french connection
Transcription
french connection
krakow POST FREE June 2008 Edition 44 ISSN 1898-4762 www.krakowpost.com Krakow Uncertain future for Plac Nowy >> page 3 Poland Sex scandal puts SelfDefence on the defence >> page 8 Feature Euro 2008 wall chart, facts and figures >> page 10, 11 Business Investment funds in Poland >> page 13 Sport Two presidents, one goal / photo Bartosz Krupa/East News FRENCH CONNECTION France to open job market to Poles Adelina Krupski C onfirming their cooperation, French President Nicolas Sarkozy and his Polish counterpart Lech Kaczynski signed a declaration on strategic partnership at the second PolishFrench summit, held in Warsaw on the 28th of May. The document, covering issues regarding energy, education and security, obliges the two countries to collaborate closely on political, economic, social and cultural affairs both in bilateral relations and in discussions with the EU and NATO. More importantly, the newly signed agreement signifies that Poland and France have reconciled after the negativity that arose under former President Jacques Chirac, partly due to differences over the US-led invasion of Iraq. In addition, Sarkozy announced that Paris will lift restrictions on Polish workers in France as of July 1st this year, the same day on which the country is to take over the half-yearly EU presidency. “It’s a very important decision,” said Kaczynski. “We want to be a fully-fledged member of the EU.” Unlike Britain, Ireland and Sweden, which chose to allow complete access upon enlargement, France preferred to keep its labour market closed to new EU members until they had undergone a five-year transition period. Considering France originally planned to take this “It’s a very important decision,” said Kaczynski. “We want to be a fully-fledged member of the EU.” step in May 2009, the restrictions are to be abolished nearly a year ahead of schedule. As a result, the French labour market will soon be open to all workers from the eight former communist countries that joined the EU in 2004. Citizens of Poland, Slovakia, Hungary, Latvia, Lithuania, Estonia, Slovenia and the Czech Republic will be able to work freely in France, regardless of their profession. However, restrictions will continue to apply to workers from Bulgaria and Romania, which joined the EU only last year. Furthermore, work restrictions still remain in force in Germany, Austria, Denmark and Belgium. Sarkozy emphasised that he believes in the free movement of people and goods inside Europe and declared France wants to work “side by side” with Poland during its entire presidency of the EU. As the largest >> 2 of the eight countries Poland’s rocky road to Euro 2008 >> page 12 Culture Looted cross returns to Poland >> page 15 Citylife > by night Notes From the Underground /CL 2 > reviews Drop In, Fork Out, Get Served /CL 3 > spotlight Jewish Culture Festival previewed /CL 5 > posted Concerts, exhibitions & parties /CL 6, 7, 8 2 Krakow Post JUNE 2008 www.krakowpost.com News Krakow Letters From the editor Praise and complaints addressed to the editor Hello KP Readers, I really wanted to fill this space with letters from you this month. But while we’ve received plenty of verbal feedback and emails about the first “new” edition of the Post, we didn’t receive any actual letters to be published. So, I’d like to use this space to encourage something that is essential to running a publication such as this one: feedback. Don’t like a story? Or a writer? Write to us! Do like a story, but would like to share another perspective? Write to us as well! As the debate section (see p. 5) this month is a pretty hot topic, particularly for ex-pats who have lived in Krakow for several years and have seen the evolution of Kazimierz, I’m expecting plenty of contrasting viewpoints from our readers. Then there’s the opinion piece, which is, well, opinionated. So, if you agree or disagree with any of these pieces, or if you quite fancy the fonts we’re using or our neat Euro 2008 wall chart – whatever – write to us! “ Don’t like a story? Or a writer? Write to us! T A 36-year-old Pole murdered his Indian wife and buried the body in the garden. The terrible incident took place in Raciborsko near Wieliczka, the salt mine city east of Krakow. The man had lived there since April in a rented house together with the victim, 27-yearold Jooaki and their 3-year-old son. The two met in the US, lived in England and in spring this year they moved to Poland. The EC report on the functioning of transitional measures from February 2006 shows that, over the first two years following the expansion, migration flows have had positive economic effects in those countries that did not restrict free movement from the eight new Member States. For instance, they helped to relieve labour market shortages and contributed to sustained economic growth and to better public finances in the countries concerned. For France, which suffers a shortage of skilled labour despite its relatively high 7.5 percent unemployment rate, migration from Eastern Europe is seen as part of the solution, especially seeing as the country has been gradually opening its job market to workers from the east since May 2006. “ ...migration flows have had positive economic ef- fects in those coun- restrict free movement from the eight new Member States During his one-day visit, the French president also met with Prime Minister Donald Tusk to talk over the Polish initiative on the EU foreign policy and further eastern expansion toward the former Soviet republics, notably Ukraine, Georgia and Azerbaijan. In the case of Ukraine, Poland has been a strong supporter of its establishing closer ties with both the EU and NATO. Sarkozy said France will also seek closer links between the EU and Ukraine. Tusk responded warmly to the encouraging words expressed by Sarkozy, saying it showed that eastern partnership with Ukraine could soon be approved and it should not be seen as a rival to plans championed by Sarkozy to boost EU-Mediterranean ties. “There is no conflict between these two projects, they are complementary,” Tusk said. “ letters to the editor The news was also well received by the European Commission. Vladimir Spidla, European Commissioner for Employment, Social Affairs and Equal Opportunities, said, “I warmly welcome the fact that the French government has reconsidered the restrictions on free movement of workers in force since May 2004.” According to Spidla, “Fully opening the job market to citizens of the eight member states from Central and Eastern Europe will bring benefits to the economy and to the country as a whole.” “ Sincerely, Anna Spysz Editor-in-Chief Indian Woman Murdered by Polish Husband tries that did not You might also notice some changes in this issue; we’ve increased our circulation to 50,000 copies from the initial 20,000, and we’ve increased the paper to 28 pages. Thanks to suggestions from our readers and staff journalists, we’ve added one new feature so far - a language section, designed to help those learning Polish (p. 17) – and there are plenty more in the works. We’re also working on making the Krakow Post website more interactive, by adding features such as comments on articles and full stories available only online (see interview with J. Ornstein, p. 4). But these changes can only come from your feedback, so if you have anything to say – write to us! << Continued from 1 involved, Poland cut its unemployment rate to 9 percent, demonstrating high economic growth and “the ambition to develop in a sustained way.” Accordingly, Sarkozy said France should approach Poland with understanding. he Krakow Post welcomes letters to the editor. Letters for publication should be signed and bear the signatory’s email address and city of residence. The Krakow Post reserves the right to edit letters. Please send letters to the editor at [email protected], or by post at Krakow Post Ul. Szczepanska 7/4a 31-011 Krakow Finally, Sarkozy congratulated Poland on its decision to take part in the EU military mission in Chad, stressing that the move exemplifies the engagement of Poland in shared political processes as well as a commitment to the security of the EU. Following meetings with Sejm Speaker Bronislaw Komorowski and Senate Speaker Bogdan Borusewicz, Sarkozy delivered a speech to the parliament, in which he acclaimed Poland as a great nation of Europe. about Grażyna Zawada The forensic evidence revealed that two weeks ago the husband, an art historian by profession, murdered Jooaki with several blows of a dull object and buried the body about 30 metres away from the house. The whole case would have never come to light if it wasn’t for Joonaki’s sister, who came from England to visit her. When she didn’t find her there, she informed the police. Soon afterwards the husband reported her missing, claiming that she’d gone out, but had left no message as to where. Afterwards the Indian embassy began a search for the missing woman and launched an investigation. The police questioned the husband and identified him as a chief suspect. Biological clues found at the crime scene led to the body and the suspect admitted to having committed the crime. The motive he gave was a marital disagreement between the two. In Poland there are very few examples of Indian woman married to Polish men. According to Jayanti Hazra de Varion, an Indian woman married to a former Polish ambassador to Britain, only three Indian women in Poland are married to Poles. At www.forum.gazeta.pl acquaintances of the couple express their shock and disbelief – according to user “Requiem” the man had difficulties with “finding his place on earth.” krakow POST Krakow Post is a monthly publication published by Lifeboat Ltd. ISSN: 1898-4762 www.krakowpost.com Anna Spysz, Editor-in-Chief [email protected] Mark Bradshaw, Publisher [email protected] Duncan Rhodes, Nightlife Editor [email protected] Culture Editor [email protected] Stuart Wilson, Design For advertising inquiries, please contact: Michal McSperrin-Kossak, Sales Manager [email protected] +48 (12) 421 4865 Printers, www.drukarniapolska.pl Krakow Post JUNE 2008 3 www.krakowpost.com News Krakow Uncertain Future for Plac Nowy commissioned by the association revealed that a significant proportion of local residents use the market at least once a week and do not want to lose it; it is the only place to buy fresh fruit and vegetables in the immediate vicinity (the nearest alternative is a 15 minute walk away at the Hala Targowa). Their petition has almost 700 signatories, with support coming from as far afield as the UK, France and the US. Ewa Spohn P lac Nowy in Kazimierz has been a place of trade for both Christian and Jewish communities since it was created in the late 19th century. The round building in the middle, known as the “Okraglak,” was built later and was the only place in the city where you could buy both kosher and non-kosher meat right up until the Second World War. After the war, Kazimierz’s fortunes declined and by the late 1990s crime was rife, making it a place one wouldn’t visit out of choice. Its fortunes turned around in the late 1990s as artists started to move in to the dilapidated buildings, attracted by cheap rents and the proximity to the Old Town. The first cafés (Singer Café and Alchemia) opened on Plac Nowy in 1999. In 1992, a 10-year contract for the running and management of the square was awarded to a private company owned by a group of its traders. In 2002, this contract was renewed for a further 30 years without a public tender. The company is owned by 26 individuals, some of whom are still traders and enjoy preferential rates for their pitches, their trading expenses paid for, and a share of the substantial profits. As the square is a UNESCO World Heritage site, repairs and renovations are covered from the city’s budget. While the amount, quality and variety of produce sold in the market has declined over the last decade, the area around the market is thriving. Many of the surrounding buildings house bars and cafes that are popular both during the day and at night. In late 2007, local media reported that the city’s councillors had passed a new by-law that allows sale of alcohol on “Okraglak” - Plac Nowy / photo Stuart Wilson all of Krakow’s market squares until midnight, and in the case of Plac Nowy until 2 am. these cafes will serve tea, coffee, beer and cakes but no spirits. The residents of Plac Nowy already suffer from problems with rubbish and noise. They are unhappy, not only about the lack of consultation by the democratically elected councillors, but also about the prospect of Plac Nowy being turned into a permanent Oktoberfest. The City Council’s official reason behind the changes is that they are a way of supporting business and attracting tourism. However, this seems to fly in the face of the strategy of the city’s marketing policy, which promotes Krakow as a place for culture rather than partying. Representatives of Kazimierz sp. z o.o. maintain that the idea of cafes is critical for the future of the square, as the selling of fruit and vegetables doesn’t bring in enough revenue. They say that their intention is that In early 2008, residents and friends of the square launched an association called “Przyjazny Kazimierz” (“Friendly Kazimierz”) to push for a more sustainable approach to the development of the square. Research Medical Tourists Hit Krakow Shots of novocaine may soon be competing equally with shots of vodka as city dentists and doctors tap the tourist industry Sebastian Leitich Lee Nicholson flashes a toothy, Cheshire cat grin. “Look what they did to me!” he says, jutting his chin out and running his forefinger over each of his six new prosthetic front teeth. “It’s fantastic!” Lee, a retired electronics engineer in his late 60s from Fife in Scotland, is referring to the dental work he received at the hands of Dr. Tomek Nowak, a local dentist who spends much of his time peering into the mouths and repairing the teeth of Britons at his clinic SGS Dentamed in the north of the city. Lee, Dr. Nowak’s first foreign client, is back in Krakow for seconds. This time he’s brought his wife, who’s considering implants. “Dental care in the UK is absolute rubbish. Coming to Krakow was not only about savings. I couldn’t get a private dentist in the UK let alone an NHS dentist. I was in pain and they couldn’t help me.” But what translates into wads of savings and relief for medical tourists like Lee, spells boom time for Dr. Nowak and other private medical practitioners, who are picking up where the NHS and private UK clinics have failed. “Revenue from medical tourists already makes up approximately 20 percent of our business. I can see it going up in the future,” says Dr. Nowak. So why did the Nicholsons chose Krakow? “Convenience mostly, but also price. We considered Warsaw but it was easiest to get to Krakow from where we are than anywhere else,” says Lee. Lee’s treatment was arranged from start to finish by Perfect Profiles, a UK-based medical tourism agent. >> 4 / photo Anna Spysz >> 4 The association has also been meeting councillors individually to discuss the changes and has found some support. A number of them have privately admitted that the Council operates on a “scratch my back and I’ll scratch yours” approach to getting each other’s resolutions passed, which is probably why the potential implications of these changes were not discussed in full. No one doubts that Plac Nowy needs to be redeveloped, but there is a fundamental conflict between a privately owned company that has a duty to maximize profits for its shareholders, and the residents who think it inappropriate for the future of a historic public space to be decided on by a private corporation. 4 Krakow Post JUNE 2008 www.krakowpost.com News Krakow Lem’s Playground << Continued from “Garden of Experiments” dedicated to literary great coherent, emblematic and aesthetically pleasing. The layout was masterminded by Krzysztof Ingarden, best known to Cracovians as the architect of the Wyspianski 2000 pavilion. Nick Hodge J une 1st is Children’s Day in Poland and this year Cracovian youngsters were given a princely present. “Ogrod Doswiadczen” (“The Garden of Experiments”) had its official opening on the 8th of May and is now fully open to the public. Spread across six hectares of landscaped parkland between old Krakow and Nowa Huta, the garden has swept science out of the dusty classroom. Visitors can literally grasp the doctrine, as over fifty interactive installations are up and running, each demonstrating a different phenomenon in the world of physics. The brainchild of Danuta Szymonska, head of the Cyprian Norwid Cultural Centre, the garden was jointly funded by Krakow and EU money and it has already scooped a prize in this year’s “Poland Blossoms – Seven Wonders of EU Funding” competition, winning in the tourist attraction category. A hands-on demonstration of sound Several luminaries lent their expertise to the project, including architect Krzysztof Ingarden, physicist Dr. Marek Golab and engineer Krzysztof Stepien. After gaining the blessing of the late author’s family, the garden was dedicated to Stanislaw Lem, the internationally celebrated science fiction writer who lived in Krakow for many decades. The idea for the garden was initially sparked by a visit to Nuremberg’s “Field of Experi- ences for the Senses.” Mrs Szymonska was especially keen to found the garden in the vicinity of Nowa Huta, a district so often maligned by Cracovians. The big break came in late 2004, when the project gained a boost through EU backing. One of the most striking aspects of the garden is its sculptural quality. Great care has been taken to organise the installations – themselves visually delightful – in a manner that is The installations have been divided into four zones: Optical, Acoustic, Liquid and Mechanical. Each quarter unfurls like a bough of a tree, in this case weaving amongst actual mature trees that have endured from the former parkland. Platforms, inspired by the notion of fallen leaves - thus reflecting the laws of physics - provide elegant bases for each experiment. Prisms, periscopes, tubular bells and rotating stars are a few of the many installations that visitors can enjoy. Stanislaw Lem, whose widow attended the opening ceremony on May 8th, would have had much to savour. As a child, the future literary giant filled countless notebooks with designs for machines and contraptions. Until his last days, his favourite keepsake was a light conductor, which held pride of place on his desk at his >> 7 I returned nearly a month later to have a much quieter talk with Jonathan Ornstein, the centre’s director, and to see what’s going on at the centre now that the commotion from the opening has settled. (See the full interview online at www.krakowpost.com) KP: It’s been one month since the opening – what have you accomplished so far, and what’s still in the works? JO: Considering that the opening was very much dictated by the Prince’s schedule - I think we would have wanted the opening to be probably six months down the road - considering that, and the building not being completely ready, even without all of these things we’ve managed to be remarkably functional. The Klub Seniora, the senior’s club, is up and functioning three days a week; we have the Sunday school functioning, we’ve had the Days of Israel, [during which] we held a lot of events here, we had a Shabat dinner here – somehow – for 120 people. We’ve had different But while companies like Perfect Profiles are cashing in on inadequate health care in the UK by sending clients to Krakow, local agents are finding it difficult to get a share of the profits. “Everybody knows Polish doctors and dentists so there is no fear of quality, but I don’t have any customers!” says Jerzy Postawska, director of local medical tourist agent Jorge Group. “The problem is there’s no trend for this here.” There might be no trend in medical tourism in Krakow in Jerzy’s opinion, but medical tourism is big money in Poland. In 2006, there were 450,000 medical tourists to Poland, leaving $65 million in their wake. Revenues were forecast to grow by one third in 2007 and triple by 2013, as reported in Poland Monthly magazine, December 2007. “We know the territory better than anyone else and I think soon there will be many happy clients,” says company director and recent medical school graduate Piotr Oleksy. Anna Spysz I A couple of lengthy dentistchair sessions later, Lee was on a plane back to the UK, with a new set of front teeth, relief from months of pain and approximately 2,000 pounds in pocket. Jerzy’s only competitor in Krakow, Medical Travel Poland, thinks business will soon be good. Jewish Community Centre Revisited t’s been almost one month since I last visited the brand-new Jewish Community Centre on Miodowa Street, though at that time the atmosphere was completely different. As we reported in last month’s Krakow Post, the centre opened with a grand ceremony, which included a momentous visit by Prince Charles and Camilla, as well as many other important figures, and a throng of reporters and photographers. 3 Back at Dr. Nowak’s clinic, Lee’s wife has opted for implants. This means another tidy sum for Nowak and his team, and savings and relief for Deidre Nicholson. The potential for growth in medical tourism, especially dentistry, in Krakow is “immeasurable,” says clinic manager Katarzyna Kusio. The senior centre, one of the first functioning rooms lectures; a world expert on antiSemitism is coming this week. The Rabbi has been having Talmud lessons and Bar mitzvah lessons. So we’ve been surprisingly functional even though the infrastructure of the building isn’t in place yet. To read more, visit >> www.krakowpost.com It’s this growth that local agents like Jerzy and Piotr want a share of. Yet, as Krakow’s traditional tourism machine purrs into high gear for another summer’s rich pickings, it would seem that for now they will have to wait before the dentist’s chair and operating theatre start earning them money. Krakow Post JUNE 2008 5 www.krakowpost.com News Krakow Debate Section Kazimierz: Revival or Reminiscence? With the Jewish Culture Festival (see Spotlight, City Life) in town this month, Krakow Post discusses a much-debated topic: the “Jewish revival” of Kazimierz. Soren Gauger is sceptical, whilst Duncan Rhodes urges optimism. B efore the devastation of the Second World War, Kazimierz housed a flourishing Jewish community in a newly independent Poland, and the district was home to a large fraction of Krakow’s estimated 65,000 Jews. It was a historic centre of Jewish culture in southern Poland. However, after the events of the Holocaust decimated Krakow’s Jewish population and scattered the survivors around the globe, the uninhabited district fell into neglect and disrepair for the better part of fifty years. Today, the word on Kazimierz’s streets is “revival” – but is it possible to have a true Jewish revival with so few actual Jews living in Kazimierz? Has the neighbourhood simply become a sort of Jewish Disneyland, catering to tourists who dream of a romantic Jewish past, but lacking any present-day cultural reality? Or have recent events like the opening of the Jewish Community Centre and the popularity of the Jewish Culture Festival shown that there is some true Jewish life amidst the memorabilia? A: “It’s terrible to have all these Jewish hotels, restaurants and trinkets in Kazimierz when this is where they were all massacred, and when so few Jews actually live here now.” Just because something is repeated a hundred times, it does not mean it is necessarily untrue. But it does make the idea strangely suspect; if every tourist notices the same thing at a first glance, then surely there must be some complexity going unnoticed, some false bottom to the situation? Bearing in mind, of course, that tourists are not a species of people celebrated for their perceptiveness and intellectual prowess. F: After the events of World War II, it is hardly surprising that those few Jews who did manage to escape Poland and the Holocaust (around ten percent) haven’t been in a hurry to return. Memories too horrid for most of us to comprehend are indelibly printed on the collective consciousness of an older generation, whilst younger generations of Jews may feel no connection with a land which they never stepped foot in – and one which offers less opportunities than many enjoy in America, Canada, Israel, Britain and Australia today. Such a a reality means that Kazimierz will never flourish as a Jewish district in the same sense that it did for six hundred years prior to the war, but it does have a chance to develop sensitively in response to its past, to cultivate Jewish culture, and to serve the needs of the small but growing Jewish community. I would argue it is already doing that, thanks to a small but committed number of Jews and Philosemites (including Prince Charles) who have invested time, effort and money in the district, either for cultural, community or business goals. Chris Schwarz’s Galicia Museum, the Jewish Cultural Centre and now the Jewish Community Centre are obvious examples of the former two, whilst a number of kosher restaurants such as Ariel, Alef and Once Upon a Time in Kazimierz also undeniably contribute to a sense of Jewishness of the district, whether they are patronized by tourists or Three years ago, or especially seven years ago, I could have made an unorthodox case for the survival of a true Jewish culture in Kazimierz, in spite of the almost total formal absence of Jews, so to speak. This culture was understood in a symbolic sense. That is, crossing Dietla one entered a small zone that was a cultural, and sometimes even legislative alternative to Krakow-at-large. A different kind of nightlife took place here; the mixture of homeless people, drug addicts, students and Bohemia, combined with the unrenovated buildings and badly functioning streetlamps made for an ambience of creative depravity. The first Soup Festival gave the impression that things were barely under control, and that things could fly off their hinges at any moment. By this I am not trying to suggest that there was anything particularly Jewish about Kazimierz, but that it was regarded as an “other” to the mainstream of Krakow’s Old Town, and therefore an “other” to the homogenous Polish Catholic lifestyle and value system. The most compelling instances of this were when, for example, the (previous) Pope visited Krakow, and all the alcohol shops were shut down in the city for his arrival, to prepare a properly pious atmosphere. During these times the bars and alcohol shops of Kazimierz remained outside of the city-wide jurisdiction – that is, they were enough part of another culture that they were somehow outside the moral regulations of the rest of Krakow. And so, for three days, all of Krakow drank in Kazimierz. It’s a bit feeble, that it boils down to alcohol like this; but it was a legacy of sorts. But I started off this text by saying that three years ago – more or less to the moment when Poland entered the European Union – I could have made a case for the living presence of Jewishness in Kazimierz; however for the past three years the story of Kazimierz has been primarily one of gentrification (the Prince of Wales’s bizarre input notwithstanding). The steady and cynical development of a “Kazimierz look” for the cafes, the ban on public drinking, and the over-development, piling bars upon bars, have all helped make Kazimierz an “ordinary” part of Krakow, albeit with a fashionable reputation. anyone else. You’d have to be quite blind not to detect a sense of Jewishness in Kazimierz (those synagogues certainly help), but what about a revival? It’s a sad and oft-stated truth that there aren’t enough Jews living in Krakow to support a revival of Jewish culture by themselves, but the beautiful paradox of the current situation is that one is happening anyway. In fact both Cracovians and tourists can be proud that they are actually providing the interest, and therefore impetus, for a revival in Jewish culture, whether they have any Jewish ties or not. This revival isn’t imagined, but can be measured by the increasing attendance numbers of the Jewish Festival (the final concert attracted 13,000 people in 2007), the popular Klezmer concerts that now play in the district’s bars every week and the need of a community centre for the growing population. Meanwhile the interest in Jewish culture amongst young Poles is such that the Department of Jewish Studies at Jagiellonian University is now oversubscribed. You couldn’t have said that ten years ago. A Jewish revival can only ever be a small part of the development of Kazimierz. Ultimately the area must develop, along with the rest of the world, according to the rules of economics. But rather than sweep Jewish culture under the carpet, let’s be thankful that this integral part of Krakow’s history is being preserved, cultivated and celebrated by today’s generation. 6 Krakow Post JUNE 2008 www.krakowpost.com News Poland Martial Law on Trial Walesa an Informer? Staff Reporter A new report published by the Institute of National Remembrance (IPN), a body that looks into crimes against Poland by Nazis and Communists, states that former Polish president Lech Walesa, the Solidarity leader and Nobel Peace Prize winner, collaborated with the Communist Party in the 1970s. Two historians are responsible for the text, Piotr Gontarczyk and Slawomir Cenckiewicz. Will Jaruzelski be punished for martial law? Adelina Krupski C ommunist crimes from over 25 years ago have resurfaced in a Warsaw court. Accusing the former communist leader of Poland, General Wojciech Jaruzelski, of imposing martial law in Poland in 1981, the Institute of National Remembrance (IPN) must now revise its indictment before the trial can begin. The case against Jaruzelski and eight other former officials was returned to prosecutors on May 14th with an order for documentation from foreign archives as well as testimony from further witnesses. Following a request from defense lawyers, the court recommended that the IPN interview leading politicians of the Cold War era, including the last Soviet leader Mikhail Gorbachev, former British Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher and former US Secretary of State Alexander Haig. Gorbachev refused to testify in the trial, regarding the court case as “baseless prosecution.” Having written to the judges and to the parliament about the trial, the former Soviet leader told the official newspaper of the Russian government, Rossijskaya Gazeta, that he has contributed all he knows and has nothing new to add. Gorbachev also stressed the old age and poor health of Jaruzelski. If found guilty of “having led an armed organisation of a criminal character,” the former communist officials face up to ten years in jail. The IPN, a commission established by the Polish Parliament in 1998 to prosecute crimes against the Polish nation, namely those carried out by officials of the communist state between September 17, 1939 and December 31, 1989, said it would appeal the ruling that it need question the high-profile witnesses. According to Stanislaw Kania, then party first secretary and one of the co-accused, these key political figures of the 1980s “contributed largely to the fact that the Soviet Union finally withdrew from the intention to intervene.” As a result, their voice plays a critical role in the case. The testimonies would not only provide the additional information required by the court, but also clarify the international context of the decision to impose the crackdown. The declaration of martial law on December 13, 1981 was an operation against the Solidarity movement, preventing the ongoing democratisation processes. As a result, Poland suffered extreme repression. Over ten thousand arrests followed the crackdown and close to one hundred people were killed when strikes and demonstrations were crushed by the army and police. Solidarity was banned and its leader, Lech Walesa, imprisoned. A curfew was imposed, telephone lines were disconnected, television channels were shut down and national borders were sealed. As Miroslaw Czech from Gazeta Wyborcza states, “The imposition of martial law ended the peaceful Solidarity revolution. It destroyed the hopes of millions of Poles.” Czech maintains that the group led by General / cartoon Dominik Nawrocki Wojciech Jaruzelski was solely accountable for this act. Consequently, the court must examine all the documents, especially those from the Soviet archives, and witnesses must be questioned. Accepting full responsibility for having imposed martial law, Jaruzelski argues he chose the lesser of two evils, claiming that if Solidarity had brought down communism in Poland and the Polish government had not resorted to extreme measures, Soviet troops would have invaded the country. According to Jaruzelski, “Martial law was a rescue for our country and Polish society from a disaster in many ways. I uphold this evaluation with utmost conviction.” However, the IPN claims that preparations to introduce martial law started over a year earlier, in August 1980. Moreover, documents collected by the IPN show that the Soviets had no time for Poland in 1981, as they were running the operation in Afghanistan and had no intention of sending troops to Poland. Historian Pawel Machcewicz confirms that the Soviets were not willing to intervene in Poland at that time. “In my opinion it means that General Jaruzelski had more room for manoeuvre and that he was not under the direct danger of Soviet intervention. He could have sought agreement with Solidarity.” This historical evidence belies Jaruzelski’s version, suggesting instead that Jaruzelski declared martial law as part of his own agenda. Whatever historical truth emerges from these proceedings, Jaruzelski, as former leader of the Polish United Workers’ Party (PZPR), in ordering armed force against civilians did not ultimately succeed in bringing down Solidarity. The movement re-emerged as a coherent opposition, putting an end to the communist regime with the ascendance of Walesa as the country’s first freely elected president. Mr. Walesa is alleged to have held the codename Bolek, and the authors seek to prove that under this name the Solidarity leader provided Poland’s security arm of the militia, the SB, with information about his colleagues between 1970 and 1976. The announcement of the book came on the 25th anniversary of the former president’s awarding of the Nobel Peace Prize. Mr. Walesa is not amused, and even went on national television to say that he in fact knows Bolek personally, and unless the authors of the report don’t divulge the real identity of the SB officer, Mr. Walesa will do it himself. What will happen next is anyone’s guess, but it does underline that no one can hide from the continuing IPN witch hunt, no matter how much good their subjects have done for the Polish nation. Saviour of Warsaw Ghetto Children Dies Adelina Krupski Irena Sendler, a Polish social worker who saved the lives of around 2,500 Jewish children during World War II, died in a Wasaw hospital last month at the age of 98. As head of the children’s department for Zegota, the Council for Aid to Jews, Sendler and her assistants were able to enter the Warsaw Ghetto under the pretext of inspecting sanitary conditions during a typhus outbreak. Together they contrived ways to smuggle out babies and small children, sometimes in baskets, suitcases, or chests, sparing them certain death in Nazi extermination camps. Once outside the ghetto, the children were taken to trusted Polish families, and later placed in orphanages and convents. Sendler kept track of the children’s original and new identities by hiding lists of their names in jars in the hope that they could find their families once the war ended. Sendler was arrested and tortured by the Gestapo in October 1943. After refusing to divulge any information, she was ordered to be killed but was secretly freed when fellow members of the Zegota group bribed German guards. A Catholic esteemed by Jews, Sendler was among the first to be honoured by Israel’s Yad Vashem Holocaust memorial. Despite her great courage, Sendler denied she was a hero. Krakow Post JUNE 2008 7 www.krakowpost.com News Poland School’s Out for Some << Continued from 4 Krakow home. One-day strike by teachers in Poland By a typical twist of eastern fate, Lem was taught mathematics as a schoolboy in Lwow (today Lviv, Ukraine) by Mr. Ingarden’s grandfather, the distinguished philosopher Roman Ingarden. Krzysztof Ingarden will continue to cooperate with The Garden of Experiments, which is a work in progress. A pavilion and a pond are in the pipeline, and numerous events are planned. John Walczak T eachers in Poland went on a one-day strike on May 27th demanding pay rises. The Polish Teachers’ Union estimates that about 70% of schools nationally took part. Its head, Slawomir Broniarz, appealed to parents to display understanding for the teachers’ protest and to care for pupils at home. Apart from a 50 percent pay rise by the end of 2010, teachers want to retain the right to early retirement after 30 years of work regardless of their age and other benefits laid down in Some children in Poland got an extra holiday the Teachers’ Charter. Slawomir Broniarz said in a TV interview, “This strike did day of the strike. Broniarz said that no child who not have to take place were it not for a passive atwould come to school that day would be turned titude displayed by the government and months away – they would be looked after. of silence on its part.” Deputy minister of education Krystyna Szumilas Education minister Katarzyna Hall said that head said the government would hold talks with the teachers were responsible for the care and safety teachers’ unions in order to prevent another posof those pupils who turned up at school on the sible strike in September. London Youth Convicted of Murdering Pole John Walczak A 17-year-old man was unanimously found guilty on May 22nd of murdering a Polish nursing assistant after starting a gunfight with another 17year-old in southeast London last year. Magda Pniewska, 26, died instantly from a head shot after she accidentally walked into crossfire on a housing estate in New Cross. Armel “Toner” Gnango was the hooded youth said by witnesses to have been grinning as he fired his 9 mm pistol at another masked gun-toting teenager. The fight was thought to be over a £100 drug debt. Gnango did not fire the fatal shot, but was convicted of murder because he was involved in the gun battle that led to Miss Pniewska’s death. It is one of the first criminal cases in England in which a defendant has been convicted of murder despite not firing the fatal shot nor intending to kill the victim. Gnango insisted that it was his rival who fired the fatal shot. However, Gnango is criminally liable because he was jointly responsible for the act that led to the murder. The other teenager who fired the fatal shot is on police bail. He has not been charged because of a lack of evidence. Miss Pniewska was walking home from work whilst talking on her mobile to her sister Elzbieta Luby in Poland. Yards away, Gnango had crouched behind a car, taking aim at his rival. As the youths exchanged fire — at least six empty cartridges were found — a stray bullet hit Miss Pniewska. Speaking of the moment that she realised her sister had been hit, Ms. Luby said: “I heard several shots.” Ms Luby asked: “Who’s shooting? What’s going on?” It was then that Ms. Luby heard the fatal shot. “I heard Magda’s last breath. I heard when she fell down. There was silence, then I heard two more shots.” Both gunmen were unharmed and fled. Despite frantic telephone calls, Ms. Luby and her parents had to wait seven hours before discovering that Miss Pniewska was dead. Anna Krochmal, director of the garden, is brimming with ideas for the enterprise, citing a bookshop, a café, not to mention a general expansion across more hectares of parkland: “The garden is especially magical at night, when the lights shine up through the trees,’’ she says. “We are even planning yoga and Milonga dances - the possibilities are endless!” Thus far, children have wasted no time in getting to grips with the garden’s gleaming installations. Youngsters have carte blanche to bang on gongs, jump on trampolines and dangle from telegraphs. And if one of the experiments is broken by an over-enthusiastic pair of hands, it can be confidently assumed that one man would not be in the least bit troubled – Stanislaw Lem. Indeed, some of the funniest passages in Lem’s memoir are his descriptions of the fates of his childhood toys, most of which he smashed to smithereens with great relish. Nuns on the Runway Julie Land Last month, facing falling numbers of enrolments in trainees to become priests, monks and nuns, the Polish Catholic Church decided to change its public image. A number of Polish churches held a fashion show and promotional fair at the Catholic University in Lublin. At the university’s Collegium John Paul II, nuns (but not priests or monks) walked up and down a catwalk decorated with a red carpet and displayed habits from different nunneries throughout Poland. The fair also boasted PowerPoint presentations, films, prayers, souvenirs, and booths where participants could talk to monks, priests and nuns and become acquainted with their way of life. The festivities peaked with a cake baking contest, in which both orders of monks and nuns participated. All of the fanfare was made in an attempt to boost the number of young people interested in beginning a career within the Catholic Church. The dramatic fall in the number of trainees over the last few years (last year alone those taking vows of commitment to the church fell by 25 percent from the previous year) is a problem not just for the Catholic Church in Poland, but for the whole of Europe, as 25 percent of Europe’s Catholic clergy are trained in Poland. It remains to be seen if the employment of habit fashion shows will boost those interested in a life devoted to God. 8 Krakow Post JUNE 2008 www.krakowpost.com News Poland Self-Defence on the Defence Crime Flies Sex scandal rocks controversial political party Polish criminals are being flown back home on special “con air” flights Ania Bienkowska C. Hazen E very month a plane touches down in Warsaw and a shackled shuffling row of men disembarks, each carrying a single plastic bag of possessions. This is the new “con air” flight, deporting Polish criminals who have fled abroad to England, been caught, and are now being sent back to the homeland to face incarceration. “What me, worry?” / photo Natalia Dobryszycka, natalia-natalie.blog.pl W hile the journalists wait on the outside, inside the trial of Samoobrona (SelfDefence) party leader Andzej Lepper and former deputy Stanislaw Lyzwinski continues in the circular court in Piotrkow. Since May 6th both men stand on trial for soliciting sexual favours from females employed in the party office. Lepper was charged in November 2007 for exploiting his public position as a Samoobrona leader to force Aneta Krawczyk, a former Samoobrona employee, into sexual relations with the promise of employment. The charges were brought against him after Lepper lost the parliamentary elections and also lost his immunity to prosecutions. The events in question allegedly took place in 2001-2002. If charged, Lepper faces a maximum of eight years in prison. Lyzwinski faces even more serious charges; if convicted he will face up to 10 years in prison. He is accused of demanding and accepting sexual favors from four women, and rape. He is also accused of harassment and threatening that denial of sexual favors would lead to the dismissal of the women from their positions and the party. The so-called “Samoobrona sex scandal” or “sex-gate” began in December 2006 after the publication of an investigative reporting piece appearing in Gazeta Wyborcza. The article, based on the testimony of Aneta Krawczyk, claimed that she was hired as the director in the Lodz office of the Samoobrona party after performing sexual favours. When journalist Marcin Kaci interviewed Krawczyk, she decided to tell him about the hiring process, which was featured in the original article. Prior to the commencement of the trial, both men denied the charges. At the time of the accusations and original publication of Gazeta Wyborcza, Lepper stated that this was no more than a political witch-hunt. The scandal has received much publicity, however the trial is closed to the media at the request of Krawczyk’s attorney, Agata Kalinska-Moc, who told the Polish Press Agency (PAP) that it was to protect her client, who wanted to avoid media attention. Pawel Hochman, the chairman of the court, also explained to Dziennk that the addressed topics could be so drastic that they will be inappropriate for direct media coverage. Needless to say, the highly controversial affair could put an end to the political careers of both accused men. The criminals are offenders who have absconded from jail in Poland or were awaiting trial. Polish authorities have sent nearly 300 requests to English police for criminals they suspect have fled to the UK. Many are picked up in England on minor charges, but others commit the same serious crimes they are wanted for in Poland. Shipping the criminals back home on an individual basis was proving very costly, with the Polish state footing the bill for the cost of a regular seat on a flight plus two armed guards escorting the prisoner - not to mention the risk to personnel and passengers. Under this system the price of extraditing 137 men in 2007 cost upwards of £3 million. handcuffed for the journey. Not only does this need a minimal amount of security officers on board, but it streamlines the process for criminals arriving at airports on pre-scheduled days once a month. The deportation flights began in October 2007, and have parcelled down extraditions costs to a quarter of what they had been under the previous system. March’s flight, which carried 10 men back to Poland, is estimated to have cost just £8,000. An average of 15 criminals are on board each flight. Polish-English extradition has come a long way since Polish EU accession in May 2004, as an ever-increasing number of immigrants have also increased the number of wanted criminals seeking anonymity abroad. As about one in five crimes in England are committed by foreigners, a need of formalized extradition processes had long been highlighted; but despite a willingness on both sides to work together, no agreement was made, in order to not overburden the new accession state with technological systems which they could not afford at the time. “The deportation flights began in October 2007, and have parcelled down extraditions costs to a quarter of the previous system...” Polish authorities have since arranged the en masse deportation through the Polish military, which established the monthly direct flights solely for shipping criminals. The planes are rented former Soviet Anatov troop transports, stripped down to windowless hulls with long benches on each side, to which the criminals are However, in the past four years, there has been a steady building process of sharing warrants and working on extradition procedures, of which the direct flights of Polish criminals is the latest marker. In the extradition system as it now stands, requests are granted >> 9 through the Serious Or- Krakow Post JUNE 2008 9 www.krakowpost.com News Poland Opinion Mis-alliance by Thymn Chase P Missile Issues / cartoon by Kasia Adamek << Continued from 8 ganised Crime Agency (SOCA) and give Polish authorities 17 days to bring captured criminals back to Poland. The direct criminal flights became an innovative way to combat the overburdening of judicial systems in both countries. For Poland, the number of extradition requests has risen by 14 percent in the last year; this is not only an increase in foreign criminals fleeing abroad as much as a sign of Poland fully implementing the European Arrest Warrant (EAW) system that allows for the process of criminal transfer between EU countries. The increase in criminals, however, has overburdened the Polish administration in bringing them all back - 257 individual flights in total. The English system was similarly overburdened. To further ease the effects of open borders on their judicial system, the English government began a controversial programme that offered foreign criminals £3,000 to serve their sentence in their home country. The con air flights are allowing for this unpopular programme to be phased out. While the flights solve many of the problems faced in international criminal matters in the EU, the 8-month-old system is still experiencing some teething problems. In January 2008, much to public outcry, lawyers had successfully argued for the release of two violent Polish offenders who had fled warrants in Poland and been jailed for crimes committed again in England. Extradition had gone through, but Polish authorities failed to arrange the con air flight in time, and since they had been jailed for three weeks past the 17-day extradition deadline - a violation of their human rights - they were set free. Even when the criminals are not released, frustration still remains, as when the flights are not arranged by the deadline, the issue must go back to court for permission to extend the time limit extradition prisoners can be held. This happened last December when the direct flight was delayed due to fog. Of 19 men currently awaiting extradition, nine are already past the 17-day mark. In the wake of Gordon Brown refusing the House of Lords’ request to set caps on immigration, foreign criminals are just another facet to the often hyperbolized problems of immigrants overburdening social systems. At the very least, the “con air” flights create a picture with a punch: foreign criminals are being swept up in bulk and are being dealt with accordingly. oland has recently taken centre stage in the vaunted theatre of geo-politics, as it is the chosen “third site” for the Bush Administration’s anti-ballistic missile defence shield. The negotiations have entered their second year but are rapidly approaching a boiling point. Bush and his advisors are frustrated and visibly annoyed at Polish PM Donald Tusk’s refusal to simply roll over to US requests, which is the response Washington has grown accustomed to from other Polish leaders, specifically ones of the twin-brother varieties. siles in Poland poses a strategic threat to Poland itself. This line of reasoning is a bit tough to swallow. If the US places missiles in Poland, even for defensive purposes, Poland would immediately be susceptible to attacks from any third parties, i.e. Russia or Iran, wishing to cripple US strategic military assets. In fact Putin and newly-elected Russian PM Dmitry Medvedev have both recently reiterated that the US plan threatens Russia’s national security and if a missile site were to be completed then Russia would immediately target nuclear warheads at Poland. Not so friendly. On Tuesday May 13th Tusk announced that Poland was turning down the US offer of $47 million to modernize the Polish military in exchange for allowing the US to install anti-ballistic missiles in Poland for its “third site.” This decision came after a year of negotiations between the US and Poland, which started out quite favourable for the US shield in May 2007 under the leadership of hawkish former Polish PM Jaroslaw Kaczynski. Since Tusk and his Civic Platform party were elected in November, negotiations have grown increasingly tense and culminated with his decision of May 13th. According to the Bush Administration, the purpose of the missile shield is to defend Poland, NATO allies and the EU from potential “rogue” nations like Iran. With this said the US is refusing to provide Poland with the money, resources and arms to adequately fortify the proposed missile base and/or modernize the army to sufficiently defend itself against the kind of threats they would face having such a missile system placed in Polish territory. “Unless the Americans significantly improve their offer, we’ll return to the talks only with Mr. Bush’s successor in place,” said an official close to both Tusk and Foreign Minister Radek Sikorski, chief Polish negotiator. “The United States, our ally, is completely free to make decisions. We have the rights and we will exercise the right to formulate our own conditions, our expectations,” said Tusk. He also acknowledged that the missile shield is generally unpopular in Poland and that it would clearly agitate and antagonize an increasingly aggressive Russia. In the ensuing weeks after Tusk’s announcement negotiations have all but broken down. It appears that Washington has no intention of agreeing to Tusk’s appeals for a larger aid package and has flat out refused to provide Poland with Patriot missiles. The strange twist is that even though Washington isn’t giving up any strategic concessions, they are growing more insistent that a deal can and must be reached as soon as possible. The gap is widening in terms of the rational debate and if negotiations do break down it seems likely that Bush will try to circumvent diplomacy by signing a deal with Kaczynski himself. Those that strongly oppose the missile defense plan can only hope that Tusk has the final say. He hasn’t succumbed to the East vs. West Cold War mentality that has dominated the negotiations and media coverage up to this point. And even though the US and Russia are clearly assuming their well-rehearsed roles of forcing Poland’s hand, this doesn’t necessarily mean that Poland has to once again play the pawn. For more articles about missile defense log onto: According to recent statements from assistant www.spacewar.com Secretary of State and head US negotiator Stephen Mull and comments from Bush himself, it seems as is if the administration isn’t taking Tusk seriously at all. Not even INTERNATIONAL RELATIONS two days after Tusk’s speech STUDIES IN ENGLISH Bush met semi-secretly with Polish President Lech Kaczynski. A ROUTE TO AN INTERNATIONAL CAREER Poland has a dual executive sysJoin us at the Tischner European University – citizens, perfectly prepared to compete in a young and dynamic higher education the European labour market. 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Westerplatte 11 31-033 Krakow, POLAND www.teu.krakow.pl e-mail: [email protected] tel.: + 48 12 683 24 82 E u ro 10 Krakow Post JUNE 2008 F GROUP A or three weeks this June half of Europe, and a large part of the world, will stop what they’re doing, flock to the nearest TV screen and crack open a beer, as they watch sixteen of the greatest footballing nations on the continent compete for the coveted European Championship trophy. For the first time in the competition’s history, Poland will be amongst t h o s e nations. June 7th, 18:00 Basel, Switzerland Switzerland Czech Republic June 7th, 20:45 Geneva, Switzerland Turkey Portugal June 11th, 18:00 Geneva, Switzerland Portugal Czech Republic June 11th, 20:45 Basel, Switzerland Turkey Switzerland June 15th, 20:45 Basel, Switzerland Portugal Switzerland June 15th, 20:45 Geneva, Switzerland Czech Republic Turkey 1 2 3 4 Led by Dutch coach Leo Beenhakker, Poland managed at their 13th attempt to not only qualify for the finals, but t o top their qualifying group in a memorable campaign which included a 2-1 defeat over Portugal. Despite topping qualification, Poland nonetheless find themselves in a tough group comprising of co-hosts Austria, a weaker team but surely a threat on their home turf, Croatia, one of the strongest teams in the qualifying rounds who twice defeated England, and their old foe – Germany. The Germans are favourites to win both the group and the tournament, but with Croatia missing key striker Eduardo da Silva through injury the Poles look a strong bet for reaching the quarters. Results Table Group A P W D L GD Pts Quarter Final 1 FINA June 19th, 20:45 Basel, Switzerland 1st Group A 2nd Group B June 29th, 20:45 Semi Final 1 Winner Semi Final 1 June 25th, 20:45 Basel, Switzerland Winner Winner Quarter Final 1 Quarter Final 2 Quarter Final 2 June 20th, 20:45 Vienna, Austria 1st Group B 2nd Group A 1 2 3 4 Results Table Group B P W D L GD Pts GROUP B Group A looks to be the weakest of the four groups with Portugal and Czech Republic favourites to go through ahead of Turkey and co-hosts Switzerland, whereas Group C has been labelled 2008’s “group of death,” with giants France, Italy and Holland drawn against one another, along with a strong Romanian side. Group D looks to be the most open of the four, with Euro 2004 champions Greece set to play serial underachievers Spain, as well as Scandinavia’s only representative, Sweden, and a promising Russian team. Famously there will be no place for England, Scotland, Wales or Ireland, all of whom suffered from disappointing qualifying campaigns. The action begins on June 7th, at 6 pm when Switzerland take on the Czech Republic at St. Jakob-Park in Basel, Switzerland. Group games will take place until June 18th, with quarter finals kicking off the day after, before a small break precedes the semi finals on the 25th and 26th June. The final of the 2008 UEFA European Football Championship takes place on 29th June at Vienna’s Ernst Happel Stadium. 2 0 0 8 June 8th, 18:00 Vienna, Austria Austria Croatia June 8th, 20:45 Klegenfurt, Austria Poland Germany June 12th, 18:00 Klegenfurt, Austria Germany Croatia June 12th, 20:45 Vienna, Austria Poland Austria June 16th, 20:45 Klegenfurt, Austria Croatia Poland June 16th, 20:45 Vienna, Austria Germany France D espite taking part in seven World Cup Finals, Poland qualified for the Euro Finals for only the first time in 2008. The bookies have them at 41/1 to win the tournament. The Germans are favourites at 9/2, whereas Austria bring up the rear at 100/1. Cristiano Ronaldo is this year’s favourite to win 2008’s Golden Boot. C o-hosts Switzerland will be hoping for a bit more luck than in World Cup 2006. After drawing 0-0 with France they defeated both Togo and South Korea 2-0 only to lose to Ukraine on penalties following a 0-0 draw. They became the first team in the tournament’s history to go home without conceding a goal in regulation time. E ngland may have not made the Euro 2008 finals, but their fans may take some consolation from the fact that they inflicted on Austria their worst ever defeat almost exactly one hundred years ago. On June 8th 1908 5,000 spectators watched England beat their hosts 11-1 in the Hohe Warte Stadium in Vienna. WINN K i c k s O f f ! Krakow Post JUNE 2008 11 Polska Song While some were mourning England’s failure to qualify for Euro 2008, two industrious young Brits - William Hetherington and Rupert Slade - decided to find another team to support, Poland, and wanted to encourage others to do the same. So they wrote a song about it! Below are the lyrics to the “Polska Song (Come Back Tomaszewski* - All is Forgiven).” You can listen to this gem at their MySpace page: www.myspace.com/londontowarsaw GROUP C June 9th, 18:00 Zurich, Switzerland Romania France June 9th, 20:45 Berne, Switzerland Italy Netherlands June 13th, 18:00 Zurich, Switzerland Romania Italy *Jan Tomaszewski was the goalkeeper of the Polish team in 1973, who famously kept England from qualifying for the World Cup that year. June 13th, 20:45 Berne, Switzerland France Netherlands June 17th, 20:45 Berne, Switzerland Romania Netherlands S itting in the pub The final whistle’s still ringing in my ears All our hopes are dashed And summer laughter’s turned to tears June 17th, 20:45 Zurich, Switzerland Italy France 1 2 3 4 Results Table Group C P W D L GD Pts But I’m shaken blues The Quarter Final 3 AL June 21st, 20:45 Basel, Switzerland 1st Group C 2nd Group D 5 Vienna, Austria Winner Semi Final 2 sound of singing full of pride. Haven’t you heard the news? Poland’s gone and qualified. Quarter Final 4 June 22nd, 20:45 Vienna, Austria 1st Group D 2nd Group C 1 2 3 4 Results Table Group D P W D L GD Pts GROUP D June 10th, 18:00 Innsbruck, Austria Spain Russia June 10th, 20:45 Salzburg, Austria Sweden Greece June 14th, 18:00 Innsbruck, Austria Spain Sweden June 14th, 20:45 Salzburg, Austria Russia Greece June 18th, 20:45 Salzburg, Austria Spain Greece June 18th, 20:45 Innsbruck, Austria Sweden Russia S from my Semi Final 2 June 26th, 20:45 Vienna, Austria Winner Winner Quarter Final 3 Quarter Final 4 NER In the final game, All we needed was a draw, But Beckham couldn’t bend it, And now three lions roar no more panish heartthrob Enrique Iglesias has been chosen to sing the official Euro 2008 song “Can You Hear Me?” on the night of the grand final in Vienna. UEFA commercial director Philippe Margraff said: “Enrique is the perfect choice for us - he is an international superstar who loves football and has European roots.” N ot to be outdone, Jamaican raggamuffin, Shaggy, has chipped in with not one but two UEFA-endorsed efforts of his own, entitled “Like a Superstar,” and “Feel The Rush.” The video of the latter features official mascots Trix and Flix canvassing support in the Caribbean before chartering a jet back to Europe with the popstar in tow. T he official match ball for 2008, made by Adidas, has been fittingly named “EUROPASS.” Silver and black in colour, the balls has a special “goosebump” texture which will help players control the ball, no matter what the weather. The official slogan of the tournament is “Expect Emotion.” Preferably tears from Ronaldo... Polska, Polska, naprzod Polska, You’re our boys in white and red. Polska, Polska, Come on Poland. Go where others fear to tread. From London to Warsaw From The King’s Head to The Swan Polska, Polska, naprzod Polska Together we are strong. Don’t look so down Says Magda pulling me another beer, Wipe away that frown And find yourself another team to cheer. Whatever colours we wear Our passion is the same ‘Cos football’s here to share So come and join us in the beautiful game Well my team are firing blanks And the summer fills me with woe I may not know Krakow from Gdansk But I’m willing to give it a go Polska, Polska, naprzod Polska, You’re our boys in white and red. Polska, Polska, Come on Poland Go where others fear to tread. From London to Warsaw From The King’s Head to The Swan Polska, Polska, naprzod Polska Together we are strong. 12 Krakow Post JUNE 2008 www.krakowpost.com Sporting Post Rocky Road for Poland to Euro That Other June Championship Daniël van Hoven C. Hazen T he road to the Euro 2008 appears to be a rocky one for the Polish national football squad, who are about to make their debut on this football platform. A lot of happenings that took place over the last couple of months have made the enthusiastic Polish football fans a bit more skeptical, compared to last autumn, when Poland clinched their nomination after a 2-0 win against Belgium. Poland won their qualification group, beating tough competition from Serbia, Finland and Portugal. Poland’s football scandal of the football scandal taking place under his responsibility. Ever since, it is believed that Beenhakker might not last long enough as head coach of Poland to see the qualifications for World Cup 2010 starting this September. leaving Real Madrid star Raul out of the Spanish squad, Beenhakker decided to not even consider Polish football icon Jerzy Dudek in his preliminary selection. Both presumed standin goalies Lukasz Fabianski (Arsenal) and Tomasz Kuszczak (Manchester United) have played far fewer official games than Dudek did at Real M a d r i d this season, which makes the decision remarkable, since the squad lacks real international experience. B e e n hakker’s Photo / Álvaro Isidoro www.flickr.com/photos/95118645@N00 Dodgy results search for a creative midfieldPoland’s focus on getting preer resulted in Brazilian-born pared for their maiden match Another reason for the press Roger from Legia, who (against at EURO 2008 went off track conference was to prevent a Poland’s procedures) received when it became apparent a lot further drop of morale, after Polish citizenship on April of the country’s football offihaving suffered a humiliating 17th, having been in Poland cials were involved in the larg3-0 defeat in a friendly match only three years, rather than est football scandal the country against the USA in late March. the minimum required five. has seen since the downfall of And things have not got any The Brazilian, now controvercommunism in 1989. Match fixbetter since: Poland’s first real sially turned Polish, is part of ing took place amongst club preparation game for the Euro the 25 men large preliminary presidents, referees, officials 2008 was on Friday May 23rd squad. Every team is allowed to of the football governing body against the very modest FC bring 20 field players and three of Poland (PZPN), which was apSchaffhausen from the Swiss goalkeepers to Euro 2008. parently aware of the situation 2nd league. Jacek Krzynowek without taking action against it, saved the day by scoring the Solid on paper, weak in pracand about 30 teams. only goal, but it must have wortise ried Beenhakker to see Poland Beenhakker speaks out struggle against such a small Despite all controversy, Poland team, while more serious oppowill still be able to present an Although the scandal is not disition awaits. impressive force on the pitch, rectly linked to the players in in particular the highly regardthe national squad, Poland’s In particular the last preparaed Celtic goalie Artur Boruc and head coach Leo Beenhakker tion game against Denmark (on the talented Ebi Smolarek, who immediately organised a press June 1st) will be a good measure got his first chance in profesconference on April 16th to exto see where Poland stands: tosional football under Leo Beenpress his deep concern about gether with Germany, Denmark hakker while both were active the situation and the possible historically is Poland’s toughfor Dutch club Feyenoord, back impact it could have on his team est opponent, suffering their in 2000. while preparing for the Euro biggest defeat ever (8-0, back 2008 tournament, and to his in 1948) and in modern history However, the question remains own position as head coach of (5-1, in 2004) against this side. how Poland will perform. PoPoland. Beenhakker displayed land has never before qualified a sophisticated hint of solidarSelection for the Euro main tournament, ity with PZPN president Michal and during the last two editions Listkiewicz, who announced his Maybe of a lesser impact than of the World Cup for which they resignation as a consequence Spanish head coach Aragones did qualify, they never passed Our sports contributor C. Hazen muses about that other June championship, the Stanley Cup Finals, and what place hockey holds in this football-obsessed continent. During a recent Premier League game, I was getting into it with an Australian about why European football is so popular. Not in that way; even as an American, I appreciate and even, daresay, LIKE the sport. He was waxing poetic over his beer about the need the pitch fulfills in the human heart, not just of community, of pride, of being a part of the fan base together, but the field as a stage, for a miniature war of sorts, for dramas to unfold, for aggressions to get spent. Sports in a way are the equivalent of male soap operas – balance of power, aggrandizing emotions, hyperbolic events; but while the pay-offs in daytime TV are love and intrigue, in sports, it’s running circles around your opponent and perhaps, if you’re lucky, that perfectly placed penalty shot. You get to know the characters, the players, you watch their game grow, their story unfold, how they interact with new environs, this team, that league. That led me to wonder, what did my favourite sport, ice hockey, give back to me? What need in my heart, what characteristics did I identify with, that made it so satisfactory to watch above all other sports? Sure, there’s grace and speed. But really, truly, with hockey, you can’t discount the violence as well. I’m not going to defend the fighting in hockey as integral to the game. But any true fan will have to admit their heart skips a bit when they see the gloves come off. I’m not a violent person; I don’t like to watch boxing. So why do I like it when two hockey players go head to head? It’s personal responsibility. You don’t wait for the referee to blow the whistle; someone messes with one of your teammates, on the next pass you give that extra nudge, a slight hit, let him know it didn’t go unnoticed. It’s retribution. Even a legal hit can draw some blood, and avenging fists need to fly, taking down a bully. In the midst of Stanley Cup play-offs and finding that out about myself, that I value those things, I am indeed amused. Still this November, don’t think I’m voting Libertarian. the group stages, having won only one out of three games per tournament. Also from a statistical point of view, the odds are against the Poles. Germany is one of the top favourites and Austria is one of the hosting countries. Poland has never won a match against the Germans, or an organising country of a big tournament for that matter. Slight hope can be drawn from good and unbeaten records against Croatia and Austria over the past years. Leo Beenhakker has said to aim for the quarter finals: very ambitious for a national team that hasn’t played any matches in advanced rounds on major tournaments since 1986. But these are all statistics from Poland’s World Cup history. When it comes to Euro, Poland still has a blank sheet. Experience shows that teams with difficult or no preparation often perform well on the main Euro event: ill prepared Netherlands (1988), Denmark (1992) and Greece (2004) even took the trophy home. So maybe the rocky road that Beenhakker and his Polish men are on is the right way to success after all. The UEFA Euro 2008™ football European Championships will be held from June 7 – June 29 2008 in eight cities across Switzerland and Austria. Poland will play June 8 (vs. Germany), June 12 (vs. Croatia) and June 16 (vs. Austria). The final will be played in Vienna on June 29th. All matches can be viewed in Poland via Polsat and Polsat Sport. For more information about the participating teams, the players and the rosters, please visit the tournament’s official website: www.euro2008.uefa.com Krakow Post JUNE 2008 13 www.krakowpost.com Business The Costs of Euro 2008 John Beauchamp W hat with Europe’s biggest football spectacle around the corner, a few words wouldn’t go amiss on Euro 2008, being held in Austria and Switzerland - both outstanding football nations, I’m sure you’ll agree. For many, Euro 2008 is an opportunity to see some excellent football, as well as take in the sights and sounds of some beautiful cities of the host countries. All this comes at a price though. For many Poles lucky enough to get tickets to the matches to be held during the European championships, there are still a number of costs that have to be dealt with. A business daily, Gazeta Prawna, recently ran an article on the expenses that Poles would have to reckon with if they went to the first three matches during the competition in Austria (the Polish national team is not playing any of its group matches in Switzerland). So, how much you ask? Well, the sum given is five thousand zlotys (over two thousand US dollars), certainly not a number to be sniffed at, for an eight-day stay. Much of that sum admittedly goes on accommodation when in Austria for the match- es, and, checking prices, rooms go for around eighty Euro a night. Then there’s the getting there. It’s all planes, trains, and automobiles, and even though flying is an option, it is by far the most expensive, with trains and cars getting you there at a fraction of the price. There are two trains a day from Krakow to Vienna, from where you can get a direct connection to Klagenfurt, and the drive from Krakow to Klagenfurt shouldn’t take you longer than eight or nine hours. With prices being what they are, it is also worth noting that for players of the national teams, the championship can be a nice little earner, especially if you have golden boots. Even though figures are hard to find on the estimated earnings of national teams during Euro 2008, one can but imagine the millions of Euro involved. Yet of course most of us won’t be able to go to see the bialoczerwoni, the white-and-reds, play in the championship. But judging by the amount of cafes and bars in Krakow that will be showing the match, how much is going to be spent on beer in Personalise Your Fund the coming month is anyone’s guess. Many have mixed views on the fact that the rights have been bought up by a private station, Polsat, which allegedly paid 10 million Euros for the rights to show Euro 2008 matches. They did a cheeky number by releasing an advert on television that proclaimed triumphantly that matches would only be shown on their digital satellite platform (in order to try and lessen the dent of the cost from decoder sales), even though in reality all matches will be shown on the regular terrestrial channel, it now turns out. But how the national public broadcaster didn’t manage to get the rights to such an important sporting fixture is rather depressing, considering it is also the first time that Poland is actually taking part in the UEFA tournament. Evidently the cost of Euro 2008 is absolutely huge. Looking ahead to Euro 2012 in Poland and the Ukraine, the cost can only be greater, as the amount to be spent on infrastructure is going to be colossal. Huge. Wondrous. Magnificent? Perhaps… For now it’s time to wave those omnipresent Polska flags, free when you buy six cans of Tyskie at your local off-licence. Mada Matyjaszek I nvestment fund groups have had a long history in Poland. The first exchange in Poland, the Warsaw Mercantile Exchange, was established in 1817. Before the 2nd World War seven stock exchanges were in operation - in 1939 the institutions were closed, and would remain that way for decades. (II pillar), amounting to 7.3 percent of the gross salary. By these means, each employee automatically possesses shares in pension funds. Private subjects operate the Open Pension Funds, and participation in OPF is obligatory. The third pillar represents voluntary insurance in private institutions. A new Polish law, titled “The Act on Public Trading in Securities and Trust Funds,” enabled the reconstruction of investment funds in 1991. The Warsaw Stock Exchange was founded on the 12th of April, 1991, just after the adoption of the capital market legal framework by the Polish Parliament. In 1992 the Warsaw Stock Exchange experienced a major high which provoked the establishment of the first investment fund jointstock company, which started managing the first trust fund and selling its units. In 1997 five funds were managed by three joint-stock companies. Over 3.5 million Poles have already invested their savings in investment funds, but the majority of them are still newcomers, and have never experienced a whole economic cycle of the stock exchange. Therefore, they lack the experience in reacting to a long-lasting and fairly deep drop of shares’ prices at this point, after the euphoric bull market in 2006 and 2007. In the following situation the new investors can only rely on theoretical knowledge, on good sense or on experienced investors. The increasing popularity of investment funds among the Polish population was not accompanied by a rise of knowledge in this field. And yet ironically, Polish society is faced with the process of investing in funds on a daily basis, as a new social security reform (retirement pension) is based on these funds. Money from each individual’s obligatory contribution, amounting to 12.22 percent of an individual’s gross salary, goes to the Social Insurance Institution (ZUS) (I pillar) and to the Open Pension Funds Experts suggest that before you start to build your portfolio of investment funds you should first define yourself as an investor and realize the extent to which your funds are personalised. Subsequently, it will be time for a further level of initiation – a more technical approach, consisting of managing and limiting risk as well as studying market trends. Such expertise can only come with proper advice and instruction, something unavailable (for now) for the average new Polish investor. RECRUITMENT AND CONSULTING AGENCY We at GBS know that looking for a good employee is just as difficult as searching for a good employer. When the recruitment process extends over national boundaries and borders, finding the perfect candidate is a real challenge. GBS is a Polish Recruitment and Consulting Agency. We offer high quality services to provide the best outcomes in the recruitment and employment of personnel form a diverse set of business sectors. GBS has a wide client base, catering for high profile transnational corporations as well as smaller commercial organizations. Our approachable business style makes GBS a client friendly company. We look forward to hearing from you! A selection of our clients include: • HCL (IT) • BMS (Construction) • State Street (Finance) GBS Recruitment Agency ul. Basztowa 23/1 31-156 Krakow, Poland • CB&I (Gas & Petrochemical) • Accounting Plaza (Finance) • Doosan Babcock (Energy) e-mail: [email protected] tel.: 012 428 50 69 www.gbsrecruitment.com 14 Krakow Post JUNE 2008 www.krakowpost.com Technology iT’s Coming! Thymn Chase I f you happen to be one of the 16,000 Polish mobile users who are lucky enough to have an iPhone in your possession, you can stop reading… For everyone else you can start dancing in the streets because on May 7th French Telecomowned Orange inked a deal with Apple to bring the iPhone to Orange users in Austria, Belgium, the Dominican Republic, Egypt, Jordan, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia and Switzerland. This announcement comes after months of fierce competition and infighting between Poland’s telecom operators concerning the rights to introduce the iPhone to the Polish market. This is indeed exciting news for hundreds of thousands of mobile users across Poland who have been eagerly awaiting the arrival of easily one of the most hyped gadgets of the 21st century (outside of Japan Blogosphere B alconies are a sacred and little discussed part of modern Polish culture. When I first moved to Poland my flat had a balcony and I thought it was the coolest thing ever. Almost nobody in the UK has one; you either have a garden or nothing. I quickly spotted that almost everyone in Poland has a balcony, which made me feel a bit less special but didn’t detract from the essential coolness of the thing. Over the years I’ve slowly come to understand the central role of the balcony in Polish life. 1. Dog “exercise” area Polish people like dogs, the bigger and noisier the better. Most Polish people also live in tiny flats in massive residential blocks – not a good combination. When the incessant barking of your 50 kilo Rottweiler gets too much you can simply shoo it onto the balcony. Suddenly the dog has a whole new world of exciting things to bark at, but at least the pain is then being shared by 800 other people. 2. Clothes drying area Most balconies are permanently festooned with dripping laun- of course). The iPhone will be ushered onto the Polish market by none other than TP SA Group, which is Orange’s p a r e n t company in Poland. TP is the abbreviation for Telokomunikacja Polska, the largest telecom company in Central Europe and which is listed on both the Warsaw and London Stock Ex- changes. In a behind the scenes note, France Telecom is one of the largest foreign stockholders in the TP SA Group, so it was unlikely that the tender would have gone to any of the other Polish mobile providers. Sorry Play. On May 16th Wojciech Jablczynski, spokesman for TP SA, spoke out about the agreement but revealed very little about the lucrative deal. When asked about which iPhone models would be offered and how much they would cost, he simply replied that he couldn’t reveal any such details. Instead he rejoiced with the rest of the increasingly tech-savvy nation, exclaiming that they were very happy to have signed the deal. Orange hopes to have the phones on the Courtesy of Apple Polish market before the end of the year. Spirit AeroSystems (Europe) Limited Manufacturing Engineer- Mielec Poland Must have a very high degree of proficiency in written and verbal communication in both Polish and English so as to support technical translation between Spirit AeroSystems and their In-Country supplier. Needs to demonstrate at least two years experience in a detail fabrication and machining environment, ideally including an awareness of implementing/embodying engineering changes. An ability to work in and travel between, both the UK and Poland is essential as well as other international travel as required. The candidate must be able to develop and maintain close working relationships with a range of Internal and External Stakeholders. Experience within the commercial aerospace industry is desirable, along with an appreciation of the complexity of supply chain challenges. S pirit AeroSystems is the worlds leading supplier of commercial aerostructures and Systems. It’s European Division, based in Prestwick Scotland, produces components &structures for Boeing, Airbus and Hawker Beechcraft. Please apply stating salary expectations to: [email protected] Ten Uses for a Polish Balcony island1, The Polandian dry. I heard recently that the government is trying to ban this practice. They have about as much chance of banning snow in the Arctic. On the TV news report I saw there were a lot a red-faced women of a certain age with fiercely crossed arms: I’m not sure what they were saying about the idea but it was quite high pitched and didn’t sound conciliatory. 3. Underwear display area Polish people pretend they’re quite conservative and moral but in fact they like nothing better than showing off their skimpies to the neighbors. I have no idea why. The practice of leaving underwear out on the balcony “to dry” often leads to a phenomenon known as “fairy’s panties;” this occurs when you wake up in the morning after an unexpectedly blustery night to find your balcony festooned with g-strings and boxer shorts that have rained down from neighboring balconies. It was four years before I actually had to buy new underwear. 4. “Discussion” arena A balcony is a great place for a frank and open exchange of views with the neighbors; if they’re too timid to come out onto their own balcony to face you it’s often possible to shout directly through their open windows from your balcony. Alternatively you can wait until you see them passing in the street below and share you views with the entire neighborhood. Combat by mop can sometimes be observed 30 meters off the ground between housefraus on neighboring platforms; it’s almost heraldic. 5. Staring platform Polish people like to stare. If staring were an Olympic event the Poles would walk away with gold every time… in fact they’d probably stick around for a bit of extra staring first, but you know what I mean. The balcony is a custom-built staring platform. I have a theory this is what they were invented for in the first place. You’ll sometimes see it in real estate ads: “Fifth floor balcony, comfortable railings for leaning on, plenty of things to stare at.” 6. Panic and hand-wringing potential Poles like a good panic and bout of hand-wringing as much as the next man and balconies provide endless opportunities. By far the favorite is “balcony collapse” panic. Hardly a month goes by without someone somewhere announcing that communistera balconies are structurally unsound and likely to collapse at any moment. Men with overalls and huge bellies come round periodically from the municipal works office and give every balcony in the area a couple of whacks with a massive hammer, then everyone feels better for a while... To read more, visit >> www.polandian.wordpress.com A leading provider of Integrated Security Systems, Alarm, CCTV, Access Control, Automated Gate/Door Systems, Control Room Fit-outs, Data Networks, and Fire and Video Transmission Systems require: First Class installation engineers, with the following criteria: Applicant will be able to demonstrate ability to work with the latest security equipment CCTV, Alarm, Access Control etc. Educated to third level, preferable in engineering Full clean car driving license. Computer literate, with TCP/IP network knowledge. 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Krakow emerged from the war in remarkable physical shape compared to many other Polish and Central European cities, but looting was a problem from the outset of the twopronged, Nazi-Soviet invasion. Some heirlooms were miraculously recovered, whilst others remain untraced until the present. Images courtesy of The Commission for Looted Art in Europe (CLAE) Treasure Plucked From the Trash Looted cross returns to Poland after 60 year blip Nick Hodge The Limoges processional cross was discovered amidst extraordinary circumstances after an apartment clear-out in the Austrian town of Zell am See in 2004. An elderly resident of the town, moving into an old people’s home, had filled a skip with unwanted junk. A neighbour, Mrs. Lydia Gruber, a devout Catholic, caught sight of a plastic bag containing cutlery and a large and beautifully ornamented processional cross and was allowed to rescue the cross from certain destruction. Owing to lack of space, Mrs. Gruber had to store the relic under her sofa until last year when she showed it to a neighbour who prompted her to have the treasure analysed by expert hands. In August 2007 the cross was taken to the local mining museum at Leogang, where the wheels were set in motion for a professional investigation. Before long, Salzburg police had established that the rightful heirs were the descendents of Princess Izabela Czartoryska (1830-1899), founder of the famed pre-war museum collection at Goluchow Castle. In May this year, Count Adam Zamoyski, great-grandson of the Princess and president of the Princes Czartoryski Foundation in Krakow, travelled to Austria to accept the cross. “I am delighted by the recovery of a precious piece from this once magnificent collection,” he said, adding that “any action that led to the recovery of further pieces would not go unrewarded.” “ The chequered journey of the cross began in June 1939, on the carriageway of the family’s home. However, the Germans discovered the hoard in December 1941 and the treasures were seized and moved to the Nazicontrolled National Museum. Following the Warsaw Uprising in 1944, Hitler ordered the collection to be moved to Castle Mrs. Gruber caught sight of a plastic bag containing cutlery “ A 13th century enamel cross, seized by the Nazis during the war, has been returned to Poland and is already on display at Krakow’s Czartoryski Museum. and a large and beautifully ornamented processional cross... the eve of the Nazi invasion of Poland. Princess Ludwika Czartoryska, custodian of the Goluchow collection, moved some of the most precious artefacts to Warsaw for safekeeping, where they were stored under Fischorn in Zell am See, Austria. When the war ended, the castle was looted by local people and dealers and no trace of the collection was found by the Czartoryski family. The newly found Limoges Cross has joined the Czartoryski Museum, Poland’s oldest public museum and itself no stranger to looting. 843 artefacts were pronounced missing from its collections in the wake of the war. Hans Frank, Nazi Governor of the General Government zone of occupied Poland, cherry-picked several pieces from the museum’s catalogue, including Leonardo’s Lady with an Ermine and Raphael’s Portrait of a Young Man. The da Vinci was recovered in 1945, but an empty frame adorns the wall where the Raphael once hung. Following the return of the cross last month, Count Zamoyski expressed his hopes about the emergence of other pieces: “We have long suspected that a significant number of the looted items found their way into local homes, and this find appears to confirm our suppositions,” he said. “We very much hope that the people of Zell am See and the surrounding area will be moved to consider whether they have not come across pieces of antique jewellery, glass, enamel, and similar items that might be from this collection.” Anne Webber, co-chair of The Commission for Looted Art in Europe, which represents the heirs, thanked Mrs. Gruber for taking the first step to identify the cross. “If not for her, the cross would have been destroyed and disappeared for ever,” she said. “There are so many pieces still missing from this wonderful collection and we hope that news of this restitution will lead to others being discovered.” 16 Krakow Post JUNE 2008 www.krakowpost.com nnn Culture Culture Culture Midsummer Night’s Magic CULTURE IN BRIEF Honorary Degree for Spielberg Walery Eliasz Radzikowski: Floating Wreaths on the Vistula Courtesy of The Historical Museum of the City of Krakow Krakow Post’s resident chronicler Angol Anonim reflects on the Wianki tradition R eaders taking a Sunday stroll by the river on the 22nd of June will find some curious objects tangled along the banks. Dozens of wreaths will bob in the water. These sodden talismans, woven from flowers and grasses, have been cast into the waters for as long as the Vistula has flowed. By tradition, the custom takes place on St. John’s Eve, echoing the pagan Midsummer solstice. Now, we don’t want to encourage our readers to forage around in the river (it’s not as clean as it was in Prince Krak’s time, and there may be mutant river monsters), but let’s imagine for a moment that Krakow Post’s correspondent is a strapping, Sir Lancelot sort of a man - a muscular hero who would slay ten dragons before breakfast, and another ten afterwards. Well, if this brave fellow were to stoop down and pick up one of those wreaths, joyous tidings would be on their way to the young maiden who cast the crown. A happy marriage would be on the horizon, not forgetting a crop of bouncy kiddies and a long life to boot (less lucky scenarios we shall return to anon). Looking back into the mists of history, we can surmise that the Midsummer solstice was an exciting time for the early Slavs, who were no doubt ecstatic that winter was out of the way. A Saxon chronicler wrote that May was the time “when every lusty heart beginneth to blossom,” but for the people over in this neck of the woods, it seems that the Midsummer solstice was when things really got cooking. When St. John’s Eve fell in Old Poland, the folk lit fires across the land. This was done mainly by water’s edge, be it lakes, streams or rivers. Men and women danced with flaming torches, leaping over the fires and generally having a jolly time. It was a day when magic was in the air, not least as the miraculous fern flower was in blossom. Folk wisdom held that only those blessed with good fortune would be able to discover the fabled flower. Under this pretext, wild young things ran off into the forests. Technically, the men were searching for the hallowed fern blossom, whilst the women were tracking down rare herbs. However, the old expression “stracic wianek,” literally “to lose one’s wreath,” (cherry, if you catch our pagan drift) might hint at the real nature of what was going on. Of course, when it came to the actual throwing of the wreaths, all kinds of abominable things could go wrong. If the crown was swept away out of sight, the luckless lady would know that wedding bells would not be ringing in the near future. But that was a relatively minor setback compared to some of the other ill omens. If your wreath sank immediately without a trace, it was time to throw yourself into the torrents - you might as well, as plague or death were on the cards either way. In Krakow, wreaths were also thrown in honour of Wanda, the beautiful princess who threw herself into the Vistula rather than submit to German Prince Rytygier. St. John’s Eve was proclaimed the name day of Wanda, and during the nineteenth century, when Poland was under foreign rule, the floating of wreaths became a patriotic demonstration, heightened by the symbolism of the proud princess. The event was organised by public-spirited societies keen to keep the Polish torch burning. During the interwar years, Wianki continued as a popular event, and it endured through the communist era, when theatrical and firework displays were added. Martial Law brought things to an abrupt halt in 1981, but Wianki returned with a vengeance in 1992. Some may scoff at the raucous revelry of today’s show, which involves heinous drinking and general debauchery. But in many ways, the wildness seems very much in keeping with the original rite. All the same, parents still hope that their daughters will save their “wianek” for Sir Lancelot types, and not throw it away on any old tipsy Tomek. American film director Steven Spielberg is set to receive an honorary doctorate from the Jagiellonian University. The filmmaker, who spent several months in Krakow in 1991 during the filming of Schindler’s List, has been selected for “awakening universal admiration in cinematic craftsmanship as well as a devotion to tradition and basic human values, which are visible in his works.” The honoris causa was first introduced to Krakow’s university in 1816 and Mr. Spielberg will be joining distinguished company. Of the 300 or so recipients thus far, legends such as Maria Teresa, Marie Curie, Jozef Pilsudski and Pope John Paul II are but a few of the fabled names. This year, the honoris causa will also be bestowed upon Marek Edelman, the last surviving commander of the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising. However, given that Mr. Spielberg has a rather busy diary, the university has yet to publish a date for the director to receive the honour. A New Director for the Philharmonic Tadeusz Strugala, a celebrated conductor on the international scene, has been appointed Managing and Artistic Director of the Krakow Philharmonic Orchestra. Although born and educated in Poland, Mr. Strugala has worked with some 120 orchestras across the globe, winning a raft of awards along the way. During his travels he managed to assemble an extraordinary collection of conductor’s batons, including nineteenth century relics from England, Germany and France. The new director will kick off the autumn season in Krakow with a tribute to composer Krzysztof Penderecki, whose 75th birthday falls in November this year. Amongst other projects, the conductor is busy hatching grand plans for 2010, which sees the 200th anniversary of Chopin’s birth. GOLDEN OLDIE Night Train (Pociag) directed by Jerzy Kawalerowicz (1959) If only the characters themselves could hear the soothing jazz that floats through this film then maybe their hearts wouldn’t be so dark, and the train would lead them to each other, rather than let them withdraw into themselves. A dewy-eyed woman (Lucyna Winnicka) eagerly running away from Poland’s James Dean - Cybulski - is forced to share a sleeping-wagon with one of the chain-smoking, world-weary characters (Leon Niemczyk - seen in Knife in Water), who we all want to slap back into reality. Trains encourage introspective journeys, so these strangers are not eager to form a bond. As the night flickers by we witness failed attempts by Cybulski to be reunited with his lover. In another mysterious scene, we witness the mass hysteria of bored passengers, who gleefully throw clods of clay at an escaping criminal. At the sea, the train is emptied, and its sunlit, deserted carriages carry us into self-reflection in a last, pathos-filled shot. Helena Dąbrowska (conductress) finally has her kind stoicism justly rewarded with a kiss. Also by Kawalerowicz - Shadow (Cien, 1956), Mother Joan of the Angels (1961), Pharaoh (Faraon, 1966), Quo Vadis? (2001) Night Train : Courtesy of The Museum of Cinematography, Lodz Krakow Post JUNE 2008 17 www.krakowpost.com Culture PHOTO OF THE MONTH REEL LIFE Indiana Jones and the Kingdom of the Crystal Skull Keeping up with the Jones THEME: JUWENALIA It’s nineteen years since the premiere of the last Indiana Jones movie and George Lucas has just announced that he’s willing to produce yet one more if fans are forthcoming. If that’s so, he probably ought to get down to it fast, otherwise poor Indy will be forced to lasso villains from a wheelchair like a sort of gung-ho Ironside. But enough speculation, what about No. 4? Well, you don’t go to an Indiana Jones movie for intellectual fireworks. What’s needed are creepy crawlies, far-fetched car chases, exotic locations and a legend as loopy as the Loch Ness Monster commandeering a hot air balloon on a mission to Mars. This time, our hero may not be encouraged to munch a sliver of live snakes, but the film delivers on most of the aforementioned counts. Given that Spielberg has been so steadfast about keeping the plot under wraps, it seems sporting to remain reserved about details. But as has been widely reported, the setting is 1957 and the director has plenty of fun with the aesthetics of the day (Indy’s leather-clad sidekick is a direct lift of Marlon Brando’s rebel biker in the The Wild One). You’re unlikely to leave the cinema with a deeper understanding of humanity, but the film is aimed at youngsters after all - our 13-year-old critic hailed the film as “super” and awarded it nine and a half out of ten. That said, perhaps the team would be wise to quit the franchise whilst they’re still just about ahead. Indiana Jones and the Kingdom of the Crystal Skull opened at Kino Kijow, al. Krasinskiego 34 SHELF IMPROVEMENT Cracow in the European Core by Jacek Purchla Superlative intro to the city June’s Photo of the Month was taken by Anna Stepska (www.flickr.com/photos/annastepska) “Flying is not that hard - especially for some zebras (University of Agriculture students).” In July Krakow Post will publish the best “Wianki” photo. All entries welcome. Send entries to [email protected] by June 25th. Twenty years ago, lavish coffee table books were a rare breed in Krakow, as indeed were snazzy coffee houses. These days, both are in abundance, and when scanning the shelves for glossy books on Poland, it’s hard to know where to begin. Still, when it comes to a straight history of Krakow in English, there’s virtually nothing on the market. Cracow in the European Core manages to deliver on both counts. The book comes brimming with first class photographs, both contemporary and archival, and the text itself has been penned by one of the city’s leading historians, Dr. Jacek Purchla. The author, who runs the International Cultural Centre on the square, has divided Krakow’s history into 15 bite-sized chapters. Unlike the gentlemen historians of the nineteenth century, he doesn’t aim to charm his readers with wry fables (although the pictures excel on that score), but his writing is packed with vivid quotes and insights. The superb Bosz publishing house has handled this revised edition. The result is the finest book on the market for a general introduction to Krakow. The plates are magnificent (archive images of the Nazi occupation and Nowa Huta are mind-boggling) and Dr. Purchla proves a trusty, serious-minded guide. One to put on your Christmas wish-list. Cracow in the European Core is available at the ICC, Rynek Glowny 25 Language Trips off the Tongue Grażyna Zawada Why do we have two letters (u and ó) describing one sound - /u/? Modern Polish doesn’t distinguish between long and short vowels, yet in old writings there is proof that “u” was spelt and read in the way it is today (rather short), and that there was another /u/ sound that Is Polish really that difficult? Or is that just a myth, an over-used excuse touted by lazy language students? Let’s find out… Krakow Post introduces a series of brief lessons that should prove useful when learning this beautiful language, prepared by a native Polish linguist and teacher. sounded longer and was pronounced something between /u/ and /o/. In the old scriptures dated from the 10th – 13th century the sound was spelt sometimes with /Ø/. In the course of ages the difference slowly disappeared, and only in very local and plain speech one can distinguish that in some words the /u/ is different and /o/-like. The spelling doesn’t have anything to do with it now, yet the letter /ó/ reminds us that there was once such an issue. But how do you know which spelling to use? Try inflecting words containing /ó/ - the letter changes into /o/. Example: robię (present) – rób (imperative); nóż (knife) – noże (knives). To cheer up those who toil over spelling exercises: we Poles have exactly the same problem, and go through the same toil taking dictation tests at primary school. One piece of advice is to read a lot, then your brain will remember certain rules of spelling. Confused by Polish grammar? Send your query to editor@krakowpost. com, and our Polish linguist may answer your question in the next edition of “Trips off the Tongue!” 18 Krakow Post JUNE 2008 www.krakowpost.com nnn Culture Culture Culture Live Review: Music Mendelssohn Music Days Anna Spysz Klezmer Classic The Krakow Post talks to Irena Urbanska, grande dame of Poland’s Klezmer scene O ne evening sixteen years ago, not long after Irena Urbanska began performing Jewish songs in Kazimierz, the phone rang: “It was an old friend of my parents, and she said: ‘Irenka, did you know just how many Jews your father saved during the war…?’ And I knew nothing at all about it.” Orchestra and Choir, touring Italy, Germany, France and elsewhere. However, Klezmer always seemed a natural step: “Przemysl was a typical city in the east with long-established Jewish and Ukrainian communities. My parents had many Jewish friends. Music was played in the house from dawn ing. Longtime collaborators Roman Slazyk and Jacek Holubowski, both renowned jazz improvisers in their own right, provide virtuoso turns on the double bass and accordion. Although now eight albums down the line, Urbanska’s eyes still light up when she recalls her first forages in libraries for old Jewish songs: “This is a kind of music that is hard to be lukewarm about. Either you can’t stand it, or you become enchanted. I belong very much to the second!” she enthuses. The queen of Krakow’s Klezmer scene grew up in the south-eastern city of Przemysl. As it turned out, her father, a composer and longtime organist at the Cathedral, had used his connections at the Curia to obtain Roman Klezmer Catholic birth music has Irena Urbanska in concert / photo Leszek Pilichowski certificates, enjoyed an with which he created false identito dusk. Those were the days before extraordinary renaissance in Krakow ties for Jewish children. televisions, and music was our main over the last decade. Groups such form of entertainment. My nanny as Kroke (two of whom performed “There were many Jewish children Karola used to sing me the Jewish with Urbanska during the early 90s) hidden in the house opposite – in song ‘Rebecca,’ but it always made and The Cracow Klezmer Band are cellars, in attics…. One girl I reme cry, and in the end my mother in demand at festivals across the member very well, Marysia, she was had to stop her singing it!” globe. Irena Urbanska and her enmy playmate, but I had no idea that semble are regularly invited to play she was Jewish. I found out later During those last years in Przemysl abroad, be it Canada, Germany, Isfrom several people what my father before the war, another budding rael or elsewhere. Gratifyingly, rehad done. But he never spoke about musician was already performactions from Jewish listeners have it, as he didn’t do it for glory or ing with one of the city’s Klezmer been resoundingly positive, in spite money. That’s why he never made a orchestras. Leslaw Lic was a child of the singer’s initial worries about fuss about the Yad Vashem Institute prodigy, and fifty years later he singing in Yiddish. for the Righteous.” would join forces with Urbanska to help bring Klezmer back to Krakow. “Jews made such a strong contriShe does not mention as much, but Not long after they began performbution to Polish culture – in many had the scam been revealed, her ing together, he stole Spielberg’s respects they co-created it - one father - along with herself and her heart when the director was in cannot forget or discard such herisix siblings - could have been sumtown filming Schindler’s List. Lic tage…. It should be cultivated,” she marily executed by the Germans, a briefly appears in the film, tooting affirms. punishment that was meted out to on his beloved clarinet. several families in the region. Last month saw the release of Irena Irena Urbanska and Klezmers perUrbanska began performing Jewish Urbanska’s eighth studio album, form several nights a week at Ariel, music relatively late in her career. Jewish Wedding Songs. Her voice is ul. Szeroka 18, Kazimierz. Jewish For many years she was a soloist as disarming as ever, complementWedding Songs has just been rewith the classical Krakow Radio ed by Lic’s exuberant clarinet playleased. Cuartero Casals The Felix Mendelssohn Music Days took place for the third time in Krakow this May, this year in the Centre for Jewish Culture on Meiselsa Street. While highlighting the works of German-Jewish composer MendelssohnBartoldy (each of the eight concerts featured at least one of his pieces), the festival also included works by Mozart, Schubert, Brahms, Beethoven and a handful of other great composers, primarily of the Romantic period. Performing the pieces were a vast array of musicians from all over the world: Germany, Poland, the US, Italy, France, Slovenia, Russia, Slovakia, Austria, Canada, and Spain. I was lucky enough to catch a performance on the final evening of the festival, where the Spanish string quartet Cuartero Casals performed works by Haydn, Beethoven, and of course Mendelssohn. The quartet, in existence since 1988, is comprised of Vera Martinez Mehner on violin, Abel Tomas on violin, Jonathan Brown on viola, and Arnau Tomas on cello, and has won top prizes at several international competitions. I must admit, it had been far too long since I had last been to a chamber music concert, and hearing such skilled musicians perform these moving pieces was a delight to the ears. The programme began with a flowing rendition of Haydn’s String Quartet in D major Op. 33 No. 6 Hob. III/42. Next, Mendelssohn’s String Quartet No. 2 in A minor Op. 13 began as a tempestuous opposition to the calmer Haydn before it, reaching a climax as the musician’s bodies moved violently with the force of the music. In the second movement, however, Mendelssohn’s vigour turned towards the creation of flowing harmonies, though those violent tendencies were always hiding just beneath the surface in his music. Finally, one of Mendelssohn’s major influences, Beethoven, was presented superbly in all of his detailed nuances by the quartet as they performed the String Quartet in C major Op. 59 No. 3. If the aim of the festival is to promote chamber music in general, and to bring one of its most talented composers to a wider audience, then it is certainly growing more successful with each passing year. Canadian cellist Jeremy Findlay and his wife, pianist Elena Braslavsky, are the music directors of the festival and both onetime residents of Krakow. Mr. Findlay promised that the fourth edition of the festival, scheduled for the 8th through to the 14th May 2009, will be an even bigger event, as it coincides with the 200th birthday of the renowned composer. I, for one, am very much looking forward to it. Krakow Post JUNE 2008 19 www.krakowpost.com Extra Post For Sale: Bike Women’s bicycle, decent condition, 26” wheels, “Holender” style, 3 speeds (1.5 working). 150 zloty or best offer. E-mail: [email protected] imlooking4u Hi! On Friday night (25th April 2008) I was in Krakow, at the Goraczka club. I knew a beatiful and so hot girl that has stolen my heart!! Her name is...damn I don’t remember ‘cause I’m Italian and her name was difficult to understand for me (that’s a stupid thing!). I was wearing a lightblue t-shirt...we danced two times then I had to go suddenly and I couldn’t say goodbye to her... 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For rates, call Anna, 511906762 Native English-speaker with Polish roots offering English conversation and lessons in exchange for Polish, in the city centre. Send an email to szatkowski128@yahoo. co.uk if you’re interested! The world of French brought directly to you. All levels catered for. Good rates, motivating atmosphere. Give Mada a call on 604 414 611. DIRECTORY 24-HOUR POLICE STATION RYNEK GLOWNY 29 tel: 012 6157317 24-HOUR MEDICAL INFORMATION RYNEK GLOWNY 29 tel: 012 6612240 24-HOUR EMERGENCY SERVICE ul. Lazarza 14 tel: 012 4222999 TOURIST INFORMATION Ratusz tower, Rynek Glowny tel: 012 4337310 TRAIN INFO in English (PKP) tel: 9436 BUS INFO (PKS) tel: 9316 EMERGENCY NUMBERS tel: 997 Police tel: 998 Fire tel: 999 Ambulance SEND US YOUR CLASSIFIEDS Need to get a message across? Looking for love? Have a TV to sell or a puppy to give away? 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OPENING HOURS: MON. - SAT.: 10 AM - 10 PM SUN.: 10 AM - 8 PM FREE GALERIA BUS GK_lato_Cracow life 260x350.indd 1 Galeria Kazimierz shopping centre, Kraków, 34 Podgórska street near Kotlarski bridge www.GALERIAKAZIMIERZ.PL 30-05-08 18:12:23 Citylife Crac ow -lif e.c om ST L Drop In, Fork Out, Get Served /CL 3 I VA Notes From the Underground /CL 2 > reviews > spotlight Jewish Culture Festival previewed /CL 5 FE U D O S N > CL 5 > by night D N U UN JEWISH CULTURE FESTIVAL F T S E SO >18TH L A IV UN krakow POST > 7 L C > posted Concerts, exhibitions & parties /CL 6, 7, 8 Paul Brody (trumpet) Christian Dawid (clarinet) / photo Pawel Mazur by night CL2 Krakow Post JUNE 2008 www.krakowpost.com Nightlife & Dining Notes From the Underground Conceived under the silvery light of a full moon party in Ko Pha Ngan, raised by lotus-eating hippies in Ibiza and suckled on the milk of Eric Morillo’s mixing nipple, Krakow Post proudly presents their new nightlife correspondent… the smooth, and ever-so-slightly-slippery, Slinky. T rouble always starts with a quiet drink. In this instance it started with about eight quiet drinks. Four of us had settled in at Nic Nowego one Sunday evening for what was supposed to be a low key affair. However, as guests were in town, it wasn’t long before the inevitable introduction to the world of Polish vodkas began. Several hours later we said our goodbyes and I had the good sense not to cycle home, nearly. But what with the streets being so quiet, and the journey so short, I figured I could make it home safely before the last two mad dogs kicked in… However I had barely rotated my peddles full circle before the menacing shape of a police van appeared out of the gloom, barring my way. No sooner had I confessed to having had “dwa male piwa” than the side door slid open and I was surrounded by a group of heavily-armed men in black. A brief blow on the alkomat later and I was being bundled into the van, as if for all the world I was steaming through a nursery school yard at playtime in a ten tonne juggernaut - rather than peddling at 5 mph through a deserted Old Town. So began one of the least slinky nights of my life... After being escorted to my flat to collect my passport, I was driven to be breathalysed officially on Karmelicka Street, and then taken to the station on Szeroka to have my details taken down. “Reason given for stopping him?” Asked cop 1. “Just say ‘riding without lights,’” answered cop 2. As these stalwart upholders of the law did the necessary paperwork, they at least offered me a cigarette and a Pepsi. The mood lightened and in between questions we bantered about women, and I seized the chance to apologise for the behaviour of British stag groups, partly in the hope of endearing myself to them, and partly because I felt it was my patriotic duty. Just as I’d established a rapport with my custodians, two new cops arrived, their faces fixed in automaton mode. I was shoved into another vehicle, this time for a medical on the other side of town, driven back to Szeroka to collect my passport and then taken halfway to Nowa Huta. Here I was invited to demonstrate to the Krakow constabulary the most fashionable underpants money can buy, and made to give over all my possessions and remove my shoelaces, before I was led to what I prayed was solitary confinement. It wasn’t. Three shaven-headed hooligans were already curled up under their blankets and I resigned to make myself comfortable on the last remaining wooden bench, with the help of a couple of smelly rugs. In the steely light of dawn I could just make out above my head the words “jebac policje” etched on the wall. It was going to be a long night. Several hours of surreal soul-searching later and my criminal companions and I were roused by a parole officer (yes, even parole officers are cute in Poland) who dished out our breakfast – three slices of cardboard bread, a dollop of jam and a mug of some unidentifiable, lukewarm liquid. “Smacznego,” I said, in the hope of cheering up my roommates, but if they appreciated the gesture they didn’t let it show. An hour later and a gruff male custodian came into the cell and barked something unintelligible at us, which turned out to be my name, and I was promptly reunited with my possessions - shoelaces and all. I felt an overpowering surge of elation! Tears of joy formed in the corners of my eyes. Surely the end of my trauma was beckoning? But it was all a cruel psychological trick… No sooner had I pocketed my passport than two surly brutes slapped a pair of handcuffs on me and led me into an airless cage in the back of another of those damn vans. This time the destination was Lubicz 21. The final stage of my ordeal was in fact rather civil. A more senior, plainclothes police officer typed things into a computer, another fetched me a glass of water when I complained of thirst. Meanwhile an interpreter arrived for the first time – a female – a lovely, soft, cuddly, sympathetic female! Surely she would take one look at my sweet innocent face, my beautiful puppy dog eyes, and demand that I be sent on my slinky way? My ethereal charm must have worn off after a sleepless night in the slammer however, as instead she merely read me my rights, suggested I plead guilty, and – a phone call to the magistrate later – dictated my four figure fine to me, and a two year driving ban. I was at least, and at last, free to go. Needless to say, after that somewhat chastising experience, I stopped drinking for what seemed liked days, and have since adopted the rigid behaviour of a law-abiding citizen. You won’t see me skipping across the road on a red light sir! Should my newfound civil obedience mean that I avoid incarceration during June, then next month I sincerely hope to dish the dirt on nothing more naughty than which nineteen-year-old I’ve been snogging recently… Until then, drive carefully. Krakow Post JUNE 2008 CL3 www.krakowpost.com FORK OUT G E T S E RV E D In a city renowned for its inadequate service, it’s good to see a few feisty individuals rebelliously flying the flag for good manners, politeness and efficiency. It’s for these precious few that our Waitress of the Month award was invented. This month’s deserved winner, Marta Gibas, serves up spaghetti with a smile at top Italian eatery Aqua e Vino. Posing her some decidedly unimaginative questions is KP’s nightlife editor, Duncan Rhodes. Q: What do you do when you’re not waiting tables? A: I’m an art student. I specialise in painting. Q: What are your plans for the summer? A: Stay in Krakow, work and finish my diploma. I would like to go on holiday if I have time. Amadeus ul. Mikolajska 20 www.restauracja-amadeus.pl Some of the best restaurants in Krakow are hidden away in hotels, as is the case with the celebrated Amadeus restaurant on Mikolajska street. Descending into the 17th century cellar, I was greeted by a decadent interior full of elegant upholstery, refined table linens, sparkling chandeliers - and the odd pillar. Naturally enough, considering the restaurant’s namesake, a musical theme has developed, with violins hanging from the walls, a piano tucked away in the corner and plenty of painted murals of players making merry on their instruments. Needless to say, however, it is Wolfgang himself who presides over the speakers. The cuisine is a mix of international greats as well as Polish classics, from a time long before zapiekanki were invented. If you’ve got a bigger budget than the Krakow Post dining editor then you might want to try the restaurant’s piece de resistance, venison stuffed with shrimp, king prawns and clams. A seasonal menu keeps Amadeus’ aficionados coming back for more. Duncan Rhodes DROP IN Q: What’s the best thing about your job? A: Firstly that I meet a lot of friendly and nice people, and also I am always learning something new. Q: …And the worst thing? A: When the clients are rude. Q: Which dish do you recommend at Aqua e Vino? A: We have a fantastic Tagliata. Q: What’s your favourite thing to do on a sunny day? A: Usually I go to my mum’s home in Borzecin. Q: Where’s your favourite place to party in Krakow? A: Usually we go to Goraczka because we work during the week, and there’s always a party there. Q: What are you doing later tonight? A: I’m meeting my boyfriend. He’s studying medicine. Baroque ul. Jana 16 I was all set to hate Baroque. Not another dismal attempt to woo Krakow’s odious shopping mall generation with a few bright lights and inflated bar prices. But as I settled down on a comfy corduroy sofa and sipped an OJ, I was already taking a shine to the place. Unlike some other attempts at upmarket bars in Krakow, the owners of Baroque have actually spent more than a couple of turnips on the interior décor – and it shows. The orange and brown couches are distinctive, the subtle lighting effective and the playful baroque patterning on the walls, bar and giant red lampshades are easy on the eye. Importantly the owners of Baroque have also bothered to come up with a concept: Baroque is a vodka bar (ok, it’s not the most original concept, but still), and it serves over a hundred different flavours of the good stuff. Factor in a surprisingly reasonably-priced food menu, a newspaper stand, WiFi and cheerful barstaff and overall I was impressed. Are there any shortcomings? Well, Rick Astley on the speakers never does much for your street cred, and (all-too-predictably) in the corner was my all-time no.1 bar crime – Fashion TV. Arrgghhhh! Duncan Rhodes Marta Gibas, June’s waitress of the month www.restauracja-amadeus.pl CL4 Krakow Post JUNE 2008 A D V E R T I S E M E N T S www.krakowpost.com Should your business be here? Be seen in Krakow’s ONLY English-language newspaper [email protected] tel: (012) 4291699 teatr klub galeria ul. wielopole 15 II p. tel. 4225299 VM(SPE[LB,SBLÂX UFMGBY SFTUBVSBDKB!CBMBUPOLSBLPXQM XXXCBMBUPOLSBLPXQM (in the courtyard) spotlight Krakow Post JUNE 2008 CL5 www.krakowpost.com Jewish Culture Festival M S OR M C L I I W US F LEC Mada Matyjaszek T he internationally renowned Jewish Culture Festival will take Krakow, along with its visitors, on a tour around the globe, exploring fascinating traces of the Jewish Community and the diversity of its traditions. Since 1988, the former Jewish quarter of Kazimierz has gathered masses of people around a magnificent spectacle of history, music and religion. Undoubtedly, it is a great occasion to deepen the dialogue between nations and to build a pathway of mutual respect and understanding. For the 18th time in its history the city of Krakow becomes a significant place for Jews and non-Jews to find a mutual space in time. Krakow’s Jewish Culture Festival is the largest and the most important event of its kind in the world. Originally, it was a scholarly conference focused on two cultures, Jewish and Polish. Supported by charismatic figures, > a few highlights saturday 28.06 10:00 p.m.Kupa Synagogue, ul. Miodowa 27 Concert: Rare Gems of Yiddish Song (USA) sunday 29.06 7:00 p.m. Tempel Synagogue, ul. Miodowa 24 Concert: Itzchak Meir Helfgot &Azi Schwartz (Israel) each year the celebrations presented different aspects of Jewish heritage, which helped the festival to grow. This year the festival will start on the 28th of June and last until the 6th of July. For nine days Kazimierz will resound with Klezmer and Hasidic music. Performers play on a spacious square on Szeroka Street and in the old synagogues, although some of the most exciting moments are experienced on Plac Nowy, during the “off-scene” of the festival. Artists appear, seemingly ad hoc, on buildings’ roofs and play live music to a delighted crowd, dancing and cheering. Furthermore, there are films, performances and exhibitions to see, and a chance for the audience to actively participate in various workshops. Traditionally, there are Yiddish and Hebrew language courses, calligraphy sessions, dance and Hasidic singing classes, Jewish cuisine monday 30.06 TUR ES COO KING CAL workshops, theatre performances, art and photo exhibitions, presentations, lectures and speeches, and visiting tours around Kazimierz’s synagogues. All of these events are led professionally by local and international experts, and often accompanied by brilliant Klezmer music played by famous artists from around the world. This year the festival’s programme concentrates on one leading element - the 60th anniversary of the proclamation of the State of Israel. The majority of the festival’s concerts will be dedicated to Israeli music, showing its multicultural character. The organizers will present the Klezmer group Oy Division, from downtown Tel Aviv, a band with a passion for Eastern European Jewish tunes; Sephardic Yasmin Levy, who combine Latino music with Turkish influences; one of the world’s leading percussionists, Zohar Fresco; talented saxophonist Daniel Zamir; and David d’Or – renowned as a leading counter-tenor wednesday 02.07 7:00 p.m. Tempel Synagogue, ul. Miodowa 24 Concert: La Diaspora Sefardi (Spain) 10:00 p.m.Tempel Synagogue, ul. Miodowa 24 Concert: Zohar Fresco and Daniel Zamir (Israel) 7:00 p.m. Tempel Synagogue, ul. Miodowa 24 Concert: Yasmin Levy (Israel) 10:00 p.m.Tempel Synagogue, ul. Miodowa 24 Concert: Klezmer and Gypsy Musicians tuesday thursday 01.07 7:00 p.m. Tempel Synagogue, ul. Miodowa 24 Concert: Oy Division (Israel) 10:00 p.m.Tempel Synagogue, ul. Miodowa 24 Erik Friedlander performs John Zorn’s music K S P O SH 03.07 5:00 p.m. Kupa Synagogue, ul. Ciemna 15 Concert: Konsonans Retro Ensemble (Ukraine) 10:00 p.m.Tempel Synagogue, ul. Miodowa 24 Concert: La Mar Enfortuna (USA) LIGR APH Y from Israel. Apart from music, the festival allows the audience to encounter genuine Jewish culture, history and tradition – thanks to a series of lectures held on every festival day in the Kupa Synagogue (27 Miodowa Street). With free admission and English translations, everyone can take part. This edition of the festival will also focus on familiarising the audience with the history of Israel on the occasion of the 60th anniversary of the State of Israel. Krakow still has only a small registered population of Jews, and yet, with the opening of the new Jewish Community Centre this year and of course the anniversary of the founding of Israel, there is no doubt that this year’s festival will be an event to remember. friday 04.07 6:30 p.m. Tempel Synagogue, ul. Miodowa 24 Concert: Descarga Maghreb (France, USA) 8:00 p.m. Plac Nowy Concert on the Roof saturday 05.07 6:00 p.m. Szeroka Street Open-air concert: Shalom on Szeroka Street sunday 06.07 8:00 p.m.Tempel Synagogue, ul. Miodowa 24 Concert: Leopold Kozlowski and His Friends posted CL6 Krakow Post JUNE 2008 The Month in Events SPECIAL EVENTS VIII DRAGON PARADE In case you hadn’t noticed, a devious dragon used to live in the cave below the castle. Centuries ago, he went on a spree, munching any mammal (including humans) he could get his claws on. Eventually, a wily cobbler came up with a cunning plan. He left a sheep’s carcass stuffed with sulphur outside the beast’s lair - the fire-breathing fellow ate the bait and promptly exploded. Polish children love this story. Around 1 pm on Saturday the 7th, the annual Dragon Parade will emerge around ul. Dominikanska before circling the Rynek. There will be fireworks by the river that evening. All afternoon on Saturday and Sunday there will be open-air picnics and all kinds of bouncy-castle shenanigans. Join in outside the Dragon’s Lair. when - 7th June where - Various Locations Poster for the 8th Dragon Parade V AVIATION PICNIC The huge open-air aviation museum is one of Krakow’s cult destinations and a fantastic family event is lined up for the last weekend of June. Head over for a picnic with an airborne twist. All kinds of attractions are in store, from climbing walls to bouncy castles. Open 9 am until 6 pm on both Saturday and Sunday. when - 28th & 29th June where - Polish Aviation Museum, Al. Jana Pawla II 39 FESTIVALS 48TH KRAKOW FILM FESTIVAL The coveted Golden Dragon is up for grabs once more. This time round, 1,800 entries have been whittled down to a lean 57. These include 24 documentaries, 19 shorts and 14 animated cuts. Talents from as far afield as Iran and India are all in the running. However, this year the UK seems to be leading the march with 13 films in competition. Unlucky for some? We’ll soon see, but regardless of who scoops top prize, make this fest a must in your diary. As usual, the main base will be Kino Kijow, with back-up from the charismatic Kino Pod Baranami on the Market Square. It’s a cosy affair and directors and actors usually stick around for some questions and a chat after each screening. when - Until 5th June where - Kino Kijow, al. Krasinskiego 34 EVERYONE CAN SING COMPETITION Some of Poland’s most celebrated crooners have won their spurs at this annual shoot-out (or should that be sing-out?). And at 8 pm on June 11th, the finalists for 2008 will line up for their last stab at the crown. The event, held at the superb Rotunda Club, should be plenty of fun, and it will be presided over by some of the city’s top culture cats. when - 11th June where - Rotunda Club, ul. Oleandry 1 18TH FESTIVAL OF JEWISH CULTURE It’s hard to believe that we’re already welcoming No. 18. And if this is your first encounter with the Jewish Festival, you’re in for a treat. The Kazimierz district - hub of Jewish life in the city for many centuries - will pullulate with visitors from around the globe. Film, music, literature and even cookery come together in an exhilarating celebration of all things Jewish. As always, the event wraps up with a street party on ul. Szeroka (July 5th). For more details, check out the Spotlight on CL5. when - 27th June until 6th July where - Various, Kazimierz District Latin American Film Festival IX LATIN AMERICAN FILM FESTIVAL Latin American cinema blasted into the public consciousness with films such as Amores Perros (2000) and Y tu mama tambien (2001). But there’s plenty more spicy stuff in the pan, and this nationwide festival will be offering some tantalising cuts for film fanatics. Beginning on the 6th of June, Kino Pod Baranami will be screening seven choice new films from Brazil, Cuba, Mexico and provided by Cracow-life.com tions, both public and private. when - Throughout June where - Czartoryski Museum (Arsenal), ul. Pijarska 8 PAWEL KSIAZEK - COLLECTIONS Painter Pawel Ksiazek has won a wide following in Poland and his work has started to make waves abroad too. This show offers art aficionados the chance to savour a wide range of his paintings. If you don’t dig his “comic book-like poetics,” you’re sure to dig the gallery’s open-air cafe - one of Krakow’s summertime treasures. when - Throughout June where - Bunkier Sztuki, Pl. Szczepanski 3a EXHIBITIONS FIRST STEP... The National Museum has bagged a 24-carat collection of modern art for its summer show. Works from some of the hottest names in the art world will be coming to Krakow, including Warhol, Clemente, Fischl and La Chapelle. It’s the first time that many of these stars have exhibited in Poland, and all thanks to Rafeal Jablonka, owner of the eponymous Jablonka Galerie in Cologne. The exhibition focuses on American and European luminaries of the last 20 years, and besides the aforementioned four, visitors can catch works by Miquel Barcelo, Sherie Levine, Mike Kelley and Philip Taafe. when - Throughout June where - National Museum, Al. 3 Maja 1 POLISH PHOTOGRAPHY OF THE 20TH CENTURY WIANKI - THE LAYING OF THE WREATHS “Wianki” is a pagan shindig that’s been given a modern makeover. Traditionally, it takes place on St. John’s Eve. As the sun sinks into the horizon, wreaths set with candles will be floated down the Vistula in an echo of ancient rites. That said, before you can say Baba Yaga, a rock band will be blasting out some not entirely pagan tunes from the far side of the river. A handful of big acts will seize the stage, and this year, none other than Jamiroquai will be taking top spot. For more information on the Wianki tradition, check out page 16. when - 21st June where - Vistula Embankment Argentina. Between them the movies have scooped a hoard of international awards, and the festival offers a rare chance to catch them on the big screen. when - 6th until 9th June where - Kino Pod Baranami, Rynek Glowny 27 www.krakowpost.com This show is the National Museum’s contribution to the annual “Month of Photography” Festival. However, as the NM has a fair few venues to play with, their show will go on throughout July, giving us a little more time to drop in. As the title suggests, the exhibition delivers an overview of Poland’s 20th century photography greats, with pictures culled from some of the country’s top collec- Meet him at the Bunkier Sztuki gallery JAN BULHAK Jan Bulhak (1876-1950) has been dubbed the “Father of Polish Photography.” It’s a title well earned. Besides founding numerous societies and serving as Professor of Photography at Vilnius University, he created a MA in TransAtlantic Relations For foreigners at Jagiellonian University Deadline for applications: August 15, 2008 Visit our web page: www.transatlantic.uj.edu.pl Our office: Rynek Glowny 34, 2nd Floor, Room 7A TransAtlantic Studies Office Institute of American Studies and Polish Diaspora Jagiellonian University Rynek Glowny 34 31-010 Krakow e-mail: [email protected] Phone: (48)124296157 Fax: (48)12422 03 64 Krakow Post JUNE 2008 CL7 www.krakowpost.com vast and vivid body of work. Bulhak’s style is poetic in the best sense of the word. He was enchanted by landscape, and he travelled throughout Poland in search of inspiration. War destroyed his world, and his later years will be explored in a follow-up exhibition beginning in July. Well worth investigating. when - Throughout June where - Museum of the History of Photography, ul. Jozefitow 16 CONTEMPORARY BELGIAN ART A leading contender for the crown of best exhibition space in town, the ICC can be found bang on the Market Square. Throughout the summer the centre will be hosting a three-pronged promotion of Belgian art unveiling works by Guy Vandenbranden, Luc Ledene and Janké - artists who are still at large today. The show, entitled “Between Constructivism and Figuration,” runs until September. when - Throughout June where - International Cultural Centre, Rynek Glowny 25 city to the former Royal Hunting Lodge (more palace really) of Niepolomice. From the 21st to the 24th you can catch Strauss’s Gypsy Baron there. Rounding off the month there’ll be a couple more events back in Krakow. The tone remains royal - two concerts of celebrated arias performed in the Renaissance courtyard of Wawel Castle (28th & 29th). when - 15th June until 11th July where - Various T FILM SUMMER CINEMA AT KINO KIJOW Kino Kijow may boast the biggest screen in town, but with summer getting into gear, they’ll have a more modest gem up their sleeves. Every week you can catch open-air screenings of classic cuts of world cinema. Staged in Kijow’s garden, the films are free, but peckish punters can order up snacks from the barbecue and beers from the bar. he Unsound Festival has been bringing top experimental and electronic artists to Krakow for five years now, traditionally in the fall. But this summer, Unsound is going tropical for a special one-night event at Pauza Club. Pauza’s trendy basement will be transformed into a colourful scene from Rio de Janeiro’s kaleidoscopic carnival, courtesy of artist Nathalie Rebholz. Meanwhile, the artists performing will meld a chorus of tropical sounds with electronic beeps and blips. Minimal techno and tech-house will be combined with Latin rhythms, and even CRACOVIAN ART AFTER 1945 Drop into the Krakow History Museum on the square for a blast of avant-garde Polish art. The show focuses on the postwar era, with paintings by some of the most distinguished names in Cracovian (and Polish) modern art. Besides internationally acclaimed hero Tadeusz Kantor, visitors can savour works by Sobocki, Puget and Taranczewski. when - Throughout June where - Palac Krzysztofory, Rynek Glowny 35 Kadebostan, Dobradinha, Andres Garcia, DJ Laolu and Eltron John playing long live Brazilian rap, with artists into the night.The one-off festival is curated by the Swiss label Mental Groove, and organized by Unsound in cooperation with Pro Helvetia. The Hipolit townhouse is one of Krakow’s oft-neglected treasures, in spite of it lying just behind St. Mary’s Basilica. This nostalgic show, which comes under the wings of the “Moscow Days Festival” has been organised by Tamara Trocka, guest curator from the Russian capital. Visitors can admire all sorts of dainty turn of the century togs - think Julie Christie in “Doctor Zhivago.” when - Throughout June where - Hipolit House, Plac Mariacki 3 HENRYK STAZEWSKI (1894-1988) Henryk Stazewski is a towering figure in Polish avant-garde art, both in his own works and his support of other painters (he organised Malevich’s first Polish exhibition in Warsaw in 1927). He lived to the grand old age of 94, witnessing most of the tremors of the twentieth century. This show unveils over 40 pieces of classic abstraction. when - Throughout June where - National Museum, Al. 3 Maja 1 TRACES OF MEMORY What with the Jewish Festival getting underway this month, there’s no shortage of one-off events to savour. Yet for a fascinating intro to the Jewish heritage of the region, you’d be hard-pushed to trump the Galicia Museum. Founded in 2004 by the late and great British photographer Chris Schwarz, the museum offers a dynamic exploration of the Jewish legacy of Poland. The main exhibition, “Traces of Memory,” is nothing short of a masterpiece. Deserted synagogues, overgrown graveyards and other haunting landmarks are all vividly documented. The centre also hosts numerous concerts, lectures and other events - all in all a must on the Jewish trail. when - Throughout June where - Galicia Museum, ul. Dajwor 18 UNCONVENTIONAL ARTISTIC CLOTHING The manorial complex of Dworek Bialopradnicki makes for a delightful day-trip, especially when summer’s in full flow. As usual, the manor itself has prepared a packed summer programme. One of the highlights will be this eccentric show in the newly refurbished “Kosciuszko Inn.” Created by students from the Krakow School of Clothes Design, “Unconventional Artistic Clothing” presents costumes from the most unlikely materials. Pieces made from paper and recycled materials are amongst the bizarre fruits on display. Hop on a bus to get to the centre. when - From 12th June where - Dworek Bialopradnicki, ul. Papiernicza 1 JEWISH ARTISTS IN KRAKOW 1873-1939 Chiming in with the Jewish Culture Festival, this exhibition at the Old Synagogue draws back the curtain on some of Krakow’s largely forgotten Jewish artists. The Krakow History Museum has tracked down many works from private collections, complementing its own selection of pre-war Jewish art. when - From 28th June where - Old Synagogue, ul. Szeroka 24 OPERA, THEATRE & DANCE 12TH OPERA KRAKOWSKA FESTIVAL Summer will offer a bounty for opera lovers. Once again, the Opera Krakowska Festival will be twirling across town. The action kicks off on the 15th of June with a performance of Verdi’s Rigoletto at the Slowacki Theatre. Next up, the festival is taken outside the adebostan MOSCOW FASHION DURING THE BELLE EPOQUE k Fin-de-siecle fashion at the Hipolit House Pauza has swiftly taken its place as one of the hippest galleries on the scene. Their ever popular bar and cafe downstairs has proved a handy springboard. This June, you can catch an exhibition about youth by photographer Bogdan Frymorgen. Parched punters can round things off with a beer in the garden. when - From 7th June where - Galeria Pauza, ul. Florianska 18/5 A r t A s s a u l t : U n s o u n d G o e s Tr o p i c a l TALES OF GROWING B ut what about the artists? Cracovian DJ Eltron John will start off the night with a DJ set, followed by a live performance by Kadebostan. The Swiss band from Geneva have already released acclaimed albums on the Freude Am Tanzen and Fenou labels. Expect moody evocative club music interspersed with Latin American sounds. Kadebostan’s DJ Laolu will also perform a solo DJ set to end the night. Also based in Geneva, Dobradinha features two Brazilian female vocalists, Natascha and Paula, accompanying Andres Garcia on electronics, mixing minimal techno with Brazilian funk. Garcia, who also performs with Dandy Jack as one half of John Keys, will play a solo set with material off his solo single on Connaisseur Superier as well. when: 14th June, 10pm where: Klub Pauza, ul. Florianska 18 www.unsound.pl CL8 Krakow Post JUNE www.krakowpost.com 2008 Screenings kick off daily at 9:30 pm. when - Throughout June & July where - Kino Kijow, al. Krasinskiego 34 FILMS OF ALEJANDRO JODOROWSKY As a follow-up to the Festival of Latin American Cinema, Kino Pod Baranami will be shining a spotlight on one of the most eccentric figures from that sweltering part of the world. Born in Chile to Russian Jewish émigrés, Ajejandro Jodorowsky has been described as a shaman, a charlatan, a mad genius and much more besides. His magical visions have won cult status, and like any self-respecting genius, he tended to write, direct, score and star in his creations. So is the legend deserved? Find out for yourself at Kino Pod Baranami, where three films are lined up plus a documentary feature. when - 10th until 13th June where - Kino Pod Baranami, Rynek Glowny 27 IN THE MOOD FOR BJORK Everyone’s favourite Icelandic pixie is taking top bill today at the hip Kino Pod Baranami. The occasion is the Polish premiere of computer-animated movie Anna and the Moods, in which Bjork takes the lead role - albeit in animated form! As a special complement to this short film, the valiant folks at Pod Baranami have charmed Universal into allowing a special screening of some other classic Bjork material. Some of her most fantastical music videos - rarely seen on the big screen will get an airing prior to the main feature. A must for all Bjorkists and film aficionados! when - 14th June where - Kino Pod Baranami, Rynek Glowny 27 LIVE MUSIC CLASSICAL CONCERTS: THE KRAKOW PHILHARMONIC The Krakow Philharmonic rounds off its season with a pair of crowd pleasers on the 13th and 14th of June. Bach’s Mass in B Minor BMV 232 is on the cards. You can also catch the orchestra in action on the 6th and 7th, when Messaien, Ravel and Debussy are pencilled in. Sadly, the great composers can’t make it in person, but guest American pianist Eugene Indjic will be tinkling the ivories alongside the Cravovian ensemble. when – Throughout June where - Philharmonic Hall, ul. Zwierzyniecka 1 GUSGUS Cool kids of Krakow will be delighted by the news that Earth, Biggi Veira and President Bongo - aka GusGus - are heading our way in June. These Icelandic eccentrics have enjoyed a huge surge in popularity in recent years, although they’ve in fact been around since 1995. Their music is a bizarre and uplifting mix of electro, house, pop and trip-hop, with plenty of drama thrown into their live shows. Essential for anyone interested in the alternative dance scene. when - 6th June where - Studio Club, ul. Budryka 4 &INE4ASTE3INCE Films of Jodorowsky: Kino Pod Baranami aural punishment to anyone within hearing distance of the Blonia on June 28th. The Salt Mines are expecting record numbers on this day. If you have been corrupted by the dark side and simply insist on going to see the Canadian songstress, then you can check out www.maybkrakow.pl - the event’s official website - and buy tickets. If there is any justice in this world a freak iceberg storm will rain down from the heavens just as Celine bursts into “My Heart Will Go On...” giving her fans their just desserts and raising the average IQ of Cracovians by around 50 points. when - 28th June where – Blonia CLUB MUSIC WHERE2B IN JUNE New in town? Don’t know your Prozak from your Przychodnia or your Cien from your Chill Out? Grab a Where2b nightlife guide from around town, or simply make a note of the following midweek shindigs to be sure you’re in the centre of the action - Mixer@Prozak on Mondays, Today@Ministerstwo on Tuesdays, Black Cherry@Frantic on Wednesdays, Sex on Wax@Cien on Thursdays. See you at the Mardi Gras! when - Throughout June where - Various Clubs QUSHI BIRTHDAY PARTY A mash-up of the first order is in the making at Qushi Club on the 20th of June, with turntablist extraordinaire J-Bounce, joined by fellow wizards of sound Mental Cut and the Fluowankaz. The latter are celebrating their 1st birthday, as is the club itself, so it should be a big one. when - 20th June where - Qushi Club, ul. Szczepanska 3 2YNEK'ÐWNY+RAKÐW TELWWWHAWELKAPL CELINE DION IN CONCERT Not since the Nazis and their Panzer tanks arrived in 1939 have the citizens of Poland trembled with such fear and horror – Celine Dion is coming to Krakow! The renowned torturer will be arriving with her deadly instruments (viz. a microphone and some very large speakers) to dish out excruciating Jamiroquai plays the “Wianki Festival”