Sergio de Benedetti Manuscript - Chapman University Digital
Transcription
Sergio de Benedetti Manuscript - Chapman University Digital
Chapman University Chapman University Digital Commons Sergio De Benedetti Manuscript Frank Mt. Pleasant Library of Special Collections and Archives 1940 Sergio de Benedetti Manuscript (English translation) Sergio de Benedetti Follow this and additional works at: http://digitalcommons.chapman.edu/debenedetti Part of the European History Commons, Italian Language and Literature Commons, and the Political History Commons Recommended Citation de Benedetti, Sergio, "Sergio de Benedetti Manuscript (English translation)" (1940). Sergio De Benedetti Manuscript. Book 2. http://digitalcommons.chapman.edu/debenedetti/2 This Book is brought to you for free and open access by the Frank Mt. Pleasant Library of Special Collections and Archives at Chapman University Digital Commons. It has been accepted for inclusion in Sergio De Benedetti Manuscript by an authorized administrator of Chapman University Digital Commons. 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Petrarca 1 2 Chapter One A Strange Education Although in the records at the registrar's office in the city of Florence, Italy, my birth is recorded as falling in the month of August of the year 1912, my life effectively began in 1929. In the winter of that year, after a laborious and very painful reevaluation, I liberated myself of all the ideas -- ideas which were for the most part nothing more than prejudices -- which had resulted from a strange education. Then, after a period of much skepticism and pessimism, I began to gradually construct my own conception of the world on the basis of my experiences. This rebuilding of my personality is far from complete even to this day, and may well be modified in the future. This state of continual search and eternal doubt is not always very agreeable; it is, however, more satisfying to me than the acceptance of any of the ideologies that allow most people to relax lazily with a certain sense of ease. Even though I tried to construct my personality according to my experiences in the world, it would be vain to deny that my earlier life history, from the perspective of heredity and education, did not have a considerable influence on me. The influence of what I saw, heard, absorbed and learned before the year 1929 is largely confined to my subconscious; none of the doctrines and ideas that I considered to be mine before that date remained without having been subject to a severe critical evaluation. I think, though, that it would be fitting to acknowledge, at the start of these memoirs, the experiences of my childhood, in order to provide some insight into my present and future attitudes. * * * My family belongs to the Jewish petit bourgeoisie of Florence. I was born and lived the first years of my childhood in the home of my maternal grandparents Carlo and Bice Passigli. My grandfather was a businessman who had retired before the First World War with a small savings which he watched, with truly Jewish trepidation, as it shrank with the inflation. I believe that my great-grandparents, Cesare and Rosa Passigli, must have lived in the ghetto for part of their lives, and must have been admitted into Italian society by the liberal reforms of the Risorgimento. My grandfather therefore, perhaps with reflexive memories of the past, was naturally a liberal: he was always against Fascism, yet as part of the group who, through free trade, was able to pass from a condition misery to one of relative comfort, he was equally opposed to any radical movement for social reform. My mother, Amelia, had the minimal education that every Jewish family feels obligated to give its children. I consider her to have been endowed with an uncommon intelligence and sensitivity, and above of all, an insatiable thirst for truth and justice. Until a relatively advanced age, she cultivated an intellectual freshness and enthusiasm for confronting problems which, in some cases, were superior to my own. I remember, for example, her passion for learning when she took some courses in Paris at the Sorbonne and the College de France. Her overriding characteristic is a need for justice and coherence that prevents her from compromising, even on trivial matters; and this has resulted in more than a few problems for her. Her need to delve into problems and to discover new things is not, however, accompanied by what one would call a rational outlook; on the contrary, she leans towards mysticism and spirituality, which has furnished us with topics for endless discussions. When my mother is convinced of something, she is fully convinced, blocking out every doubt, and she is quite capable of sacrificing herself and others for what she thinks is right. Given that her convictions are not always the fruit of objective reasoning, this characteristic subjects her to a kind of fanaticism. However in her interactions with me, except during my adolescence, she left me rather free to develop as I pleased, something for which I will always be grateful. 3 I have very few memories of my father, Guido DeBenedetti, who died when I was only six. He came from a family that was somewhat more intellectual than my mother's. (My paternal grandfather, Abraham or "Nino" whom I never knew, was a high school teacher.) Of my father I know only that he adored my mother; I was told that he was intelligent, but lacking in those qualities required for success in life. He was an employee at the Post Office. He was a Mason and sympathized with socialist causes. I regret having no more details about facets of his personality for which my memory does not serve me. Such was the character of my family. The life of this family took place in a second floor apartment on a side street in Florence. The apartment was relatively large, but nevertheless rather modest and furnished in the questionable taste of an self-made businessman. The first years of my childhood were spent in this home in a gloomy setting. I only have vague memories predating the death of my father. I remember some disconnected and unimportant events: Many days during the First World War my family ate potatoes, but for me there was always good bread and plenty of good food. I remember that on some evenings my father would stay with my mother and me, entertaining me by designing and building marionettes that he carved out of wood with a penknife. The situation in my family certainly was not ideal for a growing boy. My grandfather had a heart of gold, but an irascible temper. He was prone to violent outbursts at the dinner table about the amount of salt in his soup. My parents were certainly not completely happy living in my grandparent's house (as my mother later confided to me) but they were forced to live there due to financial problems. The apartment did not have adequate air or light for the healthy physical or spiritual growth of a young child. All in all, however, the conditions in which I spent my childhood were quite a bit better than those of most of my peers in Florence. Now, familiar with life in an American suburb, airy and full of greenery, with its neat little private homes, my old apartment in Florence seems dark and unhealthy. Spending my childhood in Florence certainly has had a marked influence on my personality: my maternal language is Italian, the pure Italian which is spoken on the banks of the Arno, and my artistic sensibility cannot but be influenced by the beauty of the artistic and natural treasures of my native city. It is therefore natural that, without undue patriotism or provincialism, I retain a certain attachment to my Italian and Florentine roots. The education that my mother gave me in my early childhood years was, as far as I can remember, exemplary. She tried to develop a sense of responsibility and to instill a certain seriousness about life. On the rare occasions when she punished me, she tried to point out what I had done wrong, so that the outcome would be a desire to better myself. Besides, she never used corporal punishment; her disapproval was mostly symbolic. The most common form of punishment, and the one that had the most profound effect on me, was refusing my good-night kiss at bedtime; also, occasionally she withheld my fruit at the end of a meal. I don't remember many details of my behavior in this first phase of my life, but I have been told that my family was more concerned by my inactivity than by tantrums or bad behavior. At five years of age my favorite form of play was building with blocks. I had a box full of wooden blocks and little columns with which I built unstable architectural structures on the floor. These inspired the admiration of my indulgent relatives and when someone wondered aloud whether I might grow up to be an engineer, this comment stuck in my mind to the point that those wooden structures directed all my future studies. Throughout my childhood and adolescence, I could not imagine myself going into any other profession than engineer. I prepared to enter the polytechnical high school and only changed my mind when I was on the verge of entering the School of Engineering. A man's whole life can be determined by a single casual statement overheard during his childhood. Until I was twenty years old, because of this statement, I considered the profession of engineer as that best suited to my intellectual abilities. And so, to prepare me for polytechnical school, even before the death of my father, my mother began to teach me to read and write. Her instruction was caring; she was serious without being rigid, and I seem to have learned without much difficulty, using my pen and books as though they were toys. I had no religious instruction whatsoever, and I am grateful to my family for having spared me the painful effort of liberating myself from it. My grandfather was aware of being Jewish, but he was not 4 observant. He fasted on Yom Kippur and, although prosciutto was admissable at our table, he would not permit pork to be cooked in our kitchen. This minimal respect for tradition -- truly minimal, as is clear to those who know how rigid and numerous are the laws of the Jewish religion -- had no religious content: it was simply an affirmation of his own Jewishness that he cared to hold onto. But I remember that my parents did not respect even those last residual traditions, and during Yom Kippur they would take their meals in another room out of respect for my grandfather. I was taken to the synagogue a few times, but this experience made no great impression on me. I was surprised when I found out that our acquaintances included both Jews and non-Jews, and it took me a while to figure out what that meant. Even now, though I know what it means, I don't know the difference. * * * At about six years of age I was faced the first turning point in my life, due to the death of my father and the start of school. My father died of the Spanish influenza which was a consequence of the First World War; his disappearance overturned my mother's life so completely that it inevitably had a profound effect on my own. During my father's illness I was removed from the house for fear of contagion. When I went back home, I was told that my father was convalescing in a nursing home and that he would be gone for some time. But I knew the trick, which had already been used on a little cousin whose father had been killed a few months earlier in the war. I immediately suspected just what kind of home my father was in. I did not express my doubts to anyone, perhaps not wanting to complicate the already difficult family situation with the need to comfort me, or perhaps also because I preferred to remain in doubt rather than have my fears confirmed. But upon reflection, I can't rule out the possibility that my silence was somewhat more egotistical. I didn't know what kind of behavior was expected from a boy who had just learned that he was an orphan and, afraid of not being up to the demands of the occasion, I preferred to feign ignorance. This way at least I was left in peace, otherwise I would have become the center of attention, and thus might have created an embarrassing situation for myself. I didn't want to cry, and was afraid that this might be considered shameful. Furthermore the idea that the old ladies who came to pay their respects would also try to comfort me, was a horrifying prospect. The only way I could be left alone, it seemed to me, was by keeping silent, and so I stuck to it. A little while later, maybe a few weeks later, we went to the country, as we did every year during the hot summer months. That year my grandparents rented a flat in a little villa in Fiesole. I do not remember spending much time with my mother during that sad summer. As she did in all the following years, my mother spent most of her time shut in her room dwelling on her grief and her memories. From that time on, even though she was still young, her life as a woman was over. She kept herself busy exclusively with spiritual problems and humanitarian activities, and of course, with my education. That summer many of our friends and relatives were in Fiesole scattered in various houses and villas not far from our own. From time to time I went on walks with my grandfather and I was frequently taken to friends' houses where I could be with boys of my own age. Among these were Giuliano Treves and Gualtiero Procaccia, who were distant relatives, and my best friends. Giuliano had lost his mother to the influenza and Gualtiero's father, Giorgio, had died in the war. That summer, and in the following summers, my mother spent much of her time with Gualtiero's mother. The two widows became close because of the similarity of their situations. Together they began to practice spiritualism, hoping to make contact with their departed loved ones. One of Giuliano's aunts, who was reputed to be a medium, wrote letters which she claimed were inspired by, or dictated by, spirits of the departed. She put her hypothetical powers at the disposal of my mother and Gualtiero's mother, and they brought home bundles of paper covered with scrawled letters. Some of the pages actually bore written messages from their dead husbands presumably channeled through Gualtiero’s aunt. The messages were written in a hand that at times strangely resembled the writing of the purported authors. These were of utmost importance to my mother, who would read me a few lines. One day she brought 5 home a prayer which I was supposed to learn and to repeat every night before going to sleep, and which I did for many years. The prayer was neither religious nor morbid; it appealed to a "great omnipotent God," who, even though he may not have done any good, at least he didn't do any harm. But otherworldly concerns absorbed my mother more than it was reasonable to expect. In this dejected and debilitating period she undertook, together with Gualtiero's mother, the search for a faith which could comfort her in her grief and give her the will to live. Thus the two friends began to go to lectures and to frequent the strange haunts of mystics, until finally they believed they had found the "truth" in Theosophy. Those who wish to know about theosophy can read the vast literature on the subject. The Theosophical Society is an international organization whose general beliefs entail universal brotherhood and the search for truth. But behind this organization, whose principles are so broad, is a fantastically complicated doctrine, a doctrine in which many of its members believe blindly and observe faithfully. It is a strange mixture of Indian mysticism and Western bigotry, of high ideals and crude superstition. The doctrine of Theosophy includes all areas of science and ignorance, from reincarnation to the structure of the atom, from the hereafter to the evolution of the species, from the cosmos to the kitchen. The believer has access to a whole pseudo-scientific literature based on the beliefs of people who claim to have extraordinary supernatural powers and who provide the most extravagant explanations on any subject whatsoever. Occasionally science, with its progress, has proved a few details wrong: the theosophical authors had all too rashly approached a subject that was verifiable. In any case, the rest of my education was steeped in theosophy, and this eventually necessitated an intense re-evaluation to destroy its effects. I do not regret this aspect of my education: it gave me an intellectual flexibility, awakened in me an interest in fundamental principles, and allowed me to clearly see how easily once can get lost in the strangest of fantasies when reason is abandoned. During my childhood my grandfather took me on long walks in the enchanting environs of Florence. These walks continued for a while after I started elementary school, on Thursdays and Sundays which were vacation days. As he walked, my grandfather talked: although I do not remember the gist of what he said, I am convinced that these walks had a marked influence on my development. I think especially that this was how I acquired my solid middle class common sense. My grandfather talked about political events and tried to instill a sense of patriotism. Once, returning from Piazzale Michelangelo, he spoke of the events in Fiume, portraying Yugoslavia, which had recently been created, as a nation of ingrates towards Italy, whose sons had spilled their blood to allow Serbia to expand its borders. A few chance encounters during these walks illustrate my grandfather's unconscious reactionary ideas. Once, for example, he complained that the peasants no longer acknowledged the better dressed city residents with a "good day, sir" as they had done in the past -- as though they should feel honored that we deigned to visit the fields that were bathed in their sweat. This took place near Fiesole. Another time we met a man who was walking with his wife on the Viale dei Colli. The two were fairly well dressed, but my grandfather observed that the man was from the working class because his hands bore the signs of manual labor. My grandfather took the opportunity to comment upon how life had improved for the proletariat. While he approved of this, he also expressed doubts about pushing these positive changes too far. At this time, the proletariat was called the "fourth class" and my grandfather pointed out that in every history book, only three classes were mentioned -- the clergy, the nobility and the bourgeoisie -- and the fourth class was nothing but a dangerous invention of socialist demagoguery. In other words he completely denied the existence of the proletariat as a social force. Meanwhile, immediately after the war, Italian politics was being disrupted by workers and peasants who, returning from the front, expressed their dissatisfaction with the existing social structure and were determined to change it. This was a one of the most favorable periods for socialist propaganda because it resonated with the less affluent classes who were disillusioned by the outcome of the war and embittered by the contrast between their poverty and the wealth squandered by the profiteers. The leftist movement took a typically Italian form, it was loud and disorganized. The people had not found leaders to follow, or a party with the theoretical groundwork to guide them to success. As a 6 result they took advantage of political demonstrations to plunder stores of food and other necessities; workers occupied the factories, but couldn't organize production. The disarray and disorganization of the movement spelled its defeat, and soon the people realized that a stolen piece of bread or pair of shoes could not solve their problems, and that the movement created disorder without imposing any order of its own. And so the effect of the strikes and the "red days" was simply to scare the bourgeoisie. During our walks my grandfather explained that the "right" was better than the "left," speaking of checks and balances and rates of international currency exchange to bolster his point of view. My young mind concluded that the rightists were "good" and the leftists were "bad." One day, walking along a road I saw the slogan, "Long Live Fascism" scrawled on a wall. I asked my grandfather the meaning of Fascism and he answered that it was a political party which was against liberals. In response to my insistent questioning as to whether the party was on the right or the left, he replied that Fascism was on the extreme right. I concluded that the Fascists were the best of all the political parties, and none of my grandfather's protestations against the dangers of extremism could change my mind. This was my first contact with Fascism, an episode which demonstrates the effects of "right-wing" propaganda. I judged political events on these grounds until the day I began to think for myself. In my youth, I believed in the claims of the party propaganda -- Fascism was the defender of the nation and the law. On the other side were the "reds" who represented only violence and evil. As a consequence I was indignant about the blood shed by the socialists, and I thought that Fascist reprisals were heroic acts by pure defenders of justice. The insults to the national flag, the strikes, the late trains -- often the trainmen refused to proceed when a priest or military official was discovered on board -- all seemed unjustified. It never occurred to me that these acts might be the result of disillusionment about the war or a commitment to social justice. When Giovanni Berta was killed I was profoundly moved and angered. An industrialist's son, Berta was thrown into the Arno from the Ponte Sospeso by thugs provoked by the tricolor flag on his bike. It is hardly surprising then, that at ten years of age I greeted the news of the March on Rome with great joy. * * * When I was about six years old I started school. I was placed second grade since I already knew the basics of reading and writing, and from then on I was always a year ahead of my classmates. I started school after the start of the scholastic year and for that reason I was not admitted to public school. I was sent to a very snobbish Catholic school, which I can barely remember, run by English nuns. But at the end of the year my mother had me take the exam to be admitted to public school, where I completed the next two grades of elementary school. During this time, I had no contact with any of my classmates. I was accompanied to and from school by a family-member as befit a young "gentleman" who was not considered capable of crossing the street by himself. This privilege was reserved for the sons of working class families who were then disparaged as "street-boys." "You're like a street-boy!" my mother would say when my attire did not conform to the requisite esthetics and cleanliness appropriate to my class. After elementary school I attended middle school for four years; I remember these four years as if I warmed the school benches for just a few hours. In the second year my schoolmates clued me in on the secrets of sex, in a most disgusting way, and for several years my language was quite foul, even though I didn't always know the meaning of the words I was using. After middle school, since I was going to be an engineer, I attended the Science High School instead of taking the traditional classical curriculum. As a result my education in the humanities is not as good as it could have been, and my scientific education did not benefit either since, in any case, I would have studied science later. Everything I was taught in middle school was completely lost on me, even though my teachers were satisfied with my performance and gave me decent grades. I didn't appreciate any of the literature we studied -- The Illiad, Eneide, I Promessi Sposi -- nor do I remember anything about ancient history. I 7 learned geography later, I would say "experimentally" and so, too, with French. Those four years of school were wasted on me. However, things were different in Science High School. I was passionate about chemistry, biology, and mathematics from the beginning. History was taught by a teacher who had a very subtle and quick mind, who tried to infuse into our immature brains the significance of events and the character of various historical periods. Professor Porzio was an old populist who loved to spice up the historical narrative with interesting stories. In this manner, he awakened our interest and taught us, without being obvious, to sympathize with the oppressed against the oppressors, with the exploited against the tyrants. According to the curriculum in those days, history professors were also assigned to teach history of philosophy. But the good man was a historian, and he had no interest in philosophy. From the first day, he told us sarcastically that this discipline searched for first principles and final purposes, but that no two philosophers agreed with each other -- his own position was between agnosticism and skepticism -- and he restricted his course to the exposition of various systems, from the ancient Greeks to Bergson, without taking any of them too seriously and without missing any opportunity for sarcasm. This caldron of opinions created quite a bit of confusion in my young mind, but I fondly remember my grey-bearded professor of history of philosophy, convinced that his lessons had a considerable influence on my later development. As to literature I always did rather well, without ever having been too deeply moved by it. At that time the Italian curriculum was based on the reforms of Gentile. Gentile was an idealistic philosopher who placed himself at the service of the Fascists and oriented Italian schools along the lines of his philosophical principles. From a certain perspective, Gentile's reforms were not terribly bad. The purpose of learning was to shape the student's personality, rather than to grasp practical ideas; humanism was emphasized, as well as the study of literature and Latin. Boys and girls at the age of ten or twelve wrote essays on esthetics, and were invited to express their opinions on a given piece of poetry or prose. I succeeded reasonably well with these tasks, even if I did not resonate under the influence of certain literary works. From my perspective, the shortcoming of Gentiles' reforms was to minimize the importance of scientific culture. Like any idealistic philosopher, Gentile must have considered science to be a dry subject -- a collection of disconnected thoughts incapable of molding a mind. In my opinion, however, science can give not only intellectual satisfaction, but can also inspire a young mind, more so even, than can be gleaned from reading a piece of poetry. No work of Italian or Latin literature has ever inspired me as much as when I learned the laws of evolution, or when, in natural science class, I became aware of the presence of the simple and pure beauty hidden in nature. And the harmony of the laws of nature is for me far superior to any strains of Dante. From the advent of Fascism and through the first few years of its ascendance, the administration of Italian schools was sound. The professors' integrity was truly extraordinary, especially considering their meager earnings. As a general rule, they were no longer young and they had considerable experience; often they were also very knowledgeable and had a real interest in their subject matter. Schools were completely divorced from religion until the time that the Fascists reconciled with the church. At that time, Catholic religious instruction was introduced into the schools for one hour a week, from which students could be excused at the request of their parents. On the bare walls of the schoolrooms, there had always been a photograph of the king; after a while a crucifix came to keep him company, and later still, a photo of Mussolini made its appearance, with eyes bulging out of their sockets. Upon leaving high school, so much culture was stuffed into the poor head of an 18-year old boy that he could not have assimilated, or at least marginally learned, anything more without resorting to physical violence. Unfortunately, it was a "scholastic" education, which aimed at teaching what had been written in books, and not actual life in the real world. Well-turned phrases, resonant words, and lots of adjectives were the marks of a classical education. The purpose of the system was to teach us to write well about what had already been written by others, instead of to express our own thoughts about the world around us, or our own observations and reactions to the world. The result was that we appeared to 8 be educated to those who, in turn, had been educated in the same manner. Rhetoric and pompousness, these sorry Italian traits infected us from our first years on the school benches. The only religion that I was taught in school, perhaps the only religious education that I ever had, was the religion of the Greeks and Romans. This is the religious education which most educated Italians receive -- to the extent that, it could be said that Italy is more pagan than it is Catholic. * * * Relations with my classmates were simple and cordial. There was some profanity and lots of cheap humor, but beneath it all, much solidarity and friendship. I wonder what happened to my high school classmates. How many of them were sent away, far from their homes to fight and perhaps to die? In school the subject of politics surfaced relatively infrequently, but Fascism's hand became steadily heavier, and already in the early years when I was in school, it was possible to foresee a time when the schools would be completely subservient to the Fascist regime. In my last year of high school all the students in my class, with only one or two exceptions, were members of Fascist organizations. Our principal actively engaged in propaganda, but none of the professors ever discussed politics in their classes, and the education which was imparted to us was not yet twisted by a political agenda. In fact, most of the teachers were suspected of having anti-fascist views. The hours I spent on the high school benches were mostly quite pleasant. Though I did not study much at home, I was always able to make decent grades. I spent several years without many worries in this regard. I was never a timid student; on the contrary I often went to the opposite extreme of becoming impertinent. If I lacked energy in my earlier years, I acquired a goodly dose of it later on. At school I could not keep still, and my conduct was not at all disciplined. This unruliness, though, did not displease either my friends or my teachers, who reproached me good-naturedly, and occasionally made me leave the room without thinking any less of me. During my last years before college, I was less isolated than I had been, and I spent much time with my schoolmates and other boys of my age. My friends in high school were not very remarkable and none of them, as far as I know, made a name for themselves in the years that followed. In general they came from the petite bourgeoisie of Florence and were perhaps of a slightly poorer class, the recently formed Science High School being less "refined" than the Classical High School. Therefore, my friends at the time represented a cross-section of Florence, with no snooty pretensions or foreign contacts. My high school friends had all the virtues and defects of our common Florentine mentality: they were brilliant, vivacious and skeptical. We prized a witty saying more than a good deed: there was a real manic quality to our wittiness, and everyone constantly teased each other, not out of mean-spiritedness, but for the sheer pleasure of sharpening one's wits in quick verbal repartees of insults and retorts. None of my friends had any serious or profound ideas or aspirations. Fanaticism of any kind, including any political or religious fervor, was unknown in our class. Only one of my schoolmates, having been educated by Jesuits, truly believed in Catholicism, and all the others saw him as a strange specimen of some nearly extinct species. When we were not talking about our studies or involved in pointless teasing, our main topic of conversation was sports, or rather, il tifo. This word describes the attitude of those who read the "Sports Gazette," and made a noisy fuss over this or that particular team, or this or that particular athlete, without ever going onto the playing field themselves. This fictional enthusiasm was probably the outcome of the dearth of the kind of ideals that might inspire real passion. Mainly our enthusiasm revolved around the "Fiorentinas," the local soccer team; when Italian teams or athletes competed internationally, the tifo took on a nationalistic tinge. All the so-called patriotism shown by Italians during the Fascist wars was never substantially different from rooting for their sports teams. The average Italian never made an in-depth study of what was best for our country. He wanted victory for the Italian army, just as he yearned for a win for his soccer team. 9 Our conversations were often colored by extreme profanity, which delighted most of the class, almost as though it was proof of one's virility. In our scholarly life, lack of discipline was valued over good behavior, and whoever received a grade of ten for good behavior could not expect any respect from his peers. The most prized intellectual gifts were wit and the ability to get ahead without too much effort. Persistence and concentrated effort were scorned. The character of an Italian class is profoundly different from that of an English or American class. In Italy the class is bound by ties of solidarity against the school authorities. A student does not perceive himself as an individual who wants to learn; he is not interested in loyal collaboration with his teachers. Rather he sees himself as part of a group whose interests are opposed to his professors. Thus, deceiving them by copying, or by allowing one's work to be copied, or by suggesting answers to a classmate who is being interrogated, is considered not just legitimate, but even commendable. I frequently passed answers to my neighbors, and I devised a particularly ingenious method for signaling answers to students who were being questioned. I remember once, in my first year of high school, I took a written chemistry exam with an extremely strict professor -- one who was considered impossible to cheat. I wrote a long list of formulas on my thigh, which was normally covered by my short pants, and it so happened that the test covered exactly the formulas which I had written down. Naturally I received an outstanding grade. All my friends considered this scheme to be quite an achievement, rather than the act of disloyalty that it really was. Such a scholastic ethic shows an inability to impose discipline upon oneself and a disregard for the importance of individual responsibility. These attitudes do not completely disappear as the years pass and the little scholars become adult citizens; and one can't deny that this state of affairs contributed to creating the conditions which allowed the victory of Fascism. Unfortunately, with or without Fascism, the lack of a civic sense has always been one of the dominant weaknesses of the Italian people, probably originating in centuries of foreign occupation, during which Italians came to regard government as the enemy. This lack of civic pride is cultivated in the schools where the child learns to cheat his teacher so that later he will be able to cheat the tax collector. The character of my high school class, which I have tried to reconstruct in my mind, corresponded to that of the general population of Florence. Furthermore while there are differences between various parts of Italy, the "scholastic ethic" which I describe above, is the same throughout the country. The Florentines are a people with an old civilization and they have seen much water flow under their Ponte Vecchio. Many governments have come and gone; many illusions vanished. So they are fundamentally skeptics, but they still have a quick wit and an active intelligence. The extraordinary natural and artistic beauty of their city has nurtured their good taste; but there is but one small step between refinement and decadence. * * * And now let's go back home to see what happened in my family. During the entire time that I was in school, my life at home was influenced by my mother's theories on theosophy. In turn, I was introduced to the theosophical groups, instructed in its doctrine, and initiated into its various mysteries. In the early years, theosophical gatherings were held in the home of an elderly woman who insisted on being addressed as "Countess" even though she was no such thing. She loved to strut through her rooms posing as a patron of the arts. The leader of the Florentine theosophists was a French professor, Emile Marcault, who was employed in the philosophy department of the University of Pisa. I remember him as an intelligent, articulate man, certainly a person of much greater breadth than the theosophists whom I subsequently met. Later, when the Fascists expelled foreign professors from Italian universities, Mercault returned to France where he was director of the Theosophical Society of France until the German invasion. I was introduced to the theosophists of Milan when my mother took me to the city to visit my aunt. There, I was invited to attend a meeting of a recently formed para-theosophical society called "The 10 Ideal Knight." At the meeting, members were dressed in strangely embroidered blue and white tunics and they referred to each other as Pages, Squires and Knights. They entered the room following a predetermined ceremony and sat in a circle while executing complicated rituals: they appeared to be reenacting the knights of King Arthur sans peur et sans reproche. It was a painful spectacle of cheap mysticism, based on the most absurd medieval traditions. But my childish imagination was swept up in this exercise of nobility and gallantry, and when a knight placed his hand on my head as I kneeled before him, and proclaimed me a Page of The Ideal Knight, I was profoundly moved. This ceremony, this vestige of feudalism, stirred up such enthusiasm in me, that I returned to Florence eager to spread the word of this ridiculous organization. My enthusiasm would probably have spent itself without any unpleasant consequences if, one awful day, my mother had not received a visit from one of the most narrow-minded men I have ever met. This man insisted on being called Professor Dammeno although he had never completed his coursework in mathematics at the University of Pisa. He was a recent convert to Theosophy and a zealous proponent. In his small way, he was ambitious, and he was tickled at the thought of becoming president of a group of boys. At twenty-four Dammeno was still young, small, dark, with a large red nose and low forehead. To compensate for his small stature, he wore heels that were two centimeters higher than those worn by other western males; to compensate for his intellectual insignificance, he abused the title of professor. His pants were always hitched up above the ankle and his jackets always too tight. His smile, which reached from ear to ear, was affected and unspontaneous. His quick and lively eyes never had a moment's rest, and his whole being was in a state of constant agitation, always bustling with matters of no importance. Professor Dammeno knew how to do anything and everything better than any other mortal, but he was too modest to brag about it. In his goodness, though, he was generous enough to demonstrate to the inexpert common public the correct way to approach various problems. Dammeno taught us boys how to sleep in the correct position, how to breathe, how to walk and so on. He taught my mother how to wrap her packages, how to knock on the door, how to use a penknife, and many other equally precious things. This individual was for many years my mother's and Gualtiero's mother's best friend, and our education was in part entrusted to his capable hands. Naturally Dammeno was enthusiastic about the whole idea of The Ideal Knight, and in no time the other child theosophists and I were garbed in white tunics. We made the rounds of all the antique stores in the city--and there is no scarcity of them in Florence--to find old lamps, old swords, old goblets and other articles needed for the ceremonies. Having obtained all the necessary accessories, we held our first meeting under the presidency of Dammeno who, with his large nose and red face emerging from his blue tunic, looked more like a strange mother hen than a proud knight of King Arthur. Under Dammeno's leadership the Ideal Knight flourished and prospered for several years. Under the irresistible impetus of his profoundly original personality he created new ceremonies, collected dues, produced festivals for charity, organized pitiful performances, and cared for poor children and stray animals, all in same spirit. Meanwhile Dammeno gave us moral advice and taught us the mysteries of theosophy with an outlook that would be considered narrow-minded by the most bigoted country curate. I remember one time, when I was about thirteen, he proposed the formation of an inner group from among his favorite students, to secretly initiate us into some mysterious rites. I refused to join a group whose purpose I didn't know. This was perhaps my first act of rebellion, and at the same time my first affirmation of democratic principles. My mother considered me a rebel, but Dammeno had to give up one of the victims for his little group and was forced to carry on his important activities without my participation. This affirmation of independence was, however, my only one for several years. All the while, my mother had been attending meetings and lectures. She translated literature from French and English into Italian (she had begun learning English expressly for this purpose); she typed programs, articles and invitations (she had also learned to touch-type for the same reason); she mailed books, argued, studied sacred texts, proselytized and was herself proselytized. For several years all the enthusiasm of which she was capable, and it was considerable, revolved around theosophy or related activities. 11 Meanwhile, I was growing. One summer vacation I developed pleurisy which, as I learned later, was thought to be tuberculosis. Against the advice of the doctors and of all our friends and relations, my mother suddenly had me become a vegetarian (as a good theosophist, she was, and is still, a vegetarian) and had me take cold showers in winter. (This was Dammeno's idea.) In spite of all this, I did not develop tuberculosis since I was not predisposed to it, and now I am in excellent health. But during my entire adolescence my height and weight were below average. My physical development was always slow and at school I was always the smallest in my class -- this was partly because I was a year younger than my classmates. I don't think, however, that my slow development and relative weakness at the time were in any way related to the practice of vegetarianism or taking cold showers. In any case, these events have not left a trace on my physical condition, and despite my slow development I am endowed with a body that I have no reason to criticize, although I am neither an athlete nor an Adonis. My family life was very sad while I was in high school. My grandfather suffered from arterial sclerosis and his condition deteriorated steadily. Little by little he lost his hearing, which made him suspicious of everyone and more irascible than ever; unfortunately the friendly talks we once shared were now a thing of the past. Later he developed cataracts which made him almost blind. He was successfully operated upon, but his tired body did not allow him to benefit from the operation, and he carried on for several years with very limited vision. Even worse, he had a stroke which left him partially paralyzed and mentally impaired. He died when I was in my third year of high school, followed to his grave by my grandmother, who survived him by only a few weeks. But even when my grandparents were in relatively good health, our home life was far from serene. When my Milanese uncle, Vittorio Levi, was in financial straits, my Aunt Luisa came to live with us. My aunt's personality did not contribute to family harmony, and thus, between my mother's obsession with theosophy, and my grandfather's bad temper, life at home was a living hell. I closed myself off, almost pretending not to see the tragedy within my family. I went to school and came home only to study. My mother bore the brunt of the situation, caring for her parents in exemplary fashion during their protracted and painful illnesses, dedicating all of her time and energy to them. As if this weren't enough, she carried on continuous discussions, which sometimes degenerated into arguments, with my aunt. The two sisters' personalities were diametrically opposed to each other. My mother was always dedicated to spiritual matters, and my aunt, who loved the luxuries and joys of the world, found it impossible to adapt to her financial difficulties. In the afternoons I would often visit my best friend Gualtiero, not without giving his family some trouble given that, after the inactivity of my early childhood, I had become quite a noisy child. On Sundays, I often spent time with Giuliano who was a few years younger than I, but intellectually rather precocious. When the weather was good we would take drives in the Florentine countryside with his family. Those were the grand years of the automobile when we drove down dusty roads in an open convertible wearing sport's caps and driving goggles, removing the muffler to better impress the peasants and chickens, who scurried off in fear. Nevertheless, these drives around Tuscany were pleasant. We went to Siena, Viareggio, Lucca, Pisa, Pistoia, Chianti, Casentino, Mugello to admire the natural and artistic treasures. The green hills, blanketed by lovingly tended fields imbued with the sweat of generations; the villages in every valley with their little churches overlooking some piazza or noble statue; the castles on every hilltop with Guelph blackbirds or Ghibellines--these have all become a part of me, in whatever part of Italy or of the world that I happen to be. I long for this countryside, a countryside filled with the vestiges of an old and uninterrupted civilization. Gualtiero and Giuliano's families were large, extended families of Jewish businessmen. Having held on to their businesses during the war, their financial situations were better than my grandfather's: they were the nouveau riches, or, in the post-war slang, pescecani -- sharks or profiteers. Gualtiero's relatives were good people, unabashedly proud of their money, loud, unsophisticated and good at heart. Giuliano's relatives, who branched out endlessly in every direction, often put on a show of being refined, and despite the newness of their wealth, some did have a quiet dignity about them. 12 * * * Such was the ambience of my childhood and adolescence, in which I chose my friends and toys. All these people, or, as my mother would sometimes call them, this tribe, were vaguely related to my family. Of actual relatives other than my mother's sister, mentioned above, I had only an uncle, my father's brother Emilio DeBenedetti, who was a high school teacher in La Spezia, and his wife Fernanda and their two daughters Fiorella and Ninetta who were a little older than I. Almost every year, during the summer vacation I went to La Spezia for a few weeks to swim in the blue Mediterranean with my uncle and cousins. I was a guest in their house, but every morning we took the ferry across the gulf to the pure water beyond the dam, at San Terenzio, Lerici, or Portovenere. It was a magnificent excursion, in the company of other children, to be repeated on the return trip towards the setting sun. I learned to swim distances from my uncle, to love the rocks and deep water and to disapprove of the sedentary life of the beach. My frequent contact with my uncle during these vacations influenced me rather more than I realized at the time -- not that I felt either the desire or the need for guidance, and much less for some fatherly authority figure. As to guidance, I had plenty from my mother. But my uncle, though he lived in the more provincial city of La Spezia, had perhaps the most far-reaching perspective of any person that I had yet encountered. He was a classicist, a devoted humanist, a free thinker, a patriotic Italian, and a liberal in the best sense of the word. He had a broad historical perspective and followed world events, upon which he made precise and sensible judgments. A monarchist by tradition, he felt highly honored one time when the king, on a visit to La Spezia, shook his hand. Although he was actively interested in current affairs, his integrity prevented him from participating in politics or taking a position in favor of any politically endorsed ideology. He was disappointed by their shortcomings, imperfections and corruption. Even before Fascism, so as not to compromise with the political parties, he refused to vote in any election. During Fascism his distrust of political parties transformed itself into an increasingly bitter disdain for the only remaining party. He never joined the party and never hid his sentiments, despite the benefits that would have accrued to his career. The most humiliating day of his life came when, at one of the obligatory elections in favor of the regime, he could not refuse to participate. But at home, in the safety of his family, he retold with pride his modest feat of heroism: "Although I put the yes card in the ballot box, which could be seen from the outside, in the privacy of the booth, I crossed out the yes and wrote NO!" * * * Except for some distant echoes, political events never affected me. At the time of the March on Rome I was a boy of about ten and I remember greeting the event with joy. I had no information about the "reds" except stories of their murderous violence and I had no knowledge of their social program. In the years that followed however, I began taking note that the Fascists did not refrain from violence either. Only steps from my house, the offices of the Nuovo Giornale, a newspaper guilty of not being sufficiently enthusiastic about Fascism, were broken into, looted and burned. The police naturally did not intervene. A few years later, in October of 1925, a Fascist leader, a certain Luporini, went to the house of a socialist worker in my neighborhood to teach him the significance of the new regime with blows from a club. He was greeted by a well-deserved rifle shot. The next day, the Fascists arrived, set fire to the house and decided to vindicate their "hero." The vendetta was ferocious and many Florentine intellectuals were victimized during three days of terror. A lawyer was murdered in his own bed in the presence of his wife. In those days people were killed simply for being Masons. But these facts, though they instilled some doubts, were not enough to destroy my sympathy for Fascism. During one of my last years in high school, under pressure from the school administration, I joined the party's youth group, the "Vanguard." I was, I think, the next-to-the-last student in my class to succumb to this pressure, and that was not so much to my credit as it was the influence of my grandfather 13 and professor/uncle, who worked valiantly to keep me from taking this step. The last student to join was a Jesuit, who decided to don the black shirt only when the Fascists and the church signed the Concordat. So I put on my uniform on Sunday mornings and went down into the street to march in the parades with my friends. Our favorite pastime during the long delays was telling anti-fascist jokes. "Why did they put a Fascist in front of a locomotive?" "To better eat the road." (Eating the road was used to describe a roadhog, but politically, "eating" was used as a synonym for graft.) Or: "A perfect man must have three attributes: he must be honest, intelligent and Fascist. Unfortunately, perfection is not of this world and so he who is honest and Fascist cannot be intelligent, and he who is honest and intelligent cannot be Fascist." The long delays and the parades were a nuisance. So much so that immediately after roll call, would-be paraders fled the area or found any means to steal away. Often during the parades, the last ones in line would turn unobserved down a side street and return peacefully home. And in the years that followed, it seems that Mussolini was unable to substantially change this Italian attitude toward military or paramilitary activities. * * * This is the story of my childhood and adolescence and of the places that I frequented. 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Th e r ew a sp l en tyt oex c i t em yy oung m in d .S t i l lq u i t ey o u n g ,I w a sab o u tt ol e av eo nas c i en t i f i c ex p ed i t io ntoad i s t an tcoun t ry .L e av ingV en i c e ,l an do fc iv i l i z a t io n ,fo ru n t am edA f r i c a ,If e l tab i tl ik ea m i s s io n a ry . Iw a sag a in s tc o lon i a l i sman dth o u g h tth a tth eF a s c i s ts w e r et e r r ib l eadm in i s t r a to r sfo rth e i r b l acksu b j e c t sfo rw homIf e l tg r e a tcom p a s s io n .Iw a sg l adtoh av et h eo p p o r tu n i tytos tu d yth es i tu a t io n f i r s th an d . O nb o a rd ,w ein s t a l l edsom ein s t rum en tsan dimm ed i a t e lys t a r t e dg a th e r i n gd a t a .Af ewd ay sl a t e r w el e f tV en i c eh e ad edfo rT r i e s t e.T h e r eIm e tE u g en i oC u r i e lo n c eag a i n . Iw a lk edt h ro u g hth ec i tyw i th h iman db e fo r ew el e f t , h ec am eonbo a rdtos ayg o o db y ean dtos e eth ein s t r um en t s . Th enth esh ips t oppedfo rtw oo rt h r e ed ay sa taf a c t o ryp i e ri nS p a l a totolo adc em en t .W ev i s i t e d th ec i ty ,w h i chi slo c a t edo nanen ch an t in gs t r ipo fth eD a lm a t i anco a s t .W es awsom er e l i c so fan c i e n t I t a l i anco lo n i z a t ion :a V en e t i anc a s t l ebyth ed o ck s,a sw e l la sanimm en s ep a l a c ew i ths u p e rbco lum n s b u i l tb yth eR om anem p e ro rD io c l e t i a n .Am o ngth e s ew e r en e s t e dn um e ro u ssm a l lh o u s e so fm o r er e c ent v in t ag e.I t a l i anu l t r a n a t io n a l i s t sc l a im edth a tth e s eru in sg av eI t a lyth er ig h tt oan n exth i sp a r to ft h e co a s t ,b u tth ep eop l ew e r ep r edom in an t lyS l av i c .A n da l th o u g hI t a l i anw a ssp o k e ninsom eo fth es to r e s , ju s to u t s id eo ftow n ,th e r ew a snol ong e ran yt r a c eo fI t a ly .O nth ero adf romth esh iptoth ec i tyw em e t p e a s a n t sw e a r ingth et r ad i t i on a lD a lm a t i a nr edb e r e tan dp a s s edt h ro u g hav e ryp o o ran dd i r tyv i l l ag e . F romS p a l a to w ec ro s s edth eM ed i t e r r an e an ,r e a c h in gP o r tS a idaf ewd ay sl a t e r .Th ew e a th e r w a sm ag n i f i c e n t ,andt h es e aw a sv e ryc a lm .O nth esh ipw eco n t in u edt ak in gm e a su r em en t s ,t ak in gtu rn s soth a tw ecou ldco l l e c td a t ath roug hou tth en ig h t . W el and edfo raf ewhou r sinP o r tS a id.T h i sw a sm yf i r s tco n t a c tw i t hA f r i c a .N a tu r a l ly ,w e d r an kTu rk i s hco f f e e ,boug h tc ig a r e t t e san ds e n tp o s t c a rd s .Ien t e r edas t o r et ob u yc ig a r e t t e sa n ds t am p s , an dIp a id w h a tw a sa sk ed .S om eo fm yt r av e l in gcom p an io n sw h ow e r ef am i l i a rw i th e a s t e rnc u s t om s , l au g h eda tm yn a iv e t é . On eo fth em ,ado c to r ,w hoa l so w an t edtob u yc ig a r e t t e s ,u s edav e ryd i f f e r en tm e th o d .H es a t w i thu sa tac a f e 'andw a i t e dfo rs om eon etoap p ro a chh imw i thc ig a r e t t e st os e l l .S o o nay o u n gA r abm an ap p e a r ed ,d r e s s edinth elo c a ltun i c ;h i sh an d som ef a c ew a st an n ed ,h i ssk in co lo rw a sn o td a rkan dh e h adn o b l ef e a tu r e s .H ea sk eda m u chh ig h e rp r i c efo rh i sc ig a r e t t e st h anIh adp a id .B e f o r eIco u ldg lo a t o v e rm yd e a l ,th edo c to ro f f e r edabou tt ent im e sl e s s .Th eA r abd idn o tl e av e :h eap p ro a ch edt h ed o c to r 41 an db eg anb a r t e r ingbycu t t ingh i so r ig in a lp r i c einh a lf .Th ed o c to rd idn o tf l i n ch ,an di n s i s t edo nh i s o f f e r ,t r e a t in gth eA r abw i t hw h a ts e em edto m etob ein h um anco n t em p t .Th ed o c to r ' sb eh av io rr ep e l l e d m e ,an dm ysym p a thi e swe r ew i t hth eA r ab .Th ed o c t o rp r e t en d edt oig n o r eh im ,t r e a t in gh iml ik eas t r ay d o g ,w h i l eh econ t inu edtot a lktou s .Th eA r abs t ay edn e a rh im .E v e ryo n c eina w h i l eh el ow e r edh i s p r i c eu n t i la f t e rab ou th a l fanhou r ,th edo c to rh adth ec ig a r e t t e sa tth ep r i c eh eh a din i t i a l lyo f f e r ed .Th i s , Il e a rn edl a t e r ,w a sth eno rm a lw ayto m ak eap u r ch a s einth eE a s t . Ata b o u tm idn ig h tw ebo a rd e dth esh ipa n db eg a ns a i l in gth ro u g hth eS u e zC an a l .Isp en tth een t i r e t im eo nth eb r idg e ,w a t ch i n gth ed e s e r t ,th ec an a l ,an dth eo th e rsh ip s .Th e r e ,fo rt h ef i r s tt im e ,Is awth e n ewG e rm anf l agwi thasw a s t ik aonth es t e r no fash ipth a tw a st r av e l i n ginth eo p p o s i t ed i r e c t io n .I m u s t adm i tth a ti td i s tu rb edm ei naw ayIh adn o tex p e c t ed .If e l tasu rg eo fa n g e ro rev enh a tr e d . W ea l s op a s s edaR u s s i ano i lt ank e r ,t h el e t t e r sCCCPs tan d i n gfo rUSSRan dar edf l agb e a r in gth e h amm e ran ds i ck l ef ly ingonth es t e rn .Ilo o k eda ti tw i thb e n ev o l en tin t e r e s t,r a th e rth a nw i t hap p ro v a l . F o rm e ,ev e ry th ingabou tR u s s i aw a sw r ap p edin m y s t e ry .I w a t ch edth esh i pc a r e fu l ly ,a si fi tco u ld ex p l a inth i n g sId idn ' tk now ,a si fi tw e r ear a r em e s s a g ef romanu n k n ow nw o r ld ,f romanu n ch a r t edl an d . Ik n ewn o th ingabou tth ec oun t ry ,bu tIk n ewth a tm an yp eo p l eh adb r av e lych a l l en g edth ep e r s e cu t io no f F a s c i s tg o v e rnm en t sund e rth a tf l ag .Ir a i s edm yh a n dan dw av edaf r i en d lyg r e e t i n gtoth eS o v i e ts a i lo r s . W et r av e l edaf ew m o r ed ay sa c r o s sth eR edS e a .I tw a sh o t ,an dw ep u to nco lo n i a lh e lm e t s , co n t in u in gtot ak em e a su r em en t sun t i lw ew e r efo r c edtos to pb e c au s eo fth eh e a tan dh um id i ty . Wea r r iv eda tM a s s aw a byn ig h t .Th ep i lo tb o a tf romth ep o r tap p ro a c h edo u rsh ip ,l e av in ga p h o sp h o r e s c en tt r a i lini t sw ak e .Ip e e r edt h ro u g ht h ed a rk n e s sinafu t i l ea t t em p ttos e eth eB l a c k C o n t in en t .O n lyaf ewhu nd r ed m e t e r saw ay w a sA f r i c a ,B la ck A f r i c a ,w i thi t sw i lda n dp r im i t iv e f a s c in a t i o n .Iw a sex c i t ed ,a ndIbu rn edw i thim p a t i en c etos e tfo o ti nA f r i c a . Fi n a l ly ,th esh ipw a sdo ck ed .A sth o u g htof u r th e rd e l ayo u rl an d i n g ,af a tc o lo n i a lo f f i c i a lb o a rd e d th esh ipto w e l com eu s .W e a r inga w h i t eu n i fo rmd e ck edo u tinb r a i d s ,h ein fo rm edu sth a tac a ran da t ru ck w e r ew a i t ingtob r in gu sandou rin s t rum en t st oA sm a r a .W i th th ef o rm a l i t i e so v e r, w el an d ed . A lo n gth esh o r eth e r ew a sab r i ckco lon i a ls t ru c tu r e ,s om ep u b l i cb u i l d in g s ,som eb an k s . Th ef i r s tth ingIno t i c ed w e r eth elon g sh o r em en .O h ,h owd i f f e r en tth ey w e r ef romth eb e r ib b o n ed g ov e rnm en to f f i c i a l !Th ey w e r eth in ,an dd r e s s edind i r tyr ag s .Th eysq u a t t e do nt h er a i l ro adt r a ck s , p e r ch edo nth e i rto e s ,ands i t t i ngonth e i rh e e l s .Th i sp o s i t io ns e em edu n com fo r t ab l ean du n s t a b l eto m e . B u tth elo c a llong sho r em enw e r ec om fo r t ab l e . Iov e r s awth eun lo ad i ngo fth ec r a t e s ,u rg in gth ep o r t e r stob ec a r e fu l ,b u tt h eyd idn o tu n d e r s t an d m e .Th enw ew en ttoaho t e l tog e tsom es l e ep .A l ln ig h tal a rg ef antu rn edinth em id d l eo fm yro omov e r m yb ed .M a s s aw ai son eo fth eho t t e s tp l a c e so ne a r th . Th en ex tm o rn ing w el e f tfo rA sm a r a .Th ero adf i r s tc ro s s eda na r idd e s e r t .Th en w eb eg ant o c l im btow a r d sap l a t e au .T he r ew a sl i t t l ev eg e t a t io n :af ewth in ,w i ldo l iv et r e e sr a i s edth e i rco n t o r t e d b r an c h e stow a rd sth esk y .S low ly ,a sw ec l im b ed ,i tb e c am eco o l e r ,an dth es c en e ryb e c am em o r e h o sp i t ab l e .E v e ry th ingloo k eds t r ang e :c lo th in g ,f a c e s ,p l a n t s ,ro ck san dm o u n t a i n s .P a ck so fm o n k ey s s c am p e r edth ro ug hth eh i l l s . Wep a s s edD og a l i ,ap l a c eth a th adb e en m ad ef am o u sb yo n eo fth em an yu n fo r tu n a t ein c id e n t so f th eI t a l i anc o lon i a lc am p a i g n .A m onum en th adb e ene r e c t edtocomm em o r a t eth eso ld i e r sw h oh add i e d toco n q u e rth i scou n t ryf romw h i chI t a lyh adn ev e rd e r iv edan yg a in .T h ein d ig en o u sv i l lag e sc o n s i s t edo f h u t s ,c a l l edtu cu l .E v e ry on ew a sex t r em e lyp o o r . I nA sm a r aw een t e r e dth ehou s eth a th adb e enp l a c eda to u rd i sp o s a l .O u rs e rv an tw a sw a i t in g ,a b o yo fab o u t15n am edS o l om on .W eb eg antoo p enth ec r a t e sa n dtot e s tth ein s t r um en t s .W ew en ttos e e th eco n s t ru c t iono fth ehu tw h e r ew ew e r etoco n d u c to u rex p e r im en t s .T h eh u tw a stob eb u i l to na n am b a( h i l l )af ewk i lom e t e r sf romth ec i t y ,in s id eaf o r t .Th ecom p l e t io no fth el i t t l ew o o d en s t ru c tu r e w o u ldt ak eaf ewm o r ed ay s . O no n eo fth ef i r s td a y s ,w h enw ew e r es t i l lw o r k in go nth eh o u s e ,ag ro u po flo c a lch i ld r enc am et o s in gino u rh ono r . W ec am etoth ed o o r s t e ptoadm i r eth esp e c t a c l e ,w h i ch w een jo y ed . Th en w e d i s t r ib u t edb a c k sh e e s h . Th ep opu l a t io ninth eco lonyo fE r i t r e ai sq u i t ev a r i ed .O nth ep l a t e auth e r ea r eT ig r e an s ,ap eo p l e 42 s im i l a rtotho s einno r th e r nA by s s in i a :w i thd a rksk in ,b u tn o tN eg ro id ,t h e i rf e a tu r e sm o r es im i l a rt o A r ab s . Th em en w o r et ig h tl i t t l ew h i t ep an t s ,o v e rw h i chth ey w o r ea w h i t es h i r t .O v e rth i sth ey w o r ea w h i t es c a r f ,c a l l edas c iamm a ,w h i chw a sw r ap p edl ik eaR om anto g a .A l lth ec l o th i n gi sco t to n ,an dn o t u g lyw h enc l e a n .H ow ev e r ,i tlook edq u i t ep o o rw h encom p a r edt oth em o r eso l em nc lo th in go fth eo th e r p eo p l e .Th es c iamm a ,fo rex am p l e ,d idn o tr e a chd ow ntoth ef e e t ,b u tw en to n lytoth ew a i s t .Th ef e e t w e r eg en e r a l lyb a r e ,t h eh e ads h av edan du n co v e r ed .S h o e san dh a t in d i c a t edaso c i a lan de c o n om i c p o si t io nq u i t eabov eth eav e r ag e . Th ew om en w o r el o ngtun i c so fw h i t eco t t o n .Th eg i r l sb r a id edth e i rh a i ran dt i edth eb r a id s a ro u n dth e i rh e ad sl ik eac r ow n .M a r r i edw om enh adacom p l i c a t edh a i rd o :t h e i rh a i rw a sb r a id edc lo s eto th esk ini nl i t t l ep a r a l l e lb r a id sth a tw en tf romth efo r eh e adtoth en a p eo fth en e ck-a tth en ap eo ft h e n e ckth eh a i rw a sl e f tf r e eandfo rm edav o lum in o u sr ip p l ed m an e .Th eh a i rd ow a sn o tu g ly ,b u ti tw a s so ak eding r e a s e ,w h i chd idno tm ak ei tp a r t i cu l a r lya t t r a c t iv ean dsm e l l edb ad . Th ech i ld r e nw e r ec a r r i edont h e i rm o th e r s 'b a ck sinak in do fs a ck w i thh o l e sfo rth e i ra rm s ,l eg s an dh e ad s ,a sth oug hth eyw e r einas add l e .O f t e ny o u n gg i r l sc a r r i edth e i ry o u n g e rb ro t h e r sa n ds i s t e r si n th i sw ay . E v e ry on ew a sth in-m ay b ei tw a sth e i rn a tu r a lp h y s iq u e ,m ay b ei tw a sth ec l im a t e ,b u t c e r t a i n lyt h e r ew a sl i t t l etoe a t .O c c a s io n a l lyalo c a lo f f i c i a lw a sf a t .Th ei n d ig en o u sl e ad e r sw o r eab l a ck c ap em ad eo u to fl ig h ts i lk ,w i thg o ldands i lv e rem b ro id e ry .Th eys e em edtob ec e r em o n i a lc ap e s ,s i n c eI n ev e rs awth emw o rnont h es t r e e t s . I ti ss t r ang ehowe a s i l yon ec anb ed e c e iv edab o u tth eim p o r t an c eo fv a r io u sep i so d e so fo n e ' sl i f e ! B e fo r ew r i t ingth e s em em o i r s ,Ithoug h tth a tm yt r av e l sw e r eth em o s tin t e r e s t in gp a r to fm yl i f e .N owI r e a l i z et h a tIp r e f e rw r i t ingabou td e t a i l sth a tIth o u g h tw e r ein s ig n i f i c an ta tth et im e . Th i ssu rp r i s e sm e .AmIno tab l etoap p r e c i a t ew h a tIs e e ?Id o n ' tth in kth a ti sth ep ro b l em .B u tt h e to u r i s t ' so rt r av e l e r ' sim p r e s s i on sa r en e c e s s a r i lysu p e r f i c i a lan du n in t e r e s t in g .Tok n owaco u n t ry ,to ap p r e c i a t ei t ,tolov ei to rtoh a t ei t ,o n em u s tl iv ea n dw o rkth e r e ,s id eb ys id ew i thth elo c a lp eo p l e , sh a r in gl i t t l eev e ry d ayp rob l em s .O n em u s ta l l owo n e s e l ftob ep en e t r a t edb yt h el o c a len v i ro nm en ta sb y as lowp ro c e s so fo sm o s i s .Aqu i ckg l an c ei sn o ten o u g htofu l lyap p r e c i a t eth eb e au tyo fth e l an d s c ap eo r o fa m o n um en t .L and s c ap eand m onum en t sa r ec lo s e lyb o u n dtoth el i f eo fth ep eo p l e .Th el an d s c a p e in f lu en c e sth el o c a lc u l tu r e ,and m onum en t sa r ei t sp ro d u c t .A n dcu l tu r ei sn o tr ev e a l e db yr e ad i n gab o o k -cu l tu r ei sinth ec ad en c eo fs p e e c h ,th em an n e ro fw a lk in g ,th eg e s tu r e s ,Im ig h ta lm o s ts ay ,th eb r e a th o fth ep eo p l e . Th eE g y p t i anpy r am id s ,th em o squ e s ,th eb a z a a r sin C a i ro ,th ed e s e r ts c en e ry ,t h em o u n t a in so f E r i t r e a ,th ecu s tom so fth eind ig enou spo p u l a t io n ,a r eto m e ,o n lyp a r t i a lv i ew so fanu n f in i sh e dp a in t in g . Myim p r e s s i on sa r ei n com p l e t e . The r e fo r ei ti sb e s tt h a tIn o ttoa t t em p ttocom p e t ew i thT h eN a t io n a l G eo g ra p h i co rw i thI lM i l l i on e .Iw i l ll im i tm y s e l ftocomm en t in go naf ewth in g sth a ts to o do u tf o rm e , w i th o u tg en e r a l i z ing . * * * I nth etw om on th sIsp en tin A sm a r aIb eg ant ou n d e r s t an dh owt h eI t a l i an ss o lv edth ep ro b l emo f co l o n i a li s tr e l a t ion sb e tw e enth er a c e s .I t a l i an sh av ea lw ay sth o u g h tth a tI t a lyw as o v e rp o p u l a t ed . Th e r e fo r e ,u n l ik eth eF r en ch ,I t a l i a n sd idn o tt rytoa s s im i l a t ep eo p l eo fco l o rw h ow e r ep a r to fth e i r co lo n i a la cqu i s i t ion s .O nt h eo th e rh an d ,I t a l i an sco u ldn o ta l lowth em s e lv e sth elu x u ryo fc r e a t in ga com p l e t e lys ep a r a t eso c i e t y ,l ik eth eE ng l i sh ,b e c a u s ei tw a sto oex p en s iv etot r an sp o r tan dm a in t a inth e f am i l i e so fI t a l i ano f f i c i a l sandadm in i s t r a to r s .S ot h eI t a l i an se s t ab l i sh edar eg im ein w h i c h ,l ik eth e E n g l i sh ,th ew h i t er a c ew a sp r edom in an tan dd idn o tm ixso c i a l ly w i thth elo c a l s ,b u ti tp e rm i t t e ds ex u a l r e l a t io n sw i thth elo c a lw om en . Th i ss t a t eo fa f f a i r ss u i t edbo thth eI t a l i anan dt h eT ig r e ancu l t u r e s .I nf a c t ,ev eninth e i rh om e l an d , th eI t a l i a nm enw e r e inth eh ab i to fs a t i s fy in gth e i r" b u l lcom p l ex e s "w i th o u tin v o lv in gth e i ra f f e c t io n san d w i th o u tm ak ings e r iou s comm i tm en t s .T h eT ig r e a n sp r a c t i c edaf o rmo fm a r r i ag eth a tw a se a s i lyd i s so lv ed , a l l ow in gth e i rw om ento m ak et em po r a ry ,b u tr e sp e c t ab l e ,u n io n s .A l so ,l ik em anyo th e rco u n t r i e sw h e r e 43 th e r ea r ep eo p l eo fco lo r ,t h elo c a l sadm i r edl ig h t e rc om p l ex io n s ,ev enam o n gth em s e lv e s .Th ew om end id n o tn e edt ob ea sk edtw i c etob e com eco n cu b in e so fI t a l i ano f f i c i a l s ,w i th w h om ,inad d i t io ntosom e m a t e r i a lad v an t ag e s ,th eyg a in edin c r e a s edp r e s t ig eint h e irow nso c i e ty . B u ta m adam a-th i sw a sth en am eg iv enth ein d ig en o u sco n so r t s-w a sn o tadm i t t edi n to w h i t e so c i e ty .S h ed idno tv i s i tth ef am i l i e so fth eh u sb an d ' sf r i en d s ,an dsh eco u ldn o ten t e rth eh o t e l san d r e s t au r an t sth a tw e r er e s e rv edfo rI t a l i a n s .S e p a r a t io nw a scom p l e t e ,ex c ep tinb e d . Im e ton eo fth e s em adam a sw h enIv i s i teda no f f i c i a lf romth eto p o g r ap h i cs e rv i c e s .H ew a sc am p ed o u tn e a rth eE t h io p i a nbo r d e rino rd e rto m apth er eg io n .H el iv edinat en tw i thh i sm a d am a. H ew a sth e o n lyw h i t em anth e r e .H i sa s ca r iso ld i e r sp ro b ab lyh a dth e i rw iv e sw i thth em ,a sw a sth elo c a lcu s tom .Th e m a d am aw a sag oodw om an ,w how e l c om edu sinasp o n t an eo u san dc o u r t eo u sw ay. Wea l sog o ttok now ,am ongo th e r s ,ano l dco l o n i a lo f f i c i a lw h oh adl iv edinE r i t r e aalo n gt im ean d w h op r e f e r r e dt osp endh i sr e t i r e m en ty e a r sinA sm a r ar a th e rth anr e t u rntoI t a ly .H av in gl iv edinE r i t r e afo r solo n g ,h elov edth ecou n t r yandi t sp eop l e ,an dh a dw r i t t e ns ev e r a lb o o k sabo u tt h em . O n ed ay w em e th imonth ero ad .H ew a sa c com p an i edb yad i s t in g u i s h edan da t t r a c t iv ey o u n g m u l a t to,o n eo fth ed aug h t e r sbyh i sm ad am a,at an g ib l er e su l to fh i sl o v efo rt h ep eo p l eo ft h eco u n t ry .W e in v i t edh imtoa m e a la tth eho t e lw h e r ew eu su a l lya t e ," to g e th e rw i thth es ig n o r in a . "H ec am e ,b u tth e s ig n o r in ad idno t ,b e c a u s esh ew a sn o tp e rm i t t ed .I ti sn o tc l e a rto m ew h a tt h efu tu r eh e ldfo rt h e s e m u l a t to e s ,edu c a t ed a sI t a l i an s ,bu tno tadm i t t edtoI t a l i ans o c i e ty . M an yo ft h eg i r l sb e c am ep ro s t i t u t e s ,o r , a tb e s t ,th eya l sob e c am em adam as . Id idno ts e eanys e r iou se f fo r tb e in gm ad etos e t t l eI t a l i an si nt h eco lo n y .I t a l i an sd on o th av ea p io n e e r in gsp i r i t .I fI t a l i an sem ig r a t e ,t h eyp r e f e rtog otoaco u n t ryth a to f f e r sth emajo b ,t h antoal an d w h e r eev e ry th ings t i l lh a stob eo rg an i z ed . Th eg o v e rnm en th adb u i l taf ewex p e r im en t a lag r i c u l tu r a l s t a t io n s ,an dasm a l lnum b e ro fp l an t a t io n s .B u tth e r ew e r en osm a l lf a rm so fth ek in dth a tp u td ow nr o o t si n th es o i l . I nsp i t eo ft h e i rcom p l ex e s ,th eI t a l i a n sh av eb e enl e s se f fe c t iv einp o p u l a t in gth ew o r ldth a nth e co ld b lo o d ed A ng lo -S axon s .Iamso r rytoo f f en dth ep r id eo fm ycon a t io n a l s ,b u tm o d e rnI t a l i an s ,a s o p p o s edtoth ean c i en tR om an s ,h av eno th a dm u chsu c c e s sine x p o r t i n gth e i rg en e t i co rc u l tu r a lp a t r im o n y . * * * A f t e rco l l e c tingou rd a t a ,w esp en ttw ow e ek st r av e l l in ga ro u n dth eco lo n yinag o v e rnm en tc a r. W e r e tu rn e dh om ew i thas topinth eS ud ana n dd i s em b a r k eda tP o r tS u e z .C ro s s in gth ed e s e r tt oC a i rob yc a r , w e th enb o a rd edat r a int oA l ex an d r i a . Th ep y r am i d sd idn o tim p r e s sm ea sm u cha sth eN ew Y o rk sk y s c r ap e r sd idl a t e r .B u tI w a sim p r e s s edb yth et r e a su r e so fTu t an k h am enan dsom eo fth eE g y p t i an s cu lp tu r e sw h i cht aug h tm ehowr e f in edth ea r tan dcu l tu r eo fan c i en tE g y p t i anh a do n c eb e en . W er e tu rn edto V en i c ea tt h eendo fD e c em b e r .E n t e r in gth ela g u n ao nt h e"G an g e s "(8 0 0 0m e t r i c to n s ) ,w es awth ec i tyb l an k e tedinsnow .F romthe r e ,Iw en ts t r a ig h ttoF lo r en c et osp en daf eww e ek sth e r e b e fo r eg o in gtoP a du aw h e r eIh adb e enh i r edtow o rka tt h eU n iv e r s i ty . Iw en tt os e eo ldf r i end s ,f e e l ingth ep r id eo fay o u n gm an w h oh a sju s tr e tu rn edf romas c i en t i f i c ex p ed i t io no v e r s e a s .F o raf eww e ek sIr e sum ed m yu su a lF lo r en t in ew ayo fl i f e . On eev en ingIh adasu rp r i s e .Iw a sh av in gd in n e ra tG iu l i an o ' sh o u s ew h e nap h o n ec a l lf romh om e in fo rm ed m eth a tE ug en io w a sw a i t ingfo rm ein m yro om .Ik n ewth a tE u g en io w a st e a ch i n gL a t inina h ig hs ch o o lin Mon t ep u l c i ano ,inTu s c an yI tw a ss t r an g efo rE u g en iotob et e a ch in gL a t in ,a sh ed i dn o t k n owi tw e l l .B u th i sav e r s i ontos c i e n c eh adim p e l l edh imtol o o kfo rad i f f e r e n tk in do fw o rk .H et au g h ti n ap r iv a t es c hoo l ,run ,Ith in k ,byp r i e s t s .A tth a tt im e ,i fIr em em b e rco r r e c t ly ,E u g en iod idn o tw an ttojo in th eF a s c i s tp a r tysoh ec ou ldno tb eem p lo y edinth ep u b l i cs e c to r .H ew a sco n f u s eda tth et im e ,t ry in gto d e c id ew h a th ew a n t e dtod o .H ed idno tw a n ttoc om p rom i s e . Ifo u ndh imw a i t ingin m yroom ,lo o k in gm o r eu n k em p tth a nu s u a l :h i ssh o e sh adb e enw o rnlo n g e r th anth el e a th e rco u ldpo s s i b lyl a s t .H i ssu i tw a sd i r tya n dw o rn .H eto ldm eth a th eh adlo s th i sp o s i t io na sa L a t i nt e a ch e rfo rr e a so n st h a tw e r eno tc l e a rto m e-p ro b ab lyb e c au s eh ew a sn o ta m em b e ro fth ep a r ty , b e c au s eo fh i ss t r ang eb eh a v io r ,andb e c au s eo fh i sl im i t edk n ow l ed g eo fL a t in .H eh adat i ck e tfo rT r i e s t e , 44 b u tn om o n ey .Io f f e r edtol e th ims l e epa tm yh o u s e ,b u th e r eIw a sinfo ran o t h e rsu rp r i s e-E u g en iow a s n o ta lo n e .H ew a sw i thth ef r i end(no tag i r l f r i en d )w i th w h omh eh adl iv edi nM i l a n .Th ef r i en dw a s w a i t in gfo rh ima tth etr a ins t a t io n . W ew en tt of indE u g en io ' sf r i en d .H ew a sas t r an g ep e r so n ,th in ,w i thg l a s s e s .H ew a sc a r ry in ga v io l in .T h e i rb ag g ag econ s i s t edo faf ewo ldsu i t c a s e san daf ewo d do b j e c t s ,am o ng w h i chIe sp e c i a l ly r em em b e raboxo fsho ew ax .Idon ' tk now w h yth es h o ew ax w a sn o tinasu i t c a s e .T h ep r e s en c eo fth i s f r i en ds e em eds t r ang e ,bu tIg av eh imsom em o n eysoth a th eco u ldg e taro ominah o t e l . In ev e rl e a rn e dw hoth i sp e r s on w a s ,w h a th eth o u g h t ,o rw h a th i sr e l a t io n sh i pw a sto E u g en io . E u g en iot o ld m eth a th ew a sav io l int e a ch e rw h ow a n t edtog e tad eg r e esoh eco u ldt e a chine l em en t a ry s ch o o l .E u g en ioh adt ak enh ima sas t ud en t ,an dsu p p o r t edh imf in an c i a l ly . Id o n ' tk nowhowth i sp e r s onh adb e enab l etoch a rmE u g en io .O b v io u s l yth e r ew a ssom e th in gt h e tw oo fth emd idno tw an tk now n .Ith inkth a tt h ep r i e s t so fth es c h o o la t Mo n t ep u l c i an ot h o u g h tt h a tth e r e l a t io n sh ipb e tw e enth e s em en w a sno to n lys t r an g e ,b u ta l sos ex u a l lyi r r eg u l a r ,an dth a tth i sw a so n eo f th er e a so n sth a tE ug en i oh adb e end i sm i s s ed .F o rm yp a r t ,Ic an n o tb e l i ev ei t .H ow ev e r ,I w o u ldb ev e ry m u chsu rp r i s ed ,ev en now ,i fI w e r etol e a rnth a tth e i rf r i en d sh ip w a sp o l i t i c a l .Th i ss t r an g ep e r so nm u s t h av eb e l i ev edinsom ean th ro po sop h i c a ld o c t r in ew h i chh a dm an ag edtoc ap tu r eE u g en i o ' sco n fu s e d im ag in a t io n . E u g en ioan dIc l im b edth es a c r edh i l lo fA r c e t r itos e ei fh eco u ldf i n dajo bth e r e .F o raf ewd ay si t s e em edth a th em ig h tg e tag r an ta tth ea s t ro p h y s i c so b s e rv a to ry .G iv enh i sn e ed ,h ew o u ldh av ea c c ep t edi t . I ,a sw e l la sh i so t h e rf r i en d sa tA r c e t r i ,to ldh imw ew o u ldsu p p o r th i sc an d id a c yo nth eco n d i t io nth a th e l e f th i s" f r i end . "Th i sm ad eh imfu r iou s ,a n dh eto ldu stos t ayo u to fh i sp r iv a t el i f e ,an dth a ti fh ee a r n ed m o n ey ,h ew a sf r e etodow h a th el ik edw i thi t .I nth een d ,th eg r an tn ev e rm a t e r i a l i z ed ,an dE u g en iol e f t fo rT r i e s t e .Iadv i s edh imt os topinV en i c etos e eR o s s i ,an dt oa skfo rh i sad v i c ea n dsu p p o r t .H ed idso , an dw a sap p o in t edt oapo s i t ionth eU n iv e r s i tyo fP ad u a,w h e r eIm e th iml a t e r . * * * Im y s e l fl e f tf o rP ad u ainJ anu a ry ,1 9 3 4w h e r eIsp en tth er e s to fth ea c ad em i cy e a ra sR o s s i ' s a s s i s t an t .I nth eo ldl abo r a to ryIp a t i en t lyco n d u c t e ds c i e n t i f i cr e s e a r ch ,an dh e l p edth ey o u n g e rs t u d en t s h an d l eth em o r eb a s i cequ i pm en t . Iw a sv e ryh e s i t an tw i th m ys tud en t s .Ir em em b e r edto ow e l lh owr e c en t lyIh adb e ens i t t in go nt h e o th e rs id eo ft h et e a ch e r ' sd e sk ,t ry ingtod i s ru p tc l a s s r o omd i s c ip l in e .Ir em em b e r edh owc l a s s e s ,e sp e c i a l ly th o s et au g h tbyy ounga s s i s t an t s ,c ou ldb e com ew i ldan dn o i sy .Id e c id edth i sw o u ldn o th ap p e ni nm y c l a s s e s .Ib eg anbyt r e a t ingth es tud en t sd r i lyan ds ev e r e lysoth a tt h ey w o u ldn o tb e c om eo v e rco n f id e n t . A sIw a sy o ung e rth an m anyo fth em ,Ith o u g h tIh adtos t aya lo o ft ok e epd i s c i p l in e .I fsom eo n ed a r edto t a lk w h i l eI w a ssp e ak ing ,Ia sk edh imi fh eh adan y th in gtos ay .Th es tu d en t ,em b a r r a s s ed ,w o u l dq u i t t a lk in g . E v en tu a l ly ,Ino t i c edth a tth i sm e th o dw a sn o tth eb e s t ,soIb eg antot r e a ts tu d en t sa sc o l l e ag u e s w h i chs u i t ed m em u chb e t t e r .N on e th e l e s s ,Ic an n o tc om p l a inab o u tl a cko fd i s c ip lin ein m yc l a s s e s .Th i s co u ldp a r t lyb eb e c au s eV en e t i ans tu d en t sa r ei ng en e r a ll e s ss a rd o n i can dl e s sex u b e r an tth anF lo r en t i n e s tu d e n t s .B u tIb e l i ev et h a tm o s ts tud en t sa r er e l a t iv e l yd i s c ip l in ed ,an dt rytol e a rn w h a ti sb e in gt au g h t w h ent r e a t edco rdi a l lybyat e a c h e rw h oh a sth eco u r ag etolo o kth ems t r a ig h tint h eey e . U n fo r tu n a t e ly ,I w a s no tt e a ch ingc l a s s e sth a tw e r ev e ryin t e r e s t in g .A s th ey o u n g e s tp e r so nint h e l ab o r a t o ry ,andt h el a s ton eh i r e d ,Ih adtoco n fo rmtoalo n g e s t ab l i sh edt r ad i t i o nb yw h i chs tu d en t sh adto l e a rnto w e ig hp r e c i s e ly ,andm e a su r et em p e r a tu r esm e t i cu lo u s ly ,w i th o u tk n ow in gan yth in gab o u tth e f a s c in a t i n gfound a t i on so fs c i en c e .L a t e ro nIt r i edtoc h an g eth e"p h y s i c se x e r c i s e s "s oth eyw o u ldp rom o t e anap p r e c i a t io no fn a tu r a ll aw s ,r a th e rt h ans im p lyd ev e lo pg o o dm e a su r in gt e c h n i q u e s . I nP adu a, m yb e s tf r i en d sw e r eE u g en ioC u r i e lan dU g oF io r e n t in o .E u g en ioh a dr e c e iv edasm a l l g r an tth a tw a senoug htosuppo r th imfo raf ew m o n th s .H es t i l ll iv edo u to ftow nw i thh i sm y s t e r io u s f r i en d .L a t e rh ef oundapo s i t iona sana s s i s t an to fm e c ca n i cara z io n a l e.Th ep ro f e s s o ro fm e ch an i c s ,P ro f . L au r a ,w a saw a r eo fm yf r i en d ' sw and e r i n g s ,an dh a dt ak enal ik in gtoh im w i th o u tk n ow in gh im w e l l . 45 S in c eh eh a dnoa s s i s t an t ,h eo f f e r edth ep o s i t io ntoE u g en io ,w h ot em p o r a r i lyab an d o n edh i sav e r s io nt o s c i e n c e .B u tE ug en ionol ong e rcondu c t e dex p e r im en t s .Her a r e lyth o u g h tab o u ts c i en c eo u t s id eo fh i s t e a c h in gd u t i e s ,andth enh ew a si n t e r e s t e dex c lu s iv e l yinq u es t io n so ffo rm a lm a th em a t i c so rp h i lo so p h y . P ro f .L au r aw a s an o ld e rp ro f e s so r ,w i th a g en e ro u s sp i r i t ,r em a rk ab l ei n t e l l ig en c e , an da g o o d u n d e r s t a n d ingo fth ehum ansp i r i t .H ef e l tth a ta th i sag ei tw a su s e l e s stoco n t i n u ed o i n gr e s e a r ch .F o ra w h i l e ,bo t hth ep r o f e s so ra ndth ea s s i s t an tw o r r i edth a tt h eo th e rm ig h tr eq u i r eh imtow o rk . Wh enth ey r e a l i z edth a tth e i rw o r r i e sw e r ecom p l e t e lyu n fo u n d ed ,th eyb e c am eg o o df r i en d s . E u g en iol iv edau s t e r e ly .O n c eaned i to rs en th imal e t t e rad d r e s s ed :F a th e rC u r i e l ,M a th em a t i c s S em in a ry . Wh enth i sb e c am ek now n ,a l lh i sf r i en d st e a sedh imb yn i ck n am in gh im"F a th e r " . U g ow a ss tudy ingl aw ,andthoug h th ew o u ldg r ad u a t ew i thad eg r e ei nP h i lo so p h yo fL aw .F o ra w h i l eU g oand E ug en iod idno tm e e t .E u g en ioth o u g h tth a ts in c eU g ow a sm yf r i en d ,h ew o u ldb e "p h i lo s o p h i c a l ly "un i n t e r e s t ing .U g otho u g h tth a ts i n c eE u g en io w a sana s s i s t a n t ,E u g en ioh adsu p e r io r s t an d in g ,an dl im i t edh i sr e l a t ion sh iptog r e e t in gh imr e sp e c t f u l ly ,to u c h in gh i sh a t .Kn ow i n gth a tb o thh ad w id er an g in gin t e r e s t sandbo th w e r ean t i F a s c i s t s ,It r i edtoen c o u r ag eth emt ob e com ef r i en d s .B u tfo r a lm o s tay e a rm ye f fo r t sw e r ei nv a in . U g ow a son eo fth o s ep eop l ew ho s ea c t i o n sd idn o ta lw ay sco r r e sp o n dtoh i slo g i c .H i sac t i o n sw e r e s an e rth anh i sid e a s .H espo r t edana s sy ro b ab y lo n i anb e a rd ,w h i che a r n edh imth en i ck n am eo fI t a loB a lb o . H i sd r e s sw a ss lov en ly ,an dh eh adaw e l lk n ow nh o r ro ro fw a t e ra sas o lv en tfo rth ed i r tth a ta c cum u l a t e d o nh i sb o d y .H elook edd ow nonbou rg eo i sc o n v en t i o n stoth eex t en tth a th esom e t im e ss e em edv u lg a r .B u t Il ik edh i sv u lg a r i tyb e c au s ei tw a sn a tu r a lan ds an e . H i sm o s tf i rm lyh e ldth e o ryd e a l tw i ths ex u a lr e l a t io n s .Th e r ew e r et h r e ep eo p l e(m ay b eth eo n ly th r e eo nth i se a r th )w hosh a r edth i st h eo ry :U g oF io r e n t in o ,I o n aP r a toan dR en a to M i e l i .Th eyw e r ea l lo f E g y p t i ano r ig in ,andth eyh adc r e a t edth i sm a s t e rp i e c eo fth o u g h tw h i l er e s t in ginth eh o ta f t e r n o o n si n A l ex an d r i a .M ay b ea sar e a c t i ontoth eho tc l im a t ean dth elu x u r ia n tn a tu r eo fth e i rb i r th p l a c e ,th eyb e l i ev ed th a ta l lem o t ion w a simm o r a l ,o ra tl e a s tam o r a l .T h eyth o u g h tth a ts ex w a so n eo ft h elow e s tty p e so f b o d i lyfu n c t ion s ,a ndcom p a r edi ttoth ea c to f" r id d in gth eb o d yo fex c e s sw e ig h t " ,top a r ap h r a s e B o c c a c c io .A ny on ein t e r e s t edinu nd e r s t an d in gth i sth e o ryc anr e adU g o ' sb o o k . Th r o u g hU g o ,Ig o ttok nowo th e rs t u d en t sint h eD ep a r tm en to fth eP h i lo so p h yo fL aw .Am o n gth e s e w e r eE n r i c oO po ch e ra ndE t to r eL u c c i n i . * * * Th a ty e a rIl iv edinap en s i on erunb yano ld e rl a d y .S h ef edu sf ru g a l ly .Th ep l a c ew a su n in t e r e s t in g , an dl a ck edsom eo fth eb a s i ce l em en t so fcom fo r t .W i t hn oru n n in gw a t e rin m yro om ,Iw a shedw i thw a t e r f romaju g .Ev e rym o rn ingajugo fho tw a t e rw a sb ro u g h tto m yro omsoth a tIco u ldsh av e .T h e r ew a sn o b a thinth eh ou s e ,soIh adt og ototh epub l i cb a th si fIw an t edtosh ow e r .O nth eo th e rh an d ,th eh o u s ew a s w e l lh e a t ed ,w i thc en t r a lh e a t i ng .Itw a sth eb e s tIco u l da f f o rd . B ye conom i z ingonc ig a r e t t e sandco f f e eI w a sab l etos av een o u g hm o n eytog oto V e n i c eo r F lo r e n c eo nS und ay s .I nP adu aIh adaf ewg o o df r i en d s ,b u tn o tac i r c l eo ff r i en d s ,s oth et r ip stoF lo r en c e an dV en i c ew e r en e c e s s a rytor e l i ev eth elo n e l in e s s . Ih adv i s i t edV en i c ea f t e rh ig hs cho o l ,b u tIw a sp ro b a b lyto oy o u n gtoap p r e c i a t ei td u r in gth i sf i r s t v i s i t . Myt a s t e sw e r eno tw e l lenoug hd ev e lo p ed .A f t e raf ewd ay s ,Ih adb ecom eb o r edb yth eq u i e to ft h e c an a l san dth en a r rows t r e e t s .I m i s s ed m o d e rnl i f e ,w i thi t sn o i s ean di t st r a f f i c .A tth a tt im e ,Ih adn o ty e t com eo u to fm y" sh e l l " ,an dIh adon lyasu p e r f i c i a lv i ewo fl i f e .Ir em em b e ro n c e ,w a lk in gb ym ys e l f ,I tu rn edo n toas t r e e tth a ten d edonac an a l :Iw a sin d ig n an ta th av in gtotu r nb a cks in c eth e r ew a sn ob r id g e a c ro s sth ec an a l ,andIcu r s edth ei r r a t i on a l i tyo fV en e t i anto p o g r ap h y . Th i st im eIw a sv e ryh appyto w and e ran dg e tlo s tam o n gth es t r e e t s ,th esq u a re s ,th eb r id g e san dt h e c an a lw a lk s .Ir e a l i z edth a tev enth em o s tm o d e s th o u s ew a sb e au t i fu linsom esm a l lw ay ;th a tev e ryc an a l h adi t sow nc h a rm ,andth a tf romev e ryb r id g eo n eh adana lm o s tex a l t edv i ew .In olo n g e rcom p l a in e d ab o u tth eab s en c eo fex t e r i o rs ig n so fcon t em p o r a rys o c i e ty ,d e l ig h t edt oab so rbth eam b i en c eo fanan c i en t c iv i l i z a t io nf romw h i ch m od e rn m anh ad m u chtol e a r n .Iu s edtos ayth a t ,a f t e rw o rk in gth een t i r ew e ek ,I 46 a l l ow edm y s e l fth elux u ryo fh av ingad r e amS u n d ayinV e n i c e . O n en ig h t ,w a lk ingw i thE ug en ioinanu n f am i l i a rn e ig h b o rh o o d ,w efo u n dt h es t r e e tb lo ck edb yar ed b r i ckw a l l .W ew e r ep rob ab lya l r e a dyeng ag edinanan im a t edco n v e r s a t io nab o u th i s to ryo ra r t ,an dth a tr e d w a l l ap p e a r edu n r e a l ,o rs up e rn a tu r a l .Th en a r r ows t r e e tth a ten d edsoab r u p t lyd i sm ay edu s ,l ik eab ad d r e am .Wh y ?B e c au s eth eV en e t i ansu r rou n d in g sh adtr an sp o r t edu sb ey o n dr a t i o n a lth o u g h t ,b e c au s ew e h adb e c om ea c cu s tom edt os e e ingsom e th in gb e au t i fu la tev e rys t ep-a w in d ow ,ad o o r ,ab a l c o n y ,a b r id g e ,ag o ndo l a .W er e s pond edtoev e rys to n ea n dev e ryco rn e ra si fi tw e r eal iv in gc r e a t u r e .Th er e d b a r r i e ra c ro s sth es t r e e tw a sno ts im p lyab r i ckw a l l .I tw a sas t ro n gm a l ig n an tsp i r i tb lo ck in go u rp a s s ag e . Th ew a l lm ad eu ssh udd e r ,andw equ i ck lytu rn edb a ck . Th en w es awalongs t r e e t ,m ay b en a r row e rth a nu su a l ,a tth een do fw h i c hw eco u lds e et h es t a rl i t sk y .W eh e ad e ddow nth i sa l l ey ,f i l l ingi t sen t i r ew id th ,an dw a lk edth ro u g hth esh ad ow st ow a rd sth e v e r t i c a ls t r i p eo fsk y .W ew a lk edalo ngt im e ,a si fi r r e s i s t ib lya t t r a c t edb yth es t a r l ig h t ,u n t i lw er e a ch e dth e l ag o o nf a c ingth ei s l ando f Mu r a no .Th i si sth ek in do fad v en tu r eth a tV en i c eh a sins to r ef o rt h o s ew h o lo v ean du n d e r s t a ndh e r . * * * I nV en i c eIo f t en m e tL au r aP .Ih ad m e th e rth ep r ev io u ssumm e ra tth eL id o .Ien jo y edh e r com p an y ,andh e rconv e r s a t i on w a sin t e r e s t in g . W em e to f t enth ro u g h o u tth a tw in t e r .S h ew a sap a in t e r an dsh es an g .Idon ' tk nowhoww e l lsh es a n g ,s in c eIn ev e rh e a r dh e r,b u tsh ep a i n t edv e ryw e l l .S h ew a sa d i s t in g u i s h eda ndr i chbou r g eo i s ,bu th e rp a in t in g sd idn o tr ev e a lh e ro r ig in s . Mo s t lysh ep a in t edc h i ld r en .E x c ep tf o rsom ep o r tr a i t so fr i cho rn o b l ech i ld r e nth a tsh ep a i n t e dfo r p ay ,h e rm o d e l sw e r eu su a l lych i ld r eno fth es t r e e t s ,p o o ran do f t enh u n g ry .H e rch i ld r en w e r ed r e s s e din r ag s ,an dh adas ad ,bu td e t e rm in edexp r e s s io n .H e rd r aw in gsk i l l sw e r es t ro n g .Ih av eav iv id m em o ryo fa p a in t in go fm o th e randch i l d ,w h i chw a st h eo n eIl ik edb e s t . Io f t enw en ttoL au r a ' shou s e .I tw a so n eo ft h o s eV en e t i a nh o u s e sw i t hal i t t l eh id d end o o rinad a rk a l l ey w ay th a top en sun e xp e c t e d lyon tosp a c io u sro om san db r ig h tw in d ow s-ah o u s ew i th ani r r a t io n a l f lo o rp l anth a ti sf a s c in a t ingb e c au s ei t ' sfu l lo fsu r p r i s e s . H e rf am i ly w a sn o rm a l ,o rr a th e r ,b an a l . Th ey w e r esoc o n s e rv a t iv eth a tsh ew a sn o ta l low e dt og o o u ta l o n ew i thm einth eev en ing s .S h ew a sn o th ap p ya th om e ,an dsh ew a slo n e l y .Th er e l a t io n sh ip sw i t h i n h e rf am i lyw e r ed ig n i f i eda ndbo r ing .H e rb ro th e rh a df r i en d si nth eV en e t i ana r i s to c r a cy ,an do f t enc am e h om ew i thasw a rmo fno i s yandin s ig n i f i c an ty o u n gp eo p l e . L au r aw a saf ewy e a r so ld e rth anI ,b u tw ee n jo y ede a cho th e r ' scom p an y .W ew e r eb e s tf r i en d s . M ay b e ,a tt ime s ,w ef e l tt h a tw ew e r em o r eth anju s tf r i en d s ,b u tw en ev e radm i t t e di ttoe a c ho th e r .N ow th a tIth in kb a ckoni t ,Iw ond e ri fi tw a sb e c au s eIw a ssh y .B u tId o n ' tth in kso .Ih adto om u chr e sp e c tan d e s t e emfo rh e r ,a ndI w ou ldh av ef e l tt h a tb yf l i r t in g ,I w o u ldru ino u rf r i en d sh ip .Tog ob ey o n dm e r e f l i r t in gw o u ldnoth av eb e enpo s s ib l eb e c au s eo fh e rp r e ju d i c e s ,an db e c a u s eI w an t edtoav o id m ak in g comm i tm en t so fanyk ind . S ow esp en tlonga f t e rnoon si ncon v e r s a t io n-we w e r en ev e ra talo s sf o rasu b j e c t-or w ew o u ld ex p lo r eV en i c etog e th e r ,w i thou texh au s t in gi t sin n um e r ab l eso u r c e so fb e a u t y .Myf r i en d sf romP ad u a w e r en o taw a r eo ft h en a tu r eo fm yr e l a t io n sw i thth eV e n e t i anb o u rg eo i s i e ,an dm ad efu no fm yv i s i t st o L au r aP .I tw asa tth i st im eth a tU g oF io r en t in ob eg a ntoc a l lm esa lo t t i s ta .S o o nh ea l sob e c am eL au r a ' s g o o df r i en d ,an db eg ant ov i s i tw i thh e r .S t i l l ,th en i ck n am esa lo t t i s tas tu ck . I nth esumm e rI w o rk eda tn ig h tan do f t ensp e n td ay sa tth eL i d o .Il e f tP ad u ai nth em o rn in gan d a r r iv edin V en i c ea ta bou tt en .Ien joy edaf e r ryr id eo nth eG r an dC an a l ,o ra w a lka lo n gth eM e r c e r i e . Ia l low ed m y s e l faf ew m inu t e so fe c s t a t i cco n t em p l a t io ni nS t .M a rk ' sS q u a r e ,an dth enb o a rd e dth ef e r ry fo rth eL i d o .O nth ebo a tIo f t e nm e tf r i en d sw h ow e r ea l s oh e a d in go u tfo rasw im ,an dIjo in edth emo n th eb e a ch .Iw a sag u e s tinon eo fth ef i r s trowo fc a b i n sa lo n gth eb e a ch ,i nas e c t io nth a tw a sf r eq u en t e db y th eb e s to fI t a l i anso c i e ty .Th eL idoi sin t e rn a t io n a l lyf am o u s ,b u ti ta l s oa t t r a c t sI t a l i anin t e l l e c tu a l s .I t s p ro x im i tyto V en i c ew i thi t sa r tt r e a su r e sa n dcu l tu r a la t t r a c t io n sw a sad r awfo rp ro f e s so r s ,p ro f e s s io n a l s an da r t i s t s ,w hom e tth e i rV en e t i anf r i en d so nth eb e a c hb yth eH o t e ld e sB a in s . 47 Th e r eIm e tth eR o s s i s ,th eL om b ro so s ,a n dth eT e rn i s .U g oF io r en t in oa n dh i sf r i en dE n r i coC ap o ch e r w e r eam o n gth ey oungp eop l ew hoc am e .S om e t im e sev enth eau s t e r e"Fa t h e r "C u r i e lc am e .H ew a sa n ex c e l l e n tsw imm e r ,andw a slo s ingsom eo fth ec lum s in e s san dem b a r r a s sm en to fh i sy o u th . If e l tv e ry m u cha te a s einth i sg ro u p .Th ey o u n gp eo p l einth ef r o n t rowc ab in sa tth eB a in sw e r e g en e r a l lyan t i f a s c i s t .I nsom ec a s e s ,am o ngth ech i ld r eno fin t e l l e c tu a l s ,t h i sw a sm o r eb yf am i lyt r ad i t io n a n dsn o b b e ryth anth er e su l to fp o l i t i c a li n s ig h t .B u tth i sc omm u n i tyo fid e a sh e lp e dm ef e e lm o r e com fo r t ab l einc om p any .Du r ingth elo nga f t e rn o o nh o u r s ,w el ayinth es u n ,o rw a lk eda lo n gth eb e a chin p l e a s an tco nv e r s a t ion ,ons ub j e c t sth a tw e r em o r eo rl e s sp ro f o u n d ,o na l la s p e c t so fh um ank n ow l ed g e : p h i l o so p h y ,s c i en c e ,po l i t i c s ,lov e . . . O n esumm e rm o rn in gIa r r iv edont h eb e a ch a tth eL id o . Myf r i en d sw e r e ex c i t e d lyr e ad i n ga n ew sp ap e r . "D idy ous e eth en ew s ? "th eya sk edm e . Ih adn o ts e en .Th eN a z i sh adk i l l edD o l fu s s . "O n el e s sd i c t a to r ! "w a sm yr e a c t i o n . "T h eya r eb eg in n in gtok i l le a c ho th e r .L e t ' sh o p eth eyk e epi t u p ! " Mu s so l in is en tt roo p stoth eB r enn e rP a s s . W ef e a r ed w a r .B u to nth ew h o l e ,w eal l ,ev enth e an t i f a s c i s t s ,app rov edo fM u s so l in i ' sm ov e .W ew o u ldh av eb e enu n i t edino p p o s in gth ed an g e ro fas t ro n g G e rm ans t a t ea longou rA l pin ebo rd e r .B o thF a s c i s tsan dan t i f a s c i s t sk n ewth a tth eA n s ch lu s sh adtob e av o id eda ta l lc o s t s .F o raf ewd ay sth esp i r i to fA lb e r tod iG iu s s a n oan dth eL om b a rdL e a g u ew a sinth e a i r . Tow a r d sth eendo fA ug u s t ,r e t u rn in gf romaf i e l dt r ipi nth eA l p s ,I m e tth et ro o p sth a th adb e ens en t tog u a rdth eA u s t r i anf ron t i e r .Th eso ld i e r sm a r ch edw i thah e av ys t ep ,w i th o u te n th u s i a sm ,a si fth eyw e r e sh o u l d e r in gth edu tyo fev e ryI t a l i an :tod e f en dth ev a l l eyo fth eP of romth eN a z iG e rm an m en a c e .Is aw c an n o n sa n dl ig h tt ank s .I w a sm ov edbyth es ig h to fth i sa rm ym o v inga lo n gt h et o r tu o u sA lp in ero ad s . W a s th i s"m ya rm y "th a th a dg on etod e f en d"m yco u n t ry "ag a in s tp o s s ib l ed an g e r ? M ay b eth e r ew a sap s y cho log i c a le l em en tto m yem o t io nth a ti sl a t en tin a l lp eo p l e :th ea dm i r a t io no f b ru t efo r c e .Iw a sc e r t a in lyno ten thu s i a s t i cab o u tth ep r in c ip l eo fn a t io n a l i sm ,y e tIh adak n o tin m yth ro a t w a t chin gth ea rm ym a r ch i ngc lo s et oth en a t io n a lb o rd e rw h enth eco u n t ry w a sind an g e r ,ev enth o u g hi t w a su n d e ro rd e r so fag ov e rnm en tIh a t ed . I fIth inkabou ti t ,Ic a nund e r s t andh owp eo p l ek i l la n da r ek i l l edinw a r . B u tM u s so l i n iw a sat r a i to rev ento A lb e r tod iG iu s s an o .Th et ro o p sw e r ew i th d r aw in g .T h ey w o u ld n o th av es to pp edt h eA n s ch lu s s .Th ee n em yw o u ldh av eev en tu a l lyd e s c en d edi n toth ev a l l ey so fI t a ly . * * * I nS ep t em b e r1934an" e l e c t ro r ad io b io lo g y "co n v en t io nw a sh e ldinV en i c e ."E l e c t ro r ad io b io lo g y " i sas c i en c eth a tdo e sno tex i s t .I tw a sin v en t e db yaq u a ckd o c to rw h oh a dd i s co v e r edc e r t a inm y th i c a lg en e t i cr ay s .Th e s er ay sp r op e r lyd i s app e a r e daf ewy e a r sl a t e r .F r an coR a s e t t ih a sw r i t t e nac r i t i c a lan d v e ryh um o rou sa r t i c l eonth esub j e c tinth eI t a l i a nE n cy c lo p e d i a . B u tth equ a ckdo c to rh adim p r e s s edth eF a s c i s tg o v e rnm en t ,an dw a sg iv enfu n d stoo rg an i z ea n in t e rn a t io n a lcon f e r e n c eing r ands ty l e ,com p l e t ew i t hr e c ep t io n s ,l ig h t so nth eG r an dC an a l ,an do th e r to u r i s ta t t r a c t ion s .F ewp eop l ec a nr e f u s eanin v i t a t i o nto V en i c einS ep t em b e r .S oth eb e s tn am e sin p h y s i c sa n db i o log yc am ef roma l lov e rth ew o r ld . I fIr em em b e rco r r e c t ly ,th i sw a st h ep i t i fu lo c c a s i o nw h enIs awp o o rF e rm ig iv eth ein au g u r a l ad d r e s sint h epub l i cg a rd e n s .H ew a sd r e s s edinem b ro id e r e da c ad em i cr eg a l i a ,com p l e t ew i thd ag g e ran d co ck edh a t .H es toodinf ro n to fas t a tu eo fH i sM a j e s t yV i c t o rEmm an u e lI I Is e a t edo nath ro n e . I nsp i t eo fth e s eun fo r tun a t ein c id e n t sIf e l tl ik eIw a sw a lk in go nc lo u dn in e ,o rl iv in gfo raw e eko n Mo u n tO lym pu s .Ifoundm y s e l fam ongf am o u ss c i en t i s t sw h o s en am e sIk n ewo n lyf romb o o k so rjo u rn a l s , m anyo fth emw e r eN ob e ll au r e a t e s . A n dth es eg od sf r om Moun tO lym p u sb eh av eds im p lyan dn a tu r a l lyinp r iv a t e !I nth eev en in gF e rm i r em o v edh i sun i f o rmandjo in edth ey oun gp eo p l ea tth eL id o .Ir em em b e rh ima tas t a l la tth ef a i r ,in t en to n 48 th row in gr ing sov e rth en e cko fsom ebo t t l e s .M ay b em yg r e a t e s tt r ium p hw a st of in dm y s e l finth es am e g o n d o l aa sA .H .C om p ton .I nm ypoo rE n g l i sh ,I m an ag edtoin t ro d u c em y s e l fa n dtoco n v eytoh imth a tI h add o n esom eexp e r im en t sw i thc o sm i cr ay s .H es a i dh eh adr e a dab o u tth emint h eP h y s i ca lR e v i ew. O nth i s ,ands im i l a ro c c a s ion s ,Ir e a l i z edth a tt h em o r eap e r so nh a sd o n e ,th el e s sh eg lo a t s. Th e n o b o d i e san dth em ed io c r i t i e sh av etoa c ta lo o ftoim p r e s so th e r sw i t hth e i row nim p o r t an c e .F e rm is a id , "S o an d soh a stos howo f fw h i l eh ei sa l iv e ,b e c au s en o b o d yw i l lr em em b e rh ima f t e rh ei sd ea d . "B u t F e rm iw a sw ro ng :th a tp e r son w a sw rongtog lo a tw h i l eh ew a sa l iv e;ev ena f t e rh i sd e a thn o o n ew o u l d r em em b e rh im ! A s i d ef rom th el a cko fp r e t en s ion ,I w a sim p r e s s edb yan o th e rch a r a c t e r i s t i co fth ew o r l do fr e a l s c i e n t i s t s : th ea b s en c eo fn a t ion a lbo r d e r s .F o rth ef i r s tt im e ,Ic am ein toco n t a c tw i tht h ei n t e rn a t i o n a l s en t im en t sth a tun i t ephy s i c i s t sf r oma l lo v e rth ew o r l d ,w i tht i e sth a ta r ewe l lb ey o n dth o s eim p o s edb ya comm o ned u c a t io nan dp r o f e s s ion a lco r r e c tn e s s . E v e ryon eh a sh e a rdt h a ts c i en c edo e sn o tr e co g n i z eb o rde r s .B u tth el e apf romb an a lp h r a s e stor e a l l i f ec am ea sasu rp r i s e .Th e s em en w e r ein t e r e s t edi nth es am ep ro b l em s ;th eyr e a so n edinth es am ew ay ; th eyh ads im i l a rt a s t e sandh ab i t s ;an dth eyk n ewen o u g hl an g u ag e stob eab l et ocomm u n i c a t ew i the a c h o th e r .M ay b eth ew o r ld ' sd ip l om a t scou ldl e a rnf romth em-b u tf i r s tth eym u s tl e a rnt or em o v eth e i r co ck edh a t s . A f t e rth e" e l e c t ror ad io b io log y "m e e t in g ,ap h i l o so p h ym e e t in gw a sh e ld i nP ad u a. Myp h i lo so p h e r f r i en d sa t t end edth a tm e e t i ng ,andp rob ab lyw e r ea se x c i t eda sIh adb e eninV en i c e .D ur in gth e s em e e t in g s as ch i smfo rm edw i thino u rg roup ,b e tw e enth ep h i lo so p h e r san dth es c i e n t i s t s . Af e e l in go fr e c ip ro c a l m i su n d e r s t and ingd ev e lop e d ,andw eb eg antod i sp a r ag ee a cho th e r ' sa t t i tu d es . I tw a sd i f f i cu l ttound e r s t and w hy m yp h i lo so p h e rf r i en d sw e r ea l lI d e a l i s t s ,an dw h yt h eya t t r ib u t ed m e an ing stow o rd sth a tcon t r ad i c t edw h a tIh adl e a rn e dinp r im a rys ch o o l .F o re x am p l e ,toth em" co n c r e t e " m e an tsom e th ingl ik eth et h ink ingsp i r i to rp u r et h o u g h t ."A b s t r a c t "r e f e r r edtot h eex t e rn a lt an gib l ew o r ld , w h i chc o u ldb es tud i edby" em p i r i c a lm e th o d s "w hi cht h eyco n s id e r e din s ig n i f i c an t . I ,n a iv e ly ,h adb e enl e f tb eh indi nth eb e l i e fth a tsom e th in g" co n c r e t e "c anb eto u ch ed ,an dsom e th in g " ab s t r a c t "c an no tb eto u ch ed .S oIh adt ro u b l ek e ep i n gu pw i thth ep h i lo so p h e r s .I nad d i t io n ,w h a tt h ey c a l l edem p i r i c i sm w a sfo rm eth eon ly w ayo fu n d e r s t an d in gan y th in g .M ay b ei tw a so n lyu n d e r s t a n d i n g , an dn o tth et ru th ,bu ti tw a sacum u l a t iv efo rmo fu n d e r s t an d in g ,w h e r ea l lfu t u r ep ro g r e s sm u s tb eb a s ed so l id lyo np r io ru nd e r s t and ing .S om eon eo n c es a idth a th eco u lds e ef a rb e c au s eh ew a sap y gm ys i t t in go n ag i an t ' ssh o u ld e r s .Th i si ssom e th ingaph i lo s o p h e rc a nn ev e rd o . Ih av en ev e rt r i e dton am em yph i lo so p h i c a lp o s i t io n .I t ' su s e l e s stoa s so c i a t eo n e s e l fw i thas ch o o lo f p h i l o so p h y ,b e c au s eth e r e' snog u a r an t e eo fs e e in gf u r th e rw h ens i t t in go nan o th e rp h i l o so p h e r ' ssh o u ld e r s . B u ti fIw e r efo r c edtoch oo s e ,Iw ou lds ayth a tIamc lo s e rtob e in gam a t e r i a l i s ta n dap o s i t iv i s t . I t ' sn o tc l e a rto m ehowo rw hya l lm yf r i en d sh a db e com eId e a l i s t s .E v enC u r i e lsa i dh eb e lo n g edt o th i ss ch o o l .S om e t im e sIthoug h tth a th em ad eth i sc l a imtou n d e rm in eth esu sp i c i o nth a th ew a sa d i a l e c t i c a lm a t e r i a l i s t . I tw o u ldb ein t e r e s t ingtos tu dy m o r ec a r e fu l lyth er e a so n sfo rth ed ev e l o pm en to fth eid e a l i s t i cs ch o o l o fth o u g h ti nI t a ly .B en ed e t toC ro c ew a sv e ryin f lu en t i a l .B yc l a im in gtob eana n t i f a s c i s t ,h eh a db e c om e p o p u l a ri nc e r t a ini n t e l l e c t u a lc i r c l e s . Am o n gth e s et h e r ew a sac e r t a ins en s eo fan t i f a s c i s tso l id a r i tyo f d u b io u sv a lu e .Th oug hanan t i f a s c i s t ,C ro c ew a sa l so aro y a l i s t .O n ag lo b a ls c a l e ,r a th e rth ananI t a l i an s c a l e ,h ew o u ldb eco n s id e r edar e a c t i on a ry .B u tinI t a l yth e s ed e t a i l sw e r eh a rdtod i s c e rn( a tl e a s tId idn o t s e eth em ) ,andIr em em b e rd r e am ingo fanI t a l i anr ep u b l i cw i t hC ro c ea sp r e s i d en t . O nt h eo th e rh and ,G en t i l ew a sth eo f f i c i a lF a s c i s tp h i lo so p h e r .N o tth a to n ec o u ldt ak eF a s c i s t p h i l o so p h ys e r i ou s ly .I t a l i anF a s c i sm,u n l ik eG e rm anNa z i sm ,n ev e rh adap h i l o s o p h yo rap ro g r am . Mu s so l in ic am etopow e r onaso c i a l i s tp l a t fo rm .B u to n c einc h a rg e ,h i so n lyp r o g r amw a sth es a t i s f a c t io n o fh i sow nam b i t ion .H i sp rog r amw a sex p r e s s e dint h ep h r a s e ,"w ea r eh e r ean dh e r ew ew i l ls t ay . " Wh a t h ed idw a sn o tim po r t an t ,a slonga sh een d u r e d . 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,DUULYHGLQWKHPRUQLQJDWDERXWQLQHDQGZDVVHHQDWDERXWQRRQ:KLOH,ZDLWHG,FRXOGQ WHYHQUHDGP\ IDYRULWH QHZVSDSHUV EHFDXVH LW GLGQ W VHHP DSSURSULDWH WR RSHQ DQ DQWLIDVFLVW SDSHU 7KH SRUWUDLWV RI 0XVVROLQLDQGWKH,WDOLDQNLQJKDQJLQJRQWKHZDOOIHOWRSSUHVVLYH7KHUHZHUHPDQ\RWKHUVZDLWLQJZLWK PH PRVWO\SRRUSHRSOHZKRKDGHPLJUDWHGIURP,WDO\IRUHFRQRPLFUHDVRQV7KHDWWHQGDQWVDQGWUHDWHG XVOLNHFDWWOHZLWKQRFRQVLGHUDWLRQIRURXUORVWWLPH )LQDOO\,UHFHLYHGQHZVWKDW,KDGEHHQJUDQWHGDGHIHUUDO,ZHQWEDFNWRWKHODEKDSS\DVFRXOG EHDQG,RIIHUHGWHDDQGFDNHWRDGR]HQSHRSOHWRFHOHEUDWHWKHHYHQW%XWQRWORQJDIWHUZDUGV,ZDVWROG WKDW LQ RUGHU WR EH JUDQWHG WKH GHIHUUDO , ZRXOG KDYH WR DFWXDOO\ DWWHQG WKH XQLYHUVLW\ ZKHUH , ZDV HQUROOHG , SURWHVWHG DQG WKLV ZDV IROORZHG E\ D ORQJ FRUUHVSRQGHQFH EHWZHHQ WKH FRQVXODWH DQG WKH 0LQLVWU\RI:DU)LQDOO\,ZDVIRUPDOO\LQVWUXFWHGWRUHWXUQWR,WDO\ ,DVNHG-ROLRWLIWKHUHZDVDQ\SRVVLELOLW\RIJHWWLQJD)UHQFKIHOORZVKLSVRWKDW,FRXOGVWD\LQ )UDQFH+HWROGPHWKDWDWWKHPRPHQWWKHUHZDVQRWKLQJDYDLODEOH,ZDVOHIWZLWKQRDOWHUQDWLYHVLQFH, ZRXOGQ WEHDEOHWRZRUNLQ)UDQFHLI,ZDVQRWLQJRRGVWDQGLQJZLWKWKH,WDOLDQJRYHUQPHQW 2QWKHHYHQLQJRI-DQXDU\,ERDUGHGDWUDLQIRU,WDO\ 66 Ch ap t e rS ix I ta l yA cqu i r e sanEmp i r e P a s s ingth r oug hth eS em p i on eTu n n e lIs a idg o o dby etof r e e d om .A tth eD om o d o s so l as t a t io n , F a s c i sma w a i tedm e .I tw e l com ed m ew i thah o r r ib l eq u a r t e rh o u r ,d u r in gw h i ch th ep a s sp o r to f f i c e r r e tu rn e dt h ep a s s po r t so fa l lt h ep a s s eng e r sin m ycom p a r tm en t ,b u tw i th h e ldm in e .H eh ad m eg e to f fth e t r a ina n de s co r t edm etoth es t a t io n ' sP ub l i cS a f e tyO f f i c e . Id idn ' tl ik eth i sbu s in e s sab i t .Iw a sa f r a idth a tsom eo fth eo p i n io n sIh adex p r e s s edsoo p en lyi n F r an c eh a dcom etoth ea t t en t iono fth eOVRA,an dt h a tin s t e ado fen d in gm yt r ipinF lo r en c e ,Iw o u lden d u pex i l edo nsom ei so l a t edi s l and .Wh i l eI w a i t ed inaro omb ym y s e l f ,Isp en tth et im eco n c en t r a t in go n p r ep a r i n gm y s e l ftob eh av eco r r e c t lyinth eev en to fa nin t e r ro g a t io n .B u tth i sw a sa l lf o rn au g h ts in c ea f t e r ab o u tah a l fhou r ,th eo f f i c e rr e tu rn edm yp a s sp o r tan dIn ev e rfo u n do u tw h ym yt r ipw a sin t e r ru p t e d . Th et r a inf i l l edup w i thso ld i e r sw h ow e r et r av e l i n gso u th . Th ey w e r en e i t h e rex c i t edn o r u n h ap p y :m o s t lyth ey w e r epoo rp e a s an t sfo rw h om m i l i t a ryl i f em ayh av ep ro v id eda nin t e r e s t in g d iv e r s i o n ;i tc e r t a in lyd idn o tm ak eth e i rs i tu a t i o nw o r s e. A s Ilook edou tth et r a inw indowtov i s u a l lyem b r a c em yn a t iv el an d,I w a ssu rp r i s edb ya n u n ex p e c t e dnov e l ty .I nth es t a t io n s ,int h etow n s ,o nh o u s e sinth ec i t i e s ,b lo ck p r in tin s c r ip t io n si nb l a ck p a in td e f a c edth ew a l l s: DUCE DUCE DUCE DUCE . . . . . .BETTERTOL IVE ONE DAY AS AL ION THANONEYEARASASHEEP . . . .DUCEDUCE . . . .BEL IEVEOBEYF IGHT . . . .DUCEDUCEDUCE . . . Ia r r iv edinF lo r en c einth eev en in g ,m ee t in gm ym o th e r ,b ych an c e ,a tth es t a t i o n .A sso o na sI a r r iv edh om eIru sh edtot h epho n etoc a l lm yf r i en d s .A f t e ranab s en c eo fo v e ray e a r ,I w an t edtos e e f am i l i a rf a c e sag a in ;I w a sanx iou stoh e a rh ow m yf r i e n d s 'o p in io n sh a dch a n g edan dtok n owth e i r in t e rp r e t a t io no fth ein t e rn a t ion a ls i tu a t io n . Myf r i end sc am e ,andth a ts am eev en in g ,t eno fth emg a th e r edino u rl iv in gro om .Iw a sex c i t e d tob eb a ck ,fu l lo fth ing st osh a r e .Ia lm o s tf e l tano b l ig a t io ntoex p l a i nt h eim p o r t an c eo fin t e rn a t io n a l so l id a r i ty ,th ei nd ig n a t iono fth er e s to fth ew o r ldab o u tth ein v a s io no fA b y s s in i a . A n dsoIt a lk ed :I tw a sas t r ang ef e e l in ga f t e ra l lth i st im etosp e ak m yn a t iv el an g u ag eag a in .A t f i r s tev enth esoundo fth ew o rd sw ass t r an g e ,an di tw a sd i f f i cu l ttop u ts en t en c e sto g e th e r ,b u tso o nth e l an g u ag ef low e df lu en t ly ,e a s i ly ,sw e e t ly ,th o u g hw i t hano c c a s io n a lF r en chtw i s t . B u tt h er e c en tc r i s e sh ad no tch an g ed m yf r i e n d s 'id e a s .G iu l i an o ,ev e r th ep h i lo F a s c i s t, ex p r e s s e dh im s e l finp a t r io t i cph r a s e s:t h eg lo ryo fI t a ly ,th er ig h ttoad ayinth esu n .H eh adcom ew i t h h i sf i an c é ,w homI m etfo rth ef i r s tt im e-anin t e l l ig en t ,y o u n gg i r lo fG e rm and e s c en tw h of u l ly u n d e r s to o dm ypo in to fv i ew .G u a l t i e ro ,a f t e rap a r en t h e t i c a lep i so d eo fan t if a s c i sman darom an c ew i th aC a th o l i cg i r l ,h adb e c om eon eh und r edp e r c e n tZ io n i s t .Th ef a t eo ft h ew o r ldin t e r e s t e dh imo n lyf r om th ep e r sp e c t iv eo fP a l e s t i n e ,andin t e rn a t io n a lso l i d a r i ty w a sfo rh imanem p typ h r a s e. H eju d g ed ev e ry th in gini t sr e l a t iont oth ee s t ab l i s hm en to fani n d ep en d en tJ ew i shs t a t ea saf i r s tp r in c ip l e .I w i l l h av eo c c a s iontos p e akabo u th iml a t e r . Myin t e rn a t i on a l i s tf e rv o r ,m yd e epan dn a iv ep a s s i o nfo rb ro th e rh o o db e tw e enp eo p l e sco l l id ed , o nth ev e ryev en ingo fm yr e tu r n ,w i tha no b s t a c l eIh adu n d e r e s t im a t ed :n a t io n a l i sm am i sg u id ed n a t io n a l i smw h i ch m e a su r e sth eg r e a t n e s so fap eo p l eb yth eex t en to ft e r r i t o ryth a ti to c cu p i e sa n dn o tb y 67 i t sa r t i s t i ca nds c i e n t i f i ca c h i ev em en t s ;an a t io n a l i sm w h i chh o ld sth a tth eco n q u e s to fd i s t an tl an d sw i l l r e l i ev em i s e ryandsu f f e r in gandno ti n ev i t a b lyr e s u l ti nth eex p l o i t a t io no fo n em anb yan o th e r . A tA r c e t r iIh adth es am ed i s a p p o i n t in gex p e r i en c e . Myf r i e n dG i lb e r to ,-n ow P ro f e s so r B e rn a rd in ia ndnolong e rm e r e lyD r .B e rn a rd in i-s a idth a th i sch i l d r e nh adar ig h ttoab e t t e rl i f eth anh i s ow nan d ,w h i l ed i s app rov ingo fc e r ta inF a s c i s tm e th o d s ,su p p o r t edth eg o v e rnm en t ' s in v o lv em en tin E th io p i aw h i chwa ssuppo s edtom ak eI t a lya sr i cha sE n g l an d .H eh o p edth eF a s c i s ta rm yw o u ldp r ev a i l , an dh eco u ldn o tund e r s t a nd( andint h i sh ew a sc o r r e c t )w h a tr ig h tth eB r i t i shEm p i r eh adtoo p p o s e F a s c i s tex p an s ion i sm .Th ephy s i c i s t sf romA r c e t r io n c ec am et om yh o u s efo rlu n ch ,a n di tw a so n ly m y s en s eo fh o sp i t a l i tyth a tp r e v en t edth i sm e e t in gam o n gf r i en d sf r ome ru p t in gin toav io l en ta rg um en t . W i th ou tado ub tth ew a rh adin c r e a s e dn a t io n a l i s ts e n t im en ta n dr ed u c edt h ee n th u s i a smo fi t s o p p o n en t s .M u s so l i n ih a dc a r r i e dou th i sp l an .H ew a sab l e ,o n c eag a in ,tof u l f i l lth eo n lyp l an ko fh i s p ro g r amth a th en ev e rb e t r a y ed :toen du r e . Wh a tdo e st h es p i l l ingo fi nno c en tb lo o dm a t t e r ,w h a td or i f t sb e tw e enp eo p l em a t t e r ,com p a r ed tot h eo n efund am en t a li s s u e :r em a in inginp ow e r ?Th eg o v e rnm en tco f f e r sw e r eem p ty ,an dth eo n lyw ay tos av eth er eg im e ,d em and ingev eng r e a t e rs a c r i f i c e sf romth ep eo p l e ,w a stog otow a r.A n dsoi tw a saw a rfo ranem p i r ew i thou tr e so u r c e s ;byw h i chth eF a s c i s tg o v e rnm en tin cu r r edsu chsh am einth eey e s o fth ein t e rn a t ion a lcomm un i tyt h a ti t sa l l i e sco u ldn olo n g e ro p en lysu p p o r ti t ;a w a rw h i chr e su l t edin th ec r e a t io no fanem p i r ea ndindu ecou r s e ,th esu bm i s s io no fth em o th e rco u n t rytoth eg row in gth r e a to f N a z ip ow e r ;aw a rhow ev e r ,w h i chw ou lde n ab l eM u s s o l in ian dh i sc l iq u et os t ayi np ow e r . Th epoo rp e a s an t sandth eun em p lo y edl e f tfo rw a rv o lu n t a r ily .M i s e ryi sr e s p o n s ib l efo rm any c r im e s ,a n dh ung ry p eop l esho u ld no tb eb l am ed .T h eA b y s s in i an w a rw a sp r e s en t eda sane a sy en t e rp r i s e ,an dp ro sp e c t iv ev o lun t e e r sw e r elu r edw i thp h o to g r ap h so fb l a ckw om enw i thb r e a s t sb a r edto th ew i n d .I t a lys ang : L i t t l eb l a ckf a c e L ov e lyA by s s in i ang i r l Aw a i ta ndhop ea sth ehou rd r aw sn e a r Wh enw ew i l lb en e a ry ou W e ' l ls ingth ep r a i s e so fou rD u c ean do u rK in g . B u tu n d e rth e i rb r e a th ,inh i dd enco rn e r s ,o th e r sg a th e r edtos in gth es am eso n gw i thd i f f e r en tw o rd s : B l a cksh i r t A s s a s s in s 'f a c e W a i t ,w a i t ,a sth eho u rd r aw sn e a r . Wh enw ew i l lb en e a ry ou W e ' l lb lowaw ayth eD u c ean dth eK in gto o . M ap so fA by s s in i aw e r ep o s t edev e ryw h e r e ,an dev e r y o n el i s t en e dp a s s io n a t e lyt oth er ad i o .B u t int h ec row d sw h i chg a th e r edinf ron to fth em ap san da ro u n dth elo u d sp e ak e r s ,t h e r ew e r ea lw ay sth o s e w h oh o p edfo rd e f e a tin s t e ado fv i c to ry :"Th i st im eth ey ' l lb r e akth e i rn e ck s !.. "A n dthe s ep e o p l ew o u l d s t r ik eu pac onv e r s a t i on w i thano t h e rS om eb o d y ,in s t i l l in gd o u b t s :"B u tev eni fw ew in ,w h os ay sth a t A b y s s in i ai sr i ch ? "" I fth eE ng l i shl e f t ,i tm u s tb ew o r th l e s s . "" I tw o u ldh av em ad em o r es en s etob u i ld b a th tu b sr a t h e rth anc anno n s . ""W eh av eh adE r i t r e aan dS om a l i afo r5 0y e a r s ,an dth eyh av eco s tu s n o th in gb u tb looda ndm on ey ,w i thou tanyr e tu rn . ""T h ew h o l ew o r ldi sag a in s tu s ..." Toth o s ew hos a idth a td e f e a tm e antth ed e a tho fo u rb o y sinE a s tA f r i c a ,t h ean sw e rw a s ,i fth e sp e ak e rw a stob et ru s t ed ,th a tad e f e a tfo rF a s c i smn ow w o u lds av ein n um e r ab l el iv e san din c a l cu l ab l e su f f e r in gl a t e r . Ir em em b e rd i s c u s s ingth es i tu a t io no n ed ayin V en i c ew i thE u g en ioC u r i e lan dan o t h e rf r i en d . A tth et im e ,s an c t ion ss e em ed l ik ear e a lp o s s ib i l i ty :w eex p e c t e dano i lem b a r g oan dth ec lo s in go fth e S u e zC an a l .E x c i t edbyth ep ro sp e c t ,w eco u n t e dth ed ay su nt i lth een do fF a s c i smina m a t t e ro fm o n th s , 68 o rr a th e r ,w e ek s .O nt h eM ak a léf ron tth in g sw e r en o tg o in gto ow e l l ." B l a cksh i r t ,A s s a s s in s 'f a c e !"... Af ew m o n th s ,af ew w e e k s ,andth enth er ev o lu t i o n ,th eb a r r i c ad e s .Th eI t a l i a np eo p l ew o u ldl i b e r a t e th em s e lv e sw i tht h esu ppo r tandsym p a th yo fth ep eo p l e so fth ew o r l d .A n da f t e rt h er ev o lu t i o n... A f t e rth er ev o lu t ion...ag o ld enag e .B ro th e rh o o d ,ju s t i c e ,b r e adan ded u c a t io nfo rev e ry o n e . "A f t e rth er ev o lu t ion "l i f ew a sop entoev e ryh o p e .A tth em e r et h o u g h to fth i sh e ro i can db l e s s edag e ,th e ey e so fr ev o lu t ion a r i e ssho n e ,l ik eth eey e so fex i l e sa tth eth o u g h to fth e i rd i s t a n th om e l an d ,l ik eth eey e s o fch i ld r eninf ron to fap a s t ryshopw i ndow . B u tth es an c t i on song a so l in en ev e rc am e ,th eS u e zC an a ln ev e rc lo s edan d ,o nth em ap so f A b y s s in i ap o s t edint h es h op w indow s ,al o n gr edl in e sh ow edth ead v an c eo fG r a z i an if romS om a l i ato N eg h e l l i .T h a tl in ecu tin toou rf l e sh ,l e av in gat r a i lo fb lo o dan dw o u n d edd r e am s . * * * A f t e rasho r ts t ayinF lo r en c eIw en tb a cktoP ad u at or e tu rnt om yw o rka sana s s i s t an tp ro f e s s o r . My m o s tim po r t an ta s s ig nm en tth a ty e a rw a stoo v e r s e eth eco n s t ru c t i o no fan ewP h y s i c sI n s t i tu t e .T he g ov e rnm en th ade s t ab l i sh e dal a rg efundfo rex p a n d i n gth eU n iv e r s i tyo fP ad u a,an dth eb u i ld in g sp l an s in c lu d edan ewP hy s i c sI n s t i tu t e .Th epu r p o s eo fth ec o n s t ru c t io n ,inth em in do fth eau t h o r i t i e s ,w a sto c r e a t ea"S h ow p i e c eo fth eR eg im e , "ino th e rw o rd sa m o n um en ttot h eF a s c i s tg o v e rnm en t .R o s s it r i ed , an ds u c c e ed ed ,i nm akingaphy s i c sl abo r a to ry ,an da c tu a l ly ,i tw a so n eo fth em o s tb e au t i fu ll ab sIh a d ev e rs e en .H er e j e c t e da l lt h ea r ch i t e c t s 'p l an s ,an dd e s ig n edth eb u i ld in gh im s e l f ,in c lu d in gth ed e t a i l sfo r in s t a l l i n ga l lth et e chn i c a ls y s t em s . Th eI n s t i tu t eh adabou t100room s ,s en s ib lyl a ido u tan dw e l leq u ip p e dfo rr e s e a r c han dt e a ch in g . Th e r ew a sal a rg el e c tu r eh a l l ,p l en tyo fo f f i c es p a c e ,al a rg ero omfo rh ig hv o l t ag eex p e r im en t sa n da tow e rfo rr e s e a r chonco sm i cr ay s .If r eq u en t ly w e n ttoth eco n s t ru c t io ns i t etoo v e r s e eth ew o rk , ex p l a in in gw h e r eth ep lum b ingand w i r in gw en t ,m ak in gsu r eth a tth ew in d ow sc lo s ed ,an dth a tth e m a ch in e ryw a sin s t a l l edw i tha l ldu ec a r e .A l lr e s e a r c hinth eo ldl a bw a ssu sp en d edsoa st od ev o t efu l l a t t en t io ntoth ec on s t ru c t io no ft h en ewI n s t i tu t ew h i c hh e ldsu chg r e a tp rom i s e . Il iv eda tth eC en t en n a r ioH o t e lu n t i ls umm e rv a c a t i o nth a ty e a r .A lm o s ta l lth eg u e s t sa tth eh o t e l w e r es tu d e n t s .I tw a sm od e rn ,c l e anandr e a so n ab lycom fo r t ab l e .Ia t em ym e a l sa tth eh o t e linth em ix ed com p an yo fbo theng in e e r i ngandph i lo so p h ys tu d en t s .C u r i e lw a sth eg o b e tw e e nfo rth etw og ro u p s .H e w a ss t i l lana s s i s t an tinr a t ion a lm e ch an i c sb u th ed e v o t eda llh i st im ean den e r g ytop h i lo so p h y .Th e r e w e r ea lw ay sph i lo s oph i c a li d e a l i s t sa tou rt ab l e . W espok eo fm anyth ing sb u tw ea lw ay sav o id e dp o l i t i c so u to fr e sp e c tfo ras tu d e n tw h oa t ew i t h u sb u tw h o su f f e r edg r e a t l ya th e a r ingo u rh a r shc r i t i c i smo fF as c i sm .H ew a saco u n tf r omF r iu l i ,a w o n d e r fu lk id ,r e a son ab lyin t e l l ig en t ,s en s i t iv ean df r i en d ly .H e ,l ik eev e ry b o d ye l s e ,w a saw a r eo fo u r o p in io n s ,o fw h i chh ed i s ap p rov edd e ep ly .B u ti tn ev e rc ro s s edm ym in dth a th em ig h td en o u n c eo rb e t r ay u s-d en u n c i a t io nand b e t r ay a lm ig h th ap p enin G e rm an y ,b u tinI t a lyth e s et h in g sw e r el e f tto p ro f e s s io n a l s .Th et r ad eo fspy ing w a ssod e s p i s edth a tam a t eu r sw e r einsh o r tsu p p ly .I faf ewt im e sI w a sa f r a idt h a tIh adspok e ntooo p en ly ,e a cht im em yf e a r sp ro v edu n fo u n d ed . O n eev en ing ,fo rin s t an c e ,G i an c a r l oF a c c a ,as tu d e n to fn a tu r a ls c i e n c e s ,c am et om yro om .H e w a say o u n gm anf romF r iu l i ,v e ryin t e l l ig en t ,w i thb l a t an t lyso c i a l i s tt e n d en c i e s ,b u to n eo fth o s ew h o su p p o r t edth epo l i t i c so fc o l l abo r a t ion w i t hF a s c i sm .H eh adap o s i t io ninth e GUFan dh ef r eq u en t ly sh ow edu pa tt h e i rm e e t in g s .H eh adv o lu n t e e r edf o rs e rv i c einE a s tA f r i c aw h i l eI w a sinF r an c e ,b u t r e tu rn e db e f o r eth ee ndo ft h ew a rt ot ak eex am s .H es p o k einalo u d ly ,ev enb ru t a l ly ,sm o k edap ip ean d d r e s s edc a r e l e s s ly . H elook edal i t t l el ik eac o lon i a lv e t e r a n ,b u tth e r ew a ssom e th i n gab o u th imth a ti n sp i r e dt ru s t . H i sey e sw e r eco lda si c e .A sIw a ss ay in g ,o n eev en i n gh ec am eto m yro oman dw eb eg antot a lk .W e t a lk edo fp o l i t i c s ,so c i a l i sm...a tf i r s tIw a sab i tr e t i c en t ,k n ow in gh i sp a s t ,b u ta f t e rh eh im s e l fm ad e som er ad i c a ls t a t em en t s ,w i th w h i chIto t a l lyag r e ed ,Ico u ld n ' tr e s i s tt e l l in gh ima l lm yid e a sr ev o lu t io n ,so c i a lju s t i c e ,th ea rm edov e r th rowo fth eg o v e rnm en t .Att h ew o rdr e v o lu t io nt h o s eco ldey e s f l a sh ed ,w i t hon eo ftho s ef l a sh e sth a tb e t r ay sn o th in g .Ia sk edh imw hyh ew en tt oA f r i c a .H es a idth a th e 69 co n s i d e r edi tana c to fso l i d a r i tyw i thth een l i s t ed m en ,n o tana c to flo y a l tytot h eg o v e rnm en t .Th in k in g b a cko nth i sconv e r s a t iont h en ex td ay ,Iw o r r i edw h e t h e rIh adsp o k ento of r e e ly .B u tn o th in gh ap p en ed ; m yt ru s tw a sno tm i sp l a c ed . A n o th e rt im e ,p e rh ap say e a rl a t e r ,Ih adalo n gco n v e r s a t io nw i thth eS e c r e t a r yo fth eC u l tu r a l C omm i t t e eo ft h e GUF .H ew a sas l im yy o u ng m an-th ek in dw h oh a sal im ph an d s h ak e, w h on ev e r a c tu a l lyt ak e sy ou rh and .H eh adf l a tf e e tan ds ty l edh im s e l fanid e a l i s t i cp h i lo s o p h e r...Ith o u g h th ew a s som ew h a td i sg u s t ing .H eh adanun c tuou sa i r ,w i t hab i to fac l e r i c a lb en t .B u to c c a s io n a l lyh eh adac r i s i s o fco n s c i en c e ,andan e edf o rs e l f c r i t i c i sml ik eac h a r a c t e rinaR u s s i ann o v e l . Ih app en edtoru nin toh imon eev en in gw h enh ew a sino n eo ft h e s em oo d san dI w a s m om en t a r i lyt ak eni nbyh im .Is a tw i thh iman dl i s t e n eda saf e l lowh um anb e in g ,an dinr e tu rnIsp o k eto h imo p en ly ,m anto m an .Ito ldh iminnou n c e r t a int e rm sth a th eu su a l ly m ad em es i ck ,th a th i sp o l i t i c a l a c t iv i t i e sw e r eimm o r a l ,a ndth a tId idn o tk n owh owtor e co n c i l eh i sp o l i t i c a lth eo r i e s( inr e f e r en c eto C ro c e ' sp o s i t iont ow a rd sF a s c i sm) .H el i s t en ed ,m ak in gth em o s to fth i so p p o r tu n i tytob e a th i sc h e s tan d co n f e s sh i ss in s ,an dth a tw a sth eendo fi t .W en ev e rg o tan yc lo s e ra sar e su l to fth i sex p e r i en c e ,b u tI 'm su r eth a th ed id n ' tabu s em ycon f id en c etob e t t e rh i sp o l i t i c a lp o s i t io n . Ir em em b e ranin t e r e s t ingc onv e r s a t io nw i thay o u n gm anw h oh adr e c e n t lyg r ad u a t edinp h y s i c s , th eso no fo n eo fth eow n e r so red i to r so fV en i c e ' sd a i l yn ew sp ap e r ,I lG a z z e t t in o . H eg av em ein t e r e s t in g in s ig h t so nhowth eg ov e rnm en tcon t ro l l edth eI t a l i a np r e s s .I nF a s c i s tI t a lyth e r ew a sn oc en s o r s h i p ; co n t ro lw a sex e r c i s edind i r e c t lyandbyp ro a c t iv e ly .I nth ee a r lyy e a r so fth er eg im er e p o r t e r sw h ow e r e n o tsu f f i c i en t lyr e sp e c t fu lt ow a rd st h er eg im ew e r efo r c edtod r in kc a s to ro i l ;n ew sp ap e r sth a tw e r en o t o p en lyF a s c i s tw e r er an s a ck edo rbu r n ed. B u ta st im ew en to n ,v io l en c ew a sn olo n g e rn e c e s s a ry . Th e o r e t i c a l lyth e r ew a sf r e edomo fthep r e s s ,b u tp ru d en c ed i c t a t edth a tth eed i t o r so fsu rv iv in g n ew sp ap e r ss t i ckc l o s etoth ep a r tyl in e .A n dth ep a r ty ,ini t sg o o d n e s s ,h e lp e dth eminth e i rn e edb y su p p ly in gd a i lyin s t r u c t ion sonth el ay ou to fth ep ap e r :P ag eO n e :Th eD u c eV i s i t sL i t to r i a :f iv eco lum n h e ad l in ew i thpho tog r aph ;P ag eTw o :Th eK in gV i s i t saH o sp i t a l ,th r e ec o lum n s ;N ew sab o u tt h en ewt a x in c r e a s eo nth el a s tp ag e ,onth eb o t tom . Th u s ,e a ched i t o rb e c am eh i sow nc en so r .Th er ep o r t e rd idn o th in gm o r eth anf i l lth ea s s ig n ed co l um n sw i thcomm onp ro p ag and aandad u l a t io nfo rth er eg im e ,fo l l ow in gd i r e c t iv e sf romab o v e-an d inth eab s en c eo fsp e c i f i ci n s t r u c t ion s ,h ein v en t edth em .S oa sn o ttoen d an g e rh im s e l f ,th er ep o r t e rd i d h i sb e s ttoex ag g e r a t eh i sp r a i s e sr a th e rth anru nth er i sko fap p e a r in gto oc o ld ;t h i sp ro c e s sh adn ol im i t b ey o n dth eop in ion so fth er ep o r t e randt h ep o l i t i c a lau th o r i t i e s ,a sto w h e r ei tc ro s s edth el in ei n toth e r e a lmo fth er id i cu lou s ;an ding en e r a l ,th el im i t so fth er id i cu lo u sfo rap a ids h i l lo rab u r e au c r a ti na b l a cksh i r tw e r ef a rb ey ondtho s eo fth ecomm o nm o r t a l . B u tf romth e s ep ap e r s ,a sf romp ap e r sa l lo v e rth ew o r ld,i tw a sp o s s ib l etof in dn ew s .P eo p l e co u ldr e a cht h e i row ncon c lu s ion s .Iw ou ldev ens ayt h a t ,k n ow in gth ejo u r n a l i s t ' sw r i t in gs ty l e ,an dt h e t e ch n iq u e su s edtoc on t ro lt h em ed i a ,on eco u ldd e d u c em anyth in g sth a tw e r en o tex p l i c i t lys t a t ed .S om e o fth ed a i l i e sh adfo r e ig nco r r e spond en t sw h ow ro t ef a i r lyc l e a r ly .C o lum n i s t ssom e t im e sr ep o r t ed ex t en s iv e lyonth eop in ion so foppon e n t so fF a s c i sm,t ak in gc a r etoi n t ro d u c eth er em a rk sw i thanin su l t d i r e c t eda tth ep e r so nb e i n gc i t ed ,andc o n c lu d i n gw i thap e r s o n a ls t a t em en to fd i s ap p ro v a l .Isom e t im e s w o n d e r e di fth i sp r a c t i c ew a sac on s c iou sa t t em p ttok e epI t a l i ansin fo rm ed ,d e s p i t eco n t ro lo fth ep r e s s . W e ek lyn ew sp ap e r sw e r en o tanI t a l i ant r ad i t io n ,ex c e p tinth ef o rmo fD om en i cad e lC o r r i e r e,o r i t slo o k a l ik e s ,w h i c hc a t e r edtoth el e s sed u c a t edint e r r i b l et a s t e-s tu p idp ap e r sl ik em o s to fth efu n n i e s o rl ik eN ewY o rk ' sD a i l yN ew s . S a t i r i c a lpo l i t i c a lp ap e r sw e r efo ra l lp r a c t i c a lp u rp o s e sd e s t r o y edb yF a s c i smw h i chd idn o ta l low p o l i t i c a ls a t i r e .I ni t sp l a c e ,an ewk indo fh um o ra ro s ew h i chIn ev e rap p r e c i a t ed ,b u tw h i chw a sp o p u l a r am o ng m any ,ev enp eop l eo fc on s id e r ab l ein t e l l ig en c ean dg o o dt a s t e .I tw a sah um o rcom p l e t e lyd ev o id o flo g i can do f t enb a s edo nem p typ l ay so nw o rd s .I tc an ' tb ed en i edth a tn ew s p a p e r sco n t a i n in gth i sk in d o fh um o r ,l ik eMa r c 'A u r e l io andB e r to ld o,h adal a rg ec i r cu l a t io nan dp o p u l a r i ty .B u tin m yo p in io nth i s su c c e s sw a sar e su l to fak indo fd e c a d en c ea t t r ib u t ab l etoF a s c i sm. N olo n g e ra b l et ol a u g ha tw h a ti s h ap p en in gands in c e ,e sp e c i a l lyinh a rdt im e s ,l au g ho n em u s t ,w ea r er e d u c edtol au g h in gem p ty w o rd p l ay ,g iv enth a tsu b s t a n c ei sfo rb idd en . 70 C o l l eg ep ap e r s ,w h i chI w i l lw r i t e ab o u tl a t e r ,en jo y ed m u ch m o r ef r e ed om .I nth el a s ty e a r so f m ys t ayinI t a ly ,ar a th e rg ood w e ek lyc am eo u tw h i chr em in d ed m eo ftho s einF r an c e .I nth i sp ap e r w h o s en am eIdon ' tr e c a l l ,If r eq u en t lys en s eds om ean t i f a s c i s tu n d e r to n e s ,d e f t lyc am o u f l ag ed . * * * M e anw h i l e,th ew a rr ag edonin A b y s s in i au n t i lf in a l lyF a s c i s tt ro o p se n t e r ed A d d i sA b ab a . Mu s so l in ig a th e r edth eI t a l i anp eop l eonev e ryp i a z z ainI t a lytop ro c l a imth ead v en to fth eEm p i r eo v e r lo u d s p e ak e r s . E v e ry on ew a ssumm on edtoh e a rth ew o rd so fth eD u c e .P a r ty m em b e r sh adr e c e n t lyb e eni s su e d n ewu n i fo rm so fafun e r e a l ,S a rd in i anf a b r i c .Th ei n s t ru c to r san da s s i s t an t sa tt h eU n iv e r s i tyo fP ad u a w e r ein s t ru c t edtoa s s em b l ea tth eU n iv e r s i tyg a t e .F e a r in garo l lc a l l,Iw en ttof in do u tw h a tth es i tu a t io n w a s.O fco u r s e ,Iw a sou to fun i f o rm .I nth em id s to ft h i sc r ow do fp eo p l eo fm yow nn a t io n ,If e l tl ik ea fo r e ig n e r ,i fno tane n em y .Is aw m yp ro f e s so r ,som eo fth eo t h e rin s t ru c to r san dt h et e ch n i c i an sf r omth e l ab ,a l linth e i rn ewsom b e rb l a ckun i fo rm s ;Ico u ldo n l yp i tyth em . B u tIa l sos awth ec row d so fh a rdw o rk in gp eo p l e ,g o o dp eo p l ed r e s s edinin ex p en s iv ec lo th e s , y o u n gan do ld ,w om enandch i ld r e n ,a l le l a t edth a tth ew a rw a so v e r ,p ro u do ft h e i rv i c t o ry ,p ro u do fth e i r Em p i r e ,w h i c h ,s adbu rd en ,w a sb e i ngtu rn edo v e rt oth emth ro u g hth elo u d sp e ak e r s .A l lth i ss ad d en ed m ed e ep ly ;If e l ta lo n einth em id s to fth i sc r ow d ,m yh e a r to u to fs t epw i thth e i r s ,in d e e do u to fs t epw i th th eh e a r to fm yow ncoun t r y .If e l td i s i l lu s io n edb ym yid e a l s ,a sth o u g ha l lm yd r e am sh adf a i l ed .Ico u ld n o ts h ak eth e s ef e e l ing s ,an d ,b e f o r eth es p e e c h e sb eg a n ,Iw i th d r ewh u r r i ed lytom yro om .Ev enth e r eth e s o u n d sf romth eloud sp e ak e r sr e a ch edm ye a r s. Ih adn ev e rb e ensod i s cou r ag edb yap o l i t i c a lev en t . Myid e a sh adsu f f e r edw o r s ed e f e a t s ,b u ta d e f e a tin f l i c t edbyak nownadv e r s a ryi sl e s sd i sh e a r t en in gth anb e in gcu to f ff r omth o s einw h o s en am e y o uh av es t rug g l e d :th ep e op l eo fon e ' sow nco u n t ry .If e l tr e j e c t edb yth es in g l een e rg i z in gp r in c ip l ein w h i chIh adp l a c edev e ryh op e :th em a s s e s ,th eg o o d ,comm o n ,ev e ry d ay ,co u r ag eo u sp eo p l e ! A f t e raf ews add ay s ,Ithoug h tth a tp e rh ap sIh adb e en m i s t ak en . May b eF a s c i smh adr e a l ly fo u g h tfo rth eg oodo fth ecoun t ry ,m ay b eth eEm p i r ew a sth ecu r efo rI t a ly ' si l l s ,a f t e ra l l . Wh enIf i r s t m e tG i an c a r loF a c c a ,th en a tu r a l i s tw i thth eco ldey e s ,Ito ldh im m ym i sg iv in g s .Ito ldh imth a tIr e a l i z ed th a tF a s c i smnowh adt r em endou spopu l a rsu p p o r tan dth a ti tco u ldd oa lm o s tan y th in g . Mu s so l in icou ldn ow m ov etow a rdar e a s o n ab l ep o l i t i c a lp ro g r am ,r en o u n c ea l lfu r th e rm i l i t a ry c am p a ig n s ,w o rkp e a c e fu l l ytod ev e lopt h eco n q u e r edt e r r i to r i e sw i th o u to p p r e s s i n gth en a t iv ep eo p l e ,cu t h i st i e sw i thth ec ap i t a l i s t sandr e a c t ion a r i e s ;h eco u ldr e tu r ntoth eso c i a l i s tp l a t fo rm w h i chh eh ad o r ig in a l lye s pou s e dinh i sy ou th .I fh ew an t edto ,h esu r e lyco u ldd oi t ;an dinth a tc a s e ,Ito l dm yf r i en d ,I w o u ldb ew i l l i ngtoco l l a bo r a t e ,todoev e ry th in ginm yp ow e rtoh e lph im . H elook eda tm er a th e rqu i z z i c a l ly .H ew a sb e t t e ra cq u a in t edw i thth ein n e rw o rk in g so fth ep a r ty th anI w a s .H eto l dm e :"D on ' tg e ty ou rh o p e su p .Th e r e ' sno th in gtob ed o n e .Y o uh av en oid e ah ow co r r u p tth in g sh av eb e com e . " A n dth efu tu r ep rov edh imco r r e c t . Af ew m o n th sl a t e r,th eS p an i shC iv i lW a rb eg an .A n dth e I t a l i an s ,r e cov e r ingf romth ep a s s ingth eex c i t em en to fb e com in ganEm p i r e ,d i s ap p o in t eda ts e e in gth e lo n g ed fo rp e a c ev an i sha l ong w i thth er i ch e st h eyh add r e am edo f ,r e tu rn edtoth e i rw i s eo lds a t i r i c a l fo rmo fh um o r :"B e fo r eth eEm p i r eanI t a l i anc i t i z enr e s id in ginth em o n a r ch yw a sc a l l edr e g n i co lo ;n ow h ei sc a l l e dim p e r i co l o . "[p l ayonw o rd s ;im p o s s ib l etot r an s l a t e ] Th eo n lyg oodn ew sa tth et im ec am ef romF r an c ew i thth ev i c to ryo fth eP o p u l a rF ro n ti n th ee l e c t io n s .O n esp r ingS und ayIw en ttoF l o r e n c efo ro n eo fm yr eg u l a rv i s i t sw i th m ym o th e r .E u g en io C u r i e lc am ew i thm e .Th a tev en ingw etu rn edo nth er a d iotog e tth en ew so fth ee l e c t io n sinF r a n c e .P a r i s P .T .T .w a sb ro ad c a s t ingth er e su l t s .I tw a sat ru ev i c t o ry . Th ep a r t i e so fth el e f tr ep o r t edh av in gm an y e l e c t edc an d id a t e sanda lm o s tev e ryw h e r eth eyl e adt h eb a l lo t in g ."M r .S o an dso ,S .F . I .O . ,e l e c t ed ;M r . S oan d so ,C omm un i s t ,e l e c t e d ;M r .S o an d so ,R ad i c a lS o c i a l i s t ,e l e c t ed . "Th efo l low in gS u n d ay ,th e r e su l t sw e r econ f i rm ed .W eboug h tL eT em p s, w h i c hh adacom p l e t el i s t i n go fth ee l e c t io nr e su l t s ,an d sp r e adi to u tonat ab l ea tth ec a f ew i thou ta t t em p t in gtoh id eo u rd e l ig h t . 71 * * * Myp r iv a t el i f ec on t inu e dun tou c h edb yth e s ein c id en t s .Isp en tm o s to fm yt im einth el ab ,an d r e l ax edb ych a t t ing w i thf r i end sd u r ing m e a l san dinth eev en in g s . Myf r i en d sa n dI w e r eac lo s e k n i t g ro u p ;w ed i s cu s s e dav a r i e tyo ftop i c s ,o rch a t t edab o u tn o th in ginp a r t i c u l a r .W ef r eq u en t edth es t u d en t c a f e so fP a d u aandsom e t im e sw en tou ttos e eas h ow .U su a l lyw ew en ttoth em o v i e sa si tw a sd i f f i cu l ta t th a tt im einI t a ly ,andinP a du asp e c i f i c a l ly ,tos e eg o o dth e a t e r .O nS u n d ay sIw en ttoF lo r en c eo rV en i c e . I nth el abth e r ew e r es t i l lth es am eem p lo y e e s ,a l o o fan dm u s ty .Th e r ew e r e ,h ow ev e raf ew y o u n g e rp eo p l ew i th w homIg o ta long . Am o n gth e s ew a sA r tu roL o r i a ,ay o u n gn a t iv eo fP ad u a, w h o h adr e c en t lyg r adu a t e d ,an dw hod i s ap p e a r edev e ryo n c eina w h i l efo raf ew m o n th stod oh i sm i l i t a ry s e rv i c ea sano f f i c e rinana r t i l l e ryun i t .H ew a sa w o n d e r fu ly o u n gm anan dw eb e c am eth eb e s to f f r i en d s .H i sex t r a o rd in a ryin t e l l ig en c ew a sn o to b v io u sa tf i r s t .H ew a sq u i e t ,w i th o u tb e in gt im id ,an d v e rys en s i t iv e .H elov edtow o rk ,bu tno tto om u ch ,an do f t enn e ed e dsom eo n etop ro v id een c o u r ag em en t tos e eh i sp ro j e c t sth roug h . L o r i a ,P e r s an o( ano t h e ry oungin s t ru c to rw h oh a dr e c en t lycom ef romF lo r e n c e )an dI m ad ea th r e e som einth el a bw h e r eI w a sth eun o f f i c i a ls c i e n t i f i cd i r e c to r ,a sw e l la s ,I m ig h tev ens ay ,e t h i c a l d i r e c to r ,int h es en s eth a tIh adac e r t a ini n f lu en c eo v e rth em . I nth eU n iv e r s i tyl ib r a ry ,d u r ingt h een t i r ey e a r ,w a sag i r lw h ow a sw r i t in gh e rd i s s e r t a t io n .S h e h ada r r iv edth ey e a rb e fo r e ,p r e c ed edbyar e p u t a t io no fg r e a tin t e l l ig en c e ,an de x t r ao r d in a ryp e r fo rm an c e o nh e re x am s .S h ew a sw r i t ingad i s s e r t a t io no nch em i s t ryan d ,p o o rth in g ,sh esp en th e rd ay sc a l cu l a t in g m o l e cu l a ro rb i t sonac a l c u l a to r . Sh ew a sth ed au g h t e ro fanen g in e e r. A t t r a c t i v e ,b lo n d ,t a l l ,an ds l im , h e rb e a r in gr ev e a l e dh e ru pp e rc l a s sb a ck g ro u n d .S h ed r e s s ede l eg an t lyan ding o o dt a s t e ,u s edag o o d p e r f um ean dm ak e up-al i t t l etoom u chfo rm yt a s t e ,b u tsh eu s edi tw e l l . S p end i nga w ho l ey e a rc a l cu l a t i n gm o l e cu l e so nac a l cu l a t o rw o u ldb een o u g htod e p r e s san y p e r so nw i th a m in im umo fen e rg yandim ag in a t io n .I nf a c ti tb e c am eo b v io u st h a tth i sa c t iv i ty w a sn o t g o o dfo rth i sp a r t i cu l a rg i r l(w homIw i l lc a l lM a r in a ) .If e l ts i n c e r e lys o r ryf o rh e r .Th i sg i r lo fab o u t2 1 , w h ow a su s edtos tudy ingl i t t l eanddo ingb r i l l i an t lyo nh e rex am s ,w a sw a s t edo nth a tk in do fw o rk .I t w a sash am eth a tap r e t tyg i r ll ik eh e r ,inp a r t i cu l a r ,w a sw a s t in gaw ay inad a rkro om w o rk in go n som e th in gth a tcou ldno tp o s s i b lyg iv eh e ran yin t e l l e c tu a ls a t i s f a c t io no rin t e r e s t . Myr e l a t io n sw i thh e rw e r ein s ig n i f i c an tth a ty e a r .S h ec a l l ed m e"D o c to rD eB e n e d e t t i . "A sfo rm e , Id idn o th i n gm o r eth ang l a n c einh e rd i r e c t io nev e ryt im eIw a lk edth ro u g hth el ib r a ry ,an da l lIco u ldth in k toa skw a s ,inah a l f s c i en t i f i candh a l f s a r c a s t i cto n eo fv o i c e ,h owh e rc a l cu l a t io n sw e r eg o in g . U n t i lon ef in ed ay ,tho s ef am ou sm o l e cu l e sg av eM a r in am o r et ro u b l eth anu su a lan dsh eb eg an toc ry .Ith oug h th e rt e a r sw e r efo rf e a ro fn o tg r ad u a t in ginJu ly ,an do fsp en d i n gh e rw h o l esumm e ra t th ec a l c u l a to r .S e e ingap r e t tyg i r lc ryfo rth es ak eo fm o l e cu l a ro rb i t sc anb r e a ka m an ’ sh e a r t .I nm y c ap a c i tya sana s s i s t an ta tt h eU n iv e r s i ty ,Iap p ro a ch e dh e rtoa s s i s th e rinh e rt im eo fn e edb ys ay in ga f ewcom fo r t ingw o rd s .Ito l dh e rt h a tsh ew a st i r edan dsh o u ldg e tsom er e s t :Ito l dh e rn o ttoth in kab o u t th e s eth in g sfo raf eww e e k s ."Whydon ' ty o ug otot h eL i d oan dsp en daf ewd ay sth e r e ?Th ew e a th e ri s b e au t i f u l ,th esu n ' sho t ,an dI 'msu r eaf ewd ay sin m o r en a tu r a ls u r r o u n d in g sw i l lh e lpy o ufo rg e ty o u r p ro b l em s . " M a r in al e f tf o r th eL id oa n dw em ad ead a t efo rS u n d ay m o rn in gin V en i c etov i s i tth eB i en n i a l w h i chh ado p en edaf eww e ek se a r l i e r .W em e to nth eb an k so fth eS ch i av o n eC a n a lb yth eP ag l i aBr id g e n e a rth ef e r rys to p .V en i c eg l i s t e n edint h esu no fab e a u t i fu ln ewsumm e rd ay . Wes awth ea r tsh owi nth em o rn in gan dth enw en ttoth eL id ow h e r ew er en t edarowb o a t .W e row edo u tf o rasw im ,anda sIrow edsh es t r e t ch edo u to nth eb o a t . Th ep rob l emo fco r r e c tb e h av io rw i t hag i r linab o a ti so n eo ft h eg r e a tu n so lv ed m y s t e r i e sfo r y o u n gm en .A sfo rm e ,Ia lw ay sc am eu pw i t ht h ew ro n gan sw e r .T h ec o r r e c tso l u t io nm u s tb ea com p l i c a t edfun c t i on o fl a t i tud e ,lo ng i tu d e ,t em p e r a tu r ean dm an yo th e rv a r i ab l e sw h i cha r em o r e d i f f i c u l ttod e f in e ,l ik eth eedu c a t io n ,m oo d san dp e r s o n a l i t i e so fth etw op eo p l ein v o lv ed .Th el a s tt im eI h adh a dth i sex p e r i en c ew a sinE ng l andw i thaw e l l b u i l t ,v e rya t t r a c t iv e1 6y e a ro ldg i r l .A sth ew e a th e r 72 o nth eC h an n e li sag oodd e a lm o r etu rbu l en tth ano nth eA d r i a t i c ,Iw a sfu l lo fv io l en tth o u g h t s ,b u tth a t t im eIco n t ro l l edm y s e l f ,w i thno tal i t t l et ro u b l e ,s co ld i n gm y s e l ffo rm yev i lth o u g h t s .O fco u r s eth a tw a s th ew r o n gso lu t i on ,an dm ybo a t ingcom p an io nw a sd i s ap p o i n t e d ,a ssh eh e r s e l fto ld m eth en ex tn ig h t w h enw ev i s i t edth eru in so fH a s t ing sC a s t l eu n d e rth es t a r s . S oIw a sv e rys e l fcon s c io u sw i th M a r in a . Myd e s i r e san dm yp r ev io u sex p e r i en c ew e r ep u sh in g m etow a rdanag g r e s s iv es t an c e ,b u tm yp o s i t i o na sa U n iv e r s i tya s s i s t a n tad v i s edc au t io n .It r i edt o d am p en m yem b a r r a s sm en tbyrow inga n dt a lk in g .It a lk edo nan do nu n d e rth esumm e rsu nab o u th ow s t r an g ep h y s i c si sa sac a r e e r ,ab ou tm yr e s e a r ch ,a b o u tm yin t e r e s t sing en e r a lp r o b l em s ,ab o u tm yt r av e l s in A f r i c aandE u r op e ,abo u tm yf r i end sinth el ab ,a n dth ed i f f e r en c e sb e tw e env a r io u sco u n t r i e sint h e w o r ld .M a r in al i s t en e da t t e n t iv e ly . S u d d en lyIs topp edrow ingandt a lk in g ,an dp o n d e r ed m ycom p an io ninth eb o a t .S h eh adsp o k en v e ryl i t t l ean dI w ond e r ed w h a tk indo fp e r s o nsh er e a l ly w a s .Is awh e rc lo s eto m e ;Is awh e rb o d y w h i chsh em od e l eds og r a c e fu l lyund e rh e rw e tb a th in gsu i t .Th elo n g ,s l im,s t ro n gl eg s ,th eam p l eh i p s , th eth inw a i s t ,th esm a l lf i rmb r e a s t s ,th ed e l i c io u sc u r v eo fh e rsh o u ld e r sf romwh i chh e ra rm sex t e n d e d a sg r a c e fu l lya sth en e cko fasw an .W i tha l lm ys en s e sIf e l tin t en t lyth ep ro x im i t yo fah e a l th yin t e l l ig en t an im a lo ft h eoppo s i t es exando fm yow nsp e c i e s .Is awh e rb lo n dlo ck sp ro t ru d in gf romh e rb a th in gc ap , Is awh e rb lu eey e s . Isu f f e r edf romno tk now in gw h a tw a sg o in go nin s i d eh e rh e ad ,an du n d e rh e rl e f tb r e a s t ,in s id e h e rh e a r t . Wh a ti sth i sp e r s onexp e r i e n c i ngsoc lo s etom en ow ?I ssh eh av in gth es am es en s a t io n sa sI ?I s sh ew a i t in gfo rm etoa pp r o a chh e r ,o ri ssh eth in k in gsom e th in ga l to g e th e rd i f f e r en t ?W o u ldanad v an c e b eanu nw e l c om esu rp r i s e ?I ssh eon eo fth o s eg i r l sw h oi su s edtof l i r t in gc a su a l ly ,o rd o e ssh en um b e r am o ngth o s ew hob e l i ev ei nt ru elov ea ndw h ol iv eo n lyfo rt h i s ,w h ow a i to n lyf o rth i s ? F romth e s equ e s t ion s ,andf rom m an ym o r e ,ab a n a lq u e s t i o ns p r an gf rom m ym o u th ,a lm o s t w i th o u tm yb e ingaw a r eo fi t , "Wh a tw ou ldy ous ayi fIcou r t edy o u ? " "O h ! "sh ean sw e r ed ," Iw ou ldn ' tb ea ta l ls u rp r i s ed .I 'msou s edtoi t ! " Iin t e rp r e t edt h i sr ep lya saninv i t a t i o n ;Ito o kth eo a r sag a inan dd i s t an c edt h eb o a tf romth e b e a chan df romanyw a t ch f u lth eey e s . Wh enw ew e r eal i t t l efu r th e raw ayIap p ro a ch edtok i s sh e r . . . N a tu r a l lyth i sw a sth ew ro ngso lu t io n ,an dth et h r e ed ot sa tth een do fth es e n t en c es t an dfo r ab so l u t e lyn o th ing .S h es a i dnoinana s to n i sh edto n e ,a lm o s ta si fsh ew a ssu rp r i s edt h a tsom e th in gl ik e th i sco u ldpo s s ib lyh app enonth ef a c eo ft h ee a r t h-o rfo rth a tm a t t e r ,o nt h esu r f a c eo fth es e a .I u n d e r sto o dth a tsh ed idno ts ayi tt e a s ing ly ,a sanex p e r i en c edp e r so nm ig h t ,ex p e c t in gth eo th e rp e r s o nt o p u r su e .S h es a idas im p l en o ,e a rn e s ta ndq u i e t ,o f f e r e da lm o s ta sa nap o lo g yfo ra sk in gm etot ak eb a ck w h a tIh ada sk edfo r . Toc a lmdow nIdov ein toth ew a t e r .Th e nIr e tu r n edtot h eb o a tan drow edtoth eb e a ch .O nth e w ayb a ckIa sk edh e rtofo r g iv em e .Ito ldh e rt h a tIr e sp e c t edh e rm o r ea f t e rh e rr e fu s a l ,Isp o k es in c e r e ly an di n t e n t ly-b a s i c a l ly ,m yadv an c ew a so n lyar e su l to fth ea c c id en t a lc o n v e rg en c eo fm an yf a c to r s :t h e su n ,th es e a ,th eb e au t i fu ld ay-andapu r e lyp h y s i c a la t t r a c t io n .S oi fsh ew a sn o tinth eh ab i to ff l i r t i n g , sh ed idw e l ltor e fu s em e ,andi fsh ew a sn o tinth eh a b i to ff l i r t in g ,Ir e sp e c t e dh e ra l lth em o r efo ri t .O f co u r s eIl ik edh e r ,sh ew a si n t e l l ig en t ,r e f i n edan d ,ab o v ea l l ,b e au t i fu l .T h ef e e l in g sw h i cha t t r a c t edm eto h e rw e r eth e s e-th ey w e r ec e r t a i n lyh e a l th ym o t iv e s-b u tth ey w e r en o tb a s e do nq u a l i t i e sth a tw e r e ex c lu s iv e lyh e r s ,andth e r ew a sno th ingl a s t i n gab o u tt h em .Ia sk edh e rtoex cu s em yb eh av io ran dh o p e d th a tsh ean dIw ou ldr em a ing oodf r i end s . M a r in al i s t en eda t t en t iv e lyands e r io u s ly ;sh es e em edd i s tu rb ed . Wh e nw eg o to ffth eb o a tw e w a lk edto g e th e raw h i l ean dsh eto l dm esh er eg r e t t edh av in gr e fu s edm e . Ia sk edh e rtocom ev i s i tm ea tth el abw h ens h er e tu r n edt oP ad u atop ro v et h a tsh ew a sn ' tan g ry w i th m e . Tw od ay sl a t e rM a r in ac am etoth el ab .W ew en to u tto g e th e rth a tn i g h t .W ew a lk edth ro u g h d a rkd e s e r t eds t r e e t san dt a l k edth ew ho l et im eab o u ti n s ig n i f i c a n tth in g s ,l ik ef r i e n d sw eh adincomm o n , an dd i dn o tb ro a chanysub j e c tw h i chcou l dh av eap p e a r edp e r so n a l . R a th e rt h anb e ingcon c e r n edabo u tani n d i s c r e t io nto w h i chIa t t a ch edl i t t l eim p o r t an c e ,I w a s m u ch m o r econ c e rn edth a ttheind i s c r e t io nm ig h tb et ak ens e r io u s ly ,m o r es e r io u s lyinf a c tth ani th a d 73 b e enin t en d ed .B e ingr e j e c t edf o ranin s ig n i f i c an tad v an c ew o u n d e dm yp r id e ,b u td idn o tt ro u b l em e .I f M a r in ah ada c c ep t edth er e l a t ion sh ip w h i c hIh adsoim p u l s iv e lyo f f e r ed ,an dw h i c hIf e l tw a sn o t r e c ip ro c a t ed ,Iw ou ldh av eb e env e ryun com fo r t ab l ein d e ed .F o rth a tr e a s o nIk ep tth eto p i co fco n v e r s a t io ntog en e r a lp e r son a l i tyc h a r a c t e r i s t i c san d ,a f t e rt ak i n gh e rh om e ,Ico n s id e r edt h ein c id en tc lo s ed . Af ewd ay sl a t e r ,t ow a rd st h eendo fJu ly ,Iw en to nv a c a t io n . * * * Ih add e c id edtosp en da m on thin A u s t r i atol e a rnal i t t l eG e rm an . My m o th e rw a sg o in gtoth e D o lom i t e s ,to M a s a r e ' ,al i t t l etow no nth eb a n k so fL ak eA l l ag h e ,w h e r esom eo th e rr e l a t iv e sw e r e s t ay in g .W el e f ttog e th e ran dIa c com p an i edh e rtoh e rsumm e rh om e .Is t ay edo nw i thh e rfo raf ewd ay s . inasm a l lv i l l ag ea tth efoo to fth een o rm o u sv e r t i c a lc l i f f so fth eC iv e t t a . Ih e a rdth en ew st h e r eth a taS p an i shg en e r a lh adr eb e l l ed . Il e f tt h eD o lom i t e sfo rZ e l lamS e e ,aq u a in tTy ro l e antow no nth eb an k so fal ak eu n d e rt h e G ro s sg lo ck e r .Th ef i r s tf ewd ay sth e r eIw a sb o r e d .Ik n ewn oo n ean dd id n ' tk n owth el an g u ag e .Ito ok w a lk sa lo n ea ndinth eev e n ing sIw en ttoc a f e san dd an c eh a l l sfo rsom eex c i tem en tan dtof i n dsom eo n e w i thw h omIcou ldex ch ang eaf eww o rd sinG e rm an . Ir e adth en ew sp ap e r stos t u d yth el an g u ag ean d fo rn ew so fth ein su r r e c t i oninS p a in ,w h i chw a sg e t t in gs t e ad i lym o r ein t e r e s t in g . Im e tag roupo fp eop l ef r omF r an c ean dt u rn edtot h emfo rn ew sf romth e i rc o u n t ry .Is t a r t e d sp e ak in gw i thacoup l ein m yho t e l .H eto ld m eth a tt h in g sw e r eg o in gb ad lyinF r an c e ;t h a tth eP o p u l a r F ro n tg o v e rnm en tcou ldno tl a s tandt h a tar eb e l l io nl i k eth eo n einS p a inw a simm in en t .A n o th e rd ay ,in ac a f e ,Ih adaconv e r s a t io nw i than o th e rco u p l e ,f romP a r i so nt h e i rh o n eym o o n .H et au g h tl i t e r a tu r ei na h ig hs ch o o l .H ec am ef romap l a c en e a rw h e r eIh ads t ay ed ,an dw ed i s co v e r edt h a tw eh adsom em u tu a l f r i en d sinP a r i s .O fc ou r s eth e i rv e r s io no fth eev en t sinF r an c ew a sq u i t ed i f f e r en t .Th ey w e r efu l lo f en th u s i a smandh adg r e a th op e s . Th e nIg o ttok nowan A u s t r i ang i r lw h o s en am ew a sG r e t ch en .W ew e r es t ay in ga tt h es am e h o t e lan dsom e t im e stookw a lk stog e th e r .S h ew a ss tu d y in gm ed i c in ein V i en n a .H e rm o th e rh a d r em a r r i ed ,t h i st im etoa w e l lk now np sy ch o a n a ly s t .S ow et a lk edo fm an yth in g s :p sy ch o an a ly s i s , s c i e n c e ,t r av e l s ,l i f einv a r i ou scoun t r i e s .W eh ap p e n e dtoag r e eo nm an yi s su e s ,in c l u d in gp o l i t i c s .W e w en tsw imm ingandrow in gtog e th e ronth el ak ea lw a y ssp e ak in ginG e rm an .Isp e akG e rm anv e ryb ad ly , b u tsom eh owIw a sab l etoexp r e s sm y s e l f . W es t a r t edtof l i r t ando n en ig h t ,o nth es h o r eo fth el ak eIk i s s edh e r .Th en ex td ayw ew en ttoa f i e ldfu l lo ff low e r s-sh ew a sw e a r ingaTy ro l e a nd i rn d l .Th en ex tn ig h tw es l e p tt o g e th e r .W eb e c am e lo v e r sa n dsp en tarom an t i ctw ow e ek sto g e th e r . S h e ,th ecoup l ef romF r an c e ,andId r ewu pap l anfo ranin t e rn a t io n a ls tu d en to rg an i z a t io n ,w i tha jo u rn a lp r i n t e dinG e rm an ,F r en chandI t a l i an .Th ejo u rn a lw o u ldn o tb eo p en lyan t i f a s c i s t ,b u ti tw o u ld , w i th inth er e s t r i c t ion sim po s edinI t a lyan dA u s t r i a ,s t r en g th enth eso l id a r i tyo fy o u n gp eo p l ea c ro s s n a t io n a lb o und a r i e s .I tm igh th av eb e ena m e an in g fu lo rg an i z a t io n ,b u tn ev e rg oti to f fth eg ro u n df o r m any( r a th e ru n in t e r e s t ing )r e a s on s . S t ay inga tou rho t e lw a sth em an ag e ro fth eMa t in n ew sp ap e rw i thh i sd au g h t e r .Th eyw e r eg o in g toG r e e c eb yc a randn e ed e dd i r e c t ion sth ro u g hI t a ly .Ito o kth eo p p o r tu n i tytot a l kab o u tth eh ig hp r i c eo f g a s ,th ew a rinE th iop i a ,w h i ch w a sth ec au s eo fth eh ig hp r i c e s ,an do ft h es adp l ig h to fth eI t a l i a n s . Mo n s i eu rB runn e auV a r i l l aw a sar em a rk ab lycu l tu r e dan din t e l l ig en tm an .H ew a sa m em b e ro fav e ry w e a l t h y an dw e l l k now nF r en chf am i ly .H ew a sw e l lv e r s edinp h y s i c s ,w h i cha lo n gw i th m u s i c ,w h i ch w a sah o b b yfo rh im .H ekn ewth ephy s i c i s t sa tB ro g l i e .H ew a sp roF a s c i s t,w h i chh eco n f e s s ed m o r eo r l e s so p en ly ,bu th i sd aug h t e rw a sa m em b e ro faC omm u n i s ty o u thg ro u p . M e e t ingp eop l ef romF r an c einth i sl i t t l e Ty ro l e anv i l l ag ed em o n s t r a t edto m eh owd e ep ly d iv id edth eF r en chw e r e .T h ev en e r ab l eo l dd em o c r a c yw a sind an g e ro fb e in gc a s ta s id eb yn a s c en tp ro C omm u n i s tandp ro -f a s c i s tfo r c e s . 74 Tow a rd sth eendo fA ug u s tG r e t ch e nan dIl e f tf o rV i en n a . W es t o p p edf o rh a l fad ayin S a l t sb u rg .G r e t ch e n ' sm o th e rm e tu sa tth es t a t io ninV i en n aw i thasm a l lc a r .Ir eg i s t e r eda tah o t e lint h e c en t e ro ft ow n . Is awG r e t ch enf r equ en t lydu r ing m ys t ayo ft eno rsod ay s .W eu su a l lyw en to u tto g e th e ri nth e ev en in g s .O n c ew ew en ttoanexqu i s i t e lyty p i c a lV i en n e s ek e l l e rina no ldc e l l a rw h e r eap i an oan dv io l in p l ay edth esw e e t e s tand m o s tm ov ingw a l t z e s .W ew en ttov i s i tth ecomm u n a lh o u s e s ,th eG em e in h a u s en , o fth eso c i a l i s tw o rk e r s .D o l fu s sh adt ak enth emo v e ra tg u n p o in tw h e n ,w i th Mu s s o l in i ' sh e lp ,h e in s t i tu t edA u s t r i a ' sF a s c i s tg ov e rnm en t .Iw en ttos e eth eM a rx h au s ,th a tf am o u sb a s t io no fth eV i en n e s e p ro l e t a r i a t ,andfo rr a th e rn a t i on a l i s t i cr e a so n s ,Iw en ttos e eth eM a t t eo t t ih au s . A u s t r i an F a s c i smw a sm o r er e s t r a in edth a nI t a l i an F a s c i sm. Th e r ew e r e ,f o rex am p l e ,som e n ew sp ap e r sw h i chsym p a th i z edc l e a r lyen o u g hw i thd em o c r a cy .A f t e rth ea s s a s s in a t i o no fD o l fu s s , S h u s sn ig w a lk edan un s t e adyt ig h t rop eb e tw e ent h eso c i a l i s tw o rk e r s ,w h ow e r ed e f e a t ed b u tn o t p l a c a t e d ,an dth eN a z i sw h oadv o c a t edan n ex a t i o nt oG e rm an y . Th i sp r e c a r io u sb a l an c in ga c tw a sa i d ed b yth ev i c t o r iou sh ando f Mu s so l in i .Th eo n lysu p p o r tth eg o v e rnm en th adina l lo fA u s t r i aw a sam o n g th eC a th o l i c s .C l e a r lysu chas i tu a t io ncou ldn o tl a s t . V i en n ah adth es ada pp e a r a n c eo fag r an do ldc ap i t a lind e c l in ea f t e rlo s in gi t sem p i r e . F romV i enn aIw en ttoB ud ap e s t ,t r av e l in gth r o u g hHu n g a rybyb o a to nth eD an u b e .Ia r r iv edin B u d ap e s ta tn ig h tands awa l lth ebu i ld in g so fth ec i t yl i tu p .I tw a sab e au t i fu ls ig h t .S e e in gth es ig h t s c lo s eu p ,h ow ev e r ,r ev e a l e dth a tth e r ew a sn o tm u cho fg r e a ta r t i s t i cv a lu e .Iw a sth e r efo rS a in tS t ev en ' s D ay ,th ed ayo fth ep a t rons a in to fth ecou n t ry .I tw a sc e l eb r a t e db yap i c tu r e sq u ea s s em b lyo fn o b l em en ino ldc e r em on i a ld r e s s ,an do fcou r s eth eo b l ig a to ryc l e rg ym en .Th ep e a s an t sc am einf romth ec o u n t ry inth e i rn a t i on a lco s tum e s .Th ew om enw o r eh e av yb o o t sw h i chd idn o th in gfo rth e i rlo o k s . Iw en tb a ckto V i enn abybu s ,t r av e r s i n gth eH u n g a r i anco u n t ry s i d e .Ico u lds e eh owp o o rth e p e a s a n t sw e r e .Th eyl iv edi nab so lu t e lyp r im i t iv eco n d i t io n s ,b o thm a t e r i a l lyan di n t e l l e c tu a l ly . Myim p r e s s iono fH ung a ryw a sth a to fas t u p idan dg r e ed yn o b i l i ty ,ar i ch ,sn o b b i shan dp s eu d oin t e l l e c tu a lm e r ch an tc l a s s ,ano th e rsm a l l ,p r ed om in an t lyJ ew i sh m e r ch an tc l a s s ,a n dag en e r a lp o p u l a t io n w h i ch w a so u t r ag eou s lyex p lo i t ed ,andsoa c c u s t om edtob e in gex p lo i t edth a tt h e yw e r eh a rd lyaw a r eo f i t .B e fo r er e tu r n ingtoI t a lyIp a s s edth rou g hV i en n aan dv i s i t edG r e t ch en .S h ec r i e dw h enIl e f t .Ir e a l i z e d th a to u rr e l a t i on sh ip ,w h i c hh ads t a r t edsoi n n o c e n t l y ,h adb e com es e r io u sf o rm e ,an dfo rh e rp e rh ap s som e th in gm o r e . 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UHVLVWDQFHWR)DVFLVPDQGHYHQWKHHQGRI)UDQFH V7KLUG5HSXEOLF7KHHQGZDVLQHYLWDEOHWKHUHZDVQR WXUQLQJEDFN$QGRQHPLJKWHYHQVD\LWZDVDQHQGWKDWWKH\GHVHUYHG 113 Ch ap t e rT en O rg an i z in gEm ig r e s :AF a i l edId e a B a r c e lon af e l l .Th a tw a sav e rys add a y .A f t e rw a rd s ,W a r s aw ,O s lo ,P a r i s ,a n dA th e n sa l s of e l l . B u tn o n eo ftho s ed e f e a t sw a sa ss ada sth ed a yth a tB a r c e lo n af e l l .Th ew a rinS p a in ,b e in gac iv i lw a r , w a sm o r eg r i ev ou sth ant h ew o r ldw a rth a tf o l low e d .I nS p a in ,th ep e o p l ek n eww h a tth e yw e r ef ig h t in g fo r .I nS p a in ,i tw a sap e op l ef ig h t ingfo ri t sow nf r e ed om ;i tw a sn o ta nem p i r em a sq u e r a d in ga sa d em o c r a cy ,d e f end ingi t sow nin t e r e s t s .W i thth ed e f e a tinS p a in ,th eh o p efo rafu tu r ec iv i co rd e rh a d b e enq u a sh e d . P a r i sb eg antos e er e fug e e sa r r iv in gf romth eS p a n i s hC iv i lW a ra n dI m e ts om eo fth em ,o f t e n p e o p l eo fI t a l i ano r ig in .O n en ig h t ,l e av in gal e c tu r eg iv e nb yL a n g e v ina tth eS o r b o n n e ,I m e tC e s a r e C o lom b ow h oh adw o rk edonI t a l i an l ang u a g eb ro a d c a s t sfo rR a d ioB a r c e lo n a .A tth eb o rd e r ,th eF r en c h h a din t e rn e dh iminth ec on c en t r a t i onc am pa tG u r sf rom w h i c hh ee s c a p e d ,t a k in ga d v a n t a g eo fth e c o n fu s io no fth ee a r lyd ay s .Iw i l ls aym o r ea b o u th iml a t e r . Ib e c am eb e t t e rf r i e nd sw i tham a nw h oh a de s c a p e df romac o n c e n t r a t io nc am pfo rS p a n i s h r e fu g e e s .H ew a sk now na sS co t t i . Wh enw ew e r ein t r o d u c ed ,Iw a n t e dtos h ak eh a n d s ,b u t"N o , "h es a id , "B ec a r e fu l .Ih av er ingw o rm . "Ih adn ev e rm e tap e r s o nw i thr i n gw o rm ,w h i c hIth o u g h tw a sad i s e a s eo f u n d e rn o u r i s h ed ,s t r ayc a t s .B u tinth ein t e rnm e n tc am pth a tth eF r e n chR e p u b l i ch a ds e tu pt ow e l c om e th eS p a n i s hR epub l i c an s ,i tw a scom p l e t e lyn o rm a ltog e tr in gw o rm . C a t a lon i a ' sf a l lan dth ea r r i v a lo fth e s er e fu g e e sm a rk e dth een do fth eh o p e sfo rt h ep o l i t i c so fth e P o p u l a rF r o n t ,w h i chh ada l r e adyb e enh a rdh i tb yth eM u n i c ha g r e em e n t . Ap e r io do fu n c e r t a in ty , m i s t ru s t ,a n dd i s cou r ag em en tfo l l ow ed . I tw a sdu r ingth i sp e r iodt h a tP l a toa sk ed m etofo rmag ro u po fI t a l i a na n t i f a s c i s ti n t e l l e c tu a l s . Th ec omm u n i tyo fI t a l i aném ig r é sh adb e e nm a d eu pp r im a r i lyo fw o rk e r sa n dp o l i t i c a lr e fu g e e s ,w h i l e in t e l l e c tu a l sh adon lyb e c om eanim po r t a n tg ro u pa f t e rt h er e c e n ta n t i s em i t i cc am p a ig n . Th e s en ew ém ig r é sd idn o th av ead e f in i t epo l i t i c a lo r i e n t a t io n .I tw o u l db eu s e fu ltot rytop u l lth emto g e th e ri n t o s om efo rmo fo rg an i z a t io n ,bo thfo rth ep r e s t ig eth a tth e yc o u ldl e n dth ea n t i f a s c i s tc au s e ,fo rth e i r p o t e n t i a lin v o lv em en tina n t i f a s c i s ta c t iv i ty ,o rtok e epth emf romb e com in gc om p l e t e lyd e t a ch e df rom I t a l i a na f f a i r san db e c om ealo s stoth e i rc o u n t ry ,a s id ef romth e i rl o s stoth ef a s c i s tc au s e . I ts e em edl ik eag oodid e aandIw a sinag o o dp o s i t io ntot a k eth i so n .Iw a sn o tb e h o ld e ntoa n y p o l i t i c a lg ro upandIw a sinapo s i t iontoa t t em p ttog e tt h ec o l l a b o r a t io no fa l lt h ee x i s t in gg ro u p s .A f t e r a l l ,I ,to o ,w a sp a r to fth en ewin t e l l e c tu a lem ig r a t io n . O fc ou r s e ,th eC omm un i s tP a r tyw a sc o u n t in go nm etoa l lowi ttoe x e r c i s ei t si n f lu e n c eo nt h i s fu tu r eo rg a n i z a t ion .O nm yend ,If e l tth a tIh a dn oo b l ig a t io ntoth em .Id idn o tc a r ew h o s ei d e ai tw a s .I n p r in c ip l e ,i ts e em edl ik eag oodid e a ,a ndIe x p e c t e dtop ro c e e dinm yow nw ay . 11 4 A c co rd ingto m e ,th eo rg an i z a t io ns h o u l dh a v eb e ena p o l i t i c a l .Iw a n t e dt ofo rmap u r e lyc u l tu r a l g ro u p ,w h e r eev e ryp a r tycou ldex e r c i s ei t sin f lu e n c e ,an e u t r a lm e e t in gg ro u n d ,w h e r ev a r io u sid e a s c o u ldb ed i s cu s s e d . M yid e aw a st os t a r tbyf i nd ingo rr e n t in gar o ominP a r i s .Th eg ro u pw o u lds u b s c r ib eto m a n y I t a l i a nn ew sp ap e r s ,bo thF a s c i s tandan t i f a s c i s t ,a n dc u l tu r a lm a g a z in e s ,s oth a tp e o p l ew o u ldh a v ea c en t r a lm e e t ingp l a c ef romw h i chtok e ept r a cko fe v e n t sinI t a ly .I tw o u ldb eak in do fc l u b ,m a y b ew i th a ne sp r e s s om a ch in e ,w h e r ep eop l ecou ld m e e tinth eev e n in g ,r e adt h ep a p e r s ,sm ok eac ig a r e t t ea n dc h a t ab i t .O n c eaw e ek ,p eop l ewou ldt ak etu rn sg r e e t i n gv i s i to r s ,u s in gth e i rs p a r et im etop r e p a r ean o t e b o o k d o c um e n t in gth el a t e s tn ew sonI t a lyandF a s c i sm .W eh o p e dth a tc o n t r ib u t io n sf r omf r i e n d sw o u lda l low u stob u yb ook sfo rasm a l ll ib r a ry ,andth a tv a r io u sp o l i t i c a lg ro u p sw o u ldd o n a t eth e i rp u b l i c a t io n s . E v e ryo n c einawh i l em e e t ing s ,d i s cu s s ion s ,an dsm a l lc o n f e r e n c e sc o u ldb eo rg a n i z e d . Is e tto w o rkinsp r ing .I tw a sh a rd w o rk ,a ndr e q u i r e dag r e a td e a lo ft a c tb e c a u s eth ep o l i t i c a l g ro u p sw e r esu s p i c iou so fe a cho th e r ,j e a lo u so fth e i rid e o lo g i c a lp u r i ty ,a n dc o n s t a n t lyp r e o c c u p i e dw i th m a in t a in in gande x t e nd ingth e i rin f lu e n c e .Ith e r e f o r es t a r t e dad ip lom a t i cin i t i a t i v ew h i c h ,am o n go th e r th in g s ,a l low ed m etog e tac lo s e uplooka tth er e l a t io n s h ip sb e tw e e nth ev a r io u sg ro u p s ,m o v em e n t sa n d p a r t i e s ,an dtou nd e r s t andt h et a c t i c a lan did e o l o g i c a ls im i l a r i t i e sa n dd i f f e r e n c e sb e tw e e nth em . Th ef i r s tp e r sonItu r n edtow a sF r a n c oV e n tu r i .D e s p i t em yc o l l a b o r a t io nw i t ht h eC omm u n i s t s , m ysym p a th yfo rG iu s t i z iaeL ib e r táw a su n d im in i s h e da n dfo rs om et im eId e lu d e dm y s e l fin tob e l i e v in g th a ti tw a sp o s s ib l efo rth etw og roup stor e a c hal a s t in ga g r e em e n t . Th e r ew a sinf a c tak indo fr e c ip ro c a lr e sp e c tb e tw e enth eC omm u n i s tP a r tya n dG iu s t i z iae L i b e r tá .Th eC omm un i s t sr e cog n i z edt h eg o o df a i tho fs om eo fth em em b e r so fGL ,s u cha st h eR o s s e l l i b ro th e r s ,w h oh add i edfo rth e i roppo s i t io ntoF a s c i sm ,o rEm i l ioL u s s o ,o rF r an c oV e n tu r ih im s e l f .Th e GL ' sr e co g n i z edth a tth eC omm un i s tP a r ty w a sas e r i o u sm o v em e n t ,a n do n eo fth em a jo rfo r c e sinth e f ig h ta g a in s tF a s c i sm . B u tIqu i ck lyl e a rn edth a tt h e r ew e r ea l s oin s u rm o u n t a b l ed i f f e r e n c e st h a tm a d ei tim p o s s ib l efo r th emtoc om etot h eag r e em en tIw a ss e ek in g . GLw a sa"m ov em en t , "no tap a r ty .I t sm em b e r sw e r en o ts u b j e c ttoa n yk in do fd i s c ip l in e .Th e y w o rk e do nth ep r in c ip l eth a tp e op l ep e r fo rm e db e s tw h e nth e yfo l low e dth e i row nin c l in a t io n sa n dth e i r ow nin s p i r a t ion .Th i sw a sun a c c ep t ab l etoth eC omm u n i s t s ,w h ow e r em o n o l i th i c a l lyd i s c ip l in e da n dd id n o ta l lowa nyid eo log i c a ld ev i a t ion so rd e v i a t i o n sinp r a c t i c e . Th e yw e r es u s p i c io u so fth el a cko f iu s t i z iaeL ib e r tám o v em e n t ,a n dth e yin f e r r e dth a ti tw a sin f i l t r a t e db y d i s c ip l in ea ndcon t ro lw i t h i nth eG d u b io u se l em en t s ,i fno tbysp i e s . G iu s t i z iaeL ib e r tád idno tsub s c r ib etoaw e l l d e f in e dp o l i t i c a lth e o rya n di t so f f i c i a lp o s i t io nw a s e s s en t i a l lyon eo fc r i t i c i sm .I tno ton lyc r i t i c i z e dF a s c i sm ,i ta l s oc r i t i c i z e db o u rg e o i sa n dc ap i t a l i s t s o c i e ty ,a n di th adap ro f o undav e r s iontor i c hc ap i t a l i s t sa n dl a n d ow n e r s .I t sm em b e r sw e r eg e n e r a l ly q u i t ef a rtoth el e f tandl e a n edt ow a rdsup p o r to fas o c i a l i s tr e p u b l i ca sap o l i t i c a ls o lu t io nfo rI t a ly .B u t th e yw a n t e dar epu b l i ct h a tr e sp e c t edind iv id u a ll ib e r t y ,a n dth a tw a sn o tb a s e do nad i c t a to r s h ipo fc l a s s o rp a r ty . F r omaph i lo s oph i c a lp e r s p e c t iv e ,th eC omm u n i s t sw e r em a t e r i a l i s t s ,w h i l e GLs u p p o r t e r sw e r e id e a l i s t s :Th eym ayno th av eb e ento t a l lyd e v o t e dtoC r o c e ,b u tth e ys h ow e dc o n s i d e r a b l er e s p e c tfo rh im . F r oma nid eo log i c a lp e r sp e c t iv e ,th eC omm u n i s t sh a dav e ry w e l l d e f in e d" th e o ry , "w h i l eG i u s t i z iae L i b e r táa l l ow edi t sm em b e r stoth i nka sth e yp l e a s e d . F i n a l ly ,th eC omm un i s tP a r tycon s i s t e dm o s t lyo fw o rk e r s ,w h i l eG iu s t i z i aeL i b e r tá w a sm a d e u pp r im a r i lyo fi n t e l l e c tu a l s .(Th e GL sc l a im e dth a tt h e i rg ro u pinL y o n sw a sc om p o s edo fw o rk e r s ,b u t th eC omm u n i s t sh e ldt h a ta tm o s t ,th e r ew e r en om o r eth a ntw oo rth r e ew o rk e r si nth a tg ro u p . ) Th ein t e l l e c tu a l sinG i u s t i z iaeL ib e r tá d idn o tt o l e r a t eth ed i s c i p l in eth a tt h eC omm u n i s tP a r ty im p o s edo ni t sm em b e r sinth eb e l i e fth a tth i sd i s c ip l in ee x t in g u i s h e dth e i rm em b e r s 'p o t e n t i a l .Th e yw e r e p a r t i c u l a r lyind ig n an ta bou tth eP a r ty ' st a c t i c a lm a n eu v e r in g .U nw i l l in gtoc om p rom i s e ,th e ya c c u s edt h e C omm u n i s t so fhy po c r i syfo rb e ing w i l l in gtoc o l l a b o r a t ew i thth ed e v i lo rth ep o p e ,ino rd e rtog a ina t a c t i c a la d v an t ag eo fag iv ens i tu a t ion ,an dth e nr e fu s in gtoto l e r a t ea n yc r i t i c i smo fth e s ea l l i e s . 11 5 GLb e l i ev edinth eim po r t an c eo fth et a l e n t e dm a n ,th el e ad e rw h om ak e sh i s to ry .Th e r e fo r e ,i t d idn o ts h r inkf romo rg an i z ingt e r ro r i s ta t t a ck sa g a in s tM u s s o l in ia n di tw a sp r o b a b lyth i sty p eo fa c t iv i ty th a tl e a dtoth ef a t a lk n i f i ng so ft h eR o s s e l l i n ib ro t h e r s .D e sp i t ei t sv e n e r a t io no fS t a l in ,th eCPc l a im e dto b e l i e v es o l e lyi na c t i onb yth em a s s e sa n di tc o n d em n e dt e r ro r i s ta t t a ck sa g a in s ts in g l ein d iv id u a l s . A c co rd in gtoth eC omm un i s t s ,t a rg e t ing M u s s o l in iw a sn o ts ig n i f i c a n tb e c a u s eth i sw o u ldn o tc h a n g eth e e co n om i cs t ru c tu r eo fI t a l i anso c i e ty .A c co rd in gtot h e i rth e o r i e s ,th ec a p i t a l i s t sw o u lde a s i lyr e p l a c e M u s s o l in i . H e r eIw i l la l l ow m y s e l fad ig r e s s io no nth eC omm u n i s tid e ao fth e" l e ad e r . "O n c eIw a st a lk in g toaC omm un i s tabou ton eo fth eb e t t e r -k now nl e ad e r so ft h eS p a n i s hR e p u b l i c .Ith in ki tw a sN e g r in . Th eC omm u n i s t sh adtou t e dth i sp e r son-l e t ' sc a l lh imN e g r in-inth ep r e s s ,p r a i s in gh imtoth es k i e s w i thth ei ru su a lex ag g e r a t e da c co l ad e s ."N e g r in , "m yC omm u n i s tf r i e n ds a id ," i sy o u ra v e r a g eg u y ,b u t th em a s s e sn e e da m antob eh e ldupa sas ym b o l ,l ik eaf l a g .I nS p a inw eh a v ec h o s e nN e g r i ntob eth e s ym b o l .W hyno tp r a i s eh imtoth esk i e s ,o np a p e r ,i ft h i ss t r e n g th e n st h ef ig h t i n gs p i r i to ft h eS p a n i s h p o p u l a c e ? "Th es am ei st ru eh e r einF r an c e ,w i thTh o r e s .T h o r e si s ,w i th o u tad o u b t ,asm a r tg u y ,b u tth e r e w o u ldb en or e a sontoid o l i z eh imi fi td id n ' tf i tt h en e ed so fth em a s s e s .I ti sp u r e lyaq u e s t io no f p ro p a g a n d a ,aw ayo fs im p l i fy ingth ing s .F ewc a nu n d e r s t a n dd i a l e c t i c a lm a t e r i a l i sm ,b u tm a n yo fth o s e w h od o n ' tu nd e r s t and w i l ls t i l lfo l lowa m a no raf l a g . "M ay b et h i sr e a s o n in ge x p l a in e dth ep o r t r a i t so f S t a l in ,th e"g r e a tcom r ad e , "i nR u s s i a nhom e s ,r e p l a c in gth ei c o n sth a tw e r er em ov e db yth er e v o lu t io n . Th eR u s s i a np eop l ehe l dap l a c einth e i rh e a r t sfo rt h ec z a r ,t h e" l i t t l ef a th e r , "a n dth i sh a dtob ef i l l e d s om e h ow . A l lth i s ,i ft r u e ,p rov e sth a tC omm u n i s t s ,w h i l eh a v in gth eg r e a t e s tf a i thinth ep ow e ro fth e m a s s e s ,d o n ' th av eav e ryh ig hop i n iono ft h e i rju d gm e n t ,a tl e a s tinth e i rc u r r e n ts t a t eo fp r e p a r a t io n . C omm u n i s t sb e l i ev eth a tt h em a s s e sm u s tb e" e d u c a t e d . "Th em a s s e sc anin t u i t iv e lyu n d e r s t a n dw h e r e th e i rin t e r e s t sl i e ,bu tc ane a s i lyf a l lv i c t imtoth e i rp r e ju d i c e so rb et r i c k e db yf a l s el e ad e r s .Th e r e fo r et h e CPg iv e si t s e l fth eex c lu s iv em i s s iontop ro t e c tth em a s s e sf r oms u ch m e n ,toe d u c a t eth em ,tog u id eth em inth e i row nin t e r e s t s ,t ow a rdth et ru el ig h t .I f ,h ow e v e r ,a n o th e rg ro u pw a n t st ot a k eo nth i st a sk ,th e C omm u n i s t ss c r e am" s c and a l "a ndc l a imth a tn oo n eh a sar ig h tt ot e a chth em a s s e s .I nth e i rd e f e n s e ,o n e c o u lds a yth a tth el e ad e r so fth e CPa r eth em s e lv e so fth ep e o p l e ,a n dth e r e fo r eth ee d u c a t io no fth e m a s s e sm ig h tb econ s id e r e dafo rmo fs e l f e d u c a t io n . I ns p i t eo ft h e s em anyd i f f e r en c e sa n dth ed i s t ru s tb e tw e enth em ,th eC omm u n i s tP a r tya n dth e G iu s t i z iaeL ib e r tá m ov em en th ado c c a s io n a l ly w o rk e dto g e th e r . GL w a sn o t ,a n dh a dn e v e rb e e na n t i c omm u n i s tinp r i n c i p l e ,an dth eComm un i s t sa tth a tt im e ,s t i l la d h e r e dt oth ep o l i t i c so fth eP o p u l a rF r o n t . F o re x am p l e ,anI t a l i anc h ap t e ro fag rou pn am e dL ICA(L e g aIn t e r n a z io n a l eC o n t r ol 'A n t i s em i t i sm oI n t e rn a t i o n a lL e ag u eA g a in s tA n t i s em i t i sm ) ,a ne x t r em e lyr a d i c a lo rg a n i z a t io n ,h a db e enfo rm e du n d e r th ea u s p i c e so fth eCPa ndth eGL .B u te v e ninth i sc a s e ,i th a db e end i f f i c u l ttos e t t l eo na na r r a n g em e n t b e c a u s eth etw og roup sw e r eun ab l et oag r e eo nap r e s id e n t .T h ei s su eh a db e e nr e so lv e db yn am in gtw o p r e s id e n t s ,o n eam em b e ro fth eCPandth eo th e ro ft h eGL . G iv e nth e s ep r e c ed en t s ,Ithoug h ti tw o u ldb eag o o di d e atot a lktoV e n tu r ia b o u tth ep ro s p e c t iv e in t e l l e c tu a lg roup .A tf i r s tV en tu r ih adsom ed o u b t s ,m ay b ef e a r in gth a tm yt i e stoth eCPw e r es t r o n g e r th a nth e ya c t u a l lyw e r e .I nth een dh ed e c id e dt os u p p o r tth eid e aa n dtot a lktoth eS o c i a l i s t s .Iin s i s t e d th a tI w a n t eda c t iv ecoop e r a t ionf r om GLa n dth eS o c i a l i s t sb e c a u s eId idn o tw a n tth eg ro u ptob e e x c lu s iv e lyC omm un i s t . O n eev en ingI m e tw i thth er ep r e s e n t a t iv e so fth eth r e eg ro u p sinasm a l lc a f e .Th e r ew a sG a l l o (L u i g iL o n g o )r ep r e s en t ingth eCP .H eh a dr e c e n t lyr e tu rn e df romS p a inw h e r eh eh a db e ena s s ig n e dth e im p o r t a n tpo s i t iono fpo l i t i c a lcomm i s s a rfo rth eI n t e r n a t io n a lB r ig a d e .M a r i oL e v ir e p r e s e n t e dth e S o c i a l i s tP a r ty-th es am eM a r ioL ev iw h oh a de lu d e dth eF a s c i s tp o l i c eb ysw imm inga c ro s sar iv e ri n to Sw i t z e r l a n d(m en t i on eda bov e ) .V en tu r ir e p r e s en t e d GL .I w a sth e r e ,a n dIth in kth e r ew a sa n o th e r C omm u n i s t ,R on co l i(Mon t ag n an a . ) 11 6 W et a lk edf o ralongt im eth a tn ig h t .F i n a l ly ,w ec am etoa na g r e em e n tinp r i n c i p l e ,tok i c ko f fth e n ewa c t iv i tybyho ld i ngam e e t ingth a tw a sl e s sp o l i t i c a lth a nin t e l l e c tu a l . Iw a sch a rg ed w i tha r r ang i ngth em e e t i n g .Ir e n t e dasm a l lro ominac a f einth eQ u a r t i e rL a t in , a n ds e n to u ta nnoun c em en t s .Ip r ep a r e da m o t io ntob ev o t e do na tth em e e t i n g ,s oth a tI w o u ldh a v e s om e th in gtoshowth ep eo p l ew how ou ldb ea sk e dtos u p p o r tth eg ro u pf in a n c i a l ly .I tw a sa nin n o c u o u s m o t io nth a ts t a t e dad e s i r etoc r e a t eag rou pfo rth eg e n e r a lp u rp o s eo fu p h o ld in gth eI t a l i a nt r ad i t io no f l ib e r a lc u l tu r e ,w i thth eex p e c t a t ionth a tth i sm ig h tb eu s e fu ltoI t a lyinth ef u tu r e ,a n dtoa l lo fE u ro p ein i t ss t ru g g l eag a in s tth efo r c e so fopp r e s s io n . A b o u ttw en typ eop l ec am e .W r i t e r s ,p a in t e r s( Ith in kC a r loL e v ic am e ) ,a r t i s t s ,m e no fc u l tu r e a n do fs c i e n c e .N oon ec am ea sano f f i c i a lr e p r e s e n t i n gth e GL .I m a d eal i t t l ei n t ro d u c t o rys p e e c h ,a n d p r e s e n t e dth em o t ionw h i c hw a sd i s cu s s eda n ds l ig h t l ym o d i f i e dt os a t i s fye v e ryt a s t e .F in a l lyth em o t i o n p a s s e d ,a n danex e cu t iv ecomm i t t e ew a sfo rm e dw h o s ejo bi tw a stoc o l l e c tm o n e y ,an dtof i n dap l a c efo r th en ewg ro up ' sh e adqu a r t e r s .Th en ex tm e e t in g ,tob eo rg a n i z e db yth ee x e cu t iv ec omm i t t e e ,w a ss e tto t a k ep l a c ea f t e rth esumm e rv a c a t iona tw h i c ht im eth ec omm i t t e ew o u ldr e p o r to ni t sa c t iv i t i e s .T h e c omm i t t e ec on s i s t edo fLu r i a ,S ig no r i[w a sth a th i sr e a ln am e ?Id o n ' tr em em b e r ] ,a n dm e . S i g n o r iw a sap a in t e r ,aty p i c a l ,t r a d i t i o n a lb o h em i a nf romth eM o n tp a rn a s s e .H el iv e dinas h a ck inac o u r ty a rdb eh indth eC a f eD om e .N a tu r a l ly ,h ed idn o th a v eat e l e p h o n e .H ed id n ' tev e nh a v ea d o o rb e l l .I tw a sth e r e f o r ev e ry h a rdtoc o n t a c th im .S om ee v e n in g sL u r i aa n dI w o u ld h e adfo r M o n t p a rn a s s etot a lktoS i g no r iabou tsom eid e aw eh a db e e nd i s c u s s in g .W ec ro s s e dth eL u x em b o u rg G a rd e n sa n dB ou l ev a rd M on tp a rn a s s eandw h e nw ea r r iv e da tS ig n o r i ' sp l a c e ,w eb a n g e da n dk i c k e dth e g r e end o o ro fh i scou r ty a r d ,w i t hou tg e t t in gth es l ig h t e s tr e sp o n s ef r omin s id e .I nth ee n d ,w es l ip p e da n o t eu n d e rth edoo r ,andw e n to f ft oC a f eD om e .I ns p i t eo fth i s ,inaf ewm o n th sw ew e r ea b l etoc o l l e c ta f ewth o u s a n df r an c sw h i chw ou lda l lowu stos h owc o n c r e t er e s u l t sa tth ef a l lm e e t i n ga n dth ep o s s i b i l i ty o fa c h i e v in gou rp l an .Th em on eyc am em o s t lyf romr e c e n t lyem ig r a t e dJ ew s ,w h oh a df a tw a l l e t sa n d r e l a t iv e lyl ib e r a li d e a s . B u tinth ef a l l ,w a rb rok eo u t ,andi tw a sn olo n g e rf e a s ib l et oo rg a n i z eag ro u po fin t e l l e c tu a l s . *** I n M a r ch H i t l e ro c c up i ed C z e ch o s lo v a k i a ,w h i c hh a db e end e f e n s e l e s ss in c eM u n i c h .N ew r e fu g e e sa r r iv edinP a r i s ,a ndsom eo fth o s ew h oh a da r r iv e de a r l i e rs t a r t e dl e av i n gfo rc o u n t r i e so v e r s e a s . F r an c en olo ng e rf e l te i th e rw e l com ingo rs e c u r e ,a n dt h o s ew h oc o u l d ,m o v e do n . Th ef i r s ttol e av ew e r eth er i chJ ew sw h oh a dl e f tI t a lyw i than e s te g g ,a n dw h oh a dn od i f f i c u l ty e i t h e rg e t t i n gv i s a so rp ay i ngfo rth ev oy a g e .V i s a sf o rS o u th Am e r i c aw e r ee a s ytog e tw i thb r ib e ry .A U n i t e dS t a t e sv i s acou l db eh adl eg a l lya slo n ga sth ea p p l i c an tc o u ldp ro v eth a t ,i nc a s eo fn e ed ,h ec o u ld s u p p o r th im s e l fw i thou tr e cou r s etog ov e rnm e n ta s s i s t a n c e .W h a tas t r a n g ep l a c et h eU n i t e dS t a t e si s , w h e r eb r i b e sdon ' tw o rk ,ando f f i c i a l sw o r rya b o u tp e o p l ed y in go fh u n g e r !C om p a r e dtop e o p l eo fo th e r n a t io n s ,I t a l i an sh ad an e a syt im e en t e r i n gth eU n i t e dS t a t e s ,b e c a u s e M u s s o l in ih a dp r o h ib i t ed em ig r a t io n ,soth equo t aw a sop enfo rtho s ef ewI t a l i a n sw h ow e r ea l r e a d yo u t s id eth eI t a l i a nb o rd e r sa n d w e r einap o s i t i ontor e qu e s tav i s a . Am o ngth ef i r s th o t e l stoem p tyo u tw a sth ev e ryr e s p e c t a b l er e s id e n t i a lH o t e lS a in tJ am e se t d 'A lb a n y ,o nth eR u ed eR iv o l i ,n e a rP l a c ed eJ e a n n ed 'A r ca lo n gth eTu i l l e r i e s ,w h e r ean um b e ro f w e a l t h yJ ew sf romTu r ina nd M i l anh adp i t c h e dth e i rt e n t s .Th e s ep e o p l ew e r en o t a b l efo rth e i rs t a tu si n I t a l i a ns o c i e ty ,andth e i rw e l l fu rn i sh e dw a l l e t s . Am o n go th e r s ,th e r ew a sth ef am i lyo fP r o f .F u b in i ,th e m a th em a t i c i anf romTu r in ,a sw a sth ef am i lyo fG iu s e p p eC a l a b i ,t h eow n e ro fS a nP e l l e g r in oo fm in e r a l w a t e rf am e ,a sw e l la ss om eo fth eO l iv e t t if am i lyf romI v r e a ,k n ow nfo rth e i rty p ew r i t e r s . Ik n ewth e Fub in i sb e s t ,b e c au s eth e yh a dtw os o n sw h ow e r ea b o u tm ya g e . Th ef am i ly c om b in e da b und an tm a t e r i a lr e s ou r c e sw i t ha c ad em i cs u c c e s sa n ds c i e n t i f i cr e n ow na n d-a n dth i sw a s n o ta sw e l l k now n-l ib e r a lth ink ingan dc h a r i t a b l es en t im e n t .W h e no n eo fo u rg ro u po fs tu d e n t so r r e c e n tg r a d u a t e sfoundh im s e l finf i n an c i a ls t r a i t s ,h ek n ewth a tb yg o in gtoth eF u b i n i sh ew o u ldf i n d u n d e r s t a n d ingandf in an c i a la s s i s t a n c e .W h e nl i f einF r an c eb e c am ed i f f i c u l t ,th eF u b i n i sh e lp e ds ev e r a l 11 7 o fth e i rf r i e n d simm ig r a t et oAm e r i c abys en d in gth er e q u i r e ds umo fa b o u t$ 2 , 0 0 0toa nAm e r i c a nb a n k inth en am eo fth e i rp ro t ég é ,soth a th eco u ldd em o n s t r a t ef in a n c i a lin d e p en d e n c e . A n dth i sw a sno tt h eon lyt y p eo fs u p p o r tth eF u b in i sp ro v id e dfo rth ep e o p l ea ro u n dth em .Th ei r' v o lum ino u spu r s eco u ldb ecoun t edonfo rs u p p o r tw h e nm o n e yw a sn e ed e dfo rl i b e r a la n dc u l tu r a l c au s e s ,a n das ub s t an t i a lp o r t iono ft h efu n d sth a tIc o l l e c t e dfo rm yin t e l l e c tu a la n t i f a s c i s tg ro u pw a s d o n a t e db yth em . Th et a s t e so fth eI t a l i anu pp e rm id d l ec l a s sh a db e e nt r a n s f e r r e dtoth eH o t e lA lb a n y ,w i t ha l l th e i rro u t in e sandt em p e r am en tandcu s tom s .Th eF u b in i sb r o u g h tac o n s id e r a b l ep ro v i s io no ft ru f f l e sto Am e r i c at osw e e t e nth et r i a l so fex i l ew i t ht h ejo y so fP i edm o n t e s ec u i s in e .O n c e ,a tasm a l lr e c e p t io ni n th e i rro om sinth eH o t e ld 'A lb any ,w h i l ep o u r in gc h am p ag n ein tog l a s s e sw h i c hfo rs om er e a s o nd i dn o t fu l lym e e tw i thh e rap p rov a l ,M r s .Fub in is a id ," I 'ms o r ry ,b u ty o uk n ow ,w ea r ep o o rr e fu g e e s . " D u r ingth i st im e ,th ep r in c i p a lp a s t im eo fth eyo u n g e rF u b i n i sw a stos tu d yh owt op ro c u r ev i s a s a n dr e s id e n c ep e rm i t sf rom v a r iou sco u n t r i e sa ro u n dth ew o r l d . Th e yw e r ep ro f e s s io n a lr e fu g e e s , b e com in gt ru eexp e r t sont h esub j e c t .Th e yk n ew w h omth e yc o u ldb r ib efo rth el e a s tam o u n ta tv a r i o u s o f f i c e san dco n su l a t e s .F o rtho s ew hoh adth em o n e ytot a k ea d v a n t a g eo fi t ,t h i sin fo rm a t io nw a sq u i t e u s e fu la tt h et im e . A sfo rm e ,a sIh av ea l r e a d ym en t io n e d ,th e r ew e r et im e sw h e nIw a n t e dtos t a y ,a n do th e r sw h e n Iw a n t e dtoe s c ap e .B e fo r eb e com inga c t iv e lyin v o lv e dinp o l i t i c a la c t iv i t i e s ,Ib e c am ea l a rm e dw h e n e v e r th en ew ss e em edtop r ed i c tt h eou tb r e ako fw a r ,a n dw i the v e ryv i c to ryo fF a s c i sm ,I w e n ttov i s i tth e N o r tha n dS ou thAm e r i c a ncon su l a t e s .A f t e rIs t a r t e dw o rk in ginth ea n t i f a s c i s tm ov em e n t ,Ia b an d o n e d th eid e ao fl e av ing .L e av in gw ou ldh av eb e e nt h ee q u iv a l e n to fru n n in gaw a ya n dd e s e r t in gm yp l a c eo n th eb a t t l e f i e ld . W i thev e ry m ov eH i t l e rm ad e ,un c e r t a i n tyg r ewinth em in d so fth ep e o p l e ,w h e th e rth e yw e r e F r en c hm e no rr e fug e e s .F romun c e r t a in ty ,i t ' se a s ytop a s stof e a r ,a n df e a rb e in gab a dc o u n s e l o r , r e aw a k e n edth et r a d i t io n a lh a t r edf o rt h eG e rm a n s .H i t l e rh a ds u c c e ed e dino n et h in g :h eh a dc o n v in c e d e v e ry o n eth a tth e r er e a l ly w a sa G e rm a nr a c e ,a n dth a ti t sc h a r a c t e r i s t i c sw e r ev io l en c e ,g r e e d ,a n d s ad i s t i cc r im in a l i ty . Ic o n f e s sth a t ,insp i t eo fm yb e l i e finth eeq u a l i tyo ft h er a c e sa n dm ye f fo r t stor em a inr a t io n a l ,I c o u ldn o t ,a ndIs t i l lc ann o t ,th inko fth eG e rm a n sw i t h o u ta v e r s io n .I t ’ sh a rdtoe l im in a t eth ee f f e c t so f e d u c a t io na ndh i s t o ryf romon e ' sem o t ion s .I nI t a l i a ns ch o o l sth eG e rm a n sw e r ea lw a y sc o n s id e r e dth e h e r e d i t a ry en em y ,th einv ad e r s ,th eo p p r e s s o r s ,f rom F r ed e r i c kB a rb a ro s s ato C e c c oB e p p eto G u g l i e lm o n e .Th eF r en chh adv iv id m em o r i e so fth ein v a s io no f1 8 7 0a n do fth eh a rd fo u g h tw a ro f 1 9 1 4 .C o n t em po r a ryev en t sju s tadd edtoth i st r a d i t io n a la n t i -G e rm a np r e ju d i c e .A sfo rm e ,p e r s o n a l ly , m yI t a l i a ne du c a t ionan dm yJ ew i shb a ck g ro u n dm ad ei tv e ryh a rdtod i s p a s s io n a t e lya p p r a i s eG e rm a n y a n dth eG e rm an s . I nu n iv e r s i tyc i r c l e sandam onga n t i f a s c i s t sw ew e r eab i ta s h am e do ft h e s ea n t i -G e rm a nf e e l in g s w h i c hw e r eexp r e s s edino c c a s i on a lob s e rv a t io n s .S om es a id ,"A l lo fE u ro p e ' st ro u b l e ss t emf romth ef a c t th a tJu l iu sC a e s a rn eg l e c t e dtoo c cupy G e rm a nl a n d s , "a n d" th er e a lt r a g e d yo ft h eO n eH u n d r e dY e a r ' s W a rw a st h a ttw o th i rd so fth eG e rm anpop u l a t i o ns u r v iv e di t . " Af r i en do fm in eto ldm eaty p i c a ll i t t l ean e cd o t e .I tw a sab o u taB r a z i l i a np h y s i c i s tw h oh a dg o n e tov i s i tal a bin G e rm any .H i sho s tw a sa N a z isym p a th i z e r .Th eG e rm a nb e g a nb ys ay in gh owb a dth e J ew sw e r e ,andh owi tw a sn e c e s s a rytoe x p e lth emf romth eu n iv e r s i t i e s ."G o o d .G o o d . "s a i dt h e B r a z i l i a n .A ndi tw a sn e c e s s a rytocon f i s c a t eth e i rp o s s e s s io n s ."G o o d .G o o d . "s a idth eB r a z i l i a n .A n da g o o d ly n um b e rh ad h adto b ek i l l ed ."G o o d .G o o d . "s a idth eB r a z i l i a n . Ab i ts u rp r i s eda ts u c h u n d e r s t a n d ingandag r e em en t ,t h eG e rm a na sk e d ,"B u tIth o u g h tth a ty o ud idn o ts h a r em yid e a s .Ih a d b e ento ldth a tB r a z i l i an sd on ' tund e r s t an dr a c i sm ,a n dth a tt h e yd o n ' ta p p ro v eo fo u rt r e a tm e n to fth e J ew s . ""N o ,no ,y ou ' r edo ingf in e ,b e c au s eth eJ ew st h a ty o ua r ep e r s e c u t in ga r eG e rm a n .Th et ro u b l ei s th a ty o ua r eno tk i l l ingeno ug hnon J ew i shG e rm a n s . " * * * 11 8 D u r ingE a s t e rv a c a t ionin1939I w e n ttoSw i t z e r l a n dtos e em ym o th e r .S i n c eIth o u g h ti tw a s u n s a f efo rm etog otoI t a ly ,anda tth a tt im es h ed id n ' th a v eaF r en c hv i s a ,w ed e c i d e dto m e e tinG e n ev a . W ew e r eto g e t h e rfo rabou ttw ow e ek s ,en jo y in gth eb e au t i f u lv i ew so ft h ec i tya n dt a k in gb o a tt r ip so n th el a k e . Th a ty e a r ,o nG oodF r id ay , Mu s s o l in ip ro c e ed e dt oh e ro i c a l lyin v a d eA lb a n i a ,ac o u n t ry w h i c h a l r e ad yb e lo ng edtoh im .Soou rv a c a t ion w a st ro u b l e db yrum o r so fw a r .B u tt h e n ,w a sth e r ea n yw e ek th a ty e a rw h enth e r ew e r en ' trum o r so fw a r ? I nSw i t z e r l andp eop l ew e r eno tv e ryw o r r i e d ,a n dIh a v etoa dm i tt h a to nm yp a r t ,i td id n ' te v e n o c cu rto m eth a tth a tC h am b e r l a inandD a l a d i e rm ig h td e c l a r ew a ro nth e i rf r i e n dM u s s o l i n iju s tb e c a u s e h ew a n t e dt obu rn i shh i sim ag eam ongI t a l i a n sb yin v a d in gaB a lk a nc o u n t ryth a th ea l r e a d yc o n t ro l l e d . A f t e ra l l ,t h eB a lk an sw e r etoth ee a s t ,an di nth o s ed a y s ,o f f i c i a l sinL o n d o na n dP a r i slo o k e df a v o r a b ly o na n ya c t iv i tyd i r e c t edtow a rd sth ee a s t . I nF r an c e ,onth eo th e rh an d ,ev e ry o n ew a sv e ryu p s e t .W h enIc ro s s e dt h eF r e n c hb o rd e rtov i s i t af r i e n d ,Ifoundth a tev e r y on eexp e c t edth a tw a rw a simm in e n t .M u s so l in ih a dv io l a t e da"g e n t l em a n ' s a g r e em e n t "t h a th eh a dm ad ew i t hEng l an dc o n c e rn in gth es t a tu sq u ointh eM e d i t e r r a n e a n .I ts e em e dth a t th eF r e n c hs t i l lf e l tth a ta"g en t l em an ' sa g r e em e n t "w i th M u s s o l in iw a sas e r i o u sm a t t e r ,a n dint h e i r g u l l ib l em in d s ,th eyb e l i ev edt h a tt h eEng l i s hg o v e rnm e n th a ds ig n e di tfo rr e a s o n so th e rth a ntoa p p e a s e a n dco o p e r a t ew i t hth eF a s c i s t s . D u r ingth i stu rm o i lm ym o th e ran dIv i s i t e dth ep a l a c eo fth eL e a g u eo fN a t io n s .T o u r i s t sh a v e a lw a y sh a dasp e c i a lf e e l i ngfo rru in s .R u in sa r ea lw a y ss ad .B u tc o n t em p o r a ryru in sa r et r a g i c .Th e p a l a c eo fth eL e ag u eo fN a t i on sh adju s tb e enb u i l t .I ti sar a r ee x am p l eo fg o o dm o d e rna r c h i t e c tu r e . Ag u id es h ow edu sa roundth ev a r iou sro om s ,s h ow e r in gu s ,a sa l lg u id e sd o ,w i thd e s c r ip t i o n so fth e i r d e t a i l sa n dth e i ro r ig in a li n sp i r a t ion .B u tw h i l eth ea v e r a g eto u r i s ti sr a th e rin d i f f e r e n ta b o u tw h e th e rth e m a rb l eo nth ew a l l so fac e r t a inch u r chcom e sf romC a r r a r ar a th e rth a nf r omV e r o n a ,Iw a sm ov e db yth e g u id e ' se x p l an a t ion s .O n eroom w a sd e co r a t e dw i t hw o o dd o n a t e db yth eP e r s i a ng o v e rnm e n t ,a n o th e r w i ths t o n ef r om A rg en t in a .I ts e em edth a te v e ryc o un t ryinth ew o r ldh a dt r i e dtoo u td oth eo th e ri n d e co r a t in gw h a tw a stob eaP a l a c eo fP e a c e ,w h i c hn ow ,w i thi t sd e s e r t e dro om s ,w a sr e d u c e dtol i t t l e m o r eth a nah i s to r i c a lcu r io s i ty . Iw a sso m ov edth a ta sso o na sIg o tb a ckto m yh o t e lIw ro t ea na r t i c l ef o rth eV o i c e.Th en e x t d a yI m a i l e di ta longw i ths om epho tog r ap h s .Ith o u g h ti tw o u l dm a k ea m a g n i f i c e n ta r t i c l efo rt h ec en t e r o fth eth i rdp ag e .A f t e rab r i e fd e s c r ip t iono fth eb u i l d in g ,I m a d es om eo b s e rv a t io n so ni t ss ig n i f i c a n c e , a n dIe n d edbyhop ingth a tth eP a l a c eo fth eL e a g u eo fN a t io n sm ig h tt ru lyb e com eap a l a c eo fa n o rg a n i z a t i o no fn a t ion s ,an dno to fano rg a n i z a t io no fg o v e rnm e n t s . B a ckinP a r i s ,Ilook edth r oug hth er e c e n ti s su e so ft h eV o i c e,a n dw a ss u rp r i s e dtof in dth a tm y a r t i c l eh a dn o tb e enp r in t ed . Wh e nIs awth ee d i to ra g a in-m yf r i e n dP l a to -h eg a v eth ea r t i c l eb a ckt o m efo ra" f ewco r r e c t ion s . ""Th inki tov e ra g a in ,M in o r i , "h es a id ,a sh eh a dd o n eo ns im i l a ro c c a s io n s . Ith o u g h ti tov e rag a i n ,bu tfoundt h e r ew a sn o th i n gIw a n t e dtoc h a n g e .R a th e r ,Iw a sv e ryp ro u do fth i s l i t e r a ryd e l iv e ry .Th ea r t i c l ew a sn ev e rp r in t e d . A su su a l ,Ia t t r ibu t edth i sl i t t l eep i s o d etoa n o th e ra s p e c to fC omm u n i s tin t r a n s ig e n c e .Ir e a l ly c o u ldn o tu n d e r s t andh ow m ya r t i c l ecou ldt ro u b l eth es e n s i b i l i t i e so fS t a l in ' sp r i e s th o o d ,e sp e c i a l lys in c e u n t i lth a tt im e ,L i tv inovh add i r e c t edth eS o v i e tU n io n ' sfo r e ig np o l i c yinas t r i c t ly" s o c i e t a l " w a y . Ith o u g h tth a tP l a to ' sr e fu s a ltop r in tw a sd u etop o t e n t i a lp o l i t i c a lr am i f i c a t io n s . B u t Mo lo t ovsu c c e ed edL i t v inov ,a n dS o v i e tfo r e ig np o l i c yc h an g e dd i r e c t i o na f t e rM u n i c ha n d th ein v a s io no fC z e cho s lov ak i a .Th eed i to r so fth eV o i c e ,w h ow e r eb e t t e rin fo rm e do n Mo s c ow ' sp o s i t io n th a nIw a s ,d idn o tw a n ttop r in tcom p rom i s in gs t a t em e n t sins u p p o r to ft h eL e a g u eo fN a t i o n s . W h i l eIw a sinG en ev a ,Iag a inv i s i t e dth eF e r r e ro s .Iw a n t e dtoa s kfo rth e i rs u p p o r t ,b o th m o r a l a n df i n a n c i a l ,fo rth ep ro sp e c t iv eo rg an i z a t io no fa n t i f a s c i s ti n t e l l e c tu a l s . W h e nIt e l e p h o n ed ,M r s . F e r r e roa n sw e r ed ,andsh einv i t ed m etoc om ev i s i tt h en e x te v e n in g ,s ay in gth a tth e r ew o u ldb eo th e r f r i e n d sv i s i t ing .Ia c c ep t ed w i thp l e a su r e ,th in k in gth a tI m ig h tm ak es om ec o n t a c t sinth ea n t i f a s c i s t c omm u n i tyinG en ev a . 11 9 W h enIa r r iv edIfound m y s e l fi nth ec om p a n yo faty p eo f" a n t i f a s c i s t "w h o s ee x i s t e n c eIh a d fo rg o t t e n ,a ndth a tInolong e rr e cog n i z e da ss u c h :d i s t in g u i s h e dp ro f e s so r s ,m em b e r so fth ed i p lom a t i c c o rp s ,a l lm o r eo rl e s sf am ou sin t e l l e c tu a l s .A to n ep o in te v e ry o n es a tinc om fo r t a b l ec h a i r sa n dth e n , c o n t iq u e r eom n e si n t e n t iq u eo rat en eba n t ,F a th e rF e r r e ro ,m a yp e a c eb ew i t hh im ,aw a r d edu st h e u n e x p e c t e dp r iv i l eg eo fh e a r ingh imr e adf romac h a p t e ro fab o o kth a th ew a sw r i t in g .Th eb o o kw a s a b o u tT a l l e y r andandi tw a sev en tu a l lyp u b l i s h e d ,b u tIn ev e rr e adi t .Ih a dh a dm yf i l lf romth ec h a p t e r th a t ,l ik ei to rno t ,Ih adb e e nfo r c edtol i s t e ntoth a tn ig h t . I tw a sno th ing m o r eth anth eth e o ryo fl e g i t im a cyb a s e do nth eth e o ryo ff e a r .A c co r d in gto F e r r e ro ,al e g i t im a t eg ov e rnm en ti sno ta f r a ido fb e i n go v e r th row n .Th e r e fo r e ,i td o e sn o td oc r a z yth in g s . O nth eo th e rh and ,ani l l eg i t im a t eg ov e rnm e n ti sa f r a i da n dd o e sc r a z yth in g s .E x am p l e :N a p o l e o n .B u t a ni n t e l l ig e n tandhon e s tm ansu cha sT a l l e y r a n d ,u n d e r s t a n d st h er e a s o n sth a tin d u c edN a p o l e o ntos h e d s om u c hb loo d ,an dw i s e l yp lo t stor e e s t a b l i s hth el e g i t im a t em o n a r c h y ...an de v e ry o n el iv e sh a p p i ly e v e ra f t e r . Ith inkth a tth es uppo r t e r so fD a r l a na n do fO t t ov o nH a p sb u rgc o u ldn o th a v efo u n dab e t t e r ju s t i f i c a t io nth anth i st h eo ry : th eth eo ryo fc o n s e rv a t i sm .A f t e rth i s ,R a d i t z ad e c l a r e dh i sin t e n t i o nto w r i t eab o o ken t i t l ed :"D i s cu s s ion sw i thG u g l i e lm oF e r r e ro . "Il e f ts o o na f t e rw a rd stoa l lowth eF e r r e ro R a d i t z af am i l i e stoc om p l e t eth e i rr e c ip r o c a lr i tu a l so fm u tu a la dm i r a t io ninth ein t im a cyo fth e i rd om e s t i c co m p o u n d . B u tI w en tb a ckaf ewd a y sl a t e rfo rw o rk .F e r r e r oh a dan am ea n ds om em o n e ya n dI w a s in t e r e s t e dinh i sn am eandh i sm on eyfo rm yo rg a n i z a t io n .Iw a sr e c e iv e db yM r s .F e r r e ro w h og a v em e n e i th e rh e rn am eno rh e rm on ey .M ay b es h es u sp e c t e dth a tIh a ds om ec o n t a c tw i thth eC omm u n i s t s ,a n d th a tI w a sno tab igsuppo r t e ro fl eg i t im a cy .I n s t e ad ,s h eg a v em es om eb o ok sw r i t t e nb yh e rs o nL e o , a sk in gth a tIr e adandd i s t r i bu t eth em . W es pok eo fth i sandt h a t .Th eco n v e r s a t io nm o v e dtoth es u b j e c to fSw i t z e r l a n d .Is a idth a ti t w a sab e a u t i fu lp l a c e ,bu tt h a tt h eSw i s sw e r eb o r in g .S h es a idth a tSw i t z e r l a n dw a sa ni d e a lp l a c ew h i c h F r an c eco u ldh av eb e com ei fno tf o rth er e v o lu t io n .A tth e s ew o r d sIto o km yl e av e . * * * A tth eb eg inn i ngo fth esumm e rIl e a rn e dth a tP a r i sw o u ldb eh o s t in gs om ein t e rn a t io n a lm e e t i n g s o fa n t i f a s c i s ts tu d en t sin m id -A ug u s t .Th ein f o rm a t io nc am ef romaC omm u n i s tw h oc a l l e dh im s e l fV ig n a u a r t i e rL a t inw h e r ew em e te v e ryn ig h t . w h ojo i n e dm eandsom ec o -w o rk e r sf r omth el a ba tac a f einth eQ V ig n aw a safo rm e rw o rk e rw hoh a dd e s t ro y e dh i sh e a l tha n dg a in e dav a s te d u c a t io nd u r in g fo u r t e e ny e a r sinp r i son .A f t e rh i sr e l e a s e ,h eh a de s c a p edtoth eUSSRw h e r eh ew a sw e l c om e dw i tha l l th eh o n o r s :as an a to r iuminC r im e aandc o u r s e sin M a rx i s tc u l tu r ea n dr e v o lu t io n a ryp r a x i s .I ts e em e d th a th ew a sab igsho tint h eC omm un i s th i e r a r c h y .H ew a sn o tem p lo y e db yth eI t a l i a np a r tya sw e r e m o s to fth eComm un i s t sth a tIh adm e t .H ew a sa t t a c h e dd i r e c t lytoth eC om in t e r n . H ew a st a sk ed w i t ho rg an i z ingy o u n gp e o p l ea n ds t u d e n t s ,a n dth o u g hh eh a dn e v e ra t t e n d e d u n iv e r s i ty ,h ek n ew m u ch m o r eabou tI t a l i a nu n iv e r s i t i e sth a nd idIo rm yf r i e n d s .H i sk n ow l e d g eo f h i s to rya n dph i lo sophy w a ssu chth a th ec o u ldo u t s h i n ea n yin t e l l e c tu a l .H ew a sap l e a s a n tm a n ,w i tha b ro a da n dd e e pou t lo ok .H i sd e c i s iv em a n n e rw a sv e i l e db yr e g r e ta th a v in glo s tth eb e s ty e a r so fh i s y o u thinp r i s on . W h a tad i f f e r en c eb e tw e e nV ig n aa n dth es t e r e o ty p eo fa C om in t e rna g e n te n v i s io n e db yth e m id d l e c l a s s !H ew a say oung m an .(H el a u g h e dw h e np e o p l ec a l l e dh imay o u n gm a n . " I t ' st ru e " ,h es a id , "N o o n ec o un t sm yfou r t e e ny e a r sinp r i s o n ,a n dth e yth in kI 'ms t i l ly o u n gb e c a u s eIw a sy o u ngw h e nI w a sa r r e s t e d . " )H eh adad e l i c a t ech a r a c t e r ,p o i s e da n dd i s c r im in a t in g ,a l th o u g hf a rf romb e in gr e f i n e d . Asw e e tm a n ,bu tw h op r ob ab lyw how ou ldn o th a v eh e s i t a t e dtou s ev io l e n c etoa c com p l i s hh i sid e a l s . Ir em em b e ron eev en ing ,a sw ew e r es t ro l l in ga l o n gt h eB o u l e v a rdS t .M i c h e lw i thV ig n a ,w es aw a nE n g l i s hg i r lwhow a ss t ay inginth eho u s ew h e r eh ew a sl iv in g .H ew a sa t t r a c t e dt oth i sg i r l .V ig n al e f t th eg ro u pf o ra m om en tande n t e r eda p h a rm a cyto p u r c h a s eth en e c e s s a ryi t em sfo ra n yp o s s ib l e e v e n tu a l i ty .B u tsoonth eC om in t e rnag en tem e rg e df r omth ep h a rm a cyloo k in gs ad ,h o l d in gato o th b ru s hin 12 0 h i sh a n d .H eh adn ' th adth ecou r ag etoa s kfo rac o n d omb e c a u s eth ec l e rkinth ep h a rm a cyw a saw om a n . H ee n t e r e da no th e rph a rm a cyandc am eb a ckw i thab a ro fs o a p .S u c hi sth es ads to ryo fth es h yC om in t e rn a g e n t ! L e a v inga s id eth eg o s s i pab ou tth ei n t im a t ea f f a i r so ft h eC om in t e rna n dg oin gb a ckto m ys to ry .. .. I nA ug u s tItookp a r tintw om e e t ing so fa n t i f a s c i s ts t u d e n t s .Th ef i r s tw a sa m e e t in go fM a rx i s t sw h i c hw a s in t e n d edfo rso c i a l i s t sandC omm un i s t s .I w e n to n lyo n c e ,a sas p e c t a to r ,a sI w a sc o u l dn o tc l a imtob ea M a rx i s t .Th eon lyou t com eo fth i sm e e t in gw a sas p l i tb e tw e ent h es o c i a l i s t sa n dth eC omm u n i s t s .Th e s o c i a l i s t sr e fu s e dt oc o l l ab o r a t ew i thth eC omm u n i s t sw h omth e ya c c u s edo fin t r a n s ig e n c e ,h y p o c r i s y ,e t c . A n dth e yw e r en o tw ro ng ,y ouh av etoadm i tth e yw e r er ig h t ,g iv e nth a tth eC omm u n i s t sh a dh a dth eg a l lto r e fu s etov o t einf av o ro ft h e Mun i chp a c t ,a n dh a dh a dth eh y p o c r i s yto w a n tt om a in t a inas em b l a n c eo f u n i tyw i t hth eso c i a l i s t swh oh ado f f i c i a l lyv o t e dfo rth ep a c t . Iw a sm o r ea c t iv einth es e cond m e e t in g .I tw a sa m e e t in go fth eR a s s em b l em e n t Mo n d ia ld e s E t u d i a n t s( I n t e rn a t ion a lS t ud en tU n ion ) .P o n t e c o rv o ,M an u e l l ia n dIp a r t i c ip a t e do f f i c i a l lya sth eI t a l i a n d e l e g a t io n . W ep r ep a r edar ep o r tw h i chIp r e s e n t e da to n eo ft h em e e t i n g s .A l s op a r t i c ip a t in ga n d s p e a k in g ,in d ep e nd en to fu s ,w a sB a t t inof romG iu s t i z iaeL i b e r t áw i th w h om w em a in t a in e de x c e l l e n t a n df r i e n d lyr e l a t io n s . S t u d en t sf r oma l lov e rth ew o r ldto o kp a r ti nt h e RM .E m e e t in g .E v e ryd e l e g a t i o np r e p a r e da r e p o r tw h i c hw a st r an s l a t e din toF r en cha n dE n g l i s ha n dw a sm im e o g r a p h edf o rd i s t r ib u t io ntoa l lth e d e l e g a t e s .P on t e co rv o ,M a nu e l l ian dIlo c k e do u r s e l v e sinaro om w i thth r e ety p ew r i t e r s . W ew e r e in t e r r u p t e don lyby M anu e l l i ' sw i f ew hob ro u g h tu sm e a l s .Th er e s u l tw a sah u g etw e n ty p ag ep a p e r e n t i t l e dL ac u l tu r edan sl ' i t a l i efa s c i s t e. Th e n ,w i tht h em anu s c r i p tund e rm ya rmIw e n ttoth eo f f i c e so ft h eRMEtos u bmi ti ttob ety p ed . Th eo f f i c e sw e r elo c a t edo nth eg roundf lo o ro fab u i ld in go nB o u l e v a rd A r a g o ,n e a rD a n f e r tR o c h e r e a u . Ifo u n ds om etw en tyv e rybu syy oungp e o p l e-som ew e r ety p in g ,s om ew e r et r a n s l a t in gf romF r en c hin t o E n g l i s ho rv i c e v e r s a ,som ew e r em im eog r a p h in g ,s om ew e r ec o l l a t i n g .Th e yw o rk e dd e v o t e d lyfo re n d l e s s h o u r sa n dn ev e rs e em edtot i r e .Th ea i rw a sf i l l e dw i thth ea rom ao fa rd e n ty o u tha n de n t h u s i a sm . Av e ryy oungSp an i shg i r ls toodo nto po fat a b l eb a t t l in ga m im e o g r a p hm a ch in e .H e rb l a cke y e s b l a z e d ,a n dsh elook edl ik esh ew a ss t and in go nab a r r i c ad e .H e rh a n d sa n df a c ew e r eb l a ck ,a n ds h eh e ld atu b eo fin ka si fs h ew e r eb r and i sh ingab om b . I n d i an s ,C h in e s eand Am e r i c an sw o rk e ds id eb ys id einth e i rc omm o ns t ru g g l ea g a in s tF a s c i sm a n da g g r e s s ion .Iw a simm ed i a t e lyd r a f t ed ." R e s t e si c i ,c am a r a d e ,i lyau nta sd ec h o s e safa i r e ;t r a v a i l l e a v e cn o u s. "Is a ta tal a r g et ab l etoh e lpc o l l a t em im e o g r a p h eds h e e t s . Th e r ew e r er e p o r t so nth e c o n d i t i o n so fs tud en t sf romth efou rco rn e r so fth ee a r th : A u s t r i a ,G e rm a n y ,E n g l a n d ,S p a in , Am e r i c a , B r a z i l ,I n d i a ,th eD u t c hI nd i e s ,C h i n a... S om eI n d i a ng i r l sins a r i sw e r es i t t in ga tth et a b l ew i th m e .W e s p o k eF r en c handEng l i sh ,bu tconv e r s a t io nw a sr e d u c e dtot h em in im umn e c e s s a rytoex p e d i t eth ew o rk . W ew e n to u ttog e th e rfo rm e a l s ,andt a lk eda b o u tth ep o l i t i c a ls i tu a t io ninv a r i o u sc o u n t r i e s .Th e yc a l l e d m eM in o r i ,o rth eI t a l i ancom r ad e . Th em e e t i ngb eg antw oo rth r e ed a y sl a t e r .E v e ry th in gw a sr e ad y :th er e p o r t sw e r es e to u to na t a b l efo rth ed e l eg a t e s .Ev e rycoun t ryan de v e ryp o l i t i c a lt e n d e n cy w a sr e p r e s e n t e d ,f romc o n s e rv a t iv e E n g l i s ht oC omm un i s t s .On lyth eF r en chs o c i a l i s t sw e r em i s s in g . Th o s ew e r ein t en s eandh a ppyd a y s .Th e yw e r eth el a s td a y so ff r e ed ominF r a n c ea n d ,a si fI c o u ldf o r e s e et h efu tu r e ,Ien joy edth emc om p l e t e ly .Iw a sp l e a s e dtob eam o n gp e o p l ef roma ro u n dth e w o r ldw h o ,inl a rg ep a r t ,s h a r ed m yv i ew s .Th ef a c tt h a tIw a sc o n t r ib u t i n g ,in m yow nsm a l lw a y ,toth e m e e t in ga n dinal a rg e rs en s e ,toth ein t e rn a t io n a lm o v em e n ttos av et h ew o r ldf romth ed a n g e r so fF a s c i s t a g g r e s s io na n dim p e r i a l i s topp r e s s i on ,g av em eg r e a ts a t i s f a c t io n . Th o s ew e r ep e rh ap sth eh a pp i e s td a y so fm yl i f e .Iw a sh a p p ytod os om e th in gu s e fu lfo rag r e a t e r c au s e .Ih a dth ep l e a s u r eo fb e ingimm e r s edinaf r i e n d lye n v i ro nm e n t ,w i th o u tlo s in gm yin d e p en d e n c e a sa ni n d iv idu a l .Th e s ep l e a su r e sa r eg r e a t e rt h a nan yp u r e lyp e r s o n a ls a t i s f a c t io n .W h a ti sm o n e y ,w h a ti s th es a t i s f a c t iono fap e r s o n a lc a r e e rcom p a r e dt oth ep ro fo u n ds a t i s f a c t io no ffu l f i l l i n go n e ' ss o c i a l r e sp o n s i b i l i t i e s ,a nda s sum ingon e ' sapp ro p r i a t ero l eins o c i e ty ? 12 1 Th i si showIf e l tintho s ed ay s ,a n dth e s ea r et h ek in d so ff e e l in g sth a ta p p e a rt oh a v et h ep ow e r toim p e lp eop l ein toa c t io nands a c r i f i c e .I tm ays e eml ik ef a n a t i c i smtos om e .B u tth o s ew h oh a v e p e r s o n a l lyf e l ti t ,ev enb r i e f ly ,k nowth a ti ti sas o l em na n dp r o fo u n ds o u r c eo fin s p i r a t io n . O n eo fth em o s tin t e r e s t in ga sp e c t so ft h em e e t in gw a sth ep a r t i c ip a t io no fth ec o lo n i a lp e o p l e s . Th e r ew e r er e p r e s en t a t iv e sf romI ndo ch in a ,f romI n d i a ,f romth eD u t c hI n d i e s ,f romB u rm a ,f romSy r i a . Th e i rr e p o r t sspok eo fy e a r so fs t rug g l ea n do fs tu d e n to rg a n i z in gfo rn a t i o n a lin d e p e n d e n c e .T h e i r n a t io n a l i s tf e e l ing sw e r ea lw ay st ing edw i t ham o r eo rl e s sf i e ryb r a n do fr a d i c a le x t r em i sm . Th er epo r t sth a tg o tth em o s te n th u s i a s t i cr e c e p t i o nw e r ef romth eS p a n i s ha n dC h in e s e d e l e g a t io n s . Th e Sp an i shr ep r e s en t a t iv ew a sa y o u n gm a nw h ow a ss tu d y in gm a th em a t i c sa tth e U n iv e r s i tyo fM ad r ida tt h eb eg inn ingo fth ei n s u r r e c t io na n dw h o ,a tth ee n do fth ec iv i lw a r ,w a s c omm a n d e ro fad iv i s ion .H espok etou sab o u tth ew a ran da b o u tth eco n d i t i o n so fth eS p a n i s hf ig h t e r sin th eF r e n chin t e rnm en tc am p s .I ts e em edth a tth eF r e n c hR e p u b l i ch adv o t e dtop ro v id ee n o u g hm o n e yto a l l owad e c e n t ,i fno tcom fo r t a b l el i f etoth eh e r o e so fS p a n i s hw a rw h oh a db e e nin t e rn e dinth ec am p s . B u ti tw a sn o tc l e a rw h e r et h i sm on eyh adg o n e . D u r ingth em e e t ing ,th ed e f en d e r so fo f f i c i a lF r a n c ec o u l ds t i l lc l a imth a tth ein h um a n e c o n d i t i o n sw e r edu et oani n i t i a ll a cko fo rg a n i z a t io n ,s in c eh u n d r e d so fth o u s an d so fp e o p l eh a dc r o s s e d th eb o rd e rinju s taf ewd a y s ,obv iou s lyw i th o u th a v i n ga sk e di fa c c omm o d a t io n sh a db e e np r e p a r e df o r th em .B u tth e s eex cu s e sd idno tho ld ,a n di ts o o nb e c am ec l e a rth a t ,in t e n t io n a l lyo rn o t ,th eF r e n c h g ov e rnm e n tt r e a t edth eSp a n i shr e fug e e sa se n em yp r i s o n e r sa n dn o ta sf r i e n d lyg u e s t s .S in c et h eS p a n i s h h a db yn owlo s tt h e i rs t rug g l eandh adnop ow e r fu lp r o t e c to r s ,th e yh a dnoa d v o c a t e stoo v e r s e eh owth e y w e r eb e in gt r e a t edo rm i s t r e a t e d .Th e r ew a sl i t t l ew ec o u ldd of o rth ema tt h eRME m e e t in ge x c e p tp a s s s om em o t io n so fp ro t e s t . Th eC h in e s ew e r er ep r e s e n t edbyay o u n gw om a nw h os p o k ea b o u tth eu n iv e r s i t i e sth a th a d m ov e din toc en t r a lC h in at oe s c a p eth eJ ap a n e s ein v a d e r s ,a n dab o u ts tu d e n t sw h oro am e dth ec o u n t ry s id e in c i t in gp e a s an t stod e f en dth em s e lv e sag a in s tth ea g g r e s s o r s .If e l tth a tC h in aw a saw a k e n in ga n dth a ti t s e n o rm o u sp o t en t i a len e rg yw a sabou tt ob e c om eo rg a n i z e d . 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TXLWEHLQJDVFDUHIXO+HHYHQGDUHGWRVSHQGHYHQLQJVDWWKH'RPHRUZDONLQJRQWKH%RXOµ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e f e a t(S umm e r19 40 ) O n em o rn ing ,un l ik em o s tm o rn in g sw h e nth er a d ios e rv e du pth eu s u a lc o lo r l e s sr e p o r t s ,Iw ok e u ptoa na n n o un c em en tt h a tth eG e rm an sw e r ein v a d i n gD e nm a rka n dN o rw a y .D u r in gth ef i r s tf ewd a y s i tw a sn o tc l e a rw h a tw a sh app en ingand w ew e r ep r om i s edan a v a lb a t t l e .E v e n tu a l ly w eh e a rdth a ta n a v a lb a t t l ew a si np r og r e s s . Th e nw eh e a rdth a tth eb a t t l ew a so v e r .R e s u l t :th eG e rm a n so c c u p i e d D e nm a rka n dNo rw ayandw e r einnohu r rytol e a v e . Th e"m i l i t a ryc r i t i c s "exp l a i n edth a tth eG e rm a ns t r a t e g i s t sh a dm a d ea g r a v em i s t a k e by a b an d o n in gth e i rd e f en s iv epo s i t io n :"N owth a tth ew o l fh a sl e f ti t sd e n ,i tw i l lb ee a s ytok i l l . "Th ep u b l i c w a ss orh a p s od i ca tth ei d e ao fth ed e a tho fth ew o l ft h a ti ts e em e dl ik eth ew o l fw a sa l r e a d yinth eb a g. B utth ew o l fs e em edv e rycom fo r t ab l eo u t s id ei t sd e na n di tw a sa p p a r e n t lyinv e ryg o o dh e a l th ,a n di t c e r t a i n lyw a sno tw o r r i eda bou ts t r a t eg i ce r ro r s . Th eF r en chandEng l i sh w e r esoc o n v in c e do ft h e i rs u p e r io r i tyth a te v e nin t e l l i g e n tp e o p l ef e l l in tot h et r a po fb e l i ev inginth i sG e rm ans t r a t e g i ce r ro r .I tw a sap e r io do fg e n e r a lo p t im i sm ,d u r in gw h i c h t im eth eN o rw eg i ana rm yw a sl iqu i d a t ed . Id idno tsh a r eth eg en e r a lop t im i sm ,a n dw i thth et r a in in gI ' dr e c e iv e dr e ad in gI t a l i a nF a s c i s t n ew s p a p e r s ,Ib a s edm yop in iononth ef ewf a c t sr a th e rth a no nt h em a n yw r i t t e nw o rd s .Iw a sinat e r r ib l e m o o da l lw e ek .Th enon ee v en ing ,w h i l eIw a sl i s t e n in gtoanI t a l i a nl a n g u a g eBBCp ro g r am ,th ep ro g r am w a sin t e r r u p t ed toanno un c eth ev i c to rya tN a rv ik .Iso m u c hw a n t e dtoh e a rg o o dn ew sth a tIg a v eto o m u c him p o r t an c etoth en ew so fth a tun im p o r t a n tl o c a le p i s o d e ,th in k in gi tw a sth es t a r to fal a rg e r o p e r a t i o n .Th eg en e r a len th u s i a smw a ssog r e a tth a tw eo rd e r e dc h am p a g n ea n dt o a s t e dt oth es u c c e s so f th eA l l i e do p e r a t ion . A f t e rN a rv ik ,Iw a sop t im i s t i cfo raf ewd a y s .Th e n ,s e e in gth a ti tw a so n lyal o c a lv i c to ry ,Id e s p a i r e da g a in .Iw a ssod i s tu rb edth a tIcou ldn olo n g e rw o rk .I nth ef i r s tp l a c e ,Id idn o tf e e la ta l ls a f ei f th eG e rm a n sw e r etoo c cu pyth ecoun t ry ,o ri fF r a n c ew e r eto m a k ep e a c ew i th H i t l e r .M an yo fm y f r i e n d sw e r eincon c en t r a t i onc am p s .Iw a sn o tv e rye x p o s e d ,a n dIw a sp ro t e c t e db ym ys c i e n t i f i cw o rk , b u tI w a sa f r a i dth a ti fth eF a s c i s t sd ido c cu p yth ec o u n t ry ,I m ig h ts h a r eth ef a t eo fm yf r i e n d s .Th e a u th o r i t i e sm ig h tf ind m yn am ea s so c i a t e dw i thth e i r sinth er e co rd so ft h eI t a l i a nc o n s u l a t ea n dIto o , m ig h te n du pinac am p . B e s id e sw o r ry ingabou tm ys a f e ty ,Ito r tu r e dm y s e l fb e c a u s eId id n ' th a v eac l e a rid e aa stom y r e sp o n s i b i l i t i e s .Th ethoug h to ft h eN a z i sw inn in gth ew a rm a d em ec r in g e .B u tIth o u g h ti tu s e l e s sto e n l i s tint h eF r en cha rm yinw ho s ecomm a n d e r sa n dm a n ag em e n tIh a dn of a i th ,a n dw h i c hg a v em e d o u b t sab o u tm yro l ei np r ev en t inganen em yv i c to ry .T h ed o u b t sth a th a da s s a i l e dm ed u r in gth ew a rin F i n l a n dr e tu rn e dtoto r tu r em eag a inev en m o r ein t e n s e ly . Iw e n ttot a lktoJo l io t .Ito ldh imth a te v e ryo n c eina w h i l eIth o u g h to fl e av i n gF r an c e ,g iv e n th a tb ys t a y ingI w a sexpo s edtoa l lth ed i s c om fo r t sa n dr i s k so fan a t i o na tw a rw i th o u tt h es l ig h t e s t o p p o r tu n i tytoa c tinth ed e f en s eo fF r an c eo rm y ow np r in c ip l e s .J o l io ta g r e e dw i th m e .H ea sk e dm et o k e eph i sc omm en t scon f id e n t i a ls in c eh e"d id n ' tw a n tt ob ea c c u s edo fd e f e a t i sm . "B u t ,inh i so p in io nt h e 14 1 w a re f fo r tw a sin com p e t en tandheh im s e l fw a sf ru s t r a t e d ,s in c eth er e s e a r c hp ro b l em sth a th ew a sg iv e n w e r en o tv e ryin t e r e s t ing ,a ndh i sow np r op o s a l sw e r elo s tinav a cu umo fe i th e rb u r e au c r a cyo rs a b o t a g e . Th i sconv e r s a t iond idno tg iv em ea n yc o n so l a t io na n dIb e g a ntoth in km o r es e r io u s lya b o u t l e av in g .D u r ingth i sp e r i odIh a rd ly w en ttoth eL a b o r a to ry .I 'mn o ts u r ew h a tId ido rh owIw a s t e dm y t im e ,b u tIw a sa lw ay sbu s y .Iw en ttoth eI t a l i a nc o n s u l a t etoh a v em yp a s s p o r te x t e n d e dtoi n c l u d eth e U n i t e dS t a t e s .Th i sw a sr a t h e re a sys in c eIs t a t e dth a tIw a n t e das tu d e n tv i s aw h i c hw a so u t s id eth eq u o t a . Ig a v em yu n c l epow e ro fa t to rn eysoth a th ec o u l dm an a g em yl e g a la f f a i r si nI t a ly .Iw ro t etoe v e ry o n eI k n ewi nAm e r i c atoa skfo rana f f i d av i ta n dfo rajo b .Ic om p l e t e dal a rg en um b e ro fa p p l i c a t io n s . M e a nwh i l eth eG e rm an sb e g anth e i ro f f e n s iv ea g a in s tH o l l a n da n dth eN e t h e r l a n d s ,tow h i c hth e A l l i e sr e sp o nd ed w i thaf l u r ryo fin s o l e n tr em a rk s ,w h i l ea b a n d o n in gth ei rd e f e n s iv ep o s i t io n so nt h e F r en c ha n dB e lg i anbo rd e r .A g a in ,w el i s t e n edc o n s t a n t lytoth er a d io .W eh e a rdn ew sf r omF r an c e , E n g l a n d ,I t a ly ,and G e rm any .Th en ew sf rom G e rm a n ya n dI t a ly w a sb a da n da f t e raf ewd a y sth eb a d n ew sw a sc o n f i rm edont h eA l l i edr ad i o . Ir e a l i z edth a tt h e r ew a sno m o r et im etoc a lm lyp l a nad e p a r t u r eo rt ow a i tfo rth er ig h t o p p o r tu n i ty .Som eon eto ld m eth a tth ePo r tu g u e s ec o n s u l a t ew a st h eo n lyo n es t i l lg r a n t i n gv i s a s ,s oo n e m o rn in gm ym o th e ran dIw en t ,an dbo tho fu sg o tv i s a sfo ra m o n th ' sr e s id e n c ei nP o r t u g a l .Th en ex td a y w h e no n eo fm yf r i end sw e n ttoapp lyfo rth es am ev i s a ,h ew a stu rn edd ow nb e c a u s eo fn ewi n s t ru c t i o n s f romL i sb o n .Ig o tat r an s i tv i s ath roug hS p a ina u tom a t i c a l ly ,a f t e ro n lyaf ewh o u r si nl in ea tth eS p a n i s h c o n su l a t e .Th enI w en tt oth eBanqu ed eF r a n c e tog e tp e rm i s s io ntoe x p o r tm ym o th e r ' sm o n e yby c o n v e r t in gi tin t oe s cudo s . M ym o th e rw a sa f r a i dtog otoPo r t u g a la n dw h e nIth in ka b o u tth ec o n d i t io n si nw h i c hIa r r iv e d, Ic an ' tb l am eh e r .Sh etho ug h ti tw a sac r a z yid e a .M e a nw h i l eth eG e rm a n so c cu p i e dt h eL ow l a n d s ; R o t t e rd amw a sh a l fd e s t ro y edbya i rr a i d s ;th ek in go fB e lg iums u r r e n d e r e da n dw a sa c c u s e do fb e t r a y a l b yth eF r e n c hn ew sp ap e r s ;andth eEng l i shc l a im e dth e yw e r eth ev i c to r so fth ed e f e a ta tD u n k i rk . I tw a sat e r r ib l es i t u a t ion .Th ech o i c e sw e r ee i th e rt of ig h to rtol e a v e .Io f t e nw e n ttos e eL u s s u , w h ow a sfu l lo from an t i ci d e a s ,and w an t e dtof ig h t .B u tth eF r e n c hw o u ldn o ta l l owh im ,a n dh ew a s v e ryu p s e t .H ew a sh um i l i a t edbyth ee n f o r c e din a c t iv i ty w h i l et h eF r e n c ha rm yw a se n g a g e din " f ig h t in g "o u ren em i e s . Ib e c am econv in c edth a tth e r ew a sn oa l t e rn a t iv etol e a v in g .B u th ow ?A safo r e i g n e rIn e ed e da p o l i c ep e rm i ttog oanyw h e r e ,bu tIw a sa f r a i dtoa s kfo ro n efo rf e a ro fb e in gt u rn e dd ow n .S in c eIh a d d e c l a r e dm y s e l fab en e f i c i a rytoth er ig h to fa sy lum ,inth e o ryIh a ds om eo b l ig a t io n sto w a rdth eF r e n c h a rm y .A si th app en ed ,ju s tdu r i ngtho s ed a y sIw a sc a l l e dinf o rap h y s i c a la n dd e c l a r e df i ttoren d e r s e rv i c ea sap r é s ta ta i r e. Th em i l i t a rys i tu a t i onb e c am em o r ea n dm o r ec r i t i c a l . W h e nth eI t a l i a nr a d i os a idth a tth e G e rm a n sw e r ea tA bb ev i l l e ,h av ings ep a r a tedth ea rm yinth eL ow l a n d sf romth er e s to fth et ro o p so n F r en c ht e r r i t o ry ,Ik n ewth a ta l lho p ew a slo s t . Id e c id edtof i r s tm ak esu r eth a tm ym o th e ra n dM i l aw e r es a f e .M ym o th e ra sk e dfo rap o l i c e p e rm i ttor e tu rntoI t a lyand M i l aa sk edfo rap e rm i tt os t a yw i tha nu n c l einB r e t a g n e ,w h i c ha tth et im e s e em e ds a f e .W i th inaw e e k ,m ym o th e rr e c e iv e dh e rp e rm i ta n dl e f tf o rF l o r e n c e .Id idn o th e a rf romh e r a g a inu n t i la f t e rth ew a r . M e a nwh i l eIw a st ry ingtof inda w a ytoge ttoP o r tu g a l .I w a ss u p p o s e dtol e av ew i thaf r i e n d , A n d r e aL e v i a l d iw ho ,l ik em e ,h adaPo r t u g u e s ev i s a ,b u tn op e rm i ttol e a v eF r a n c e .W ed idn o tw a n tto a skth ro u g hno rm a lch ann e l s ,fo rf e a rw ew o u ldb et u rn e dd ow nb e c au s ew ew e r eo fd r a f ta g e . W ew e r eto l dth a ti tw ou ldb equ i c k e rt oa skth em i l i t a rya u th o r i t i e sd i r e c t ly .T hi so f f i c ew a si n th eb u i ld i n go fth eM in i s t r yo fI n t e rn a lA f f a i r sa n dtob ea dm i t t e dw en e ed edal e t t e ro fr e c omm e n d a t io n . W h ow o u l dg iv eu son e ?W ecou ldno ta ska tth eL a b o r a to ry :i tw a sn o tr ig h ttoa s kth emtoh e lpu sl e av e . S o . . . . S ow ew en ttot h eo f f i c ew i tho u tal e t t e r .W ew e r en o ta dm i t t e d ,b u tw ef o u n do u tw h a tk in do f l e t t e rw a sn e ed e d :al e t t e rf romth eI t a l i a nc o n s u l a t e !A n dth i sw a sju s taf ewd a y sb e fo r eI t a lyd e c l a r e d w a ro nF r a n c e ! 14 2 A n d r e aandIh adnocon t a c t sa tth ec o n s u l a t efo rv a r io u sr e a s o n s .B u tA n d r e ar em em b e r e dth a ta g i r lh eh a dk now ninh ig hs choo lh a dm a r r i e da C o u n tw h ow a sa tt h eem b a s s y .W et e l e p h o n e dth e C o u n t e s sa n dsh er e c e iv edu sinav e ryt a s t e fu la p a r tm e n tinal a rg ea t t i co nth eP l a c eV e n dom e .S h e o f f e r e du sco ck t a i l s ,a ndto l du sth a tth es i tu a t io ninF r a n c ew a sd e s p e r a t e .S h es a i dth a tI t a lyw a sa b o u tt o d e c l a r ew a r ,andth a tt h eI t a l i and ip l om a t sw e r eem b a r r a s s e da b o u ti t .S h es a idt h a tfo rth em om e n t ,th e S o v i e tU n io nh adwo n ,h av ingd em on s t r a t e dp o l i t i c a la s tu t en e s s ,a n di n c om p a r a b l ed ip lom a cy . Th en ex td ayw ew e r eadm i t t edin toa no f f i c eo fth eI t a l i a nEm b a s s y .C o u n tS oa n d S or e c e iv e d u sk in d lya n dto ldu sth a th ew ou lddow h a th ec o u ldt oh e lpu s .B u th ew a sa f r a i dth a ti fw ew e n ttoth e F r en c hm i l i t a ryw i t har e c omm end a t ionf romh im ,w ew o u ldb esh ip p e dd i r e c t lytoac o n c en t r a t io nc am p . W e to l dh imth a th ed idno tund e r s t an dth eF r e n c hm i l i t a ry .S oh eg a v eu sth el e t t e r ,w i thth es e a lo ft h e em b a s s yb u tnos ig n a tu r e ,b e c au s eh ep r o b a b lyd idn ' tw a n ti tk n ow nth a tju s taf ewd a y sb e fo r eH i t l e r ' s v i c to r io u se n t ryin t oP a r i s ,h eh adh e lp edtw oa n t i f a s c i s tJ ew se s c ap etoP o r tu g a l . Th el e t t e rh adth ed e s i r e de f f e c t ,th a ti stos ay ,w ew e r ep o l i t e lya dm i t t e dtoth eo f f i c e ,o u rr e q u e s t w a sa c c ep t e d ,a ndi tw a st r an sm i t t e dtoth ea p p ro p r i a t eo f f i c e...b u tH i t l e ra r r iv e db e fo r ew er e c e iv e da n a n sw e r ! O no n eo ft h el a s tf ewd ay sIw en ttor e q u e s tav i s aa tt h eAm e r i c anc o n s u l a t e .B yth a tt im e ,Ih a d g a th e r e da l lth en e c e s s a rydo cum en t s .Th ec o n su llo o k e da tth em ,v e r i f i e dth a tth e yw e r ec o r r e c t ,a n d a b o r a to i r eC u r i e,h ei s su e d a sk e dm ew h a tIw a sdo inginP a r i s .A ss o o na sh eh e a rdth em a g i cw o rd s ,L th ev i s a .Th eI t a l i anqu o t aw a sop en . Th e r ew e r eon lytw oth ing sIn e ed edb e fo r el e a v in g :av a c c in a t io na n dm yq u o t an um b e r ,w h i c h h a dtob es en tf romth eG en e r a lC on s u l a t ein N a p l e sam e r efo rm a l i ty . Im a i l e d ar e tu rnp o s t a g ep a i d t e l e g r amto N ap l e sandg o tav a c c in a t i on ,t h in k in gth a tI w o u ldb el e a v in gfo r Am e r i c ainth en e x tf ew d a y s . Iw en ttov a r iou st r av e lag en c i e stol o o ka ts ch e d u l e sa n dp o s s i b lytob u yat i c k e tfo r Am e r i c a . B u tth es ch e du l e sw e r eb e i ngk ep ts e c r e ta sap r e c a u t io ntop ro t e c ta g a in s ts u bm a r in ea t t a ck s .S oIg o t n o th in ga c c om p l i sh ed .A tt h i spo in t ,Id e c id e dt ot a k ea m o r em o d e s ta n dc au t i o u sa p p r o a ch :Iw e n ttoth e B o nM a r c h eandbo ug h tab i cy c l e . A f t e rm ym o th e rl e f t ,Is t ay ed w i th M i l a ,s e e in gh e rb e tw e ena p p o in tm e n t sa tth ev a r i o u s c o n su l a t e s .O n ed ayw ew e n ttog e th e ro na ne r r a n d .W h i l es h ew a sru n n in gh e re r r a n d ,It a lk e dtoth et a x i d r iv e r .Ito ldh imIw a sI t a l i an . " I t a l i en ?Th eI t a l i an sa r eag r e a tp e o p l e !Th e ys h ow e di ta tC a p o r e t t o !Th e yd o n ' tw a n tt of ig h tfo r d i r tyc ap i t a l i s tandim p e r i a l i s tg ov e rnm en t s .B u tth i st im e ,w eF r en c hh a v ea l s ou n d e r s to o d .W h ys h o u l d w ef ig h tfo rD a l ad i e randd eR ey n aud ?Th e ya r ea sF a s c i s ta sH i t l e r !I 'maC omm u n i s t ,y o uk n ow .M y d u tyi stof ig h tag a in s tD a l ad i e r ,R ey n au d ,L a v a la n dc om p a n y .B u ti fH i t l e ra r r iv e stom o r row w ea r e g o in gtof ig h tag a in s tH i t l e rw h i l etho s eb o u rg e o i sw i l lm a k ep e a c ew i thh ima n da g a in s tu s .Th e r ea r e m i l l io n so fu s ,an dw ew i l lf ig h tH i t l e rw h e nh ei sh e r e ,b u tn o tu n d e rth i sr o t t e ng o v e rnm e n t . " Th eendo fF r an c ew a sins ig h t ,a n dw ee x p e c t e dth eG e rm a n sa n yd a y .M i l ad e c id e dtog oto B r e t a g n e ,a n dIn ev e rs awh e rag a i n .Ig av eh e rs om eo fm ym o th e r ' sm o n e y ,w h i c hIh o p e dh e lp e dh e rin h e rl a s td a y s .U n fo r tun a t e l yIh av enod o u b tth a ts h ed idn o ts u rv iv e .C o u l daP o l i s hJ ewin G e rm a n o c cu p i e dF r an c eh av eanyo th e rf a t e ? * * * Im ad etw oim po r t an td e c i s ion s .Ip a ck e dm ys u i t c a s efo rp o s s i b l ei n t e rnm e n tinac o n c en t r a t io n c am p ,a n dIk ep tm yb i cy c l er e a dyfo ra ne s c ap e .Th i sw a y ,If e l tp r e p a r e dfo ra n ye v e n tu a l i ty . F o rm anyd ay s ,r e fug e e sp a s s edth ro u g hth ec i ty ,l e a v in gth ew a rz o n e st og os o u th .C a r sf i l l e d w i thp e o p l ew en tth roug ht h es t r e e t s ,som ew i th m a t t r e s s e sa n da l lk in d so fd om e s t i ci t em so nth ero o f . P o o rp e o p l e ,th oug h tth eP a r i s i an s . B u tev e ryd ayt h ef ron tw a sapp ro a c h in g ,a n ds o o nth eP a r i s i a n ss t a r t e dtol e av ea sw e l l .W h y ? Tok e epu pth ef ig h t ?O u to ff e a ro fth eG e rm a n s ? Wh e r ew e r et h e yg o in g?W h ok n ow s ?Th ey w e r e g o in gso u th .Soonth e r ew e r enom o r et r a in s ,a n dth o s ew h ol e f th adt of in dth e i row nt r a n s p o r t a t io n . 14 3 M yI t a l i anco l l e ag u e sandIw an t e dtog oto o .T h eth o u g h to fw a i t in gfo rH i t l e rt oa r r iv ew a sn o t a ta l la p p e a l ing .B u ta sfo r e ig n e r s ,w eco u ldn o tl e g a l lyl e av ew i th o u tap e rm i tf romth ep o l i c ea n dth e r e w a sn ow a ytog e ton e .Th epo l i c ew e r ep a r a ly z e db y al a cko fo rd e r s ,o rb yc o n t r a d i c to ryo rd e r s ,o rb y u n c e r t a in tya stow h a tg ov e rnm en tth eym ig h th a v etoa n sw e rtoth en e x td a y . P o n t e c o rv o ,Lu r i aandIh adou rb i c y c l e sr e a d y ,b u tw ep u to f fth ed e c i s io nf romd a ytod a y . Th e n ,w h e ni tw a sobv iou sth a tt h eF r en chr e s i s t a n c eh a dc rum b l e d ,M u s s o l in id e c l a r e dw a r .Id idn ' tth in k h ew o u ldd oi t ,b e c au s eIthoug h ti tw a sn o tinh i sow np e r s o n a lin t e r e s to rinth ein t e r e s to fI t a ly .I tw a s th es t a binth eb a ckbyw h i c hI t a lylo s ti t sd ig n i tya n dw h a tw a sl e f to fi t sin d e p en d e n c e . Th en ex td ay ,P a r i sw a sb l ank e t e db yd e n s esm o k e .I tw a sb l a cka san ig h tm a r ei nth es em i d e s e r t e dc i ty :anapo c a ly p t i cv i s ion .Th e r ew e r et h o s ew h os a idth a ta l lth eg a so l in einth eL u r i a tyh a d b e enb u rn e d ,andt ho s ew h os a idth a tt h eG e rm a n sh a dd ro p p e dasm o k e s c r e eni no rd e rtoc ro s st h eS e in e u n d e t e c t e d . Th a td ayIl e f tth ep en s ionconv in c edth a ta sa ne n emyI t a l i a n ,Iw o u ldb ein t e r n e db yth eF r en c h . Is to p p e da tth eMa i r i et os e ei fin s t ru c t io n sh a db e enp o s t edt oth a te f f e c t ,b u tth e r ew a sn o t h in g . E v id e n t ly ,t h e r ew e r etoo m anyI t a l i an sa n dth eF r e n c hg o v e rnm e n th a do th e rth in g stoth in ka b o u ti fth e F r en c hg o v e rnm en ts t i l lex i s t ed .I w en ttoth eC a p o u l a d efo rb r e ak f a s t .I nth ed i s t a n c eIc o u ldh e a rth e s o u n do fc a nnon s . R e y n aud ' sn ewg ov e rnm en tw an t e dtoc o n t in u etod e f e ndth ec i ty . Hes e tu pad e f e n s iv el in e s o u tho fP a r i sanden c ou r a g edth eev a cu a t io no fth ec i ty .Th em in i s t e r sw e n ttoTo u r s .Th eem p lo y e e so f th eL a b o r a to ryl e f t .S to r e sw e r ec lo s ed .Th ec i tyw a sem p ty .B u ti tw a sn o ta ne v a cu a t io n i tw a sar iv e r o fp e o p l ew i thnod e s t in a t ion ,a m a s sm ig r a t io n ,ato t a lro u t . Th ed e f e a tc o u l dn o th a v eb e en m o r e com p l e t e . Th ef ron tc am ec lo s e ran dc lo s e r .P e o p l ew e r el e a v in go nfo o ta n db yb i c y c l ei nth ev a inh o p e th a tth e yc o u lde s c ap eth eG e rm ano c cup a t io n . Th eh o rd e so fr e fu g e e sw e r ejo in e db yth ef i r s td iv i s io n s o fs o ld i e r sinf l ig h taf ewt ru ck sa ndsom eo ldt a n k sh e ad i n gd ow nth eB o u l e v a rdS a in tM i c h e ltow a rd P o r t ed 'O r l é an s . Th eG e rm an sh adc ro s s edt h eS e i n en o r tha n ds o u t ho fP a r i s . * * * W el e f tth a tn ig h t .I tw a sJu ly12 th . W ew e r eth r e e ,o nb i cy c l e sPon t e c o rv o ,L u r i a ,a n dm eth r e eI t a l i a n s ,th r e eJ ew s ,th r e es c i e n t i f i c r e s e a r c h e r s .A l lt h r e eo fu sthoug h tth a tw ew o u l db ei ng r e a td a n g e ru n d e raN a z i f a s c i s to c c u p a t i o n .W e p r e f e r r e dtob ea r r e s t eda sI t a l i an sbyth eF r e n c h ,t h a na sa n t i f a s c i s tJ ew sb yth eG e rm a n s . W ed idn 'tk nowth a tF r an c ew a sc om p l e t e lyb ro k e n .W eh e ad e dso u th ,th in k in gw em ig h tg iv e o u r s e lv e su ptoth eF r e n chpo l i c eo ren l i s ti nt h ea rm y .W ed idn ' tk n ow w h a tf a t eaw a i t e du s ,b u tth e u l t im a t ed e s t i n a t ionfo ra l lth r e eo fu sw a s Am e r i c a .I tw a ss om ew h a tu n u s u a ltoh e adf o r Am e r i c ao na b i c y c l e ,b u tth ef a c t sshowt h a ti tw a sp e r f e c t lys a t i s f a c t o ry ,b e c a u s ew ea l lg o tth e r einth ee n d . B u tou rm o s timm ed i a t ec on c e r nw a so u rd o c um e n t s .O nth em o rn in go fo u rd e p a r tu r e ,Ih a d g o n etoth eU n i t edS t a t e scon su l a t et os e ei fm yn um b e rh a da r r iv e d .B u tc omm u n i c a t io n sh a db e en b ro k e no f fw h enI t a lyd e c l a r edw a r .Ia sk e das e c r e t a r ytos en dm yp a p e r stoB o r d e au x .A c cu s tom e da sI w a stoF r e n c hbu r e au c r a cy ,If e l tth a tIm ig h ta sw e l lh a v es h o u tedm yr e q u e s ttot h ew i n d s . Th econ s u l a t einP a r i sw a sp a r t i a l lye v a cu a t e d ,a n dId id n ' tth in ka n yo n ew o u ldb ea b l etoa c to n m yr e q u e s t .I w a sno ty e tin i t i a t ed toth ee f f i c i e n cyo f Am e r i c ans e c r e t a r i e s !S h ep ro b a b lyl e f tth a t a f t e rn o o no rth en ex td ayc a r ry ingm ydo c um e n t sinas u i t c a s ei nab igAm e r i c a nc a r ! Tha ta f t e rn oonb e fo r el e av i ng ,m yf r i e n d sa n dIw e n tt oth eF r e n c hp o l i c etor e q u e s tap e rm i t .A c h u r l i s hp o l i c em anto ldu sw ecou ldno tl e a v e .A n o th e r ,m o r es ym p a th e t i co n eto l du s ,"G e to u ta sf a s ta s y o uc an !E v e ry body ' sl e av ing ,andy ou rs i tu a t io ni sm o r ed a n g e ro u sth a nth e i r s ...O fc o u r s e ,Ih av e n ' t s a idath in g ,andI 'm no tr e s pon s i b l efo rw h a tm ig h th a p p e nt oy o u . " S ow ew en ti l l eg a l ly .W ed e c id edtol e a v einth eev e n i n g ,th in k in gth a tw ew o u ldn ' tb es e e ninth e d a rk .I tw a sau s e l e s sp r e c au t ion ,s i n c et h eF r e n c hp o l i c eh a dd i s i n t e g r a t e d ,a n dth es t r e e t sw e r eju s ta s 14 4 c row d e da tn ig h ta sth eyw e r edu r ingth ed a y .W ea g r e edn o ttos p e aks oth a to u rI t a l i a na c c e n t sw o u ld n ' t a t t r a c ta t t e n t io n ,a ndtok e e pad i s t an c eb e tw e e ne a c ho th e rs ot h a ti fth em i l i t a ryp o l i c es to pp e do n eo fu s , th eo th e rtw ocou ldg oona h e ada si fw ed idn ' tk n owh im . Af ewhou r sb e fo r edu sk ,w ea t ea tth eC a p o u l a d e :Is t i l lr em em b e r ,w eh a ds a u e rk r a u ta tt h e c o u n t e r .Th enw el e f tinad r i z z l ingr a in .Aw om a n ,s e e in gu sp a s s ,s h o u t e dtou sf romad o o r ,"Y o ua r e b r a v e ,l e a v inga tth i shou ri nth er a in . " " I t ' sno tb r av e ry ,M a d am e ,i t ' sf e a r , "w ew o u ldh a v el i k edtoa n sw e r . Ih a dabou tf i f tyk i lo so fl u gg ag eo nm yb i c y c l e :a l lm ys umm e rc lo th e s ,c a n so fm e a t ,a w o o l sw e a t e ra n dac o a t .Iev enh adm ypo r t ab l ety p ew r i t e rt i e dtoth eb a c ko fth eb ik e .B u tm o s tp r e c i o u so fa l l w a sth ee n v e l op ew i th m ydo cum en t sp a p e r stos h owth a tIh a db e enb o rn ,th a tIh a ds tu d i e d ,th a tI w o rk e da tth eC u r i eL abo r a to ry ,th a tIh a daf e l low s h ipa tth eC a i s s ed eR e ch e r ch e s,p a s sp o r t ,id e n t i ty c a rd ,P o r tu g u e s ev i s a ,an da l lth en e c e s s a ryd o c um e n t stoc o n t in u en e g o t i a t io n sw i thth e Am e r i c a n c o n su l a t e . O u rimm ed i a t ed e s t in a t i on w a sO r l e a n s .W h y ?B e c a u s eO r l é a n sw a sint h es o u t h ,a n de v e ry o n e w a sg o in gth e r e . W er e a c h edth ePo r t ed 'O r l é a n s ,w h i c hw ek n ew w e l lb e c a u s ei tw a sc l o s etoth e u n iv e r s i ty .O nth eo th e rs i d eo ft h ePo r t ed 'O r l é a n sw ew e r ec au g h tinat r a f f i cj am .Th et r a f f i cw a s im p r e s s iv e .I tlook edl ik ee v e ryw h e e l edv e h i c l eint h ec i tyw a so nth ero a d ,a n dt h e yw e r ea l lg o in ginth e s am ed i r e c t ion :c a r s ,t ru ck s ,t ax i s ,h e a r s e s ,f i r et ru c k s ,c a r t s ,h o r s eb u g g i e s ,o ldc a r r i a g e s ,h a n dc a r t s ,b a b y c a r r i a g e sth a th adb e e npu l l edou to fth ea t t i ctoc a r ryt h elu g g a g e ...o ldp e o p l ei nw h e e l c h a i r sp u s h e db y th e i rc h i ld r en...b i cy c l e s ,t and em s...a rm o r e dc a r s ,m i l i t a ryt ru c k s ,am b u l a n c e s... A tf i r s t ,th e r ew e r ep eop l ew a lk in gs low lyo nth es i d ew a lk ,c a r ry in ge i th e rad i s p ro p o r t io n a t e ly sm a l lp a ck a g e ,o rasu i t c a s eth a tw a st ooh e av y .Th eb i c y c l ew a sth eb e s tfo rmo ft r a n sp o r t a t io n .W h i l e c a r ss om e t im e sg o ts tu ckint r a f f i cj am s ,w ec o u l ds l ipb e tw e e nth em .A n dw ed id n ' tn e edg a s ,w h i c hw a s h a rdtog e ta f t e raf ewd ay s . W ep ed a l edt i ll a t ea tn ig h t inth ed r i z z l in gr a in .W ew e n ts low lyinth ed a rk n e s s ,p u s h in go u r b i c y c l e su p h i l ltos av een e r gy .A tabou ttw ointh em o rn in gw ed e c id e dtos to p ,a n dw el a yo nth eg r a s s b yth es id eo fth ero ad .I tw a ss t i l ld r i z z l in g .W es l e p taf ewh o u r s ,a n dw h e nw ew o k ea td aw n ,w ec o u l d s e em i l e sa n dm i l e so fs l e e p ingp eop l e ,sp a c e ds oc lo s eto g e th e rth a tw eh a dtob ec a r e fu ln o ttos t e po n a n y o n e . A ss oona si tw a sl ig h t ,w ew e r eb a cko no u rb i c y c l e s .T h e r ew a sl e s st r a f f i c ,a n df ew e rt r a f f i c j am s .A to n epo in t ,w es away oung m a nb l e ed in gb yth es id eo fth ero a d ,s u r ro u n d e db yac r ow do f h e lp l e s sp e o p l e .H ew a sab i cy c l i s tw hoh a db e enh i tb yac a ra n dh a di n ju r e dh i sh e ad .W es to p p e da n d L u r i a ,w h ow a sado c to r ,a dm in i s t e r edab i to ff i r s ta i d ,t ry in gtos p e a ka sl i t t l ea sp o s s ib l e .I tw a sn o ta b a din ju ry .A m i l i t a ryt ru cks topp edan dp i c k e du pt h ey o u n gm a n . O nth eev en ingo ft h es e co ndd ayw ew e r ec lo s et oO r l e a n sa n dw eb e g a ntof e e ls a f e r .W eh a d t r a v e l l e da b ou t100k i lom e t e r s ,andw ed i d n ' tth in kth eG e rm a n sw o u ldg e ts of a r .S ow ed e c id e dtog oto th eF r e n chau th o r i t i e stos t r a ig h t e nou to u rd o c um e n t s .W o u ldth e ya r r e s tu sfo rl e av in gP a r i sw i t h o u ta p e rm i t ? P a s s ingth roug hav i l l ag ew es away o u n gm a nd i r e c t in gt r a f f i ca tac ro s s ro a d s ,r e ro u t in gc a r s , t ru c k san db i cy c l e sa roundth etow n .Th etow n s p e o p l es to o do nt h es i d ew a lkw a t c h in gth i sr iv e ro fp e o p l e a n dv e h i c l e s . Mo r ea s t on i sh edth anf r ig h t e n e d ,t h e yh a dth ed a z e de x p r e s s i o no fs p e c t a to r sa ta n e x e c u t io n . W eto ldt h ey oungt r a f f i cd i r e c to rth a tw ew a n t e dtos p e a ktoth em a y o r ."Th em ay o r ?Th e r eh e i s , "h es a id ,po in t ingtoag roupo nth es id ew a lk .W ew e n ttot h em a y o r ,a n db e g a nt e l l in gh imo u rs to ry . "G o o de v e n i ng , Mon s i eu rl eM a i r e ,w ea r eI t a l i an . . . " "O k ,ok , "in t e r rup t edth em ay o r ,w h ow a sc om p l e t e lyu n in t e r e s t e dino u rn a t io n a l i ty ," i fy o uw a n t tos l e eph e r et on ig h t ,g ototh es choo l . W ep u ts om es t r awo nth ef lo o r sinth ec l a s s ro om s .. . . " O b v iou s lyh ed idn ' tw an t edtoa r r e s tu so rt os h o o tu s .W ew e n ttoth ee l em e n t a rys ch o o l .O nt h e d o o rw a sa no l df l ag w i thth ein s c r ip t ion ,"L ib e r t é ,É g a l i t é ,F r a t e rn i t é. "Th eF r e n ch R e p u b l i cw a ss t i l l h o s p i t a b l e ,o f f e r ingb ed so fs t r aw ,b e c au s eth e r ew a sn o th i n gb e t t e r . 14 5 W ew e r eg r a t e fu lfo rth a ts t r aw . W es l e p td r e s s ed ,am o n gs n o r in gm e n ,w om e n ,a n dc ry in g c h i ld r e n .Th en ex tm o rn i n gw ea sk edou rm a y o rfo ral e t t e rs a y in gth a tw eh a ds p en tth en ig h tint h e s ch o o l ,a n dt h a tw eh a dno tp e r fo rm eda c t so fs ab o t a g eo ro th e rc r im e s .H ed ida sw ea sk e d ,m ak in gth r e e c o p i e s ,o n efo re a cho fu s . W ew en ton .I nas to r ew eboug h tb r e a dan ds om ec a n so flo b s t e rw h i c hw a sth eo n lyc an n e dfo o d l e f t .W eh e a d edfo rTou r s . Tow a rd sno onLu r i ah a daf l a tt i r e .Ap a s s in gh o r s ec a r ts to p p e da n dc a r r i e dh ima n dh i sb i c y c l e toth en e x tv i l l ag ebyth eb ank so fth eLo i r e .W h i l eh ew a sf ix in gh i st i r e ,Iw e n ttobu yc ig a r e t t e s .A tth e s to r eth e r ew a saf a tl ady ,ind e s p a i r ," Iw a sh e r ein' 1 4 ,b u tth i st im ei t ' sm u c hw o r s e .In e v e rs aws o m a nyp e o p l eonth ero ad .Y ous e eso l d i e r st r a v e l l in ga l o n eo rinsm a l lg ro u p s .W h a tam e s s !W h a t ' sg o in g toh a p p e n ? " O u t s i d eth el i t t l es to r e ,c a r s ,a rm yt ru c k sa n dt a n k sw e r ep a s s in g . Th es o ld i e r sm a d ero omo n th e i rt ru c k sfo rw om en ,e s p e c i a l lyi ft h eyw e r ey o u n ga n dp r e t ty .Is awag i r ls i t t i n go nat a n k ,t a lk in gtoa s o ld i e rw h o s eh e adw a ss tu ckou to fth etu r r e t .E v e ry o n ew a sh e ad in gs o u th . "W h e r ea r ey oug o ing ? "Ia sk ed . " Id on ' tk now ,andy ou ? "w a sth ein v a r i a b l ea n sw e r . "M e ?I 'mg o ingtoAm e r i c a ,Ith in k . " "B yb i cy c l e ? " "Y e s ,byb i cy c l e . " I nth a tv i l l ag e ,w ew e r eto l dth a tina b o u ttw e n tyk i lom e t e r sth e r ew a sat r a ins t a t i o nw h e r ew e m ig h tf in dat r a in .W ed e c id edtog o ,bu ti tm e an tc r o s s i n gar iv e r .W ea r r iv e da tth eb r id g eju s ta st h e v i l l a g e r s ,in w h a ts e em edtob eani so l a t e da n ds p o n t a n e o u sa c to fr e s i s t a n c e ,w e r em in in gi ttos to pth e G e rm a n s .A m aninc iv i l i a nc l o th e sa nda na rm b a n da s k e dfo ro u rd o c um e n ts .Is to p p e da n dm o t io n e dt o m yf r i e n d stoc ro s sth eb r i dg e .Ishow edh imth ep a p e r sf romth eC a i s s eN a t i o n a l ed eR e ch e r c h e ,th e M in i s t e r ed el 'É du c a t io nN a t i on a l e ,e t c .w h i c hs e em e dtos a t i s fyh im .H es h ow e dm eth ero a dtoth en e x t s t a t io n ,b u tto ldm eth a tt h e r ew e r enom o r et r a in s . Ic ro s s edth ero adtoc a t chup w i th m yf r i e n d s ,b u tIn e v e rfo u n dth em . Af ew m on th sl a t e rI l e a rn e dth a tIh adt ak enth ew rongro ad ,a n dth a tth e yh a dw a i t e dfo rm efo rh o u r s .Ip e d a l e da sf a s ta sI c o u ld h o p i ngtoc a t chupw i thth em ,andIa r r iv e db r e a th l e s sa n dd e adt i r e da tt h es t a t io n ,w h e r eIfo u n d n e i th e rf r i e n d sno rt r a in . A f t e rd r ink ingag l a s so fw i n e ,Itu rn e db a ck. . .Iw a n t e dtos e eB lo i s ,To u r sa n dt h ec a s t l e so fth e L o i r e .A nin v e t e r a t eto u r i s tl ik em edo e sn o tm i s saf am o u ssi t eju s tb e c a u s ei t ' saf ewe x t r ak i lom e t e r so n ab i c y c l e !Iw a sw o r r i edth a tt h ey m ig h th a v eb low nu pth eb r id g ew h i l eIw a sg o n e .B u tth eb r id g ew a s s t i l lin t a c t . Ip e d a l edonm yow n ,dow nth eb a n k so fth eL o i r e . I nth ecoun t ry s id eonth eo t h e rs i d eo fth er iv e r ,s om ea rm yd iv i s io n sw e r es t i l ls c a t t e r e da ro u n d .I c am etoat a nkcom p any .Th eso ld i e r sw e r ec am p e dn e a rav i l l a g e ,w a i t in g .W a i t i n gfo rw h a t ?Th e r ew e r e s of ewo rg a n i z edd iv i s ion s ,andth ed i so r d e rw a ss oc om p l e t e ,th a tth e yw e r ep ro b a b lyju s tw a i t in gto s u r r e n d e r .B u tIs t i l lh op edth a tan ewl in eo fr e s i s t a n c ew o u ldb ee s t a b l i s h edo nth eL o i r e ,a n dth a tth e b r id g e sw o u ldb eb l ow nup . Ifo l low edth er iv e rtoB lo i s .A lo n gth ero a dac o lum no ft ru c k sc a r ry in gB r i t i s hs o ld i e r sp a s s ed m ea tr e g u l a rin t e rv a l s .Th eso ld i e r sw e r es e a t e dina no rd e r lyf a sh io n .Th e ys e em e dtok n oww h e r eth e y w e r eg o in g ,fo l low ingp r e c i s eo rd e r s .Th i sa rm yw a ss t i l lfu n c t io n in g .Ig r e e t e dth emw i thath um bu pa n d th e yr e sp o n d edbyr a i s ingth e i r s .Th ey w e r ed r iv in ga lo n gth er iv e r ,p ro b a b lyh e ad in gfo rth ec o a s tto em b a rk . B lo i si san i c equ i e tt ow n .Th eo ldb r id g eo nth er iv e rh a db e e nb l ow nu p ,b u ta n o th e rb r id g ew a s s t i l linu s e .Ip ed a l eda rou n dth etow nab i ttos a t i s fy m yto u r i s t i cc u r io s i tya n dt h e nIw e n ttoth es t a t io n tog e ti n fo rm a t ionou ta bou tth et r a in s .Iw a sto l dth a tn ot r a in sw e r eru n n in g . D i r ty ,t i r ed ,an dun sh av en ,I w en tto w h a ts e em e dtob eth eb e s th o t e lint ow ntoh a v eag o o d m e a l ,w h i c hIf e l tId e s e rv e d .Th eylook ed m eu pa n dd ow n ,b u tth e ys e rv e dm e .A f t e rd in n e rIa sk e dfo r aro omw i thb a than dt h eyl aug h eda tm yn a iv e t é .Il e a rn e dl a t e r— to ol a t e !— th a tinth ec i t i e sw h e r eth e 14 6 r e fu g e e sp a s s ed ,i tw a ssoh a rdt of i ndab e dth a tw h o l ef am i l i e sh a db e e nt a k e ni n tow h o r e h o u s e s ,k in d ly r e c e iv e db yth em ad am sandth eu su a lg u e s t s . Ig o tb a ckon m yb i cy c l ei ns e a r c ho fs h e l t e r ,h o p in gth a to u t s i d et h ec i tyap e a s a n tw o u lda l l ow m etos l e epinh i sh ay s t a ck .I n s t e ad ,Iend edu ps l e e p in go nab a go ff lo u rinab ak e r ' sa t t i c .M yd e eps l e e p w a sin t e r ru p t edbyth eso un do fex p lo s ion s .G e rm a na i r p l a n e sw e r eb om b in gB lo i s . Th en e x tm o rn ing ,Icon t inu edr id in ga l la l o n ed ow nt h eL o i r e .Is awth ef am o u sc a s t l e s ,b u tId id n o ta p p r e c i a t eth e i rb e au tya sm u cha sIw o u ldh a v eu n d e ro th e rc i r c um s t a n c e s .I ' dp e d a lfo ra nh o u ro r tw o ,a n dt h ens to pf o rh a l fanho u rtor e s ta tab i s t r oo ra lo n gth es id eo fth er o a d .Is t i l lh a dth ec an n e d lo b s t e rth a tw eh adbo ug h t ,anddu r ingth en e x tf ewd a y sIl iv e dp r im a r i lyo nth a t .Th efo o ds i tu a t io nw a s n o tto ob a dy e t ,a ndinth em o rn ingb e fo r es ix ,i tw a ss t i l lp o s s ib l etof i n db r e ada lo n gth em a inro a d s .B y g o in gaf ewk i lom e t e r so f fth em a inr e f u g e ero u t e s ,i tw a se a s ytof in da l lk in d so ffo o da ta n yt im eo f d a y . Ir e a ch edTo u r sandh e ad e dfo rP o i t i e r s .T h e r ew a ss t i l lalo to ft r a f f i c ,b u tn owth e r ew e r eo n ly c a r sa n db i c y c l e s .P ed e s t r i an sandho r s ec a r t sh a dn o tc om eth i sf a r .F r omth el i c en s ep l a t e sIc o u lds e e w e r eth er e fug e e sc am ef r om . Ag r e a tm a n yw e r ef r omP a r i s ,s om ew e r ef r omth en o r th e rnp ro v in c e s , o th e r sw e r ef romB e lg iumandHo l l and . S om egy p s i e sw ho w e r ec am p eda lo n gth es id eo ft h ero a ds t a r e da tth el o n gl in eo fv e h i c l e s . Th e ylo o k e dsu rp r i s edandsom ewh a tp l e a s e da ts e e in gth a ts om a n yo th e r sh adt a k e ntoth en om a d i cl i f e . Ju s ttog iv em y s e l fag o a l ,Id e c id e dtoh e adfo rB o r d e au xw h e r eIc o u ldc o n t a c tth e Am e r i c an c o n su l a t e .Toen t e r t a i nm y s e l f ,If an t a s i z e dab o u tAm e r i c a ,b u tId id n ’ tr e a l lyth in kIw o u lde v e rg e tth e r e . Th en ex tn ig h tIs l ep tag a i nonsom eh a yo nth ef lo o ro fa ne l em e n t a rys ch o o l .Th ec l a s s ro oms w e r en o ta sc row d eda sinO r l e a n s .N ex tto m eth e r ew a saf am i lyo fth r e eg e n e r a t i o n sth a th a da r r iv e di n asm a l lc a r :f a th e r ,m o th e r ,ch i ld r e n ,anda no ldg r a n dm o th e r .Th ep o o ro ldl a d ym u s th a v eb e en8 0y e a r s o ld .S h ew a sint e a r sa tth et r ag edyth a th a db e f a l l e nh e rc o u n t ry .S h eh a da no ldl a d y ' sn e edtot a lkto s om e o n e ,s osh espok eto m e ." I t ' st e r r i b l e ,M o n s i e u r .T h i si sth eth i rdt im efo rm e .Ih a v eb e ent h ro u g h th ew a ro f1870 ,th e1914 w a r ,andnowth i so n e .A tm yag eId idn o te x p e c ttos e es u c hac a t a s t r o p h e a g a in . . .I t ' st e r r ib l e .I t ' st e r r ib l e. . . " Th en ex td ayIa r r iv edinP o i t i e r sa ta b o u tf o u rinth ea f t e rn o o n .Is to p p e da tac a f e ,a n ds en ts om e p o s t c a rd sto m yf r i end sinSw i t z e r l and ,a s k in gth emtos en dm yn ew sa lo n gto m ym o th e r .Id o n ' tk n ow h ow ,b u tm ym o th e rr e c e iv edth en ew sn o tlo n ga f t e rw a rd s . Th e n ,Ig o tb a ckon m yb i cy c l etof in dasp o tinth ec o u n t ry s i d ew h e r eIc o u lds l e e p . * * * I nth eev en ingIa r r iv edinasm a l ltow nc a l l e dV iv i e n n e .Ih a dab i t etoe a t ,a n dw h i l eI w a s lo o k in gfo rsh e l t e r ,Is awat r a i ns topp e di nth es t a t i o n .Ic o u ld n ' tb e l i e v em ye y e s !I w e n ttoth et i c k e t w in d ow .Iw a ssosu rp r i s e dth a tIa lm o s ta sk e di fIw a sa c tu a l lys e e in gat r a i n .I n s t e a dIju s ta sk e dw h e r e i tw a sg o in g ."B o rd e aux ,A ng ou l em e "w a sth ea n sw e r ."C a nIg e to n ? "Ia sk e din c r e d u lo u s ly ."W h yn o t ? " Ib o u g h tat i ck e tfo rB o rd e aux ,andpu tm yb i c y c l einth elu g g a g ec om p a r tm e n t .Ito o ka l lm ylu g g a g e w i thm e .I ttu rn edo u ttob eag oodid e ab e c a u s em yb i c y c l en ev e rr e a c h e dB o rd e au x . F i n a l ly !At r a in !I tw a sno taPu l lm a n ,an di tw a sn o ta ne x p r e s s ,b u ti tw a ss t i l lat r a in ! I tw a saf r e ig h tt r a in ,an dIc l im b e din toac a t t l ec a r .Ifo u n da b o u tth i r typ e o p l et h e r e ,ly in gd ow n o rs i t t in go nth ef loo r .T h er a i l ro adc a rs e em e dtob et h e i rh om e .V a r io u sg ro u p sw e r eo rg a n i z e dine a ch c o rn e r .Th e ya t eandt a lk edands l e p ta si fth e yw e r ea th om e .Th et r a in w a sn o tm o v in g ,b u tn o o n e s e em e dth el e a s tb i tim p a t i en t .Th eyh a db e e ninth ec a rfo rtw oo rth r e ed a y s .S om eh a dc om ef rom To u r s ,s om ef romfu r t h e rn o r th ,m ay b ef romP a r i s . Ilo ok eda round ,ands a tdow nw i ths om ep e a s a n t s .Iw a sd i r ty ,t i r e dan dh a d n ’ ts h a v e dfo rfo u ro r f iv ed a y s ,a ndIthoug h tI ’df e e lm o r ecom fo r t a b l eam o ngth em .A l s oIth o u g h tIs h o u l db e h av ea c c o rd in g tom yp r in c ip l e so fso l id a r i t ytow a rd sth ep o o r e rc l a s s e s . 14 7 Ih a dno ts pok entoal iv ingsou li nth r e ed a y s ,a n dIf e l tl ik et a lk in g .Is t a r t e dac o n v e r s a t io n ,b u t s o o nr e a l i z e dth a tm yem p a thyfo rth elow e rc l a s s e sw a sp u r e lyth e o r e t i c a l .S o o nIc o u ldth i n ko fn o th in g m o r etos ay . F r omano th e rco rn e rth es o undo fc o r r e c ta n dg r a c io u sF r en c hr e a c h e dm ye a r s .Itu rn e da n ds aw as t r a n g eg roup :ay oungg i r l ,ay oungb l a ck m a n ,a w om a no fa b o u tfo r ty ,a n dar e s p e c t a b l eM o n s i e u r w i thaw h i t eb e a rd . Tok i l lt im edu r ingt h elon gw a i t ,th eg i r lw a sa n a ly z in gh e rf r i e n d s 'h a n dw r i t in g .T h eb l a ck m a n s i t t i n gb e s id eh e rtookp a r tinth econv e r s a t io n ,m a k in gw i t tyo b s e rv a t io n sth a to b v io u s lyc am ef roma p e r s o no fc u l tu r e .Th eg i r lc a l l edth el ady M am a n ,a n da d d r e s s e dt h eM o n s i e u rw i thth ew h i t eb e a rda s M o n s i e u rl eD i r e c t eu r .Th eb l a ckm anw a sc a l l e dJ a c q u e s .Th eg i r l ' sn am ew a sN a n i e . Iw ro t eaf ewl i n e sonap i e c eo fp a p e ra n dh a n d e di tt oth eh a n dw r i t in ge x p e r t ,a saw a yo f e n t e r in gin toconv e r s a t ion . Sh el ook eda tth ep a p e r ;th e n ,s u r p r i s ed ,s h elo o k e da tm e .S t i l lm o r e s u rp r i s e d ,s h ee x am in ed m yh andw r i t i ngc a r e fu l ly .T h e ns h ein s p e c t e dm yto rnj a c k e ta n dm ym u d dy s h o e sw i thh e rin t e l l ig en tb l a ckey e s .F in a l ly ,lo o k in ga tm yd u s ty ,u n s h av e nf a c e ,s h ee x c l a im e d ,a lm o s t a si fs h ec o u l dno tb e l i ev eh e rey e s ,"bu tth i si sth eh a n do fa ni n t e l l e c tu a l ! "Ism i l e da n da n sw e r e d , "M ay b e . "Ih adb rok enth ei c e ,w eh adb e c om ef r i e n d s .B e fo r eth et r a i nl e f tt h es t a t io n ,I m o v e dm y lu g g ag en ex ttom yn ewf r i end s . Il e a rn e dth a tth eo ld e rm an w a sth ed i r e c to ro fth eC o lo n i a lM in i s t ry .Th eo ld e rl a d yw a sa t e l e p h o n e op e r a to ra tth e M in i s t ryand N a n i ew a sh e rd a u g h t e r . Th eb l a ck m a nw a sa n a t iv eo f M ad a g a s c a r ;h ew a sem p loy edbyth eF r en c hw h i l ep r e p a r i n gath e s i sa tt h eS o rb o n n e .T h e yh a db e e n e v a cu a t e dw i thth em in i s t r yf romP a r i stoT o u r s .Now ,inth ec a t t l ec a r ,th e yw e r eb e in ge v a cu a t e dfo ra s e c o n dt im etoB o rd e aux .Th eyh adlo s ta nI n d o -C h in e s em a n d a r ina lo n gth ew a y ,a n dth e yw e r ev e ry u p s e ta b o u ti t .Th em and a r i nh ad m i s s edth et r a inb e c a u s eh eh a dr e tu rn e dtog e tt h em a n u s c r i p to fab oo k th a th ew a sw r i t ing . Th et r a ins t a r t edand m ov edfo rf i f t e en m in u t e s .Th e ni ts to p p e dfo rh a l fa nh o u ra tth en e x t s t a t io n .W eg o to f f ,andId idaqu i ckw a sha tth efo u n t a in .Iw a sh e dm yf a c ean dh a n d s ,a n dsh a v e d . A f t e rth i sf i r s ts topt h et r a i ns t a r t e du pa g a in .Th ee n g in e e rs h o u t e dfo ru stog e tb a cko nb o a r d , a n dw h e nh ew a ssu r et h a tno on ew a sl e f tb e h in d ,h es low lys t a r t e dth elo c om o t i v e .W et r a v e l l e da n o th e r q u a r t e rh o u r .Th enano th e rs topa tth en ex ts t a t i o nfo rh a l fa nh o u r . M o n s i e u rl eD i r e c t e u ra n dth er e s to f th eg ro u p ,in c lud ingm e ,w en ttoh av eab i t ea tth eC a f éd el aG a r e .W ef e l ta si fw eh adb e e nf r i e n d ss in c e c h i ld h o o d .I nt im e sl ik eth i si t ’ se a syto m ak ef r i e n d s ,s in c e ,int h eg e n e r a ld i s o r d e r ,e v e ry o n ef e e l sth e n e edtoa t t a c hh im s e l ftosom eon eo rsom e th in g . N o b odya sk ed m yn a t ion a l i ty .I w a sa nin t e l l e c tu a l ,a sc o u l db es e enf rom m yh a n dw r i t i n g ,a n d th a tw a se n oug h .Ia sk ed M ad am ei fsh ek n eww h e r eIw a sf r om . " Ic ou ldn ' ts ay . " " IamI t a l i an . "Iw a scu r i ou stos e eh e rr e a c t io n . " I t a l i an ?F romw h a tp a r t ? " "F l o r en c e . " "Th a t ' saf am ou sc i ty .I tm u s tb eb e au t i fu l . " A to n eo fth ef o l low ings to p st h e r ew a sn oC a f éd el aG a r e .N a n i ea n dIg o to f fw h i l eth eo th e r s r em a in e do nth et r a i n .W es a ti nth et a l lg r a s sb yth et r a c k s .I tw a sd u s k . W eb eg antot a lk .In e ed edtot a lk ,a n dw h a tb e t t e rw a yth a ntot a lktoap r e t t yg i r lw h ow a s in t e r e s t e dinw h a tIh adtos ay .It a lk edab o u tm y s e l f ,a b o u tm yw o rk ,m yid e a s .S h et a lk e da b o u th e r s e l f , h e rs tu d i e sa ndh e ra sp i r a t i on s .Ih adas t r a n g ef e e l in gt a lk in gtoh e r .S h es e em e dt ov ib r a t ea tth eso u n do f m ys p e e ch ,a si fsh ew e r eaf in e lytun e di n s t rum e n t .M yid e a ss e em e dtor e s o n a t einh e r ,a si fth e y to u c h e dap a r to fh e rp e r s on a l i tyth a tno o n eh a de v e rto u c h e d ,a n dth a ts h eh e r s e l fw a sn o taw a r eo f . N a n i ek n ewhowtov ib r a t ew i the n thu s i a sm .S h eh a das a c r e df i r einh e r .L a t e rIw o u ldc om p a r eh e rtoa p u r e b r e dh o r s e ,im p a t i e n ta ndfu l lo fe n e rg y ,b u tth a tc o u ldb eg u id e db ys om e o n ew h oc o u l dc o n t ro li t s f i e rys p i r i t . 14 8 W h a td idw et a lkabou t ?A bou tno th i n ga n dev e ry th in g .A b o u tth ew a r ,a b o u tth eS o r b o n n ew h e r e s h ew a ss tu dy ingl i t e r a t u r e ,abou ts c i e n c e ,m a t e r i a l i sma n did e a l i sm ,a b o u tth en um b e ro ft im e sw e u n c o n s c io u s lyp a s s ede a cho th e ronth eRu eS o u f f l o t . W h enth et r a inl e f t ,i tw a sn ig h t .Is a tn e x ttoh e r ,a n dinth ed a rk n e s so fth et r a i n ,o u rl ip sm e t . Th e nw es l e p t . Th en ex td ay ,a td awn ,w eg o to f fa g a i na n dw a lk e db a c ka n dfo r thint h es t a t io n . "W hyd idy ouk i s sm el a s tn ig h t ? " "B e c a u s e...Idon ' tk now .B e c a u s ea f t e ro u rc o n v e r s a t i o nIf e l tt h a tIl ik e dy o u .Ith in kth a tw e u n d e r s t a n de a cho th e r .A ndm ay b ea l sob e c a u s ey o ua r ep r e t ty . " " I sth a ta l l ? " " Id on ' tk now .N o ,Idon ' tth inkth e r ew a sa n y th in ge l s e .Y o us e emin t e l l ig e n ta n df r e e .B e s id e sa k i s si sn o ts u chab igd e a l . " "M ay b eno tfo ry ou .Y oud on ' tk n oww h a ti tm e an stoag i r l . " "H owo lda r ey ou ? " "A lm o s tn i n e t e en . " Iw a ssu rp r i s ed .Ih adon lys e enh e ra td u s k .Ih a ds e e nh e rd e l i c a t ef e a tu r e s ,h e rb l a ckh a i rw o r n intw os ymm e t r i c a lw av e sl ik eac row n ,a n dh e rl i th ea n ds h a p e lyb o d y ,b u tId id n ’ tth in ks h ew a ss o y o u n g .S h ew a ssos e r iou sand m a tu r ew h e ns h es p o k eth a tIh a dn o tg u e s s edh owy o u ngs h ew a s .I nth e l ig h to fth en ewd ay ,i tw a se a sytos e eth a ts h ew a st e l l in gth et ru th .S h elo o k e dl i k eal i t t l eg i r l . " I fIh adk now nIw ou ldn ' th av ek i s s e dy o u .I 'ms o r ry , "Ib a b b l e d ." Id id n ' tw a n ttoh u r ty o u . " "M ay b ey ouh av ehu r tm e .Youm u s tl e a rnt or e s p e c tg i r l s . " "G i r l s ?R e a l ly ,Id idn ' tth in kth e r ew e r ean ym o r e .A sfo ry o u...w e l l ,Id idn ' tth in ky o uw e r eso y o u n g . " "Y o uh av en ' tb e enr e sp e c t f u l ,t om eo rtoa l lg i r l s .Th e r ea r em a n yg i r l sl ik em e . " Ie x cu s edm y s e l f ,em b a r r a s s ed .Id id n ' tk n oww h a ttos a y . " Iw i l lg oin toano th e rco rn e ro fth et r a in ,a n dy o uc anfo rg e tth a ta n yo fth i sh a p p e n ed . " "N o ,y ouc ans t ayw i t hu s , "sh ean sw e r e dsoc a lm lyth a ti ts e em e dl ik ei th a rd lym a t t e r e dtoh e r . Is t ay edw i thth em ,bu tIavo id edt a lk in g . A ta b o u tn in eo rt eni nth em o rn ing ,w ew e r eth row no f fo u rt r a ina ta n o th e rl i t t l es t a t io n ."E v e ry b o d yo f f . I t ' sth ee n do fth el in e . "W eg o to f fandfo u n do u r s e lv e sinth em id d l eo fth ec o u n t ry s i d ea lo n gw i th h u n d r e d so fo t h e rp eop l e . O u rt r a i nl e f t . Wh oh ado rd e r edu so f f ?W h y ?N o o n ek n ew .W ep i t c h e dc am pa sb e s tw ec o u ld . N a n i e ' sm o th e r ss t i t ch e dm yj a ck e tw h o s es l e e v eh adb e ent o rnb yap a s s in gt ru c k . W h a tshou ldw edo ?J a c qu e sandIw e r eth eo n lyy o u n gm e ninth eg ro u pa n dIth o u g h tw esh o u l d d os om e th ing .Soona f t e rw a rd s , Mo n s i eu rl eD i r e c t e u rd i s ap p e a r e dw i th o u tat r a c e .M ay b e ,u s i n gh i s in f lu e n c e ,h eh adfoun daw aytocon t inu eh i st r i pw i t h o u tb o th e r in ga b o u tu sl e s s e rm o r t a l s . B r e adw a sb roug h tf romth en ex tv i l l a g e :l a rg elo a v e so fd a rkc o u n t ryb r e ad .I tsm e l l e dg o o d ,a n d th e r ew a sp l e n tyfo rev e ry on e .Tog e th e r ,w ep o l i s h edo f fth elo b s t e r . If e l tth en e edtodosom e th ing ,c u r s in gth em om e n tth a tIh a dl e f tm yb i c y c l e .Iw e n ttoa s ki fw e c o u ldr e n tac a r .Th e r ew a snoc a rav a i l ab l e .M ay b eah o r s ea n dc a r t ?N o .M ay b ead o n k e yo nw h i c hw e c o u ldlo a do u rb ag g ag eandw ecou l dg oo nfo o t ?N o .M yf in a ls u g g e s t io nw a st oc u tat r e eb r a n c h ,h a n g o u rlu g g a g ef romi t ,andc a r ryi tov e ro u rs h o u ld e r sl ik eju n g l ep o r t e r s .B o rd e a u xw a sa b o u t1 5 0 k i lom e t e r saw ay .I tw ou ldt ak eu sfou ro rf iv ed a y st ow a lkth e r e . Mys u g g e s t io nw a sm e tw i thth em o s t d i s co u r a g in gsk ep t i c i sm . F i n a l lyat r a ina r r iv eda nds topp edfo ra m om e n t .W et r i e dtog e to n ,b u ti tw a sfu l lo fp e o p l ew h o p u s h edu so f f .W ef e l tb e t t e rh av inga tl e a s ts e enat r a in .A f t e raf ewh o u r sa n o th e rt r a ina r r iv e d .I t s to p p e d ,b u tag a inw ecou l dn ' tg e tonb e c a u s eth e r ew a s"n oro om . "W ed e c id e dt h a tw ew o u ldg e to nth e n e x tt r a in ,s om ehow . Th en ex tt r a inw a saf r e ig h tt r a i n ,a l s ofu l ltob u r s t in g .R e fu s in gtoa dm i td e f e a t ,w es awth a to n e o ft h ec a r sw a sun l o ck ed .W epu sh edth ed o o ro p e na n dc o n f r o n t e da m o u n t a ino ft ru n k sa n db o x e s .W e 14 9 c l im b e do n toth emandfoundab ou tf i f tyc en t im e t e r so fs p a c eu n d e rt h ero o f ,m ak in go u r s e lv e sa s c om fo r t a b l ea spo s s i b l e .A n dth enth et r a i nl e f tfo rth es o u th . Th et r a ins to pp edfo ralo ngt im ea tA n g o u l em e .W el e a r n e dth a tth et r a in w a sg o in gtoo u r c omm o nd e s t i n a t ion :B o rd e aux .A tA ng o u l em e ,th es t a t io nw a sc row d e dw i thc iv i l i a n sa n ds o l d i e r s ,a s w e r ea l lt h eo t h e rl a rg es t a t ion s . Aho sp i t a lt r a inc a r r y in gw o u n d e ds o ld i e r sw a ss to p p e dn e a ro u r s .N o o n ew a sc a r ingfo rt h ewou nd ed .On eo fth emto ldu st h a tt h e yh a dn of o o da n dw eg a v eth ems om eo fo u r b l a ckb r e ad . * * * I ttookou rt r a ina l ln ig h tt og of rom A ng o u l em etoB o rd e au x .I nth em o rn in g ,a tt h es t a t io ni n B o rd e au x ,w efoundth eI ndo -C h in e s em a n d a r in ,w h oh a da r r iv e db e fo r eu s .H ew a sh a p p yb e c a u s eh e h a dfo u n dh i sm anu s c r ip t . F i r s tw ew an t edtow a shup .I tw a sim p o s s ib l et og e taro oma tah o t e l .A tth et im e ,B o rd e au xh a d t r ip l e di t sn o rm a lpopu l a t i on .M anyp eo p l ew e r es l e e p in go nh a yo ro ns id ew a lk s .W eh e ad e dfo rt h e p u b l i csw imm ingpoo l ,w h e r ew eshow e r e d ,sw am ,a n dth e nd r e s s e dl ik ec iv i l i z e dp e o p l e . Th e nw er e fu e l e dou r s e lv e sa tan e a rb yr e s t a u r a n tw h i c hb e c am eo u rh e a d q u a r t e r s .W es ep a r a t e d d u r in gth ed ay ,b e c au s ew ee a chh add i f f e r e n tth in g st od o ,b u tw ea lw a y sm e tfo rm e a l sa to u rr e s t a u r a n t . O u rl i t t l ef am i lycon s i s t edo fN an i e ,h e rm o th e r ,J a c q u e s ,T a n-th em a n d a r in-a n daf i f t e e ny e a ro ldb o y w h oh a djo in edu sa f t e rlo s i ngh i sf am i ly . M ad am eT ,N an i e ' sm o th e rw en tt olo o kfo rh e rm in i s t r y . N o tk now ing w h a te l s etodo ,I w e n ttoth eu n iv e r s i ty .N a n i ec am ew i th m e .I nth es t r e e t so f B o rd e au xw em e tm anya cqu a in t an c e s .A l lo fP a r i sw a sth e r e .Ifo u n dJo l i o tint h eh a l lo fth eu n iv e r s i ty . " I 'mg l adtos e ey ouh e r e , "h es a id ."P o n t e c o rv oh a sgo t t e nt oTo u lo u s e .Ih a v eju s tp u tKo v a r s k i a n dV o nH a lb anonabo a tfo rEng l an d .[ Il a t e rfo u n do u tt h a tth e yh a db ro u g h th e av yw a t e ra n do th e r m a t e r i a l stoEng l andino rd e rt ocon t in u eth e i rr e s e a r c ho nn u c l e a re n e rg y . ]Iw a sw o r r i e dab o u tth em :y o u k n owo n ew a sPo l i shandt h eo th e rA u s t r i a n . " "A n dw h a ta r ey oug o ingtodo M .J o l io t ? " " I 'mg o ingb a ckno r th . " "B a ckno r th ? "Ia sk ed ,su rp r i s ed ."B u tth eG e rm a n sw i l lg e ty o u . " "M ay b e ,bu tIh av eo rd e r s . "H ed i dn o ts ayw h oh a dg i v e nh imth eo rd e r stog ob a c kn o r th .I na n y c a s e ,h ew e n tt oP a r i s . Th eM in i s t ryo fN a t ion a lE du c a t io nh a ds e tu po f f i c e sa tt h eU n i v e r s i tyo fB o rd e a u x .Iw e n ttoth e C a i s s eN a t io na l ed eR e ch e r ch ew h e r eIfo u n dM ad am eM in e u r ,th es e c r e t a ry .S h ea sk e dm ei fIn e ed e d m o n ey ,a si fsh ew a sinahu r rytog e tr ido fh e rfu n d sb e fo r eth e yf e l li n to G e rm a nh a n d s .Is a idn o , b e c a u s eIs t i l lh adag oodb i to fth em on ey m ym o th e rh a db ro u g h ttoF r a n ceth in k in gs h em ig h tl iv eth e r e s ev e r a ly e a r s .B u tIk nowth a tdu r ingth et im e ,o th e r sh a dr e c e iv e da d v a n c e so nth e i rs a l a r i e sfo rth e t r im e s t e r ."D oy ouh av eap l a c etos l e ep ? " "N o . ""W e l l ,y o uc ang ototh el y c é e . "A n ds h eg a v em ea l e t t e rth a ts ig n edbyth eDo y eno fth eS c i e n c eF a c u l ty ,r e q u i s i t io n i n gab edf o rm e . N a n i ea ndIw a lk eda roundtow n ,a n dv i s i t e dth ec a th e d r a l .Th e no u rg ro u pm e tf o rd in n e r .N a n i e a n dh e rm o th e rw en ttos l e eponh ayw i them p lo y e e sf romth eP .T .T .Iw o u ldh a v el ik e dtog iv eth em m y b e da tth el y c é e ,bu thowco u ldIdoth a t ? Ifo undacom fo r t ab l eco tf o rm einal a rg ero oma tth el y c é e .Th eo th e rb e d sw e r efo rth ep a g e s f romth eC h am b e ro fD e pu t i e s .Is l e p tth e r efo rth r e eo rfo u rn ig h t s .O n en ig h tt h e r ew a sa na i rr a ida n d w ea l lw e n tin t oth eb a s em en t .If e l la s l e epo nab e n c h ,d e sp i t eth ev io l en te x p lo s io n so fb om b sf a l l in gi n th ec i ty . A tth eAm e r i c anc on su l a t eIw a sto ldth a tm yd o c um en t sh a ds om e h owa r r iv e df r omP a r i s .Is aw th em w i th m yv e ryow ney e s .B u tth eq u o t an um b e rh a dn o ty e ta r r iv e d .Ip a i d4 0 0f r a n c st oh a v eth e c o n su l a t et e l e g r aph B a r c e l on aan df romth e r eto N a p l e s .E v e ryf ewd a y sIr e t u rn e dtoin q u i r ei fm y n um b e rh a da r r iv ed ,andt h er e sp on s ew a sa lw a y sn e g a t iv e .I w e n tto C o o k sT r a v e lA g e n cya n dp a id 1 0 , 0 0 0f r a n c sfo raf i r s tc l a s st i ck e tf romL i sb o ntoN ewY o rk . 15 0 Ir a nin to M a r ioL ev i ,th eS o c i a l i s tw h oh a djum p e din toth er iv e ra tth eSw i s sb o r d e r .I nP a r i sh e h a dw o rk e da tt h er ad io ,t r an sm i t t ingI t a l i a nl a n g u a g eb ro a d c a s t s .H eh a db e e ne v a cu a t e dw i thth eo th e r em p lo y e e s .I m e th i sf r i end sandc o -w o rk e r s .Th e r ew e r etw os o c i a l i s te x d e p u t i e s ,am o n gw h omw a so ld M o d ig l i a n iw hosp o r t edth eb e a r do fap ro p h e t . Al a rg eg roupo fI t a l i anan t i f a s c i s t sh a dc om etoB o rd e au xfo rs a f e ty .B u tn o o n ew a sf e e l in ga t a l ls a f eh e r e . Ir em em b e r edth a tm yf r i e nd M e l am e r s o nw a si n t e rn e dinad e b a rk a t io nc am pinth ec i tya n dI d e c id e dtop ayh imav i s i t .I ttu rne dou ttob eab a r r a c k s ,n o tac am p .Ia sk e das o ld i e ri fIc o u ldv i s i ta f r i e n da n dh er e fu s ed .Itu r n edtol e av e ,g iv e nth a t ,a sa ne n em ya l i e n ,Ith o u g h ti tu nw i s etoin s i s tto o m u c htoe n t e rsu chac am p .Th eso ld i e rc a l l e dm eb a cka n da s k e di fIw a sar e l a t iv e .Ia n sw e r e dth a tIw a s ju s taf r i e n d .H es e em edd i s appo in t edtoh a v en oe x c u s etol e tm een t e r .H ea s k e dm ei fIr e a l lyw a n t e dto s e em yf r i e n d .Th i st im eIs a idy e s ,s oh eto l dm etog oa h e a din ,b u to n lyf iv em in u t e s . Is p en tp r a c t i c a l lyth een t i r ed ayinth a tb a r r a ck s ,g o in gina n do u ta sIp l e a s e d .T h e r ew e r ea b o u t f i f tyin t e rn e e s .Th eys l ep tonco t sandfo rw a sh in gth e yh a dab a s ina n dap i t c h e ro fw a t e r .Th el a t r i n ew a s in to l e r a b l e ,bu tcon s id e r ingth a ti tw a sm o r eo rl e s sac o n c en t r a t i o nc am p ,th ec o n d i t io n sc o u l dh a v eb e en m u c hw o r s e . Th ein t e rn e e sw e r eex t r em e lyw o r r i e da b o u tf a l l in gin toG e rm a nh a n d sa n dth e yw e r ep lo t t i n ga n e s c ap e .L e av ingth eb a r r a c k sw a sv e rye a s y ,b u tth e nw h a t ?I ts e em e dth a tth e ye v e nh a ds om em o n ey , b u th oww e r eth eyg o ingtog e tth en e c e s s a ryp a s s p o r t sa n dv i s a stol e av eF r a n c e ? M e l am e r song av em eb a ckth ef ewh u n d r e df r a n c sth a th eow e dm e .Id id n ' tw a n ttoa c c e p tth em , b e c a u s eId idn ' tn e edth em on ey .B u th ein s i s t e d ,a n dIto o kth em .M o n eyh a dn ov a l u eth o s ed a y s . B a n k n o t e sh adlo s tth e i rm a g i cp r e s t ig e ,a n dw e r en om o r eth a ns tu p idp i e c e so fp a p e r . Th ein t e r n e e ss en tm eone r r an d s .F i r s tIw e n ttob u yfo o dt oa d dt ow h a tw a sg iv e nth embyth e m i l i t a rya u th o r i t i e s .Th ent h eys en tm etof in do n eo ft h e i rm o th e r stoa r r a n g ea ne s c ap e .Th i sw om a nw a s tor e n tat ru ckandtow a i tf o rth ema tap r e d e t e rm in e dp l a c e .Iw e n tina n do u to fth ec am pw i th o u tb e in g q u e s t io n ed .Ev e ry th ingw a sf a l l i ngap a r t .N o th in gw a sb e in gm o n i to r e do ro rg a n i z ed . Id on ' tdoub tth et r u tho fsom eo fth ed e s c r ip t i o n so fth ea c t io n so fth eF r e n c ho f f i c i a l sw i th r e sp e c ttoth ei n t e rn e e s .F r om w h a tIh av eh e a rd ,K e s s e l ' sd e s c r ip t io no fth eV e rn e tc am pi sa b so lu t e ly t ru e .B u tinB o rd e au xth eF r en cho f f i c i a l sw e r ev e ryd e c en t . As e rg e an tc am efo rr o l l c a l l .I nan sw e rtoa n g u i s h edq u e s t io n in g ,hea s s e r t edth a ti ft h eG e rm a n s w e r et oa r r iv einB o rd e a ux ,th ep r i s on e r sw o u l db eg iv e nth e i rf r e edom .Th eF r e n c hm i l i t a ry m a n ag e dto g e tS p a n i s handPo r tug u e s ev i s a sfo ra l lth ein t e rn e e s . Is aw M e l am e r sonaf ew m on thl a t e rin Am e r i c a[H ei sap ro f e s so ra t NYU .H i sa c t u a ln am ei s E r n e s tV a n d e rv e rd en ] .H et o ld m eth a tth e yw e r el i b e r a t e da tth el a s tm om e n t .Th es e rg e an t ,w i t hb r i b e ry , a g r e edtos ig nt h er e l e a s ep ap e r sth a tshou ldh a v eb e e ns ig n e db yaco lo n e l .O b v io u s ly ,th ec o l o n e ld i dn o t w a n ttot a k er e sp on s ib i l i tyfo rs ig n ingth ep a p e r s ,b u ti t ' sa l s oo b v io u sth a th ed idn o th in gtop r e v e n tth e i r l e av in g . D u r ingth a td aya tth ein t e rnm en tc am p , Ilo s tto u c hw i th m yf r i e n d ss i n c eIh a dn o th a dl u n c h w i tht h ema tth eu su a lr e s t au r an t .Tow a rd se v e n in g ,Is t a r t e dw a n d e r in gth ro u g hth es t r e e t so fth ec i t y h o p in gtof in dth em .B u tf i r s tIh adanun p l e a s a n te n c o u n t e r .F r omas id ew a lkinf ro n to fw h a th a do n c e b e ena m o v i ehou s e ,Is awac a rs topandd i s ch a rg eM o n s i e u rL a v a l .I tw a sa c tu a l lyL a v a l ,w i thh i sw h i t e t i e ,a n dh i sc an e ,an dh i sd i sg u s t ingf a tf a c e .H elo o k e dv e rys e l f s a t i s f i e d .H i spo r c in ee y e ss e em e dto s ay ,m ym om en th a sa r r iv e d ;m yw o rki sc om p l e t e . H ee n t e r edth em ov i ehou s e ,p rob a b lyfo ra nim p o r t a n tm e e t in g ,p a s s in gju s taf ewf e e taw a y f rom m e .Iw an t edtosp i ti nh i sf a c e .B u tId id n ' t ,b e c a u s eIf e l tIh a dn e i th e rth er ig h tn o rth eo b l ig a t io n , s in c eIw a sno tF r en ch . Th e nI m e tm yf r i end s .Th e yh adfo u n dro om sinap e n s io n .J a c q u e sh a dal i t t l ero om .M ad am eT a n dh e rd a u g h t e rh adane no rm ou sroom w i thtw ol a rg eb e d s ,a n das e p a r a t el i t t l ero omfo ras i n kw i th ru n n i n gw a t e randato i l e t .M ad am eTo f f e r e dm eo n eo fth eb igb e d s ,s ay in gth a ts h ea n dN a n i ew o u l d s l e e pinth eo th e r .Ia c c ep t e d . 15 1 M ay b eI w a sw rongtodoso .B u ta f t e rh a v in gl i v e dw i thth ee n t i r eg ro u pfo rs olo n g ,I a p p r e c i a t e dN an i em o r e ,a ndIw a sb e c om in gr e a l lyfo n do fh e r .S oId idn o tth in kIw a sb e in gd i s lo y a l b ya c c ep t in gth e i rinv i t a t io n .Ithoug h tIco u ldb ec lo s eN a n i ew i t h o u tb e in gd i s r e s p e c t fu l . A f t e rou rin i t i a lco nv e r s a t i on s ,Ih a dt r i e dtos t a yaw a yf romh e r ,w i th o u ts e p a r a t in gm y s e l ff rom th eg ro u p .Ir a r e lysp ok et oh e r ,andIad d r e s s edh e rw i thth efo rm a lv o u s ,w h i l ee v e ry o n ee l s eu sedth e in fo rm a ltuw i t he a cho th e r .B u ti tw a sin e v i t a b l eth a tw ew o u ldb e c om ec lo s e r .I no u rc o n v e r s a t io n sa t m e a l t im e sw h en w ea l la t etog e th e r ,N an i ea n dIa lw a y sto o kth es am ep o s i t i o n s .W h e n e v e rs h es a i d s om e th in g ,sh efoundsup p o r tf rom m e ,a n dw h e n ev e rIs a ids om e th in g ,Ifo u n ds u p p o r tf r omh e r .S h e a d v a n c e dh e ri d e a s ,w h i chw e r eth es am ea sm in e ,w i thc o n t ro l l e df e rv o r .S h ed idn o tr a i s eh e rv o i c e ,b u t h e rv o i c et r em b l edandh e rey e sshon e .Ic o u ldn o th e lpe x c l a im in ga lo u d ,"E l l eal ef e us a c r é ,c e t t e p e t i t e ! " S h ew a sp a s s io n a t eabou tF r en chl i t e r a tu r e ,a b o u tw h i c hIk n ewn o th in g . Wh e ns h es p o k ea b o u t th es ix t e en thc en tu ry ,o rm ay b ei tw a sth es ev e n t e e n t ho rf i f t e e n t h ,s h eb e c am ee n th u s i a s t i c .O nth eo th e r h a n d ,Ig o te x c i t edw h enIt a lk edabou ts c i e n c eo rp o l i t i c s .B u to ng e n e r a ls u b j e c t so nw h i c he v e ryo n eh a s o p in io n sa bou tp e op l e ,a b ou tm o r a lp rob l em s ,a b o u te d u c a t io n a lm e th o d so rh um a nr e l a t io n s w ea lw a y s a g r e ed .A n dth eag r e em en tw a sd e e p e rth a nm e r ew o rd s .W ef e l t ,a n dm a y b ei t ' sad e lu s io no ftw op e o p l e w h oa r ea t t r a c t edt oe a cho t h e r ,th a tw ew e r eina g r e em en ttoth ev e ryc o r e ,inth ed e ep e s tr e c e s s e so fo u r s o u l s . W el iv edi nt h a tb igroomfo rf iv eo rs ixd a y s ,m a y b el e s s .D u r in gth ed a y ,M a d am eT .w e n tt o w o rka th e rm in i s t ry ,w h e r eth e r ew a sno th in gtoa dm in i s t e r .N a n i ea n dI w e r el e f ta lo n e .W es p en tth e d a y st a lk in gandd i s cu s s ingandw a lk ing ,a l lc om p l e t e l yp l a to n i c . I nth eev en ing M ad am eT .andJ a c q u e sr e t u rn e d .O n ee v e n in gth e r ew a sa na i rr a ida n dt h e e l e c t r i c i tyw a sc u to f f .J a c q u e sr e adu sh i sp o em sb yc an d l e l ig h t . J a c qu e sw a sas t r ang ep e r son .H ew a sa b o u t2 5y e a r so ld ,s h o r t ,a n db l a cka sth en ig h ta n da sw e e t ,s adexp r e s s ioninh i sey e s .H ew a ss en s i t iv ea n dr e f in e da n dh es p o k em ag n i f i c e n tF r e n c h .H e lo v e db e au t i fu lth ing s ,an dh elov edh i sc om fo r t s .I nB o rd e au xh ec om p l a i n e dc o n s t a n t lyth a tth e b a th ro om sw e r eno tuptoh i ss t and a rd s .L i k em a n yn a tu r a l i z e dc o lo n i a l s ,h ew a sm o r eF r e n cht h a nth e F r en c h .H ew a san a t io n a l i s tandab i to fac h a u v in i s t . W h en w el e a rn edth a tan ewg ov e rnm e n th a db e e nf o rm e dw i thP e t a ina n dW e y g a n d ,h es a id , "Y o uc ant r u s tp eop l el ik et h a t . "C omm un i s t sw o u ldh a v es a idth a th eh a ds o ldo u ttoF r e n c him p e r i a l i sm , a n dth a th ew a sa nin s t r um en to fc ap i t a l i s ta n dc o l o n i a l i s te xp lo i t a t io no fh i sc o u n t ry .B u th ew a sn ' t in t e r e s t e dinth e s et h ing s .Toh im ,F r an c ew a si t sl i t e r a tu r e ,i t sm o n um e n t s ,i t sl a n g u a g ea n di t sh i s to ry . A n dth u s ,inh i sey e s ,P é t a inand W ey g an d ,w h ow e r ed o u b t l e s s lyh i s to r i cin d iv id u a l s ,w e r er e p r e s e n t t a t iv e so fth eF r a n c eh elov ed . Il a t e rl e a r n edth a ta f t e rt h ea rm i s t i c eh ew e n ttoV i c h y .Iw o u ldn o tb es u rp r i s edi fh eb e c am ea n o f f i c i a lo fth eco l l abo r a t ion i s tg ov e rnm en t .W h enth eE n g l i s hw e r ea b o u ttoo c cu p yM ad a g a s c a r ,Ih e a r d th a tJ a c q u e sw a s"w o r r i e dabou th i sc oun t ry ' sf a t e . "N oo n es a id w h yh ew a sw o r r i e d ,b u tIw o u ldn ' tb e s u rp r i s e di fh ew an t ed M ad ag a s c a rtor em a inu n d e rth ec o n t ro lo fth eV i c h yg o v e rnm e n t . A f t e ra l l ,J a cqu e sh adb e e na" co l l a b o r a to r "s in c eh ew a sv e ryy o u n g . An a t iv eo fM ad a g a s c a r w h oc o l l a b o r a t ed w i thth eo c cupy ingim p e r i a l i s tg o v e rnm e n to fF r a n c ec o u lde a s i lyc o l l a b o r a t ew i thth e o c cu p y in gim p e r i a l i s tg ov e rnm en to fG e rm a n y . B u ta s id ef rompo l i t i c s ,J a cqu e sw a sa w o n d e r f u lp e r s o na n dag o o df r i e n d .I ntho s ed i f f i c u l t d a y s ,Id idn ' tc a r es om u chabou tp eop l e ' sp o l i t i c sa sId idth e i rh um a ns id ea n df romth i sp e r s p e c t iv e, J a c q u e sw a sag em . H ew a sv e rycom fo r t ab l einF r an c e .H ec o u l dg oa n ywh e r e ,a n dc o u ldc h o o s etol i v eina n yh o t e l , inju s ta b o u tanyp a r to ft h ec i ty .H eco u ldd a n c ew i thg i r l so fa n yc o lo r. . .H owd i f f e r e n tf romAm e r i c a ! * * 15 2 * W eg o tou rn ew sf romlo c a ln ew s p a p e r s ,o rf romP a r i s i a np a p e r sw h i c hp u b l i s hedo n e p a g e e d i t io n s .Th a t ' showw el e a rn edt h a ta na rm i s t i c eh a db e ens ig n e dan dth a tB o rd e a u xw a sinth es e c to rth a t th eG e rm a n sw e r esuppo s e dtoo c cupy . Al a rg em a jo r i tyo fp eop l ew e r einf a v o ro ft h es u r r e n d e r .T h es im p l ep e o p l e ,t h o s ew h od id n 't h a v ed e f in i t epo l i t i c a lop in ion s ,tho ug h to n lyo fs to p p in gth ec a r n a g es in c er e s i s t a n c ew a sim p o s s ib l e .I f th eF r e n c ha rm y ,th eb e s ta rm yinth ew o r ld ,h a db e e nd e f e a t e d ,t h e nn oo n ee l s ew o u ldb ea b l etod e f e a t H i t l e r .A n yfu r th e rr e s i s t an c ew ou l db einv a in . Th er ig h t i s tp o l i t i c i an s ,l ik eL av a l ,w h omIh a ds e e naf ewd a y sb e fo r e ,m u s th a v eb e ene c s t a t i c. Th e i rid e a sh adb e enp rov edr ig h t ,andth e ye x p e c t e dt od iv id eth ec a b in e tm in i s t r i e sam o n gth em s e lv e sto g ov e rnF r a n c ea sad e p end en to fH i t l e r.F i n a l lyth e r ew o u ldb eo r d e r !A tV i c h y ,P é t a inw o u ldb ea b l et o s u b s t i tu t eL i b e r t é ,É ga l i t ée tF ra t e rn i t éw i thO rd e r ,F am i lya n d Wo rk . Th el e f ta l sof e l tt h a tr e s i s t an c eb a s edin m a in l a n dF r a n c ew a su s e l e s s .Th eL a v a l s ,th eW e y g a n d s a n dth eP e t a i n sco u lds ig na l lth ea rm i s t i c e st h e yw a n t e dw i th o u tb e in gd i s h o n o r e dint h ee y e so ft h e a n t i f a s c i s t s ,s in c eth eyn ev e rw e r em eno fh o n o r . I fth e r ew e r etob er e s i s t an c ei tw o u l dh a v etob eo rg a n i z e da b ro a d ,o rg u e r r i l l aw a r f a r eo nth e m a in l a n d .Th e r ew e r etho s ew how an t edth eg o v e rnm e n tto m o v etoth ec o lo n i e s ,fo re x am p l etoA lg i e r s , toc o n t i n u eth ew a ra sag ov e rnm en tine x i l e .B u tc e r t a in lyn o tth ec u r r e n tg o v e rnm e n t ,o rth eg o v e rn m e n t sth a th a db e eni nch a rg edu r i ngth ew a r !T h e yw o u ldn e v e rf in ds u p p o r tf romth ea n t i f a s c i s t s ,a n d th e yw o u ldno tb eab l etoi n sp i r et h ep e op l etof a c et h ed a n g e r so fa nu n d e rg ro u n ds t ru g g l e . A f t e ra l l ,w hy w ou ldth ep eop l ew a n ttod e f e n dth eE n g l i s hem p i r ea g a i n s tt h eG e rm a nem p i r e . L e tt h emf ig h ti tou tam ong s tt h em s e lv e s ! E v e ry on ew a ssk ep t i c a lan dd i s co u r a g e d .N o th i n gm o r ec o u ldb ed o n e .I nth o s ed a y s ,v e ryf ew th o u g h tt h a tp r ep a r a t ion ssh ou ldb em ad etof ig h tH i t l e r ,f ig h tM u s s o l in i ,a n da l s of ig h tP e t a ina n dL a v a l . I ns om ew ay s ,Iw a sa l soinf av o ro fth ea rm i s t i c e .I nt h o s el a s tf ewd a y sIth o u g h t :"L e tth eme n d th i sw a rth a tt h eyd idno tw an ttof ig h ta n dl e tm eg oinp e a c e .W e s t e rnE u r o p ew i l lb eF a s c i s t .E n g l a n d w i l lb ed e f e a t ed .B u tth eg am ei sno tov e rb e c a u s eth e r ei ss t i l lth eS o v i e tU n io n . "B u tIw a ss u rp r i s edth a t th eS o v i e tU n i oncou lda l lowH i t l e rtog a ins om u c hp ow e ra n d ,a su s u a l ,Iw a sa s s a i l e db yd o u b t s . F o rm e ,su r r e nd e rm e an tIcou ldn o ts t a yinF r a n c e .F r e n chF a s c i smw o u ldb ein f lu e n c edb yth e G e rm a n s ,a n di tw o u ldb e c om et ing ed w i tha n t i s em i t i sma n dx e n o p h o b i a .Id id n ' tw a n t e dt os t a yu n d e r th eG e rm a n s ,andId idno tt ru s to c cup i edF r a n c e .Th e r e fo r e :Ih a dtol e a v e . Ito ldN an i eandsom ef r i e n d sth a tIw a sth in k in go fg o in g .M ad am eT .o f f e r e dm ea n dN a n i eh e r h o u s einth ePy r en e e s ,int h euno c cu p i e dz o n e .B u tId idn ' te v e nt ru s tt h eu n o c c u p i e dz o n e .Th e ys a idI w a sr ig h t ,b e c au s eIw a sJ ew i sh ,an dinadd i t io n ,Iw a sn o tF r e n ch . Iw ou ldt rytog otoP o r tug a l ,andl e av efo rAm e r i c af romth e r e .N a n i ew o u l df o l lowa ss o o na s s h eh a dh e rdo cum en t s .I fsh eh adh adap a s s p o r tw i thaP o r tu g u e s ev i s as h ew o u l dh a v el e f tw i thm e . B u thowshou ldIg o ? Th e r ew e r en om e an so ft r a n s p o r t a t io n ,a n dId idn ' th a v eth ee x i tv i s a n e ed e dtol e av eF r an c el eg a l ly . Wh enI w e n ttoth ep o l i c eo f f i c e ,i tw a sc lo s eda n dal in eo fah u n d r e d p e o p l ew a i t edou t s id e . A sIo f t end idw h enIw a sint rou b l e ,Iw e n ttoth eU n i v e r s i ty .Ito ld Mm e .M in e u rm yp ro b l em ." I u n d e r s t a n d ,y ou m u s tn ' ts t ay .W a i t ,I ' l lg iv ey o ua m i s s io nf romth eM in i s t ryo fE d u c a t io n . "A n ds h eg a v e m ea m im e o g r aph edsh e e ts t a t ingth a tth eF r e n c hg o v e rnm e n tw a ss e n d in gm etoL i sb o no na no f f i c i a l m i s s io n .Ir e tu r n edtot h ep o l i c es t a t ionw i t hth i sd o c um e n t ,b u ti td id n ' tim p r e s s e da n y o n e . H ow ev e rth edo cum en tg av em ea c c e s stoa m i l i t a ryt r a in( th e yw e r eth eo n lyo n e ss t i l lru n n in g ) w h i c hw a sh e a d edtot h eSp an i shbo r d e r . I tw a sas ada f t e rno onw h e nIl e f t .Ip u to nm yb a ck p a cka n dlo a d edu pm yf ews u i t c a s e s .N a n i e a n dh e rm o th e rc am etoth es t a t io n ,andw es a ido u rs a dg o o d b y e s . O nth ec row d edt r a in ,a m ano fab o u tfo r tyt a lk e da b o u tr e s i s t in g ."S o ,y o u ' r eg o in gtoP o r tu g a l ? A sfo rm e ,Iw an ttog otoEng l andtok e epf ig h t in g .G e n e r a ld eG a u l l ei sth e r e ,a n dm a n ya r eg o in gto jo inh im . "I tw a sth ef i r s tt im eIh adh e a rdo fd eG a u l l e . Th en ex tm o rn ingIg o to f fa tB ou lo g n e .Th el in eo u t s id eth ep o l i c es t a t io nw a se v e nlo n g e rth a n inB o rd e au x .Ishow ed m ydo cum en t s ,an dw a sto ld ,"B u te v e ry o n ei so na no f f i c i a lm i s s io n ! "I nB i a r r i t z , 15 3 th er e a c t io nw a st h es am e ."N oex i tv i s a sto d a y . "B o thinB o u lo g n ean dinB i a r r i t zth e yg a v em ean um b e r a n dto ldm etoc om eb a ckth en ex td ay .B u tth en e x td a yth er e s p o n s ew a sth es am e . Ih av en ev e rund e r s toodw hyth eF r e n cha u th o r i t i e sw o u ldn o ta l lowfo r e ig n e r st ol e a v eF r an c e .I d o n ' tth in ki tw a sin t en t io n a lm a l i c e ,ju s ts t u p idb u r e a u c r a cy .Th em o s tl ik e lye x p l a n a t io ni st h a ts om e g e n e r a lw h ow a sw o r r i eda bou tsp i e sh add e c id e dtok e epp e o p l ef romc ro s s in gth eb o r d e r s ,a n dn o o n e w a n t e dtot a k er e spon s ib i l i t yfo rdo ingo t h e rw i s e . I nB i a r r i t zIs awth eA t l an t i cO c e a n .Is a to nt h eb e a c h .O nth eo th e rs id ew a sAm e r i c a .W o u ldI e v e rg e tt h e r e ?Th esk yw a sc loudyandi tw a sd r i z z l in g .Th eg r a yo c e anw a ss t e e l yr e f l e c t io n s .I n s t e ado f in c i t in gm y sp i r i to fadv en tu r e ,i tm ad em ef e e lu n e a sy . Th eo c e anlo o k e dc o lda n dr e p e l l a n t .T h e u n k n ow no nth eo th e rs id es c a r edm e . B e h ind m ew e r eF r an c ea n dI t a ly ,c i t i e sIk n ew ,p e o p l eIlov e dp e o p l einas t a t eo fc o n fu s io n , n am e l e s ss u f f e r ing ,bu tt h e s ef e e l ing sw e r ef am i l i a r .Ah um a n i tyth a tw a sd e a rtom ea n dw h o s eL a t inf i r e w a sa t t r a c t iv eandin t e r e s t i ngfo rm e.Th i sc iv i l i z a t io nw i thi t sa n c i e n ts t r e e t s ,i t sid e a l sa n dp a s s io n s ,i t s lo v e sa n dh a t e s ,i t sm o r a lv a lu e sanda e s th e t i c s ,w a sc o l l a p s in g .A n da h e a do fm eth e r ew a sn o th in gb u ta c o ldo c e a na ndas t r ang el a nd . A tth epo l i c es t a t io n sth e r ew e r el in e so fd i s p i r i t e da n dp a t i e n tp e o p l e ,m o s tlypo l i t i c a lo rr a c i a l r e fu g e e s .Th ey w a i t edb e s i d eth ec lo s edd o o r sw i th o u tag l imm e ro fh o p e .Th ey o u n g e s ta n dth em o s t e n e rg e t i ch a da l r e adyl e f t ,o rw e r et ry ingtol e a v ei l l e g a l ly . O nth es t r e e t c a rb e tw e enB i a r r i t za n dB o u lo g n eay o u n gA b y s s in i a nh e ldfo r t ho nh i sh a t r e do f F a s c i s tI t a ly ,f in a l lyf i nd ingasym p a th e t i ce a rw i tht h eF r en c hw h oh a db e ens t a b b e dinth eb a ck . A tth eSp an i shandPo r tug u e s eco n s u l a t e sth e r ew e r ef ig h t s .P e o p l ew h oh a dfo u g h tfo rab e t t e r p l a c einl in eh adsp l i tl ip s . Th e r ew a ss t i l le noug htoe a t ,b u tth e r ew e r en om o r ec ig a r e t t e s .I m e tF r an c oV e n tu r ia n dh i s g i r l f r i e n da tar e s t a u r a n t .H ew an t edtog otoE n g l a n d ,b u tt h eE n g l i s hh a db a n n e dh imb e c a u s eh ew a s I t a l i a n .H ew a sind ig n an t ,"Tot h inkth a tI w a n ttof i g h tfo rth em ! "[H ew e n tt oS p a i nw h e r eh ew a s in t e rn e db yF r an co ,a nds en tb a ckto Mu s so l in i .I nN ewY o rkIs p o k etoh i sf a th e r ,w h ow a sv e ryw o r r i e d a b o u th im .B u tth eF a s c i s t sju s ts en th imtoth ec o n f in o ,a n dIth in kh eb e c am eap r o f e s s o rinTu r in . ] Id o n ' tr em em b e rw h e r eIs l ep t .I tw a sim p o s s ib l etof i n daro ominah o t e l .Is p e n to n en ig h tina f i s h e rm a n ' shou s e ,ano th e rw i thap e a s an t .Th e yto o km einb e c a u s eIh a db e e nin t ro d u c e db yc e r t a i n a cq u a in t a n c e sw hoh adswo rnth a tI w a sn o td a n g e r o u s .W h ow e r eth e s ea cq u a in t a n c e s ?Ir em em b e r n e i th e rt h e i rn am e sno rth e i rf a c e s .M ay b eth eyw e r eP o l i s ho rC z e ch o s lo v a k i a no rR om a n i a nJ ew s .O n e d a yth e yl e f tf o rth eun o c cu p i edz on e . Iw a lk edonth ew h a r ftof indas h ipth a tw o u ldt a k em e. . .a n yw h e r e .Ig o ti nl in efo rN o r th A f r i c a ,E n g l and ,an dm ay b eo th e rp l a c e s .Id id n ' tc a r e .Is awasm a l lP o r t u g u e s eb o a tf ly in gar e da n d g r e enf l a ga ndIa sk edon eo ft h es a i lo r si fth e yc o u ldt a k em etoL i s b o n ." Ih a v eav a l idv i s a . "N ow a y . Th eb o a tw a ss t i l ldo ck edt h e r ew h enIl e f t .Iw e n tt os e ei te v e ryd a ya n dtot a lktot h es a i lo r s .Tha tr e d a n dg r e enf l agw h i chIs awth enfo rth ef i r s tt im er em a in e dim p r e s s edinm ym in d . Th eG e rm an sw e r eg e t t ingc lo s e r .Id e c id e dtot rytoc ro s sth eb o r d e rw i th o u ta ne x i tv i s a .Th e b o rd e rw a sabou t50k i lom e t e r saw ay .I tco u ld n ' tb eto oh a rd ,a n do n c eIc ro s s e dth eb o rd e r ,I ' db el e g a l w i thm yS p a n i shandPo r tu g u e s ev i s a s . Iw a sso r ryIh adlo s tm yb i cy c l e .It r i e dtob u ya n o th e ro n e ,b u ti tth e r ew e r en o n etob ef o u n d .I t r i e dtor e n tac a r ,bu tth e r ew a snog a s .It r i e dtog e to nat r a in ,b u tIw a sn ' ta l low e din t oth es t a t io n . Is p en tm yt im einth ec a f e s ,w r i t i n gl e t t e r st oN a n i e ,n o tk n ow in gi fth e yw o u lde v e rr e a c hh e r .I r a na ro u n dt ry ingtof indt r an spo r t a t i on ,o nth eg ro u n d ,o v e rw a t e r ,o rb ya i r .F i n a l ly .Iw e n ttoag a r a g e a n da sk e dm yu su a lqu e s t io n . "D oy ouh av eab i cy c l etos e l l ? " "N o ,m on s i eu r ,nob i cy c l e . " "C a nIr en tac a rtog ot oH end ay e ? " "N o ,m on s i eu r ,th e r ei snog a s . "Il e f t ,d i s c o u r a g e d ,b u tn o ts u rp r i s ed . Th e nay oung ,w e l l d r e s sedm ana s k e dm e ,"H owm u chw i l ly o up a ytob ed r iv e ntoH e n d a y e ? " "H owm u chdoy ouw an t ? " 15 4 "O h ,no ,no .I 'mno tg o ingtoa skap r i c e .Th eg a r a g eh a sn om o r eg a so l in e .Iamth ea s s i s t a n t d i r e c to r ,a n dIh av easm a l lc a ro fm yow n .I ti s n ' tint h eg a r a g e .Is t i l lh a v eal i t t l eb i to fg a s .C o u ldIt a k e y o ua saf r i e nd ?A sap e r so n a lf av o r ?Th i si sn o tb u s in e s s . " " OK,Iund e r s t an d .So... ? " " W ec an ' tt a lkabou ti th e r e "andw em a d ea nap p o in tm e n ttom e e ta tac a f e . Iw en ttoth ec a f e .H ea r r iv edl a t e .W h i l eIw a i t e dIw a t c h e day o u n gm a ns i t t in gn e x tto m e .H e w a sd r aw in gM a r i ann en a i l edt oac r o s s ,H i t l e rd r e s s e da sa ne x e c u t io n e r ,asm a l ld o gw i th M u s so l in i ' s f a c el i c k in gb loodf r onth eg round . Th ea s s i s t an td i r e c to ra r r iv ed .W ea g r e edtol e av eth en e x tm o rn in g ,fo rap a ym e n to f5 0 0f r a n c s . S oIfo u n dm y s e l fp l ay ingth etou r i s t ,d r iv in gd ow nth eB a sq u ec o a s tina ne l e g a n tc a r .It r i e dt oe n jo yth e d r iv ea sm u cha spo s s ib l e . A tH end ay eI w en ts t r a ig h ttoth eb o r d e ra tth eI ru nb r id g e ,w h i c hr e k in d l e dm em o r i e so fth e S p a n i s hw a r .Iw a i t edinl i n ew i th m ylug g a g efo ra b o u ta nh o u r ,th ea s s i s t a n td i r e c to rh a v in gl e f tm et o m yf a t e .Th eF r en chg u a rds a id ,"B u ty ouh a v en oe x i tv i s a . ""N o ,Ih a v ea na s s ig nm e n t . ""O k ,o k , "an d h el e tm ep a s s .Th eF r en c hcu s tom sch e c k e dth ro u g hm ylu g g ag e .Ih a dal i t t l em o r em o n e yth a nw a s a l l ow e d ,b u ta f t e rg iv ingth eg u a rd50f r a n c s ,h eg a v em en op ro b l em s . Th e r ew a sano th e rl ongl i n ea tth eb r id g e . Ac o n t i n u o u sl in eo fp e o p l ew e ig h e dd ow nw i th lu g g ag em ov eds low lyf romF r en chcu s tom stoS p a n i s hc u s tom s .I tw a sd r i z z l in g .B e h in dm ew a sag i r l w i thah e av ysu i t c a s ew h i c hIh e lp ed m ov ee v e ryt im ew eto o kas t e pfo rw a rd .He rf a c elo o k e df am i l i a r : "H a v e n ' tIs e eny ousom ewh e r e ?W e r ey o ua tth ep o l i c es t a t io na tB a y o n n e ? ""N o . " B e fo r eg e t t ingtoth ecu s tomss t a t io n ,th e r ew a sap o l i c eo f f i c e ." I t a l i a n ? "th eem p lo y e ea sk e di n a s to n i s hm e n t ."Whya r ey oul e av ingF r an c eju s ta sth eI t a l i a nt r o o p sa r ee n t e r in g ?Y o us h o u ldb einth e a rm ya ty o u rag e . "Th eSp an i shF a s c i s t sh a dt a k e no nth er e sp o n s ib i l i tyo fs en d i n gI t a l i a nd e s e r t e r sb a ck toI t a lyfo rth epun i shm en tth eyd e s e rv e d ."N o ,s i r ,IamJ ew i s h ,a n dIh a v en om i l i t a ryo b l ig a t io n s . "I s h ow e dh imado cum en tw h i chp rov edm yc l a im ,a n dh el e tm ep a s s . Th e r ew a sano t h e rl in ea tcu s tom s .W h i l eIw a i t e dIs awF a l a n g i s ts ig n se v e ryw h e r ea n dq u o t e s f romF r an c ow r i t t eni nl a rg eb lo ckl e t t e r s . W h enth eg i r lb eh ind m el e f tth ep o l i c es t a t io n ,s h ea s k e dm e ."D idy o uev e re a ta tP r o s p e ri nth e L a t i nQ u a r t e r ? ""Y e s .W e l l ,w h a tdoy ouk n ow ! "W eimm e d i a t e lyb e c am eo ldf r i e n d s .W eh a dn e v e r s p o k e ntoe a cho th e r ,bu tIh adno t i c e dh e r .S h ew a sn ' tp r e t ty ,b u ts h eh a dal iv e lya n da t t r a c t iv e e x p r e s s io n .Sh eh adev enf l i r t e dw i t hm eab i t. . .Y e s ,o fc o u r s e. . .Ih a de v e no n c efo l l ow e dh e rin toa c a f eo n c e ,b e fo r em ee t ing M i l a ,bu tw i tho u ts u c c e s s . "W h e r ea r ey oug o ing ? "sh ea sk e d ."P r o b a b lytoL i s b o n . ""M e ,to o " "G o o d ,t h e nw e ' l lt r a v e l to g e th e r . ""O k . Myn am ei sAnn i . ""P l e a s edtom e e ty o u . " W ew e r eou t !W eto okat ax itot h es t a t io na n db o u g h tas e c o n dc l a s st i c k e ttoV i l l a rF o rm o s o ,o n th eP o r tu g u e s ebo rd e r .Th e r ew e r enoth i r dc l a s st i c k e t so ns a l e .Th eau t h o r i t i e sw a n t e dtog e tb a c ka l lth e p e s e t a sth e yh adso l du s . Ip u tm ylu gg ag eonth et r a in ,andw e n ttoth ep o s to f f i c etos en dat e l e g r amto m ym o th e r .W h e n Ig o tb a cko nth et r a in ,A nn iw a sc ry ing .S h ew a sc ry in gfo rF r a n c e .S h ew a sL i th u a n i a n ,b u ts h ew a s c ry in gfo rF r an c e ' sd e f e a t .Sh ew a sno tc ry in gfo rh e r s e l f sh ew a sa nem p lo y e eo fa no rg a n i z a t io nw h o s e n am eId id n ' tund e r s t anda ndsh ew a sg oin gtow o rki ni t sL i s b o no f f i c e .S h ec r i e df o rF r an c e ,a si f a n d e v e nm o r eth ani f sh ew e r eF r en ch . * * * Th et r a ins t a r t ed m ov ing .W ec ro s s edth eg r e enh i l l so fth eB a sq u ec o u n t ry ,th e nth ed e so l a t e S p a n i s hh ig h l an d s .W et r av e l eda l ln ig h t . W ak in gu pe a c ht im eth et r a ins to p p e d ,Ir e adth en am e so fth e s t a t io n s . . .B a l l ado l id . . .S a l am an c a. . .i tw a sl ik eag e o g r a p h yb o o k . Th e r ew e r eso ld i e r sina l lt h es t a t io n s .B a r e fo o tp e a s a n tw om e nso lds an dw i c h e sm a d ew i thb l a c k b r e ado rw a t e r .P ov e r ty w a sev e ryw h e r e .Th i sw a st h eo n lyo u t c om eo fth eS p a n i s hw a rt h a tIc o u lds e e f romth et r a in . 15 5 S om em ino ro f f i c e r so fF r an co ' sa rm ye n t e r e do u rc om p a r tm e n t ,h a p p ya tH i t l e r ' sv i c to ry .Th e y h a db r o u g h tth e i row nd i nn e rw i thth em :v e ryb l a c kb r e ad w i that i n yb i to fv e rys p i c ym e a t ,a si f s p i c in e s sw ou ldcom p en s a t efo ri t ssho r ts u p p ly .I fF r an c o ' so f f i c i a l sw e r ee a t in gl ik eth i s ,th e nth er e s to f th ep o p u l a t io nm u s tb edy ingo fhung e r .Th e r ew e r ef ewc ig a r e t t e s ,a n dth eto b a c c ow a sh o r r ib l e ."W e h a v etor e b u i ld. . . "th eys a i d ,a si ftoex cu s eth em s e lv e s . I tw a sc l e a rth a tw ew e r ef l e e ing H i t l e r ,a n dth a tw ed e sp i s e dF a s c i sm .D e sp i t eth i s ,th e yw e r e v e ryk in d .P oo rp eop l ea lw ay sadm i r eandr e s p e c tfo r e ig n e r s .W i thL a t ing e n e ro s i tyth e yo f f e r e du ss om e o fth e i rd in n e randth e i rc i g a r e t t e s .Th eyin s i s t e dt h a tw eh a v es om e .Th e ys p o k eo n lyS p a n i s h ,b u tw e m a n ag e dtound e r s t an dth em .Th eyw e r ev e ryn o i s y ,a n dth e yg e s tu r e da n im a t e d l yw i thth e i rh a n d s .Th e y f l i r t e dal i t t l ew i t hA nn i ,an dm ad eh e rl au g hth r o u g hh e rt e a r s . Ik e p tto m y s e l f :th ey w e r eth ee n em y .B u ti tw a sim p o s s ib l etoa v o idth e i rf r i e n d l in e s s .T h e y a sk e dm yn a t ion a l i ty ." I t a l i an ? "s a i don eo fth em ,a n dh ep ro u d lys h ow e dm eac e r t i f i c a t ew i tha nI t a l i a n d e s ig naw a r d eddu r ingth eSp an i shw a r .Ir e a c t e dc o ld ly ."D o n ' ty o ul ik eM u s s o l i n i ? "h ea sk e d .Id idn o t a n sw e r . W ew e r eth elo s e r s ,andt h e s ey o u n gm e nw e r eth ev i c to r s .I tw a sim p o s s ib l etoh a t et h ema s in d iv id u a l s :y oung ,exub e r an t ,ig no r an t ,e ag e rtoe s t a b l i s hh um a nc o n t a c t .I tw a sim p o s s ib l etoh a t eth em , b u tIc o u ldn ' tfo rg e tth a tt h e yw e r eth een em y . 15 6 Ch ap t e rTh i r t e en P o r tu ga l(Summ e r194 0 ) Th en ex ta f t e rn oonth et r a i ns topp e da tF u e n t ed eO n o roo nth eS p a n i s hb o r d e r ,a n dth e na tV i l a r F o rm o s oo nth ePo r tug u e s ebo rd e r .Ev e ry o n eh a dtog e to f fth et r a ina tV i l a rF o rm o s a . P o r tug a l :Ik n ewon lyi t sn am e ,w h i c hIh a dl e a r n e di nh ig hs ch o o l .N o ,Id idk n ows om e th in g m o r e :th a tL i sbo nw a si t sc ap i t a l ;th a tL i s b o nw a slo c a t e do na ne s tu a ry w h e r eth eC l ip p e rh a dl a n d e d ; th a tS a l a z a r ,th eh e ado fi t sg ov e rnm en tw a saF a s c i s tC a th o l i cd i c t a to r ;a n dth a ti t ss e c o n dl a rg e s tc i ty w a sO p o r to ,w h e r eC a r loA lb e r to ,th eex k in go fI t a ly ,h a dg o n ein toe x i l e .Id idn o te v e nk n owt h a tth e r e w a saco n n e c t i onb e tw e enO po r toandPo r tw in e . W i thth i sl im i t e dcu l tu r a lp r ep a r a t io n ,Ig o to f fth et r a intoh a v em yp a s s p o r tc h e c k e d .A tth e p o l i c es t a t io nI w a st o ldt h a tIcou l dno tc o n t in u eo ntoL i s b o n ,w h e r et h e r ew e r ea l r e ad yt o om a n y r e fu g e e s .E v e ry on eon m yt r a in w a sb e in gro u t e dtoa nin l a n dv i l l a g ef am o u sfo ri t sh o ts p r in g s ,c a l l e d C o r i a-o rw a si tC u r i a ? Th ePo r tug u e s ew a n t e dtof i l lth e i rh o t e l s . Ih a dnow i shtog otoC u r i a ,wh i chIim a g in e dtob eal i t t l eP o r tu g u e s ev i l l a g ew i t hn oc o n n e c t io n toth eo u t s id ew o r ld .It r i edtoim p r e s sth eem p lo y e eo fth eim p o r t a n c eo fm y"m i s s io no rd e r s "w h i c h s p e c i f i e dL i s bona sm yd e s t i n a t ion .Th eem p lo y e ew a sn o ta ta l lim p r e s s edb yth eo rd e r so faF r e n c h g ov e rnm e n tw h i chh adc e a s edtoex i s t . S oIshow edh imal e t t e rf r omaf r i e n do fm in e ,ap h y s i c sp ro f e s s o ra tth eU n iv e r s i tyo fL i sb o n , w h oh a di n v i t ed m eth e r et og iv esom el e c tu r e s .( Ih a dw r i t t e ntoA u r e l ioD aS i l v a ,ac o l l e ag u eo fC u r i e , toa s kh imfo rt h i sl e t t e r . )I tw a sim po s s ib l et og otoL i sb o n ."A tl e a s ts e n dm et oap l a c ew h e r eth e r e ' sa u n iv e r s i ty ! "Ib egg ed . Myp a s s ionfo rcu l tu r er e ro u t e dm e toC o im b r a .O r ,r a th e r ,r e ro u t e dm yp a s s p o r tto C o im b r a ,an dIw a sto l dth a tIw ou ldf indi ta tth elo c a lp o l i c es t a t io n . Ih u r r i edtofo l low m yp a s spo r ttoi t su n k n ow nd e s t i n a t io n .It r i e dtoe x c h an g em o n e ytob u ya t i c k e t ,b u tw a sunh app i lys u rp r i s e dtof in dt h a tF r e n chf r a n c sc o u ldn olo n g e rb ee x ch a n g e ds in c en o o n e t ru s t e dt h em .Soth e r eIw a s ,inV i l a rFo rm o s o ,al i t t l etow nino n eo fth em o r eb a r r e np a r t so fth eS p a n i s h p e n in s u l a ,w i tho u tap ennyin m ypo ck e t-a n dw i th o u tm yp a s s p o r t !Am o ngo th e rth in g s ,i tw a sd in n e r t im e ,an dIw a shung ry . M yn ewf r i end A nn iw a sc ry ingo nth es id ew a lkinth es t a t io nw h i l eI w a lkeda l o n gth et r a ck s , w o r ry in g .Ad i s t ing u i s h edg en t l em anapp r o a ch e dm ean da sk e dm yn a t io n a l i ty ." I t a l i a n , "Is a id . " I t a l i an . Th a t ' sad i f f i cu l tp rob l em . Th e r ea r eo rg a n i z a t io n sf o rth eF r en c h ,th eB e lg i a n s ,t h e P o l e s ,e t c .Th e i rcon s u l a t e st ak ec a r eo fr e fu g e e s .B u tt h e r e ' sn o th in gfo rth eI t a l i a n s . " "O k ,ok ,I ' l lf ig u r eou tsom e th ing .Ih a v eag o ldc h a int h a tIc ans e l l...I ' l lb eab l etoe a tfo raf ew d a y s .. .th e nI ' l lg otoC o im b r a ,o rI ' l lw o rkh e r eam o n gth ep e a s an t s . " "A r ey ouaF a s c i s t ? " Ith oug h tth equ e s t ionw a si nd i s c r e e t .H ows h o u ldIa n sw e ri tinP o r tu g a l ,tos om e o n ew h olo o k e d l i k eag o v e rnm en tem p loy e e ? "M e ?O h ,Ip aynoa t t en t i o ntopo l i t i c s . " "O k .I fy ouw an t ,y ouc ang ototh eE n g l i s h .Th e yw i l lg iv ey o us om e th in gtoe a t . " 15 7 Th ed i s t ing u i s h edg en t l em anh adb e ens e n ttoth eb o rd e rto w e l c om es om eo f f i c i a l sv i s i t in ga n e x p o s i t io nt h a th adju s top en edinL i sb on(E s p o s i c a od oM u n d oP o r t u g u e z ) .I n s t e ad ,s e e in gth ef lo c k so f r e fu g e e sa r r iv e ,h ew a sdo i ngh i sb e s tt oh e lpt h em . H etook m etoth eEng l i sh .I tm u s th av eb e enaQ u a k e ro rg a n i z a t io n .I tw a sl a t e ,a n dth eyh a dn o m o r es o u p .Th eyg av em etw oh a r dbo i l e de g g s .Th ed i s t in g u i s h e dg e n t l em a nb r o u g h tm etoh i sh o u s e , h a ds om e o n es e tth et ab l e ,andadd eds a l a d ,b r e ad ,b u t t e ra n dw in et oth eh a rdb o i l e de g g s .I w a sv e ry m u c hs u rp r i s edtof ind A nn ith e r e . Th e r ew a sn oo rg a n i z a t io nfo rL i th u a n i a n s ,a n dth ed i s t in g u i s h e d g e n t l em a nh adinv i t edh e rt oe a tands l e epi nth eh o u s ew h e r eh ew a ss t a y in g . A tth et a b l eth ed i s t ing u i sh edg en t l em a n ,h i sw i f e ,A n n i ,a n dIh a dap l e a s a n tc o n v e r s a t io n .A n n i h a ds t o p p e dc ry ing .B u tsh eh adc r i edinth ep o l i c es t a t io n ,a n dth ep o l i c eh a dg iv e nh e rp e rm i s s io ntog o toL i s b o nw h e r esh ew a st ow o rka sas e c r e t a ryfo rH ICEM[H IAS ,inE n g l i s h ,fo rH e b r ewImm ig r a t io n A idS o c i e ty ] .Ithoug h tth eho sp i t a l i tyex t r a o rd in a ry .A f t e rtw om o n th sIl e a rn e dth a ti tw a sty p i c a lo f P o r tu g a l . A f t e rm ym e a l ,th ed i s t i n g u i sh edg e n t l em a nto o km etoas h o p k e ep e rw h omh ep e r s u a d e dto e x ch a n g e8 0e s c udo sfo rm y1 ,000f r an c s(Tw od a y se a r l i e rth ee x c h a n g er a t ew a s5 0 0e s c u d o s . )I tw a s e v e n in g ,a n dIexp e c t edtosp endt h en ig h tinth eo p e n .B u tth ed i s t in g u i s h edg e n t l em a nfo u n dm earo om w i thap e a s a n tfo rf iv ee s cu do s .Is l ep tons ev e r a lt a b l e sp u s h e dto g e th e r ,c o v e r e db ya m a t t r e s so fp r i c k ly h a y .Th e r ew e r ec l e ansh e e t sandb l a nk e t s .Th en ex td a yIaw ok ef l e a b i t t e n ,a n dw a ss o r ryIh a dn o ts l e p t o u t s id e .Ib oug h tath i rdc l a s st i ck e tfo rC o im b r aa n dl e f t .A n n i ,th ec ap i t a l i s t ,t r a v e l e di ns e c o n dc l a s s , a n dId e sp i s e dh e rm idd l ec l a s sv a lu e s . Th et r ips t a r t edinb a r r e nco un t ry s i d e ,an de n d e dinc o u n t ry s id eth a tlo o k e dl ik eT u s c a n y .Th esu n w a ss e t t in gb eh in dth eh i l l s ,r e f l e c t i ngonth eM o n d e g o .C o im b r aw a sa no ldc i t y ,a ne n ch a n t in gp i c tu r e o nah i l llo o k ingov e rag r e env a l l ey . A f t e rab r i e fl ookIh e ad edtow a rd sas e ed yh o t e lth a ts e em e dtof i tm yr e so u r c e s .Ito o karo om (w i th o u tru nn ingw a t e r )w h i chIsh a r edw i thn um e ro u sf l e a s .Iq u i c k lyf e l la s l e e p ,b u ta ta b o u tt e no ' c lo c k s om e o n ek n o ck ed .I tw a sapo l i c eem p lo y e ew h o wo r eg l a s s e sa n ds p o k ep a s s ab l eF r en c h .T h eh o t e l ow n e r sh a dto l dh imo fm ya r r iv a l . Wh enh ea s k e dfo rm yd o c um e n t s ,Ir e p l i e dt h a tth ep a s s p o r ts h o u l d h a v eb e ens en ttoh i so f f i c e .B u th eh adn o tr e c e iv e di t ,a n da sk e dfo rth er e c e ip t .T a k in gi t ,h eto ld m eto s to pa tth es t a t i ont h ef o l low ingd ay . Th en e x tm o rn ingI w en to u ttor e co n n o i t e rm yn ews u r ro u n d in g s .S e a r c h in gfo rth eu n iv e r s i ty , th ep o l i c e ,andt h eAm e r i c a ncon s u l a t e ,Iw e n tt oab o o k s to r e ,w h e r eIw a sto ldt h a tth ec lo s e s tAm e r i c an c o n su l a t ew a sinL i sbon( ab ads t a r t ) ,andt h a tth eu n i v e r s i tya n dth ep o l i c es t a t i o nw e r ea tt h eto po fth e h i l l .Iw a sg iv enin s t r u c t ion sfo rt ak ingth es t r e e t c a r ,b u tId e c id e dtow a lktos av em o n ey . A n dso ,o nanem p tys tom a ch ,I w a lk e du pC o im b r a ' sm e d i e v a ls t r e e t s .In o t i c e dy o u n gp e o p l e d r e s s edi nb l a ck ,w e a r ingl a rg ec ap e s ,loo k in gl ik em u s i c i a n sina no r c h e s t r ao rm em b e r so far e l ig io u s o rd e r .Ia sk edon eo fth emfo rd i r e c t ion stoth eu n iv e r s i ty ,i n v e n t in ga w o rdt h a tw a sac ro s sb e tw e e n I t a l i a n ,F r e n ch ,G e rm an ,andEng l i sh .H es t a r t e dalo n gs p e e chinP o r tu g u e s e ,f rom w h i c hIu n d e r s to o d th a th ew a sas tud en t ,t h a th ew a sonh i sw a ytoth eu n iv e r s i ty ,a n dth a th ew o u ldb eh a p p ytot a k em e th e r e .H ew a sd r e s s edinth et r a d i t io n a lc l o th e so ft h es t u d e n to rg a n i z a t i o n . W et a lk e da l lth ew a y , g e s t i c u l a t in gm o r eth a nu su a l . Iu nd e r s toodl i t t l eo fw h a th es a id ,a l th o u g hIc o u ldu n d e r s t a n da n y th i n gth a tw a sw r i t t e n .Is a id "P h y s i c s , "a n dh es ig n edth a th ed idno tu n d e r s t a n d .Is a id"C h em i s t ry "a n dh et o o km etoth ec h em i s t ry d e p a r tm e n t . Th e r eIfoundanEng l i sh sp e ak in ga s s i s t a n tw h oh a ds tu d i e dinC am b r id g e .H es h ow e dm eth e l a b ,th em o s tp r i z edin s t r um en t s ,and w et a lk e da b o u tr e s e a r c h .Ia sk e di fth e yc o u ldh e lp m eg e tto L i sb o n ,a n dt h eys a idth a tt h eycou ldn ' th e lp m e .I nth ee nd ,t h e yb ro u g h tm etot h eP h y s i c sD e p a r tm e n t , s ay in gth a tth ed i r e c to rspo k eF r en cha ndth a th eh a dw o rk e da tth eC u r i eL a b o r a to ry . P r o f .M a r io A ug u s toS i lv ai son eo fth em o s tm a rv e lo u sm e nIh av ee v e rm e t .Ifo u n dm y s e l f b e fo r ea m a no fabou tfo r t y ,w i thg l a s s e s ,h e av yr a th e rth a nf a t .W et a lk e da b o u tth eC u r i eL a b o r a t o ry , w h e r eh eh a dw r i t t enh i st h e s i saf ewy e a r sb e fo r eI w a sth e r e ,a n do fc omm o nf r i e n d s .Ito ldh im m y s i t u a t io n ,a n dh el e f th i sw o rktoh e lp m e ,a c c om p a ny in gm etoth ep o l i c es t a t io n ,toth eG o b e r n a d o r ,a n d 15 8 toin f lu e n t i a lp ro f e s so r s . Th er e su l t :no th in g .O n lyth ep o l i c ein L i s b o nc o u ldd e c id em yc a s e . Th e G o b e rn a d o rp rom i s edth a th ewou ldh and l em yc a s ew h e nh ew e n ttoL i s b o naf ewd a y sl a t e r . M a r ioS i lv ainv i t ed m etol un cha tth eb e s tc a f einth ec i ty .Th u s ,o nth ev e ryd a yth a tIth o u g h tI w o u ldd i eo fhung e r ,Ih adon eo fth eb e s tm e a l so fm yl i f e .H o r sd ' o e u v r e so fc r a b ,th e ns o u p ,f i s h ,m e a t , f r e s hf ru i t ,c ak e ,g ood w in e .Iw o l f edi td ow nb e c a u s eIw a sh u n g rya n dId id n ' tk n ow w h e nIw o u ldb e a b l etoe a tag oodm e a lag a i n . A f t e rlun c hS i lv ap r e s en t e dm etoth o s eo fh i sf r i e n d s wh os p o k eo ru n d e r s to o dF r en c h . Am o n g o th e r sI m e tar e t i r edc ap t a inandanex s en a t o r .Th e ya sk e dm yo p in io no fth eF r e n chd e f e a t ,a n dIto ld th em ,c au t iou s ly ,o fm yop in io no fb e t r a y a lb yto po f f i c i a l sinth ea rm ya ndb yth eF a s c i s tm id d l e c l a s s . Th el i t t l eg roupl i s t en edt om ew i thg r e a tin t e r e s t ,a n dw h e nIf in i s h e ds om e o n es a id ,"Y e s ,y o u ' r er ig h t . Th a t ' se x a c t ly w h a tw eth ink . "Ig a th e r e dc o u r a g ea n ds p o k em o r eo p e n ly .W e w e r einc om p l e t e a g r e em e n t .A slu ckw ou ldh av ei t ,Ifoundm y s e l finag ro u po fa n t i f a s c i s t sw h os h a r e dm a n yo fm yid e a s . Th e nw er e tu r n edtoth eun iv e r s i ty ,a n dIw a st a k e nt os e eth ech a p e la n dth ea n c i e n tl ib r a ry .W e s to p p e dtot ak einth ev i ewo fth eg r e env a l l e y wh i c hl a yb e l ow .I tlo ok e dw e l c om in g ,a si fo p e n in gi t s a rm stor e c e iv eafo r e ig n e rw hoh adju s ta r r iv e d . * * * Ir em a in edin C o im b r alon g e rth a nIh a de x p e c t e d-tw om o n th s ,w i thaf ewi n t e r ru p t io n s .I n s p i t eo fth er e a s on sf o rm ys t ay ,Po r tug a la n dth eP o r t u g u e s ew e r ep l e a s an ta n di n t e r e s t in g .I nth o s etw o m o n th sIb e c am equ i t ef am i l i a rw i thPo r tu g u e s el i f e .N a tu r a l lyIs awi tf roma m id d l e c l a s sp e r s p e c t iv e , s in c eI w a sw e l com edby ,andl iv edin m id d l ec l a s ss o c i e ty .B u tIt r i e d ,a sm u c ha sp o s s ib l e ,tog e ta n o b j e c t iv eid e ao fth ecoun t r yandi t sp eop l eo fa l lc l a s s e s . Il e a rn e dth el ang u ag equ i c k ly .U n a b l etof in daP o r tu g u e s eg r amm a rb o o kw r i t t e ninF r e n cho r I t a l i a n ,Iu s edaF r en c ht ex tbookw r i t t e nfo rP o r tu g u e s es p e ak e r s ,a n dl e a rn edaf ewh u n d r e dw o rd s .Th e ro o t so fth ew o rd sa r eL a t i n ,ex c ep tfo raf ewA r a b i cw o rd s .Iq u i c k lyl e a rn e dh owtoc h an g eI t a l i a na n d F r en c hw o rd stom ak eth emund e r s t and ab l etoth eP o r t u g u e s e . A sm u chIl ik ePo r tug a l ,Ih av etoa dm i tId on o tl ik eth el a n g u a g e .I ti sv e ry m u c hl ik eS p a n i s h , b u tth eL a t inr oo t sa r ecu to f fa si fth eyh a da t ro p h i e d .I td o e sn o th a v eth eb e a u t i fu ls o u n do fI t a l i a n ,o r th er e f i n e dsw e e tn e s so fF r en ch .Th em an yn a s a ls o u n d sm ak ei ts t i l ll e s sm u s i c a l .B u ti ft h el a n g u a g ei s n o tm u s i c a l ,th e Po r tug u e s et h em s e lv e sa r e .T h e ys p e a kv e rylo u d lya n df a s t ,th e i rf a c e sa r ev e ry e x p r e s s iv e ,andt h eyu s eth e i rh and sf r en e t i c a l ly . Ag roupo fPo r tug u e s ei sn o i syan de f fu s iv e .Tw of r i e n d sw h oh a v en o ts e e ne a c ho th e rfo raf ew d a y sw i l ln o ton lysh ak eh and s ,th eyhuga n dp a te a c ho th e ro nth eb a ckw i tht h el e f tp a lm .I fth e yh av e n o ts e ene a cho th e rf o ram on th ,th eym ig h tk i s se a c ho th e r ' sch e ek s-inp u b l i c . Th i sco rd i a l i tyi sno tju s taf a c ad e .T h eP o r t u g u e s ea r ew a rma n de x u b e r a n t ,a sw e l la sg e n e ro u s a n da f f e c t io n a t e .A f t e raf eww e ek sth e r e ,m yf r i e n d sa d d r e s s e dm ea som e uam i g o.Th ep h r a s ew a su s ed f r e q u e n t lyinc onv e r s a t i on ,r ep l a c ingth efo rm a lth i r dp e r s o n .Th e r ew e r esom a n yw a y stoa d d r e s sp e o p l e , th a tIn e v e rl e a rn edtou s eth eapp rop r i a t ep h r a s e s . Ar e sp e c t fu lth i rdp e r s o nf o rmr a n g e df romv o s s a E x c e l l e n c ia ,os enho rdou t o r , "os e nho rtot h em o r ef r i e n d lyom e uam i g oo rv o c e .A f t e rv o c eo n eu s e dt h e s e c o n dp e r s ons ing u l a r .W om enw e r eadd r e s s e da sE x c e l l e n c iao rs en h o r ad o n n a . I ns p i t eo fth e s eg r ad a t ion so fr e s p e c t ,th eP o r tu g u e s ea r ev e rys t r a ig h t fo rw a rd .T h e i rh o s p i t a l i ty i si n c r e d ib l e ,a sm ys to ryshow s .A ssoo na sIa r r iv e dIw a sa c c om p a n i e db ym yn ewf r i e n dtot h el o c a l b o o k s to r e .Th e r eIfoundt h el i t t l ebooko fF r e n chc o n v e r s a t io nm e n t io n e da b o v e .Th in k in gth a ti tw o u ld b eu s e fu l ,Ia sk edi t sp r i c e .Th ebook s e l l e rg a v ei tt om ea sag i f t . M yp ro f e s so rf r i e ndcon t i n u edtoin v i t em etolu n c ha n dtod in n e rf o rth ee n t i r et im eth a tIw a sin P o r tu g a l .W h enh el e f tfo rh i sv a c a t iona tth eb e a c h ,h ein v i t e dm etog ow i thh im .Id idn o tw a n tt oa c c e p t a n da tt im e sIh id ,soth a th ew ou l dno tin v i t em etolu n c h ,e a t in gb r e adf romab a k e ryo nap u b l i cb e n ch . B u tw h e nIs awS i lv aag a i n ,h ew a ss in c e r e lyin s u l t e d .S oIe n d edu pe a t in ga th i sh o u s ea l lth et im e .H e h a df iv ec h i ld r en ,am ongw homth e r ew a sasw e e tfo u ry e a ro ldn am ed M a r i aL u i z a .S h eh a dlo n gb lo n d 15 9 c u r l s ,a n ds h ew a sm yon lyPo r tug u e s eg i r l f r i e n d .A tf i r s tIc o u ld n ' tt a lktoh e r ,b u ta f t e rw a rd sw eh a d lo n g ,p l e a s an tco nv e r s a t io n s .D e a rM a r i aL u i z in h a ! W h enth ew ho l ef am i ly w en ttoth eb e a c ha tP r a i ad eM i r a ,th e yin s i s t e dth a tIco m ea n dv i s i t . Ito o kab u sth a tl e f tC o im b r ainth eev en i n g ,a n dr e tu rn e dth en e x tm o rn in g .Id idn o tw a n ttoim p o s ea s a no v e rn ig h tg u e s t ,s oIw en tonSund ay s ,w h e nth eb u sl e f tinth em o rn in ga n dr e tu rn e dinth ee v e n in g . Iw e n ttw oo rth r e et im e s ,a nde a cht im eth e yin s i s t e dt h a tIs t a yo n ,a n dIr em a in e dfo rth ew e ek .S oIh a d tw oo rth r e ew e ek so fv a c a t iononth eb e a c h ,w i t hw o n d e r f u ls u n b a th in ga n dsw imm in ging o o dc om p a n y , a n dth et r e a to fr e ad ingth ebook sinm yh o s t ' sl ib r a ry . Th eS i lv a ' sw e r en ' tth eon l yon e sw h ow e r ek in dt om e .Th ec i tye n g in e e r ,w h ow a sth eb ro th e r in l awo fm yf r i endinL i sb on ,r eg u l a r lyin v i t e dm etod in n e rw h e nIw a sintow na n dth ep ro f e s s o rw a sa t th eb e a c h .B yth a tt im e ,Inolong e rn e e d e din v i t a t io n s ,s in c eIh a db e ena b l etoe x c h an g em yf r a n c sa ta g o o de x ch a ng er a t e .A ta lm o s th a l fth ep r e -w a rr a t e ,If e l tr i c h .Ih a dtof ig h ttor e f u s eth ee n g in e e r ' s in v i t a t io n s ,ando f t enl o s tt h eb a t t l e .A f t e rd in n e rIo f t e nw e n ttoth em o v i e sw i thh ims in c eh eh a daf r e e p a s stos e v e r a lm ov i eth e a t e r s . M yf r i end sin s i s t e dt h a tIch ang eh o t e l s ,a n dt h e ys en tm etoP e n s io n eR o s a ,w h i c hw a sth em o s t e x p en s iv ea n da l sot h ec l e an e s t .Is t ay e dth e r efo ra b o u ta w e ek . Th e nI w e n ttos t a ya t ACE ,th e A s so c i a c io nC r i s t i a nodo sE s tud e n t e s ,ak in do fYMCA .I nth ew in t e r ,t h ero om sw e r er e n t e dtos tu d e n t s , b u tinth es umm e rth ey w e r eem p ty .Ir e n t e daro oma tap a l t ryp r i c ea n ds t a y e dfo rm o r eth a ntw o m o n th s . Wh enI w en ttop ay ,th ed i r e c t o rw o u lda c c e p to n lyat in ys um .A tth ev e rylowp r i c ew eh a d o r ig in a l lya g r e edu pon ,Iow edabou t200e s cu d o s .B u th ea s k e dm efo r8 0b e c a u s eth e yw e r ec l o s i n gth e b o o k san dth eyw e r e8 0e s c udo ssho r t .I fIh a dg iv e nh im m o r eh ew o u ldn o th a v ek n ow nw h a ttod ow i th th em o n e y . H ea l l ow ed m etop ay50o r100e s cu d o sfo rs om ea c t iv i ty ,b u tIh a dtoa rg u etog e th imto a c c ep t . "O n ehund r ede s cud o sa r ee qu a ltof iv ed o l l a r s .F i v ed o l l a r s ,m o r eo rl e s s ,a r en o tg o in gto m a k e a n yd i f f e r e n c eto m einAm e r i c a . ""F iv ed o l l a r sc anb ev e ryu s e fu ltoyo ui nAm e r i c a .I tm ig h tg iv ey o u o n em o r ed aytof ind w o rk . "H es en tm eo f fw i thb e s tw i s h e s ,a sw e l la sal e t t e rtoh i sf r i e n dw h ow a s d i r e c to ro fth eYMCAi nN ewY o rk . Th e r ew e r es om em od e rncom fo r t sa tt h e ACE ,b u ti ns om ew a y si tw a sq u i t ep r im i t iv e .T h e r e w a sag ym ,at en n i scou r t ,andashow e rth a th a dh o tw a t e rtw i c eaw e e k .B u ts i n c ei tw a ss umm e r ,th e r e w a sn oh o tw a t e r .Th eto i l e t sw e r eno tupto Am e r i c a ns t a n d a r d s .M yb e dc o n s i s t e do fa w o o d e nt a b l e w i tha m a t t r e s sm ad eo fh ay ,no tm o r eth a nf iv ec en t im e t e r sth i c k .B u tth es h e e t sw e r ec l e a n ,a n dt h e w h o l eh o u s ew a sc l e an .Ion lyfoundf l e a so c c a s io n a l l y .Iw o u ldt a k eas h ow e r ,t h e nf in daf l e a .I ' dt a k e a n o th e rs h ow e r ,andf i nda no th e r .I tw a sl ik eth i se v e ryd a y . No th i n gc o u ldb ed o n ea b o u ti t-i tm u s t h a v eb e e nth ec l im a t e . Iw a sno tth eon lyp e r sontob et r e a t e dw e l lb yth eP o r tu g u e s e .Ih e a rdas to r yo ftw ow om e n r e fu g e e sw h oh adg on et ot h er iv e rtow a shth e i rc lo th e s .S om ep e a s a n t so f f e r e dt od oi tf o rth em ,s ay in g th a tl a d i e sw e r en o ta c cu s tom edtoth a tk in do fw o rk . Th e yw a sh e dth ec l o th e sw i t h o u ta sk in gfo r p aym e n t . Th i ss how sth eg en e ro s i tyo fth eP o r tu g u e s ea sw e l la sth e i rb a ckw a rd n e s s . Th ep e a s a n t s th o u g h to fc l a s sd i f f e r en c e sa sb e ingno rm a l .Th i ss e rv i l ed e f e r e n c etoth em id d l e c l a s si sn o tfo u n di n m o r ead v a n c edcoun t r i e s . W h enIw a sno tinv i t ed -i th a pp e n e do c c a s io n a l ly-Ia t ea tas tu d e n tP e n s i ao .F o rf iv ee s c u d o s Ih a den o rm ou sm e a l s :sou p ,f i sh ,m e a t ,f ru i t ,w in ea n da sm u c hd e l i c io u sb r e a da sIw a n t e d . M a n y t r a v e l e r stoPo r tug a lh av eb e en m i s t ak eninth in k in gt h a tP o r tu g a li sar i c hc o u n t ryw h e r eo n ee a t sw e l l . B u tth e s ev i s i to r sdon ' tk nowth a ta l tho ug hfo o di sc h e a p ,m o s tP o r tu g u e s ec an n o ta f f o rdi t .Af a rm e re a t s d a rkb r e a d ,w i thano c c a s ion a ls a r d in e .N u t r i t i o ni ss ob a dth a tth e r ei sm u c ht u b e r c u lo s i sinth e c o u n t ry s id eins p i t eo fane x c e l l en tc l im a t ea n dah o ts u n . Th ef i sh e rm enIs awa tP r a i ad eM i r al iv e din m i s e r a b l ec o n d i t io n s .Th e yw o rk e do n lyaf ew m o n th say e a rw h e nth es e aw a sr e l a t iv e lyc a lm .Th e yw e r eto op o o rtoow nab o a tf romw h i c htos e to u t th e i rn e t s ,o rox entop u l lt h en e t sin .Th e yo f f e r e dth e i rs e rv i c e st oaf i s h in gc om p a nyth a tp a idth ema sm a l ls uma ndsom es a rd in e s .I tw a sh a r dw o rk ,r e q u i r in gm u s c l e so fs t e e l . 16 0 Th ef i sh inga tP r a i ad eM i r ai so n eo fth es c e n e sth a ti sin d e l ib lyim p r e s s e dinm ym em o ry .Av a s t b e a c ho ff i n es andex t end sa sf a ra son ec ans e e .B lu es k ya n dh o ts u n ;th es e aad a rk e rb l u e ,b ro k e nb y th ew h i t el in e so fw av e sb r e ak ingno i s i lyo nth es h o r e .A nu n l ik e lyb o a t ,w i t hth et r a d i t io n a ls l e n d e r c u rv e sth a tm u s th av eb e enun ch ang edfo rc en tu r i e s ,g o e so u tt os e a ,b o u n c in go nth eb r e ak in gw a v e sl ik e a ni l lu s t r a t ionou to fa m y tho log ybook .A b o u ttw e n t ys t ro n g ,s u n b u rn e df i s h e rm a nrowo u ttoin tot h e d e epw a t e r .Af ewhu nd r edm e t e r sf romsh o r e ,th e yd ro pth e i rn e t sth a ta r eth e np u l l e da s h o r eb yo x e n . M e a nwh i l e ,th ew om enw a i tonth eb e a c h ,t a lk in g .Th e yto o ,a r ed a rk ,w i thp u r ea n ds ev e r ef a c e s , th inf romp ov e r ty ,w o rkandch i ldb e a r ing .Th e yw a i ti nth es u ntoe a rnaf ewp e n n i e sb yc a r ry in gb a sk e t s o fs a rd in e s .Th ef i sh e rm enandth eo x eng ob a cka n dfo r t h ,f a s t e ra n df a s t e r ,u n t i lth er e s i s t a n c eo fth e n e t sd im in i s h e sa sth ey ’ r epu l l edou to fth ew a t e r .F i n a l ly ,a tak in do fg a l l o p ,w i the v e ry o n es h o u t i n g , e n co u r a g in gth eox ensoth ef i shd on ' te s c ap e ,th efu l ln e ti sd r a g g e du po ns h o r e .Y ouc a ns e eth el iv e f i s hs h in in ginth esun-on e ,tw o ,th r e e ,s om e t im e sf iv eb a sk e t so fs a rd in e s...s om e t im e sl a rg e rf i s h , m o r eth a na m e t e rlo ng .Th ef i shar eau c t io n e do f fo nth eb e a c h .Th es a rd in e sa r es o ldtoth es t o r e k e ep e r s , a n dth eb e t t e rf i shtoth ef ewv a c a t ion ingf am i l i e s . B u t ,tor e tu rntoth econd i t ion so fth eP o r t u g u e s ep e o p l e ,Ir em em b e ras a in t ' sd a yinC o im b r a w i thap ro c e s s ion w i thth eim ag eo fth es a in t ,th ec l e r g y ,d a u g h t e r so fC h r i s t ,e t c .D in n e rw a ss e rv e dt o f iv eh u n d r e dpoo rp eop l e ,w hop rob ab lyl e f tfu l la n dt h a n k fu l ,w i th o u tth in k in gth a tth e ym ig h tb ee n t i t l e d toe a to nth eo th e r364d a y so ft h ey e a r .Th elo c a lc l e r i c a l f a s c i s tg o v e rnm e n to rg a n i z e daf ewa n t i -TB c l i n i c s ,e n c ou r ag eddon a t i on so ffoodfo rth ep o o ro n c eay e a r ,a n din v i t e dp e o p l eto w e a rt r a d i t io n a l c o s tum e sa n dd an c e . Th e yw e r en i c ed an c e stho ug h ,in c lu d in gac om p e t i t i o nfo rth ef e a s to ft h eR e i n aS a n t aw h e r e t e am so ffo lkd an c e r sc am ef romn e a r byv i l l a g e sa n dt ow n s .Th e yh a dc o l o r fu lc o s tum e s ,l a rg es k i r t sa n d p r e t tyc o r s e t s .Th ew om enc a r r i e danam p h o r ao nas c a r fro l l e du po nth e i rh e ad s .Th e yn o to n lyw a lk e d , b u tt h e yd a n c e dw i thth eam pho r aonth e i rh e ad s . Th epov e r tyo fth ep eo p l ew a sr ev e a l e db yth ein c r e d i b l en um b e ro fs e rv a n t sem p lo y edb ym id d l e c l a s sf am i l i e s . Myf r i endth ep ro f e s so rh a df iv e .Y o u n gp e a s an tw om e nw e n tin tos e rv i c ew o rkfo raf ew p e n n i e s ,s oth a tth eycou lde a tl e f tov e r sf romth em id d l ec l a s sm e a l s .Th ei l l i t e r a c yr a t ew a sv e ryh ig h .I d o n ' tr em em b e rth ee x a c tn um b e r ,bu tIw o u ld n ' tb esu rp r i s edi fi tw e r e8 0% . S t u d en t sc am ef romth ew e l l -to d o ,m id d l ec l a s s .I m e ts ev e r a linth e ACE w h e r eIs l e p ta n di n th eP e n s i a ow h e r eIa t e .Th ey w e r ea f f a b l e ,t a lk a t iv e ,a n de x p an s iv ea n dv e rya t t a ch e dtoth e i rc o u n t ry a n di t sp a s tg lo r i e s .N a t ion a l i s t s ,w i thou tb e in gc h au v in i s t i c ,th e yk n ewth a tP o r t u g a lw a sasm a l ln a t io n , b u tth e i re y e ssho n ew h enth eyspok eo fth eg lo r io u sh i s to ryo fth e i rc o u n t ryinth ed a y so fs a i l in gs h ip s a n dth eg r e a tg eog r aph i cd i s cov e r i e s . Th e yw e r eaw a r eo fth ew e ak n e s so fth e i ra rm y ,b u tw e r e n e v e r th e l e s sconv in c ed ,a sinev e ryo th e rc o u n t ry ,th a tth eP o r tu g u e s ew e r eth eb e s ts o ld i e r sinth ew o r ld . Th e yh a ds om efondn e s sfo rEng l and ,w i thw h i c hP o r t u g a lw a sa l l i e d ,a n dt h e yd i s l ik e dS p a in .C u l t u r a l ly th e yw e r em o r ei n f lu en c edbyth eF r en ch . G e n e r a l ly ,th es tud en t sw e r eno tv e ryin t e r e s t e dinth ein t e r n a ls t a t eo fth e i rc o u n t ry .S i n c et h e y b e lo n g e dtot h em an ag e r i a lc l a s s ,th eys e em e du n in t e r e s t e dinw h e th e rth e i rc o u n t ry w a sru na sa d em o c r a cyo rad i c t a to r sh i p .Som esupp o r t e dS a l a z a r ,o th e r sw e r ea g a in s th im ,bu tf ewo fth em w e r e e x c i t e dab o u tt h ei n t e rn a ls i tu a t ion . Mo s to ft h emh o p e dth a tE n g l a n dw o u ldw int h ew a r . Th e r ew e r eaf ewp e op l ew ho w e r en o td i s in t e r e s t e d .I m e ts om eM a rx i s ts tu d e n t s ,w h ow e r e s tu d y in gth es a c r edt ex t so fM a rxandL e n inw i tha p p r o p r i a t es e r io u s n e s s .I ns p i t eo fth eC a t h o l i c -F a s c i s t d i c t a t o r s h ip ,th e s ey oungin t e l l e c tu a l sh a dt h e i row nn ew s p a p e r s .Aw e ek lyc a l l e dOS o lN a s c e n t ew a s o b v io u s ly M a rx i s t .O n ew e eki tp ub l i sh e da ne n t i r ep a g eo n" I d e a l i sma n dM a t e r i a l i sm "d e f e n d in gth e m a t e r i a l i s t i cp e r sp e c t iv e .R ad i c a ls tud en t sinC o im b r ap u b l i s h e da m o n th lyp a p e rc a l l e d OP e n s am e n to. Th e s ep u b l i c a t ion sl a s t eda bou tay e a r ,a f t e rw h i c hth e yw e r eb a n n e da n dth e yr e ap p e a r e du n d e ran ew n am e .Th eo rg an i z e r sw e r el e f tinp e a c ea slo n ga sth e yr e s t r i c t e dth em s e lv e sto...th in k in g .N a tu r a l ly th e yw e r er e l a t iv e lyc au t i o u s ,bu tId idn o th e a rt a lko fs p i e so ra r r e s t s .Ik n ewo n lyo n ep e r s o nw h oh a d b e enim p r i s onedf o rpo l i t i c a lr e a son s ,bu tIn e v e rl e a r n e dth ew h o l es to ry .Th el ib e r a ls tu d e n t sa dm i r e d h im ,b u tth eM a rx i s t sd idn o tt r u s th im .Th eF a s c i s t sr e sp e c t e dh im[M yf r i e n dM a r ioS i lv al a t e rl o s th is 16 1 p o s i t io na sp ro f e s s o ra nd w a sa l soa r r e s t e dfo rc r i t i c i z in gth eg o v e rnm e n t ,w h i c hh en e v e rt r i e dtoh id e f roma n y o n e . ] Ith inkth a tth eb e s tw aytod e s c r ib eP o r tu g u e s eF a s c i smi sth a tP o r tu g u e s eF a s c i smw a stoI t a l i a n F a s c i sma sI t a l i anF a s c i smw a stoG e rm anF a s c i sm .I nP o r tu g a lF a s c i smd idn o te x e r te x c e s s iv ev io l e n c e d u etoth eig no r a n c eandb a ckw a rdn e s so fi t sp eo p l e . Th ep r iv a t el i v e so fPo r tug u e s es tu d e n t sw e r es im i l a rtoI t a l i a ns tu d e n t s ,b u tw o r s e .O n ee v e n in g , a sIw a sg o inghom e ,I m e tag roupo fACEs t u d e n t sw h oin v i t e dm etoac a f e .W ea t ec r a ba n dd r a n kb e e r a n dp o r tw in e . Wh e nth ed r ink sh adh adth e i re f f e c t ,th eg ro u ph e ad e dfo rt h el o c a lb ro th e l .Ic o u ldn o t r e fu s et og ow i thth em ,andfo rh a l fanho u rIs a tinasm ok yf ro n tro omw h e r eth eam b i e n c em a d eI t a l i a n s tu d e n tb ro t h e l ss e emt a s t e fu l .D runk eny o u n gm e ns a ta l la ro u n dth ero om . Th e yw e r ee v e nm o r e d i s g u s t in gth anth et i pp l e r sw hosqu aw k e dn o i s i ly .T h ep ro s t i tu t e sw o u ldh a v ea p p e a r e du n a t t r a c t iv eto a n y o n ew i tha m in im a ls en s eo fe s th e t i c sa n ds e l f r e sp e c t .Th e ys a to nth ec l i e n t ' sk n e e s ,a n dth em e nw h o c o u ldn ' ta f fo r dth e i rs e rv i c e st r i edtow h e ed l ek i s s e sf romth em . Th efo l low ingd ay ,th e s es am es tu d e n t sc o u lds e r io u s lys ayth a ti tw a sn o tr e sp e c t a b l ef o rw om e n toa t t e n dth eun iv e r s i ty .Th e r ew e r ev e ryf eww om e na tth eu n iv e r s i tya n dth e yw e r ed i s t r u s t e d ,a si fth e y h a dn om o r a l s . Wom enw e r esuppo s edtob eig n o r a n ta n dtos t a yh om e ,a n dm id d l ec l a s sw om e nu p h e l d th i sm o r a lc o d eim po s edbyt r a d i t ionandth ec h u r c h . M ay b eth i sw a sth er e a sonth a tPo r tu g u e s ew om e ns e em e ds ob o r in g .Th e yc o u ldn o te v e nm a k e f am i lyl i f ein t e r e s t i ng ,thu sm i s s ingou to nth ep u rp o s eo fth e i rl iv e s .Toe s c a p eb o r e d oma th om e ,m e n w e n th om eon lytoe a tan ds l e epa ndinth ee v e n in gth e ym e ta tth ec a f ef o rth ec o n v e r s a t io na n d c om p a n io n s h ipt h a tw a sm i s s inga thom e * * * Iw en ttoL i sbo ns ev e r a lt im e stoa r r a n g etog e tm yAm e r i c anv i s a . M a r ioS i lv ao f f e r ed m eapo s i t io na sa na s s i s t a n ta tth eu n iv e r s i ty ,b u tth eP o r tu g u e s ep o l i c e w o u ldn o tl e tm es t ayinPo r tug a l .B e s id e s ,e v e nt h o u g hIh a dl e a rn e dth a tP o r tu g a lw a s um at e r r ab o n i ta , Id idn o tin t endtosp en tth er e s to fm yl i f einC o im b r a ' sh i l l s .B u tIw a sc au g h tinab u r e au c r a t i ct r a p :in o rd e rtol e av ePo r tug a lIh adtog oto L i s b o ntot a lktoth e Am e r i c a nc o n s u l .B u tIn e ed e dp o l i c e p e rm i s s i o ntog otoL i sbo n ,andth epo l i c e ,w h ow a n t e dm etol e av eP o r tu g a l ,w o u ldn o ta l lowm etog oto L i sb o n . If in a l lyd e c id edtol e av ew i thou tp e rm i s s io n .S i n c eId idn o th a v ea nid e n t i tyc a rdth a tw o u ld a l l ow m etos t ayinaho t e l ,Ig o tm y s e l fin v i t e dto M a rq u e sd aS i lv a ' sh o u s e .Iw e n ttoL i s b o nf iv eo rs i x t im e s ,a lw a y st r av e l l ingi l l eg a l lyonan ig h tt r a in .B e fo r el e av in gIa sk e dth ep o l i c efo rap e rm i t .Th e em p lo y e e sk n ew m e ,andth eya lw ay scon g r a tu l a t e dm eo nh oww e l lIw a sl e a rn in gth el a n g u a g e ,b u tth e y c o u ldn o tg iv em eap e rm i t .In e ed edano f f i c i a ld o c um e n tf romth ep o l i c einL i s b o n ,w h i c hw o u ldh a v e t a k e ntw ow e ek stog e t .B u tIw a sinah u r ry ,an dl e f ta n y h ow .O th e rw i s eIm ig h ts t i l lb einP o r tu g a l ! Th eem p loy e ew i t hth eg l a s s e s ,w h oh a daw a k e n ed m eth ef i r s tn ig h tinC o im b r a ,to ld m eth a tI n e ed e dal e t t e rf romth eI t a l i a ncon su l a t etog e tth ep e rm i t .M ay b eth eI t a l i a nc o n s u l a t ew o u ldh a v eg iv e n m eth el e t t e r ,bu tId idno tw an ttoa skfo ri t .Ih a dh a di tw i thF a s c i s t s !Th eem p lo y e ea sk e dm ew hyI d id n ' tw a n ttog otot h ec on su l a t e . " IamJ ew i sh . " "A h !Th eni t ' sb e t t e rth a ty oudon ' tg o . " "B u tIh av etog otoL i sbon . " "Th en ,g o .B u tIdon ' tk nowany th in ga b o u ti t .D o n ' tg otoah o t e l .Y o um ig h th a v et ro u b l e .. . .I h a v e n ' ts a idany th ing .D oyouund e r s t and ?D o n ' ts ayth a tIg a v ey o ua d v i c e .. . .Ish o u l d n ' t. . .B u t ,i fy o u h a v etog o ,y ouh av etog o . " "Th ank s .Youk now ,I ' v ea l r e adyb e enth r e et im e s . " "G o od ,bu tIdon ' tk nowany th inga b o u ti t .G o o dlu c k . " 16 2 B e fo r el e av ingI w ou ldl e av em ya d d r e s sa t ACE ,t e l l in gth emtot e l e g r a p hm ei fth ep o l i ce s h o u l dc om elook ingfo rm e .O n c eIr e c e iv e dat e l e g r ama ss o o na sIa r r iv e dinL i s b o n .Ih a dtor e tu r nto C o im b r ao nth eexp r e s st r a i n .Th epo l i c ew a n t e dt e ne s c u d o stor e n ewm yr e s id e n c ep e rm i t . It r av e l eda tn ig h tinth i rdc l a s s .Th et r a in w a sv e rys low ,a n dc row d e dw i thp e a s an t s .Iav o id e d t a lk in gb e c au s eId idno tw an tp eop l et ok n owth a tI w a safo r e ig n e r .Th ec a r sw e r ef i l th y .Th ee x p r e s s t r a inh a do n lyf i r s ta nds e c ondc l a s sc a r s ,m a d einAm e r i c a .Th e yw e r ec om fo r t a b l ea n da i rc o n d i t io n e d . O nth ee x p r e s s ,th et r ipl a s t edth r e eo rfou rh o u r s .I nth i rdc l a s s ,i tto o kt e nh o u r s . O n c e ,fo rach ang e ,Itookabu s .Is awh ow b o n i taP o r tu g a lw a s .Iw a ss oim p r e s s edb yth i st r ip th a ta ss o o na sIa r r iv edinL i sb onIw en ttoth eC a f eP o r tu g a l-a i rc o n d i t i o n e d-a n dw ro t eal e t t e rt o N a n i et e l l i n gh e rabou tth ePo r tug u e s ec o u n t ry s i d e .Th e r ew e r es t i l lw in dm i l l sf romth et im eo fD o n Q u ix o t e . Th ef i r s tt im eth a tIw en tt oL i sb o n ,M a rq u e sd eS i lv am e tm ea tth es t a t io n .H eto o km etoh i s h o u s einat a x i-w ec ro s s e dA v en id ad aL i b e rd a d e-a n dg a v em eb r e ak f a s t .T h e ya l ls p o k eF r e n cha th i s h o u s e .T h ech i ld r en w en ttot h eF r en c hL y c é e .M a r q u e zd aS i lv alo v e dF r a n c e ,b u th es a id ,"F r a n c e d o e sn ' te x i s tfo rm eanym o r e .Nowi t ' s'P e t a in l a n d . ' " A f t e rb r e ak f a s th ew e n ttot h ephy s i c sl a ba n dIw e n tt oth eAm e r i c a nco n s u l a t e . Ih a da sk edth eco n su l a t ei nB o rd e a u xtos en dm yd o c um e n t stoL i s b o n ,b u tth e yh a dn o ta r r iv e d . Th e ya d v i s edm etow r i t et oB o rd e auxtoh a v eth ems en t .N o tk n ow in gAm e r i c anw a y sy e t ,Ith o u g h tth e y w e r em a k in gfuno fm e .M ay b eth eyw e r eju s tt ry in gtog e tr ido fm e .W h yw o u ldth ec o n s u l a t eo fag r e a t n a t io np a ya t t e n t iontoal e t t e rw r i t t enbyap r iv a t ep e r s o nl ik em e ?O np a p e rth a tw a sn o te v e no f f i c i a l ?I w a sa l s oa f r a i dth a tm yl e t t e rw ou ldno ta r r iv e .Ia sk edth emtow r i t ea no f f i c i a ll e t t e r .Th e yto ld m eth e y h a dto om u c htodo ,andin s i s t edt h a tIw r i t e .Th e yw e r eo b v io u s lyb u sy .Ilo s ta l lh o p eo fe v e rg e t t in gto Am e r i c a .B u tId idw r i t e .. .on en ev e rk now s .. . Th econ s u l a t ew a sa lw ay sc row d e dw i thr e fu g e e sf roma l lo v e rth ew o r l d ,a l ls e e k in ga n Am e r i c a nv i s a . Mo s to ft h ems e em edtob eq u i t ew e l lo f f .Th ep o o r e ra n dw e a k e rr e fu g e e sh a db e e n w e ed e do u tb e fo r er e a ch in gL i sbon .Tho s ew h oh a dc om etoP o r tu g a lw i th o u tr e s ou r c e sl iv e do u t s id eth e c i ty .Th eH ICEMtookc a r eo fpoo rJ ew s . Iw en ttos e eA nn ia tth eH ICEMo f f i c e s ,a n dw ea r r a n g e dto m e e tinth ee v e n in g .P o o rA n n iw a s a lo n ea n du nh a ppy .H e ron lyf r i en d sw e r eh e rb o s sa n dh i sw i f e .S h ew i s h eds h ew e r einF r a n c e .Ic o u ld n o ta f fo r dtoo f f e rh e rm o r eth anacupo fc o f f e ea tth eC a f eP o r tu g a l .E v e ry o n etu rn e dtolo o kw h e nth e y s awa w om anen t e r ingth ec a f e .Th en w ew e n ttos e eth em o o no v e rth eT a g o ,a n ds low lyIw a lk e dh e r h om e .W et a lk edo flov e ,n a tu r a l ly ,andIto ldh e ra b o u tN a n i e .Ip rom i s edth a tIw o u lda sk M a rq u e zd a S i lv atog e tintou c hw i thh e r . Iw en tb a cktoL i sbontw ow e ek sl a t e r .A l lm yp a p e r sh a dc om ef romB o rd e au x ,in c lu d in gth e q u o t an um b e r .B u tt h econ su ls a idth a tt h e r ew e r en ewin s t ru c t io n sf romth eS t a t eD e p a r tm e n t ,a n dt h a tI w o u ldh a v etos t a r tov e r .Th ea f f id av i to fs u p p o r tw a sin a d e q u a t eb e c a u s eId idn o tp e r s o n a l lyk n owth e p e r s o nw h oh a dw r i t t eni t . Wh enIto ldh imth en am e so fp e o p l eIk n ewa tu n iv e r s i t i e s ,h eto l dm etog e t l e t t e r so fr e comm end a t i onf romth em .Iw ro t etoR o s s i ,C om p to na n dF e rm i . M e a nwh i l eM a rqu e sd aS i l v ah adb e entos e eA n n i ,a n dth e yh a db e c om eg r e a tf r i e n d s .Th e yh a d m e tag ro u po fPo r tug u e s eandr e fug e e sw h oa l ls p o k eF r en c h .N i t aw a sa tth ec en t e ro fth eg ro u p .A b e au t i f u lw om ano fabou tt h i r ty ,sh ew a sP o r tu g u e s e ,b u ts h eh a dl iv e da n dw o rk e dinF r a n c ealo n gt im e . S h eh a db e e nw e l l p a id ,an dh adb e c om eP a r i s i a n .I nP a r i ss h eh a dm a r r i e day o u n gP o l i s hC omm u n i s to f J ew i s hd e s c en t .H ew a sh a nd som etoo ,w i thsw e e tb lu ee y e s .H i sn am ew a sM i e t t e ,an am eth a ts o u n d e d l ik eac a t ' sn am e . N i t am ad eth ed e c i s ion s ,a l ongw i thh e rb ro th e rJo aoB r a n d ao ,as in g e rb yp ro f e s s io n .I nF r an c e h eh a do c c a s ion a l lysungonth er ad io .D u r i n gth ew a rh eh a dw o rk e dfo rth eM i n i s t ryo fIn fo rm a t io nfo r th eP o r t u g u e s el ang u ag er a d io .N i t ad an c ed .S h eh a dl e a rn e ds om ec l a s s i c a ld a n c efo rp l e a s u r e ,a n dn ow th a ts h ew a sp e nn i l e s ssh et houg h tsh eco u l dg iv esom ed an c er e c i t a l s . N i t a ,Jo ao ,and M i e t t eh ada r r iv edinP o r tu g a lw i thL a n g o u s t e .L a ng o u s t ew a sas a lm o n c o lo r e d C h ry s l e r" s p id e r "th a tN i t aandJo a oh adb o u g h ttoe s c a p eF r a n c e ,b u tth e yc o u ldn o ta f fo rdtob u yg a sfo r 16 3 i t .E v e ry o n espok ea f f e c t i o n a t e lyo fL ang o u s t ea si fi tw e r eaf am i lym em b e rw h oh a db e e na b a n d o n e do n th es t r e e t . M i e t t eh a ds e rv edinth eF r en cha rm y .W h i l eh ew a sw a n d e r in ga ro u n dB o r d e au xa n dH e n d a y e a f t e rth ed e f e a t ,h er anin t oL ang ou s t eandh i sw i f ea n db ro th e r in l awbyc h an c e .Th e yg av eh imc iv i l i a n c lo th e sa n dto okh imtoPo r tug a l ,s ay ingth a th ew a st h e i rb ro th e r ,aP o r tu g u e s ec i t i z e n .Th e yh a dh a dt o f a l s i fyh i sp a s spo r t ,bu tw h a th a rm w a sth e r einth a t ?T h e yl iv e di na na p a r tm e n tlo a n e dt oth emb ya p a in t e rw h ow a st r av e l l ing . Id idno tw an ttoim po s eon M a rq u e zd aS i lv a ,s oIw en ttos t a yinth i sh o u s ew h e r eIh a daro om inth ea t t i c .Ip a idal i t t l e ,a ndev e ry bodyw a sh a p p yw i thth ea r r a n g em e n t .W ea t eb a c ca l aa n ds a r d in e s , a n dw eh a dalo to ff un .Ev e ry bodys anga n dd a n c e da ndt a lk e d ,b u tw ea t el i t t l e . Mo n t p a rn a s s eh a dc om e toL i sb o n .Th e r ew a sev enahom o s exu a lp o e tw h oo f t e nc am etos e eu sinth ee v e n in g .H er e c i t e dp o e t ry a n ds a n gB r a z i l i anso ng s ,u s ingh i slongd e l i c a t eh a n d sine f f em in a t eg e s t u r e s . A n n il iv edc lo s eby ,a nds h ea l soo f t e njo ine du sinth ee v e n in g .M a rq u e zd aS i lv ah a ds o r to f f a l l e ninlo v ew i thh e r ,andJo aoB r an d aow a sc o u r t in gh e r .Id idn o tp a yalo to fa t t e n t io nt oh e ra sIw a s s t i l lth in k in go fN an i e .A n n ib e c am erud eto m e .S h el ik e dtob eth ec e n t e ro fa t t e n t io n ,a n dm a y b es h e h a dt a k e nal ik ingtom e . M i e t t eto ldu sabou tth ew a r .H i sr e g im e n th a db e e ns en ttod e f e n dap o s i t io n .E v e ryo n ed u ga t r e n c han dp r ep a r edt of ig h t .A f t e raf ewd a y sth e yg o to rd e r stor e t r e a ttod e f e n dap o s i t io naf ewh u nd r e d k i lom e t e r sb eh indth em .Soth eyr e t r e a t edf r omth eB e lg i a nf r o n t i e rtoB o rd e a u xw i th o u th a v in gs e e na s in g l eG e rm an .H es a idth a tw h ent h eG e rm a n sm e tr e s i s t a n c e ,t h e yto or e t r e a t e d ,b e c a u s eth e yk n ewth e y c o u ldg e tth roug han o th e rw ayw i thou taf ig h t . AB r a z i l i ana r ch i t e c tw h ow a sp a s s in gth ro u g hc am etol iv ew i thu sf o raf ewd a y s .Th e yc a l l e d h imlo c o ,b u th ew a sav e ryin t e r e s t i nga n din t e l l ig e n ty o u n gm a n .H es p o k eag r e a tm a n yl a n g u a g e s p e r f e c t ly .H ecou ldsp e akF r en ch w i tha c c e n t sf romth ev a r io u sP a r i s i a ns u b u r b s .H eh a dl iv e dint h e S o v i e tU n i o nfo raf ewy e a r s ,a ndh ew a se n th u s i a s t i ca b o u ti t .H es a idth a th ew a sn o taC omm u n i s t ,b u t th a tth eS o v i e tU n i onw a sap a r a d i s e .H eh a db e enp a idv e ryw e l linR u s s i aa n ds a idth a to n ec o u ldh a v e th es am eb e au t i fu lt h ing si nR u s s i aa sinP a r i s .A c c o rd in gtoh im ,th e r ew a sf r e ed omfo re v e ryo n ei n R u s s i a ,e x c ep tf o rt r a i to r s .H ew a sc onv in c edth a ta n y o n ew h ow a sa r r e s t e do rk i l l e dw a sa c tu a l lyat r a i t o r -a f t e raf ewd ay sth elo c ol e f tf o rB r a z i l . M ydoub t sab ou tth e USSR ' sa t t i tu d eh a db e e nd i s s i p a t e dw i thF r a n c e ' sd e f e a t .I ts e em e dc l e a r th a ti fR u s s i ah a den t e r edt h ew a rag a in s tth eG e rm a n s ,th eF r e n c ha n dE n g l i s hw o u ldh a v ew a t c h e d ,a s th e yh a dinf a c tw a t ch edth eG e rm an -P o l i s hw a r .I fth e USSRh a db e end e f e a t e d ,C h am b e r l a ina n d D a l a d i e rw o u ldh av em ad ep e a c ew i t hH i t l e r .Th ew a rd i s g u s t e dm e :th eE n g l i s hem p i r ea g a i n s tth e G e rm a nem p i r e .L e tth emf ig h ti tou tb e tw e enth em s e l v e s . L o n don w a sbom b ed .W eexp e c t e da nin v a s i o no fE n g l a n d .Ith o u g h tth a tt h eI t a l i a nt ro o p si n L y b i aa n din A by s s in i aw o u ldun i t es om ew h e r einS u d a na n do c c u p yS u e z .I t wo u ldb eac a t a s t ro p h eth ee n do fo u rc iv i l i z a t ion .Th eb e s tth ingtod ow a stog otoAm e r i c atoh a v eaf ew m o r ey e a r so fc iv i l i a n l i f e .W h enF a s c i smg o tth e r eIp l an n edtoh id eam o n gth eM e x i c anp e a s an t so ri nt h e Am a z o nfo r e s t s , s e a r c h i n gfo rf r e edominp r im i t iv el i f e . Iw a sy oung ,andth ew o r l dw a sl a rg e .Iw o u ldf in dac o rn e rtol iv ei n .A tt im e sIf e l tl ik eIow n e d th ew o r ld ,a l tho ug hId idno th av eacoun t ryinw h i c htos t a y( th eP o r tu g u e s ep o l i c ed idn o tw a n tm e ,a n d th ev a r io u sN ew Wo r ldco n su l a t e sd idno ts e emtow a n tm einth e i rr e s p e c t iv ec o u n t r i e s ) .Ih a dn ow o rk . Iw a sr e a c h ingth eendo fm ym on ey .S in c eIh a dn o th in g ,Ih a dn ot i e s ,a n df e l tp e r f e c t lyf r e e .Am e r i c a , A s i a ,A f r i c aw e r ef a raw ay ,andth e i rbu r e a u c r a c i e sw o u ldn o tl e tm e in .B u tIf e l tth a tIc o u ldg e ttot h e o th e rs id eo fth eo c e ansom ehow .I fl eg a lm e th o d sf a i l e d ,Iw o u ldh id einth eh u l lo fas h ip ,o rIw o u ld s t e a lab o a t .I nm yop t im i s t i cm om en t s ,m yim a g in a t io nw a sfu l lo fa d v e n tu r e . R e fu g e e sc row d edth ec a f é sa tth eA v e n id ad aL i b e rd a d ea n dd e lR o s s io .E v e ryo n el iv e di na s t a t eo fu n c e r t a in tyanda g i t a t ion .A l a rm i s tr um o r ss p r e a da n dr e p ro d u c e dl ik em i c ro b e sinac u l t u r e . E ve ry w e ekrum o r ssp r e a dth a tH i t l e rw a sa b o u tt oin v a d eS p a ina n dP o r tu g a l .G e n e r a lp a n i cw a s fo l low e db yaf ewd ay so fe x ag g e r a t edop t im i sm . 16 4 Th ePo r tug u e s ew e r ea lw a y sn i c etoth er e fu g e e s .Th o s ew h oh a db e ena b ro a da n dw h ob e l i e v e d th a tth e i rc o un t ryw a sa tth eedg eo fc iv i l i z a t io nw e r eh a p p ytob einaco sm o p o l i t a na tm o s p h e r e .Th e yd i d th e i rb e s ttoh e lpth ep e a c e f u landf r ig h t en e di n v a d e r s . M i e t t ew a sth em o s tf r ig h t en edo fa l l .H ef e l tH i t l e r ' sa rm ya th i sh e e l s ,a n dh ec o u ld n ' tw a i tt o f in ds e c u r i tyont h eo th e rs i d eo fth eA t l a n t i c .F i n a l lyh ea n dN i t ag o tv i s a sfo rB r a z i lb u tN i t ad e c id e dto s t a yinP o r tug a lw i thh e rb r o th e r ,s ay ingth a ts h eh a da no b l ig a t io ntow a rd sh e rp a r e n t sw h ow e r e ,Ith in k , inF r a n c e .M i e t t el e f ta lon e ,h e a r t b rok en .N i t as t ay e do n ,d i s t r e s s e d .B u ts h ew a sp r o b a b lyr e ad yt ob e c o n so l e d .Id idno tt rytoco n so l eh e r...a n dI 'ms o r ryId id n ' t . O nth ew ho l e ,th ed ay sinL i sbonw e r eq u i t ep l e a s an t .Iw a sin v i t e dh e r ea n dth e r e .O n eS u n d a y , inth er um b l es e a to fL ang ou s t e ,w ew en ttoC o i r a( ? )t osw ima tth eb e a c ha tE s c u r i l .A n n i ' sb o s sin v i t e d u stolu n c ha tth eb e s th o t e l ,bu tA nn iw a sn o tb e in gn i c eto m e .Th e r ew a sad i f f e r e n tk in do fr e fu g e e si n E s c u r i l .T h e yg a th e r e da rou ndth erou l e t t ew h e e l ,jo in e db ys p i e sf romth eb e l l ig e r en tn a t io ns . I nC o i r aI w en ttos e eaco r r id a .I nP o r tu g a lth ec o r r i d ai sn om o r ec ru e lt h a nag am eo f Am e r i c a nfo o tb a l l .A tth eendo fth erun ,th eb u l li sa t t r a c t e din toa na r e n ab yah e rdo fc ow s ,a n dI s u p p o s eh el iv e sth er e s to fh i sl i f eing r e enp a s tu r e s ,d e d i c a t in gh im s e l ftot h er e p ro d u c t io no fth es p e c i e s . Th eh o r s e s 'b e l l i e sa r ep ro t e c t e dbyth i ckc u sh io n s ,a ndth eb u l l ' sh o rn sa r ec o v e r e db yru b b e rt ip sw h i c h r er em o v e dinth eendw h e nth em a t ado r ,a f t e rth er i t u a lp i ro u e t t e ,m a k e sth et i r e db e a s tk n e e linf ro n to f h im .I ta l le nd sw i thth et r i um pho fag i l i tya n din t e l l i g e n c eo v e rb ru t ef o r c e .Th eP o r t u g u e s eg oh om eto s l e e pp e a c e fu l ly ,no tr ep ro a ch ingth em s e lv e sa ts p i l l ingth eb lo o do fh o r s e sa n db u l l s . A n o th e rPo r t ug u e s ev a r i a t i ono fth ec o r r id ah a df iv eo rs ixu n a rm e dm e nimmo b i l i z eth eb u l l w i thth e i rh a n d s .O n eth row sh im s e l fb e tw e e nt h eh o r n sa n do v e rth eh e a d ,s oth a tth eb u l lc an ' ts e e .Th e o th e r sh an gon toh i sl eg san dt a i l .I nth ec o r r id ath a tIs aw ,t h em a nw h os h o u ldh a v et a k e nth eb u l lb yth e h o rn sm i s s e d ,an df e l l .Th ebu l ls t epp edonh im ,a n dth ey o u n gH e r c u l e ssu rv iv e dw i thaf ewb ro k e nr ib s . Im e taf ewy oung m a th em a t i c i a n sa n dp h y s i c i s t sinL i sb o n .Th eU n iv e r s i tyo fL i sb o ni sa b o u t e q u a ltoa m ed io c r eI t a l i a nun iv e r s i ty . Af ews tu d e n t sh a db e e na b r o a d ,s u p p o r t e db yth e i rM in i s t ryo f E d u c a t io n ,w h i chs en ti t sb e s ts tud en t stot h em o r ef am o u ss ch o o l sa b ro a dr a t h e rth a nin v i t efo r e ig n s c i e n t i s t st oPo r tug a l .Ithoug h tth a tth e r ew a san u c l e u so fg o o dp e o p l ea ro u n dw h i c hag o o ds c h o o lc o u l d b eb u i l tl a t e ron . Th eep i sod eo fth ey oung m a th em a t i c i a nw h oh a dr e f u s edtos ig nap a p e rd e c l a r in gh i sa v e r s io n toC omm u n i smw a sty p i c a lo fth ePo r tug u e s ep o l i t i c a ls i t u a t io n .Th es tu d e n tc o u l dn olo n g e rr e c e iv eh i s s a l a ryd i r e c t ly ,bu tth eun iv e r s i tyfoun daw a ytog iv eh imas c h o l a r s h ip ,a sp a ym e n tfo rs e rv i c e s . * * * W h enI w a si nC o im b r aI h e a rdth a tth e Am e r i c anc o n s u l a t eh a dr e c e iv e dth el e t t e ro f r e comm e n d a t ionth a tIn e ed ed .Ihu r r i edi l l e g a l lytoL i sb o nw h e r eIw a sr e c e iv e db yth ec o n su l ,w h ow a s im p r e s s edth a ttw oN ob e lp r i z ew inn e r sw e r ew i l l in gtor e comm e n dm e .H eg a v em eth ev i s aIh a d a g o n i z e dsolo ngfo r . B u tIh adtow a i tm ytu rntocom p l e t eth en e c e s s a ryfo rm a l i t i e s .Th e yg a v em eana p p o in tm e n tfo r th efo l low ing w e eksoth a tIcou ldf i l lo u ts om ef o rm sa n dtoh a v em yv i s as t am p e din to m yp a s s p o r t . R e tu rn in gtoC o im b r a ,Iw en ttoth epo l i c es t a t io ntoa skfo ro f f i c i a lp e rm i s s io ntog otoL i sb o nw i th m y p a s s p o r t ,w h i chth eyw e r ek e ep ing .Th eyh a dm ew r i t ear e q u e s to no f f i c i a lp a p e ra n dt h i sd o c um e n tw a s s en to f ftoL i s bon .O nt h ed ayo fm yapp o in tm e n tw i t hth e Am e r i c a nc o n s u l a t e ,Ih a dn o ty e tr e c e iv e da r e p ly . I tw a ssoab s u rdth a tfo rth ef i r s tt im es in c eIh a dl e f tP a r i sIf e l td i s co u r a g e d .D i f f i c u l t i e sm a k e m eex c i t e d ,s t up id i t i e sd ep r e s sm e .Isp en ts ev e r a ld a y sinb e dw a i t in g ,u n a b l etod oa n y th in g . F i n a l ly ,Ir e c e iv edo f f i c i a lp e rm i s s i o ntog otoL i s b o nl e g a l lyfo rf iv ed a y sw i th m yp a s s p o r t .I a r r iv e da tth e Am e r i c a nc on su l a t ew i th m yf ews u i t c a s e s ,a n dI w a sto ldth a ts in c eIh a dm i s s e dm y a p p o in tm e n t ,I w ou ldh av eto w a i tag a in .Th e yg a v em ea n o th e ra p p o in tm e n tf o rth ef o l low in gw e ek , w h e nI w a ssuppo s edt ob eb a ckin C o im b r aa n dr e tu r nm yp a s s p o r ttoth ep o l i c e . Th i st im eI w a s d e sp e r a t e .Ito ldA nn im yp rob l em s ,ands h efo u n das o lu t io n .A sak in do fd ip l om a t i cr e p r e s e n t a t iv ef o r 16 5 th eJ ew s ,o n eo fd i r e c to r so ft h eH ICEMw ro t eal e t t e rtoth ep o l i c ew h oa l low e dm etos t a yinL i s b o nf o r a n o th e rw e e k . W i th m yv i s aando rd e r stor e tu rnt oC o im b r atw od a y sl a t e r ,I m a d eth ero u n d so fa l lth e s h ip p in gc om p an i e stof indaw aytog e tat i c k e tb e fo r el e a v in gL i sb o n .B u tt h e r ew a sn o t h in ga v a i l a b l e .I w e n tt oA n n i ' so f f i c etos ayg ood by e ,andtoa skth emtor e s e rv eab e r thfo rm eo nth en e x ts h i p . Iim ag in ed"m y "sh ipl e av i ngw h i l eIw a sinC o im b r aw a i t i n gfo rm yp a s s p o r t .Is a idg o o d b yto A n n i ,c o n v in c edth a tt h eb u r e au c r a cy w ou ldk e ep m einC o im b r afo r e v e r...S u d d e n lyth e r ew a sg r e a t c omm o t io ninth eo f f i c e .S ev enem a c i a t e dJ ew sh a dju s tw a lk e da c r o s sP y r e n e e s ,am o ngth ema no ldl a d y w h oc o u ldh a rd lys t and .Th eyh ad Am e r i c anv i s a st h a tw o u l de x p i r eina w e e k .I fth e yd idn o tl e av e imm e d i a t e lyonash ipt h a tw a sa l r e a dyinp o r t ,th e yw o u ldh a v etog iv eu pa l lh o p eo fg o in gtoAm e r i c a . Th e r ep a in fu ls c en e s ,t e l ep hon ec a l l s ,o l dl a d i e sc ry in g ,m o r et e l e p h o n ec a l l s .F i n a l lyth ep o l i c e s a idth a tas h ipw a sinpo r tw i the ig h tun a s s ig n e db e r t h s .Th e r ew e r es ev e nr e f u g e e s-Iw a sth ee ig h th , w i thab r a n dn ewv i s a .Il e f tonth eN eaH e l la s. Iw a ssu rp r i s edth a tm yc a b inh adtw ob e r th sfo rju s tm e .In e v e ru n d e r s to o dw h yth eP o r tu g u e s e p o l i c e ,w hocom p l a in edab ou tt h ep r e s en c eo fr e f u g e e s ,w o u lda l lowas h iptol e a v ew i tha nem p tyb e r th . Th eo n lye x p l an a t io nth a tm ak e ss en s ei sth a tP o r tu g a lw a sm a k in gg o o dm o n e yo f fth er e fu g e e s ,an dw a s n o tr e a l lyinahu r rytol e tt h emg o . I na nyc a s e ,Il e f t .A nem p loy e ef romth eH ICEMh i r e dat a x i ,a n dto o ku stoat r a v e la g e n t ,toth e p o l i c e ,a n dto m anyo th e rp l a c e s .Th em o n e yth a tIh adp a idinB o r d e au xfo raf i r s tc l a s st i c k e t ,w a sn ow o n lye n o u g htop ayfo rh a l fat h i rdc l a s st i c k e t .H ICEMp a idth eo th e rh a l f .Il e f tfo rAm e r i c aw i tha b o u t $ 8 0d o l l a r sinm ypo ck e t ,andaf ewhund r e dd o l l a r sd e b t .A n n ia n dM a rq u e zd aS i lv ac am etos e em eo f f . T e nd ay sl a t e rIl and edi nN ewY o rk .T h i si sth ee n do fm ys to ry .Am e r i c ai sh e r e ,a tm yf e e t ,a n d Ic an n o td e s c r ib ei tob j e c t i v e ly .B e s id e s ,b e in gi nth eU n i t e dS t a t e s ,Iams ol i t t l ec o n n e c t e dto w o r l d e v e n t st h a ti tw ou ldb eo fn oin t e r e s ttoth er e a d e r ,o re v e nto m e .Ih a v ed e s c r ib e dw h a th a p p en e dt om e inE u ro p e ,no tb e c au s eIthoug h ti tw a se x t r a o rd i n a ry .I tw a saty p i c a ls to ry ,th a to fa na v e r a g ep e r s o nc e r t a i n lyn o tah e ro-inaw o r ldinc r i s i s .I t ' sth es to r yo fth ew o r lds i tu a t io n ,n o tm ys to ry ,th a tIw a n t e d tot e l l . 16 6