Lipex® Illipesoft
Transcription
Lipex® Illipesoft
Borneo Butter for Natural Body Care News! Lipex® Illipesoft stable illipe butter for body butter and other skin care applications soft and dry skin feel with high emolliency sustainable ingredient from the rainforests of Borneo Lipex® Illipesoft is a novel improved illipe (shorea) butter with soft consistency and simple crystallisation behaviour. It is especially suited for emulsified and anhydrous body butters due to its excellent moisturising properties. shelflife, even when used at high levels in the formulation. Typical levels in a skin care formulation would be up to 5 %. Stable even at high levels in skin care formulations Lipex Illipesoft differs from traditional Illipe butter in that the melting and crystallisation behaviour has been optimised to suit the needs of the cosmetic industry. Traditional Illipe butter is a hard, brittle solid melting close to body temperature while Lipex® Illipesoft has a higher melting point (49 °C) but is softer at room temperature, see figure to the right. The crystallisation and stabilisation into the preferred beta crystal form is also more rapid. This gives formulations made with Lipex® Illipesoft a longer 100 Solid fat content (%) 80 60 ® 40 20 0 10 20 30 40 50 Temperature (°C) Traditional Illipe Butter Lipex® Illipesoft www.aak.com | [email protected] | USA: [email protected] Illipe soft.indd 1 10-11-09 08.57.10 Sustainable Borneo Butter for Natural skin care Illipe butter (INCI: Shorea Stenoptera Seed Butter) originates in the tropical rainforests of SouthEast Asia. The trees grow by the river banks and in water-logged swamps in Borneo at altitudes up to 800 meters. The climatic conditions are typical for tropical rainforests – high rainfall, 4000-5000 mm/ year, temperature 28-35 °C and relative humidity 8090 %. The tall trees (20-40 m) flower in SeptemberNovember after the dry season, the fruits ripening through January-March. The kernel weighing up to 45 grams is enclosed by five leaves that harden as the fruit ripens and act as a wing to assist in the spreading of the seed around the parent tree. The kernels are collected by the aboriginal inhabitants of the rainforests (Dayaks). The families go up the rivers in their longboats to the territories traditionally belonging to them. The ground beneath the trees that will yield a good harvest is cleared to make it easier to pick the fallen kernels and to scare away snakes and other dangerous animals. Kernels can also be collected from the rivers using bamboo or rattan nets or baskets. The wings are removed from the kernels which as split open and sun-dried to reduce the water content. Composition of Illipe butter The illipe butter is characterised by a very simple fatty acid composition, oleic, stearic and palmitic acid making up more than 95 % of the fatty acid composition. Stearic acid dominates (45 %), followed by oleic acid (35 %) and palmitic acid (17 %). Illipe butter has a fairly high amount of unsaponifiable matter (1.5 %), dominated by triterpene alcohols and phytosterols. The content of tocopherols (approximately 200 ppm) is typical for a predominantly saturated vegetable oil. Stearic acid 45 % Oleic acid 35 % Palmitic acid 17 % Unsaponifiables 1.5 % www.aak.com | [email protected] | USA: [email protected] Illipe soft.indd 2 10-11-09 08.57.15