wanita dalam mata
Transcription
wanita dalam mata
STUDI LAPANGAN WANITA DALAM MATA WANITA Persepsinya Terhadap Iklan Dalam Majalah Wanita (Women's Perceptions Toward Advertisements in Women's Magazines) Oleh Bianca Wolloghan UNIVERISTAS MUHAMMADIYAH MALANG KERJA SAMA DENGAN ACICIS ABSTRAK BAB I: PENDAHULUAN Latar Belakang Definisi iklan adalah: "Komunikasi non-pribadi yangdibayar oleh sponsor baik perusahaan produk atau jasa-jasa." (Belch &Belch, 1998) Sering dengan perkeinbangan teknologi, membuat dunia periklanan juga berkembang, terutama terkait dengan media yang dipergunakan untuk berkomunikasi dengan masyarakat. Media periklanan meliputi: • Koran • Journal Bisnis • Majalah • Reklame • Televisi • internet • Radio • • Sponsor dan sebagainya Brosur Perusahaan dapat mengiklankan produknya sesuai dengan wilayahnya, yaitu lokal, domestik dan internasional. Usaha periklanan dibedakan sesuai dengan wilayah maupun negara dengan mempertimbangkan unsur kebudayaan, sejarah dan bahasa. Definisi kebudayaan adalah: "Pengetahuan, percayaan, kesenian, akhlak, adat- istiadat dan kemampuan lain dan kebiasaan yang dilakukan orang sebagaianggota dari masyarakat." (Neiletal, 1999) Kebudayaan sangat penting dalam keberhasilan sebuah iklan. Jika komunikasi ini tidak diperhatikan, tidak menutup kemungkinan orang akan salah mengerti. Misalnya saja, ada banyak produk khusus wanita, antara lain industri kosmetika, yang mengeluarkan biaya sangat tinggi agar bisa mengiklankan produknya di majalah wanita, televisi, radio dan sebagainya. Tentu saja media diharapkan bisa mengkomunikasikan produk sehingga bisa diterima oleh masyarakat luas. Penelitian ini difokuskan terhadap periklananan di majalah wanita dan penggambaran perempuan sebagai model dalam iklan tersebut. Rumusan Masalah 1. Bagaimana gambaran perempuan sebagai model iklan di majalah wanita? 2. Bagaimana persepsi perempuan Indonesia terhadap penggambaran perempuan sebagai model iklan di majalah wanita? Tujuan Penelitian Tujuan penelitian ini adalah: 1. Menganalisa dan membandingkan bagaimana model iklan dari majalah berikut ini tentang penggambaran perempuan Indonesia. i. Cosmopolitan (Edisi Indonesia) ii. Kartini iii. Femina 2. Mendapatkan persepsi perempuan Indonesia secara umum terhadap penggambaran perempuan sebagai model iklan dari majalah tersebut. Metodologi Metodologi yang dipergunakan adalah dengan wawancara langsung terhadap responden. Kemudian hasilnya dikelompokkan sesuai dengan kategori iklan dan jawaban responden. II Metodologi Penelitian Akademik Koran 1 Penelitian Utama Kumpulan iklan dari majalah: Sumber Internet Kartini Artikel/journal Buku-buku periklanan Cosmopolitan Femina dan media massa Menganalisa data Menganalisa iklandari majalah wanita Wawancara Mendalam Dengan Sampel Peremuan Indonesia Kesimpulan-kesimpulan Menganalisa semua data III Dalam penelitian ini, ada 40 responden yang berhasil diwawancarai. Pertanyaan yang diajukan meliputi: 1. Apakah Anda sudah pernah membaca majalah Cosmopolitan, Femina atau Kartini? 2. Berapa kali sebulan Anda membaca majalah wanita? Sering/Jarang/Kadang-kadang? 3. Apakah Anda suka menonton televisi atau menonton film di bioskop? 4. Biasanya, apa program televisi yang paling disukai? Program/film Indonesia atau Barat? 5. Berapa umur Anda? 6. Apa agama Anda? 7. Apakah Anda masih kuliah atau sudah bekerja? 8. Menurut Anda, perempuan Indonesia yang 'ideal' punya sifat seperti apa? 9. Bagaimana tentang iklan dan model yang disukai dan tidak disukai? Jelaskan alasan Anda. 10. Menurut Anda, model yang mana paling mencerminkan perempuan Indonesia? Jelaskan alasan Anda. 11. Bagaimana gaya pakaian yang sesuai untuk perempuan Indonesia? (shown appendices A: 1,2,3) Jelaskan alasan Anda. 12. Bayangkan jika Anda mirip model dari iklan ini, Anda ingin seperti model yang mana? Jelaskan alasan Anda. 13. Bayangkan jika memiliki uang yang sangat banyak (tak terbatas), produk apa saja yang ingin Anda beli, produk kosmetik yang ada sini atau tidak? Kenapa? IV II: DESKRIPSI WILAYAH PENELITIAN Wawancara dilaksanakan di wilayah Kota Malang, sehingga kesimpulan terbatas pada responden yang berada di Kota Malang. Sampel responden dipilih secara random. Batasan Penelitian Ada beberapa batasan berkaitan dengan penelitian ini. Batasan ini termasuk: 1. Bahasa Indonesia mungkin dapat menyebabkan kesalahan dalam menafsirkan. 2. Batasan kebudayaan dapat menyebabkan perempuan sebagai responden, dituntut lebih sopan atau tertutup. Peralatan Penelitian Penelitian ini mempergunakan beberapa iklan yang ada di majalah Femina, Kartini dan Cosmopolitan, (17) sebagai alat bantu saat wawancara. Majalah tersebut dipilih dalam penelitian ini, karena beroplah besar, sehingga jumlah pembaca juga banyak. BAB III: HASIL PENELITIAN DAN ANALISA DATA Analisa periklanan dari Majalah Wanita Indonesia Kartini dan Femina Majalah wanita Kartini dan Femina ditujukan kepada pembaca yang sama, karena majalah tersebut menjelaskan topik yang sama. Demikian pula dengan iklan yang ditampilkan baik berupa produk dan jasa. Produk yang paling sering diiklankan adalah kosmetika, seperti "White Lotion", sabun, make up dan sebagainya. Semua iklan yang ada dalam dua majalah tersebut dikumpulkan dan digolongkan sesuai dengan kategori tertentu. Kategori ini berkaitan dengan penggambaran model perempuan yang digunakan untuk mengiklankan produk tersebut. Masing-masing kategori menunjukkan iklan dengan berbagai stereotip. Kategori ini adalah : "Citra Sex Symbol" Kategori ini termasuk semua iklan yang meggunakan model-model yang memakai pakaian ketat atau yang menampakkan tubuh yang terlarang. Ada banyak iklan dapat digolongkan dalam kategori ini. (Lihat tambahan A;1,2,3) "Citra Barat" Kategori ini termasuk semua iklan yang menggambarkan model yang digunakan bergaya 'Barat'. Sifat-sifat yang menjadi pertimbangan adalah warna kulit, gaya kosmetika dan rambut serta gaya pakaian yang digunakan. Sebagian besar, semua iklan dari majalah wanita tersebut dapat diletakkan dalam kategori ini. (Lihat tambahan B:1,2,3) "Pengunaan Model Negara Barat" Kategori ini termasuk semua iklan yang menggunakan model berasal dari negaranegara Barat. Seperti kategori "The Sexy Look", ada banyak iklan yang dapat digolongkan dalam kategori ini. (Lihat tambahan C:1,2,3) VI "Citra Tradisional" Kategori ini termasuk semua iklan yang menggambarkan model sebagai isteri atau ibu Indonesia. Sekali lagi, ada banyak iklan yang dapat digolongkan dalam kategori ini. (Lihat tambahan D:1,2,3) "Citra Modern" Kategori ini termasuk semua iklan yang meggunakan model dengan pakaian yang konserfatif, tetapi bergaya Barat. Ada sedikit iklan saja yang termasuk kategori ini. (Lihat tambahan E:1,2,3) Cosmopolitan, walaupun sudah dimodifikasi untuk pasar Indonesia, tetapi masih menunjukkan gaya Barat. Oleh karena itu, cerita dan artikel juga ditulis bergaya Barat. Kebanyakan produk yang diiklankan adalah kosmetik, minyak wangi, perhiasan dan pakaian wanita. Model iklan dari Cosmopolitan kebanyakan berasal dari negara Barat, dan sisanya dapat dikategorikan 'Sexy Look' dan 'Western Look'. Iklan dari Cosmopolitan, Kartini dan Femina memakai stereotip yang menurut saya berbahaya bagi perempuan Indonesia, baik secara psikologis maupun fisik. Misalnya: 1. Menggambarkan gaya yang tidak bisa dicapai perempuan Indonesia pada umumnya (misalnya skin whitening lotion) 2. Menggambarkan gaya yang tidak sesuai dengan kebudayaan perempuan Indonesia (Lihat tambahan C:3) 3. Belum menggambarkan perempuan Indonesia yang mandiii, pandai, tetapi hanya sebagai isteri dan ibu. Dari ketiga majalah itu, Kartini memiliki iklan yang paling dapat dipertanggungjawabkan. Hal ini karena tidak terlalu banyak dan ada bermacammacam stereotip yang digunakan. Ada banyak iklan Barat yang dimuat Cosmopolitan dan Femina, (sehingga majalahmajalah ini kurang bertanggung-jawab). Apalagi Femina karena dibuat khusus bagi pembaca perempuan Indonesia, sehingga majalah ini paling kurang bertanggung jawab. VII Persepsi Dari Perempuan Indonesia Hasil dari wawancara yang diajukan terhadap responden ternyata sangat menarik. Semua responden berumur 18-30, kebanyakan beragama Islam, sisanya beragama Katolik Roma dan Kristen. Kebanyakan responden suka menonton televisi, baik program Barat maupun Indonesia. Kebanyakan responden masih kuliah, tetapi ada sebagian yang sudah bekerja. Diantara responden, ada yang sering maupun yang jarang membaca majalah wanita. Responden dikumpulkan dalam tiga kelompok. Kelompok ini berdasarkan pada persepsi terhadap iklan yang diperlihatkan kepada mereka, serta jawaban terhadap pertanyaan. Kelompok ini adalah: "The Conservative Tradionalists" Kelompok ini adalah kelompok terbesar dari responden. Pandangan mereka konservatif dan tradisional. Kelompok ini percaya bahwa perempuan Indonesia yang ideal memiliki sifat seperti berikut: 1. Keibuan - mendidik dan membesarkan anak-anak 2. Menghormati suami dan orang yang lebih tua 3. Tidak meninggalkan kebudayaan Indonesia 4. Sopan, tertutup dalam berbusana dan ramah 5. Tidak menonjolkan diri sendiri Kelompok ini menilai iklan yang baik adalah menggambarkan perempuan sebagai isteri atau ibu dengan anaknya. Misalnya saja, model iklan Dancow dan Susu Bendera dipilih sebagai perempuan yang mereka inginkan terjadi pada dirinya. (tambahan D:2,3). Hal ini karena model ini sopan, konservatif dan mendidik anaknya. Model tersebut juga dipilih sebagai model yang paling mencerminkan perempuan Indonesia yang ideal. VIII "The Contemporary Philosphers " Kelompok ini berisi responden yang berpikir secara modern dan mandiri. Kelompok ini percaya bahwa perempuan Indonesia yang ideal punya sifat-sifat seperti berikut: 1. Pandai bergaul 2. Disiplin 3. Mandiri 4. Percayaan diri 5. Intelektuil/sanggup 6. Cangih Kelompok ini menilai iklan yang menggambarkan perempuan mandiri dan modern, seperti citra yang ditampilkan dalam iklan L'oreal dan Nature E (tambahan E:2,3). Responden dari kelompok ini percaya bahwa tidak ada model dari kumpulan iklan yang disodorkan, mencerminkan kondisi perempuan Indonesia yang ideal. Menurut .mereka, sifat perempuan ideal tidak tercerminkan dalam iklan sama sekali. Walaupun begitu, sebagian kecil dalam kelompok ini yang percaya model dari iklan L'oreal dan Nature E cukup mencerminkan perempuan Indonesia yang ideal, karena mereka kelihatan elegan, mandiri, dan pandai. Pada umumnya, kelompok ini mengatakan mereka lebih senang dengan citra seseorang dan tidak mau mirip seperti model iklan. Kelompok ini percaya kebudayaan Indonesia tidak hilang hanya karena perempuan Indonesia bekerja di luar rumah. IX "The Western Wannabees" Kelompok ini adalah kelompok yang paling kecil respondennya. Kelompok ini percaya perempuan Indonesia yang ideal memiliki sifat berikut: 1. Cantik 2. Kulit bersih/putih 3. Berbadan ideal 4. Lembut 5. Feminin/elegan Kelompok ini menilai iklan yang baik menggambarkan perempuan sebagai 'sex symbol' (tambahan A:1,2,3). Model dari iklan Mustika Ratu Slimming Tea dipilih sebagai sosok yang mereka inginkan, karena cantik, feminin dengan 'tubuh yang indah sekali.' Model tersebut juga dipilih sebagai model yang paling mencerminkan perempuan Indonesia yang ideal. Dari tiga kelompok ini, ada dua iklan yang tidak disukai. Iklan tersebut adalah Hermaviton (tambahan B:2) dan Icerberg Optics (tambahan C:3) Responden tidak menyukai dua iklan ini karena menurut mereka, terlalu mencolok, kurang sopan, berlebihan dan terlalu menarik perhatian. Mereka percaya iklan tersebut tidak sesuai dengan kebudayaan Indonesia. Kebanyakan responden mengatakan 'kalau ada uang yang tidak terbatas' mereka mau membeli produk kosmetik yang diiklankan di majalah wanita. Ini mengindikasikan walaupun ada iklan yang tidak disukai oleh perempuan Indonesia, namun iklan masih dapat menciptakan keinginan membeli (desire to purchase) bagi masyarakat. Semua responden dari tiga kelompok mengatakan gaya pakaian (Lihat tambahan A:3) tidak sesuai dengan kebudayaan perempuan Indonesia. Gaya pakaian dinilai telalu ketat dan terbuka. X BAB IV: PENUTUP Kesimpulan Kesimpulan dari penelitian ini adalah: 1. Perempuan Indonesia mempunyai beragam persepsi, kepercayaan dan pendapat, serta stereotip dan citra sendiri dalam model iklan. Mereka dipengaruhi oleh banyak faktor, seperti media massa, kebudayaan Indonesia, kebudayaan Barat dan sebagainya, sehingga dunia periklanan seharusnya mencerminkan perbedaan ini. 2. Walaupun demikian, ada kelompok yang menilai menggambarkan perempuan sebagai ibu dan iklan yang ideal isteri. Maksudnya, ada kelompok yang masih percaya dalam masyarakat yang patriarkhal, peran perempuan Indonesia menjadi ibu dan isteri. Jadi, iklan yang menggunakan citra demikian menguatkan posisi perempuan dalam masyarakat patriarkhal. 3. Secara signifikan, ada kelompok yang pemandangan iklan yang ada kurang mencerminkan perempuan Indonesia. Jarang sekali ada model yang bersifat profesional, mandiri, pandai atau memiliki intelektual tinggi. Industri periklanan dan media massa tidak dapat menangkap perubahan peran perempuan, sehingga seharusnya iklan tidak memakai stereotip yang kuno dan represif. 4. Berkaitan dengan iklan yang mempergunakan model negara Barat, tampaknya kurang tepat karena perempuan Indonesia tidak menilai citra ini. Bahkan dari responden menjelaskan iklan yang demikian merendahkan martabat perempuan Indonesia. Iklan yang memakai model dari negara Barat (tambahan C:1) tidak diinginkan, sehingga majalah Cosmopolitan dan Femina mesti melihat bahwa perempuan Indonesia lebih mau menerima citra lokal dibandingkan memiliki citra asing. XI 5. Kebanyakan responden memiliki keinginan untuk membeli bermacam-macam produk kosmetik yang diiklankan. Jadi, walaupun mungkin ada iklan yang tidak disukai, mereka masih mau membeli produk yang diiklankan (dengan asumsi keadaan keuangan tidak dipertimbangkan). Jadi, industri periklanan tidak harus merubah stereotip dan citra yang dipakai dalam periklanan. Rekomendasi Berdasarkan kesimpulan tersebut, beberapa rekomendasi yang dibuat sebagai berikut: 1. Majalah wanita Kartini, Femina dan Cosmopolitan oplahnya sangat besar. Oleh karena itu, majalah-majalah ini memiliki kekuasaan untuk mengatur iklan yang berada dalam majalahnya, misalnya memaksa biro iklan untuk memakai citra yang menampilkan keseimbangan. 2. Industri periklanan harus memakai 'market research' dalam menentukan iklan yang dipergunakan. Tanpa memandang citra perempuan yang mandiri, pandai atau intelek, akan menghilangkan hubungan dengan persepsi, percayaan dan citra diri perempuan Indonesia. 3. Organisasi "Media Watch" dan sebagainya, harus mengatur citra perempuan yang digunakan dalam periklanan. Mereka bisa membuat peraturan tertentu sehingga menjadi parameter dalam dunia periklanan. 4. "Wanita dan Media' adalah satu dari dua belas daerah kritikal dalam Menteri Pemberdayaan Perempuan. Tekanan yang lebih besar terhadap visualisasi perempuan dalam dunia periklanan mungkin dapat merubah keadaan (misalnya mendorong parameter yang lebih ketat untuk industri periklanan). XII Penutup Penelitian ini memperlihatkan ada stereotip yang digunakan dalam periklanan di majalah wanita. Stereotip ini menggambarkan perempuan dalam beberapa peran sesuai dengan kondisi masyarakat yang sangat terbatas. Ada beberapa citra perempuan Indonesia yang kurang bisa diterima, khususnya citra yang dianggap kurang menghormati kebudayaan Indonesia. Sementara itu, Industri periklanan sedangkan bekerja diantara dua parameter kebudayaan dan kebiasaan sosial, doing two things : 1. Melalui penampilan citra yang khusus, industri periklanan menguatkan kepercayaan umum tentang peran perempuan dalam masyarakat Indonesia, walaupun dapat dikatakan peran ini masih represif dan kuno. 2. Pada pihak lain, industri periklanan belum dapat mengakui perubahaan peran perempuan dalam masyarakat. Misalnya peran perempuan yang dinamis, baik dalam keluarga maupun diluar keluarga juga, sebagai sosok yang mampu memberi peran pada masyarakat secara ekonomi, politik dan sosial. Industri periklanan, seharusnya memberikan perubahan peran perempuan Indonesia, dari pada menggunakan citra yang respresif atau kuno. Peran represif ini tidak diterima oleh konsumen perempuan Indonesia. Sebagai tambahan, menurut saya, kalau citra yang progresif dan lebih seimbangan digunakan, ada manfaat ekonomi yang akan dicapai, karena ada banyak konsumen yang menerima citra seperti itu. XIII IMTRODUCTION AND BACKGROUND TO THE RESEARCH PROBLEM 2 OBJECTIVES OF THE RESEARCH METHODOLOGY Secondary Research Primary Research I IMITATIONS OF THE RESEARCH INSTRUMENTS OF THE RESEARCH primary analysis of data 11 perceptions of the sample is conclusions from the research 27 Recommendations 52_ conclusion bibliography 55 . 55 reference list appendix . . . 55 55 INTRODUCTION AND BACKGROUND TO THE RESEARCH PROBLEM Advertising is a collective term with many definitions. It can describe the act of promoting the sale of specific products or services, however advertising and promotion have a far broader scope than this definition allows. Advertising is a synthesis of pictures, voice and words which can be seen and heard, enjoyed as a form of entertainment, valued as a source of information, or appreciated as a form of art. For the purpose of this report, the following definition of advertising has been accepted: "Any paid form ofnon personal communication about an organisation, product, service or idea by an identified sponsor/' (Belch and Belch, 1998) Advertisements exist through integrated marketing communications, presented through a variety of mediums. With the ever-advancing scope of technology, mediums through which advertising firms can deliver their marketing messages are constantly increasing. Advertising mediums include, but are not exhausted by the following list: Newspapers Outdoor Advertising Magazines/journals Sponsorship Television Direct Radio management, Direct Response direct mail) Sales Promotion Interactive Business Publications auditext, interactive television) Advertising (database telemarketing, Media (Internet, In an increasingly competitive market, advertising firms must consistently develop creative and innovative methods of passing on one company's marketing message to a market that may be unresponsive or mildly disinterested. Advertising firms use persuasive language and images to promote products and services, persuade and influence their target market, create an impression or image, or directly to provide information as a form of communication. Advertising can be local, regional, national or international in scope. Perhaps the product or service being sold is domestically produced and distributed and therefore, marketing and promotion efforts are inwardly directed accordingly, however, many products and services are internationally distributed (for example Coca Cola and McDonalds). Hence marketing and promotion efforts must be differentiated in each country that a particular product or service is offered, taking into consideration that country's culture, history, language, social practices and so forth. Culture can be defined as: "Knowledge, beliefs, art, morals, customs and any other capabilities and habits acquired by individuals as members of society." (Neal et al, 2000) Culture plays an extremely important role in the success of any advertising campaign. If a country's culture is overlooked, poorly examined or understood, advertising messages can easily be misconstrued or misinterpreted, either through language used or visual stimulation. In a similar way, advertisements can also be responsible for moulding and changing culture. Many people underestimate the power of advertising, and the effect that mass media in general can have on society's perceptions of self and others, faith in what we are told be a truth and fallacy, as well as our attitudes and beliefs. There are numerous products in existence, primarily in the cosmetics, women's hygiene and women's clothing industries, which encompass large scale advertising campaigns, utilising a variety of mediums such as women's magazines, television, radio and many other mediums to convey their advertising message. This research will primarily focus on advertisements visible in women's magazines available in Indonesia (both domestically produced and regional editions of international magazines), and the way in which women are portrayed in these advertisements. Advertising, and how women are portrayed in magazine advertisements, can have an affect on women's perceptions and self-portrayal/image as well as others. These perceptions can in turn, be responsible for creating a change in behaviour. Advertisers use a variety of female stereotypes to communicate their marketing message, which can adversely affect women in a psychological or physiological manner. Images used in magazine advertisements can also be responsible for creating perceptions of the 'Ideal Woman", or in the case of this research, the "Ideal Indonesian Woman'. These images may be unrealistic, or not conducive to either Indonesian culture or current perceptions of appropriate appearance or behaviour. OBJECTIVES OF THE RESEARCH This research paper aims to do the following: 1) To analyse the advertising content of three women's magazines available in Indonesia, both domestically produced and regional editions of internationally marketed magazines, primarily; - Cosmopolitan (Indonesian Edition) - Femina - Kartini These magazines, appealing specifically to women, are targeted at young middle to upper class females. These magazines were chosen as they appeal to a particularly influential age group, capable of being inadvertently persuaded and influenced, not only to purchase the product or service, but also in regard to their perceptions, attitudes and behaviour. The analysis of these advertisements will primarily be focused on the visual portrayal of women. 2) To compare and analyse these advertisements in the aforementioned domestic and international women's magazines, in relation to their portrayal of women. International magazines such as Cosmopolitan, which are translated and specifically altered to meet the needs of the Indonesian market, can be a highly influential source of information regarding what is 'trendy' and acceptable. Stereotypes, images and 'ideals' used in advertisements, which market both local products a well as international brands, will be closely monitored. 3) To obtain an in-depth understanding of the general perception towards the portrayal of women in these magazines, as perceived by the target market (that is, young middle and upper class Indonesian females). METHODOLOGY To address the research objectives, both primary and secondary research was employed. The diagram below provides a basic summary of the research conducted. Research Methodology Primary Research Secondary Research Collection of advertisements in: Newspapers Online databases • Kartini Online Journals/articles • Femina • Cosmopolitan Academic literature Primary analysis of Analysis of secondary articles data In-depth interviews with female target (40 in total) Findings and conclusions Analysis of primary data Secondary Research For the purpose of this research, secondary research was utilised to obtain data for the specific purpose of addressing the research objectives. This included the collection and analysis of past research conducted, journal, newspaper, and magazine publications, as well as academic readings. This data was then analysed and employed accordingly. Primary Research The majority of research conducted for this paper embodied primary research, and included the following activities: 1. Collection and primary analysis of advertising material found in the following magazines: - Kartini - Femina - Cosmopolitan 2. Implementation of in-depth interviews with the target market of the three magazines being investigated. The objective of these interviews was to obtain an in-depth understanding of the general perception from the female segment of the Indonesian population regarding the stereotypes and images used in the advertisements presented. 3. All data collected was analysed for the purpose of drawing conclusions and making recommendations. LIMITATIONS OF THE RESEARCH As with any primary research conducted, there are certain limitations involved. The limitations associated with this project are detailed below. • Sampling was only conducted in the Malang metropolitan area, however inferences are being made regarding the total Indonesian population without considering the regional and metropolitan areas in other parts of the country. Hence, analysis and findings should be addressed with caution. • Interviews were conducted with those individuals living within the city. No interviews were conducted with individuals living outside the city (that is, from the desa {village}), therefore, analysis completed and conclusions drawn can only reflect perceptions of city dwellers. • Language barriers: Although limited at this stage of my education, language barriers may lead to a misunderstanding, misinterpretation, or loss of accuracy. This barrier was minimised through recording, and later transcribing interviews. • Cultural Barriers: Due to cultural differences, the respondents interviewed during the research may not have been as open in their responses, had the interviews been administered by an Indonesian person. Because of this barrier, responses may have been guarded, and hence not entirely accurate. • General gathering of information (circulation figures, basic company information, simple facts and figures) was made difficult due to the bureaucratic nature of certain organisation's information retrieval practices. INSTRUMENTS OF THE RESEARCH The instruments of the research were the advertisements evident in three women's magazines available in Indonesia: - Kartini - Femina - Cosmopolitan (Indonesian Edition) Magazine advertisements have many advantages over other advertising mediums, which include: • The highly segmented nature of magazines (in this case, a market defined by age, class and sex) • Quality of advertisement production • Multiple readers (it is commonly regarded that women's magazines in particular are not only read by the purchaser, but also handed around quite extensively among friends and family). • Longevity (magazines are usually stored rather than thrown away such as a newspaper would be directly after being read). These magazines were chosen due to their high circulation figures and relative success and reputation in Indonesia as quality women's magazines. They are mainstream magazines and thus appeal to a very widespread market. Advertisements using women as instruments to market a product or service were analysed primarily, then used as the focal point in in-depth discussions with women believed to be a part of the target market of the aforementioned women's magazines. These advertisements were also the focus of in-depth interviews implemented with creative teams from advertising agencies in Surabaya. The following is a brief description of the three aforementioned magazines: Kartini Kartini, which borrows its name from the prominent feminist historical figure, was first established in 1986, It is a mainstream Indonesian women's magazine produced and published in Jakarta. Kartini targets young Indonesian females, who are in the middle to upper class segments, the well educated, as well as career women. Kartini is available in bi-weekly and weekly editions, and addresses issues such as: Current women's issues Current world issues Health Feature articles (concerning women's achievements/narratives etc) Fashion Beauty Cooking Unfortunately, circulations figures are unable to be obtained. In a relatively unregulated market, Indonesian circulation figures are not independently audited (Far Eastern Economic Review, 1999), and can only be obtained directly from each publication. Although Kartini was contacted several times, this information was not forthcoming. Femina Femina, also produced and published in Jakarta, is the first women's magazine to effectively cater to a special segment of women readers (Media Scene 2000). Femina is aimed at the upper and middle class segments, as it promotes a lifestyle of grace and style which is attractive to the independent career woman, the affluent housewife, the well educated, and metropolitan women who are attuned to a modern lifestyle. New editions of Femina are available weekly. Femina addresses issues such as the following: 10 Current women's issues Romance Fashion Beauty Cooking Fiction Hollywood gossip/news Circulation figures were able to be obtained from a special report produced by Media Watch. The circulation figures are as follows: MEDIA PENETRATION TOTAL LEADING MAGAZINES Jakarta, Bandung, Semerang, Surabaya, Medan, Makasar 1995 FEMINA 1996 ,000 % ,000 753 5.8 917 1997 % ,000 1998 % ,000 1999 % ,000 6.8 752 5.5 608 4.3 490 Source:AC Nielson Media % 3.7 Index, cited in Media scene 2000 Cosmopolitan Cosmopolitan, produced by Hearst Magazines International, first entered the Indonesian market in 1997. Cosmopolitan is the first Indonesian edition of a renowned international magazine. It caters to young career oriented women who are open to international news and opinions on lifestyle, fashion and sex. Once aain.Cosmopolitan addresses much the same issues as in Kartini and Femina, however articles provide a more western scope, as do advertisements. Circulation figures were unable to be obtained. 11 PRIMARY ANALYSIS OF DATA Kartini and Femina Although differing slightly in content and interest, Kartini and Femina appeal to much the same audience. These magazines address similar issues, however current affairs (world news/politics/environment etc) are more heavily referred to in Kartini than Femina, whereas Femina sporadically features articles concerning romance and relationships. The advertisements displayed in these two magazines were very similar in the products and services being marketed, and, as would be expected, they overlapped quite frequently. Products most prominently and frequently advertised in these magazines were cosmetic products such as skin whitening creams, make up, soap and so forth. Although a small number of advertisements promoting women's clothing and accessories could be found, other products being advertised were only incidental. By far the majority of advertising space was concerned with cosmetic products and services. By collecting and compartmentalising all advertisements found in Femina and Kartini during the month of September/October, all advertisements were categorised according to the stereotypes and images used in the portrayal of female models. The categories that were created are as follows: 1. The Sex Symbol 2. The Western Look 3. Western (Anglo-Saxon) Models 4. The Traditional Look 5. The Conservative but Modern Look 6. Miscellaneous 12 1. The Sex Symbol This category was determined by the extent to which clothing worn by the model was either tight or revealing. This type of advertisement featured quite substantially. These advertisements featured models wearing clothing that I, as an observer of Indonesian culture, would find totally unacceptable for an Indonesian women to wear, and hence, was quite surprised to find the relatively high frequency with which they appeared. (See appendices A: 1,2,3) 2. The Western Look This category was determined by the overall appearance of the model used in the advertisement. In deciding whether a model possesses western characteristics, features taken into consideration included the model's skin colour, style of hair and cosmetics, style of clothing worn, as well as the overall tone of the advertisement. Some examples include all skin whitening cream advertisements, which market extremely pale and western looking models, cosmetic products, as well as most hair care advertisements, some even using Indonesian models with red hair (see appendices B: 1,2,3). 3. Western (Anglo-Saxon) Models This category encompassed advertisements using models of Anglo-Saxon descent to market a product or service. Along with the previous categories, these advertisements were also rather frequent (See appendices C:1,2,3). 13 4. The Traditional Look This category encompassed advertisements using models which portrayed the traditional Indonesian housewife/mother. Clothing and style of cosmetics worn were inconsequential, models were either wearing traditional costume, or conservative but modern clothing. The significant factor in this category was the connotation of the model as the doting mother and wife. A significant proportion of advertisements used these images. (See appendices D:1,2,3) 5. The Conservative but Modern Look This category encompassed models wearing conservative clothing (that would be deemed acceptable by conventional Indonesian standards), however the style of clothing worn was still western in its appeal. This type of advertisement appeared only rarely (See appendices E: 1,2,3) 6. Miscellaneous Of course, the five aforementioned categories cannot envelop the portrayal of models found in all advertisements evident in Kartini and Femina. They do however, account for approximately 90% of all advertisements. Two advertisements placed in this category worth noting however, is one showing an Indonesian woman with a bigger than average build (see appendix F:1) as well as one advertisement showing a model as fit and healthy - a regular exerciser (see appendix F:2). These two advertisements could only be found once during an entire month of both Femina and Kartini Editions. 14 Cosmopolitan Cosmopolitan, being a 'western'1 style magazine, has been modified and customized for the Indonesian marketplace. This magazine has a very similar target market as Kartini and Femina, however the content is quite different. As expected, it has a more western, or international scope, and hence, stories, features and articles are more concerned with Western culture. For example, 'sex' as a topic is addressed quite heavily in Cosmopolitan, although barely mentioned in both Femina and Kartini. Products advertised in the Indonesian edition of Cosmopolitan are still heavily skewed towards cosmetic products, however perfume, accessories/jewellery and women's clothing are also frequently advertised. The overall frequency with which advertisements appear is a great deal higher than the domestically produced magazines. This is due to the related success of the magazine, hence advertising space, although very expensive, is highly sought after. In considering the Indonesian edition of Cosmopolitan, approximately 85% of all advertisements found featured models of western appearance, with the remainder featuring models of 'Asian' appearance, though not necessarily of Indonesian origin. It is important to note that all advertisements featuring Asian models would be placed in the "Sex Symbol" or the "Western Look" categories previously created, and did not fit the mould of the other categories. It is clear that the international marketing efforts of Cosmopolitan are somewhat lacking. By the overwhelming proportion of advertisements using models of Anglo-Saxon appearance, it is evident that marketing efforts have not been differentiated for the Indonesian market, failing to take into consideration Indonesia's culture history, language, social practices and so forth. Only a small and limited effort to do so has been made. 1Although much has been written concerning 'western' culture', for the purpose ofthis report, the 'west' refers to culture which the Indonesian population has been exposed to through mass media, such as American television programs, films, magazines and the internet. 15 The advertisements found in Kartini, Femina and Cosmopolitan portray women using a selection of stereotypes and images which made the task of categorising the advertisements unproblematic. These stereotypes can be psychologically or physically harmful to women, as they are capable of portraying women of all ages in an unacceptable manner, such as: • Portraying women in a way that is physically unachievable for the majority of the market, for example extremely pale skin. (See appendix B;3) or frequent use of western models. • Portraying women in a way which concretes their subordinate position in society, i.e. as housewife and mother. (See appendix D:1) • Portraying women in a way which is not streamlined with Indonesian culture, and hence may be insulting or confusing. (See appendix C:3) The stereotypes used were very limited in their scope, not once could an advertisement be found which portrayed the model as a career women, or as an independent woman of strength of character/opinion etc. Through the use of these stereotypes, (which are extremely limited in any case), Indonesian women's self images are prescribed and constructed, all in the name of selling a particular product or service. It is my opinion that these stereotypes are extremely manipulative, particularly to a narrowly defined market such as the market for women's magazines. If the advertisements from the magazines were to be compared - domestically produced versus the modified Cosmopolitan, it is in my opinion that Kartini and Femina use more responsible advertising. This conclusion results from the higher frequency of advertisements which use Asian models to market products or services, rather than the overwhelming majority of western models found in Cosmopolitan. Although the advertisements in Kartini and Femina use stereotypical images, such as those criticised above, at least a restricted variety of stereotypes are used, rather than just the 'sexy' or 'western' look, as typified in advertisements found in Cosmopolitan. 16 In essence, this finding correlates with earlier expectations. Cosmopolitan essentially has a western outlook, and is ruled by western thinking as to what is and is not acceptable content (for example explicit sex articles). Although Cosmopolitan has been modified for the Indonesian market, it fails to take into consideration broad cultural attitudes - the looks and styles put forward by the advertisements may be desirable, however they are totally unachievable to the average Indonesian woman. 17 PERCEPTIONS OF THE SAMPLE For the purpose of this research, 40 in-depth interviews lasting up to half an hour each were conducted. Aware of the target market for Kartini, Femina and Cosmopolitan, females appearing to be between the ages of 18 - 30 were approached. As one of the objectives of this research was to investigate the perceptions of Indonesian women towards the advertisements, and hence make conclusions about these perceptions, it was irrelevant whether a respondent actually had ever read, or regularly read any one of the aforementioned women's magazines. The interviews were conducted one-on-one so as to ensure independent responses were obtained, with the aid of a showcase of example advertisements collected from Cosmopolitan, Kartini and Femina. The exhibit included three advertisements from each category (the five stereotypes used) discussed in the previous section. Respondents were free to peruse the advertisements (17 in all) as they were interviewed. The interviews were kept as non-structured as possible to create a casual environment, with the result being that the most honest and open answers were obtained. The following questions encompass the guide questions used during the in-depth interviews. Generally, most questions were multi tiered, and totally dependent on the interviewee's response, hence the following list is not able to totally encompass aN questions raised. (For a full understanding of the in-depth interviews conducted, please read the illustrative interview transcript in appendix G) 1. Apakah Anda sudah pernah membaca majalah Kosmopolitan, Femina atau Kartini? 2. Berapa kali sebulan Anda membaca majalah wanita? Sering/Jarang/Kadang-kadang? 3. Apakah Anda suka menonton televisi atau menonton film di bioskop? 4. Biasanya, apa program televisi yang paling disukai? Program/film Indonesia atau Barat? 5. Berapa umur Anda? 6. Apa agama Anda? 7. Apakah Anda masih kuliah atau sudah bekerja? 8. Menurut Anda, perempuan Indonesia yang 'ideal' punya sifat seperti apa? 9. Bagaimana tentang iklan dan model yang disukai dan tidak disukai? Jelaskan alasan Anda. 10. Menurut Anda, model yang mana paling mencerminkan perempuan Indonesia? Jelaskan alasan Anda. 11. Bagaimana gaya pakaian yang sesuai untuk perempuan Indonesia? (shown appendices A:1,2,3) Jelaskan alasan Anda. 12. Bayangkan jika Anda mirip model dari iklan ini, Anda ingin seperti model yang mana? Jelaskan alasan Anda. 13. Bayangkan jika memiliki uang yang sangat banyak (tak terbatas), produk apa saja yang ingin Anda beli, produk kosmetik yang ada sini atau tidak? Kenapa? Please see Appendix I for an English translation of these questions. 19 Questions one to seven were solicited in order to establish a foundation for respondent's perceptions to the advertisements. It was considered essential to establish not only respondent's perceptions, however also to explore the motivation and basis for these perceptions, that is: Is advertising totally responsible, or are there other factors such as religion, independence levels or exposure to western culture for example, which contribute to the formation of these perceptions? Questions eight to twelve were presented in order to ascertain the perceptions of the respondents towards the advertisements shown, and how responsible the advertisements are in influencing audiences in their attitudes, beliefs and self- image. The final question was asked in order to establish the extent to which the advertisements were able to create desire to purchase among the target audience. The interviews yielded some interesting and diverse responses. Throughout the 40 in-depth interviews, there were a large variety of responses. Interviews were conducted until not only had a range of opinions been obtained, but also until there was a clear pattern of responses which could then be used to draw conclusions regarding the perceptions of this target market. NB: The following section outlines the general responses acquired from the 40 interviews conducted. Naturally, with 40 respondents, there was a large range of answers, all of which can not possibly be documented. However, a concerted effort has been made to encompass the most frequent and commonly held opinions. Clear interview-by-interview results have been cataloged in appendix H. 20 The sample of respondents was diverse in their backgrounds as well as their opinions and attitudes. The majority of respondents were Muslim, although a small proportion held either Christian or Catholic beliefs. The sample of respondents were split equally as to whether they were students or in the workforce. Readership of women's magazines (primarily Kartini, Femina and Cosmopolitan) was also varied. Some respondents were avid readers and purchased copies of these magazines whenever a new edition was released, however, there were also those who would only purchase occasionally, or only read the magazine if there was a copy lying around. It was evident that the vast majority of the sample enjoyed watching television, by far the most popular program among the group was 'Sinetron', a popular Indonesian drama. It was clear that western television programs were enjoyed by most, although not avidly watched, as regularity was scarce among the group. Excursions to the cinema were generally infrequent among the sample of respondents, most preferring to watch television at home. Analysis of the total data obtained from the in-depth interviews indicates that there is no significant relationship between the respondent's background, and their perceptions toward advertisements shown and subsequent questions asked. Therefore, respondents were treated as a whole sample, and later segmentation was made based on factors other than the respondent's background. As the result of thorough analysis of data collected from these in-depth interviews, respondents were grouped into three different clusters. These clusters held similar beliefs and perceptions towards the advertisements, as well as other relevant questions solicited. Within these clusters, there was a clear correlation between what respondents felt were attributes of the ideal Indonesia woman, and which advertisements appealed to them (and vice versa, which did not appeal to them). The results are as follows: 21 Cluster One - The Conservative Traditionalists This group represented a large proportion of the entire sample. They were the most conservative and traditional of all respondents. This group deemed the following qualities as evident in the ideal Indonesian woman: • Keibuan - mendidik dan • membesarkan anak-anak • Menghormati suami dan orang- education of ones children • orang yang lebih tua • Maternal/motherly, involved in the Respectful of ones husband as well as the elderly Tidak meninggalkan kebudayaan • Intact with Indonesian culture Indonesia • Neat/polite and friendly • Sopan/rapih/ramah • Dos not draw attention to ones • Tidak telalu memperhatikan diri self Not surprisingly, this group overwhelmingly identified or 'liked' the advertisements which used images of a mother with her child (see appendices D:2,3) These advertisements were valued as they showed a close relationship between child and mother, and it was also clear that the mother in the advertisement was pursuing an active role in bringing up and educating her child. The two women from the Dancow and Susu Bendera advertisements (see appendix D:2,3) were the models of choice when asked which model the respondents would most wish to resemble, as they were conservative, neat and tidy, and interacting with their child. As expected, this group considered the two models in the previously discussed advertisements as those best resembling the ideal Indonesian woman, due to the characteristics outlined above. A small but significant segment of this group also identified with Biolsyn advertisement (appendix D;1). The model in this advertisement was valued, and deemed the ideal Indonesian woman by this segment, as it was clear that she was in tune with her heritage and Indonesian culture, as she wears a Kebaya, as well as being an integral part of the family unit. It can be said that the respondents in this sub-segment were the most traditional and conservative of all respondents. 22 Cluster Two - The Contemporary Philosophers This group were the most forward thinking of all respondents, also representing a large and significant number of respondents from the sample. The qualities they cited as evident in the ideal Indonesian woman were: • Bisa bergaul Socially capable • Disiplin diri Self disciplined/independent • Mandiri Belief in ones self/capabilities • Percayaan diri Capable/intellectual • Intelektual/sanggup, Elegant and sophisticated • Mau kareer Career oriented This group tended to associate with the images used in the Nature E advertisement, as well as the Loreal advertisement (appendices E:2,3), as the models used were elegant and modern. When asked which model best portrayed the ideal Indonesian woman, many of these respondents felt that there were none which adequately portrayed the ideal Indonesian woman. The remainder indicated that the models from the Nature E and particularly the Loreal advertisement adequately portrayed the ideal Indonesian women, as they appeared independent, modern and intelligent (that is, not just a pretty face). This group also stated quite clearly that they were happy with the way they looked, and they did not wish to resemble any of the models shown to them. This group was still concerned with keeping Indonesian or 'eastern culture' intact, but this did not mean staying at home as wife and mother. These respondents felt that it was possible to maintain their Indonesian identity while still being progressive. 23 Cluster Three- The Western Wannabe's This group, small but noteworthy, were concerned with aesthetic qualities of the ideal Indonesian woman such as: Cantik Pretty Kulit bersih/putih Refined and clean skin Badan bagus Good body Halus Refined in behaviour Feminin/elegan Feminine and elegan This group identified with images which portrayed women as sex symbols, as is evident in appendix A:1,2,3. The model from the Mustika Ratu Slimming Tea advertisement was most enthusiastically chosen as the favorite model, as she was cantik, elegan dan tubuhnya bagus sekali, (pretty, elegant and has a beautiful body). Not surprisingly, this group also chose this same model as the woman which most adequately represented the ideal Indonesian woman. It was plainly and purely due to her 'astounding' beauty and poise that she was chosen as the ideal Indonesian woman, as well as the model that they most wished to resemble. 24 From all three clusters, there were two advertisements which were unanimously disliked, these being: • Hermaviton Action (appendix B;2) • Iceberg Optics featuring Pamela Anderson (appendix C;3) The Iceberg advertisement was disliked due to its obvious exploitation of the female body. Respondents believed that not only did the advertisement focus purely on her breasts, but also that it was unclear what product the advertisement was actually promoting. The advertisement was also deemed telalu terbuka (too explicit), kurang sopan (impolite,) and totally inconsiderate of eastern culture. The Hermaviton advertisement was also unanimously disliked, as it was regarded that the models in this advertisment were telalu mencolok/terbuka, kurang sopan, berfebihan (excessive), and telalu menarik perhatian (drawing to much attention to themselves) Respondents felt that this advertisement was conducive to Western culture, and not at all appropriate for an Indonesian market. Furthermore, the majority of respondents indicated that (money issues aside) they would by all/some of the cosmetics/women's products advertised in the showcase of advertisements. Although a small number identified that they would prefer to spend their money on more important products, the vast majority of respondents agreed that they would purchase these products. This signifies that (images and stereotypes used aside), these advertisements are still able to create a desire to purchase among the target market, even though there are some that may are not well received. 25 Once more, the three clusters answered unanimously in regards to the question: 7s this style of clothing (indicate three advertisements from 'Sex Symbol' section) appropriate for the average Indonesian woman?" Although it was unanimously decide that No, that style of clothing wasn't appropriate for the average Indonesian women, the three clusters differed slightly in their responses. • The Conservative Traditionalists were clear that it was totally unacceptable clothing, as the clothing worn were western in style, not eastern, and they drew too much attention to the individual wearing them. • The Contemporary Philosophers felt that the clothing in question was unacceptable due to Indonesia culture and social norms, however they also felt that it was up to the individual if they wished to wear such clothing. The Western Wannabe's felt that although the average Indonesian woman should not really wear such clothing, it would be appropriate for an actress or model, or, if an individual were going to an event which warranted such clothing (a party for example). 26 CONCLUSIONS FROM THE RESEARCH The responses accumulated from the in-depth interviews lead to a number of conclusions. These results provide an insight into the state of the Indonesian advertising industry, as well as women's perceptions of their role and position in Indonesian society. The sheer variation of responses from the 40 in-depth interviews conducted, indicate that the 'Indonesian young female' market place is in a state of transition, juxtaposing conservative views against those which are undoubtedly western in scope. This state is permanent and dynamic, culture is not stagnant. Women are constantly being influenced by a variety of factors- mass media, culture, social practices and norms, and the influence and encroachment of western culture on Indonesian society. Hence, women's behavior, attitudes, beliefs, and perceptions gradually adapt to mould with this ongoing change. Therefore, the stereotypes found in the advertisements are unsuitable for the market. A market which is changing and responding to the environment around them needs dynamic images to relate to - modern, forward thinking images, not just stereotyped images of the 'sex symbol' or the traditional mother and wife. Although the market is varied, the previous section in this report indicates that there is a large proportion of women in the sample who associate with the conservative images of woman as mother and wife (The Conservative Traditionalists). This concedes that a significant proportion of Indonesian women still believe in Indonesia as a strong patriarchal society, and are somewhat content with their place in the home as mother and wife. This role as mother and wife is furthermore cemented by the roles decreed by government, as is evident in the Panca Dharma Wanita (five roles for women): 1. Wanita sebagai pendamping suami yang setia 2. Wanita sebagai penurus keturunan bangsa 3. Wabita sebagai pendidik dan pembimbing anak 4. Wanita sebagai pengatur rumah tangga 5. Wanita sebagai anggota masyarakatyang berguna 27 1. Woman as loyal companion of her husband 2. Woman as continuer of the national decendency 3. Woman as educator and guider of children 4. Woman as the organiser of the household 5. Woman as useful member of society. Dharma Wanita's influence is far reaching to all corners of society, and these roles are very clear that there is no economic or political role for women in society, their roles are limited to capabilities within the household and very clearly defined. These roles are reinforced through the images used in advertisements found in Kartini, Femina and Cosmopolitan. Therefore, it can be said that advertising (more specifically, advertisements in women's magazines) is instrumental in reinforcing women's submissive place in Indonesians strong patriarchal society. "Masyarakat Jawa pada umumnya masih menilai tinggi bahwa wanita setelah menikah sebaiknya tinggal di rumah, mengurus rumah tangga, dan mendidik anak-anak, karena hal tersebut merupakan suatu kodrat bagi wanita yaitu menikah, melahirkan, dan merawat anak-anak" (Mulyanto, Santoso, 1986) "In general, Javanese society still values that women should, after they marry, stay in the home, organize the household and educate the children. This is only one of women's responsibilities, which are marrying, giving birth and looking after children". Considering the date of this reference, this quote may seem somewhat obsolete, however, when it is considered that the Dharma Wanita roles for women were decreed in 1974, and have not been adapted since to represent the changing role of women, it is quite appropriate that it is used here to describe the role of women as decreed by Indonesian society - it is stagnant, outdated and superseded, parallel with the images used in advertising. 28 Juxtaposed with this picture are The Contemporary Philosophers, whose views were poorly represented in the advertisements in Kartini, Femina and Cosmopolitan, even though they represented a significant proportion of the sample. The qualities they cited as evident in the ideal Indonesian woman are all but absent in advertisements evident in these women's magazines. Qualities such as professionalism, intelligence, capability and independence were rarely, if ever, evident in any of the advertisements, even though these are the exact qualities that this target audience acknowledges to admiring in an Indonesian woman. The independent and intelligent responses from this group indicate a growing number of women who feel that their capabilities are warranted outside the home, as an independent career woman with a more prominent economic role in society. Western culture, global awareness, and the general changing role of women all around the world influence this dynamic role. The advertising industry, and possibly mass media in general, fails to recognise that the role of women in Indonesian society is not stagnant, and can not be forever portrayed using images which are outdated and repressive. There are Indonesian woman seeking independence and self-confidence. This lack of images showing women as independent career women with capabilities outside the home as well as within, once again indicates that women are still subversive in the patriarchal mass media system, and Indonesia at large. The use of images such as sex symbol or mother and wife, serve to cement women's subversive positioning in this patriarchal society. The advertising industry should be embracing this liberation rather than serving to impede it, by using pioneering and innovative images, rather than those of days gone by. Not only would this be supporting the changing role of women, but it is also economically viable, as a significant subgroup of their target market have indicated that they would indeed, respond to such images. Importantly, there are two more conclusions that have been made as a result of research conducted, these being: 29 1. The majority of advertisements found in Cosmopolitan used western models. Through the in-depth interviews conducted, it is clear that the target market is not receiving these images well. Out of the three advertisements using western models which were shown to respondents during interviews, two were disliked (see appendices C:2, C;3). In fact, a significant number of respondents stated that they were offended by the Iceberg Optic advertisement. The third advertisement featuring a western model (appendix C;1) was not mentioned at all throughout the entire interview process - it was neither liked not disliked, merely disregarded. This indicates that the sample did not respond well to these types of models/images being used, however, it is these types of images to which they are being most highly exposed. The magazines in question need to recognise that their readers are more perceptive to local images (that is, use of Asian/Indonesian models). 2. The advertising that women are exposed to while reading women's magazines, is influencial. This is made evident by the respondents desire to purchase cosmetics and women's products as advertised in these magazines if they had the money. Consequently, cosmetic companies and the advertising firms that represent them are meeting their sales objectives whilst simultaneously and adversely influencing their target market with inappropriate images. It can be said that while creating insecurities through the use of unachievable images, such as skin tones evident in some 'skin whitening lotion' advertisements, (appendix B;3) cosmetic companies and the like are actually creating their market. Hence, although there were a significant number of respondents who were dissatisfied in one way or another with the advertisements being shown to them, this dissatisfaction is not strong enough to prevent them from purchasing the product, had they the economic means to do so. 30 This inference is important, as it means that although the target market may be dissatisfied with the images they are being exposed to, the advertising industry has no motivation to change the images being used, as they are still able to create desire to purchase among their target market. What this indicates, is that if there is to be a change in the images and stereotypes being used in advertising, this change is not going to be the result of an independent decision from the advertising industry. 31 RECOMMENDATIONS Throughout the implementation of this research, the focus of this research brought to light many issues. This research is purely focused upon Indonesian women's perceptions of advertisements found in women's magazines, however, what has been made apparent as a result of this research, is that further research in this same field would be beneficial to all parties concerned. It is with this in mind that the following recommendations are made. 1. Women's magazines themselves (Kartini, Cosmopolitan and Femina) hold the power to regulate the advertisements being shown in their magazines. Considering the success of these magazines, and their narrowly defined target market, it is plausible that they could force advertising agencies to use more balanced images, by rejecting those that fail to comply with their regulations. However, considering that a large proportion of revenue comes from advertising dollars, it is unlikely that this recommendation would be implemented, as it can be assumed that advertising dollars are considered more important than the use of appropriate images. 2. The advertising industry needs to incorporate more advanced market research into their integrated marketing communications. Market research is an integral part of any marketing or advertising campaign, and it is believed that a thorough understanding of the market they are dealing with would improve the effectiveness of their advertising communications. Although it is clear that the aforementioned advertisements are effective in creating desire, a more thoroughly defined and understood target market would lead to greater effectiveness, and, a more balanced and appropriate showcase of visual images. The absence of modern images in advertisements indicates that the advertising industry is out of touch with the young Indonesian female marketplace. 32 3. There are three media regulatory bodies in Indonesia, these being: • Media Watch • YLKI: Yayasan Lembaga Konsumen Indonesia, and • LBH: Lembaga Bantuan Hukum (SSyah, 2001, page 143) These organisations are responsible for monitoring the advertising industry and mass media at large. The efficiency and effectiveness of these bodies should be kept in check, as it is these bodies that can bring about change. These media watch bodies need to ensure that appropriate images are being used in advertising, and mass media in general. Their authority to regulate the advertising industry should be properly used to ensure that exploitative and unbalanced images are not being used, or kept to a minimum. 4. According to the State Minister for Women's Empowerment and Family Planning Board, 'Women and the Media* is one of the 12 critical areas needing addressing (www.ri.qo.id). Greater emphasis on the portrayal of women in advertising as a component of this critical area could prove effective in creating change, (for example, lobby for greater regulation and parameters within the advertising industry). The following flow chart is an interpretation of data concerning where these changes can be implemented. As is clear from the flow chart, changes must come from outside the direct realm of advertising, as there are too many different bodies with their own objectives to attend to, to make the change themselves. The change must come from independent bodies such as media watch regulatory bodies and the government itself. 33 Manufacturers: aiming to create desire for their product by creating insecurities among the market through specified images used in advertisements Effects: Independent auditory "Watch Dog" responsible for the use of visual images used to portray women in advertisements, as well as Advertising agencies responsible for the creation of such images, contracted by manufacturers of women's products effects: government ministries, namely State Minister for Women's Empowerment and Family Planning Board. This is the only stage that can really make the change, each other stage has its own initiative and objectives which can't be compromised. Actual advertisements using objectionable visual portrayal of women effects: Holds enough power to make a change, but may interfere with strategic objectives (i.e revenue) Women's magazines as mediums for advertisements (Cosmopolitan, Kartini and Femina) effects: Women as readers and viewers of advertisements; victims of harmful images 34 CONCLUSION This report has shown that there are a variety of different stereotypes used in advertisements found in women's magazines in Indonesia. These stereotypes are limited, and tend to pigeonhole Indonesian women into restrictive roles in society. Through in-depth interviews conducted, it is also clear that many of the images are not being well received by the target market, particularly those images which fail to respect the conservatism of Indonesian culture. The Indonesian advertising industry, while working within the confines of culture and social norms, is doing two things: 1. Through the use of particular images, it is reinforcing popularly held beliefs about the role of women in society, even though it can be said that these roles are repressive and outdated. 2. One the other hand, the advertising industry fails to recognise the dynamic nature of women's changing role in society, one that sees them as an integral part of the family unit as well as outside the home. Mass media largely contributes to the shaping of attitudes and behaviour which determines the status of women in society. This distorted portrayal of women protects and nurtures this imbalance in society (Ibrahim, Suranto 1998, pg 143). Of course, mass media can not be held totally responsible for the subordinated position of women in society, however it does play a large role. Attitudes and behaviour are largely shaped by culture in a social, political and economic structure. The Indonesian advertising industry, rather than using outdated or repressive images which are not necessarily being well received by the population, should be embracing this changing role of women. In addition, it would be economically viable and in my opinion economically beneficial to use more progressive and evolutionary images, as there is obviously an untapped market willing to embrace these images. 35 BIBLIOGRAPHY Books 1. Belch G.E, Belch M.A, "Advertising and Promotion: An integrated Marketing Communications Perspective" Fourth Edition, Irwin/McGraw Hill, U.S.A, 1998. 2. Kotler, P., Armstrong, G., Brown, L., Adam, S, "Marketing", Fourth Edition, Prentice Hall, Australia, 1998 3. Neal, Quester, Hawkins, "Consumer Behavior Implications for Marketing Strategy", Second Edition, McGraw Hill, Australia, 2000. 4. Sen K, Hill D.T, "Media, Culture and Politics in Indonesia", Oxford University Press, Victoria, Australia, 2000. 5. Soedarsono R.M, Murniato G, "Nilai Anak dan Wanita Dalam Masyarakat Jawa", Departemen Pendidikan dan Kebudayaan Direktorat Jenderal Kebudayaan, Proyek Penelitian dan Pengkajian, Kebudayaan Nusantra, Bagian Jawa, 1986. 6. Syah S, "Menuju Pers Demokratis" Lembaga Studi Dan Innovasi Pendidikan, Jogya2001. 36 37 Journals/Magazine Publications 1. Anon, "Fastest Gun in the East", Far Eastern Economic Review, 25 March, 1999, sited at [email protected] 2. Anon, Magazines in Indonesia Quantitative Review, Media Scene 2000. 3. Cosmopolitan Oktober 2001 4. Femina No 39/XXIX, 27 September - 3 Oktober, 2001 5. Femina No.40/XXIX, 4-10 Oktober, 2001 6. Femina No 41/XXIX, 11-17 Oktober, 2001 7. Kartini Nomor 2044, 13 S/D 27 September 2001 8. Kartini Nomor 2045, 27 September S/D 11 Oktober, 2001 9. Kartini Nomor 2046, 11S/D Oktober, 2001 Internet www.cosmopolitan.co.id www.femina-online.com www.kartinionline.com www.ri.qo.id 37 REFERENCE LIST The following four reference pieces focuses mainly on analysing the actual advertisement content of women's magazines, rather than on the perceptions of those individuals who read them. Although well written and comprising interesting content they had no direct influence on this research paper. Books 1. Anon, "Media Massa dan Wanita", Kumpulan Makaah. Seminar Nasional Media Massa dan Wanita, Bogor, November, Universitas Indonesia, 1992. 2. Subandy Ibrahim, Suranto H, "Wanita dan Media: Konstruksi Ideologi Gender Dalam Ruang Publik Orde Baru", 1998 Journal/Article Publications 1. Gustafston, R, popovich, M, Thomsen, S. "Subtle Ad Images Threaten Girls More" Marketing News, 35(12): 12-13. 2001, Jun 4. 2. Moeriyati, S "Visualisasi Wanita Dalam Iklan Di Majalah Wanita Dan Majalah Pria", Jurnal Penelitian Media Massa. Vol 3 No 6 2000. 38 APPENDIX Appendix A (1) "The Sex Symbol" Category A (2) "The Sex Symbol" Category A (3) "The Sex Symbol" Category Appendix B (1) "The Western Look" Category B (2) "The Western Look" Category B (3) "The Western Look" Category Appendix C (1) "Anglo-Saxon Models" Category C (2) "Anglo-Saxon Models" Category C (3) "Anglo-Saxon Models" Category Appendix D (1) "The Traditional Look" Category D (2) "The Traditional Look" Category D (3) "The Traditional Look" Category Appendix E (1) The Modern but Conservative Look" Category E (2) "The Modern but Conservative Look" Category E (3) "The Modern but Conservative Look" Category Appendix F (1) "Miscellaneous" Category F (2) "Miscellaneous " Category Appendix G: Illustration Interview Transcript Appendix H: Summary Interview by Interview Results Appendix I: English Translation, Interview Guide Questions 39 Salah satu dari beberapa Program Impressions yang dapai Anda peroleh adalah : AROMA THERAPY Yang dapai mvngatasi STRESS! Sakit Kepala, Migrain, Sinusitis, Bronchitis atau Gang- guan Pernafasan, Kurang lit Karena Kvgenwkan. ••-' Ketikamasihkuliah...? Sebelummelahirkan...atau AROMA THERAPY .1d.1l.1h Urrapi pcngoh.it.m yang sang.it Beberapa belas tahun yang lalu ? populer di Antvrika untuk : angcin kuatir, • Mcii^hil.in.nk.in/mriinn.ink.in ^,111^11.111 s.ilur.in segala kenangan manis pcm.ii.i-~.iii, M'lH-rli : hrnm hiiis, siiuiMlis tltin niasa lalu Anda dapai 1.1(1.111)*, 1.111.ill)', li'Mj'.i'.nnik.in l.lillliv.l. kami hadirkan kembali. • Mriivinlmlik.iii |)ir.iiu;-piiMiii'., s.ikil krp.il.i. 1111^1.111). vcillHn, I.is,1 llHl.ll, Irsu (I,in litl.lk •"""l)i'is('in.ini,,.il, y.mg Ji.ikih.ilk.in oleh sln*ss. Dengan program Impressions Anda dapai kembali menjadi • MiMii'.liil.iiM'.k.in schilil srhinsyvi kwlil mi'ii|.itli ramping seperti masa IkiIiis 'km It'inluil, si-ii.i int'iis'h.iii: ink.in Iriii.il Icm.ik I11I111I1 sfliiiu,,i',.i b.id.n: llirnj.itll 1.1111|»i1»J*i romaja Anda. btiiidinuuupun bentuk tubuh Anda sekarang. IMPRESSIONS MEMANG UNTUK ANDA Dapatkan Paket Kris Dayanti (PKD) dengan Discount s/d50% dan Hadiah Tas Belanja bermerk (branded) , j£atau Tas Kulit EtienneAigner®. • rttj-ressions Ka in pins Ta n P a l-' c k s a m P*n K tral Ciknu JAKARTA PUSATI: Jl HayafflWuruk - SX-IX (sulwra •.,: Duta Merlin. Harnoni), Iclp (021) 300*1907 (hunting), JAKARTA PL/Sir 11. Cci mJiikn.*., ,• JAKARTA BARATI: Jl Mangga 11/17 (depnn Kotnplcks Green Vrtle Tanping Dun Building. Jl.Cikini Raya 58Si Tclp (0211 .1140240 (7tine 5857 Barat. Telp.(021) 5685118 (hunting). JAKARTA BARAT II • mtercon Ketion Jeruk Biok AA IV.'-it [belakiing Jameson Supermarket), Mp (021) 5862095. JAKARTA SELATANI. Wijaya' Sum!Centre UtO> 1 35-36KobiiyornnBaru.Telp l021,7Z021l2(hunlingWAKARMSeM)"AfVtf.-Koii I'" ,' Gajah Biok AC.Jl. Saharjo 111 Tcbel (••••i •«,i"iiBaku ;•.,.:•|. ir.| Telp (02I)83795025 (hunting), JAKARTA TIMUR :J> Ol.Stalll/64 Telp (1121 ,;, uko j 131 ..!•: IV 856198" " ,i (hunting 11/2 Telp -.11.11. TANGE 554313 520456 (scbera APPENDIX A (1) THE SEX SYIVIBOL CATEGORY 211734 .Kim :i Bangko >Nil 12 Telp.(0: ,«372772 (sobora.. ;«uiKi4ay (huntln ' °ASAR SCTV). rJI.Gai 37639. FEMIINA27SEP-3 0CT (0711): :JI W.I !ANG . IGAH 844238 415721 ) 1022) •I No 6 10231) > (024) Komple Jl Prol 414921 Batanv K.iv mini. 11 (0370) ill. Tclp IAMBI: i (OBII TAKEN FROM: KARTINI 13-27 SEP COSMOPOLITAN OCT ! no i' 'IANA! .(0342) untmoj MANA, Jaka _ ...,.._.,-_..-...-.1al;,IKJ •OenpasafMataram* BandarLampung*Palembang• Jambi* Pekanbaru* Padang* Medan 'Batam •'Samannda • Balikpapan• Pontianak*Banjarmasin* Makassar »Manado • Palu JAM BUKA: Senin s/d Jum'at 09.00 s/d 18.00 - Sablu 09.00 s/d 16.00 Dalam rangka menyambut 8 tahun Impressions di Indonesia Sebagai ungkapan terima kasih kami berikan hadiah satu program cumacuma bagi setiap pelanggan. Dengan hanya membayar satu pro gram Anda berbak memperoleh dua Payudara adalah Mahkofa Wanita, Rawat dan jagalah Keindahannya dengan cream dan tablet yang terbuat dari tumbuhan, seperti PUERARIA dan ALFALFA tanpa bahan kimia sama sekali. • Bust Improving Cream : untuk mem- perindah dan memperbesar payu dara yang kecil & tidak proporsional. program sekaligus: satu untuk Anda • dan satu lagi untuk rekan Anda. • Bust Firming Cream : untuk mengencangkan dan mengembalikan bentuk payudara seperti semula sebelum melahirkan. Bawalah rekan Anda ke Studio '••:; • Disampirig program perarhpingan, ! Impressions juga menyediakan:. - • Pueraria Tablet/Capsules : dibuat dari tumbuhan Pueraria yangdiperkaya dengan bahan-bahan alami Impressions terdekat. Dengan membayar masing-masing - separuh dari total harga program, §&? Anda dan rekan Anda memperoleh satu lainnya, yang sudah terbukti berkhasiat untuk memperbaiki bentuk pa yudara disamping memperfoesar / mengencangkan, menghaluskan kulit dan menghilangkan kerut-kerut di muka dan kulit tubuh. • Nipple Cream : fistii program lengkap dari Impressions. memperindah dan mengembalikan warna putting Anda kembali seperti IMPRESSIONS HANYA UNTUKANDA sebelum menyusui. 8"* @ HADIAH LANGSUNG : •* 1 SET PANTENE PRO-V (1 BOTCH SHAMPOO &1 BOTOL CONDI- -^. Wl1= '"'"- '^MtONERJ BAGI SETIAP CUSTOMER / PESERTA PROGRAM ]^ *5 3 4-L PLLSATOR : alat yang > terbukti paling efektif untuk mengencangkan, memperbesar payudara sehingga payudara menjadi indah dan menarik. _^Djpa!kan.PaketJ(iisJ}AyanlLlEia)X^denganJ1adiah__' Tas Beianja bermerk (branded) atau Tas Kulit Eu'enne Aigner*1 Etienne Aigner9 adalah mcrk icrdaftar Irnpresskms BODYCARE CENTRE Ram ping Tanpa Efek Sam ping JAKARTA PUS, BARATUS'. Ma 5057452,1 Sutfirrriiin},>fTeip. mtemationaISri)o5 33Z359<tiur£r&)Jr APPENDIX A (2) THE SEX SYMBOL CATEGORY Market)* in&mSN ^uSaMi 3tok SApol 3,Telp^27 3upratme.-mo»; ndah. Telp. (0341$4 :NP^AR^i;<5<jio(sabrojDi Vg*P?> Halem l/IC - 44 Kompleks Hcndok Cnandra. Telp (031) 6672772 (hunDng). SURABAYA PUSAT i J WK -an Relay SCTV). Telp (031) 7326627 (hunbna). MAIANG : J BJimO •*, Indah Meaah no.31 .B7/9I P^dokBlimb™ LAM.PUNG : J WottST/. r.J.MJii>JaS;G/vxrdp':!(072.ir^8a31 "" -'edeng PasirNo BtbdekiyigRSSda"gbri«ci£ffj751 <U9216 (hunting). MEDANBARAT^iTndfjSeSa^ Mai lembuswana Blok D-lfc•iais;{'anTmr(He^QSiii *STEK) Telp (0542)<1572j^lf3GJ6VBAR)ARMAS|Nc jnsKunganl.Telp :(0<31)e5S6i'"" Jakarta* 6ogor-Bek TAKEN FROM: KARTINI 27 SEP-11 OCT WW lbuh lafiig men II \Ma ampiiiiipfl perc Slimming Tea Mustika Ratu diramu oleh Ibu BRA. Mooryati SoediBy^ P. Hadiningrat dari daun Teh Hijaii pilihan dan daun Jati Belanda serta bahan-bahan.pelang^ng alami lainnya yang merupakan ramuan warisan tradisjKkei^lon. w, ^ Hasil uji preklinik.p^a|ahli Jepgiig dari Institute of IininurioloeiviToltyb^MD. |%$$ University, membukti lmming Tea Mustika Ratu^dapaj [mengurangi jaringan lerna 28hari. .ah dan h dalam "•] ": idi, mulailah minuirLS itu 3 kali seharifa $£&&&••• Mustik^ Has ins: -• lempesona dan menjadikahj percaya din£. 1 Kini tersedia Slimming Kaple^lyan'g praktis untuk dibawa selama bepergiaii^W ^ HASIL SUMMING TEA 21 28 TOKYO U.D. UNIVERSITY B. r' PenelitianTokyoM.D University Jepang (erliadap SlirnmingTrjar 38*w ^SMHSSS'*^'?*! .-T:,... j liN 1111 ISffa trill KARTINI 27 SEP-11 OCT TAKEN FROM: Jvlifghella voiornx 'Lipstick Dengarf llicorice Extract dan Vitamin E Lipstick tahan lama yang menjoga warna bibir tetap alami, Iembut & nyaman lirabella Colorfix Lipstick menghadirkan 3 trend warna baru (red, pink & coral) untuk / mewah yang tahan lama namun teta menjaga warna bibir tetap al n APPENDIX B (1) THE WESTERN LOOK CATEGORY mengandung Licorice Extraction Vitc hari-hari Anda selalu ceria dan penur JMifabellt Face by Nature Beauty by Mlrabe TAKEN FROM : FEMINA 4 -10 OCT r APPENDIX B (2) THE WESTERN LOOK CATEGORY O TAKEN FROM: COSMOPOLITAN OCT Enam minggu yang mendebarkan ... Me^hi^nR hjri «^^S^ «*«£*$*"*•" Atki W5» 9** * Musii rajin ngaca nib! Uclah putihan belum?! Ah, dia bilang apa ya ngeliat aku berubah? -: ^%' • - ": I ii••;••'S'.\ • •. -• TAKEN FROM: COSMOPOLITAN OCT APPENDIX C (1) ANGLO-SAXON MODELS ai^SSSSUKM TAKEN FROM: FEMINA 4 -10 OCT dan Nail Enamel REVLON-'warria: M 81 liiacoal mm mm Y\* Paduansempurna kenyamanan invisible wire . I • • Waan lace mewab APPENDIX C (2) ANGLO-SAXON MODELS :• v*«.°v...;:/::. ;:.-v; ;. - COSMOPOLITAN OCT fyou fAanfa/ wa&g& TAKEN FROM: FEMINA 4 -10 OCT APPENDIX C (3) ANGLO-SAXON MODELS £™£l§i,-\, ''•'•- ' ' '•'••• t'v-V. .'-'^.« :•.-*•... -.• . ,,..-.v. :• .-•\/j j*<\%&y. '•^ • ".• I C ESttsEli G yang diutarakan pun masih seputar teman, pacaratau cinta. Walaupun c mereka yang berkonsultasi masala APPENDIX D (1) THE TRADITIONAL LOOK CATEGORY Dari mana Lennes memiliki "Entahlah, saya juga ndak tahu. Tet; kok. Hanya sekedar membantu sajp Mengetahui akan kemampuannya, L niarn\(a moranrlah ana coHih L-ita harcic nornavia Hiri comna ciirlah Hi atnr bersyukur sekali. "Semua ini adalat itu saya percaya akan kebesaranrMenurut Lennes, meski belum be TAKEN FROM: KARTINI 27 SEP-11 OCT kerap dimintai pendapat atau jalan dan teman-temannya yang tengah mengalami suatu konflik dalam rumah tangganya. Ya, kadang saya ju ga suka malu mas, lha wong saya ini belum kawin Multivitamin Untuk Anak-anak kok," katanya sambil tertawa. "Tapi, saya mem dengan Formula Lengkap bantu mereka sesuai de ngan porsi dan kemampuan saya. Jadi saya ndak mau ngoyo. Kalau tidak bisa, ya saya katakan.saya tidak mau berbohong," tegas Lennes yang sesekali diminta pula menjadi bintang akan yang cukup, cukup jumlahnya dan cukup pula nilai gizinya, sangat penting untuk.anak-anak. Agar dapat tumbuh sehat dan cerdas. adalah multivitamin untuk anak-anak dalam masa pertumbuhan. Apalagi bila anakitu baru sembuh lamu di sebuah stasiun ra dio di kotanya. . dari sakit. Selain kelebihan terse- Formulanya lengkap dan out, Lennes juga memiliki Kelebihan lain. Ternyata rasanya enak. Bila anak Anda perlu tambahan Lennes bisa membaca wa- tak dan sifat seseorang multivitamin, berikan yang ditemuinya dengan hanya melihat raut wajahnya saja. Namun sehubungan dengan kemampuan terse but Lennes menolak dikata- kan dirinyaadalah seorang peramal. "Wah wah, saya ini bukan seorang peramal ka rena saya memang tidak bisa meramal. Lagi pula, hal itu hanya saya pergunakan untuk kepentingan diri sendiri saja. Jadi kalau benar ya, syukur, kalau salah juga ndak apa-apa, toh tidak ada yang dirugikan," tuturnya panjang lebar. Menurut Lennes apa yang dilakukannya selama ini hanyalah untuk menolong sesama. "Kalau tujuan kita baik, Insya Allah, semua akan BERNOFARM kartini nomor 2045 47 APPENDIX D (2) THE TRADITIONAL LOOK CATEGORY TAKEN FROM: FEMINA 27 SEP-3 OCT WtgtK^mm cricri cava cncn ncwncpA "Tebdk. . . Aku bisa budT Usahanya membuatkan Andakapa tentu membuat Anda bangga Di usia 3 tahun, ia oda dalam masc penting pertumbuhannya Berikan Dancow 3* dari Nestle formula khususnya mengandunc EFA-Linoleat dengan yodium untul* membantu perkembangan otak dar Prebio 1 untuk melindungi sistem pencernaannya serta meningkatkan kekebalan tubuh secara alami. Anda tentu ingin kejutan lain kan ? TAKEN FROM: APPENDIX D (3) THE TRADITIONAL LOOK CATEGORY aku Dan kau suka Dancow atau Minggu.Sedang hari-hari lainnya sangat sepi," kata Paul yang sudah lancarberbahasa Indonesia itu deng nyambung hidupnya. an suara lirih. Sebagai manusia biasa, Paul mengakui, dia juga punya rasa rindu pa da ibunya yang masih hidup, adik dan kakaknya yang kini bermukim di Inggris. Hampir 21 tahun mereka tidak bertemu."Dulu, semasa jadi pelatih, Dulu, sebelum mebuka warung ke cilitu, sebagai sandaran ekonominya, Paul membuka usaha penyewaan perahu untuk orang-orang yang hobi memancing, karena perairan sekitar RINDU AKAN KELUARGA lah yangmenjadi sandaran untuk pe- tanya berlapang dada. Tidak hanya itu, beberapa bulan iuu oaya, ici(jai\oa uaicu karena biava Denairimannva terlalu rekomendasi mantan Gubemur Lam- CATEGORY TAKEN FROM: ditangani Kepolisian setempat, Paul telah mencabut perkaranya dan memaafkan peiaku penusukan tersebut. "Saya anggap itu sebuah musibah yang tidak disengaja oleh peiaku," ka- umnya, tanpa sebab yang jelas, uga pernah dikeroyok sekelomnak muda yang hendak meramla. Meski demikian, tidak pernah ouatnya menyesal menjadi orndonesia. la menjadi WNI atas .•cm iounya secara pribadi, juga atas APPENDIX E(1) THE MODERN BUT CONSERVATIVE tersisa. ia harus menauras semua uana sempat dirawat beberapa minggu di rumah sakit. Meski kasus ini sempat KARTINI 13-27 SEP mabuk di Teluk Betung. Paul pun , Poedjono Pranyoto, Wakil Ke3taf TNI AD, Letjend. TNI.Johny mintang. Pengesahan WNI-nya indatangani tanggal 10 Nopem999 di pengadilan Negeri Tanjung ng, Lampung. Y. Chandra Muas kartini nomor 2044 25 am pi I menan< cc fak mungkin ada yang muda dan menarik selamanya, yang ada adalah tampak muda dan menarik lebih lama... Ag;r bisa tampak muda lebih lama, saya berusaha hidup sehai, serasi dengan alam. Seimbang antara tubuh, pikiran eo dan jiwa. Bila perlu saya minum Natur-E. •••{•/. .• Natur-E, vitamin E-nya disarikan dari bahari-bahan natural • isa... seperti minyak biji gandum dan minyak biji buriga matahari. iral sangat baik dalam'membantu mem- is perusakan •. •• - : ; '&%:$$) i:/JM'- APPENDIX E (2) THE MODERN BUT CONSERVATIVE japat apat memmem: * CATEGORY r<„ <ehalusan V, ,-i~rz^.«jfc-.«#,'' /Qrp^^tj&mti \ ' '.^T«MS®^| m,.- illili at vitamin. E''k yang naiurai saya hanya•••yw&$-'. i3v&k MM* KARTINI 13 -27 SEP, TAKEN FROM: 27 SEP-11 OCT, FEMINA 4-10 OCT ** I *\ *'\ Diprodufcli oleh: > Hptx/p. \/~ rip PT Darya-Varia Laboratoria Tbk GunungPutri, Bogor-lndonesia APPENDIX E (3) THE MODERN BUT CONSERVATIVE *V^&<rf&&rf~^. •:-?£ CATEGORY I '^^f^^^^^a?^ > •:| ijii.ci Jfuny TAKEN FROM: KARTINI 7-13 SEP :^p&'$$• Excellence Creme tersedia di supermarket atau department store terkemuka. • :. -."V -i Consumer Relations L'oreal: (021) 527-6370, e-mail: [email protected] •• •:}•;•• ~:k':.\ Kuatnya vHihgga Tumbuh Dewasa! Anak yang sedang mengalami masa pertumbuhan |^;..: biasanya mereka melakukan aktivitas yang tinggi. !&.. Hal-ini menyebabkan tulang menjadi lebih cepat ~ nyerarj'kalsium. Apalagi mereka juga sedang galarm" masa pembentukan tulang dan gigi. ngga mereka memerlukan kalsium lebih yaitu skitar 600-700 mg/hari. Dengan KALZANA D 2-3 kali sehari sangat membantu agar tulang dan gigi tumbuh sehat dan kuat. Kuatnya Hingga Dalam Kandungan! Ibu yang sedang hamil atau mi"", .<.ui memerlukan kalsium sebesar 1200 mq'Hari seperti yang direkomendasikaf 'Men Adequate Intake. Di samping itu irrivirut Journal of the American Medical Association jika ibu hamil meng^'ami kekurangan kalsium maka resiko kelahiran prematur akan lebih besar atau menye babkan berat badan bayi menjadi tidak normal (low birth weight babies). Tingkat kebutuhan kalsium sebesar itu, tentu saja makanan sehari-hari tak akan mencukupi. Dengan minum 2-3 kali sehari @ 2 tablet KALZANA D akan membantu terpenuhinya kebutuhan kalsium, sehingga bayi dalam kandungan dan anak yang sedang disusui akan tumbuh lebih sehat. Kuat Tak Keropos! Osteoporosis atau kerapuhan tulang seringkali ^ menghantui kita setelah memasuki masa manula. Ini o|.-disebabkan kita kurang memenuhi kebutuhan kalsium. •jJlDengan kalsium yang cukup tulang keropos dan gigi 1 keropos dapat kita hindari. Minum KALZANA Dsetiap i&hari, tulang keropos dapat kita cegah sedini mungkin. APPENDIX F (1) MISELLANEOUS CATEGORY KALZANA D suplemen vitamin dalam ben mengandung Kalsium yang cukup. K mengandung Vitamin D3 (dalam dosis dapat membantu tulang TAKEN FROM: KARTINI 7-13 SEP menyerap .:.•. menanggulangi kekurangan kalsium. Pada masa kehamilan berolahragalah secara teratur atau sesuai petunjuk dokter Anda. • KALZ Keterangan Lengkap Hubungi : PT MITRA FARMA UTAMA JAKARTA • USPEI ENGAJ RASAJERUK Telp.: (021) 6929961, 6927609 Fax.: (021) 6906340 BACAATURANPAKAI ZANA 0Rl8S1fi6OnR1OA1 ui.Miii n T.hl.t l<t "ARISTQN... Gairah kehidupan rumah tangga masa kini!" Lula Kamal TAKEN FROM: KARTINI 13 -27 SEP APPENDIX F (2) MISCELLANEOUS CATEGORY PERFETTA OVEN & GRILL FEATURES C 967 GPD(X) EX 48 Itr oven capacity Minute minder DIMENSIONS HOB Height 85 cm 3 gas burners Width 90 cm 2 double face fish burners Depth 60 cm 1 double ring burner Electronic Ignition on all burners Safety device on all burners Gas oven Double Glazed oven door Gas grill Safety device on oven & grill Tempered glass lid Finishing in Stainless-steel Dishwarmer Compartment Gas bottle compartment Electronic Ignition on oven & grill Oven light Thermostat Rotisserie rrifi Your next desire ISPS^^A^a'Taman AnggrekU 4/471, Jakarta Barat Tel./Fax. (62-21) 563 9042 • Jl. Pinangsia Raya No. 91. Jakarta 11110 Telp. (62-: cIdJi^c2.™2,?6,4^ ?SL?SJJ?^ffiS3J) 69° 5321 * Ratu Plaza Shopping Center Lt. 2. Unit 22 Tel./Fax. (62-21) 725 14 SMS CENTRE^(l?;2A)o5fil^75o540 °776' 54° BRANCH/SERVICE CENTRE:. (62-31) Supermall 841 9426 •(dibuka Semarang (62-2420(3 5460 • Denpasar. (62-361) 246171 • Pontianak. Telp.095° 08125601516 • Medan. (62-61) 457 Surabaya 2585 • Bandung September HUBUNGI DEALER-DEALER TERDEKAT DI KOTA ANDA APPENDIX G: ILLUSTRATIVE INTERVIEW TRANSCRIPT BIANCA: Apakah Anda sudah pernah membaca majalah Kosmopolitan, Femina atau Kartini? RESPONDEN: Ya , sudah B: Berapa kali sebulan Anda membaca majalah wanita? R: Majalah wanita, dua kali sebulan B: Biasanya, Mbak suka membaca majalah wanita apa? R: femina sama Cosmopolitan B: Apakah Anda suka menonton televisi atau menonton film di bioskop? R: Suka. Kalau film, kebanyakan program Barat, kalau musik juga, kalau Indonesia, sedikit Sinetron. B: Berapa umur anda? R: Saya berumur duapuluh tiga tahun B: Mbak beragama Islam? R: Ya, saya beragama Islam B: Apakah Anda masih kuliah atau sudah bekerja? R: Saya masih kuliah, B: Menurut Anda, perempuan Indonesia yang 'ideal' punya sifat seperti apa? R: Sifat perempuan Indonesia? Menurut aku - terbuka. B: Maksudnya gimana? R: Maksudnya begini: terbuka terhadap isu atau kemajuan jaman, jadi tidak hanya mengulusi masalah rumah tangga aja, jadi perempuan Indonesia harus tahu, harus pinter. Maksud saya, harus mengetahui isu diluar, tahu perkembangan. B: Apa Lagi? R: Yang lain, kebanyakan perempuan sekarang sudah bekerja, jadi disamping pekerjaan, di juga harus tetap tahu sama kodratnya sebagai wanita, mengurus rumah tangga dengan baik. 40 B: Bagaimana tentang iklan dan model yang disukai dan tidak disukai? Jelaskan alasan Anda. R: Modelnya yang nggak suka yang ini (indicates Pamela Anderson) B: kenapa model ini tidak disuka Mbak? R: Karena cerminannya wanita jadi telalu arogan. telalu vulgar, telalu mengekspliotasi B: Bagaimana yang disuka Mbak? R: Suka ini (Sarah O'hare) Dia bisa kelihatan cerdas, kelihatan dinamis. dan dia juga sesuatu yang indah. B: Menurut Anda, model yang mana paling mencerminkan perempuan Indonesia? Jelaskan alasan Anda. R: Nggak bisa semuanya dong! B: Bagaimana gaya pakaian yang sesuai untuk perempuan Indonesia? (shown appendices A:1,2,3) Jelaskan alasan Anda. R: Tergantung situasi B: Terus? Kalau ada pesta, begitu? R: Ya, kalau ada pesta B: Bayangkan jika Anda mirip model dari iklan ini. Anda ingin seperti model yang mana? Jelaskan alasan Anda. R: Yang ini (Sarah O'hare) B: Kenapa modeel ini dipilih? R: karena dia ekpresif dan confidan B: Bayangkan jika memiliki uang yang sangat banyak (tak terbatas). produk apa saja yang ingin Anda beli, produk kosmetik yang ada sini atau tidak? Kenapa? R: Ya, mau, tapi sesuai dengan kebutuhan saya aja. 41 APPENDIX H: SUMMARY INTERVIEW RESULTS 42 CO Ol CD 00 <o ?3££ -5 5-01 ^-f P 42* Its* s So 1& 2^ + 3 -" & vo o c^ *r* o 0 n i 0 - f4tT GO 9* - a (& d o 31?, J) *S If c t < x c D VL i"5 U r* iSSl 171 it? I? oi3 a 3331 £ ^?32 Hi r3i ro o c 3 a c rF17 * • IT t-l ^ *s. < ft 3 33 -a 5 ft an Sag 3 a. L© •» 3 ' "5 — 3SS ' £° + 3^L? 0-arT 50, x. r i j$ fit r* 3 < <. 0 K> 5 ?3 =*" si 0 V S03d parn 3 a —<o r re o it (Til*- 0> LC v_/ »5 * si . o 0 0 °5 o Or0t <*vt «^ c* — "i3 7^ "i o — - £ ^ o 15" "3 ^ li o •* o 3*<H <5 11 "hi 0 aT 3 -Q?3 5. o 0 ^ ^ vl v5' i o Be o H I Z CD 0 \J 5-° t» 3? D tD D J) as A. (,* o •4* w i t BACKGROUND IDEAL QUALITIES LIKE Dor><.C\rO/£vj-,iU DISLIKE IDEAL MODEL tlCcroew-O)) appvop v tcrte. neat 7> 11 vtutWm, ihickerrtri.1. v-avekj veacl€» mat\6 TV- Uweb <jj«es^pvtb£. 12 i5. rrvcN^^.SorTeUmes OrrvatrwAi . pvot-eV*\ov^\ AOv^gor^ ^CAvAiCxb vc»ve\y v€a<^ rnogi, Pomelo- t>voc\uct -Cfvpatovc^ net jovOcxpve^ fate. <, b<^fj3 a^Wrt*^ uriciea*'- or>^ coco*, "Ud&^z "SopcurA, yop'i No, Aottf*T saju &eodefc« vop*i; ^opoo SrvideriA., <ii of\eo vecxa^ mac\S>. 0<av^rt"V> "vc* ^ P/ 2<d 15 oaveW ujcvvdioev. tv, U<? Minnas/ vt-oo UO\r«eCA\- Htnlui'fi^rv &Vi ny\e, i«Q ^cvnsou-r tv>e DVOJ vsj«A-u»v'«» tovaoa c\yx.. - «WacAwe. bLrt ncvrr»a\ e - on\u si rv^p\e pe^«* - n o - 'inapptA r»e ka^j -rv>e r*0 Wovea V• Fermn»n vap'i Sopc^V CcAv\^V2, rr>c\\Z\ -|ei>, V'A^i^V uovecil +• XXXKzXi |Vevcnc\v \^o«^, le/V^iVarj 17 •t\date pxs t\dAV3 Soh(\n, U-iC^U CnC V£S,deperxli^ <v^er»oyj\Virtf'> t-£ \b\Afln, rna^div» ^iaAvJlve e 18 ^0- teeocrh^ coTti Second \budc»oao^ti to.ernrtrnpuc\r>y v<?d»G. we*, xvr mo\<"s n<a p p va -tyre ^dcik ada. - \^av mo n • 7e<> . pc\rry£\a- \ndvvtdv\flt«^i WppvATVAe {-vein is}^"^'*^ PC. ^Av,.M»lV)j fciO'iW',, wo. 19 2i. pvcrvev, V2,«rr>ompiwiO' TN -*A<ev> v^ei,-rev n -r 20 ooW »f Tv>eye -/€£. C^>0 CT>UC^SVi-\A) rso'T A-ao Q cvrwov TV^ ULiVvA. A \ri6o, TfBS. need. txpv(2t£\-f Ae\c*\u 16 yt£> »t to a \cebe*^ vi ornu-rxocd SedevA-a«-»<>, pvxsductjnot. to get atta,OVvor* ctvtvacvwje. fM-o«A lo/^fli xe^» no- inrtppvvTV*. cc-vsevvaVwe / Covy><» wc\V-\p PURCHASE sutu s^>a^ nae-Trv>ftae Dane cut: j 13 RESEMBLE rteati art^o cn^e su^u 2>eodev<a. 14 COTHING tfLecanr-ite-OO b\c>SQ o0a ^J O.Vuv <2 G .- vexpect Vkevo->n v-i-too arid rtjomcsifh voa^ „Y*A^-^ s\-)e'^. a-tterrtvoio T\oe mcncM ir^pcVTariT BACKGROUND IDEAL QUALITIES Hous-vave\tj, t^ - Oiode*n -tw\n^tkA9 NtS. wjes."Uvr\A- \ndo bv\t &KU auvjo.ve of \v\do cviv-VvA-ve. vtv\dfcvd-, MiM\irn, 21 fnovnes - ISO; 23 LIKE HOvtuv^vi, DISLIKE iA^VrriCiVAtXn - A*\a\m bcinv^xb TA«TlOV A(Xpi- 22 oq/^ali adC\ di 5\ e\opmsnl/ K> 0\CMLt \W.Afrrevt COTHING RESEMBLE ^vieb\»acvrA to- ha^pM . •Aev^CuATU**) <Ldva\A 0;lnc\VP/ e*p\,esa^ • PURCHASE pOcUYTt ujOnA; \>ev\«bvban &pj»n Acs \deo^ s vAui\\\-n,s.tucJvn-t, 2.3 IDEAL MODEL t-ov-eaL- Q a^a. cAtnq ao tebv^tabonnjc \ncJM->, ^OVUv-e 6; loveo I-cm cy^ an a rnj/ed . t 23 ov(\>r\(A.vanAft\r>, ovanc\ -nw»o\r \evmavvro\-) he s^vauut^ rWrtuvee \^vAr^lv\j»p. ev:x.p\ovV(Ai\ ievr^vii-ur»c^ \2et>v\tuhofA 24 £esc\'TVoooG>on c)i( ^v>e"Wcn. vAjcv/ke*/ "2"4 Wd'vCm\ - oj^ftfe c\6a vnasih vopt«D 25 ovo*\a io$o»r», vWnOV-), Pancovc/ $.u\^vAVe»A6tva vaip\, \^\b\Af>n - ,r>ertcUdtw£ n^5 c\C oua bevr^am, SVAi,| ponced "rne*u',aw\v / V«"'/ rr.au , sopan ftva ad. YG5 c\<naV* 26 l-\ev«ntit\«vtXiO ~A«\0\U v-» a-hjiK£ C feendcva- rr.erv> pev^oo nm^ VES c.\\n(ite_ 27 osiers TeudiTTYT^iT w-evi -v \odo \-a.o\i\«?4. ioccvn, c««av-i\£ \VvJ\fnc*vv\~u n CO - no veAofioOWi. J wtna - cOoAiti tmou adci p«ita j?ptrt*vev*.e o\r 28 5>abav, ndafc 2.6. d\\»upcv'fl-Cv.vA CCClvuV*ltJc< &er>dev<ry triou V/^l- Ociir\to*-o culture. \u»vtmi v^oO ervenv Omoto- V2o0^iTVie\^ TV v^, \»-nO«t UuCiAr \\v ** pvute \o ict\*Avp 30 ^v>i^m, 2 5 pavAo^U1 ^ $ud,u fcenrJewi/ U\a\u b«tvV>\pOnc«*, 29 'A€s'ftaiit-ur>f) 90\AAt•^C^ - rsdot 60COK. >dr!rc» A:\c\d t^voncAl ^arv>u| |ot*'o^ BACKGROUND IDEAL QUALITIES LIKE DISLIKE rvooe veaAiu 10 veal. Vtevmavvtan IDEAL MODEL nd-afc aaa COTHING ^vC^aviAunc^ RESEMBLE PURCHASE i-\d£N^w»a^ Nes. 31 ^tWm o^v^cvh dvttxca. TV- \acVot feo.vac, patecA* jlvbab mo* vie \ v>c, svucj^^t, ^CpAO fcebv^citjaao lidata. cciovr Suiu &erxAeva bda\e fvACWA • vo.dooe'svG. 32 .\Vuc\e*»t., maium, 22 Pamela a- panda* Wovea\- modern, \Aevrvtov.viToo \Caveev, tCvo^a'A-tuo^ each pe»i ^or> nACsaVi rr>au V/E-S . 33 iu5»u- \eto\vA &2\fc>\.A£>VA. 34 ux,vVa. , nojOjavz adc\ \\dcite. 60C0V2. <Y\&va . 1%. paV\eo, ve\t\^^ fnanclwi, cX\Sv p\ *0 35 sopao V~r: omnci. S vA t Ct . A-vda^ ada -1e\rtu fxdoM rr»QM cCCo\e. Aev'VxvtcA . v_a*ouv-, ts> . AOtvckoa cXocvauv, rV «ypv(*--»S» ^£ rfVAS.\w'v\( 1Q, Vortex - ii\cA.\; tevbvA^n, cr\eon rx?v. -bc«iUA^a n^<^oti cujci v \ve*f»"~» AAd&Va cocok. 36 "*"PorYu2Aa V)iSa b«2VCvCVUu»; Lc<e<x\ 1 rVevnrY«.v^vo^/ •A'arneA'a. fr»cc^Y<A/ m0Svv*» so pan, f£vYi »vi"w^ 37 .•ic. jav-onAcj d\toca,Tv Uoveal- mo«^d<v\( \0A€\.u^ent, Y?\sa Vjevo>ao-l. vCaVau ad a pevta . v4aV\Mee St!\Wibr>Arj OQ^Q-l^-CX^Ci n(i^<at odft . t\e*vfiav< v v*» ."i VtS vtturvjr^ 38 £09001 pmA-ev-j \ovecd. mv<YlC>Vi(.VC0 Uoveo\- ^eomvAi(A^e\P3A^ T-ev^qr>TM,rjCj UOveal ^es-. 39 0tVi<A veadS, fV^i Vv^dO+tO^^^t »YrOut^ 40 9\«\e/y Vi ^ WvAau| uovea 1/ -\Aav rY\on i vl « vVatuve t y voveal p4crVuv-vi 6 . ndo<C CQCOf . ^cl, APPENDIX I: INDEPTH INTERVIEW GUIDE QUESTIONS 1. Have you ever read Kartini, Femia or Cosmopolitan? 2. How often do you read these womens magazines? a. Often b. Sometimes c. Rarely 3. Do you like watching television or watching films at the cinema? 4. If so, which programs/films do you enjoy watching - Western or Indonesian? 5. What is your age? 6. What is your religion? 7. Are you a student or do you work? 8. According to you, the Ideal Indonesian Woman possesses what characteristics? 9. From these advertisements, which models do you like and dislike? Give reasons for your answers. 10. According to you, which model from this selection of advertisements best reflects the idela Indonesian Woman? Explain your answer. 11.1s this style of clothing (see appendix A) appropriate for the Indonesian woman? Explain your answer. 12. If you were able to resemble any model from this selection, which model would you chose? Explain your answer. 13. Making the assumption that your money is unlimited, would you purchase the products (namely cosmetic products/womens products) advertised in these magazines? 43