Owner`s Manual

Owner’s Reference Manual
and
Vehicle Specifications
Owners: Dick and Trudy Raymond
Spokane, Washington
Designer/builder: Dick Raymond
Table of Contents
System or component
Page
History of the car .........................................................................................................................1
Engine ..........................................................................................................................................7
Transmission................................................................................................................................9
Rear End and Drive Line ...........................................................................................................10
Fuel/Engine Management..........................................................................................................11
Front Suspension .......................................................................................................................12
Brakes ........................................................................................................................................13
Electrical and Instrumentation...................................................................................................14
Cooling Systems ........................................................................................................................15
Wheels and Tires .......................................................................................................................16
Miscellaneous Systems..............................................................................................................17
Wiring Diagrams
i
History of the Car
The Original Build
Acquisition. I purchased the car in December 1991, for $984. It had 100,403 miles on the odometer,
and was stock. The clutch didn’t work (bad slave cylinder), the convertible top was in sorry shape, the
seats were ratty, but the rest of the car was good. It had no rust, and had never been wrecked.
Unfortunately, it was painted shit-brindle brown, with matching interior.
I had already planned to put a different engine in it, so I sold the stock 4-banger and 5-speed
transmission. I then purchased a kit from John’s Cars, Dallas TX, for installing a 3.8 liter (231 cubic
inch) Buick V6 and GM 700R4 automatic transmission. I modified the engine a bit – larger cam;
higher compression pistons; 4-bbl manifold and carburetor; headers – and installed a manual kit in the
transmission valve body for controlling the lockup converter. The kit eliminated all the electrical
controls to the transmission.
After I got the car running and back on the street, I was really disappointed. The car had absolutely no
guts – it was like taking off in second gear. The car should have been quite responsive – the engine
should have been making over 200 horsepower. Well, this is when I got my introduction to torque
converters, and how critical they are to the performance of any vehicle. While I knew what torque
converters were for, I didn’t appreciate just how they must be matched to the engine/transmission/rear
end/vehicle weight combination.
Torque Converters – What You Were Always Afraid to Ask. It can be generalized that it is desirable
for the stall speed of the torque converter to match the engine’s maximum torque-producing RPM.
What with the cam I had installed, I’m guessing the V6 was making its torque somewhere around 2500
RPM. However, the transmission and torque converter I was using came out of a 1983 GMC 5.7 liter
diesel pickup. Now, diesels make a lot of torque at a fairly low RPM. Recall that my engine was
probably making its torque – considerably less than the diesel “torque monster” – at around 2500
RPM. The fact that my overall gearing was quite low – the 700R4 has a fairly low (high, numerically)
first gear; the stock TR7 rear end ratio was fairly low, at 3.45; the tires were 24” diameter – meant that
my engine/torque converter combination didn’t have a prayer. In fact, I was observing the flash stall to
be somewhere around 1000 RPM! No wonder it felt like I was launching in second gear.
I then purchased a torque converter for a 3.8 liter turbo Regal, and this combination was markedly
better. Now, the converter was stalling at around 1800 RPM, but still nowhere close to my engine’s
torque curve. I then purchased a 10-inch TCI torque converter that, when installed behind a small
block Chevy in a passenger car was advertised as having a 3500 RPM stall. I figured that with my
weight, gearing and torque potential this combination would probably stall somewhere below 3000
RPM. In fact, it ended up stalling at about 2500 RPM – right where my engine was making its torque.
This, then, was the proper combination for me.
Shifting – A Whole Other Matter. Getting the stall right is only part of the battle. Getting the shifting
right is another matter. The diesel’s governor simply wasn’t hacking it. I purchased a governor for a
Camaro, and that helped. After messing with the springs, I got it almost right. However, I ended up
installing the governor out of a Corvette, and that did the trick.
-1-
With everything finally dialed in, the car was quite responsive, and I was getting 26 MPG on the road
– not bad. The overdrive transmission really is the ticket. The car was very fun to drive, and after I
installed some Cobra-style white body stripes, it was a real head turner.
The Second Build
From the Sublime to the Ridiculous. Notwithstanding the real fun of the V6-powered TR7, after awhile
I got tired of being able to smoke only one tire, so I started planning another build. This time, I was
determined to put in a built, fuel injected small block Chevy V8 and a posi-traction rear end.
Installing a Chevy V8 into a TR7 is not uncommon. However, most of the builds I had read about
involved carbureted engines with the normal small block distributor position at the back of the block.
In order to use this configuration, it is required that the fresh air duct be pitched – the distributor
interferes with it. I wanted to keep the fresh air duct, so I began my research.
I finally settled on the Generation 2 small block Chevy LT1. This 350 cubic inch engine has a very low
profile – the intake manifold is very compact – and the distributor is located at the front of the engine,
like a pancake between the block and the water pump. Both the distributor and the water pump are
driven off the cam – the distributor directly off the front of the cam, and the water pump off a camdriven gear. Later, I discovered that the LT1 was about two inches narrower than the Buick V-6. Not
bad.
The Gen 2 LT1 was first introduced in the 1992 Corvette, and was later used in the Camaros, Firebirds,
Caprices, and some others. My engine is the 1995 version, and the optispark distributor (some people
call them the opticrap) is the factory upgraded version that employs a continuous air bleed through it,
to vent any condensation. This had been a problem in the 1992 version of the LT1.
The LT1 also introduced the reverse flow concept for cooling. Unlike a “conventional” engine, the
LT1 coolant flows first through the heads, and then to the block, and then back to the radiator. By
doing so, the GM engineers were able to accomplish two important things: (1) better cooling of the
combustion chambers allowed them to increase compression and timing, and still not have a detonation
problem with pump gas, and (2) the cylinder bores run hotter and more uniform, thus reducing piston
ring friction. These and other modifications allowed the LT1 to put out significantly more horsepower
– about 20% – than the 1991 models. Again, not bad.
Another great thing about the LT1 is that it has a roller cam. This allowed the engineers to get a bit
more aggressive with the cam profile, and increase durations, etc. The stock LT1 has 90% of its torque
available from around 1000 RPM all the way up to its red-line at a bit under 6000 RPM. Incredible! I
installed full roller rockers with a larger, 1.6:1 ratio, and further juiced the engine a bit – see the
accompanying specs.
Installing the “Brute”. Installing the LT1 V-8 was pretty standard stuff. After mocking up the
installation with the stock LT1, and (hopefully) allowing enough clearance for the then unknown
intake setup – I wanted everything to fit under the hood and also clear the fresh air duct – I fabricated
the front mounts (I re-used the John’s cars transmission mount) and dropped the mother in. I got a
Sanderson Headers catalog to see if I could get something to work without going to full custom
headers. The Sanderson catalog is great – it has dimensions and everything. Well, to my surprise I was
able to use a standard header from Sanderson’s lineup, and they fit PERFECTLY, clearing all the usual
headache spots with ease.
-2-
After cramming the engine in (it actually is 2-inches narrower than the Buick V-6) I scoped out the
radiator installation, and sketched something I thought would work. I got with an outfit in Ohio –
StreetRodStuff (SRS), which among a multitude of other goodies handles aluminum radiators
manufactured by Performance Rod and Custom – and had my custom aluminum radiator fabricated. It
is mounted low and tilted in my car, in order to maximize size and provide room inside the engine
compartment.
The rear end installation was also straightforward. I purchased a Firebird rearend at the local bone yard
and had a local hot rod shop narrow the housing and furnish narrowed, beefed-up axles. I reused the
mounting brackets that I had washed off of my stock TR7 rearend, and then welded them onto the
Firebird rearend.
The Chassis Dyno – a Love/Hate Relationship. After I completed the LT1 installation, I performed the
preliminary setup of the Accel Engine Management System, and the engine fired on the first attempt.
However, I heard a very noticeable howling sound, and I shut the engine down immediately to see
what was going on. It had sounded like perhaps a dry alternator bearing, so I removed the alternator
drive belt, and when I restarted the engine, the sound was still there. After reading the Accel
instructions again, they mentioned that with a cold engine, there will be a noticeable howling sound
made by the induction air going sonic past the idle control circuit – whew, my engine wasn’t
disintegrating! I re-installed the alternator drive belt and ran the engine for a quick 20-minute break-in.
After checking and addressing a few items, I then drove the car for a couple of weeks around town to
help seal everything up.
I had already made arrangements to have the car dialed in by Blood Enterprises in Auburn,
Washington. They had sold me the Accel unit, plus a bunch of other engine goodies. Craig Blood is
actually a beta tester/developer for Accel, so I was interested in having him “do his thing” on the
engine. Craig suggested I haul the car to his shop, because not knowing the state of the tune on the
engine, he wanted to make sure the car didn’t lean out going over the mountain pass between Eastern
Washington and Western Washington. My brother-in-law was gracious enough to bring his car trailer
over, and we set out early on a September morning for Auburn.
When we arrived at Blood Enterprises, we immediately ran the car onto the dyno, and Craig started his
work. There’s something unnerving when you sign a waiver to the effect that if the engine blows up on
the dyno, the shop is held harmless. No kidding – that’s a really sobering moment in your life, when
you hear the engine screaming at 6000 RPM, and you mentally go through your build. Did I remember
to correctly tighten the rods? What about the oil pump? Did I use the correct valve springs? Happily,
the engine held together and Craig finished his work for the day. Then we left the car there, to return
the following day when the engine would be cold, so that Craig could perform the cold-start/warm up
tune.
Afterward, we took the car out for a test drive, and I was a bit disappointed. The car wasn’t shifting
correctly – it wasn’t downshifting into passing gear. Even so, it was really, really “peppy”. There was
no contest between the Buick V-6 and this Chevy 350 LT1 V-8.
The final dyno numbers showed 260 HP at the rear wheels. This REALLY disappointed me. I just
knew that with everything I had done to the engine, it ought to be making upward of 325-350 HP at the
rear wheels – well better than the ‘90s-vintage Corvette. Craig said not to worry, that it was plenty
stout.
-3-
For the major inaugural drive, I drove the car back to Spokane from Auburn, a trip of about 280 miles.
It was uneventful. However, when I got home, I felt like I’d been hit by a Mack truck. I realized that I
had not relaxed at all during the drive home, what with constantly listening for odd noises, etc. My
brother-in-law had followed me back with the trailer, just in case, so that helped a bit with the nerves.
Still, I couldn’t get the horsepower and transmission anomalies out of my mind. I was not happy
thinking that I was going to have to dial the transmission in all over again. And, what was going on in
the power department? What a drag.
The Current Build
Out With the 700R4. When I installed the LT1 engine, I originally kept the 700R4 automatic, but with
the added horsepower and torque of the LT1, the shifting was a bit sluggish and imprecise, as
mentioned above. I did not want to go through the whole mechanical recalibrating thing again, so I
purchased a 4L60E computer controlled overdrive automatic at the bone yard and then had the
transmission freshened up and beefed a bit at a local transmission shop.
The 4L60 transmission was based on the 700R4 overdrive automatic, and came in two versions. The
version I purchased is the earlier version, which in all practicality has the same one-piece integral case
as the 700R4 (except, of course that the 4L60E has no provisions for a throttle valve cable or
governor), and identical mounting dimensions. There is another, newer version that is a bit beefier and
has a separate bellhousing. However this version has different mounting dimensions, and requires a
different starter. The earlier version was by far the easiest way to go. The transmission swap was very
straightforward, and went without a hitch.
The Joy of Electronic Transmissions. To control the transmission, I purchased a transmission control
unit (TCU) manufactured by Fuel Air Spark Technology (FAST) for TCI Automotive. This unit is
laptop-programmable. The TCU controls all of the shifting functions, including torque converter
lockup. You can literally dial in the part-throttle shifts, wide open throttle shifts, line pressures (shift
firmness), and a number of other parameters, which made adapting the transmission to my unique
combination really, really straightforward and simple.
An Unexpected Benefit. While I was dialing in the TCU, I got some unexpected readings on the
throttle position indicator, not only at closed throttle, but particularly at wide-open throttle. I called
TCI and quizzed their technical folks on it, and they said that my closed throttle readings were normal,
but the wide-open throttle readings were way, way low. They said I should check out the throttle
linkage.
When I took a look at the throttle setup, I was flabbergasted to find that the throttle was hitting one of
the hose-style clamps that hold the induction elbow to the throttle body, preventing the throttle from
going wide-open. As it turns out this, too was the reason the 700R4 hadn’t been downshifting. After
correcting this problem, reading the numbers in the TCU computer and doing the math, I realized that
the engine had made 260 rear-wheel horsepower at around 60% throttle! I’m guessing that the engine
is indeed actually making something around 325-350 HP at the rear wheels, which would equate to
something north of 400 HP at the crank. I hope to verify all this with another chassis dyno session at a
local Spokane facility.
Paddle Shifting – Oh, Yeah. Notably, in addition to the afore-mentioned transmission computer
functions the TCI unit supports a full manual mode. From the start, I had wanted to incorporate some
sort of paddle shifter with my steering wheel to implement the full manual setup. Paddle shifters were
-4-
the newest and greatest technology coming out of the auto industry, and I was eager to somehow
incorporate this state-of-the-art technology into my TR7. However, as I researched and sketched, it
became apparent that to do so would involve a whole lot of work.
One of the more significant stumbling blocks was how to wire the thing up and not have the wires
wrap up around the steering column as the steering wheel was turned. Fabricating some sort of slip
ring didn’t appear readily feasible. So, seeing the handwriting on the wall and not being into self abuse
I fabricated a switch plate that I mounted down by the shifter incorporating (1) an auto/manual selector
switch, (2) a normal/performance selector switch (this increases the line pressures by about 30% for
harder shifts), and (3) a momentary contact single pole double throw toggle switch for up/down
manual shifting. This was fun, but honestly it didn’t really hack it for me. I remained intrigued by the
paddle shifter paradigm.
As mentioned above, when I was scoping out how I might be able to do a paddle shifter, one of the
main problems was the wiring. Some time later while surfing the internet for paddle shifter technology
ideas, I stumbled upon an aftermarket paddle shifter made by Twist Machine LLC, located outside of
New York City on Long Island. What makes Twist Machine’s unit very unique, and readily adaptable
for hot rods is the fact that it is wireless. The paddle shifter itself has a tiny, battery-operated
transmitter that communicates with an under-dash mounted receiver that is hard wired to the TCU for
up and down shifts – very, very cool!
Twist Machine’s unit – they call it the Shrifter – is a custom unit that installs beneath the steering
wheel, like an adapter between the wheel and the column. Because of the unique nature of my vehicle,
I had to machine some custom adapters out of ½-inch aluminum in order to mount the paddle shifter to
my steering wheel hub. Boy, was it worth it – it is so fun to drive that it ought to be illegal.
Other Stuff
Rear Suspension. When planning my build, I decided to use a full GM drive train. I wanted disc brakes
at all four corners, so I purchased a 3.23 positraction disc brake rear end out of a 1995 LT1-equipped
Firebird. In order to use this rear end, I ended up having to narrow it 6-inches symmetrically – 3 inches
on each side. In fact, I understand that it’s easier to install a Ford disc brake rear end, because it
doesn’t need to be narrowed. However, I wanted to stay all GM, so I bit the bullet.
The stock TR7 rear suspension is four link with converging upper arms – they angle from near the
pumpkin outward to the sides of the car in order to provide lateral stability, thus no need for a panhard
rod. The axle tubes were the same as the Firebird, so I washed all the mounting brackets off the old
TR7 rear end and welded them onto the GM unit, making sure to match the pinion angle to the crank
angle. I boxed the lower control arms and used the stock TR7 springs, but added air shocks in order to
be able to “control my destiny” – see below.
Fuel Injection “Quirks”. When running fuel injection, it is important to baffle the fuel pickup. Unlike a
carbureted engine, where there is some fuel reserve in the float bowl(s) to keep the engine running if
the pickup tube sucks air in a turn, the fuel injected engine will simply immediately crap out if it sucks
air; ergo, the requirement for baffling the pickup tube – or, installing a sump. In my case, I designed a
small sump and had a local welding shop install it in the bottom of the tank. The down side of doing so
was that my measurements indicated the rear end would now hit the bottom of the tank at full
suspension travel. Therefore, I fabricated some perches to weld onto the axle tube that were the right
height to engage the stock rubber stops before the rear end contacts the fuel tank – in theory. I’ve
verified the geometry up on the jack stands. However, just in case I installed the air shocks.
-5-
The car has numerous other modifications. The following sections list the pertinent ones, together with
part numbers for future maintenance and repair.
Would I Do It Again?
Probably not. Building this car was (is?) a challenge. I’ve been working on it for 16 years off-and-on.
What I discovered is that if you are trying to hotrod a foreign car, there aren’t a lot of choices out there
when planning the build – deciding what to include or how to do it. It got quite old having to fabricate
so many of the “common” items.
If you want to build a hotrod, then staying with some sort of mainstream domestic car is the way to go.
As an example, if one decides to build a tri-five Chevy, it is literally possible to get EVERY part –
body included – in the aftermarket. Four-wheel discs? No problem, there’s a pre-engineered bolt-on
solution for that. Turbocharged small block Chevy with 6-speed manual transmission? COME ON
DOWN. So, you’re into Mopar? Do we have a deal for you! True, you need deep pockets for those
solutions, but the point is that it is possible to build a really cool hotrod and not even have to break a
sweat when trying to figure out how to do things.
And any more, what with numerous suppliers out there, merely restoring mainstream foreign cars is –
although perhaps to a lesser extent – similar to building or restoring a mainstream domestic car; like
the mainstream domestic restoration/hotrod project, having deep pockets can help produce a truly
beautiful car, at the expense of relatively little mental capital.
Clearly, not everyone has the resources to simply commission the construction of a cool ride or just
willy-nilly go off the deep end ordering neat parts. Many – probably most – hotrodders/restorers spend
lots of hours dreaming, planning, scrounging for new or used parts, and then constructing their rides.
To me, that’s where the satisfaction is.
Building a fuel injected, LT1-powered Triumph TR7 (and, there are a lot of other examples) is a whole
different ball game. What I discovered is that if you want to do it, then you’d better cultivate and
exercise the brain cells and plan on doing a LOT of things yourself...unless, of course you have deep
pockets and can have it done for you. I, along with a lot of others don’t.
The real rub is trying to overcome the tendency to just do it – to hack up a solution. I can’t – won’t –
do that. Consequently, I spent what some certainly might consider an inordinate amount of time trying
to plan the build so that it would be not only functional and fun, but safe and serviceable as well.
Because of my engineering background, something that worked for me was using AutoCAD (actually
Autodsys’ AcceliCAD, a feature-rich true AutoCAD clone that is actually affordable) in order to
design and produce templates from which I could then accurately fabricate the parts I needed.
Now, this TR7 is not a show car – it’s a really, really fun driver. Building a car to a truly show car
level involves an exponential increase in time and money. And for what? Sure, anything is possible,
but for me, I’ll take the driver compromise any time. I’ll bet I get the same amount of “bugs in my
teeth” as those with the show cars. Maybe more.
Am I Satisfied?
YES!
-6-
Engine
Basic engine:......................................sequential, multi-point fuel injected 350 cubic inch 1995
Chevrolet Caprice LT1 police engine. It had about 75,000 miles
on it.
VIN ....................................................1G1BL52P1SR137107
Specifics:
Engine oil capacity: 5 ½ qt
Machine work ....................................Jones Automotive Engines, Spokane WA
· Rotating assembly fully balanced
· Stock 2-bolt crank
· Stock 4-inch bore; no overbore required
Alternator...........................................Stock 140 amp, but with custom mount, requiring a very short
belt. See “alternator drive belt”, below.
Camshaft ............................................LUNATI roller cam: Part #54742; Grind #RRA1-270-279; Serial
#Q1LH. Required the longer LT1 distributor drive pin to be
installed (it came set up for a regular small block Chevy, with the
short pin, even though it was purported to be for an LT1).
Distributor..........................................LT1 Optispark, but with custom inner discs by Blood Enterprises
(Auburn, WA), for working with the ACCEL engine
management system – sequential injection scheme. If repairs are
needed in the future, either this one should be rebuilt, or the
new one needs to be fitted with the custom discs out of this
one.
Alternator drive belt...........................NAPA #25-060340 v-ribbed alternator belt (34-5/8" long – 6
ribs)
Head bolts ..........................................ARP
Head gaskets ......................................FEL-PRO #1074
Valve covers ......................................Moon no-name cast aluminum – finned
Valve cover gaskets ...........................FEL-PRO #1648 (1/4” thick 2-ply cork with steel sandwiched in
between. (Extra thickness is needed to work with the Moon valve
covers – stock rubber ones do not seal)
Header gaskets ...................................Stock GM
Headers ..............................................Sanderson CC-90
Heads .................................................AIR FLOW RESEARCH (AFR) aluminum – 10.5:1
compression; 190 cc runners. Valves: 2.020” intake; 1.600”
exhaust.
Injectors .............................................30 lb/hr Ford #FMS-M9593B302 (Note: Ford rates at 39 psi; GM
rates at 43.5 psi. Therefore, the Ford injectors should
theoretically flow a bit under 32 lb/hr at the GM-rated 43.5 psi)
Intake gaskets.....................................FEL-PRO #1284
Intake manifold sealant......................Special black RTV that came with the FEL-PRO gasket set. I
highly recommend using this particular stuff...it cures rapidly.
Another product, The Right Stuff is also very good.
-7-
Lifters.................................................stock roller.
Rocker arms .......................................COMP CAMS steel – 1.6:1 ratio full roller (stock ratio was 1.5:1)
Push rods............................................Smith Brothers 5/16” OD x .080 wall x 7.200” long, hardened
Motor mounts.....................................FEDERAL MOGUL #2267 (small block Chevy, but non-stock
for LT1)
Oil filter .............................................Remote – NAPA Gold, #1515 (same form factor as Fram PH8A).
The stock engine was set up for a remote cooler, with the filter in
the stock position – attached to the block in the standard Chevy
small block location: at the back, on the driver’s side. Initially, I
did not run an engine oil cooler. Rather, the stock housing that
diverted the oil to the cooler was modified by removing one of
the internal check valves and then machining a custom closure lid
to fit where the filter used to mount. Later, I added a remote
engine oil cooler in series with the external filter.
Engine oil...........................................Mobil 1, 10W-30 full synthetic (5 ½ qt.)
Oil pressure sending unit ...................Jeep (oil pressure gauge and volt meter are out of a Jeep
Cherokee)
Pistons................................................Stock LT1 hypereutectic
Plug wires ..........................................Stock 8mm, but cut to custom lengths, with new spark plug-end
metal attachments and spark plug shields.
Rings ..................................................TOTAL SEAL gapless bottom compression rings; stock top
compression and oil rings.
Spark plugs ........................................AUTOLITE #AP3923 (AC FR3LS or CHAMPION RC9YC are
also recommended by AFR). These are non-stock for the
LT1...do NOT use the stock type of spark plug. You MUST use
a washer-style – not the stock conical seat type – because the
AFR aluminum heads require the washer-type. USE OF
CONICAL SEAT PLUGS WILL DAMAGE THE
HEADS.
Starter.................................................PROFORM mini – COMPETITION SPECIALTIES INC.
#66256
Throttle body .....................................BBK #1543 double 52 mm (stock is 48 mm). Note: the throttle
body was significantly modified by the owner for a custom
throttle cable/cruise control cable attachment. This unit is NOT
usable as a returnable core – it should be repaired as
necessary in the future.
Water pump .......................................Stock, but with hole drilled and tapped in passenger side runner
by owner to accept TR7 temperature gauge sender. This unit is
NOT usable as a returnable core – it should be repaired as
necessary in the future.
Engine Management Computer .........Accel Gen VII DFI Sequential system.
-8-
Transmission
Basic transmission: ............................GM 4L60E computer controlled overdrive automatic; 1996
Camaro.
VIN ....................................................2G1FP22PXT2163889
Specifics:
Governor ............................................None – full computer control
Torque converter lockup....................Computer controlled.
Torque converter................................Stock 1996 Camaro (came with the transmission).
Flex plate ...........................................TCI #399173 heavy duty (there is a custom-fabricated spacer
between the flex plate and the crank. Be sure to keep this,
otherwise there will be occasional interference between the flex
plate and the starter gear – it will make a “ticking” sound very
much like the sound of detonation).
Shifter and console ............................1978 Chevrolet Chevette. Stock shifter detents ground to match
the transmission’s detent positions. Plastic gear indicator bezel
modified to indicate 4 gears. Bottom of console was cut off to
allow it to fit properly in the TR7.
Paddle shifter .....................................Twist Machine LLC, #10062 universal with brushed finish. This
is a wireless unit – transmits to a receiver under the dash. A
custom switch plate was fabricated and is mounted in the
console, for shift mode selections: “manual/automatic” and
“norm/performance”.
Speedometer drive .............................Pulse control from the stock Camaro VSS (vehicle speed sensor)
located on the passenger side of the transmission tail shaft
assembly.
Transmission control unit ..................TCI computer and harness. The harness was significantly
modified – see the wiring diagrams.
-9-
Rear End and Drive Line
Basic rear end: ...................................1995 Firebird 3.23 positraction with disc brakes; narrowed 6”
total (3” per side) by Tim’s Hot Rods.
VIN ....................................................2G2FV22P0S2239961
Specifics:
Brakes, rotors, hoses ..........................stock Firebird
Emergency brake actuation................stock Firebird rear cables and yoke; custom cable attachment
from yoke to TR7 brake handle
Suspension mounts ............................stock TR7 brackets were washed off the TR7 rear end and
welded onto the Firebird rear end. Both had the same size (2-7/8”
diameter?) axle tubes.
Axles ..................................................DUTCHMAN’S – each axle shortened 3”. These utilize the stock
“C” retaining clips at the axle ends inside the differential.
Lower control arms............................modified TR7, boxed
Upper control arms ............................stock TR7
Bushings ............................................urethane; use PERMATEX anti-seize lubricant
Shocks................................................MONROE #MA739 air shocks
Springs ...............................................stock TR7
Rear axle bump stops.........................2” diameter x 2-1/8" high; ENERGY SUSPENSION #99101
Brake hose – body to rear end ...........MERCRUISER # MERC45 stainless (15” long)
Drive line ...........................................custom fabricated steel by Six Robblees’ Inc. (Spokane, WA),
with heavy duty u-joints.
· NEA #2-3011 Saginaw S44 u-joint
· NEA #N3R-28-437 weld end yoke
· NEA #N24-30-42-108 driveline tube (3” OD x .083” wall)
- 10 -
Fuel/Engine Management
Specifics:
Fuel pump ..........................................external electric, WALBRO #GL394 12-volt (approx. 45 gph @
12 volts/45 psi; 55 gph @ 13.5 volts)
Fuel Injectors .....................................see Engine, above.
Fuel pressure regulator ......................adjustable, AEROMOTIVE #13109
Fuel filters..........................................(1) Rear (pre-pump): FRAM #HPG1, 10-micron
(2) Front (post-pump): AEROMOTIVE #AEI-12301, 10-micron
Throttle body .....................................BBK #1543 double 52 mm (stock is 48 mm). Note: the throttle
body was significantly modified by the owner for a custom
throttle cable/cruise control cable attachment. This unit is NOT
usable as a returnable core – it should be repaired as
necessary in the future.
Throttle cable .....................................LOKAR, 36” (It is longer than necessary – a shorter one could be
used)
- 11 -
Front Suspension
Basic struts:........................................stock 1980 TR7.
Specifics:
Strut inserts (shocks)..........................KYB #363015
Upper strut pivot ................................custom needle bearing strut pivot kit from TesRac Enterprises,
Pandora, OH. (TS Imported Automotive).
Shock tower plates .............................Custom 3/16” aluminum with slotted holes for camber
adjustment.
Strut upper adapter plates ..................Custom 3/4” aluminum
Hubs...................................................Basic TR7, but machined by TesRac Enterprises for their “big
bearing conversion”, to accommodate larger outer wheel
bearings.
Wheel bearings ..................................Inner: stock TR7; Timken L44649; outside race L44610
Outer: non-stock; SKF LM11949; outside race LM11910.
Seals (inside, facing strut): NAK 1.500 2.063 .313 1. The outer
race of the spindles are fitted with custom bushings (5/8” long
x approx ¾” OD x approx .030” wall) that were required to
fit the larger inner race bore of the larger outer wheel
bearings that came with the kit). The bushings were installed
with high temp LocTite. To remove, they will need to be heated.
Springs ...............................................Much stiffer than stock. Purchased from TesRac Enterprises.
They are made out of 0.520” diameter wire (stock only being
about 0.475”). The stock spring rate is about 90 lb/in, whereas the
new springs are 125 lb/in.
- 12 -
Brakes
Specifics:
Rear:...................................................Stock GM calipers and rotors – 1995 Firebird 3.23 positraction.
See rear end specs for VIN.
Front:..................................................Calipers: 1984 Volvo 240 DL – RAYBESTOS #RC3440 and
#RC3439 (right and left, respectively). Customized (see notes)
Rotors: 1998 Volvo V70 – RAYBESTOS #F96460. Custom
drilled – see notes below.
Master cylinder and booster...............1994 firebird 2-door coupe with 3.4L V6;
VIN#2G2FS22S1R2221265.
NOTES:
1. The front rotors were drilled by the owner for a 4-bolt pattern, to match and bolt to the TR7 hubs.
Two sheet metal spacer shims are used between the face of the rotor and the mounting face on the hub,
in order to achieve the proper lateral alignment between the caliper and the rotor. Both spacers are
standard sheet metal thicknesses – one is 0.105” thick (12 ga.), and the other is 0.025” thick (24 ga.).
The thinner spacer was constructed with four small, equally spaced tabs about ¼” wide that bend over
into the center hole of the rotor. The specific thickness was chosen because the radial clearance
between the center hole of the Volvo rotor and the mounting boss on the TR7 hub was .025”. Bending
the tabs over into the center hole of the rotor makes the rotor hub-centric to the TR7 hubs.
2. The caliper mounting holes were reamed to move them about ¼” further apart, center to center
(approx 1/8” individual movement). Then, the remaining annular space between the mounting bolt and
the enlarged hole was filled with JB-Weld epoxy. THEREFORE, it is strongly recommended to
rebuild the calipers in the future, if necessary, rather than having to modify a new caliper. These
units can NOT be used as a returnable core.
3. The vacuum booster has been modified by cutting the mounting flange and welding it in a new
position relative to the booster canister, allowing it to mount perpendicular to the firewall, rather than
at an upward angle, as in the Firebird. It is secured to the TR7 firewall using a custom fabricated
angular bracket that offsets the master cylinder from the left spring tower. THEREFORE, it is
strongly recommended to rebuild the booster in the future, if necessary, rather than having to
modify a new booster.
- 13 -
Electrical and Instrumentation
Specifics:
Battery................................................OPTIMA #8002-002 Model 34
Starter solenoid ..................................remote – Borg Warner #S320
Battery cutoff switch..........................custom fabricated by owner to mount onto battery terminal, by
using a standard battery cutoff switch with threaded studs, and a
quick connector that mounts to the battery terminal.
Stop light switch ................................Echlin #SL169 (for Buick, Cadillac, etc.) This is a sealed, snapaction switch, and is a direct replacement for the comical stock
Lucas switch. Even the stock Lucas mounting nuts work on the
Echlin switch. All that is required is to create a flat along the
length of one side of the switch by filing off the threads (it’s a
plastic body, so it’s easy).
Instrumentation ..................................1. Oil pressure: 1987 Jeep, with Jeep sending unit
2. Volt meter: 1987 Jeep
3. Fuel: stock TR7, but with needle painted red
4. Engine coolant temp: stock TR7, but with needle painted red
5. Transmission fluid temp: 2-1/16” Stewart-Warner #114284
6. Engine oil temp: 2-1/16” Stewart-Warner #114266
7. Air/fuel ratio: 2-1/16” Stewart-Warner #114900
8. Speedometer: 160 mph electric; 3-3/8” Stewart-Warner
#114703
9. Tachometer: 3-3/8” Stewart-Warner #114106
NOTES: To install the speedometer and tach, I fabricated custom nacelles out of plastic pipe
couplings. This required cutting elliptical holes in the stock curved, clear plastic instrument cluster
cover in order for the nacelles to stick out from the instrument cluster.
- 14 -
Cooling Systems
Specifics:
System coolant capacity: 4 ¾ gallons
Radiator..............................................aluminum, manufactured by PRC (Performance Rod and Custom,
Boonville, Indiana). This unit was custom fabricated to
dimensions provided by the owner (see below)
Radiator hoses....................................upper: NAPA #7727
lower: NAPA #8870
Note: The hoses in the car are custom lengths, cut from the
stock NAPA molded hoses listed above. The ends of the hoses
were cut off at appropriate places in order to create the final
shapes/lengths for the installation. When replacing, use the
existing hoses as templates.
Radiator fan .......................................16” diameter electric pusher; Flex-a-lite #FLX-119.
Radiator fan controls..........................controlled by the Accel engine management computer and relay
Makeup tank ......................................stock TR7 brass unit, but moved to the driver’s side of the engine
compartment.
Engine coolant thermostat .................160 degree F (highly recommended; this is non-stock – stock is
180 degree.)
Engine oil cooler................................B&M fluid cooler #70265
Trans fluid cooler (primary) ..............B&M fluid cooler #70265
Trans fluid cooler (secondary)...........Tru-Cool #M7B (similar to B&M#70270)
Secondary trans cooler fan.................8” diameter electric puller; Derale #16508
Secondary fan controls ......................Derale #16739
- 15 -
Wheels and Tires
Specifics:
Lug nut torque: 100 ft-lb
Wheels ...............................................Liquidmetal “Static” (silver color)
· Rear: 18”x 8.5” with 45mm offset (73mm center bore)
· Front: 16”x 7” with 38mm offset (73mm center bore)
(each wheel requires hub centering ring: 73mm x 70.3mm)
Tires ...................................................Federal SS595
· Rear: 255/35ZR-18 (rating: 90W; 832 rev/mile)
· Front: 205/45R-16 (rating: 83V)
Front spacers/adapters .......................custom fabricated steel. These are 2-piece units that provide the
necessary spacing in order to use the front-wheel drive style of
wheel (has much more offset), and also to convert from the 4-bolt
TR7 spindle to the 5-bolt GM pattern. They are hub-centric. See
drawing below.
- 16 -
Miscellaneous Systems
Exhaust side pipes..............................3-inch diameter; Patriot # PTE-H1050.
- 17 -
Wiring Diagrams
Diagram:
- 18 -
Wiring Diagram Legend
- 19 -