February, 2015 Dear Friends, Because there

February, 2015
Dear Friends,
Because there have been countless pieces written about Charlie Trotter, and even more
rumors and stories, I have intentionally waited a few years before sharing some of my own
experiences. In the early winter of 1992 I was feverishly trying to complete my vineyard work
in time to shower, change, and board a flight for my very first out of state trip to market
wine. I could not have been more ‘green’.
I was met outside baggage claim by one of my distributor reps who immediately expressed
concern that we were headed to Trotter’s and I did not have a sport coat. When I innocently
inquired, “What’s Trotter’s” his worry gave way to astonishment.
Upon entering the restaurant I did start to feel uncomfortably out of place. Patrons were
dressed quite formally. The staff was elegant and impeccable. My fellows were all in stylish
suits. Fortunately, there would be little time to reflect on this incongruity. I was promptly
introduced to Larry Stone, the already renowned Sommelier. Larry kindly dismissed the
hostess who was handing me a ‘lender’ coat and tie, explaining, “No need where we’re
headed.” We sipped Champagne as he led us up stairs to an isolated table of our own. Larry
left us a wine list and said that while he thought we might enjoy perusing, he hoped we’d let
him select the wines that night. We all expressed our genuine enthusiasm for this direction
and Larry said it would work perfectly with the plan to have Chef orchestrate our meal.
If not for one detail, the magnum opus that followed would have been one of the most
delightful dining experiences of my life. As new as I was to the marketing side of wine, I did
know that in our trade there is a long held tenet regarding winery meals with distributors:
the supplier always pays. There were 8 in our party, and I was the one supplier. I had only
recently started to allow myself an appetizer and an entrée when eating out. My ‘winery’- a
very young vineyard and a handful of barrels full of wine and high hopes housed in a custom
crush facility, did not even have a modest budget for sales. I barely had anything to sell. As
the servers replaced the vintage champagne with grand cru Chablis, then Condrieu, and
seemingly limitless bottles of superlative red wines from around the world all paired with
some of the best courses I’ve enjoyed anywhere and personally served and described by
Charlie himself, I, unfortunately, couldn’t help but do a little speculative accounting. I’d
seen the wine list and had a pretty good idea what ‘fine work’ we were all doing on that end.
Since we had not been given menus I could not keep myself from making some cursory
estimates and multiplying by 8 as the first few courses deliciously and magnificently came
and went. I quickly concluded that even if Illinois suddenly became the focus of my
production, it would take years of sales to cover the cost of this dinner. That’s when the
magic of good sense and wine came to my rescue. I realized that there was no stopping this
8575 ORCUTT ROAD, ARROYO GRANDE, CA 93420 USA
TEL: (805) 546-0305
FAX: (805) 546-9879
meal and there was no end in sight. Fighting it wasn’t even an option and the wine
convinced me that I should go ahead and enjoy this sublime and utterly unanticipated event.
Putting all concern behind me, I did exactly what any of you would have done. I opened my
ears, eyes, and mouth to this once in a lifetime evening. Charlie’s description of each plate
was pure and devoid of hyperbole. As every course was cleared, he had poignant but entirely
unintimidating questions about the dishes we’d just consumed. Without ever feeling like we
were being ‘instructed’ we were privy to a wonderfully hedonistic Socratic master class in
how to be a foodie; a term I had heard for the first time that evening. Charlie would ask what
we liked best about a course, how it was different from our previous experiences of the same
ingredient- questions you couldn’t actually get ‘wrong’. He would then tell us to what he
attributed the difference- the farming or location of produce, the breed of animal and how it
was raised, and certainly the preparation. The obsessiveness of sourcing was a tremendous
‘next step’ in American cuisine and well beyond the many localized expressions one
frequently encounters. In explaining the cooking, he would work back from what we most
appreciated about the dish. I could tell that everything was far more laborious and
complicated than anything I would ever attempt- let alone the fact that I couldn’t have ever
conceived the basic ideas. But once explained, it all made sense. There was a reason for
everything. It was intentionally delicious.
With well over a dozen courses and enough wine to help numb me as the evening reached
conclusion, I prepared to pay the piper. Charlie came out to the table one last time and
graciously inquired, “Is there anything else I might get you?” I offered a silent little prayer
that everyone was finished. What more could anyone possibly want? My worries on that
level were moot: all were beyond sated. Hearing our last bits of lavish and well deserved
praise along with confirmation that we were ready to call it a night, Charlie inhaled slowly,
put his hands softly together in front of his chest, cocked his head to one side and said
something I knew I would remember the rest of my life, “I want to thank you for spending
this evening with me as my guests. I am taking care of your dinner: there will be no check.”
On one level it was all I could do not to wrap my arms around him and gush “Thank You!”
As much as I felt like a guy who’d consumed his last meal and out of nowhere the Governor
calls with a stay and pardon, my mind quickly turned to the question of ‘why’ and what
could I learn from this wildly unwarranted demonstration of hospitality and generosity.
To this day I can’t tell you how this happened. I do want to stress that I am sincerely certain
it wasn’t ‘for’ or ‘about’ me. Charlie and one of my dinner companions were longtime friends.
Even so, there never was, nor do I think there ever can be any real explanation. Over the
next couple decades I was blessed with multiple opportunities to thank Charlie. I never
missed out on a single one. Try as I might, I don’t think I ever successfully communicated
how much his interest and consideration that evening affected my life.
Charlie was an inestimably important leader in the emergence of American culinary arts. He
set a level of expectation and execution that opened the eyes of foodies and chefs alike. I am
a big believer that the people who recognize and demonstrate that a product can be much
more than patrons or producers previously envisioned are the true visionaries and heroes of
their trade. With heightened understanding, consumers then demand and appreciate this
previously unimagined level of performance; an infectious and irreversible evolution in craft.
A few months after that tasting, Larry Stone wrote a review of our inaugural 1991 Viognier
for the Tribune and put the wine on Trotter’s list; I felt as if Charlie was whispering, “I believe
in you.” Accordingly, this offering begins with our 23rd vintage- 2013 Estate Viognier, and
marks more than two decades of persistent efforts to grow and improve. It is also a first
glimpse into this widely heralded vintage. Rich, layered, and textured, with peach and pear it
remains our goal to stay true to the hedonistic heart of Viognier and to the love of purity that
is at the core of Alban Vineyards. Each year I feel we get closer to where those intersect.
My fall letters typically wax reminiscent; I write them soon after completing harvest and thus
conclude a protracted period of second guessing, historical framework, and constant effort to
apply lessons of the past to the unique potential of the fruit just crushed. Previously I have
mentioned that for me, it’s all about the finish. That last experience and persistent reminder
that can make you grin, smack, and decide, “Man, I need some more of that…” From the
earliest stages of harmonizing, the 2010 vintage had the same refrain in all my notes:
surprising length. Lorraine 2010 has all the deep fruits, texture, aromatics, and volume you
expect but for me it all gets overshadowed by the finish. The structure and harmony of the
wine just don’t hint at what’s to come: a long, pure, elegant end that doesn’t…
2010 Seymour’s, like its predecessors, is a challenge to grasp at this point. My early notes
include statements like, “…all over the place.” This wine is an exotic mix of spice,
flamboyant aromatics, smoke, tar, and flower infused black fruits. True to its namesake, this
wine is all about the complex incorporation of substantial time with a big mix of experiences.
The original Seymour, my father, turned 90 a few months ago and continues to celebrate
each day. He recently opened the 2004 Seymour’s while travelling with friends. He texted
me the next day that he thought it was right in its prime. He also wanted me to know that
he still doesn’t believe he looks anywhere close to as old as the guy pictured on the label.
In conclusion, I want to tell you once more how very much we appreciate your enthusiastic
notes, pictures, quips, and musings. We try to reply whenever possible, and love the rare
moments when we get to share a glass in person. Should any of you find yourselves in the
smoky mountains of Tennessee, Lorraine and I will be at the magnificent Blackberry Farm for
Hospice Du Rhone, April 30-May 3, 2015. I hope y’all can join us. Blackberry is a very
special place.
On behalf of our team, I can relate that we truly enjoy making these wines for you. It is a
privilege that we take to heart. With warm regards,
John and Lorraine Alban
Our offering for you is 2010 Lorraine (145.00), 2010 Seymour’s (145.00), and 2013 Estate Viognier (48.00)-all
750ml. While our production is limited, for everyone submitting an order by Friday, March 6, we will do our
best to satisfy your request. Please visit http://www.albanvineyards.com/order to make your purchase
online. You are also welcome to mail, scan, or fax us your wishes using this form. The final allotments are a
function of what Mother Nature provides, and your seniority on our list. Please provide your email address so
we may confirm your order.
SHIPPING AND TAXES FOR ALL PURCHASES AS FOLLOWS:
CA, AZ and NV: 15.00 up to two bottles; 2.00 additional per bottle thereafter. Local sales tax will be added to
CA shipments.
CO, NM, OR, WA, WY: 30.00 up to two bottles, 5.00 additional per bottle thereafter.
AK, AL (with permit), DC, FL, GA, HI, IA, IL, LA, MD, ME, MI, MN, MO, NC, NJ, OH, TX, VA, WI, WV:
38.00 up to two bottles, 7.00 additional per bottle thereafter. NY please add 8.75% state tax.
I _________________________________ acknowledge that I am over 21 years of age; and have, on occasion,
(Please print name)
shown up for dinner under dressed. I authorize up to (see above) $______________for:
_______bottles Lorraine ’10;
1 or 2
_______Seymour’s ’10;
1 or 2
_______Estate Viognier ’13
2, 3, 4, 6
Please mail this form to: Alban Vineyards, 8575 Orcutt Rd., Arroyo Grande, CA 93420 -or- fax to 805 546 9879.
You are welcome to send a check, or
Circle: Visa/MC# _______________________________________________Expiration___________________
ESSENTIAL 3 digit Code: _______Billing Zip Code: ______________ Signature: ________________________
Weather permitting, we will ship your wines the week of March 23, 2015. Because we cannot control the
vagaries of shipping, we must have an address where someone will certainly be available to receive and
protect these ‘perishables’- ideally a business. Please ship to:
Company/Name: __________________________________________Phone:_______________________________
Address: _______________________________________________Bldg/Floor/Suite: _______________________
City: _____________________State_______Zip__________Email:_______________________________________
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For mailing address changes or to submit this order, please email ([email protected])
THANK YOU