Hand Sewing Techniques for Quilters

Transcription

Hand Sewing Techniques for Quilters
hand sewing for quilters
learn how to hand sew
hand sewing techniques for quilters:
Learn How to Hand Sew Using
Ladder Stitch, Running Stitch,
Chain Stitch, and More
2
1
4
3
1 Embellished Stitches and Exotic Threads 3
2 The Running Stitch
4
Margaret Ball
julia Caprara
Ladder Stitch Sampler
Beryl Taylor
Power to the Hand Stitcher
Laura Wasilowski
how to hand sew using ladder, running, chain stitch, and more
Q u i lt i n g A r t s . c o m
1
©Interweave
hand sewing for quilters
learn how to hand sew
People the world over have used hand sewing
for centuries not just to stitch two pieces of
fabric together, but to add color, pattern, and
interest to their clothing and
home décor. Even though
today’s quilter has many
electronic tools to make
stitching and quilting easier
and faster, hand sewing
appeals to anyone who loves
fiber.
In this free eBook, Hand Sewing Techniques for
Quilters: Learn How to Hand Sew Using Ladder
Stitch, Running Stitch, Chain Stitch, and More
from Quilting Arts, you will see how, with a
few basic stitches, you can use hand sewing to
transform your quilts.
In “Embellished Stitches and Exotic Threads,”
fiber artist Margaret Ball describes how to
combine those wonderful fancy fibers we all
love with basic stitches like the chain stitch,
running stitch, back stitch, and variations to
create rich, three-dimensional embellishments
for your art quilts and fiber art projects.
Creative embroidery expert and mixedmedia fabric artist Beryl Taylor shows
you the amazing variations you can create
with one stitch in “Ladder Stitch Sampler.”
She combines wool felt, strips of cotton,
put
more
embroidery floss, and embellishments for a
sampler like you’ve never seen before.
Known for her colorful hand-dyed, fused fabric
quilts, Laura Wasilowski also has a talent for
adding just the right amount and type of hand
stitching to make a small art quilt go from flat
to fantastic. In “Power to the Hand Stitcher,”
Laura shows how to use hand stitches to create
backgrounds, add interest, and bring new life to
old projects.
hand sewing techniques
for quilters:
learn how to hand sew
using ladder stitch,
chain stitch, and more
Pokey Bolton
editor Cate Coulacos
Prato
Editorial director
Finally, we include an article on the versatile
running stitch written by the late Julia Caprara,
artist, lecturer, and writer in the textile art field.
Creating the running stitch is simplicity itself,
but Julia shows you the many ways you can
use it to alter the surface, texture, and even the
color of fabric for exciting, sophisticated effects.
creative services
Larissa Davis
Photographers Larry Stein
Korday Studios
Division Art Director
Whether you have been hand sewing all your
life or are new to this time-honored craft, Hand
Sewing Techniques for Quilters: Learn How to
Hand Sew Using Ladder Stitch, Running Stitch,
Chain Stitch, and More from Quilting Arts, will
show you exciting ways to add texture and
design to your quilts.
Projects and information are for inspiration and personal use only. Quilting Arts
Magazine is not responsible for any liability arising from errors, omissions, or
mistakes contained in this eBook, and
readers should proceed cautiously, especially with respect to technical information.
Interweave grants permission to photocopy any patterns published in this
issue for personal use only.
Warmly,
Pokey Bolton
Editorial Director
texture
in your life
ideas, textiles, and techniques
related to embellished and contemporary art quilting. Inside,
you’ll find design inspiration, step-by-step directions, gorgeous
photo­graphy, and motivation for developing your personal style, at
Quilting Arts Magazine® explores
all skill levels.
quiltingarts.com
fabric
dXb\fm\i
p. 28
FROM MISTAKE TO MAS
TERPIECE
tips
for
entering
QUILT SHOWS
from
to
photo
A R T Q U ILT
p. 14
Thread sketching
made easy
p. 46
800.406.5283 (U.S. & Canada)
760.291.1519 (International)
Quilting Arts Magazine®, P.O. Box 469087, Escondido, CA 92046-9350
how to hand sew using ladder, running, chain stitch, and more
Q u i lt i n g A r t s . c o m
2
©Interweave
hand sewing for quilters
learn how to hand sew
Adapted from
Quilting Arts Magazine
Fall 2006
embellished stitches
& exotic threads
by
M argaret B all
H
ave you noticed the dazzling
array of fancy threads
available in needlework shops
these days? They have “threads”
that look like very fine velvet or
suede cords, transparent knitted
rayon tubes with glitter threaded
through them, and a glitzy display
of metallic cords and braids in
all sizes and widths. If you go
next door to the yarn store, you
can add knotted and fringed and
ribbon-woven yarns to the list of
amazing embroidery materials,
but these can’t be used with
traditional stitching. Most of
these threads and yarns are just
too thick or too fragile to stand
up to being pulled back and forth
through the fabric in traditional
embroidery stitches. However,
you can use them on very loosely
woven fabrics, or you can couch
them down. You can incorporate
them into an embroidery project
“Between the Tides” • 81⁄2" × 61⁄4"
how to hand sew using ladder, running, chain stitch, and more
Q u i lt i n g A r t s . c o m
3
©Interweave
B
hand sewing for quilters
learn how to hand sew
A
D
by using embellished stitches and you can weave, twist, and layer these
fragile threads around a simple stitch you’ve already laid down in some
less-demanding thread,
like plain old embroidery floss. There are several
B
C
stitches that lend themselves to this type of embellishment: back stitch,
running stitch, chain stitch, and buttonhole stitch. You can also lay
down lines of bars (lines of stitches in a ladder-like row) in embroidery
A
floss as a base for some stitches.
B
D
C
A
B
S ingle - threaded
running stitch
1. Thread a chenille (sharp point)
needle with your decorative thread
and tie a knot in the end. Keep the
tension fairly loose so that you get
a line of nice, gentle curves.
5. Continue to bring the decorative
thread under the running stitches,
alternating direction from up to
down, until you reach the end of
the line of running stitches.
2. Bring the needle up through the
6. Change back to the chenille needle
fabric at A. Remove the chenille
needle and re-thread with a
tapestry (blunt point) needle.
at the end of the line and bring the
decorative thread back through the
fabric. Tie off on the wrong side of
the fabric.
3. Pass the tapestry needle from A to
B (down) under the first running
stitch without piercing either the
fabric or the thread.
4. Pass from C to D (up) under the
second running stitch, still without
piercing fabric or thread.
Note: Chenille needles have a sharp
point and are used to pierce the fabric
at the beginning and end of a stitch;
tapestry needles have a blunt point and
make it easy for you to weave, wrap,
and interlace your fancy threads without
accidentally piercing the base thread or
fabric.
Because the running stitch is
so sparse, any bulky or weighty
decorative thread will totally dominate
the line of stitching. A soft cord like
Very Velvet, by Rainbow Gallery,
worked on a running stitch in a
matching color of floss, will look
almost like a couched cord. A tufted
knitting yarn, like Electra from
Plymouth Yarn™, gives the effect of a
line of little flags flying off the surface
of the fabric. A tight, narrow metallic
like DMC’s Metallic Aqua (using 3
strands together) gives a striped look
of alternating silver and aqua.
how to hand sew using ladder, running, chain stitch, and more
m a t e r i a l s
For the base stitches
•Fabric (stiffened with an iron-on
stabilizer or held taut in a hoop)
•Scissors
•Thimble
•Embroidery needles
•Smooth threads like cotton
embroidery floss or fine perle cotton
in a variety of colors
For the embellishment stitches
•Chenille and tapestry needles
(size 18 to 24)
•Fancy threads – ribbon floss, suede
and velvet cords, metallic ribbons
and braids, eyelash and ribbon yarns
•Heavy-duty needle threader
Q u i lt i n g A r t s . c o m
4
©Interweave
hand sewing for quilters
B
A
learn how to hand sew
A
B
D
D ouble - threaded
A
back stitch
1. Bring the needle up through the
fabric at A (see diagram) and pass
B thread under the
the decorative
back stitches, alternating directions
(down under the first stitch, up
over the second, etc.) until you
come to the end of the line of back
stitches. Work without piercing the
B
fabric.
down before and vice versa, until
you are back at the end of the line
where C
you started.
Note: There are two ways to work the
second line of a double stitch: either
reverse direction at the end of the line, or
tie off and start a new line of decorative
stitching at the beginning. Here I’m
using the U-turn method; the restart
method is illustrated later, on the double
whipped chain stitch.
3. Bring the needle down at B and
tie off.
A
2. Turn the fabric around and work
back in the opposite direction,
again without piercing the fabric.
Thread up where you threadedD
C
A
B
tips
•An eyelash yarn like Lion Brand®
Fun Fur will make a wide, fluffy band
that almost completely obscures the
base stitching. Avalanche, a thick,
soft, silk yarn from Henry’s Attic,
here dyed in fuchsia and lavender,
makes raised loops on either side of
the back stitching, giving an almost
beaded look.
•Fyre Werks® Soft Sheen, a soft,
metalized, nylon thread from
Japan, tucks down between the
back stitches to make a rich line of
alternating metallic copper and light
green floss.
•Try double threading a line of
running stitch (the decorative thread
will be more prominent) or chain
stitch (the base stitches will be
thicker and will show through the
decorative stitching).
The face of the dragon is worked in satin stitch. The wings are Angelina and are outlined with free
buttonholing; the inner lines are raised with single wrapped back stitch. The tail is done with double
threading of gold on green; the claws are double wrapped chain stitch.
how to hand sew using ladder, running, chain stitch, and more
Q u i lt i n g A r t s . c o m
5
©Interweave
E
C
D
B
B
A
hand sewing for quilters
C
B
C
learn how to hand sew
D
B
A
A
B
A
S ingle - whipped B ack S titch
1. Bring needle up at A.
2. Carry the thread over the line ofD
back stitching and bring it up under
the next back stitch.
A
3. Repeat to end of line and close off
by bringing thread down through the
fabric at B.
B A
Note: If worked with any but the
finest of decorative threads, this stitch
tends to create a solid raised line of the
decorative thread, with the back stitch
completely hidden. As shown at left,
B
D ouble - whipped
A
D
B
C
Bernat® Eyelash yarn (a softer yarn
than Lion Brand®
C Fun Fur) makes a A
B A
very bold, slightly
fuzzy line. Rachelette,
a translucent knitted
nylon tube with
B
a metallic strand threaded through the
tube, shows off both the soft nylon casing
and the bright metallic threading in a
smooth, tight line. Precious Metals®
Mini Garland makes a spiky, sparkly
raised line, while Access soft twist
copper blends withA the brown back
stitching to produce the illusion of a
single line of copper stitching.
chain stitch
Try the same whip stitch with running
and chain-stitch lines to see how the
effects can be varied.
C
1. Bring the needle up at A.
Above: As before, the first line of decorative
whipping is shown in the lighter color and the
second in the darker color.
2. Take the thread down over the first
A and back up under the
chain stitch
second stitch.
B
3. Go down over the second stitch
and up under the third.
4. Continue this over-and-under
D
C
B
motion untilA you reach the end of
the chain at B; bring the needle
through the fabric, tie off and cut
the thread.
5. Now bring the needle up at C,
passing the thread up over the first
chain stitch and down under the
second chain stitch.
6. Continue to the end of the chain.
7. Bring the needle down at D and tie
off and cut the thread.
Note: As shown at left, with a thin,
tight metallic thread, such as two
strands of DMC Metallic Silver, the
chain stitch remains visible and the
X pattern shows up clearly. A fuzzy
thread like Angora blurs all the stitching
together and creates a solid raised line.
A “ladder” knitting yarn like SRK’s
Ranee, with short colored “rungs” of
bright silky floss, turns each rung into
a brightly colored bobble on one side or
the other of the base chain; the double
whipping here completely covers the
chain stitch.
how to hand sew using ladder, running, chain stitch, and more
Q u i lt i n g A r t s . c o m
6
©Interweave
hand sewing for quilters
learn how to hand sew
F ree B uttonhole
S titch
The buttonhole stitch can be worked
over a line of back or chain stitch
without piercing the fabric except at
the beginning and end of the line.
A heavy, smooth thread is desirable
here to show off the raised line typical
of this stitch; with fuzzy threads the
structure of the stitch disappears,
while with tight metallic threads the
underlying base stitch may show
through, destroying the illusion of the
unbroken raised line of stitching.
the working thread. The fabric is
never pierced after coming up at
A. You are looping around the base
stitch...almost wrapping the base
stitches.
A, above and at the end of the base
stitching.
2. Loop the thread to your left. Bring
it down over the base line and then
up under the base line and over
A
A
C
B
A
3. Repeat until the first stitch of the
base stitching is fully covered,
then move on to the next stitch,
continuing along until the row is
completed.
1. Bring the needle and thread up at
C
B
C
B
A
A
Note: If you use a soft, expandable
thread and pack the decorative stitches
tightly, the result should look like an
unbroken line of buttonhole stitching
raised above the surface of the work.
E
D
A
E
D
A
C
B
C
B
D
W oven
bars
This stitch and the one following are
worked over a base of short stitches
laid down as a line of bars, about
1
⁄4" apart and as wide as necessary to
A A
contain the embellishing yarns; 3⁄8"
is a good average, but for a woven bar
using a wide yarn you may need bars
up to 3⁄4" long.
Woven bars are one of the simplest
and easiest ways to fill a line of bar
A A
stitches, and a great way to showcase
wide, flat ribbons or metallic braids
that don’t show well when twisted and
looped.
1. Bring your thread up at one end of
the line of bars, at A.
D
D
2. Weave over the first bar, under the
A
B
BA
second, and so on until the end of
the line is reached and you bring the
thread down at B.
B
3. Bring it up again at C and weave
C
back, reversing the order. If your first
thread went over the last bar, as in the
AB A
diagram, it should go under itBnow
and over the next one.
C
B
4. Continue weaving back to the
beginning of the row and bring your
needle down through the fabric at D.
B AB upAagain at E and continue
5. Come
for as many rows as it takes to fill the
line of bars.
A
D
A
how to hand sew using ladder, running, chain stitch, and more
B
B
Q u i lt i n g A r t s . c o m
7
©Interweave
hand sewing for quilters
learn how to hand sew
R aised C hain B and
This simple weave is a great way to
showcase a bright, ribbon knitting
yarn or a stiff, flat metallic braid like
Fyre Werks® Holographic Ribbon.
1. Work a row of bars as a base, but
make them shorter than for the woven
band,
A otherwise you risk pulling them
out of shape as you work the chain.
A
2. Bring the thread up at A, just below
the first bar.
3. Loop over that first bar and bring
the thread under it without piercing
the fabric.
4. Bring the thread up to the right of A
and make a wide loop above the first A
bar, coming down over the bar at B.
5. Bring the thread up under the bar
between B and A, and over its own
loop at C.
C
B
C
B
E
D
A
E
D
A
C
B
C
B
D
B
A
B
A
A
6. Draw the thread snug but not too
tight and you will have completed one
A
raised chain stitch.
E
7. Repeat the stitch
C over each
D bar until
A
B
A
you come to the end, then finish the
band by bringing the thread down at
D and tying off.
This is such a beautifully structured,
braid-like stitch that it would be a pity
to obscure the structure byBworking
A it
with a fuzzy thread. Instead, try a tight
cord like Coronet over black floss
bars, or a Kreinik metallic braid over
A
bars worked
in a coordinating color of
floss.
D
Margaret Ball is an occasional
D
novelist, full-time bead and fiber
artist, who is working on second bead
embroidery book. VisitBher website:
flameweaver.com.
A
B
C
B
B
A
B
A
D
The ribbon-woven
yarn I used in the
D
sample is Lion Brand® Incredible,
which is a relatively inexpensive, widely
available, smooth, multi-hued yarn.
It’s available in many fabric and craft
stores and can be ordered online.
Some other yarns
C that would work are
Berocco®’s Yoga, Louisa Harding’s
Kimono Ribbon, and Lang’s Lido. The
C
problem with all these names is that
B A
yarn fashions are extremely volatile—
they appear and disappear quickly—so
B I Aused may not be available
the ones
when you go to the yarn shop. I
suggest you just pick up what’s in stock
now and buy as much as you think
you’ll need.
The running stitch, back stitch, and
chain stitch can all be used as a
base for threading an exotic yarn or
thread through the line of stitching
A it over the stitches in the
or whipping
base line.
A
B
A
B
C
A
B
A
C
C
how to hand sew using ladder, running, chain stitch, and more
B
B
A
A
Q u i lt i n g A r t s . c o m
A
8
©Interweave
hand sewing for quilters
learn how to hand sew
spectrum
the running stitch
Adapted from
Quilting Arts Magazine
Summer 2005
Q
uilters and embroiderers alike enjoy a passion for cloth, stitch, and invariably color. It is so often the
luminosity of fabric surfaces and color that attract us all when confronted by an array of fabrics and
threads. We hoard and cherish little bundles of brightly colored cloth, favorite ribbons, bright and shiny silks.
But it is all too easy to hold onto these treasures, never to have the courage to use or work with them in case
they are a Pandora’s Box that will overtake us and get out of control!
by J ulia
C aprara
how to hand sew using ladder, running, chain stitch, and more
Q u i lt i n g A r t s . c o m
9
©Interweave
hand sewing for quilters
learn how to hand sew
Open the lid of the Box of Delights
and come with me! Explore the story
of a glimpse into a world of color
and stitch that offers such infinite
possibilities and opportunities.
You will only need a sewing needle,
lots of different colored fine threads
such as cotton or silk twists, some
brightly colored scraps of silk or fine
cotton fabrics, a pair of embroidery
scissors, an open mind, and an
inquisitive eye.
Above: “Goddess Cloth - Aegean Goddess” — running stitches in brilliant colors leap through
various cottons and silks.
Left: “Goddess Cloth - Triple Goddess” — Fabric pieces sewn with running stitches; displayed as
three separate but united wall hangings. (See detail previous page.)
On the run
Let’s take the running stitch, plus
the world of color, and see where the
adventure will take us.
The running stitch is exactly that, a
stitch “on the run.” Originally worked
to darn runs in knitted and woven
textiles, it rapidly became a way for
creating decorative patterns and
borders for clothing. Nowadays it is
one of the most versatile and exciting
stitches for embroiderers and quilters
to work with.
One of the simplest stitches, the
running stitch creates a rhythmic
way for altering or changing cloth.
It can gather or pleat fine fabrics
when pulled or under tension. It can
“draw” fast, creating outlines of forms
and shapes. Worked on different
weights of fabrics, a running stitch
can make a delicate, fragile fabric such
as chiffon or organza become even
more ethereal. And when used on
heavy, felted wool, this versatile stitch
can create richly embellished and
encrusted colored surfaces.
how to hand sew using ladder, running, chain stitch, and more
Q u i lt i n g A r t s . c o m
10
©Interweave
hand sewing for quilters
learn how to hand sew
“Sun Over Water” — Stitches were
worked in one direction and in varying
lengths using wools, fabric strips, chiffons,
and threads creating an almost painterly
surface.
I first started on this extraordinary
journey by giving myself permission
to work with something I didn’t
know would work. I said to myself,
What would happen if…I tried only
working with a running stitch and
the pure colors of the spectrum: red,
orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo,
and violet? Or, what would happen
if…I only worked with pale tints of
color, or colors that belonged to the
quieter tones of blues and mauves,
but worked them on a bright colored
background?
My first experiments were made on
an open-weave linen and silk-weave
fabric that enabled me to darn or run
all kinds of threads, ribbons, and
fabric strips through the background.
I found that by working the stitches
in only one direction, but varying the
length of the stitch and the weight
or thickness of the threads, it was
possible to create an almost painterly
surface.
Try running lines of stitches, in
different threads and colors across
each other and you will be amazed
and delighted with the color mixtures
you obtain. Also try working it on
the slant, or move it in circles on
the cloth. This expressive stitch can
become your paintbrush, enabling
you to grow the most unexpected and
extraordinary colored textile surfaces.
The next challenge I set for myself was
more difficult. What would happen
if I tried working with the spectrum
as my color palette, but only stitched
with fine threads, such as cotton or a
fine strand of silk, and I only stitched
into fine silk or cotton fabrics as a
background?
how to hand sew using ladder, running, chain stitch, and more
Q u i lt i n g A r t s . c o m
11
©Interweave
hand sewing for quilters
This was a revelation! Until this point
I had always worked on a whole cloth
background and composed my ideas
as I stitched, and until now had always
regarded myself as an embroiderer. I
challenged myself to alter a very small
scrap of fabric with running stitches
in multiple colors. As I worked the
next small scrap, and the next, I found
myself patching and piecing, growing
a cloth in much the same way that
my great-grandmother had patched
and pieced precious scraps of cloth to
make family quilts and coverlets many
years ago. I found that my darning
stitches could not only embellish and
change the surface and patterns of
the background cloth, but they would
t h e c o l o r
s p e c t r u m
Getting to know the color spectrum is
easy. Keep your rules simple and your
materials straightforward.
Try:
•Exploring overlays of spectrum colors
(red, orange, yellow, green, blue,
and indigo) in fine threads to create a
different color mix when seen from a
distance.
learn how to hand sew
Above: Detail of “Light Over Water” — On an open-weave fabric, stitches were worked in one
direction using lighter shades of fabrics and threads.
Below: Red, yellow, blue, and purple stitches worked on green felt; circular and square designs
maintain a rhythmic sequence.
•Working with complementary colors
(colors opposite each other on the
color wheel). For example, stitch with
yellow threads on a mauve or violet
background.
•Working with soft muted
tertiary colors—the color
achieved with paint
when opposite colors
are mixed together, such
as red and green, violet
and yellow, or blue and
orange.
how to hand sew using ladder, running, chain stitch, and more
Q u i lt i n g A r t s . c o m
12
©Interweave
hand sewing for quilters
learn how to hand sew
also be wonderful stitches for darning
and sewing these fragments together.
I could add in all kinds of treasures,
small rolls of cloth, nuggets of threads
stitched in, even beads, twigs, and
sticks. In other words, I could make a
new cloth from scratch.
Now my treasure box was filled with
very different materials from the
palette of knitting yarns I had used
before. I hunted in remnant shops
for bright, colorful muslins, visited
wonderful Asian emporia for brilliant
turban cottons, sari silks, and scarves.
My thread basket became filled
with finer weight threads and silks,
glistening jewel-like colors, plastic
threads, and more unusual yarns such
as colored nylon fishing line.
try this
• Use a bright yellow thread and
make huge running stitches in
parallel rows across a dark crimson
silk organza.
• Use a fragment of an old blue silk
sari and only work with shades of
red threads.
• Use materials that are the colors of
autumn, and stitch with autumn
colors, blacks and greys, bronze
and gold threads, and copper wires.
I found that my Pandora’s magic box
had become a whole new world of
color, one that would always be full
and overflowing with ideas.
To work creatively and expressively
with color and stitch, you need to be
prepared to explore, experiment, and
try the unexpected. Come with me
now and take the risk.
Above: “Poseidon’s Wedding Carpet” — A
wall hanging with pieced and patched fabrics,
running stitches, and found objects from the
seashore.
Right: Running stitches in yellow, red, and blue
threads overlaid many times to create a rich
mix of color.
how to hand sew using ladder, running, chain stitch, and more
Q u i lt i n g A r t s . c o m
13
©Interweave
hand sewing for quilters
n e v e r …
…make your thread length longer than
the distance between your hand and
your elbow.
…work with the same colored thread
twice running.
…take out a stitch or thread.
…be afraid of overlaying colors to the
point that you have lost your first color.
…be afraid of trying something new
or taking a risk. Just when you think
that you have made chaos, you will
be certain to find that chink of light,
that one glimpse of something that
is uniquely your own, and with it a
method to repeat your results until you
have turned it into your true voice.
Running stitch drawing using overlaid colored
crayons.
learn how to hand sew
Gathering inspiration
Try some experiments in a sketchbook
with colored drawing pencils using
lines that look like running stitches.
When explored quickly in this way
it is possible to mix an extraordinary
range of colors.
Begin to look for your own color
language wherever you go and collect
them in a book, make your own
drawings and/or attach scraps of
paper, cloth, and thread to the pages.
Observe how nature quite often uses
primary and secondary colors together
in plants, such as red berries and
bright green leaves, or orange flowers
with the softer blue-green stems and
foliage. The French Impressionist
artists all worked with a high-pitched
color palette, moving small blobs and
marks of color across each other to
create a sense of luminosity and light.
Stitch will create this effect too, and
by overlaying fine lines of spectrum
hues across each other it is possible to
create a radiant and vibrating sense of
luminous light.
Try working systematically through
the color palette of the spectrum.
why not …
…experiment to see what red, green,
(etc.) do to a bright green fabric.
…use more or less of one color than
another.
…leave more of the ground fabric
showing.
…work your running stitches to cover
more of the ground fabric.
Stitching will always change the top
surface of your fabric, but overlay
several different layers of more
transparent-colored fabrics, and your
palette of color will change even more.
Running stitches can be threaded
through one another and with
different threads, creating a weavelike effect. I invite you to take up
your needle, gather some pieces of
solid, brightly colored fine cotton or
silk fabrics and a variety of different
threads in spectrum hues, and begin
to stitch.
Julia Caprara was a teacher, author,
and visionary known to many as the
creator of cutting edge creative textiles
characterized by vibrant color and an
innovative use of materials. She passed
away in 2008. For more information,
visit: jctextilearts.com.
how to hand sew using ladder, running, chain stitch, and more
Q u i lt i n g A r t s . c o m
14
©Interweave
hand sewing for quilters
learn how to hand sew
Ladder Stitch sampler
i
prefer to use simple stitches in
my work. Stitches that are easy
to carry out yet have the ability to
look completely different when
executed with different weights
of thread, different fibers, and
different fabrics. In general, the
ladder stitch is used to couch
down cords, ribbon, or braids. It
can also be used for filling long,
narrow shapes.
A sampler is a wonderful way to
show off a favorite stitch, and by
producing several samplers of the
same stitch using different colors and
types of threads, you could actually
m a t e r i a l s
•A piece of wool felt
•100 percent cotton fabric of various
colors and patterns
•Sewing machine
•Embroidery floss of varying
thicknesses
•Beads
•Silk ribbon
•Needles with eyes large enough for
threads
by
B eryl T aylor
Adapted from
Quilting Arts Magazine
Fall 2006
how to hand sew using ladder, running, chain stitch, and more
•Beading needle
•Scissors
Q u i lt i n g A r t s . c o m
15
©Interweave
hand sewing for quilters
incorporate them into one large piece;
I would imagine about 20 squares
would make a great wall hanging.
In this sampler piece, I wanted to
accentuate the strips of fabric so I
couched over them with the ladder
stitch (also known as open chain
stitch).
directions
for panel
1. Cut or tear strips of cotton fabric
approximately 5⁄8" wide.
2. Machine-stitch onto felt panel at
learn how to hand sew
3. As the needle emerges it is passed
through a loop created in the
thread by the left thumb. The
loop is kept loose so that as the
needle is taken across the fabric
strip in a straight line, the second
repeat stitch is made by placing
the needle through the loop again
before sliding it through the fabric.
Beryl Taylor is a mixed-media fiber
artist, teacher, author, and host of two
Quilting Arts Workshop™ videos in
which she shares her techniques. Visit
her website: beryltaylor.com.
4. Repeat the stitch as needed (until
the piece is couched in place).
5. On the last stitch of the row, tie
down by making a small straight
stitch in each corner.
11⁄4" intervals.
3. Wash felt panel in washing
machine on hot to shrink the felt.
Dry in a tumble dryer.
4. When dry, embellish between the
cotton strips with beads and fly
stitching.
5. Hand-stitch the cotton strips with
A
C
B
the ladder stitch using different
ribbons and threads.
directions for
ladder stitch
Always work this stitch in a
downward direction.
1. Start at the back of the fabric
and bring the needle and
thread through from the back to
the front.
2. Stitch over the fabric strip from
left to right in a straight line
and then slide the needle and
thread from front to back and then
back through to the front in a
down­ward diagonal movement so
that the needle emerges at a point
directly below the point at which
the stitching started.
how to hand sew using ladder, running, chain stitch, and more
Q u i lt i n g A r t s . c o m
16
©Interweave
hand sewing for quilters
power
T
hand transforms a quilt.
The simple stitches of hand
embroidery can take a flat,
uninteresting quilt top and
bring the quilt surface to life. It’s
butterfly.
to the
Adapted from
Quilting Arts Magazine
February/March 2009
hand stitcher
his I believe: a stitch by
like going from a cocoon to a
learn how to hand sew
by
L aura W asilowski
Hand stitches add color, texture,
and pattern to the surface of small
art quilts. They form detailed marks
that cannot be made with fabric. The
embroidered stitch also helps define
fabric shapes, provides a focal point,
and most importantly, draws the
viewer closer.
F our B ackgrounds
for S titching
There are four basic ways I use
hand stitching to enhance quilt
tops: place stitches on geometric
pieced backgrounds; add them to
a wholecloth quilt without any
machine stitching; place them
on a fused composition and add
machine stitching later; or put
hand stitches on a completed,
machine-stitched quilt.
Geometric background shapes
are ideal for practicing a variety
of stitches (see “Random Acts
of Piecing #12”). Choose a basic
book of embroidery stitches,
such as Elegant Stitches by
Judith Baker Montano, and
follow the stitch directions page
Left: “Random Acts of Piecing #12”
• 101⁄2" × 111⁄2"
Below: “Random Acts of Piecing #4”
• 12" × 13"
how to hand sew using ladder, running, chain stitch, and more
Q u i lt i n g A r t s . c o m
17
©Interweave
hand sewing for quilters
learn how to hand sew
by page. As each pieced rectangle is
m a t e r i a l s
•A fused quilt top
•Fusible batting
•Variegated, cotton embroidery
thread, size-8 or -12
•Long-eyed embroidery needle,
size to correspond with thread size
(In hand needles, the smaller the
number size the larger the needle
diameter. Use a size-3 with size-8
thread and a size-5 with size-12
thread.)
Optional
•Embroidery hoop
•Quilter’s pencil
•Thimble
filled in, you are reminded of stitch
names, variations, and their visual
impact.
In “Blue Chair at the Window,” the
needle and thread work as drawing
implements. The hand stitches do all
the work in creating the room setting
for the chair.
“Blue Chair at the Window” • 7" × 91⁄2"
The chair shape (made with a hand-carved stamp)
is stamped onto a plain background fabric. Stem
stitches outline the chair, define the window frame, and
delineate the division between wall and floor. Cross
stitches pattern the floor and seed stitches texture the
walls. The woven stitches found in the antimacassar
add detail and draw the eye to the focal point, the chair.
how to hand sew using ladder, running, chain stitch, and more
Q u i lt i n g A r t s . c o m
18
©Interweave
hand sewing for quilters
The power of the stitch is best seen in
“Joyful Heart #21” (above). A simple
heart is fused onto a plain background
fabric, and free-motion machine
stitches form canals of thread, guiding
learn how to hand sew
the placement of the embroidery
stitches. This random hand stitching
adds pattern, texture, and color, and
converts a plain quilt top into a little
gem.
how to hand sew using ladder, running, chain stitch, and more
“Joyful Heart #21” • 9" × 10"
Q u i lt i n g A r t s . c o m
19
©Interweave
hand sewing for quilters
learn how to hand sew
Above: The backing of “Blue Chair at the
Window” was added after the embroidery was
complete. No stitches show through on the fused
back.
R andom A cts
of S titching
Improvisational embroidery is
stitching without a plan, without a
pattern or drawing to follow. Stitch
choices and placement are designed
as you go, with one stitch building on
another. It’s a heady, reckless feeling
to stitch without a plan, but that’s the
thrill of handwork and why so many
stitchers have a gleam in their eye,
including me.
Note: The color of my hand-dyed
variegated threads changes every 3"
or less. This keeps the stitch color
interesting without having to change
threads for different colors.
Directions
1. Steam set your fused quilt top to
the non-scrim side of the batting
before adding handwork (fusing to
the scrim may ripple the quilt).
“Joyful Heart #22” • 83⁄4" × 113⁄4"
2. Knot or imbed a maximum 18"
strand of thread in the back of the
quilt and bring the needle and
thread to the top of the quilt to
begin stitching. Stitch only through
the batting and quilt top layers. It
is one less layer to stitch through
and you can hide all your stitching
mess when you add the backing
(see the back of “Blue Chair at the
Window,” above left).
Note: For me, an embroidery hoop only
hampers my freedom to stitch, but use
one if you are comfortable using one. A
thimble saves fingertips and also looks
really cool!
3. Mark the areas to be stitched with
a quilter’s pencil, or stitch freely
without following lines.
Placement of stitches is dictated by the
shapes on your quilt top. Start with
the easy stitches you know; use them
how to hand sew using ladder, running, chain stitch, and more
Q u i lt i n g A r t s . c o m
20
©Interweave
hand sewing for quilters
‘N ew L ife ’
S titchery
A
Tip: To gauge the length or the curve of
a stitch line on an open field of fabric,
draw that line with the tip of the needle
and then follow the crease in the fabric.
A
A
separately or in combination
with other stitches. The
running stitch leads the eye
around the quilt top. Back
stitches or stem stitches outline
and define fabric shapes. Crossstitches build pattern. French
knots add dynamic hits of color
and texture that attract the
eye and are often mistaken for
beads.
learn how to hand sew
A
A
A
French knot
Stem stitch
Cross stitch
Running stitch
through
Another benefit to adding hand
stitching to a quilt top is that it can
revive old work. Having documented
the transformation of a piece from
“before embroidery” to “after
embroidery,” I can confirm there is a
marked change in the vitality of the
piece. Hand stitching adds vigor and
spark, texture and pattern, to a quilt
top and rescues it from obscurity. It
also invites the observer to step closer
to the work to share the beauty of the
embroidered stitch. And, maybe, they
too will be as captivated by the joy
and the power of the hand stitch as I
am.
Laura Wasilowski is a quilt artist,
instructor, lecturer, dyer, and author of
fun, fast, fearless fusing books. Visit her
website: artfabrik.com.
“Coleen’s Calling Birds #9” • 113⁄4" × 131⁄4"
This fused quilt composition was steam set to batting. The stitching is just through the batting and
top layer of the quilt; red French knots were added to the leaves for hits of color. The bird became
the focal point with the addition of running stitches to pattern the wing, back stitches to outline the
wing, and lazy daisy stitches and French knots to create his coronet. Once the handwork was done,
the backing was put on the quilt; machine stitching fills in the background, adding subtle pattern
and texture.
how to hand sew using ladder, running, chain stitch, and more
Q u i lt i n g A r t s . c o m
21
©Interweave