Brammo Motorsports LLC. 695 Mistletoe Road

Brammo Motorsports LLC.
695 Mistletoe Road · Suite A
Ashland, OR 97520
Phone: (541) 482-9555
Fax: (541) 552-0414
Carbon Fiber Wing Installation
This document outlines the installation of both the front and rear wing. This installation will require the
modification of some front bodywork.
Tools Required:
o Qty: 2, 7/16” End Wrench
o Qty: 2, 1/2” End Wrench
o 5/16” End Wrench
o 3/8” End Wrench
o 10mm End Wrench
o 5/32” Allen Wrench
o 9/64” Allen Wrench
o #2 Phillips Head Screwdriver
o Flat Head Screwdriver
o Die-Grinder / Dremel with both Cutting Wheel and Sanding Drum
o Drill Motor
o 3/8” Drill Bit
o 18 Gage Wire Cutter / Stripper
o Heat gun / Lighter / Small Torch
o Bullet Level
1
Rear Wing Install:
Included Components / Hardware:
Part Description:
Rear Wing Main Section
Left Endplate
Right Endplate
Assembled Wing Supports w/ Protective Strips
Upper Support Clamps w/ Protective Strips
Lower Support Clamps w/ Protective Strips
Cross-Brace Tube
Left-Hand Threaded Clevis
Right-Hand Threaded Clevis
10-32 x .75” Button Head Cap Screw, Stainless
10-32 x .75” Socket Head Cap Screw, Stainless
1/4-28 x 1” Socket Head Cap Screw, Stainless
1/4-28 x 1” Hex Head Screw
1/4-28 x 1 5/8” Hex Head Bolt
5/16-18 x 7/8” Hex Head Bolt
1/4” Washer
1/4-28 Nyloc Hex Nut
5/16-18 Nyloc Hex Nut
Replacement Rear Light Mounting Plate
18 Ga. Solder Sleeve
Quantity:
1
1
1
2
2
2
1
2
2
4
4
4
2
1
4
4
2
4
1
2
(See pages 7 & 8 for assembly drawings)
Begin by first removing the four (4) quarter-turn fasteners holding the rear deck onto the car.
These fasteners are located as shown:
2
Secondly, check your car to see whether you have the latest rear light mounting plate. The
newest plate doesn’t extend vertically as far on the chassis, providing clearance for the mounting of the
rear wing.
New Plate
Old Plate
If you have the older version begin by disconnecting the negative battery cable. Next step is to
remove the rear light covers from the square incandescent lights using your phillips head screwdriver,
and disconnect the wires from the terminals.
Note: If you have the FIA LED fog light option, unbolt the mounting lug from behind the
plate and pull the light from the plate. Since this light is permanently wired into the wiring loom,
you must pull back the any wire wrap, cut the wires a comfortable distance away from the light,
and strip the ends of the wires in order to re-solder them in the new mounting plate. Ensure that
the wires are labeled so that they aren’t confused.
3
Remove the center number light by unbolting the mounting lug from behind the plate. Once free,
pull the light away from the plate, and remove the small flathead screw on one size of the case. Open the
light, remove the bulb, and disconnect the wires. Pull the wires out through the back of both the lights
and the plate. Remove plate, and grab the small aluminum spacer behind it. Remove the remaining
components from the plate.
Reattach the two square lights to the new plate. Once the bases are attached, feed the wires
through the backs and connect terminals. Note that the ground wire (black) connects on the left most
terminal, and the power (green or red) connects in the center above the bulb. Screw on transparent
covers.
Note: If you have the FIA LED fog light, bolt the light onto the new plate, and place sleeve
over the exposed ends of the wires. Feed the two exposed wires into their appropriate sleeves
overlapping them with their adjoining wire, and heat. Apply heat to the center of the sleeve first to
allow the solder to flow, and then to the heat-shrink on each end, ensuring you don’t apply too
much heat as to ruin the sleeve.
4
Feed the license plate light wires through the center hole of the aluminum spacer, through the
center hole of the plate, and into the back of the license plate light housing. Connect the wires, noting
that the ground wire (black) connects to the right hand connector, and the power connects to the left.
Insert the bulb, reattach the housing, and fasten with the small flat head screw. Insert license
plate light lugs through the plate and spacer, and into the corresponding holes in chassis, and tighten
nuts from behind.
You can now fit the legs of the rear wing supports above the light mounting plate. Begin by
preassembling the supports as shown:
Bolt the two pieces together via the remaining bolt on the cross brace. Place the supports on the
rear of the chassis, and hand tighten the clamps around the chassis tubes. Center the assembly laterally
on the chassis, and tighten clamps. Remount the rear deck.
Note: Due to each chassis being hand built and hand welded, there may be a little flex in
the chassis, and such the wing supports may not fit exactly on the tube centerline.
5
The main wing section can now be placed atop the supports and the leading edge bolts can be
tightened down. The rear turn buckle should be centered between the two clevises before the clevis is
attached to the rear of the wing. To dial in the proper angle of attack, measure between the center of the
bolts on either end of the turnbuckle and refer to the chart below:
Length of
Angle Turnbuckle
eye to eye
Wing Angle
y = 0.0824x + 15.429
15.493
17
15.582
15.670
15.758
16.5
15.844
15.930
16.015
16
16.098
16.181
16.263
15.5
16.344
16.425
16.504
15
16.582
16.659
16.735
14.5
16.810
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10 11 12 13 14 15
16.885
Angle of Attack
16.958
17.030
17.101
Brammo Motorsports recommends approximately 10° angle of attack, thus requiring a
turnbuckle length of 16.3125” (16-5/16”) eye to eye.
Length of Turn Buckle
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
6
7
8
Front Wing Install:
Included Components / Hardware:
Part Description:
Front Wing Main Section
Left Endplate
Right Endplate
Lower Slotted Mounting Plates
Upper Mounting Plates
1” Reinforcing Bars
Round Spacers
10-32 x .75” Button Head Cap Screw, Stainless
10-32 x 1” Hex Head Bolt
10-32 x 7/8” Hex Head Bolt
1/4-28 x 7/8” Socket Head Bolt, Stainless
7/16-14 x 1 1/4" Hex Head Bolt
7/16” Washer
Small 1/4" Washer
Large 1/4" Washer
#10 Washer
10-32 Nyloc Hex Nut
1/4-28 Nyloc Hex Nut
Quantity:
1
1
1
2
2
2
4
4
4
2
2
4
4
2
2
8
6
2
(See pages 16 & 17 for assembly drawings)
Begin by removing the front bodywork from the car. This is accomplished by removing the three (3)
quarter-turn fasteners on the nose:
9
Next remove the seven (7) screws holding the main bodywork onto the chassis:
10
If the front bodywork will not fit past the front suspension rockers, you may have to unbolt shocks
from the rockers to provide clearance. If this is the case, use an automotive jack of any sort and jack up the
front of the car via the chassis tubes. When jacking up the car, the vehicle must be on level ground,
st
with gear shifter engaged to 1 gear. Do not jack up the car off either radiator. If you do not have
enough clearance under the car to fit the jack, you may use the suspension arms, but try to position the jack
as close to the chassis as possible. Jack the car up until both front wheels leave the ground. Place the car
on jack stands as outlined in your owners manual.
Unbolt the shock from the rocker. Let the wheels fall to the ground, and swing shock away from
bodywork. It should now be possible to remove the front bodywork.
11
The next step is to modify the front bodywork to provide clearance for the wing mounting hardware.
Using the supplied template, align the green template edge to the outside edge of the nose in the area
shown below. Mark the nose along the red edge, this material will need to be removed.
Also, mark off an area behind the template that measures 1/2" from the edge, and 4” long starting
from the edge of the template with the star. This long strip will also need to be removed. Repeat these
steps for the opposite side of the bodywork. Cut-out the bodywork using a dremmel / die grinder using
both a cutting wheel and a sanding drum.
12
Bolt the lower mounting bracket to the wing, noting the orientation of hardware shown on page 16.
Bolt the upper brackets to the lower brackets. Do not worry about setting the proper angle of attack at this
time.
13
Drill out the four (4) weld-nut threads on the front nose frame using the 3/8 drill bit. Eliminate any
burrs. Bolt the upper wing bracket onto the front nose frame noting the orientation of hardware shown on
page 17.
To set the proper angle of attack, place a bullet level across the center section of the wing, from
leading edge to trailing edge. Brammo Motorsports recommends that you level these two points. Due to
14
the wings geometry, the wing tips will then be at approximately 5° angle of attack. Tighten all the fasteners
to lock the wing into position. Reinstall the front bodywork, checking that the modified bodywork does fit
around the new wing hardware. Bodywork may need to be touched up in areas to ensure a proper fit. Rebolt the suspension together, and lower the car to the ground. Remount the nose using the quarter-turn
fasteners.
Installation Complete
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16
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