MW Trip to Madeira - the Institute of Masters of Wine

MW Trip to Madeira
27th-29th March 2014
Trip Report
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Contents
Pereira de Oliveira by Arne Ronold MW
p3
Lunch in Zona Velha by Rod Smith MW
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Barbeito by Sarah Jane Evans MW
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HMBorges by Sheri Morano MW
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Welcome dinner at IVBAM by Mark de Vere MW
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Henriques e Henriques by Charles Curtis MW
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Lunch H& H by Justin Howard-Sneyd MW
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Justino’s by Anthony Barne MW
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Dinner at Montanha (traditional espetada) by Neil Tully MW
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MWC/Blandy’s by DC Flynt MW
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Visit to the Vineyards by Stephen Skelton MW
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Dinner at Choupana Hills by Jean- Michel Valette MW
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Master of Wine biographies
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27th March
Pereira de Oliveira - Arne Ronold MW
The first visit on our trip – on Thursday morning – went to Pereira d’Oliveira, with headquarters in a
beautiful building dating back to 1619 in a central part of Funchal. The company was founded in 1850
by João Pereira d’Oliveira and has over the years acquired 6 other Madeira producers, all previously
run by island families, most recently Adegas do Torreão in 2002 and Artur de Barros e Sousa in 2013.
Today Pereira d’Oliveira is run by the fifth generation Pereira, Aníbal and Luís, together with Aníbal’s
son Filipe, who joined the company as winemaker in 1987. The winery is now located in a building
next to the Madeira Wine Company in central Funchal, previously owned by Adegas do Torreão.
Pereira d’Oliveira did not export much wine until the 1980s, and – as a result – they have
accumulated a considerable stock of rare old wines, built up over the years from the company’s own
wines and those of the companies it has purchased. On our visit the oldest wine available for sale was
a Verdelho 1850!
Grapes are purchased from around 100 small growers each year, and the present production is about
150 000 litres per year. This includes a range of 3, 5, 10 and 15 years old wines made from Tinta Negra
Mole and 15 years old and older wines made from Sercial, Verdelho, Boal, Malvasia and Terrantez,
although Terrantez has been scarce since 1995. Older vintages also include some Bastardo. Wines up
to 10 years old are made by the Estufagem method, whereas wines of 15 years old and older are made
by the Canteiro process.
Our group was greeted by Luís d’Oliveira, who is in charge of sales and marketing, and we were seated
to a magnificent and rare tasting of 19 wines dating back to 1875. The first group of dry wines (Seco)
included an elegant Sercial 1989 and a Sercial 1928 with real grip. Then a medium dry (Meio Seco)
flight followed, with my favourites being the elegant Terrantez 1971, the liquorice flavoured Bastardo
1927 and the very concentrated Verdelho 1905. Here Luís d’Oliveira made a comment about their
Terrantez always being made in a medium dry style, similar to Verdelho.
The third flight of medium sweet (Meio Doce) wines comprised a 15 Year Old wine and 4 Boals, with
the enormously concentrated Boal 1908 being my pick, even if Boal 1958 and Boal 1922 were not far
behind in quality. And then a final round with sweet wines followed, with Malvazia 1907 standing out,
even if it also was a privilege to taste the Malvazia 1875!
Old Vintage Madeira is one of my favourite wines, and to be able to taste such a brilliant range at the
premises of Perreira d’Oliveira was a real treat. Thank you!
Lunch in Zona Velha at Restaurant Do Forte - Rod Smith MW
This lovely restaurant is situated in part of the old fort of Funchal, and we all walked there after our first and
extraordinary tasting at Pereira d'Oliveira.
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We were made very welcome by Paula Cabaço, the Director of the Institute of Embroidery and Wine (Cultural
Institute of Madeira), who – with her colleagues – was to be out host and guide throughout the trip. The
Institute was founded in 1977, took over from existing Junta. Also responsible for Rum from local cane sugar.
Paula also introduced us to some table wines from the island, a first I think for most of us. The pair at lunch
today were from Barbusano (White: Verdelho, Red: Aragonez, Touriga Nacional, Merlot)
Light wine programme has been developed relatively recently, in addition to the local Madeira varieties and
some from the mainland, Arnsberger also planted (a Riesling x Riesling cross). Of Madeira’s total 500ha of
vineyard, some 5% is now used for light wine (200 tonnes)
Barbusano Verdelho 2012
Mid pale lemon colour. Citrussy-fresh aroma with plenty of fruit and floral hints. Quite vibrant and inviting.
Good acidity. Fresh. Rather well made. **
Barbusano Aragonez, Touriga Nacional, Merlot 2010
Inky purple colour, deeply violet aromatics. Clean, fresh inviting aroma. Spicy,
some jamminess, rich. Reasonably well balanced. **.5
After some appetisers of bacalao and other delicious bits (pretty much all of which
were consumed with the kind of zesty appetite that only consuming a lot of Madeira
for several hours can engender.)
Peito de frango Marinado em manteiga de alho e ervas, legumes
salteados e arroz de tomate
(Chicken Breast with butter and garlic sauce, sautéed vegetables and tomato rice.)
Or
Paupiette de Espada com molho meunier
(Scabbard Paupiette with Meunier Sauce)
I think most people went for the fish, because it is local and a speciality. Scabbard fish, a little like seabass to
taste I found. Delicious.
To follow
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Carpaccio de Ananáa com gelado de coco
(Pineapple Carpaccio with Coconut Ice Cream)
A solid Piña Colada! Great! Super refreshing and just what was required.
A delightful meal which set the scene for the rest of the trip, and an afternoon at Barbeito marvellously. Muito
obrigado!
Barbeito- Sarah Jane Evans MW
Host: Ricardo Vasconcelos Freitas, MD since 1990, grandson of the founder. An excellent host, full of
information and charm.
The winery and main offices are up a vertiginous slope, at 670m. Contrary to the image of Madeira
wines being baked in the sun, Ricardo Freitas looks for cold temperatures. ‘In September it can go
down to -5C; I like to work with nature, I don’t control the temperature of fermentation except by the
weather.’
Freitas joined the business in 1989. In 1991 it became a joint venture with Kinoshita, the
importer/distributor of Wines & spirits in Japan. He now has 3 ageing warehouses, in different parts
of the island for different climatic influences. He buys grapes from around 135 farmers.
He has a mechanical lagar, the only one on the island, he says. He has only used it since 2007 so
cannot yet tell the long-term significance in terms of quality. Freitas says he likes to experiment, and ‘I
am always looking to reintroduce old techniques, though working in small quantities. If I make a
mistake with 1000 litres then I can always blend it in to a 3 y/o’. He is a strong defender of the 3 y/o: ‘I
know people only use it for cooking. My goal is to get them to drink it.’
His carefully designed warehouse shows his attention to natural influences. The ceiling is zinc which
heats up in the sun. The tall windows are narrow, to slow cooling, retaining acidity and slowing
development of sugars. The temperature difference across the 4 stacked rows of barrels is 5 degC. So
over time wines are moved from upper to lower and corner to middle. ‘I try to guide my wines and not
interfere.’
He doesn’t top the barrels: ‘topping changes the wine’. Freitas is looking for acidity. He says he
dislikes overly sweet wines: ‘My Malvasias are the driest of all’.
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As the wines age they will eventually be moved to smaller 300 or 100l casks. And finally demijohns, ‘a
very important tool for our work. My mother has an underground treasure of old wines in demijohns.’
Talking of rare treasures, Freitas has 300l of Bastardo. It comes from one vineyard and he has been
making it since 2007. He hasn’t bottled any yet, but could come in the future.
Rare Wine Co (USA) Baltimore Rainwater Special Reserve
61.3g/l RS 18%ABV
Rainwater is a name of Madeira wine romance. Undoubtedly the wines used to arrive in the USA pale
in colour and not strongly oxidised. The name rainwater referred to this colour. Part of a project for
the Rare Wine CO.
Aromas of almonds, white flowers, smoky leather.
Brilliantly vibrant in the mouth, light bodied, but with a bold linear freshness surrounded by notes of
marmalade and cocoa.
Sercial Reserva Velha 10 yr old
54.5g/l RS 19%ABV
A blend of 50% Sercial vinified dry, and 50% Medium Dry.
Gloriously buttery caramel nose. Palate shows nervy acidity, following through to a spicy, peppery
character with bitter orange, dried herbs, coriander.
Rare Wine Co (USA) Thomas Jefferson Medium Dry
74.5g/l RS 19%ABV
Blend of Verdelho, Bual, Malvasia and Tinta Negra. Includes 60 y/o TNM, ‘drops’ of 80y/o Malvasia.
In honour of a great drinker of Madeira.
Smoky, nutty , rich caramel aromas. Dry, with bright lime acidity, coated with a silky richness.
Savoury, almost salty aspect, finish of roasted coffee.
Verdelho 1992 Frasqueira
73.6 g/l RS 19% ABV
1992 was Freitas’ first vintage. ‘My first job was weighing the grapes – and that way I started to get to
know the growers.‘
Floral, spiced caramelised kumquats on the nose. In the mouth tense, tight acidity, with notes of dark
cacao.
Bual Frasqueira 1992
92.1g/l (‘the limit for Medium sweet’) RS 19%ABV
‘We don’t make them like this now’
Roasted, reduced aromas. Palate shows brisk acidity, with roasted butterscotch, finishing with notes
of bitter caramel. A very much more powerful wine, with notes of dark muscovado sugar. Very
persistent finish.
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Malvasia 20 y/o Lot 14050
98.6g/l RS 20% ABV
The most recent blend of 20 y/o.
Butterscotch and fine herbs on the nose. Brilliant acidity in the mouth (8.04 TA), golden peach fruit,
vivid piquant freshness, rich, warm finish.
Mãe Manuela Malvasia 40y/o
99.6g/l RS 20%ABV
Made in honour of Freitas’ mother Manuela Vasconcelos, who started working with her father in the
business in the 1970s. A blend including some private collection wines.
Copper coloured with red highlights.
Fine herb and caramel aromas. Initially a vivid racy acidity, then a creamy, nutty caramel richness
develops, as of rice pudding and nutmeg. Then burnished red plums with a long clean, brisk finish.
Malvasia 1875 Frasqueira
180g/l RS
Freitas’ grandfather originally bought full casks, which form the basis of the library collection. The
oldest wine in the collection is 1850 Verdelho.
Pungent aromas of tar, iodine.
Equally pungent palate: tongue-tingling, tight, with a firm grip, a powerful intense style. Brilliantly
fresh for one so old.
HM Borges- Sheri Morano MW
The group enjoyed a fascinating visit to H.M. Borges, which was originally established in 1877. Today,
the winery is currently being run by the 4th generation of the family. The current owners, along with 2
of their employees, spoke a bit about the history of the island and the winery and gave the group a
short tour through the facility. There were numerous highlights, including seeing a fantastic thank
you note the winery received from Winston Churchill.
One of the best parts of the group’s visit to Borges was all of the historical information that was
discussed. We learned about Madeira’s history of sugar cane production, which was believed to have
been introduced from Sicily. In the 15th century, Madeira was the largest producer of sugar cane!
Many believe that part of the reason the practice of fortifying the wines came about stemmed from the
tradition of visiting sailors who liked to add sugar cane spirit to their wines to “make them more
drinkable.” The Borges also spoke of how Madeira was initially part of the dowry of Catherine of
Braganza, who was married to Charles II of England. However, according to our hosts, Catherine’s
fondness for tea lead to the popularization of that beverage in England and eventually to Charles’
swapping Madeira for access to India. There were many in our group who were rather dismayed to
realize that had it not been for Charles II, afternoon tea would have actually featured a glass of
Madeira instead of a cup of Earl Grey.
After our tour, we tasted through several wines.
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3 yr old dry style Tinta Negra – light color with a moderate intensity and a spirity character on the
finish. More of a restrained style.
10 yr old Sercial – Fairly pale color with notes of spiced oranges, nuts and herbs. Racy acidity on the
finish with a delicate character.
20 yr old med dry Verdelho – Notes of salted nuts, orange marmalade and a smoky, tea leaf character
dominate the nose. Racy acidity with a savory flavor on the fairly concentrated finish.
15 yr old Bual – A touch of an earthy character on the noes with hints of marzipan, coffee, spice and
orange marmalade. More sweetness, but with a butterscotch and lime character that leads to the
impression of a lighter finish than the previous wine.
15 yr old Malmsey – Still a bit tight on the nose with notes of roasted caramelized peaches, crème
brulee and grilled pineapple. A mixture of sweet and savory with vibrant acidity on the finish.
Sweeter, but with freshness and a tangy character on the finish that lingers.
40 year old Malmsey – a special bottling done in 2008 for the 500th anniversary of Funchal. Smokey
and concentrated with a spirity note on the nose and hints of burnt sugar, coffee, fruit cake and spice.
Very intense and concentrated with a rich and viscous finish. A lovely way to end the tasting!
Welcome dinner at IVBAM- Mark de Vere MW
An excellent and diverse opening day was brought to a gracious close with a wonderful dinner at the
Instituto do Vinho do Bordado e do Artesanato da Madeira, (IVBAM), the Institute for the wine,
embroidery and handicrafts of Madeira. While handicrafts and embroidery were proudly on display
inside, as we walked down the red carpet towards the entrance, a large red banner draped on the wall
of the historic building reassured us that we were here for the Vinho Madeira.
We were greeted with a glass of D’Oliveira’s medium dry 5 year old, that accompanied the delicious
passed hors d’oeuvres; a charming a delicious aperitif, that set the mood for the evening, and
reminded us to drink more Madeira before dinner. The reception gave us the chance to mingle and
meet representatives from each of the shippers, and from IVBAM, who had kindly come to help
facilitate our learning this evening. We were very grateful to be joined by Humberto Jardim, Rita
Galvão, Chris Blandy, Dina Luis, Isabel Figueiroa, Juan Teixeira, Noélia Palma, Isabel Borges, Helena
Borges, Luis Faria and Paulo Mendes. Also, a special mention and thanks might be made to Rubina
Vieira from IVBAM, who had kindly prepared the overview and introduction to Madeira that was
intended to start our trip, as appeared on the original itinerary; although time constraints had
unfortunately squeezed her lecture off the agenda, those of us seated at her table learnt invaluable
details; we are appreciative of the time she spent preparing for us.
The curiosity of a few MWs might have led them to look around a corner and see an interesting ‘trial’;
a cask of 2000 Malvasia that had been sailed around the world, next to a ‘control’ cask that had
remained in the IVBAM cellar. We did not get to taste from either of the two small casks, both
protected with the institute’s seal, however it was fun to see the visible difference between the casks:
the unmoved cask looked normal, whereas the cask that made the viagem de circum-navegação in
2010 had the faded grey patina of an ocean-going mariner.
Five large round tables of seven, each named after one of the island’s major grape varieties, were set
in front of large concrete vats, atop of which sat a row of canteiro-style casks. Our hostess Paula
Cabaço, Presidente do Conselho Diretivo, warmly welcomed us to dinner on behalf of the Institute and
its members; we were graciously thanked for coming to learn more about the wines of this island.
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We were honoured with two Entradas, starters. First came a beautiful plate with three goat cheese
puff pastries, topped with walnuts and sitting on a drizzled balsamic vinaigrette with raspberries and
blueberries, on top of which were strewn a very light salad of green herbs and a pink fuchsia flower;
finely sliced ham was curled in the corner of the presentation [for the linguists: Mil-folhas de presunto
com queijo de Cabra e Salada com Balsâmico de Framboesas]. The second starter was a puréed cream
soup of yellow pumpkin with a swirl of local cane sugar syrup coiled in its centre [Crème de Abóbora
Amarela com Mel de Cana].
With these starters we were introduced to the first of two rare treats of the evening, wines made by the
Institute from their own experimental vines and vinified for research purposes. While these wines
were of exceptional quality, they are never made available commercially, due to a feeling that this
would be an act of competition with the wineries on the island. We were fortunate enough to be the
recipients of their educational and promotional use.
The first wine was a very fine Terrantez 20 Anos, a ‘twenty year’ old Terrantez, bottled in January
2008: the front label had the traditional stenciled details from I.V.B.A.M. and the back had a useful
paper back label, reminding us that the wine can form a deposit, and that we should ‘serve with
special care to avoid turbidity’. This wine had been perfectly decanted earlier in the day. With a
medium pale browning hue, a very delicate but intense nose and an elegant and long palate, it was a
delightful Terrantez. Its 85 g/Ltr of residual sugar and 32 g/Ltr of dry extract were a beautiful balance
to its searing 9.2 g/ltr T.A. and adequately concealed the 1.2 g/Ltr of V.A.
For the main course we were treated to local line-caught tuna mignons on crushed sweet potatoes
[Mignon de atum em esmagada de batata doce]. With this we were reminded that IVBAM go beyond
Madeira, and also represent the table wines of the island. First we enjoyed a fresh and textured white
DOP Madeirense, the Terras do Avô Grande Escholha Branco 2012, largely from the Seixal region on
the north coast. This, we subsequently learned, was one of the dry white wines made from Verdelho
that now compete with the noble fortified wines for the prized white grapes of Madeira. Second we
had a red DOP Madeirense, the Primeira Paixão 2012. This was labeled Merlot, but also contains
between 5% and 10% Touriga Nacional, and is made by one of the three producers in the Caniçal
district, a very dry area of reclaimed land in the far south east tip of the island.
To finish we had passion fruit crème brulée with a chocolate biscuit and pistachio sauce [Crème
Brulée de maracujá com biscuit de chocolat e molho de pistachio].
The real star of the dessert course, however, was the wine. This was a Boal from the great 1954
vintage, also from the Institute’s cellars, bottled in the late 1980s, in the days when it was simply IVM.
This wine had been decanted the day before, and was shining; powerful yet balanced, and with a lovely
nutty citrusy extraction, and a very long compelling finish. (A note for anyone who kept the menu and
only saw the decanter during service, the menu erroneously suggested this was a 1922 Bual, the bottles
were all clearly stenciled Boal 1954.)
IVBAM’s generous hospitality was a wonderful way to close our first day of the trip, and the
conversation of our hosts greatly expanded our understanding of the wines from the island of
Madeira.
28th March
Henriques e Henriques- Charles Curtis MW
Warmly welcomed by Humberto Jardim, the Managing Director and CEO of Henriques & Henriques,
the assembled group enjoyed both an instructive discussion of the operation of the present-day
market for madeira as well as a delightful tasting. We were treated to a comprehensive visit to the
facilities at the new premises at Câmara de Lobos. This includes a temperature-controlled reception
area that profits from gravity feed after the destemming operation and a total of 200,000 litres
capacity, with enough tank space to vinify 100,000 litres per day. Estufa for the entry-level winesis
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done in jacketed stainless steel tanks with remontage to equalize the temperature. One of the
problems of old-fashioned heating coils inside the tanks was that in order to heat the wine to 45° the
temperature inside the coils had to be at 80°. This would lead to excessive caramelisation of the sugars
in the vicinity of the coils leading to bitter notes, while the use of jacketed tanks allows one to avoid
this.
One of the intriguing aspects of our visit was a fascinating look at the Henriques and Henriques barrel
seasoning program. One of the Henriques and Henriques sidelines is importing Kentucky ex-bourbon
casks to prepare them for Scotch production. Here barrels are seasoned with wine made from the
Tinta Negra Mole (TNM) grape to be sold on to distilleries such as Jameson, Glenfiddich and
Bushmills. Once the barrels have been seasoned, the wine is sold in bulk as a food ingredient with salt
and pepper added. The export of Madeira wine in bulk is now forbidden by the regulations of the
island since bulk wine exports were competing with sales of the 3 year old madeira for market share.
The difficult nature of the madeira market was crystallised in the comment of Sr. Jardim that “Selling
Madeira is like bringing sand uphill with a fork.” Our tasting included the following wines:
3-year-old “Monte Seco” Extra Seco
We began our tasting with the Monte Seco aperitif madeira, made in a vermouth-like style and vinified
dry (25 g/l RS). The wine is produced from first press TNM juice aged three years. It was first
produced in 1937. Minerally and crisp, the wine is done in a special style seldom found elsewhere.
3-year-old “Full Rich” Doce
We continued with the three year old Full Rich, with 112 g/l RS, the wine that generates the profit for
the firm. It is an all-purpose madeira, relatively neutral on the nose with hints of roast nuts and sweet
caramel. In fact, the wine is colored with caramel as many are in response to demands of certain
markets and buyers who are creating their own brand, according to Sr. Jardim.
Next we were able to taste a couple of blending components. The first was a sample of TNM just
fortified. It had been fermented almost dry and fortified to 19° and was waiting to go into estufa . The
wine was ruby red in color, and showed a berry fruit that had not yet developed the characteristic
madeira tanginess. At present it showed its alcohol fairly prominently as one would expect. The total
acidity was 6.2 g/l. The second was the “sordo”, a vin muté, which had been fermented to 5° and then
stopped by the addition of one quarter volume of alcohol. Light pink in color, the resulting wine had
129 g/l RS.
1998 Colheiita
Produced from TNM, the resulting wine is 92 - 93 g/l RS. It shows a nutty caramel aroma on the nose
and a character on the palate that is at once sweet and crisp. As with all Colheita wine, it is aged in
cantiero for a minimum of 5 years for, although 8 – 10 is more usual.
1997 Colheita
Similar to above except for vintage, the 1997 Colheita was aged in sherry cask. On the nose it shows a
bit more molasses and an edge of toastiness. On the palate the wine is pleasantly rich, and although
the overall character is somewhat neutral, the wine is well balanced and elegant.
1995 Colheita
The 1995 vintage Colheita is produced in the same fashion, although the vintage year this time
provided a wine with a distinct tropical character that was fatter and suppler on the palate with an
almost chewy texture.
15-year-old Sercial
The 15-year-old Sercial shows a balanced acidity and a pleasantly silky texture on the palate – not as
vibrantly racy as some examples, the lighter body makes the wine fairly elegant. A typical bottling is
approximately 9 g/l acidity and 55 g/l RS.
1971 Sercial
The ’71 Sercial shows a nose of roast hazelnut and lemon peel along with a leafy herbal notes and a
suggestion of ginger. On the palate there is a slight bitter note originating with fact that the stems are
pressed with the fruit during fermentation.
15-year-old Verdelho
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The 15-year-old Verdelho began with a rather neutral nose that opened up to show a hint of orange
peel and hazelnut. On the palate there was balanced sweetness, a similar suggestion of bitterness and
moderate length.
20-year-old Verdelho
The 20-year-old Verdelho showed a bit more aromatic character on the nose, with dried apricot fruit
and hints of smoke, caramel and sweet rich toffee. On the palate the wine was very fresh with good
length.
1898 Verdelho Solera
An 1898 Solera Verdelho showed a fairly light color and an aroma that combined roast walnut,
sawdust and orange peel along with a hint of volatility. On the palate, balanced acidity and sweetness
and a lingering finish
2000 Boal
A 2000 vintage Boal showed notes of molasses and brown sugar on the nose. On the palate the wine
was rich and yet still retained remarkable balance. 92 g/l RS
15-year-old Boal
A 15-year-old Boal showed figs caramel toffee and smoke on the nose and on the palate a sense of
minerality and firmness, with a deft sugar balance.
1957 Boal
A 1957 Boal showed rich notes of toffee, caramel, coffee and nuts on the nose. On the palate the wine
showed a firm quality with a hint of bitterness and an almost metallic finish.
15-years-old Malmsey
The nose of the 15-year-old Malmsey showed aromas of raisins, figs and prunes – almost recalling
Pedro Ximénez – along with a hint of tar and an almost saline note. The wine has 115 g/l of RS and 6
g/l of acidity.
20-year-old Malmsey
A 20-year-old Malmsey shows the classic green ring at the edge of the glass and a darker fruit
character on the nose with more of the tangy oxidative notes. On the palate the wine is sweet and
luscious yet still balanced.
1954 Malmsey
As we taste the 1954 Malmsey we are reminded of the local saying about the Malvazia grape: “Don’t
eat them, don’t give them away, for wine God made them.” The wine is beginning to show a bit of
rancio character, with earthy notes, exotic spices, molasses and brown sugar, backed up with a tangy
fresh acidity that helps the wine retain balance; on the palate the wine is elegant yet so thick it is
almost viscous. Delicious wine.
20-year-old Terrantez
A blend of 5 vintages aged 20 years, the wine shows an exotic nose with notes of lemon and orange
peel, a slightly herbal note, and anise-like spices. On the palate the wine is crisp in spite of more than
74 g/l sugar and the lingering finish is very pleasant.
1954 Terrantez
A ’54 Terrantez was powerfully aromatic with notes of sweet caramel and exotic Asian spices on the
nose. On the palate the wine was tangy and concentrated, with an elegant balance and a marvelous
finish.
1900 Terrantez Solera
A 1900 Terrantez solera was a bit muted on the nose and showed its maturity, with a waxy, almost
dusty note, and a bouquet of dried fruit, dried flowers and truffles. On the palate the wine was supple
and gracious, with no hard edges and no hint of excess: balance and elegance were the watchwords of
this style through the subtle finish.
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Lunch H& H- Justin Howard-Sneyd MW
After an excellent tasting of H&H wines, we spilled out into the mist-shrouded hills surrounding the
winery, where a gentle drizzle has set in, and not wishing to linger long, we were ushered in to a small
outbuilding where a table had been laid for lunch.
The H&H team had been busy preparing a home-made feast for us, and wafts of stuffed cabbage,
garden vegetables, and a hearty Portuguese stew full of pork and bread sausage billowed up from the
dishes laid out on the side.
No Madeira for lunch here – after such an excellent tasting we didn’t really need any, but a Douro red
and white called Dalva dutifully washed down the grub.
An hour, and a couple of home-made fruit pies or so later, we trickled out of the door to find that it
had stopped raining, and sunshine looked on the cards for the afternoon.
Justino’s - Anthony Barne MW
If lunch in the vintage kitchen of Henriques & Henriques, set high up in a cleft in the mountains, was a
taste of the old Madeira, then the industrial-style installation that has housed Justino’s since 1994,
and has allowed them to double their production, is a taste of the present. Justino’s, taking in grapes
from over 800 growers, accounts for 40% by volume of the market and is probably the only producer
large enough to justify a site on this scale. Owned, like Henriques & Henriques, by the rum company
La Martinquaise, they have the investment to allow them an impressive wall of Seguin Moreau
hogsheads maintained by their own coopers. Even this array of barrels, purchased second-hand from
Cognac houses, only represents a small part of the maturation capacity, the remainder being in
stainless steel and in wood ranging from 650-10,000 litres. This allows for 1.7 million hectolitres in
wood and 5.7 million in tank.
Madeiras in wood are aged in canteiros, the overground cellars designed to be heated by the sun.
These generally rely on natural heat penetrating the roof but Justino’s have a system of solar panels
which, together with insulation, allow for a more constant temperature, the target being 27-28
degrees. This gives a more even ageing process and a better retention of acidity. Although the
production of cheaper wines is, currently, a very large part of Justino’s business, they place great
importance on the canteiro process as it is through this that they will be able to trade up and market
wines of higher value, just as the port producers have successfully done.
In support of an established trend which has seen the proportion of the basic 3 Year Old Wine in their
exports to the United States reduce from 80% to 70% over the last 3 years, they lay claim to the largest
canteiro stocks of any Madeira producer. The emphasis on this stock is being changed from a holding
of old Fresqueiras (vintages) to a more commercial rotation of younger wines to sell in the 5-10 Year
12
Old and Colheita (wines of indicated vintage year) categories. The intention is that 15-20% of the
wines that they are exporting in 10 years time will have been aged in wood.
Júlio Fernandes the Commercial Director, then talked more about the direction of the market for
these higher grade wines, with Europe, Brazil and Japan being targeted. He pointed out that the total
production of Madeira amounts to 4 million litres per year, compared with 120 million litres of port,
so a different marketing strategy is required, focussing on individual contacts. At present France is
the main market, taking the younger wines, but there has been a significant decline in bulk shipments
since 2001 and less is now destined for sauces. Even so, a shift to 10 Year Old is not seen as a prospect
for the near future. The French market is relatively stable, unlike Russia and Scandanavia which are
growing fast. The Ukraine also got a mention as an area of fast developing sales, maybe that market is
now experiencing a certain amount of disruption.
It was at this point in the talk, as a we were tasting our wines and listening attentively to Júlio, and to
Dina Luis, the recently appointed wine-maker, that the visit moved from being interesting to being
unforgettable
The Institute places a professional obligation on its members to eat and drink in style, perhaps even
copiously, in order to set a good example to others. The very generous hospitality extended to us in
Madeira found us at the top of our form and the plastic chairs hired especially to seat us all were
simply not prepared for the onslaught. In one way it was fortunate that 23 of us were shoe-horned
into an office designed to house 6 people because the wedging effect helped to cushion the landings.
But the domino effect, so much dreaded by Senator Mac Carthy in South East Asia, also took its toll.
I believe it was Dr Johnson who wrote that an impending execution ’concentrates the mind
wonderfully’ and we sat, still as mice, our minds focussed like lasers. The tasting notes from this visit
are probably the most accurate of the trip, although once the ominous crack came from below, it was
hard not to think about whether you could afford to swirl the wine in the fashion honed to perfection
over many years of study for the Tasting Paper. Our newest MW, Demetri Walters, clearly lacked the
experience to swirl without moving any other part of his anatomy and quickly disappeared from view,
joining Charles Curtis and Joel Butler on the parquet. Those who stood for the remainder of the
tasting, and I seem to recall that this included our Chairman, get no marks at all from me although for
those whose chairs collapsed and they sat down on a replacement it was, in Groucho Marx’s words, ‘
the triumph of hope over experience’.
Júlio, our most charming host, displayed a degree of stoicism which would have done credit to the
Iron Duke and was not deflected for a moment from what he wanted to say. Happily everyone was
still able to file out unaided at the end of the visit and to be presented with a bottle of 1974 Colheita
Tinta Negra Mole, especially interesting on this side of the Atlantic as it is almost impossible to find a
Colheita from this variety.
Wines tasted were:
Justino Fine Dry 3 Year Old
Mid straw colour with slightly spirity nose. The concentration to be expected of a 3 year and quite
sweet for a wine labelled as ‘dry’ but soft and supple with moderate acidity.
Broadbent Rainwater 3 Year Old
Pale amber colour with some vestige of the Cognac cask on the nose. As the name suggests this is quite
a light, delicate wine, clean and with a gentle finish.
Broadbent Fine Rich 5 Year Old Reserve
13
Mahogany colour with green edge. A nose of suede leather. Palate medium sweet with toffee and fruit
cake. Balsamic notes on the finish with firm acidity and a hint of vanillin.
Broadbent Sercial 10 Year Old
Mid amber colour with a spicy nose and some kerosene. Some concentration here, but spirit too and a
little toffee sweetness. Finish distinctly fruity.
Broadbent Verdelho 10 Year Old
Tawny colour with a waxy nose and a hint of the Cognac casks. Mouth-filling flavour with cutting
acidity balanced by sweetness.
Broadbent Boal 10 Year Old
Mahogany colour with green edge. Slightly unforthcoming on the nose but an expansive palate with
plum pudding flavours and a long, soft finish.
Broadbent Malmsey 10 Year Old
Medium full colour with green edge. Quite a bit of wood apparent on the nose but a soft and mouthfilling palate with background acidity and good length. Something of an aged Tawny port about this.
Justino Fine Rich Colheita 1995
Deep colour with green edge. A minty nose with herbal notes. Sweet and succulent on the palate, full
bodied and with fresh acidity Good length and nice complexity on the finish.
Justino Terrantez 1978
Mahogany colour with green edge Quite a dusty nose. Flavour still quite unresolved but with firm
acidity and good concentration. Length too, with a little barley sugar on the finish.
Justino Verdelho 1954
Mahogany colour with green edge. A nutty nose reminiscent of Amontillado sherry. Long, rich palate
freshened by a touch of spirit and a tangy acidity. Good length.
Justino Boal 1964
Full colour with green edge. Nose and palate of toffee and candied fruits. Very sweet and intense with
a firm balancing acidity and a long, plum pudding finish.
Justino Malmsey 1933
Deep colour with green edge. The nose is luscious with lots of complexity and the palate has
concentration matched to a fine acidity with flavours of walnuts and umami. Justin Howard-Sneyd
mentioned roast beef pan scrapings while I found chocolatey flavours on the long finish. A flourish
with which to finish an eventful tasting.
14
Restaurante Churrascaria at the Montanha – the Espetada - Neil Tully MW
The Ocean Gardens Hotel is situated high up on the eastern side of the bay of Funchal, with some
spectacular views of the bay itself. Clearly popular with locals, an animated scene of Madeiran folk
singers and dancers greeted us, many sporting characteristic pointed hats (barrete de lã), with the fullthroated performance continuing for much of the evening.
For those not familiar, the espetada, which is a speciality of this restaurant involves pieces of seasoned
beef barbecued on a skewer the length of a sword. These are hung vertically in front of each diner,
forming a dramatic carnivorous guard of honour the length of the table.
The refreshingly dry white wine was Terras do Avô D.O.P. Madeirense, Verdelho, and for the meat:
Terras do Avô D.O.P. Madeirense, Tinta Roriz, Syrah e Touriga Nacional and Quinta Seara d'Ordens,
Talentus, Douro DOC.
29th March
MWC/Blandy’s- DC Flynt MW
Saturday morning in Funchal and a mild breeze, driven by the Canary current, was at our back . We
casually paced three minutes upwards from the Avenida Do Mar past the 16 th Century Fortress
Palácio São Lourenço, and after a final glance back at the Cathedral Albergaria, over our right
shoulder, a score of MW’s stepped under that symbolic black awning and slipped through the portal at
28 Avenida Arriaga into the Blandy’s Wine Lodge courtyards. This is a site that remains fixed in time,
little different than when Charles Ridpath Blandy purchased the quarters in 1840. No degree of
anticipation could prepare us for what would simply prove to be one of the finest Madeira tastings
ever, and this was not just because of the impeccable quality of the wines present, but the meaningful
way in which the Blandy’s team organized the wines.
Today, just three years past their significant 2011 bicentennial celebration, the future of the Madeira
Wine Company (MWC) and their flagship brand, Blandy’s, is clearly in very capable hands. The 6 th
and 7th generation family members of Michael and Chris Blandy drive the business, along with a
significant supporting cast captained by a true ‘triple threat’, three time IWC “Fortified Wine Maker of
the Year”, Francisco Albuquerque.
Chris Blandy directed the tour adding a personalized view into the Blandy’s family banking and hotel
enterprises, but most importantly he provided a careful and thoughtful insight into his vision of
Madeira. “What I do today will have little immediate impact on our business. Our success today is a
result of the last generation, and the success they enjoyed was the work of the generation that
preceded them. I have to constantly keep in mind that my efforts good or bad will be realized 40 or 50
15
years from now by the children of our generation.” It was the verbal confirmation of our ‘Madeira
education’ missed calculations cannot be corrected in 3 or 4 years. Here it could likely take 50 years
to right the ship once a mistake is made.
The ancient wooden stairs lead to loft rooms throughout the lodge. Here each space on the compass
provided a separate microclimate for maturing Blandy’s finest wines in this “canteiro system”. Active
barrels from as far back as the 1920’s are still present in the canteiro. Some of the oldest, rarest and
finest Madeira is now reduced to quantities of small demijohns. These are housed in a lower level
caged vault. We fortunate few were soon to experience some of these, first hand.
16 “Canterio” aged wines were presented in flights of 8 followed by, with out question, the best meal
we had on the island. It was a grand and elegant buffet. A mid-day meal that was as beautifully
presented as it was fine. Two long oaken tables with ‘sturdy’ chairs were set in the Wine Library. The
shelves held the liquid manuscripts of Madeira’s history.

Blandy’s Sercial 10 Years Old
o Alcohol: 19%
o Total Acidity 7 g/L
o Residual Sugar 48 g/L
o Baumé 1.1
o Style-Dry
o Bright, silky, tart orange-green notes and bitter almond, warm alcohol and lifting
acidity on the finish

Blandy’s Verdelho 10 Years Old
o Alcohol: 19%
o Total Acidity 6 g/L
o Residual Sugar 73 g/L
o Baumé 2.2
o Style-Medium Dry
o Light orange-apricot notes with hints of wood and broad mid palate, crisp finish of
orange with subtle hazelnut and vibrant acidity.

Blandy’s Bual 10 Years Old
o Alcohol: 19%
o Total Acidity 7 g/L
o Residual Sugar 100 g/L
o Baumé 3.4
o Style-Medium Rich
o Elegant bouquet of raisins and orange peel, concentrated sweet baked apple, brown
sugar and fig with hints of orange-lime marmalade and walnut and a continuous
thread of acidity.

Blandy’s Malmsey 10 Years Old
o Alcohol: 19%
o Total Acidity 6.5 g/L
o Residual Sugar 123 g/L
o Baumé 4.9
o Style-Rich
o Toffee, molasses and fig cake bouquet carried through the viscous mid palate with
concentrated power and tension held together zesty lime notes and a slight salty
finish.

Blandy’s Colheita Sercial 1998 Single Harvest
o Alcohol: 20%
o Total Acidity 7.50 g/L
o Residual Sugar 58 g/L
o Baumé 1.1
o Style-Dry
16
o
o
Bottled 2013
Citrus aromas and almond notes with a bright citrus-lemon acidity carries through to
a creamy apricot and lemon chiffon mid palate, seamless alcohol and a bright fresh
finish of Mandarin orange.

Blandy’s Colheita Verdelho 1998 Single Harvest
o Alcohol: 20%
o Total Acidity 6.30 g/L
o Residual Sugar 77 g/L
o Baumé 2.2
o Style-Medium Dry
o Bottled 2013
o White floral and lemon grass and honey notes lead to a broader more complex midpalate of quince, green apple and almond and a baked lemon finish

Blandy’s Colheita Bual 1996 Single Harvest
o Alcohol: 20%
o Total Acidity 6.75 g/L
o Residual Sugar 100 g/L
o Baumé 3.4
o Style-Medium Rich
o Bottled 2011
o Nutty caramel and dried fig and date notes, vanilla toasted oak, combine with orange
marmalade zest, sweet full body and completely balanced acidity and alcohol

Blandy’s Colheita Malmsey 1996 Single Harvest
o Alcohol: 20%
o Total Acidity 7.75 g/L
o Residual Sugar 135 g/L
o Baumé 5.4
o Style-Rich
o Bottled 2011
o Praline and burnt sugar notes with hints of smoke, sweet ripe apple with cinnamon
spice, rounder mid-palate with an impression of warm brandy and the fresh finish
shows a touch of sea salt

Blandy’s Vintage Terrantez 1976 Vintage/ Frasqueira
o Alcohol: 20%
o Total Acidity 9.3 g/L
o Residual Sugar 90 g/L
o Baumé 3.2
o Medium-Rich
o Bottled 1997
o Aromas of smoke and caramel combine with savoury notes and candied orange-lime,
a mid-palate that is richer sweeter with date cake that slightly overpowers the acidity
until the finish.

Blandy’s Vintage Bual 1969 Vintage/ Frasqueira
o Alcohol: 21%
o Total Acidity 9.7 g/L
o Residual Sugar 94 g/L
o Baumé 3.3
o Medium-Rich
o Bottled 2012
o Smoke, toffee and vanilla spice notes combine with candied fruit and walnut and
flavors of exotic wood spice and crisp apple tart and an extremely long finish

Blandy’s Vintage Terrantez 1954 Demijohn*
o Alcohol: 19.4%
o Total Acidity 9.6 g/L
17
o
o
o
o
Residual Sugar 113 g/L
Volatile Acidity 1.56 g/L
Medium-Rich
Explosive, absolutely focused power and finesse with lifting volatile acidity that
increases the sense of fruit and alcohol as well, finishing warm with exotic candied
notes of spice wood and sweet orange.

Blandy’s Vintage Sercial 1940 Demijohn*
o Alcohol: 19%
o Total Acidity 11.4 g/L
o Residual Sugar 69.22 g/L
o Volatile Acidity 1.34 g/L
o Medium-Rich
o (First time the family seal was used on top of a bottle). Tight green, citrus orange and
a touch of smoke and wood, dominated by quince, and bright clean lifting green
edged lemon-lime notes.

Blandy’s Vintage Bastardo 1927 Demijohn*
o Alcohol: 21%
o Total Acidity 11.10 g/L
o Residual Sugar 90.92 g/L
o Volatile Acidity 1.53 g/L
o A sense of wood smoke and roasted coffee, hazelnut and fig-cake lifted by volatile
acidity that expands the aromas and lightens and elongates and ads a level of
precision to flavors of tart orange and lime zest

Blandy’s Vintage Bual 1920 Vintage/ Frasqueira
o Alcohol: 21%
o Total Acidity 10.5 g/L
o Residual Sugar 96 g/L
o Baumé 3.5
o Volatile Acidity 1.44 g/L
o Bottled 2006
o Chocolate, coffee and smoked walnut aromas lead to sweet fig and dates with
stunning length and finesse driving to a finish of sweet orange and bracing acidity

Blandy’s Verdelho Solera 1870
o Alcohol: 21%
o Total Acidity 9 g/L
o Residual Sugar 90.2 g/L
o Baumé 2.8
o Volatile Acidity 1.08 g/L
o Bottled 1988
o Smoke, coffee, and gentle hazelnut notes with caramel apple and cinnamon spice, a
silky mid –palate with racy-elegant green-edged acidity

Blandy’s Verdelho 1887 Demijohn*
o Alcohol: 21%
o Total Acidity 10.5 g/L
o Residual Sugar 91 g/L
o Volatile Acidity 1.26 g/L
o Sweet green-bright citrus and candied orange zest and a continuous scintillating
vibrant acidity that controls and balances the concentrated praline, burnt sugar notes
from attack to finish.
*The wines from Demijohn were generously procured from the Blandy’s family private cellar
as part of this fantastic tasting, Thank-you Chris and Francisco.
18
Visit to the Vineyards- Stephen Skelton MW
Visits to vineyard areas by Masters of Wine typically start with an introduction to the region, its
history, something about its vineyards – size, grape varieties, clones, rootstocks, training systems etc
– followed by numerous tastings and vineyard visits. Not so Madeira. Did we learn how many hectares
were planted overall? What was the average size of holding? What the split was between the ‘noble
varieties’ and the workhorse Tinta Negra Mole (TNM)? Did we hear anything about rootstocks, clones
or training systems? Is disease a big issue? What are the losses from mildew and botrytis? What about
the finances of grape production in such a difficult region? Well – not really has to be the answer and
we didn’t actually get to meet any growers at all! The Madeira Wine, Embroidery and Handicraft
Institute (IVBAM) – who not only look after wine, but also lace-making and rum production – did
take us to their small experimental vineyard where experimentation mainly seemed to be on clonal
selection and then to the north side of the island to see the scenery and to allow some of us to get the
real Madeira-vigneron experience of climbing up a steep goat track to see some vineyards.
However, from what we were told by various producers and from some of the questions we asked, we
did learn that there are around 400-450 ha of vines, 1,500 individual growers, that most of the
spraying is done by hand with back-packs, that TNM makes up about 85% of the total and that grape
production is not a very profitable pursuit. Prices of grapes, picked and delivered to the winery, range
from €1.20 per kilo for TNM up to €1.40 for the noble varieties – Sercial, Verdelho, Bual (or Boal if
you prefer) and Malvasia – and that Terrantez is also grown and valued for high quality. We also
divined that a variety developed at Geisenheim in the 1930s and heavily promoted by my old mentor
there, Professor Becker for making Sekt, was also valued. This is the Riesling x Riesling variety
Arnsburger which even the Germans don’t grow any more. The Madeirans like it for its high acidity
and there was even talk of making sparkling wine from it. Of the old hybrids, Cunningham and
Jacquet, we heard nothing but it is my guess that these high-yielding, disease-resistant varieties are
still grown on the island and who knows where they end up.
One thing we did learn was the very low natural sugar levels at picking. 8-9% potential alcohol was
about normal, with anything over 10% exceptional. Why sugars were so low is an interesting question.
‘To retain the acidity’ was the standard answer, but occasionally the idea that the grapes often had to
be picked before they succumbed to mildew or rotted from botrytis was floated which sounds a more
convincing answer to me. With the extremely small size of many (most) vineyards, the lack of roads
and decent paths to many of the plots, the problems associated with hand-spraying and the low value
of most of the grapes, if I was a producer I too would want to get them picked and into the press as
soon as possible.
Then truth is about wine in Madeira is that it is not really about the grapes. The terrain is inhospitable
and vineyards plots are uneconomically small and mechanisation mostly impossible. The pressure
from diseases is huge and the normal means of controlling them not always available. Costs are high,
distances to the wineries often great and grape prices are low – with only six main buyers, all of whom
seem to get along with each other, this has to have a bearing. Grape growing is for many (probably
most) a hobby. The vineyards have been inherited and unless you are very lucky and build on it,
probably not worth much for agricultural use. So grapes are required, but there isn’t a huge
relationship between quality of grape and quality of wine. The quality of the wine – which we were
shown in tasting after fabulous tasting – is down to the skill of the winemakers and the way in which
they age their wines. It was great to visit a vineyard area even smaller the the UK’s (in fact about one
third of the size) and one which also has its climatic limitations. The hospitality of the IVBAM and of
the producers was exemplary and made for an amazing four days.
19
Dinner at Choupana Hills- Jean- Michel Valette MW
Our last gathering began with a nod to our first day – in the form of a choice of four 10 year-old
Madeiras from Barbeito: Sercial, Verdelho, Boal, Malmsey, expertly served by local sommelier
Americo Pereira. Not only did we learn (as we would confirm later at dinner) that Madeira is a fine
accompaniment to food in the form of passed canapés, but it is also goes wonderfully well with stars
and sweeping nighttime terrace views.
Indeed, for our final goodbye our hosts at IVBAM treated us to the spectacular setting of Choupana
Hills high above night-time Funchal…..whose lights following the contour lines of the by now familiar
steep terraces looked like so many garlands on a Christmas tree.
Dinner followed at a monumental table offering multiple micro-climates at its various extremes.
Interestingly, this was our first meal with Madeira during the main course Barbeita Rainwater and 10
year Verdelho followed by H&H 10 and 15 year old Malmsey. Delicious in all respects.
And to close, much like on my first MW trip many years ago, end-of-trip thanks fell to our most recent
MW who (unlike this scribe so many years ago) showed no sense of nerves delivering a most
humorous and heartfelt speech of thanks to our hosts, worthy of the best. Surely it was (the) Madeira!
20
Master of Wine Biographies
Anthony Barne MW
Drawn inexorably into the wine trade from the Army, joining Todd Vintners in 1978. Moved to Hicks
& Don in 1980 after 6 months with the Domaine Thenard. Wine buying and mail order, first wth H &
D and then, in 1988, with John Harvey & Sons. In 1994 began Wine Consultancy for House of Fraser,
re-started Phillips Auctioneers' Wine Department and co-founded FWW Wines to import from three
Austrian growers. Became full time auctioneer in 1997 and part of Bonhams in 2001, remaining as
consultant to Hicks & Don and continuing to write for Living France magazine. In 2010 also became
the auctioneer for the Nederburg Wine auction in South Africa
Beverley Blanning MW
An independent wine journalist and author, Beverley writes for Decanter magazine and other
publications internationally. She is the author of 'Wine Tasting', the latest guide in the 'Teach Yourself'
series, and 'Biodynamics in Wine'.
Beverley is an experienced international competition judge. She also presents and educates about
wine for social and corporate events, including Christie's Wine Course and Decanter Education.
She is based in London, where she lives with her husband and two children
21
Jane Boyce MW
Jane Boyce MW is an independent Wine Consultant and freelance wine writer. She has over thirty
years experience in the wine trade, spanning all sectors of the business from buying to selling and
shipping to marketing as well as the composition of wine lists for hotels and restaurants and the
training of their staff. She has worked with various importers in London and Northern Ireland
including Saccone and Speed, Hollywood and Donnelly, James Nicholson and Gilbeys.
In 2000 she became Ireland's first female Master of Wine and is still the only Master of Wine resident
in Northern Ireland.
Having spent 15 years working freelance on writing and consultancy, Jane currently works 3 days a
week as Fine Wine Manager with JNwine. She is passionate about wine education and food and wine
matching.
She lives in Banbridge and enjoys tennis, walking, skiing, gardening and singing in the choir.
Jane has a BA Hons in European Studies from the University of Bath; she speaks fluent French, some
German, Spanish, Italian and Russian.
Joel Butler MW
As one of the first two resident American Masters of Wine (1990), Joel Butler, MW has had a long and
varied career in the wine industry.
He began his career with a noted retailer in the San Francisco Bay area, gaining an extraordinarily
wide range of experience with wines from all around the world. From this start, Butler subsequently
became a wine importer, worked for other retailers in the Bay area as a Buyer/Manager, as well as
working as sales manager for a small but vibrant Bay area distributor/importer. More recently, he was
the wine buyer for a key Bay Area restaurant/retail store. Throughout his career, Butler has also acted
as a consultant, his wide range of experience greatly appreciated by many colleagues and clients. He
has also been a highly regarded wine judge, with experience at the International Wine Challenge in
London, the Decanter World Wine Awards, various Australian Show judgings, the San Diego National
22
Wine Competition, the Banco d'Assagi and VinItaly competitions in Italy, San Francisco International
Wine Competition and the California State Fair.
Charles Curtis MW
Charles Thomas Curtis trained originally as a chef, receiving the "Grand Diplôme" from Le Cordon
Bleu Paris, and worked for many years in the restaurant industry. After a number of years with Moet
Hennessy USA, he worked as head of department for Christie’s auction house in New York and Hong
Kong prior to launching his own consultancy in 2012. In addition to his these duties, he works as a
journalist, author, consultant and wine judge.
Mark De Vere MW
Educated at St Edward's School, Oxford and Christ Church, Oxford. Worked for Oddbins in Oxford
and Windrush Wines in Cirencester, Hungerford and Oxford. Worked in vineyards and wineries in
Australia and New Zealand for one year before joining Robert Mondavi.
Sarah Jane Evans MW
I'm a journalist and broadcaster. I started my working life in book publishing after doing a degree at
Cambridge University in Classics and Social and Political Sciences. It was the serving of Sherry at
supervisions that started my affection for Sherry, and ended up in it becoming my Dissertation topic.
After some years, I moved into features journalism working for national newspapers and magazines,
and developing a specialism in food writing. In the early 90s I became Associate Editor of the BBC's
Good Food magazine, and I was also Chair and then President of the Guild of Food Writers.
23
I have a strong interest in Spain, sparked when I lived in the country during my gap year. I wrote
"Seville", a history of the city, I write the Spanish section of the Hugh Johnson Pocket Wine Guide,
and I am Co-Chair of Spain and Sherry for the Decanter World Wine Awards.
Today I'm also a General Governor of the British Nutrition Foundation, a Trustee of the Andre Simon
Memorial Fund, a Patron of HIV Aids charity The Food Chain, and one of the founders of the
Academy of Chocolate. My latest book is Chocolate Unwrapped.
I live in South London with my husband Richard, and we have two grown-up daughters.
Pat Farrel MW
Patrick first became seriously interested in wine during the early 1990s, and became a Master of Wine
in 1998. Patrick has been active in the Institute as an educator, mentor, examiner and past vicepresident of the North American board. He’s written chapters in a range of wine books. He’s CEO of
Inventive Technologies which makes pouring devices that decrease bite and bitterness in a range of
beverages that have polyphenols (whiskey, red wine, oaked white wine, coffee, tea, vegetable and fruit
juices). He’s also a medical doctor board certified in internal medicine, ophthalmology and medical
quality assurance. Patrick lives in Huntington Beach, California.
DC Flynt MW
DC passed the Master of Wine Exam in 1998. He lives in Louisiana and is the CEO/President of
MACH Flynt INC./DC FLYNT MW SELECTIONS. MACH Flynt INC. import, export, and distribute
wine in 42 US States and in Canada, Mexico, UK, Spain, Australia, Taiwan, Japan, and Korea. His
principal focus is importing wines from Burgundy, Rhone, Champagne and New Zealand while
exporting US wines. MACH Flynt Inc. is one of the largest US producers of control labels and buyer’s
own brands, with clients that include Costco, Central Market, H.E.B. and many others.
DC started his career as dishwasher in 1966. After college he was instrumental in building one of the
first FM radio Stations in Louisiana. He became a restaurateur in 1975, and started MACH Flynt INC.
in 1991. He watched Hurricane Rita destroy his restaurant of 29 years, Café’ Margaux, in 2005.
He and his wife of 30 years, Jane, have four children, Miller McDaniel, A’Dair Ragan, Campbell Craig,
and Harrison David , who collectively represent the MACH in MACH Flynt.
24
Lance Foyster MW
Born Winchester 1961. Peter Symonds Boys' Grammar School 72-79. BA in Classics, Magdalen College
Oxford 80-84. Lockes Wine Merchants, Winchester 85-87. Hampden Wine Co, Thame 88-95. Vinhos
de Portugal (UK) Ltd 95-98. Ben Ellis Wines Sept 98 onwards. Occasional wine guide for Arblaster &
Clarke. Now running Clarke Foyster Wines Ltd.
Nancy Gilchrist MW
Wine correspondent for The Boston Globe, USA 1985-1987. Lecturer and Head of Grants of St James's
School of Wine,UK 1988-1990. MW in 1995 gaining a Rosemount Bursary and a Listel Scholarship.
Freelance wine lecturer since 1990 working with a varied client base including Marks & Spencer,
Christie's Wine Education, Leith's School of Food & Wine and many corporate customers. Speak to
both trade and consumer groups throughout the UK on a wide range of topics but with particular
interest and experience in champagne, wine and food combinations and South Africa. Run wine tours,
especially to South Africa. Judge on South Africa panel for Decanter World Wine Awards. Also judge
for international chocolate competitions.
Lisa Granik MW
Originally from Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. Formerly a lawyer in private practice, I taught law at
Georgetown University and then both at Moscow State University and the Institute of State and Law
(Tbilisi, Georgie) as a Fulbright Scholar. Additional time served at Yale Law School, Moscow and St
Petersburg resulted in a doctorate in law, after which I decided life was too short to be consigned to a
25
life of vodka, potatoes and litigation. A felicitous change of career to the wine trade resulted in
experience both with small importers and large distributors. Along with periodic writing for The
World of Fine Wine and Sommelier Journal, I presently run Tastingworks, which offers a broad range
of management consulting services to wineries seeking improved access and sales in the US market.
Justin Howard-Sneyd MW
Early indications of Justin's interest in wine were the blind tastings of wine gums in the back of
physics lessons at school, but he didn't enter the profession until 1991, as a 'helper' on the IWC. In the
following 6 years, he worked in a small wine shop, ran tasting courses, did a stint with Oddbins, and
worked 6 vintages in South Africa, France, Hungary and Romania. In 1997, he joined Safeway as a
buyer, and began to study for the MW. Justin became a Master of Wine in 1999. He spent 5 years as a
wine buyer for Sainsbury's and joined to manage the Waitrose wine team in 2005. In early 2010, he
moved to Direct Wines as Global Wine Director. In his spare time, Justin owns a small block of vines
in the Roussillon, near Maury, and released his first vintage of 'Domaine of the Bee' in Spring 2009.
Mel Jones MW
Having started in the wine trade in her early twenties, working for importer and wine bar owner
Ebury, Chatham and Dover, Mel moved out of London and spent a short time working for Patrick
Grubb MW at Fine Vintage Wines in Oxford. She then had a break to breed, train and control the
vigour of three children, regularly spraying for pests within the canopy. Once the children had
matured, Mel started running wine courses for housewives in Gloucestershire and London, and
writing for the local and then regional paper. In late 2003 she set up www.QuaffersOffers.co.uk a
consumer website comparing supermarket and off-licence wines, particularly those on special offer,at
the same time as starting on her quest to become a Master of Wine. She is obsessed with introducing
the public to the exceptional flavours of authentic premium sherry and has a weekly wine slot on BBC
Radio Gloucestershire.
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Sheri Morano MW
Sheri Sauter Morano MW found her interest in wine initially sparked during a trip to Italy when she
was 17. She began her formal wine education at the International Wine Center in New York City in
1997 following graduation from Duke University, where she majored in Medieval and Renaissance
Studies and Classical Studies.
At the IWC, where she later became an instructor, Sheri completed the Intermediate Certificate in
1998 and the Advanced Certificate in 1999. In October of 2000 she became one of the youngest
Americans to complete the Diploma and the following year passed the Certified Wine Educator (CWE)
exam designed by the Society of Wine Educators to promote higher standards among wine educators
in the United States. In November 2003, Sheri earned the title Master of Wine.
Sheri is an independent wine educator, writer and judge, as well as a consultant with Strategic
Insights, a full-service marketing research firm. From 2004 through 2011, Sheri also served as the
spokesperson for the Wines of France campaign in the United States. She is currently in the process of
establishing the Triangle Wine School in the Raleigh-Durham, NC area in order to offer the Wine and
Spirits Education Trust certifications to local trade professionals. An experienced wine judge, Sheri
has judged at competitions in the US, the UK and Argentina.
Sheri resides in Chapel Hill, North Carolina with her husband, son, and an assortment of cats and
dogs. In her spare time she enjoys running, gardening, traveling and cooking.
Arne Ronold MW
Arne Ronold is founder, publisher and editor of the Norwegian wine magazine Vinforum since 1986,
and founder and head of the Norwegian Wine Academy since 1998. Arne was responsible for the
Norwegian Sommelier education at the Culinary Institute of Norway in 1999-2000, is still lecturing
here, and has been organising WSET courses in Norway in collaboration with the University of
Stavanger since 2000. He is also the author of several books about wine
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Mark Savage MW
Mark Savage was born in Uganda in 1949 and educated at Ampleforth College and University College
Oxford (MA Classics). He was president of the Oxford University Wine Circle and a member of the
Blind Wine Tasting Team. After leaving Oxford, he gained varied experience with Moet & Chandon,
Harrods, OW Loeb & Co. and Tanners of Shrewsbury before establishing his own business. Mark
became a Master of Wine in 1980.
He has served as a judge on several occasions for the Enological Society of the Pacific North West, the
International Wine Challenge and Decanter World Wine Awards. He was also a director of the first
International Pinot Noir Celebration held in Oregon in 1987 and is a regular visitor to the vineyards of
that region. His has represented Chateau Tertre Roteboeuf in the UK since 1982. Other specialised
areas of interest include Austria, Hungary and Slovenia, Piedmont and South Africa.
As owner of Savage Selection Ltd he currently works directly with about 50 small family wine estates
in a dozen different countries. He has served for 10 years as an advisor to HM Government Hospitality
Fund and is consultant to Winefields Auction House in Amsterdam. He is the author of ‘The Red
Wines of Burgundy’ (Octopus Press) and is an occasional contributor to ‘The World of Fine Wine’ and
‘The Drinks Business’.
Stephen Skelton MW
Stephen Skelton started his career in wine in 1975. After 12 months at Schloss Schönborn in
Germany's Rheingau winegrowing region and two terms at Geisenheim Wine School, he returned to
the UK in 1977 to establish Tenterden Vineyards in Kent (now the home of the UK's largest wine
producer, English Wines Group) where he made wine for 22 vintages. He was also winemaker at
Lamberhurst Vineyards, then the UK's largest wine producer, between 1988 and 1991.
Stephen is a consultant to the English & Welsh wine industry, and is involved with planting vineyards,
particularly for the production of sparkling wine. Since 1986 he has written and lectured widely on
English wine and has published four guides to UK vineyards, plus the handbook for students
"Viticulture". In 2001, he won the Andre Simon Award for "Wine Book of the Year".
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He became a Master of Wine in 2003, and won the prestigious Robert Mondavi Winery Award for the
highest marks in the Theory portion of the exam. In 2005 he was awarded the Noval Award for
Communication.
Stephen was a member of the MW Education Committee from 2003-09 and was for 6 years the course
wine coordinator, responsible for selecting wines for the worldwide and London courses. He was
elected to the Council of the IMW in 2009.
Rod Smith MW
Rod came to wine, as so many people in the UK trade, through a Christmas vacation job with Oddbins,
whilst studying at Chelsea School of Art, in 1987. He completed his degree in illustration and graphic
design at Duncan of Jordanstone College of Art in Dundee. Whilst working as a freelance illustrator,
he ended up working part-time in Oddbins again. Here he decided that wine for a living, with pictures
as a hobby, was more secure, affordable and rewarding than the other way round.
After many years in Oddbins from branches to head office to parent company, Rod established a
consultancy business involving wine education and marketing. In 2005 Rod joined wine importer
Mentzendorff, a company largely owned by Champagne Bollinger. Here he completed his Master of
Wine, taking as his dissertation subject "Chenin Blanc in Anjou-Saumur".
In 2007 Rod found irresistible the lure of dealing with the world's finest wines and the world's most
discerning customers, when the chance to work for Vins Sans Frontières in Nice came up. He has
enjoyed living and working in the Côte d'Azur since then.
Mai Tjemsland MW
Mai Tjemsland is owner of GastroConsult, a Norwegian restaurant group with two restaurants, a
catering company and a private wine club in Oslo. Mai is the first Norwegian female Master of Wine.
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Neil Tully MW
Neil joined the wine trade in 1986, having graduated from London's Central Saint Martins College of
Art & Design. After gaining a wide experience of the traditional wine trade at the Bow Wine Vaults in
the City, he spent a number of years with Cellarworld, The Fulham Road Wine Centre and The Fulham
Road Wine School, and passed the Master of Wine examination in 1993.
In 1992 he set up Amphora design Ltd as a specialist design consultancy to the wine trade, now based
in Bath and working with clients in 28 countries. Amphora includes, in addition to its award-winning
design work, brand development, advertising and marketing-related activities for its clients.
Amphora created and has been responsible for the design development of Kumala, and was behind
Viña Errazuriz's award-winning redesign, and also a major redesign of Tesco's own-label range.
Neil regularly lectures in the UK and internationally and has contributed to a number of publications.
He lives near Wells in Somerset, and is married with three children
Jean-Michel Valette MW
Jean-Michel Valette is chairman of San Francisco based Vinfolio which enables fine wine enthusiasts
to buy, sell and manage their collections online. In addition he is also chairman of Peet's Coffee & Tea
and of Select Comfort as well as a director of Huneeus Vintners. When he is not on a phone or in a
meeting, Jean-Michel likes mountains, riding his bike and tending to his bread.
Jean-Michel is chairman of the Institute of Masters of Wine.
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Demetri Walters MW
Private Wine Events – Sales Manager
Berry Bros. & Rudd
Demetri enjoyed a varied career, from chasing cows around Australia cattle yards to head-hunting,
before finding his home in wine. With a family background in viticulture, joining the wine business
was the realisation of a long-held ambition. His taste is broad and eclectic, and his enthusiasm lies in
demystifying the complexities of the world of wine; principally to private audiences but also in wine
school and at ticketed wine events. Demetri is responsible for his company’s Hellenic range of wines,
is an enthusiastic member of the Madeira Club, and is privileged to taste ancient madeira on a not in
infrequent basis. He became a Master of Wine in 2013.
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