french connection

Transcription

french connection
krakow POST
FREE
June 2008
Edition 44
ISSN 1898-4762
www.krakowpost.com
Krakow
Uncertain future for
Plac Nowy
>> page 3
Poland
Sex scandal puts SelfDefence on the defence
>> page 8
Feature
Euro 2008 wall chart,
facts and figures
>> page 10, 11
Business
Investment funds in
Poland
>> page 13
Sport
Two presidents, one goal / photo Bartosz Krupa/East News
FRENCH CONNECTION
France to open job
market to Poles
Adelina Krupski
C
onfirming their cooperation, French President Nicolas Sarkozy
and his Polish counterpart Lech Kaczynski signed
a declaration on strategic partnership at the second PolishFrench summit, held in Warsaw
on the 28th of May.
The document, covering issues
regarding energy, education
and security, obliges the two
countries to collaborate closely
on political, economic, social
and cultural affairs both in bilateral relations and in discussions with the EU and NATO.
More importantly, the newly
signed agreement signifies that
Poland and France have reconciled after the negativity that
arose under former President
Jacques Chirac, partly due to
differences over the US-led invasion of Iraq.
In addition, Sarkozy announced
that Paris will lift restrictions
on Polish workers in France as
of July 1st this year, the same
day on which the country is
to take over the half-yearly EU
presidency. “It’s a very important decision,” said Kaczynski.
“We want to be a fully-fledged
member of the EU.”
Unlike Britain, Ireland and
Sweden, which chose to allow
complete access upon enlargement, France preferred to keep
its labour market closed to new
EU members until they had undergone a five-year transition
period. Considering France
originally planned to take this
“It’s a very important decision,”
said
Kaczynski.
“We want to be a fully-fledged
member of the EU.”
step in May 2009, the restrictions are to be abolished nearly
a year ahead of schedule.
As a result, the French labour
market will soon be open to all
workers from the eight former
communist
countries
that
joined the EU in 2004. Citizens
of Poland, Slovakia, Hungary,
Latvia, Lithuania, Estonia, Slovenia and the Czech Republic
will be able to work freely in
France, regardless of their profession. However, restrictions
will continue to apply to workers from Bulgaria and Romania,
which joined the EU only last
year. Furthermore, work restrictions still remain in force
in Germany, Austria, Denmark
and Belgium.
Sarkozy emphasised that he believes in the free movement of
people and goods inside Europe
and declared France wants to
work “side by side” with Poland
during its entire presidency of
the EU. As the largest
>> 2
of the eight countries
Poland’s rocky road to
Euro 2008
>> page 12
Culture
Looted cross returns
to Poland
>> page 15
Citylife
> by night
Notes From the
Underground
/CL 2
> reviews
Drop In, Fork Out,
Get Served
/CL 3
> spotlight
Jewish Culture Festival
previewed
/CL 5
> posted
Concerts, exhibitions &
parties
/CL 6, 7, 8
2 Krakow Post JUNE 2008
www.krakowpost.com
News Krakow
Letters
From the editor
Praise and complaints addressed
to the editor
Hello KP Readers,
I really wanted to fill this space with letters from you this month. But while we’ve
received plenty of verbal feedback and emails about the first “new” edition of the
Post, we didn’t receive any actual letters to
be published. So, I’d like to use this space
to encourage something that is essential to
running a publication such as this one: feedback.
Don’t like a story? Or a writer? Write to us!
Do like a story, but would like to share another perspective? Write to us as well! As
the debate section (see p. 5) this month is a
pretty hot topic, particularly for ex-pats who
have lived in Krakow for several years and
have seen the evolution of Kazimierz, I’m
expecting plenty of contrasting viewpoints
from our readers. Then there’s the opinion
piece, which is, well, opinionated. So, if you
agree or disagree with any of these pieces,
or if you quite fancy the fonts we’re using
or our neat Euro 2008 wall chart – whatever
– write to us!
“
Don’t
like a
story?
Or a
writer?
Write
to us!
T
A 36-year-old Pole murdered his
Indian wife and buried the body
in the garden. The terrible incident took place in Raciborsko
near Wieliczka, the salt mine city
east of Krakow. The man had lived
there since April in a rented house
together with the victim, 27-yearold Jooaki and their 3-year-old
son. The two met in the US, lived
in England and in spring this year
they moved to Poland.
The EC report on the functioning of transitional measures from
February 2006 shows that, over the first two years following the
expansion, migration flows have had positive economic effects in
those countries that did not restrict free movement from the eight
new Member States. For instance, they helped to relieve labour
market shortages and contributed to sustained economic growth
and to better public finances in the countries concerned.
For France, which suffers a shortage of skilled labour despite its
relatively high 7.5 percent unemployment rate, migration from
Eastern Europe is seen as part of the solution, especially seeing as
the country has been gradually opening its job market to workers
from the east since May 2006.
“
...migration
flows have had positive economic ef-
fects in those coun-
restrict free movement from the eight
new Member States
During his one-day visit, the
French president also met with
Prime Minister Donald Tusk to
talk over the Polish initiative on
the EU foreign policy and further eastern expansion toward
the former Soviet republics, notably Ukraine, Georgia and Azerbaijan. In the case of Ukraine,
Poland has been a strong supporter of its establishing closer
ties with both the EU and NATO.
Sarkozy said France will also
seek closer links between the
EU and Ukraine.
Tusk responded warmly to the
encouraging words expressed by Sarkozy, saying it showed that
eastern partnership with Ukraine could soon be approved and it
should not be seen as a rival to plans championed by Sarkozy to
boost EU-Mediterranean ties. “There is no conflict between these
two projects, they are complementary,” Tusk said.
“
letters to the editor
The news was also well received by the European Commission.
Vladimir Spidla, European Commissioner for Employment, Social
Affairs and Equal Opportunities, said, “I warmly welcome the fact
that the French government has reconsidered the restrictions on
free movement of workers in force since May 2004.” According to
Spidla, “Fully opening the job market to citizens of the eight member states from Central and Eastern Europe will bring benefits to
the economy and to the country as a whole.”
“
Sincerely,
Anna Spysz
Editor-in-Chief
Indian Woman
Murdered by Polish
Husband
tries that did not
You might also notice some changes in
this issue; we’ve increased our circulation
to 50,000 copies from the initial 20,000,
and we’ve increased the paper to 28 pages.
Thanks to suggestions from our readers and
staff journalists, we’ve added one new feature so far - a language section, designed to
help those learning Polish (p. 17) – and there
are plenty more in the works. We’re also
working on making the Krakow Post website
more interactive, by adding features such as
comments on articles and full stories available only online (see interview with J. Ornstein, p. 4).
But these changes can only come from your
feedback, so if you have anything to say –
write to us!
<< Continued from 1
involved, Poland cut its unemployment rate to 9 percent, demonstrating high economic growth and “the ambition to develop in a sustained way.” Accordingly, Sarkozy said France should approach
Poland with understanding.
he Krakow Post welcomes letters to the editor. Letters for
publication should be signed and bear the signatory’s email address and city of residence. The Krakow Post reserves
the right to edit letters.
Please send letters to the editor at [email protected],
or by post at
Krakow Post
Ul. Szczepanska 7/4a
31-011 Krakow
Finally, Sarkozy congratulated Poland on its decision to take part
in the EU military mission in Chad, stressing that the move exemplifies the engagement of Poland in shared political processes as
well as a commitment to the security of the EU. Following meetings with Sejm Speaker Bronislaw Komorowski and Senate Speaker
Bogdan Borusewicz, Sarkozy delivered a speech to the parliament,
in which he acclaimed Poland as a great nation of Europe.
about
Grażyna Zawada
The forensic evidence revealed
that two weeks ago the husband,
an art historian by profession,
murdered Jooaki with several
blows of a dull object and buried
the body about 30 metres away
from the house.
The whole case would have never
come to light if it wasn’t for Joonaki’s sister, who came from England to visit her. When she didn’t
find her there, she informed the
police. Soon afterwards the husband reported her missing, claiming that she’d gone out, but had
left no message as to where.
Afterwards the Indian embassy
began a search for the missing
woman and launched an investigation. The police questioned
the husband and identified him as
a chief suspect. Biological clues
found at the crime scene led to
the body and the suspect admitted to having committed the
crime. The motive he gave was
a marital disagreement between
the two.
In Poland there are very few examples of Indian woman married
to Polish men. According to Jayanti Hazra de Varion, an Indian
woman married to a former Polish
ambassador to Britain, only three
Indian women in Poland are married to Poles. At www.forum.gazeta.pl acquaintances of the couple
express their shock and disbelief
– according to user “Requiem” the
man had difficulties with “finding
his place on earth.”
krakow POST
Krakow Post is a monthly
publication published by Lifeboat Ltd.
ISSN: 1898-4762
www.krakowpost.com
Anna Spysz, Editor-in-Chief
[email protected]
Mark Bradshaw, Publisher
[email protected]
Duncan Rhodes, Nightlife Editor
[email protected]
Culture Editor
[email protected]
Stuart Wilson, Design
For advertising inquiries,
please contact:
Michal McSperrin-Kossak,
Sales Manager
[email protected]
+48 (12) 421 4865
Printers, www.drukarniapolska.pl
Krakow Post JUNE 2008 3
www.krakowpost.com
News Krakow
Uncertain Future
for Plac Nowy
commissioned by the association revealed that a significant
proportion of local residents
use the market at least once a
week and do not want to lose it;
it is the only place to buy fresh
fruit and vegetables in the immediate vicinity (the nearest
alternative is a 15 minute walk
away at the Hala Targowa).
Their petition has almost 700
signatories, with support coming from as far afield as the UK,
France and the US.
Ewa Spohn
P
lac Nowy in Kazimierz
has been a place of trade
for both Christian and
Jewish communities since it
was created in the late 19th
century. The round building in
the middle, known as the “Okraglak,” was built later and was
the only place in the city where
you could buy both kosher and
non-kosher meat right up until
the Second World War.
After the war, Kazimierz’s fortunes declined and by the late
1990s crime was rife, making it
a place one wouldn’t visit out
of choice. Its fortunes turned
around in the late 1990s as
artists started to move in to
the dilapidated buildings, attracted by cheap rents and the
proximity to the Old Town. The
first cafés (Singer Café and Alchemia) opened on Plac Nowy
in 1999.
In 1992, a 10-year contract for
the running and management
of the square was awarded to
a private company owned by
a group of its traders. In 2002,
this contract was renewed for
a further 30 years without a
public tender. The company
is owned by 26 individuals,
some of whom are still traders and enjoy preferential rates
for their pitches, their trading
expenses paid for, and a share
of the substantial profits. As
the square is a UNESCO World
Heritage site, repairs and renovations are covered from the
city’s budget.
While the amount, quality and
variety of produce sold in the
market has declined over the
last decade, the area around the
market is thriving. Many of the
surrounding buildings house
bars and cafes that are popular both during the day and at
night.
In late 2007, local media reported that the city’s councillors had passed a new by-law
that allows sale of alcohol on
“Okraglak” - Plac Nowy / photo Stuart Wilson
all of Krakow’s market squares
until midnight, and in the case
of Plac Nowy until 2 am.
these cafes will serve tea, coffee, beer and cakes but no spirits.
The residents of Plac Nowy already suffer from problems
with rubbish and noise. They
are unhappy, not only about
the lack of consultation by the
democratically elected councillors, but also about the prospect of Plac Nowy being turned
into a permanent Oktoberfest.
The City Council’s official reason behind the changes is that
they are a way of supporting
business and attracting tourism. However, this seems to fly
in the face of the strategy of the
city’s marketing policy, which
promotes Krakow as a place for
culture rather than partying.
Representatives of Kazimierz
sp. z o.o. maintain that the idea
of cafes is critical for the future
of the square, as the selling of
fruit and vegetables doesn’t
bring in enough revenue. They
say that their intention is that
In early 2008, residents and
friends of the square launched
an association called “Przyjazny
Kazimierz” (“Friendly Kazimierz”) to push for a more sustainable approach to the development of the square. Research
Medical Tourists Hit Krakow
Shots of novocaine may soon be competing equally with shots of
vodka as city dentists and doctors tap the tourist industry
Sebastian Leitich
Lee Nicholson flashes a toothy,
Cheshire cat grin.
“Look what they did to me!” he
says, jutting his chin out and
running his forefinger over
each of his six new prosthetic
front teeth. “It’s fantastic!”
Lee, a retired electronics engineer in his late 60s from Fife
in Scotland, is referring to the
dental work he received at the
hands of Dr. Tomek Nowak, a
local dentist who spends much
of his time peering into the
mouths and repairing the teeth
of Britons at his clinic SGS Dentamed in the north of the city.
Lee, Dr. Nowak’s first foreign
client, is back in Krakow for
seconds. This time he’s brought
his wife, who’s considering implants.
“Dental care in the UK is absolute rubbish. Coming to Krakow
was not only about savings. I
couldn’t get a private dentist in
the UK let alone an NHS dentist.
I was in pain and they couldn’t
help me.”
But what translates into wads of
savings and relief for medical
tourists like Lee, spells boom
time for Dr. Nowak and other
private medical practitioners,
who are picking up where the
NHS and private UK clinics have
failed.
“Revenue from medical tourists
already makes up approximately 20 percent of our business.
I can see it going up in the future,” says Dr. Nowak.
So why did the Nicholsons
chose Krakow?
“Convenience mostly, but also
price. We considered Warsaw
but it was easiest to get to Krakow from where we are than
anywhere else,” says Lee.
Lee’s treatment was arranged
from start to finish by Perfect
Profiles, a UK-based
medical tourism agent. >> 4
/ photo Anna Spysz
>> 4
The association has also been
meeting councillors individually to discuss the changes and
has found some support. A
number of them have privately
admitted that the Council operates on a “scratch my back and
I’ll scratch yours” approach
to getting each other’s resolutions passed, which is probably
why the potential implications
of these changes were not discussed in full.
No one doubts that Plac Nowy
needs to be redeveloped, but
there is a fundamental conflict between a privately owned
company that has a duty to
maximize profits for its shareholders, and the residents who
think it inappropriate for the
future of a historic public space
to be decided on by a private
corporation.
4 Krakow Post JUNE 2008
www.krakowpost.com
News Krakow
Lem’s Playground
<< Continued from
“Garden of Experiments” dedicated to literary great
coherent, emblematic and aesthetically pleasing. The layout
was masterminded by Krzysztof Ingarden, best known to
Cracovians as the architect of
the Wyspianski 2000 pavilion.
Nick Hodge
J
une 1st is Children’s Day in
Poland and this year Cracovian youngsters were given a princely present. “Ogrod
Doswiadczen” (“The Garden of
Experiments”) had its official
opening on the 8th of May and
is now fully open to the public.
Spread across six hectares of
landscaped parkland between
old Krakow and Nowa Huta, the
garden has swept science out
of the dusty classroom. Visitors
can literally grasp the doctrine,
as over fifty interactive installations are up and running,
each demonstrating a different
phenomenon in the world of
physics.
The brainchild of Danuta Szymonska, head of the Cyprian
Norwid Cultural Centre, the
garden was jointly funded by
Krakow and EU money and it
has already scooped a prize in
this year’s “Poland Blossoms –
Seven Wonders of EU Funding”
competition, winning in the
tourist attraction category.
A hands-on demonstration of sound
Several luminaries lent their expertise to the project, including
architect Krzysztof Ingarden,
physicist Dr. Marek Golab and
engineer Krzysztof Stepien. After gaining the blessing of the
late author’s family, the garden
was dedicated to Stanislaw Lem,
the internationally celebrated
science fiction writer who lived
in Krakow for many decades.
The idea for the garden was
initially sparked by a visit to
Nuremberg’s “Field of Experi-
ences for the Senses.” Mrs Szymonska was especially keen to
found the garden in the vicinity of Nowa Huta, a district so
often maligned by Cracovians.
The big break came in late 2004,
when the project gained a boost
through EU backing.
One of the most striking aspects
of the garden is its sculptural
quality. Great care has been
taken to organise the installations – themselves visually
delightful – in a manner that is
The installations have been divided into four zones: Optical,
Acoustic, Liquid and Mechanical. Each quarter unfurls like
a bough of a tree, in this case
weaving amongst actual mature
trees that have endured from
the former parkland. Platforms,
inspired by the notion of fallen
leaves - thus reflecting the laws
of physics - provide elegant bases for each experiment. Prisms,
periscopes, tubular bells and
rotating stars are a few of the
many installations that visitors
can enjoy.
Stanislaw Lem, whose widow
attended the opening ceremony
on May 8th, would have had
much to savour. As a child, the
future literary giant filled countless notebooks with designs for
machines and contraptions.
Until his last days, his favourite
keepsake was a light conductor, which held pride of
place on his desk at his >> 7
I returned nearly a month later
to have a much quieter talk with
Jonathan Ornstein, the centre’s
director, and to see what’s going on at the centre now that
the commotion from the opening has settled. (See the full interview online at www.krakowpost.com)
KP: It’s been one month since
the opening – what have you accomplished so far, and what’s
still in the works?
JO: Considering that the opening was very much dictated by
the Prince’s schedule - I think
we would have wanted the opening to be probably six months
down the road - considering
that, and the building not being
completely ready, even without
all of these things we’ve managed to be remarkably functional. The Klub Seniora, the
senior’s club, is up and functioning three days a week; we
have the Sunday school functioning, we’ve had the Days of
Israel, [during which] we held a
lot of events here, we had a Shabat dinner here – somehow – for
120 people. We’ve had different
But while companies like Perfect
Profiles are cashing in on inadequate health care in the UK by
sending clients to Krakow, local
agents are finding it difficult to
get a share of the profits.
“Everybody knows Polish doctors and dentists so there is
no fear of quality, but I don’t
have any customers!” says
Jerzy Postawska, director of local medical tourist agent Jorge
Group.
“The problem is there’s no
trend for this here.”
There might be no trend in
medical tourism in Krakow in
Jerzy’s opinion, but medical
tourism is big money in Poland.
In 2006, there were 450,000
medical tourists to Poland, leaving $65 million in their wake.
Revenues were forecast to grow
by one third in 2007 and triple
by 2013, as reported in Poland
Monthly magazine, December
2007.
“We know the territory better
than anyone else and I think
soon there will be many happy
clients,” says company director and recent medical school
graduate Piotr Oleksy.
Anna Spysz
I
A couple of lengthy dentistchair sessions later, Lee was
on a plane back to the UK, with
a new set of front teeth, relief
from months of pain and approximately 2,000 pounds in
pocket.
Jerzy’s only competitor in Krakow, Medical Travel Poland,
thinks business will soon be
good.
Jewish Community Centre Revisited
t’s been almost one month
since I last visited the
brand-new Jewish Community Centre on Miodowa
Street, though at that time the
atmosphere was completely
different. As we reported in last
month’s Krakow Post, the centre
opened with a grand ceremony,
which included a momentous
visit by Prince Charles and Camilla, as well as many other important figures, and a throng of
reporters and photographers.
3
Back at Dr. Nowak’s clinic, Lee’s
wife has opted for implants.
This means another tidy sum
for Nowak and his team, and
savings and relief for Deidre
Nicholson. The potential for
growth in medical tourism, especially dentistry, in Krakow
is “immeasurable,” says clinic
manager Katarzyna Kusio.
The senior centre, one of the first functioning rooms
lectures; a world expert on antiSemitism is coming this week.
The Rabbi has been having Talmud lessons and Bar mitzvah
lessons. So we’ve been surprisingly functional even though
the infrastructure of the building isn’t in place yet.
To read more, visit >>
www.krakowpost.com
It’s this growth that local agents
like Jerzy and Piotr want a share
of. Yet, as Krakow’s traditional
tourism machine purrs into
high gear for another summer’s
rich pickings, it would seem
that for now they will have to
wait before the dentist’s chair
and operating theatre start
earning them money.
Krakow Post JUNE 2008 5
www.krakowpost.com
News Krakow
Debate Section
Kazimierz: Revival or Reminiscence?
With the Jewish Culture Festival (see Spotlight, City Life) in town this month, Krakow Post discusses a much-debated topic: the “Jewish revival” of Kazimierz. Soren Gauger is sceptical, whilst Duncan Rhodes urges optimism.
B
efore the devastation of the Second World War, Kazimierz housed a flourishing Jewish community in a newly independent Poland, and the district was home to a large fraction of
Krakow’s estimated 65,000 Jews. It was a historic centre of Jewish culture in southern Poland. However, after the events of the Holocaust decimated Krakow’s Jewish population
and scattered the survivors around the globe, the uninhabited district fell into neglect and disrepair for the better part of fifty years.
Today, the word on Kazimierz’s streets is “revival” – but is it possible to have a true Jewish revival with so few actual Jews living in Kazimierz? Has the neighbourhood simply become a
sort of Jewish Disneyland, catering to tourists who dream of a romantic Jewish past, but lacking any present-day cultural reality? Or have recent events like the opening of the Jewish
Community Centre and the popularity of the Jewish Culture Festival shown that there is some true Jewish life amidst the memorabilia?
A:
“It’s terrible to have all these Jewish hotels, restaurants and trinkets in
Kazimierz when this is where they were all massacred, and when so few
Jews actually live here now.”
Just because something is repeated a hundred times, it does not mean it
is necessarily untrue. But it does make the idea strangely suspect; if every tourist notices
the same thing at a first glance, then surely there must be some complexity going unnoticed, some false bottom to the situation? Bearing in mind, of course, that tourists are
not a species of people celebrated for their perceptiveness and intellectual prowess.
F:
After the events of World War II, it is hardly surprising that those few Jews
who did manage to escape Poland and the Holocaust (around ten percent)
haven’t been in a hurry to return. Memories too horrid for most of us to
comprehend are indelibly printed on the collective consciousness of an older
generation, whilst younger generations of Jews may feel no connection with a land which
they never stepped foot in – and one which offers less opportunities than many enjoy in
America, Canada, Israel, Britain and Australia today.
Such a a reality means that Kazimierz will
never flourish as a Jewish district in the same
sense that it did for six hundred years prior to
the war, but it does have a chance to develop
sensitively in response to its past, to cultivate Jewish culture, and to serve the needs
of the small but growing Jewish community.
I would argue it is already doing that, thanks
to a small but committed number of Jews and
Philosemites (including Prince Charles) who
have invested time, effort and money in the
district, either for cultural, community or business goals. Chris Schwarz’s Galicia Museum,
the Jewish Cultural Centre and now the Jewish
Community Centre are obvious examples of
the former two, whilst a number of kosher
restaurants such as Ariel, Alef and Once Upon
a Time in Kazimierz also undeniably contribute to a sense of Jewishness of the district,
whether they are patronized by tourists or
Three years ago, or especially seven years ago,
I could have made an unorthodox case for the
survival of a true Jewish culture in Kazimierz,
in spite of the almost total formal absence of
Jews, so to speak. This culture was understood
in a symbolic sense. That is, crossing Dietla
one entered a small zone that was a cultural,
and sometimes even legislative alternative
to Krakow-at-large. A different kind of nightlife took place here; the mixture of homeless
people, drug addicts, students and Bohemia,
combined with the unrenovated buildings and
badly functioning streetlamps made for an
ambience of creative depravity. The first Soup
Festival gave the impression that things were
barely under control, and that things could fly
off their hinges at any moment.
By this I am not trying to suggest that there was
anything particularly Jewish about Kazimierz,
but that it was regarded as an “other” to the mainstream of Krakow’s Old Town, and
therefore an “other” to the homogenous Polish Catholic lifestyle and value system.
The most compelling instances of this were when, for example, the (previous) Pope
visited Krakow, and all the alcohol shops were shut down in the city for his arrival, to
prepare a properly pious atmosphere. During these times the bars and alcohol shops of
Kazimierz remained outside of the city-wide jurisdiction – that is, they were enough part
of another culture that they were somehow outside the moral regulations of the rest of
Krakow.
And so, for three days, all of Krakow drank in Kazimierz.
It’s a bit feeble, that it boils down to alcohol like this; but it was a legacy of sorts.
But I started off this text by saying that three years ago – more or less to the moment
when Poland entered the European Union – I could have made a case for the living presence of Jewishness in Kazimierz; however for the past three years the story of Kazimierz
has been primarily one of gentrification (the Prince of Wales’s bizarre input notwithstanding). The steady and cynical development of a “Kazimierz look” for the cafes, the
ban on public drinking, and the over-development, piling bars upon bars, have all helped
make Kazimierz an “ordinary” part of Krakow, albeit with a fashionable reputation.
anyone else.
You’d have to be quite blind not to detect a sense of Jewishness in Kazimierz (those
synagogues certainly help), but what about a revival? It’s a sad and oft-stated truth
that there aren’t enough Jews living in Krakow to support a revival of Jewish culture by
themselves, but the beautiful paradox of the current situation is that one is happening
anyway. In fact both Cracovians and tourists can be proud that they are actually providing the interest, and therefore impetus, for a revival in Jewish culture, whether they have
any Jewish ties or not. This revival isn’t imagined, but can be measured by the increasing
attendance numbers of the Jewish Festival (the final concert attracted 13,000 people in
2007), the popular Klezmer concerts that now play in the district’s bars every week and
the need of a community centre for the growing population. Meanwhile the interest in
Jewish culture amongst young Poles is such that the Department of Jewish Studies at Jagiellonian University is now oversubscribed. You couldn’t have said that ten years ago.
A Jewish revival can only ever be a small part of the development of Kazimierz. Ultimately the area must develop, along with the rest of the world, according to the rules of
economics. But rather than sweep Jewish culture under the carpet, let’s be thankful that
this integral part of Krakow’s history is being preserved, cultivated and celebrated by
today’s generation.
6 Krakow Post JUNE 2008
www.krakowpost.com
News Poland
Martial Law on Trial
Walesa an Informer?
Staff Reporter
A new report published by the Institute of National Remembrance
(IPN), a body that looks into crimes
against Poland by Nazis and Communists, states that former Polish president Lech Walesa, the
Solidarity leader and Nobel Peace
Prize winner, collaborated with
the Communist Party in the 1970s.
Two historians are responsible for
the text, Piotr Gontarczyk and Slawomir Cenckiewicz.
Will Jaruzelski be punished for martial law?
Adelina Krupski
C
ommunist crimes from
over 25 years ago have
resurfaced in a Warsaw court. Accusing
the former communist leader of
Poland, General Wojciech Jaruzelski, of imposing martial law
in Poland in 1981, the Institute
of National Remembrance (IPN)
must now revise its indictment
before the trial can begin.
The case against Jaruzelski and
eight other former officials was
returned to prosecutors on May
14th with an order for documentation from foreign archives as
well as testimony from further
witnesses. Following a request
from defense lawyers, the court
recommended that the IPN interview leading politicians of the
Cold War era, including the last
Soviet leader Mikhail Gorbachev,
former British Prime Minister
Margaret Thatcher and former
US Secretary of State Alexander
Haig.
Gorbachev refused to testify in
the trial, regarding the court
case as “baseless prosecution.”
Having written to the judges and
to the parliament about the trial,
the former Soviet leader told the
official newspaper of the Russian government, Rossijskaya
Gazeta, that he has contributed
all he knows and has nothing new
to add. Gorbachev also stressed
the old age and poor health of
Jaruzelski. If found guilty of
“having led an armed organisation of a criminal character,” the
former communist officials face
up to ten years in jail.
The IPN, a commission established by the Polish Parliament
in 1998 to prosecute crimes
against the Polish nation, namely those carried out by officials
of the communist state between
September 17, 1939 and December 31, 1989, said it would appeal the ruling that it need question the high-profile witnesses.
According to Stanislaw Kania,
then party first secretary and
one of the co-accused, these key
political figures of the 1980s
“contributed largely to the fact
that the Soviet Union finally
withdrew from the intention
to intervene.” As a result, their
voice plays a critical role in the
case. The testimonies would not
only provide the additional information required by the court,
but also clarify the international
context of the decision to impose the crackdown.
The declaration of martial law on
December 13, 1981 was an operation against the Solidarity movement, preventing the ongoing
democratisation processes. As a
result, Poland suffered extreme
repression. Over ten thousand
arrests followed the crackdown
and close to one hundred people were killed when strikes and
demonstrations were crushed by
the army and police. Solidarity
was banned and its leader, Lech
Walesa, imprisoned. A curfew
was imposed, telephone lines
were disconnected, television
channels were shut down and
national borders were sealed.
As Miroslaw Czech from Gazeta
Wyborcza states, “The imposition of martial law ended the
peaceful Solidarity revolution.
It destroyed the hopes of millions of Poles.” Czech maintains
that the group led by General
/ cartoon Dominik Nawrocki
Wojciech Jaruzelski was solely
accountable for this act. Consequently, the court must examine
all the documents, especially
those from the Soviet archives,
and witnesses must be questioned.
Accepting full responsibility
for having imposed martial law,
Jaruzelski argues he chose the
lesser of two evils, claiming that
if Solidarity had brought down
communism in Poland and the
Polish government had not resorted to extreme measures, Soviet troops would have invaded
the country. According to Jaruzelski, “Martial law was a rescue for our country and Polish
society from a disaster in many
ways. I uphold this evaluation
with utmost conviction.”
However, the IPN claims that
preparations to introduce martial law started over a year earlier, in August 1980. Moreover,
documents collected by the
IPN show that the Soviets had
no time for Poland in 1981, as
they were running the operation in Afghanistan and had no
intention of sending troops to
Poland.
Historian Pawel Machcewicz
confirms that the Soviets were
not willing to intervene in Poland at that time. “In my opinion
it means that General Jaruzelski
had more room for manoeuvre
and that he was not under the
direct danger of Soviet intervention. He could have sought
agreement with Solidarity.” This
historical evidence belies Jaruzelski’s version, suggesting instead that Jaruzelski declared
martial law as part of his own
agenda.
Whatever historical truth emerges from these proceedings,
Jaruzelski, as former leader
of the Polish United Workers’
Party (PZPR), in ordering armed
force against civilians did not
ultimately succeed in bringing
down Solidarity. The movement
re-emerged as a coherent opposition, putting an end to the
communist regime with the ascendance of Walesa as the country’s first freely elected president.
Mr. Walesa is alleged to have held
the codename Bolek, and the authors seek to prove that under
this name the Solidarity leader
provided Poland’s security arm of
the militia, the SB, with information about his colleagues between
1970 and 1976. The announcement
of the book came on the 25th anniversary of the former president’s
awarding of the Nobel Peace Prize.
Mr. Walesa is not amused, and even
went on national television to say
that he in fact knows Bolek personally, and unless the authors of the
report don’t divulge the real identity of the SB officer, Mr. Walesa
will do it himself. What will happen next is anyone’s guess, but
it does underline that no one can
hide from the continuing IPN witch
hunt, no matter how much good
their subjects have done for the
Polish nation.
Saviour of Warsaw
Ghetto Children Dies
Adelina Krupski
Irena Sendler, a Polish social worker who saved the lives of around
2,500 Jewish children during World
War II, died in a Wasaw hospital
last month at the age of 98.
As head of the children’s department for Zegota, the Council for
Aid to Jews, Sendler and her assistants were able to enter the
Warsaw Ghetto under the pretext
of inspecting sanitary conditions
during a typhus outbreak. Together
they contrived ways to smuggle
out babies and small children,
sometimes in baskets, suitcases, or
chests, sparing them certain death
in Nazi extermination camps.
Once outside the ghetto, the children were taken to trusted Polish
families, and later placed in orphanages and convents. Sendler
kept track of the children’s original
and new identities by hiding lists
of their names in jars in the hope
that they could find their families
once the war ended.
Sendler was arrested and tortured
by the Gestapo in October 1943.
After refusing to divulge any information, she was ordered to be
killed but was secretly freed when
fellow members of the Zegota
group bribed German guards.
A Catholic esteemed by Jews,
Sendler was among the first to be
honoured by Israel’s Yad Vashem
Holocaust memorial. Despite her
great courage, Sendler denied she
was a hero.
Krakow Post JUNE 2008 7
www.krakowpost.com
News Poland
School’s Out for Some
<< Continued from
4
Krakow home.
One-day strike by teachers in Poland
By a typical twist of eastern
fate, Lem was taught mathematics as a schoolboy in
Lwow (today Lviv, Ukraine) by
Mr.
Ingarden’s
grandfather, the distinguished philosopher Roman Ingarden.
Krzysztof
Ingarden
will
continue to cooperate with
The Garden of Experiments,
which is a work in progress.
A pavilion and a pond are in
the pipeline, and numerous
events are planned.
John Walczak
T
eachers in Poland went
on a one-day strike on
May 27th demanding
pay rises. The Polish
Teachers’ Union estimates that
about 70% of schools nationally
took part. Its head, Slawomir
Broniarz, appealed to parents
to display understanding for
the teachers’ protest and to
care for pupils at home.
Apart from a 50 percent pay
rise by the end of 2010, teachers want to retain the right to
early retirement after 30 years
of work regardless of their age
and other benefits laid down in
Some children in Poland got an extra holiday
the Teachers’ Charter. Slawomir
Broniarz said in a TV interview, “This strike did
day of the strike. Broniarz said that no child who
not have to take place were it not for a passive atwould come to school that day would be turned
titude displayed by the government and months
away – they would be looked after.
of silence on its part.”
Deputy minister of education Krystyna Szumilas
Education minister Katarzyna Hall said that head
said the government would hold talks with the
teachers were responsible for the care and safety
teachers’ unions in order to prevent another posof those pupils who turned up at school on the
sible strike in September.
London Youth Convicted
of Murdering Pole
John Walczak
A
17-year-old man was
unanimously
found
guilty on May 22nd
of murdering a Polish
nursing assistant after starting
a gunfight with another 17year-old in southeast London
last year. Magda Pniewska, 26,
died instantly from a head shot
after she accidentally walked
into crossfire on a housing estate in New Cross.
Armel “Toner” Gnango was the
hooded youth said by witnesses to have been grinning as he
fired his 9 mm pistol at another
masked gun-toting teenager.
The fight was thought to be
over a £100 drug debt.
Gnango did not fire the fatal
shot, but was convicted of murder because he was involved in
the gun battle that led to Miss
Pniewska’s death. It is one of
the first criminal cases in England in which a defendant has
been convicted of murder despite not firing the fatal shot
nor intending to kill the victim.
Gnango insisted that it was his
rival who fired the fatal shot.
However, Gnango is criminally
liable because he was jointly
responsible for the act that led
to the murder. The other teenager who fired the fatal shot is
on police bail. He has not been
charged because of a lack of
evidence.
Miss Pniewska was walking
home from work whilst talking
on her mobile to her sister Elzbieta Luby in Poland. Yards away,
Gnango had crouched behind a
car, taking aim at his rival. As
the youths exchanged fire — at
least six empty cartridges were
found — a stray bullet hit Miss
Pniewska. Speaking of the moment that she realised her sister had been hit, Ms. Luby said:
“I heard several shots.” Ms Luby
asked: “Who’s shooting? What’s
going on?”
It was then that Ms. Luby heard
the fatal shot. “I heard Magda’s
last breath. I heard when she
fell down. There was silence,
then I heard two more shots.”
Both gunmen were unharmed
and fled. Despite frantic telephone calls, Ms. Luby and her
parents had to wait seven hours
before discovering that Miss
Pniewska was dead.
Anna Krochmal, director of
the garden, is brimming with
ideas for the enterprise, citing a bookshop, a café, not
to mention a general expansion across more hectares
of parkland: “The garden is
especially magical at night,
when the lights shine up
through the trees,’’ she says.
“We are even planning yoga
and Milonga dances - the
possibilities are endless!”
Thus far, children have wasted no time in getting to grips
with the garden’s gleaming
installations.
Youngsters
have carte blanche to bang
on gongs, jump on trampolines and dangle from telegraphs. And if one of the
experiments is broken by
an over-enthusiastic pair of
hands, it can be confidently
assumed that one man would
not be in the least bit troubled – Stanislaw Lem. Indeed,
some of the funniest passages in Lem’s memoir are his
descriptions of the fates of
his childhood toys, most of
which he smashed to smithereens with great relish.
Nuns on the Runway
Julie Land
Last month, facing falling numbers of enrolments in trainees to
become priests, monks and nuns,
the Polish Catholic Church decided to change its public image. A
number of Polish churches held a
fashion show and promotional fair
at the Catholic University in Lublin. At the university’s Collegium
John Paul II, nuns (but not priests
or monks) walked up and down
a catwalk decorated with a red
carpet and displayed habits from
different nunneries throughout
Poland.
The fair also boasted PowerPoint
presentations, films, prayers, souvenirs, and booths where participants could talk to monks, priests
and nuns and become acquainted
with their way of life. The festivities peaked with a cake baking contest, in which both orders
of monks and nuns participated.
All of the fanfare was made in an
attempt to boost the number of
young people interested in beginning a career within the Catholic
Church.
The dramatic fall in the number
of trainees over the last few years
(last year alone those taking vows
of commitment to the church fell
by 25 percent from the previous
year) is a problem not just for the
Catholic Church in Poland, but for
the whole of Europe, as 25 percent of Europe’s Catholic clergy
are trained in Poland. It remains
to be seen if the employment of
habit fashion shows will boost
those interested in a life devoted
to God.
8 Krakow Post JUNE 2008
www.krakowpost.com
News Poland
Self-Defence on the Defence
Crime Flies
Sex scandal rocks controversial political party
Polish criminals are being flown back home
on special “con air” flights
Ania Bienkowska
C. Hazen
E
very month a plane
touches down in Warsaw and a shackled
shuffling row of men
disembarks, each carrying a single plastic bag of possessions.
This is the new “con air” flight,
deporting Polish criminals who
have fled abroad to England,
been caught, and are now being
sent back to the homeland to
face incarceration.
“What me, worry?” / photo Natalia Dobryszycka, natalia-natalie.blog.pl
W
hile the journalists
wait on the outside,
inside the trial of
Samoobrona (SelfDefence) party leader Andzej
Lepper and former deputy Stanislaw Lyzwinski continues in
the circular court in Piotrkow.
Since May 6th both men stand
on trial for soliciting sexual favours from females employed
in the party office.
Lepper was charged in November 2007 for exploiting his public position as a Samoobrona
leader to force Aneta Krawczyk,
a former Samoobrona employee, into sexual relations with the
promise of employment. The
charges were brought against
him after Lepper lost the parliamentary elections and also lost
his immunity to prosecutions.
The events in question allegedly took place in 2001-2002.
If charged, Lepper faces a maximum of eight years in prison.
Lyzwinski faces even more serious charges; if convicted he
will face up to 10 years in prison. He is accused of demanding and accepting sexual favors
from four women, and rape. He
is also accused of harassment
and threatening that denial of
sexual favors would lead to the
dismissal of the women from
their positions and the party.
The so-called “Samoobrona sex
scandal” or “sex-gate” began
in December 2006 after the
publication of an investigative
reporting piece appearing in
Gazeta Wyborcza. The article,
based on the testimony of Aneta Krawczyk, claimed that she
was hired as the director in the
Lodz office of the Samoobrona
party after performing sexual
favours. When journalist Marcin Kaci interviewed Krawczyk,
she decided to tell him about
the hiring process, which was
featured in the original article.
Prior to the commencement of
the trial, both men denied the
charges. At the time of the accusations and original publication of Gazeta Wyborcza, Lepper stated that this was no more
than a political witch-hunt.
The scandal has received much
publicity, however the trial is
closed to the media at the request of Krawczyk’s attorney,
Agata Kalinska-Moc, who told
the Polish Press Agency (PAP)
that it was to protect her client, who wanted to avoid media attention. Pawel Hochman,
the chairman of the court, also
explained to Dziennk that the
addressed topics could be so
drastic that they will be inappropriate for direct media coverage.
Needless to say, the highly controversial affair could put an
end to the political careers of
both accused men.
The criminals are offenders who
have absconded from jail in Poland or were awaiting trial. Polish authorities have sent nearly
300 requests to English police
for criminals they suspect have
fled to the UK.
Many are picked
up in England on
minor
charges,
but others commit the same serious crimes they
are wanted for in
Poland.
Shipping
the
criminals
back
home on an individual
basis
was proving very
costly, with the
Polish state footing the bill for the
cost of a regular
seat on a flight
plus two armed
guards escorting
the prisoner - not
to mention the
risk to personnel
and passengers.
Under this system the price of
extraditing 137
men in 2007 cost
upwards of £3
million.
handcuffed for the journey. Not
only does this need a minimal
amount of security officers on
board, but it streamlines the
process for criminals arriving
at airports on pre-scheduled
days once a month.
The deportation flights began
in October 2007, and have parcelled down extraditions costs
to a quarter of what they had
been under the previous system. March’s flight, which carried 10 men back to Poland,
is estimated to have cost just
£8,000. An average of 15 criminals are on board each flight.
Polish-English
extradition has
come a long way
since Polish EU
accession
in
May 2004, as an
ever-increasing
number of immigrants
have
also
increased
the number of
wanted criminals
seeking anonymity abroad. As
about one in five
crimes in England are committed by foreigners, a need of
formalized extradition processes
had long been
highlighted; but
despite a willingness on both
sides to work together, no agreement was made,
in order to not
overburden the
new
accession
state with technological systems which they
could not afford at the time.
“The deportation
flights
began
in October 2007,
and have
parcelled
down extraditions
costs to a
quarter of
the previous system...”
Polish authorities have since
arranged the en masse deportation through the Polish military,
which established the monthly
direct flights solely for shipping criminals.
The planes are rented former
Soviet Anatov troop transports,
stripped down to windowless
hulls with long benches on each
side, to which the criminals are
However, in the past four years,
there has been a steady building process of sharing warrants
and working on extradition
procedures, of which the direct
flights of Polish criminals is the
latest marker. In the extradition
system as it now stands,
requests are granted
>> 9
through the Serious Or-
Krakow Post JUNE 2008 9
www.krakowpost.com
News Poland
Opinion
Mis-alliance
by Thymn Chase
P
Missile Issues / cartoon by Kasia Adamek
<< Continued from
8
ganised Crime Agency (SOCA)
and give Polish authorities 17
days to bring captured criminals back to Poland.
The direct criminal flights became an innovative way to combat the overburdening of judicial systems in both countries.
For Poland, the number of extradition requests has risen by
14 percent in the last year; this
is not only an increase in foreign criminals fleeing abroad as
much as a sign of Poland fully
implementing the European Arrest Warrant (EAW) system that
allows for the process of criminal transfer between EU countries. The increase in criminals,
however, has overburdened the
Polish administration in bringing them all back - 257 individual flights in total.
The English system was similarly overburdened. To further
ease the effects of open borders on their judicial system,
the English government began
a
controversial
programme
that offered foreign criminals
£3,000 to serve their sentence
in their home country. The con
air flights are allowing for this
unpopular programme to be
phased out.
While the flights solve many of
the problems faced in international criminal matters in the
EU, the 8-month-old system is
still experiencing some teething problems. In January 2008,
much to public outcry, lawyers
had successfully argued for the
release of two violent Polish
offenders who had fled warrants in Poland and been jailed
for crimes committed again in
England. Extradition had gone
through, but Polish authorities failed to arrange the con
air flight in time, and since
they had been jailed for three
weeks past the 17-day extradition deadline - a violation of
their human rights - they were
set free.
Even when the criminals are not
released, frustration still remains, as when the flights are
not arranged by the deadline,
the issue must go back to court
for permission to extend the
time limit extradition prisoners
can be held. This happened last
December when the direct flight
was delayed due to fog.
Of 19 men currently awaiting
extradition, nine are already
past the 17-day mark.
In the wake of Gordon Brown
refusing the House of Lords’
request to set caps on immigration, foreign criminals are
just another facet to the often
hyperbolized problems of immigrants overburdening social
systems. At the very least, the
“con air” flights create a picture
with a punch: foreign criminals
are being swept up in bulk and
are being dealt with accordingly.
oland has recently taken centre stage in
the vaunted theatre of geo-politics, as
it is the chosen “third site” for the Bush
Administration’s anti-ballistic missile
defence shield. The negotiations have entered
their second year but are rapidly approaching
a boiling point. Bush and his advisors are frustrated and visibly annoyed at Polish PM Donald Tusk’s refusal to simply roll over to US requests, which is the response Washington has
grown accustomed to from other Polish leaders,
specifically ones of the twin-brother varieties.
siles in Poland poses a strategic threat to Poland
itself. This line of reasoning is a bit tough to swallow. If the US places missiles in Poland, even for
defensive purposes, Poland would immediately
be susceptible to attacks from any third parties,
i.e. Russia or Iran, wishing to cripple US strategic
military assets. In fact Putin and newly-elected
Russian PM Dmitry Medvedev have both recently reiterated that the US plan threatens Russia’s
national security and if a missile site were to be
completed then Russia would immediately target nuclear warheads at Poland. Not so friendly.
On Tuesday May 13th Tusk announced that Poland was turning down the US offer of $47 million
to modernize the Polish military in exchange for
allowing the US to install anti-ballistic missiles in
Poland for its “third site.” This decision came after a year of negotiations between the US and Poland, which started out quite favourable for the US
shield in May 2007 under the leadership of hawkish former Polish PM Jaroslaw Kaczynski. Since
Tusk and his Civic Platform party were elected in
November, negotiations have grown increasingly
tense and culminated with his decision of May 13th.
According to the Bush Administration, the purpose of the missile shield is to defend Poland,
NATO allies and the EU from potential “rogue”
nations like Iran. With this said the US is refusing to provide Poland with the money, resources and arms to adequately fortify the proposed
missile base and/or modernize the army to sufficiently defend itself against the kind of threats
they would face having such a missile system
placed in Polish territory. “Unless the Americans
significantly improve their offer, we’ll return to
the talks only with Mr. Bush’s successor in place,”
said an official close to both Tusk and Foreign
Minister Radek Sikorski, chief Polish negotiator.
“The United States, our ally, is completely free to
make decisions. We have the rights and we will exercise the right to formulate our own conditions,
our expectations,” said Tusk. He also acknowledged that the missile shield is generally unpopular in Poland and that it would clearly agitate
and antagonize an increasingly aggressive Russia.
In the ensuing weeks after Tusk’s announcement
negotiations have all but broken down. It appears
that Washington has no intention of agreeing to
Tusk’s appeals for a larger aid package and has
flat out refused to provide Poland with Patriot
missiles. The strange twist is that even though
Washington isn’t giving up any strategic concessions, they are growing more insistent that a deal
can and must be reached as soon as possible.
The gap is widening in terms of the rational debate and if negotiations do break down it seems
likely that Bush will try to circumvent diplomacy by signing a deal with Kaczynski himself.
Those that strongly oppose the missile defense
plan can only hope that Tusk has the final say.
He hasn’t succumbed to the East vs. West Cold
War mentality that has dominated the negotiations and media coverage up to this point. And
even though the US and Russia are clearly assuming their well-rehearsed roles of forcing
Poland’s hand, this doesn’t necessarily mean
that Poland has to once again play the pawn.
For more articles about missile defense log onto:
According to recent statements from assistant www.spacewar.com
Secretary of State and head US negotiator Stephen Mull and comments from
Bush himself, it seems as is if
the administration isn’t taking
Tusk seriously at all. Not even
INTERNATIONAL RELATIONS
two days after Tusk’s speech
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10 Krakow Post JUNE 2008
F
GROUP A
or three weeks this
June half of Europe, and a large
part of the world,
will stop what
they’re doing, flock to the
nearest TV screen and crack
open a beer, as they watch
sixteen of the greatest footballing nations on the continent compete for the coveted
European Championship trophy. For the first time in the
competition’s history, Poland will
be amongst
t h o s e
nations.
June 7th, 18:00 Basel, Switzerland
Switzerland
Czech Republic
June 7th, 20:45 Geneva, Switzerland
Turkey
Portugal
June 11th, 18:00 Geneva, Switzerland
Portugal
Czech Republic
June 11th, 20:45 Basel, Switzerland
Turkey
Switzerland
June 15th, 20:45 Basel, Switzerland
Portugal
Switzerland
June 15th, 20:45 Geneva, Switzerland
Czech Republic
Turkey
1
2
3
4
Led
by
Dutch coach Leo
Beenhakker, Poland managed at
their 13th
attempt
to
not
only qualify for the
finals,
but
t o
top their qualifying group
in a memorable
campaign
which included a
2-1 defeat over
Portugal. Despite
topping qualification, Poland
nonetheless find
themselves
in a tough group
comprising
of co-hosts Austria,
a
weaker
team but surely a
threat
on
their home turf, Croatia, one of
the strongest teams in
the qualifying rounds who twice
defeated England, and their old foe – Germany. The Germans are favourites to win
both the group and the tournament, but
with Croatia missing key striker Eduardo da
Silva through injury the Poles look a strong
bet for reaching the quarters.
Results Table Group A P W D L
GD Pts
Quarter Final 1
FINA
June 19th, 20:45 Basel, Switzerland
1st Group A
2nd Group B
June 29th, 20:45
Semi Final 1
Winner Semi Final 1
June 25th, 20:45 Basel, Switzerland
Winner
Winner
Quarter Final 1
Quarter Final 2
Quarter Final 2
June 20th, 20:45 Vienna, Austria
1st Group B
2nd Group A
1
2
3
4
Results Table Group B P W D L
GD Pts
GROUP B
Group A looks to be the weakest of the four
groups with Portugal and Czech Republic
favourites to go through ahead of Turkey
and co-hosts Switzerland, whereas Group C
has been labelled 2008’s “group of death,”
with giants France, Italy and Holland drawn
against one another, along with a strong Romanian side. Group D looks to be the most
open of the four, with Euro 2004 champions
Greece set to play serial underachievers
Spain, as well as Scandinavia’s only representative, Sweden, and a promising Russian
team. Famously there will be no place for
England, Scotland, Wales or Ireland, all of
whom suffered from disappointing qualifying campaigns.
The action begins on June 7th, at 6 pm when
Switzerland take on the Czech Republic at
St. Jakob-Park in Basel, Switzerland. Group
games will take place until June 18th, with
quarter finals kicking off the day after, before a small break precedes the semi finals
on the 25th and 26th June. The final of the
2008 UEFA European Football Championship
takes place on 29th June at Vienna’s Ernst
Happel Stadium.
2 0 0 8
June 8th, 18:00 Vienna, Austria
Austria
Croatia
June 8th, 20:45 Klegenfurt, Austria
Poland
Germany
June 12th, 18:00 Klegenfurt, Austria
Germany
Croatia
June 12th, 20:45 Vienna, Austria
Poland
Austria
June 16th, 20:45 Klegenfurt, Austria
Croatia
Poland
June 16th, 20:45 Vienna, Austria
Germany
France
D
espite taking part in seven World
Cup Finals, Poland qualified for the
Euro Finals for only the first time in 2008.
The bookies have them at 41/1 to win the
tournament. The Germans are favourites
at 9/2, whereas Austria bring up the
rear at 100/1. Cristiano Ronaldo
is this year’s favourite to win
2008’s Golden Boot.
C
o-hosts Switzerland will be hoping
for a bit more luck than in World
Cup 2006. After drawing 0-0 with France
they defeated both Togo and South Korea
2-0 only to lose to Ukraine on penalties
following a 0-0 draw. They became
the first team in the tournament’s history to go home
without conceding a goal in
regulation time.
E
ngland may have not made the
Euro 2008 finals, but their fans may
take some consolation from the fact that
they inflicted on Austria their worst ever
defeat almost exactly one hundred years
ago. On June 8th 1908 5,000 spectators watched England beat their
hosts 11-1 in the Hohe Warte
Stadium in Vienna.
WINN
K i c k s
O f f !
Krakow Post JUNE 2008 11
Polska Song
While some were mourning England’s
failure to qualify for Euro 2008, two
industrious young Brits - William Hetherington and Rupert Slade - decided to
find another team to support, Poland,
and wanted to encourage others to do
the same. So they wrote a song about
it! Below are the lyrics to the “Polska
Song (Come Back Tomaszewski* - All is
Forgiven).”
You can listen to this gem at their
MySpace page:
www.myspace.com/londontowarsaw
GROUP C
June 9th, 18:00 Zurich, Switzerland
Romania
France
June 9th, 20:45 Berne, Switzerland
Italy
Netherlands
June 13th, 18:00 Zurich, Switzerland
Romania
Italy
*Jan Tomaszewski was the goalkeeper of the
Polish team in 1973, who famously kept England
from qualifying for the World Cup that year.
June 13th, 20:45 Berne, Switzerland
France
Netherlands
June 17th, 20:45 Berne, Switzerland
Romania
Netherlands
S
itting in the pub
The final whistle’s still ringing in my
ears
All our hopes are dashed
And summer laughter’s turned to tears
June 17th, 20:45 Zurich, Switzerland
Italy
France
1
2
3
4
Results Table Group C P W D L
GD Pts
But I’m shaken
blues
The
Quarter Final 3
AL
June 21st, 20:45 Basel, Switzerland
1st Group C
2nd Group D
5 Vienna, Austria
Winner Semi Final 2
sound of
singing
full of
pride.
Haven’t
you
heard
the
news?
Poland’s gone and
qualified.
Quarter Final 4
June 22nd, 20:45 Vienna, Austria
1st Group D
2nd Group C
1
2
3
4
Results Table Group D P W D L
GD Pts
GROUP D
June 10th, 18:00 Innsbruck, Austria
Spain
Russia
June 10th, 20:45 Salzburg, Austria
Sweden
Greece
June 14th, 18:00 Innsbruck, Austria
Spain
Sweden
June 14th, 20:45 Salzburg, Austria
Russia
Greece
June 18th, 20:45 Salzburg, Austria
Spain
Greece
June 18th, 20:45 Innsbruck, Austria
Sweden
Russia
S
from my
Semi Final 2
June 26th, 20:45 Vienna, Austria
Winner
Winner
Quarter Final 3
Quarter Final 4
NER
In the final game,
All we needed was a draw,
But Beckham couldn’t bend it,
And now three lions roar no more
panish heartthrob Enrique Iglesias
has been chosen to sing the official
Euro 2008 song “Can You Hear Me?” on
the night of the grand final in Vienna.
UEFA commercial director Philippe Margraff said: “Enrique is the perfect
choice for us - he is an international superstar who loves
football and has European
roots.”
N
ot to be outdone, Jamaican raggamuffin, Shaggy, has chipped in with
not one but two UEFA-endorsed efforts of
his own, entitled “Like a Superstar,” and
“Feel The Rush.” The video of the latter
features official mascots Trix and Flix
canvassing support in the Caribbean before chartering a
jet back to Europe with the
popstar in tow.
T
he official match ball for 2008,
made by Adidas, has been fittingly
named “EUROPASS.” Silver and black in
colour, the balls has a special “goosebump” texture which will help players
control the ball, no matter what the
weather. The official slogan of
the tournament is “Expect
Emotion.” Preferably tears
from Ronaldo...
Polska,
Polska, naprzod
Polska,
You’re our
boys in white and
red.
Polska,
Polska, Come on
Poland. Go where others fear to tread.
From London to Warsaw
From The King’s Head to The Swan
Polska, Polska, naprzod Polska
Together we are strong.
Don’t look so down
Says Magda pulling me another beer,
Wipe away that frown
And find yourself another team to cheer.
Whatever colours we wear
Our passion is the same
‘Cos football’s here to share
So come and join us in the beautiful game
Well my team are firing blanks
And the summer fills me with woe
I may not know Krakow from Gdansk
But I’m willing to give it a go
Polska, Polska, naprzod Polska,
You’re our boys in white and red.
Polska, Polska, Come on Poland
Go where others fear to tread.
From London to Warsaw
From The King’s Head to The Swan
Polska, Polska, naprzod Polska
Together we are strong.
12 Krakow Post JUNE 2008
www.krakowpost.com
Sporting Post
Rocky Road for Poland to Euro
That Other June Championship
Daniël van Hoven
C. Hazen
T
he road to the Euro 2008
appears to be a rocky
one for the Polish national football squad, who are
about to make their debut on
this football platform. A lot of
happenings that took place over
the last couple of months have
made the enthusiastic Polish
football fans a
bit more skeptical,
compared
to last autumn,
when
Poland
clinched
their
nomination after a 2-0 win
against Belgium.
Poland won their
qualification
group, beating
tough competition from Serbia, Finland and
Portugal.
Poland’s football scandal
of the football scandal taking
place under his responsibility.
Ever since, it is believed that
Beenhakker might not last long
enough as head coach of Poland
to see the qualifications for
World Cup 2010 starting this
September.
leaving Real Madrid star Raul
out of the Spanish squad, Beenhakker decided to not even consider Polish football icon Jerzy
Dudek in his preliminary selection. Both presumed standin goalies Lukasz Fabianski
(Arsenal) and Tomasz Kuszczak (Manchester United) have
played far
fewer official games
than Dudek
did at Real
M a d r i d
this
season, which
makes the
decision remarkable,
since
the
squad lacks
real international experience.
B e e n hakker’s
Photo / Álvaro Isidoro www.flickr.com/photos/95118645@N00
Dodgy results
search for a creative midfieldPoland’s focus on getting preer resulted in Brazilian-born
pared for their maiden match
Another reason for the press
Roger from Legia, who (against
at EURO 2008 went off track
conference was to prevent a
Poland’s procedures) received
when it became apparent a lot
further drop of morale, after
Polish citizenship on April
of the country’s football offihaving suffered a humiliating
17th, having been in Poland
cials were involved in the larg3-0 defeat in a friendly match
only three years, rather than
est football scandal the country
against the USA in late March.
the minimum required five.
has seen since the downfall of
And things have not got any
The Brazilian, now controvercommunism in 1989. Match fixbetter since: Poland’s first real
sially turned Polish, is part of
ing took place amongst club
preparation game for the Euro
the 25 men large preliminary
presidents, referees, officials
2008 was on Friday May 23rd
squad. Every team is allowed to
of the football governing body
against the very modest FC
bring 20 field players and three
of Poland (PZPN), which was apSchaffhausen from the Swiss
goalkeepers to Euro 2008.
parently aware of the situation
2nd league. Jacek Krzynowek
without taking action against it,
saved the day by scoring the
Solid on paper, weak in pracand about 30 teams.
only goal, but it must have wortise
ried Beenhakker to see Poland
Beenhakker speaks out
struggle against such a small
Despite all controversy, Poland
team, while more serious oppowill still be able to present an
Although the scandal is not disition awaits.
impressive force on the pitch,
rectly linked to the players in
in particular the highly regardthe national squad, Poland’s
In particular the last preparaed Celtic goalie Artur Boruc and
head coach Leo Beenhakker
tion game against Denmark (on
the talented Ebi Smolarek, who
immediately organised a press
June 1st) will be a good measure
got his first chance in profesconference on April 16th to exto see where Poland stands: tosional football under Leo Beenpress his deep concern about
gether with Germany, Denmark
hakker while both were active
the situation and the possible
historically is Poland’s toughfor Dutch club Feyenoord, back
impact it could have on his team
est opponent, suffering their
in 2000.
while preparing for the Euro
biggest defeat ever (8-0, back
2008 tournament, and to his
in 1948) and in modern history
However, the question remains
own position as head coach of
(5-1, in 2004) against this side.
how Poland will perform. PoPoland. Beenhakker displayed
land has never before qualified
a sophisticated hint of solidarSelection
for the Euro main tournament,
ity with PZPN president Michal
and during the last two editions
Listkiewicz, who announced his
Maybe of a lesser impact than
of the World Cup for which they
resignation as a consequence
Spanish head coach Aragones
did qualify, they never passed
Our sports contributor C. Hazen muses about that other
June championship, the Stanley Cup Finals, and what
place hockey holds in this football-obsessed continent.
During a recent Premier League game, I was getting into it with an
Australian about why European football is so popular. Not in that
way; even as an American, I appreciate and even, daresay, LIKE the
sport.
He was waxing poetic over his beer about the need the pitch fulfills
in the human heart, not just of community, of pride, of being a part
of the fan base together, but the field as a stage, for a miniature
war of sorts, for dramas to unfold, for aggressions to get spent.
Sports in a way are the equivalent of male soap operas – balance
of power, aggrandizing emotions, hyperbolic events; but while the
pay-offs in daytime TV are love and intrigue, in sports, it’s running
circles around your opponent and perhaps, if you’re lucky, that
perfectly placed penalty shot. You get to know the characters, the
players, you watch their game grow, their story unfold, how they
interact with new environs, this team, that league.
That led me to wonder, what did my favourite sport, ice hockey,
give back to me? What need in my heart, what characteristics did I
identify with, that made it so satisfactory to watch above all other
sports? Sure, there’s grace and speed. But really, truly, with hockey,
you can’t discount the violence as well.
I’m not going to defend the fighting in hockey as integral to the
game. But any true fan will have to admit their heart skips a bit
when they see the gloves come off. I’m not a violent person; I
don’t like to watch boxing. So why do I like it when two hockey
players go head to head?
It’s personal responsibility. You don’t wait for the referee to blow
the whistle; someone messes with one of your teammates, on the
next pass you give that extra nudge, a slight hit, let him know it
didn’t go unnoticed. It’s retribution. Even a legal hit can draw some
blood, and avenging fists need to fly, taking down a bully.
In the midst of Stanley Cup play-offs and finding that out about
myself, that I value those things, I am indeed amused. Still this
November, don’t think I’m voting Libertarian.
the group stages, having won
only one out of three games per
tournament.
Also from a statistical point of
view, the odds are against the
Poles. Germany is one of the top
favourites and Austria is one of
the hosting countries. Poland
has never won a match against
the Germans, or an organising
country of a big tournament for
that matter. Slight hope can be
drawn from good and unbeaten records against Croatia and
Austria over the past years.
Leo Beenhakker has said to aim
for the quarter finals: very ambitious for a national team that
hasn’t played any matches in
advanced rounds on major tournaments since 1986. But these
are all statistics from Poland’s
World Cup history. When it
comes to Euro, Poland still has
a blank sheet. Experience shows
that teams with difficult or no
preparation often perform well
on the main Euro event: ill prepared Netherlands (1988), Denmark (1992) and Greece (2004)
even took the trophy home.
So maybe the rocky road that
Beenhakker and his Polish men
are on is the right way to success after all.
The UEFA Euro 2008™ football
European Championships will
be held from June 7 – June 29
2008 in eight cities across Switzerland and Austria. Poland
will play June 8 (vs. Germany),
June 12 (vs. Croatia) and June
16 (vs. Austria). The final will be
played in Vienna on June 29th.
All matches can be viewed in Poland via Polsat and Polsat Sport.
For more information about the
participating teams, the players
and the rosters, please visit the
tournament’s official website:
www.euro2008.uefa.com
Krakow Post JUNE 2008 13
www.krakowpost.com
Business
The Costs of Euro 2008
John Beauchamp
W
hat with Europe’s biggest football spectacle
around the corner, a
few words wouldn’t go amiss
on Euro 2008, being held in
Austria and Switzerland - both
outstanding football nations,
I’m sure you’ll agree. For many,
Euro 2008 is an opportunity to
see some excellent football, as
well as take in the sights and
sounds of some beautiful cities
of the host countries.
All this comes at a price though.
For many Poles lucky enough to
get tickets to the matches to
be held during the European
championships, there are still
a number of costs that have to
be dealt with. A business daily,
Gazeta Prawna, recently ran
an article on the expenses that
Poles would have to reckon with
if they went to the first three
matches during the competition
in Austria (the Polish national
team is not playing any of its
group matches in Switzerland).
So, how much you ask? Well,
the sum given is five thousand
zlotys (over two thousand US
dollars), certainly not a number
to be sniffed at, for an eight-day
stay. Much of that sum admittedly goes on accommodation
when in Austria for the match-
es, and, checking prices, rooms
go for around eighty Euro a
night. Then there’s the getting
there. It’s all planes, trains, and
automobiles, and even though
flying is an option, it is by far
the most expensive, with trains
and cars getting you there at
a fraction of the price. There
are two trains a day from Krakow to Vienna, from where you
can get a direct connection to
Klagenfurt, and the drive from
Krakow to Klagenfurt shouldn’t
take you longer than eight or
nine hours.
With prices being what they are,
it is also worth noting that for
players of the national teams,
the championship can be a nice
little earner, especially if you
have golden boots. Even though
figures are hard to find on the
estimated earnings of national
teams during Euro 2008, one
can but imagine the millions of
Euro involved.
Yet of course most of us won’t
be able to go to see the bialoczerwoni, the white-and-reds,
play in the championship. But
judging by the amount of cafes
and bars in Krakow that will be
showing the match, how much
is going to be spent on beer in
Personalise Your Fund
the coming month is anyone’s
guess. Many have mixed views
on the fact that the rights have
been bought up by a private
station, Polsat, which allegedly paid 10 million Euros for
the rights to show Euro 2008
matches. They did a cheeky
number by releasing an advert
on television that proclaimed
triumphantly
that
matches
would only be shown on their
digital satellite platform (in order to try and lessen the dent
of the cost from decoder sales),
even though in reality all matches will be shown on the regular
terrestrial channel, it now turns
out. But how the national public broadcaster didn’t manage
to get the rights to such an important sporting fixture is rather depressing, considering it is
also the first time that Poland is
actually taking part in the UEFA
tournament.
Evidently the cost of Euro 2008
is absolutely huge. Looking
ahead to Euro 2012 in Poland
and the Ukraine, the cost can
only be greater, as the amount
to be spent on infrastructure
is going to be colossal. Huge.
Wondrous. Magnificent? Perhaps… For now it’s time to wave
those omnipresent Polska flags,
free when you buy six cans of
Tyskie at your local off-licence.
Mada Matyjaszek
I
nvestment fund groups have
had a long history in Poland. The first exchange in
Poland, the Warsaw Mercantile
Exchange, was established in
1817. Before the 2nd World War
seven stock exchanges were in
operation - in 1939 the institutions were closed, and would
remain that way for decades.
(II pillar), amounting to 7.3
percent of the gross salary. By
these means, each employee
automatically possesses shares
in pension funds. Private subjects operate the Open Pension
Funds, and participation in OPF
is obligatory. The third pillar
represents voluntary insurance
in private institutions.
A new Polish law, titled “The Act
on Public Trading in Securities
and Trust Funds,” enabled the
reconstruction of investment
funds in 1991. The Warsaw
Stock Exchange was founded
on the 12th of April, 1991, just
after the adoption of the capital market legal framework by
the Polish Parliament. In 1992
the Warsaw Stock Exchange experienced a major high which
provoked the establishment of
the first investment fund jointstock company, which started
managing the first trust fund
and selling its units. In 1997
five funds were managed by
three joint-stock companies.
Over 3.5 million Poles have already invested their savings
in investment funds, but the
majority of them are still newcomers, and have never experienced a whole economic cycle
of the stock exchange. Therefore, they lack the experience
in reacting to a long-lasting and
fairly deep drop of shares’ prices at this point, after the euphoric bull market in 2006 and
2007. In the following situation
the new investors can only rely
on theoretical knowledge, on
good sense or on experienced
investors.
The increasing popularity of
investment funds among the
Polish population was not accompanied by a rise of knowledge in this field. And yet ironically, Polish society is faced
with the process of investing
in funds on a daily basis, as a
new social security reform (retirement pension) is based on
these funds. Money from each
individual’s obligatory contribution, amounting to 12.22
percent of an individual’s gross
salary, goes to the Social Insurance Institution (ZUS) (I pillar)
and to the Open Pension Funds
Experts suggest that before
you start to build your portfolio of investment funds you
should first define yourself as
an investor and realize the extent to which your funds are
personalised. Subsequently, it
will be time for a further level
of initiation – a more technical
approach, consisting of managing and limiting risk as well as
studying market trends. Such
expertise can only come with
proper advice and instruction,
something
unavailable
(for
now) for the average new Polish
investor.
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tel.: 012 428 50 69
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14 Krakow Post JUNE 2008
www.krakowpost.com
Technology
iT’s Coming!
Thymn Chase
I
f you happen to be one of
the 16,000 Polish mobile users who are lucky enough to
have an iPhone in your possession, you can stop reading…
For everyone else you can start
dancing in the streets because
on May 7th French Telecomowned Orange inked a deal
with Apple to bring the iPhone
to Orange users in Austria, Belgium, the Dominican Republic,
Egypt, Jordan, Poland, Portugal,
Romania, Slovakia and Switzerland. This announcement
comes after months of fierce
competition and infighting between Poland’s telecom operators concerning the rights to introduce the iPhone to the Polish
market.
This is indeed exciting news
for hundreds of thousands of
mobile users across Poland
who have been eagerly awaiting the arrival of easily one of
the most hyped gadgets of the
21st century (outside of Japan
Blogosphere
B
alconies are a sacred
and little discussed
part of modern Polish culture. When I
first moved to Poland my flat
had a balcony and I thought
it was the coolest thing ever.
Almost nobody in the UK has
one; you either have a garden
or nothing. I quickly spotted
that almost everyone in Poland
has a balcony, which made
me feel a bit less special but
didn’t detract from the essential coolness of the thing. Over
the years I’ve slowly come to
understand the central role of
the balcony in Polish life.
1. Dog “exercise” area
Polish people like dogs, the
bigger and noisier the better.
Most Polish people also live in
tiny flats in massive residential
blocks – not a good combination. When the incessant barking
of your 50 kilo Rottweiler gets
too much you can simply shoo
it onto the balcony. Suddenly
the dog has a whole new world
of exciting things to bark at, but
at least the pain is then being
shared by 800 other people.
2. Clothes drying area
Most balconies are permanently
festooned with dripping laun-
of course). The iPhone will be
ushered onto the Polish
market by none
other than
TP SA
Group,
which is
Orange’s
p a r e n t
company in
Poland.
TP
is the abbreviation for Telokomunikacja
Polska, the largest telecom company in Central
Europe and which
is listed on both
the Warsaw and
London Stock Ex-
changes. In a behind the scenes
note, France Telecom is one of
the largest foreign stockholders in the TP SA Group, so it was
unlikely that the tender would
have gone to any of the other
Polish mobile providers. Sorry
Play.
On May 16th Wojciech Jablczynski, spokesman for TP SA,
spoke out about the agreement but revealed very little about the lucrative deal.
When asked about which
iPhone models would be
offered and how much
they would cost, he
simply replied that
he couldn’t reveal
any such details.
Instead he rejoiced with the
rest of the increasingly
tech-savvy
nation, exclaiming
that they were
very happy to have
signed the deal. Orange hopes to have
the phones on the
Courtesy of Apple
Polish market before the end of the
year.
Spirit AeroSystems (Europe) Limited
Manufacturing Engineer- Mielec Poland
Must have a very high degree of proficiency in written and verbal
communication in both Polish and English so as to support technical
translation between Spirit AeroSystems and their In-Country supplier.
Needs to demonstrate at least two years experience in a detail
fabrication and machining environment, ideally including an awareness of
implementing/embodying engineering changes.
An ability to work in and travel between, both the UK and Poland is
essential as well as other international travel as required. The candidate
must be able to develop and maintain close working relationships with a
range of Internal and External Stakeholders.
Experience within the commercial aerospace industry is desirable, along
with an appreciation of the complexity of supply chain challenges.
S
pirit AeroSystems is the worlds leading supplier of commercial
aerostructures and Systems. It’s European Division, based in
Prestwick Scotland, produces components &structures for Boeing,
Airbus and Hawker Beechcraft.
Please apply stating salary expectations to: [email protected]
Ten Uses for a Polish Balcony
island1, The Polandian
dry. I heard recently that the
government is trying to ban this
practice. They have about as
much chance of banning snow
in the Arctic. On the TV news
report I saw there were a lot a
red-faced women of a certain age
with fiercely crossed arms: I’m
not sure what they were saying
about the idea but it was quite
high pitched and didn’t sound
conciliatory.
3. Underwear display area
Polish people pretend they’re
quite conservative and moral
but in fact they like nothing
better than showing off their
skimpies to the neighbors. I
have no idea why. The practice
of leaving underwear out on the
balcony “to dry” often leads to a
phenomenon known as “fairy’s
panties;” this occurs when you
wake up in the morning after an
unexpectedly blustery night to
find your balcony festooned with
g-strings and boxer shorts that
have rained down from neighboring balconies. It was four years
before I actually had to buy new
underwear.
4. “Discussion” arena
A balcony is a great place for
a frank and open exchange of
views with the neighbors; if
they’re too timid to come out
onto their own balcony to face
you it’s often possible to shout
directly through their open
windows from your balcony.
Alternatively you can wait until
you see them passing in the
street below and share you views
with the entire neighborhood.
Combat by mop can sometimes
be observed 30 meters off the
ground between housefraus
on neighboring platforms; it’s
almost heraldic.
5. Staring platform
Polish people like to stare. If
staring were an Olympic event
the Poles would walk away with
gold every time… in fact they’d
probably stick around for a bit of
extra staring first, but you know
what I mean. The balcony is a
custom-built staring platform. I
have a theory this is what they
were invented for in the first
place. You’ll sometimes see it
in real estate ads: “Fifth floor
balcony, comfortable railings for
leaning on, plenty of things to
stare at.”
6. Panic and hand-wringing
potential
Poles like a good panic and bout
of hand-wringing as much as the
next man and balconies provide
endless opportunities. By far the
favorite is “balcony collapse”
panic. Hardly a month goes by
without someone somewhere
announcing that communistera balconies are structurally
unsound and likely to collapse at
any moment. Men with overalls
and huge bellies come round
periodically from the municipal works office and give every
balcony in the area a couple of
whacks with a massive hammer,
then everyone feels better for a
while...
To read more, visit >>
www.polandian.wordpress.com
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Assistance with accommodation
Krakow Post JUNE 2008 15
www.krakowpost.com
Culture
LOWDOWN ON LOOTED ART
According to official research,
some 50,000 works of art in
Poland were “damaged, taken
abroad or lost in unknown
circumstances” as a result of
the Second World War. Those
statistics are far from complete. What’s more, they only
deal with collections that existed within Poland’s post-1945
borders.
Krakow emerged from the war
in remarkable physical shape
compared to many other Polish
and Central European cities,
but looting was a problem
from the outset of the twopronged, Nazi-Soviet invasion.
Some heirlooms were miraculously recovered, whilst others
remain untraced until the
present.
Images courtesy of The Commission for Looted Art in Europe (CLAE)
Treasure Plucked From the Trash
Looted cross returns to Poland after 60 year blip
Nick Hodge
The Limoges processional cross
was discovered amidst extraordinary
circumstances
after
an apartment clear-out in the
Austrian town of Zell am See
in 2004. An elderly resident
of the town, moving into an
old people’s home, had filled
a skip with unwanted junk. A
neighbour, Mrs. Lydia Gruber,
a devout Catholic, caught sight
of a plastic bag containing cutlery and a large and beautifully
ornamented processional cross
and was allowed to rescue the
cross from certain destruction.
Owing to lack of space, Mrs.
Gruber had to store the relic
under her sofa until last year
when she showed it to a neighbour who prompted her to have
the treasure analysed by expert
hands.
In August 2007 the cross was
taken to the local mining museum at Leogang, where the
wheels were set in motion for
a professional investigation.
Before long, Salzburg police
had established that the rightful heirs were the descendents
of Princess Izabela Czartoryska
(1830-1899), founder of the
famed pre-war museum collection at Goluchow Castle.
In May this year, Count Adam
Zamoyski, great-grandson of
the Princess and president of
the Princes Czartoryski Foundation in Krakow, travelled to Austria to accept the cross.
“I am delighted by the recovery
of a precious piece from this
once magnificent collection,”
he said, adding that “any action
that led to the recovery of further pieces would not go unrewarded.”
“
The chequered journey of the
cross began in June 1939, on
the carriageway of the family’s
home. However, the Germans
discovered the hoard in December 1941 and the treasures were
seized and moved to the Nazicontrolled National Museum.
Following the Warsaw Uprising
in 1944, Hitler ordered the collection to be moved to Castle
Mrs. Gruber caught sight of a
plastic bag containing cutlery
“
A 13th century enamel cross,
seized by the Nazis during the
war, has been returned to Poland and is already on display at
Krakow’s Czartoryski Museum.
and a large and beautifully ornamented processional cross...
the eve of the Nazi invasion of
Poland. Princess Ludwika Czartoryska, custodian of the Goluchow collection, moved some
of the most precious artefacts
to Warsaw for safekeeping,
where they were stored under
Fischorn in Zell am See, Austria.
When the war ended, the castle
was looted by local people and
dealers and no trace of the collection was found by the Czartoryski family.
The newly found Limoges Cross
has joined the Czartoryski
Museum, Poland’s oldest public
museum and itself no stranger
to looting. 843 artefacts were
pronounced missing from its
collections in the wake of the
war. Hans Frank, Nazi Governor of the General Government zone of occupied Poland,
cherry-picked several pieces
from the museum’s catalogue,
including Leonardo’s Lady
with an Ermine and Raphael’s
Portrait of a Young Man. The da
Vinci was recovered in 1945,
but an empty frame adorns the
wall where the Raphael once
hung.
Following the return of the cross
last month, Count Zamoyski
expressed his hopes about the
emergence of other pieces:
“We have long suspected that a
significant number of the looted
items found their way into local
homes, and this find appears
to confirm our suppositions,”
he said. “We very much hope
that the people of Zell am See
and the surrounding area will
be moved to consider whether
they have not come across pieces of antique jewellery, glass,
enamel, and similar items that
might be from this collection.”
Anne Webber, co-chair of The
Commission for Looted Art in
Europe, which represents the
heirs, thanked Mrs. Gruber for
taking the first step to identify
the cross.
“If not for her, the cross would
have been destroyed and disappeared for ever,” she said.
“There are so many pieces still
missing from this wonderful
collection and we hope that
news of this restitution will lead
to others being discovered.”
16 Krakow Post JUNE 2008
www.krakowpost.com
nnn
Culture
Culture
Culture
Midsummer Night’s Magic
CULTURE IN BRIEF
Honorary Degree for Spielberg
Walery Eliasz Radzikowski:
Floating Wreaths on the Vistula
Courtesy of The Historical Museum
of the City of Krakow
Krakow Post’s resident
chronicler Angol Anonim reflects on the Wianki tradition
R
eaders taking a Sunday
stroll by the river on the
22nd of June will find some
curious objects tangled
along the banks. Dozens of wreaths
will bob in the water. These sodden
talismans, woven from flowers and
grasses, have been cast into the waters for as long as the Vistula has
flowed. By tradition, the custom
takes place on St. John’s Eve, echoing the pagan Midsummer solstice.
Now, we don’t want to encourage
our readers to forage around in the
river (it’s not as clean as it was in
Prince Krak’s time, and there may
be mutant river monsters), but let’s
imagine for a moment that Krakow
Post’s correspondent is a strapping,
Sir Lancelot sort of a man - a muscular hero who would slay ten dragons before breakfast, and another
ten afterwards. Well, if this brave
fellow were to stoop down and pick
up one of those wreaths, joyous tidings would be on their way to the
young maiden who cast the crown.
A happy marriage would be on the
horizon, not forgetting a crop of
bouncy kiddies and a long life to
boot (less lucky scenarios we shall
return to anon).
Looking back into the mists of history, we can surmise that the Midsummer solstice was an exciting
time for the early Slavs, who were
no doubt ecstatic that winter was
out of the way. A Saxon chronicler
wrote that May was the time “when
every lusty heart beginneth to blossom,” but for the people over in
this neck of the woods, it seems
that the Midsummer solstice was
when things really got cooking.
When St. John’s Eve fell in Old Poland, the folk lit fires across the
land. This was done mainly by water’s edge, be it lakes, streams or
rivers. Men and women danced with
flaming torches, leaping over the
fires and generally having a jolly
time. It was a day when magic was
in the air, not least as the miraculous fern flower was in blossom.
Folk wisdom held that only those
blessed with good fortune would be
able to discover the fabled flower.
Under this pretext, wild young
things ran off into the forests. Technically, the men were searching for
the hallowed fern blossom, whilst
the women were tracking down rare
herbs. However, the old expression
“stracic wianek,” literally “to lose
one’s wreath,” (cherry, if you catch
our pagan drift) might hint at the
real nature of what was going on.
Of course, when it came to the actual throwing of the wreaths, all
kinds of abominable things could go
wrong. If the crown was swept away
out of sight, the luckless lady would
know that wedding bells would not
be ringing in the near future. But
that was a relatively minor setback
compared to some of the other ill
omens. If your wreath sank immediately without a trace, it was
time to throw yourself into the torrents - you might as well, as plague
or death were on the cards either
way.
In Krakow, wreaths were also thrown
in honour of Wanda, the beautiful
princess who threw herself into the
Vistula rather than submit to German Prince Rytygier. St. John’s Eve
was proclaimed the name day of
Wanda, and during the nineteenth
century, when Poland was under
foreign rule, the floating of wreaths
became a patriotic demonstration,
heightened by the symbolism of the
proud princess. The event was organised by public-spirited societies
keen to keep the Polish torch burning. During the interwar years, Wianki continued as a popular event,
and it endured through the communist era, when theatrical and firework displays were added. Martial
Law brought things to an abrupt
halt in 1981, but Wianki returned
with a vengeance in 1992.
Some may scoff at the raucous revelry of today’s show, which involves
heinous drinking and general debauchery. But in many ways, the
wildness seems very much in keeping with the original rite. All the
same, parents still hope that their
daughters will save their “wianek”
for Sir Lancelot types, and not throw
it away on any old tipsy Tomek.
American film director Steven
Spielberg is set to receive an
honorary doctorate from the
Jagiellonian University. The
filmmaker, who spent several
months in Krakow in 1991 during
the filming of Schindler’s List,
has been selected for “awakening universal admiration in
cinematic craftsmanship as well
as a devotion to tradition and
basic human values, which are
visible in his works.” The honoris causa was first introduced
to Krakow’s university in 1816
and Mr. Spielberg will be joining distinguished company. Of
the 300 or so recipients thus far,
legends such as Maria Teresa,
Marie Curie, Jozef Pilsudski and
Pope John Paul II are but a few
of the fabled names. This year,
the honoris causa will also be
bestowed upon Marek Edelman,
the last surviving commander
of the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising.
However, given that Mr. Spielberg has a rather busy diary, the
university has yet to publish a
date for the director to receive
the honour.
A New Director for the
Philharmonic
Tadeusz Strugala, a celebrated
conductor on the international
scene, has been appointed Managing and Artistic Director of the
Krakow Philharmonic Orchestra.
Although born and educated in
Poland, Mr. Strugala has worked
with some 120 orchestras across
the globe, winning a raft of
awards along the way. During
his travels he managed to assemble an extraordinary collection of conductor’s batons,
including nineteenth century
relics from England, Germany
and France. The new director
will kick off the autumn season in Krakow with a tribute to
composer Krzysztof Penderecki,
whose 75th birthday falls in November this year. Amongst other
projects, the conductor is busy
hatching grand plans for 2010,
which sees the 200th anniversary of Chopin’s birth.
GOLDEN OLDIE
Night Train (Pociag) directed by Jerzy Kawalerowicz (1959)
If only the characters themselves could hear the soothing jazz that floats through this film then maybe their hearts
wouldn’t be so dark, and the train would lead them to each other, rather than let them withdraw into themselves.
A dewy-eyed woman (Lucyna Winnicka) eagerly running away from Poland’s James Dean - Cybulski - is forced to
share a sleeping-wagon with one of the chain-smoking, world-weary characters (Leon Niemczyk - seen in Knife in
Water), who we all want to slap back into reality.
Trains encourage introspective journeys, so these strangers are not eager to form a bond. As the night flickers
by we witness failed attempts by Cybulski to be reunited with his lover. In another mysterious scene, we witness
the mass hysteria of bored passengers, who gleefully throw clods of clay at an escaping criminal. At the sea, the
train is emptied, and its sunlit, deserted carriages carry us into self-reflection in a last, pathos-filled shot. Helena
Dąbrowska (conductress) finally has her kind stoicism justly rewarded with a kiss.
Also by Kawalerowicz - Shadow (Cien, 1956), Mother Joan of the Angels (1961), Pharaoh (Faraon, 1966), Quo Vadis? (2001)
Night Train :
Courtesy of The Museum of Cinematography, Lodz
Krakow Post JUNE 2008 17
www.krakowpost.com
Culture
PHOTO OF THE MONTH
REEL LIFE
Indiana Jones and the Kingdom of the Crystal Skull
Keeping up with the Jones
THEME: JUWENALIA
It’s nineteen years since the premiere of the last Indiana Jones movie and
George Lucas has just announced that he’s willing to produce yet one more
if fans are forthcoming. If that’s so, he probably ought to get down to it fast,
otherwise poor Indy will be forced to lasso villains from a wheelchair like a
sort of gung-ho Ironside. But enough speculation, what about No. 4? Well,
you don’t go to an Indiana Jones movie for intellectual fireworks. What’s
needed are creepy crawlies, far-fetched car chases, exotic locations and a
legend as loopy as the Loch Ness Monster commandeering a hot air balloon
on a mission to Mars. This time, our hero may not be encouraged to munch
a sliver of live snakes, but the film delivers on most of the aforementioned
counts. Given that Spielberg has been so steadfast about keeping the plot
under wraps, it seems sporting to remain reserved about details. But as has
been widely reported, the setting is 1957 and the director has plenty of fun
with the aesthetics of the day (Indy’s leather-clad sidekick is a direct lift of
Marlon Brando’s rebel biker in the The Wild One). You’re unlikely to leave
the cinema with a deeper understanding of humanity, but the film is aimed
at youngsters after all - our 13-year-old critic hailed the film as “super” and
awarded it nine and a half out of ten. That said, perhaps the team would be
wise to quit the franchise whilst they’re still just about ahead.
Indiana Jones and the Kingdom of the Crystal Skull opened at Kino Kijow,
al. Krasinskiego 34
SHELF IMPROVEMENT
Cracow in the European Core by Jacek Purchla
Superlative intro to the city
June’s Photo of the Month was taken by Anna Stepska
(www.flickr.com/photos/annastepska)
“Flying is not that hard - especially for some zebras
(University of Agriculture students).”
In July Krakow Post will publish the best “Wianki” photo. All entries welcome. Send entries to
[email protected] by June 25th.
Twenty years ago, lavish coffee table books were a rare breed in Krakow,
as indeed were snazzy coffee houses. These days, both are in abundance,
and when scanning the shelves for glossy books on Poland, it’s hard to know
where to begin. Still, when it comes to a straight history of Krakow in
English, there’s virtually nothing on the market. Cracow in the European
Core manages to deliver on both counts. The book comes brimming with
first class photographs, both contemporary and archival, and the text itself
has been penned by one of the city’s leading historians, Dr. Jacek Purchla.
The author, who runs the International Cultural Centre on the square, has
divided Krakow’s history into 15 bite-sized chapters. Unlike the gentlemen
historians of the nineteenth century, he doesn’t aim to charm his readers
with wry fables (although the pictures excel on that score), but his writing
is packed with vivid quotes and insights. The superb Bosz publishing house
has handled this revised edition. The result is the finest book on the market
for a general introduction to Krakow. The plates are magnificent (archive
images of the Nazi occupation and Nowa Huta are mind-boggling) and Dr.
Purchla proves a trusty, serious-minded guide. One to put on your Christmas
wish-list.
Cracow in the European Core is available at the ICC, Rynek Glowny 25
Language
Trips off the Tongue
Grażyna Zawada
Why do we have two letters (u and ó) describing one
sound - /u/?
Modern Polish doesn’t distinguish
between long and short vowels, yet
in old writings there is proof that
“u” was spelt and read in the way
it is today (rather short), and that
there was another /u/ sound that
Is Polish really that difficult? Or is that just a myth, an over-used excuse touted by lazy language students?
Let’s find out… Krakow Post introduces a series of brief lessons that should prove useful when learning this beautiful
language, prepared by a native Polish linguist and teacher.
sounded longer and was pronounced
something between /u/ and /o/.
In the old scriptures dated from the
10th – 13th century the sound was
spelt sometimes with /Ø/. In the
course of ages the difference slowly
disappeared, and only in very local
and plain speech one can distinguish that in some words the /u/ is
different and /o/-like. The spelling
doesn’t have anything to do with
it now, yet the letter /ó/ reminds
us that there was once such an issue. But how do you know which
spelling to use? Try inflecting words
containing /ó/ - the letter changes
into /o/. Example: robię (present) –
rób (imperative); nóż (knife) – noże
(knives).
To cheer up those who toil over
spelling exercises: we Poles have
exactly the same problem, and go
through the same toil taking dictation tests at primary school. One
piece of advice is to read a lot, then
your brain will remember certain
rules of spelling.
Confused by Polish grammar? Send your query
to editor@krakowpost.
com, and our Polish
linguist may answer your
question in the next
edition of “Trips off the
Tongue!”
18 Krakow Post JUNE 2008
www.krakowpost.com
nnn
Culture
Culture
Culture
Live Review:
Music
Mendelssohn Music Days
Anna Spysz
Klezmer Classic
The Krakow Post talks to Irena Urbanska, grande
dame of Poland’s Klezmer scene
O
ne evening sixteen years
ago, not long after Irena
Urbanska began performing Jewish songs in Kazimierz, the phone rang:
“It was an old friend of my parents,
and she said: ‘Irenka, did you know
just how many Jews your father
saved during the war…?’ And I knew
nothing at all
about it.”
Orchestra and Choir, touring Italy,
Germany, France and elsewhere.
However, Klezmer always seemed a
natural step:
“Przemysl was a typical city in the
east with long-established Jewish
and Ukrainian communities. My parents had many Jewish friends. Music
was played in the house from dawn
ing. Longtime collaborators Roman
Slazyk and Jacek Holubowski, both
renowned jazz improvisers in their
own right, provide virtuoso turns on
the double bass and accordion.
Although now eight albums down
the line, Urbanska’s eyes still light
up when she recalls her first forages
in libraries for old Jewish songs:
“This is a
kind of music that is
hard to be
lukewarm
about. Either
you
can’t stand
it, or you
become enchanted. I
belong very
much to the
second!”
she enthuses.
The
queen
of
Krakow’s
Klezmer scene
grew up in the
south-eastern
city of Przemysl. As it
turned out, her
father, a composer and longtime organist
at the Cathedral, had used
his connections
at the Curia to
obtain Roman
Klezmer
Catholic birth
music has
Irena Urbanska in concert / photo Leszek Pilichowski
certificates,
enjoyed an
with which he created false identito dusk. Those were the days before
extraordinary renaissance in Krakow
ties for Jewish children.
televisions, and music was our main
over the last decade. Groups such
form of entertainment. My nanny
as Kroke (two of whom performed
“There were many Jewish children
Karola used to sing me the Jewish
with Urbanska during the early 90s)
hidden in the house opposite – in
song ‘Rebecca,’ but it always made
and The Cracow Klezmer Band are
cellars, in attics…. One girl I reme cry, and in the end my mother
in demand at festivals across the
member very well, Marysia, she was
had to stop her singing it!”
globe. Irena Urbanska and her enmy playmate, but I had no idea that
semble are regularly invited to play
she was Jewish. I found out later
During those last years in Przemysl
abroad, be it Canada, Germany, Isfrom several people what my father
before the war, another budding
rael or elsewhere. Gratifyingly, rehad done. But he never spoke about
musician was already performactions from Jewish listeners have
it, as he didn’t do it for glory or
ing with one of the city’s Klezmer
been resoundingly positive, in spite
money. That’s why he never made a
orchestras. Leslaw Lic was a child
of the singer’s initial worries about
fuss about the Yad Vashem Institute
prodigy, and fifty years later he
singing in Yiddish.
for the Righteous.”
would join forces with Urbanska to
help bring Klezmer back to Krakow.
“Jews made such a strong contriShe does not mention as much, but
Not long after they began performbution to Polish culture – in many
had the scam been revealed, her
ing together, he stole Spielberg’s
respects they co-created it - one
father - along with herself and her
heart when the director was in
cannot forget or discard such herisix siblings - could have been sumtown filming Schindler’s List. Lic
tage…. It should be cultivated,” she
marily executed by the Germans, a
briefly appears in the film, tooting
affirms.
punishment that was meted out to
on his beloved clarinet.
several families in the region.
Last month saw the release of Irena
Irena Urbanska and Klezmers perUrbanska began performing Jewish
Urbanska’s eighth studio album,
form several nights a week at Ariel,
music relatively late in her career.
Jewish Wedding Songs. Her voice is
ul. Szeroka 18, Kazimierz. Jewish
For many years she was a soloist
as disarming as ever, complementWedding Songs has just been rewith the classical Krakow Radio
ed by Lic’s exuberant clarinet playleased.
Cuartero Casals
The Felix Mendelssohn Music Days took place for the
third time in Krakow this May, this year in the Centre
for Jewish Culture on Meiselsa Street. While highlighting
the works of German-Jewish composer MendelssohnBartoldy (each of the eight concerts featured at least
one of his pieces), the festival also included works by
Mozart, Schubert, Brahms, Beethoven and a handful
of other great composers, primarily of the Romantic
period. Performing the pieces were a vast array of musicians from all over the world: Germany, Poland, the US,
Italy, France, Slovenia, Russia, Slovakia, Austria, Canada,
and Spain.
I was lucky enough to catch a performance on the final
evening of the festival, where the Spanish string quartet
Cuartero Casals performed works by Haydn, Beethoven,
and of course Mendelssohn. The quartet, in existence
since 1988, is comprised of Vera Martinez Mehner on
violin, Abel Tomas on violin, Jonathan Brown on viola,
and Arnau Tomas on cello, and has won top prizes at
several international competitions.
I must admit, it had been far too long since I had last
been to a chamber music concert, and hearing such
skilled musicians perform these moving pieces was a
delight to the ears. The programme began with a flowing rendition of Haydn’s String Quartet in D major Op.
33 No. 6 Hob. III/42. Next, Mendelssohn’s String Quartet No. 2 in A minor Op. 13 began as a tempestuous
opposition to the calmer Haydn before it, reaching a
climax as the musician’s bodies moved violently with
the force of the music. In the second movement, however, Mendelssohn’s vigour turned towards the creation
of flowing harmonies, though those violent tendencies were always hiding just beneath the surface in his
music. Finally, one of Mendelssohn’s major influences,
Beethoven, was presented superbly in all of his detailed
nuances by the quartet as they performed the String
Quartet in C major Op. 59 No. 3.
If the aim of the festival is to promote chamber music
in general, and to bring one of its most talented composers to a wider audience, then it is certainly growing
more successful with each passing year. Canadian cellist
Jeremy Findlay and his wife, pianist Elena Braslavsky,
are the music directors of the festival and both onetime residents of Krakow. Mr. Findlay promised that
the fourth edition of the festival, scheduled for the 8th
through to the 14th May 2009, will be an even bigger
event, as it coincides with the 200th birthday of the
renowned composer. I, for one, am very much looking
forward to it.
Krakow Post JUNE 2008 19
www.krakowpost.com
Extra Post
For Sale: Bike
Women’s bicycle, decent condition,
26” wheels, “Holender” style, 3 speeds
(1.5 working). 150 zloty or best offer.
E-mail: [email protected]
imlooking4u
Hi! On Friday night (25th April 2008) I
was in Krakow, at the Goraczka club. I
knew a beatiful and so hot girl that has
stolen my heart!! Her name is...damn I
don’t remember ‘cause I’m Italian and
her name was difficult to understand
for me (that’s a stupid thing!). I was
wearing a lightblue t-shirt...we danced
two times then I had to go suddenly
and I couldn’t say goodbye to her... So,
if you think I’m talking about you (or
maybe I’m talking about your friend),
please contact me at this e-mail address: [email protected]
Looking for a second hand vehicle. Either van or car. Good condition with reasonable price. Contact
[email protected] with
details of offer.
Variations
I: used to be a man, now a sexy lady.
You: a man - past, present or future.
Let’s get together and see how creative
we can be.
For sale: Lodz Synagogue Painting
(100cm x 120 cm, oil)
Looking for Like
Short-term, no strings attached nonrelationship sought with pretty Polish
barmaid. Find me at a pub near you.
MARKET
For Sale: Bed
Lightly used Ikea double bed for sale.
160x200cm Anes frame with Sultan
Hogbo mattress included. Stylish and
ridiculously comfortable! Write for details: [email protected]
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contact: [email protected]
MEDICAL SERVICES
Alternative Medicine
Alternative medical treatment in
chronic diseases. 12 years experience in
BIORESONANCE, MAGNETIC FIELD.
www.rehatron-alpha.com
English, German, Swedish and Polish
spoken. Telephone: +48 (0) 602532944
PERSONALS
Friendship Train
56 year old, single, English Polish resident seeks unattached lady for social
outings etc. Telephone: (0) 504528918
HOUSING
Summer Flat Share
Kazimierz, near Plac Wolnica. July
through September, perhaps longer.
Very nice, renovated and fully equipped
flat. Your share is 1,100 zl. per month,
includes everything. Serious inquiries
only email in English to:
[email protected].
Cosy apartment for rent to short-term
visitors in the centre of the Old Town.
Newly renovated, comfortable, and convenient! Call Dana at 0 12 429 16 99
Wanted: Flat from 1st July
25 year old female, not student, seeking 1-2 room flat in Kazimierz or old
Podgorze for long-term rent (1 year +).
Up to 1000 zl. rent per month, about
30-40m2, furnished or unfurnished.
Have cat. Please e-mail:
[email protected].
EMPLOYMENT
Distribution Work
Position available for energetic, enthusiastic individual with Cracow’s leading
internet guide. Hunt is on for a reliable,
self-motivated person to work 2 hours
a day to get our guides out across Cracow. Competitive wage. All applications
should be sent to sales@cracow-life.
com. Would be preferable if you have
your own transport.
SERVICES
Will Think for Drink!
Quality proofreading service by a native English speaker – I proofread, you
pay me in booze. Email to get my rates:
[email protected]
Cheap translation, Polish --> English.
For rates, call Anna, 511906762
Native English-speaker with Polish roots
offering English conversation and lessons
in exchange for Polish, in the city centre.
Send an email to szatkowski128@yahoo.
co.uk if you’re interested!
The world of French brought directly
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rates, motivating atmosphere. Give
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DIRECTORY
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Citylife
Crac ow -lif e.c om
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Drop In, Fork Out,
Get Served
/CL 3
I VA
Notes From the
Underground
/CL 2
> reviews
> spotlight
Jewish Culture Festival
previewed
/CL 5
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> CL 5
> by night
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JEWISH
CULTURE
FESTIVAL
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krakow POST
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> posted
Concerts, exhibitions &
parties
/CL 6, 7, 8
Paul Brody (trumpet) Christian Dawid (clarinet) / photo Pawel Mazur
by night
CL2 Krakow Post JUNE 2008
www.krakowpost.com
Nightlife & Dining
Notes From the
Underground
Conceived under the silvery light of a full moon party in Ko Pha Ngan,
raised by lotus-eating hippies in Ibiza and suckled on the milk of Eric
Morillo’s mixing nipple, Krakow Post proudly presents their new nightlife correspondent… the smooth, and ever-so-slightly-slippery, Slinky.
T
rouble always starts with a
quiet drink. In this instance
it started with about eight
quiet drinks. Four of us had
settled in at Nic Nowego one Sunday evening for what was supposed
to be a low key affair. However, as
guests were in town, it wasn’t long
before the inevitable introduction
to the world of Polish vodkas began.
Several hours later we said our goodbyes and I had the good sense not
to cycle home, nearly. But what with
the streets being so quiet, and the
journey so short, I figured I could
make it home safely before the last
two mad dogs kicked in…
However I had barely rotated my
peddles full circle before the menacing shape of a police van appeared
out of the gloom, barring my way.
No sooner had I confessed to having
had “dwa male piwa” than the side
door slid open and I was surrounded
by a group of heavily-armed men in
black. A brief blow on the alkomat
later and I was being bundled into
the van, as if for all the world I was
steaming through a nursery school
yard at playtime in a ten tonne juggernaut - rather than peddling at 5
mph through a deserted Old Town.
So began one of the least slinky
nights of my life...
After being escorted to my flat to
collect my passport, I was driven
to be breathalysed officially on
Karmelicka Street, and then taken to
the station on Szeroka to have my
details taken down.
“Reason given for stopping him?”
Asked cop 1.
“Just say ‘riding without lights,’” answered cop 2.
As these stalwart upholders of the
law did the necessary paperwork,
they at least offered me a cigarette
and a Pepsi. The mood lightened
and in between questions we bantered about women, and I seized the
chance to apologise for the behaviour of British stag groups, partly
in the hope of endearing myself to
them, and partly because I felt it
was my patriotic duty. Just as I’d
established a rapport with my custodians, two new cops arrived, their
faces fixed in automaton mode. I
was shoved into another vehicle,
this time for a medical on the other
side of town, driven back to Szeroka to collect my passport and then
taken halfway to Nowa Huta. Here
I was invited to demonstrate to the
Krakow constabulary the most fashionable underpants money can buy,
and made to give over all my possessions and remove my shoelaces,
before I was led to what I prayed
was solitary confinement. It wasn’t.
Three shaven-headed hooligans
were already curled up under their
blankets and I resigned to make myself comfortable on the last remaining wooden bench, with the help of
a couple of smelly rugs. In the steely
light of dawn I could just make out
above my head the words “jebac
policje” etched on the wall. It was
going to be a long night.
Several hours of surreal soul-searching later and my criminal companions and I were roused by a parole
officer (yes, even parole officers are
cute in Poland) who dished out our
breakfast – three slices of cardboard
bread, a dollop of jam and a mug of
some unidentifiable, lukewarm liquid. “Smacznego,” I said, in the hope
of cheering up my roommates, but
if they appreciated the gesture they
didn’t let it show.
An hour later and a gruff male custodian came into the cell and barked
something unintelligible at us,
which turned out to be my name,
and I was promptly reunited with
my possessions - shoelaces and
all. I felt an overpowering surge of
elation! Tears of joy formed in the
corners of my eyes. Surely the end
of my trauma was beckoning? But it
was all a cruel psychological trick…
No sooner had I pocketed my passport than two surly brutes slapped
a pair of handcuffs on me and led
me into an airless cage in the back
of another of those damn vans. This
time the destination was Lubicz 21.
The final stage of my ordeal was in
fact rather civil. A more senior, plainclothes police officer typed things
into a computer, another fetched me
a glass of water when I complained
of thirst. Meanwhile an interpreter
arrived for the first time – a female
– a lovely, soft, cuddly, sympathetic
female! Surely she would take one
look at my sweet innocent face, my
beautiful puppy dog eyes, and demand that I be sent on my slinky
way? My ethereal charm must have
worn off after a sleepless night in
the slammer however, as instead
she merely read me my rights, suggested I plead guilty, and – a phone
call to the magistrate later – dictated
my four figure fine to me, and a two
year driving ban. I was at least, and
at last, free to go.
Needless to say, after that somewhat
chastising experience, I stopped
drinking for what seemed liked days,
and have since adopted the rigid behaviour of a law-abiding citizen. You
won’t see me skipping across the
road on a red light sir! Should my
newfound civil obedience mean that
I avoid incarceration during June,
then next month I sincerely hope to
dish the dirt on nothing more naughty than which nineteen-year-old I’ve
been snogging recently… Until then,
drive carefully.
Krakow Post JUNE 2008 CL3
www.krakowpost.com
FORK OUT
G E T S E RV E D
In a city renowned for its inadequate service, it’s good to see a few feisty individuals rebelliously flying the flag for good manners, politeness and efficiency. It’s for
these precious few that our Waitress of the Month award was invented. This month’s
deserved winner, Marta Gibas, serves up spaghetti with a smile at top Italian eatery
Aqua e Vino. Posing her some decidedly unimaginative questions is KP’s nightlife editor, Duncan Rhodes.
Q: What do you do when you’re not waiting tables?
A: I’m an art student. I specialise in painting.
Q: What are your plans for the summer?
A: Stay in Krakow, work and finish my diploma. I would like to go on holiday if I have
time.
Amadeus
ul. Mikolajska 20 www.restauracja-amadeus.pl
Some of the best restaurants in Krakow are hidden away in hotels, as is the case with
the celebrated Amadeus restaurant on Mikolajska street. Descending into the 17th
century cellar, I was greeted by a decadent interior full of elegant upholstery, refined
table linens, sparkling chandeliers - and the odd pillar. Naturally enough, considering
the restaurant’s namesake, a musical theme has developed, with violins hanging from
the walls, a piano tucked away in the corner and plenty of painted murals of players
making merry on their instruments. Needless to say, however, it is Wolfgang himself
who presides over the speakers. The cuisine is a mix of international greats as well
as Polish classics, from a time long before zapiekanki were invented. If you’ve got a
bigger budget than the Krakow Post dining editor then you might want to try the restaurant’s piece de resistance, venison stuffed with shrimp, king prawns and clams. A
seasonal menu keeps Amadeus’ aficionados coming back for more.
Duncan Rhodes
DROP IN
Q: What’s the best thing about your job?
A: Firstly that I meet a lot of friendly and nice people, and also I am always learning
something new.
Q: …And the worst thing?
A: When the clients are rude.
Q: Which dish do you recommend at Aqua e Vino?
A: We have a fantastic Tagliata.
Q: What’s your favourite thing to do on a sunny day?
A: Usually I go to my mum’s home in Borzecin.
Q: Where’s your favourite place to party in Krakow?
A: Usually we go to Goraczka because we work during the week, and there’s always a
party there.
Q: What are you doing later tonight?
A: I’m meeting my boyfriend. He’s studying medicine.
Baroque
ul. Jana 16
I was all set to hate Baroque. Not another dismal attempt to woo Krakow’s odious
shopping mall generation with a few bright lights and inflated bar prices. But as I
settled down on a comfy corduroy sofa and sipped an OJ, I was already taking a shine
to the place. Unlike some other attempts at upmarket bars in Krakow, the owners of
Baroque have actually spent more than a couple of turnips on the interior décor – and
it shows. The orange and brown couches are distinctive, the subtle lighting effective
and the playful baroque patterning on the walls, bar and giant red lampshades are
easy on the eye. Importantly the owners of Baroque have also bothered to come up
with a concept: Baroque is a vodka bar (ok, it’s not the most original concept, but
still), and it serves over a hundred different flavours of the good stuff. Factor in a surprisingly reasonably-priced food menu, a newspaper stand, WiFi and cheerful barstaff
and overall I was impressed. Are there any shortcomings? Well, Rick Astley on the
speakers never does much for your street cred, and (all-too-predictably) in the corner
was my all-time no.1 bar crime – Fashion TV. Arrgghhhh!
Duncan Rhodes
Marta Gibas, June’s waitress of the month
www.restauracja-amadeus.pl
CL4 Krakow Post JUNE 2008
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spotlight
Krakow Post JUNE 2008 CL5
www.krakowpost.com
Jewish Culture Festival
M
S OR
M
C
L
I
I
W
US F
LEC
Mada Matyjaszek
T
he internationally renowned Jewish
Culture Festival will take Krakow,
along with its visitors, on a tour
around the globe, exploring fascinating traces of the Jewish Community and
the diversity of its traditions. Since 1988,
the former Jewish quarter of Kazimierz has
gathered masses of people around a magnificent spectacle of history, music and religion.
Undoubtedly, it is a great occasion to deepen
the dialogue between nations and to build a
pathway of mutual respect and understanding. For the 18th time in its history the city
of Krakow becomes a significant place for
Jews and non-Jews to find a mutual space in
time.
Krakow’s Jewish Culture Festival is the largest and the most important event of its kind
in the world. Originally, it was a scholarly
conference focused on two cultures, Jewish
and Polish. Supported by charismatic figures,
>
a few highlights
saturday
28.06
10:00 p.m.Kupa Synagogue, ul. Miodowa 27
Concert: Rare Gems of Yiddish Song (USA)
sunday
29.06
7:00 p.m. Tempel Synagogue, ul. Miodowa 24
Concert: Itzchak Meir Helfgot &Azi Schwartz (Israel)
each year the celebrations presented different aspects of Jewish heritage, which helped
the festival to grow.
This year the festival will start on the
28th of June and last until the 6th of July.
For nine days Kazimierz will resound with
Klezmer and Hasidic music. Performers play
on a spacious square on Szeroka Street and
in the old synagogues, although some of the
most exciting moments are experienced on
Plac Nowy, during the “off-scene” of the
festival. Artists appear, seemingly ad hoc,
on buildings’ roofs and play live music to
a delighted crowd, dancing and cheering.
Furthermore, there are films, performances
and exhibitions to see, and a chance for the
audience to actively participate in various
workshops.
Traditionally, there are Yiddish and Hebrew
language courses, calligraphy sessions, dance
and Hasidic singing classes, Jewish cuisine
monday
30.06
TUR
ES
COO
KING
CAL
workshops, theatre performances, art and
photo exhibitions, presentations, lectures
and speeches, and visiting tours around Kazimierz’s synagogues. All of these events are
led professionally by local and international
experts, and often accompanied by brilliant
Klezmer music played by famous artists from
around the world.
This year the festival’s programme concentrates on one leading element - the 60th anniversary of the proclamation of the State of
Israel. The majority of the festival’s concerts
will be dedicated to Israeli music, showing
its multicultural character. The organizers
will present the Klezmer group Oy Division, from downtown Tel Aviv, a band with a
passion for Eastern European Jewish tunes;
Sephardic Yasmin Levy, who combine Latino
music with Turkish influences; one of the
world’s leading percussionists, Zohar Fresco;
talented saxophonist Daniel Zamir; and David
d’Or – renowned as a leading counter-tenor
wednesday
02.07
7:00 p.m. Tempel Synagogue, ul. Miodowa 24
Concert: La Diaspora Sefardi (Spain)
10:00 p.m.Tempel Synagogue, ul. Miodowa 24
Concert: Zohar Fresco and Daniel Zamir (Israel)
7:00 p.m. Tempel Synagogue, ul. Miodowa 24
Concert: Yasmin Levy (Israel)
10:00 p.m.Tempel Synagogue, ul. Miodowa 24
Concert: Klezmer and Gypsy Musicians
tuesday
thursday
01.07
7:00 p.m. Tempel Synagogue, ul. Miodowa 24
Concert: Oy Division (Israel)
10:00 p.m.Tempel Synagogue, ul. Miodowa 24
Erik Friedlander performs John Zorn’s music
K
S
P
O
SH
03.07
5:00 p.m. Kupa Synagogue, ul. Ciemna 15
Concert: Konsonans Retro Ensemble (Ukraine)
10:00 p.m.Tempel Synagogue, ul. Miodowa 24
Concert: La Mar Enfortuna (USA)
LIGR
APH
Y
from Israel.
Apart from music, the festival allows the
audience to encounter genuine Jewish
culture, history and tradition – thanks to a
series of lectures held on every festival day
in the Kupa Synagogue (27 Miodowa Street).
With free admission and English translations,
everyone can take part. This edition of the
festival will also focus on familiarising the
audience with the history of Israel on the
occasion of the 60th anniversary of the State
of Israel.
Krakow still has only a small registered
population of Jews, and yet, with the opening of the new Jewish Community Centre this
year and of course the anniversary of the
founding of Israel, there is no doubt that this
year’s festival will be an event to remember.
friday
04.07
6:30 p.m. Tempel Synagogue, ul. Miodowa 24
Concert: Descarga Maghreb (France, USA)
8:00 p.m. Plac Nowy
Concert on the Roof
saturday
05.07
6:00 p.m. Szeroka Street
Open-air concert: Shalom on Szeroka Street
sunday
06.07
8:00 p.m.Tempel Synagogue, ul. Miodowa 24
Concert: Leopold Kozlowski and His Friends
posted
CL6 Krakow Post JUNE 2008
The Month in Events
SPECIAL EVENTS
VIII DRAGON PARADE
In case you hadn’t noticed, a devious dragon
used to live in the cave below the castle.
Centuries ago, he went on a spree, munching any mammal (including humans) he could
get his claws on. Eventually, a wily cobbler
came up with a cunning plan. He left a
sheep’s carcass stuffed with sulphur outside
the beast’s lair - the fire-breathing fellow
ate the bait and promptly exploded. Polish
children love this story. Around 1 pm on
Saturday the 7th, the annual Dragon Parade
will emerge around ul. Dominikanska before
circling the Rynek. There will be fireworks
by the river that evening. All afternoon on
Saturday and Sunday there will be open-air
picnics and all kinds of bouncy-castle shenanigans. Join in outside the Dragon’s Lair.
when - 7th June
where - Various Locations
Poster for the 8th Dragon Parade
V AVIATION PICNIC
The huge open-air aviation museum is one
of Krakow’s cult destinations and a fantastic
family event is lined up for the last weekend of June. Head over for a picnic with an
airborne twist. All kinds of attractions are in
store, from climbing walls to bouncy castles.
Open 9 am until 6 pm on both Saturday and
Sunday.
when - 28th & 29th June
where - Polish Aviation Museum, Al. Jana
Pawla II 39
FESTIVALS
48TH KRAKOW FILM FESTIVAL
The coveted Golden Dragon is up for grabs
once more. This time round, 1,800 entries
have been whittled down to a lean 57. These
include 24 documentaries, 19 shorts and 14
animated cuts. Talents from as far afield as
Iran and India are all in the running. However, this year the UK seems to be leading the
march with 13 films in competition. Unlucky
for some? We’ll soon see, but regardless of
who scoops top prize, make this fest a must
in your diary. As usual, the main base will be
Kino Kijow, with back-up from the charismatic Kino Pod Baranami on the Market Square.
It’s a cosy affair and directors and actors
usually stick around for some questions and a
chat after each screening.
when - Until 5th June
where - Kino Kijow, al. Krasinskiego 34
EVERYONE CAN SING COMPETITION
Some of Poland’s most celebrated crooners
have won their spurs at this annual shoot-out
(or should that be sing-out?). And at 8 pm on
June 11th, the finalists for 2008 will line up
for their last stab at the crown. The event,
held at the superb Rotunda Club, should be
plenty of fun, and it will be presided over by
some of the city’s top culture cats.
when - 11th June
where - Rotunda Club, ul. Oleandry 1
18TH FESTIVAL OF JEWISH CULTURE
It’s hard to believe that we’re already
welcoming No. 18. And if this is your first
encounter with the Jewish Festival, you’re
in for a treat. The Kazimierz district - hub
of Jewish life in the city for many centuries
- will pullulate with visitors from around
the globe. Film, music, literature and even
cookery come together in an exhilarating
celebration of all things Jewish. As always,
the event wraps up with a street party on ul.
Szeroka (July 5th). For more details, check
out the Spotlight on CL5.
when - 27th June until 6th July
where - Various, Kazimierz District
Latin American Film Festival
IX LATIN AMERICAN FILM FESTIVAL
Latin American cinema blasted into the public consciousness with films such as Amores
Perros (2000) and Y tu mama tambien
(2001). But there’s plenty more spicy stuff
in the pan, and this nationwide festival will
be offering some tantalising cuts for film
fanatics. Beginning on the 6th of June, Kino
Pod Baranami will be screening seven choice
new films from Brazil, Cuba, Mexico and
provided by Cracow-life.com
tions, both public and private.
when - Throughout June
where - Czartoryski Museum (Arsenal), ul.
Pijarska 8
PAWEL KSIAZEK - COLLECTIONS
Painter Pawel Ksiazek has won a wide following in Poland and his work has started
to make waves abroad too. This show offers
art aficionados the chance to savour a wide
range of his paintings. If you don’t dig his
“comic book-like poetics,” you’re sure to dig
the gallery’s open-air cafe - one of Krakow’s
summertime treasures.
when - Throughout June
where - Bunkier Sztuki, Pl. Szczepanski 3a
EXHIBITIONS
FIRST STEP...
The National Museum has bagged a 24-carat
collection of modern art for its summer
show. Works from some of the hottest names
in the art world will be coming to Krakow, including Warhol, Clemente, Fischl and
La Chapelle. It’s the first time that many
of these stars have exhibited in Poland, and
all thanks to Rafeal Jablonka, owner of the
eponymous Jablonka Galerie in Cologne. The
exhibition focuses on American and European
luminaries of the last 20 years, and besides
the aforementioned four, visitors can catch
works by Miquel Barcelo, Sherie Levine, Mike
Kelley and Philip Taafe.
when - Throughout June
where - National Museum, Al. 3 Maja 1
POLISH PHOTOGRAPHY OF THE 20TH
CENTURY
WIANKI - THE LAYING OF THE WREATHS
“Wianki” is a pagan shindig that’s been given
a modern makeover. Traditionally, it takes
place on St. John’s Eve. As the sun sinks
into the horizon, wreaths set with candles
will be floated down the Vistula in an echo
of ancient rites. That said, before you can
say Baba Yaga, a rock band will be blasting
out some not entirely pagan tunes from the
far side of the river. A handful of big acts will
seize the stage, and this year, none other
than Jamiroquai will be taking top spot.
For more information on the Wianki tradition, check out page 16.
when - 21st June
where - Vistula Embankment
Argentina. Between them the movies have
scooped a hoard of international awards,
and the festival offers a rare chance to catch
them on the big screen.
when - 6th until 9th June
where - Kino Pod Baranami, Rynek Glowny 27
www.krakowpost.com
This show is the National Museum’s contribution to the annual “Month of Photography”
Festival. However, as the NM has a fair few
venues to play with, their show will go on
throughout July, giving us a little more time
to drop in. As the title suggests, the exhibition delivers an overview of Poland’s 20th
century photography greats, with pictures
culled from some of the country’s top collec-
Meet him at the Bunkier Sztuki gallery
JAN BULHAK
Jan Bulhak (1876-1950) has been dubbed the
“Father of Polish Photography.” It’s a title
well earned. Besides founding numerous
societies and serving as Professor of Photography at Vilnius University, he created a
MA in TransAtlantic Relations
For foreigners at Jagiellonian University
Deadline for applications: August 15, 2008
Visit our web page: www.transatlantic.uj.edu.pl
Our office: Rynek Glowny 34, 2nd Floor, Room 7A
TransAtlantic Studies Office
Institute of American Studies
and Polish Diaspora
Jagiellonian University
Rynek Glowny 34
31-010 Krakow
e-mail: [email protected]
Phone: (48)124296157
Fax: (48)12422 03 64
Krakow Post JUNE 2008 CL7
www.krakowpost.com
vast and vivid body of work. Bulhak’s style is
poetic in the best sense of the word. He was
enchanted by landscape, and he travelled
throughout Poland in search of inspiration.
War destroyed his world, and his later years
will be explored in a follow-up exhibition
beginning in July. Well worth investigating.
when - Throughout June
where - Museum of the History of Photography, ul. Jozefitow 16
CONTEMPORARY BELGIAN ART
A leading contender for the crown of best
exhibition space in town, the ICC can be
found bang on the Market Square. Throughout the summer the centre will be hosting
a three-pronged promotion of Belgian art unveiling works by Guy Vandenbranden,
Luc Ledene and Janké - artists who are
still at large today. The show, entitled “Between Constructivism and Figuration,” runs
until September.
when - Throughout June
where - International Cultural Centre,
Rynek Glowny 25
city to the former Royal Hunting Lodge (more
palace really) of Niepolomice. From the 21st
to the 24th you can catch Strauss’s Gypsy
Baron there. Rounding off the month there’ll
be a couple more events back in Krakow.
The tone remains royal - two concerts of celebrated arias performed in the Renaissance
courtyard of Wawel Castle (28th & 29th).
when - 15th June until 11th July
where - Various
T
FILM
SUMMER CINEMA AT KINO KIJOW
Kino Kijow may boast the biggest screen in
town, but with summer getting into gear,
they’ll have a more modest gem up their
sleeves. Every week you can catch open-air
screenings of classic cuts of world cinema.
Staged in Kijow’s garden, the films are free,
but peckish punters can order up snacks
from the barbecue and beers from the bar.
he Unsound Festival has been bringing top experimental and
electronic artists to Krakow for five years now, traditionally
in the fall. But this summer, Unsound is going tropical for
a special one-night event at Pauza Club. Pauza’s trendy
basement will be transformed into a colourful scene from Rio
de Janeiro’s kaleidoscopic carnival, courtesy of artist Nathalie
Rebholz. Meanwhile, the artists performing will meld a chorus of
tropical sounds with electronic beeps and blips. Minimal techno
and tech-house will be combined with Latin rhythms, and even
CRACOVIAN ART AFTER 1945
Drop into the Krakow History Museum
on the square for a blast of avant-garde
Polish art. The show focuses on the postwar era, with paintings by some of the
most distinguished names in Cracovian (and
Polish) modern art. Besides internationally
acclaimed hero Tadeusz Kantor, visitors
can savour works by Sobocki, Puget and
Taranczewski.
when - Throughout June
where - Palac Krzysztofory, Rynek Glowny 35
Kadebostan, Dobradinha,
Andres Garcia, DJ Laolu and Eltron John playing long
live Brazilian rap, with artists
into the night.The one-off festival is curated by the Swiss label
Mental Groove, and organized by Unsound in cooperation with Pro
Helvetia.
The Hipolit townhouse is one of Krakow’s
oft-neglected treasures, in spite of it lying
just behind St. Mary’s Basilica. This nostalgic
show, which comes under the wings of the
“Moscow Days Festival” has been organised
by Tamara Trocka, guest curator from the
Russian capital. Visitors can admire all sorts
of dainty turn of the century togs - think
Julie Christie in “Doctor Zhivago.”
when - Throughout June
where - Hipolit House, Plac Mariacki 3
HENRYK STAZEWSKI (1894-1988)
Henryk Stazewski is a towering figure
in Polish avant-garde art, both in his own
works and his support of other painters (he
organised Malevich’s first Polish exhibition
in Warsaw in 1927). He lived to the grand old
age of 94, witnessing most of the tremors
of the twentieth century. This show unveils
over 40 pieces of classic abstraction.
when - Throughout June
where - National Museum, Al. 3 Maja 1
TRACES OF MEMORY
What with the Jewish Festival getting
underway this month, there’s no shortage of one-off events to savour. Yet for a
fascinating intro to the Jewish heritage of
the region, you’d be hard-pushed to trump
the Galicia Museum. Founded in 2004 by the
late and great British photographer Chris
Schwarz, the museum offers a dynamic
exploration of the Jewish legacy of Poland.
The main exhibition, “Traces of Memory,”
is nothing short of a masterpiece. Deserted
synagogues, overgrown graveyards and other
haunting landmarks are all vividly documented. The centre also hosts numerous concerts,
lectures and other events - all in all a must
on the Jewish trail.
when - Throughout June
where - Galicia Museum, ul. Dajwor 18
UNCONVENTIONAL ARTISTIC CLOTHING
The manorial complex of Dworek Bialopradnicki makes for a delightful day-trip,
especially when summer’s in full flow. As
usual, the manor itself has prepared a
packed summer programme. One of the
highlights will be this eccentric show in the
newly refurbished “Kosciuszko Inn.” Created by students from the Krakow School
of Clothes Design, “Unconventional Artistic
Clothing” presents costumes from the most
unlikely materials. Pieces made from paper
and recycled materials are amongst the
bizarre fruits on display. Hop on a bus to get
to the centre.
when - From 12th June
where - Dworek Bialopradnicki, ul. Papiernicza 1
JEWISH ARTISTS IN KRAKOW 1873-1939
Chiming in with the Jewish Culture Festival,
this exhibition at the Old Synagogue draws
back the curtain on some of Krakow’s largely
forgotten Jewish artists. The Krakow History
Museum has tracked down many works from
private collections, complementing its own
selection of pre-war Jewish art.
when - From 28th June
where - Old Synagogue, ul. Szeroka 24
OPERA, THEATRE
& DANCE
12TH OPERA KRAKOWSKA FESTIVAL
Summer will offer a bounty for opera lovers.
Once again, the Opera Krakowska Festival
will be twirling across town. The action kicks
off on the 15th of June with a performance
of Verdi’s Rigoletto at the Slowacki Theatre. Next up, the festival is taken outside the
adebostan
MOSCOW FASHION DURING THE
BELLE EPOQUE
k
Fin-de-siecle fashion at the Hipolit House
Pauza has swiftly taken its place as one of
the hippest galleries on the scene. Their ever
popular bar and cafe downstairs has proved a
handy springboard. This June, you can catch
an exhibition about youth by photographer
Bogdan Frymorgen. Parched punters can
round things off with a beer in the garden.
when - From 7th June
where - Galeria Pauza, ul. Florianska 18/5
A r t A s s a u l t : U n s o u n d G o e s Tr o p i c a l
TALES OF GROWING
B
ut what about the artists? Cracovian DJ Eltron John will start
off the night with a DJ set, followed by a live performance
by Kadebostan. The Swiss band from Geneva have already
released acclaimed albums on the Freude Am Tanzen and
Fenou labels. Expect moody evocative club music interspersed with
Latin American sounds. Kadebostan’s DJ Laolu will also perform a
solo DJ set to end the night.
Also based in Geneva, Dobradinha features two Brazilian female
vocalists, Natascha and Paula, accompanying Andres Garcia on
electronics, mixing minimal techno with Brazilian funk. Garcia,
who also performs with Dandy Jack as one half of John Keys, will
play a solo set with material off his solo single on Connaisseur
Superier as well.
when: 14th June, 10pm
where: Klub Pauza, ul. Florianska 18
www.unsound.pl
CL8 Krakow Post JUNE
www.krakowpost.com
2008
Screenings kick off daily at 9:30 pm.
when - Throughout June & July
where - Kino Kijow, al. Krasinskiego 34
FILMS OF ALEJANDRO JODOROWSKY
As a follow-up to the Festival of Latin
American Cinema, Kino Pod Baranami will be
shining a spotlight on one of the most eccentric figures from that sweltering part of the
world. Born in Chile to Russian Jewish émigrés, Ajejandro Jodorowsky has been
described as a shaman, a charlatan, a mad
genius and much more besides. His magical
visions have won cult status, and like any
self-respecting genius, he tended to write,
direct, score and star in his creations. So is
the legend deserved? Find out for yourself
at Kino Pod Baranami, where three films are
lined up plus a documentary feature.
when - 10th until 13th June
where - Kino Pod Baranami, Rynek Glowny 27
IN THE MOOD FOR BJORK
Everyone’s favourite Icelandic pixie is taking
top bill today at the hip Kino Pod Baranami.
The occasion is the Polish premiere of computer-animated movie Anna and the Moods,
in which Bjork takes the lead role - albeit
in animated form! As a special complement
to this short film, the valiant folks at Pod
Baranami have charmed Universal into allowing a special screening of some other classic
Bjork material. Some of her most fantastical
music videos - rarely seen on the big screen will get an airing prior to the main feature. A
must for all Bjorkists and film aficionados!
when - 14th June
where - Kino Pod Baranami, Rynek Glowny 27
LIVE MUSIC
CLASSICAL CONCERTS:
THE KRAKOW PHILHARMONIC
The Krakow Philharmonic rounds off its season with a pair of crowd pleasers on the 13th
and 14th of June. Bach’s Mass in B Minor
BMV 232 is on the cards. You can also catch
the orchestra in action on the 6th and 7th,
when Messaien, Ravel and Debussy
are pencilled in. Sadly, the great composers
can’t make it in person, but guest American
pianist Eugene Indjic will be tinkling the
ivories alongside the Cravovian ensemble.
when – Throughout June
where - Philharmonic Hall, ul. Zwierzyniecka 1
GUSGUS
Cool kids of Krakow will be delighted by the
news that Earth, Biggi Veira and President Bongo - aka GusGus - are heading
our way in June. These Icelandic eccentrics
have enjoyed a huge surge in popularity in
recent years, although they’ve in fact been
around since 1995. Their music is a bizarre
and uplifting mix of electro, house, pop and
trip-hop, with plenty of drama thrown into
their live shows. Essential for anyone interested in the alternative dance scene.
when - 6th June
where - Studio Club, ul. Budryka 4
&INE4ASTE3INCE
Films of Jodorowsky: Kino Pod Baranami
aural punishment to anyone within hearing
distance of the Blonia on June 28th. The Salt
Mines are expecting record numbers on this
day. If you have been corrupted by the dark
side and simply insist on going to see the
Canadian songstress, then you can check out
www.maybkrakow.pl - the event’s official
website - and buy tickets. If there is any
justice in this world a freak iceberg storm
will rain down from the heavens just as
Celine bursts into “My Heart Will Go On...”
giving her fans their just desserts and raising
the average IQ of Cracovians by around 50
points.
when - 28th June
where – Blonia
CLUB MUSIC
WHERE2B IN JUNE
New in town? Don’t know your Prozak from
your Przychodnia or your Cien from your Chill
Out? Grab a Where2b nightlife guide from
around town, or simply make a note of the
following midweek shindigs to be sure you’re
in the centre of the action - Mixer@Prozak on
Mondays, Today@Ministerstwo on Tuesdays,
Black Cherry@Frantic on Wednesdays, Sex
on Wax@Cien on Thursdays. See you at the
Mardi Gras!
when - Throughout June
where - Various Clubs
QUSHI BIRTHDAY PARTY
A mash-up of the first order is in the making
at Qushi Club on the 20th of June, with turntablist extraordinaire J-Bounce, joined by
fellow wizards of sound Mental Cut and
the Fluowankaz. The latter are celebrating their 1st birthday, as is the club itself, so
it should be a big one.
when - 20th June
where - Qushi Club, ul. Szczepanska 3
2YNEK'ÐWNY+RAKÐW
TELWWWHAWELKAPL
CELINE DION IN CONCERT
Not since the Nazis and their Panzer tanks
arrived in 1939 have the citizens of Poland
trembled with such fear and horror – Celine
Dion is coming to Krakow! The renowned
torturer will be arriving with her deadly
instruments (viz. a microphone and some
very large speakers) to dish out excruciating
Jamiroquai plays the “Wianki Festival”