new york food review

NEW
YORK
FOOD
REVIEW
Highlighting Food, Service, Operations & Equipment
Recognizing and sharing the meticulous achievements and successes found in
Restaurants, Hotels, Corporate, University and Healthcare Dining Facilities
NOVEMBER 2012
NEW YORK FOOD REVIEW
NEW YORK, NY 10118
NEW YORK’S
NOBU FIFTY SEVEN
WHAT’S NEW AND HOT
WALDORF ASTORIA
NEW YORK
APPROACHING A CENTURY
OF CONTINUED SUCCESS
Peacock Alley
Waldorf Astoria New York
on page 3
on page 5
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NEW
YORK
FOOD
REVIEW
Highlighting Food, Service, Operations & Equipment
NOVEMBER 2012
FEATURING
3 Highlighting NYC Icon Waldorf-­Astoria’s Hotel Dining
5 Highlighting NOBU 57 Restaurant
Dining and their Success
IN THE NEWS
9 ABC Grading System Cutting LQWR5HVWDXUDQW3UR¿WV
22 New York City Soda Ban
MONTHLY COLUMNS
11 The Leader Within
16 Focus On Service
19 Focus On Marketing
21 Focus On Equipment
NEXT MONTH’S ISSUE FEATURING
-­ Challenges of a Kosher Kitchen -­ University & Healthcare Dining Services
2 NEW YORK FOOD REVIEW
NOVEMBER 2012
New York Food Review
Empire State Building
350 Fifth Avenue
59th Floor
New York, New York 10118
Ph/Fx: (212) 609-­2798
www.nyfoodreview.info
Newsroom
[email protected]
Editor/Writer
Perry Edwards
Editor/Writer
John Doherty
Editor/Writer
Eric Weiss
Editor/Writer
Ed Daniels
Art Department
Charles Walsh, Director
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Sally Williams, Director
*All information herein shall be considered editorial and opinion. As code, procedures and equipment are changing regularly and rapidly,
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member cannot be held responsible for content. &RQVLGHU DOO LQIRUPDWLRQ XQYHUL¿HG IRU WKH
purpose of narrative entertainment and guide-­
line information.
FEATURING
Business Model Of Success: Waldorf Astoria New York
Foodservice accomplishments at the Waldorf Astoria New York
I
n an attempt to discover what goes into their longstanding VXFFHVV,ZHQWEHKLQGWKHVFHQHVDWRQHRIWKHZRUOG¶V¿QHVW
hotels, the renowned Waldorf Astoria New York. Occupying an entire city block between Park and Lexington Avenues and 49th and 50th Streets, the Waldorf Astoria New York is in a premiere location, within walking distance to Rockefeller Center, St. Pat-­
rick’s Cathedral, the theatre district, and the best shopping and art galleries Manhattan has to offer. In 1932, Conrad N. Hilton wrote, “The Greatest of Them All” on a photograph of the Waldorf Astoria New York. It was his dream to own the hotel and, in 1949, that dream became reality. Hilton added the Waldorf Astoria New York to his prestigious port-­
folio of hotels and, in doing so, added his version of “the light and warmth of hospi-­
tality” to the legendary New York landmark. $V RQH RI WKH ¿UVW JUDQG
hotels to combine elegance with luxurious amenities and services, the Waldorf Astoria New York has been world famous for over a century. Guests enjoy top rate service, spacious suites, oversized marble bathrooms, origi-­
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place that made the “Waldorf Salad” famous and is claimed to be where red velvet cake originated. The Waldorf Astoria New York stands as a unique dining destination with three different restaurants, a slew of grand ban-­
quet halls, and 24 hour room service. Amongst their additional lounges, there are over 40 more rooms capable of hosting different catered affairs. The around the clock room service available to over 1400 guest rooms provides the food qual-­
ity and presentation equivalent to what you would receive GXULQJ WKHLU SULPH ¿QH GLQLQJ
hours. I sat down with the man responsible for overseeing this daunting task, the Executive Chef of the Waldorf Astoria continues on page 4
NOVEMBER 2012 NEW
YORK FOOD REVIEW 3
Waldorf Astoria New York... continues from page 3
New York, David Garcelon. “With over a century of history and the expectation of elegance and per-­
fection, I want every minute of my guests’ experi-­
ence here at the Waldorf Astoria New York to be unique and special,” he says. Garcelon studied at the Culinary Institute of Canada and Cornell Uni-­
versity School of Hotel Administration and has almost 20 years of experience with facilities like Toronto’s Fairmont Royal York and the two luxuri-­
ous Fairmonts in Bermuda. When I asked him how he could have possibly left the Bermuda beachfront paradise for the hustle and bustle of New York, Garcelon said he had no doubt in his mind that the Waldorf Astoria New York was an opportunity of a lifetime. The clincher for him was the promise of working closely with Waldorf Astoria New York’s General Manager, Eric Long. “No one knows this industry like Eric Long;; he’s a great leader,” said Garcelon. Long is a 30 year veteran of the Hilton organization with approximately 20 years spent at Waldorf-­Astoria of New York, Executive Chef David Garcelon and a few of his extraordinary staff.
the Waldorf Astoria New York. Long and the Hilton organization are always reinvesting and reinventing the facility with aesthetic upgrades having a large facility at the Waldorf provides an advantage or DQGLQIUDVWUXFWXUHZKLOHVWLOOUHVSHFWLQJLWVKLVWRULFVW\OHDQGÀXLG
disadvantage. Garcelon has enjoyed working in both single experience of the hotel guest. There are three distinct locations kitchen and multi-­kitchen facilities. At the Waldorf Astoria New within the building-­ each operating without intruding on the oth-­
York, there are eight kitchens, a pastry kitchen and a butcher shop. er-­ providing a sense of privacy and exclusivity. The facilities Redundancy of equipment typically helps with the stress of out-­
offer a client the ability to enjoy a larger “luxury” experience or ages or equipment not working properly. Even so, serving over a smaller, intimate social/business gathering. 600,000 meals a year requires all engines to be running perfectly. Taking into consideration the required high standards from Not only that, but these eight kitchens are spread out across the Department of Health, Fire Marshals, Parks Departments, His-­
entire city block that the Waldorf occupies, not to mention that torical Societies, EPA, secret service and other diplomatic visi-­
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tors combined with a struggling economy, I am curious whether ing as he described how, depending where you are, it could take ten minutes to grab a cup of sugar. Scheduling, procedures, and deliveries are important to time properly, as a staff member may be gone for nearly twenty minutes simply taking out the garbage. However, when coordinated properly, the redundancy and avail-­
ability of specialty equipment make nearly anything possible for a talented and creative chef. It is imperative to update equipment and have service con-­
tracts in place. Despite the redundancy of equipment, replacing appliances before failure and staying abreast of new technolo-­
gies is essential. The Waldorf Astoria New York has had sev-­
eral new JADE Equipment Ranges recently installed and have combi-­ovens coming soon that allow for regular heat and steam in the same machine while being completely programmable. A QHZ &+$03,21 GLVK PDFKLQH VDQLWL]HV ZLWK VSHHG DQG HI¿-­
ciency. They also have a new MONTAGUE oven. Other equip-­
ment that they work with on a regular basis are: over 30 ovens from GARLAND, BAXTER, SOUTHBEND and BLODGETT;; kettles from GROEN and LEGION;; braising pans from GROEN, CLEVELAND;; salamanders from JADE and GARLAND;; fryers from PITCO and KEATING;; choppers and food processors from ROBOT COUPE;; mixers from ROBOT COUPE, HOBART and KITCHEN AID;; slicers from BERKEL, HOBART;; warm-­
ers from ALTO-­SHAMM, CARTER-­HOFFMAN, CRESCORE;; The famous Waldorf Salad
continues on page 17
4 NEW YORK FOOD REVIEW
NOVEMBER 2012
FEATURING
What’s Hot, Staying Hot And How -­ A Look At NOBU FIFTY SEVEN
I had the enormous honor of interviewing and discussing management, operations, suppliers and equipment with New York City’s Nobu Fifty Seven Executive Chef Matt Hoyle and Back of House Manager Wil Wever. Not being a typical consumer magazine, our focus is on op-­
erations rather than extraordinary food. Although, I would be remiss if I ignored the delectable dishes, their artistic presenta-­
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a few items that I felt obligated to try.
Both Hoyle and Wever are extremely friendly and humble, especially considering they run one of the most prestigious res-­
taurants in the world. Wever, for example, had no real answer when I tried to clarify his business title. Based on his work description and responsibilities I took it upon myself to ordain him the Facilitator and Equipment Manager.
Nobuyuki Matsuhisa, better known as “Nobu,” is probably the most famous Japanese Chef in the world. Nobu’s style is based on traditional Japanese cuisine mixed with diverse cu-­
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Tokyo in 1949, Nobu began his career at the age of 17 as an apprentice Itamae-­Sushi Chef, and continued to work in Tokyo for several years. He left for Peru in 1972 to open the highly regarded Sushi restaurant in Lima. From there, Nobu traveled to Argentina in 1974, then back to Japan.
After returning to Japan, the opportunity to partner with a successful local celebrity presented itself and, together, they formed a business plan. Armed with Nobu’s notoriety, cuisine, WKH SDUWQHUVKLS ZLWK FHOHEULW\ VWDWXV DQG ¿QDQFLDO EDFNLQJ D
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stopover between the United States and Asia. Despite the stress of Nobu’s large investment weighing on his shoulders, the res-­
taurant’s success was promising to yield a return on investment. Unfortunately, during one of the rare nights that Chef Nobu was QRWDWWKHUHVWDXUDQWDWUDJLF¿UHEXUQHGWKHHQWLUHUHVWDXUDQWWRWKH
ground. With large debts to pay on his ruined Alaska heartbreak, Nobu went to Los Angeles in 1978, taking a job at a sushi bar, and using his income to make good on his commitments. Nine \HDUV ODWHU DIWHU UHJDLQLQJ KLV ¿QDQFLDO IRRWLQJ KH RSHQHG KLV
own restaurant Matsuhisa in Beverly Hills in 1987. Matsuhisa’s menu featured a fearless combination of traditional Japanese techniques and ingredients from South America and became a critically acclaimed, roaring success. Chef Nobu met actor/businessman Robert De Niro, who urged Nobu to take his unique culinary style to New York. He then teamed up with De Niro and Tribeca Grill’s Drew Nieporent to open Nobu New York in 1994. 7KLVYHQXHZDV\HWDQRWKHUFULWLFDODQG¿QDQFLDOVXFFHVV,W
continues to pack full-­houses, attract celebrities and garner excel-­
lent reviews. The continued success led to opening Nobu Fifty Seven.
Chef Matt Hoyle is in continuous touch with both Chef Nobu and General Manager Leong Loh in person and by teleconference regularly. Chef Hoyle shares similar grass roots culinary back-­
continues on page 6
NOVEMBER 2012 NEW
YORK FOOD REVIEW 5
What’s Hot, Staying Hot and How -­ Nobu Fifty Seven... continues from page 5
ground as Chef Nobu, but in a different hemisphere. Born in a small town north of Manchester, he took a less formal route and learned the culinary business in a hands-­on manner;; he started his ca-­
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in Northern England and from there, cooked his way throughout England and Europe. Dutch born and raised in Aruba, BOH Manager Nobu Fifty Seven Executive Chef Wil Wever, studied Cu-­
Matt Hoyle
linary Arts in Fort Lau-­
derdale, then studied Hospitality Management in Miami with a minor in Restaurant Management. He learned French cooking from his grandmother who was an amazing chef, but was not a chef by profession, then worked in Volterra Italy. Upon his return to Miami he met Howard Kuo, former General Manager of Nobu Miami and Thomas Buckley, Executive Chef of Nobu Miami and was hired as a Back of House Coordinator for Nobu Miami. A short while later he was promoted to Back of House Manager for Nobu Miami. Wever joined Nobu Fifty Seven while at its infancy in the de-­
sign phase and now uses his management skills in the operations, engineering, maintenance and sanitization departments. Wever coordinates with the cooking staff to ensure equipment is up and running at full steam way before opening. The day starts at 5:30am, with the initial prep chef doing his walk-­through, check-­
ing temperatures on refrigeration units and dish machines. The second walk-­through is performed by the managers who check HTXLSPHQWUHSHDWWHPSHUDWXUHFKHFNVDQGGRFORVHTXDUWHUÀDVK-­
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maintenance issues, tagged number codes have been placed on all pieces of equipment in coordination with their outsourced maintenance company. Both Will Wever and his assistant, Rom-­
mel Torres, are the lead contacts for maintenance coordination. They then notify their service company, plumber, building engi-­
neer, manufacturer and suppliers as needed. Nobu Fifty Seven also enlists its outsourced maintenance company to initiate a preventive maintenance program on equip-­
ment. Wever does have spare parts, commercial toasters, and some other oven-­related equipment that can be used as needed in storage. As many other facilities have redundant equipment for EDFNXS1REX)LIW\6HYHQKDVWKHPLQLPXP7KHHI¿FLHQWGH-­
sign of Nobu Fifty Seven’s kitchen was done out of necessity, due to the cost of real estate and availability in Manhattan. Wever explains that “redundancy was not an option;; we developed a VPDUW HI¿FLHQW NLWFKHQ EHFDXVH ZH KDG WR´ &KHI +R\OH DOVR
involved in the design, prefers the compact kitchen that allows for easy communication and, although he concedes that it is a Yellow Tail Jalepeno
little tight to move around, he likes that he only needs to move a few steps to get where he needs to go. Most importantly, Hoyle says with a smile, “I like a compact kitchen because I want to see everything…and rent is high.”
When asked about any additional health code concerns and obstacles, Wever chuckles and describes himself as such a “sani-­
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Food Sanitation Consultants and Barbara Kleiner, for one, pro-­
vides us with inspection readiness assistance. Hoyle describes, “Although we have an impeccable record, it’s not easy. In a small shop a missing glove can cost you a few points, but when you have nearly forty people in the back of the house, a few miss-­
ing gloves can cost you two grade letters. So there is no room for error;; gloves, hygiene and code are simply part of our lifestyle.”
In a carefully worded question, I ask how they ensure fresh-­
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delivery system and how they are “so ridiculously busy that we go through product very fast, so nothing is around long enough to get even remotely near expiration.” The question of buying more bulk quantities to save money is not even an issue. Hoyle made me laugh as I assumed he’d say he would never buy bulk be-­
cause he wants to ensure maximum freshness, but instead he said, “I simply don’t have the room.” Their consistent large volume RIWUDI¿FDOVRPDNHVLWHDV\WRSUHGLFWZKDWQHHGVWREHRUGHUHG
without surplus so that nothing sits around very long.
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continues on next page 6 NEW YORK FOOD REVIEW
NOVEMBER 2012
What’s Hot, Staying Hot and How -­ Nobu Fifty Seven... continues from page 6
prefers TRUE WORLD AND APOLLO that he uses regularly. )RUORFDO¿VK52==2)52==2$1'6216LVDOVRDIDYRU-­
ite. JFC MUTUAL and DAIE are used for specialty Japanese ingredients. One of the few meat suppliers that are still in the meatpacking district of New York City is JT JOBBAGY, INC., which Hoyle uses for local meats. When asked who they use for fresh bread, both Hoyle and Wever looked at me and smiled and I immediately remembered that they serve no bread in Nobu Fifty Seven.
Despite Nobu Fifty Seven being operational eighteen hours a day, no worker typically works a full day shift. Once again, Hoyle made me laugh when I asked a leading question regarding the 18 hour day from 5:30am to 1:30am. “So, you don’t overwork people because you want everyone to be fresh, friendly and on their game?” Hoyle replied in his charming James Bond accent with, “No, New York makes us pay employees time and a half for excessive hours.” Hoyle and Wever explained that not only do they keep the hours reasonable compared to other facilities, but they also insist that workers take two days off. Unlike other facilities, Nobu Fifty Seven has a big team that’s KLJKO\TXDOL¿HGDQGWUDLQHGDVVXFKWKH\SD\WKHPDFFRUGLQJO\
“We have a really good team and we’re in constant training mode, not just at the beginning,” said Hoyle. Nobu Fifty Seven has a lengthy training program for front of the house and back of the house. Training includes food knowledge and regular tests, even if someone was an experienced server elsewhere. Nobu’s cuisine is very specialized and is new to people, so training is essential. 7KHUHDUHPDQ\GLIIHUHQWVR\VDXFHV-DSDQHVH¿VK-DSDQHVHVHD-­
soning and even knowing the recommended order of eating dishes LQRUGHUWRH[SHULHQFHWKHIXOOFRPSOHPHQWDU\ÀDYRUVRIWKHPHDO
is taught. From orientation to wine tasting, Wever says that com-­
pared to other restaurants Nobu’s training is very well planned. Hoyle and Wever opened Nobu Fifty Seven in 2005 and many of their staff has been with them since opening. Morale is kept up by the General Manager’s encouraging a family-­like atmosphere that provides a comfortable environment where everybody IHHOVOLNHWKH\¿WLQ*RRGFRPPXQLFDWLRQWDNHVFDUHRIWKHUHVW
“The managers set the tone,” says Hoyle. “We expect a level of professionalism and sort problems out straight away.”
continues on page 24
Matt Hoyle and some of his great team, making plans and regular meetings
keep things running smoothly.
NOVEMBER 2012 NEW YORK FOOD REVIEW 7
WHAT’S NEW, IN FOOD SERVICE EQUIPMENT
Lolo™ Introduces Unique Electric Steamers
L
oLo, the foodservice equipment line known for “low price, low risk and local availability” has raised the bar for steam-­
ers. But don’t just take our word for it–our new electric steamer model has been selected to appear in the What’s Hot! What’s Cool! Gallery at the 2013 NAFEM show! “This is big news for LoLo and our customers,” states Clay 7KDPHV1DWLRQDO6DOHV0DQDJHUIRU/R/R³)RUWKH¿UVWWLPH
operators don’t need to make a choice between speed and energy savings when they buy a steamer. They can get exactly what they need for all-­day, all-­purpose steam cooking all in one steamer–
and that steamer is the new LoLo Electric Steamer. And it’s only from LoLo. To have our new steamer recognized as one of the hot new products by NAFEM is very exciting for us.” The new LoLo Electric Steamer is a multi-­mode steamer that offers operators a high-­performance, a-­la-­carte cooking mode for peak production periods, an energy-­saving batch production mode for prep cycles, and an idle mode for quick recovery–all in one steamer! The new LoLo Electric Steamers deliver produc-­
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combining the best of a-­la-­carte and batch cooking styles! +HUHDUHWKHVSHFL¿FVIRU/R/R¶VWKUHHFRRNPRGHVD³+L
Performance” mode with a higher kW for fast, mixed-­menu, a-­la-­
carte cooking, (2) a batch-­steaming “Energy Saver” setting that H[FHHGV (1(5*< 67$5Š PLQLPXP VWDQGDUGV IRU HI¿FLHQF\
and (3) a “Standby” setting that recovers to cook mode quickly and exceeds ENERGY STAR idle energy rate standards. “When I visit operators around the country, I hear a repeating theme that batch steamers meet only 80% of their needs. Most steamers work well for prep, but for peak lunch and dinner meal periods operators need a ‘fast’ high-­performance a-­la-­cart steam-­
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la-­cart steamer and using that all day. What a waste! Well, LoLo just solved that problem.” Another recurring theme is lower operating costs. “We’re FRQ¿GHQW LQ RXU DELOLW\ WR ORZHU RSHUDWRUV¶ FRVWV ZLWK WKLV QHZ
steamer,” adds Thames. “The initial purchase price of a LoLo Steamer is 10% to 30% below most other brands. We have fewer parts than competitive steamers so maintenance costs are lower. And we offer an attractive total-­lifecycle cost based on energy savings and productivity improvements. Our slogan is ‘Good Deal’ and we prove it every day.” The new LoLo Electric Steamer in 4-­ and 6-­pan models is be-­
ing introduced in October, 2012. Like other LoLo Steamers, the new electric version is easy to learn and use;; it is pressureless and boilerless;; it comes with a strong list of standard features;; and, it is backed by 100+ years of steam manufacturing experience plus a solid warranty. For more information, contact Clay Thames at 601-­371-­6004 or email [email protected]. And, be sure to visit LoLo at the NAFEM show in February 2013, both in the new product gallery and at the LoLo booth, #1035. 8 NEW YORK FOOD REVIEW
NOVEMBER 2012
IN THE NEWS
Grading System -­ Helping or Hurting New York Businesses
I
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n March 2012, Mayor Bloomberg proclaimed that restau-­
rant grades are making the city healthier and wealthier. According to the New York Post, Mayor Bloomberg gleaned from data compiled from the 20 month old cleanliness scor-­
ing system for food establishments that, during the program’s ¿UVW IXOO \HDU LQ VDOPRQHOOD LQIHFWLRQV IHOO WR SHU
100,000, which is the low-­
est rate in 22 years. Addi-­
tionally, he reported that in WKH ¿UVW QLQH PRQWKV VLQFH
restaurateurs had to start displaying their A, B or C ratings, business jumped 9.3 percent or $800 million. “It may just be that clean kitchens are as good for business as clean air is when a restaurant is smoke-­free,” Bloomberg boasted from WKHSRSXODU=HUR2WWR1RYH
restaurant in the Bronx, which has an A grade. The New York State Restaurant Association had a hard time swallowing that assessment. “It is misleading and incorrect to insinuate that restaurant sales are up due to the letter-­grade system,” said Andrew Rigie, the group’s execu-­
tive Vice President. “In fact, even A letter-­grade restaurants DUH VWUXJJOLQJ EHFDXVH RI WKH ¿QHV DQG IHHV DVVRFLDWHG ZLWK
the system.” )LQHVKDYHVXUJHGIURPPLOOLRQLQ¿VFDO\HDU
WR DQ HVWLPDWHG PLOOLRQ E\ WKH HQG RI WKLV ¿VFDO \HDU June 30th. Critics proclaim that, even if, revenue at restaurants may EH XS SHUFHQW VLQFH JUDGLQJ EHJDQ EXW ¿QHV DUH XS percent since 2006. Business owners still ask why we can’t protect public health without shutting down business. Mayor Bloomberg dismisses critics and says, “Their complaints are going to fall on deaf ears, I can tell you that. We’re not going to change.”
-­ from Newsroom
NOVEMBER 2012 NEW
YORK FOOD REVIEW 9
WHAT’S NEW, IN FOOD SERVICE EQUIPMENT
Meiko Bets High On Low-­Temp Dishmachine
kube\CS 70 Brings High MEIKO Standards to the Low-­Temp Industry
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ashville, Tenn. – MEIKO USA Inc. today announced the launch of the kube\CS 70;; a chemical sanitizing, door-­type GLVKPDFKLQH7KH¿UVWRILWVNLQGLQ0(,.2¶VKLVWRU\WKHPD-­
chine is the culmination of years of industry research and feed-­
back from chemical agents, end users and service providers. For over 80 years, MEIKO has earned a reputation as a major player in the high-­temp warewashing arena. The intuitive design, HDVHRIXVHDQGLQGXVWU\OHDGLQJHI¿FLHQF\V\QRQ\PRXVZLWKWKH
MEIKO brand endure with the launch of kube\CS 70. ‡ %XLOW ZLWK D VLQJOHSLHFH RI VWDLQOHVV VWHHO GRRUFRQ-­
struction is the kube’s namesake. A durable, wraparound, cube-­like door eliminates the multi-­piece door guides of other models. ‡ 7KHGLJLWDOFRQWUROSDQHODQGGRVLQJSXPSVDUHPRXQWHGXQ-­
derneath the machine for time-­saving operation, maintenance and chemical agent access. ‡ 7KHPDFKLQHLVFRPSOHWHO\PRGXODUDQGHDVLO\GLVDVVHPEOHG
for quick refurbishing. An experienced service agent can have the entire machine completely disassembled in 15 min-­
utes and the motor removed in less than three. ‡ 7KH NXEH?&6 IHDWXUHV LQWHUFKDQJHDEOH VWDLQOHVV VWHHO
wash/rinse arms easily accessed, removed and replaced without the need for tools. “At 50 percent of the commercial warewashing market, low-­temp is a huge growth opportunity for us;; and it’s ‡ 7KHPDFKLQHLV(QHUJ\6WDUDQG16)UDWHGZLWKDPD[LPXP
also a huge bet,” said David Ciampoli, throughput of 40* racks per hour. Using a mere 1.18 gallons VP of Sales and Marketing. “The kube\CS 70 was developed by of water in a 90 second cycle, the kube\CS 70 is one of the MEIKO engineers across the globe and our folks are famous for PRVWHI¿FLHQWPDFKLQHVRQWKHPDUNHW
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cepts a higher standard in low-­temp, or stays with the status quo.” *Using a user-­selected 72 second cycle, kube\CS 70 has a 7KH NXEH?&6 KDV VHYHUDO LQGXVWU\¿UVWV IRU D ORZWHPS
maximum throughput of 50 racks per hour. ZDUHZDVKHU,QLWVFODVVWKHPDFKLQHRIIHUVWKH¿UVWGLJLWDOIXQF-­
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prime and temperature drain, and ergonomic, bottom-­
mounted controls. The ma-­
chine’s strong tubular frame MEIKO is a world leader in integrated cleaning and disinfection solutions. Globally and lack of door guide strips known for industry-­leading sustainable designs, MEIKO manufacturers commercial ware-­
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washers, waste handlers, tray conveyors and disinfection appliances for the foodservice for low temps. and healthcare industries. MEIKO equipment is fully supported by a technical service About MEIKO
network of over 600 locations, with 24/7 support available by factory-­trained, CEFSA-­
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employees in 21 subsidiaries worldwide. To learn more about MEIKO visit www.meiko.us or call (800) 55–MEIKO. 10 NEW YORK FOOD REVIEW
NOVEMBER 2012
FINDING THE LEADER WITHIN:
Renowned
Chef/Writer/Consultant
John Doherty leads us
through the pressures
of high volume and high
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f guests A Tough Audience
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the leadership lessons that I learned during my time as the Executive Chef of the Waldorf-­Astoria Hotel from 1985-­2009. To say the Waldorf is a challenging place to work is an understate-­
ment. It is a very large and complex building that aspires to oper-­
ate as a boutique hotel. We were constantly challenged to meet the larger than life expectations of guests who, for all their lives, GUHDPHGRIVWD\LQJWKHUH0RPHQWVRIJORU\ZHUH¿[HGLQWKHLU
minds from either movies they had seen, glamorous events they UHDGDERXWRUVWRULHVKHDUG¿UVWKDQGIURPWKHLUSDUHQWVRUJUDQG-­
parents. This is what dreams are made of and it was our mission to make them come true, each and every day. It’s a business of details, a million of them and the bigger your business is, the more details there are to manage. With over 1400 guest rooms, three restaurants, four ballrooms and numerous other function rooms, there was no shortage of details. What I learned quickly was that all those details are better managed when there are standard op-­
erating procedures that are well thought out, communicated and enforced. In addition, I learned that those SOP’s are the founda-­
tion in the making of a good manager and that a good manager gets good results. Unfortunately, good results are often not good enough in today’s competitive market. Successful operators un-­
derstand that commitment to a shared vision from every level of the organization combined with passionate work ethic and driven by inspiring leadership transforms good results to great results. It took us a long time to create an inspiring team at the Waldorf but when it took on a life of its own, it made my dreams come true. :HOHDUQWREHJUDWHIXOLQWZRZD\V7KH¿UVWLVZKHQZHORVH
something and we then realize how valuable it was and secondly, when we take the time to learn enough about someone, someplace or something to appreciate them, based on a better understanding RI WKHP 2IWHQ WKH ¿UVW PHWKRG WHDFKHV XV WR RSHQ RXU H\HV WR
the latter. Many of us will take the time to say things like “nice job!”, “good work” or even “thanks for coming in today.” There LVQRWKLQJZURQJZLWKWKDWEXWWDNLQJWKHWLPHWRVSHFL¿FDOO\QR-­
tice the details of a job well done is so much more meaningful to people and it will actually overpower any negative energy that gets spread around by the naysayers. Sometimes, the greater our responsibility in an organization, the harder it is to be positive because there’s more pressure to per-­
form, more people to manage, more details to oversee and more problems to solve. The problem is that often times, we ourselves become nitpicking, messengers of doom and gloom and can create a negative environment for everyone to work in. Then we don’t understand why people don’t think or perform to our expectations. There is a simple answer that will solve much. Take a few minutes to notice good work and recognize it. Say things like” I really appreciate the effort you take to do (this task) so well” or “(this) is impressive work, thank you.” How about: “your efforts are re-­
ally moving us forward” and “our customers notice the way you GRWKLV´"7U\WREHVSHFL¿FDQG\RXZLOO¿QGWKDWSHRSOHZLOOQRW
only treasure your words but there’s a pretty good chance that they will stay focused on that task because they never want to let you down and it becomes a source of pride. You will see that before long, others will follow suit and negative attitudes will fade away. GRATITUDE;; A feeling of appreciation for someone, someplace or something. A powerful energy that can transform negativity to positivity. A tool to motivate people to better perform.
Someone once told me: “no one cares how much you know until they know how much you care.” As a leader, you really can’t expect your followers to be deeply concerned about what is im-­
portant to you or your mission unless you have shown some de-­
continues on page 12
NOVEMBER 2012 NEW
YORK FOOD REVIEW 11
Finding The Leader Within... continues from page 11
gree of concern for what is important to them. That said, it takes constant awareness of this fact and great discipline to make it RXUEXVLQHVVWR¿QGWKHWLPHDQGHQHUJ\WROHDUQQRWRQO\ZKDW
is important in the lives of other people but to show gratitude for efforts that they put forward on a daily basis. I was fortunate to learn this lesson early on in my career from President Reagan.
In 1985, at age 27, I was named Executive Chef of the Wal-­
dorf-­Astoria. That year coincided with the 40th anniversary of the founding of the United Nations. A few months into my role as WKH([HFXWLYH&KHI,ZDVQRWL¿HGWKDW3UHVLGHQW5RQDOG5HDJDQ
would be staying at the Hotel when he traveled from the White House to address the United Nations General Assembly. Further-­
more, Reagan would be host-­
ing British Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher, French President Francois Mitter-­
rand, Italian President Bet-­
tino Craxi, Canadian Prime Minister Brian Mulroney, and Japanese Prime Minister Yasuhiro Nakasone for a pri-­
vate dinner in the Presiden-­
tial suite. I had, and would continue to, serve presidents, heads of state and royalty as Execu-­
tive Chef hundreds of times. In almost a quarter century as the Executive Chef of the Waldorf-­Astoria, however, it is this particular experience John Doherty, that changed my idea of what Writer/Chef/Consultant
distinguishes one from being an executive to being a leader. It changed my style and life as a leader. A context is necessary. The mid-­1980s were my forma-­
tive years in management and, decades later, I can look back at that dinner as setting me off on the road to learn to become not just a leader, but an inspiring leader. In my inexperience, when I was told about the private dinner Reagan was requesting for the leaders of free world -­ U.K., France, Italy, Germany, Canada and Japan, I accepted that news with nonchalance. It was, some-­
how, in my mind, to be expected. I soon found out, however, that such an event was extraordinary. The State Department and the Secret Service descended upon the Waldorf-­Astoria. For the State Department there were matters of protocol and diplomatic procedures to follow. For the Secret Service there were matters of coordinating security not only with the Waldorf-­Astoria but also with the various security services for each leader of the vari-­
ous nations. I would be the only chef allowed onto the secured ÀRRUDQG,ZRXOGEHDFFRPSDQLHGE\6HFUHW6HUYLFHDJHQWVZKR
would not only be stationed in the kitchen, but would control the elevators and secure the prep kitchen used in the adjoining private dining room where the event would be held. The dinner and service would also require the coordination continues on next page 12 NEW YORK FOOD REVIEW
NOVEMBER 2012
Finding The Leader Within... continues from page 12
of various governments, as well as input from Nancy Reagan, ZKRZDVPHWLFXORXVDERXW5HDJDQ¶VPHDOV7KHUHZDVDÀXUU\RI
activity between the Waldorf-­Astoria and the State Department in the weeks leading up to the event. Throughout this process, when ,PHWZLWKRI¿FLDOVIURPWKH6WDWH'HSDUWPHQWWKH\VWUHVVHGKRZ
“extraordinary” this event would be, and how the matter of con-­
ÀLFWLQJDQGRYHUODSSLQJSURWRFROVKDGFUHDWHGDVHULHVRIFRQVLG-­
erations for how the evening would unfold. This was a – dare I use the word – “diplomatic” way of telling me that, unlike other events in the Reagan White House, the president would not be able to break free for photo ops or meet and greets to thank any staff members for providing dinner and the service. It was well known that Reagan was a very personable man, one who went out of his way to acknowledge and thank those around him. I was honored that I would be preparing this historic meal, and the idea of being thanked personally was not even a concern of mine;; I wanted to prepare an exceptional meal, pro-­
YLGHÀDZOHVVVHUYLFHDQGPHHWWKHH[SHFWDWLRQVWKH:KLWH+RXVH
had set for the evening. Of course, I also knew that Reagan would be back in New York for other events, and hoped that I would have the oppor-­
tunity to meet him at a later date. The explanations offered by the State Department were understandable, and in no way damp-­
ened my enthusiasm for this private dinner party. Preparations continued, with wine selections considered and reconsidered, as were the divergent dietary preferences of the other heads of state as conveyed through diplomatic channels. When the day arrived, the Secret Service secured the installations, and the State Depart-­
ment was in charge of all matters of protocol and I was escorted WRWKHVHFXUHGÀRRUWRSUHSDUHWKHPHDO7KHGLQQHUXQIROGHGDV
planned, course after course, with impeccable service, and with delighted approval at the selection of California wines that ac-­
companied each course. At the conclusion of the dinner, Rea-­
gan and his guests retreated to another room, while the kitchen wound down. Two Secret Service agents approached me and OHWPHNQRZWKH\ZRXOGHVFRUWPHRIIWKHVHFXUHGÀRRUDQGZH
headed down the hall. One summoned the elevator and the three of us entered. The elevators door closed, and just then one of the agents received a message in his earphone, and he replied by speaking into a microphone attached to his wrist. He looked at me, then at the other agent who nodded, ac-­
NQRZOHGJLQJ ZKDWHYHU WKH ¿UVW DJHQW KDG EHHQ WROG 7KH ¿UVW
agent then looked back at me and, surprised, said, “The President would like to see you.” 7KH HOHYDWRU VWRSSHG DQG ZH UHWXUQHG WR WKH VHFXUHG ÀRRU
Without either agent saying a word, we exited the elevator when the doors opened, and made our way back to the Presidential suite where the presidential party was being held. I waited in foyer and stood for a moment, with only a Secret Service agent when, suddenly, President Ronald Reagan, having left Thatcher, Mit-­
terrand, Craxi, Mulroney and Nakasone, approached me. He ex-­
tended his hand, a familiar grin on his face, and he thanked me for being part of this historic event. -­ By John Doherty, Doherty Consulting Food Services
NOVEMBER 2012 NEW
YORK FOOD REVIEW 13
UPCOMING EVENTS
KOSHER FEST 2012 -­ Connect with the International World of Kosher
November 13-­14, 2012
Meadowlands Exposition Center, Secaucus, NJ 7XHVGD\1RYHPEHUDPSP‡:HGQHVGD\1RYHPEHUDPSP
.RVKHUIHVWLVWKHZRUOG¶VODUJHVWNRVKHUFHUWL¿HGSURGXFWVWUDGHHYHQWVHUYLQJWKHUHWDLODQGIRRGVHUYLFH,QGXVWULHV
The annual meeting place for the industry’s top kosher supermarket and restaurant buyers. 0RUHWKDQH[KLELWRUVIHDWXULQJNRVKHUFHUWL¿HGSURGXFWVIURPDURXQGWKHJOREH
GNJSHFSA (Greater New Jersey Society for Healthcare Food Service Administrators)
Annual Conference and Exhibits
Nov. 15, 2012 at The Westwood, Garwood, NJ. Featuring top trends in healthcare foodservice, the power of motivation, using spices, herbs and aromatics, healthy menu planning and more.
For more information, visit: www.gnjsh.com
CFESA 2013 Spring Conference
February 4 -­ 6, 2013
at the Peabody Orlando, Orlando, FL
A conference discussing and anticipating trends and provide resources, training and education to support excellence in service. For more information, visit: www.cfesa.com
The 20th Annual International Restaurant & Foodservice Show of New York
March 3-­5, 2013, at the Jacob Javits Center, New York City, Manhattan, NY
An all-­encompassing event in New York for the restaurant and foodservice industry, making it the one-­stop source for everything you need to succeed in today’s market.
http://www.internationalrestaurantny.com
New England Food Show March 10-­12, 2013
at the Boston Convention & Exhibition Center
Boston, United States Of America New England Food Show is one of the chief food service and retail sector trade shows LQWKH8QLWHG6WDWHV7KHVKRZERDVWVRIRYHUDOOSDUWLFLSDWLRQ¿JXUHVLQH[FHVVRIDWHDFKRILWVHGLWLRQV
and the latest industry developments and updates are deliberated upon here. For more information, visit: www.nefs-­expo.com/
This year’s NRA Show 2013 at the McCormick Place in Chicago, IL.
Exhibit hours and Seminars:
May 18-­21, 2013
7RSLFDO&RYHUDJHWRLQFOXGLQJFRQQHFWLQJZLWKH[KLELWRUVDFURVVSURGXFW categories. More than 70 free educational sessions. Network with leaders from 100 countries and across the United States. Top Chefs in World Culinary Showcase.
http://restaurant.org/show/
Derrek Hull -­ Manager, Industry Communications & Relations (312) 853-­2522
Association for Healthcare Foodservice 2013 Annual Conference
June 5 -­ 8, 2013
The Sheraton New Orleans, New Orleans, LA
For outstanding educational sessions and lively networking events. The AHF conference is the only conference of its kind, uniquely tailored to the needs of the healthcare foodservice self-­operator and the business partners that support them.
For more information, visit: www.healthcarefoodservice.org/annual-­conference
Next Month’s Issue of
NEW YORK FOOD REVIEW
Featuring:
CHALLENGES OF A KOSHER KITCHEN
HEALTHCARE FACILITY DINING SERVICES
UNIVERSITY DINING SERVICES
EMAIL BLAST MARKETING
14 NEW YORK FOOD REVIEW
NOVEMBER 2012
UPCOMING EVENTS
International Hotel, Motel & Restaurant Show
November 11 -­ 13th, 2012
at the Jacob Javits Center in New York
Manhattan, NY
Exhibit hours:
November 11-­12, 2012: 10:00am -­ 5:00pm EST
November 13, 2012: 10:00am -­ 4:00pm EST
Topical coverage including: Technology, Foodservice Equipment, Flavors, Linens, Amenities, Decor, Tableware and other Essentials
Additional hours and days dedicated to seminars and educational programs for the food service industry
For more information, visit: www.ihmrs.com
This year’s North American Association of Foodservice Equipment Manufacturers
is at the Orange County Convention Center, Orlando, FLORIDA
February 7-­9, 2013
Featuring: approximately 20,000 foodservice professionals and features over 500 exhibitors displaying products for food preparation, cooking, stor-­
age and table service. The widest range of foodservice equipment and supplies solutions from more than 500 exhibitors are on display for you to see. Get up close and personal with the products and manufacturers prepared to position you for success. For more information, visit: www.thenafemshow.org
NOVEMBER 2012 NEW
YORK FOOD REVIEW 15
FOCUS ON SERVICE
How To Get And Maintain An “A” O
n top of all the challenges existing in the New York res-­
taurant arena, such as competition, parking, congestion and menus, the restaurateur must now deal with the health de-­
partment’s alphabet rating system and have it posted for every-­
one to view.
)RUWKRVHZKRJHWWKH³$´SXEOLFSRVWLQJLV¿QHLWHYHQ
plays a positive role in bringing in customers. However, the anxiety leading up to the inspection and the possibility of miss-­
ing something that could cause a kink is enough to trigger the desire to just close the doors and pack it in. In order to stack the deck in your favor, there are several steps you can take to heighten the probability of getting that “A.” First, you must have the reference book that lists the regulations and tells how to comply with them. Once you have that, you are half way home. Someone responsible in the organization should be entrusted with the task of working off a checklist to en-­
sure that your business is com-­
pliant with each code item. Utility workers and all levels of management must familiarize themselves with the codes so that they can quickly recognize and remedy a code violation and resume the compliant posture needed to get and maintain that “A.”
There are reasonably priced service companies that can be hired that will come to inspect your operation as if they were the Department of Health, and let you know if you are code compliant. If they determine that you are not compliant, they ZLOODGYLVH\RXKRZWRTXLFNO\UHPHG\WKHGH¿FLHQF\,I\RX
are on a tight budget, your chemical company can be recruited to partner with code compliancy, such as checking dish ma-­
chine temperatures on a regular basis and checking the three compartment pot and pan washing sinks. They will also check to ensure that procedures are properly followed and the right concentration of detergent is injected.
The purpose of the inspection program is to heighten the DZDUHQHVVRIWKHIRRGVHUYLFHRSHUDWRU7KHEHQH¿FLDULHVDUH
the patrons of the establishment who deserve the very best in sanitation. Reference material is available through the Department of Health, and can be found online. Future articles will offer tips and contact information needed to quickly connect for more detailed information.
-­ By Ed Daniels, PRO-­TEK of New York
16 NEW YORK FOOD REVIEW
NOVEMBER 2012
Waldorf Astoria New York... continues from page 4
Waldorf Astoria New York’s Bull & Bear Steakhouse
steamers from CLEVELAND;; pizza oven from DOYON;; deck RYHQIURP3$9$,//(5WRDVWHUVIURP+2/0$1ÀDWWRSIURP
VULCAN. Another, notable vendor is one of their hollowware silversmiths, D.W. HABER & SON with over a hundred years of experience in the manufacturing of elegant hollowware and catering equipment.
Fortunately, the Waldorf Astoria New York employs a full-­
time maintenance staff and also enlist an independent mainte-­
nance company, PRO-­TEK of New York, to handle preventive maintenance, repair and to keep track of warranty information. “Even with all the equipment, operations, and reputation in place, we still can’t rest on our laurels,” Garcelon says. “We stay attentive to the trend changes our clientele is looking for. Our three main facilities, the Peacock Alley, Bull & Bear and Oscar’s Brasserie, are traditional to perfection and people know what to expect. No one is treated commonly and our outstanding service attracts and keeps hotel guests and locals coming.” The Peacock Alley’s 100 years of history began where the Empire State Building was erected. The centerpiece of Man-­
hattan was, and still is, the place to meet and the place to be seen. Famous dishes begin with the Waldorf Salad and end with the Red Velvet Cake. The Waldorf Salad is a shaved and sliced fresh apple with greens that invigorates \RXUVHQVHVIURPWKH¿UVWELWH
The red velvet cake is served DV ¿YH LGHQWLFDOO\ VL]HG FXS-­
cakes and is unforgettable. As a reporter, I felt obligated to try both specialty dishes and they were prepared and pre-­
sented with precision. Garcelon says, “We do serve over 20,000 Waldorf Salads a year and each one is made to perfection.” So, what is new at the Waldorf? The Royal Sunday Brunch has the largest assortment of classic brunch fare in the city. “It is getting incredible reviews and has increased business by 30%,” Garcelon reports. While you might assume that the Waldorf Astoria of New York’s primary clientele is its hotel occupants, it is really not. Once someone attends the brunch, an event, or dines at Peacock Alley, Bull & Bear or Oscar’s Brasserie, they are bound to become loyal customers. Being in competition with the largest variety of restaurants in the world makes it a challenge to keep hotel guests eating here, but that is just DOO WKH PRUH UHDVRQ WR PDLQWDLQ WKH ÀDZOHVV VWDQGDUGV WKDW DUH
strived for each day.
“We do have an in-­house person dedicated to social media, as its importance cannot be ignored,” says Garcelon. “Even if someone thinks that their clientele is old-­school, everyone is ei-­
ther internet connected or has an administrative assistant that is. Events, fads and the buzz on celebrities are being tweeted and facebooked regularly. Staying up to date with technology for the purposes of cooking, in-­
ventory, POS and social media is important in this competi-­
tive marketplace.” A key element to the suc-­
cess of the Waldorf is, of course, hiring and training staff. Recruiting exceptional-­
ly talented staff is critical. Be-­
fore they’re hired here at the Waldorf Astoria New York, a successful applicant typically has received training from the continues on page 18
NOVEMBER 2012 NEW
YORK FOOD REVIEW 17
Waldorf Astoria New York... continues from page 17
best facilities like Johnson Wales and the Culinary Institute and also has real life work experience from the best New York restau-­
rants. Once hired, the Waldorf Astoria New York has an exten-­
sive and continuous training program. The Waldorf Astoria New York does not experience much turnover. The average tenure is over ten years. Training and code review is constant and Char-­
cuterie (branch of cooking devoted to prepared meat products, salting, curing, and seasoning) and Garde Manager training (the management and preparation of cold foods) are provided. The Executive Chef also participates in twelve management classes. These training classes take place in the kitchen and conference rooms with elaborate presentations, hands-­on learning, and col-­
laborative discussion. Garcelon explains that having the Front House Managers know more of what goes on in the back of the house creates synergy, appreciation, and enhances their sales and abilities to serve guests. Further, communication between serv-­
ers and chefs is encouraged, which builds a sense of teamwork and mutual respect. When it comes to creating the ultimate food experience, Gar-­
celon spotlights two key components ingredients and execution. “I must get the freshest and best products available and do so by building relationships with suppliers and working with preferred brands and ingredients. Execution refers to our great staff: the prep, cooking, presentation and delivery. If you have great ingre-­
dients and great talent, producing great food is easy.”
Always being ready to accommodate guests is essential;; guests request gluten-­free bread, gluten-­free pizza, gluten-­free pasta, vegetarian dishes and kosher dishes. The Waldorf Asto-­
ria New York is thrilled with its kosher supplier, ABIGAELS of New York and caters a fair amount of kosher events. WILD EDIBLES offers the freshest seafood and BALDOR is used for fresh produce. Preferred meat sup-­
pliers are BUCK-­
HEAD BEEF and DEBRAGGA. SYS-­
CO is a key supplier and makes regular deliveries of their wide selection of foods and restaurant supplies.
$V D ¿QDO ORDGHG
question, I ask Gar-­
celon to name his strengths, weakness-­
es, favorite dish to prepare, favorite dish to eat, and what other chefs he most respects;; he answers accordingly. An area of strength is leader-­
ship and developing people’s talents. “As 18 NEW YORK FOOD REVIEW
NOVEMBER 2012
Waldorf Astoria New York’s Executive Chef David Garcelon
“icing on the cake”
one learns how to cook at school, management and organization can’t really be taught in the class. By giving my chefs more responsibilities and my trust, I enjoy turning chefs into leaders.” $ÀDZWKDWKHUHYHDOVLVWKDWKHLVVRPHWLPHVWRRFDXJKWXSLQ the bustle of work and wishes he had more opportunity to compliment, recognize, and praise the people around him. Re-­
garding his favorite dish to prepare and eat, it is no surprise considering he grew up in the northeast and lived and worked LQ %HUPXGD WKDW VHDIRRG DQG IUHVK ¿VK LV *DUFHORQ¶V IDYRULWH “The variety of options in seasoning and preparing seafood and ¿VK DUH HQGOHVV EXW LW¶V JRW WR EH VXSHU IUHVK´ *DUFHORQ HQGV our interview by telling me about how just recently, the two presidential candidates came to the Waldorf Astoria New York to attend a catered event the day after one of the debates. ³:H¶UH DOO XVHG WR WKH VHFUHW VHUYLFH DQG ERPE VQLI¿QJ GRJV carefully inspecting the kitchen, although we do get a thrill when celebrities and the President cut through the kitchen. Events with state departments and the White House happen regularly. We almost take it for granted until that moment when the well-­
NQRZQ ¿JXUH ZDONV ZLWKLQ LQFKHV RI XV DQG JLYHV XV D QRG or a smile. “ Whether it’s Obama and Romney attending an event, or a family gathering, a marriage proposal, or someone’s everyday lunch, Garcelon and his staff feel like they are a part of history.
-­ by Perry Edwards
FOCUS ON MARKETING:
Coupons the Double-­Edged Sword
A
s restaurant owners, food service directors, and management product leaders, you are all experts when it comes to regularly DVVHVVLQJDQGFRQWHPSODWLQJWKHEHQH¿WVRIPDUNHWLQJWHFKQLTXHV
and different media outlets regularly. As true captains of industry, you research and revisit topics and welcome new technologies. This monthly column will discuss the familiar marketing topic of coupons, but may allow you to see a different viewpoint. A posh restaurant, hotel dining or tourist dining facility should typically not need to offer discounts or coupons. A trendy restau-­
rant attracts a socially elite crowd, creating an air of exclusivity and the last thing they may desire is to offer a coupon to destroy that allure. However, despite one’s food and excellent service, the con-­
VXPHUWUDI¿FHYHQWXDOO\VORZVGRZQ
As marketers are pushing advertising, coupons and discounts, you may eventually give in to their suggestions or you may resist. However, refusing to make peddling offers to spark business just PD\EDFN¿UHRYHUWLPH0RVWPDQDJHUVHYHQWXDOO\FDYHLQDQG
peddle, but by then it could be too late. If the closure of New York City icons, such as the Rainbow Room and Tavern on the Green, has taught us anything, we should realize that we must always be trying out new marketing ventures. We must not shrink from internet rankings, sponsored web ads, pay-­by-­click ads, web cou-­
pons, food reviews, free newspaper ads, small community paper ads and email/SMS blast campaigns. ,WLVGLI¿FXOWWRDFFHSWELWLQJWKH¿QDQFLDOEXOOHWZKHUHLQRI-­
fering a coupon, one must spend money on promoting it. The FRXSRQLWVHOIFXWVLQWRSUR¿WVDVZHOO+RZHYHUWKHUHDOGRXEOH
edged sword to the coupon is the “left it at home” scenario. The “left it at home” scenario is as follows: I am in the parking lot adjacent to my favorite arts and crafts store, and I know I need some kind of fabric glue for an embarrassing project I don’t wish to discuss. However, they offer a weekly coupon via email that discounts 50% off any one item ev-­
ery week and I know I haven’t got that coupon on me;; it is still sitting in my email inbox. I refuse to go into their store and buy the lousy $8.99 item out of principle. The ridiculous “forgot my coupon” scenario and the $4 savings overrode my common sense, especially when I now think about the $8.00 in gas I would spend returning another day! We DOOEHJUXGJHSD\LQJIXOOSULFHNQRZLQJWKDWDFRXSRQLVÀRDWLQJ
around. In that way, a coupon has a detrimental effect on busi-­
ness. The prepaid discount coupon is a popular offering from me-­
dia outlets such as Groupon, Living Social and the New York 3RVW2IIHUVRISUHSDLG¿[HGPHDOVRU³SD\WRUHFHLYHD
voucher” are deals that are well worth it to the consumer. I just recently joined a friend who bought a Groupon for the Copaca-­
bana. The Copa is another great New York City icon restaurant that has been around since the 1940’s. Immortalized by Rat Pack history and a 1978 Barry Manilow hit song that still resonates in our heads, they still enlisted a new marketing method targeting a “A romantic date ends
with a coupon?”
new, younger, computer savvy clientele. Without going through the details of the very attractive deal, I was very impressed that the Copa went the route of the prepaid discount web coupon. We all know that no romantic dinner date ends with a coupon awkwardly being dug out of a wallet. However, in this economy, more established couples may afford going out a few extra times continues on page 20
NOVEMBER 2012 NEW
YORK FOOD REVIEW 19
Coupons... continues from page 19
a week by taking advantage of attractive deals. So although it is VLPSO\QRWDFFHSWDEOHIRUD¿UVWGDWHUWRZKLSRXWDFRXSRQZLWK-­
out being labeled frugal and therefore undateable, savvy couples “ discounted produce =
not fresh? ”
on subsequent dates will and as a result, spend more time at din-­
ing establishments. Not only are we not fooling anyone with a complicated dis-­
count offers, but it is insulting to the intelligent consumer. “Buy Two Entree’s at Full Price and Receive an Appetizer at Half Price” LVQRJUHDWGHDO7RDGGLQVXOWWRLQMXU\,¿QGLQVPDOOSULQWWKDW
the offer only works between 2pm and 5pm on Mondays. The intelligent, successful and wealthier consumer is the preferred tar-­
JHWDXGLHQFH6LPLODUWRXVDOO¿QGLQJWKDWWKHKDOISULFHSURGXFH
at the supermarket is teetering on its shelf life expiration, a great deal is too good to be true and the higher quality consumer knows it. So, as we bounce back and forth the pros and cons of the coupon and advertising, I propose one of many coupon related solutions. Whether it be a web or a paper coupon, the answer is lunch coupons or slow day coupons. The lunch coupon does not interfere with the atmosphere of the evening’s elegance, but still allows a new client base to try your wares. Even the wealthiest businessperson isn’t afraid to produce a coupon during an internal business lunch. When corporate executives take out their own employees, they like to give the appearance of frugal concern and “ don’t get complacent ”
are happy to use coupons. Identify your slow business days and WU\DQHZH[FLWLQJFDPSDLJQVSHFL¿FWRWKRVHGD\V3HUKDSV\RX
FDQVKDNHWKLQJVXSDELWE\KLULQJDQHZ¿UPRUDSSRLQWD\RXWK-­
ful employee to run with a great idea.
$V ZH UHVLVW %XVLQHVV WHDFKLQJV WKDW RI DOO SUR¿WV
should be reinvested in marketing and advertising, yes, it is a big FKXQNWREHDUEXWPD\EHQH¿WXVLQWKHORQJUXQ:HDOONQRZ
this and everything we’ve discussed in this article, but let it serve as a reminder and a wake-­up call. Don’t get complacent or feel FRQ¿GHQWWKDWZKDWKDVZRUNHGLQWKHSDVWZLOOFRQWLQXHWRZRUN
We are either growing our business or it is withering. There is no VWDWXVTXR,QWKLVHFRQRP\LQÀDWLRQFRPSHWLWLRQDQGXQH[SHFW-­
ed trends make it impossible to stand still. Don’t delay;; act now! Upcoming topics that will be discussed and researched in this FROXPQ ZLOO EH HPDLO EODVWV 606 WH[WLQJ 35 ¿UPV &HOHEULW\
draw, Storefront, Facebook likes and Glittering generalities. -­ By Perry Edwards 20 NEW YORK FOOD REVIEW
NOVEMBER 2012
A FOCUS ON EQUIPMENT
Ventless Cooking “Help...I Need Somebody”
Hmmm…sounds like a song! T
KHUHDOLW\LVWKDWZKHQLWFRPHVWR¿QGLQJVRPHRQHZLWKLQ
the bureaucracy of New York City’s Fire Department (or other locales for that matter) who can easily give the nod of ap-­
proval for the use of ventless hoods and cooking equipment, we really do need some help! Ventless hoods and cooking equipment were developed so that facilities which do not have either the physical means or the ¿QDQFLDOUHVRXUFHVFDQRIIHUFRRNHGPHDOVIRUWKHLUHPSOR\HHV
patients, students or for the homeless. Some manufacturers ad-­
vertise that their equipment is approved for use in New York City, which is perhaps one of the toughest places to get such approval. Surely these manu-­
facturers would not go out on such a liability limb if they did not have “all their ducks in a row.” <HWZHDUH¿QGLQJWKDWZKHQ
such equipment is installed at a facility, the Fire Marshal as-­
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suppression system often looks at the item with wonder and an immediate response of “This cannot be used without formal ducting out of the building.” Ultimately, at this point the manufacturer produces the evidence that the system not only bears the needed regulatory agency approvals, but also has documentation from the City of New York showing its approval for use within the Five Bor-­
oughs. Why must manufacturers, dealers and the ultimate victim, the end user, have to deal with such hassle? Surely there must be an expeditious way to alert the vast Fire and Building De-­
partment inspectors of new and current equipment that meets and exceeds the archaic codes on the books from possibly cen-­
turies ago. I think the time has come for a hotline number whereby the YDULRXV LQVSHFWRUV DQG ¿UH PDUVKDOV FDQ FDOO D FHQWUDO RI¿FH
whose function is to be an authority on the latest and greatest RXULQGXVWU\KDVWRRIIHU2IFRXUVHWKLVRI¿FHZRXOGEHWKH
keeper of all needed authority approval documentation, thereby eliminating the delay in allowing a facility to operate since all uncertainty would be taken off the inspectors’ shoulders. Hopefully, our industry can somehow reach out to govern-­
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the nourishment of our society. -­ By Eric Weiss, Elite / Studio e, Equipment and Design
NOVEMBER 2012 NEW
YORK FOOD REVIEW 21
IN THE NEWS
Cutting Into Restaurant 3UR¿WV%\%DQQLQJ1<&
Supersize Beverage Sales -­ What’s Next?
“S
oda Industry Sues to Stop a Sales Ban on Big Drinks,” reported New York Times on October 12, 2012. New York’s battle over big sodas is heading to the court-­
room. The American soft-­drink industry, joined by several New York restaurant and business JURXSV ¿OHG D ODZVXLW RQ )ULGD\ WKDW DLPV
to overturn restrictions, proposed by Mayor Michael R. Bloomberg and approved by the Board of Health, on sales of large sugary drinks at many dining locations in the city. 7KH VXLW ¿OHG LQ 6WDWH 6XSUHPH &RXUW LQ
Manhattan, contends that the Board of Health did not have the authority to ratify the new rules unilaterally. The rules — approved last month and scheduled to take effect in March — limit the size of sugary drinks to 16 ounces or less at restaurants, street carts, and entertainment and sports venues. The mayor’s chief spokesman, Marc La Vorgna, reject-­
ed arguments within the lawsuit, calling the lawsuit “baseless.” &LW\ KHDOWK RI¿FLDOV KDYH DUJXHG WKDW WKH
plan can help curb runaway obesity rates in the city, where more than half of adults are overweight or obese. “The Board of Health absolutely has the authority to regulate matters affecting health, and the obesity crisis killing nearly 6,000 New Yorkers a year — and impacting the lives of thousands more — unquestion-­
ably falls under its purview,” Mr. La Vorgna wrote in a statement. The city noted that industry groups have tried to stop Mr. Bloomberg’s previous public health initiatives, including a smoking ban and a requirement for disclosure of calorie counts on restaurant menus. “Not only did those ef-­
forts fail, but our policies have been adopted in cities and states across the country,” Mr. La Vorgna wrote. “This case is not about obesity in New York City,” the plaintiffs wrote in the opening sentence of the suit. “This case is about the Board of Health, appointed by the continues on next page WHAT’S NEXT?
Getty Images
A ban on fruit juice, apple pie and new york cheese cake
22 NEW YORK FOOD REVIEW
NOVEMBER 2012
&XWWLQJ,QWR5HVWDXUDQW3UR¿WV... continues from page 22
mayor ,bypassing the proper legislative process for governing the city.” In September 2012, the Queensbeat reported that whether you’re for or against the soda ban the NYC Board of Health ap-­
< CONTINUED FROM PAGE 15 >
proved last week, you can’t say the city’s plan to combat obesity FDPH RXW RI OHIW ¿HOG 2YHU WKH ODVW GHFDGH 0D\RU %ORRPEHUJ
CUTTING INTO RESTAURANT PROFITS -­ WHAT’S NEXT, A BAN ON has pitched not one, but six contested policies testing the limits of what government can and cannot do to promote healthier habits. FRUIT JUICE, APPLE PIE AND NEW YORK CHEESE CAKE
His ambitious — some say overreaching — initiatives have drawn both criticism and the country’s attention as potential models for national legislation. Check out a timeline of Bloomberg’s policies, the hits and the misses, below: 2002 ~ New York City Smoke-­Free Air Act is signed into law, prohibiting smoking in virtually all workplaces to limit New Yorkers’ harmful exposure to secondhand smoke. 2006 a1HZ<RUN&LW\GUDIWVWKH¿UVWPHQXODEHOLQJODZLQWKH
country, which would require all chain restaurants with more than 15 locations to post the caloric content of standardized food items. Well-­informed customers, the theory goes, will PDNHKHDOWKLHUFKRLFHV7KHFLW\¿QDOO\SDVVHVWKHODZLQ
after battling lawsuits that have challenged it as a violation of commercial free speech.
2007
2007 ~ loomberg Bloomberg proposes of his tPlaNYC ~ B
proposes (as a p(as art oa f hpart is PlaNYC o make Nto ew make New York greener) a congestion pricing policy
York greener) a congestion pricing policy thatwould charge cars thatwould charge cars entering or leaving Manhattan during entering or leaving Manhattan during business hours an $8 fee business hours an $8 fee in an effort to reduce vehicle in an effort to reduce vehicle emissions.
emissions.
2008
2008 ~ The city’s ban on “trans fats” takes effect, barring ~ The city’s ban on “trans fats” takes effect, barring res-­
restaurants from using hydrogenated cooking oils (these taurants from using hydrogenated cooking oils (these vegetable vegetable oils, solidified in an industrial process that adds RLOV VROLGL¿HG LQ DQ LQGXVWULDO SURFHVV WKDW DGGV K\GURJHQ WR
hydrogen to them, raise cholesterol levels and the risk of them, raise cholesterol levels and the risk of heart disease) in heart disease) in their cooking. their cooking.
~ NYC launches the
2009 2009 National Salt Reduction
~ NYC launches the National Salt Reduction Initiative, in a Initiative, in a nod to research nod to research indicating that diets high in salt intake increase indicating that diets high in blood pressure. Companies that volunteer to participate in the salt intake increase blood
initiative must meet targets set for salt content in 62 food cat-­
pressure. Companies that
egories and 25 types of restaurant foods. volunteer to participate in the initiative must meet targets
set for salt content in 62 food Skeptics argue that a violation of civil liberties are being vi-­
categories and 25 types of
olated and suggest, “What’s Next?” While restaurateurs thrive restaurant foods.
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Skeptics argue that a violation WUDFWLYHVXSHUVL]HDQGIUHHUH¿OORIIHUVWKHFRQVXPHUDOVRHQMR\V
of civil liberties are being violated and suggest, “What’s these savings. As restrictions are government ordered rather than Next?” While restaurateurs thrive on passing along deals on to being choices made by the consumer, we become vulnerable beverage profit margins and offer attractive supersize and additional edicts on what’s next. Where fruit juices and cakes are free refill offers, the consumer A
also enjoys these savings.
similarly sugar rich, our history of merican freedom , Apple Pie As restrictions are government ordered rather than being and New York Cheese Cake is being threatened.
choices made by the consumer, we become vulnerable to -­ from Newsroom additional edicts on what’s next. Where fruit juices and cakes are similarly sugar rich, our history of AAmerican freedom , Apple Pie and New York Cheese Cake is being threatened.
<END NEWS ARTICLE>
NOVEMBER 2012 NEW
YORK FOOD REVIEW 23
NEW YORK FOOD REVIEW -­ NOVEMBER 2012 -­3$*(
What’s Hot, Staying Hot and How -­ Nobu Fifty Seven... continues from page 7
Nobu Fifty Seven, Sashimi Salad
Hoyle feels that a great leader can get the best out of people and believes that one must give their co-­workers both mo-­
tivation and responsibility. Wever says that recognizing talent, attendance, providing cross training and internal promotions is appreciated. Wever proudly boasts that his dishwashers have moved up to become pastry chefs, to sous chefs and that one of his former dishwashers is now a captain at one of the west coast locations. In addition, several servers that trained at Nobu Fifty Seven are now working at locations in Dubai and Hawaii.
When asked about his own personal, mentoring and leader-­
ship training, Wever credits his two grandmothers. One of whom owned a snack shop while the other was a writer and owned a newspaper and was also a very good cook. He learned how to cook from them both. One was French and the other was Dutch, offering different styles and vast amounts of cultural knowledge WKDWKHVRDNHGXS$QRWKHUPDMRULQÀXHQFHZDV'UHZ1LHSRUHQW
who was a guest speaker at Florida International University in 1999 and left Wever mesmerized with stories about restaurants in Tribeca and around the world.
Nieporent, one of America’s most respected and celebrated restaurateurs, is the founder and inspiration behind the Myriad Restaurant Group, which operates Tribeca Grill, Nobu New York City, Nobu Fifty Seven, Nobu London, Nobu Next Door, Corton and Crush Wine & Spirits. Over the last 26 years, Myr-­
iad has opened and operated over 35 restaurants around the world, including Seattle, Louisville, Providence, Boca Ra-­
ton, London, Moscow, and Citi Field, home of the New York Mets in Flushing, New York. The Myriad Group’s enterprises are growing so rapidly that my research probably left out their continues on next page 24 NEW YORK FOOD REVIEW
NOVEMBER 2012
Nobu Fifty Seven... continues from page 24
most recent ventures. After Studying in Florida, Wever went to work as a chef at Del Duca in Volterra, Itlay and then went on to work in Spain. He returned to Miami where he met Thomas Buckley, currently the Nobu Corporate Executive Chef and Howard Kuo former General Manager of Nobu Mi-­
ami. Most of his training was in French and Italian food, so he didn’t think the Japanese thing would work for him. He de-­
cided to give it a shot and never looked back.
I have to mention that Nobuyuki Matsuhisa, Drew Nieporent, Richard Notar and Nobu Fifty Seven Elegant dining Thomas Buckley all have rich histories and intriguing stories. Any brief mention of these gen-­
tlemen and snapshot of their histories in this article does not do them justice.
In the guiding light of the above listed leaders, Nobu continues to create ambience and allure. New offerings and unending in-­
trigue is imperative. Food trends like gluten-­free and allergy issues are kept in mind as well. Hoyle explains, “we are very sensitive to gluten-­free and allergy restrictions and will do our utmost to accom-­
modate our guests’ needs.” Once again, the training and knowledge of the servers equip them to handle most issues. Hoyle says, “Yes, we train them extensively because, regarding gluten, certain soy sauces are initially made with wheat which is then removed. We DUHYHU\XSIURQWDQGFDUHIXODERXWLW7KHUHDUHDOVRXQXVXDO¿VKDO-­
lergies, levels of vegetarianism and even different levels of kosher. We can, and are happy to, accommodate everyone.” Keeping abreast of new technologies and equipment is impor-­ Nobu Fifty Seven, Black Cod Miso
tant, as well. Partnerships with vendors and others within the industry help keep them up to date with equipment and methods. They recently enhanced their ice maker above and beyond the WULSOH¿OWHUV\VWHPE\LQVWDOOLQJ89OLJKWVDVDQDGGRQEDFWHULDO
sanitizing method. This was done in collaboration with equip-­
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service company PRO-­TEK. Inspectors and managers are now required to wear protective eye goggles before opening the ma-­
chine for operation inspection. Nobu Fifty Seven also works with local service company KITCHENWORKS that specialize in JADE OVENS. They embrace technology changes such as their new dish machine which compresses the steam and reuses it. This HOBART machine has a built-­in steam booster and uses two-­thirds less water and chemicals. Hoyle says that using fewer chemicals is part of their effort to be more green. Oven clean-­
ers and degreasers are very environmentally unfriendly and they are always experimenting with new, more earth-­friendly ones. Nobu Fifty Seven operates completely pesticide free and harmful FKHPLFDOIUHHZLWK*UHHQ&HUWL¿HGSURGXFWV1REX)LIW\6HYHQ
also sorts trash for composting and cooking oil gets turned into Biodiesel. Nobu has a longstanding relationship with ECOLAB, the 90-­year leader in commercial cleaning supplies and sanitation solutions nationwide and internationally. Nobu also works with ECOLOGIC SOLUTIONS, a local company with strong roots in green technology and solutions. When discussing Hoyle and Wever’s own personal favorites that they prepare at home, like pasta and noodles from scratch, they also mentioned slow cooked meats and stews, which re-­
minded Hoyle of his RATIONAL programmable combi-­oven in the Nobu kitchen. “Being able to program exact temperatures, exact timing of conventional heat or steam is huge. I’m a big fan,” says Hoyle. While sitting with Hoyle and Wever at the exclusive custom hibachi table and trying to be the attentive investigative reporter, continues on page 26
NOVEMBER 2012 NEW
YORK FOOD REVIEW 25
What’s Hot, Staying Hot and How -­ Nobu Fifty Seven... continues from page 25
I somehow missed one of the coolest hoodless designs. Appar-­
ently after several tries, they redesigned the elongated party hi-­
bachi table and have a custom hoodless system. Basically they custom built a continuous suction vent around the perimeter of the heating plates within the table top.
One of the Supplier/Equipment/Designer’s is COMMER-­
CIAL KITCHEN DESIGN, along with Greg Rowhl, who Wever loves working with on dozens of projects. He is regularly on three-­way calls between Rowhl and their service company. As well, SHAMUT CONSTRUCTION was involved in the origi-­
nal construction of Nobu Fifty Seven and comes in regularly for review. Wever states, “It’s not a matter of luck that we’ve got a great list of vendors.”
In addition to our main dish machine, we have several other undercounter HOBART dish/glass machines, a walk in refrigera-­
tor by AMERICAN PANEL, several wine and beverage coolers from BEVERAGE AIR and EURO CAVE, fryers from PITCO and DEAN, a BUNN-­O-­MATIC hot water unit, several lowboys from GLASTENDER, a booster from HATCO, freezer units from NORLAKE and SOLOW, a RINNAL rice cooker, a SOUTH-­
BEND steamer and two RATIONAL ovens. Counting on equipment and the people who use it daily is imperative in the face of small or large crises. Wever relayed an interesting story where he received a call from his trusted assis-­
tant Rommel Torres about a leak in the dining room. To Wever’s Nobu Fifty Seven, Squid Salad
26 NEW YORK FOOD REVIEW
NOVEMBER 2012
Tiradito at Nobu Fifty Seven
surprise, as he turned the corner on 5th Avenue over a block away from the restaurant, he saw water rushing down the street. As he surfed his way through the stream, he made his way upstairs to a major waterfall addition to his dining room. A simple leaky water pipe from the gallery upstairs snowballed into a business stop-­
ping event. Wever shut down the necessary pipes and electricity, and then contacted his building manager, building engineer, his plumber and rental company for dryers and water recovery. They constructed a stanchion, repositioned a few pieces of artwork and still opened on time. Wever re-­states that his relationship with vendors like his plumber, PARAMOUNT PLUMBING, is vital. “It’s not completely uncommon to have unexpected power out-­
ages or intermittent issues,” says Hoyle, “but when it happens, I contact Wever and put the sashimi on ice.”
Providing a unique dining experience includes attention to design, decor and motif. Nobu is well-­known for commissioning the ROCKWELL GROUP for this task. The downstairs bar de-­
sign is a single tree carved with highlighted polished grain saved in its original form. The one tree spans nearly across the entire downstairs then into the entrance doors. Above the bar is the in-­
describable semi-­transparent abalone petal shells chandelier that was hand strung and constructed on location. This inimitable dining room’s walls feature real bamboo overlay and interlays. While downstairs and saying goodbye, I heard about their back room with a giant sea urchin ceiling made of dried giant sea urchin tentacles/spines and, as a diver, insisted on returning to see it. Every inch of the restaurant and bar design was exemplary in detail. Each tile was measured out to the millimeter and the bam-­
boo was interlaced in the smoked glass, as well. Being at Nobu Fifty Seven is comparable to going to an exotic art gallery open-­
ing with drinks, enhanced by a glorious array of specialty dishes. Most famous, of course, are signature Nobu dishes of Black Cod Miso, Yellow Tail Jalapeno, and Wagyu New Style. Nobu Fifty Seven, similar to the rest of the Nobu family of restaurants, is an exceptionally planned business model with unsurpassed execu-­
tion of product.
-­ By Perry Edwards
Next Month’s Issue of
NEW YORK
FOOD REVIEW
Featuring:
-­ CHALLENGES OF A KOSHER KITCHEN
-­ UNIVERSITY DINING SERVICES
-­ HEALTHCARE FACILITY DINING SERVICES
-­ EMAIL BLAST MARKETING
New York Food Review
Empire State Building
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New York, NY 10118
Visit the New York City Department of Health
& Mental Hygiene website for Restaurant
Inspection information:
http://www.nyc.gov/html/doh/html/rii
Also look for latest Health Code Changes
Required signs for food service operators
and workers
QUIZ
DO YOU KNOW YOUR
EQUIPMENT?
QUIZ
DO YOU KNOW YOUR NUMBERS?
State the importance of the following values:
165ºF ____________________
70ºF
____________________
140ºF ____________________
180ºF
____________________
115ºF ____________________
170ºF
____________________
41ºF
2 Hours ____________________
____________________