A History of Kitchen Furnishing, Erzurum, Turkey
Transcription
A History of Kitchen Furnishing, Erzurum, Turkey
A History of Kitchen Furnishing, Erzurum, Turkey Seçil ŞATIR [email protected] Oya KARABEKİR [email protected] Zeynep KARABEKİR [email protected] The Erzurum house is a synthesis of Central Asian Turkish culture, and one of the geographical and cultural characteristics of Anatolia. It is generally accessed through a court. The kitchen is situated on the ground floor. In ancient Anatolian architecture dating from prehistoric times the coexistence of washing and laundry rooms and kitchen reflect a rich past. Throughout Anatolia the hearth is a significant element of the traditional Turkish kitchen. In Turkish houses in Anatolia, except those of Erzurum, the kitchen ranks behind hall and rooms in importance; however, severe and long winters in Erzurum have dictated an interior-centered architecture. Thus a plan without a hall, but with an inner court and “tandırevı” has emerged. The Erzurum kitchen has a dome-like ceiling known as a “kirlangic (dovetail) dome ceiling.” This type of dome is known to be related to Turkish “otag” or tents, and the traditional Turkish “round tent” house. Moreover cosmic beliefs are known to play a part in such construction. The recognition of this local yet very interesting space and its furnishings of Turkish culture on the international design platform serves to stimulate awareness of design and culture. Keywords: Old Erzurum Kitchens, Dovetail ceiling construction, Seki (raised platform), Terek (shelves) product on the international design platform and to strengthen the respect for local cultures and Introduction products by the design community; this will also contribute to the conception and realization of new Erzurum, a city in Northeastern Turkey which lays products. on the Silk Road, has developed its own traditional architectural form owing to its location in quite a cold region with long winters. From this perspective the Erzurum kitchen differs from the The roots of fhe Turkish house and its general traditions of other Turkish houses and has, through caracteristics the centuries, lent itself to the development of many characteristics unlike those of other cities. The oldest shelter in Central Asian culture as used These characteristics and differences, and the by Turks is the tent, especially the most practical reasons for them are discussed and described, with and widely used round tent. The round tent was a comparisons of typical features. The objective is to round portable house, which has a practical ensure the recognition of this authentic cultural dome-shaped roof, made of laths, which, placed Design Discourse vol.1 no.1, January 2005 44 A History of Kitchen Furnishing, Erzurum, Turkey Şatır, Karabekir and Karabekir diagonally, also form a portative wall around the cold, and this also provided external security for house. All the furniture used in the round tent the house. Next in importance to the court were the consisted of practical objects suitable for carrying rooms of the house. The houses had a living room, on horseback. Art historians usually claim that the a hall, food store room and a stable.” 3 dome-shaped tombs (kümbet) found in Turkistan and Anatolia derived from the shapes of old In his book entitled The Migration of Altay-Iran Turkish tents such as the round tent. Houses used Tribes Strzygowski writes of the impact of Turkish for worship or as mortuaries in the Tarım Region art upon Islamic art and says also that the Iranians in the south of Eastern Turkistan, populated made principally by Uygurs, also used to be built on the accomplishments in Islamic art, especially in the model of the traditional tents. In death rites the plastic arts; concluding that the Mediterranean and dead person was always kept in a tent and a consequently European art did not have any ceremony offering sacrifice was held. 1 a major contribution to Arab definitive influence on Turkish Islamic art. The roofs of old Turkish tents symbolized the sky; “Turkish art dates back to a distant past. Neither cosmic beliefs inspiring the dome shape. The Iran, Iraq, Syria, Egypt and ancient Anatolia nor hearth was situated in the center of the tent that Byzantium could alter the essence of the Turkish was synonymous with the house for the Turks. In a art,” he says. section on the right, partitioned off by a suitable architecture, drawing on this deep-rooted past, element, foodstuffs such as kumiss in skins and were carried wherever the Turkish people migrated, other provisions were kept. Right next to this and originated in their way of life and beliefs. 4 Turkish art and particularly section the oldest member of the household had his bed on a wooden platform. Opposite the entrance The Turkish house reached its most developed and behind the hearth was a storage area called stage with its typical characteristics in Anatolia yüklük where all the mattresses were stacked. after the arrival in 1071 of the Turks in Anatolia Harnesses were stored to the left of the entrance. If and their subsequent settlement throughout the a daughter-in-law also lived in the household then area. From the 15th century on the Turkish house the son and his bride had their beds spread in this replaced other types and reached its most part. 2 In Ottoman times army encampments influential stage in the 17th and 18th centuries. It included special tents housing kitchens, baths, became the principle style of house in the Balkans. lavatories, stables and prison cells, and the sultan's tent was in the shape of a large room hung with “The principal element linking different types of valuable fabrics and furnished with portable carved Turkish houses to one another is its plan. The sofas with collapsible sides. structure, nature and the integrity of a house are embodied in its plan; its economical and social Knowledge about the architectural tradition of status are also reflected in the plan. In this respect Central Asian Turks relating to houses other than the first task to be taken up in the study of a house tents is available from Uygur houses and wall type is its plan.”5 frescos. Bahattin Ögel mentions that most Uygur houses had a court like those of the Southern The rooms in the plan of Turkish house open onto Anatolian houses: “The rooms were situated a hall that is used as a common space and also for around a court; so protecting them from heat and passage; it is a place where the household gathers, Design Discourse vol.1 no.1, January 2005 45 A History of Kitchen Furnishing, Erzurum, Turkey Şatır, Karabekir and Karabekir and wedding ceremonies, entertainments etc. are arranged in small units to make room for the new held. The hall has an eyvan [recess] for sitting, couples. The fact that entrance to Turkish house is with seats supported on consoles, which extend through a court ensures the security of the house as from the facade of the house, or seats on a platform well as leaving behind the dirt of the street in the raised a few steps from floor level. The plan types court, for shoes are taken off in the court and house of the Turkish houses are classified as A-plan with members wear slippers of their own. Wooden no hall, B-plan with outer hall, C-plan with inner slippers (takunya) placed in lavatories in the court 6 hall, and D-plan with central hall. These plans serve to ensure cleanliness. The Turkish room has need to be described for an understanding of the no movable furniture. All furniture is designed and comparison with the Erzurum kitchen, the typical produced as an integral part of the walls of the differences and consequently the arrangement of room. furniture and other objects used in the Turkish house. Some house plans may also exist which do Archeologist Mahmut Akok describes the classical not fall into this classification. With the adoption Ankara Turkish house and rooms as follows: ”... of Islam the main living rooms in Turkish houses the architecture dictates that each room has a were (private built-in fireplace, usually made of gypsum. Big apartments) and selamlık (public apartments), and rooms have entrance areas consisting of what are these two-or three-storey houses look plain and called “safnail” posts with arches and railings; unpretentious from the outside. Turkish houses some rooms have entrances with wooden panel reflect a family-centered way of living; they have windscreens whose interior faces are embellished wide overhanging eaves (saçak), doors and to blend with the decoration of the room. The windows of proportionate dimensions, and bay rooms have divans [sedir] constructed near the windows relating with the street. Living spaces and fireplace and along the two side walls. Most rooms bedrooms are on the upper floors, while stables, have closets and niches embedded in thick walls. food store, kitchen and other service sections are These are the main elements imparting liveliness to on the ground floor. Wooden stairs lead to the the room. Lower floors are assigned to the stable, upper floors. other household needs and food storage. The divided into the haremlik ceilings of the lower floors are lower than those of the upper floors. Closets and mattress storage spaces are larger. The lavatories are in the outer The rooms in the Turkish house court.”7 The rooms in the Turkish house entail an From the standpoint of the art of construction the understanding Turkish house takes the middle position between of traditional Turkish family structure, which in Erzurum is comprised of architecture parents, married son and daughter-in-law, their incorporates cupboards, raised platforms (seki), children, and unmarried children. The son usually shelves (terek), niches and built-in furniture. In this works in his father’s business and shares the same regard describing the traditional Turkish house is house, so achieving economy. When the son equivalent to describing the furniture in the house. marries, his bride moves into the same house and a Generally speaking, the wall where the door is room is assigned to the married couple. When situated or the wall of the room next to the door is more sons get married the interior of the house is like the wall of a closet. The door opens into the Design Discourse vol.1 no.1, January 2005 and product design, since it 46 Şatır, Karabekir and Karabekir A History of Kitchen Furnishing, Erzurum, Turkey depth of the closet and therefore, when opened, it wrote in his Seyahatname that inside the fort of the is embedded without occupying open space. The city, which had two iron gates (the Georgian and closets are designed to accommodate a bath cabin Erzincan gates) there were 1700 houses.8 and cupboards for mattresses and the personal belongings of the persons living in the room. Erzurum has severe and long winters with snow Washing and water are a very important part of and freezing temperatures. The summer is short, Turkish tradition. Because there was no plumbing, lasting only through July and August. Erzurum is hot water used to be carried in buckets, and people located in a terrain of rocky outcrops and young washed in the bath cabin. In Erzurum the main alluvium in a volcanic region that lies on an bath, in addition to the private bathing closets in earthquake fault line. Volcanic rock and stone the rooms, is like a trench housing a bathtub in the were used as building materials for the old houses kitchen, and covered by a lid in the floor. of the city. Linking Asia with Europe and lying on the Silk Road, Erzurum played an important Since a fireplace was a necessity in each room, historical role politically, culturally and militarily. magnificent fireplaces were sometimes built in the Its economy was always brisk. center of the wall with fitted closets, like those in Safranbolu houses. The fireplace occupied a Situated as it is in eastern Turkey, Erzurum has conspicuous location in the room. All rooms in always been receptive to Eastern and Central Asian Erzurum houses have the same characteristics. cultures. It is a city which, like other Eastern Because Erzurum is located in a very cold region Anatolian cities, has been influenced most by all doors and windows are double. The doors are Central Asian Turkish culture in terms of covered with felt on the inside to insulate them architecture, handicrafts such as tapestry, kilims, from cold. The rooms in the Turkish house are fabric weaving and embroidery, leatherwork, multi-purpose just like the round tent; when metalwork, ceramics etc. necessary serving as a dining room or guest room. At bedtime mattresses and pillows are taken from Erzurum houses have developed their typical the closet and spread on the floor. All of a sudden characteristics to cope with the extremely cold, the room has become a bedroom. All things can be snowy and icy climate conditions during winter. removed from sight and stored away in the built-in The natural morphology of the region has made closets and niches. stone the most widely used construction material, followed by brick and adobe. Basalt, limestone and sandstone are the mostly extensively used stone types in the region. Cut stone is used at structural Typical characteristics of the Erzurum house corners and rubble for other parts of the buildings. Soil in the region is suitable for making brick and Erzurum was settled by the Byzantines circa 415 is therefore used as a building material. Soil is AD, although the region has a deep-rooted culture used both for making adobe, which forms the dating back to 4000 BC. Erzurum was occupied in binding elements for the walls and as roof cover. turn by Byzantines, by indigenous peoples of Wood, which forms the skeleton of most houses in Anatolia, Iranians, Seljuk Turks, Mongolians, Anatolia, is used for house elements such as beams Ilkhanids, and finally by the Ottomans. Evliya that separate the storeys, door and window frames, Celebi, who was a customs clerk in Erzurum, flooring, ceiling, staircases and closets. Door and Design Discourse vol.1 no.1, January 2005 47 A History of Kitchen Furnishing, Erzurum, Turkey Şatır, Karabekir and Karabekir window accessories include hinges, studs, lock entrance leads to the kitchen and the stable, hay mechanisms etc. Erzurum houses adjoin each other store, lavatory, the rooms on the same floor or to and are two-storeyed; they do not fit the traditional upper floors via stairs; and the same routing role plan of the Turkish house because the plans of applies to the kitchen. In Erzurum the kitchen is houses other than kitchens do not have any strict called requirements; in general Erzurum houses have (tandırevi) named after the pit oven known as specific characteristics as necessitated by severe tandır. Most activities took place in the kitchens. climatic conditions and by the need to utilize small The house had a sacred meaning, so calling the and possess kitchen the “house” imparted great importance to it. characteristics reflecting the traditional Turkish “Kitchens [tandırevleri] are multi-purpose places house and way of living, and creating separate where activities such as baking bread, sitting, space such as haremlik and selamlık. The greatest resting, sleeping, eating and receiving guests take divergence from the traditional houses is the place.”10. The kitchens have dome-shaped ceilings, structural characteristics and features adapted to and the walls have no windows, and are on average the long cold winters. The kitchen is central to the 5-6 m high. The only source of illumination is a 30 plan of the Erzurum house. The Erzurum house x 30cm aperture in the ceiling. Light rays are and its kitchen are unique in that the court and the transmitted by a prism-shaped glass frame called a kitchen are the central elements in a plan type, çakçavi. irregular lots, although they the “house” (ev) or "tandır house" which is most suitable for a cold climate. The kitchen in the Erzurum house The house-kitchen relation in most areas of Turkey is different from that in Erzurum. “A study of old Greek houses in Yeni Foça on the Aegean coast showed separate places for the kitchen and the bath in the house. In 56 of the 66 houses researched the kitchen is in the house. In 10 of them the kitchen is outside, at entrance areas such as under the Figure 1. Section of the kitchen 11 staircases or in the garden.”9 The kitchen is in the garden in most of the waterfront houses (yalı) in Istanbul. In Manisa and Bodrum in Western Anatolia, kitchens are located in the court. In the Southeastern province of Adıyaman, kitchens may be either inside the house or in the court. Nowhere in Turkey have kitchens influenced the plan and lifestyle of the house as they have done in Erzurum. The kitchen is the most important and central part of the house. The court and the kitchen provide access to other parts of the house, the court at the Design Discourse vol.1 no.1, January 2005 48 A History of Kitchen Furnishing, Erzurum, Turkey Şatır, Karabekir and Karabekir Figure 2. Kirlangic ceiling, Somunoglu House 12 Figure 3. Ceiling in a Buddhist grotto, Afghanistan 14 The tandırevi measures approximately 8m by 9m. The floor is stone and there is a water drain at the Tandır: the tandır is a pit oven made of special center. As Oya Karabekir observed, the most soil and has its roots in Central Asia. Three tandırs interesting feature of the Erzurum kitchen is the are embedded in a pentagonal platform. Over the dome rising from an otherwise completely flat roof oven is a stone arch. The vertical distance from the and the wooden ceiling. The kırlangıç ceiling is a bottom of the arch to the ground is on average 170 dome created by the criss-cross overlapping of the cm. This section named tandırbaşı is placed ends of thick timber beams. diagonally where the two walls intersect in the kitchen. It tapers off as it rises above and looks like The Ming-Vi caves have kirlangic ceilings, which a truncated cone. At the front edge of the hearth Pelliot dates to the 7th century. Northern nations raised above floor level are air vents called külve introduced the through which air enters the pit ovens. The ring Euro-Asian region stretching to India between encircling the opening at the top is called surt. this Altay and Iran. ceiling 13 construction to To build this ceiling, beams Tandırs are generally made in three, namely small, forming a square are placed on the angles of a medium and big sizes, ranging in height from square object. Then a smaller square is inscribed in 50-100 cm to 150 cm. The top is 65 cm in diameter this square at its corners, and superimposed by and bottom has a diameter of nearly 100cm. These gradually decreasing squares, so that these beams ovens are used for baking bread, cooking food, create a dome-like ceiling. The kitchen has a wide making milk products and warming dishes. The diversity of elements: the tandirbasi (hood above tandır is also a means of heating in poor people’s the pit oven), shelves [terek], raised platform [seki], houses. Various kitchen accessories are employed stone water tank [kurun] and storeroom. when baking bread. Niches are carved into the stones on the interior walls of the tandırbası. Kitchen equipment for Design Discourse vol.1 no.1, January 2005 49 Şatır, Karabekir and Karabekir A History of Kitchen Furnishing, Erzurum, Turkey everyday use and items such as salt and pepper are Crescent area, ovens have been excavated dating kept in these niches. back more than seven thousand years, suggesting that nan or its equivalent has been a staple food for Various utensils are used when cooking in tandır the inhabitants of the region for at least that long. ovens. The rapata is used for sticking thin bread Now comes the tea, either green or black, as in dough onto the walls of the tandır; it has an oval Japan.”16 shape and is like a tough pillow stuffed with grass and covered with thick cloth. The gelberi is a shovel used to remove ash from the tandır. The kösevi is a tool made of hardy wood used for poking the tandır fire. the egis serves to retrieve bread from the tandır and is flat at one end and hooked at the other. The silek is an oily cloth used to wipe the sides of the tandır.15 Tandır making became a trade in Erzurum. Tandır makers had no market, no shops of their own, but worked in their own houses. Tandır makers used to carry the red tandır clay from far away places by carts and the whole family was employed at making the ovens. The tandır maker used to be paid after he had installed the Figure 4.Oven [tandırbaşı],Ekrem Bey’s House17 oven in the tandır pit in the house to which he had sold the tandır, because transporting the tandır and installing it carried a high risk of damage and breakage. The experience and skill of the tandır maker reduced this risk. The Turks considered the oven sacred, and consequently the tandırbaşı was also looked upon as sacred in Erzurum, and a special ceremony used to be held when installing the tandır. Masatoshi Konishi gives an account of his observations during his researches in Central Asia: “.....we are brought some dishes of broiled mutton and fried rice, along with a huge piece of thin bread called “nan.” This kind of bread is a staple throughout the entire area and has even spread as far as North Africa, although its name naturally Figure 5. Shelves (terek), small fireplace [ocak], differs in various countries. In the so-called Fertile Somunoğlu House18 Design Discourse vol.1 no.1, January 2005 50 A History of Kitchen Furnishing, Erzurum, Turkey Şatır, Karabekir and Karabekir Fireplace (ocak): “Ancient peoples used hearths in their natural state. to make fire in their rituals. The fire was mostly at the center. Hearths were employed for cooking, 19 Water tank (kurun): The kurun is a water tank heating or as sacrificial fire” . The fireplace is which provides the water supply of the Erzurum situated on one side of the tandırbaşı. The house. It is built by carving into a single block of fireplace harmonizes with the tandırbaşı. It has a stone adjoining the wall of kitchen (tandırev). The stone arch with a brick chimney. It is for practical saka, or water carrier who brought water from use. street fountains, used to pour the water into the opening of the kurun without entering the private Shelf (terek): The resourcefulness of Erzurum part of the house. The kurun has a decorative women is apparent from the shiny look and neat wooden lid on top. Water ran into the house arrangement of copperware and brassware on the through a tap called a burma. Water from the shelves. The shelves extending from the floor up to kurun was used very economically. 20 the ceiling on both sides of the tandırbası used to give the kitchen a pleasant appearance. Copper and brassware symbolized the family’s wealth. The frame of the shelves was decorated with wood carving. The shelves were spaced according to the sizes of trays and plates. Raised platform (seki): The seki is an important element of the traditional Turkish house. Verandas, also called hayat, are provided with raised platforms in the shape of a balcony. Sekis are placed in secluded parts of the veranda away from circulation. The seki is section in the form of an open room with a raised floor within the space so as to benefit from the heat of the kitchen. It is a few steps high, its front and sides are enclosed by wooden rails. The space underneath was used as a Figure 6. Water tank (kurun), Somunoğlu House closet and food storage. All the activities in a room 21 could also take place here. The first layer of the floor was a straw mat, which was covered first by felt, and then a rug or kilim on top of all. People used to sit on floor cushions along the walls, and rest against back cushions. In some houses the wall of the seki had wooden closets for mattresses etc. The walls also had stone or gypsum coffee hearths. The wooden closet doors, shelves, and kirlangic ceilings in the kitchen are left unpainted Design Discourse vol.1 no.1, January 2005 51 A History of Kitchen Furnishing, Erzurum, Turkey Şatır, Karabekir and Karabekir contribution they can make to the creation of a local identity. The objective is to recognize and set forth the characteristics of the kitchen of a deep-rooted culture with regard to design on the one hand, and to develop it in a contemporary sense and inspire new designs on the other hand. Endnotes Figure 7. Raised platform (seki), Ekrem House Bey’s 22 Conclusion Around 20 houses were studied insitu and the plans of around 60 others were examined. The differences of the furnishings of the Erzurum kitchen, which is little known in Turkey, are as follows: 1.The Erzurum house does not posses the traditional plan of the Turkish house. It is kitchen-centered rather than hall-centered. 2.The main living quarters are on the ground floor, not on the upper floor. 3.Consequently the harem is on the ground (lower) floor. 4.Raised platform [seki], Shelf [terek], Water tank [kurun], Oven [tandırbaşı], Kırlangıc ceilings 1 Koprulu, Gluck, Strzygowski 1974, p.27. 2 Karpuz 1984, p.11. 3 Ibid., p.10. 4 Koprulu, Gluck, Strzygowski 1974, p. 7. 5 Eldem 1968, p. 12. 6 Ibid., p.24 7 Akok 1951, p. 4. 8 Sezen 1994, p. 31. 9 Asatekin, Eren 1979, p. 23. 10 Karabekir 1984, p. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6. 11 Karpuz 1984, p.98. 12 Karabekir 1984. 13 Koprulu, Gluck, Strzygowski 1974, p.32. 14 Konishi 1969, p. 88. 15 Karpuz 1984, p. 26. 16 Konishi 1969, p. 19. 17 Karabekir 1984. 18 Ibid. 19 Nauman 1991, p. 189, 190, 191. 20 Karpuz 1984, p. 27. 21 Karabekir 1984. 22 Ibid. and bathtubs are the elements peculiar to the Erzurum kitchen. Today these kitchens have become obsolete. These kitchens reflecting Turkish culture are worthy of close consideration in view of the valuable Design Discourse vol.1 no.1, January 2005 Bibliography Akok, M., 1951, Ankara’nın Eski Evleri [Old Houses of 52 A History of Kitchen Furnishing, Erzurum, Turkey Şatır, Karabekir and Karabekir Ankara], Turk Tarih Kurumu Basimevi, Ankara, p.4, 5. Asatekin, G., Eren, Z., The Outcome of a Questionaire Work at Yeni Foca, M.E.T.U Journal of the Faculty of Architecture, no: 1, vol:5, 1979, p. 23. Eldem, S., 1968, Turk Evi Plan Tipleri [Plan Types of Turkish Houses], I.T.U. Mimarlık Fakultesi Baski Atolyesi, Istanbul, p. 12, 24. Karabekir(Kılıc), O., Erzurum Kitchens, Turkiyemiz, no: 43, 1984, p.1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6. Karpuz, H., 1984, Turk Islam Mesken Mimarisinde Erzurum Evleri [Erzurum Houses in Turkish Islamic Architecture], Basbakanlik Basimevi, Ankara, p. 10, 11, 26, 27, 98. Konishi, M., 1969, Afghanistan, Crossroads of Ages, Kodansha International LTD., Tokyo, p. 19, 88 Koprulu, F., Gluck, H., Strzygowski, J., 1974, Eski Turk Sanati ve Avrupa’ya etkisi [Ancient Turkish Culture and its effects on Europe], Turk Tarih Kurumu Basimevi, Ankara, p.7, 27, 32. Nauman, R., 1991, Eski Anadolu Mimarlığı, 3.edition, translated by: Beral Madra, Turk Tarih Kurumu Basimevi, IV. Dizi, Ankara, p. 189, 190, 191 Oya Karabekir’s photography archive Sezen, L., 1994, Erzurum Sehir Folkloru [Folk Art of Erzurum], Er-Vak Yayınlari, Erzurum, p.31 Design Discourse vol.1 no.1, January 2005 53