- The Moscow Times
Transcription
- The Moscow Times
| | Since 1992 No. 5754 May looking back 12–18 | 2016 WWW.THEMOSCOW TIMES.COM looking forward living here The Sole Victor Enemy at the Gates Aftermath of Defeat The Kremlin has come up with NATO’s new commander will be The Bolotnoye prisoners are trying Russia is the only winner → Page 3 and hostile Russia → Page 4 ordeal isn’t over → Pages 12-13 a new World War II narrative — tasked with deterring a resurgent to get back to normal life, but the Trump is running for U.S. president. Should we all be scared? → Page 5 18+ The Decline Of Russia’s Goodfellas Europe begins a crackdown on moneylaundering and shady business → Pages 6, 11 2 Looking Back In April, Russians spent more than half of their monthly income on food products, for the first time since 2008. The Moscow Times No. 5754 3.1M “It is impossible to develop further today, the entire industry is now talking about one thing: no matter what we produce, we have no consumer. The consumption decreases. This is the biggest problem.” Olga Golodets, deputy prime minister. Russians fell below the poverty line in 2015. Searching for a Solution By Anastasia Bazenkova [email protected] | Twitter: @a_bazenkova S tuck in a second year of recession and facing a long period of economic stagnation, Russian officials are searching hard for ways to stimulate growth. On May 25, a presidential economic council will convene for the first time in three years. According to presidential aide Andrei Belousov, it aims to achieve stable 4 percent annual growth before the end of the decade. If that target is missed, Belousov warned, Russia’s tax base will stagnate and its infrastructure will degrade. Moreover, he told the Vedomosti newspaper, “without new investment, social infrastructure will degenerate and social dissatisfaction will grow.” Russia’s economy has suffered from the collapse of oil prices in 2014. Analysts say the country needs deep structural reform to avoid a lengthy period of stagnation. The council meeting will discuss a cocktail of measures to locate new sources of growth. Putin will listen to Economic Development Minister Alexei Ulyukayev and hear a report by the Center for Strategic Research, a think tank recently headed by respected former finance minister Alexei Kudrin. “All participants agree that the growth target can be hit after 2018, and some even say sooner,” Belousov told Vedomosti. One proposal to be heard at the council a tax break on capital investment, which was proposed by Putin last year. Increased state funding for infrastructure projects and exports is MAXIM STULOV / VEDOMOSTI A presidential economic council aims to help the nation climb out of crippling stagnation. Presidential aide Andrei Belousov thinks Russia is capable of 4 percent economic growth after 2018. also on the list of options, as well as programs to subsidized lending to business. Another measure is wage restraint. A new economic outlook written by the Economic Development Ministry and obtained by Kommersant, a newspaper, proposes to hold down salaries for the next two years to stimulate growth. Any government move to limit public sector pay would be echoed by private employers, said Valery Mironov, an economist at Moscow’s Higher School of Economics. This would potentially increase company profits, improve the competitiveness of Russian exports and allow the government to save money. But would come at a price. Real incomes have been shrinking more than a year. The ministry said its move would see wages fall a The Moscow Times No. 5754 (18) further 2.8 percent this year and 0.3 percent in 2017 in real terms. It said the value of pensions would decrease by 4.8 percent this year and by 2 percent in 2017. That would raise poverty levels, already their highest in nearly a decade. It may also worsen a slump in consumer spending that could nullify any positive effect on growth. “Such measures are not humane and even harmful to the economy,” Sergei Afontsev, economist at the Moscow State Institute of International Relations. Meanwhile, small business, which are the engine of many Western economies, are having a tough time. Last year saw criminal investigations into businesses rise to their highest level in half a decade, according to a report prepared by Russia’s business ombudsmen, Boris Titov and seen by the RBC news agency. Such investigations are often a sham used to dismantle and redistribute businesses. The report said the number of tax probes increased 62 percent least year, while the conviction rate fell 15 percent. Sergei Afontsev, an economist at the Moscow State Institute of International Relations, says the flurry of ideas around the presidential council meeting has much to do with conjuring faster growth in time for presidential elections in 2018, when Putin could seek a fourth term. Four percent growth should be possible, he says, but “the methods offered so far don’t offer any cause for enthusiasm.” TMT May 12 – 18, 2016 — Editor-in-Chief Mikhail Fishman Production Manager Igor Grishin Advertising Director Maria Kamenskaya [email protected] Director Elena Stepanova © Copyright 2016, The Moscow Times. All Rights Reserved. This publication is registered by the Federal Service for Media Law Compliance and Cultural Heritage, ПИ No. ФС77-62664 — Founder and publisher OOO Moscowtimes — Founder’s, publisher’s and editorial address 3 Polkovaya Ul., Bldg. 1, Moscow 127018 Editorial telephone +7 (495) 234 3223 Fax +7 (495) 232 6529 Advertising Sales telephone +7 (495) 232 4774 Fax +7 (495) 232 1764 Distribution telephone +7 (495) 232 1750 Internet www.themoscowtimes.com — The views expressed in the opinion columns do not necessarily reflect the position of The Moscow Times. — Любое воспроизведение материалов или их фрагментов на любом языке возможно только с письменного разрешения редакции. — Время подписания в печать по графику 19:30, фактическое 19:42. Заказ № 161055. — Отпечатано в ООО «Первый полиграфический комбинат», 143405, Московская область, Красногорский район, п/о «Красногорск-5», Ильинское шоссе, 4 км — Тираж 55 000 Цена свободная — Cover illustration by Galina Gubchenko Armenia’s Diplomatic Brinkmanship Over Nagorno-Karabakh I n the early hours of April 2, the long dormant Nagorno-Karabakh conflict erupted as Azeri forces launched a military offensive. The brief, but intense, four-day war revealed the volatility of this so-called “frozen” Karabakh conflict. From a military perspective, the scale of the Azeri offensive was as unexpected as it was unprecedented. In a well-coordinated attack, Azeri units targeted three different areas along an entrenched and deeply fortified front line separating the Armenian forces of Nagorno-Karabakh from Azerbaijan. The most serious since the 1994 cease-fire, the clashes demonstrated a new Azeri military strategy, aimed to seize and secure territory by attacking and altering the status quo of an entrenched Armenian defensive perimeter. Despite a serious counterattack by Armenian defenders, which retook nearly all positions lost in the initial assault, the Azeri side successfully demonstrated an enhanced combat capacity and initially out-gunned the Karabakh defenders. With the purchase and procurement of modern offensive weapon systems, largely from Russia, the recent combat was markedly different than the 1990s war. The conflict’s new diplomatic context holds the widest and most serious implications. The Azeri side has reached a tipping point, losing patience for diplomacy and peace talks — preferring the force of arms to resolve the conflict. The Russian-brokered cessation of recent hostilities reaffirmed the death of the fragile 1994 cease-fire. The oral agreement, reached in Moscow on the fourth and final day of fighting, was an agreement to cease firing, but not a cease-fire agreement. Looking ahead, the real challenge stems from the imperative to return to basic diplomacy, focusing not on conflict resolution, but on diplomatic engagement to restore calm and rebuild an effective cease-fire. Such diplomacy is now driven by Russia and backed by its influence. The cessation of hostilities agreement was both announced in Moscow and attained by Moscow. However, as primary arms supplier to both Armenia and Azerbaijan, Russia’s role as mediator will be neither easy nor unchallenged. The challenge for Russia stems not from Western opposition, but from its strategic partner Armenia. Amid a deep and widening crisis in Armenian-Russian relations, Moscow will have to steer carefully and tread delicately. For Yerevan, the crisis represents deepening dissatisfaction — not with the relationship itself, but over the unequal terms of the strategic partnership. For many Armenians, this crisis marked a culmination in frustration with an asymmetrical and disrespectful alliance, further exacerbated by the sense of betrayal by Russia, which sold the weapons used by Azerbaijan against Karabakh. Russian Prime Minister Dmitry Medvedev only inflamed tensions when, during a visit to Armenia only days after the fighting, reaffirmed Russian plans to continue selling arms to Azerbaijan. Medvedev stressed that this was no longer a simple business transaction, but representative of a new policy of Cold War-style deterrence by seeking to balance both sides with Russian weapons. This has triggered a new display of diplomatic brinkmanship by Armenia, marked by two distinct demonstrations. The By Richard Giragosian Director of the Regional Studies Center (RSC), an independent think tank in Yerevan, Armenia first was of Armenian independence, with the dispatch of senior Armenian military officials to a meeting with NATO, aimed at reminding Moscow that Yerevan has options beyond an institutionalized role as a supplicant state for Russia. The second Armenian display of diplomatic brinkmanship was far more innovative: the threat to recognize the independence of Nagorno-Karabakh. On May 5 the Armenian Cabinet adopted a motion, calling on Armenia to formally extend diplomatic recognition of Nagorno-Karabakh as an independent republic. This was a bid to garner leverage and wield diplomatic pressure on mediators as well as Azerbaijan, especially as any such recognition would irrevocably collapse the peace process. Yet, this was also designed to pressure Moscow, which is seen as dangerously shifting away from Yerevan and closer to Baku. Despite the audacity of this gambit, it remains unlikely that Armenia will recognize Karabakh. Because diplomatic leverage rests on the threat of recognition, Armenian policy remains prudently cautious. With few bargaining chips and limited options in Armenian foreign policy, recognition would only come as a policy response to further and future Azeri aggression. Nevertheless, the outlook for the Karabakh conflict remains bleak, as the absence of real deterrence means that nothing is preventing Azerbaijan from launching another offensive. This also suggests that as the Karabakh and Armenian forces are the only effective deterrent for renewed hostilities, any future Russian arms sales to Azerbaijan will surely do demonstrable damage to the already strained Armenian-Russian relationship. TMT SOFIA MIROYEDOVA CEASE-FIRE NEGOTIATIONS Looking Back May 12 – 18, 2016 21 “Victory is a formidable warning to those who would like to test our endurance.” President Vladimir Putin. > 500,000 The brand new military transport air jet il-76Md was shown for the first time in this year’s victory day parade. foreign leaders attended Russia’s victory day in 2010. 3 took part in the “immortal Regiment” march across Moscow, a new record. ‘Yes, We Can Do It Again’ By Mikhail Fishman [email protected] T housands of soldiers marched through Red Square on May 9 to commemorate the 71st anniversary of victory over Nazi Germany. Though not as ambitious as last year’s 70th jubilee, this year’s Victory Day parade was designed to showcase the growing importance of the Soviet victory in World War II — and that of Russian military force — in Russia’s current global agenda. The newly-created Military Space forces, the National Guard and female soldiers participated in the parade for the first time this year. Intercontinental ballistic missiles, 135 tanks and military vehicles, including Russia’s newest S-400 anti-aircraft missile systems rolled through the city’s streets and across the square. Seventy-one aircraft — including Sukhoi jets recently returned from Syria — flew overhead. It has been six years since Russia’s World War II allies — the United States, Britain and France — sent troops to march alongside the Russian military on Red Square and German Chancellor Angela Merkel stood on the podium with Russian leaders. This would be hard to imagine today. After Russia’s annexation of the Crimean Peninsula in 2014, Russia was expelled from the G8 and NATO has been increasing its military presence along Russian borders in Eastern Europe (see article, page 4), a move to deter Russia from moving forces into neighboring NATO states. Western leaders were not invited to Red Square this year. In his annual address, President Vladimir Putin didn’t mention Soviet allies, but said that Soviet soldiers were the ones to have brought freedom to other nations. According to political analyst Yevgeny Minchenko, Putin’s message was that the Russian nation could have ended the war all by itself, without its allies’ help. The only foreign leader to stand alongside Putin on Red Square was Kazakh President Nursultan Nazarbayev, who was treated as a true ally and special guest at the ceremonial recep- kReMliN pReSS SeRvice Russia now sees itself as the only conqueror of Nazi Germany and uses this vision as a source of guidance and energy. Cadets of the Baltic Naval Institute march during the Victory Day parade through Red Square on May 9, 2016. tion in the Kremlin, following the parade. At the same reception, Putin said: “Victory is a formidable warning to those who would like to test our endurance. Victory in World War II demonstrated Russia’s pride and readiness to defend the country’s interests.” As if in accordance with such statements, Russian weapons were paraded through territories which have recently seen an intensified Russian military presence. The Russian Black Sea Fleet lined up in Sevastopol Bay, with dozens of armored vehicles and hardware joining nearby on Crimean territory. A smaller version of Moscow’s parade took place on Russia’s Khmeimim air base in Latakia, Syria, together with members of Syrian President Bashar Assad’s army. It was the first time in recent history that Russia’s Victory Day parade expanded beyond its national borders. This was to demonstrate that, despite the economic crisis, Russia is more militarily competent than before, says Minchenko. Victory Day remains the main national holiday, and, under the influence of state propaganda, its importance has only grown. Over the last two years, Russian propaganda has widely applied the World War II narrative to military developments in Ukraine. The new Ukrainian government has been compared to Nazi hit squads and portrayed as the direct political heirs of the Nazis’ wartime cohorts in Ukraine. Now, following such direction, Russians increasingly treat Victory Day as a source of glory, energy and guidance. The increasingly popular slogan “We can do it again,” often seen plastered across car windows, refers back to soviet victory in World War II, and forward to new tensions with the West. However, when it comes to officially defining the enemy, the war narrative falls apart. In his speech on May 9, Putin said — in a somewhat contradictory manner, according to Minchenko — the new enemy, or “new Nazism,” is not the West, but the global threat of terror. In order to fight terrorism, Putin said, Russia is ready to unite efforts with all nations to “form a modern, non-aligned system of global security.” In fact, rhetorically, the Kremlin is not pushing forward, but retreating from its recent aggressive anti-Western stance, says political analyst Vladimir Frolov. The West has been invited to cooperate, but the offer is so vague that it will most certainly fail to garner a response. “Though areas of real cooperation do exist, the Kremlin doesn’t give a hint — as if intentionally — what form this new security system could take in practice,” says Frolov. But the message — which looks ambiguous and amorphous to Western onlookers and policy-makers — is understood clearly within Russia: Russia is ready to use force against its enemy, wherever such an enemy may be. “We protected our country against Nazism before. Now we will protect it against extremism,” reads a banner on a Moscow bus, as though there is hardly any difference between the two. The banner does not state that under Russian law, almost any controversial or remonstrative observation can be treated as extremism. That’s understood. TMT 4 Looking Forward The Moscow Times No. 5754 38 “[Scaparrotti is] unhappy because Russia has dared to revive itself.” Konstantin Kosachyov, foreign affairs chair, Federation Council. Years of army service by Curtis Scaparrotti “One of the key takeaways is that he is an army general. There is a danger if you pick someone else, the Russians think you are only concerned with air or sea war.” Ilan Berman, vice president of The American Foreign Policy Council. Changing of the Guard By Matthew Bodner [email protected] | Twitter: @mattb0401 New NATO Commander Curtis Scaparrotti signifies final step in combat readiness. GeerT VANdeN WijNGAerT / AP C urtis Scaparrotti, a U.S. Army General, is no stranger to tension. For the past three years, he has been the Pentagon’s senior officer on the Korean Peninsula. There, Scaparrotti was responsible for commanding U.S. forces deployed along the world’s most notorious flashpoint, the demilitarized zone separating a flourishing South Korea from its unpredictable and potentially hostile neighbor to the north. Now the head of NATO forces in Europe, he will face a growing military divide between east and west. Attempts by Russia and NATO to reestablish dialogue have failed, close encounters between military forces occur on an almost weekly basis, and distrust is driving military buildup along borders. Scaparrotti replaces U.S. Air Force General Philip Breedlove, who, over the past two years, has worked to reinvigorate the alliance in the face of what is seen as a resurgent Russian threat to NATO’s eastern members. A career infantryman, he will be tasked with completing his predecessor’s efforts to restore NATO to war-capable footing. “A resurgent Russia [is] striving to project itself as a world power,” Scaparrotti said after being sworn in on May 4. NATO also faces threats from the migrant crisis and international terrorism. “To address these challenges, we must continue to maintain and enhance our levels of readiness and our agility in the spirit of being able to fight tonight if deterrence fails.” The message rang loud in Moscow, where officials have spent the past two years bickering in the media with Breedlove, a proponent of greater military deterrence against Russia. Russian media outlets frequently held the bombastic Breedlove responsible for tensions between Russia and the West. Russian officials began immediately painting Scaparrotti in the same light. State Duma foreign affairs chairman Alexei Pushkov said the new NATO commander had already surpassed Breedlove in warmongering, and other officials said he is simply upset that Russia has the audacity to stand up for its interests. While this rhetoric has been rehashed ad nauseum over the Curtis M. Scaparrotti, commander of NATO’s Supreme Headquarters Allied Powers Europe past two years, Scaparrotti’s arrival coincides with the final stages of NATO’s efforts to reinvigorate itself, with an eye on protecting its members to the east from potential attack by Russia. This has been a common theme on the NATO side since March 2014, and efforts are expected to crescendo at the NATO summit in Warsaw this summer. The Ukraine crisis has already seen the command authority of the NATO supreme commander increase, giving the official greater room to maneuver during the early moments of any conceivable conflict with Russia. This was an initiative pushed by Breedlove as part of the alliance’s efforts to present a stronger deterrence to any potential Russian moves on a NATO member. “Scaparrotti’s biggest challenge will be how to respond to Russia, and Russian subversion, short of military force,” says Ilan Berman, vice president of the American Foreign Policy Council, a Washington think tank. “Its not something that NATO has a clear strategy to address, and as a result there is a fragmentation of political opinion within the alliance.” Meanwhile, the alliance has bolstered the size of forces available to its supreme commander if fighting breaks out. Already, the United States has deployed around 4,000 troops and an armored brigade to eastern Europe, and proposals to double that force — at the insistence of nations like Poland — will be on the agenda in Warsaw in July. The Pentagon is also planning to add an additional permanent battalion in Europe to augment Washington’s forces in Germany and Italy. In the weeks leading up to Scaparrotti’s arrival in Europe, the U.S. military has been debating sending an additional 4,000 troops to Eastern Europe to deter Russia. “But the underlying weaknesses have not really changed,” Berman said. “No one is throwing more money at NATO, and there are a lot of uncertainties — like the Brexit threat.” In recent weeks, Russian warplanes have flown what the United States has characterized as highly provocative maneuvers near U.S. ships and aircraft patrolling the Black Sea. Scaparrotti said at his induction ceremony that he wants to reopen lines of communication with Russia to prevent these incidents from sparking unintended conflict, but efforts last month to reinvigorate communication between Russia and NATO failed. Russia has instead responded to NATO’s troop movements in Eastern Europe with promises to deploy 30,000 men to its western flank. Moscow’s acts of resolve will likely only intensify if Scaparrotti makes good on his proposals to arm Ukraine with heavier weapons to defend itself from Russian aggression. Such moves would be seen by the Kremlin as yet another instance of the West meddling in its historic backyard. While he is not expected to begin launching a series of new initiatives right off the bat, he is ensuring continuity in NATO’s reform efforts in the wake of Breedlove’s departure. As both sides continue to dig in and the rhetoric continues to sizzle, Scaparrotti’s experience in Korea may become increasingly relevant. TMT The Baltic Balance of Power $54 Bln* Russia Budget $253 Bln (spending in Europe in 2015) NATO 8 320 April 18: A Sukhoi Su-27 intercepted and performed a barrel roll over a U.S. surveillance aircraft in international airspace over the Baltic Sea. Aircraft Russia Latvia Sweden 14,450 65,000 0 55 April 11: A pair of Sukhoi Su-24 fighter-bombers buzzed U.S. destroyer the Donald Cook at extremely close range about 70 kilometers off of Kaliningrad, not far from the Polish port of Gdynia. Soldiers 3** 750 Tanks April 12: A pair of Ka-27 helicopters approached and flew circles around U.S. destroyer the Donald Cook, allegedly taking photos and conducting simulated attacks. Lithuania Ships Russia Belarus Poland * Russia’s overall 2015 defense budget (3.3 trillion rubles), converted at the average 2015 exchange rate ** United States is planning to deploy 250 armored vehicles to Eastern Europe *** Seven Northern Fleet submarines could be summoned in the event of conflict NATO force figures apply to permanently stationed troops as of 2015. The actual number of NATO forces in the Baltic fluctuates as member states rotate planes, ships, and other hardware in and out of the region for patrols and exercises. Increases to NATO strength in the region will be discussed at the alliance summit in Warsaw in July. Sources: International Institute of Strategic Studies, NATO 2*** Submarines 0 Looking Forward $25M Campaign donations raised by Donald Trump “I know that [Putin]’s someone that you must continually stand up to, like many bullies.” Hillary Rodham Clinton, democratic candidate May 3 5 When an election between Donald Trump and Hillary Clinton was all but certain. MARIA ZAIKINA “[Trump] says he wants to proceed to other level of relationship with Russia. Of course, we welcome it.” President Vladimir Putin May 12 – 18, 2016 Breaking Democracy’s Morals The Trump phenomenon makes U.S. politics look more like those of Europe. Op-Ed by Maria Lipman Editor-in-chief, Counterpoint journal, published by George Washington University A s Donald Trump has risen from a remote contender to the presumptive Republican presidential nominee, the U.S. media commentary has been an unending flow of dismay, despair, anxiety and anger. Some commentators rather desperately discussed possible ways to prevent Trump from winning the nomination, but this proved meaningless when Trump won the Indiana primaries on May 3, and his remaining competitors withdrew from the race. Now the focus of the media analysis is shifting toward “Can he win?” the presidency. While some of those who abhor a possible Trump victory try not to give in to fear, and claim that the Democratic party is built to defeat Trump or even forecast that 2016 will be a year of “Democratic routs,” others find at least several reasons why November might bring on a “Trumpocalypse.” Since hardly anyone predicted Trump’s current triumph, nobody can rule out another surprise — Trump becoming president of the United States. What does it mean for Russia? Politically, not too much. U.S. foreign policy has more constants than variables, and whoever wins the presidency will not have much freedom of maneuver — he or she will have to honor the existing alliances and obligations and will be unable to ignore powerful domestic interests or dominant ideas about the U.S. preeminence in the world. As for Russia, U.S.-Russian relations are defined, in the words of Andrej Krickovic and Yuval Weber, by a “fundamental disagreement about the genesis of the current world order.” The United States regards Russia as “a revisionist power bent on overturning the established order and challenging the U.S. global leadership.” While in Russia anything short of tough anti-Americanism is regarded as unacceptable concession, in the United States, a softer Russia policy is seen as inadmissible appease- ment. In Russia, the United States of President Barack Obama is perceived as our main enemy, but at home Obama is often criticized for being too soft on Russia. Any future administration, Krickovic and Weber write, will face strong pressure from both political parties to harden its Russia line. Hillary Clinton will hardly resist this pressure. Although she served as Secretary of State during the bygone era of the Obama “reset” of relations with Russia, she is anything but an appeaser. Rather, she is a hawk, not averse to using military interventions as a foreign-policy means. It is true that Trump has made occasional overtures to President Vladimir Putin, and indeed mentioned that he would improve relations with Russia — “from a position of strength” — which can hardly be music to Putin’s ears. But one should not take these statements any more seriously than Trump’s declared intention to build a wall on the U.S.Mexican border or make U.S. allies pay for the U.S. military presence in their countries. But if this year’s presidential race in the United States does not matter too much for Russia in practical political terms, Trump’s unexpected success is certainly important for us from a political-cultural standpoint. Only eight years ago, the United States was celebrating an amazing national accomplishment: The election of an AfricanAmerican for president seemed to prove that the nation — if not fully, then at least in a very significant way — had overcome the legacy of slavery, followed by formal and then informal racial discrimination. Despite setbacks along the way, U.S. history could be seen as a progressive advance from Abraham Lincoln’s mid-19th-century line about a “government of the people, by the people, for the people” to the abolition of the poll tax about 100 years later which finally granted voting rights to all adult citizens. Theoretically speaking, in a universal democracy all the citizens are involved in making decisions about their country’s affairs. In practice, however, decision-making is delegated to a small minority — the political elite that speaks and acts on people’s behalf, but does not reflect the broad diversity of voters. Campaigning, the art of attracting and accommodating various constituencies, has evolved as a highly sophisticated, complex and costly industry. It helps promising political contenders reach out to their potential supporters and persuade them that he or she is the best person to serve the public, but also marginalize unwanted influences and politically unwelcome views. The competition between parties and candidates is fierce, and, especially in recent years, U.S. society has grown more polarized. Still, this competition has remained within the established framework of moral propriety — so anybody appealing to ugly, xenophobic sentiments, whether racist, sexist, homophobic or otherwise would be defeated at early stages. In retrospect it looks almost inevitable that one day somebody would break the unspoken ban and reach out to those constituencies which had never subscribed to the language and values of the establishment, and had been skillfully marginalized by professional campaign specialists. This year, it happened. Donald Trump tapped into the unappealing sentiments of those who felt excluded, disenfranchised and resentful. His success is due in large part to offensive language: opting for openly nativist rhetoric, aggressively attacking “non-Americans,” Mexicans, Muslims, as well as women. In the Russia of the 1990s, when we still had competitive politics, Vladimir Zhirinovsky played a similar trick. With his unabashedly nationalistic, aggressive language he won the support of those who felt deeply disappointed and disenfranchised by the new, democratic government. On the televised election night a shocked liberal intellectual Yury Karyakin exclaimed “Russia, come to your senses! You’re out of your mind!” Despite the long history of institutionalized democracy in the United States, these days many progressive, liberal Americans seem to feel the same way as they realize that their democracy no longer has a bulwark against nativist, xenophobic politics. The Trump phenomenon makes U.S. democracy look more like that of Europe where nativist politicians have gained considerable success in recent years. It is also a disturbing realization to those Russian liberals who tend to blame ugly public sentiments and loathsome politics on state dominance and aggressive government propaganda. TMT 6 Russian Tales “The criminal organization headed by Petrov managed to achieve a clear penetration of the state structures of his country,” say Spanish prosecutors. The Moscow Times No. 5754 12 Russians wanted by Spanish authorities. $30M “This criminalized elite wanted to enjoy the opportunities of being Europeans while stealing with impunity back within Russia.” Mark Galeotti. spent by Russian tax fraudsters in London, according to Bill Browder. Closing the Gangster Playground By Peter Hobson [email protected], Twitter: @peterhobson15 | Illustration by Galina Gubchenko A series of high-profile cases against Russian organized crime in Europe suggest that authorities might at last be cracking down. I n early May, the moves came thick and fast. In Portugal, police swooped on a Russian criminal network that bought control of struggling lower-league football clubs and used them to launder millions of euros. Meanwhile, in London, hedge fund boss turned campaigner Bill Browder presented evidence to British members of parliament that $30 million stolen in one of Russia’s most high profile frauds had passed through the country’s banks. The money was from a tax scam uncovered by Russian lawyer Sergei Magnitsky, who was imprisoned and died in jail in 2009. It was spent, Browder said, on private jets, elite school fees, lavish houses and designer dresses in Britain. As Browder laid out his story, it was revealed that a Spanish judge had issued arrest orders for 12 Russians, including several current and former government officials. The warrant was part of Europe’s biggest probe into Russian organized crime. Investigators say Gennady Petrov, a gangster from St. Petersburg, plowed money into Spanish real estate that came from contract killings, arms and drug trafficking, extortion and kidnapping. They claim Petrov was the center of a money-laundering cabal that reached the top levels of Russian officialdom. The events revealed the extent to which Russian organized crime has penetrated Europe. They also suggest that European authorities might be mobilizing against it. Expansion Gennady Petrov fled Russia two decades ago. A heavyset bruiser who had climbed to the top of the criminal ladder in St. Petersburg while Vladimir Putin was a deputy mayor, he moved to Spain after losing ground to a rival gang. He was not alone. Spain in the 1990s and early 2000s was “a kind of playground for organized crime figures … nice climate, and weak law enforcement,” says Mark Galeotti, an expert in Russian organized crime and security services. Crime figures also spread to Israel, Cyprus and Germany. In the French Riviera, Russian criminals laundered suitcases full of cash through the property sector while bribing local politicians and judges to look the other way. By the 2000s, Europe’s police agency, Europol, was calling the Baltic States the “northeast criminal hub.” London attracted a different crowd. These were the businessmen and political figures whose wealth could withstand at least a cursory probing of its sources. Euan Grant, an expert on transnational crime, calls these people “politically-protected looters.” Organized crime had blossomed in Russia in the 1990s as state authority broke down. Under Putin, who became president at the end of the decade, the melding of the state and criminal networks was institutionalized, says Galeotti. No state employee lives off their salary alone. Instead, a culture of cronyism developed where personal connections were used to dole out favors and no one is truly clean. Even Defense Minster Sergei Shoigu, a career official regarded as one of the less corrupt members of the government, was found by anti-corruption activists last year to have a lavish, pagoda-style mansion near Moscow allegedly worth $18 million. Spanish Mafia When Russian businessmen and gangsters moved overseas, they took their personal connections with them. The Spanish investigation into Gennady Petrov appears to provide a snapshot into the system’s workings. Continued on Page 11 → 7 Weekly round-up of all that’s new, delicious and fun in Moscow. “We forget what our ancestors actually ate just 150-200 years ago,” says Sergei Morozov. He and his wife Anna own both the food stall and new café. NIKOLA-LENIVETS Out & About May 12 – 18, 2016 Ferma Nikola-Lenivets By Andrei Muchnik [email protected] T he latest addition to Danilovsky market’s expanding food court is Ferma NikolaLenivets (Nikola-Lenivets farm). Last fall it started life as a humble vegetable stall, but this spring sees it blossom into a full-blown café. The café operates on a farm-to-table philosophy, promoting organic products and a seasonal, healthy menu. The actual farm is located near Nikola-Lenivets, a pastoral retreat where the bohemian Archstoyanie Land Art Festival has taken place for the last decade. This rustic ethos has also influenced the design — long wooden benches jostle for space with several artistic structures From farm to table at Danilovsky market crafted at the settlement’s creative workshops. Owners Sergei and Anna Morozov say that they “only feed people what we grow ourselves.” Sergei is a former rock musician while Anna studied public relations. They decided to explore their roots and moved to a village near Nikola-Lenivets where they owned a plot of land. In many ways, a labor of love became a profession. When Archstoyanie began gaining popularity, the Morozovs opened a salad bar at their farm to offer hungry festival-goers a healthy food alternative. The farming community in Nikola-Lenivets is close-knit, and the Morozovs source their meat and cheese from neighboring Grant’s Farm. The Morozovs profess an interest in historic Russian cuisine and pre-revolutionary recipes, such as “telnoye” — pike cutlet — (400 rubles) or the millet breakfast porridge with prunes and garlic (100 rubles). Another rediscovered dish is the delicious chicken pate (350 rubles), a fresh take on a recipe published by the tsar’s family in 1853. Other noteworthy menu choices include the one-minute steak (500 rubles) which is complimented by traditional fried potatoes with onions and mushrooms (200 rubles). Lighter options include purple carrot and baked pumpkin salad (150 rubles) or croutons with sun dried tomatoes and homemade cheese (150 rubles). Accompany your meal with their speciality cranberry drink (100 rubles) or Ivan Chai herbal tea (50 rubles). The menu changes regularly as the focus is on fresh, seasonal dishes. If you live in Moscow but yearn for a taste of the countryside, you’ll enjoy this eatery and its earthy, lovingly-sourced fare. TMT +7 (966) 014 1664 facebook.com/KafeFermaNikola 74 Ulitsa Mytnaya Metro Tulskaya LETO BARKAS CUTFISH MS. DONAIR NEWS & OPENINGS Cutfish Upscale sushi at Patriarch’s Ponds Ms. Donair Shwarma in the center Barkas Flavorsome food on a boat Leto + 7 (926) 936 7876 facebook.com/cutfishbistro 17 Bolshoi Kozikhinsky Pereulok Metro Tverskaya +7 (495) 625 4221 facebook.com/MsDonair-592912714217934 1 Ulitsa Sretenka Metro Turgenevskaya, Trubnaya +7 (499) 243 3672 facebook.com/barkasmoscow Ukraine Hotel Pier, Naberezhnaya Tarasa Shevchenko Metro Kievskaya +7 (495) 621 0756 facebook.com/cafeleto 119 Prospekt Mira, Bldg. 461 Metro VDNKh Japanese eatery Cutfish offers sushi (from 320 rubles), various soups and a range of grill options (from 490 rubles). The beautifully crafted tuna and salmon rolls are addictive, but leave room for the grilled duck breast. The open kitchen and oriental dragon murals create a lively atmosphere for diners. Everything is high quality, but note that portions are on the smaller and pricier side. Ms. Donair now has two locations in Moscow. Unsurprisingly, both are located in areas with buzzing nightlife. The 24/7 eatery offers a variety of doners with the type of meat and its accompaniments reflected in the nation after which the doner is named. There’s a kebab for everyone — including vegetarians. At just 200 rubles they make the perfect portable snack late-night nibble. Take it and go! Moored behind Hotel Ukraina, Barkas (barge) was founded by television chef Lara Katsova. It specializes in the Ashkenazi cuisine of her hometown Odessa. Try the gefilte fish with horseradish (520 rubles), or fried barabulka (a type of mullet) 570 rubles. There’s also hatzilim (eggplant dip), forshmak (herring salad) and, of course, matzo. Lunch by the water Leto is quite a walk from the VDNKh park entrance, but the view is worth it. Leto (summer) belongs to the restaurant company that owns the cafes Luch and Moloko and serves seasonal fare like shashlik (from 500 to 600 rubles) or traditional svekolnik (cold beet soup) for 300 rubles. The terrace is the perfect place to enjoy a glass of wine on a sunny day. Four pages packed with the best places in Moscow to eat, drink, walk, shop, listen, watch, dance and sightsee. A new walking route and listings every week! Take it, use it, save it! 8 Walking Route The Moscow Times No. 5754 6. New Opera After being refreshed by greenery or perhaps a bite to eat, head over to the largest building within the garden walls, the New Opera. In 1910 the art nouveau Mirror Theater was built for open-air performances. In 1991, it was transferred to the New Opera group, which built a new theater using some elements of the old one. It opened in 1997, and is one of Moscow’s best and most interesting opera venues. It performs classical operas as well as 20th and 21st-century works, hosts festivals, and holds musical events in the magnificent Mirrored Foyer. Stop in for tickets, or to gawk at the beautiful architecture. Then head back out into Moscow’s finest little garden. 3 Karetny Ryad, Bldg. 1 6 5 Ulitsa Karetny Ryad 4 5. Hermitage Garden Keep walking along the street. Where the Moscow Interior Ministry ends, so ends Ulitsa Petrovka. From that point on the street becomes Karetny Ryad (Carriage Row) — named for the carriage and cart repairmen who once plied their trade here. Cross the street and enter a little bit of heaven on earth, the Hermitage Garden. Founded here in 1894, an abandoned property was transformed into a flowering garden and opened in 1895. Here the first “moving pictures” of the Brothers Lumiere were shown in 1896. And here, a few years later, Anton Chekhov’s “Seagull” premiered in the Hermitage Theater — to lackluster reviews, it must be said. Fyodor Chaliapin sang and Sarah Bernhardt performed here. Now it has just about everything you’d want in a city park: outdoor movies, festivals, three theaters, cafes, classes, jazz festivals and skating rinks. Oh, and green lawns, flower gardens and sweet-smelling trees. Stop in and be revived. 3 Karetny Ryad 3 Ulitsa Petrovka From the Old Circus to the New Opera Peaceful Pleasures, Food and Fun On the Boulevards By Michele A. Berdy [email protected] | Illustration by Justyna Holubowska A walk along and around the city center boulevards that begins at a place of fun and ends in a garden of beauty and culture Around the Boulevards 4. Petrovka 38 Turn left on 2nd Kolobovsky Pereulok and walk to Ulitsa Petrovka. Turn right and gaze upon what is officially called the Headquarters of the Moscow Interior Ministry, but usually referred to by its address: Petrovka 38. It’s hard to imagine that this was once a pretty two-story urban manor house owned by the Shcherbatov family. It was gendarme barracks for most of the 19th century, and then the home of the Moscow militia after the 1917 Revolution. Now the address doesn’t just mean the place, it means “Moscow Cops” in general. Note, as you stroll by, the reinstated bust of Felix Dzerzhinsky, founder of the Soviet secret police, in the courtyard. 9 4-hour walk 1 1. Nikulin Circus Take the metro to Tsvetnoi Bulvar, and when you come out on street level turn right onto the boulevard. With nose held high, walk past the glass and cement shopping mall abomination that replaced the beloved, smelly, delicious old Central Market until you see an oddly dressed bronze man by an old car on the sidewalk. This is a statue of the great clown, actor and writer Yury Nikulin, standing in front of the circus he led and starred in for many years. Officially called the Nikulin Circus, it is also just called the “old circus,” which opened in 1880 and for more than a half-century was the only circus in the city. The nicely old-fashioned building introduces new acts and shows every season. Stop in for tickets. 13 Tsvetnoi Bulvar 3rd Kolobovsky Pereulok Tsvetnoi Bulvar 3. Church of the Icon of the Mother of God of the Sign Turn right and walk up Petrovsky Bulvar, a stretch of the boulevard ring, then turn right on 3rd Kolobovsky Pereulok and left on 1st Kolobovsky Pereulok. All these Kolobovsky Pereuloks are named after one of the leaders of the Kremlin guardsmen (streltsy) who lived here in the 17th century, Nikifor Kolobov. Enjoy the mix of architecture on these quiet little streets. On your right you’ll come upon the pretty white Church of the Icon of the Mother of God of the Sign, built in the late 17th century in what is called the “fiery style,” with rows of kokoshniki like tongues of flame that represent the angels, seraphim and other heavenly beings. This church was closed in 1930, restored in the 1970s and 1980s and re-consecrated in the late 1990s. 1 1st Kolobovsky Pereulok, Bldg. 2 2. School of Contemporary Drama Continue down the boulevard to the intersection with another boulevard, Petrovsky Bulvar, and stop to look across the street. On the far corner is a pale blue building with white decorative trim. This is the building of the School for Contemporary Drama, which opened during the heady days of perestroika in 1989 (now under reconstruction after a fire). It is a drama landmark: Here many of the era’s greatest plays have premiered, and events, such as the 70th birthday celebration of writer, singer and songwriter Bulat Okudzhava, have gone down in Russia’s cultural history. But the building is perhaps even more famous for its pre-Revolutionary past as the Hermitage Restaurant, a popular eatery where a French chef named Lucien Olivier invented a salad and named it after himself — his salad Olivier has gone down in Russian cultural and culinary history. 29/14 Neglinnaya Ulitsa Petrovsky Bulvar 2 The Moscow Times No. 5754 Yoga 108 Stretch yourself: 5 places to practice yoga in Moscow Ashtanga Yoga School Moscow Prepare for the burn If you think yoga is all calming relaxation, Ashtanga practice will come as a bit of a shock. A modern form of classical Indian yoga, Ashtanga involves swift, aerobic transitions between yoga positions. You’ll find yourself longing for the final pose “Shavasana” or “corpse pose,” where you lie flat on your back, relax into the floor and feel like you might never have the strength to get up again. Moscow’s Ashtanga school has two studios in prime locations near Mayakovskaya and Teatralnaya. Drop-in classes are 700 rubles or an eight-class pass for the month is 4,100 rubles. Some teachers speak English so inquire when you book. ashtangamoscow.com Various locations PrAnA YogA AshtAngA YogA school A combination of physical exercise and meditative thinking with a focus on emotional well-being, yoga is a unique way to calibrate your mind, body and soul. Whether you are a seasoned yogi or an utter newbie, here is a selection of the best places to practice your chakras in Moscow. Prana Yoga Options galore Prana Yoga gathers the best teachers from different yoga practices under one roof and lets you choose your preferred style. The organization’s 55 daily yoga classes across two studios mean you’re spoiled for choice. With a one-off lesson costing just 400 rubles or a “first steps in yoga course” offering 3 lessons for just 1,000 rubles, there’s no better place for beginners to test the waters. If you’re more experienced, you can opt for a subscription. Eight morning lessons over one month will cost 2,700 rubles. A massive bonus at the Timiryazevskoye branch is the on-site sauna, the perfect guilt-free way to treat yourself after working up a sweat. pranayoga.ru Various locations Professional, friendly and reasonably-priced Yoga 108 focuses on developing the strength and stamina of its students through Hatha yoga practice — otherwise known as standard yoga. Classes are intense and will certainly push you, but the expert teachers are used to working with yogis of all levels so you needn’t feel embarrassed about the state of your downward dog. Classes are held in Russian, but if you let the center know your language preferences when you book your lesson, they can ensure you attend a class where the teacher can speak at least some English. Eight lessons over 30 days costs just 3,600 rubles or a one-off class for you and a group costs 3,000 rubles. There’s no excuse not to grab some friends, squeeze into those yoga pants and limber up. yoga108.com 6/12 starosadsky Pereulok Metro Kitai-gorod Energy Yoga Stress-free stretching Energy Yoga is another studio specializing in Bikram yoga practice. Their stylish — if rather orange — studio is specially equipped to ensure the right levels of oxygen for optimum yoga practice. The center is equipped out with modern, convenient facilities, and on Fridays they hold a special “happy Friday class” for the bargain price of 350 rubles. It’s not quite as fun as a conventional happy hour of course, but it’s certainly a lot healthier for you. Alternatively, if you want to take things a bit more seriously, unlimited classes for one month cost 4,050 rubles for the first month. This goes up to 4,500 rubles after the introductory offer. energyoga.ru 118 Varshavskoye shosse Varshavka sky Business center Metro chertanovskaya, Yuzhnaya BiKrAM YogA MsK YogA 108 Aisyah Jamil, medical student at MGMU “I’ve been to White Rabbit four times and most recently, I tried the tasting menu. It was a remarkable combination of flavors and so beautifully crafted. The view and atmosphere overlooking the city were also spectacular.” EnErgY YogA Out & About frEEPiK.coM 10 Bikram Yoga MSK Get hot and steamy As the name would suggest, Bikram Yoga MSK specializes in Bikram yoga. That is to say, 90 minute classes where you repeat the same series of 26 postures in a room heated to a steamy 40 degrees Celsius. If that sounds — quite literally — like your idea of hell, just think of the health benefits. Sweating rids your body of toxins while the heat gives you a more intense workout and can aid chronic pains like arthritis and backache. Bikram Yoga MSK offers a number of packages, including unlimited sessions from 7,000 rubles per month or a one-off session for 900 rubles. While classes are taught in Russian, many of the teachers either speak some English or are patient enough to break things down for you if you get your asanas in a muddle. bikramyogamsk.ru 19 Pechatnikov Pereulok, Metro trubnaya Russian Tales May 12 – 18, 2016 $1.5Bln “It’s beyond the realm of reason.” Dmitry Peskov on claims that Russian gangsters discussed a house in Spain allegedly owned by Putin. enters Britain unrecorded monthly. Half from Russia. “Without help from Russian law enforcement the Spanish will never prove anything.” Roman Shleinov, Russian journalist. ← Continued from Page 6 Threats DEniS GRiSHkin / VEDomoSTi Russian cash has certainly padded many pockets. Flows of illicit money are difficult to measure. They are also various in nature, ranging from direct proceeds of drug and people trafficking to kickbacks and sweetheart deals. But analysts say tens or even hundreds of billions of dollars have left Russia over the last two decades in criminal schemes. Deutsche Bank last year said $1.5 billion enters Britain each month without being recorded by official statistics. Half of that cash comes from Russia. Russian money has been a boon for real estate agents, lawyers and purveyors of luxury services. But it has also cultivated an extensive network of former government officials and intelligence figures now working at private advisory firms. One such was Conservative Friends of Russia, a lobby group founded in London in 2012 and chaired by Sir Malcolm Rifkind, a former foreign minister. Rifkind was luxury cars were seized in a Spanish raid on the Russian mafia in 2008. Gennady Petrov arrives at Palma’s court on June 14, 2008, accompanied by police officers on the Spanish island of Majorca. Spanish prosecutors say Petrov headed an organized criminal group that penetrated deep into Russia’s political elite. He later absconded to Russia and lives in St. Petersburg. Dani CaRDona / REUTERS In the 1990s, St. Petersburg was practically run by criminals, and Petrov was a big figure. “Everyone knew him,” says Roman Shleinov, a Russian investigative journalist. He had cash to invest and could pull strings in different spheres of government and business. Petrov’s connections extended to Putin’s closest associates. In the late 1990s, Petrov was a shareholder in Bank Rossiya, later described by U.S. officials as the “personal bank for senior [Russian] officials.” But Spanish prosecutors were on to him. They launched an investigation called “Operation Troika” in the late 2000s. Prosecutors tapped hundreds of telephone conversations and examined bank transfers and property transactions. Their report, issued last year, revealed connections between Petrov’s crime group and a wide circle of Russian officials and politicians. Among the senior figures mentioned were former Defense Minister Anatoly Serdyukov, former Prime Minister Viktor Zubkov and current Deputy Prime Minister Dmitry Kozak. Even Putin got a mention in one of the tapped conversations discussing his reported ownership of a house in Spain. The 12 names on the Spanish arrest warrant revealed this month are only slightly less senior. They include Vladislav Reznik, a senior member of parliament, Igor Sobolevsky, a former deputy head of the Investigative Committee, Russia’s equivalent to the FBI, and General Nikolai Aulov, deputy head of the narcotics police. Among the accusations, prosecutors say Reznik helped Petrov get clients appointed to key posts in Russia in exchange for assets in Spain. Aulov, they said, was used to intimidate potential threats to Petrov’s group. The accused have dismissed the claims. Aulov branded them “political.” Kremlin spokesman Dmitry Peskov said the allegations against Putin were “beyond the realm of reason.” But the investigation’s chief prosecutor, Jose Grinda, was convinced he had uncovered the true nature of Russian crime syndicates. According to a U.S. diplomatic cable leaked to WikiLeaks, Grinda told U.S. officials in 2010 that Russian criminal groups operated “hand-in-hand” with the state, whose tactic was to use “organized crime groups to do whatever the government of Russia cannot acceptably do.” These tasks included running guns to clients such as Kurdish militia, he said. In return, the Russian state gives criminal groups support and protection. 23 11 later filmed by Britain’s Channel 4 television boasting he could provide access to “every British ambassador in the world” and offering to use his political connections on behalf of a fake Chinese company for £5,000 a day. “No one wants to kill the golden goose,” says Browder. That is a key reason for lackluster policing. Another is that much of the money looks superficially clean. It has been smuggled through multiple countries and often comes with the stamp of a clever corporate lawyer. Western law enforcement isn’t set up to deal with this, says Grant. “It’s looking for the smoking gun” — something Russian fraudsters are too clever to provide. Crackdown Attitudes may now be changing. Following Moscow’s annexation of Crimea in 2014 and support for Ukrainian separatists, many Western capitals now see Russia as a security threat. More people are worried at the effect of Russian money on Western politics. Grant warns that the penetration of organized crime in the Baltic countries could be catastrophic in a potential national security crisis provoked by Russia. He says Russians connected to state-sanctioned organized crime form a massive quasi-intelligence agency for Russia. They are “political trojan horses,” he says. By spreading their money, they can “undermine morale, compromise officials and weaken Western resolve.” Scandals around the Spanish investigation into Petrov and the poisoning of Alexander Litvinenko in London in 2006 have also shifted public opinion. An enquiry in Litvinenko’s death published this year said Spanish the former Russian spy had given evidence prosecutors to Spanish prosecutors investigating Russian say Vladislav organized crime. Shortly afterward, he was Reznik, a sefed radioactive polonium in an apparently nior member state-sanctioned murder. Outrage over the of the Russian Panama Papers leaks this year is also forcing Duma, helped governments to consider tighter measures Gennady against offshore companies and financial Petrov apcrime. point allies Shifting attitudes to Russia could help into senior vestigators access extra resources, says Galepositions in the Russian otti. More significantly, it means that Westbureaucracy ern security services are now refocusing on in return Russia. These play a major role in monitoring for assets in and action on organized crime. Spain. Few think that a full fledged attack on Russian money is feasible. More likely is “a partial and creeping lockdown,” says Browder. As in Spain and Portugal, individual prosecutors in different countries will investigate and seize Russian property, he says. “The more they do, the more empowered some of the timid ones will get, and this will become a much more wide ranging problem for the Putin regime.” Effect The process will be difficult and slow, says Grant. Russian organized crime networks have had time to deeply embed. Meanwhile, Moscow does not extradite its citizens. And its law enforcement agencies often refuse to aid foreign investigations. Petrov, now 68 and living in St. Petersburg, is unlikely to ever again appear before a Spanish court. That doesn’t mean there are no consequences. Spain has seized property worth tens of millions of euros. Those on Spain’s arrest warrant cannot travel to Spain or any country with which Spain has an extradition treaty. “What this does is bit by bit begins to lock down the outside world to this criminal elite,” says Galeotti. This sort of action goes to the heart of the Putin regime. “This elite regarded globalization as a buffet — that they can enjoy all the opportunities of being Europeans while at the same time maintaining their capacity to steal with impunity back within Russia,” he says. “Now they are finding that this is becoming harder and harder.” When Spanish police raided his properties in 2008, Petrov was living in a 20-million-euro villa in Calvia, a village on the Mediterranean island of Majorca. He had a painting by Salvador Dalí on the wall. Among his neighbors was the sister of King Juan Carlos. A crackdown on criminal groups also raises questions. The omnipresence of crime in Russia means it is often difficult to differentiate between legitimate and illegitimate business. Meanwhile, the entanglement of crime and state also means that every clampdown on a “businessman” or their cash is an attack on the foundations of Russia’s political system, which risks provoking Moscow. However, the drip feed of actions against Russian organized crime continues. In early May, the European Central Bank said it would phase out 500-euro bills, a favorite of gangsters. A week after the Portuguese raids and Spanish arrest warrants, police in London said they had seized $22 million and arrested two men suspected of laundering money for a Russian gang. To be truly effective, however, action has to be coordinated, with tighter regulation and information shared across jurisdictions. If not, it will amount to “squeezing the balloon,” says Galeotti — where pressure in Spain and Portugal merely moves the money to France and Greece. Despite encouraging signs, such continent wide measures seem a long way off. TMT 12 Living Here The Moscow Times No. 5754 35 People are still being charged in connection with the Bolotnoye protest. The last person to be detained was Maxim Panfilov in April. He has been charged with snatching a helmet off a policeman’s head four years ago. have been charged to date as part of the “Bolotnoye case.” 49% “He has a more hopeless view on [the situation in Russia] — Life in Russia is a prison.” Tatyana Barabanova, mother of Andrei Barabanov. of votes were won in 2011 by the United Russia Party, accused of vote-rigging. Life After Bolotnaya By Eva Hartog [email protected] | Twitter: @EvaHartog Ilya Gushchin National Democratic Party member, Psychology student, Sports analyst at Moskva football club Detained Feb. 7, 2013. Released Aug. 5, 2015. Sentenced to 2 1/2 years in prison for participating in mass riots and employing force against law enforcement by lifting up an OMON officer by the vest and helmet. “This has meant something for our generation.” T Vladimir Akimenkov Left Front activist Andrei Barabanov Math graduate Detained on June 10, 2012. Released on a Kremlin amnesty on Dec. 19, 2013. Spent 557 days in detention on charges of participating in mass riots. “The others forbade me from rejecting the amnesty. But the fact that it was a partial amnesty, that they made innocent people feel guilty, is harsh.” Detained on May 28, 2012. Released Dec. 25, 2015. Sentenced to three years and seven months in prison for participating in mass riots and employing force against law enforcement by kicking and punching police. “The clashes that day were provoked and pre-planned by the authorities.” sentences, often for vaguely defined crimes. The string of 35 cases (to date) has collectively become known as the Bolotnoye case. By now, most of the Bolotnoye defendants have served their terms. But there can be no return to normal, three of the Bolotniki, as they call themselves, told The Moscow Times. “There is life before May 6, before my head-on encounter with the system. And life after,” says Barabanov, 25, speaking on the fourth anniversary of the Bolotnaya protest. “They’re completely different.” Not everyone had the benefit of such foresight. Nine months after Bolotnaya, police showed up at Ilya Gushchin’s door in the early hours of the morning. They asked him to come to the Investigative Committee’s office as a witness. He would be back by nightfall, investigators said. But once Gushchin had confirmed his identity in footage of the clashes, he became a suspect. He never did return home that night. Knock Knock Barabanov and two other protesters were among the “first wave,” detained shortly after the Bolotnaya rally. Vladimir Akimenkov was detained a month later. As a member of the far-left organization Left Front, he had been actively involved in protests. He had also been detained by police before. So he wasn’t surprised when they showed up at his home. “Any person engaged in politics in an authoritarian country should be prepared to go to prison,” he says stoically, sitting in a Moscow cafe. “When they came for me, I was ready.” BOLOTNOEDELO.INFO he lights went out without so much as a flicker in the Moscow apartment shared by Andrei Barabanov, his mother and girlfriend one evening in late May four years ago. Thinking the fuse box must have blown, Barabanov’s mother Tatyana unlocked the front door to step out into the corridor. At that point, a team of eight officers of Russia’s OMON riot police and a heavyset investigator stormed into their home. “It was like a scene from the movies,” says Tatyana. “As if they were arresting a high-profile criminal.” Andrei Barabanov was dragged out of the apartment barefoot, then thrown into the back of a police van. An OMON officer’s foot pressed his head down onto the floor. He remembers thinking to himself: “Andrei, you won’t see your home for another four years.” His calculation wasn’t far off: It would be three years and seven months before he would return to his own bed. His crime had been to participate in a protest rally several weeks earlier on central Moscow’s Bolotnaya Ploshchad. The rally was the culmination of an anti-Kremlin protest movement that had gained momentum in late 2011 following disputed parliamentary elections. It spilled over into 2012, when Vladimir Putin secured a third term as president. Sunday May 6 was the day before Putin’s inauguration. Tens of thousands of mostly middle-class protesters joined the “March of Millions” toward Bolotnaya square, across the river from the Kremlin. When they arrived, they were met by a phalanx of riot police, blocking further passage. The crowd that built up had nowhere to go but forward, toward the officers. Violent clashes followed, with rocks and other objects being hurled at police. The officers responded with unprecedented force, using tear gas, tasers and lashing out with batons. Hundreds of protesters were detained and shortly afterward released. It looked briefly as if that was the end of the story, but Russian authorities returned with a vengeance. Some of the Bolotnaya protesters were re-detained and charged with participating in mass riots and using force against law enforcement. Many received year-long prison YEVGENY BIYATOV / RIA NOVOSTI ALBINA SHAIMURATOVA SERGEI KARPUKHIN / REUTERS Four years after mass anti-Kremlin movement, convicted protesters reflect on the event. State Revenge Gushchin does not deny he used force against an OMON officer that Sunday. “He was beating a person who was lying on the ground, and I pulled him up by his vest and his helmet,” says Gushchin, who looks like a stockier, Russian version of James Dean. He says he was acting on instinct. Like other Bolotnoye suspects, however, Gushchin says the charges against him were deliberately exaggerated. The OMON officer claimed he suffered neck damage as a result of Gushchin’s actions. Gushchin is skeptical. Barabanov received his more than three-year sentence for hitting and kicking officers, actions that appear to be confirmed by video footage. Other accusations against him included “insulting the government” and biting an OMON officer in his bulletproof vest when he was detained. Vladimir AkiBut Akimenkov, who marched in a suit menkov being jacket and tie, says his case was entirely fabdetained by ricated. He reportedly hurled a flag pole, police on hitting an OMON guard in the chest. AkiMay 6, 2012. “I menkov, who is visually impaired, says he is was horri“not exactly an athlete” and nowhere near fied that they physically strong enough for such a feat. He were beating thinks his prior political activism made him people up. I a target for prosecutors. wanted to tell In general, the defendants feel the court them to stop proceedings against them were more fiction using force. But as soon than truth. None of the law enforcement ofas I walked ficers on duty that day were investigated for over, they poor crowd management or using excessive grabbed me.” force against unarmed civilians. “An injured riot police officer should be avenged by smashing protesters’ livers on the asphalt,” Dmitry Peskov was cited as saying by an opposition parliamentarian. 13 May 12 – 18, 2016 4 1/2 years Prison sentence given to Bolotnoye organizers Udaltsov and Razvozzhayev. “There were serious individual clashes and violations — by citizens who threw asphalt and by law enforcement who did not give people enough time to get out of the situation.” Vladimir Lukin, then-human rights ombudsman. The word’s worTh For some Bolotnoye defendants, the authorities’ clear bias makes it easier to accept what followed. “I never took it personally,” says Gushchin. “I always understood that they took a random sample, and I happened to be included in it.” But for Barabanov, the seemingly arbitrary nature of the case is also cause for torment. “I could’ve not gone to the protest. I could’ve left earlier. I could’ve not been detained that day,” he says. He’s been over the probabilities “hundreds of times” in his head. Locked Up By the time Gushchin received his 2 1/2-year sentence, he had already spent almost two years in a detention center and had only eight months left to serve. At that moment, the verdict felt like a windfall. “We celebrated in court,” says his mother Olga. Gushchin, who has now been out of jail for nine months, can see the humor in his time behind bars. He points to the “culture shock” of being locked in a 9-squaremeter cell with two other inmates with completely different backgrounds and tastes. The detention centers and prisons were filled with mostly drug dealers, thieves and people jailed on embezzleThe Bolotment charges — not his usual crowd. noye protest Stuck in the tiny cell for 23 hours a day, followed his companions would scour their horodisputed scopes in magazines, looking for predicparliamentions of what the future might bring. tary elections “New acquaintances, new loves,” Gushchin that saw the laughs. He describes as “a nightmare” their ruling United love for cheap entertainment programs. Russia secure “The television was always blaring,” he a narrow says. He later convinced them to switch to parliamentary the culture channel. majority and Putin return But behind the anecdotes, the Bolotniki to the presialso describe a sense of claustrophobia and dency. societal alienation. “Russian jail is a postgulag system,” says Barabanov, his speech soft and thoughtful. “The entire purpose is to subjugate a person,” he says. Letters written by relatives and strangers, illegally smuggled music and books provided lifelines and some refuge from their spartan surroundings. And Now? Barabanov was released from jail in December 2015. A little over a month after his release, he started working at Rus Sidyashchaya (Russia behind bars), a charity group for prisoners. He has returned to his mother’s apartment. And yet sitting in the small office, cluttered with books and packages ready to be sent off, he looks on his guard. He is sure his phone and online communication is still being watched by the authorities. “They say you need to spend one month in freedom for every year spent in prison,” he says. “But I feel that you need at least six months.” He takes the days as they come. Planning ahead is still difficult, he says. Speaking to The Moscow Times, Barabanov’s mother Tatyana said the years spent in prison had aged her son beyond his years. Aside from his interest in politics, at the time of his arrest Barabanov had also been a normal young man who loved airbrush painting and snowboarding. That lightness is now gone, she says. “I don’t see him taking any real pleasure in life, even though he’s very young,” she says. Gushchin, who also works for Rus Sidyashchaya, says his life is now about the small things. Following his release, he met a girl and fell in love. He’s looking for a new apartment. But some traces remain. Jail has made him more aggressive, he says. “Prisoners’ favorite pastime is to chew each other up,” he says. “You’re always anticipating the worst outcome. I try to tell myself: You’re now in a normal world, everything is okay.” Akimenkov, who was released early on a Kremlin amnesty, appears to have come through his trial empowered. He now runs a one-man operation coordinating help and raising funds for about 40 prisoners behind bars on politically motivated charges. “An icy calm has come over me that even scares the cops away,” he says. He demonstrates his intimidating glare. As well as new work, Bolotnaya has brought the group new friends. Barabanov, Gushchin and Akimenkov form part of a close-knit Bolotniki group. Despite their different political views, they now share a common history that has outlasted their prison terms. Bug Off! The Russian Way Клеиться: to hit on someone By Michele A. Berdy Moscow-based translator and interpreter, author of “The Russian Word’s Worth” (Glas), a collection of her columns. A No Ideas Four years after Bolotnaya, the era of prosperity under Putin has come to a standstill. More people have fallen below the poverty line. Some predict economic hardships could breathe new life into the protest movement. But on May 6 this year, Bolotnaya Ploshchad looks largely empty. Only several dozen activists have shown up for a rally on the four-year anniversary. All three Bolotniki say they were struck by the change in atmosphere in Russian society upon their release from prison. “There is a total lack of new, inspired ideas,” says Gushchin. “If people are going to take to the streets, it will have to be for something. Not just against the current regime.” Alexei KUdenKo / RiA novosTi AlBinA shAiMURATovA Ilya Gushchin at the Rus Sidyashchaya office where he and Barabanov now work. “In 20112012, there was a shared idea and the illusion that you could protest safely. Now, there’s a sense of danger.” Their own experience has dampened any hopes of peaceful protest leading to reform. In fact, Akimenkov’s anarchist views have been strengthened by the Bolotnoye experience and what he sees as the opposition’s readiness to put their egos first, and true reform second. He predicts a violent revolution sometime in the future. “It will be a bloody porridge,” he says. Meanwhile, the Russian authorities are not relaxing their grip. When a girl holds up a handmade cardboard sign reading: “The Bolotnoye case is a state crime,” on the square on May 6 this year, she is bundled into a police van by a team of six OMON officers. In total, eight people are detained on the evening of the anniversary for holding an unsanctioned protest, according to the Interfax news agency. Barabanov decided against attending the anniversary this year. He was sure he would be detained. What about if another mass protest movement arose in the future. Would he go then? “I don’t know,” he laughs nervously. “Only if I knew the outcome beforehand. I don’t have another three years and seven months to spare.” TMT s one of those people who responds to хамство (obnoxious behavior, rudeness) with either astonished silence or lame rejoinders like Как вы смеете?! (How dare you?), I’m always very impressed with people who have a clever comeback. For example, when a young man butts to the head of the line in a bank or store, one of my friends asks: Молодой человек! Объясните, пожалуйста, чем вы лучше нас! (Young man! Why don’t you tell us how you’re better than the rest of us?) Another acquaintance standing in a long line once managed to shut up a cranky older person who kept complaining about everyone and everything, clearly looking to pick a fight. In a moment of silence, my friend said: Жаль, что коммуналок больше нет. Не с кем ругаться! (Too bad there aren’t any more communal apartments. There’s no one to fight with.) Everyone laughed, and that, of course, silenced the serial complainer. A sub-set of this problem is how to respond to the person in the bar or in the park who keeps hitting on you. In Russian this is usually described by the verb приставать. Sometimes this just means to pester someone: Шеф пристаёт с вопросами об отчёте. (My boss keeps bugging me about the report.) But usually it’s clear what kind of pestering is meant: Шеф ко мне постоянно пристаёт (My boss keeps hitting on me.) If the person just won’t leave you alone, you can use the verb клеиться (to glue together), which in slang describes someone who sticks to you like white on rice. This can apply to men or women: Что делать? К мужу клеится девушка с работы (What should I do? A woman from work won’t leave my husband alone.) Or you can use another slang term: кадрить (to put the moves on someone). This also can refer to men or women: Она давно кадрит меня (She’s been putting the moves on me for a long time.) Кадрить sometimes, but not always, implies success: Сегодня я расскажу вам, как правильно кадрить девчонок (Today I’ll tell you how to score with the ladies.) So regardless of your gender or orientation, you might find yourself being hit on and not know how to get rid of the unwanted attention. In Russian, this is отшить (to give someone the brush-off, to tell someone where to get off). If you get the relatively polite pick-up line: Можно с вами познакомиться? (Let me introduce myself), you can reply equally politely: Я не хочу знакомиться (I don’t want to get to know you.) If that doesn’t work, you can explain why: Я замужем (I’m married.) Я спешу (I’m in a rush.) Я болею (I’m sick.) Here the illness remains undefined and therefore ominous. If the person just doesn’t get the message and starts grabbing, Russian advice columns suggest trying to keep things as calm as possible. Say: Извините, меня нельзя трогать (Sorry — but don’t touch me.) But if that doesn’t work, you can try a great put-down. These are best to try when you are surrounded by friends who will protect you or when you are sure you can run faster than the pest who won’t leave you alone. My favorite is for the guy who sidles up and asks: Девушка, скучаете? (Hey, are you bored?) Response: Не настолько (Not that bored!) Ouch. TMT YevGenY PARfYonov Living Here 14 Tips for Life culture What’s the deal with tipping? TMT: Tipping abroad can be a bit of a minefield. The process is often confusing, awkward and uncomfortable — even when you know the rules by which you’re playing. Add to that Russian currency, different service standards, complicated math problems after a long night of beers with friends and even a tipping professional can be a little flummoxed. To be clear, yes, in Russia there is now a tipping culture, and if you round up your bill after receiving a service of some kind and leave without the change you won’t be seen as offering a bribe. Unless it’s to a government worker of course. In restaurants, gratuity is rarely added automatically to the bill — it is, after all, a point of personal preference. Note that you are usually unable to add the tip manually when you pay by card, so bring cash. A standard tip at a restaurant is between 10-15 percent, while for coffee and cake or other small amounts feel free to simply round up the check. With taxis, due to the plethora of apps that connect directly to your bank account or PayPal, tipping culture has somewhat diminished. But if you do book a cab, are paying in cash and feel like you’ve had good service, 10 percent will be appreciated. Also note that when paying that cab drivers rarely want your change. They’ll either round the amount down or up to the nearest 50 or 100. Other services like haircuts, manicures, massages and concierge should also receive a tip. And last but not least — while tipping may seem an obligation masquerading as a choice, you should never tip if you don’t want to, and there is no legal requirement either. rePAIrS Where can I find a handyman? TMT: To be politically correct, it’s a handyperson you’re after. We’ve all experienced the frustration and ensuing panic that comes when guests are on the brink of arrival and all the bathroom lights simultaneously blow, the kitchen sink springs a leak or your front door decides it no longer wants to shut. If you’re really unlucky, all three of these things might happen at once. For those who lack the time, knowledge or inclination to handle these domestic tribulations, help is at hand. “Muzh na chas” (Husband The Moscow Times No. 5754 Advice, answers and lifehacks to help you enjoy Moscow. for an hour) may sound like an escort agency for desperate singles, but don’t be fooled. It’s a Moscow-based handyman agency that specializes in quick, convenient handyman repairs. While admittedly rather sexist from a branding perspective, the company can supply you with people willing to fix your toilet, put together that flat-pack from IKEA and lend a hand with the myriad of other odd jobs that require technical expertise — for a small price. How does it work? An online form allows you to request a handyman any time between 7 a.m. and 12 p.m., including at the weekend. One hour of assistance costs 990 rubles, with subsequent hours charged the same rate. If you have a very specific problem or require someone with particular technical expertise, you can hire a “master” for a set price. You can confirm prices beforehand by calling an operator. For more information see muzhna-chas.ru Fun StuFF How do I book a private banya? TMT: One of Russian life’s greatest joys has to be the banya. An oasis of tranquility, indulgence and relaxation in an otherwise — let’s face it — stressful city like Moscow, there’s nothing like a good steam and soak in an traditional bathhouse to ease that hangover or cure those aches and pains. While purists would argue that you need to head to one of the city’s public bathhouses like Sanduny to benefit from the full banya experience, getting naked in front of complete strangers isn’t everyone’s cup of tea. If so, head to sauna.ru. The handy encyclopedic website allows you to search for a banya according to criteria like price, location and capacity. You can see photos of the interior, a map location and both a phone number and online booking form to reserve your venue of choice. It’s worth noting that the price displayed per hour is for rental of the entire banya, not the price per individual. 2,000 rubles an hour might seem a lot, but split between 15 you’re looking at a bargain. Prices are cheaper in the daytime and on weekdays and it’s worth looking into additional costs if you bring your own food and drinks with you. Frankly, even if you’re not in the market for a private steam session, the website is a lot of fun to browse. With many extravagant banyas boasting banqueting tables, slightly seedy looking “relaxation rooms” and pool tables as standard, hunting for your banya is half the fun. All you need to do is remember to request a stylish felt hat to protect your hair and the veniki (birch branches) with which to beat your poor tired body. Better yet, ask your friend to do it. After all, banya bonding is the best type of bonding. For more information see sauna.ru Classifieds May 12 – 18, 2016 Advertising. To place an ad, please contact Yulia Bychenkova Tel.: +7 (495) 232 4774 [email protected] 15 What’s On STage eNTeRTaINMeNT 16 Last Chance to Catch Singing in the Rain By Ruth Moore [email protected] A chorus donning black tuxedos and bowler hats twirl multicolored umbrellas as rain pours down on them from the stage rafters. Shrieks of delight from spectators in the front rows — caught by the deluge — mingle with exuberant applause. It seems that “Singing in the Rain” has made a splash in more ways than one on the Moscow stage. When the curtain falls at the Rossiya Theater in Pushkin Square on May 28, “Singing in the Rain” will have been performed more than 300 times to the delight of thousands of musical-loving Muscovites. “We can now confidently say that “Singing in the Rain” has been a complete breakthrough produc- tion,” said Dmitry Bogachyov, head of the Stage Entertainment theater company, in a written statement to The Moscow Times. Based on the 1952 musical comedy of the same name, “Singing in the Rain” satirizes and parodies the panic of Hollywood actors and filmmakers when the “talkies” arrive and a new era of cinema dawns. Much of the musical’s hilarity comes from the glamorous but vocally challenged screen diva Lina Lamont (played by Anastasia Stotskaya) who believes herself to be in a romantic relationship with her on-screen partner Don Lockwood (Stanislav Chunikhin). Lina’s shrill and squawky voice means her attempts at sound The Moscow Times No. 5754 See www.themoscowtimes.com for more listings. recording fall flat, until Kathy Selden (Yulia Iva) dubs her own rich, beautiful voice over the top. Add to the setup a classic romance, some slapstick, an infectiously upbeat score and, of course, some umbrellas, and you’ve got yourself an all singing, all dancing, all raining hit. The success of the show rides on its sheer vitality. Three hours fly by in a whirl of sequins, high-kicks and 1920s glamor. The eponymous song “Singing in the Rain,” performed just before the break to allow stage hands to mop away the swimming pool on the floor, is an obvious highlight. It’s a physically grueling routine — imagine vigorously tap dancing in a sodden three-piece suit. But Chunikhin pulls it off with nonchalant ease, capturing a hint of the Gene Kelly charisma that dazzled audiences in the original film. The Rossiya Theater’s performers have done an admirable job emanating the fleet feet of their overseas counterparts. Particularly when you consider that much of the show’s choreography was completely unfamiliar to them. “During casting it became apparent that almost no Russian performers were trained in tap dance. But that did not stop us, it strengthened our resolve. The performers took no mercy on themselves and mastered the material through hours of grueling training sessions and rehearsals,” said Bogachyov. While the finesse isn’t quite of Broadway standards, you’d have to be a cold, hard miser for “Singing in the Rain” to not leave you skipping out of the theater onto Pushkin Square with a spring in your step and a happy refrain in your heart. Some advice — remember to ask for a rain poncho if you’re planning to sit in the front row. TMT Rossiya Theater rain-musical.ru 2 Pushkin Square Metro Tverskaya, Pushkinskaya, Chekhovskaya Through May 28 May 12 – 18 THEATER Remote Moscow Wear a special headset and embark on an interactive theater quest through the streets of Moscow remote-moscow.ru May 14 through May 31 CONCERT Denis Matsuyev Acclaimed Russian classical pianist Matsuyev performs Beethoven, Ravel and Rachmaninov Conservatory Great Hall meloman.ru 13 Bolshaya Nikitskaya Ulitsa Metro Pushkinskaya, Biblioteka Imeni Lenina May 18 at 7 p.m. NATURE Spring Festival of Flowers See Moscow come into bloom this spring in the tranquil gardens of Moscow University Aptekarsky Ogorod at the Moscow University Botanic Garden Through May 29 CONCERT Postmodern Jukebox A live band performs songs from artists like Beyonce, Snoop Dogg and Madonna in a 1930’s Jazz style Yota Space glavclub.com/msk 11 Ulitsa Ordzhonikidze. Metro Leninsky Prospekt May 14 at 8 p.m. EXHIBITION The Congo River. Central African Art New exhibition of African Art from the Musee du Quai Branly collection in Paris Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts newpaintart.ru 14 Ulitsa Volkhonka. Metro Kropotkinskaya May 17 through Sept. 4