Tuscany
Transcription
Tuscany
28/12/2011 THE FACES OF TUSCANY – 2012 HOTELS In Florence hotel Villa Liana* www.hotelliana.com In Siena agriturismo l’Aia* www.aia.sienaholidays.com In Follonica hotel Piccolo Mondo* www.piccolomondohotel.it In Manciano agriturismo il Quarto* www.agriturismoilquarto.it *or similar accomodations Introduction Tuscany is a region in Central Italy. It has an area of about 23,000 square kilometres (8,900 sq mi) and a population of about 3.7 million inhabitants. The regional capital is Florence. Tuscany is known for its beautiful landscapes, its rich artistic legacy and vast influence on high culture. Tuscany is widely regarded as the true birthplace of the Italian Renaissance, and has been home to some of the most influential people in the history of arts and science, such as Petrarch, Dante, Botticelli, Michelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci, Galileo Galilei, Amerigo Vespucci, Luca Pacioli and Puccini. Due to this, the region has several museums (such as the Uffizi, the Pitti Palace and the Chianciano Museum of Art). Tuscany has a unique culinary tradition, and is famous for its wines (most famous of which are Chianti, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Morellino di Scansano and Brunello di Montalcino). Six Tuscan localities have been designated World Heritage Sites: the historic centre of Florence (1982), the historical centre of Siena (1995), the square of the Cathedral of Pisa (1987), the historical centre of San Gimignano (1990), the historical centre of Pienza (1996) and the Val d'Orcia (2004). Furthermore, Tuscany has over 120 protected nature reserves. Roughly triangular in shape and situated between the northern part of the Tyrrhenian Sea and the central Apennines, surrounded and crossed by major mountain chains, and with few (but very fertile) plains, the region has a relief that is dominated by hilly country. Most of the work done here is farming. Whereas mountains cover 25% of the total area, and plains a mere 8.4% of the total area, almost all coinciding with the valley of the River Arno, summing for 1,930 square kilometres (750 sq mi), — overall hills make up two-thirds 1 (66.5%) of the region's total area, covering 15,292 square kilometres (5,904 sq mi). The climate, which is fairly mild in the coastal areas, is harsher and rainy in the interior, with considerable fluctuations in temperature between winter and summer giving the region a soil building active freeze-thaw cycle in part accounting for the region once having served as a key breadbasket of ancient Rome. Day 1 Florence Morning Santa Maria del Fiore, Dome and Baptistery of St John, Palazzo della Signoria and Loggia dei Lanzi, Uffizi, Ponte Vecchio. Lunch Tipical sandwich Fiorentino. Afternoon Quarters Santo Spirito, Palazzo Pitti Relax at Boboli’s gardens and old shops. Dinner Wine and Cellars in Florence, wine Tasting and dinner from the florentine tradition. Florence Almost 10% of the world's art treasure is located in Florence. Piazza Duomo, facing the cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, begun by Arnolfo di Cambio in 1296 but only in 1436 crowned with the masterpiece of Filippo Brunelleschi. His Cupola (dome) is the symbol of Florence, a daring and majestic structure from the top of which you will get a wonderful panoramic view of the city, and also of the interior of the cathedral. Beside the façade stands another giant, Giotto’s campanile (bell tower), slender and many-coloured, also affording a fine view of the city. Opposite the façade of the Duomo is the more ancient Baptistery of St John, with its famous bronze doors. We will follow the animated Via dei Calzaiuoli and will reach Piazza della Signoria, the political heart of Florence. Here rises the late 13th-century Palazzo della Signoria or Palazzo Vecchio, which is the seat of the Commune of Florence as well as 2 being a museum. Flanking the piazza is the 14th-century Loggia dei Lanzi, in which there are such world-renowned statues. Adjoining Palazzo Vecchio is the imposing pile of the Uffizi, designed by Vasari in the 16th century as the seat of the Chancellery of the ruling Medici family, and now one of the most important museums in the world. The Gallery houses paintings ranging from the primitives (Cimabue, Giotto) to the Mannerist period, and is a complete compendium of Renaissance painting. Ponte Vecchio One of the symbols of the city, the bridge has survived the ravages of war and the flooding of the Arno, and ever since 1500 has been home to famous goldsmiths’ shops. After crossing the bridge we are in “Oltrarno”, beyond the Arno, a very important matter in Florence. Of the four historical quarters of Florence, three San Giovanni, Santa Maria Novella and Santa Croce, are on “this” side of the Arno, and only one, Santo Spirito, on the other. The road straight ahead from the Ponte Vecchio brings us to Piazza Pitti, dominated by the majestic façade of Palazzo Pitti. Of 15th-century origin. Boboli Gardens. It was enlarged and enhanced with a marvellous park, the Palazzo Pitti is the seat of numerous museums, and the garden itself is one of them. We will make for Piazza Santa Spirito: you will enjoy the lively atmosphere of this part of the city. It is home to numerous crafts, and has a genuine spirit of its own. Piazza Santo Spirito itself, one of the few city squares with trees in it, is surrounded by fine palaces in addition to the church, designed by Filippo Brunelleschi in 1444. Besides the linear purity of its architecture, the building contains important works of art. 3 Day 2 Morning Florence Train station and Basilica of Santa Maria Novella, Oficina perfume and farmaceutical. Palazzo Strozzi. Lunch Afternoon Cheese tasting. St. Lorenzo and Monastery of San Marco, Library Mediceo Laurenziana. Galleria dell'Accademia, Spedale of Innocenti, Church of Santissima Annunziata. Aperitif Florence stile. Dinner After dinner T-bone steak “Fiorentina” at Perseus. Movie about Florence … Oficina perfume and farmaceutical Not far from the train station of Santa Maria Novella, a masterpiece of 20th-century rationalist architecture, stands the basilica after which it is named Santa Maria Novella is the 13th-century church of the Dominican Order, with a fine façade in green and white marble. The Gothic interior is very beautiful, with numerous frescoes and masterpieces of Renaissance art. Through narrow, picturesque alleys you reach Via Tornabuoni, the most fashionable shopping street in Florence, onto which backs the great Palazzo Strozzi, one of the outstanding Renaissance buildings in the city. Two places with Palazzo Medici close ties to this Palace are the nearby church of San Lorenzo and the Monastery of San Marco. The Museum housed in the monastery is remarkable for the Renaissance frescoes of Beato Angelico, while the Library is a masterwork of Michelozzo. Just off Piazza San Marco is the Galleria dell’Accademia, one of the most frequented of Florentine museums because it contains Michelangelo’s 4 celebrated David. Yet the museum also houses other interesting sculptures by the same artist and a fine range of Tuscan paintings from the 13th to the 16th century. The Spedale degli Innocenti, the work of Filippo Brunelleschi. Originally intended for the acceptance and care of abandoned children, as early as 1440 it contained a museum and has many rooms of great artistic interest. The church of the Santissima Annunziata was built in the mid 13th century. Day 3 Mugello by train: Marradi and Borgo San Lorenzo Morning Marradi station Old town and Campana museum. Chestnut Festival “ Marron”. Lunch Tipical local food. Lunch during the Festival. Afternoon Borgo St. Lorenzo station Old town and Liberty itinerary, Museum of Chini Manufacture Museum of peasant life in Mugello Erci and Mill Faini . Dinner In Firenze Locanda del Borgo Antico. Mugello by train Marradi The first inhabited nucleus of Marradi was born on the right bank of the Lamone river, built in Roman times (maybe in 59 BC). In the Middle Ages it passed under the dominion of the Church State and this is in fact when the numerous churches and abbeys of the zone were founded. After a long period of struggles between Guelphs and Ghibellines, Marradi passed under Florentine protection in the XV century: the fighting between the Florentine Republic and the powerful Medici family represented a dark time for the town that flourished again under the guide of the Lorena family. Once politically stabilised Marradi became an important trade centre thanks to its halfway position between Florence and Romagna. 5 Such an eventful history has left the town of Marradi with a picturesque aspect typical of the Mugello villages, with its various styles of building illustrating the history of the town throughout the centuries: you can visit a church of Romanic foundations, such as the Village Abbey, or the Archpriest’s Church of St. Laurence. Reconstructed in 1785 in a neoclassic form the church conserves three panels that made up part of a 16th Century polyptych and that show St. Laurence, the Madonna with Child and St. John the Evangelist. Lovers of late 17th century architecture can visit the Town Hall, or the beautiful Teatro degli Animosi, that are just a few of the buildings of historic and artistic interest present in Marradi. In October the town is alive with the festivals that celebrate the famously delicious chestnuts that are a typical speciality of the town. Borgo San Lorenzo was founded around the court of the Ubaldini family, in a place where an ancient Roman village once stood. Historically, it has always been the most important town in the Mugello area thanks to its strategic position. After the dominion of the Florentine Bishops, against which the town rebelled in 1273, Borgo San Lorenzo became a municipality. As the Mugello was a land of transit, this town saw much fighting over the centuries, right up until the end of World War 2. The town was destroyed and rebuilt many times and today, very little remains of the midfourteenth century walls that once surrounded the town. The town centre has been completely historically restored. Its strategic importance and its ancient origins have considerably contributed to making Borgo San Lorenzo a fascinating town to visit. There are numerous sacred buildings of great artistic interest in the municipality such as the Abbey of St. Lawrence, the Parish of St. Cresci in Valcava (on a hilltop in an amazing position along the road that leads to Sagginale) and the Oratory of the Madonna of the Three 6 Rivers which was built in a place where it is said an image of the Madonna was seen. Inside this church there is a sixteenth century “Madonna with Child”. It is also possible to visit the Municipal building which today is the seat of the Town Hall, Villa Pecori Giraldi built in the thirteenth century and with stupendous Liberty interiors that host the Museum of Chini Manufacture. Day 4 Chianti tour from Florence to Siena Morning Rufina, Villa Poggio Reale and Wine museum. Chianti tasting. Lunch Tipical “ciaccino senese”. Afternoon Siena and Middle Ages in Tuscany between towers, museum and old buildings. Dinner Historical Osteria l'antica Osteria Le Logge. After dinner Drink in Piazza del Campo and Siena Jazz. Chianti area Rufina is located in a hilly area famous for producing excellent wine: Chianti. Some sites of interest around the municipality of Rufina are the Villa Budini, Falgano Castle and the churches of Santo Stefano and San Bartolomeo. Rufina Castle is the oldest part of the town. It was owned by the influential bishop of Fiesole in the thirteenth century. Villa Poggio Reale is the symbol of the territory of Rufina County, it’s composed of the Villa itself, the aristocratic chapel, the guest-rooms, and the lemon-house; in the cellars of the Villa there is the “Vine and Wine Museum”, connected with some educational work-shops. Parts of the cellars have been transformed into a beautiful “Enoteca”, that is a stock of vintage wines. The Villa is surrounded by a large forest of evergreen plants, called “Ragnaia”, by a long cypress avenue, by vineyards and orchards. Wine is a very important part of the culture of the Rufina and Pomino territory, and the Vine 7 and Wine Museum was created to give evidence to such importance. In the Museum you’ll find the description of the various aspects both of the vine-growing and the wine-making, as well as many elements concerning the production, such as the coopershop, the bottling, the labelling and the preservation. The exhibition runs through rooms that describe the various moments of the vine cultivation, up to the wine-making, and the old and modern objects linked to this processing. The visit will be combined with the tasting of Chianti Rufina wine. Siena is a synonym for ‘high quality lifestyles’. It was the first Municipality in Europe to close its center to traffic in 1966. Siena is a place of international culture. Its university is 750 years old and it hosts several noteworthy institutions. In this city, everything has remained unchanged for centuries, and with an ‘atmosphere’ that cannot be found elsewhere, because its people truly maintain the traditions of their ancestors. The tradition of the Palio, for example, is celebrated and renewed each year with the same renowned power and enthusiasm. Siena has Etruscan origins; it was a Roman colony whose name was ‘Sena Julia’. Its importance grew considerably in the Middle Ages, first with Lombards and later, under Carolingian leadership. After a long period of Episcopal dominion (from the 9th to the 11th century), the city reached the peak of power and became a municipality in 1147. During this period, 8 Siena adopted expansionistic policies towards bordering territories. Confrontation with Florence was inevitable and due to various vicissitudes, their struggle lasted until 1555. In that year, after a long siege, Siena was conquered by the Florentines. Thus, the city lost its autonomy and became part of the Grand Duchy of Tuscany, sharing the Duchy’s destiny until the Unification of Italy in 1861. Day 5 Chianti tour: Monteriggioni, Colle Val d’Elsa, San Gimignano Morning Monteriggioni, Colle Val d'Elsa and San Gimignano. Lunch Monteriggioni during the festival. Afternoon Monteriggioni and Middle Ages commemoration into the castle. Dinner Osteria di Donatella. After dinner Chianti Festival: perfect mix of music, wine and food with the charm of the village as its setting. Monteriggioni In the year 1000 was already a thriving town. The castle however, wasn’t built till 1213. It was built by the Republic of Siena who wanted it to be a kind of defensive outpost on the main road between Florence and Siena. It was one of the first castles built by the Siense who, until then, had always used the fortresses of weak feudal families. This castle has two large entrances, one known as ‘romea’ which opened onto the road to Siena and another that faced Florence. The castle had several important defensive elements, such as the ‘carbonaie’ which were kept full of coal and could be set alight when needed in order to keep the enemy far from the castle walls. There are portcullises, towers and a second entrance that creates an anti-chamber for the Fiorentina Gate. Between 1244 and 1269 Florence tried many times to invade the town without success. During the XIV century, the castle and surrounding town remained firmly in the hands of Siena, despite being weakened by the plague and an attempted invasion by a group of Sienese exiles in 1383 which failed due to lack of support from Florence. Nonetheless, the invention of gunpowder and the subsequent creation of the artillery made the castle much more vulnerable to attack. The walls were lowered and 9 the ‘carbonaie’ were eliminated. Monteriggioni modernised its structure and was able to withstand the siege of 1554 by Papal troops who were historical allies of the Florentine Republic. However, shortly after this success, the town was betrayed by Captain Zeti who handed the town over to the Florentines without any kind of battle. This totally altered the balance between Florence and Siena and Florentine Medici troops were able to go on to take over the Sienese Republic. The inhabitants of the castle were utterly humiliated and deported. The region came under the rule of the Grand Duchy of Tuscany and stayed that way right up to the unification of Italy. Both Monteriggioni's exterior walls and the buildings within are some the best preserved in all of Italy. Colle Val d’Elsa San Gimignano In this council you can admire the churches of St. Iacopo and St. Peter, the Collegiate of St. Mary’s Assumption with the Chapel of St. Fina, the Cathedral, the Museum of Sacred Art, the Podestà Palace and the Pratellesi Palace. In ancient times San Gimignano was a tiny village in the Greek-Etruscan period (III-II centuries BC). There is however some evidence of a more remote presence. The sacred area of Pugliano, still visible in the valley of the Riguardi river, seems in fact to date back to the Archaic-Etruscan era. The legend about the foundation of the city instead attributes its birth to the settlement of Silvio, one of the Roman 10 patricians who fled after the failed plot against Catiline. The year of foundation would be 63 BC, with the rising of the Silvia village. By medieval times Silvia was consolidated and took the name of the Bishop of Modena Gimignano, who it is said foiled the invasion of the town by Totila’s barbaric hordes with his apparition. Thanks to the Via Francigena, San Gimignano saw the development of a growing number of churches and convents in the surrounding area. The route, opened by the Longobards along the ancient Via Cassia and subsequently controlled by the Franks, represents an authentic thoroughfare that links Northern Europe to Rome. In 1199 the city became an autonomous council, freeing itself of the dominion of the bishopric of Volterra. In this era the village suffered internal divisions between Papal-supporting Guelphs and Empire-supporting Ghibellines, who caused a real “civil war” in the territory. Among the numerous diplomats welcomed to the city to resolve the fratricide that was storming Tuscany was Dante Alighieri (year 1300). The plague in the mid-14th century aggravated the socio-economic crisis in the village which, in 1354, accepted submission to the authority of the Florentine Republic. From that moment San Gimignano became one of the most important centres of the Florentine county, despite its obvious demographic decline. Of the 13,000 inhabitants at the beginning of the 14th century only 3,000 remained at the end of the 15th century. The degradation of its social make-up and the fall in the number of inhabitants meant that construction did not particularly interfere in the structure of the town centre. In recent times, therefore, the citizens of San Gimignano have realized an authentic, valuable, open-air, artistic heritage. With all of its medieval structure still intact, the council has been recently added to the list of UNESCO-protected heritages. Day 6 Maremma natural park and Follonica Morning Regional Park Uccellina. Lunch Picnic lunch. Afternoon Photo competition into the park and nature trail. Dinner Arca in Follonica. After dinner Musical entertainment. 11 Regional Park Uccellina. Visiting Maremma means to be in contact with nature. The Maremma is outstanding for its many protected natural areas that offer the chance to appreciate its wide variety of animals, insects and birds, trees, shrubs and flowers and to enjoy its special light and scenic beauty. The Nature Reserves aren't separate from the rest of the territory, but are symbolic of an integral whole. The Maremma affirms a way of life in harmony with nature and the rhythm of the seasons. The Natural Park encompasses of the Maremma Monti dell'Uccellina was one of the first protected areas instituted in Italy. Today the Province of Grosseto can boast of 13 Nature Reserves, an additional 8 which include Reserves for Repopulation, Biogenetics, Protection and Comprehensive Protection, plus the various oasis of the WWF. In all, there are almost 40,000 hectares of nature reserves stretching from north to south. They provide a complex and detailed vision of the wealth of the Maremma's natural heritage in all of its diversity from coast to inland, wet zones and mountain crests. The numerous routes indicated within the parks enable the visitor to perceive the vastness of the preservation project and the 12 botanical, zoological and geological wealth, differentiation, and beauty offered. Day 7 The Maremma: Sorano and Pitigliano Morning Sorano, local craft market and food-and-wine tasting. Lunch Tasting. Afternoon The Pitigliano tufa labyrinth and the “Torciata of St Joseph”. “Sfratti” tasting in Pitigliano. Dinner Cooking lesson “la cucina Maremmana”. Sorano and the surrounding towns are filled with examples of their Etruscan origin, which dates back to the period of this civilization’s greatest splendor. Sorano was built on a high rock and this extremely picturesque position captivates all who visit it. With the passage of time, it has come to resemble a natural cliff, only slightly refined by the Renaissance architecture. The girding wall served to make it one of the safest outposts in the County of Pitigliano. Sorano belonged to the Aldobrandeschi family, who developed it as a defensive position, fortifying it with the walls that still surround the village today. Subsequently it passed under the dominion of the Orsini family, who built a beautiful fortress, the most interesting monument in the village. In the middle of the 1400s, it became the site of conflicts. it became the theatre of the conflict with the Sienese Republic without ever being taken. This prompted Cosimo dei Medici's nickname for it as the "tinderbox of Italian wars". In 1608, it fell definitively under the domain of the Grand duchy of Tuscany. Continuity with the past is still alive, and the antique peasant culture has retained its main activities. Vineyards, scrub, olive groves, fields of wheat and sheep farming surround the town. As a result of this agricultural vocation, the area is incrgeasingly renowned for the high-quality of traditional Maremman products. This includes an important dairy production. The entire surrounding territory abounds in medieval fortifications, such as the Castle of Montorio, the Citadel of Castell’Ottieri and the castle of Montebuono. The 13 archeological park, “Città del Tufo” is very unique because the area’s major historical, archeological and cultural treasures of the territory are found here: the church of San Sebastiano, the Aldobrandeschi fortress and the necropolis excavated in the rock, surrounded by the marvels of nature. Antique tombs stand out, especially noteworthy is the monumental Ildebranda. Regarded as the masterpiece of all of the tombs, it represents the passage from archaic Etruria to that which will soon succumb to Rome and its empire. There are also tombs excavated in the rock walls, enveloped and protected by thick vegetation, which increases their fascination and mystery. The most famous is the Siren’s Tomb. These grottos, discovered near Sorano and Vitozza, are almost unadorned compared to the others, but are equally fascinating. They were probably originally used for raising pigeons or as incinerators, and later in Roman and Medieval times, were turned into dwellings, stalls or cellars. Pitigliano seems to have been taken out of a fairytale. It appears to have grown from the stone of this wildly beautiful promontory, bounded by green valleys crossed by the Lente and Meleta rivers. The high walls of volcanic tufa, carved out by a thousand caverns, project a series of tower-houses, thus heightening the picturesque feel of this medieval town. The houses, constructed on a tuffaceous drum, repeat the vertical lines of the cliffs, making the enclosing walls almost superfluous, although the defensive structures, such as the 14th century Orsini Palace, are the most imposing. The town still holds the treasures of its ancient past, the centuries of succeeding civilizations and their cultures: the Rinaldian eneolithic period; the Etruscan tombs discovered in the surrounding territory or along the city walls; the Roman origin of the antique “Gens Petilia”; the Medieval Aldobandeschi family that ruled the Maremma for almost half a millennium; the noble Orsini family in the Renaissance, followed briefly by the Sienese, then the Medici, and their heirs, the Lorraine who initiated a notable urban development and stimulated an important phase of modernization. This illustrious past becomes present while walking the old streets, admiring the ancient houses and visiting the famous Jewish ghetto. The large and active Jewish community, dating back from the 15th century, has prompted the name “Little Jerusalem” for this splendid village. After important works of restoration, the Synagogue is again open for worship. The Synagogue, the Hebrew 14 cemetery, the kosher oven where unleavened bread was baked, the cellar carved in the rock where kosher wine was produced, the kosher butcher shop, the baths for the purification of the women and the cleaners are all open to the public. The richness of the past has been handed down in wine production, as well. The vineyards, fertilized by volcanic tufa and millennium-old humus, produce one of the most highly regarded white wines in Italy, one of the first wines to receive the recognition of DOC. Several of the grottos and Etruscan tombs carved into the rock are used as cellars for ageing and preserving these wines. The same respect for tradition holds true in the production of the extraordinary, cold-pressed olive oil, which when combined with the wine, make the culinary dishes of Pitigliano even more delicious. Torciata of St. Joseph is held every year. In the evening, a group of men dressed in habits, carry bundles of lighted reeds on their shoulders. There, the reeds and a puppet representing the “Harsh Winter” are burned, creating a spell-binding effect. Day 8 Maremma: Saturnia therme and Argentario Morning Walking-lesson about aromatic plants and fruits grown in Maremma with a natural guide Lunch Lunch cooked with the harvest of the day Afternoon Saturnia Aperitif with a wonderful view of Porto Santo Stefano Dinner La Ribotta. After dinner Musical entertainment and Karaoke Saturnia. According to the Etruscans and Romans legend, the Terme of Saturnia was formed by lightning bolts, thrown by Jupiter. During a violent quarrel between the two mythological deities, the bolts thrown towards Saturn had missed, causing the formations. The sulphurous spring water, at a temperature of 37.5 °C, are well-known for their therapeutic properties, offering relaxation and wellbeing through 15 immersion. The main thermal waterfalls are the Mill Falls, located at an old mill as well as the Waterfalls of Gorello. The yield of the source is about 800 litres per second, which guarantees an optimal replacement of water. The chemical make-up is sulphur, carbon, sulphate, bicarbonatealkaline, earth, with the presence of hydrogen sulphide gas and carbon dioxide. The minerals dissolved in water amount to 2.79 grams per litre. The area of Saturnia Spa presents, as a whole, a large area where it has developed the famed luxury spa of Terme of Saturnia, where, in addition to various thermal treatments, also produces thermal perfumes and creams for men and women. Argentario Porto Santo Stefano 16