`ll want to stay at Inn on Somerset, an elegant Victorian home just a stone`s throw from Centretown. 138 l GQ GQ l 139 Ottawa The Byward Market’s European flavor Couple gai © Ottawa Tourism Marché By © Ottawa Tourism East from Parliamentary Hill, on the other side of the Rideau Canal, the Byward market is the social hub of the Lower Town, the traditionally French-speaking district in Ottawa. A great place to get a taste of Ottawa, local farmers sells their products on various fruit and vegetable stalls. Housing some of Ottawa`s finest restaurants as well as cafés, delicatessens, bars and specialised boutique, the Byward market has a sort of European charm. The market also has a fantastic nightlife. After visiting the National Gallery or catching a show at the National Arts Centre, it`s the place to be to finish the night. The LookOut on York Street is a well frequented gay and lesbian pub. On the ground floor, enjoy some Japanese cuisine at Kinki. Otherwise, there is always a gay night going on in one of the various bars and clubs in the area. For years now, Hump night on Wednesdays at Mercury Lounge has been the place to be. If you are a visual arts lover, take a walk at La Petite Mort Gallery on Cumberland Street, where gay artists are often shown. 140 l GQ GQ l 141 Gatineau NGC-Event-Setup © Ottawa Tourism On the other side of the Ottawa River On the other side of the Ottawa River, twin-city Gatineau is home to the Canadian Museum of Civilizations. Around the federal buildings in downtown Gatineau, you will find a lot of fine restaurants and cafés. Walk through Place Aubry and around Laval Street. There are several heritage buildings in this beautiful square, including the magnificent Queen-Anne style Aubry House, the former Chez Henri Hotel (the first building to be designated as a historic monument by the new Ville de Gatineau) and the Aux 4 Jeudis café (the old Laflèche grocery store). It is also one of the rare pedestrian squares in Gatineau. Le Twist Café, on Montcalm Street nearby has been a popular gay and lesbian hub for more than a decade. The world-class Casino du Lac Leamy in Gatineau is also an attraction if you feel like gambling. The complex includes a hotel and cabaret. For almost a quarter century Gatineau has hosted a Hot Air Balloon festival (Festival des montgolfières) that adorns the sky of the capital area with balloons of all shapes and sizes. 142 l GQ GQ l 143 Around the capital Rivers, hills, and valleys ManoirPapineauMontebello ©info07.com Before Ottawa was chosen by Queen Victoria to the be the site of the newly united Dominion of Canada in 1857, the Ottawa River valley and its tributaries was a mostly woodland region, a land of farmers and lumberjacks. Even today, it only takes a half hour to get to the back woods from the downtown, or to discover the picturesque villages founded in the 19th century by the Québec population boom, and by British immigrants. Between Montréal and Gatineau, on the Québec side of the river, a visit to the charming village of Montebello is a definite must. As an old seigniorial home for the Petite-Nation county, it was where patriot leader Louis-Joseph Papineau built his mansion after returning from exile in 1846, after the Rebellion of 1837-38. He had already made the first sketches for it while in exile in France, inspired by the chateaux of the Loire valley. The construction itself took three years, from 1847-1850, while the interior decoration was completed gradually by 1859. In the Gatineau River valley, which flows from the Upper Laurentians to the Ottawa River, you have to visit the Parc national de la Gatineau that abuts the city. Only a half hour from downtown, the Lac Meech waterfalls have long been a gathering place for the area’s gays. Hop in for a refreshing dip! The Gatineau valley has a host of picturesque villages, like Wakefield, on the river’s western shore where it meets the La Pêche River. Wakefield has gained a reputation as an artists' colony of sorts, with several bohemian cafés, pubs and galleries. At the Moulin de Wakefield, you'll find seasonal haute cuisine that has earned many fans. West of Gatineau, the Pontiac region is one of the few regions of Québec that remains English-speaking. In June, local artists gather at the studio of out gay painter Marcio Melo for a studio tour of the area, which is an excellent way to visit the region's artists in the natural environment that so inspires them. 144 l GQ GQ l 145 Ottawa Accomodation, restaurants & bars Auberge 31 milles 12, chemin de l’Auberge, Ste-Thérèse-de-la-Gatineau, Qc J0X 2X0 819.449.7272 1.866.587.7277 www.auberge31milles.com Located only 1.5 hours from Gatineau, the Auberge 31 Milles in Ste-Thérèse offers a delicious and diverse menu at a great price, with 10 lake-view rooms to escape to for the perfect get-away in the Gatineau region. Auberge de Mon Petit Chum B&B 29 chemin Burnside, Wakefield, J0X 3G0 819.459.1814 www.monpetitchum.com Come and relax at our charming Bed and Breakfast. Only 25 minutes from downtown Ottawa, in the heart of Wakefield. Wake up to a gourmet breakfast! Quietly nestled between cafes and boutiques along the Gatineau River. A walk away from the old steam train and endless hiking trails to discover. Year round activities for everyone to enjoy! Auberge des Outaouais 1175, rue Jacques-Cartier, Gatineau, J8T 2W3 819.561.5241 www.Auxbergesoutaouais.com Enchanting decor, delicious cuisine and warm welcome, this is a place of rest and relaxation for people who like to explore and experience. Auberge du Draveur 85, rue Principale Nord (autoroute 105), Maniwaki, J9E 2B5 819.449.7022 www.aubergedraveur..ca A varied menu restaurant, 49 comfortable rooms, 9 studios and 3 luxurious suites with whirlpool. Conference rooms, outdoor spas and therapeutic services. Auberge & Spa Le Moulin The Wakefield Mill 60 Mill Road,Wakefield, Quebec, J0X 3G0 888.567.1838 819.459.1838 www.wakefieldmill.com [email protected] Escape to the charm and serenity of the most beautiful Inn & Spa in Canada’s National Capital Region. Centretown Pub 340, rue Somerset Ouest, Ottawa, Ontario, K2P 0J9 613.594.0233 www.centretown-pub.com Where you can relax, have a drink, shoot some pool, and watch the game and news. You can make new friends and chill out with old friends. You can also participate at the monthly pool tournaments. Chalet-Condo Lac Cayamant Julie Martel 819.459.1912 819.775.5366 www.chaletsauquebec.com/FicheChalet.aspx?IdChalet=7604 Located in the idyllic Gatineau Valley town of Lac Cayamant, just 1.5 hours from Ottawa-Gatineau on the majestic Lac Cayamant, these stunning cottage-condos are the perfect place to get away from it all, any day or night or the week. 146 l GQ GQ l 147 Ottawa Accomodation, restaurants & bars Domaine Monté-Bello 696, rue Notre-Dame, Montebello, Québec, J0V 1L0 877.420.5096 819.423.5096 819.962.5096 www.domainemontebello.com Surrounded by nature and located in the picturesque village of Montebello, Domaine Monte-Bello feature rooms and spacious condos, meeting rooms and the possibility of cruising on the Ottawa River. Le Twist café - restaurant – bar 88, rue Montcalm, Gatineau, (Hull), J8X 2L7 819.777.8886 www.letwist.com The appointment for people of all age in search of delicious dishes at reasonable prices, all in an atmosphere of cordial simplicity. Ottawa Centre Bed & Breakfast 62, rue Stewart, Ottawa, Ontario, K1N 6J1 613.237.9494 www.ottawacenterbnb.com This outstanding B&B offers lavish breakfasts, free off-street parking, central air conditioning, guest rooms on the second floor, in room bathrooms, wireless internet, and light laundry upon request. Piz’za-za 36, rue Laval, Gatineau, J8X3G7 819.771.0565 The restaurant is a prime location for both tourists and local people seeking a good time and a delicious meal in an environment that is connected and friendly where a fine bottle of wine is always available to savour. Specializing in fine pizzas, the chefs make sure to work with only in-house and terroir ingredients. 148 l GQ GQ l 149 Ottawa Accomodation, restaurants & bars Zenkitchen 634 Somerset Street West, Ottawa, On K1R 5K4 613.233.6404 www.zenkitchen.ca ZenKitchen’s mission is to make food that nourishes the body, spirit, and the planet, and that extends to making tasty creations with healthy, eco-friendly ingredients. Chef Caroline will wow you with beautiful and scrumptious plates of ravioli, curry and risotto. Pavillon de l’Orignal 162 Chemin de la Baie au Sable, Grand-Remous, Qc, J0W 1E0 888.757.2329 1.819.623.2329 www.pavillonorignal.qc.ca Nestled in the Baie au Sable, one of the Baskatong Reservoir’s most beautiful coves, the Pavillon is the ideal place to relax and enjoy the beach and nature walks, as well as fishing, raspberry-, blueberry- and mushroom-picking. Kinki 41, York St, Ottawa, Ontario, K1N 9J6 613.789.7559 www.kinki.ca A high-quality Asian Fusion Sushi Restaurant in the ByWard Market. You can listen to some of Ottawa’s finest djs and live musicians laying down their coolcontemprary beats. The modern airy atmosphere also provides an outdoor terrace and add to the leisurely ambiance. École Culinaire pour Tous 444, boulevard St-René Est, porte extérieure 800 Gatineau, Qc, J8P 8A9 Tel. : 819 643-8687 Fax. : 819 643-6666 [email protected] www.ecoleculinaire.com Founded in 2000 with over 20 years of culinary teaching experience, the École culinaire pour Tous offers cooking courses in pastry, chocolate, baking sushimaking and more, as well as on healthy nutrition. It’s our pleasure to cater your events too! Ottawa Points of interest National Gallery of Canada Ovehanging the Ottawa River with its glass tower, the NGC feature many impressive collections of local and foreign fine arts. 2011-2012 curent and coming exhibitions: Caravaggio and Van Gogh. 380, Sussex Dr. C.P. 427 Succ. A Ottawa, ON, K1N 9N4 613.990.1985 1.800.319.ARTS www.gallery.ca [email protected] National Arts Center National Capital’s primary cultural institution, the NAC features varity of shows such as Rufus Wainwright and Sarah Maclachlan. Other world acclamed symphonic and ballet concerts are presented. The English theater is directed by Peter Hinton. 53, Elgin St. Ottawa, ON, K1P 5W1 613.947.7000 1.866.850.ARTS [email protected] www.nac-cna.ca Canadian Museum of Civilization Impressive architectural masterpiece, this museum makes you travel true the ages that made the history of Canada. It is also the only place in North American that feature IMAX film in 3D and 2D in a Dome screen. 100, Laurier St. Gatineau, QC, K1A 0M8 819.776.7000 1.800.555.5621 [email protected] www.civilization.ca La petite Mort Gallery .La petite Mort Gallery features avant-garde, astonishing and sometimes disturbing exhibitions frequently by LGBT artists. Presented soon: James Huctwith, Slava Mogutin and Brian Kenny. 306 Cumberland St. Ottawa, ON, K1N 7H9 613.860.1555 [email protected] Ottawa Bars & Clubs Centertown Pub 613.594.0233, 340, Somersert West St. Ottawa, ON, K2P 0J2* Edge Night club 212 Sparks St. Ottawa, ON, K1P 5T9* Flamingo 613.288.9243, 380, Elgin St, Ottawa, ON, K1K 1K1*The Lookout, 41, York St. Ottawa, ON, K1N 5S7*Swizzles, 246 B, Queen St. Ottawa, ON, K1P 5E4 150 l GQ GQ l 151 Ottawa Services Au feel de l’eau Casino du Lac-Leamy boating dock 1 boul. du Casino, Gatineau, Québec, J8Y 6W3 819.329.2413 www.aufeeldeleau.ca We offer à la carte private cruises on Gatieau and Ottawa River on a 100% electric boat. For business meetings, 5@7, lover getaway, special events, etc. Bar and caterer services available on demand. Éco-Odyssée 52, Chemin des Sources, La Pêche, J0X 3G0 819.459.2551 www.eco-odyssee.ca Adventures of observation and identification of wild water maze. Unique! In the heart of nature, 30 minutes from Ottawa. For all ages. Great Canadian Bungee 1780, autoroute 105 Nord, Wakefield, Québec 819.459.3714 1.877.828.8170 www.bungee.ca The ultimate thrill of throwing yourself in the deep emptiness on the edge of 200 feet high rock overhanging a flood quarry is your idea of excitement? Great Canadian Bungee is the highest bungee jump in North American and its only 20 minutes from Ottawa. Héli-Tremblant 11, Promenade de l’Aviation, Ottawa, Ontario, K1K 4R3 613.447.5662 [email protected] Tours, chartering, aerians photographs and panoramics flyovers in helicopter of the Laurentians, Tremblant, Gatineau, Ottawa, etc.. 12 months per year, comfortable, securitary and spectacular. Lady Dive Tours Ottawa, corner of Sparks and Elgin Streets 613.223.6211 www.ladydive.com With its three types of vehicles, Lady Dive Tour presents an original way to discover the National Capital Region. Climb aboard the unique Amphibus, the historic Trolley or one of the three Double Deckers which two have an open roof. Le Nordik - Spa en nature 16, chemin Nordik, Old Chelsea, Qc J9B 2P7 819.827.1111 1.866.575.3700 www.lenordik.com Le Nordik – Nature Spa is a relaxation retreat located in Old Chelsea, a picturesque and friendly town bordering Gatineau Park. With its unique style, the Spa is dedicated to the practice of relaxation techniques from the Scandinavian countries, such as Nordic baths involving hot and cold hydrotherapy. 152 l GQ GQ l 153 Québec © MTOQ The city of Robert Lepage Québec City, the national capital of Québec, is truly the birthplace of Québec identity. Established in 1608, it is one of the most ancient colonial towns in North America. New France started as a trade post and quickly grew to populate the surrounding areas and from there on the Côte de Beaupré, then to Île d’Orléans before spreading to the whole Saint Lawrence River Valley. This ancient city, reminiscent of the Northwest of France from which came its first settlers, is recognised as a UNESCO world heritage centre. Nestled between the Cap Diamant and the banks of the wide river estuary, this European-style city easily charms its visitors. For its 400e anniversary, one of the city’s most renowned and celebrated artists, Robert Lepage, offered the city the now world famous Moulin à images (see cover), a spectacular multimedia show, projected publicly during the summer on the industrial landscape of the Bassin Louise silos, recounting the history of the site and the city. 154 l GQ GQ l 155 It is in Québec City, his hometown, that multidisciplinary artist Lepage decided to found his creation centre, Ex-Machina, which can be found in the historic Old Port district, two steps away from Place Royale. In 1975, at age 17, Lepage entered the Conservatoire d’art dramatique de Québec. In 1985, he created La trilogie des dragons, a piece about Quebec City’s former Chinese district which used to stand along SaintVallier Street in the lower town. This particular production brought him international fame. After serving as artistic director for Ottawa’s National Arts Center, Lepage made inroads in the film industry with Le confessional, a film about the quest for identity of a bisexual man, in which Quebec City is prominently featured. His next film, a cinematographic adaptation of La face cachée de la lune, also takes in his hometown. In the film, he plays two characters, one of whom is gay, the other a discouraged university student. The two men try to reconciliate their relationship after the recent death of their mother. In 2004, Robert Lepage took centre stage once again, directing KÀ for the Cirque du Soleil. Guy Laliberté, founder of Cirque du Soleil, saw Lepage’s potential to take art direction to a new level. His most recent creation, LipSynch, a 6 hour panorama which focuses on language, was presented in March 2010 in Montréal. or the occasion of Québec City's 400th anniversary in 2008, one of their preeminent artists, Robert Lepage, created a spectacular outdoor light and sound installation called Le Moulin des images. The history of the city and the industrial site of the Bassin Louise silos was projected onto the silos, drawing crowds from all over the country. 156 l GQ GQ l 157 157 158 l GQ GQ l 159 160 l GQ GQ l 161 Joé La Clowne Québec Gay life in Québec City When the gay community began to be visible in the city, it was naturally in the majestic Old city (Vieux-Québec), which attracts locals and tourists alike. Gay life then spread along Saint-Jean street in the Faugbourg Saint-Jean-Baptiste, a popular neighbourhood next to the walls of the old city. In Old Québec City, Hippocampe Sauna & Hotel is probably the oldest gay establishment still running in the Province. Le Drague, a favourite nightclub, has become a true institution even since it opened over 25 years ago. This is how Saint Jean street has become the center of gay life without the creation of a real Village as in Montréal. The Nouvo Saint Roch neighbourhood is another revamped centre of gay life. The old town and old port areas, as well as the Montcalm district, have several gay friendly establishments. In Quebec City, as elsewhere, gays tend to gather in more central neighbourhoods, hotspots of nightlife. BARS & CLUBS BAR St-Andrew’s 418.524.5000, 889, côte Ste-Geneviève, Québec, G1R 5M2 *LE DRAGUE 418.649.7212, 815, rue St-Augustin, Québec, G1R 3N4 * FORHOM 418.522.4918 , 221, rue Saint-Jean, G1R 1N* 162 l GQ GQ l 163 Québec The 2011 Season Gay Highlights The historic capital city's 2011 cultural season is looking very gay this year. From theatre to visual art exhibits, Québec City will be a mecca for the GLBT community. The back to school season starts with the mounting of by Jean Poiret’s original French play La Cage aux folles, made famous on Broadway by Harvey Fierstein. Directed by Normand Chouinard, who promises not to hold back on the feathers and sequins, the play stars Québec favourite Benoît Brière as Albin and Alain Zouvi as his partner Georges. With high production values (to the tune of almost $1 million), this mounting of the French language original brings a major touch of fabulous to the Capitole de Québec from Sept 21-Oct 2. Over at the Bordée theatre, the season starter is the one getting all of the attention: Michel Marc Bouchard's latest work, Tom à la ferme played to sold-out houses at the théâtre d'Aujourd'hui in the winter of 2011, and will be brought back to the stage by the young Marie-Hélène Gendreau, who takes the reigns for this tragic story of grieving and loss. As exhibits go, there will be some new offerings in the city as well. The Musée national des beaux du Québec will present Steichen: Glamour, Fashion and Celebrities: The Condé Nast Years, 1923-1937, a massive retrospective of one of the 20th Century’s most prolific and influential photographers. The 225 original photo works in the exhibit will be more than enough to get visitors dreaming. In the 1920s and 30s, Steichen became world famous as the photo editor at US magazines Vogue and Vanity Fair, immortalizing major figures from the worlds of fashion, politics, literature, sport, dance, theatre, cinema and opera. Fred Astaire, Charlie Chaplin, Winston Churchill, Gary Cooper, Marlene Dietrich, and Greta Garbo as you’ve never seen them before! At the Musée de la Civilisation, the Chapeaux! (Hats!) exhibit is the major highlight on the gaydar. While hats are significant in costume history, they are also part of our individual and collective past in the West. They can be quintessential, respectable, daring, fascinating or just plain pretty. Come discover their significance via the civilisation museum’s 130 some pieces from their collection. Oct 12, 2011 to Aug 12, 2012. 164 l GQ GQ l 165 Québec Cultural Capital Bonjour, là, bonjour de Michel Tremblay © Nicolas-Frank Vachon Grand Théâtre de Québec Québec City’s main cultural centre, the Grand Théâtre stages dance, classical music and theatrical productions as well as special events. 269, boulevard René-Lévesque Est Québec G1R 2B3 1.877.643.8131 www.grandtheatre.qc.ca Palais Montcalm The Palais Montcalm’s Raoul Jobin Hall is one of the world’s best concert halls. Early music with Les Violons du Roi, soloists from the OSM and violinist Angèle Dubeau. 995, place D’Youville Québec G1R 3P1 418.641.6220 www.palaismontcalm.ca Théâtre La Bordée The Bordée is the only established theatre company in Québec City to own and operate its own studio and performance space. 315, rue Saint-Joseph Est Québec G1K 3B3 418.694.9721 www.bordee.qc.ca Théâtre Périscope The Théâtre Périscope is a hub of creativity in the Capital. Located in the heart of the city, it’s the place to feel the pulse of fresh new works. Coming this season: Alexandre Fecteau’s Changing Room, a vérité-style play about the world of drag queens. 939, avenue de Salaberry Québec G1R 2V2 418.648.9989 www.theatreperiscope.qc.ca 166 l GQ GQ l 167 Québec Cultural Capital Harold Réhaume © Voir Musée de la civilisation The Musée de la civilisation traces the links between past, present and future. Its mission is to show new facets of the entirety of human experience, speaking to the realities of global cultures while staying firmly ground in Québec. Upcoming exhibit: ROME, May 11, 2011 – Jan 29, 2012 85, rue Dalhousie C. P. 155, succ. B Québec G1K 7A6 418.643.2158 www.mcq.org Musée national des beaux-arts The MNBA is one of the province’s preeminent museums. Perfectly located on an historic battle ground, it’s a must-see for any visit to the Capital. Parc des Champs-de-Bataille Québec G1R 5H3 418.643.2150 www.mnba.qc.ca Carrefour international de théâtre The Carrefour is a fabulous annual spring showcase of new theatre in a unique city. The best of Québécois and international theatre. www.carrefourtheatre.qc.ca Festival d’été The Capital’s biggest and coolest music festival kicks off at the start of the summer each year. www.infofestival.com 168 l GQ GQ l 169 Québec Shops, Activities & place of interest Bibi & Cie 42, Rue Garneau, Vieux Québec, G1R 3V5 418.694.0045 www.bibietcompagnie.com To find that perfect hat you’ve always wanted, there’s only one place: Bibi & Cie in Old Québec. In addition to furs, scarves and gloves, the store boasts a selection of over 3000 hats! Expéditions Nouvelle Vague 246, 5ième Avenue, Saint Gabriel de Valcartier, G0A 4S0 418.520.7238 418.844.3674 [email protected] www.expeditionsnouvellevague.com With their dynamic and safety-aware staff, and superb setting. you’ll be talking about the white water rafting at Nouvelle Vague for years to come. Montgolfière Aventure 1343, rue Provancher, Québec, G1Y 1R7 418.659.1234 1.866.473.9375 www.montgolfiereaventure.com Montgolfière Aventure offers you of fabulous tours in hot-air balloons, parachute jumping as well as diverse hot-air balloons packages. Muvezi 127, Rue Saint Paul, Québec, G3K 3V9 418.614.8125 418.614.8126 www.muvezi.com Muvezi is a place where beauty and contempory taste meets ancient artistic traditions in this fair-trade scupture gallery featuring works by contemporary African artists. Parc National de la Jacques Cartier 418.848.3169 418.528.8787 téléc.: 418.848.1372 www.sepaq.com/pq/jac [email protected] A large park with mountains and plateaux. Québec’s loveliest glacial valleys. Here nature is both inspiring and serene.Campground. 170 l GQ GQ l 171 Québec Auberge Place d’Armes 24, rue Sainte-Anne, Vieux QuébecQuébec, Canada, G1R 3X3 418.694.9485 1.866.333.9485 www.aubergeplacedarmes.com Come and enjoy a charming inn in the heart of the Old Québec City, where you’re sure to savour the unique comfort and the attentive, discrete service. Comfort Inn Sainte-Foy 7320, boulevard Wilfrid-Hamel Sainte-Foy, G2G 1C1 www.choicehotels.ca Only 5 kms from Jean-Lesage international Airport and close to all major points of interest. Couette & Café à la Québécoise 305, rue Dorchester, Québec, G1K 5Z9 418.529.2013 / [email protected] Located in the heart of downtown Québec City, this cozy B&B offers beautiful rooms and a calm and peaceful atmosphere. The city can be easily visited by foot from their central location. Gîte Côte de la montagne 54, Côte de la Montagne, Québec, G1K 4E2 418.694-4414 1.888.794.4414 téléc.: 418.694.4414 www.gitedelamontagne.com [email protected] Bed&Breakfast in a house with more than 350 years of history. Gîte Côte de la Montagne offers an amazing view on Québec city. Gîte Monique et André Saint-Aubin 3045, de la Seine, Québec, H7W 5E2 418.658.0685 www.gitesaintaubin.com In a perfect combination of calm and comfort, your host will be glad to meet all your needs and inform you on the best attractions and activities around. Hôtel Le Manoir d’Auteuil 49, rue d’Auteuil, Qc G1R4C2 418.694.1173 1.866.6 MANOIR (Canada & USA) www.manoirdauteuil.com Built in 1835 in Old Québec City, this B&B-style hotel is renowned for its excellent location, atmosphere, and service. Overlooking the Parc de l’Esplanade and the National Assembly, this art deco-themed gem even has a special “Édith Piaf” room as well as moderately priced rooms for every budget. Hôtel Sainte-Anne 32, rue Sainte-Anne, Québec, G1R 5L3 418.694.1455 / www.hotelste-anne.com Located in the heart of « Old Québec » upper town, inside the fortifications of the old city, a place to taste the old France charm of Québec City. Hôtel Saint-Paul 229, rue Saint-Paul, Québec, G1K 3W3 418.694.4414 1.888.794.4414 téléc.: 418.694.0889 www.lesaintpaul..ca [email protected] Charming hotel and attentive service.27 rooms and suites with stone or brick walls. 172 l GQ GQ l 173 Québec Accomodation L’Arvidienne 820, Grande Allée Ouest, Québec, G1S 1C4 418. 682-2755 418.682.8609 www.arvidienne.com [email protected] Two steps away from the Battlefields and from the Musée national des BeauxArts du Québec, close to trendy boutiques and restaurants. L’Auberge du Quartier 170, Grande Allée Ouest, Québec, G0C 1V0 1.800.782.9441 15 minute walk from the Old City, the Grand Théâtre, the Convention Center, the Québec Parliamentary Hill and from most government buildings. Le Coureur des Bois 15, rue Sainte-Ursule, Québec, G1R 4C7 418.692.1117 1.800.269.6414 [email protected] Recently renovated, the rooms are furnished for maximum comfort. Le Gîte du Champayeur 5, rue de l’Hôtel de Ville, Warwick, Qc J0A 1M0 819.358.9101 www.champayeur.qc.ca This charming little inn is located in Warwick, Québec’s national fine cheese capital. The perfect place to start a cycling adventure, and close to golfing, skiing, and many artisanal cheese-makers. Four rooms with private bath, and a lovely garden with hot tub (open year round) await you. Winner of the 2009 People’s choice’s Agricotours prize. Le Port-Royal 144, rue Saint-Pierre,Québec, G1K 8N8 418.692.2777 1.866.417.2777 www.leportroyal.com Come enjoy the historic Port Royal experience in a comfortable and spacious suite at the Port Royal Hotel & Suites. The fin-de-siècle architecture and modern décor give this hide-away a special flair. A concept of refined hospitality for the discerning traveler. Maison Dina 1114, Avenue Fournier, Sainte Foy, Qc G1V 2H8 418.652.1013 www.global-reservation.com/lamaisondina/ Only a 10-minute drive from Québec City and the area’s largest shopping malls, la Maison Dona welcomes you with a special home-made touch. With three guest rooms and a Chilean-inspired breakfast included. Hablamos español! Spanish spoken here. Secrets de Provence 1885, 26e rue, Québec, G1J 1J4 / 418.663.2247 In a quiet street, with the garden in the back, and the colors of Provence. The floors are made of maple wood but the comfort is modern. 174 l GQ GQ l 175 Québec Le Saint-Gabriel, Hôtel Champêtre 1825, Boulevard Valcartier, Saint-Gabriel de Valcartier, Qc G0A 4S0 418.844.9740 1.888.303.3621 www.hotel-le-st-gabriel.com The Saint-Gabriel hotel is an old wood mill located 20 minutes outside of Québec in the “green crescent” of the Jacques-Cartier region. Surrounded by the village’s 4 clock towers, it’s the ideal starting point for an outdoor adventure. Gîte au chant de la rivière 252 Chemin Redmond, St-Gabriel-De-Valcartier, G0A 4S0 418.844.3280 www.giteauchantdelariviere.com Nestled along the Jacques-Cartier River less than 30 minutes from downtown Québec, you’re all that’s missing at this 4-bedroom Scandinavian log cabin with outdoor spa. Breakfast included with overnight stays. 176 l GQ GQ l 177 Québec Gastronomical capital © Arnaud Baty In the footsteps of Serge Bruyère As a capital city and popular tourist destination, Québec City is home to a host of gourmet restaurants. The grand culinary tradition to be sampled here owes many of its qualities to the late Serge Bruyère, a precursor of “nouvelle cuisine” and one of very few Franco-Canadians to make it into the canonical Larousse gastronomique. After apprenticing with Paul Bocuse and the Troisgros brothers, Jean and Pierre, Bruyère emigrated from France in 1976 and opened his first restaurant in Québec City in 1980. By 1988, an American guidebook had rated his restaurant the best in the world that year. His real skill was in creating a fusion of French nouvelle cuisine with Québec’s local and regional foods. In 1994, Bruyère left this world long before his time, leaving behind his true legacy, a team of apprentices who would go on to become some of Québec’s greatest chefs. 178 l GQ GQ l 179 Québec Restaurants La Table du Chef Robert Bolduc 615, Rue Jacques Bédard, Notre Dame des Laurentides, G2N 1C5 418.841.3232 www.restodumanoir.com [email protected] Chef Robert Bolduc offers a delectable menu of local Quebec dishes with a Native and Old New France twist that manages to find a balance between flavour and modern healthier eating. Homemade jams, brined and slow-cooked meets and “confits” will make love to the palette of its patrons. Les Saveurs Oubliées 350, Rang Saint-Godefroy (route 362), Les Éboulements, G0A 2M0 418.635.9888 www.saveursoubliees.com The high-end peasant fare created by Guy and Hervé at Les Saveurs Oubliées, located in Les Éboulements, makes it one of the forerunners of agro-tourism in Charlevoix. Local lamb, along with regional produce, are two of its many delights. Hospitality, friendly service, and delicious homemade treats await you at Les Saveurs Oubliées. Paillard 1097 Rue St-Jean, Québec, Qc G1R 1S3 418.692.1221 www.paillard.ca This unparalleled bakery and gelateria is the ultimate place to enjoy a pastries, sandwiches and tasty morsels on a long refectory-style table, giving the gourmet locale a hip, New York feel with a European twist. Restaurant Aux Anciens Canadiens 34, Rue Saint Louis, C.P.175, Vieux Québec, G1R 1H0 418.692.1627 418.692.5419 www.auxancienscanadiens.qc.ca Discover the old world home cooking in a New World 17th-century setting that is actually the oldest house in Quebec (dating to 1676). The red roof and white stucco walls make it hard to miss, not to mention its countrystyle dishes of Lac Saint-Jean giblet meat pie, maple syrup pie with clotted cream. Hint: take a whole evening to enjoy the delights. Restaurant Le 48 48, Rue Saint Paul, Québec, G1K 3V7 418.694.4448 www.le48.com [email protected] At the 48, the moving décor is an homage to the Cirque du Soleil whose artists are glorified on the walls. Pork cassoulet with Brazilian flavours, salmon Madagascar, or the Belgian chocolate deluxe are just some of the offerings. 180 l GQ GQ l 181 Québec Restaurants Restaurant Le Marie Clarisse 12, Petit Champlain, Vieux Québec, Qc G1K 4H5 418.692.0857 www.marieclarisse.qc.ca With its 340 year-old walls, nestled in North America’s oldest commercial district, the “Quartier Petit Champlain”, Le Marie-Clarisse offers a fine dining experience of market-fresh fish and seafood, and delectable meat dishes, including their succulent fillet mignon. Restaurant Pub D’Orsay 65, rue de Buade, Québec, G1R 4A2 418.694.1582 www.restaurantpubdorsay.com Pud D’Orsay combines European cuisin with a warm ambiance and excellent food at reasonable prices! Steak & fries, spareribs, mussels and smoked meat are among their most popular dishes. Tuscanos 1445, avenue Jules-Verne (angle Duplessis) Québec, G2G 2R8 www.tuscanosquebec.com In a warm and welcoming atmosphere, Tuscanos has become famous for its diverse and genuine Italian cuisine, with a selection of pastas, pizzas, veal, salads, grilled meat and seafood with divine home-made sauces and a selection of more than 100 desserts. Spacious free parking. 182 l GQ GQ l 183 Québec Restaurants Au Mouton Douillet 418.688.8783, 1630, boul. Laurier, Sillery, G1S 1M4 bbcanada.com/4887.html * Chez Hubert Couette et Café 418.692.0958, 66, rue Ste-Ursule, Québec, G1R 4E6 * Gîte au Vieux Bahut 418.835.9388, 116, Côte-du-Passage, Lévis, G6V 5S9 * Gîte Chez France 418.268.3440, 87, rang de l’Église N., St-Alban, G0A 3B0 * Hippocampe Sauna Hotel Spa 418.692.1521, 31, rue McMahon, Québec, G1R 3S5 1-888-388-1521 * Motel Suite Québec 418.660.6850, 390, boul. Ste-Anne, Beauport, G1E 3L7 1.877.660.7274 * Pause PAPILLON 418.285.0919, 80, Route 138, Cap-Santé, G0A 1L0 * Station Touristique Duchesnay 418.875.2711, 143, route Duchesnay, Sainte-Catherine-de-laJacques-Cartier, G0A 3M0 * Village Touristique Mont-Sainte- Condo-Hôtel Anne 418.827.2002 1.800.463.7775, 1000, boul. du Beau-Pré, Beaupré, G0A 1E0 Téléc. : 418.827.6666 184 l GQ GQ l 185 Portneuf & Côte-de-Beaupré Pont de l’Ile d’Orléans ©Flickr.com Québec City & surroundings Nature’s abundance Located at the opening of the St. Lawrence Estuary, where the river opens up to become a wide sea way, Québec City’s surrounding areas are characterized by natural abundance and some of North America’s oldest agricultural land. It was along the Côte de Beaupré and on the Île d’Orléans that the earliest settlers took root some 375 years ago, in what became the breadbasket of New France. In the foothills of the Côte de Beaupré, visitors won’t want to miss the Montmorency Falls nature park, which hosts the summer fireworks display les Grands Feux Loto-Québec. West of Québec City, several small villages of the Portneuf district dot the Chemin du Roy (the King’s Road), the first land route in Canada, which dates to the 18th Century. There’s nothing like being here in harvest season, when the region becomes a cornucopia of local produce. North of the Capital Region, the rolling hills of Laurentian Mountains gradually meet the estuary the closer you get to Charlevoix. The Laurentians offer an array of ski hills and year-round outdoor activities, such as the very popular Mont Sainte-Anne. West of the Capital, Jacques Cartier National Park offers a spectacular back-drop to any outdoor adventure. In addition to nature’s abundance, the region boasts a large number of gayfriendly establishments and lodgings of all types. 186 l GQ GQ l 187 188 l GQ GQ l 189 Portneuf & Côte-de-Beaupré Accomodation Chalets-Village Mont Sainte-Anne 1815, Boul. les Neiges, Saint-Ferréol-les-Neiges Québec, G0A 3R0 418.826.3331 1.800.461.2030 www.chalets-village.com 30 min. away from Québec City and 20 min. away from the Massif de Charlevoix ski resort, Chalets-Village offers 15 charming country houses for short term rental in a village surrounded by rivers and mountains. Fully-equipped houses at the foot of Mont-Sainte-Anne and lots of winter and summer sports and activities. Hôtel – Musée Premières Nations 5, Place de la rencontre « Ekionkiestha’ », Wendake, G0A 4V0 1.866.551.9222 418.847.2903 [email protected] www.hotelpremieresnations.ca An extraordinary 3 in 1 located just 15 minutes from Québec City where you can enjoy 4-star accomodations with modern design, taste the phenomenal cuisine inspired by First Nations traditions and get immersed in the fascinating Huron-Wendat community by visiting the Museum. Maisonnettes sur le cap 201, Route 138, Saint-Joachim, G0A 3X0 418.827.6777 téléc.: 418.827.6060 www.maisonnettes.net [email protected] Unique view on the St. Lawrence River. Five minutes from Mont Sainte-Anne and twenty five minutes from Old-Québec. Little houses for two to five persons. Motel Condo Chez Charley 9650, boul. Sainte-Anne, Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupré, G0A 3C0 418.827.5837 1.888.564.2663 www.quebecweb.com/motelcondocharley Located on the shore of the St. Lawrence River, at only 30 minutes from Quebec City, a few km from ski resorts, motel or as condominiums lodging accommodating 2 to 8 persons. La Jeanne Claire, Couette & Café 303, 5e Avenue, Saint-Gabriel de Valcartier, G0A 4S0 418.848.3093 www.lajeanneclaire.com A lovel and peaceful haven for all season: nature and quietude on the shores of the Jaques-Cartier River, 45 km away from Québec City. With two fully-equipped and carefully designed rooms, yout hostess MarieClaude will welcome you with a smile. 190 l GQ GQ l 191 Chaudière-Appalaches Tours Martello © Guillaume Cattiaux On the South Shore Facing Québec City, on the south shore of the St. Lawrence River, Lévis is the Chaudière-Appalaches region’s main city, with 136,000 inhabitants. A ferry connects the Québec City Old Port to Lévis. From this side of the river, you can enjoy a panoramic view of Old Québec. Outside of Lévis, the Parc des Chutes-de-la-Chaudière, with its magnificent waterfalls, has been a favorite gay spot for decades. If you make a small detour to the village of Saint-Antoine-de-Tilly, make a stop at the Carrefour de Tilly restaurant and bar, where Justin and Antonin have been graciously hosting visitors since 1996. Camping lovers and naturists will be very pleased to discover the Domaine de l´Arc-en-ciel in Joly, about 50 km south of Québec City, the only gay campground in the national capital region. The Domaine is easily accessible from Highway 20. Further south, the legendary region of the Beauce is one of Québec’s proudest and most independent, with more than a few business in its stable. We might attribute the existence of two gay bars in Saint-Georgesde-Beauce to this region´s entrepreneurial spirit. In spite of their proximity to Québec, this town´s gays scene would be envy of other towns its size. Further east, for those who appreciate wood carvings, making a stop by Saint-Jean-Port-Joli, renowned for its woodworking, is a must. Largest cities : Lévis (pop. 136 000), Saint-Georges (pop. 32 000), Thetford Mines (pop. 26 000). 194 l GQ GQ l 195 Chaudière-Appalaches Accomodation Auberge Artistique 6104, Saint-Georges, G6V 4J8, Lévis 418.837.9619 [email protected] L’Auberge Artistique and its old-style charm offer you a cosy space, four spacious rooms with a warm decoration where reigns contemporary art. Bar l’Envol 11270, 1ère avenue, 5ème étage, Saint-Georges-de-Beauce, G5Y 2C3 418.227.5550 Café Bistro O.K. 9, Rue des Pionniers Ouest, Saint-Jean-Port –Joli, GOR 3G0 418.598.7087 [email protected] Come discover Saint Jean Port Joli’s only restaurant with a riverside view of the St. Lawrence. Enjoy Café Bistro O.K.’s gourmet comfort food while you look out over the marina. Domaine de l’Arc-en-Ciel 1878, 5e rang Ouest, Joly, Autoroute 20 sortie 266, G0S 1M0 418.728.5522 www.dom-aec.com L’Oiselière Autoroute 20 / Sortie 376, 105, chemin des Poirier, Montmagny, G5V 3T4 418.248.1640 1.800.540.1640 www.oiseliere.com Certified 4-star hotels, each one of our establishments offers rooms and suites that all have been specially designed for the comfort and well-being of its occupants. A sumptuous tropical garden with indoor pool, spa, sauna, restaurant, health center and all the services. Le Planet 8450, boul. Lacroix, Saint-Georges-de-Beauce, G5Y 2B5 418.228.1322 Maison Lauriault 3909 chemin de Tilly, St-Antoine-de-Tilly QC 418.886.4381 www.maisonlauriault.com [email protected] Heritage House (1804) in the heart of the village of Saint-Antoine-de-Tilly (1702) 20 minutes from Quebec city. Villégiature et Pourvoirie Daaquam 47, rue des moulins, Saint-Just-de-Bretenières, Qc G0R 3H0 418.244.3442 1.888.558.3442 www.daaquam.qc.ca A fresh air paradise in the middle of the Parc régional des Appalaches, Daaquam sets a new standard for authenticity and friendly service. With its 7 rental cottages and 4-star B&B, you can enjoy year-round get-aways for relaxation, adventure, fishing, hunting and hiking. 196 l GQ GQ l 197 Charlevoix Les Eboulements panorama © J-F Bergeron Enviro , Tourisme Charlevoix Scenic Charlevoix For two centuries now, the Charlevoix has welcomed summer vacationers from around the globe to admire the beauty of its scenery. Just under an hour’s drive east of Québec City, discover its exceptional natural sites and unique attractions, contemplate the endless beauty of its mountain and river landscapes, immerse yourself in art and culture, savour celebrated regional fare and take in traditional warm and friendly hospitality. No wonder the region counts on a significant number of gay-friendly accommodations. A favorite of Canada’s Group of Seven painters, the birthplace of the celebrated Cirque du Soleil, and a heritage town with over 85 century-old homes, Baie-Saint-Paul is nestled in a valley that still draws artists to this day. Take a walk along its many narrow streets lined with charming boutiques and art galleries—it’s a great way to discover and fully enjoy one of Québec’s oldest municipalities. The River Drive area runs some fifty kilometers from Baie-Saint-Paul to La Malbaie, winding along the majestic St. Lawrence River in a procession of breathtaking views. It includes Saint-Joseph-de-la-Rive, a historic municipality known for its maritime heritage, where visitors can take a free ferry ride to Isleaux-Coudres. The area also comprises the lovely villages of Les Éboulements and Saint-Irénée. 198 l GQ GQ l 199 Discovered in 1535 by Jacques Cartier, Isle-aux-Coudres has a fascinating sea-faring history. Today, the proverbial hospitality of the “Marsoins,” as the locals are affectionately known, is as warm as ever, and vacationers are always happily greeted with a smile. Isle-aux-Coudres is accessible via a free fifteen-minute ferry ride from Saint-Joseph-de-la-Rive. With over 1,100 rooms and 35 first-rate lodging establishments, La Malbaie is the main town and tourist destination of Charlevoix. Home of the impressive Manoir Richelieu overviewing the St-Lawrence, with its casino, no wonder why! From romantic inns and quaint, cozy B & Bs to luxury hotels with outdoor pools and spas, here lovers are sure to find the perfect setting for romance. Restaurants boast gorgeous riverside views and whet your appetite with tantalizing gastronomic menus featuring flavours so typical of Charlevoix - cheeses, duck foie gras, smoked salmon, emu medallions and other regional fare are all prepared by reputed chefs, to tempt your taste. 200 l GQ GQ l 201 Charlevoix Accomodation & Restaurants Auberge Beauséjour 569, chemin du Quai, Saint-Joseph-de-la-Rive, G0A 3Y0 1.800.265.2895 www.aubergebeausejour.com Well nested in one of the most beautiful villages of Québec. You will feel at home. Auberge des 3 canards 115, Côte Bellevue, La Malbaie ( Pointe-au-Pic ), G5A 1Y2 418.665.3761 1.800.461.3761 www.auberge3canards.com For 50 years, this inn has achieved recognition for its high standards of culinary delights and hospitality, boasting a 4 star rating. Is set in a unique natural environment, classified by UNESCO as a World Biosphere Reserve. Auberge La Rivière Saguenay 9122, Chemin de la Batture, La Baie, G7B 3P6 418.697.0222 1.866.697.0222 www.aubergesaguenay.com Nature attracts you, culture inspires you, looking for the best of both worlds? Come and surf on our waves in a stunning and unique fjord setting, relaxing for both the soul and body. Come and enjoy our different packages organized for your taste and convenience. Chez Gertrude (Centre de l’Émeu de Charlevoix) 706, Saint-Édouard (Rte 381), C.P. 293, Saint-Urbain, Qc G0A 4K0 418.639.2205 www.gertrude.qc.ca Chez Gertrude has been operational as an inn for 26 years, and now its first floor has been transformed into a visitors’ centre. Come enjoy a peaceful, welcoming stay in this century-old house where you’ll feel right at home. Crêperie Le Passe Temps 245, Boul. de Comporté, La Malbaie, Qc G0T 1M0 418.665.7660 www.creperielepassetemps.com The cosy atmosphere of this 1820’s building is the perfect setting to enjoy delicious crêpes and fondues, as well as high-quality table d’hôte offerings. The only challenge is what to choose! Gîte les Colibris 80, rue Sainte-Anne, Baie St-Paul, G3Z 1P3 1.888.508.4483 418.240.2222 charlevoix.net/lescolibris [email protected] Centrally located near all services and activities. Gîte Terreciel 113, rue Sainte-Anne, Baie-Saint-Paul, Québec, G3Z 1N9 418.435.0149 www.terreciel.ca/gite/ Inviting century home on the edge of the rivière du Gouffre, just steps from the beach, wharf, best restaurants, art galleries and museums. The B&B offer spacious rooms with private bathroom free parking, Wi-Fi connection and more. Hébergement Charlevoix 1.888.435.5107 hebergement-charlevoix.com Rental agency: chalets, homes and condos for 2-18 persons. 202 l GQ Charlevoix Accomodation Les Immeubles Charlevoix 179, rue Saint-Paul, Québec, Qc G1K 3W2 418.692.2908 1.866.435.6868 www.imcha.com Les Immeubles Charlevoix specializes in accommodations by and near tourist attractions for the discerning visitor. Their growing international clientele enjoys the quality and personalized service, as well as the unique properties available in Old Québec, Lac Beauport, Stoneham, and Charlevoix. La Maison Vert-Tige 125, rue St-Raphaël, La Malbaie, G5A 2N6 418.665.5628 maisonvert-tige.com [email protected] Spacious all equipped condos. Charm and intimacy. Petit Manoir du Casino 525, chemin des Falaises,La Malbaie, G5A 2V5 418.665.0000 1.800.618.2112 www.petitmanoirducasino.ca In the heart of Charlevoix, le Petit Manoir du Casino dominate the majestic St. Laurence River.153 rooms provide comfort and an exceptional outlook. Pourvoirie Baie-Sainte-Catherine 451 Gosford Nord, Inverness, G0S 1K0 418.633.0100 (en saison) 418.453.2562 (hors saison) www.pourvoiriebaiesaintecatherine.ca At Pourvoirie Baie-Saonte-Catherine, you will be welcomed by the owners, who are always on the site to make sure your vacation is memorable. In the midst of wilderness for fishing, hunting, or relaxing getaways. Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu 181, rue Richelieu La Malbaie, Qc G5A 1X7 Sans Frais: 1 (888) 610 7575 Tel. : (418) 665-3703 www.fairmont.com [email protected] Nestled majestically between the sea and the mountains, the Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu Quebec Resort in Charlevoix is a vision of historical splendor. Rich in tradition, this exquisite paragon of hospitality blends the quiet charm of the countryside with the sophistication of a world-class resort. Gîte Richelieu 555 rue Richelieu La Malbaie Qc G5A 2X4 Tel.: 418.620.0532 www.gitelerichelieu.com [email protected] Le Richelieu Bed & Breakfast, built in 1917, is a former presbytery that has been meticulously and respectfully restored.Three history filled, well appointed rooms, are available, all with private bathroom facilities! A public living area, an inviting dining area with private tables, and a lovingly restored gallery compliment this wonderful home 204 l GQ GQ l 205 206 l GQ GQ l 207 Mauricie & Trois-Rivières © Mario Groleau Photographie Jean-Paul Daoust © Robert Houle Also in Trois-Rivières, the Musée québécois de culture populaire (Museum of Québec pop culture) presents six unconventional and fun exhibits which will allow you to discover the diversity of Québec culture. Between Industry and Poetry Situated half-way between Montréal and Québec, the Mauricie region is the second oldest area of European settlement in New France. Founded in 1634 as the first incorporated town in Québec, Trois-Rivières celebrated its 375th anniversary in 2009. Formerly a major centre of the pulp and paper industries, the town of Laviolette has successfully revitalised its downtown core and Old Trois-Rivières in recent years. But Trois-Rivières isn’t purely of historical interest: there are also the bustling bars, cafés and clubs on the rue des Forges and the rue Royale where restaurant and bar patios spill out onto the street. History buffs can also visit the rue des Ursulines, and trace the origins of one of Québec’s oldest towns. Another attraction not to miss: the Forges-du-Saint-Maurice. Located about 20 minutes from downtown Trois-Rivières, this historic site commemorates Canada’s first iron industry, which was in operation since the 18th century. The many well-preserved archaeological remains let you travel back in time to the birth and evolution of the country’s earliest forges. For those not planning to go on vacation until October, Trois-Rivières will be hosting the 26th International Poetry Festival. While the guest list for the upcoming edition hasn’t been finalized yet, we can be sure that gays and lesbians will be well represented among a large group of poets from around the world. In 2009, the festival’s grand prize was awarded to gay Québec poet Jean-Paul Daoust. Lesbian poet Nicole Brassard is also a regular at the events. From Sept 30 to Oct 9, 2011, over 400 activities will take place over 10 days, in 70 different venues: cafés, bars, restaurants, museums, art galleries and concert halls where over 100 poets from 30 countries flock from 5 continents. The Festival International de la Poésie is one of Québec’s most unique cultural events. When you explore the downtown and Parc portuaire of Trois-Rivières, you’ll find the 400 love poems that are written on the walls of this capital of Poetry. 208 l GQ GQ l 209 Mauricie & Trois-Rivières In Shawinigan, the first destination we suggest is la Cité de l’énergie, a science-and-technology complex based around the theme of energy. You can check out the hydroelectric plants, interactive exhibits, multimedia presentations and fascinating scientific demos. It’s the ultimate place to discover the marvels of electricity, pulp & paper, aluminum and electrochemical technologies. Experts show you experiments on magnetic levitation and hydrogen power. Take a moment to climb to the second highest observation tower in Québec to enjoy the spectacular view. And we could hardly talk about travel in Mauricie without mentioning La Mauricie National Park, which covers 536 square km of forests and lakes stretching into the distance - a feast for the eyes. This is an ideal spot either for leisurely strolls or for keeping in shape with long hikes, as well as sunny picnics, fishing and camping. While recent decades have seen the development of a gay and lesbian community in Trois-Rivières, competition with Montréal and Québec City (each only 1.5 hours away) have made it harder for GLBT venues to stay open. Nonetheless, you’ll find plenty of gay-friendly establishments in both Trois-Rivières and Shawinigan. 210 l GQ GQ l 211 Mauricie & Trois-Rivières Accomodation, restaurant & interesting places Auberge de la rocaille 1851, 5e Avenue, Grand-Mère, G9T 5L3 819.538.8683 www.aubergelarocaille.com Located not very far away from Grand-Mère town center (and Shawinigan), L’Auberge de la Rocaille will seduce you with its warm welcome and small prices. Auberge Gouverneur 1100, prom. du St-Maurice, Shawinigan, G9N 1L8 1.888.922.1100 819.537.6000 Téléc. : 819.537.6365 gouverneurshawinigan.com [email protected] Located across the Cité de l’Énergie, l’Auberge Gouverneur and Centre de Congrès Shawinigan offers a spectacular view over the theme park and the St-Maurice River. Come and relax in an incomparable natural setting while enjoying top grade technological services. Camping Lac St-Michel 11 650 Rue du Clairon, Trois Rivières QC G9A 5E1 819.374.8474 5 camp grounds with high cleanliness and service standards in 5 of Québec’s most beautiful tourist regions. Camping Union camp sites are amongst the best camp sites in the Chaudière-Appalaches, Gaspé, Eastern Townships, Laurentians, Mauricie and all over. Camping Union is the most stunning network of private camp sites in Québec! Domaine Sainte-Flore 4600, chemin Domaine-Ste-Flore, Ste-Flore-de-Grand-Mère, Shawinigan, G9T 5K5 819.601.8692 www.domainesteflore.com Located on a wide private woodland, Domaine Ste-Flore is a peaceful place where serenity goes along with outdoor activities. At 15 km from La Mauricie National Park, and half a kilometer from snowmobile trails, Domaine Ste-Flore is surrounded with things to do. Parc des Chutes Sainte Ursule 2575, rang des chutes, Sainte-Ursule, Qc J0K 3M0 819.228.3555 www.chutes-ste-ursule.com The park is a place to relax par-excellence where one is lulled by the sound of the falls cascading over a total descent of more than 270 metres. Along their numerous hiking trails you can follow the course of the Maskinongé River or simply discover the splendour of our forest. Passion Sélect Boutique Érotique 1600, rue Royale, Trois-Rivières, G9A 4K1 819.693.6040 www.passionselect.ca The largest erotic store in Mauricie. Accessories and erotic toys, lingerie, DVD always in promotion. Vast inventory, everything in store. 212 l GQ GQ l 213 Central Québec A needed stop South of the St. Lawrence River, the Centre-du-Québec region earns its name from being adjacent to all of Québec’s most populous areas: Montréal and surrounding areas, the Eastern Townships, the Mauricie region and the greater Québec City area. As such, it’s the perfect place to plan an excursion to any major attraction in Québec. Drummondville has a number of gay-friendly dining establishments for the weary traveler. In the heart of the town, the restaurant and inn A la bonne vôtre is widely praised for its decadent food as well is its friendly, welcoming atmosphere. In June, Victoriaville hosts the Festival des fromages fins du Québec, a fine cheese festival for foodies and gourmets to taste the country’s finest dairy creations. Lovers of fresh air and wide open spaces and gay naturists have gathered regularly at the Domaine Emeraude campground and resort in SaintFrançois-du-Lac by Lake Saint-Pierre. The region’s major urban centre is Drummondville, the perfect place to stop between Montréal and Québec. History buffs will want to visit Village québécois d’antan, a cultural and historic heritage site. This typical 19th century village will take you back to the years from 1810 to 1910. With 70 buildings, 22 period houses and 18 “economuseums” where artisans practice traditional trades, the Village québécois d’antan will literally immerse you in the past. If you are a fan of traditional world cultures, you’ll want to make a trip during the Mondial des cultures, a folk and traditional dance festival that takes place every July at Woodyatt Park in Drummondville. The festival will celebrate its 30th year in 2012. Over 11 days of festivities, dozens of world renowned artists and folk dance troupes participate in the events, which gather over 300,000 spectators every year. 214 l GQ GQ l 215 Central Québec À la bonne vôtre 207, rue Lindsay, Drummondville, J2C 1N8 819.474.0008 866.474.0008 téléc.: 819.474.0162 www.alabonnevotre.ca [email protected] Enjoy a comfortable week end in the heart of Drummondville and close to all activities. Domaine Émeraude 261, rang de la Grande-Terre, Saint-François-Du-Lac, J0G 1M0 450.568.3634 www.domaine-emeraude.com [email protected] Charming little property for adult males only. The owners wish to create a friendly, respectful and warm atmosphere; a place for fun, relaxation and meeting others. The clothing-optional policy applies to most of the primary site. Gîte touristique Prés et Vallons 415, chemin Mooney, Durham-Sud, J0H 2C0 819.858.2782 www.pres-et-vallons.ca Located on a quaint country road where central Québec, the Eastern Townships, and the Montérégie meet, this exquisite 3 bedroom cottage provides breathtaking views of the surrounding hills. The perfect place to relax and recharge. Motel Blanchet inc. 225, boul. St-Joseph Ouest, Drummondville, J2E 1A9 819.477.0222 Sans frais: 1.800.567.3823 www.motelblanchet.com Motel Drummond 105, boul. Saint-Joseph, Drummondville, J2C 2A5 1.800.266.4614 www.moteldrummond.com Located in the heart of Drummondville, Motel Drummond offers comfort and convenience in a welcoming ambiance at a very affordable price. Victorines du lac 1886, route 161 Sud Lac Mégantic, G6B 2S1 819.583.6904 téléc.: 819.583.6906 www.victorines.ca [email protected] 17 elegantly fashioned and unique rooms providing an inviting change of scenery and an opportunity for relaxation. Le Village québécois d’Antan 1425, rue Montplaisir, Drummondville, J2B 7T5 819.478.1441 1.877.710.0267 www.villagequebecois.com Located close to Highway 20 in Drummondville, almost halfway between Montréal and Québec City, Village Québécois d’Antan is a lively revival of XIXth century rural Québec life. 216 l GQ GQ l 217 218 l GQ GQ l 219 Saguenay Michel Marc Bouchard © Damian Siqueiros Michel Marc Bouchard’s career has been marked by countless awards and prizes. A darling of the Canada and Ontario Councils for the Arts, he was shortlisted 3 times for the Governor General’s Literary Award, and nominated (also 3 times) for a Masque for best original script. He is the winner of the 1992 CAN prize and was honoured with the title of Officer of the Order of Canada by Governor General Michaëlle Jean. Between berries and lilies Set in Roberval in the early 20th century, Lilies (Les Feluettes) was the breakout play by celebrated out playwright Michel-Marc Bouchard, who hails from the Saguenay-Lac-Saint-Jean region. Originally produced in the late 1980’s, this play remains one of very few pieces written for the theatre that feature two Romeos torn apart by intolerance. Translated into multiple languages, and brought to the screen by acclaimed filmmaker John Greyson, Lilies has become an iconic work in Québec’s gay cultural canon. Since stepping onto the theatre scene in 1985, Michel Marc Bouchard overturned all the conventions. An instigator of a truly gay theatrical language, he also achieved hugs success in Québec’s theatrical establishment. Unlike Tremblay, Bouchard’s work is more interested in gay life outside of major cities. Fast forward to 2011, the prolific playwright showed his latest work, Tom à la ferme at Montréal’s Théâtre d’Aujourd’hui. It tells the story of a city clicker who works in advertising and must return home to attend the funeral of an ex-lover who died senselessly in a motorcycle accident. He meets the grieving mother and brother who surprised to be greeting a man, and not a woman. The protagonist quickly learns he is complicit in a lie to keep his dead lover’s homosexuality secret. All of Bouchard’s favorite themes are here: repressed sexuality, passion, and the archetypal return home. 220 l GQ GQ l 221 Being Gay in the Saquenay While there has undoubtedly been progress made for gays and lesbians over the last hundred years, most will admit it’s still not easy to live openly outside of major urban areas. Nonetheless, the riding of Jonquière, in the heart of this semi-rural region, became the first to elect an openly gay Member of National Assembly, Sylvain Gaudreault, in 2007. Since the federal elections in May, 2011, the MP for Chicoutimi-Le-Fjord is NDP Dany Morin, newly named co-spokesperson for the official opposition for LGBT issues. How times have changed! In the Far-Away Land of the Saguenay From the mouth of the majestic Saguenay Fjords, to the upper reaches of Lac Saint-Jean, hospitality is not hard to find. Going up-river along the Saguenay, you won’t want to miss the picturesque villages of L’Anse Saint-Jean and Sainte-Rose-du-Nord. History buffs may want to visit the historic ghost town of Val-Jalbert, which will tell you the story of 19th-century colonization of this First Nations territory by farmers from Charlevoix. At the heart of the region, the city of Saguenay with its 150,000 inhabitants comprises more than half of the population of the whole region. An industrial city and service hub, Saguenay has a gay and lesbian culture counting only one openly gay establishment, the K-Mé-Léon bar. The greater Saguenay area has quite a few gay-friendly B&Bs and inns where you can count on a warm welcome typical of the friendly people of this corner of the country. 222 l GQ GQ l 223 Saguenay - Lac Saint-Jean Parc Nattional Pointe-Taillon © Mathieu Dupuis | © Sépaq © MTOQ The Majestic Lac Saint-Jean Traveling up to Lac Saint-Jean proper, visitors are sure to enjoy the 15 km of beaches at the Pointe-Taillon National Park, known by many to be one of the most beautiful soft-water beaches in Québec. Such expanses of beach naturally allow for more than a few areas where nudity is allowed. In Saint-Félicien, you can visit the “Jardin zoologique” (Zoological Garden). If you make a stop in Roberval to retrace the steps of Vallier and Simon from Lilies, you’re right next to the Innu community of Mashteuiatsh. Visiting this place will be a chance to connect with the culture of the country’s original inhabitants. In August, don’t miss the chance to enjoy the region’s famed blueberries. The inhabitants of the region have their own pet-name for this species of Northern Blueberry, les beluets, that also ironically refer to locals. For those who enjoy cycling through their vacation, the blueberry bike trail is a great way to travel around the Lake. With a circumference of 256 km, take the opportunity to relax in one the numerous inns that dot the trail, where you can enjoy local produce and cuisine. Largest cities : Saguenay (pop. 147 000), Alma (pop. 30 000), Dolbeau-Mistassini (pop. 15 000). 224 l GQ GQ l 225 Saguenay - Lac Saint-Jean Accomodation Auberge des 21 621, rue Mars, Ville de la Baie, Québec, G7B 4N1 1.800.363.7298 418. 697.2121 www.aubergedes21.com [email protected] Our Inn is located on the shore of the majestic Saguenay Fjord and the Marine Park. Its warm family Inn atmosphere will fascinate you as much as the quality of its services and its fine regional cuisine. Auberge des Battures 6295, boul. de la Grande Baie Sud, Saguenay, G7B 3P6 418.544-8234 1.800.668.8234 www.hotel-saguenay.com A unique 4-star country style hotel with 32 rooms. It offers an incredible panoramic view. Auberge Du Jardin 71, boul. Dumas, Petit-Saguenay, G0V 1N0 1.888.272.3444 418.272.3444 Téléc. : 418.272.3174 aubergedujardin.com [email protected] Quiet and comfortable place in the Fjord du Saguenay. Exceptional countryside. Famous fine cuisine for gourmets prepared with regional products. Auberge Presbytère Mont Lac-Vert 335, rang Lac-Vert, Héberville, G8N 1M1 418.344.1548 1.800.818.1548 téléc. 418.344.1013 www.aubergepresbytere.com [email protected] Danielle and Robert offer a warm welcome at their Inn, formerly a presbytery up until 1978. Prayer and meditation has made way for their delicious cuisine, made with local ingredients. You will no doubt be enchanted not only by the fine dining, but also their beautiful site and romantic ambiance. Au Fil des Saisons 832, rue Cimon, La Baie, G7B 3L2 418.697.1000 Téléc. : 418.697.1000 www.aufildessaisons.com [email protected] A few steps away from Charlevoix. Magnificent 6 bedroom Inn all with private bathrooms with a panoramic view of La Baie des Ha! Ha! Our packages include dinner, 1 night accommodation, breakfast : 100$/person based on double occupancy. Aux Sels Cristallins 2221, Sentier de Poste-des-Villeneuve, Saguenay, G7B 3P6 819.827-8935 819.962.2221 www.auxselscristallins.com [email protected] To discover the beauty of the Saguenay Fjord with the possibility of two types of lodging. Studios or houses for up to seven persons. 226 l GQ GQ l 227 Saguenay - Lac Saint-Jean Accomodation Brise du Lac 493, rue Brassard, Roberval, G8H 1B8 418.275.0656 Téléc.: 418.275.8398 www.gitelabrisedulac.com [email protected] In the heart of Roberval, where the action of Michel-Marc Bouchard’s famous play Lilies takes place, this B&B allows you to fully enjoy the beauty of the Lac Saint-Jean. La Maison de Vébron 56, de Vébron, Anse-Saint-Jean, G0V 1J0 418.272.3232 www.maisondevebron.com Located at the foot of the Mont Édouard ski slopes, this small hotel is remarquable with the availability of common areas in each villa. Conference room, billiards room, and more. Le Gîte du Paradis 935, rue du Quai, Sainte-Rose-du-Nord, G0V 1T0 418.675.1382 www.giteduparadis.com Nice occasions to know people, to create friendly bonds and to discover other cultures in the beautiful nature surrounding the village of Ste-Rosedu-Nord. Le Refuge du Lac Goth 304, chemin du lac goth, Saint-Félix-d’Otis, GOV 1MO 702.755.0555 [email protected] The North Shore Monolithes près de Havre-Saint-Pierre © Wikipedia.org the 9th century. When Jacques Cartier explored the northern shores of the Gulf, he wrote that it was “the land that God granted to Cain.” Today, it remains one of the least populated regions of Québec, with only 100,000 inhabitants spread out over 200,000 km2, with half of the inhabitants living mostly in the industrial towns of Sept-Îles and Baie-Comeau. The North Shore is still mostly wilderness, its tiny towns acting as the gateway to Québec’s Great North. Sprinkled along the coast of the estuary and the Gulf of St. Lawrence, the villages and towns of the North Shore boast some of the most beautiful beaches in Québec, if you can handle the icy gulf waters! It’s also a wonderful area for getting acquainted with the First Nations of the province, as it is home to seven communities of the region’s first inhabitants. Come Get Carried Away ! Setting out from Tadoussac, at the mouth of the Saguenay Fjords, you’ll discover the North Shore’s immense boreal forest, either by driving on Route 138 or by boat. Home of the Innu People and of isolated fishing villages, this region was transformed by a major network of hydro-electric dams in the mid-20th century. Inhabited for more than 10,000 years by First Nations People, the North Shore is the first place Europeans were to tread in the New World. In fact, long before the Basque whale-hunters explored the region in the 15th century, traces of a Viking presence indicate European settlement as early as 230 l GQ The Upper North Shore (or Haute-Côte-Nord), located just north of the Saguenay River, has quite a few gay-friendly bed & breakfasts. They’re the ideal place to get away from the buzz of the city and get back in touch with nature at its most pristine. Founded in 1601 as a trading post, Tadoussac is one of the oldest French settlements in the Americas. Present-day Tadoussac is located not far from the original trading post, at the mouth of the Saguenay River. You won’t want to miss the chance to go whale watching, with the stunning backdrop of a glacial fjord. In 1998, the town became North America’s first member of the World’s Most Beautiful Bays Club. Over 300,000 tourists visit the 1,000-person town every year. You might want to visit during the Festival de la chanson de Tadoussac, a folksong festival that takes place in June and the town’s other varied cultural events. Nature-lovers will be overjoyed to discover the Mingan Archipelago National Park with its limestone and granite islands, or for an even wilder experience, the the Island of Anticosti, a gigantic piece of untouched wilderness in the middle of the Gulf. The Réserve du Parc national de l’Archipel de Mingan harbours a string of chalky islands covering 150 km2, located along the Havre Saint-Pierre, facing the Island of Anticosti. The reserve exceptional geological features include surreal monoliths, as well as untouched boreal plant-life. The waters surrounding the islands are rich in bird and sea life, including puffins, which nest on some of the archipelago’s islands. GQ l 231 The North Shore Tadussac © Flickr.com Located in the middle of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, Anticosti is Québec’s largest island. The island is an untouched natural world unto itself, bathed in crystalline northern light. You’ll be astounded by the tall white cliffs lapped incessantly by icy waves, the steep canyons and the roar of gushing waterfalls. You’ll also find huge secret caves, thousands of white-tailed deer, wild salmon swimming in emerald-green pools and seals lapping up the sun on the rocky beaches. Let yourself be sucked in by the wild beauty of Anticosti and the North Shore! Main urban areas: Sept-Îles, population 26,000; Baie-Comeau, population 23,000 232 l GQ GQ l 233 The North Shore Accomodation AAA Maison Gagné Accueil Amical Ass. 29, rue Principale, Pointe-Mistassini, G0H 1E0 418.294.2007 Cell : 418.293.5434 pages.globetrotter.net/lamaisongagne [email protected] Cottage rental, equipped, day/week, access to the St. Lawrence River, no smoking, whales, individual dry sauna. Auberge Maison Gagné 139, rue Bateau-Passeur, Tadoussac, G0T 2A0 418.235.4526 1.877.235.4526 téléc.: 418.235.4832 www.aubergemaisongagne.com [email protected] Just by the Saguenay Fjord, Auberge Maison Gagné warmly welcomes you in their nice and charming rooms. Auberge Rosepierre 66, rue Principale, Bergeronnes, G0T 1Y0 418.232.6543 www.rosepierre.com Splendid pink granite inn in the center of the village, offering a fine regional cuisine, only 15 minutes from Tadoussac. Owners Diane and Richard invite you with open arms. Aux Réveries Cool 4, Ch. Du Lac Miquet, Lamarche, Qc G0W 1X0 418.481.1919 Overlooking Lac Minet, Aux Rêveries Cool offers the perfect accommodation for outdoor sports and leisure, or just to relax. Every square inch of the place is designed for your comfort and enjoyment, so get ready to get away from it all! Les Maisonnettes des Îles 126, rue de la Mer, Longue-Pointe de mingan, G0G 1V0 1.877.949.2302 Télec.: 418.949.2071 www.minganie.info [email protected] Fully equipped seaside cottages overlooking the Mingan Archipelago, each with asher/dryer, bedding, kitchenware and digital TV. Outdoor adventure and restaurant packages available, as well as rebates on our souvenir shop. Maison Harvey Lessard 16, rue Bellevue, Tadoussac, G0T 2A0 418.235.4802 www.harveylessard.com Brood at the top of the village of Tadoussac, here you get a spectacular vue of the lake, the fjord and the majestic St-Lawrence river. 4 stars classification. 234 l GQ GQ l 235 Lower Saint-Lawrence Le Vaisseau d’or (The Golden Ship) It was a massive Ship carved out of solid Gold, Its masts reached azure skies, she sailed on seas unknown With Venus of love spreadeagled at the prow, Hair dishevelled and naked under the beating sun. But one night the ship struck the great reef On treacherous Ocean where the Siren was heard. The horrible shipwreck tilted, its hull aslant, she sank Deep down to the abyss so deep, that changless coffin. It was a Golden Vessel. Her diaphanous sides Revealing treasures that the lowly crew, Repulsion, Hatred and Neurosis, did fight over. What’s left of it under the brief abating storm? What became of my heart, that abandoned shipwreck? Alas, it has sunk down in the abyss of Dreams. The Golden Ship” by Québec most famous 19th-century poet, Émile Nelligan, was probably inspired by one of the many legends that grew up around the shipwrecks that dotted the lower Saint Lawrence River and the Gulf of St. Lawrence in the Gaspé region. The Nelligan family would spend their summer holidays there, like many upper-class Montrealers of the Gilded Age. Émile Nelligan It’s no coincidence then, that a classical pianist, hailing from the Lower Saint Lawrence village of Saint-Pacôme de Kamouraska famous Québec pianist André Gagnon, would set to music the libretto for the opera Nelligan by Michel Tremblay. The opera echoes the story of a gay love affair between the young Nelligan and his friend, the poet Arthur de Bussières. It’s impossible though to know whether the affair ever happened for real, although a recent historical essay by Bernard Courteau posits Nelligan’s homosexuality from a psychoanalytic perspective. One thing is certain, when you travel the byways, trails, and coastalareas of the St. Lawrence River, from the Bas-du-Fleuve to the Gaspé region, you relive the world that inspired Québec’s national poet, and that remains a favorite destination for tourists from here and abroad. 236 l GQ GQ l 237 Lower Saint-Lawrence © bonjourquebec.com The huge tourism district stretches from Chaudière-Appalaches all the way to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, where the river becomes the sea. You can explore this spectacular region, nestled between land and sea stopping at your leisure at rest stops that line Route 132. You’ll also find many gay-friendly inns, motels, and hotels. Rimouski is the major city in the Bas-Saint-Laurent region, with 46,000 inhabitants. This quaint university town is home to many gay-friendly establishments, and a well-known nightlife built up along boulavard Saint-Germain, with the Maison de torréfaction as the favourite gay hang-out. In the surrounding area, you’ll find culinary sophistication at the Auberge MangeGrenouille au Bac, located at the gate of the national park. Located just west of Rimouski, the Bic National Park, on the shores of the St. Lawrence, is post-card perfect with its spectacular landscape of capes, bays, islands, meadows and mountains. One of the county’s smaller parks, its rocky shoreline is home to a tremendous variety of sea-bird and rare plant life. Four different museums make Rimouski an historical centre. The foremost is the Site historique maritime de la Pointe-au-Père, located in the Pointe-auPère area, and exhibiting the treasures of the Empress of Ireland shipwreck. You can also visit the Pointe-au-Père lighthouse. In Grand-Métis, east of Rimouski, you absolutely must visit the elaborate Métis Gardens, which date to the belle époque, when Montréal’s upper middle class would holiday for entire summers in the Bas-du-Fleuve region. Open to the 238 l GQ GQ l 239 Lower Saint-Lawrence ParcNationalBic © flickr.com public since 1962, the English-style gardens are world-renowned as a work of horticultural art. The Jardins de Métis are the fruit of one woman’s dedication: Elsie Reford transformed her fishing camp into a private paradise between 1926 and 1958. Some 3000 species and varieties of plants grow in over a dozen different gardens. Contemporary artworks are interspersed throughout the garden, harmonized with the historic character of the flora on display. In Villa Estevan, a magnificent manor dating from 1887, a permanent exhibit illustrates the Reford family’s history. You can also enjoy the Villa’s temporary exhibits, as well as the special summer events like musical brunches, literary teas, outdoor concerts and weddings. Every year since 2000, landscape architects, as well as designers and internationally renowned artists come to the Jardins de Métis to create original garden installations for the Festival international des jardins. Major urban centres: Rimouski (pop. 46,000), Matane (pop. 15,000), Mont-Joli (pop. 7,000) 240 l GQ GQ l 241 Lower Saint-Lawrence Accomodation & restaurants Auberge La Seigneurie 621, av. Saint-Jérôme, Matane, G4W 3M9 1.877.783.4466 418.562.0021 Téléc. : 418.562.4455 aubergelaseigneurie.com [email protected] Awards-winning inn in Victorian house around Matane. Winner of the 2004 Prix d'excellence, and People's choice award from the Québec "Agricotours" Federation, this Victorian manor house on the outskirts of Matane will win you over with their house specialty: Raymonde's strawberry butter. Bistro du Nipigon 18 route du fleuve Ouest, Sainte Luce sur Mer, Qc G0K 1P0 418.739.6922 www.lenipigon.com With its stunning view of the beach at Sainte Luce sur Mer, the Nipigon serves fish and sea food specialties on its heated patio, with live music on Saturday nights and a 2-bedroom apartment accommodation. Kayaking and diving are also on the menu for outdoor and underwater activities. Café Azimut 309, 4e avenue, G0R 1Z0, La Pocatière 418.856.2411 [email protected] Regional gastronomy or Canadian and vegetarian cooking... The café Azimut delights you with so many delicious specialities ! Comfort Inn Rimouski 455 boul. St-Germain ouest, Rimouski, QC G5L 3P2 418.724.2500 www.comfortinn.com Conveniently located near the Carrefour Rimouski Mall, the Jardin de Métis and the Maison Lamontagne, the Comfort Inn offers free continental breakfast, free locals and high-speed wireless, as well as a business centre. Enjoy their charmingly decorated spacious rooms with cable TV; guide animals accepted. La Marechante 36, rue du Fleuve O., Sainte-Luce, G0K 1P0 418.739.5393 Téléc. : 418.739.5065 gites-classifies.qc.ca/marechante.htm marechante@globetrotter. net On the St. Lawrence River, ancestral house 4 rooms, camping site (22), chalets, in the village center. Le Bec Fin 266, Rue Rochette, G0L3Y0, Saint-Pascal 418.492.3039 With his 35 years of experience, Gilles Guilbert invites you to discover his tasteful menu. You’ll be deligted by his simple but amazing cooking. 242 l GQ GQ l 243 Lower Saint-Lawrence Accomodation & restaurants Brasserie artisanale La Fabrique 360, avenue St-Jérôme Matane, Québec, G4W 3B1 418-566-4020 www.publafabrique.com La Fabrique is an artisanal brewery offering a great selection of local craft beers and imports, pub-style menu including burgers, sandwiches, fish & chips, Belgian fries and appetizers. The place also presents a variety of cultural events. Gîte La Maison aux Flambeaux 319, rang de la Haute-Ville, Kamouraska, G0L 1M0 418.498.3197 lamaisonauxflambeaux.site.voila.fr lamaisonauxflambeaux@hotmail. com Gay B&B open year round, outdoor swimming pool, massage package, 10 tent sites available. Gîte Victoria 77, rue Saint-Pierre, Rimouski, G5L 1T4 418.723.4483 Lovely B&B in the middle of all the attractions of the city of Rimouski. Tourisme Rivère du Loup 189, boulevard de l’Hôtel-de-Ville, Rivière-du-Loup (Québec) G5R 5C4 418.862.1981 1.888.825.1981 [email protected] The tourist office features the Saguenay – St. Lawrence Marine Park Reception and Orientation Centre. Maps,posters and Heritage Tour brochures can be purchased on site. 244 l GQ GQ l 245 Gaspé At the end of the earth The further east you go, the closer the mountains get to the shore, and you start to see the distinct landscape of the Gaspé peninsula. In HauteGaspésie (Upper Gaspé), the proximity of mountains and sea makes Mont-Saint-Pierre the hang-gliding capital, where the multicolored fabric wings add flair all summer. In July, the hang-gliding festival “La Fête du Vol Libre” is becoming a major international gathering for hang-gliding and paragliding. From Mont-Saint-Pierre, you can access the Gaspé National Park. A major highlight for hiking enthusiasts, this park provides access to fantastic mountain terrain. Of the many mountains that cut across the park, you’ll find Québec second highest, Mont Jacques-Cartier. The altitude of these mountains profoundly affects the climate which has made this ecologically a unique place in Québec, and even in the world. Arctic alpine plants and tundra-like landscapes make this the habitat for a troop of woodland caribou, the last remaining survivors of this species south of the St. Lawrence River. On the far eastern tip of the Gaspé region, at Forillon National Park, located just before Gaspé, you’ll find one of the most beautiful seaside beaches in the Gaspé region. Forillon National Park covers a protected area of the Notre-Dame and Mégantic Mountains, as well as preserving 246 l GQ a sample of nature typical of the Gulf of St. Lawrence. The many varieties of sea bird and arctic plants, and the 10 distinct geological types of rock formations lend a unique character to this park. On the human side, the Grande-Grave historical site testifies to the history and livelihood of the region’s many families of fishermen. The region’s major city and namesake, Gaspé is where French colonisation began, with Jacques Cartier’s seizure of land in name of the King of France, in 1534. On the outskirts of the town, gays are known to enjoy the beaches that go by the names Boum Défense and Sandy Beach. Further south, in the direction of the Baie des Chaleurs, Percé and its famous rock are the region’s foremost tourist destination. There is a nude beach at Crevette Rose, in Coin-du-Blanc, located a few kilometers from Percé. In August, this old fishing village hosts the Percéïdes, an international festival of independent cinema and contemporary art that meshes with the landscape, architecture, and natural surroundings of this very special place. Largest cities : Gaspé (15 000 inh.), Chandler (8 000 inh.), Sainte-Annedes-Monts (7 000 inh.). GQ l 247 Les Percéides A celebration of indie film with shooting stars in Percé From August 18 to 20, Percé will once against host the Les Percéides festival for the third year in a row. For three whole days, more than 30 shorts, mid-length and feature films will be shown in every imaginable category for the occasion of this independent film festival. Fiction, animation, comedy, and dramatic films are on the programme which includes works from Québec and around the world that visitors and Gaspé locals would never get to see projected if it weren't for organizer François Cormier, whose dream of bringing cinematic creativity to Percé has made it a must-see in the region. The films are projected in the two halls of the old Centre d'interprétation de la faune de Percé, with four showings each day (2pm, 5pm, 7pm and 9pm). Every feature will be preceded by a short film. Films from Japan, Germany, Israel, the Palestinian Territories, Québec and the Gaspé itself make up a programme that eschews a central theme to embrace the eclecticism of indie cinema. A highlight of the 2011 edition of the festival will be a special event on French auteur cinema, organized in collaboration with the French Consulate. For the occasion, the organizers have chosen to première new works by three young French filmmakers who represent their generation. Last year’s projection of Xavier Dolan’s Heartbeats was greeted with tremendous public acclaim. The young gay actor/director's work showed the Percéides festival's embrace of sexual diversity as well. 2010 also saw the projection of Entre Nous, a documentary about homophobia amongst youth, which shared a programme with Dolan’s Heartbeats. *Percéides also takes place during the ideal time to watch shooting stars in the natural beauty of Percé and the Gaspé. 248 l GQ GQ l 249 The Gaspé François Cormier brings Percé to the World François Cormier has brought a new echelon of cinema to Percé and the entire Gaspé region. The Les Percéides festival has become a major attraction for culture-lovers all over Eastern Québec, giving a special status to this native son. Cormier left his home town to hone his craft in Montréal, and has since returned to his origins, and brought with him the emotions and artistic output normally reserved for major cities. His idea has met general acclaim. With this initiative, François Cormier has shed light on an underrecognized art form that is often considered too obscure for the general public: indie cinema, or auteur cinema as it is known, whether it be local or international. He has also been a major champion of 100% made-inGaspé cinematic work, inspiring young creators to develop their skills and work in their field without having to leave for Montréal or elsewhere to find success. 250 l GQ GQ l 251 Gaspé Accomodation & restaurants Au Pic De L’Aurore 1, route 132, Percé, GOC 2L0 1.866.882.2151 percechalet.com [email protected] Chalets, rooms and house, remote area, spectacular view on the Rock. Auberge Wanta-QO-TI B&B 77, chemin Pointe-Fleurant, Escuminac, G0C 1N0 418.788.5686 bbcanada.com/595.html [email protected] Isolated, unique seaside site, next to Miguasha Park. Au Presbytère (Gîte Touristique – B&B) 47, rue de l’Église Percé, Gaspésie G0C 2L0 418-782-5557/1-866-782-5557 Michel Boudreau www.perce-gite.com [email protected] Manoir De Percé 212, route 132 Ouest, Percé, G0C 2L0 1.800.463.0858 418.782.2022 Téléc. : 418.782.5195 manoirdeperce.com [email protected] In the heart of Percé, facing Percé Rock and Bonaventure Island. Close to the wharf, boutiques, etc. Restaurant classified 3 Diamonds (CAA). Typically gaspesian fine cuisine. A different stay! Nature Océan 418.782.2400 (ou 2181) 1.877.682.2400 natureocean.com [email protected] In Percé, country style cottages and campground with impressive scenery. The cottages in Cap d’Espoir are right on the beach. Maison Carter 146, rue de la Reine, Gaspé, G4X 2R2 418.368.5332 1.877.568.5332 www.lamaisoncarter.com Located in the heart of Gaspe, this charming small hotel offers you 16 premium quality units in a sumptuous environment. The architecture and the decoration give the rooms a special charm. Restaurant Motel Fleur De Lys 184, route 132 Est, Cap-Chat, G0J 1G0 1.888.786.5518 418.786.5518 motelfleurdelys.com [email protected] 252 l GQ GQ l 253 Gaspé Accomodation & services Motel 3 stars and well-known restaurant (Gaspésie Gourmande Award : Médaille Or). Restaurant Le Récif 119, route 132 Ouest, Percé, GOC 2L0 418.782.5119 Téléc. : 418.782.5119 Pasta speciality, regional fishes and very warm ambiance. Wazo 155 route 132 Ouest, Percé, Québec, G0C 2L0 418.782.5700 (summertime) 418.782.5888 From June to September, open everyday from 9am to 9 pm May and October by appointment only www.wazo.biz Wazo is an enterprise that concerns itself primarily with the creation and elaboration of jewelery and decorative objects. Using diverse metals and different stones, it specializes in the fabrication of one-of-a-kind pieces. 256 l GQ GQ l 257 258 l GQ GQ l 259 L’Acadie L’Acadie Pays-de-la-Sagouine © junglekey.fr decouvrir l' acadie Kouchibouguac National Park ©jenniferandnathan.com Discover Acadia Unless you go by plane, visitors to Québec's Iles de la Madeleine, an archipelago in the middle of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, have no choice but to travel through the other Acadian regions of neighbouring New Brunswick and Prince Edward Island. Acadians are close cousins to Québeckers, with a national identity all their own, but with the same roots going back to French colonial rule. After being deported from the area they once occupied around the Bay of Fundy in 1755, the Acadians returns to plant their roots all over the Atlantic, from Louisiana to France, with some finding their way to Maine, Québec, and the other Maritime Provinces. Nowhere have the Acadians maintained a stronger presence and identity than in New Brunswick, where they make up a third of the population. Their distinct national identity can be seen in numerous places where the blue, white and red tricolor flag, branded with a yellow star, is hung in many parts of Canada where the Acadians have settled, and especially around the time of August 15th, when Acadian Day or Tintamarre is celebrated. Whichever way you choose to get there from Québec, you will wind up discovering either the northern or eastern part of New Brunswick. You may take the Trans-Canada after crossing through the Témiscouata district of Québec and the Saint John River valley all the way to Moncton. Or you can take the equally scenic Route 11 via Matapédia, which goes along the Gulf coast, both of which lead you into Acadian lands. 260 l GQ Tourists are usually drawn to the beaches of the province’s South East, where the sea water is known for being the warmest north of Virginia. On the Bay of Fundy coast, you can observe the world’s highest tides, which reveal impressive tidal flats twice a day along the coast, and even in downtown Moncton, the region’s largest urban agglomeration. This bilingual city is almost a third francophone, and is home to many Acadian institutions such as the Université de Moncton. As a major hub city for rail and car transport to Nova Scotia and the Gulf islands, Moncton is likewise New Brunswick’s main centre for LGBT life. This year, Moncton is hosting a gay pride (called City Pride) on an international scale from August 17 to 21, just after Acadian Days. Only 20 km from Moncton, the charming seaside town of Shédiac and Cap-Pelé boast two of the region's most beautiful beaches, such as Parlee Beach. If you travel via Matapédia on Route 11, you'll drive through the main French speaking areas of the Acadian peninsula and the Baie des Chaleurs, before making your way to the South East, past the Miramichi River. The Acadian Peninsula is home to the bulk of the population, with around 100,000 inhabitants. The proud little town of Caraquet, with its historic Acadian village, is the heart and soul of the region famous for its gorgeous beaches and warm, friendly locals. Renowned pop singer Édith Butler hails from the town of Pacquetville, which you may come across on your journey. Back in the South East, you won’t want to miss visiting Kouchibouguac National Park, which has some of New Brunswick’s most beautiful beaches. In Bouctouche, hometown of playwright laureate Antonine Maillet, you’ll find the historical theme park Le Pays de la Sagouine, inspired by the author’s feisty iconic character. This is also the area of New Brunswick where the Confederation Bridge links the province to Prince Edward Island, where you can catch the ferry that takes you to the Magdalene Islands. GQ l 261 L’Acadie L’Acadie Antonine_maillet © films.onf.ca Auberge Inn Thyme 310, rue Main, Shédiac, NB, E4P 2E3 506.532.6098 / 1.877.466.8496 www.innthyme.com A seven-room inn with a/c and private bath. The restaurant serves home-made dinners and dessert under a large outdoor covered terrace. Breakfast in the dining room. Auberge Le Vieux Presbytère de Bouctouche 157, chemin du Couvent Bouctouche, NB, E4S 3B8 506.743.5568 / 1.866-743.1880 www.vieuxpresbytere.nb.ca Built in 1880, this former rectory has a magnificent ocean view. 16 rooms, 2 suites, a restaurant and chapel for celebrating gay weddings. Just minutes from the Pays de la Sagouine and the Irving Eco-centre. Antonine Maillet: Acadian Laureate Auberge Au Bois Dormant 67, rue John, Moncton, NB, E1C 2H2 506.855.6767 / 1.866.856.6767 www.auberge-auboisdormant.com This inn offers luxury rooms, loft-style studios in a century-old home in downtown Moncton. Three course breakfasts. Is there any name more closely associated with Acadian culture than that of Antonine Maillet? When she created the now legendary character La Sagouine in the early 1970s, Maillet elevated Acadian French from slang to literature. A people without a defined territory, the Acadians are a French speaking population born by the Canadian Atlantic. Café Clémentine 241, boulevard Saint-Georges, Moncton, E1C 1W2 506.384.4782 A little café that makes superb coffee and fresh yummy food in a relaxed atmosphere with local artwork exhibited on the walls. After obtaining her PhD in literature from the Université Laval in 1970, Antonine Maillet taught literature and folklore at her alma mater, and later in Montréal from 1971 to 1976. She later worked for the French CBC (Radio-Canada) as a screen-writer and radio host in Moncton . In 1976, she was honored as an Officer of the Order of Canada and was made a Companion of the Order in 1981. Her novel Pélagie-la-Charette (Pélagie-the-Cart), which tells the story of the Expulsion, i.e. the deportation of the Acadians by the British in 1755, won her the Prix Goncourt, which gives her the distinction as the only non-European (shared only with Atiq Rahimi) to have won the coveted literature prize. In the same year, the City of Outremont, which Maillet now calls home, renamed the rue Wilder avenue Antonine Maillet in honour of her Goncourt award, which is the equivalent to the Pulitzer or Booker Prize in France. La Téraz 154, rue Church Moncton, NB. E1C 4Z7 (506) 854-0220 www.lateraz.com This oasis of nature in the heart of Moncton has art galleries that can host any kind of event, as well as an outdoor pool patio. The space can be rented for a wedding or any other fun or romantic event. In 1985, she was made an Officer of the Ordre des Arts et Lettres de France, and in 2005, was inducted into the Order of New Brunswick. Chancellor of the Université de Moncton, she is the author of many successful novels and plays. Her work is always inspired by the folklore and history of l'Acadie. In Ginette Pellerin’s biographical documentary on Maillet, Les possibles sont infinis, the author spoke for the first time publicly about Mercédes Palomino, the love or her life, and cofounder (with Yvette Brind’amour) of Montréal's Théâtre du Rideau Vert, where the first production of La Sagouine was mounted in 1972. 262 l GQ Laundromat EspressoBar 382 B, boulevard Saint-Georges, moncton. NB, E1C 1X2 506.382.6272 This coffee bar is the favorite hang-out of Moncton’s francophone arts community. A menu of local charcuteries, micro-brew beers from around the world. Rivière de Fierté www.fiertemonctonpride.ca This non-profit organisation puts on Moncton’s LGBT Pride celebrations from August 17-21. Triangles 234, boulevard Saint-Georges, Moncton, NB, E1C 1V9 506.857.8779 www.trianglesbar.com For almost 20 years, this bar has been the most popular LGBT club in Moncton. With its large dance floor, dozen resident drag queens, their theme and karaoke nights, Triangles has something for everyone. Open Thurs-Sun. GQ l 263 Plages et Falaises Îles-De-La-Madeleine © Wikipedia.com The Magdalen Islands Gîte B&B La Butte Ronde 70, chemin des Buttes, Havre-aux-Maisons, G4T 5L3 418.969.2047 1.866.969.2047 labutteronde.com Roomy B&B classifi ed 4 soleils, rooms with bathroom, view on the water. Gîte les Bons Garçons 707, rte 199 Havre-aux-Maisons (Qc), Canada G4T 5A7 1 418 969-4764 [email protected] The Jewel of the Gulf Tourisme Îles-de-la-Madeleine 128, ch. Principal, Cap-aux-Meules, G4T 1C5 (418)986-4841 1-877-624-4437 Fax : (418)986-2327 www.tourismeilesdelamadeleine.com [email protected] Visit the tourism office of the Magdelen Islands to get all the info you need about the activities going on during your stay. In the very middle of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, the Magdalen Islands are a real jewel in Québec’s crown. Extending over 65 km from north to south, this archipelago of islands is linked by sand dunes, with sandstone cliffs of grey and red, and expanses of farmland to complete the picture. The Islands boast almost 300 km of fine sandy beaches, the most beautiful in all of Atlantic Canada. Although part of Québec, the Magdalen Islands are culturally closer to the Acadians. Indeed, most of the population are descendants from Acadian deportees from the 18th century. Don’t be surprised if you see the blue-white-and-red starred flag of the Acadians side by side with Québec’s fleur-de-lis. The Madelinots, as they are called, are on Atlantic Time (AST), as are the other Acadian communities of the Gulf, i.e. an hour later than the rest of Québec, which is on Eastern Standard (EST). Naturally, this hospitable sandbank in the middle of the Gulf has for centuries been the home of fisherman and their families, and the fishery pervades the culture here. Off the coast, unseen but somehow felt, 713 shipwrecks constitute the largest ocean cemetery in North America. Isolated as it is from the mainland, you can only get there by plane or boat. A ferry links this scenic spit of sand to Prince Edward Island, so you have to cross Québec and New Brunswick in order to get to the Magdalen Islands by car. 264 l GQ GQ l 265 266 l GQ GQ l 267 268 l GQ