the books - Monica Parpal Stockbridge

inthemix
Over the past century or so, Chicago has developed from a rugged industrial center to a fashionable, innovative dining
hub. Since then, a handful of brave entrepreneurs took a leap, opened the restaurants of their dreams, and never looked
back—setting the tone for the great dining scene we know today. Many of these classic eateries have been around for
20, 30, and 40 years or more. These restaurants are written in the pages of Chicago’s past and evolving present—citing a
history and quality that reflect this city’s diverse and storied personality. In other words, these are Chicago dining classics.
ONE
FOR
THE
BOOKS
restaurants
that stand the test of time BY MONIC A PARPAL
CLASSIC CHICAGO
Salpicon
THE ITALIAN VILLAGE {71 West Monroe Street; 312.332.7005}
Perhaps the oldest restaurant in our book, Italian Village opened in 1927
in the Loop—now one of Chicago’s most iconic and lively neighborhoods.
During its 87-year tenure, the restaurant has celebrated Chicago’s colorful
development. But Gina Capitanini will tell you that it’s all about the people.
“Families have literally grown up with us,” she says, “from celebrating their
first birthdays, all the way up to getting engaged.” The staff has grown
with them, too—more than 30 of the employees have logged 25 years
or more. Bartender Vinnie has been there for 55 years, bested by Maître
D’ Frank Sgro, who’s worked there for 56. “We have survived Prohibition,
riots, fires, and depressions,” Capitanini continues. “We have lived history.”
Over the years, celebrity sightings have included George Clooney, Tom
Selleck, and Frank and Barbara Sinatra, who held their wedding reception
at Italian Village. Guests come for the coveted booth seating and a taste
of Chicken Alfredo—the dish created by the family’s grandfather in Italy—
Morton’s, The Steakhouse
MORTON’S, THE STEAKHOUSE
{1050 North State Street; 312.266.4820}
The original Morton’s, The Steakhouse—nestled into a garden-level space
on State and Rush—opened on December 21, 1978, a date well-known
throughout the Morton’s community. In fact, many of the restaurants
subsequently opened around the country and even internationally have that
date stamped on a plaque in their bars, commemorating the very first. Now
in its 36th year, Morton’s has withstood the test of time. From day one,
they’ve been committed to warm Midwestern values, and quality Midwestern
beef. Today, Morton’s is one of the most successful steakhouse brands in
the country, known for generous portions: we love the classic Porterhouse
with hearty sides and signature desserts like the Chocolate Soufflé. Recently,
nationwide interior design updates and contemporary additions to the menu
have revitalized Morton’s appeal, making it one to watch for another 36
years. XMORTONS.COM
as well as the Lasagna, Manicotti, and classic Spaghetti and Meatballs.
XITALIANVILLAGE-CHICAGO.COM
SALPICÓN {1252 North Wells Street; 312.988.7811}
For the last twenty years, Salpicón has represented the city’s Mexican
heritage—celebrating the diversity of Chicago’s ethnic and cultural
backgrounds. In fact, Salpicón was the first restaurant to open on the south
end of Old Town—the area just southwest of Lincoln Park. “To say we
were a pioneer is an understatement,” says Proprietor and Wine Director
Vincent Satkoff. “Salpicón has anchored this end of Old Town for the last
two decades.” Old Town has since transformed into a popular, refined
neighborhood, where Salpicón Chef and Proprietor Priscila Satkoff impresses
guests with dishes like Jalapeños stuffed with Chihuahua cheese, Baby
Spinach Salad with goat cheese and chipotle-honey dressing, and grilled
Filet of Angus Beef Tenderloin in a tomatillo-morita chile sauce. Seasonal
specials change bi-weekly, but regulars love the menu so much that it’s
remained largely the same. X SALPICON.COM
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GLUNZ TAVERN {1202 North Wells Street; 312.642.3000}
Reopened in December of 2012, Glunz Tavern has a long history in
Chicago. Originally opened in Old Town by Louis Glunz I in 1888, the
restaurant was shuttered during Prohibition. However, the Glunz family
continued to operate the space. In 2012, daughter Barbara Glunz and
her son Christopher Donovan opened its doors to meet the revitalized
neighborhood culture, while keeping the stylistic elements of the original
tavern. “That’s what makes us a classic,” says Barbara. “We maintained
the 19th century style with the original wood floors and wainscoting, the
high tin ceilings, and a large oak bar. Even the signage and the lighting
are original.” The Glunz family’s personal heritage influences their classic
European-inspired dishes (think Coq au Riesling and Homemade Chicken
Noodle Soup), and they’ve sold fine wines and spirits from neighboring
House of Glunz wine and spirits shop for decades. It’s been 126 years since
Louis Glunz I first opened the tavern, and according to Barbara, he’d be
thrilled. X GLUNZTAVERN.COM
Tarantino’s
Coco Pazzo
Chicago Chop House
Kamehachi
COCO PAZZO {300 West Hubbard Street; 312.836.0900}
KAMEHACHI {multiple locations}
Set in a grand, century-old industrial loft building, Coco Pazzo practically
defines the word “classic” when it comes to Chicago dining. With wood
timbers, exposed brick, bay windows, and high ceilings, the space boasts
an elegant dining room and open kitchen, complete with wood-burning
oven. Owner Jack Weiss, along with wife and Wine Director Tamra, added
Australian cypress floors, blue velvet drapes, and theatrical lighting to
make it their own. “It’s really a timeless environment,” Weiss says. With
Executive Chef Federico Comacchio at the helm, Coco Pazzo offers a
seasonally-driven, Tuscan-inspired menu abundant with both traditional
and contemporary dishes. Resident regulars consistently fill the space,
but this River North restaurant has gained a reputation the world over for
its warm hospitality and comfortable fine dining experience. “We consider
ourselves an institution in Chicago, due to the fact that we respect the
history and personality of the city, the food, and the Italian community,”
In 1967, Marion Konishi bravely opened Kamehachi in Chicago’s Old Town
neighborhood, right across the street from legendary comedy house,
Second City. “No one was eating sushi in 1965,” recalls Sharon Perazzoli,
Konishi’s daughter and current co-owner. Eventually, throngs of locals
began to venture inside, and celebrity actors like John Belushi began
seeking it out for its authentic quality. Perazzoli and her own daughter,
Giulia Sindler, now operate this original sushi restaurant, along with its
sister location in Northbrook and a sushi bar in River North. With a name
that means good luck and long life, Kamehachi has certainly proven itself
over the years. “We’re still thriving despite many competitors,” Perazzoli
says. “When my mother first started Kamehachi, she served strictly
traditional Japanese food. We’ve always served the freshest fish each day,
flown in from Japan. Now, we’ve evolved to do more creative rolls, but
always stay true to what we know.” That creativity takes shape in Hamachi
Weiss says. The Whole Roasted Mediterranean Sea Bass—cooked in the
wood-burning oven—is a signature dish, as are the hearty Pasta with Wild
Boar Ragoût and Rigatoni Alla Buttera with sausage, tomato, Parmesan
cheese, peas, and a touch of cream. At Coco Pazzo, guests rely on
consistency and comfort. “We offer a wonderful experience, time and time
again.” X COCOPAZZOCHICAGO.COM
Carpaccio—Pacific yellowtail sliced paper-thin, accented with serrano and
jalapeño, and drizzled with ponzu. “People can rely on our restaurant,”
Perazzoli says. “That says a lot.” X KAMEHACHI.COM
CHICAGO CHOP HOUSE {60 West Ontario Street; 312.787.7100}
Opened in 1986 in a charming, century-old Victorian brownstone,
the Chicago Chop House has been called a “grandfather of Chicago
steakhouses.” Formerly a personal residence, the restaurant’s tinned
ceilings and dark wood accents hearken to the city’s past, with more
than 1,400 historical photos throughout the three dining rooms. Since its
beginnings, this independently-owned Chicago classic has been serving
steaks the way nature intended: big, juicy, and USDA Prime. For a classic
taste, go for the Long Bone Tomahawk, New York Strip, Bone-In Filet, or
Grand Porterhouse. X CHICAGOCHOPHOUSE.COM
ERIE CAFE {536 West Erie Street; 312.266.2300}
“We’re old school,” says Owner Ron Lenzi of Erie Cafe, a steakhouse opened
in 1994. “We’re doing things the way they were done 40 years ago.” Set in a
restored, former beef breaking and butchering plant that dates back to 1911,
this Italian steakhouse carries forth its own history by butchering and aging
its own meat products, serving aged items like the Strip Loin Steak—a house
favorite. “We’ve been referred to as a classic neighborhood restaurant,”
Lenzi says. “I think the reason for that is we take care of our local people.
Our regulars are our number-one priority.” The building, with its cedar ceiling
and arched stone windows, overlooks the Chicago River. Guests are greeted
by name in an atmosphere that recalls the era of Frank Sinatra and Harry
Caray. This winter, come and enjoy the wood-burning fireplaces, and don’t
forget a slice of Key Lime Pie for dessert. X ERIECAFE.COM
www.diningout.com
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inthemix
Club Lucky
ORSO’S {1401 North Wells Street; 312.787.6604}
Opened in 1971, Orso’s has gathered a loyal group of regulars over the years.
They might describe it as having the best of everything: great food during
all four seasons; a cozy, inviting atmosphere in the main dining rooms; and
a stunning garden in the warm weather months—complete with a charming
pergola and 18-year-old grape vine. The patio bar is heated all winter, and the
interior maintains its cozy, Old-World elegance all year. People come to Orso’s
to engage with a friendly staff, enjoy quality food, and relax among friends.
The extensive photo gallery documents old and new customers—the people
who have supported them throughout the years. And for as long as we can
remember, the Lasagna Bolognese, Tortellaci al Prosciutto, and the Jalapeño
Gnocchi have been customer favorites. This restaurant transports diners to a
simpler time—a taste of Old Italy in the Windy City. X ORSOSRESTAURANT.COM
CLUB LUCKY {1824 West Wabansia; 773.227.2300}
Celebrating its 25th anniversary in 2015, Club Lucky is “the epitome of the
neighborhood corner bar and restaurant,” says General Manager Thomas
Kleiner. “We’re dedicated to offering a welcoming atmosphere, comfort food,
and a great place to escape from the daily woes. This is your home away
from home.” The 1940s-esque, social heritage rings clear in this timeless
restaurant, where Old-Chicago décor, hand-painted wallpaper, and supper
club style have ageless appeal. Favorites include the Homemade Lasagna,
Hand-Stuffed Tortellini, and Arancini (risotto balls stuffed with mozzarella
and peas). Traditional hot soups like Paste e Fagiole, Minestrone, and
Chicken Pastina are perfect in cold weather, and you can always count on a
classic gin or vodka martini—Club Lucky’s signature beverage for nearly a
quarter century … and counting. XCLUBLUCKYCHICAGO.COM
Gene & Georgetti
Orso’s
Michael’s
bed of saffron risotto has long been a winning dish. Within striking distance of
Second City, Topo Gigio has provided pasta and espresso for the likes of Bill
Murray, Harold Ramis, and Bonnie Hunt. X TOPOGIGIOCHICAGO.COM
MIA FRANCESCA {multiple locations}
Opened in a former candy and soda shop in 1992, Mia Francesca’s original
restaurant is the first of more than 20 locations. Here, fresh ingredients, a warm
atmosphere, and a family mentality have forged a loyal following. The casual
menu is always changing, but standbys include Calamari, Bruschetta, and
Quattro Staggioni pizza. This approachable eatery in Lincoln Park/Lakeview
is a prime spot for young families and couples on dates, and the staff—
many of whom have been with Mia Francesca since it opened—are quick to
welcome guests like family. “When people step into Mia Francesca, or any of
my restaurants, it is like they’re stepping into my home,” says Founder, Chef,
and Restaurateur Scott Harris. “I welcome them with open arms and make
sure they have a wonderful experience.” Stop by for seasonal, rotating menu
items, as well as the recently-launched brunch menu. X MIAFRANCESCA.COM
GENE & GEORGETTI {500 North Franklin Street; 312.527.3718}
Some might say that the history of Gene & Georgetti is inherently entwined
with Chicago’s own evolution. For nearly 75 years, the family-owned and
operated restaurant—founded by Gene Michelotti and original chef, Alfredo
Federghi (sometimes known by the nickname “Georgetti”)—has celebrated
Chicago with its dynamic, consistent, and high-quality service. It’s said that
the original building was constructed using wood that survived the Chicago
fire of 1871. Servers know regular customers by name, and their orders by
heart. Many customers pine for the 32-ounce T-Bone Steak, and younger
clientele love the “vintage, old-school vibe.” The longstanding Garbage
Salad is a favorite, as is the Chicken alla Joe—oven-broiled and quartered
chicken smothered in every kind of pepper imaginable. And for dessert, the
Spumoni Ice Cream has been a show-stopper for decades. In 2015, Gene &
Georgetti will expand, with a new restaurant and event venue in Rosemont,
IL—a classically designed events and weddings facility, inspired by Gene
& Georgetti’s classic atmosphere. Along with the menu, it will maintain the
tradition, consistency, and reputation for quality that the Gene & Georgetti
name is known for. XGENEANDGEORGETTI.COM
TOPO GIGIO RISTORANTE {1516 North Wells Street; 312.266.9355}
Another Old Town original, Topo Gigio was established in 1988 by Frank Reda
Sr., following his first Italian restaurant, Agostino’s. Celebrating over 26 years,
Topo Gigio helped to establish the Old Town retail district from what was
then underdeveloped Wells Street. According to Owner Tom Reda, Topo Gigio’s
classic status comes from humble roots; the result of consistency, excellence,
warm décor, and staff friendliness. The staff and customers know one another
by name, maintaining values of Midwestern hospitality and Italian culinary
traditions in the city. The rustic, Tuscan-inspired fare includes pasta, meat, and
seafood specialties updated with a contemporary approach. Try the Conchiglie
all’ Sarda, which includes shell pasta, ground sausage, peas, and pecorino
MICHAEL’S {1879 Second Street, Highland Park; 847.432.3338}
September 1977. That’s when Michael’s first opened, creating a Chicago
cheese in tomato-cream sauce. The Black Linguine all Russa with smoked
salmon, shrimp, and scallops in a light tomato-cream sauce also makes an
impression on plate and palate, while the savory Osso Buco Milanese on a
institution offering “good food … fast,” rather than good fast food. Michael’s
offers Chicago-style cuisine—Jumbo Char Dogs, Charbroiled Chicken in
house teriyaki sauce, Cheddar Fries with Merkt’s cheddar, and of course, a
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legendary salad bar. At Michael’s, guests are welcomed into a relaxed and
unpretentious environment, where there’s always a game on TV and good
food on the grill. Ordering is a fun process, wherein guests converse and
catch up while placing their order, customizing their choices, and watching
the action in the kitchen. A little known fact: Michael’s first opened under
the name “Nathan’s Chicago Style Red Hots.” Keep an eye out for “big
plans” coming in 2015—and rest assured that the name Michael’s is here
to stay. XMICHAELSHOTDOGS.COM
NOOKIES {multiple locations}
The first Nookies location opened on Wells Street in 1973, followed by
three more as the brand grew in popularity. That’s right, Chicago: there
are four Nookies locations, not one. “We’re so neighborhood based, that
many people don’t even realize that their Nookies isn’t the only Nookies,”
says Chef Jacob Smith, who’s worked here for the past decade. This
neighborhood loyalty is key. “Each location has its own feel, signage,
and staff,” Smith says. Nookies celebrates each location, embracing the
differences and supporting locally-owned neighboring businesses as much
as possible. As such, Nookies regulars are fiercely loyal. “I’ve seen regulars
in here upwards of four times a week,” he laughs. “In fact, we keep Liver
and Onions available for one person, because we know he loves it.” Other
delectable items include all-day breakfast items like waffles, pancakes,
corn beef hash, and classic BLT sandwiches and soups. So, which Nookies
is your Nookies? X NOOKIESCHICAGO.COM
TARANTINO’S {1112 West Armitage Avenue; 773.871.2929}
Owner John Tarantino has operated his independent, family-friendly
restaurant in the heart of Lincoln Park since 1995. Since then, Tarantino’s
has invited guests from near and far to enjoy Italian-inspired dishes
in its warm and comfortable space. Step inside, and John Tarantino
and his hospitable staff welcome you like family for an elegant,
relaxing dining experience. Longstanding signature items include the
Housemade Butternut Squash Ravioli, the Mustard Crusted Salmon
with sautéed baby vegetables, the Cowboy Steak (a 16oz, bone-in ribeye with red wine butter sauce), and family recipes using Tarantino’s
mother’s marinara. Over the years, Tarantino has watched regular guests
grow up with the restaurant, coming in for first dates and later to get
engaged or married. It’s apt, then, that Tarantino’s can also be rented
out for wedding receptions and other events. Whether you’re here for
a romantic date or a family dinner, this classic restaurant is sure to be
well-loved in Lincoln Park for years to come. X TARANTINOS.COM
PHIL STEFANI’S 437 RUSH {437 North Rush Street; 312.222.0101}
Born and raised in Chicago, Phil Stefani began his restaurant career in
1980 with Stefani’s on Fullerton. Over the past 30 years, that name has
become ingrained in Chicago dining culture. There are now seven fullservice restaurants to the Stefani name, in addition to three seasonal
cafes and a catering service. Phil Stefani’s 437 Rush is particularly historic,
with parts of the building dating back to 1936. Under the direction of
Phil’s daughter Gina, recent renovations have modernized the space to
accommodate contemporary diners. “It’s Phil Stefani’s preferred hangout,
and a go-to place for locals and conventioneers alike,” says CFO/COO
Steven Hartenstein, who’s been with the Stefani team for more than 20
years. At Phil Stefani’s 437 Rush, classic steakhouse dishes are prepared
with Italian flair and a youthful twist. Whether you’re here for the first time
or the 50th, we recommend starting with the Antipasti Platter, followed by
the signature Bone-In Rib-Eye. XPHILSTEFANIS437RUSH.COM
www.diningout.com
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