China`s new dawn India`s coffee- flavoured
Transcription
China`s new dawn India`s coffee- flavoured
POLITICS BUSINESS China’s new dawn India’s coffeeflavoured romance LIFESTYLE Transgenders seek acceptance Novem b e r 16-29, 2012 Kawaii Adventures US$3 / Bt100 ISSN 19052650 9 771905 265009 32621 32621 At work I don’t have a choice of where I sit But with Star Alliance Upgrade Awards Across 20 of our member airlines worldwide Now I do. I’ve earned it. Tak u m a Sato I n ternat ional raci ng d ri ver and Star A l l ian ce Gol d Statu s staral l ian ce.com ASIA NEWS NETWORK 21 newspapers in 18 countries—covering Asia for 13 years W e K n o w A s i a B e t t e r Nov emb er 16-29 , 2012 • V o l 7 No 2 3 EXPLORE 44 Kawaii Adventures More than sushi, ramen and samurai, Japan is also the land of cute VIEW 6 POLITICS 20 SOCIETY 26 LIFESTYLE 34 Rebalancing Of Power Obama’s visit firms up US’ policy on Asia China’s New Dawn Hope springs eternal but will the country’s new leaders bring about real change? Unravelling The Pain Fear, insecurity haunt Buddhists in Bangladesh In Pursuit Of Acceptance Transgender beauties from 15 countries hope to promote recognition of the third gender ECONOMY 8 Onto The Stage Of Global Trade With its entry to the WTO, Laos embarks on the steep path of reform BUSINESS 10 India’s Love Affair With Coffee The aromatic brew is making inroads into the world’s biggest consumer of tea SPECIAL REPORT 12 Poised For An Energy Revolution Southeast Asia leads in adopting cutting-edge renewable energy technologies TECHNOLOGY 28 Digital Privacy Divide Technology is fuelling the debate over what is public, and what is private F E AT U R E S PEOPLE 38 The Leong Way To Cook A culinary guru runs a world-class boot camp for the next best chef HEALTH 30 The Perfect Cure Thailand succeeds in stem-cell research despite lack of funding COVE R IM AG E | Yo s hi k a z u TSUN O/AFP PHOTO Copyright © 2006 of Asia News Network. All rights reserved. AsiaNews (ISSN 1905-2650) is a weekly magazine. Printed by WPS (Thailand) Co, Ltd Subsidiary of Nation Multimedia Group Plc. WRITE, FAX, EMAIL Please include sender’s name and address to: [email protected] | Asia News Network Nation Multimedia Group Plc 1854 Bangna-Trad Road (Km 4.5), Bangna, Bangkok 10260 Thailand.Tel: (662)338 3333 Fax: (662)338 3964 Subscription inquries: Nation Multimedia Group Plc 1854 Bangna-Trad Road (Km 4.5), Bangna, Bangkok 10260 Thailand.Tel: (662)338 3333 Call Center: (662)338 3000 press 1 Fax: (662)338 3964 The View By Kavi Chongkittavor n The Nation Rebalancing Of Power Obama’s visit firms up US’ policy on Asia ❖❖ Bangkok Ro byn Beck /AF P Photo F reshly re-elected US President Barack Obama’s visit to Thailand, Myanmar and Cambodia is an extremely important step to firm up his Asia-Pacific policy, often described as a “pivot” to the region. The stopover will embed the US presence and future power projection in the region in the context of China’s rising influence. It will also turn Asean into an arena where the world’s two superpowers can cajole, cooperate and compete. O b a m a w i l l b e c o m e t h e fi r s t American leader to visit half of the Asean members during his first term. Vietnam could have been included in the itinerary this time but it was deliberately left out. Otherwise, the whole visit could easily be construed as a concerted effort to counter China’s growing influence. Despite the media spin that the US engagement with Asean comes at the region’s repeated request, the rise of China and its growing confidence remains a major focus, if not obsession, of the US rebalancing in the Asia-Pacific. Certainly, the historic trip has zeroed in on the three Asean members with special relations with China. The visit to Bangkok is expected to concentrate on reinvigorating Thai-US relations, especially the faltering Thai-US military alliance and its place in the new strategic environment in the region. Apart from the PSI cooperation, the US hopes to revitalise military cooperation with Thailand, one of the five US allies in the Asia-Pacific. Other US allies and friends such as Singapore and Vietnam have linked with each other as part of the new 6• strategists have in mind. China is also an observer of the annual exercise, along with Brunei, Laos, the Netherlands, Russia, South Africa, Sri Lanka and the United Arab Emirates. Last December, Myanmar, Thailand, Laos and China began US President Barack to coordinate security paObama waves after trols of the Mekong River, winning the 2012 US which runs through their presidential election. countries. It was hailed as the first multilateral security force initiated by China. Lower US strategic balancing framework. riparian countries Vietnam and ∞∞Close ties with China Cambodia did not take part. Rubbing salt into the wound, Obama’s last stop is Cambodia. Thailand’s close relations with Chi- Cambodia is the current Asean chair na and high tolerance of its asser- and host of the 7th East Asia Sumtiveness have further confounded mit (EAS). Akin to the rapidly imUS decision-makers. As the coordi- proved US-Myanmar relations, nating country for Asean-China re- China-Cambodia friendship has lations (2012-2015), especially at a blossomed in the past 12 years, turntime when the South China Sea ing China into the country’s largest territorial disputes are high on the aid donor and investor. Since joining agenda, Thailand’s behaviour to- the EAS, Washington has skilfully ward China would always be friend- used the Asean-led multilateral sely and reciprocal. Bangkok’s close curity platform to its advantage ties with Beijing have ironically in- under the Obama administration. creased Naypyitaw’s strategic value As the EAS chair, Cambodian for the US. Myanmar’s ability to say Prime Minister Hun Sen plays an no to China over the Myitsone Dam important role in overseeing the in Kachin state late last year dem- direction of discussion among the onstrated its desire to distance itself leaders, who tend to speak off the from China’s dominance and lessen cuff. The region’s longest-reigning the dependency on Beijing it had leader must avoid a repeat of the built up over the past three decades. highly embarrassing incident at That kind of clear action and the Asean foreign ministers meetpolicy has steered the US to move ing in Phnom Penh in July. With faster to normalise relations with several overlapping areas in the Myanmar, which was once branded headlines, everything the attendand condemned as a pariah state by ing leaders and chair say or do at the US and the West. The Thein Sein the EAS will impact on the sumgovernment has responded well to mit’s outcome and its future direcUS demands in the past several tion. Asean must be neutral at the months. Washington’s invitation to EAS forum, as this will be the most Naypyitaw to join the Cobra Gold effective way for the grouping to war games as an observer next year eventually manage its relations sends a clear signal of what the US with the US and China. November 16-29, 2012 ECONOMY By The Nation Ranking among the poorest countries in Asia, Lao local markets have been flooded with products from its neighbouring countries like China, Vietnam and Thailand. Hoang D in h Nam/A F P P hoto Onto The Stage Of Global Trade With its entry to the WTO, Laos embarks on the steep path of reform 8• ❖❖ Bangkok L aos is set to become fully integrated with the global economy after the World Trade Organisation (WTO) accepted the “least-developed” country’s application for membership. Laos’ entry to the world trade-governing body is wel- comed: It paves the way to transition for one of the world’s leastdeveloped countries onto the stage of global trade. The communist country was finally accepted as a member 15 years after it first applied to join the WTO. “Laos has come a long way since it embarked on the road to membership in 1997,” said WTO director November 16-29, 2012 general Pascal Lamy. “This is never easy for any least-developed country, and Laos’ first steps were slow, but it is now seriously reforming its economy and its institutions, and has shown skill in its membership negotiation.” The Laos National Assembly will ratify the negotiation process in December before a final 30-day wait, after which Laos will be an official member of the WTO, the Lao Ministry of Industry and Commerce said. Laos will then have access to the markets of the other 157 WTO member-countries. The WTO entry will further encourage an economic reform process that is essential to the country’s future prosperity and ability to attract foreign trade and investment. Membership should also help ensure Laos abides by global rules of trade, with the international trade body able to hold the country’s delegates to account through its process for settling disputes. The entry is another important step for Laos, which has been an active member of the Association of Southeast Asian Nations (Asean) and the Asean Free Trade Area (Afta), and will become a member of the Asean Economic Community (AEC) on its launch in 2015. Laos was also the host of the 9th Asia-Europe Meeting Summit on November 5 and 6. Integration with Asean should be the perfect platform for the global launch of a Lao economy whose steady growth rate reached 8 per cent last year, propelled partly by closer trade ties with other countries in the region. ∞∞Meeting challenges Vientiane deserves praise for achieving economic reforms in line with WTO requirements. The communist government’s reform process stretched beyond passing new laws. “In a country like Lao PDR, the accession process was not limited to changing some laws and regulations. We had to change our way November 16-29, 2012 of doing business,” said Deputy Prime Minister and Foreign Minister Thongloun Sisoulith. “Such a mindset creates a difficult and time-consuming exercise.” Since 2000, Laos has passed more than 90 new laws, amendments, decrees and regulations relating to trade. In line with WTO rules, maximum tariffs have been set at 19.3 per cent for agricultural products and at 18.7 per cent for industrial products. Currently, the tariffs are 18.4 per cent for agricultural goods and 10 per cent for industrial products—well within WTO limits. Laos has also made market-access commitments in 10 sectors and 79 subsectors, out of a total of 160 economic sectors. But Laos has huge challenges ahead. It must build the economy and infrastructure to ensure its citizens reap the benefits of the new economic status. Thailand also stands to benefit from its neighbour’s new openness and should seize the opportunity to provide support and assistance. Greater prosperity among Laotians should boost trade across the border, increasing opportunities on both sides of the Mekong River. Partners in Asean, meanwhile, have an obligation to assist Laos by sharing their technical knowledge and experience, as it becomes the final member of the bloc to join the WTO. Membership in Afta and the AEC has served as a training ground, but Vientiane still faces steep challenges in implementing its remaining commitments and capitalising on opportunities that global trade will provide. Asean has much at stake in this transition of Laos onto the world stage, and should do all it can to help achieve its success. Asean must grasp this opportunity to help one of its members take an important step on the path to regional economic unity with a single future shared by all members. Laos In A Snapshot L aos’ 2012 economic outlook is positive, with development soaring in construction, manufacturing, mining, and services. These sectors are expected to drive a projected growth of 8.3 per cent in 2012. Despite this robust growth, the medium-term outlook remains subject to uncertainty in external markets. Declining rice prices and slower increase of fuel prices drove down overall inflation during the past months. The 2011/12 budget features increased exposure to hydropower and mining revenues and slower growth in non-resource sector revenue. Along with anticipated higher fiscal expenditures, the overall fiscal deficit will deteriorate, together with non-resource and non-mining fiscal deficits. The overall balance of payment is projected to slightly improve in 2012, as a result of augmented foreign direct investment and transfers outside the resource sectors. The non-resource sector’s external balance deficit is expected to improve due to investment inflows and transfers. Meanwhile, the resource sector’s balance of payment surplus is expected to moderately decline due to higher income repatriation in the mining sector. In 2011, the National Assembly approved the revised General Tax Law. In effect, this introduced a transparent, turnover-based presumptive tax regime for businesses with a turnover below the VAT registration threshold. This revision eliminates minimum business tax. Laos continued to make progress in its process of acceding to the World Trade Organisation, concluding bilateral negotiations with the European Union and the United States in late 2011 and with Ukraine, the last bilateral negotiation, in May 2012. (Source: World Bank, July 2012) •9 BUSINESS P unit PA RA NJPE /A F P PH OTO By Krittivas Mukherjee The Straits Times India’s Growing I Love Affair With Coffee ❖❖ New Delhi The aromatic brew is making inroads into the world’s biggest consumer of tea 10 • f tea is the fuel that India runs on, then coffee is fast becoming the new cup that cheers. Indians drink eight times more tea than coffee in a year. It is the beverage of the rich and poor alike, drunk at home and in fancy tea parlours as well as on the go from roadside stalls and pushcarts. Still, India’s 1,950 branded coffee shops are mostly bustling with young Indians. Last week, Starbucks opened its first store in Mumbai to a rock star reception, reinforcing the country’s growing love affair with the burnt-bitter brew. Coffee consumption in India has almost doubled in the decade through 2010 to 108,000 tonnes, but that is still a small fraction of the amount of tea Indians drink every year. November 16-29, 2012 November 16-29, 2012 P unit PA RA NJPE /A F P PHOTO So where does that leave chai— Hindi for tea—of which India is the second-biggest producer and largest consumer? Parts of southern India have long been drinking coffee. In the rest of the country, coffee is a relatively new and urban-centric phenomenon. Over the past decade, as globalisation and satellite television brought much of the world into Indian homes, its growing middle class experimented with everything from fashion to food. Cafés and restaurants exploded. Much like in China, cafés are fashionable among young people looking for a friendly, relaxing place to hang out. “If you look around, it’s mostly students or young professionals. They want to hang out, relax without burning a hole in their pocket,” says Aniket Sharma, a 19-year-old commerce student sipping an Irish coffee at a swanky New Delhi café. Way before the likes of Britain’s Costa Coffee or Lavazza of Italy arrived here, two Indian pioneers, Barista and Café Coffee Day, succeeded in converting Indian youth from tea to coffee, luring them with an atmosphere decidedly youthful: you’ll find the music loud, and there’s even a guitar on hand for anybody looking to start a spontaneous singalong. In contrast, tea suffers an image problem, experts say—it’s a fuddyduddy drink consumed mostly at home. “Coffee is for special occasions. Tea is just the plain home beverage,” says Harish Bijoor, who heads his own branding consultancy. Stand-alone tea bars, which try to put a contemporary twist to an ancient brew, exist in many Indian cities, but there are hardly any readily identifiable tea chains. Yet Indians are slow to take their coffee seriously and the brew is still seen as a luxury drink. A visit to a café is treated as a fashionable outing. The Indian café market is dominated by Café Coffee Day. It has TASTE FOR COFFEE: Staff work behind the counter of India’s first newly inaugurated Starbucks outlet in Mumbai. The world’s biggest coffee chain has finally entered the vast Indian market in a joint venture with the country’s giant Tata conglomerate, making an initial US$78 million investment and aiming for 50 cafés by year-end. more than 1,300 outlets, where its large selection of cold, sweet milkshakes, teas and other beverages are more popular than traditional coffee. Most Indian coffee chains sell beverages at far lower prices than their Western counterparts. A small cappuccino typically costs US$1 at Café Coffee Day. At Starbucks, the cheapest drink, a plain espresso, is US$1.22. The pricing is also part of the reason why tea may never become a fashionable drink in India, where two-thirds of its 1.2 billion people live on less than $2 a day. “A mental block is there—priceconscious Indians don’t want to shell out that much for a cup of tea at a café. They think ‘we drink it at home anyway’,” says Sneha Sahani, a 36-year-old marketing professional, waiting to pick up a latte from a Costa Coffee outlet in south Delhi. The earliest coffee houses in India date back to the 1930s, and were run by cooperatives that grew the beans in southern India. Their numbers were few and their patrons selective. A handful of them have survived the onslaught of modernity, where bearers in starched white uniforms with stiff, pointed turbans still serve beverages in chipped, white crockery covered with tea cosies. Perhaps the most famous of them exists in a decrepit university district in the city of Kolkata, where generations of poets, filmmakers, artists, politicians and revolutionaries fought their intellectual battles over endless cups of coffee in its wornout, smoke-filled ambience. When rising costs threatened its future, leading city intellectuals petitioned the government to save the place once frequented by such famous Indians as Nobel Prizewinning poet Rabindranath Tagore, freedom hero Subhas Chandra Bose and Oscar-winner Satyajit Ray. “Today’s cafés are nothing like what we know as a coffee house,” says Shankar Chatterjee, a 63-yearold loyal patron of the Kolkata Coffee House. Back at a Café Coffee Day outlet in Delhi, a group of young men and women lounge leisurely, sipping coffee and smoking flavoured hookah. “Somehow it’s more fun to get together in a café. The coffee tastes better and the atmosphere is not intimidating,” says Anamika Gupta, 18, as her friends nod in agreement. • 11 SPECIAL REPORT By Amalie Conchelle H. Obusan The Nation Heavy industrialisation and the rise in population have driven Asian cities like Manila to rethink energy policies and invest in cleaner energy. Poised For An Energy Revolution Southeast Asia leads in adopting cuttingedge renewable energy technologies ❖❖ Manila Noel Ce l is/AF P Photo T he world’s energy system has bestowed great benefits on society, but it has also come with an expensive price tag: Climate change due to human activities that led to the build-up of carbon dioxide and other greenhouse gases in the atmosphere. The evidence of climate change is solid and humanity faces an increasing peril if we don’t move decisively in the coming years from an economy based on fossil fuels towards one that is based on cutting-edge renewable energy (RE) technologies. The impressive economic growth of Southeast Asia despite global financial turbulence is unfortunately tied to increasing regional greenhouse gas emissions and air pollution due to fossil fuel burning. Yet in recent years, Southeast Asia, particularly the Association of Southeast Asian Nations (Asean), has begun working more closely to foster RE development in the region. The main drivers for this apparent shift are the continuously rising costs of fossil fuel imports, environ12 • mental and health impacts of fossil fuel use and the devastating impacts of climate change. Considerable effort has been put by countries in the region into setting RE targets with supportive policy frameworks that attract private sector investment. Six of the 10 Asean countries (Malaysia, Singapore, Vietnam, Philippines, Thailand and Indonesia) have adopted medium and long-term targets for renewable energy, with some countries embracing carbon reduction targets. While targets are more ambitious in some countries than in others, they serve as important catalysts for increasing the share of renewable energy in the region. ∞∞Regional trend Electricity from renewable sources in the Asean region, particularly in Indonesia, Thailand, the Philippines, Malaysia, Vietnam and Singapore, varies by technology as well as the installed capacity. Solar and wind power are currently experiencing a boom in Asean. Solar PV applications are now present in nine countries. The same goes for wind. In some countries however, such as the Phil- ippines and Vietnam, the contribution of wind to installed capacity is more than that of solar PV. Price support systems such as the feed-in tariff (FIT) have also been introduced. FITs are price-driven policies that are designed to support renewable electricity, wherein electricity generated from renewable energy sources is paid a premium price for delivery to the grid. As early as 2007, the premium model of FITs, or generally called “adder”, was introduced in Thailand. Malaysia followed suit in mid-2011 when it presented its own version to catalyse RE generation. While Indonesia has FIT for microhydro since 2010, it also only released its FIT rates for geothermal in July and is further setting its sights on releasing FITs for solar PV and wind in 2013. The Philippines, meanwhile, finally announced feedin tariffs in July 2012. ∞∞RE barriers However, there are still barriers to renewable energy development. Because the deployment of modern renewable energy technologies is quite recent in most Asean countries, RE November 16-29, 2012 November 16-29, 2012 disinterest or mistrust in renewables. ∞∞Need for policies For Asean countries to transition towards increased market integration of RE, policymakers need to reduce barriers and put focus on policy design and implementation. Distortionary subsidies which unfairly favour fossil fuels must be removed so that renewable energy technologies can compete on a balanced playing field. rate of 13-per cent for new renewable capacity compared to the global average annual growth of 60 per cent in 2004-2007. This slowdown was mainly due to the financial crisis that hit the power sector from the second half of 2008 onwards. However, the trend in Southeast Asia since 2004 is impressive with investment in renewable power generation assets amounting to US$1.2 billion in 2008. In fact, the World Bank’s opinion is that the activities in some of the countries to foster Ted Aljib/AFP Ph oto development initiatives have focused primarily on the reduction or removal of economic barriers. However, non-economic barriers— such as administrative, market, technical, financing and socio-cultural barriers—play an equally important role in shaping the cost of renewable energy projects but are often more difficult to address. This is because non-economic barriers are less obvious and often times linked to risks perceived by RE project investors and not by governments. In Indonesia, one of the most detrimental market barriers perceived by industry stakeholders is the lack of transparency regarding subsidies for, and the full costs of electricity from, fossil fuels. Since electricity and fossil fuel use is heavily subsidised in Indonesia, it does not allow for a level playing field for RE, making it appear to be an expensive choice in the eyes of the public. This unfair market distortion has led to a general negative perception of renewable energy and presents a strong obstacle for further development of renewable energy technologies. And then there are socio-cultural barriers that arise from cultural perceptions of a certain population. There is a general lack of environmental consciousness across Asean countries. This is not surprising because a significant percentage of Asean populations live below national poverty lines. Information regarding the available and most appropriate RE technologies and the resultant benefits for income generation and improved quality of life are sorely lacking. There are also land tenure issues that are linked to project developments in protected forest areas or land tenured to ethnic minorities. While considered to be less significant by industry stakeholders, strong public support and resulting demand for renewables nevertheless has the ability to trigger political decisions and act as a strong driver for RE development. The absence of these drivers could result in apathy, Residents paddle their wooden boats next to flooded homes in Manila after a typhoon in September that submerged parts of the capital in floodwater. It is also important to take into consideration the external benefits and true costs of all energy technologies, so that the so-called “cheapness” of coal will be exposed and the supposed “expensiveness” of RE debunked. To advance electrification and socio-economic objectives, the off-grid applications of renewable energy must be made part of national governments’ priority programmes. Lastly, RE policies must complement climate change policies. Despite these overwhelming set of obstacles, investment in new renewable energy capacity in the region is more encouraging than annual global growth rates. The year 2008 saw a sluggish annual global growth low-carbon technologies in support of their respective renewable energy and energy efficiency policy frameworks are expected to catalyse almost $10 billion in co-financing from national governments, multilateral development banks, carbon finance and the private sector. It might be imperceptible to some, but big things are definitely happening in Asean’s renewable energy development. But don’t take my word for it, look around and see because you won’t hear the Energy Revolution being announced on radio. The bright future for renewable energy is already silently underway. The writer is a regional climate and energy campaigner. • 13 SPECIAL REPORT By Anna Abad Philippine Daily Inquirer Jay D irecto/A F P Photo Hotbed For Dirty Energy ❖❖ Manila T he Philippines in 2011 topped the list of most disaster-prone countries in the world. The distinction is confirmed by the series of weather-related calamities that was endured by the country last year, and which claimed over 3,000 lives, affected 15.3 million Filipinos, and resulted in economic losses of over 26 billion pesos (US$631 million). It is a narrative that we have all become familiar with—that the Philippines is one of the countries most vulnerable yet least prepared to deal with the anticipated and escalating impacts of climate change. In the absence of bold and dramatic action to reverse global warming, climate scientists warn that the pattern of extreme weather that we have been experiencing in recent times is likely to become the new “normal”. While the greatest share of the responsibility to avert this crisis falls on the industrialised countries, it should not be construed as an excuse or a license for developing countries to continue mimicking the destructive path that is pushing the climate to a tipping point from which the world may never recover. The burgeoning power crisis in the Philippines is the latest terrain where we see this dynamics at play. Despite the abundance of sources of clean and renewable energy (RE) in the country, President Benigno Aquino III and the Department of Energy (DOE) have succumbed to converting the Philippines into a hotbed for dirty energy by anchoring its energy future on polluting and climate-destroying coal power plants. The decisions now being made by the government—particularly the facilitated approval of a string of 14 • Greenpeace volunteers call on the Philippine government to lead the road to an Energy Revolution with a roadmap to increase the country’s use of RE to 50 per cent of main power generation by 2020. coal-fired power projects in Bataan, Batangas, Zambales, Palawan, Negros, Iloilo, Cebu, Davao, Davao del Sur, Misamis Oriental, Sarangani and Zamboanga—present a major setback in the Philippines’ quest to attain energy independence by harnessing sustainable and renewable energy sources. Instead of constructing coal-fired power stations that take three to four years to complete, and that continue to perpetuate our dependence on finite and price-volatile fossil fuels, the country will be better off making the decisive transition to RE systems now. Compared to coalfired plants, such systems take less time to build, and their fuel supply is virtually free and limitless. They are, moreover, exempt from the quirks and instability of a fluctuating market. ∞∞Best models One model we should examine is found in Germany, where extensive hybrid systems called “RenewableEnergy Combined Cycle Power Stations” are already up and running. This system relies on an integrated network of wind, solar, biomass and hydropower installations spread across the country. With this system, one can quickly adapt to variations in supply in any one resource by drawing on others. In the Philippine National Renewable Energy Plan, the long-term goal includes a 100-per-cent increase in RE-based capacity by 2030. Given this glowing resource prognosis for RE, government planners will do well to replicate positive experiences elsewhere, instead of insisting on an already discredited model. In Japan, for example, following the government’s announcement of the approved feed-in tariffs, electronics conglomerate Toshiba will be bringing in an investment worth $379.6 million to build large-scale solar plants. More clean-energy investment is expected to bring in billions of dollars into that country. The DOE has awarded 313 renewable energy service contracts but to this day, not one has been developed. The fate of these projects lies in the hands of the DOE, which has yet to establish the eligibility criteria for renewable energy developers to proceed. More than three years after its passage, the Renewable Energy Law remains a paper promise. In this era of climate change, it is but appropriate for the people to expect their leaders to make decisions to move our societies toward the right direction. Investing in coal takes us back to the 19th century. Embracing renewable energy now advances us to the future. Aside from guaranteeing our energy security and independence, the latter also fortifies the demands by impacted countries and communities for climate justice. The writer a climate and energy campaigner for Greenpeace Southeast Asia. November 16-29, 2012 Building Asia together Holcim is building the very foundations of modern life. As a leading supplier of building materials in Asia we are strongly committed to the region. Global expertise and know-how, local market excellence and can-do attitude provide the strongest foundation for future growth. As with the Mass Rapid Transit network that forms the backbone of Singapore‘s public transport system. That‘s what it takes to build with confidence in the most dynamic region in the world. We do this with respect for both the environment and the local communities where we operate. www.holcim.com Strength. Performance. Passion. SPECIAL REPORT By Alexandra Di Stefano Pironti Inter-Press Service A group representing Indonesia’s retired military commanders and organisations, including the country’s largest Muslim body Nahdlatul Ulama, delivers a statement at the NU headquarters in Jakarta in August. The group rejected any apology to the victims of bloody anti-communist purge that killed between 500,000 and 2 million suspected communists. Blood-Soaked Chapter Still Open Romeo G acad/A F P Photo Indonesia remains reluctant to reopen old wounds of its anti-communist purge 16 • ❖❖ Jakarta I f the caste system existed in Indonesia, the 10 elderly people who live in Jakarta’s Kramat Street would surely be untouchables. For decades they and their families have been banned from jobs and access to education and, until 2005, their identity cards marked them as former political prisoners. They are survivors of the 1965-66 military crackdown on the now outlawed Indonesian Communist Party (PKI), during which time between 500,000 and 3 million people were massacred and thousands tortured and imprisoned without trial. Ostracised since General Suharto ousted independence leader Sukarno in 1965 and began a 32-year dictatorship marked by anti-communist zeal, the former prisoners interviewed by IPS at the old twostorey villa in downtown Jakarta offered a string of traumatic tales that give but a glimpse into a bloodsoaked chapter of Indonesian history that many have chosen to forget. Pak Rosidi, an 86-year-old former November 16-29, 2012 agricultural engineer who graduated from the University of New England in Australia, recalled in perfect English the horrors he suffered until 1980 in the notorious detention camp of Baru Island, where a recent investigation uncovered conditions that had amounted to slavery. “I was dismissed from my job at the Department of Agriculture in 1970 and arrested because I was Sukarnist, not a communist,” he said. “I am speechless about my years in prison. I was beaten, and continuously electrocuted for three hours at a time during those years,” the soft-spoken Rosidi recounted. “I had three children and I was married before I went to jail, but my wife rejected me when I returned,’’ he added. Strained family ties are a common theme in the stories of former prisoners, at a time when fear pushed children to turn against their parents in a bid to escape a life of discrimination. Like many others, Rosidi faced difficulties making a living after jail because his identity card was marked “Ex Tapol” (former prisoner). That barred people like him from decent jobs, and banned them from careers in law, politics and the military. Their children were denied access to university education. Ibu Snanto, now 85 and a housemate of Pak Rosidi, was in jail from 1966 to 1975 because her husband was a communist party member. “My husband was the communist and I was only a housewife, but they arrested me and I was often electrocuted and sexually abused. I suffer from heart problems and trauma because of those years,’’ she told IPS. ∞∞No closure The massacres started against the backdrop of the Cold War on Oct 1, 1965, when a group inside the armed forces calling itself the “Thirtieth of September Movement” kidnapped and killed six senior army generals, allegedly to prevent a coup against Sukarno, who was sympathetic to the PKI. November 16-29, 2012 How many were killed and tortured, and the number who were imprisoned or are still alive, is not clear. “We have spent two years of inquiry to find the numbers of people killed, but we cannot conduct validation. We haven’t had help from military officials,” Nur Kholis, a senior executive of the official Indonesian National Commission on Human Rights (Komnas HAM), told IPS. In the first official report of its kind—released last July and based on interviews with 349 former prisoners—Komnas HAM acknowledged that ‘’gross human rights violations” had taken place during the purge, including “murder, slavery, torture, sexual abuse, disappearances, cleansing, forced displacement and persecution.” The report recommends that the government of Indonesia, the world’s most-populous Muslim nation, launch a national reconciliation process, and that the attorney general prosecute those found to be responsible for the crimes. Kholis recounted to IPS the story of a witness in South Sumatra island who saw army soldiers push 100 half-starved prisoners into the sea. He also recounted the tale of a woman survivor in the city of Medan in North Sumatra island who was forced to lie down naked while soldiers pushed bunches of lit matches into her vagina. Details of the anti-communist massacres are not found in Indonesian schoolbooks, and communism remains banned to this day. As recently as 2008, police summoned a group of artists in Bali to court for using symbols of the communist party during an exhibition. Although Indonesia started its path to democracy in 1998 after Suharto was ousted as president, the current president, Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono, also a retired army general, has also been reluctant to reopen old wounds. ∞∞Stigma remains Meanwhile, the 10 former prisoners living on Kramat Street want nothing more than to have their names cleared of any wrongdoing. “I want the stigma to be taken off us and a recognition that the government says that we are good people,” 87-year old Ibu Pujiati, who spent 14 years in jail after 1965 for being a labour activist, told IPS. Australian university professor Rober t Cribb, who has written extensively about Indonesia’s recent history, believes that the government’s refusal to acknowledge the suffering of victims has had a “profound effect” on the former prisoners. “They have not only suffered discrimination, but they have been portrayed as unreliable citizens. Things that they believed in have been portrayed as evil,” Cribb told IPS. The biggest Muslim organisation in Indonesia, Nahdlatul Ulama (NU), whose members took part in the persecution and killing of suspected communists alongside the military, believes that the former prisoners are best forgotten. “They should not look for compensation. The conflict should be forgotten,” As’ad Said Ali, a senior NU official, told IPS. H e j u s t i fi e d t h e k i l l i n g s a n d persecution as “human nature”, saying the massacres were driven by “revenge” for previous deadly conflicts between the PKI and NU. “We don’t like revenge because everything depends on God, but we want official rehabilitation for all of us,” said former prisoner Ibu Snanto, eliciting nods from fellow victims at the Kramat Street home. The poetry of former prisoner Putu Oka Sukanta succinctly paints those years as a time “when human life was as cheap as a gutter rat’s”. Seventy-three-year-old Sukanta describes leftists as being “hunted down by hungry dogs”. Although never tried, he was jailed for 10 years for belonging to the cultural organisation Lekra, which was affiliated to the communist party. • 17 POLITICS By Murray Hunter The Jakarta Post Greg Wood/A F P Photo one-way to say the least. Not surprisingly, the document still goes out to reaffirm Australia’s loyalty to the United States. Historically the US is seen as a saviour from invasion by the Japanese during World War II and consequently there has been a total commitment from successive Australian governments through the Cold War until the present time for US foreign policy. This has brought many foreign policy mistakes and probably cost Australia in Southeast Asia any individual identity. In contrast, China is now so impor tant to Aus tralian trade, investment, and tourism, yet Australia is unconsciously niggling China with its staunch loyalty to the US. Australian Prime Minister Julia Gillard is greeted by an honour guard upon her arrival at Wattay airport in Laos to attend the 9th Asia-Europe Summit in Vientiane on November 4. ‘Australia in the Asian Century’ or lost in Asia? A ❖❖ Kuala Lumpur ustralian Prime Minister Julia Gillard released recently a long awaited white paper, “Australia in the Asian Century”. The white paper basically affirms that Australia’s future lies with Asia and consequently immense economic opportunities exist for Australia to grab. The paper hinges the nation’s strategy of becoming a competitive force within the region through skills development, innovation, infrastructure, the tax system, regulatory reform, and sustainability. However before a nation can become a competitive force, it must 18 • have an accepted place in the region. Hoang D inh Nam/AFP Ph oto Australia’s Latest White Paper China saved Australia from a deep recession with demand for minerals whereas the US brought the Australian government anguish over the involvement in Iraq and Afghanistan, China would prefer to deal with an Australia with a mature and independent foreign policy rather than an enthusiastic supporter of US foreign policy. China as an ally presents less of a dilemma than the US, as China has historically always allowed some deviation from the official Chinese foreign policy. For example China does allow Australia and A copy of the other nations to have a Australian governments s e p a r a t e r e l a t i o n s h i p White Paper on with Taiwan, and “Australia in the Asian different approaches to Century” is displayed regional issues without in Sydney on Oct 28, 2012. making these differences major issues. On this key strategy, the white paper does little more than make a “rally call” to Australians to come out and make it happen. The paper also reeks of Austro-centrism where most of the points made in the document are written with the expectation that Australia will win out of closer ties with Asia without necessarily giving much back in exchange—such as Australia having closer ties with Asian universities in order to attract students and skilled workers. Rather Maybe Australia can learn from the Indonesian approach of dynamic equilibrium, a doctrine where Washington and Beijing would agree to co-exist rather than compete for supremacy in the Asian region. After decades of successive foreign November 16-29, 2012 Romeo Gacad/A F P Photo and trade policy, Australia still does not have any embedded position within the region. The influence of Australian business and financial institutions in the region is minor, nowhere near the critical mass needed to become a competitive force in the region. The only exception is in the mining sector, which to all intents and purposes has made the Australian economy very dependent upon demand in Asia, particularly China. Back in the 1990s then prime minister Paul Keating stated that Australia is part of Asia and made a concerted effort to embed Australia within the region. This had some positive effect with Indonesia, Cambodia, Laos, and Timor Leste, but had setbacks over the recalcitrant remarks about Malaysia’s former premier Mahathir Mohamad which soured relations with that country for a number of years. However perceptively, all these gains were lost when John Howard came to power in 1996 reaffirming the Canberra-Washington link, earning the label for Australia as the US’ deputy sheriff in the Asia. The Australian relationship with the region is one where Australia needs the region more than the region needs Australia. The Australian market is small compared to other markets and of little interest to regional exporters who prefer to put their efforts into the larger markets of China, Japan, EU, and the US. Though Australia has some deeply historical links with many parts of the region due to some heroic actions of troops during World War II, tragically these opportunities to further develop relationships were not capitalised upon, due to Australian mesmerisation with Washington. White papers aside, it will be action and not words that are important and China and the region will be surprised to see any real change, although the intention and realisation of the need is present within the foreign policy Australian November 16-29, 2012 US President Barack Obama, Chinese Premier Wen Jiabao, Australian Prime Minister Julia Gillard and Brunei Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah stand for a group photo session at the East Asia Summit in Nusa Dua on Indonesia’s resort island of Bali last year. agenda. However with Australia, old habits die hard. Australia also has a track record of falling over itself in Asia. It will take much more than a massive investment in skills and education to be able to engage the Asian region, let alone be “competitive”. One of the paramount barriers Australia has to overcome is the deep set belief that its own cultural values are not necessarily universally accepted across the region. It’s not about learning Asian languages but about understanding different points of view, approaches, and “mindsets”. Austro-centrism must take a back seat in relationships around the region for Australia to be seriously considered a member of the region. The white paper is still haunted by Australia’s past. Maybe it’s time for Australia to release the US security blanket a little and become a mature and independent nation within the Asian region. However one fears with the promise of a rise in real incomes from the “Asian Century” initiative, that the whole thing is just a pander to the domestic electorate. As the report itself aspires, Asia is seen only as a means for Australian incomes to become one of the top 10 percapita ones in the world. The white paper has turned it into a promissory note for a better future within Australia based upon the misconception that internal capacity building will make Australia more competitive in Asia, being too “fuzzy” about developing a real strategy to engage the region. Building up capacities is only building capability. They are not strategies within themselves. Presence and accommodation of Asia to what Australia really has to offer is the vital key. This implies showing the region that an independent Australia is truly willing to put its lot in with Asia and not with the US. Asian suspicion may arise to the issue Gillard herself talked about Australia being a winner in Asia, and this implies there must be losers. It’s highly doubtful if anybody in the region is looking at Australia with any more interest today. The writer is an associate professor at University Malaysia Perlis, and the author of some books on agriculture, economics, and entrepreneurship. • 19 POLITICS By Kor Kian Beng and Grace Ng The Straits Times China’s New Dawn PHOTO S BY AF P Hope springs eternal but will the country’s new leaders bring about real change? 20 • November 16-29, 2012 ❖❖ BEIJING The Politics Of Xi Jinping W hen a young and lanky Xi Jinping was sent to Fujian province to become the party boss of Ningde town in 1988, his arrival raised the local people’s expectations. Many hoped that the princeling from the north, whose father was a Communist Party elder and a former vice-premier, would bring big changes—and riches—to the town by using his connections to secure projects from the central government. But Xi declined and gifted them with an old saying about patience and perseverance instead. Di shui chuan shi, or water dripping steadily will eventually wear a hole in the rock. Now, over 20 years later, with Xi set to assume the highest office in China, expectations have risen again. Observers hope that he would emulate his late father Xi Zhongxun, who is held in deep respect for his open-mindedness, honesty and courage. November 16-29, 2012 His father was a prime mover behind China’s first Special Economic Zone in Shenzhen, which spearheaded the country’s market reforms in 1980. Xi senior also spoke out bravely against the sacking of reformist Communist Party chief Hu Yaobang in 1987 by conservative party elders opposed to his market reforms. The late Xi also called for a softer approach towards Tibet and reconciliation with the Dalai Lama, the region’s exiled spiritual leader. Those who wish the son will take after the father want to see big changes under Xi, 59, such as more intra-par ty democracy, a reappraisal of the June 4, 1989 Tiananmen Incident and a more moderate policy towards restive Tibet and Xinjiang. Of late, there have been signs Xi could be keen to pursue a reform agenda. However, some observers believe Xi will prefer a slow and steady approach after he succeeds President Hu Jintao. So do not expect any big bangs, they say. As University of Nottingham analyst Steve Tsang puts it: “Bloodline and heritage don’t count for much.” Observers also point to Xi’s 33year track record in politics which, they say, has been much more conservative than his father’s. Nothing stands out by way of political reform. Such cautiousness comes from having witnessed first-hand the brutality of power struggles. His father was among the first communists to be purged by Mao Zedong in 1962. The purge upended the Xi family’s privileged lifestyle in the Zhongnanhai leadership compound. Xi senior was banished to work in a factory and later detained and tortured when Mao launched the Cultural Revolution in 1966. His son, only 13, was sent to a poor village in northern China where, for the next seven years, he worked among peasants, survived on cornchaff bread and slept on a flea-infested bed. It took repeated attempts before he managed to join the Communist Party and enrol at the prestigious Tsinghua University to study chemical engineering. After he graduated in 1979, his family—by then politically rehabilitated—got him a plum job as secretary to then Defence Minister Geng Biao. Still, it was not all smooth sailing for the young Xi, who was dealt several early setbacks that perhaps helped to cement his cautious and conservative nature. His first marriage failed in the early 1980s when his wife Ke Lingling, youngest daughter of former ambassador to Britain Ke Hua, left him. During his three years from 1982 in Zhengding, in Hebei province, Xi never became its party boss because provincial chief Gao Yang, peeved that princelings were being parachuted into leadership posts, reportedly blocked his promotion. Says analyst Chen Gang of Singapore’s East Asian Institute: “Those setbacks made him more cautious and also taught him the importance of compromise and of not provoking people, important traits that have helped him rise to the top.” Making compromises will limit the things Xi can do even if he really wants to do them, say analysts. “There are powerful forces in favour of, if not maintaining, the status quo, then making only minor • 21 POLITICS readjustments,” says Professor June Teufel Dreyer from University of Miami. Any tweaks, if they come, are likely to be in three areas—intraparty democracy, the fight against corruption and reducing the state’s role in the economy. And much of these will be made out of necessity rather than by the force of Xi’s personality, experts say. With the days of strongman rule long gone in China, new leaders like Xi will need to justify their power, which means intra-democratic measures like voting may be beefed up, says Dr Chen. Corruption is entrenched in the party and Xi, who has a clean reputation, must be seen to be fighting the “cancer” rigorously. Similarly, the dominance of the state has long stifled private enterprise in China. Many will expect Xi to back a supporting role for the government in business. The more than two decades he spent running coastal provinces Fujian and Zhejiang, and also Shanghai are believed to have helped make Xi more inclined towards the private sector. Overall, it is a good bet Xi will at least be more liberal than Hu Jintao, says University of Chicago analyst Yang Dali. Another factor, he adds, is Xi’s exposure to a wider social circle, thanks to his second wife Peng Liyuan, 50, a famous singer whom he met in 1986. The couple has a daughter Xi Mingze, 20, who is studying at Harvard University. But Xi will get things done without causing too big a ripple, like water dripping on a rock. “As a new leader, it’s easy to make rousing speeches and attempt big things while people’s spirits are high,” he was quoted as saying years after leaving Ningde. “But once you’ve raised expectations, it means a huge disappointment for them. I cannot do such a thing.” 22 • The Economics Of Li Keqiang When a report in February warned that China will face a crisis unless it reins in powerful state monopolies, it attracted global attention not just because of the politically sensitive topic, but also because Li Keqiang supported it. Until then, the man tipped to be China’s next premier had given few indications whether he would be more reform-minded than current Premier Wen Jiabao. When he met World Bank president Robert Zoellick, who was in Beijing to present the 468-page report co-written with a Chinese state think-tank, it seemed that he was open to shaking things up. Li was “instrumental in facilitating the report on reforms of state-owned enterprises”, noted Royal Bank of Scotland’s China economist Louis Kuijs. And “many elements of the reform agenda discussed by the World Bank appeared to have his agreement and support”, added the former World Bank economist in Beijing. But does Li have the dynamism and political will to push through tough reforms? As economist Yolanda Fernandez Lommen of the Asian Development Bank’s China resident mission warns: “Rebalancing is unlikely to occur in the absence of bolder policy adjustments.” Wen pledged to do those things. He did not get very far. Li, 57, will have to be even more aggressive to make things work in the next decade. Many analysts are not optimistic. “His track record has been quite lacklustre. It’s unclear whether it is because he does not have power [to push through reforms] or he is not competent enough, or a combination of both,” says Chinese University of Hong Kong analyst Willy Lam. When he was in charge of central Henan province, he was criticised for covering up a scandal in which government-run blood banks caused an outbreak of Aids among blood-sellers. The infections mostly took place before he arrived, but he was said to be slow to react. When he moved to northeastern Liaoning in 2004 to revitalise its loss-making stateNovember 16-29, 2012 owned enterprises, it sparked a spate of labour protests. Some critics say Li “lacks former premier Zhu Rongji’s political courage and Wen Jiabao’s charisma”, according to China politics expert Li Cheng. So his policies thus far have been tepid. They have been more defined by his strong support of mentor and President Hu Jintao’s “harmonious society” principles to improve social equity, rather than by radical reforms to boost private enterprises. All these had led some to see VicePremier Wang Qishan, 64, as a preferred candidate to succeed Wen instead. The rumour arose after former Singapore prime minister Lee Kuan Yew, a renowned China watcher, was quoted in a 2009 United States diplomatic cable released by WikiLeaks as saying Wang, a protege of Zhu, was preferred. But Wang’s chances of becoming executive vice-premier, Li’s No. 2, in the new team appear to be fading, say some China analysts. There are concerns that Wang’s vast experience and forceful personality may overshadow the more subdued Li. The latter is said to have a more academic style—poring over copious reports—to meeting China’s challenges. Still, there is cause for optimism based on his history. Most officials who have risen to the top did so by toeing the line and making conservative moves, notes Tsinghua University professor Patrick Chovanec. “It could well be that once Li is in charge, he may not feel the constraints he had in the past,” he says. The son of a minor party official in eastern Anhui had shown an inclination for radical ideas when he read law. After working as a manual labourer in the countryside during the Cultural Revolution, he enrolled in the prestigious Peking University in 1977. That was a time of intellectual and political ferment. Li was known to have mingled with liberals at a student-run intelNovember 16-29, 2012 (L-R): Hu Jintao, Jiang Zemin and Wen Jiabao. lectual “salon”, which later participated in the 1989 Tiananmen protests. Among the liberals was prominent dissident Chen Ziming, who later described Li as “very ambitious and knowledgeable”. He also took an interest in Western or international standards. In his college days, he translated a law book by a famous British judge, Lord Denning. In recent years, he has made several speeches in fluent English—a rare trait among top Chinese leaders. His proficiency is partly helped by his wife Cheng Hong, a professor of English in a top Beijing university. Two years younger than her husband, she is an authority in China on American nature writing. The couple has a daughter, who graduated from Peking University and is reportedly studying medicine in the US. Little is known about Li’s extended family, although his brother Li Keming is the top official at China’s state-owned tobacco monopoly, according to elite politics expert Li Cheng. Li Keqiang can be a smooth political operator, having built a network which may help garner support for tough policies. For a start, he is likely to target inflated housing prices, which have been par tly blamed on speculative activity by some officials and state-linked enterprises. “One of his urgent tasks is to resolve the housing bubble and allow o r d i n a r y f o l k t o a ff o r d t o b u y homes,” says Chinese Academy of Social Sciences professor Yi Xianrong. Li has already made state-subsidised housing for the masses a pet project. This interest dates back to his days as Liaoning provincial chief, a 2008 essay on the official People’s Daily website claims. Pained by the squalid conditions of a local shanty town, he exclaimed: “Even if we have to smelt pots to sell iron (a Chinese idiom meaning to sell everything one has to raise cash), we must help the people move out of these shanty towns!” That sparked a drive to move 1.4 million shanty inhabitants into new homes—an unprecedented scale in China’s history, the essay grandly adds. For Li to accomplish more historical feats, he will have to draw upon the connections he built while working closely with 86 of the more than 350 members in the Central Committee of the Communist Party. More importantly, he is a known close ally of Hu. “If Mr Hu stays on as head of the Central Military Commission, he should be able to provide some backing for Mr Li, especially if there is a power struggle behind the scenes between him and Mr Wang,” said Lam. • 23 POLITICS By Lee Joo-hee The Korea Herald Styling The Future President Body language, tone, audience connection and clothes matter when you’re trying to win voters’ hearts ❖❖ Seoul I t is said a person’s style reflects his or her character. In that case, all three of Korea’s major presidential candidates must be modest, neutral and even a little dull. As if by unanimous agreement, all three—Park Geun-hye of the Saenuri Party, Moon Jae-in of the Democratic United Party, and independent Ahn Cheol-soo—appear to prefer achromatic tones as opposed to statement pieces when dressing themselves. To advisers’ recommendation that they consider sprucing up their style, their univocal response is said to be, “I’ll just go as naturally as possible.” The three also have something in common in the way they speak, with their monotonous elocution style, a reserved sense of humour and forced or minimal gestures. Image experts point out that style is more than just fashion. It is something that can make or break a can24 • didate by defining his or her image. Style played a major role in the first nationally-televised US presidential debate between then-senator John F. Kennedy and then-vice president Richard Nixon in 1960. Kennedy’s dark blue suit against Nixon’s tepid gray projected a young and strapping image, and put him into the lead in the race. Kennedy held on to become the United States’ 35th president. According to Albert Mehrabian, professor emeritus of psychology, UCLA, 55 per cent of a person’s message is received and processed based on the speaker’s body language, and 38 per cent on tone of voice. Only 7 per cent is based on content. “We voters have no way of knowing the candidates’ inner thoughts. Because of that, we can only rely on the politician’s accomplishments, their pasts, looks, expressions, speech patterns and gestures when making our judgment,” said Jung Yun-ah, president of image consulting firm Imagetech Institute. Because of Korea’s traditionally conservative nature stemming from Confucianism, it is still considered virtuous to appear modest and avoid aggression as much as possible, she explained. Considering this election’s key phrase is “self-reflection on politics”, the mood is even more sombre. Having a sophisticated sense of humour can also help, said Choi Jin, head of the Institute of Presidential Leadership. “The two axes of the 21st century’s emotional politics are ‘tears’ and ‘humour’. While Korea has seen a lot of tear-jerking politics, it is difficult to find witty politics,” he said. “While Park, Moon and Ahn are likable with their looks, it is hard to find a tasteful or elegant sense of humour in them.” He suggested “fun leadership” as an alternative to negative offensives and in dealing with politically charged issues to better appeal to voters. Jung, on the other hand, suggested the candidates step outside the box. November 16-29, 2012 ∞∞Park Geun-hye Park, 60, favours neutral-colored trouser suits like dark olive and blue, usually with stiff collars and black or grey heels. On special occasions, she wears brighter red, the emblematic colour of the Saenuri Party. Her most signature look is her up-do, reminiscent of the 1960s and her mother and former first lady Yook Young-soo. As an accessory, she rarely wears anything bold, but sticks to a wristwatch, a brooch, or a thin gold necklace. Until last year when she headed the Saenuri Party’s emergency committee, Park was rarely seen wearing trousers but instead a long and flowy skirt. She wore trousers during a crisis period of her leadership to maximise her epicene image. But since announcing her presidential bid in July, she has only worn a skirt a couple of times, mostly on her tributary visits to the gravesites of her mother or former presidents. Her willingness to wear jeans to approach the younger voters even made headlines. She is said to be frugal and recycles her wardrobe that she relies on with the help of a long-time local tailor. Because Park has been under the spotlight since she was a teenager as the daughter of former President Park Chung-hee, she tends to be cautious and restrained in her body language. Rather than speaking in lengthy eloquent words, Park tends to give short remarks and answers. Experts say while such a pattern may depict her as trustworthy, it could expose her vulnerability in longer debates. Her habit of using “um” and “uh” in sentences also depreciates her message. She could go as far as to show the scar on her chin, which she hides under make-up, to highlight her political history, Jung suggested. Park was cut with a knife by an attacker on the campaign trail in 2006. Experts also suggest Park add emotional touches to her speeches to better engage the audience. November 16-29, 2012 Park’s refined manner, meanwhile, is deemed to show her principled nature. ∞∞Moon Jae-in Moon, 59, likes to emphasise his enthusiasm by rolling up his sleeves on the campaign trail. The former presidential chief of staff refuses to dye his signature salt-and-pepper hair despite his aides’ recommendation as a way of looking younger. The most drastic change he made in his style recently was to change his glasses from a square frame to a circular one for a milder image. Moon likes to wear olive greencoloured neckties on special occasions to represent his camp’s symbol, ivy. Because of his hair colour, Moon tends to stay away from wearing gray suits, instead prefering dark ones. He also started wearing wider neckties to enhance his leadership image. His suits are domestic brands like Cambridge Members or Manstar. Sometimes, he wears jeans to appear more liberal. In speeches, Moon is usually serious but lacks dramatic effect, experts say. Despite his capacity to memorise lines, Moon relies on reading off prepared speech notes. Due to extensive dental implants he had done during his days at Cheong Wa Dae, his pronunciation sounds a little muffled. Moon is more skilled at a defensive speaking style, rather than an offensive one like his former boss, the late president Roh Moo-hyun. While he tries to gesture more during his speeches, it needs to become more natural, experts say. “Because his image is still very much associated with him having been the chief secretary [rather than a leader], he could better achieve an image of a strong leader if he was to colour his hair to dark brown, or even style it more neatly,” Jung said. “He also tends to wear his necktie lower than recommended by around 5 to 7 centimetres, which can make him look outdated. It is good to wear the tie so that the tip touches the bottom line of a belt buckle,” she suggested. In terms of speaking, Moon should raise his speech volume a notch as well as his tone, experts suggest. Observers point out that Moon generally has a friendly and approachable image and gives off an intellectual vibe as a former attorney. ∞∞Ahn Cheol-soo Ahn, 50, has a young and scholastic image. His carefully parted hairstyle shows he is sensitive and prudent, but his semi-formal suit depicts him as young and progressive. Ahn rarely wore ties but started doing more so upon his presidential bid announcement in September. The former software mogul sometimes attempts a bolder colour, such as by wearing a bright necktie or wearing a green jacket with an orange sweater, depending on the formality of the event he is attending. He often carries around a Northface backpack, and wears his blue Ungaro jacket on the campaign trail. His dark suits that he has been wearing for years are said to be by Giorgio Armani or a domestic brand. Although he has been teaching students for years, he still appears shy and tense when giving speeches, with his voice trembling at times. Ahn also tends to use the so-called “sit-down” speech, or conversational language, where he addresses the audience more casually. While the no-tie look showed his liberal image appealing to younger voters, he would appear more aggressive by wearing blue shirts as his signature look with ties of sophisticated colours like burnt orange, Jung suggested. Observers say Ahn’s speeches are more like lectures. Observers also point to the former professor’s use of English terms during his meetings with ordinary citizens, leaving most of them baffled. Ahn, instead, is seen to excel in giving emotionally ringing speeches, benefitting from his untainted and fresh image. • 25 Society By Sushmita S Preetha The Daily Star Unravelling The Pain Ramu Sada Chit Bihar. Fear, insecurity haunt Buddhists in Bangladesh even weeks after unprecedented attacks ❖❖ Dhaka Mu mit M/ Th e Daily Star T he places look vaguely f a m i l i a r a s yo u wa l k through the debris, ashes, broken statues and burnt puthis (religious scrolls) of the holy sites. Many of the burnt houses remain like they did weeks ago. Some army tents stand erect amidst the debris. There is nothing familiar about the overwhelming hate and cruelty that exudes from the remnants of the temples, monasteries and shima bihars in Ramu, Ukhiya, Teknaf and Patiya areas, at least not for those who haven’t seen the Gujarat massacre or Babri mosque demolition. No amount of newspaper reports, op-eds, video clips or Facebook images prepare you for the magnitude of the destruction that took place in this southeastern part of Bangladesh on September 29-30. You wonder about human capacity to be cruel as you stroll through the temple and view the intricate 26 • artwork that is now destroyed, the statues that now lie beheaded, and the ancient texts that are now disintegrated remains lying there, not really waiting to be rescued or replaced. And you wonder how to mend this scar. ∞∞Fretful night Infuriated over a derogatory image of Islam allegedly found in the Facebook profile page of Uttam Barua, a Buddhist man, mobs gathered in different parts of Ramu, a sub-district of southeastern district of Cox’s Bazar, on the evening of September 29. “When the meetings were taking place, people from different political parties joined in—Awami League [ruling party], BNP [main opposition Bangladesh Nationalist Party], Jamaat [Bangladesh’s largest Islamist party],” recollects a college student, wishing to remain unnamed. People gave inflammatory speeches, for instance, Nurul Islam Selim, president of local press club, threatened turning everything dysfunctional if Uttam Barua was not handed over to them in two days while others said that the Baruas (a Buddhist surname) had disrespected Islam and so must pay, he added. “At 11:30pm, they marched towards Barua village with a procession and attacked people’s houses. Then they rushed to the temples,” says Shantosh Barua from Ramu. “We communicated with everyone—the police superintendent, local police and administration. But no-one heed to do anything, not even the local lawmaker,” he adds. Before dawn, 12 temples were burnt down, another six totally ruined and 50 houses destroyed. “I felt completely helpless. The Borokang Buddha Bihar and Kendriyo S h i m a B i h a r, wh i c h we re d e stroyed, were about 400 years old. The Lal Ching temple was even older,” says a Buddhist schoolteacher who witnessed the unprecNovember 16-29, 2012 Ukhiyar Ghona Buddhist Bihar at Ramu. edented attack from the rooftop of his house in Ramu. T h e n e x t d ay, t h e v i o l e n c e spread to Ukhiya and Teknaf areas of Cox’s Bazar and Patiya sub-district of Chittagong when eight more temples and monasteries, including two Hindu temples, and many homes of the Buddhists were destroyed. ∞∞Attack pre-planned According to witnesses, police investigations, independent inquiries and newspaper reports, it was not a spontaneous act of communal hatred, rather meticulously orchestrated plan against the Buddhists. The Daily Star has found that the image of Uttam’s Facebook page, which was circulated to incite the attack, was actually photoshopped to make it look like as if one “Insult Allah” group had shared the image with Uttam. The unsuspecting locals joined the outsiders, who came in trucks, in the processions. The two youths, one of whom has ties to Jamaat’s student front Islami Chhatra Shibir, have been arrested for fabricating and disseminating the image. The victims recognised many local Muslims in the processions brought out before the attacks but can’t say for sure whether they were involved in the torching and looting. “It was dark and we were too afraid to come out and face them,” says a Baruapara man whose house was torched. He can’t think anyone he knows could do this. The attacks continued for four hours but the local administration did nothing to stop it, locals said. November 16-29, 2012 Ramu Sada Chit Bihar. Nazibul Islam, officer-in-charge of Ramu Police Station, joined a rally later and said, “I am a Muslim. I should’ve joined the procession.” He was later withdrawn from his post and is now facing an investigation. It seems different groups led the attacks in the various areas. There are reports of Rohingyas’ involvement in some capacity too. So far, 262 people have been arrested. But who the real masterminds are remains still unclear. ∞∞Living in the ruins Weeks after the fateful night, fear and insecurity are still written on people’s faces. “We don’t want money; we want a guarantee that nothing like this will happen again, we want assurance that the Buddhist community can survive in Bangladesh,” says Polash Barua (not his real name), whose house, overlooking the Laal Ching temple in Ramu also came under attack on the night of September 29. Afraid of retribution, they decline to disclose their names. Some say that they have received threats while others don’t want to feel alienated by their Muslim neighbours and colleagues. People in Teknaf allege that local goons walk around saying, “How long will the army protect you? Make too much noise and we will make sure all the Baruas’ heads are cut off.” In some odd way, Ramu seems more alive in its bereavement than it did when it was a regular tourist site. There are people clicking away with their cameras, conducting interviews, holding protests, giving fiery speeches, distributing relief. While the ruling AL is blaming the local BNP lawmaker for “fann i n g c o m m u n a l v i o l e n c e,” i n Ramu, the BNP is capitalising on the inaction of the local administration to point fingers at the ruling party. Due to of tremendous international and national pressure, the government distributed money among victims for rehabilitation. It is however unclear whether it will be able to keep its promise to rebuild the temples and monasteries. “Even if they replace everything, how would they address the insecurity and suspicion people here are undergoing now?” asks one Nirmal Barua. Denying any role in the attack, Muslims in Baruapara said they steered away fearing retribution by the angry mob, except for a handful ones who rushed to help their Buddhist neighbours. “We have lived together for years, Buddhists and Muslims, as neighbours, as friends. They would participate in our festivals and we in theirs. In the blink of an eye, all of that changed. Even if they didn’t themselves partake in the violence, why didn’t the local Muslims come forward to stop it?” An invisible wall seems to have been erected between the Muslims and the Buddhists since the attack. Even though there has never been any real tension between the two groups, the engineered incidents have succeeded in giving rise to a feeling of exclusion, insecurity and apprehension among the Baruas, making them feel like strangers in their homeland. • 27 TECHNOLOGY A F P Photo By Niki Cheong The Star Facebook founder Mark Zuckerberg suggests that the current ‘social norm’ is that things are less private. Digital Privacy Divide Technology is fuelling the debate over what is public, and what is private ❖❖ London I t’s recently that two Malaysian made the headlines both in their country and across the causeway in Singapore. Alvin Tan and Vivian Lee came under the spotlight when their blog, featuring videos of them having sex, gained mainstream attention. The morality issues of the ac28 • tions of these two are not the topic here. Many people have already stated their opinions through media channels and online social networks. The couple also had a chance to respond to critics, making several media appearances and even releasing a question and answer video response. What is interesting about this incident, from a digital culture perspective, is the way Lee responded in an interview. “I see nothing wrong in posting the nude pictures and videos of our sexual relationship on the Internet. It was intended for the world to see how much we love each other,” she said. Her statement alludes to the very public nature of online platforms, which, for many, is a major issue of concern when it comes to the use of Internet and social networking sites in particular. One site that has been heavily criticised for its interpretation of what constitutes public information is Facebook. This was especially so after its founder and chief executive officer Mark Zuckerberg, in an interview in 2010, defended the site’s move to change the privacy settings of its then 350 million users, suggesting that the current “social norm” is that things are less private. ∞∞evolution The evolution of the Internet over the past 15 years facilitated this change. When the World Wide Web caught on back in the mid’90s, people started finding ways to post information about themselves online. Before that, conversations were already happening via email and bulletin boards. But the Web meant that you could have your own public site and write there whatever you wanted. Free sites such as Geocities and Tripod emerged, offering to host personal web pages. Then blogs started becoming all the rage, and Internet users found that they did not need to replace old web pages with new ones. Blogs would let them add fresh content while at the same time archive all their old information on the very same site. It is no surprise then that sites which made it easier for you to talk about yourself—and with design templates, too—emerged. Enter the November 16-29, 2012 Norafif I E hsan/ The Star world of social networking where sites like Friendster and MySpace dominated much of the midnoughties, allowing you to not only talk about yourself, but connect with other people—friends and strangers alike—to share your life with. ∞∞the debate When Zuckerberg talks about how privacy has changed, he is not entirely wrong. Whether or not this justifies his company’s decision to meddle with the personal accounts of so many users is still being debated. But the fact is that digital technology has changed the way people view what is public and what is private. Which is why it’s interesting that Lee went on to say, “I cannot understand why people have to make so much fuss about this. It is our private affair.” That she would talk about both being public in wanting to share her life with the world, yet consider that part of her life private, shows how fluid her understanding of privacy is. It is hard to imagine that she is alone in this way of thinking. No doubt this viewpoint is increasingly common—we just need to look at the public uproar at Facebook’s privacy policies, yet a billion people today still share personal information on the site. The fact is that the nature of “private” and “public” have always been subjective, even before the emergence of networked environments. Often, our understanding of the two is linked to context and selfexpression, the way we may divulge a particular bit of information to a confidante, but will deem the very same tidbit not for the consumption of others. The same can be said of our online identities. The videos were created by two people who were just sharing it with a limited audience who, ac- November 16-29, 2012 Sex bloggers Lee and Tan being interviewed by Star Media Group in Petaling Jaya. cording to Lee, were “mostly Westerners” as “a form of art”. But it went viral when online site Gutterpost picked it up. This led to the videos being taken out of the context of its creators’ intentions. It is, however, hard to blame people, particularly their critics, from looking at it differently. After all, in isolation, these videos don’t look very different from the millions of others which appear on various sites on the Internet. And isn’t this an age in which personalities like Paris Hilton and K i m K a rd a s h i a n go t t h e i r b i g breaks from the “release” of sex tapes? The difference, however, was that both celebrities claimed the release of the tapes was unauthorised—and therefore, an invasion of their privacy. Tan and Lee’s intentions were different, although what they did is not exactly new. With the advent of recording technology—from digital cameras to webcams to smartphones—millions around the world are creating such videos and sharing them online on a daily basis. But the issue of privacy in digital culture is not just about how each person understands and perceives it. Digital technologies are also making it much easier for people to breach those private spaces. A case in point is the 2008 scandal involving sex photos by Hong Kong star Edison Chen, who had sent his laptop for repair, only to have them downloaded and distributed. In this case, as with Hilton and Kardashian, you don’t have to do the uploading yourself—if someone gets access, they might do it for you. It just goes to show that if you really want something to remain private, keep it off the Internet or better still, don’t put it in any digital form. As for the issue of “private” and “public”, some people’s understanding of the former has no doubt changed in recent years but as can be seen from the backlash Tan and Lee received, society still has sharply different views on the latter. • 29 HEALTH By Chularat Saengpassa and Pongphon Sarnsamak The Nation Thailand succeeds in stem-cell research despite lack of funding ❖❖ Bangkok T hailand is fascinated with “roadmaps”, but when it comes to life-or-death matters like regenerative science, the country has none. Shinya Yamanaka and John Gurdon cheered regenerative scientists around the world, including those working on stem-cell body rebuilding in private and public hospitals here, when they were awarded the Nobel Prize for Physiology or Medicine in October. But looking back at the environment at home, Thai scientists sighed. Local development of the technique has been direction-less and under-funded. Stem-cell research has drawn attention from scientists around the world, including Thai scientists, ever since South Korea’s Dr Hwang Woo-suk and his team re- STEM CELL RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENTIN THAILAND HOSPITALS ENGAGED IN RESEARCH: 7 em -da br y-o yo ld The Perfect Cure ported that they had successfully created human embryonic stem cells by cloning in 2005. Even though much of this “breakthrough” research was later found to have been faked, many researchers and scientists in Thailand continued to follow their curiosity to discover how to effectively use stem cells for treatment. Over the past decade, stem cellrelated research centres have mushroomed at public and private educational institutions and hospitals across the country, such as centres for heart disease, diabetes, Alzheimer’s disease, Parkinson’s disease, thalassemia and leukaemia. Already this year, at least three universities have reported success in stem-cell research. Chulalongkorn University early Siriraj: Plans to establish a stem-cell bank using tissue from pregnant women such as umbilical chords, amniotic fluid and placentas. Chulalongkorn: Operates Thailand’s first human embryonic stem-cell bank and will conduct tests on guinea pigs next year. Police General: It will set up a STEP centre to treat degenerative joints. Lerd-Sin: Researching the use of bone-marrow stem cells to treat HIV patients. Bangkok: Is providing stem-cell treatment for bone marrow transplant. Ramathibodi Hospital: Researching the use of adult stem cells to treat patients with arthritis. Srinakharinwirot University: Researching the use of adult stem cells to treat patients with arthritis. Stem cells can treat: ¬ Blood diseases like leukaemia*; ¬ Alzheimer’s; ¬ Parkinson’s; ¬ Heart disease; ¬ Cancer; ¬ Diabetes; ¬ Arthritis Source: The Nation 30 • Stem cell beauty treatments: ¬ Solves skin problems ¬ Eliminates wrinkles, acne and eye bags ¬ Moisturises dry skin ¬ Stimulates skin cell renewal ¬ Restores facial tissue ¬ Enhances elasticity ¬ Reduces the appearance of fine lines ¬ Makes skin youthful * The Medical Council has only approved stem-cell treatment for blood diseases like leukaemia and thalassemia. Use of stem-cell preparations for aesthetic purposes has not been approved yet. NATION GRAPHICS November 16-29, 2012 By Thanapat Kitjakosol The Nation this year proclaimed that it was the first in Thailand to produce human embryonic stem cells and established the country’s first embryonic stem-cell bank. The Police General Hospital has developed adult stem cells to treat arthritis sufferers. The hospital is now conducting a clinical trial on 60 arthritis patients aged 45-60. The human trial is expected to be completed next year. ● Lack of support But looking behind their success stories, we can see that most of them had to rely on their own funds to establish their laboratories and conduct studies. Only a portion of the money came from the government. “The government has never paid attention to supporting scientific research. We had to use our own funds collected from donations to do stem-cell research and conduct studies,” Lt-General Jongjet Aojanepong, director of Police General Hospital said. Researchers need not only funding but also a national roadmap to steer stem-cell research and development. “Stem-cell therapy will be a key treatment in the near future. We need a formal forum to see the future together,” he said. Stem-cell research is booming in Thailand, but there is no central organisation to systematically manage the research budget and chart the direction of stem cell research. Even though the government has set up the National Research Council of Thailand (NRCT) to oversee all research in the country, most of the budget was allocated to support research on agriculture, which is a priority need for the country. The council gets about 10 billion baht (US$325,600) from the government to support all research in the country, but only 60 million-100 million baht per year goes to stem-cell research, said Dr Soottiporn Chittrmittrapap, secretary-general of the NRCT. “I think the number of people who might benefit from stem cell research is only in the hundreds—[less than] in other fields,” he said. However, he agreed with Jongjet’s idea of drafting a national roadmap so that Thailand can have a clear direction for researchers and scientists to conduct research. November 16-29, 2012 Saving lives P etcharat Pokrang says it is a miracle that her 7- y e a r - o l d s o n P a l wawat, or “Ton Kla”, survived after being diagnosed with severe aplastic anaemia—a condition in which bone marrow fails to produce sufficient new blood cells—in April last year. Doctors in Saraburi told her the boy would not survive without a bone-marrow transplant, which costs up to 1 million baht (US$32,600). Petcharat could not afford it. But as the boy’s condition worsened—the whites of his eyes turned red and he experienced oral bleeding—his doctor helped him to obtain assistance from the Ramathibodi Hospital Foundation to seek free treatment. Ton Kla received a stem-cell transplant using tissue taken from his younger brother Noppaklao in August. He was rel e a s e d f ro m h o s p i ta l o n e month later and now lives a normal life, playing with his friends. Ton K la’s is just one of many lives that the Ramathibodi Hospital Foundation has saved. Dr Suradet Honging, vice president in charge of stemcell transplants at Ramathibodi Hospital, said stem-cell technology had enabled the hospital to treat patients suffering from liver and kidney disease, leukaemia, lymphom a , t h a l a ss e m i a , a pl a s t i c anemia and immuno-def iciency. The hospital is seeking app rova l f ro m t h e Nat i o n a l Health Security Off ice (NHSO) to allow patients suffering from these diseases to receive free treatment under NHSO sponsorship. Less than 10 per cent of the Thai popu- lation can afford an organ or stem-cell transplant, Suradet said. “There are more than 4,000 people who are suffering from thalassemia and waiting to get stem-cell transplants; every day some die before they can reach hospital,’’ he said. The hospital was the first in Thailand to carry out a liver transplant from a parent to a child, and the first in Asia to successfully perform k i d n ey a n d b o n e - m a r row transplants, which free patients from the need to take immune system suppressants. “We are the first hospital in the country to perform a stem-cell transplant from a person who was not a blood relative of the patient,’’ Suradet said. Currently, the odds of finding a stem-cell donor whose tissue matches a patient are 1 in 30,000, because Thailand started to seek stem-cell donations just 10 years ago, and has only 140,000 registered donors. The hospital has performed more than 600 bone-marrow transplants since 1989. Due to limited state funding, medical facilities and personnel, the hospital can only perform stem-cell and organ transplants for 10 people per month. The professor has called on the government to increase funding for research in stemcell technology, as he believes the hospital has the potential to become the region’s leader in this field. “Research in this medical technology can def initely improve Thais’ health and well-being, which in turn will help save the state money needed to provide medical treatment for patients,” Dr Suradet said. *US$1=30.7 baht • 31 ENTERTAINMENT By Ina Parlina Asia News Network Best Talent winner Beni Tukishima from Japan. Noa Herrera from Venezuela dances as Odette in ‘Swan Lake’. And Best Talent C Award Goes To... ❖❖ Pattaya S hamim A sh raf/A s ia News Networ k contestants vying for this year’s international queen prove they are more than just pretty faces 32 • heerful melody from the “Willy Wonka and the C h o c o l a t e Fa c t o r y ” musical film started to pl ay and t wo Oompa L o o m p a s — c re a t ure s f ro m t h e film—popped out from the colourful dress of Ruby Bel la Cruz, one of 2012 Miss International Queen contestants from the United States. Cr uz, who looked ver y tal l because of her stilts, danced swiftly with the two. The funky mood of the stage changed as Noa Herrera from Venezuela danced to “Swan Lake”. S h e p l ay e d a s i m p l e s o l o a s Odette, the white swan. Not even a single jete—one of Ballet jumps—nor a perfect Swan Lake’s lame duck turn piqué turn en dehors, but the crowd still applaused. On October 30, three days before the final judgment night, 15 contestants w ith best performances—out of 21—showed off November 16-29, 2012 Imanni Da Silva tries to wow the judges with her burlesque dance. their talents in front of the judges at the Aksra Theatre in Bangkok. In black red satin attire, Angolan Imanni Da Silva performed some kind of a burlesque dance. She even lit a candle at the end of her show. Ly i ng o n t h e f l o o r, s h e l a t e r poured the hot wa x to her chest. Another constant from Russia preferred a simple modern dance. Veronika, who is deaf, played a heart-breaker woman who was chased by four men. The 25-yearold danced confidently. Back in Russia, she is a theatre manager. S i x o t h e r c o n t e s t a n t s , wh o could not perform that night as they did not meet the talent night’s prequalification, watched the shows from afar. Sitting at the b a c k row, t h e y c h e e re d t h e i r friends on. “They are all good,” one of them said. A 32-year-old Mexican Morgana stood out singing “Besame Mucho” during the talent night. “That was easy. All my life, I have been singing,” said Morgana November 16-29, 2012 ‘Willy Wonka’ dance by Ruby Bella Cruz from The United States. who is a singer in her country. Kev in Balot, 21, who was crowned 2012 Miss International Queen, said she did not have time to prepare for her performance. She took her chance by dancing a popular quirky move by Korean rapper Psy. “Before the talent night, I watched some music videos, and I picked it up from ‘Gangnam Style’ music video],” she said, adding she only had two days to prepare. “I start to move my legs like this,” she said, mimicking Psy’s move in the “Gangnam Style” music video that has been a viral hit. They tried so hard to impress the judges that night. But, it was Japanese Beni Tuk ishima who stole the show. The crowd cheered as Tukishima’s left hand, out of a sudden, popped off and fell to the ground. She cried; it was a sacrifice for a guy he loved. Later, a dancer showered the stage with little shreds of glittering paper to duplicate a sakura shower. And the couple reunited again. Tukishima won the Best Talent award for her Japanese theatrical performance. “I have to lose my hand to win the award,” she said, laughing. The 36-year old added that her preparations for the talent night took two months. “I’m always confident; I prepared everything [for her show] all by myself […] choreography, costumes,” said Tukishima who is an owner of a show lounge in Japan. Head judge Seri Wongmonta said their performances showed that they were more than just pretty faces. “They are talented. They have many things worth to consider as human beings,” he said. “ They can do what other genders can do.” That night, Da Silva won as first runner-up and Matrica Mae Centino, who performed a Broadway style song, was second runner-up title. • 33 LIFESTYLE By Shamim Ashraf Asia News Network Filipino model Stefania Cruz puts on make-up backstage. In Pursuit Of Acceptance Transgender beauties from 15 countries hope to promote recognition of the third gender S hamim A sh raf/A s ia News Networ k ❖❖ Pattaya T he silence seems deafening. All the overhead lights go out, except the spotlight focusing on just two of them. The cheering crowd turns silent. A flustered Kevin walks to Jessika slowly. Her heart beating fast, she grabs Jessika’s hand, embraces her. “And the title of Miss International Queen 2012 goes to the Philippines’...” Kevin feels she is col34 • lapsing. She throws up her hands in the air in utter ecstasy. Scores of shutters keep on clicking as the Tiffany’s Show theatre comes to life again with the announcement. A s t e a r s r o l l d o w n Ke v i n ’s cheeks, beyond control, Thailand’s Sirapassorn Atthayakorn, winner of the 2011 competition, hugs her. The Filipino holds her tightly. “Once that I’ve got the recognition on world stage, I hope my dad will now discover that he has a son and a daughter in me. He has big expectations from me since I’m the only boy in the family,” she gushes minutes later, as journalists from local and international media houses pour onto the stage. Balot will tell her father and people back home that her physical feature has more to do with taking pride than feeling ashamed of. “Be yourself. Have confidence in your talent no matter what your sexual preference is. But make sure you are doing the right thing,” she says. The awards earn the winner and the two runners-up—Brazilian model Jessika Simoes, 27, and Thai Panvilas Mongkol, 22—cash and other prizes. But it’s the recognition that they hope will help them in their call for freedom and equality for transgender people. The three happily reply to journalists’ queries, mostly on their future plans. But it has not been a happy story all throughout. “You know the Philippines is a Catholic Christian society and people are not ready to accept gay people like us. You have to be either man or woman. There is no November 16-29, 2012 Ruby Bella Cruz of the United States poses during the final round. Jessika Simoes (left) and Panvilas Mongkol, first and second runners-up, kiss the winner. recognition of the third gender,” says Kevin, a nursing graduate from Far Eastern University. Talking with Asia News Network, she says her boyfriend left her as she decided to take part in the competition. “But I decided to pursue my dream.” T h e s a m e c o n f i d e n c e g ive s Kevin an edge over the two other contestants during the question and answer segment in the final round of the pageant at seaside city Pattaya on November 2. “All the participants are beautiful and talented. But simple, being simple makes me simply the best,” she replies when asked what makes her a standout among the contestants. Co m m e n t i n g o n h e r p e rfo rmance after the competition, head judge Seri Wongmonta says: “We really looked at her in the first round because she’s lovely, and she is very personable. We liked the way she answered the question. She’s really smart.” For the contestants, it’s a platform to express their thoughts and opinion. And that’s what lies at the core of the competition, which, now in its eighth year, drew 21 transvestite or transsexual contestants from 15 countries, who were born male. As they vied for the title of the competition fashioned after the Miss World beauty pageant, contestants from places as far as Guam, Brazil, Japan and Indonesia proved that their sexual preference does not make them lesser human beings. This year’s contestants November 16-29, 2012 Kevin Balot takes questions from journalists minutes into winning the title. were a mixture of models, singers, dancers, theatre managers, actresses, fashion designers and even a bank executive and telecommunication officer. Aptly themed “Gallery of Glamour”, the pageant raised 442,800 baht (US$14,383) which will be donated to the Chaipattana Foundation. The contest is about more than just outer beauty. It is about celebrating success, education and talent too, the organisers say. “I would thank my mom for giving birth to me,” a proud Simoes says when asked who she would call if she won the competition. Most of the contestants travelled to Thailand at their own expense to compete in the pageant hoping to show the world—and their families—their existence. As the competition drew to a close, the heat could be felt backstage. The contestants opened up before journalists how difficult life is for transgender and transsexuals. “I was five years old when boys started to push me away because I looked a little different,” Imanni Da Silva from Angola says, adding that bullying and discrimination continued. It was the f ifth competition across the world for the 31-year-old artist. “No more [beauty contests],” she says, adding she would continue her profession in the fashion industry. Stressing the need for organising such pageants, she says: “This is more about showing our courage than about a beauty contest. This is to show that we’re happy to be who we are...Some people don’t understand us. Some people think we are animals.” Matrica Mae Centino, 25, from Guam earned her father’s “dislike” for being “different” when she was three. “My father did not like that I was weak, unlike his other sons. So, it was an everyday struggle at home,” Centino, who won the Miss Perfect Skin prize, says, adding that life could be unbearable for her had she not gotten the support of her mother and brothers. “Whenever you are out there at schools, in the street or anywhere, people would tease you, call you “ l a d y b oy ”, a n d d i s c r i m i n a t e against you at every stage of life.” “I’m tired of this struggle to prove myself as a human being,” she says. Mexican opera singer Morgana, 32, also had to undergo “problems” at her own home after she was found to be different at the age of four. Asked why he joined the competition, she says: “To know about persons like me in other countries.” Some of the contestants, like 26-year-old Romanian Tanja, deliberately needed recognition to fight their cause back home. “If I win the title, I will be the mother of the transgenders and transvestites in my country. We will no longer have to struggle much to prove ourselves, our worth as human being, like others in the society—male and female.” • 35 ENTERTAINMENT Photo provided to The Ja karta P ost By Adisti Sukma Sawitri The Jakarta Post behind the screen ASIAN FILMMAKERS LOOK FOR A FORMULA THAT WILL ATTRACT THE AUDIENCE ❖❖ Busan I t is almost destiny that the Hallyu, the Korean cultural wave, has finally swept the world. Given saturation in Japan and uninspired d e ve l o p m e n t i n C h i n a , Ko re a’s media industry has hypnotised and inspired locals and even Asians with its glitz and dynamism in music and movies. The Korean movie industry has a long-standing reputation for quality, making the nation’s cinema one of the few that survived the onslaught of Hollywood productions. Surviving the censorship era in 1980, the local industr y has benefited from a government protectionist policy introduced in the 1990s. The government has imposed quotas on commercial theatres to show locally made movies. A fter almost two decades, Koreans have found it hard to love films other than their own movies. In Aug ust, the Korean blockbuster The Thieves beat the US blockbuster The Avengers as the No. 1 film at the local box office, a frequent 36 • South Korean blockbuster ‘The Thieves’. occurrence in Korea, but something that is rare in Europe and other Asian countries. The action movie, which resembles Steven Soderbergh’s heist picture Ocean’s Eleven, is a proof that as an industry, South Korea film has reached its full flower. Directed by Choi Dong-hoo, it has grossed over US$82 million domestically. But South Korea has not only followed Hollywood’s path. The ultraviolent film Pieta made by Korean auteur director Kim Ki-duk received the best picture award from the Venice Film Festival, one of the world’s most influential events. It was not even for his first time on the red carpet: In 2004, Kim won best director awards from the Berlin Film Festival and the Venice Film Fetival. ∞µ Shortcomings The industry also has its shortcomings. Benefiting from government protection, it has not completely escaped the ethos of Hollywood, which only eyes large commercial projects. Film director Choi Equan said that to reach wider audiences, the industr y has long departed from auteur cinema. “A lack of attention to artistic films has also exerted a negative effect on the film industry, leading the industry to become more profitseeking,” Choi, who also heads the Korean Academy of Film Arts, said. He said that the biggest problem was that that supply exceeds the demand. In other words, there is no way to make a profit. “The government has been trying to recover the value-added market, such as through online download sites, where illegal downloading was done,” he said. Exporting more movies abroad has also seemingly become inevitable. ∞µ Southeast Asia cases In Southeast Asia, national movie industries hardly exist and local movies are not the darling of local cinemas. When The Avengers arrived in Indonesia early this year, movie theatres used almost all their screens for the movie—as if there were no local movies waiting for distribution at the same time. “It is clear that local theatres prioritise Hollywood,” said the awardwinning Indonesian director Edwin, who prefers distributing his works in festivals and outside the country. The gap between moviemakers and producers on one side and theatres on the other did not emerge without reasons. Another I n d o n e s i a n d i r e c t o r , Te d d y Soeriaatmadja, admitted that many Indonesian movies nowadays were not selling. After the supernova of Riri Riza’s “Laskar Pelangi” (Rainbow Troops) emerged in 2008 and collected about 4.6 million viewers, movies today are striving just to reach 1 million tickets sold at the box office. Even the internationally acclaimed and locally made action f lick The November 16-29, 2012 By Adisti Sukma Sawitri The Jakarta Post Raid: Redemption released this year, only sold 1.8 million tickets. “About 10 years ago, it was the producers who kept asking me to make movies—any movie that I had in mind. But these days, it just doesn’t go that way,” said Soeriaatmadja. He said that while there was a growing interest to make various kinds of movies in the country, the government should help nurture the industry. In Philippines, the countr y’s National Statistics Board reported that only a third of the 229 productions screened in the c o u n t r y l a s t ye a r we re f ro m home. T he rest were from Hollywood. The relatively small portion of local movies, however, also is not a sign of declining interests in movie-making. In 2012, for the first time, the Philippines saw a locally made movie, The Road—a horror film about a haunted estate—get a c o m m e rc i a l re l e a s e i n No r t h America. Written and directed by Yam Laranas, who had his earlier work Sigaw (Scream) remade in the US, the movie depicts scenes that look as good as any Iranian art-house film. Laranas said that it took more than just quality pictures to win a wider audience, especially in North America. “If there is an Asian film with a good story that can resonate with a universal audience—and then add a huge sum of money to promote it—then you may have a chance of making it,” he said. Laranas said a huge budget for promotion and marketing was required for any movie to make it in the US. “Let’s just say that US$1 million is just enough to help create awareness in a market as big a s N o r t h A m e r i c a . Te n t p o l e movies in the US with a $100mil lion budget almost always have the same marketing budget,” he said. November 16-29, 2012 In Busan, the Auteur Meets the Commercial W hile Hollywood floods the world with effects-driven franchise films and strays from independent productions, an Asian festival shows that auteur and commercial are still boiling in one pot. We l c o m e t o t h e B u s a n International Film Festival. It is the place where critically acclaimed French fantasy drama Holy Motors screened alongside Choi Donghoon’s The Thieves and Bangladeshi satire about traditional Muslim’s technology phobia, Television. Growing with the local movie industry for 17 years, the festival has developed multiple initiatives to make it more than just a gallery of Asian films. The festival’s Asia Film Market is evidence that Busan also means business. It has evolved into a place where Asian moviemakers get funding and widen networks. “Busan real ly looks into the quality of the films that they do. They have established themselves over the years to be a very important film festival not only to Asian market, but also internationally. We look at Busan to see projects and inform us about the projects that we should be looking at,” said Tamir Muhammad, the features director of Tribec a Film Institute. Selecting thousands of film projects for funding every year, Muhammad said that he is proud that the institute has supported “Abigail Harm”, a US-Chinese co-production about a lonely woman living in fictionalised New York City. Inspired by the Korean folktale The Woodcutter and the Nymph, the project was presented at the film market last year. Iranian independent film distributor Mohammad Attebai, who has come to the festival eight times, said he counted on Busan to find funding amid the slumping local industry after the country was imposed with economic sanctions. Attebai presented Persian Gulf, an anthology of seven stories about the life of people in the region who are worried about possible war in the region. The project finally secured $25,000 in grants for post-production a fter w inning festival’s pitching session Asian Project Market’s Technicolor Asia Award. Korean director, Hur Jin-ho, tries his take to adapt famous novel Dangerous Liaisons into a Chinese production featuring international actress Zhang Ziyi and Korean Jang Dong-gun. The novel has been adapted to the silver screen five times, including Hollywood’s version in 1988. The film project was also presented at the festival’s film market last year. When the four-day film market concluded on October 11, another large-sc ale Korean production, Masquerade, sold its distribution rights to Japanese distributor Twin. ∞µ From festival to blockbuster The Thieves, is an exceptional movie that is considered experim e n t a l t o l o c a l t a s t e s , wh i c h mainly stil l prefer to go w ith drama genre, but could still have commercial success. In the intern a t i o n a l s c e n e , h o w e v e r, t h e movie would easily fall into the Hollywood stereotype for success —large budget, star-studded with international names and a full swing of action. Th e Thieves, wh i c h w a s f i r s t traded along with other independent projects at Busan festival’s market, has been in commercial release in North America since October 12. If Hallyu made it to North America, it would be a full circle after rapper Psy’s global invasion with his horse-prancing Gangnam dance. But, chances are unlikely after Ocean’s Thirteen was released five years ago. • 37 PEOPLE By Jintana Panyaarvudh The Nation Willment Leong, third from right, holds the Thai national flag with his winning team at the IKA World Culinary Olympics 2012 in Germany. The Leong Way To Cook A culinary guru runs a worldclass boot camp for the next best chef 38 • ❖❖ Bangkok L ess than 20 years ago, the man behind the success of Thailand’s recent culinary Olympics was so down on his luck that he was seriously considering suicide. Willment Leong has long been out of the emotional doldrums but his past problems are today proving of benefit to Thailand’s youth. Three years ago, as a way of saying thanks to Thailand, which he has called home for the last 13 years, Leong sunk his entire savings into setting up the Thailand Culinary Academy (TCA). The aim, he says, is to groom both young Thai chefs and professional chefs. “During my hard times, I earned money working here so I wanted to give something back to Thai society. I can see the forte of Thai chefs so founding the academy makes a lot of sense,” says Leong, who recently led a group of Thai November 16-29, 2012 chefs to the IKA World Culinary Olympics 2012 in Germany where they won four gold medals and one silver. For the chairman of the academy, winning at the world’s most prestigious culinary competition is recognition that he’s on the right track. Born into a poor family, Leong was pushed hard by his father, who borrowed money to pay his tuition. Told he would never starve to death if he learned how to cook, Leong reluctantly studied cooking for one year after finishing junior high but failed to graduate. He found two jobs, working two eighthour shifts to make enough money to survive. “Being born poor doesn’t mean you will be poor forever. If you are confident, diligent and devote your life to work, you can succeed one day,” says Leong in fluent Thai. Leong succeeded enough to open his own business but when that failed, he became suicidal. Just 25, he was talked out of killing himself by a respected elder, fleeing the wrath of his creditors by heading first to Cambodia then to Thailand where he found work as a chef. ● Living a dream Founding the TCA has been a dream for the past several years. “I love to create things that are unique and different. If I had said three years ago that I would be ready to send Thai youths to compete in the Culinary Olympics, people would have laughed at me,” he grins. Leong put some 2.5 million baht (US$81,400) into his academy. “Luckily, my parents supported my i d e a . Th ey sa i d t h at eve n though my rivals at the Olympics included a fellow Singaporean, I needed to win for the Thais.” November 16-29, 2012 The 42-year-old chef quit his permanent job at a five-star hotel seven months ago to focus on the academy. “If I’d carried on working, we would not have achieved the biggest awards in Germany,” he says. “But all the credit must go to the Thais. Without Thai support and the Thai students, the academy would never have happened.” Founded in 2009, the TCA focuses on sending Thai chefs to compete in international cooking contests. Leong offers free study and training. The academy has so far produced 80 chefs and they’ve bagged 44 trophies, 60 gold medals, 50 silver medals and 60 bronze medals. Leong organises a few cooking contests in Thailand, coaches and also recruits potential Thai chefs for international contests. The academy, now located at Suan Dusit Rajabhat University, receives most of its funding from businessmen and private sectors. Only a few state agencies have recently offered support. “Trophies or medals are not what I want. What’s important to me is that Thai youths see the outside world, learn new experiences, get to know strengths and weaknesses of foreigners, and bring back these experiences to transfer to their compatriots,” he says. Over the last 20 years, expat chefs have all but ignored Thais on the world competition stage. “Today they feel scared of Thai teams because our goal is to sweep as many medals as we can,” he says. “I want Thai chefs and Thai cuisine to be better known worldwide.” ● Boot camp Leong says his young student chefs are keen to adapt and flexible but tend to lack discipline, so he uses the “boot camp” approach learned both from his dad and his own military training. “I test them with tough lessons to see if they can stand. For me there is no left or right. You go straight and you will be able to complete your mission,” he says. He is also very serious about punctuality. Any student arriving late has to walk to the place where the contest is being held. “When I assign my students a task and they ask me when I will need it, I will say yesterday,” he says. Producing a talented or medalwinning chef isn’t hard, Leong says. What is far more difficult is managing feelings and characters. “One of the most serious problem with Thai chefs is that they never truly learn the basics of Thai food. Instead they learn how to cook Western dishes and how to use cooking equipment, which is very sad,” he says. “There’s nothing wrong in learning Western food but our chefs need to learn how to cook Thai food and to adapt Western food to Thai food. That will give us the advantage in competition,” he says. “International food is tasteless while Thai food tastes ‘just right’ so Thai chefs will be able to benefit more than other nations when tasting the food.” With his own money running out, the academy is now facing funding problems but Leong intends to keep it running for as long as he can. “I was so happy when I saw the smiles on my students’ faces before competition and after they won the prizes from our first win in Dubai. That’s inspirational and something money cannot buy,” says Leong. • 39 Photo s from Thai C ulinary Academy The Thailand Culinary Academy’s 22-member team won three gold medals, two silver medals and 13 bronze medals during the Singapore Expo competition in April. TRAVEL By M. Taufiqurrahman The Jakarta Post Tale of Two Cities Stairway to Shwedagon pagoda in Yangon. ❖❖ Naypyitaw/Yangon Ph otos provided to The Ja karta P o st O ther than the massive 1 5-lane thoroughfare that could double as an airstrip, another spectacular attraction in the new capital of Myanmar, is the parliamentary building. It is a massive imperial compound that can only be gawked from a distance. Far enough to see what really happens inside—but then again, the long distance may be intentional, because not a lot happens inside the building. The country’s lower house only has five sessions per year and we can safely assume that lawmakers, and majority of public officials, don’t want to be in Naypyitaw in the first place. Naypyitaw is the place where no one wants to be. As one travel writer succinctly puts it, this is the place where “no one bothered settling over the past 2,000 years”. Had it not been for a sudden decision 40 • by the military junta, only farmers and cattle herds would live in this arid, mountain-framed spot in Central Myanmar, 400km south of the old capital, Yangon. Had it not been for the construction boom ahead of the SEA Games 2013 and the influx of foreigners and investors, who are now jockeying for getting the first contracts from the local government, Naypyitaw could easily win the title as the dullest capital city in the world. This is the place where most of government buildings are painted grey as if to match the overhanging cloud that graces its September afternoon sky. Even travellers will only walk to a modern but deserted, concreteand-glass airport with no duty-free shops or even a refreshment stand. And the 45-minute travel from the terminal to downtown Naypyitaw is a trip back in time. A long a six-lane tree-lined highway, there’s nothing to see but a long stretch of paddy fields with buffaloes grazing on them and the city limit is hard to find. This is probably what much of Southeast Asia looked like in the late 1950s or 1960s. Pe ople k n ow t hat t hey a re in Naypyitaw when they begin to see signs of hotel, government buildings and a handful of shopping malls. Then there’s the inexplicably large presence of Thai restaurants. With s o m a ny Ja pa n e s e, C h i n e s e, American businessmen and UN wo rke rs co m i n g i n to t h e c i ty following the lifting of the sanction by Western governments, these Thai establishments appear to be the only place where the foreigners can gather after a long hot stay in a place where nothing ever happens. Even on the busiest working day, the biggest traffic that this capital city has is the convoy of military truck followed by a handful of locals speeding on their Chinesemade motorbikes. A n d i n a c i ty w i t h s o l i tt l e attractions, the most visited site is the parliament, although it does November 16-29, 2012 not function as a tourist attraction. The compound was surrounded by a 5-metre-tall fence that will bar visitors from entering the premise, but close enough for them to snap photos from a distance. Military personnel stationed to guard the compound are lazily plopping down their M16 on their lap. “Don’t get too close,” shouted a taxi driver when tourists stood too close to the fence. Why work hard to maintain security when they can deputise the job to the general population? So much for a police state! The job of maintaining security, which can also mean confusing foreigners, is also deputised to road signs, which are all written in local script. No wonder if people believe that the regime moved to this capital because they fear Iraqlike invasion, the road sign appears to confuse all the ground troops parachuted to the city. The fence that circles the parliament building is in fact symbolism for the top-down political liberalisation in Myanmar. There have been talks that the current regime, learning from the breakdown of sociopolitical order in transitional Indonesia, hold on to the reins of democratisation tightly and decide how fast it ought to go. The fenced parliament building is another way for the junta of telling its people that the regime will set the terms for transition to democracy. In Yangon, such liberalisation means that the face of Aung San S u u Ky i c a n b e p l a s t e r e d o n T-shirts to be sold to tourists and the logo of her political party can Streets of Yangon. November 16-29, 2012 Shwedagon pagoda in Yangon. now appear on coffee mugs. It can also mean that the first sign that foreigners see when they enter Yangon is the oversized banners for Coca-Cola and Samsung attached to the wall of the city’s international airport. Inside Yangon, these Coca-Cola and Samsung billboards have to vie for space with ones promoting thanakha (traditional makeup) with pictures of plus-size Myanmar beauties smiling proudly. The juxtaposition of old and new, West and traditional, is now what gives new colour to Yangon. Travelling next to each other, in the narrow streets of Yangon, are the latest edition of Japanese SUVs and rickety old trucks and taxis that Asia left behind in the late 1960s. While the affluent and the powerful get cellular services and free WiFi at the lobby of some of the city’s plush hotels, tourist spots and at the ground of the world-renown Shwedagon pagoda, longyi-wearing, betel-chewing Yangon locals can easily be spotted using landline connections from makeshift payphones at almost all bus stops throughout the city. Behind some of the city’s modest shopping malls are traditional markets bustling with buyers and vendors haggling over a slice of watermelon, 1kg of rice or the traditional betel mix. Anti-smoking campaigns will probably be of little use in this city, as none of males in the city seem to smoke. The relative absence of smoke— be it from car exhaust, factories or smokers—gives Yangon the feel of an imperial town from the time when kings and regents still ruled their subjects. If you can ignore the SUVs and ubiquitous roadside Samsung ads, you can easily think that this is still the same city that George Orwell came to in 1924, before he embarked on a journey to shoot that famous elephant. Of course there are the people, men in longyi and petite demure women in traditional dress, who exude a quiet confidence. Their demeanour supports the impression of their ability to endure decades of isolation. It takes a great deal of patience— and almost an hour—just to get a ride on a packed public transportation truck. Drivers wait patiently for the traffic to pass, on some of the city’s congested narrow roads— and they only honk when they are trying to overtake other motorists. This patience has enabled life in Yangon to move at a slow, glacial pace. After all, what should you do when generals call all the shots — there are even instructions to go vegan on national TV! And probably 20 years from now when capitalism is already in full swing, when high-rises dominates Yangon skyline, when women are already dressed in Zara and most of the men suited-up en route to some glass and steel office, when congestion is worse, people of Yangon will rue the day when life drifted by slowly like the clouds that The gate to the parliament building in Nay Pyi Taw. roll by in the city’s monsoon sky. • 41 EXPLORE By Wayne Johnson The Star day out in haunted city For some spinetingling places, Tokyo is the place to be ❖❖ Tokyo The Star photo s I must confess that after arrangi n g to j o i n a g u i d e d wa l k called Haunted Tokyo, I was expecting something gimmicky, despite the positive reviews I had read on the Internet. My previous experience of ghost tours had been in Edinburgh and London, which, rather than being scary, had, in fact, degenerated into pantomime. So, although I was interested to find out about Tokyo’s eerie edges, I was a little sceptical. While waiting at the meeting place, Shinomasi train station, I kept expecting to spot a large group of over-excited tourists, or a large sign with dripping red characters advertising Ghost Walks. After 20 minutes of scouring the station for signs of non-Japanese people, I started wondering if this was not the beginning of supernatural happenings, i.e. the walk didn’t really exist. However, I was relieved when a small group finally began to gather 42 • A painting of Oiwa who is the spirit portrayed in Ju-On and The Ring. Lore and legends: The more the prayer sticks the more active the spirits. around a petite and unassuming lady dressed all in black—without a pointy hat or horror make-up— who announced that her name was Lilly and that she would be our guide to “the most haunted city in the world”. The group was a mix of Americans, British, Cambodians and Chinese, all united in their love of Japanese horror movies and their curiosity over Tokyo’s mysterious underbelly. Lilly came equipped with a portfolio of photos and colourful pict u re s d e p i c t i n g To kyo’s pa s t , alongside those of hideous spectres and demons of Japanese folklore. And she began by showing us images of how Tokyo had been rocked and devastated by various earthquakes, fires and bombing raids from the Edo period until World War II. This bloody history helped buttress her belief that Tokyo had more ghosts than any other city in the world. Listening to Lilly, who had an excellent understanding of the Japanese language and culture, was itself an interesting experience, and somehow I felt we were in safe hands should we be confronted by an angry demon or spectre. As we left the station, she explained that Japanese people hate to move and it’s the same with their ghosts, so older neighbourhoods tend to have a large collection of spirits. Japanese people respect and accept this, and apparently most homes in these areas have goblins or demons hanging outside to ward off evil spirits. A short walk from the station led us to the Samegabashi district, known in the Edo period as the Valley of 1,000 Days or, more gruesomely, the Valley of Death, because of the number of cemeteries located there. The first stop on the walk, which set a suitably creepy tone, was a vertical cemetery. It resembled a small apartment block, albeit one with distinctly creepy occupants, its three floors containing the partly cremated remains of hundreds of bodies removed from an old graveyard. While we stood looking at the November 16-29, 2012 building, Lilly told us that while the Japanese cremate their deceased, the temperature of the fire is often not high enough to burn the bones, so families still bury the remains. As she told us this, she also revealed, much to our unease, that it was the first time she had ever seen a light in the upper storey window. We were all eager to move swiftly on, although, as the next stop was a haunted tunnel, we soon regretted our haste. The dimly lit road tunnel brought to mind classic images of modern Asian horror movies, where the last place you want to find yourself is a deserted road at night. Thankfully, we had safety in numbers but Lilly said that the road was rarely used because people fear the spirits here, particularly the taxi drivers who have reported being woken from their sleep by a ghostly white face in the rear view mirror. We thought it was remarkable how distant the ultra-modern glitz of Tokyo seemed in this quiet, under-lit district of small houses, apartments and cemeteries. And just as fascinating as hearing the spooky stories was seeing the dwellings in this old district, how the ancient shrines and haphazard graveyards coexisted with the cramped houses. It all seemed a million miles from the madness of Shibuya crossing, which was only 30 minutes away. This feeling intensified when we stopped to visit the grave and shrine of Hattori Hanzo, one of Japan’s most famous samurai. As the Sainenji Temple where he is buried was closed, Lilly asked us to move quietly so that we did not disturb the resident priest and his wife. But the wife unexpectedly came out and asked what we were doing there. Fortunately, in a great example of Japanese hospitality, she invited us inside the temple, where we saw Hanzo’s 14-foot-long spear November 16-29, 2012 The old district of Tokyo looks spooky at night. and helmet, which had been preserved for over 500 years. Hanzo was said to have been able to disappear and appear at will. After his death, supernatural activities have been reported near his grave. Our final stop on this three-hour tour was the most terrifying of all. No name strikes fear into Japanese people as much as Oiwa, the vengef u l s p i r i t wh i c h h a s b e e n t h e model for the evil ghosts portrayed in countless movies, including in The Ring and Ju-On. The spirit also inspired a famous play called “Yotsuya Kaidan”. Oiwa was the 17th century wife of a samurai lord who wanted to leave her for a younger woman. To rid himself of her, he set about poisoning her, and when she died in agony, he married his youthful lover. Oiwa’s spirit vowed revenge and did not rest until both the samurai and his new wife were dead. Her mission accomplished, Oiwa’s ghost was still not content and sought to bring misfortune and The supposedly haunted tunnel that is rarely in use out of fear for the supernatural. misery on all who had offended her or made her angry in any way. To appease this most vengeful of entities, the owners of her old house built a Shinto shrine to Oiwa. It’s a pilgrimage site for actors playing her part in “Yotsuya Kaidan”, who come to ask for her blessing. Lilly said the spirit remained an angry one even after all these centuries and that we should be careful not to offend her. This was the first time I sensed a genuine unease in the group, as we stood facing the shrine on a dark deserted street, with a wind rustling some red flags atop bamboo poles guarding the gate. We heaved a sigh of relief after leaving the area for a small water shrine situated inconspicuously next to a 7-11 store on a modern bustling street. Lilly asked us to take a small sip of water and sprinkled salt on our shoulders to cleanse us of any spirits that might still remain attached to us! • 43 EXPLORE By Tatin Yang Philippine Daily Inquirer Photo s by Tatin Yang Rilakkuma merchandise to commemorate Tokyo Sky Tree’s opening. Miffy wears a kimono. Kawaii Adventures More than sushi, ramen and samurai, Japan is also the land of cute ❖❖ Tokyo A fter a Sunday afternoon a t Ts u t a y a , o n e o f To k y o ’ s p o p u l a r bookstores, my friend and I were about to part ways when he insisted I stop by at Ginza. Ginza on a Sunday is a must-see for any tourist because the roads are closed to transportation, turning the wide swath of concrete into a walking and picnic area for the residents of the city. As I walked up the subway steps off Ginza station, I saw families setting up lounge chairs in the middle of the road, soaking up as much summer sun as the tall buildings and boutiques (Uniqlo is a 12-storey affair) would let in. On my way to exploring the 44 • street, I saw a crowd gathered on one of the street corners, chattering excitedly with their phones whipped out. At first I thought it was an accident, an arrest or a cel eb r i ty c a u g h t u n awa re s , s o I pushed myself through the thick of the crowd to check out what had everyone so excited: It turned out to be a pair of kittens with hair scrunchies around their necks (an Elizabethan feline reenactment?) were perched on a street sign, looking naturally cute and slightly befuddled at all the hoopla. The other foreigners behind me were chuckling and shaking their heads, marvelling at the Japanese predilection to all things cute or kawaii (with the “eeee” part drawn out as a squeal in direct proportion to how cute something is), but as a fellow kawaii-lover, I completely understood, and whipped out my own phone camera to start taking pictures of the cute kitties on their perch. ● Teeny-tiny cute This is my version of Japan. As a kid growing up, my dad would always bring home a cute gift (usually Hello Kitty themed) from his Japan trips, and I would grow up recognising Japan and cuteness to be synonymous. It’s not just the merchandise, though that is certainly a big part of it. In Inuyama City in the Aichi Prefecture north of Nagoya, for example, their mascot is a giant, friendly brown dog dressed in a robe reminiscent of shoguns named “Wanmaru-Kun”. When I asked our tour guide to explain why a dog had been chosen to symNovember 16-29, 2012 Kawaii goods are popular among trendy teens. bolise the city, he gestured that the imperial family’s symbol was a circle (wan), while at the same time, a dog’s bark is also “Wan! Wan! Wan!” (yes, this is how dogs bark phonetically in Japan), ergo, Wanmaru-kun. A neat—and thoroughly cute—explanation. Public reminders and other announcements also contain polite messages heralded by a happy cartoon or a cute animal dressed in human attire. It’s a visual treat and it leaves one a happy feeling, certainly happier than our own “Do not cross or else you die” road signs. Re s i d e n t s o f Ja pa n a re a l s o known for their fascination over keitai straps, or little charms they attach to their mobile phones. No one is exempt from the lure of the cute mobile phone charms. Even our fiftyish male tour guide Yoshisan, has a wooden cartoon fish dangling from his mobile phone. Keitai straps are ubiquitous—you can f ind these at any souvenir shop, department store, and even convenience stores. Some are sparkly, some are furry, some are teeny-tiny, while others are bigger than the actual mobile phone. ● Wealth of cuteness We should not be surprised at the wealth of cuteness in Japan. After all, it is the birthplace of the November 16-29, 2012 mouthless cat Hello Kitty who has been around forever and has been charming children and adults alike. It’s not unusual to see Hello Kitty collaborating with big designers and big brands in Tokyo, or dressed up in traditional Japanese costume or even as different kinds of sushi. At the recently opened observation deck and broadcasting tower Tokyo Skytree (currently the tallest freestanding broadcasting tower in the world at 634 metres high), long queues were not only reserved for the observation deck and museums. A queue was building up to enter and eat at Moomin House Café, a coffee shop dedicated to Moomin, characters illustrated and written by Swedish-Finn author Tove Jansson. Inside Skytree Town Solamachi’s shopping complex are shops dedicated to ubiquitous TV characters such as Domo-kun, and further down is a shop featuring one of my favourite characters, Rilakkuma ( l i te ra l ly t ra n s l ate d a s “ re l a x bear”). The Rilakkuma store was packed to the gills with mostly adults filling up baskets with every Rilakkuma-themed merchandise imaginable, from cookware, home decor, plushies, jewellery, ties and even bottled water. At Harajuku near Meiji-Jingumae, I continued my search for kawaii by braving a parade and the intense summer heat by looking for a corner shop that caters to Tintin fans. The shop, which sells Tintin merchandise exclusively is a beautiful homage to intrepid journalist Tintin and his adorable canine companion, Snowy. Tintin fans should not miss this. Fellow kawaii lovers and tourists with their kids in tow should set aside at least half a day for Kiddy Land. This five-floor shop at Harajuku is stuffed from floor to ceiling with every cute character you could possibly dream up. Each floor is dedicated to characters with cult followings—Snoopy and the Peanuts Gang, Studio Ghibli and the lovable Totoro, Disney, Hello Kitty, Rilakkuma, they’ve got everything (even the restrooms are decorated according to character), you will scream from the unbearable cuteness of everything (your wallet will also scream in agony after). As if that weren’t enough, telling shopkeepers your purchases are presents will entitle you to free gift packaging complete with cute stickers and charms to accessorise your gift wrapping with. Five days in Tokyo and I’ve barely scraped the tip of the kawaii iceberg and I can’t wait to go back and lose myself in all the kawaii goodness. • 45 DATEBOOK SH AN G H AI China Shanghai International Arts Festival During the China Shanghai International Arts Festival, the city becomes a mosaic of world arts, with venues hosting an eclectic mix of events from Chinese opera to Russian ballet. Different cultural weeks focus on BANG KO K 10th World Film Festival of Bangkok Enjoy a feast of visual aesthetics and meet and greet film directors from around the world at the 10th edition of the World Film Festival of Bangkok. This year, the festival presents a quality selection of 84 films in five categories: Cine Latino, Cinema Beat, Doc Feast, Short Wave and Asian Contemporary. The event is supported by the Office of Contemporary Art and Culture, Ministry of Culture in collaboration with Nation Broadcasting Corporation, The Nation newspaper, and Major Cineplex Group. When: November 16-25 Where: Ratchada, Bangkok promoting the talents of selected countries. Outdoor spaces become stages to create a carnivallike atmosphere in the city. In the 2012 edition, featured performances include those by vocalist Elaine Paige, and the Linguere National Ballet of Senegal. When: Until November 20 Info: www.artsbird.com SEOUL Hi Seoul Festival The Hi Seoul Festival presents themed live cultural and artistic performances at Yeouido Hangang Park and Seoul’s urban squares. The programme features street theatre, live music and parades at venues including Seoul Square. When: Until November 25 Where: www. hiseoulfest.org/2012 UT TAR P RADESH Ganga Mahotsava F U KUOKA The November Basho The greatest Sumo wrestlers in Japan, and therefore the world, congregate at the Fukuoka Kokusai Centre for the November Basho, one of the year’s six Grand Tournaments. Crowds cheer as the huge men battle using throws, trips and tricks. 46 • The best seats in the house are those situated closest to the dohyo (the ring). The large arena provides many seating alternatives, however, ranging from a simple cushion in the isu-seki (balcony) to a box-seki (similar to a corporate box). Where: Chikko-honmachi, Japan Info: www.sumo.or.jp/eng The banks of the sacred River Ganges at Varanasi transform during the spectacular Ganga Mahotsava. Thousands of Hindu pilgrims congregate each year on the ghats (steps) next to the river before dipping themselves and their oil lamps into the holy waters. Several thousand Hindu pilgrims come to the water’s edge during the day —each one carrying an oil lamp which they float on the surface. When: November 24-s27 Where: Uttar Pradesh, India November 16-29, 2012 50 years of Sino-Thai: Growing with strength and sustainability Sino-Thai Engineering & Construction Public Company Limited, one of Thailand’s leading construction companies, recently organized a grand celebration to mark the 50th anniversary of the company’s successful operations. Led by Prof. Rawat Chamchalerm, Chairman, and Mr. Vallop Rungkijvorasathien, President, and with management and employees of Sino-Thai, the event was attended by leading figures from Thailand’s business and social circles. Throughout the past 50 years, SinoThai has expanded its experiences and expertise in the construction sector, completing an extensive and varied portfolio of projects in categories covering infrastructure, buildings, power and energy, industrial and environment. The company has created numerous high-value and high-quality projects, deserving the recognition and trust of clients from the public and private sectors, both within Thailand and overseas, and always focus on delivering complete customer satisfaction. At the same time, the company has continuously given importance to social and environmental responsibility, enabling Sino-Thai to grow with strength and stability up until the present day, and to continue expanding in future as a leading Thai construction company active in the international arena. The 50th anniversary celebrations highlighted Sino-Thai’s strength and leading status in Thailand’s construction industry, with music performed by the Thailand Philharmonic Orchestra as well as Thai and international songs performed by well-known singers Nadda Viyakarn and Maneenuch Smerasuta. The event was held at the Bangkok Convention Center, 22nd Floor, Centara Grand at CentralWorld recently. AD 195x130 17.9.2012:Layout 1 17.9.2012 14:25 Uhr Seite HGRS_AsiaNewsAdvtv2_080807.qxp:Layout 1 8/31/07 9:29 1AM Page 1 “If we want sustainable architecture to be popular, we have to make it look good.” Building Asia together. Kenneth Yeang, global Holcim Awards finalist W hether you’re building or investing in factories, homes, bridges, schoolhouses or shopping malls we’re the perfect partner to make your project happen. As the No. 1 supplier of building materials in Asia we can deliver the right solutions when and where it counts. Holcim in Asia-Pacific: Australia, Bangladesh, Cambodia, China, Fiji, India, Indonesia, Laos, Malaysia, New Caledonia, New Zealand, Philippines, Singapore, Sri Lanka, Thailand, Vietnam www.holcim.com Out of 6051 submissions in the 3rd International Holcim Awards competition, two from Asia Pacific made it to global final. Left: Mahanama Ralapanawa, CEO Holcim Malaysia, handing over the finalist certificate 2012 to Kenneth Yeang for the design of a retail and commercial building in Putrajaya, Malaysia. Right: Isavaret Tamonut and Singh Intrachooto with the finalist certificate 2012 for their project “Urban Farm Urban Barn” in Bangkok, Thailand. Read more about all winning projects and their design teams at: www.holcimawards.org/apac Strength. Performance. Passion.