read pieces - Divine Daytripper
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read pieces - Divine Daytripper
Mayan Journey text and photos by Ingrid Hart The aroma of amber-infused incense fills the thick jungle air. It’s after midnight as the Mayan procession of medicine men, rowers and maidens pass by. The high priest’s face is painted to look like a skeleton—an ominous black on white. Adding to his attire is a regal feather head dress and a commanding leopard skin covering most of his body. The rowers don white loin cloths and high ponytails that expose tender body parts. The maidens dress in bright orange cotton caftans made of burlap fabric that swishes on the ground as they walk. These pilgrims, over one hundred and twenty of them, come from the villages of Polé and Xaman-Ha along the coastline of the Yucatan Peninsula, an hour south of Cancun. They are here on the Sacred Mayan Journey to worship Ix Chel, the goddess of fertility and abundance. MexicoTRAVELER 2009 Fall Collectors’ Edition The Sacred Mayan Journey, now in its second year is a mystical and oftentimes theatrical re-creation of the ancient pilgrimage. 94 Throughout the night there will be rituals, ceremonies, music, and dance. In the morning the strongest of the group will row fifteen miles across the Caribbean Sea to the island of Cozumel. In unison, the haunting procession chants a simple prayer in a supernatural voice: Ix Chel: the mission and work are waiting for us. Ix Chel: nobody can hide your truth from us. The Sacred Mayan Journey, now in its second year is a mystical and oftentimes theatrical re-creation of the ancient pilgrimage. This his- torical and cultural legacy of Mayan past was lost after the Spaniards invaded and conquered Mexico nearly five hundred years ago. The journey’s sponsors include the eco-archeological park Xcaret, the marketing collaborative Riviera Maya and the island of Cozumel. According to State of Quintana Roo Tourism Secretary Carlos Joaquin Gonzalez, “We want to diversify the tourism base from beach lovers to include people who are interested in culture and archeology. We hope to innovate and initiate new projects that will showcase our best assets. The Sacred Mayan Journey is helping to rescue a lost culture.” History of the Goddess Ix Chel The heart of the journey resides in the worship of Ix Chel, the ancient Mayan goddess responsible for fertility of the earth, good weather, health and continuity of life. The story is told that pilgrims would petition the goddess to bestow upon them her blessings and favor them with a year of abundance. Sounds easy, right? Here’s where the “journey” part of the adventure begins. The challenge is that Ix Chel’s stronghold is on the island of Cozumel, a fifteen-mile canoe traverse from Polé, the site of present-day Xcaret, where the quest begins. The journey was a dangerous, mystical undertaking for these ancient navigators, whose trade networks were one of the crowning glories of the Yucatan culture. At the crossing were rough seas, leaky crafts, and bad luck – qualities that could terminate a life in short order. In the Mayan post-classic period, life vests were not an option. Once the paddlers were successful crossing the Channel of Cozumel along the Caribbean Sea to Ix Chel’s sanctuary, they had to endure a three-hour walk to the island’s center at San Gervasio. Bearing of- the others—friends. After a successful crossing to the other side, rower Betty Sandoval said that the group was singing and praying to Ix Chel. “We have great respect for the original Mayans. They were brave and powerful,” said the 37-year-old Cozumel native. “We were trying to talk my sister into having a baby. Ix Chel is the goddess of fertility—we almost got her to agree.” The drama continues as six long-haired maidens in floor-length orange-red dresses, arms outstretched in meditative prayer await the remaining rowers. Nearly thirty native men and women all wear white, with faces painted to reflect the time when the Mayan culture was rich with the promise of an everlasting existence. Today, these proud descendents of the Mayans are reliving the fantasia, the dream. Present Day Sacred Crossing Riviera Maya: Magic and Mystery “Exist in the moment” is the island of Cozumel’s motto. True to heart, present-day rowers recreating the Sacred Mayan Journey leave the island as the sun rises over the tranquil waters of eco-archeological park Chankanaab. They have one goal in mind, paddle across the 15-mile waters to reach the other side. These present day rowers are escorted It’s easy to fall under the spell of enchantment at the archeologically rich Riviera Maya. It is home to the ruins of Tulum, one of the bestpreserved coastal Pre-Columbian Mayan sites. The series of ancient buildings sit on a cliff, overlooking the Caribbean Sea. There is also the hidden city of Coba, temples, and ceremonial sites—all a living testa- by enthusiastic boaters and a coast guard vessel, each one keeping the spirit of the journey alive. On a white sandy beach at the end of the journey is wind-swept Playa del Carmen. The Caribbean Sea, turquoise and aquamarine, is churning with strength and ferocity on this alternating sunny and cloudy afternoon. A thousand enthusiastic natives and tourists await the arrival of remaining rowers. This recreation looks like a Hollywood movie set. In costume are one of the four mysterious medicine men, clad in full red body paint with a necklace of feathers and shells. Topping his ensemble is an imposing three-foot wide horizontal gourd headdress. He skulks along the beach like he’s ready to tear out the heart of whoever looks at him sideways. As he whistles into an ancient flute the sound carries in the wind sending chills into the rapturous crowd. As each boat load of exhausted and exhilarated rowers arrives on the shore, they are greeted with an explosion of applause and some good ole’ whoopin’ and hollerin.’ Among the 26-foot canoes, each with a crew of four to six rowers are a group of women who have trained for three months in anticipation of the event. Two are sisters, ment to the Maya civilization, one of the grandest in world history. The ancient Maya occupied a vast geographic area in Central and South America from around 2000 BC until 1500 AD. The reason for its collapse is still shrouded in mystery. Today, the region is a thriving tourist destination with a range of attractions from beach activities such as snorkeling, scuba and swimming to adventure sports like hiking, horseback riding and of course golf and tennis. Five-star hotels along with fine dining options make the Riviera Maya an appealing destination for visitors seeking a combination of cultural enlightenment, exploration and some down time to simply relax by the beach. So on your next visit to the Riviera Maya, if you happen to see a group of paddlers at sea dressed in native costume be certain to send along some good wishes. You never know when the goddess Ix Chel will offer her blessing and grant you a year of abundance. After all, her spirit is still alive in the hearts and minds of the Mayan people. If the success of the second Sacred Mayan Journey is any indication of what’s to come, it will be a great year indeed. h www.mexmagazine.com sacred ferings of corn, squash and cacao beans to honor the goddess, these pilgrims would then consult an oracle to channel Ix Chel’s wisdom on their behalf. The goddess provided insight for the year on her area of expertise. If all went well, omens of good fortune would be bestowed upon these courageous pilgrims. Before crossing in their wooden canoes made from the Pich tree back to the mainland, the pilgrims would receive a special blessing for a safe journey by el halach uinik – a wise man. Again the paddlers took to the dangerous sea. Upon their return to Xamanhá, the site of present-day Playa del Carmen, they were greeted by eager villagers, wanting insight into their future. Dances of joy were held celebrating the transmission of their goddess Ix Chel’s message. 95 Resorts Eco in Mexico Leaving a Smaller Carbon Footprint on the Environment text and photos by Ingrid Hart Imagine yourself at a boutique Mexican resort that caters to all your senses. You hear waves lightly crash on the pristine beach. Your feet touch the soft, sugar-coated sand, while above you, pelicans grace the afternoon sky. The scent of fragrant orange blossoms float through the air as you sip a cool margarita, and the first rush of well-being radiates through your entire body. You relax into the gentle knowing that not only are you on a glorious holiday, but you are supporting the environment. Welcome to the new, green, eco-friendly brand of vacation. As the impact of travel creates a larger carbon footprint on the environment, there are select resorts working within the boundaries of the new “green-energy” code of ethics. These resorts don’t ask their guests to sacrifice any comforts – they simply work within the constraints of eco-friendly principals. We researched resorts throughout Mexico that employ environmental values and offer alternative choices to consider for your next vacation “off the grid.” Hacienda Tres Rios - Riviera Maya Hacienda Tres Ríos, a brand new resort, resides within an extraordinary natural reserve, featuring mangrove forests, crystal-clear fresh water canals and a mile of virgin beaches¬ where the jungle meets the Caribbean Sea. The 273 deluxe rooms’ ambiance engages with the natural environment and offers elegant living spaces. Each generously sized room features its own private terrace or balcony, Jacuzzi tub, lounge sofa and flat-screen TV. The dramatic views from each room allow you to see the ocean or lush tropical gardens while relaxing in the comfort of your living area. Green-energy highlights: The location of Hacienda Tres Ríos was carefully chosen to create the least environmental impact. Before the hotel’s construction began all endangered species were removed from the worksite. Important plants were also moved to the Tres Ríos nursery for care and further propagation. All refuse materials are carefully sorted and, when possible, recycled. For example, all wood waste is mulched for use in the nursery and for future landscaping projects. Chemical waste is also carefully monitored and collected to avoid contamination. State-of-the-art energy recovery systems help save on waste and consumption. Recycling is a community-wide effort, with recycling bins in every room. www.haciendatresrios.com 102 Hotel Eco Paraiso sits on a pristine natural beach within a vast plantation of Malayan dwarf coconut palm trees. Imagine watching pelicans or flamingos flying across the skies. Visualize sea turtles coming ashore to lay their eggs or watching the babies hatch and make their way to the sea. There are millions of seashells at your footsteps, yet your only companions are the sounds of the sea and a few fishing boats passing by. All of the 15 spacious bungalows offer a phenomenal view of the Gulf of Mexico. Each room comes with two queen size beds, a sitting area with sofa bed, desk, comfortable armchairs, a spacious bath with a shower and of course, hammocks to enjoy the view. www.mexmagazine.com MexicoTRAVELER 2009 Fall Collectors’ Edition Hotel Eco Paraiso Xixim - Celestún, Yucatán 103 Green-energy highlights: This charming hotel is designed with great care to meet ecological standards. All of their water comes from a salty well. It is filtered with sand, gravel and activated carbon, stored and chlorinated. An inverse osmosis water system makes their water potable, so they can avoid buying water bottles that would cause more garbage. The resort keeps their illumination profile low to guide the little sea turtles away from the lights so they can find their way back to the sea. www.ecoparaiso.com Azulik - EcoTulum Resorts & Spa - Riviera Maya Azulik offers luxury and romance for honeymooners and couples seeking relaxation at their rustic, clothing optional, seaside eco-resort. Their 15 lavish, beachfront villas provide a spectacular view of the Caribbean Sea. Each villa is constructed of fine local hardwood with a large, private deck. Essential to their philosophy is the harmonizing of body, mind and soul. In-room spa services include a Mayan clay massage, ander throughout the resort. Some of the open-air rooms are perched on stilts over a lagoon, creating a unique union with nature—almost like luxury camping. An onsite primitive-luxury spa offers steam baths and a natural Jacuzzi with cold water. Spa treatments include mud baths, mermaid baths, stone therapies and traditional massage. Green-energy highlights: Hotelito is solar-powered for the energy needs of the hotel. There are no phones and ceiling fans cool the air. If you’re looking to help save the environment, participate in the sunset releases of baby sea turtles from the protected nesting area, June to January. Balamku - Costa Maya Balamku will suit visitors who want a change from the large resort experience. All the rooms at this quaint, eight-room beachfront resort feature private terraces overlooking the Caribbean Sea. The property sits in a natural, unspoiled environment with a community of friendly people. Each room is powered by solar and wind electricity, maximizing the natural ventilation. Room features include ceiling fans, beautifully tiled floors and tastefully decorated Mexican art. Green-energy highlights: Balumku ensures the protection of endangered trees and plants on their property including zapote—the original source of chewing gum, a variety of palms, and sea grapes. They continue to plant hibiscus, bougainvillea, banana, mango, papaya, lime trees, aloe vera, cactus and other local species. All the water from the showers and sinks supports constructed wetlands, providing controlled nutrition to a variety of plants. The toilets are low-flush, reducing water usage and the waste is filtered into composting units eliminating septic tanks—an important quality when building so close to the sea. www.balamku.com MexicoTRAVELER 2009 Fall Collectors’ Edition reiki with aromatherapy oils or exotic mud wraps. Visitors can connect with their inner selves through a Mexican purification ritual called Temazcal—or experience lucid dreaming in a flotation chamber. Green-energy highlights: Azulik’s daily operation strives for minimum impact on the environment. Electricity is available only for a few hours after sunset. There is no air conditioning. Gas tanks are brought in to heat water for the bathrooms, and bath water is brought from 104 town in trucks. Well water is stored in ground-level tanks and pumped several times a day to upper tanks to provide running water in all bathrooms. They reclaim wood/recycled building materials and promote the protection of biodiversity. Their spa products are organic and locally made. www.azulik.com Hotelito Desconocido - Costa Alegre Hotelito Desconocido means “little unknown hotel,” but don’t let that description sway you—this resort has charm to spare. The 24-rooms are constructed in the style of an old Mexican fishing village. At night, there are hundreds of luminary candles lighting the pathways that me- Villa del Faro is a small, unique and secluded hotel situated on 12 acres of gardens and desert over-looking miles of private, deserted beach. A stay at the villa is more like being a guest in an artisan’s home, which is exactly what the owners intend. Four casitas sit in lush gardens within the surrounding desert. Villa del Faro was built, as much as possible, around the cactus, leaving many trees and natural plants untouched. Always aware of the ecological impact they were making, the casitas were built as individual homes, rather than one huge imposing structure. The result is intimacy with the desert, a sort of interaction between civilization and the wildness of nature. Green-energy highlights: The series of four casitas are indeed “off the grid.” There are no phone lines or electricity. Everything at the Villa is run on solar power, supplemented by a generator when needed. There are propane powered hot water heaters, refrigerators and stoves. The water is trucked in and stored in a big tank where it is cleaned and purified. Water conservation is always a priority as everyone who lives in this desert area knows. The grounds feature drought-tolerant plants. Laundry is sun dried. This is a “green” hotel—with plenty of luxury to spare. www.villadelfaro.net h The scent of fragrant orange blossoms float through the air as you sip a cool margarita, and the first rush of well-being radiates through your entire body. www.mexmagazine.com Villa del Faro - Sea of Cortez 105