docONLINE FASHION RESALE in the Netherlands.
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ONLINE FASHION RESALE in the Netherlands.
! ! ONLINE! FASHION RESALE! in the Netherlands.! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! 28th of May 2015! Bachelor Thesis Tessa Pauw! Student nr: 500624492 Course: International Fashion & Management Coach: Ligia Hera ! ! 1 ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! 2 ! ! ! !Disclaimer: ! 1. This report, as part of the graduation project aimed at attaining the BA title from the Amsterdam University of Applied Sciences, has been written and/or compiled solely by me. ! 2. This project report (or any amended form of it) has never before been submitted by me or anyone else in the framework of a learning assignment aimed at the attainment of a certificate or degree, within the AMFI program or elsewhere. ! 3. The work that was necessary for the realization of this project was performed entirely by me. All the data that have been collected are original. ! 4. All quotes from other sources are recognizable in the report by quotation marks and the sources of all my information have specifically been indicated. ! ! Date : Place : Name : ! Signature ! ___________________________________ ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! 3 ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! 4 ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! Gucci Bamboo Leather Backpack! available secondhand on eBay! drawing: Freshly Framed! ! How can online fashion resale become a prevailing trend in the fashion industry of the Netherlands? 5 Table of Contents.! ! Preface……………………………………………………………………………………………..!8! Executive Summary………………………………………………………………………………! 9! Introduction………………………………………………………………………………………..! 11! Chapter 1 Research & Methodology……………………………………………………………!13! ! 1.1 Research Questions ………………………………………………………………..! 14! ! 1.2 Relevance……………………………………………………………………………! 15! ! 1.3 Methodology…………………………………………………………………………! 15! ! 1.4 Limitations……………………………………………………………………………! 18! Chapter 2: Theoretical Framework……………………………………………………………..! 19! ! 2.1 Fast Fashion…………………………………………………………………………! 20! ! ! 2.1.1 Environmental Pollution………………………………………………….! 21! ! ! 2.1.2 Ethical Issues……………………………………………………………..! 21! ! 2.2 Consuming fashion…………………………………………………………………! 22! ! 2.3 Sustainable fashion consumption…………………………………………………! 23! ! ! 2.3.1 Sustainable Fiber production……………………………………………! 23! ! ! 2.3.2 Recycling and Reusing textiles…………………………………………! 24! ! 2.4 Re-Using initiatives…………………………………………………………………! 24! ! ! 2.4.1 Secondhand stores………………………………………………………! 25! ! ! 2.4.2 Secondhand markets……………………………………………………! 25! ! ! 2.4.3 Swap events & closet sales……………………………………………..! 25! ! ! 2.4.4 The clothing library………………………………………………………! 26! ! ! 2.4.5 Retail initiatives…………………………………………………………..! 26! ! ! 2.4.6 Not sustainable enough…………………………………………………! 27! ! 2.5 Conclusion……………………………………………………………………………! 27! Chapter 3 The online C2C fashion market……………………………………………………! 29! ! 3.1 C2C e-commerce……………………………………………………………………! 30! ! 3.2 C2C e-commerce in Fashion………………………………………………………! 31! ! ! 3.2.1 Online C2C fashion market on Social Media…………………………! 31! ! ! 3.2.2 Online C2C fashion market places……………………………………..! 32! ! ! ! 3.2.2.1 Online C2C fashion market places in the US………………! 32! ! ! ! 3.2.2.1 Online C2C fashion market places in the Netherlands……! 35! ! 3.3 Conclusion……………………………………………………………………………! 36! Chapter 4: What is the current situation of the online C2C clothing market in the NL?…..! 37! 6 ! ! 4.1 How well-known is this movement in the Netherlands…………………………..!38! ! ! 4.1.1 Theoretical: Press and Information……………………………………..! 38! ! ! 4.1.2 Empirical: Survey Data …………………………………………………..!39! ! ! 4.1.2.1!Results and Discussion…………………………………………….….! 38! ! ! 4.1.2.2!Survey Data Limitations………………………………………………..!43! ! ! 4.1.2.3!Survey Data Conclusion………………………………………………..!43! ! 4.2 Who are the main users of these online marketplaces?…………………………!44! ! 4.3 Conclusion…………………………………………………………………………….!45! Chapter 5: Stimulants of this movement……………………………………………………….! 46! ! 5.1 Theoretical……………………………………………………………………………! 47! ! ! 5.1.1 Business owners………………………………………………………….! 47! ! ! 5.1.2 Analysis Facebook sellers posts…………………………………………!48! ! 5.2 Empirical………….…………………………………………………………………..! 49! ! ! 5.2.1 Survey data - Online sellers……………………………………………..! 49! ! ! 5.2.2 Survey data - Offline sellers……………………………………………..! 53! ! 5.3 Conclusion…………………………………………………………………………….!57! Chapter 6: The opportunities in the Netherlands………………………………………………!59! ! 6.1 Analyzing empirical research and existing business models……………………!60! ! 6.2 What does the Dutch consumer say about opportunities: Survey results……..!61! ! 6.3 SWOT Analysis of online fashion resale………………………………………….. 62! ! 6.4 Estimated Market Potential………………………………………………………… 63! ! 6.5 Future threats and recommendations……………………………………………..! 63! ! 6.6 Conclusion……………………………………………………………………………! 64! Chapter 7: Conclusion & Recommendations…………………………………………………..!65! ! 7.1 Research Conclusions………………………………………………………………!66! ! 7.2 Discussion & Recommendations…………………………………………………..! 69! ! 7.3 Research Limitations………………………………………………………………..! 73! References………………………………………………………………………………………..! 74! Appendices………………………………………………………………………………………..! 86! ! ! ! ! 7 Preface.! Amsterdam, May 2015.! ! This research report is part of my graduation project for the studies ‘International Fashion Management’ commissioned by the Amsterdam Fashion Institute. ! The research report addresses the question “how online fashion resale can become a prevailing trend in the fashion industry of the Netherlands”, and tries to answer this question as accurately as possible on the basis of empirical research, theoretical research and recommendations towards start up resale businesses or retailers interested in fashion resale.! ! What gave rise for this was an internship in New York where I experienced that many of my colleagues frequently brought their clothing to a hip secondhand fashion chain and earned a bit of extra cash with this. Initially the project would be examining why this is not common in the Netherlands yet, until I stumbled upon the online variant and noticed a gigantic emerging market abroad. These findings brought me to conduct further studies regarding the future possibilities of the secondhand clothing market going digital.! ! The aim of this study is to map out the current online fashion resale market in the Netherlands and to test if this is a worthy business opportunity for the future.! ! During the process of this research I have received a lot of help from various sources. ! First of all, I would like to express my thanks to my coach Ligia Hera and advisor Henny Jordaan for guiding me along the way, no matter how long that was. ! Second thanks go out to all who helped and inspired me during the making of this report: Leo Pauw and Liesbeth van de Graaf for their critical advice, Xoel Rey for his everlasting moral support, Bregje Lampe and Jesse Weltevreden for sharing their knowledge and opinions, and of course a special thanks to United Wardrobe, The Next Closet, Designer Vintage and De Kast van Amsterdam for their kindness and cooperation when building this project to what it is now.! ! ! ! 8 Executive Summary.! ! The fact that the fashion industry holds a negative impact on this world, is now well known. Environmentally and human-friendly alternatives are emerging because of this. ! Many of these alternatives focus on creating a sustainable process of garment manufacturing and fabric production, that is to become sustainable. But what happens after that? The aftersale stage of a garment is just as important. What are we supposed to do with the millions of kilos of textile waste that gets disposed into this world annually?! One solution for this is the reusing of clothing. After an economic recession and a rising sustainability movement in Western societies, many people begin to realize this. The internet connectivity transformed this realization into an online fashion resale movement and has proven to be successful in the US and Europe. Multiple online resale platforms arose in these regions over the past three years and established a vast emerging market. But what is the situation in the Netherlands?! ! This study maps out the current situation of Dutch online fashion resale and will find answers to the question: ‘How can online fashion resale become a prevailing trend in the Netherlands?’. ! ! Empirical research conducted for this thesis shows that over 75 per cent of the respondents claim they will buy more used fashion in the future. This shows a positive perspective for the secondhand clothing market in general. In combination with the present day’s digital revolution, online shopping continues to grow incessantly. It is becoming more and more accepted to buy fashion online. Will the secondhand clothing market reach a similar level of leverage digitally?! ! Research shows that many Dutch people only see Marktplaats as an online alternative to sell and buy secondhand, and are not yet aware of the possibilities of the current online fashion resale market. In addition to Marktplaats, eBay and Facebook - who are not specialized in fashion - major players of online fashion resale in the Netherlands at the moment are the companies United Wardrobe, The Next Closet and Designer-Vintage. These companies all work with a different business model. Where United Wardrobe has more of a resemblance with Marktplaats and only uses C2C e-commerce, The Next Closet and Designer-Vintage have more of an authentic B2C business model, but with a product that comes from a consumers closet.! ! 9 To get a better understanding of this online movement, the study looks at the origin of the movement and researches the motivation of people to participate.! Exclusivity and uniqueness of secondhand fashion items seem to be important stimulants to attract buyers in this movement. By expanding the offer of vintage and secondhand garments through the global internet, it has gained popularity under fashionistas. However, the economical aspect of used clothing also seems to be an important factor, especially when it comes to high-segment clothing that becomes available at lower prices through resale.! The economic crisis has been a major stimulant for sellers to participate in this movement, considering the general consumer started looking for ways to obtain some additional income.! The environment is not a major stimulus to many yet, with only 24% of the respondents claiming to sell their clothing from a sustainable perspective. This can - and maybe should - be enhanced through education and awareness. Because although the economical crisis might blow over, the climate crisis will not dissipate so easily.! ! Since it is an absolute necessity for our future on this planet to have a focus on durability and sustainability from now on, it is a smart move to anticipate on this and make it a main factor for a fashion business in the future. This sustainable mind-set is based on serious climate issues, and therefore will grow in ‘popularity’ in the coming years. By prolonging the life of a garment and reducing the demand for new made clothing, online fashion resale should have a strong link to sustainability, not only from an economical point of view, but also from a social point of view. Consumers should constantly be informed about and be urged to make a positive contribution to the green fashion movement.! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! 10 Introduction.! ! Background! In the current fashion industry, fast fashion retailers such as Zara, Topshop and Primark are introducing new lines every two to three weeks at very low prices, to maximize sales through impulse purchasing (McAfee et al., 2004). This has led to a “throw-away culture” where products and fashion have lost their value and consumers are encouraged to replace and dispose of products before their real life cycle has ended (Birtwistle and Moore, 2007).! ! As a result, sustainability in fashion has gained more and more attention over the years, focussing on recycling textiles, environmentally friendly production, ethical issues, green supply chains and more. But what about the post-retail phase of a garment? ! Research has shown that most of the environmental impact caused by clothing is generated during the usage phase (Hethorn and Ulasewicz, 2008). When a garment is purchased the responsibility of the product’s care and maintenance is transferred to the new owner, so the ‘burden’ of being concerned with the impact of the piece of clothing is also shifted to the user. ! A garment goes through many different activities during it’s life cycle including wearing, washing, drying, storing and eventually being disposed of (Gwilt, 2014). How it fares and for how long it lasts depends entirely on each individual. And being influenced by this “throw-away culture” of the fast fashion retailers, this is remarkably short nowadays.! ! The exchange of secondhand clothing is widely done, starting with donating to friends and family, and resulting in consignment shops all over the world. Research shows 27% of the Dutch consumers frequently buys secondhand clothing (NCDO, 2012), and over 88% thinks its important that garments are being reused (NCDO, 2014). Seeing that sustainability is growing in popularity and reusing clothing counts as a sustainable initiative, the question rises: will the reuse of garments also grow in popularity in the future? Not only can the increasing consciousness of consumers be a drive for this, it is also a much more economic way for a consumer to buy ‘new’ and exclusive clothing.! ! Since a few years, more and more online platforms are popping up, giving consumers the possibility to buy and sell their unwanted fashion items to other consumers. These e-commerce 11 platforms have their focus on consumer-to-consumer trading, just as for instance Marktplaats and eBay do, but are specialized in featuring only clothing, shoes and accessories. ! ! In the Netherlands this online secondhand fashion market is just starting to grow. Whereas in the United States, where I personally lived for six months, I noticed this market is a lot more evolved. More and more online consignment stores and platforms have emerged there in the past years: The RealReal (founded 2011), Bib+Tuck (2011), Poshmark (2011), Copious (2011), Vaunte (2012), Threadflip (2012), Shop-Hers (2012), Twice (2012), Material Wrld (2012), The Luxury Closet (2012), Tradesy (2012), Walk in My Closet (2013), SnobSwap (2013), Portero (2014), to name a few. All focussed on the resale of pre owned fashion items.! ! This research is an attempt to discover if this upcoming market of online fashion resale is an actual threat (or opportunity) to clothing retailers in the Netherlands and worth taking into consideration for the future, or not.! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! 12 ! ! ! ! ! ! CH 1! ! Research & Methodology ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! 13 ! ! Chapter 1. Research & Methodology! With the current media attention and awareness campaigns around the environmental and humanitarian impacts of the fashion industry and a sustainability movement as a result, attention towards prolonging a products life cycle by reusing it has grown. Since we are moving into a digital era where online purchasing is increasing every year (Thuiswinkel, 2014; CBS, 2013), an online market for the reuse and resale of fashion between consumers is rising. ! ! 1.1 Research Questions! The main question of this research report entails:! How can online fashion resale become a prevailing trend in the fashion industry of the Netherlands?! ! Sub questions:! 1. What is the current situation of the online fashion resale market in the Netherlands?! What does this movement entail? What platforms are being used here in the Netherlands? How well-known are those platforms? How many users/visitors do they have daily? Who are the main participants of this movement? ! Hypothesis: There is only a small group of fashion authorities and followers that are up to date on the current secondhand market online. ! ! 2. What is driving people to participate in this movement? ! What are the motives of people to buy and sell used fashion online, or why not?! Hypothesis: We would want people to buy and sell secondhand from an environmental perspective, unfortunately this is probably only driven by a financial stimulus.! ! 3. What are the chances for this movement to grow in the fashion industry of the Netherlands?! How can we make it more popular, and why?! Hypothesis: There is an interest towards new sustainable fashion companies, and consumers are willing to participate, as long as the participatory process is highly user-friendly done.! ! ! ! ! 14 1.2 Relevance! It is relevant for any Western society to take actions against the consumer culture as it is right now, including the Netherlands. Researching a movement focussed on reusing each others clothing, which is growing in popularity, is an opportunity for this. ! Finding out what motivates people to participate in this movement and researching how the tools of the movement can be improved and how the awareness could be enhanced, would be a step towards a more responsible fashion industry. ! This research will also serve the purpose of informing Dutch retailers about the possible rise in popularity of the online fashion resale market. They will benefit from this report by informing themselves on the current thoughts and ecological responsibilities of their target group and see if this ‘grey’ market is something to take into account for the future, and might possibly consider implementing this into their business model.! ! 1.3 Methodology! Multiple kinds of research methods have been used within this thesis. First of all, there has been desk research through internet, literature, and journals. Consulted sources are mentioned in footnotes and in the References list.! For the field research there has been a joint approach of qualitative and quantitative research. ! Qualitative research is often found to be impressionistic, not reflecting facts. What has been said by the interviewees will always be subjected to individual interpretation. At the positive side, qualitative research is open for more in-depth inquiries and unexpected findings or insights. By asking an open question, the answer can also turn out to be outside the proposed frameworks, which could lead to a more honest answer, and in the end a more honest result. ! Qualitative research has been done through eight in-depth interviews with fashion professionals focussing on online fashion resale, market developments and secondhand retailing1.! ! Next to in-depth interviews, research has also been done through a group discussion with five female participants who have experience in both selling and buying secondhand clothing online and offline. This group discussion ensured that there was the possibility to go deeper into the subject and at the same time participants who did not agree on a question could discuss with one another, which in the end lead to more open and honest conclusions.! ! 1 See list of interviewees and interviews in appendices. 15 Quantitative research has been done through three questionnaires with a total of 203 respondents. The results of the surveys were imported into the program SPSS and it’s data was analyzed. The downside of quantitative research is that the answers are pre-conceived and because of that limited. The positive side is that through questionnaires there is the ability to have a high quantity of opinions of consumers and their vision on the subject, even though the answering options are limited. ! Survey 1 was a random online survey done with 53 respondents focused on ‘the average Dutch consumer’.! Survey 2 was a specific online survey with 100 respondents focused on online fashion sellers.! Survey 3 was a specific online survey with 50 respondents focused on offline fashion sellers at the IJhallen. ! ! The combination of qualitative and quantitative research ensures different perspectives on the subject. This joint approach of research led to a more honest and realistic answer to the main questions.! ! ! Methodology per sub question:! Sub question 1. What is the current situation of the online fashion resale market in the Netherlands?! What does this movement entail? What platforms are being used here in the Netherlands? How well-known are those platforms? How many users/visitors do they have daily? Who are the main participants of this movement?! Data and information has been collected on the extent of this movement in the Netherlands, by:! • Researching data from branche organizations, such as:! Marktplaats, INretail, Textilia, Sympany, Fashion United, Eureco, NCDO, Thuiswinkel, and general data organizations CBS and OIS. —> this is collected by browsing the internet to see if there are published articles, research reports or data overviews of these organizations, but information is also collected through one-on-one interviews via email or telephone.! • Researching data from Dutch online fashion resale platforms such as United Wardrobe, The Next Closet, Designer Vintage and De Kast van Amsterdam.! • Browsing the internet for published research on the subject: consulting data bases such as Google Scholar, HvA Kennisbank, HvA online Library, UvA online Library, Web of Science, 16 Jstor, Wiley Online Library and LexisNexis searching for published articles regarding the secondhand clothing market (online and offline), C2C business models, the life cycle of a clothing piece and the post-purchase responsibility of a garment piece.! • A small online survey was held: approximately 50 random Dutch respondents. This has been an exploratory research to find out how many people are aware of this trend ! and are actually participating in it.! Sub question 2. What is driving people to participate in this movement? What are the motives of people to buy and sell used fashion online, or why not?! Data and information has been collected about the stimulants of this movement in the Netherlands, by:! • An online survey conducted with individual online sellers and buyers: users of United Wardrobe, Facebook group Kleding aangeboden/gezocht, Marktplaats and other platforms. The respondents were recruited through United Wardrobe and Facebook groups. Approximately 100 respondents.! • A survey with offline fashion resale sellers: at de IJhallen. Approximately 50 respondents.! • A focusgroup: an in-depth group discussion between female Dutch consumers 18-25 years old, asking about their needs, opinions and thoughts on this subject for the future (see appendices). Approximately 5 consumers.! • Various individual business interviews: with the owners of the platforms United Wardrobe, The ! Next Closet, Designer Vintage and De Kast van Amsterdam.! Sub question 3. What are the chances for this movement to grow in the fashion industry of the Netherlands?! How can we make it more popular, and why?! Data and information has been collected about the opportunities of this movement in the Netherlands by:! • Gathering information out of the first survey: the respondents opinions about secondhand clothing and its future. ! • Gathering information out of the second and third surveys: asking about improvements, in what way can online fashion resale become easier/better in their eyes?! 17 • Gathering information out of the interviews with platform owners: why do they think it works in the Netherlands? What can block this movement from becoming bigger? What is the future of online fashion resale, according to them?! • Gathering information out of press articles about the Dutch platforms: What is the opinion of the fashion press? Do they have a view on the future of this market? Any (negative) prospects ! or feedback?! All survey questions can be found in the Appendices. The survey data is available upon request.! ! 1.4 Limitations! The empirical data conducted for this thesis has it’s limitations. In total, the surveys count 203 respondents. However, this was done in three groups: ! 1. 53 ‘random’ consumers, where the majority was female and average age 26 years.! 2. 100 online sellers or buyers, of which 87 already sell online, 97% female and average age also 25 years.! 3. 50 sellers at the IJhallen, 90% female and average age 29 years.! These limitations color the survey results and therefore we cannot make conclusions about the ‘average Dutch consumer’. Especially the age bracket - average age of 203 respondents between 25 - 29 years old - is an important limitation to our answers. For a follow up study it would be interesting to interview a large group of women for instance over the 30 years old and see how their opinions differ from the younger group.! ! More info on research limitations and recommendations can be found in paragraph 7.3 ‘Research Limitations’.! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! 18 ! ! ! ! ! ! ! CH 2! ! Theoretical Framework ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! 19 ! Chapter 2. Theoretical Framework! This chapter will explain in depth the relevance of this research report. It will discuss the issues as a result of the current fashion industry and the antecedent of the contemporary secondhand market online and its reason to exist.! ! 2.1 Fast Fashion! Since the early years of the twentieth century the techniques of mass production were perfected and new modes of advertising and design helped produce mass consumption and consumers, who would purchase and utilize the new world of commodities. The result is the now familiar consumer society within which most of us were born and in which we work, consume, amuse ourselves and suffer (Kellner, 2014). ! As Kellner points out, we are living in a consumerist society, in which we enjoy ourselves but also suffer, in many different aspects. Not only do we suffer by letting consumption practically define our identities (Dittmar, 1992), but also the world we live in is suffering: the production of our consumption requires the use and extraction of natural resources (wood, ore, fossil fuels, and water); it requires the creation of factories whose operation creates toxic byproducts (Robbins, 2005) and are often also a seriously hazardous environment for their workers (Boonstoppel and Carabain, 2013).! ! The term fast fashion originally refers to “the retail strategy of adapting merchandise assortments to current and emerging trends as quickly and effectively as possible” (Turconi and Sull, 2008). Fast fashion retailers do not ‘predict’ as most retailers do, but they ‘follow quickly’. They are managing their supply chain to meet consumers demand (and sell more this way). If the demand is for instance, a one-shouldered cocktail dress worn by a fashion influencer such as Sienna Miller (autumn 2006), fast fashion retailers would have made sure they got it produced and on shelves within three weeks, in order to make it available for the masses.! Fast fashion developed from a product-driven concept based on a manufacturing model referred to as "quick response" developed in the U.S. in the 1980s (Lowson, King and Hunter, 1999) and moved to a market-based model of "fast fashion" in the late 1990s.! ! For the reason that fast fashion chains strive to deliver designer products to a mass market at relatively low prices, items lose their quality and production is sought elsewhere. Fast fashion is 20 now being held responsible for pollution and shoddy workmanship and has come under lots of criticism for contributing to poor working conditions in developing countries. ! ! 2.1.1 Environmental pollution! The production of clothing is part of a worldwide trade industry with a significant ecological footprint. The production of textile fibers usually requires extraordinary amounts of water and heavy chemicals. When producing one kilogram of cotton for instance - which is just enough for one pair of jeans - an average of 8000 liters of water is required (NCDO, 2014-1). On top of that, a quarter of all agricultural pesticides used worldwide are used for the cotton industry alone (NRC, 2010; DSFW, 2014; Nudge, 2014). ! With the manufacturing process of synthetic and cellulosic fibers, a high amount of oil and energy is required. For traditional synthetics, the picture is far from green. They are derived from petrochemicals, meaning their production depends on declining reserves of oil and gas and they! are not renewable. Also, their production is energy-intensive, the fibers do not biodegrade and are not easy to recycle.! ! Not only does the production of textiles cause environmental damage, transportation used for the fashion industry holds a tremendous environmental impact as well. It is an international business with the production of a single garment often involving at least three different countries. Each designer or retailer must choose among container ships, railroads, trucks and airplanes to move their garments from factory to market. Each mode of transportation sends different levels of pollution into the environment and affects different populations and ecosystems around the world (Natural Resources Defense Council, 2012). ASOS for instance, has a total carbon footprint of 23.000 tones, only for customer deliveries, and of which 97% is produced by their air freight (ASOS Responsibility, 2015). Shipments by air, which is often the fastest way for a retailer to get its goods and therefore the most used, emits more than 40 times the carbon dioxide than using a container ship for instance. ! ! 2.1.2 Ethical issues! According to the International Labour Organization, there are 246 million child-workers (ages 5 to 14) in the world today2. The Asian-Pacific region leads in child labour exploitation, followed by 2 ILO report (2002) 21 sub-Saharan Africa, Latin America and the Caribbean. In the textile sector, children are a cheap workforce for picking cotton, hand-sewing, labeling, etcetera.! Labour conditions for adult workers are also lacking humanitarian standards. Hours being too long, miserably low wages and unsafe factories are a few of the standards many textile industry personnel must work with. Take for instance the incident of 2013 in Bangladesh, where a factory collapsed and killed over 1100 workers. Or a shoe factory in Cambodia where the ceiling came down, just a month later, injuring a dozen workers. ! Textile industry workers are also often exposed to a number of chemicals, especially those engaged in the activities of dyeing, printing and finishing. Chemical dyes are cause for many diseases including commonly colorectal cancer, thyroid cancer, testicular cancer and nasal cancer (Fibre to Fashion, 2014). These examples are just a few of the humanitarian issues employers face in the industry.! ! 2.2 Consuming Fashion! The average Dutch female consumer buys around 75 clothing pieces per year (Femke Mosch, 2013) and all together the Netherlands spends about 13.8 billion euros per year on clothing and shoes (CBS, 2013).! ! Fast fashion characterizes the speed of today’s clothing production and consumption: clothing is designed to be cheap, easy and quick to produce, and is created to be distributed, sold and consumed in ever-increasing quantities (Clark, 2008). In addition to the negative environmental impacts discussed in the last section, these new standards are also influencing a garment’s life cycle.! With its convenience and affordability, fast fashion has devalued personal attachment to clothing, as items are more quickly disposed of and easily replaced (Reily and DeLong, 2011).! This “throwaway culture” is leading us to an increasing problem of textile waste. ! ! The Netherlands yearly disposes of 135 million kilos of textile, of which 65% is still suitable for recycling (Agentschap NL, 2013). This means we could reuse or recycle over 80 million kilos of textile more every year. But we don’t.! As an example: research findings of Eureco (in association with the Vereniging Herwinning Textiel en Agentschap NL) show that if no one in the Netherlands would throw away their textile waste together with their regular waste again, the country would eliminate a CO2 emission of 22 425m kilos. This reduction equals driving 2250m kilometers by car, which equals 56.000 spins around the world (Eureco, 2010). ! ! 2.3 Sustainable Fashion consumption! During the 1970’s and 1980’s, there was an increased concern with environmental and ethical issues among marketing scholars (Anderson and Cunningham, 1972; Doane, 2001; Sanne, 2002). This has encouraged new areas of research related to the effect of the environment on consumer behavior. One of the main themes that emerged from this was that of sustainable consumption (Jackson, 2004) which is defined as ‘consumption that supports the ability of current and future generations to meet their material and other needs, without causing irreversible damage to the environment or loss of function in natural systems’ (Jackson and Michaelis, 2003, p. 14).! Over the years, consumers have realized that their purchasing behavior can have a direct impact on several elements of the environment (Montoro-Rios et al., 2006). As a result, some consumers are considering environmental issues during their shopping such as checking for labels that use recycled materials or purchasing sustainable products (Laroche et al., 2001).! Not only the buying process is important when talking about sustainable consumption, also the post-purchase phase remains important, if not more. A research of Hethorn and Ulasewicz (2008) shows that most of clothes’ environmental impact is created during the using phase. Washing, wearing and disposing are a consumers responsibility, but can have great impact on the environment. Especially disposing is increasingly becoming an issue, as consumers possess more and more garments nowadays. General methods by which consumers dispose of their clothing are donating to charity, giving away to family or friends, selling through secondhand shops or C2C e-commerce, and throwing away into rubbish bins (Birtwistle and Moore, 2007). This brings us back to the 135 million kilos of textile waste every year. ! 2.3.1 Sustainable fiber production! One of the ways into a more sustainable clothing industry, is the rise of organic textile production. Zooming in on the very beginning of a garment piece, namely the production of the fiber: Organic clothing may be composed of cotton, jute, silk, ramie, or wool. In organic farming, no genetically modified seeds, pesticides or other chemical yielding aids are used. This positively affects the environment, agriculture and the health of cotton planters worldwide. 23 Textiles that are certified as organic means that both the production of the fibre on the farm, and the processing of this fibre into textiles has met organic agricultural standards and has been checked at every step of the processing supply chain for social and environmental responsibility (Organic Cotton Market Report, 2011).! Next to the organic production process of natural fibers, there are also more and more sustainable options appearing for man-made fibers, including cellulosic- and synthetic fibers. Recycled polyester (made from PET), Ingeo (made from a polymer derived from corn), Bamboo Rayon (viscose alternative made from a bamboo plant) are examples of sustainable alternatives for synthetic fibers. On top of that there are now fabric alternatives made out of wood (Tencel), beechwood (Modal), Hennep and Soya, and farmers conceived a friendlier version of silk (Peace silk), recycled cotton and ecologically tanned or vegetarian leather (DSFW, 2014). There is even textile being made from bacteria now (BioCouture, 2014).! ! 2.3.2 Recycling and reusing textiles! Of all the textile that is already on this planet, and all the future textiles that will be manufactured, a tremendous amount ends up in local waste incinerators, producing more pollution and negative health impact by burning the waste and generating gas and ashes during this process (Greenpeace Digital Report, 1999). Recycling and reusing these textiles is a sustainable solution for this problem. Textile recycling can mean that textile products are being processed back into fibers and turned into paper, yarn, insulation, carpet padding, and other items (Secondary Materials and Recycled Items Report, 2012). Reusing textiles can of course entail cutting up old clothing into cleaning cloths and so, but mostly this is done keeping the garment piece intact and giving it a second life.! ! 2.4 Reusing initiatives! One way to give your garment a second life is to simply give it away, for someone else to reuse it. 88.5 Percent of the Dutch are used to bringing their unwanted or unused garment pieces to a charity textile container or directly to a charity, and about 37% give their clothing away to family or friends (NCDO, 2012). Next to donating clothing to people in need, or relatives in need, a big part of the Dutch consumer also sees a business opportunity in these unused garments.! ! ! ! 24 2.4.1 Secondhand stores! One of the very first reusing business initiatives are secondhand stores. People have always been wearing secondhand clothing in the sense that it is not a new practice, but in the 1990s it became popular as part of a fashion trend, which led to secondhand shops opening in big cites all around the world (Calefato, 2004). Around 2000, secondhand stores lost its popularity. Looking at Amsterdam for instance, the amount of secondhand stores in the city was decreasing heavily (Dienst Onderzoek en Statistiek, 2007), and is now not more than around 50 stores (tweedehandskledingwinkels.nl, 2014). But, since an economic recession came into our lives and motivated consumers to cut back on spendings, including clothing, the secondhand market has seen growth again. Recent data of the OIS of Amsterdam shows that the amount of secondhand clothing stores in our capital city has been increasing again since 2010 until now. Especially vintage fashion - used fashion from the 1920’s until 1990’s - became a popular commerce.! ! 2.4.2 Secondhand markets! Thrift shopping can be broadly denned as consumers are shopping in a number of alternative retail formats such as estate sales, garage sales, yard sales, flea markets and thrift stores (Bardhi, 2003). Thrift shopping is not just for those individuals with limited economic resources (Bardhi, 2003; Sherry, 1990). Instead, it is a form of shopping which appeals to a large number of consumers with a wide range of household income.! A well known and very successful thrift shopping/secondhand market initiative in the Netherlands is the ‘IJhallen’ in Amsterdam. A monthly flea market holding 750 stands (IJhallen, 2014). Next to selling consumer-to-consumer antiques and secondhand furniture, the clothing section has been expanding the past years. The flea market has an established and still growing popularity, with around 80.000 ‘likes’ on Facebook3.! ! 2.4.3 Swap events & Closet sales! Another key action that reduces waste and extends products lives is swapping. As a disposal method swapping is not a new activity, since exchanging clothes between friends and family members is very common (Fisher et al., 2008). But in the past years special swap events have taken place in order to work toward a more sustainable fashion industry. Big institutes such as The Global Fashion Exchange are organizing clothing swap markets all around the world, 3 on May 27th, 2015. 25 starting in Copenhagen where 1500 people swapped 5.2 tons of clothes (Global Fashion Exchange, 2014). Local organizations such as ‘Krijg de Kleren!’ hosted a monthly clothing swap event at different locations in Amsterdam between 2010 and 2014, and turned out to be the biggest clothing swap event in the Netherlands so far (FoliaWeb, 2014). The American website SwapStyle.com is an example of a digital swap place for clothing, aimed to swap clothing and accessories with people all around the world.! Swapping clothing is a part of the ‘collaborative consumption’ ideal, which is ultimately about people sharing and collaborating to meet certain needs, whether it concerns transportation, accommodation, land etcetera. Existing examples include AirBnB (space sharing) and ZipCar (car sharing), although the term collaborative consumption covers practically all types of products and services where people share excess resources (Pedersen and Netter, 2013). Collaborative consumption is experiencing significant growth (Botsman and Rogers, 2010) and is expected to have great business potential for the fashion industry.! ! 2.4.4 Clothing library! A fairly new initiative is a clothing library. Just like in a regular library, a consumer has the option to borrow a garment piece for a limited amount of time. After the borrowing period there is the possibility to buy the item. A Dutch example of a clothing library is ‘LENA - the fashion library’ in Amsterdam, founded in 2014. Fashion libraries and other initiatives based on the collaborative consumption model are popping up all over the world. They represent a new and innovative concept that breaks with the dominant fashion business model based on buying and selling. Aside from the fact that existing fashion library models are experiencing a number of challenges related to limited resources and the existing ownership culture, a study of the Copenhagen Business School (2013) is advising new start-ups and more established brands to glean important lessons from the fashion library experience, and begin to build offerings to consumers with the collaborative consumption model in mind - in order to carve the way for collaborative consumption to become common practice in the fashion industry.! ! 2.4.5 Retail initiatives:! Conceptualizations of the post-retail fate of garments have typically been derived from a textile recycling perspective or from a consumer behavior perspective by studying consumers’ use and disposal habits of their unwanted garments (Kant Hvass, 2013). But since designers, producers 26 and retailers are bringing these textiles into the world, should the post-purchase responsibility not be with the retailers themselves?! Currently there are several discussions at legislative level on Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR), pioneered by French self financing entity Eco TLC (Kelly, 2012). ! In this context, a handful of fashion brands have started reviewing their business models to incorporate ‘complete life cycle’ strategies into their practices (Kant Hvass, 2013).! The global fashion chain H&M collected over 13.000 tons of textile in 2014 of their customers4, with the goal of upcycling this used clothing into a new collection; the Conscious Collection.! Filippa K created ‘Filippa K Second Hand’ in collaboration with a local Swedish consignment store where pre-owned clothes and collection samples are being sold. ! Eileen Fisher has the ‘Green Eileen Initiative’ including several Green Eileen secondhand stores with the same purpose. The outdoor clothing brand Patagonia has gone a step further with their ‘Common Threads Initiative’ including in-store product take-back and a Patagonia-only resell platform in collaboration with eBay.! The more fashion brands take this responsibility, the more it can change the unsustainable practices of the current fashion industry.! ! 2.4.6 Not sustainable enough! Of course reusing or swapping garment pieces does not tackle the problem of fast fashion in its roots. A hunger for new clothing is still being fed, by making (secondhand) clothing cheaper and more accessible in a consumers life. This way it can still encourage people to keep buying and buying and buying. Some say this hunger and desire should be brought back to a slower pace, where better quality and the cherishing of garments are of higher value in the buying process (Business of Fashion, 2013). This evolved in the movement of ‘slow fashion’: a collective formed to encourage a consumer’s education about the garment industry’s impact on the environment and as an incentive to choose quality - and therefore durability - over quantity.! It is important to not see the secondhand clothing market as a completely sustainable solution, but to also try and change our buying behavior.! ! ! ! ! 4 Fashion United, 2015 27 2.5 Conclusion! The (fast) fashion industry is mainly responsible for a great amount of ethical and environmental issues influencing the entire world. Sustainable initiatives have risen and are gaining popularity with the current consumer, as their conscience is being addressed. Next to eco-friendly producing methods, and the recycling of textiles and fibers, a movement focussed on reusing fashion items is evolving. ! 88% of the Dutch consumers believes it is important that clothing is being reused (NCDO, 2014b). This can be done in various ways; donating, swapping, leasing, reselling etcetera. More and more of such initiatives are establishing themselves nowadays, driven by consumers and retailers perspectives, unfortunately, not nearly enough to make a difference. Awareness needs to be raised and consumers need to be educated more about the clothing industry’s impact on the environment and the workers in the supply chain.! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! 28 ! ! ! ! CH 3! ! The online C2C fashion market ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! 29 ! ! ! Chapter 3. The online C2C fashion market ! ! With the digitalization of the current Western societies, it is only natural that the reusing initiatives mentioned in the last chapter are establishing an online market. Especially the resale of fashion from consumer to consumer is gaining attention on the world wide web. This chapter looks at the online fashion resale market in the United States and ! ! 3.1 C2C e-commerce! C2C stands for consumer-to-consumer, focussed on commerce directly between consumers. Recently, armed with the global connectivity provided by the internet, C2C commerce has begun to extend into the online domain in a manner significant both in financial terms as well as for its impact on consumer behavior (Mäkeläinen, 2006). A well-known worldwide example for this would be the online marketplace eBay, an auction and selling website that has been one of the leaders of C2C e-commerce since it launched in 2005. In the Netherlands, the most popular C2C e-commerce site is Marktplaats.nl , followed by E-bay.nl and Bol.com’s marketplace5. These three websites represent far above 50% of all C2C e-commerce transactions in the Netherlands6. ! ! Remarkably, in the Netherlands, the online C2C e-commerce market seems to outweigh the B2C7 e-commerce market in terms of sales volume. Where the turnover of the online B2C market in 2013 was around 10.8 billion euros, Marktplaats alone had a turnover that same year of almost 14 billion euros (Shopping2020, 2014).! We can only imagine that this has been growing over the past years, especially since more and more C2C platforms are emerging since then.! C2C e-commerce is known for its advantages such as easy access, high profitability and low transaction costs. However, there is also the risk of a non-guaranteed payment or that the quality of the product does not match the buyer’s expectations (Dan, 2014). That is where the in-between websites come in: online consumer-to-consumer platforms with a template for displaying and often providing a secure and convenient payment method, compared to Social Media groups or other unregulated fora.! 5 Interview Prof. Jesse Weltevreden, see appendices Interview Prof. Jesse Weltevreden, see appendices 7 Business-to-consumer 6 30 EBay, Marktplaats, Craigslist, AirBnB, Kickstarter and Peerby all offer functions to enable C2C transactions and interactions. These intermediary websites are facilitated in large part by offering free classified advertisements, auctions, fora and individual pages for start-up entrepreneurs or just regular private sellers. A small fee is often charged to the sellers, which is mostly the main income of the website, together with paid advertisements.! ! 3.2 C2C e-commerce in fashion! Research shows that 4% of the Dutch consumers frequently resell their unwanted or unused clothing in a secondhand shop, while almost 10% resell it on the internet nowadays8. This is a very interesting analysis, meaning that of all the unwanted clothing in the Netherlands, more than a double is being sold on the internet, instead of being sold in brick-and-mortar secondhand businesses.! ! 3.2.1 Online C2C fashion market on Social Media:! Social media has become a popular place for people to resell their unwanted clothing, mostly because this already holds an online community which makes it easier to generate customers. Especially Facebook is a well-used media platform for the resale of fashion in the Netherlands. ‘Kleding Aangeboden/Gezocht’ is by far the most popular Facebook group focussed on consumer to consumer clothing sales, with now over 21.000 members9. This group is meant for all of the Netherlands to communicate with each other and bid on another persons ‘unwanted’ fashion items. Other Facebook groups are more local and therefore smaller, e.g. ‘Kleding ruil/verkoop Leiden’ (270 members) or ‘Amsterdamse kleding’ (193 members).! With the advantage of no warehouse costs, no marketing costs and no legal costs, Facebook or other social media groups are the most economic way for a seller to resell his/hers unwanted clothing. But this also brings challenges with it. Issues such as trust, monetary transactions or no product-take-back are making these platforms an unsafe trading place and it is losing popularity because of it10.! ! ! 8 NCDO, 2012 on February 6th, 2015 - see appendices for overview. 10 Focusgroup discussion outcome - see appendices for summary. 9 31 3.2.2 Online C2C fashion market places! Derived from unstructured social media platforms and the clothing section on general C2C ecommerce giants such as eBay and Marktplaats, online C2C platforms have become a serious business opportunity for the fashion industry. This opportunity arouse since there is a certain need for trusted, third party entities offering the required infrastructure for C2C e-commerce11 in order to solve issues mentioned in the last paragraph. Taking as an example the website unitedwardrobe.nl, an online C2C marketplace focussed on clothing, shoes and accessories. The incentive to set up this business was a female friend of the owner complaining about trust and transaction issues when she was buying and selling fashion on social media.! ! 3.2.2.1 Online fashion market places in the US! Looking at the United States as an inspiration, for the reason that a great deal of new online fashion resale platforms have been established there in the past five years (with some amazing revenues). To name a few: The RealReal (founded 2011), Bib+Tuck (2011), Poshmark (2011), Copious (2011), Vaunte (2012), Threadflip (2012), Shop-Hers (2012), Twice (2012), Material Wrld (2012), The Luxury Closet (2012), Tradesy (2012), Walk in My Closet (2013), SnobSwap (2013), Portero (2014). ! Revenues and investments of these platforms are remarkably high: e.g. US based platform ’The RealReal’ had a revenue of 55 million dollars in 2013 (Bloomberg Business Week, 2014), ‘Twice’ raised 23 million dollars in funding only (Forbes, 2014), ‘Vaunte’ raised 1.2 million dollars in funding (TechCrunch, 2013), and we can list out a few more. All dealing with secondhand fashion items.! Of course there are differences in the value of the goods, and therefore in platforms and their target groups - and their revenues. There are high-end fashion items such as Chanel bags, Hermes scarves, Prada shoes etcetera being sold through certain platforms, who deliberately have a main focus on this price segment. On the other hand there are platforms focussed on the resale of fast fashion items such as H&M and Zara products; with shirts and dresses for not over 20 euros. ! ! ! ! ! 11 interview Thijs Verheul, owner United Wardrobe - see appendices for summary 32 ! Price segments! Lets divide the US online fashion resale market into three segments:! ! Price Segment Main focus on the resale of.. Includes platforms such as.. Premium Women’s luxury fashion items selling The RealReal ! brands like Chanel, Hermes and Prada. ! Vaunte! Snobswap ! The product mostly goes from consumer Shop Hers ! to business to consumer. Portero ! Material Wrld Mid Women’s Designers fashion items selling brands like Marc Jacobs, Filippa K and Rag&Bone. Low Women’s (fast) fashion items selling Thred Up! brands like Calvin Klein, Zara and GAP. ! Twice! Poshmark! The product mostly goes directly from Threadflip consumer to consumer. ! Walk in My Closet ! Bib+Tuck ! ! The RealReal, Vaunte, Walk in My Closet, SnobSwap, Material Wrld and Portero are all profit driven businesses that make their money by functioning as an in-between business, avoiding consumers to have actual contact with each other. This is more of a consumer-to-business-toconsumer model instead of a consumer-to-consumer business model.! Just as regular brick-and-mortar consignment shops, these online platforms take possession of the merchandise, and will then sell it again, sharing the profit with you. ! ! ! How it works! The process of buying and selling at the mentioned online marketplaces mostly goes like this:! 1. The online store invites the seller to send over the unwanted items.! 2. A pick up at your house is arranged by a transportation company hired by the business itself.! 3. The store will choose what they buy from the seller and what they will not buy.! 4. If the company decides not to purchase said item, they have the options of returning to seller or asking permission to donate the items to a charity of their choice.! 5. The items the company buys from you, in consignment, are stored in a warehouse. A team of stylists and photographers will shoot attractive photographs of the items and post them online.! 33 6. When the item sells, the seller will receive a percentage of the buying price the company has established for you, most of the time around 70%. The other 30% goes to the company. This is on average a much better deal than in regular brick and mortar secondhand shops.! 7. If the item does not sell after a certain period of time, they offer the same option as with the items that are not going into consignment: they can get sent back to the home address or ! donated to a charity the company is collaborating with.! Platforms such as Bib + Tuck and Copious have a different business model. These platforms let you produce and upload the photos of your garments yourself (they might do a quick scan to check if it is representable), and let you be the seller. These companies do not have a warehouse where they collect the items, you as a seller will have the products with you until they are sold online. What they are offering their sellers is merely an online template with an established community, safe monetary transactions and insured sendings. This difference often also shows in the percentages a seller has to hand over to the company; it requires less work and therefore a lower percentage of what a seller has to pay the webshop is asked. The balance is often 80-20 or 90-10, compared to an average 60-40 or 70-30 with the online consignment stores.! ! Another different concept is that of the company Material Wrld. This website works just as the online consignment stores, as it lets you send your items (or get picked up) to their offices and will then post it online for you. However, you will not earn liquid cash for your sold products. Instead you will receive a retailer gift card that you can use at department stores such as Barneys New York, Bloomingdale’s or Nordstrom. ! This is interesting since it encourages the consumer to buy secondhand, but also to keep buying new garments. Therefore this would not count as a sustainable alternative.! ! Poshmark also has a particular business model. This C2C platform is completely focussed on mobile users. It suits as an application on your smartphone, with which you can shoot pictures, put an attractive filter over it and upload it right away. Poshmark aims to be more than a marketplace, by hosting real-time digital ‘Poshmark parties’ where the members gather in the app to buy and sell within certain themes or designers. Consciously, it is building a highly engaged community and tries to acknowledge how shopping is inherently a social experience for women.! 34 3.2.2.2 Online fashion resale market places in the Netherlands! In the Netherlands, this market of online C2C fashion platforms is just starting to grow. ! Popular Dutch online C2C fashion marketplaces at this moment are12:! • United Wardrobe (founded 2013)! • Designer Vintage (founded 2008)! • The Next Closet (founded 2013)! • Luxury Vintage (founded 2013)! • De Kast van Amsterdam (founded 2013)! • Trash to Treasure (founded 2013)! ! • Poppintags (founded 2014)! Looking at the Dutch platforms, similar differences appear between these marketplaces, just as with the American platforms. Where United Wardrobe and Poppintags (both launched within the last years) let you produce and upload the photos of your garment yourself, the rest of the mentioned webshops maintain the authentic B2C model of consignment stores by keeping a warehouse where the clothing is being collected. The Next Closet chooses to do both, offering a DIY service and a Premium service on their website, where the DIY service requires the seller to make their own images and prices and the Premium service picks up the goods and lets the TNC office photograph and price the items. The DIY service is also frequently used by small boutiques to create an online presence for themselves.! ! Price segments! Dividing the Dutch online platforms into the same price segments:! 12 Price Segment Main focus on the resale of.. Includes platforms such as.. Premium Women’s luxury fashion items selling brands like Chanel, Louis Vuitton and Prada. Luxury-Vintage Mid Women’s Designers fashion items selling brands like Isabel Marant, DvF and Spijkers&Spijkers. The Next Closet! Designer-Vintage Low Women’s (fast) fashion items selling brands like Tommy Hilfiger, Topshop and Levi’s. ! United Wardrobe! Trash to Treasure! Poppintags! De Kast van Amsterdam See appendices for ranking list 35 3.3 Conclusion! It seems as though the online market for secondhand clothing is growing in popularity in the United States, as well as in the Netherlands. In the past four years, a numerous amount of new webshops opened, all with a different approach on how to share and sell from a consumers closet. ! This movement has gained a great amount of attention under consumers and entrepreneurs in Europe and the US, where platforms like these are seen as a valuable business opportunity. High investments are made into the business models with the hope of eventually having a globally online fashion resale market.! In the Netherlands, this market can still grow existentially, provided that the consumers are ready for it. ! ! This research is an attempt to discover the current extent of the movement in the Netherlands, what the motivation behind this movement entails and what kind of opportunities lie in the future.! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! 36 ! ! ! ! ! ! CH 4! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! 37 Current online C2C market Chapter 4. What is the current situation of the online consumer to consumer clothing market in the Netherlands?! In order to find out in what ways the online fashion resale movement can become a prevailing trend in the Netherlands, we first need to map out the magnitude of it. What is its reach? Who knows about it? Who are its users? The coming chapter will answer these questions by online research, interviews with established platform owners and other professionals, and an online conducted survey.! ! 4.1 How well known is the online C2C fashion market in the Netherlands nowadays?! Marktplaats.nl has one of the strongest positions in the online consumer-to-consumer market13 with over 1.3 million daily visitors14. This can also be stated about their fashion section. According to a research by InSites Consulting an average of 69% of the online fashion consumers frequently visits Marktplaats to browse for secondhand clothing15. In 2012, the ‘Womens Clothing’ section had the second most listings of all Marktplaats listings that year with over 11,3 million secondhand clothing advertisements16. This shows there is a huge animo for secondhand clothing now.! The biggest online C2C platform with an absolute focus on fashion is currently UnitedWardrobe.com. This platform has over 55.000 users - which equals about 0,3 per cent of the entire Dutch population17 - and around 75.000 unique monthly visitors (interview T. Verheul). It has gone live since 2013 and seems to currently gain around a thousand new members each month. ! ! 4.1.1 Theoretical: press and information! According to Bregje Lampe (Fashion Editor at De Volkskrant) the online secondhand clothing market is growing extensively18. The economical crisis of the last years might have been a trigger she says; people are searching for ways to spend less money on clothing (De Onderzoek Groep, 2013), and still remain in line with their previous style and standards. She cites the example of ‘Vestiaire Collective’, a French platform, that now has over 1.5 million 13 Interview Prof. Jesse Weltevreden - see appendices for summary Marktplaats, 2014 15 Marktplaats Media, 2011 16 Marktplaats Jaaroverzicht, 2012 17 CBS, 2014 18 De Volkskrant, 2013 + in-depth interview - see appendices for summary 14 38 members and got an injection of 14.6 million euros from Condé Nast. This shows that there is room for such initiatives now.! Lieke Pijpers - Marketing & Sales Manager of The Next Closet - confirms this growth. TNC has circa 2000 members and 13.000 unique visitors monthly and this is expanding rapidly every month.! More fashion professionals share this idea. Fashion United cites used clothing as a ‘gold mine on the internet’ (Fashion United, 2014) and Sophie Zimmerman (de Telegraaf, 2013) points out that used clothing has transcended its dusty image: “The revaluation of old garments, fueled by the current economical crisis, is a trend where many entrepreneurs are jumping in nowadays”. This translates in the capital injection of the French online platform ‘Vestiaire Collective’ in 2013, followed by G+J Uitgevers that decided to monopolize the Dutch online luxury fashion platform ‘Designer Vintage’ in that same year (Textilia, 2013).! This overview shows there is indeed interest towards this emerging market of online fashion resale, also in the Netherlands.! ! 4.1.2 Empirical: Survey Data ! An online survey was conducted with 53 respondents about the current reach and awareness of the online fashion resale platforms.! ! ! Results & Discussion! Buying secondhand! Of the questioned respondents, only 88% frequently buys secondhand clothing. The 12% that states never to buy secondhand clothing claims to prefer new garments over used ones as the biggest reason not to buy. ! Of course we are aware that secondhand is not for everyone. However, the platforms do have categories of the usage state of a garment piece and new items are included. But, it ís almost a fact that the fashion on these platforms is bound to be outdated, since it is bought by someone a certain period of time before it appears on the site. This is why for instance online platforms with a focus on classical fashion items, such as The Next Closet, might have a better formula to reach a big audience. A well-made black dress, blazer or coat (preferably from a known designer) shows quality and a style that lasts longer than the average fast fashion item.! 39 One of the other decisive reasons of why 12% of the respondents are not buying secondhand is because they find it a bigger hassle to find the right item, the right size or the right style compared to regular clothing webshops - that offer a size and color range per item. ! This points out how important it is for an online platform to have an organized and optimal search engine. As well as a division by sub collections with their own style and choice of fabrics. United Wardrobe for instance has developed an important new algorithm that makes your page overview as personal as possible by saving your preferences, your size and your likes.! But where?! Figure 1. Where do you buy secondhand clothing? Online 18% Secondhand Stores 35% Events 14% Markets 33% Figure 1 shows that, of the 88% that buys secondhand clothing, more respondents bought this in physical stores or markets than online. This does not correspond with for instance the data of the NCDO in 2012 - mentioned in chapter 3 - where only 4% resell their garments at a secondhand shop against a 10% that frequently resell their clothing on the internet. It seems as though people prefer to sell on the internet, but are still mostly buying in physical stores. This could be so because the online market is not at the same standards as the physical secondhand market yet. Buyers find it unsafe to buy online from consumer to consumer, and are often unaware of the existence of the current platforms and their benefits. Markets and secondhand events also seem to be a popular sales market for private individuals. ! 40 Figure 2. Where do you buy secondhand online? 60 60 53 49 Recognition in % 45 30 31 24 15 15 8 0 Marktplaats Facebook eBay Asos MP UW Poppintags none ! Secondhand platforms online! When asking the respondents what online platforms they know to purchase secondhand clothing with, Marktplaats and Facebook were the most well-known. Respondents had to choose from a list including Marktplaats, Facebook, eBay, Asos Marketplace, United Wardrobe, Poppintags or none of the above. A respondent could know more than one of the mentioned platforms, which is the reason why the percentages do not add up to a total of 100.! ! And where did you actually purchase?! Of the 30% that frequently buys secondhand clothing on the internet, every single person has bought a garment piece via Marktplaats once. This confirms the fact the Marktplaats is still the biggest player on the online C2C fashion field and is seen as one of the biggest competitors still (interview UW and TNC). Facebook is the second most popular place where the respondents 41 have ever purchased a secondhand item (79%). Only 26% purchased something via United Wardrobe, or other specialized platforms. eBay and Asos Marketplace do not seem to be popular places to buy secondhand among these Dutch respondents.! ! Selling your own garments! When asking the respondents whether they have sold a fashion item of their own in the last year, 43% said yes, against a close majority of 57% that did not sell or has ever sold a fashion item of their own in any way. Of the 43% that díd sell their own items in the past year, 39% sold 0-5 items, while 47% sold more than 10 items. The frequency with which the respondents sell their own clothing is diverse. ! If yes, where?! Of the respondents that frequently sell their own clothing, the majority (60%) does this online. This makes an interesting comparison with the scarce 30% that buys secondhand clothing online. We could conclude that there is more supply than there is demand for secondhand fashion online. This also gets confirmed by the question about the preferences of the respondents to buy and sell online or offline. The majority prefers to buy secondhand clothing offline (75%), while the majority also prefers to sell their own clothing online (62%). This does not go well together. It shows that the consumers might not be ready for the online secondhand clothing market yet and that the market might need to make some changes in order to convince the consumer that buying secondhand online has its benefits. ! ! Where do you sell online?! Marktplaats and Facebook are the most used platforms for the respondents to sell their own clothing. This corresponds well with the data outcome of what platforms are used most to buy secondhand clothing on. ! Can we convince you?! Of the 57% that has not ever sold their own garments, the majority (67%) is indeed interested to be doing this in the future. This is a good prospect. ! The future of secondhand! When asking the respondents whether they believe that they will personally buy secondhand clothing more often in the future, the vast majority (74%) says “Yes”. They do ask for more and easier possibilities to do this, but are also agreeing on the quote that ‘we - as consumers - are 42 getting more and more aware of the impact that the clothing industry is having on the world around us and we will all focus more on sustainability in the future’. ! ! ! Survey Data Limitations! For the reason that this survey only collected data during a limited period of time, and had a total of just 53 participants, a certain caution should be taken when interpreting the results. Further research is advised to see if the results can be replicated with a larger group of respondents.! Of the respondents 77% were female, and 13% male. These figures might limit our insight regarding the male sector of this market, but do attest to the fact that this is still a feminine consumer dominated market, which is why the female opinion matters right now.! Another 77% of the respondents are currently residing in Amsterdam. This might also be of influence on the answers that are given, seeing that bigger cities always seem to be the leader when it comes to fashion and trends, and the smaller villages to be the followers.! The average age of the respondents was between 22 and 24 years old. When viewing the age bracket of the respondents we can assume that an older age bracket would have differing responses, and therefore the outcome is subjective.! ! ! Survey Data Conclusion! According to the data collected a large percentage (88%) of the respondents are frequently purchasing secondhand. One-third of the secondhand buyers make their purchases online. Marktplaats, e-Bay and Facebook are most well-known by the participants, although not many have reported to make use of the e-Bay platform. The participants reported that they use Marktplaats and Facebook pages the most to purchase secondhand ánd sell their own garments. ! Not too many people are selling their own clothing yet (43%), but of the 43% that is, the majority does this online (60%). ! And of the 57% that does not sell their own garments yet, two-third is interested in doing this in the future. ! The majority of the respondents claim to buy more secondhand fashion in the future.! Most respondents prefer buying secondhand fashion offline instead of online. While the majority chooses to sell their secondhand items online. This does not align. In order to solve this problem, the online market should try to integrate the benefits of buying secondhand offline into 43 their platform. For instance, since you cannot try an item on when purchasing it online, it should have an easy and free returning service. Another option would be to wait to apply the actual monetary transaction until a buyer has received the product at home and tried it on. ! In order to address the problem that people want to see and feel the fabric of the item, the description per item needs to be as detailed as possible. The complete material overview, sizes, shape and fall. Asos shows it’s clients how products move through a virtual catwalk, which could prove to be beneficial for other platforms.! Another problem to counteract is that people enjoy having contact between seller-buyer. The aspect of seeing the person you’re buying it from or selling it to, gives a certain value to the product. A platform such as De Kast van Amsterdam solves this by letting the seller write a personal note about the item that they are sending to the buyer, explaining when they wore it and what kind of experiences they had with it. This could make the buying experience more intimate and personal.! ! 4.2 Who are the main users of these online marketplaces?! The users of the online fashion platforms distinguish themselves by the market segment of the platform itself. Users of the low-segment platforms tend to be between 16 and 25 years19. While users of the mid and high segment platforms seem to have a higher age-average, which is more around 30 years20. One thing we can say with certainty is that the majority of the users are female. Male users do have a presence, and it is definitely growing, but the focus lies on women.! United Wardrobe confirms this by their user profile statistics (see appendices) where the majority of their users are female, between 18-24 years old.! ! The Next Closet points out that their user profile differs between their services. The website includes a DIY service and a Premium service. The DIY service requires the consumer to make its own pictures, and upload them on their own little ‘boutique’ on the website. This is comparable to the C2C business models of United Wardrobe and Poppintags. The average user of the DIY service is in her end twenties, early thirties. While the average user of their Premium service, where TNC does the selling themselves, is more around 40 - 65 years old. This also relates to the products, since the Premium service is used mostly for products with a higher 19 20 interview United Wardrobe - see appendices for summary interview The Next Closet & Designer Vintage - see appendices for summary 44 financial value, coming from ladies with a higher income that they have earned over the years (interview Lieke Pijpers, TNC).! ! 4.3 Conclusion! As previously stated, secondhand clothing has lost its dusty image. Many consumers are frequently buying secondhand and several people are claiming to buy even more secondhand in the future. This mainly because the collections have extended to unique - almost antique clothing from years and years ago (vintage) but also exceptionally recent fashion from only one season ago, that is offered for a better price. However, the majority of the respondents prefer offline purchasing of over online purchasing. Marktplaats and Facebook are well known as a medium for this, but most of the consumers are not aware that there are online resale platforms focussed on fashion existing. ! Their demand is mostly that it should cost them as little effort as possible, to make them willing to participate.! ! Women are the main users so far. The platforms often have their own target groups naturally established by the services they provide and their product selection. ! The largest group of users are now younger women with the age roughly between 18 and 24 years old. Then there is a high-end market with female users with a the age more around 30. The market of used fashion for children and men is still developing. ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! 45 ! ! ! ! ! ! CH 5! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! 46 The motives for people to participate Chapter 5. What is driving people to participate in this movement?! Second-hand clothing shoppers appear to be motivated by several factors.! According to Guiot and Roux (2010) fair price, ethics, environmental concerns, and! recreational benefits have enabled the proliferation of second-hand markets. However, many say the economical crisis gave a substantial boost to the secondhand market nowadays. Or is it the trending sustainability movement that makes people rethink their fast fashion habits? ! This chapter finds out: What are the stimulants of the consumers to buy and sell used clothing online?! ! 5.1 Theoretical! 5.1.1 Business owners! Four in-depth interviews were conducted with the owners of online resale platforms United Wardrobe, The Next Closet, Designer-Vintage and De Kast van Amsterdam, and an interview with fashion journalist Bregje Lampe. We have asked the fashion professionals about their view on the motivation of secondhand buyers and sellers.! ! ! Buying used fashion! Finding exclusive pieces that are often still in great shape, for an economically very good deal, is the main stimulant for the buyers in this movement according to The Next Closet. Unique pieces, a Chanel bag for instance, that normally would be unaffordable to most people, are now being brought together on a platform where that same group of people can buy this with almost an 80% discount. ! Depending on the target group, the stimulants differ. One target group searches mainly for vintage fashion, and has a stimulant of uniqueness behind it. One target group looks for bargains since they do not have so much money to spend and discovered used fashion is an economical way to get (quality) clothing. Another target group is against consumerism and only wants to recycle or reuse clothing. But the fact that the garments are often quite cheap in relation to their quality shows to be a stimulant for all target groups. Bregje Lampe confirms this when explaining how the economical crisis might have been a big stimulation for people to cut back on clothing expenses and finding ways to ‘get more for less’. Another reason for people to buy secondhand according to the platform owners is the exclusivity of the garments. Taking real 47 ‘vintage’ finds as an example, made in the fifties for instance; these are rare items that are often one of a kind and you cannot buy in a regular shop anymore. This is what makes them unique and exclusive. ! ! ! Selling used fashion! The stimulant of the sellers seems to be more about cleaning out their closets, making room and tidying up the house, according to the platform owners. When people have spent money on a certain fashion item or had an emotional connection with it but then do not seem to be using it for a long period of time, they tend to feel like it is a waste of the product that is made (and the money that they have spent). It would make them feel at ease when somebody else is experiencing happiness through the same product and can give it back the value and attention it deserves. It is not only about earning some extra cash, it is also about the emotional connection consumers want to have with a fashion product, or that they become aware that that connection is missing. Nevertheless, the recession has been a major stimulation for people to seek for ways to earn something extra, according to Bregje Lampe. “Just as with AirBnB, where people discovered they could earn some money by renting out their living space, people also found out they can earn some money with selling garments that are not being used anyway. If there is an easy way for people to make money, they will do it.”! ! 5.1.2 Analysis Facebook sellers posts ! Analyzing the most popular Facebook group for secondhand clothing ‘Kleding aangeboden/ gezocht’ (21.521 members21) exhibited the following results: ! Most of the sellers do not necessarily include a reason of why they are selling their products in their posts, but we can assume that financial reasons is one of them, since the sellers dó ask a price for their items instead of giving them away for free. Of the posts that did indeed show a reason of selling, the most mentioned reason was “Cleaning up”. We have come across a lot of posts where the seller begins their story with “I am cleaning out my closet” or “I needed to tidy up my house”22. This corresponds well with the view of the business owners about their target group’s stimulants to sell.! ! ! 21 22 See appendices for ranking list See appendices for overview of Facebook posts 48 5.2 Empirical! Trying to find out what the motivational aspects of this movement are, two surveys were conducted with a total of 150 respondents focussing on consumers that sell their own clothing. The first survey was done online, focused on online sellers. The second survey was done at the IJhallen, a big secondhand market in Amsterdam, and had a focus on offline sellers and their opinions.! Both surveys can be found in the appendices.! ! 5.2.1 Survey Data - Online sellers! An online survey was conducted with 100 respondents about the motivation to sell and buy used fashion items online.! ! ! Results & Discussion! Out of the 100 respondents, 87 sell their own clothing online. ! ! We’ve asked those 87 participants where they do this. The majority sells their fashion items through Marktplaats (67%) and Facebook (62%), which corresponds well with the last chapter, in which we concluded that Marktplaats and Facebook are the two main players when it comes to buying and selling secondhand online.! 33% also sells on United Wardrobe, and only 2% sells on eBay.! ! So you sell, but why?! We’ve asked the group of online sellers what their main motivation for this is. They could choose the following answers:! “Financial reasons: I could use the cash”! “Cleaning up: I needed to make space in my closet”! “Environmentally aware: I believe people should reuse as much as possible”! “Hobby: I like to share my fashion style with others”! “Other”: they could add another reason themselves.! ! ! ! ! ! 49 Figure 3. Stimulants of online sellers Votes out of 97 online sellers 80 75 66 60 40 30 20 0 18 Cleaning up Financial Environment Hobby The majority says “Cleaning up” their closets was the main reason to sell their own clothing. Followed closely by “Financial reasons”. It is interesting to compare this outcome with the hypotheses mentioned in the first chapter, in which we predicted that the sellers are only driven by financial stimulus. Partly, this is correct, and completely logical because if this was not a component, the sellers could just donate it to charitable institutions. But apparently tidying up the house, creating space in your closet is also a main factor to drive people to sell their own clothing.! Out of 97 participants, 30 tell us they do it from a sustainable perspective. This is a little over one-third, which ideally would be pushed towards a majority in the coming years. This was also expected this way and is another factor showing us how much effort there is still to put in the environmental awareness of the Dutch consumer, and how reusing clothing is a part of that.! ! So you sell. But do you buy?! 95 out of the 100 respondents also buy secondhand. Only 4 sellers claim to only sell, and never buy.! Out of the 95 that do frequently buy secondhand clothing, 78 also does this online. This is a very positive outcome, seeing that in the first survey, only 30% buys secondhand online. ! If so, where?! We asked those 95 consumers where they buy their online secondhand clothing. ! The majority buys secondhand on Facebook (60%) and Marktplaats (48%). ! 50 eBay and Poppintags are not very popular.! And tell us, why?! We’ve also asked the sellers why they purchase secondhand clothing frequently. They had the choice between the following answers:! “It is cheaper than buying in regular shops”! “It is more exclusive than buying in regular shops”! “It is better for the environment than buying in regular shops”! Figure 4. Why do (online) sellers buy secondhand? 25% 40% 35% cheaper more exclusive more sustainable Of the 95 sellers that buy secondhand clothing, the majority (75 votes) claims to do this because “it is cheaper” than in the regular shops. Closely followed by 67 votes explaining that the garment pieces are more exclusive than the ones in regular shops, and seeing this as a reason to rather buy secondhand. The environment clearly loses again with only 47 out of 95 votes claiming to buy secondhand because it is better for the environment than to buy new clothing all the time.! ! Social communities?! When selling and buying on these online platforms, a lot of them seem to bring attention to the social aspect of a marketplace. Looking back at the quote in the beginning of this chapter, where Hermann and Soiffer point out that ‘socializing’ is a grand reason for Americans to participate in yard sales, this is completely logical. Because at yard sales you meet and talk to people about the products you sell, whereas online it is much more anonymous and 51 individualistic. Communities are formed on the marketplaces where you can follow the closets of people who’s style you like, online parties are thrown to shop ‘together’, live chatting and commenting on garments is all included. Is this indeed what most people want? Keeping the social aspect prominent when digitizing this secondhand market?! We’ve asked the participants of the survey if they would like to become part of an online fashion community within the platform when buying or selling on one.! The opinions are divided. A majority of 56% would like to be part of a community as described, while 39% says they rather stay anonymous or do not want to expand on yet another online social medium. A small 5% says not to be sure about it yet. ! ! More secondhand in the future?! As a last question the respondents were asked how they feel about the future, just as in the first survey. Will they buy more secondhand in the future, they think? ! A stunning 86% said “Yes” to buying more secondhand fashion in the future. The majority claims to be doing this because they will become more aware about the impacts of the fashion industry on the environment, however they do demand that there need to come more possibilities to do this.! Only 1 out of a 100 participants says not to care about sustainability at all. ! ! ! Survey Data Limitations! This survey had a total of 100 respondents. These are not enough people to be able to make statements about ‘the consumers’ in the Netherlands. Although the respondents in this survey have a more diverse residency location map, we cannot let the opinion of three fashionistas speak for the whole city of Rotterdam for instance.! 97% of the participants in this survey were female, 3% were male. And the average age was around 25 years old. This is both a result of the recruiting process for this survey which happened through Facebook marketplaces and United Wardrobe, and confirms most users being female (see appendices). This can also be of influence on the answers of the respondents. Since the participants were recruited via Facebook and United Wardrobe, the survey respondents mostly consists of the target group of those two places. While there are other seller target groups via other platforms that might have given us different answers.! The respondents were asked about where they sell and buy the most, but the answers were limited. There was room to express their own thoughts, however when a respondent is not reminded, certain platforms might unintentionally have been excluded.! 52 When questioning the respondents about their motivation to sell, and their motivation to buy, they had the opportunity to check multiple boxes and therefore have multiple answers. If they had the opportunity to check one box only, the answers might have been more significant.! ! ! Survey Data Conclusion! Marktplaats and Facebook are the most used platforms for selling used clothing.! Tidying up the house is for 75% of the online sellers the motivation to sell their own clothing. 66% says it is also for financial reasons. Only 30% does it out of environmental awareness. 18% does it as a hobby.! Most of the online sellers also buy secondhand online. Marktplaats and Facebook are again the most used platforms for this. ! 75% says to buy secondhand because it is cheaper than buying regular clothing. 67% says to buy also because the items are more exclusive than shopping at regular shops. Only 47% says to buy secondhand because it is better for the environment to buy used clothing than to buy new clothing.! The idea of being part of a fashion community to share styles, follow others and communicate digitally is appreciated, but not for the majority. ! 86% agrees that they will purchase more and more secondhand clothing in the future with sustainability in mind, provided that there will be more possibilities and online platforms to do this.! ! 5.2.2 Survey Data - Offline sellers! An offline survey was conducted with a total of 50 respondents at the IJhallen in Amsterdam, who were selling their own clothing for cash.! ! ! Results & Discussion! Who are the respondents?! The group of 50 respondents is randomly picked at the IJhallen market in Amsterdam, edition on the 1st of March 2015. Of this group, 90% was female and 5% male. Their age differs between 14 and 54 years old. The average age is 28. Regarding their residency, 34% lives in Amsterdam, the rest of the 66% is divided over 26 different cities across the Netherlands. The majority (70%) spends <100 euros a month on clothing. ! 53 76% answered to be selling their clothing only 0-1 times a year at the IJhallen. This means the majority is not a frequent IJhallen seller. But the majority (76%) also claims to sell their clothing more often than that in a year. Only 2% do this weekly. A greater part (51%) does this 0-4 times a year.! ! Why are they selling? ! The motivation of selling their own clothing at a fair such as the IJhallen, was mostly about cleaning up their houses. The participants had to choose one of the coming answers - in contrast with the previous survey, they now had to choose one answer that was most suitable:! “Financial reasons: I could use the cash”! “Cleaning up: I needed to make space in my closet”! “Environmentally aware: I believe people should reuse as much as possible”! “Hobby: I like to share my fashion style with others”! “Other”; they could add another reason themselves.! Figure 5. Stimulants of offline sellers Votes out of 50 offline sellers 70 64 52.5 35 17.5 16 10 0 Cleaning up Financial Environment 10 Hobby ! Comparing Figure 5 with Figure 3 (Stimulants of online sellers) it clarifies that when we let the participants choose only one statement that suits their stimulants the most, cleaning up overrules the financial drive. This is an interesting outcome since we can conclude that for 54 instance donating to charity is a serious possibility since only a minority cares about the money that is earned from these items. Although the offline sellers might be a different crowd than the online sellers; this could encourage further research. ! Offline sellers also selling online?! When asking the participants whether they sell their own clothing more frequently, 76% answer Yes. Of all offline sellers, the majority (60%) do this online. 26% do this on other markets, 8% do this at swapping event and only 2% do this at a brick and mortar secondhand store. ! Remarkable is that 78% claim to sell their clothing on Marktplaats, and 22% do this on Facebook. Only 6% use eBay or United Wardrobe. This is another confirmation that Marktplaats (and Facebook) are the most frequently used online platforms for people to sell their own clothing. ! ! Motivation not to sell online! When asking the 13 participants that do not sell clothing on the internet, why they don’t do this, 10 out of 13 state they find it too much of a hassle and it takes up too much of their time. The others say they are not comfortable with having people at your house, which is often the case when selling products through Marktplaats or Facebook. Luckily, the current online fashion resale platforms have solutions for these issues. We could conclude that this is an awareness problem, since these participants are probably not familiar with the new online platforms and its beneficials.! ! Offline sellers buying secondhand! The survey data shows that 88% of the offline sellers frequently buy secondhand clothing themselves. The majority (36%) claim to buy only 0-5 items a year, while 18% do this more often, and buy around 10-20 items a year.! Most of the participants (64%) do this on markets such as the IJhallen. But 52% also do this on the internet. Another 46% buys secondhand in a brick and mortar store.! ! Buying on the internet! So a little more than half of the offline sellers buy used fashion online. The majority (44%) of the participants do this on Marktplaats. Only 18% do this on Facebook, next to 12% that do this on eBay and a 8% that buy on United Wardrobe. All other mentioned online platforms are apparently not being used by the respondents.! 55 ! Motivation to buy secondhand! Figure 6. Why do the (offline) sellers buy secondhand? 14% 49% 37% cheaper more exclusive more sustainable Figure 6 shows that also the offline sellers agree that the stimulant to buy secondhand is mostly the economical aspect. This shows the importance of the association of secondhand clothing and low prices. Only a small minority does this because it is good for the environment and the industry to reuse clothing. ! ! Online versus Offline ! 80% of the participants prefer to purchase secondhand fashion in physical stores or markets where they can see and feel the fabric, and try an item on if they want to. Only 16% prefer to buy secondhand online. This for the reasons that there is a more structural overview, you can do it whenever and wherever you want and the most important one: you have access to even more exclusive items from foreign countries.! ! ! Survey Data Limitations! This survey was done with 50 respondents. This is a relatively small amount of respondents to be able to make statements about ‘the consumer’, therefore caution is advised in the interpretation of the results. However, it is the opinions of 50 people that frequently sell their own clothing and have experience with this, and therefore have a personal view on the subject. It would be interesting to see if the results can be replicated with a bigger survey research.! 56 The respondents were recruited at the IJhallen market in Amsterdam. This has a certain price segment based on the audience that is expecting to buy a lot for very low prices. This means the group of respondents that chose to sell there, may not be in the same price segment as high end platforms such as The Next Closet or Designer Vintage, but more in the price segment of United Wardrobe and Marktplaats. ! This also means that the motivation to sell and buy secondhand of the questioned respondents might from for instance the target audience of the high end platforms. ! ! ! Survey Data Conclusion! The offline sellers agree with the online sellers that cleaning out their closet is the main reason to sell their own clothing. There seems to be more fun in selling your own products offline than online, which is why 70% prefer to sell at an offline happening instead of online. The group of offline sellers that do not sell online at all, states that this is because it takes up too much time and is seen as a hassle. Although the results in general show that many of the respondents still need to be informed about the possibilities of the existing online platforms nowadays. ! The majority of the offline sellers also frequently buy secondhand themselves, 42% do this because it is cheaper than new items, 32% do this because the items are more unique and 12% do this consciously for sustainability reasons. 80% of the respondents prefer to buy secondhand at a physical store or market over online. ! 46% buys secondhand in a brick and mortar secondhand store, while we just saw that only 2% sells their items to a secondhand store. Is this because secondhand stores seem to have a strict selection policy? Or take too much commission?! ! 5.3 Conclusion! The main reason for people to participate in this movement as a seller seems to be that it is simply an easy way to give your products a meaningful second life, when they are not being used to the fullest. People acknowledge the fact that they have too much (unused) clothing in their closets. They want to clean up once in a while, to make room for the new things to come. ! After that, there are two drivers to sell. One is coming from a business perspective: to make some money off of your former purchases, the other one is coming from an emotional perspective: to make sure the product gets it’s value and admiration it deserves, or to make other people happy. Which in the end will generate a feeling of happiness or reassurance for the person itself. 57 Only a small part of the participants claim to have the environment in mind when selling their clothing. After a realization and a will to clean out their closets, this group tries to think of the most environmental friendly way to dispose of their clothing, and reusing by somebody else seems the best option. Some admit it is an attempt to make up for the large amount of fashion products they consume, since the time span of the usage of a fashion item is so short nowadays, it is almost the same idea as a clothing library. Instead of borrowing the clothing with an institution the garments are being bought by themselves and given to another owner by themselves.! ! The main reason for people to participate in this movement as a buyer is that the items are cheaper than the new items regularly cost in stores. This goes for an H&M t-shirt on United Wardobe as well as for a Louis Vuitton bag on The Next Closet. It also makes it possible for a target group from a lower price segment to shop the products of a higher price segment, but for lower costs. This often also means products of a better quality are available for a lower price.! Another reason to buy secondhand over new clothing is its level of exclusivity. New collections usually have a large quantity of items per style, while a collection of a secondhand shop often only has one item per style (which makes them ‘one of a kind’).! Participants that prefer buying secondhand online over offline, explained this with the advantages of regular online shopping: doing it in your own time, at your own moments. ! Another position to this is that as a consumer there is a wider range of exclusive products accessible for you online.! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! 58 ! ! ! ! ! ! CH 6! ! The opportunities in the Netherlands ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! 59 ! ! Chapter 6. The opportunities in the Netherlands! This chapter will map out the opportunities for this market in the Netherlands the coming years. It will analyze the pros and cons of the existing business models and identify the consumers needs and thoughts from the conducted surveys. ! ! 6.1 Analyzing existing business models! The market of online fashion resale platforms is not fully established yet in the Netherlands, but definitely growing. There are a few start ups from the last years that are growing in users - and opportunities - existentially. It is an upcoming market, according to the interviewed fashion professionals. Looking at bigger foreign markets around us, large platforms such as ‘Vestiaire Collective’ in Europe with 1.5 million users or ‘The Real Real’ in the Unites States with 3 million users and $100 million in revenue23 are examples that this market is a worthy business opportunity. ! All interviewed professionals - including fashion journalist Bregje Lampe - agree that there are big opportunities for this market to grow. It is showing that there is a demand for possibilities from people to get rid of their clothing, in a fun and valuable way. People think more sustainable nowadays and would love to give a purchased item a second life. According to Bregje Lampe the success of the general online fashion market will also apply on this online resale market. The future is digital: as long as the online resale platforms are keeping up with the online webshops, they will grow together. ! ! But HOW can this become a prevailing trend?! The premium service of The Next Closet, or the Vintywomen (DE) bag service - where your goods are picked up at your house by the company - seems to be the best and most popular way. The truth is that the consumer is ‘lazy’ and never has time. The service needs to be as easy and minimal in time consuming as possible. The ultimate service for consumers would be that the items are picked up by their house, the company will do the rest, and that they receive as much profit of the sold items as possible. The items of which the professionals declare not worthy of resale, would be donated to a charity (again done by the company) so that the customer can uplift their karma, but does not have to go through any trouble.! 23 Forbes, 2014 60 Photography should be done by the company in their studio, to have one recurring style to make it easier for the buyers.! Monetary transactions should be done by the company. Transaction models where the consumers arrange it themselves, with Marktplaats for instance, is not popular anymore. There is a trust issue. The company needs to take responsibility and position themselves as a confidant between consumers. ! ! For the buyers, an important factor is the structure of the website. It needs to resemble a regular online webshop, with search engines and algorithms that focus on the ‘ease of use’ for a consumer. The algorithm model of United Wardrobe for instance seems to adjust the view of the webpage to you personally according to your search history, your likes and your sizes. This is a smart way of enhancing easiness for the user, and makes it feel more personal.! ! 6.2 What does the consumer say about opportunities - Survey results! The majority of the participants predict to be buying more and more secondhand in the future. This foresees a growth within the secondhand market in general. Comparing survey results, one may conclude that the younger generation is nowadays used to doing everything online, while the older generation prefers physical stores over online stores. In twenty years, this will have shifted and the younger generation will be the older generation, completely ready to buy (secondhand) online.! The participants do ask for more possibilities to buy used fashion online. It needs to become accessible and easy to find, and grow in popularity. This can be seen as a literal request to companies in this sector by the respondents. ! When asking the participants about the future, many mention that the online webshop should be fully integrated with a postal company, this way as a buyer you can go and get your package at a Kiala point whenever you weren't home during delivery. If the sending costs are for the buyer, these are normally very high. The company should pay a percentage or have a deal with a postal company in order to reduce these costs for their customers.! Nowadays, consumers spend a big part of their free time (on the road) on their smartphones more than on laptops or computers. This is why many respondents also noted that the online platforms should all have apps you can shop on or sell with.! A remarkable fact is that 52% of the sellers at the IJhallen frequently sells their clothing online. While from the respondents of the first survey, that do not necessarily have experience selling 61 their clothing, only 26% sold their clothing online. This means an awareness campaign towards non-sellers - the people that have no experience or knowledge on this subject - could be very effective, since two-third claims to be open to it. Another important campaign would be to educate the offline sellers, at a place such as the IJhallen, about the possibilities of the online fashion resale market.! ! 6.3 SWOT Analysis of online fashion resale! To create an overview we have concluded our findings into a SWOT-analysis.! ! Figure 7.! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! 62 Strengths Weaknesses • It is a sustainable concept: small ecological footprint! • It plays into people their emotions: consumers want their unused clothing to have a second life! • Consumers can earn money with it! • Consumers are cleaning up: they have too many things • It still stimulates a certain need for consumption and buying! • Sometimes the products are used too much: You cannot sell 100% of the supply! • Customers have to hand in a part of their proceeds! • It requires time from a consumer Opportunities Threats • A sustainable company has potential in the future: consumers are interested in ‘green’ companies! • Online fashion shopping is growing extensively! • The using period of a garment is becoming shorter and shorter • Little name recognition! • High chance of dissatisfaction on product condition! • Slow fashion: people will focus on quality and durable clothing! 6.4 Estimated Market Potential! Please note this is a rough estimation of a potential market in the Netherlands. The figures of the market potential are hopes and possibilities, not facts. ! When estimating the potential market for online fashion resale, we start by narrowing down our group. We are using the most recently published data on the subject from CBS, which is from 2013.! ! ! ! ! ! Fig 8.! The Netherlands had a rough 16.8 million residents on January 2014. ! 16.8 million 10.3 million 10.3 million of them shop online.! 60% of them frequently shop online, which equals 6.18 million people.! 6.2 million 69% of those 6.18 million people shopped for clothing online. ! These are 4,264,200 people.! So around 4 million people of the Netherlands frequently buy ! 4.3 million 3.8 million clothing online.! When looking at my first survey, with a group of random participants, 11% of them said ‘No’ to secondhand clothing. They claimed to prefer new clothing so much, that they are not interested in purchasing used fashion. Theoretically speaking, this would be a group of 469,062 people - of the 4.26 million people that buy clothing online, who would not be interested in purchasing secondhand clothing online.! 4,264,200 minus these 469,062 people, creates a group of 3,795,138 people - roughly 3.8 million people - that could be a potential market for online fashion resale in the Netherlands.! ! 6.5 Future threats and recommendations! The consumer is ‘lazy’ by nature. The services need to be as easy and accessible as possible, otherwise a consumer might lose interest and find it too time-consuming to participate. This counts for sellers and for buyers: the buyers need an organized webshop with a magnificent search engine and algorithm for them to enjoy this form of shopping, the seller needs an easy service when it comes to transport, photography and monetary transactions.! However, pick up service for secondhand cheap fast fashion items is almost not profitable, since the value of a secondhand Zara t-shirt is not more than 5 euros, while a normal pick up service costs about 6 euros per item. This could be solved by recommending a certain value of goods before sending, either one designer piece or multiple fast fashion pieces. This can be done for instance by sending a bag to the customer and recommend to go through their closet and send a load all at once. ! 63 A suggestion in order to keep the entire business sustainable is to also focus on ‘green’ transport services. It is important with a business like this where goods are transported from one place to another all the time, to make sure this also happens in a sustainable way.! The image of secondhand clothing can still use a little adjustments. A substantial part of the average consumers still see secondhand clothing as dusty old clothing, while this is almost never the case anymore. Selections of styles should be made based on the thoughts and requirements of the different target groups, just as with regular online webshops.! Awareness about reusing clothing as a sustainable initiative is also lacking. People need to be motivated to give their unused garments a second life and have to feel mentally rewarded afterwards in order to believe this. ! ! 6.6 Conclusion! According to the data collected by interviews and surveys, we can conclude that there are certainly chances for this market to grow in the Netherlands. There is a growing interest in sustainable initiatives and giving garments a second - third, maybe even fourth - life is a wonderful example of one. Since the recession there is a growing interest in secondhand businesses, from a buyer ánd from a sellers perspective. Foreign success portrays the opportunities of this market may have in the future, with millions of users (Vestiaire Collective, FR) and millions of dollars in revenue (The Real Real, USA).! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! 64 ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! CH 7! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! 65 Conclusion & Recommendations Chapter 7. Conclusion & Recommendations! Combining the experiences of the current business owners within this market and the requirements of the ‘critical consumer’ gained from the empirical data, this chapter is an overview of tips and opportunities for future - and recent - online secondhand fashion businesses, C2C or C2B2C. ! It will give an answer to the main research question of this thesis:! How can online fashion resale become a prevailing trend in the fashion industry of the Netherlands?! ! 7.1 Research Conclusions ! This paragraph will conclude the research that is done by answering the sub questions and examining the hypotheses.! ! 1. What is the current situation of the online consumer to consumer clothing market in the Netherlands?! Stated hypothesis: There is only a small group of fashion influencers and followers that are up to date on the current secondhand market online. ! ! The current situation is that the resale of a consumers own garment is becoming more and more accepted. The survey data conducted for this thesis concludes that out of 203 respondents already 65% frequently sell their own clothing online24. More than 72% (out of 145 respondents) also regularly purchase secondhand fashion online. Although it is only still in its infancy, multiple online resale platforms arose in the past three years and established a prominently emerging market. The numbers show that it is becoming a worthy business opportunity: anno February 2015, United Wardrobe counts over 55.000 users, The Next Closet has over 13.000 monthly visitors on their website and Designer-Vintage roughly over 50.000 monthly visitors. And this is only in the Netherlands. French platform Vestiaire Collective has over 1.5 million users. American platform The Real Real had a 55 million dollar revenue in 2013. These are examples of growth within this market.! ! 24 Possible bias in the interviewees profiles: see 1.4 for research limitations. 66 Nevertheless, the survey data also shows that awareness on the current possibilities of online fashion resale should rise in the Netherlands. Most respondents only knew Marktplaats as a fashion resale platform. In the Recommendations paragraph we will provide a few examples on how this could be done. ! The hypothesis of only a small group of fashion influencers being up to date on the current secondhand fashion market online is partially wrong, partially right. A big group of Dutch consumers already buy and sell used fashion on platforms such as Marktplaats. Only a small group, mostly a younger audience that is comfortable with online shopping, knows about the current possibilities of the specialized market places in fashion resale. But, this group is growing by the minute. ! ! 2. What is driving people to participate in this movement? ! Stated hypothesis: We would want people to buy and sell secondhand from an environmental perspective, unfortunately this is probably only driven by a financial stimulus.! ! The motivation of the sellers is mostly the urge to give a former purchase a second life and cleaning up their living space. They see the garments as an emotional and financial waste, while they take up space in their closets. Financial benefits of of this are welcome, but not a requirement. Although this differs per market segment: the higher the price segment, the more important the financial aspect is to the seller. For instance, when a consumer owns a 5000 dollar Chanel bag, a profit from the sale is often demanded. But overall, it is more important to them to get rid of unused items and make room for the new things to come. ! The motivation of secondhand buyers is mostly about finding unique items or quality items for a lower price. They seem to be excited about the expansion of the offer when switching to online, making it possible to purchase exclusive items from foreign places.! ! The environment seems to not be a stimulus for many. Only 24% out of 150 respondents stated that they sell their clothing from a sustainable perspective; which could (and should) be enhanced by education and awareness. In Recommendations we give a few examples on how this could be done.! The hypothesis was again partially correct and partially incorrect, in the sense that it people are not buying and selling secondhand solely from an environmental perspective yet, but the ‘cleaning up’ aspect seems to be important also.! 67 Next to that, many say the economical crisis was a driver for this movement, and made it a success. The recession has had a big influence in peoples buying behavior the past years and created a demand for lower priced, high quality garments. Aside from the regular retailers, people searched for other ways to obtain new garments, and started looking at what was already there such as, swapping and altering but mostly resale became popular. ! As a result the question rises: if the recession disappears and people’s financial status become stable again, will this movement disappear with it?! With this we arrive at our third subquestion:! ! 3. What are the chances for this movement to grow in the fashion industry of the Netherlands?! Stated hypothesis: There is an interest towards new sustainable fashion companies and consumers are willing to participate, as long as the participatory process is user friendly done.! ! The conducted research shows that there is indeed a growing interest towards sustainable fashion companies, which includes the reusing of clothing. Nevertheless, sustainability does not seem to be the main attraction for people to get involved in garment resale, as pointed out in the last paragraph. The recession has been a big motivation for people to find ways to spend less and earn a little extra, which resulted in a huge demand for secondhand clothing.! Now, one can wonder if this demand will decrease again when the recession blows over. ! It is always hard to look into the future, but we can assure that there is not only an economical crisis going on, but also a serious climate crisis, which will definitely not blow over unless critical measures are taken. The environment is gaining attention from consumers ánd businesses, and just as the recycling of plastic has now become an orderly fashion for us as consumers, hopefully the recycling of textiles will as well. ! Since it is an absolute necessity for our future on this planet to have a focus on durability and sustainability from now on, it is a smart move to anticipate on this and make it a main factor for a fashion businesses in the future.! ! Data of the OIS of Amsterdam shows that the amount of secondhand clothing stores in our capital city has been increasing since 2010 until now, which already proves there is a growing market for secondhand fashion. Our empirical data strongly confirms this, with a 75% out of 203 respondents stating that they will be buying more secondhand in the future. Mostly, because 68 they believe everyone is becoming more and more aware of the impact of the fashion industry and will focus more on sustainable alternatives in the future.! This alone proves a great chance for this movement to grow.! ! Another chance to grow would be that the majority of the respondents use Marktplaats as the online platform to sell their clothing (76% out of 131 online sellers). This gets confirmed by Marktplaats’ own data: it counted as many as 11.3 million ads for Women’s Clothing in 2012. ! But, as our research concludes, most of these consumers do not find it an ideal place to do business on25. This shows there is a need for a structured, organized marketplace online that focuses on fashion only. All those users of the 11.3 million postings could be introduced to a better, more effective platform.! Looking at the success of the foreign online secondhand market, we can conclude another chance for this market. As mentioned in question 1, French platform Vestiaire Collective counts millions of users and United States based platforms such as Vaunte and The Real Real are building up revenues of millions of dollars. ! ! This hypothesis was correct. Out of the gained empirical data and confirmed by our theoretical data, we can conclude that there are indeed chances for this movement to grow. The consumer experience should be as easy as possible, for buyers and for sellers. There is certainly a growing interest towards sustainable fashion companies and consumers are definitely willing to participate in this movement.! ! 7.2 Discussion & Recommendations! The following conclusions include recommendations towards current secondhand business owners and/or online start ups for the resale of fashion. It is also discussing some of the threats and possible solutions. But mostly it tries to answer the question: HOW can online fashion resale become a prevailing trend in the fashion industry of the Netherlands?! ! ! ! 25 Explanations of the respondents were: no insurances on monetary transactions; you have to trust the seller/buyer; difficult to search for specific items; filled with advertisements of web stores or other unrelated offers; images of the product are often not clear or the product does not match the photos; when buying designer clothing, there is no insurance or authenticity check; contact between buyer and seller is required, this can get very frustrating when discussing the price for instance, or sometimes people just don’t show up: also no insurances. ! 69 ! Offline versus Online! As said in the previous paragraph, the market for physical secondhand clothing stores in Amsterdam has been expanding over the past years in the Netherlands.! Since this statement only includes physical stores, we have asked the respondents if they would prefer buying and selling online or offline. A majority answered to prefer buying secondhand offline, because of the experience that comes with it and the possibility to fit and feel a garment. One could see this as a threat for the succes of the online market. However, this could be ! solved by putting the focus on having a highly modern resale webshop with a strong shopping experience, good quality photos and videos of the product, and an easy and friendly return service. ! When asking the respondents about their preference on selling online, as opposed to offline at markets or secondhand stores, the opinions were divided. Almost 50/50 of the 103, which means there is still a 50% that perhaps could be convinced into online selling. If everyone would be informed about the benefits of online selling, it might attract more customers.! ! ! Awareness on current online possibilities! Awareness should be raised about the current online possibilities of fashion resale. Out of the survey data we can conclude that the majority still sees Marktplaats as the only option to resell clothing online. They are not aware of the fashion platforms that are active nowadays. ! A company such as United Wardrobe would for instance greatly benefit from awareness campaigns on the IJhallen. When asking the respondents in what way reselling their clothing could become easier and more fun, most of their suggestions were features that already exist on the platforms. They just aren’t aware yet. If United Wardrobe would for instance give out their promotional tote bags to all fashion sellers on the IJhallen every edition for a year, and tell them about United Wardrobe’s possibilities, they would gain an immense amount of new customers. ! ! Awareness campaigns could also come from the government for example. Urging people not to throw away their old clothing, but to donate, swap or even resell. Making their people aware of the huge amount of textile waste an average Dutch household produces and the negative impact of this on the environment. The city council could for instance support an online platform where people swap instead of sell, underlining the importance to give a garment a second life. Political parties such as GroenLinks could give attention to the reusing of garments. This party 70 already engage themselves in renewable energy, recycling and food wastage. Textile waste can naturally be adopted in their standpoints and campaign plans.! ! ! Focus on sustainability! The link between sustainability and this resale movement should also be enhanced. Sustainability will gain awareness in the coming years, and seeing that reusing clothing is also a sustainable initiative, we should make use of this. ! The main driver of sellers seems to be cleaning up their closets and earning a little of of it, not per se because it is good for the environment. This is okay, the platform should just respond to this (keep advertising with those two factors) and at the same time reward someone after a transaction on a sustainable level, to keep raising awareness and encourage sustainability in peoples mind. American online sustainable webshop The Reformation for instance sends out a weekly newsletter with new items, and integrates a little sustainable note in there (Fig 6). This is just an example on how to keep the link with sustainability, but not in an imposing way.! ! 71 It would be a wise step to combine a platform like this with other sustainable initiatives, perhaps a lease system, or an alteration service. Another step would be to take the digital community to a real life gathering: organizing events and workshops to learn about DIY and altering old garments, to raise awareness about sustainability and how easily one can make a difference.! ! This can also be done by local governments, non profit organizations or even organizations such as Circle Economy. The Circle economy is a cooperative of companies, universities and governments that pursue a sustainable economy. And there are many more companies like this. Think about campaigns to encourage the reuse of clothing, or events where people swap garments and learn about the current textile industry. Organizing discussions between retailers, about their responsibility of the products they send into the world, and brainstorming together. ! This could all be a form of enhancing the awareness on sustainability, from a non-sales perspective, which is also important.! ! ! As easy as possible! When thinking about the perfect online fashion resale platform, certain findings should be taken into account. ! The service for sellers should be as easy and accessible as possible: Product pick up service by the company is the most popular method, according to our respondents, preferably letting the company evaluate and photograph the items in a professional manner and the items that are not worthy for resale would be donated to a charity. This is also done by the company.! The service for buyers also needs to be as easy as possible: Sending costs need to be paid by the company, or at least partially. Return services need to be on point, free and quick. The website should be personalized by size and style. ! The platform needs to have a large network of sellers and (mostly) buyers and form a community together, based on people’s sizes and styles. Several online resale platforms should think about fusing into one large platform, with an ultimate search engine and algorithm that makes it easy and organized for all visitors.! ! ! Retailer’s responsibility! This market can also be a business opportunity for an existing retailer: for instance if a store such as COS would have it’s own online webshop for secondhand COS items, the responsibility is at the company that produced the clothing in the first place, which would encourage the 72 second life of the product they made in the first place. This can be a way of getting rid of your dead stock as a retailer, but is also a new form of customer retention. For instance, how bol.com now has an addition to its website with a books marketplace, or asos with asos marketplace, would be able to become a standard extra platform for all online webshops.! ! ! Niche markets! As a last recommendation it is important to include the strength of niche markets. The big players - United Wardrobe, The Next Closet, Designer Vintage - are already there, all three targeting the segments of the market: Low, Mid, and High. In order to be successful in the same branche, it is recommended to have your focus on a niche market, otherwise the competition is too big. Especially occasional clothing - such as wedding dresses, maternity clothing etc. would work well in this market, since the products are only worn once or a certain period of time, and is then perfectly suitable for reuse by someone else.! ! More recommendations can be found in the appendices, where respondents answer the question: “What could make the online resale of your own clothing easier and more fun, according to you?”.! ! 7.3 Research Limitations! This research was done on a qualitative and quantitative level. This could be improved in many ways. The qualitative research had a total of 200 respondents. These are the opinions of a relatively small group. A research done with e.g. 5000 respondents would give a more accurate image of the current consumer.! Questions and answers in the survey (filled in by respondents) are colored by the knowledge of the survey creator; me. If I would have more time to dive into the subject even more, or if a company with years of experience in this field would set up the survey, the questions would be based on more knowledge and experience with the subject and therefore even more useful. For instance in the first survey, the respondent could choose between a number of platforms - the ones that I knew - but during the research I got acquainted with other platforms that were not included in the survey questions. This could have caused a limitation in the answers.! ! A recommendation for future research on this same subject would be to have even more indepth interviews with professionals of the online c2c fashion market. There is not much data to 73 find about the c2c e-commerce players in fashion. This could be a very interesting follow-up study, what is the annual revenue of these places, who are their users, what are the best sold products etcetera. The more opinions and experiences, the more reliable the results can be. This is also a recommendation for the quantitative research, as: the more respondents, the more reliable the survey results are and the more outcome the research can have.! Foreign business models such as Vestiaire Collective (FR) have not been researched, although since it’s a smashing success in Europe this could be a very interesting company to look into. What are their success factors? What can we learn from them? This would be a recommendation for further research. ! It can also be interesting to include a research more into the future possibilities of technology. What is going to be the digital store surface in the future? What can we interpret in the recommendations for a fashion industry 10 years from now? 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[Online] available at: http://www.google.nl/url? sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=3&ved=0CC4QFjAC&url=http%3A%2F %2Frepub.eur.nl%2Fpub %2F50553%2FMetis_195106.pdf&ei=s-8TVczpNoO3UavjgKgI&usg=AFQjCNE8rwerzTM4yu_S Kc-kVO9dGlxuPQ&sig2=qOkL64GkkjC1gz48rt66Eg&bvm=bv.89217033,d.d24 [Accessed 20 Dec. 2014].! ! 82 NCDO (2014) “One World - Jeans zijn waterblauw” [Online] available at: http://www.oneworld.nl/ sites/oneworld.nl/files/factsheet_water_footprint_fashion_jeans_zijn_waterblauw.pdf [Accessed Mar. 26 2015].! ! NCDO (2014b) “Nederlanders & Water - Nederlanders over Kraanwater, waterverbruik en wateroverlast” - “Duurzaam gedrag en kleding”. [Online] available at: http://issuu.com/ismagazine/docs/nederlanders_en_water/29?e=2006164/10535355 [Accessed Dec. 8 2014].! ! NRC (2012), Milou van Rossum, “Goedkope mode bestaat niet” [Online] available at: http:// www.nrc.nl/mode/2012/12/14/naar-een-groenere-mode-doorbreek-de-cirkel-van-kopen-kopenkopen/ [Accessed Mar. 26 2015]! ! 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(2005) Global Problems and the Culture of Capitalism. Needham Heights, MA: Allyn & Bacon, 1999.! ! 83 Sanne, C. (2002), "Willing consumers - or locked in? Policies for sustainable consumption".! Ecological Economics, 42, 273-287. [Online] available at: http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/ article/pii/S0921800902000861# [Accessed Dec. 1 2014].! ! Secondary Materials and Recycled Items Report (2012), “Textile Recycling Fact Sheet” [Online] available at: http://www.smartasn.org/textilerecycle/facts.pdf [Accessed Dec. 10 2014].! ! Sherry, J.F. Jr (1990), “A Sociocultural analysis of a midwestern American flea market”, Journal of Consumer Research, Vol. 17 No. 1, pp. 13‐30. [Online] available at: http://www3.nd.edu/ ~jsherry/pdf/1990/A%20Sociocultural%20Analysis%20of%20a%20Midwestern%20American %20Flea%20Market.pdf [Accessed Jan. 14 2014].! ! 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[Online] available at: https://www.thuiswinkel.org/ feiten-en-cijfers/14/Groei-online-winkelen [Accessed Jan. 09 2015].! ! 84 Turconi, S. & Sull, D. (2008). “Fast Fashion Lessons” [Online] available at: http://rps.hva.nl: 2869/ehost/pdfviewer/pdfviewer?sid=f2019e0f-8db3-4cea-9562f63a90ee8d23%40sessionmgr112&vid=1&hid=125 [Accessed Dec. 8 2014]! ! Tweedehandskledingwinkels (2014) “Winkel overzicht Amsterdam” [Online] available at: http:// tweedehandskledingwinkels.nl/toon_winkels.aspx?winkelplaats=Amsterdam [Accessed Dec. 18 2014].! ! Volkskrant, de (2013) Bregje Lampe “Buitenkans: gebruikt” [Online] available at: https:// thenextcloset.com/system/cms/files/files/000/000/015/original/Volkskrant2013.pdf [Accessed Mar. 26 2015].! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! 85 ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! Appendices! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! 86 Surveys.! ! Questions Survey 1:! ! Wat is uw geslacht? *! m/v d! Wat is uw leeftijd? *! ! Waar woont u? *! ! Hoeveel geeft u per maand gemiddeld uit aan kleding (grofweg)? *! Tussen 0 en 50 euro! Tussen 50 en 100 euro! Tussen 100 en 200 euro! Tussen 200 en 500 euro! 500 euro of meer! ! Heeft u het afgelopen jaar wel eens tweedehands kleding gekocht? *! nee, nooit! ja, 0 - 5 kledingstukken (incl schoenen & accessoires)! ja, 5 - 10 kledingstukken (incl schoenen & accessoires)! ja, 10 - 20 kledingstukken (incl schoenen & accessoires)! ja, meer dan 20 kledingstukken (incl schoenen & accessoires)! ! Zo ja, waar heeft u dit gedaan?! Bij een tweedehandswinkel! Op markten (IJhallen bijvoorbeeld)! Op closet sales! Via internet! Other:! ! Zo nee, waarom niet?! Ik koop liever nieuwe kleding, ik hou niet zo van het dragen van tweedehands kleding! 87 Je moet altijd zo zoeken naar iets wat mooi is en jou goed past! Ik denk er simpelweg niet echt aan, er wordt niet veel voor geadverteerd! Het is vaak niet meer 'trendy', niet meer 'in de mode' naar mijn standaarden! Other: ! ! Wat voor online platformen kent u om tweedehands kleding op aan te schaffen? *! Marktplaats! eBay! Asos Marketplace! Facebook of andere social media kanalen! United Wardrobe! Poppintags! Geen van bovenstaande! Other:! ! Via welke online kanalen heeft u ook wel eens iets aangeschaft (een kledingstuk, schoenen of accessoires)?! Marktplaats! eBay! Asos Marketplace! Facebook of andere social media kanalen! United Wardrobe! Poppintags! Geen van bovenstaande! Other:! ! Heeft u het afgelopen jaar wel eens uw eigen kledingstukken verkocht? *! nee, nooit! ja, 0 - 5 kledingstukken (incl schoenen & accessoires)! ja, 5 - 10 kledingstukken (incl schoenen & accessoires)! ja, 10 - 20 kledingstukken (incl schoenen & accessoires)! ja, meer dan 20 kledingstukken (incl schoenen & accessoires)! ! 88 Zo ja, waar heeft u dit gedaan?! Bij een tweedehandswinkel! Op markten (IJhallen bijvoorbeeld)! Op closet sales! Via internet! Other:! ! Indien u dit via internet deed, via wat voor kanalen of websites was dit?! Marktplaats! eBay! Asos Marketplace! Facebook of andere social media kanalen! United Wardrobe! Poppintags! Other:! ! Zo nee, zou u er interesse in hebben om de kleding die u niet meer draagt te verkopen?! Ja! Nee! Other:! ! Denkt u dat u in de toekomst steeds vaker tweedehands kleding zult gaan kopen? *! Ja, we worden allemaal bewuster van de impact van de kledingindustrie wereldwijd en zullen ons meer gaan focussen op duurzame alternatieven! Ja, als er meer mogelijkheden zijn om te kopen wel! Nee, ik geef niet zo veel om het hergebruiken van kleding in duurzame context! Nee, ik geef nog te veel om nieuwe kleding en dit zal zo blijven! ! Bij het aanschaffen van tweedehands kleding, zou u dan de voorkeur geven aan… *! online tweedehands kopen! offline tweedehands kopen (markten, tweedehandswinkels, etc)! Other:! ! 89 Bij het verkopen van uw eigen kleding, zou u dan de voorkeur geven aan… *! online uw kleding verkopen! offline uw kleding verkopen (markten, tweedehandswinkels, etc)! Other:! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! 90 Questions Survey 2: focussed on people selling and buying secondhand fashion online! ! Wat is je geslacht? *! m! v! ! Wat is je leeftijd? *! ! Waar woon je? *! ! Verkoop je wel eens kledingstukken online? *! Ja ! Nee! ! Zo ja, waar doe je dit?! United Wardrobe! Marktplaats! eBay! Poppintags! Facebook groepen! Other:! ! Indien je wel eens kleding verkoopt online, wat waren dan jouw redenen om te verkopen?! Financiële redenen: ik kon de opbrengst goed gebruiken! Milieuvriendelijkheid: ik vind dat men kleding zoveel mogelijk moet hergebruiken! Huis opruimen: ik had meer ruimte in mijn kledingkast nodig! Hobby: ik vind het leuk om mijn kledingstijl te delen met anderen! Other:! ! Koop je zelf ook wel eens tweedehands kleding? *! Ja, maar niet online! Ja, ook online! Nee! 91 ! Indien je wel eens online tweedehands kleding koopt, waar doe je dit dan?! United Wardrobe! Marktplaats! eBay! Poppintags! Facebook groepen! Other:! ! Wat is jouw motivatie om tweedehands kleding aan te schaffen?! Het is goedkoper dan in de reguliere winkels waar ik normaal shop! Het is exclusiever dan in de reguliere winkels waar ik normaal shop! Het is beter voor het milieu dan wanneer ik steeds nieuwe kledingstukken koop! Other:! ! Heb je de behoefte om via dit soort online platformen ook deel uit te maken van een fashion community; zodat je bepaalde personen kan volgen om kleding van te kopen en stijlen te delen, of inspiratie op te doen? *! Ja, dat lijkt me wel wat! Nee, ik blijf liever anoniem! Other:! ! Denk je dat je in de toekomst steeds vaker tweedehands zal gaan kopen?! Ja, we worden allemaal bewuster van de wereld om ons heen en zullen meer focussen op duurzaamheid! Ja, als er meer mogelijkheden om te kopen zijn wel! Nee, ik geef niet om duurzaamheid! Nee, ik geef nog te veel om nieuwe kleding, dit zal zo blijven! Other:! ! Wat zou het online verkopen van je eigen kleding nóg makkelijker of leuker kunnen maken volgens jou?! ! 92 Questions survey 3: focussed on people selling clothing at the IJhallen! ! Wat is je geslacht? *! m! v! ! Wat is je leeftijd? *! ! Waar woon je? *! ! Hoeveel geef je per maand gemiddeld uit aan kleding (grofweg)? *! Tussen 0 en 50 euro! Tussen 50 en 100 euro! Tussen 100 en 200 euro! Tussen 200 en 500 euro! 500 euro of meer! ! Hoe vaak sta jij gemiddeld per jaar op de IJhallen?! 0 - 1 keer! 2 - 4 keer! 5 - 9 keer! 10 - 12 keer! ! Wat is jouw motivatie om je kleding te verkopen?! Financiële redenen: ik kan de opbrengst goed gebruiken! Milieuvriendelijkheid: ik vind dat men kleding zoveel mogelijk moet hergebruiken! Huis opruimen: ik had meer ruimte in mijn kledingkast nodig! Hobby: ik vind het leuk om mijn kledingstijl te delen met anderen! Anders, namelijk:! ! Verkoop je naast de IJhallen wel eens vaker ergens je eigen kledingstukken? *! nee, nooit! ja, 0-1 keer per jaar! 93 ja, 2-4 keer per jaar! ja, 5-9 keer per jaar! ja, maandelijks! ja, wekelijks! ! Zo ja, waar doe je dit?! Closet sales! Kledingruilen! Markten! Via via! Op internet! Anders, namelijk:! ! Indien je wel eens je eigen kledingstukken via internet verkoopt, waar doe je dit dan?! Marktplaats! eBay! Speurders! Facebook groepen! United Wardrobe! The Next Closet! Vinty Women! De kast van amsterdam! Trash to Treasure! Designer Vintage! Poppintags! Anders, namelijk:! ! Indien je geen kledingstukken via het internet verkoopt; waarom niet?! Ik wist niet dat dat kon! Het is zoveel gedoe, zo tijdrovend! Ik verkoop liever face to face! Anders, namelijk: ! ! 94 Hoe zou het verkopen via internet volgens jou makkelijker (en leuker) gemaakt kunnen worden?! Of, indien je niet verkoopt online: hoe zou jij overgehaald kunnen worden om het wel te gaan doen?! ! Koop je zelf ook wel eens tweedehands kleding? *! nee, nooit! ja, 0 - 5 kledingstukken (incl schoenen & accessoires) per jaar! ja, 5 - 10 kledingstukken (incl schoenen & accessoires) per jaar! ja, 10 - 20 kledingstukken (incl schoenen & accessoires) per jaar! ja, meer dan 20 kledingstukken (incl schoenen & accessoires) per jaar! ! Zo ja, waar koop je dit dan vaak?! Bij een tweedehands winkel! Op markten (zoals de IJhallen)! Op closet sales! Via via! Op internet! Anders, namelijk: ! ! Indien je wel eens tweedehands kleding via internet koopt, waar doe je dit dan?! Marktplaats! eBay! Speurders! Facebook groepen! United Wardrobe! The Next Closet! VintyWomen! Trash to Treasure! Designer Vintage! Poppintags! Anders, namelijk:! ! 95 Wat is jouw motivatie om tweedehands kleding aan te schaffen?! Het is goedkoper dan in de reguliere winkels waar ik normaal shop! Het is exclusiever dan in de reguliere winkels waar ik normaal shop! Het is beter voor het milieu dan wanneer ik steeds nieuwe kledingstukken koop! Anders, namelijk:! ! ! Geef je de voorkeur aan het kopen van tweedehands offline (IJhallen, markten etc) of online?! Offline, omdat…! Online, omdat…! ! En bij het verkopen van je eigen kleding, waar geef je dan de voorkeur aan?! Offline, omdat…! Online, omdat…! ! Denk je dat je in de toekomst steeds vaker tweedehands zal gaan kopen?! Ja, we worden allemaal bewuster van de wereld om ons heen en zullen meer focussen op duurzaamheid! Ja, als er meer mogelijkheden om te kopen zijn wel! Nee, ik geef niet om duurzaamheid! Anders, namelijk:! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! 96 Interviews.! ! ! List of interviewees:! in-depth interviews - to be found on the next pages.! Lieke Pijpers, Founder & COO of ‘The Next Closet’! Thijs Verheul, Founder & PR manager of ‘United Wardrobe’! Sophie van Oirschot, Founder & CEO of ‘De Kast van Amsterdam’! Kim van der Knaap, Sales & Marketing manager of ‘Designer-Vintage’! Bregje Lampe, Fashion Editor for ‘de Volkskrant’ and ‘ELLE’! ! short telephone interviews - summary available upon request.! Rens Tap, Market development consultant at ‘Modint’! Prof. Jesse Weltevreden, Researcher and Lector online entrepreneurship at ‘HvA’! Pauline Wout, Master student at TU Delft & Graduate at ‘Circle Economy’! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! 97 Interview The Next Closet: Lieke Pijpers - Founder TNC! 23-02-2015! summary/important questions:! ! ! TNC opgericht in aug 2013. Tot en met aug 2013 was er alleen de premium service. In mei 2014 is dit uitgebreid naar de DIY service.! ! Waar kwam de inspiratie voor dit platform vandaan? ‘Waarom’ is het opgericht?! Vanuit duurzaamheid, om mensen aan te sporen tweedehands te kopen of hun garderobe een tweede leven te geven. Investeer in kwaliteit.! vanuit Amerika threadflip, verstiaire uit frankrijk, ! buitenland voorbeelden hoe het anders kan. duurzame angel heeft ons gemotiveerd.! wij geven zicht in mensen hun kasten.! Wij zijn eigenlijk een kruising tussen Net a Porter (overzichtelijk en makkelijk shoppen, exclusieve items) en ebay (community vibe).! ! Wie zijn jullie directe concurrenten in NL?! Marktplaats, offline boutiekjes, Designer Vintage platform.! United wardrobe is meer een andere doelgroep. Zij groeien wel enorm maar hebben ook een ander business model. De kans dat iets verkocht word op united wardrobe is veel kleiner. duurt bij ons ook wel weer langer om iets online te zetten dus we hebben ook minder.! wij zijn heel selectief over onze verkopers, united wardrobe niet.! UW’s leden zijn ook minder betrokken. wij hebben een hoog percentage returning customers. veel meer relatie building dan bij united wardrobe.! ! Wat onderscheidt jullie van andere platformen?! we hebben woe - zondag een offline winkel. wij focussen op tijdloze klassiekers, niet zo trendgevoelige items. wij zijn selectief in de verkopers. en de producten. wij hebben meer een magazine achtig editorial content. wij werken samen met Circle Economy; focus op duurzaamheid. ! ! Is er een verschil per land, kijkend naar deze online C2C fashion markt?! Designer kleding in Nederland in de kinderschoenen, mensen dragen wat minder designer, nl is een kleiner land, mensen vinden het leuk om zelf dingen te doen. geld verdienen en zelf doen groot, e commerce goed ontwikkeld, diy service in NL wel goed aanslaat. nl geven over het algemeen wat minder uitgeven in dit land. ! onze prijzen zijn bijvoorbeeld wat scherper dan bijv frankrijk. ! en nl is klein, je kan mensen veel service geven, vandaar dat we een store offline, men woont redelijk in de buurt, dus je kan makkelijk een combinatie zoeken tussen offline en online.! ! Waarom denk je dat het belangrijk is om een offline punt te houden?! zeker in het begin belangrijk is voor je naamsbekendheid en service. zeker met dure spullen, ook een gezicht ! opsturen toch liever niet, ze willen zeker weten dat het goed word afgeleverd! plus, je kunt ook dingen passen in een offline winkel. ! ! Leuk dat jullie drijfveer vanuit duurzaamheid komt.! We werken samen sympany (kici en humanitas) en dress for succes (in nl)! 98 alles wat wij niet verkopen of aannemen, kunnen mensen voor kiezen om hun spullen aan te doneren. zo proberen we altijd een oplossing te kiezen voor je gehele kast. je kan met je hele kast bij ons terecht, en wij nemen dan een stukje van je kast, en de rest doneren wij dan aan goede doelen die hiermee werken.! Echter denken we wel dat dit iets moet zijn wat in je bedrijfs DNA zit. Niet iets om mee te adverteren.! ! Hoeveel dagelijkse gebruikers heeft TNC?! 13.000 in de maand, dus ongeveer 433 per dag.! ! En hoeveel leden?! 2000 members, kopers en verkopers, groeit snel per maand! we keuren wel wie er verkoopt bij ons! ! Wie zijn jullie gebruikers?! voornamelijk vrouwen rond de 30 jaar, nog niet gericht op mannen. gaan we wel doen maar nu nog niet. animo blijft kleiner dan dat voor vrouwen maar zal wel groeien. de markt moet nog rijp worden. Zelfde voor de kinder markt. bewust gekozen om eerst te focussen op vrouwen. 100%. ! ! Zijn de kopers hetzelfde als de verkopers?! in theorie wel, maar in de praktijk niet echt. de verkopers kopen niet echt. die willen eerst geld verdienen. ! ! Verschil in leeftijd of type vrouw?! de DIY verkopers is ook een beetje het type koper. Vaak eind 20, begin 30.! maar de Premium mensen die kopen niet gauw bij ons. zij kopen de high end dingen graag nieuw. Die hebben zoveel spullen, die hebben ons nog niet nodig. En zijn ook wat ouder, en shoppen nog niet zo vaak online. Vaak 40 - 65 jaar.! ! Wat is volgens jullie de motivatie van jullie verkopers?! kast opruimen, een ander ermee blij maken, emotionele aspect, zonde om weg te goien, kwalitatief goede dingen nog voor een tweede leven. ! verdienen. vaak wel stukken met waarde waar ze dan nog wel iets van terug willen zien.! ! Wat is volgens jullie de motivatie van jullie kopers?! exclusiviteit. unieke designer pieces scoren. voor een goeie deal dingen die niet meer in de winkel te krijgen zijn. onze doelgroep heeft wel een duurzame component, maar is niet de intrinsieke motivatie nog. men denkt nog niet na over duurzaamheid, maar wij als bedrijf kunnen dit wel pushen.! ! Wat zijn jullie verwachtingen voor de toekomst?! ik denk dat TNC de grootste wordt. we zijn heel hard aan het groeien. er is heel veel vraag. meer klanten uit het buitenland. uitbreiden naar buitenland, mannen, kinderen, boutiques.! tweedehands kopen word steeds normaler. wij zien dat mensen dit heel normaal vinden en ook gaan doen.! de technologie is er nu. je kan vraag en aanbod beter bijelkaar brengen nu. je brengt de producten via internet makkelijker bij de juiste mensen.! Zelf zullen we focussen op meer editorial content. focus op magazine en blog. dat je inspiratie haalt uit onze site in magazine stijl en dat je dat item dan ook meteen kan kopen.! 99 en we merken dat er veel behoefte is aan het sociale aspect. We gaan zorgen dat je als DIY gebruiker verkopers kunt reviewen en aangeven of je blij bent met een aankoop of niet.! En er komt natuurlijk een app aan.! wij geloven niet in dat trendgevoelige. focus op tijdloze klassiekers, die vaak weer doorverkocht kunnen worden.! ! ! Nog dromen voor de toekomst? Hoe ziet het eruit over tien jaar?! nieuwe boutiques met overjarige collecties en dead stock die bij ons zullen aansluiten. die ook op zolder blijven hangen en in het kleine winkeltje te weinig bezoekers krijgen. ! uiteindelijke droom om de ‘far fetched’ te zijn voor de tweedehands kledingmarkt. farfetched is een online portal voor kleine winkeltjes. dat wij dat gaan zijn voor tweedehands kledingmarkt en zo alle kleine vintage boetiekjes ook bijelkaar brengen.! ! Denk je dat uiteindelijk de markt zal groeien in de vorm van sustainability?! steeds meer vraag gaat komen naar kwalitatieve kleding. daar sourcen wij ook heel erg op.! we nemen geen H&M aan, want na 3 keer wassen is het op bij wijze van spreken.! er is wel steeds meer een beweging op zoek naar kwalitatief goede kleding die zn waarde lang behoud! wij willen mensen hierop inspireren. want dat kun je uiteindelijk beter doorverkopen, kledingstukken van goede kwaliteit.! mensen willen unieke mooie dingen kopen en door dit soort initiatieven krijg je hier toegang tot. de manier om unieke items te scoren. als reactie op de modeketens die allemaal het zelfde verkopen.! plus het zijn designer stukken die een groep vaak niet kan veroorloven, en nu wel.! mensen zullen gaan shoppen van elkaar. ! We kijken ook samen met Circle Economy hoe we sustainability nog meer kunnnen integreren met TNC, sustainable designers bijvoorbeeld die oude stukken hebben, dat wij die ook verkopen. Of we willen een landelijke campagne doen om kleding in te zamelen.Samen sta je sterk. Of een benefiet diner met BNers die hun kleding stukken laten veilen en de opbrengst gaat dan naar onze goede doelen.! ! Hoe kunnen we uiteindelijk de mensen die nog niet kopen, wel laten aansluiten hierbij?! awareness. hoe meer items we hebben, hoe meer mensen ons zullen vinden. we zijn nog klein.! alles is uniek, dus als we nieuwe dingen hebben is er natuurlijk maar een klein percentage in jouw maat misschien. op die manier wel meer mensen bereiken in de toekomst.! focus op sociale aspect.! specifieke nieuwsbrieven.! search optimalisatie; kan nog veel meer uitgebreid worden. we hebben wel filter dat je kan filteren op maat en seizoenen. en je kan mensen volgen waarvan je de maat ebt. sale alerts kan je instellen. nu nog te duur maar als ie in verkoop komt dan wil ik het weten.! moet hier nog optimaliseren. uiteindelijk wel de page view op jouw lievelingen merken en jouw maten aan te passen.! ! Wat zou in de weg kunnen staan hiervan?! je moet wel groot genoeg zijn. dat zie je in duitsland nu ook, rebel en .. samenvoegen. moet voor de koper niet te veel hassle zijn. dat willen wij allemaal wegnemen.! ! ! 100 Interview United Wardrobe Thijs Verheul - Founder ! 24-11-2014! summary/important questions:! ! Wanneer is United Wardrobe opgericht?! 15 jan 2013.! ! En waarom/wat was de aanleiding? Had het milieu er iets mee te maken?! vanuit sjuul zn zus: problemen met dingen op marktplaats en Facebook verkopen. nee niet per se vanuit een duurzame component.! ! Was het een afstudeer opdracht of iets dergelijks? ! nee puur uit onszelf, de uni heeft ons wel geholpen. en alle prijzen voor het idee van de onderneming hebben geholpen. Accenture Innovation Awards Publieksprijs gewonnen, 20.000 euro. En Startlife steunt UW onder naam van het Jonge Helden Fonds. Verder ook ons eigen spaargeld erin gestopt.! ! Kwam UW vanuit een facebook groep?! Nee, die groep is van Milou en wij adverteren op haar groep. dat is onze concurrent ook. maar we mogen producten in die groep delen en er staat een vastgesteld bericht van ons. dus veel mensen komen ook naar UW op die manier. ze waren eerst super kritisch. 10% commissie was te veel en hoezo wil je geld verdienen aan ons!? maar uiteindelijk is het precies deze groep die geïnteresseerd is in een platform als wij en dus ook UW leden zijn geworden.! ! Wat heeft zij eraan?! zij krijgt een maandelijks bedrag van ons om te laten adverteren. het is de grootste Facebook groep voor kleding en dat is voor ons belangrijk om daarin aanwezig te zijn.! ! Waarom is het zo succesvol! de tweedehands winkels zijn eigenlijk ouderwets geworden. ze vragen veel commissie en het is moeite. op platformen zoals bij ons vragen we maar 10% commissie en je krijgt het gelijk op je rekening gestort als er iets verkocht is. bij tweedehands winkels is dat allemaal ingewikkelder.! het is zo laagdrempelig. gratis account aanmaken, je kan zoveel mogelijk uploaden. no cure no pay concepten. net als air bnb of uber of bol.com. je krijgt geld als je iets verkoopt.! marktplaats is te onoverzichtelijk. te groot. je kan niemand volgen of iets dergelijks. Mode is iets wat je samen doet. Je zit in een sociaal vacuum met vrienden en kennissen om je heen waarmee je dingen aanschaft en waardoor je geïnspireerd word. Dit is bij ons als online platform ook aanwezig, en op plekken als marktplaats niet. je kunt mensen volgen als je merkt dat dat jouw stijl is of jouw maat. en je kunt reageren op producten. mensen kunnen je adviseren. het is heel open. maar wel veilig. ! de veiligheid, daar zit ons verdien model in. wij verdienen geld aan de transacties. ! het is veel makkelijker dan de ouderwetse winkels, en leuker en handiger dan op marktplaats. het heen en weer gemail, het geregel en dergelijke. het gemak dat wij bieden, daar betaal je eigenlijk zo weinig voor.! ! Wie is jullie target group/ wie zijn jullie gebruikers?! voornamelijk jonge vrouwen. iedereen van 16 - 50 jaar kan ons gebruiken. maar wat er nu op de site zit zijn voornamelijk jonge vrouwen 15 - 45 jaar. eigenlijk wil iedereen er leuk uitzien maar niet de hoofdprijs voor betalen. en dat kan bij ons.! 101 we hebben een paar topsellers. ze maken goede en duidelijke leuke foto's, niet al te hoge prijzen, snel contact opnemen na een verkoop, ook bij een vraag snel reageren. maar voornamelijk de leukste foto's maken. daar draait het echt om.! ! Hoeveel informatie hebben jullie van de gebruikers?! telefoon, adres en bankrekening nummer. als er traag word gereageerd bij een verkoop oid dan nemen wij contact met ze op.! ! maar het blijft dus heel anoniem?! ja voor gebruikers zeker, je ziet alleen de voornaam. geen telefoon nummer of email adres. aan de contact kant is het anoniem, maar ze kunnen hun wel uitdrukken creatief. je kan je profiel personaliseren. en aan de hand van hun foto's van de producten kun je zien wie ze zijn! ! Ben je geïnteresseerd om te weten wie het zijn?! het is leuk om te zien hoe enthousiast ze zijn, leuke jonge vrouwen die van mode houden en veel hippe kleding in hun kast hebben.! ! Is er verschil tussen de kopers en de verkopers?! we merken dat de verkopers ook veel kopen op ons netwerk. deze groep is best wel hetzelfde.! ! Wat is de motivatie van de verkopers denk je?! we merken dat de verkopers ook veel kopen op ons netwerk. deze groep is best wel hetzelfde. het idee van iets aanschaffen, een paar keer dragen en dan weer doorverkopen is heel gangbaar geworden. 80 van je tijd gebruik je 20 procent van je kleding. dat is wel waar nu. merk ik bij mezelf ook, een periode dat je bepaalde kledingstukken heel chill vind en andere weer niet.! ! Hebben jullie ook mannelijke verkopers?! ja zeker. maar in verhouding is maar 5 procent man, en 95 procent vrouw. we zien wel veel mannen die exclusieve sneakers verkopen. we richten ons voornamelijk op vrouwen nu.! Hoe doe je dit dan?! via Facebook advertisement bijvoorbeeld. dan kun je aanvinken dat alleen vrouwen deze advertentie te zien krijgen. en dan pak ik er wat merken erbij, adidas, louis vuitton, vintage, primark etc, en alle mensen die die merken geliked hebben krijgen ook onze advertenties te zien op hun pages.! ! En hoe zoek je dan uit welke merken je gaat schaduwen?! eigenlijk heel random, elke keer weer iets niewus. nike en adidas zijn giga veel mensen dus dat werkt altijd wel. ! ! Dus jullie doen voornamelijk jullie marketing via Facebook?! ja zeker. het is nog een beetje een ongeslepen diamant die Facebook marketing. heel veel bedrijven weten nog niet hoe je effectief via Facebook kan adverteren, maar wij zien zoveel opbrengst ervan. veel webshops gebruiken nog google adworks, dat is eigenlijk ouderwets en te duur. Facebook is zo effectief, dat zien wel. Facebook vraagt bijvoorbeeld 3 cent per klik naar de website. en google adworks is vaak 2,50 per klik naar de website. groot verschil.! ! Hoe merkte je dat Facebook een effectief marketing tool was?! 102 Het begon met gesponsorde likes. dat mensen je pagina gaan liken voor je. was best wel effectief. en toen merkte ik dat je ook voor 50eu per dag clicks naar je website kan laten doen. en de dag dat we dat deden ging het helemaal los. 3 keer zoveel aanmeldingen, 3 keer zoveel orders. normaal zaten er 18 mensen op UW en die dag zaten er meer dan 50 op de site. en nu 150. tis giga aan het groeien, mede door die goedkope marketing.! ! En jullie willen ook uitbreiden naar het buitenland?! ja klopt. we zijn nu de website in het Frans aan het vertalen. plan 1 is dus uitbreiden naar België. we zien steeds meer Belgen die zich aan melden. dan eerst kijken hoe loopt het in België, hoe gaan de transacties over de grens, wat voor vragen krijgen we van ze. en daarna Frankrijk.! en uiteindelijk het doel dat het een internationaal platform word. ook met Amerika en Azië samenwerken. dus als jij op zoek bent naar een exclusieve jaren 50 Prada tas en iemand in LA heeft die, dat je toegang krijgt hiertoe.! ! En dan stuurt ook iedereen het zelf op?! ja het blijft altijd consumer-to-consumer.! ! Hoe zorg je dat de site niet vol komt met troep?! wij doen een selectie van de producten die op de site komen. als er producten op komen waar wij het niet mee eens zijn, dan blokkeren wij dat product. geen goede foto's gemaakt of geen goede producten. daarmee voorkomen we dat de website vol met troep staat. het komt er wel eerst op. maar wij zijn de hele tijd aan het controleren. dit doen wij nu nog zelf. maar er is wel een algoritme voor waar we mee bezig zijn, eigenlijk het zelfde als het Facebook of twitter algoritme, de dingen die geliked worden of geretweet, die blijven bovenaan staan. en de onpopulaire dingen gaan naar onderen. en na een tijdje worden de producten vanzelf verwijderd van de site. ! ! je merkt waneer stufi word gestort, twee weken heel veel orders dan een dip. dan komt zorgtoeslag. dan weer omhoog.! ! Dus toch wel voornamelijk studenten als gebruikers?! ja toch wel de grootste groep. 60 procent wel 16-25 jaar.! ! Hoe zien jullie de toekomst, hoe gaan jullie jezelf nog verbeteren?! lange termijn doel wel het gedrag van de gebruikers achterhalen. nu nog niet omdat de tijd en de middelen er nog niet voor zijn. kijken hoe we de bounce percentage lager kunnen brengen. het is nu 75 procent. ! we maken veel gebruik van google analytics. als we zien dat het bounce percentage na een verandering opeens omhoog gaat, kijken we nog eens naar wat er mis is gegaan. bijvoorbeeld een knop die op een onduidelijke plek staat ofzo iets. of andere onlogische dingen. en dat mensen dan te snel wegklikken. ! ! Fulltime baan voor jullie?! ja nog wel aan het studeren, maar we zitten hier wel 7 dagen per week aan. ! ! Wat voor andere marketing hebben jullie gedaan?! filmpjes, de UW tasjes, posters, stickers, flyers, universiteit, kranten contacten, meest effectief is toch wel internet. online marketing. Facebook. met prijzen meedoen is ook hele goeie PR. 103 daarmee op Nu. nl gekomen. nu ook op volkskrant gekomen, Bregje Lampe gestalked. Daarna zie je gelijk verschil. veel groei. sinds de app ook 2000 extra bezoekers dagelijks erbij.! ! Wat is de motivatie van jullie verkopers denk je?! Je hebt de groep die het functioneel doet, de groep die het uitprobeert, de groep die het voor het milieu doet.! ! Wat is de motivatie van jullie kopers denk je?! tweedehands kleding wel nog steeds in trek. de groep die er net even wat anders wil bijlopen, die vintage jas scoren die je nergens anders hebt! ! Heeft het te maken met een milieu bewustzijn?! de trend van duurzaamheid en deeleconomie is wel aan de gang en daar sluit het ook bij aan, maar denk niet dat de mensen echt kopen voor de duurzaamheid. 5 of 6 procent misschien. koopjes zijn belangrijker. ! ! Hoe merk je dat?! via Facebook en benaderen van mensen wel geprobeerd om het op de duurzaamheid trend te gooien, omdat we dat vanuit onze studie ook heel erg gewend zijn. maar we zien dat daar niet zoveel animo voor is. omdat je er dood mee gegooid word laatste tijd.! ! Ja voel je dat zo? ja zeker, groene energie bla bla. wij zijn natuurlijk wel een groen bedrijf omdat het gaat om het hergebruiken van kleding maar dat is eigenlijk een bijkomstigheid. we trekken meer mensen met de leuke fashion items. daarmee komen veel sneller mensen binnen. mensen weten toch wel dat ze groen bezig zijn als ze tweedehands kleding kopen. dat is ook niet iets waarmee je ze over de streep haalt. lage prijzen is eerder iets wat dat doet. ! ! Wat zijn de regeltjes/wat is modieuze kleding?! goeie foto. product centraal effen achtergrond. product moet er verzorgd uitzien, gestreken en niet vies. geen neppe producten. troep trekt ook andere troep aan; je moet een goede basis hebben.! elke dag 2000 nieuwe producten op de site, die gecheckt worden. ! 40.000 actieve producten nu.! ! Hoe zien jullie de toekomst? Denk je dat er meer platforms zullen ontstaan?! wij hopen voor kleding te kunnen domineren. ticketswap doet het met tickets. bol.com doet het met boeken. er zal vast een electronica marktplaats ook komen.! ik denk dat er 1 marktplaats wereldwijd zal komen. binnen nu en tien jaar, per netwerk 1 platform. al het vraag en aanbod op 1 netwerk. voor kleding 1 voor huizen 1. met slimme algoritmes kun je overal en heel specifiek zoeken. op zich kan 1 netwerk dit nu bieden. dus waarom zou er meerdere netwerken zijn. ! ! Waarom denk je dat er animo zal zijn in de toekomst om 1 groot wereldwijd platform te hebben?! sinds de romeinse tijd willen mensen iets van verre oorden. exclusieve dingen. dus dat zal altijd wel blijven bestaan. unieke dingen uit verre landen.! ! Wat verwacht je voor de toekomst? Is het gericht op ruilen? denk je dat het ook het retail landschap kan gaan veranderen?! 104 de ruil economie, is nu iets ontastbaars, we moeten wel steeds meer dingen van elkaar gaan gebruiken. verpakkingloze supermarkten, air bnb, uber etcetera.! gebruiken producten van elkaar maar wel op commerciële basis. ! ruilen werkt niet echt. het is te moeilijk. wanneer heeft iets nou dezelfde waarde. op commerciele basis is altijd beter. geld is niet voor niets een betaalmiddel. ! niet zoveel verstand van het e retail landschap.! ! Jullie zijn niet heel bewust bezig met duurzaamheid dus?! vind het wel heel erg belangrijk. ik probeer zelf duurzaam te leven. krijgen we via de studie mee. UW is niet opgericht vanuit duurzaamheid. Maar ik weet wel dat dit ethisch verantwoord is en daarom gaan we er mee door.! ! Zou je dat willen verbeteren? Transport regelen vanuit UW met een groen bedrijf?! hebben met post nl om de tafel gezeten maar die leven allemaal nog in de jaren 90 zijn zo oubollig met contracten en regeltjes en niet haalbaar voor ons. ! Hoezo niet?! wij willen internationaal gaan. en dan zouden we met elk postbedrijf van elk land contracten moeten sluiten.! ! Hoe kijken jullie aan naar het textiel afval probleem/ ligt de verantwoordelijkheid bij de consument?/ligt het bij de winkels?! het is een vrije markt. de consument wil de hoogste kwaliteit voor de laagste prijs. en dan krijg je onethische praktijken. dan zou je naar het communisme terug moeten. of nog meer organisaties die zich er in verdiepen. maar de fast fashion ketens gaan toch altijd mazen in de wet vinden om ergens onderuit te komen en op deze manier te blijven produceren. totdat we tot een punt komen dat het niet meer langer kan. en dat mensen alleen dit soort platformen gaan gebruiken. maar er moet eerst echt iets gebeuren voordat daar verandering in gaat komen.! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! 105 Interview De Kast van Amsterdam - Sophie van Oirschot - Founder & CEO ! 13-02-2015! summary/important questions:! ! Wanneer is de Kast van Amsterdam opgericht? ! Januari 2014.! ! Waar kwam toen de inspiratie voor dit platform vandaan? ‘Waarom’ is het opgericht?! Ik zag de vraag bij m’n vriendinnen en bij mezelf, te veel kleren, en wel kwijt willen maar niet zomaar weggeven of gooien. En Marktplaats is gewoon te groot. het moet kleiner, ergens waar het kaf van het koren al is gescheiden, en het moet heel goedkoop gehouden worden. en kwalitatief goede items. maar voornamelijk omdat mensen hun kast willen uitruimen.! ! Hoe groot is de Kast ongeveer?! 40 kasten. meer dan 9000 Facebook likes. instagram iets minder. zou meer uitgehaald kunnen worden, maar de instagram volgers zijn vaak buitenlands, en die kunnen nu toch nog niet kopen bij de kast.! ! Wie zien jullie als concurrenten in Nederland? ! United wardrobe wel. En Trash to Treasure. hadden ook een pop up shop. dat werkte goed.! ! Wie zien jullie als concurrenten in het buitenland?! de Kats is alleen nog maar gericht op NL. dus het buitenland heeft geen effect op ons.! ! Wat onderscheid De Kast van andere platformen (die steeds meer worden opgericht)? ! heel intiem en persoonlijk, sophie doet alles, dit is haar stijl die overruled. dat is de USP. je houdt er van of niet. het komt vanuit 1 persoon. Plus het is echt goedkoop. ! ! Over jullie doelgroep:! Wie zijn jullie gebruikers? Hebben jullie statistieken die aangeven dat de meerderheid bijvoorbeeld vrouw is? Of wat voor leeftijd heeft jullie gemiddelde gebruiker denkt u? Wat voor type vrouw is het?! Kopers en verkopers zijn een beetje dezelfde groep, modebewuste meisjes van rond de 20 jaar, die wel erg op koopjes gericht zijn. Heb geprobeerd om iets duurder te gaan, een paar euros per product, maar dat werkte totaal niet. Verloor veel traffic. Exclusieve items van duurdere merken, slaat ook niet echt aan. ! De Kast is bedoeld voor een jonge doelgroep. die heeft nou eenmaal niet t veel budget. en daar blijven we ook bij. ! ! Hoe kan het dat de oudere vrouwen niet echt op de Kast shoppen?! De gebruikers zijn vrij jong. Dat zie je gelijk op de website, met ieders foto erop. Plus de groep van ouderen zijn nu eenmaal een groep die niet gewend zijn om online te zijn. ze verkiezen fysieke winkels boven online webshops. ! Echter, over 20 jaar is onze generatie, een generatie die wel heel bekend is met online alles, die zullen veel sneller kopen en verkopen online. ! ! Hoe zien jullie de toekomst? Wat zijn jullie verwachtingen van de online tweedehands kleding markt?! 106 Zoals net gezegd, de toekomst heeft erg veel perspectief. Als onze online generatie ook de oude generatie betreft. ! Er zit zeker toekomst in deze markt, er is heel veel vraag naar, zowel het verkopen willen er iets leuks voor krijgen, zo weinig mogelijk doen, dat het wel verkocht word en dat ze de helft krijgen is prima. en mensen willen gewoon goedkoop shoppen. dat is iets wat zal blijven bestaan. een soort online boutique, en geselecteerd al. niet te veel uitgeven, wel bij een bepaalde stijl selectie, ingrediënten die zullen groeien, die behoeftes zullen blijven. men heeft te veel spullen. ze willen er vanaf op een leuke manier. We hebben een economische crisis gehad, de economie gaat nu wel weer beter, mensen geven meer geld uit, maar deze groep zal altijd blijven. koopjesjagers blijven wel. Mensen hebben nu geleerd om om te gaan met weinig geld. en gemerkt dat dit eigenlijk heel prima werkt. ! ! Wat zijn de voordelen voor consumenten om op deze manier tweedehands aan te schaffen?! het is online, je hoeft de deur niet uit, het kan op alle tijden van de dag, alle voordelen van online shoppen eigenlijk. terugzendingen wel heel belangrijk, verzendkosten en alles terugkrijgen. ! ! En wat is denkt u de voornaamste reden dat een groot deel nog niet op platformen zoals De Kast koopt en verkoopt?! tweedehands heeft nog een muffig imago. Of het is niet hun stijl, ze kopen alleen maar nieuw. te oud, te simpel, te eenvoudig. te goedkoop. ! ! Wat denkt u dat de motieven zijn van de verkoopsters om hun kleding te verkopen vandaag de dag?! twee aanvragen per kasten per dag. ze willen verkopen. ergens bij willen horen. leuke stijlvolle meisjes. Er staat niet op de site hoe je een kast kunt krijgen. Je krijgt het gevoel dat je bij een community hoort als je een kast hebt. Het gaat niet alleen maar om het geld. Want Sophie krijgt 50 procent. dat is best veel commissie.! Het is een tegenbeweging op het individualisme van vroeger, er komen veel groepjes op in de maatschappij nu; eetclubjes, boekenclubjes, kleding verkopen groepjes. daar hoor je dan bij. individualisme is er niet in terug te zien. ! ! Wat denkt u dat de motieven zijn voor de tweedehands kopers?! Het is goedkoop. De Kast heeft veel vaste klanten, dit komt vooral doordat sophie alles heel hip inpakt met kraft papier, en bij elke bestelling een briefje met een persoonlijke note van wie het is geweest en een bedankje. vb: “heb dit gedragen op een eerste date. hoop dat het jou net zoveel geluk brengt als mij”. ! ! Hoe zouden we kunnen zorgen dat een sustainable alternatief als De Kast in de toekomst nóg meer gebruikers zal krijgen en dat uiteindelijk iedereen voor een groot deel kleding zal hergebruiken?! binnen het organiseren ervan een community te hebben, als organisaties samenkomen en een soort gigantisch front vormen. en met zn allen de klant informeren.! Volgens mij heeft United Wardrobe bijvoorbeeld al die Facebook groepen (amsterdam yard sale, vintage marketplace, en andere groepen) opgekocht, en op die manier een gigantisch bereik. Wat als we alle marktplaats gebruikers samenvoegen?! Ook denk ik dat je altijd de foto's zelf moet doen in bedrijf, zodat je 1 stijl heb. ! Ook slim om intiem te blijven, kleine groepjes/communities per stad. De Kast van Utrecht. De Kast van Rotterdam. etc.! 107 Interview Designer Vintage Managing Partner Kim van der Knaap! 01-03-2015! — dit is een samenvatting van het interview, dat op 6 maart telefonisch is gepleegd —! ! Designer Vintage is live gegaan in 2008, klopt dat? Ja! Waar kwam toen de inspiratie voor dit platform vandaan? ‘Waarom’ is het opgericht? Karin barnhoorn, de oprichtster, wilde een designer tas verkopen, kon wel op marktplaats maar vond het zo’n vreselijke plek, dus bedacht om dit platform op te zetten.! Waarom vond ze marktplaats een vreselijke plek?! Je ziet door de bomen het bos niet meer, er is te veel, en niet geselecteerd. Moeilijk om verkopers en kopers te vertrouwen, zeker als het gaat om designer spullen, je kunt niet vast stellen of het nep of echt is. Ook voor grote betalingen. Je krijgt vaak hele lage biedingen op artikelen die een hoge aankoop prijs hadden. ! ! Hoe zien jullie de bestaansmissie van DV? Waarom is het noodzakelijk dat jullie er zijn?! Bij ons weet je zeker dat de spullen authentiek zijn, er kan vertrouwd worden. mensen die verkopen, kunnen meer geld vragen voor hun spullen.het is een geselecteerde doelgroep al bij elkaar, die de waarde erkennen van bepaalde designerspullen. Je hoeft niet te onderhandelen als je dat niet wilt.! ! Om even de grootte in kaart te brengen, jullie hebben zo’n 23.400 Facebook likes en bijna 9000 Instagram followers. Hoeveel dagelijkse bezoekers heeft jullie website?! We hebben er zo’n 50.000 per maand, dus ongeveer 1666 per dag.! ! En hoeveel members hebben jullie op dit moment?! 20.000 geregistreerde members, sellers en kopers bijelkaar.! ! Wie zien jullie als concurrenten in Nederland?! United wardrobe meer concurrent van marktplaats. The next closet is zeker een concurrent in NL.! ! Wie zien jullie als concurrenten in het buitenland?! Vestiaire Collective, Rebel in Duitsland en Instantluxe in Frankrijk. ebay ook maar minder.! ! Wat onderscheid DV van andere platformen (die steeds meer worden opgericht)? ! Ander business model dan bijvoorbeeld vestiaire. zij zijn de tussenpersoon, goederen worden naar hen gestuurd, geupload en verkocht. Op deze manier worden verkopers ook gedwongen hun prijzen omlaag te gooien, zodat het beter verkoopt en Vestiaire meer verdient.! Bij DV betaal je om te uploaden, een flat fee, en betaal je geen comissie over je producten. USP is dan toch wel ons business model dat we geen commissie vragen, zo hou je als verkoper altijd veel meer geld over.! Wat is de flat fee ongeveer dan?! Dat is afhankelijk van de vraagprijs, bijvoorbeeld is je product onder de 150 euro betaal je eenmalig 14euro, is je product meer rond de 3000euro dan betaal je 86 euro.! ! Over jullie doelgroep:! Wie zijn jullie gebruikers? Hebben jullie statistieken die aangeven dat de meerderheid bijvoorbeeld vrouw is? Of wat voor leeftijd heeft jullie gemiddelde gebruiker denkt u? Wat voor type vrouw is het?! 108 Onze gebruikers zijn inderdaad voornamelijk vrouwen. We hebben een paar mannelijke leden, maar die zitten vaak professioneel in de verkoop van dit soort producten. De kopers zijn ook voornamelijk vrouwen, maar vaak wat jonger.! Zie je het verschil tussen de mensen die verkopen en de mensen die kopen? Of is dit dezelfde doelgroep?! Hier is duidelijk verschil in te zien bij ons. De kopers zijn vaak jongere vrouwen tussen de 18-25jaar en de verkopers de wat oudere dames met wat meer kapitaal die vaak designer stukken nieuw in de winkel kopen, zo tussen de 25-36 jaar.! ! Hoe zien jullie de toekomst? Wat zijn jullie verwachtingen van de online tweedehands kleding markt?! Er is heel veel gaande op de markt van online fashion c2c, heel veel nieuwe initiatieven op dit vlak, en dat geeft aan dat er een grote markt is. Maar we maken ons geen zorgen. ! Zijn er nog interessante initiatieven gevormd de laatste tijd?! De Duitse Glamloop en Rebel zijn gefuseerd, hebben samen een vuist gevormd. Dit is wel een interessante ontwikkeling. (sluit ook aan bij wat TNC zei, over dat er maar 1 groot netwerk moet zijn, dat werkt het beste - red). Vestiaire breid uit en gaat nu ook live in de US. In Azië zie je ook heel veel initiatieven oppoppen de laatste jaren. ! ! Wat zijn de voordelen voor consumenten om op deze manier tweedehands aan te schaffen?! Voor onze doelgroep is het bijvoorbeeld vaak zo dat ze op een wachtlijst komen voor bepaalde designer tassen ed. Bij ons is er geen wachtlijst, je kunt gemakkelijk een Chanel tas aanschaffen. En natuurlijk de zachtere prijs voor de designer stukken. Het word toegankelijker, ook voor een doelgroep uit een lagere prijsklasse. Dat zie je heel erg, dat de jongeren kopen van de ouderen. En deze items zijn vaak kwalitatief goed gemaakt en behouden hun waarde langer dan H&M en Zara spullen. ! ! En wat is denkt u de voornaamste reden dat een groot deel nog niet op platformen zoals DV koopt en verkoopt?! De awareness mist. Veel mensen kennen ons simpelweg nog niet, of weten niet dat het mogelijk is om dit online te doen. En velen hebben ook geen zin om zelf de moeite te doen. Om fotos te maken en uploaden. Daarom is het belangrijk dat we ook een side - dienst hebben voor die mensen, waar wij dan voor een zachte prijs al het werkt voor doen.! ! Wat denkt u dat de motieven zijn van de verkoopsters om hun kleding te verkopen vandaag de dag? En van de kopers? Heeft dit te maken met duurzaamheid? Of is het alleen gedreven vanuit financieel aspect?! Voor de kopers is duurzaamheid niet de motivatie, en eigenlijk voor de verkopers ook niet. Voor de kopers gaat het meer om het feit dat het goedkoper is dan nieuw in de winkel. En voor de verkopers gaat het meer om het feit dat het zonde is om weg te doen of ongebruikt in de kast te laten liggen. En een tweede leven te geven. Zowel financieel als emotioneel. Er zijn bijvoorbeeld ook verkoopsters die hun tas niet wilden verkopen als het geen leuke buyer is. Dit duidt op een duidelijke emotionele waarde.! ! Hoe belangrijk is duurzaamheid voor DV?! Op zich niet op nummer 1, zeker niet bij Designer Vintage. Bij Fashion Vintage al wat meer, omdat dat gericht is op items die snel weggegooid worden, en dat die nog een tweede leven krijgen. Echter de producten op DV worden bijna nooit weggegooid, daar zijn ze te waardevol voor. 109 Verder zullen we in de toekomst wel steeds meer hier mee doen. We zijn nu bijvoorbeeld bezig met een veiling te organiseren en vragen of mensen hun spullen willen doneren, waarvan de opbrengst naar goede doelen gaat. Goede doelen als Orange babies, of het Epilepsie Fonds.! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! 110 Interview Bregje Lampe - Fashion Editor de Volkskrant & ELLE! 15/04/2015! summary/important questions:! ! ! Hoe groot is de tweedehands kledingmarkt online nu volgens jou?! De markt is er, maar is op het moment nogal versnipperd. United wardrobe zie ik wel als een slim initiatief, werkt goed, maar krijgen niet iedereen natuurlijk. Er zijn verschillende groepen. ! ! Is het een groeiende markt?! De markt word steeds groter. Je ziet steeds nieuwe ondernemingen. Online kledingmarkt word groter dus dit ook. ! ! Denk je dat dit iets blijvends is?! Zeker. De drempel van online shoppen is inmiddels weg. De markt die er nu is, gaat niet nu minder worden.! Het stoffige imago van tweedehands is weg. ! ! Als de recessie een stimulant voor deze markt was, is het dan in twijfel te trekken of het wel zal blijven bestaan als de recessie weg ebt?! Nee, de online kledingmarkt word groter, dus deze markt ook. Als de economische crisis minder zou worden, dan nog zitten we met het probleem dat er gewoon te veel geproduceerd word nu.! Jonge mensen worden zich in toenemende mate bewust dat de industrie zoals die nu is niet vol te houden is. ! ! Dus je ziet dit als een ‘sustainable’ initiatief? Want je blijft wel een soort consumerism stimuleren.! Ja, ik zie het wel als een groen initiatief. Je koopt het in ieder geval niet nieuw. Dat is al goed.! ! Wie zijn de grote spelers volgens jou nu?! United Wardrobe, The Next Closet niet zo heel groot maar wel groeiend, Designer Vintage, Marktplaats niet alleen op kleding, maar zeker mentionable.! ! Is het een kans voor ondernemers? Denk je dat het beter is als er maar één groot platform zou zijn? ! Één groot platform is niet meer haalbaar. Er zijn nu al zoveel losse platformen. Bovendien zijn er verschillende segmenten die aangesproken moeten worden, en misschien is het helemaal niet slecht als er meerdere kleine bedrijfjes zijn. Kijk naar The corner, Net a porter, My theresa, die kunnen allemaal naast elkaar bestaan. En ook naast naast Asos, Goggles, etc. Als je maar een niche markt vind om aan te spreken.! Het past ook wel bij online dat het niet 1 plek is. Het kost jou echt geen tijd om op je mobieltje naar verschillende apps te gaan en zo door meerdere winkels gaan. Dat is de toekomst.! ! Hoe kijk jij er zelf tegen aan? Verkoop je wel eens wat online? ! Zo nee, waarom niet?! Nee, ik geef het vaak weg aan vriendinnen. Ik heb geen tijd of zin in het gedoe van foto's maken en dergelijke. En als ik er iemand die ik ken blij mee kan maken, dan doe ik dat graag. ! ! Waarom denk jij dat deze beweging is ontstaan? ! 111 Ik denk dat als mensen erachter komen dat ze nog ergens geld mee kunnen verdienen, dan doen ze dat. Net als bijvoorbeeld air bnb is, als mensen geld kunnen verdienen met hun kamer verhuren dan doen ze dat ook. Zeker bij designer spullen is dat duidelijk, daar kun je nog best wat mee verdienen. Maar ook voor de gewone spullen geldt dat.! ! En waarom is dat voor jou dan geen incentive?! Tja, dat is heel persoonlijk. Ik heb geen zin in het gedoe, en ik ben er best wel een beetje aan gehecht. Ik denk dan als ik dit jurkje aan mijn vriendin kan geven en zij wordt daar heel blij van, dan zie ik dat graag.! ! Ik heb het idee dat deze beweging is aangewakkerd door alle succesvolle platformen in de US. Zou dit kunnen? Nemen wij vaker dingen over van Amerika?! Ja zeker, dat denk ik ook. Als er iets in Amerika gebeurt dan gebeurt dat vaak 5 jaar later bij ons zeg maar. Er is zeker groeipotentie.! ! Hoe kijk jij er tegen aan als retailers zelf een online platform for resale zouden hebben? Zou dit werken?! Hmm, ik zou niet weten of dat wel werkt. Want dan ga je uit van hele merkgetrouwe consumenten. Die zoeken op merk, in plaats van bijvoorbeeld een blauw overhemd. Zijn ze wel merktrouw? Bij grote merken heeft het misschien wel potentie, omdat ze dan een zekerheid hebt over de authenticiteit van de spullen bijvoorbeeld. ! ! Hoe ziet de toekomst er uit? Zal dit groter worden?! Ja zeker. Deze markt zit in de lift. Zoals eerder gezegd, het stoffige imago van tweedehands is weg en de online kledingmarkt is aan het groeien dus zal dit ook gaan groeien.! ! Wat zijn de kansen? Wat zijn bedreigingen volgens jou?! De bestaande platforms zijn de bedreigingen. Je kan dit alleen maar doen als je zelf een slimme niche weet te vormen. De bestaande platformen hebben allemaal al een bestaande markt. Dus als je dan eenzelfde platform gaat oprichten dan heb je te maken met hun concurrentie, dat word moeilijk. Je moet je op een niche focussen. Specialiseren in iets. Al heb je alleen maar blauwe overhemden.! Of alleen maar jurken. Of alleen maar grote maten. Die niches zijn wel te vinden denk ik.! ! Zijn er initiatieven rondom de tweedehands kledingmarkt online die iets nieuws of innovatiefs brengen naar jouw weten?! Ja de kledingbibliotheken hebben bij mij wel iets getriggerd. Ik vind dat een heel leuk en innovatief concept, geheel in lijn met de current ontwikkelingen. LENA en die in Utrecht. ! En United Wardrobe op zich ook wel, het is een slimme onderneming. Ze kunnen de nieuwe marktplaats worden.! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! 112 Interview Prof. Jesse Weltevreden - Lector Online Entrepeneurship at HvA & CAREM & Weltevreden Research and Consultancy.! 13/04/2015! summary/important questions of interview by phone:! ! • Marktplaats is nog steeds by far het grootste C2C Ecommerce platform voor de tweedehands markt in Nederland.! • eBay staat op tweede plek (zelfde eigenaar ook). Speurders niet echt meer. bol.com is rising, met z’n tweedehands marktplaats. eBay is meer internationaal gericht, voornamelijk dingen die je in je eigen land niet kan krijgen (verzamelobjecten, munten, singeltjes, electronica etc)! • Marktplaats en eBay representeren ruim genomen meer dan 50% van de c2c ecommerce markt.! • Fashion resale platformen waar het product eerst naar het bedrijf gaat en daarna pas door naar een andere consument is geen c2c maar b2c.! • C2c ecommerce markt online meer sales volume dan de b2c ecommerce markt online; lastig te zeggen. de vraag is dan wat je meeneemt in je statistieken; als je de reisbranche ook mee telt dan is het anders.! • De omzet bepalen van een platform zoals Marktplaats is heel lastig omdat er niet aan de site gemeld word voor hoeveel een product uiteindelijk verkocht wordt. Voorzichtig zijn met dit soort uitspraken dus.! • Omvang van c2c ecommerce markt is gigantisch aan het groeien en zal ook wel zo doorgaan. Voordat er internet was werd er weinig tussen mensen verhandelt, omdat er bijna geen mogelijkheden waren. Nu is het ZO gemakkelijk gemaakt, dat iedereen er wel aan mee zal gaan doen.! • Motivatie is dus vaak: toch wel de crisis, dat mensen hun best gaan doen om op bepaalde manieren meer inkomsten te krijgen; het verkopen van je spullen die je niet meer gebruikt. En het gemak. ! • De meerderheid koos in mijn enquete voor het kopen van tweedehands offline in plaats van online. zouden we hierover kunnen zeggen dat dat per jaar afneemt? elk jaar worden mensen meer op hun gemak bij het aanschaffen van producten online? Verbaast hierover. Heb het idee dat de meeste kopers toch liever online kopen. Wat voor soort consumenten heb je gesproken? Kinderkleding wordt bijvoorbeeld veel liever online gekocht dan helemaal naar een winkel gaan, omdat de maten toch altijd het zelfde vallen.! • Toekomst: zeker potentie om te groeien. Denk dat het ook voornamelijk bij retailers zichtbaar gaat zijn: dat de grote retailers ook een online marketplace hebben, net als bol.com. dat is toch een stukje extra service dat je je klant aan kan bieden, als die bijvoorbeeld iets zoekt dat jij niet meer op voorraad heb, maar een andere klant biedt het tweedehands aan voor deze prijs, dat werkt heel goed. Zalando bijvoorbeeld, zal me niet verbazen als dat er aan zit te komen.! • Er zal denk ik niet 1 groot platform globaal ontstaan, eerder een spreiding van marktplaatsen.! • Goede investering: niet echt. mensen zijn marktplaats gewend. Het is juist zo handig voor de ‘gewone mens’ om al je spullen op 1 plek te kunnen verkopen, en al je advertenties kunnen beheren op 1 plek. Plus het heeft al een gigantisch netwerk. En groot aanbod voor kopers.! • Echter lastig verdien model voor dit soort marktplaatsen die geen commissie vragen. oppassen met bedrijfsadvertenties, voor klanten super irritant en gaat tegen je werken.! • Probleem is dat je voor de meeste tweedehands kleding niet zo veel terug krijgt. Unieke Gucci jasjes ofzo natuurlijk wel, maar de average tweedehands kleding is niet meer zoveel waard. Als er dan ook nog commissie vanaf gaat dan word het wel een heel klein extraatje voor de moeite die je er voor moet doen.! 113 ! • Stel iemand zou nu een online platform opzetten voor mensen om hun kleding te kopen en verkopen, wat voor advies zou je diegene dan meegeven? Ik zou zon platform niet opzetten in landen die al een gevestigde marktplaats hebben. Misschien wel in ontwikkelingslanden bijvoorbeeld, plekken waar mensen wel toegang hebben tot internet, die goedkoop tweedehands kleding uit Nederland kunnen krijgen. (Hoe goedkoop is dat dan vraag je je af….)! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! 114 Popularity of Dutch online platforms:! Ranked by Facebook likes:! ! 6 feb 2015:! • United Wardrobe (founded 2013): 91.787 likes! • Designer Vintage (founded 2008): 23.405 likes! • De Kast van Amsterdam (founded 2013): 9034 likes! • Trash to Treasure (founded 2013): 4842 likes! • The Next Closet (founded 2013): 4816 likes! • Luxury Vintage (founded 2013): 3103 likes! • Vinty Women (founded 2014): 1783 likes! • Poppintags (founded 2014): 1308 likes! —————! ! •! ! ! 2ndHandBrand (founded 2014): 949 likes! Ranked by Instagram followers:! ! 9 feb 2015:! • Designer Vintage (founded 2008): 8886 followers! • Luxury Vintage (founded 2013): 3138 followers! • United Wardrobe (founded 2013): 1636 followers! • The Next Closet (founded 2013): 1533 followers! • Trash to Treasure (founded 2013): 555 followers! • De Kast van Amsterdam (founded 2013): 346 followers! • Vinty Women (founded 2014): 83 followers! ! ! ! ! ! ! • Poppintags (founded 2014): 27 followers! 115 Dutch Facebook groups focussed on the resale of clothing - organized by number of members 06-12-2014: ! ! - ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! Kleding Aangeboden/Gezocht (21.521 members)! Te Koop 2e hands kleding tassen en schoenen (6967 members)! FILOU kleding (4473 members)! Kleding Marktkraam Enschede (3273 members)! Kleding Gezocht/Aangeboden (2144 members)! Kleding-koopjeshoek-ede (2217 members)! Kleding verkoop hoek (1966 members)! Kleding verkopen/ruilen (1789 members)! Kleding Lansingerland, nieuw en tweedehands (815 members)! Kleding maat 92 t/m 164 alphen aan den rijn (809 members)! KLEDING EN SCHOENEN AANGEBODEN/GEZOCHT (752 members)! Amsterdamse kleding verkoop (725 members)! Verkoopgroep kleding Lansingerland (655 members)! Kleding- en schoenensale 0187 (599 members)! Maat 40+ kleding aangeboden/gezocht (537 members)! Kleding weggeefhoek en meer Tiel (484 members)! Gratis kleding en schoenen aangeboden (342 members)! Kleding Enzo voor Kids Reimerswaal (328 members)! kleding ruil/verkoop Leiden (: (270 members)! Kledingbank snekerhoek (265 members)! Kleding weggeefhoek Hengelo ov (246 members)! Amsterdamse kleding (193 members)! 116 User profiles United Wardrobe (nov 2014):! ! **! figuur 1: shows that the majority of the users of platform United Wardrobe are female (source: United Wardrobe, Google Analytics)! ! ! figuur 2: shows that the majority of the users of platform United Wardrobe are between 18 and 24 years old (source: United Wardrobe, Google Analytics)! ! ! ! ! 117 118 2013 2008 2014 2013 2013 2014 2013 Designer-Vintage The Next Closet De Kast van Amsterdam Luxury Vintage Poppintags Trash to Treasure Founded United Wardrobe Company NL NL NL NL NL NL NL Origin NL NL, Belgie NL, world wide? Amsterdam NL NL, world wide? NL, Belgie Reach NL NL NL NL NL NL, ENG, GER NL Website language current stop on members 40 kasten 2000 55.000 Users/ Members 150 500 1700 2500 Average Daily Visitors 4842 1308 3103 9034 4816 23.405 91.787 Facebook likes 6/2/2015 555 27 3138 346 1533 8886 1636 Instagram followers 9/2/2015 Low Low Premium Low Mid Mid Low Price Segment in consignment self service in consignment in consignment in consignment both self service self service/in consignment 95-5 average 90-10 :percenta ge depends on selling price per item 50-50 60-40 average 90-10 :percenta ge depends on selling price per item 90-10 percentage seller / company focus on stories behind garments, sustainable perspective. also new clothing. a part of the 5% consignment costs goes to charity daughter of designer-vintage; big reach focus on stories behind garments strong editorial content authenticity check, one of the first resale platforms the new marktplaats for fashion only USP ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! Case Overview Dutch platforms Case Overview Dutch platforms, 6 Feb 2015:! Analysis Facebook sellers - Stimulants to sell [25 Feb. 2015]:! ! ! ! ! ! ! 119 Vragenlijst focusgroep vrouwelijke Nederlandse consument 20-30 jaar! ! kopen jullie wel eens tweedehands kleding?! kopen jullie wel eens tweedehands kleding online?! verkopen jullie wel eens je eigen kleding?! verkopen jullie wel eens je eigen kleding online?! ! wat is je motivatie om je eigen kleding te verkopen vaak?! wat gebruik je dan liever? offline markten en closet sales en dergelijke, of online platforms op facebook of websites en dergelijke?! ! wat is je motivatie om tweedehands kleding te kopen?! ! in hoeverre ben je op de hoogte van wat de kledingindustrie voor negatieve invloed heeft op deze wereld?! ! vinden jullie dat de maatschappelijke verantwoordelijkheid van een kledingstuk ligt bij de retailer? als in, zij die het kledingstuk maken zijn in the end ook verantwoordelijk voor wat er mee gebeurd als laatste stap?! hoe zouden ze dit kunnen doen?! ! of ligt het bij de consument, het moment dat je iets hebt aangeschaft? ! gooi je ook wel eens kleding weg? zo ja, scheid je dan textiel afval van je gewone afval? net zoals je plastic, papier en glas scheidt?! ! wat vind je van het verkopen van je eigen kleding online? vind je het makkelijk? zou je dit blijven doen denk je? ! zie je toekomst in platformen als United Wardrobe, vergelijkend met de deel economie en de ruil handel.! ! Hoe denk je dat deze hype van het verkopen van je eigen kleding over 10 jaar geëvolueerd is?! ! ! 120 96 opinions on improving online fashion resale:! ! Wat zou het verkopen via internet volgens jou makkelijker en leuker kunnen maken? Als je ermee zou kunnen adverteren. Bijv jouw kledingstuk van de maand. Of 1 hot item, delen onder een kopje verkopers hot item. Als nog meer mensen hun kleding gaan verkopen is er nog meer keuze; dus kun je makkelijker een hele outfit shoppen. Wat je zoekt is dan misschien makkelijker te vinden. En shoppen via 1 tweedehands winkel lijkt me makkelijker dan losse verkopers, omdat de verzending bij meerdere kledingstukken dan in 1x gebeurd. En handig als er een ophaalpunt in de buurt is voor t pakje, ivm drukke baan. Kledingruil; zelfde kwaliteit, dichter bij huis, ipv met iemand helemaal afspreken om op te laten halen, opsturen, betalen via iDeal ofzo (aangezien ik t altijd via marktplaats doe contant etc) verzendkosten zijn vaak duur en houdt mensen tegen om iets aan te schaffen Zo simpel mogelijk kleding kunnen verkopen. Misschien via een app oid. Vaak vind ik platformen als Marktplaats te veel moeite kosten en ben ik snel gedemotiveerd. Maar misschien ben ik gewoon heel lui. Dat sommige informatie verplicht gegeven moet worden, zoals een foto of de maat - die dingen zijn wel echt essentieel. Als je bijvoorbeeld een keldingstuk van H&M wilt verkopen, dat je dan online makkelijk aan de foto van H&M kunt komen. Zodat je bij het model het kledingstuk 'in actie' kunt zien en de prijs enz. Creatieve verzend en betaalopties? Zekerheid aan beide kanten, vertrouwen. Maar dit kan natuurlijk niet afgedwongen worden. als de post er ook bij inbegrepen zit, dat het bedrijf ook de pakketjes ophaalt en brengt naar jouw koper. als je goeie filters hebt in het zoekproces als je het op een virtuele versie van jou zou kunnen passen, en kunt zien hoe het valt als de fotos beter gemaakt worden, strenger selectie proces dat het gemakkelijk is om het juiste publiek te trekken misschien Zoeken naar aanleiding van bijvoorbeeld jou verkochte items zodat je meer op stijl zoekt? Minder bewerkelijk maken, er wordt veel over en weer gechat over maten, lengte, "aanfoto's". Vrouwen blijven twijfelaars. Iets exclusievere Facebookpagina's bijvoorbeeld. Nu verzuip je in alle advertenties Meer overzicht in facebookgroepen Niet steeds om maat of afmetingen te hoeven vragen. "One size fits all" is grote onzin, iedereen is anders. En kwaliteitsaanbod, dus geen H&M ofzo. H&M koop ik zelf wel bij de H&M ;-) als het ook wat meer op andere leeftijdsgroepen en grotere maten was gericht Goeie foto's doen het hem altijd. 121 Wat ik erg snel merk is dat er op Kleding aangeboden/gezocht alleen maar maat S enzo wordt verkocht. Ik heb zelf maat L/XL en slaag bijna nooit op facebook. Er is wel een L/XL facebook maar die is veel minder druk. Dit vind ik jammer en ik zou een online verkoopplatform voor plussize meiden dan ook erg leuk vinden. Een eigen fotograaf ;) En bij marktplaats kun je bv. de bedrijven-advertenies niet wegfilteren als je zelf zoekt. Rating systeem, zoals bij Ebay, dat je weet wie betrouwbaar is of niet. Over het algemeen let ik wel goed op, maar alsnog toch een paar keer vieze kleding ontvangen met gele vlekken, ongesteldheids vlekken (IEWWW!!!), versleten en gaten... Ik weet niet precies hoe het beter kan, ik verwonderde me een beetje over hoe handig ze 't geregeld hebben bij United Wardrobe. Tof! Op die manier lijkt 't me erg handig om kleding te kopen en verkopen. Misschien is het ook iets om een deal te sluiten met een pakketbezorger. Het zal niet kunnen, maar het is maar een gedachte :) Misschien kan er op die manier voor gezorgd worden dat het leuk blíjft om tweedehandskleding te kopen. Ik vind het namelijk heel jammer als ik een trui van €6 koop waar ik dan ook nog 'es dat bedrag aan verzendkosten moet betalen. Nu is het moeilijk om nieuwe mensen met mijn verkoopsgroepje te laten kennismaken. Veel mensen hebben hun vaste personen waar ze kleding voor hun kindjes bij kopen. Ikzelf verkoop de te kleine kleertjes van mijn dochter via facebook (mijn eigen kleren niet omdat ik die meestal wel draag tot ze versleten zijn). Een afspraak maken waarbij als er interesse getoond word in bepaalde artikelen mensen niet voor onbepaalde tijd je product kunnen reserveren om vervolgens zonder reden of überhaupt contact op een behoorlijke manier afzien waardoor en waarna animo bij anderen ook weg is. Als er meer animo voor zou zijn Als er een site bestaan die selecteert op jouw stijl De reden waarom ik uiteindelijk toch besluit om het niet te kopen is vanwege het passen. De rompslomp als iets niet past. Groot bereik creeeren. !Leuker: daadwerkelijk dingen verkopen. Ik zou een betere camera moeten aanschaffen, ook heb ik te weinig daglicht in huis voor goeie foto's. Meer info over het kledingstuk zelf, de vorige eigenaar etc. Persoonlijker, en handiger bijv via een app waar je jouw maten etc kunt aangeven. EEN CONNECTIE MET DE KLEDING. DUS ONLINE GROEPJES TOT EEN WINKEL BRENGEN. Duidelijke omschrijving producten en niet alleen jurkje maat s Het makkelijk bijhouden van biedingen, en de mensen die afspraken niet nakomen of niet eens reageren bannen. -Als websites zoals united wardrobe uitgebreider zou zijn (bijvoorbeeld soort lookbook erbij). -Iets er op verzinnen dat het maken van foto's en beschrijven van kleding sneller laat gaan/ vergemakkelijkt. Geen idee 122 Ik denk als je er een bepaalde stijl aan kunt geven en er een sfeer aan toe kan voegen. Wat ik bijvoorbeeld doe is een eigen facebook pagina maken en het ook als een soort merk brengen waarin ik de stijl doorvoer in bijvoorbeeld in de productfotografie en inspiratie 'content'. (op facebook: The Garbage Club) !Het trekt mij meer aan als er een soort identiteit omheen wordt gecreëerd dan alleen foto's van kleren op een hangertje of een meisje voor de spiegel. Sites zoals UW rekenen nog 'service' kosten bij de aankoopprijs. Dit vind ik erg vervelend. Op deze manier komt een ketting of shirtje op dezelfde prijs uit als je het nieuw koopt. !Het zou het makkelijker maken als je wordt geholpen bij online verkopen. Dat je kleding kan sturen naar een online webshop en zij je kleren voor je gaan verkopen en dat jullie beiden een deel van de opbrengst krijgen. Online kopen zou leuker zijn als je er zeker van bent dat dat wat je koopt mooi en goed is. Op die manier weet je zeker dat het een goeie deal is, want online kopen heeft vind ik nog een bepaalde risico factor wat ervoor zorgt dat ik het toch meestal niet aandurf en liever in een winkel of tweedehandswinkel shop. als er 1 heel goede website was waar iedereen lid van was en die hele goede mogelijkheden zou hebben (nog beter dan UW) om te categoriseren op heel veel filters (prijs, kleur, merk, etc), zodat je heel makkelijk kan vinden wat je zoekt. - Als mensen zich houden aan de gemaakte afspraken. Ik stoor me vaak aan het feit dat mensen op het aller laatste moment hun verkoop afzeggen. Dan heb ik al een pakje gemaakt, moeite gedaan om het in te pakken, en dan blijkt dit voor niks te zijn geweest. !- En op facebook iets meer overzicht. Dat de zoekfunctie het beter gaat doen. En als ik me bijv kan abboneren op items die ik interessant vind, zodat ik niet door alle 'troep' hoef te scrollen. Een platform waarbij je een foto of video kan uploaden. Mensen hun reactie kunnen geven/ kunnen bieden. Als een item verkocht is, wordt de foto/het filmpje automatisch verwijdert. Dat je door alle foto's kunt scrollen maar ook dat je kan zoeken op soort. Zoals tops/broeken/ accesoires etc. Als er meer mogelijkheden zijn in het verkopen van de kleding Een wereld zonder oplichters zou te gek zijn. Dat alle kleding ingedeeld is,. zodat je goed kan zoeken naar speficieke items of maten. De ander te zien in de kleding die ze kopen van mij. Soort van terugkoppeling Misschien een soort app, maar verder vind ik het concept van United Wardrobe echt heel goed. De website mag nog wel iets soepeler en de kosten voor IDeal betalingen zijn vrij hoog voor deze tijd, maar verder is het een fantastisch concept. Wel denk ik dat er op een website veel minder gelegenheid is voor community. Op een Facebookgroup als Vintage Marketplace is veel meer communicatie mogelijk op een vrijblijvende manier. Ik vind het idee achter United Wardrobe goed (ik hou niet van al dat gepraat op marktplaats), maar ik vind dat servicekosten er ook meteen bij moeten staan en bepaalde 'straffen', wanneer iemand iets niet betaald (irritant). Ik mis op Nederlandse site een ratingsysteem, zoals op eBay het geval is. Ik denk dat dat veel helpt bij verkopers, maar ook bij kopers. Minder mensen etc. die op het laatste moment afhaken en betrouwbare verkopers. Succes met je onderzoek 123 niet zulke hoge verzendkosten bij post nl enz. :) Het niet zelf hoeven verzenden van de kleding naar de andere consument maar dit ook via een bedrijf laten verlopen. Als verkoper stuur je dus iets op naar een hypothetisch bedrijf, zeg United Wardrobe, en deze sturen het vervolgens naar de koper op. Zo is er altijd een tussencontrole. De juiste doelgroep kunnen benaderen boor mijn kleding. organisatie die opsturen en klachten verder afhandelt Veiliger. (vooral bij marktplaats) Meer structuur in zoektermen (met name bij united wardrobe en vooral op fb platform). Mensen proberen gewoon ook echt zoveel troep te verkopen die niemand meer wil. Als dat eruit geselecteerd kan worden. Als er toch op de een of andere manier meer garantie kan worden geboden, dus bijv. meer mogelijkheden om het item weer terug te brengen. Meer garantie op een goede koop. Betere ruil mogelijkheden. Een betrouwbaar platform dat je sowieso kan vertrouwen. Een soort van automatische photoshop die jouw snapshot van je kleding er een stuk beter uit laat zien. De website moet mijn kleding op komen halen, ookal betaal ik dan ietsje meer. Ik zal waarschijnlijk alleen dingen verkopen die een waarde hebben boven de 50euro. de rest zal ik doneren aan charity. En de website moet geen commissie rekenen van boven de 10%. Als ik er als consument zo min mogelijk moeite voor hoef te doen. Bij wijze van dat het bedrijf bij mij een tas met kleding en dergelijke op haalt, en dit gaat verkopen en hier zo min mogelijk commissie op maakt. Via Eigen Paypall door prysvragen rembours garantie gratis eigenlijk geen idee het vervelende vind ik, is dat je niet kan passen uploaden van de fotos. Het duurd vrij lang voordad iets op internet stad. Er staan op marktplaats teveel advertenties en handelaren met nieuwe spullen, wat het weker irritant maakt. Het is al vrij simpel via Martplaats maar toch kost 't veel tijd gratis advertentie omhoog plaatsen. maximaal aantal adevertentie niet meteen naar pag 100 verdwijnt! Meer subgroepen en leeftijds geborden sites/ groepen betere sites marktplaats voor kleren bvb ervoor zorgen dat de verzendkosten niet zo duur zijn aangezien die hoog op kunnen lopen Meer ruilgroepen groepen pen stad ivm verzend kosten marktplaat spcifiek voor kleding Makkelijker online zetten kost nu teveel moeite wat het misschien niet eens is voor adverteren toch goedkoper te maken is al goed 124 Vaker afterpay constructie dan kan ik ook aan kopen doen zonder mijn identifier en ik denk dat je dan meer koopt, want je kan ook dingen kopen als je op dat moment geen minder geld hebt Online direct afrekenen website die het makkelijk maakt om kleding toe te voegen, en het ook op een georganiseerde manier weergeft using a simple app or so would make selling online a lot easier meer zekerheid van verkoop meer betrouwbaarheid van koper Als het echt met profiel is en dat de mensen als het ware een kijke in je kledingkast kunt doen makkelijker en handiger als mensen niet heel lang tijd verspillen als ze uiteindelijk iets willen kopen een app als je fotos van je items maakt meteen op je pagina komen daar het heel simpel te maken als er meer staan va sites als het veiliger is nee, het is goed genoeg het gaat al gemakkelijk leukere webshops met goedkoper breder aanbad ik vind het al makkelijk zoals het nu is geval van thriftshopping online versturen met een app klik upload verkoop Door het makkelijker en bekender te maken via marktplaats verloopt de verkoop makkelijk het is ok gaat wel goed misschien iets van een paspop online zookit kopers het kleding stuk op een paspop kunnen zien de foto kledingstuk makkelijk ergens op te schriven Mobiel app upload foto verkoop ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! 125 Recommendations for a new online resale platform:! ! • combine with the remake of old clothing! • combine with dry cleaners and tailor! • focus on DIY ! • combine with leasing system! • have an app! • focus on niche market (occasional wear? wedding collections, maternity clothing, etc.)! • have a strong editorial content: magazine, photoshoots, inspirational photos, how to wear (with a product, combine with other products) ! • make it look like a regular online webshop! • have a model for all sizes (one for 34, 36, 38, 40, 42) and show the clothing on her, instead of a doll! • make a video of a model wearing the product, just like asos: it works fantastically! • combine with resale of retailers: late collections for sale! • have the service of picking up 1 big bag with clothing at someones doorstep! • donate the garments you will not sell to a charity, and be transparent in this: where is the clothing now; collaborate with charity on tracking the clothing and showing the previous owners! • have a focus on classical items and silhouettes: they will not go out of style quickly! • perhaps have your app as Tinder: who is in your neighborhood and you can look in her closet/ pick up right away! • focus on technology: a consumer can have its own virtual user profile, like an avatar, on which she can try on the clothes and see how it fits on her body! • Shop-Hers f.i. has a patent pending ‘Style Soul Mates algorithm’ which gives the consumer a personalized style feed based on favorite designers and their sizes! • include menswear, kidswear and home goods?! • focus on fast and free delivery, worldwide! • have a strong and easy return service (no costs, no hassle)! ! ! ! ! 126 127 40 120 285 kleding overig totaal 0.4 5.6 2.4 270 111 41 118 1.5 9.8 266 106 45 115 2013 81 187 462 kleding overig totaal 3.7 bron: OIS 14.8 totaal 479 192 93 194 2011 kleding ontwikkeling 194 antiek 2010 7.1 5.4 445 166 98 181 2012 20.0 10.2 534 252 108 174 2013 werkzame personen bij detailhandel in tweedehands goederen 5.0 totaal 286 118 42 126 2011 tweede hands kleding ontwikkeling 125 antiek 2010 2012 8.8 8.3 487 212 117 158 2014 2.6 8.9 259 106 49 104 2014 0.6 3.4 484 220 113 151 2015 6.9 14.3 241 101 42 98 2015 100 98 105 101 2011 100 100 100 100 2010 104 103 115 100 2011 index 2010 == 100 100 100 100 100 2010 index 2010 == 100 96 89 121 93 2012 95 93 103 94 2012 116 135 133 90 2013 93 88 113 92 2013 105 113 144 81 2014 91 88 123 83 2014 105 118 140 78 2015 85 84 105 78 2015 ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! aantal winkels in tweedehands goederen ! Onderzoek, Informatie en Statistiek bureau Amsterdam, ontvangen 31 maart 2015:! 128 2009 USA 2011 USA 2011 USA 2012 USA 2012 USA 2012 USA 2012 USA 2013 USA Closet Rich The Real Real Bib+Tuck Shop Hers Threadflip Vaunte Walk in My Closet Mid Premium Low Premium Mid Premium Mid Low Lowest priced item for sale Diane von Furstenberg romper, $35. Zara blue loafers, 35$ Glamorous peach pant, $44. Hot Pink Hello Kitty Vans, $10. Cynthia Steffe dress, $35. Users can literally take a peek into Cheap Monday each other's closets. Photograph dark grey yours and upload images (even if you jeans, $50. aren't selling and it's just for bragging rights), or create a virtual dream closet. Strong editorial content and design gives the site a different spin on the usual marketplace feel. It also has a menswear and home goods section. There's a strong emphasis placed on the social aspect of the site. Users can gain followers with a similar sense of style who are notified every time a seller drops a price or adds a new item. Threadflip also absorbs the cost of any purchase over $100 found to be falsely advertised in any way. Shop Hers has a patent-pending "Style Soul Mates" algorithm that places buyers and sellers into sub communities based on style similarities. Closely curated to feel like the Vintage gold ultimate downtown-mid-twentiesearrings, 1$ girl's closet. It operates with a unique site currency and gives new users a starting balance to hit the ground running. It's a hybrid luxury designer consignment and flash sale site. Simple, easy-to-browse site that combines a highly-curated online selection with a sporadic brick-andmortar presence in the form of popup shops. Tradesy functions as a marketplace Charter Club that is open to all brands, plus there's summer Ta specialized wedding shop. Users shirt, $3.50. can also curate a personalized style feed based on favorite designers and clothing sizes to cut down on browsing time. Founded Origin Price Segment What makes it different Tradesy Company Michael Kors, Thakoon, Jil Sander, Band of Outsiders. Hermès brown Alaïa, Hermès, crocodile Kelly, Chanel, Oscar $6,600. de la Renta. Hermès matte crocodile Birkin, $54,999. Upload pictures (helpful guide to taking selfies included) and set suggested pricing for submission to the site's editors. Submit items to The RealReal for consideration either by shipping them in or by using their free pickup service, available in major US cities. Inspection, photography and pricing is controlled by The RealReal. Sellers are chosen on a referral basis only. Sellers upload images and set price based on a suggested amount given. Tradesy professionally cleans the main image and when the item sells, the site sends the seller a pre-paid shipping kit. If the item is returned, the seller is not responsible for refunding the buyer unless the item has been misrepresented. Photograph and submit your luxury designer item for consideration (images will be professionally cleaned for actual sale) or utilize the concierge service for a 35% commission. Upload photographs and descriptions of items for submission. If accepted, Vaunte sets the price, professionally photographs the item, and ships it to the buyer upon purchase. Upload pictures and set your own price via the web uploader or Threadflip app. The "White Glove" pre-paid shipping and listing service is offered for a 40% commission. Dior, Marc Sellers upload images and set a Jacobs, Lanvin, price, or send the item to Shop Givenchy. Hers and have them do the listing and shipping for a steeper 35% transaction fee. Rachel Comey, Dolce Vita, Nasty Gal, bygone designer and fast fashion collabs. Balenciaga, Fendi, Jason Wu, J Brand. Alexander Wang, Loeffler Randall, Mink Pink, Reformation. Old Navy, Opening Ceremony, Cartier and everything in between. Brands you can How the selling process works expect to find Hermès Birkin, Everything $18,000. from Wet Seal and Chinese Laundry to Yves Saint Laurent and Dior. Van Cleef & Arpels necklace, $19,800. Versace handbag, 3999$ Takat Gems emerald and diamond ring, $5,025. Burberry Prorsum original studded leather Knight satchel, $900. Ladies' Rolex, $61,995. Highest priced item for sale If buying, this site is best for.. Up to 40% 25% Getting to shop the closets of selected "influencers," including Charlotte Ronson, Elettra Wiedemann and Julia Restoin Roitfeld. Satisfying picky shoppers. 20% Unique vintage/ handmade finds alongside staple goods from the likes of Forever 21, Gap, and J.Crew. 18% Finding real luxury designer steals (like these $65 Prada kitten heels) with minimal scrolling. 0% A sharply curated, budget friendly selection of high and low designers. 40% Widest selection of luxury designer merchandise. Undisclosed, as Sharply-discounted the selling indie designer process is goods. private and based on referral. 9% The trendster whose closet is constantly refreshing itself. Percentage of sale charged as commission Knowing your items will be well presented. Accepting a wide variety of designer merchandise. Accepting the parts of your closet that got hit hard during your DIY phase. Getting excess designer goods off your hands quickly and cheaply. Making sure your items don't get lost in an overwhelming sea of products. Those looking for an easy, "hands-off" consignment process. Excellent networkers. Those looking for a place that accepts any brand (in good condition). If selling, this site is best for.. Case Overview Fashion Resale Platforms in the United States! Original Newsletter from The Reformation, April 13 2015:! Subscribe 129 Share Past Issues Translate RSS THEREFORMATION.COM update subscription preferences | unsubscribe from this list | view this email in your browser 130 ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! 131
