Winter Grapevine

Transcription

Winter Grapevine

T he Grapevine
Vol. 25 No. 4 • Winter 2012
Celebrating 25 Years
2012
“Wine is the most healthful and most
hygienic of beverages” – Louis Pasteur
© David Kingsley
1987
Chapter and
Member News
Society
Happenings
Spotlight On
By the Glass
Idea Fair
Page 3
Page 4
Page 23
Page 36
Page 39
H ost Letter
2012-2013
Board of Managers
Joseph F. Basso, MCM, CCE
Birmingham Country Club
Host
Eric Gregory, CCM
Claremont Country Club
Cellarmaster
Joseph Basso, MCM, CCE
Welcome to the premier issue of The Grapevine. Your quarterly newsletter from
the Wine Society has been revised with a new design and a formal content plan
targeted at bringing more Society information and wine education to your desk.
The Grapevine is conveniently divided into sections giving you the content you
are looking for. We hope you enjoy the new format. Many thanks to editor, Melissa
Low, for her hard work.
In my first communication with you almost nine months ago, we ran down the list
of initiatives that your IWS Board was slated to tackle in 2012 and now it’s time
to see how we did.
In the Education arena, we developed a Conference Education Session on introductory wine knowledge. Regardless of your level of understanding, you should
attend the session “Wine 101“ led by Terry Anglin, CCM, CCE. We also introduced quarterly webcasts, debuting last September. Look for a whole calendar
of them in the coming months. We are still working to improve the utilization of
the Vino 101 training program, the creation of wine core competencies and a
sommelier certification initiative remains on the table.
We developed a membership marketing strategy in celebration of our 25th
Anniversary. “25 for 25” will continue through San Diego and has already brought
in 62 new members. Furthermore, we’ll now be recognizing our members’
longevity at the Business Meeting each year at Conference.
2
We reassessed our Chapter Wine Society Representatives program and wrestled
with what to do for a while. We discussed whether it made sense to regionalize
the representative system. Recognizing that it had not been effective earlier in our
Society’s organization, we elected to have the Board reach out to Chapter Reps
and make them aware of resources available to them and review the Blueprint
for Chapter Success. A further review of the Chapter of the Year Program for relevance leaves that award program in place.
Along the lines of communication, marketing and promotion, you’re reading our
biggest accomplishment; a new look, format, design and content plan. We’ve improved our information sharing, and the promotion of the “full ride” Warren Ar-
John R. Schuler, CCM
Oak Tree Country Club
Kitchenmaster
Craig C. Surdy, CCM, CCE
The Reserve Club
Cellarer
Christina A. Toups, CCM, CCE
Ridglea Country Club
Kitchener
Thomas M. Czaus, CCM
Country Club of York
Secretary
J. Brent Tartamella, CCM, CCE
The Westmoor Club
Treasurer
Paul Andrew Smith III
Willow Ridge Country Club
Barrister
Nadine D. Rockwell, CCM
Annapolis Yacht Club
Toastmaster
Terry J. Anglin, CCM, CCE
San Diego Yacht Club
Board Member
Mike Davis, CCM
Park City Club
Board Member
Oliver Boudin, CCM, CCE
Oklahoma City Golf &
Country Club
Board Member
(continued on page 40)
C hapter and Member News
The Annual Chartwell Golf & Country Club Cab Night
gathered six elite Maryland wine distributors from the
Greater Baltimore, MD, area to display some of their most
prized, top-rated, and also, greatly valued wines on Friday,
November 9, 2012. The main ballroom hosted 32 different
wine selections, predominantly big cabs, but also included
merlot, barolo, shiraz, chardonnay, “meritage,” tempranillo,
malbec (and one lonely brut champagne). This event contributes huge success towards wines from multiple regions from around the world and prices ranging from
$20 to $100. Chartwell’s wine locker program allows its membership the ability to
taste these wines and have future opportunity orders to share in the dining room with
On Monday, April 30, 2012,
fellow members and guests on a following visit to the club. Chartwell enjoyed a ban-
the New England Club Man-
ner event closing the event with 171 reservations and churning 484 bottles and a
agers Association embarked
whopping $19,000 in total sales, not including the small $50 per person charge
on a Wine Society Outing to
which also adds to the bottom line. A special thanks and congratulations is extended
The Wine Bottega. The Wine
to the Chartwell “Wine Guys” for hosting this event: for your support and active par-
Bottega specializes in sustain-
ticipation, year to year, we thank you! Top sellers included the Cade Napa Valley,
able wines, carrying wines
Cuvée; the Vajra Barolo, Italy; and the Michele Schlumberger Dry Creek Cabernet.
that are either organic, biodynamic or natural. At this tast“Movers and Shakers” tasting.
As many of you may know, Robert Mondavi is something
This tasting highlighted wine
of a living, even though tragic, legend in Napa Valley and
producers and wines that are
wine circles around the world. The Mondavi Winery,
on the forefront of the natural
which was established in 1966, grew to be one of the
wine movement. As many
biggest and most reputable of Napa Valley wine brands
clubs are becoming more sus-
in a short thirty year period. Continuum hit the market in
tainable in their practices, this
the United States in 2005 representing the first wine the
tasting was very relevant with
family had made since they sold the Mondavi Winery. The family saw Continuum
the “going green” trend now
as a way to regain its rightful spot in the Napa Valley wine hierarchy. The 2009 Con-
emerging in clubs.
tinuum is a fabulous expression of the Mondavi Estate with more than 80 percent
sourced from the vineyard on Prichard Hill, high above Oakville, with
aromas of black cherry, chocolate and summer rose opening to cardamom and
black truffle on the palate. The 2009 is the fifth release; it is lush, supple and ele-
Please send your club or
chapter wine-related news
to Editor, Melissa Low, at
[email protected] for
inclusion in a future edition.
gant with a long complex finish. With fall right around the corner, and harvest time
fast approaching, it was a perfect occasion for an exquisite gourmet wine dinner to
celebrate the release of the 2009 Mondavi Continuum, presented by Carlo Mondavi
at Forest Lake Country Club (Bloomfield Hills, MI) in conjunction with the Detroit
Club Managers Association. Congratulations to Traci Bichalski, CCM, General
Manager and Wendy Anglin, Clubhouse Manager, for orchestrating such a fantastic
event at their club.
ing, the shop held their
3
S ociety Happenings
A Tasting Tour of Napa and Sonoma
The International Wine Society’s Annual Wine Tour of
Napa and Sonoma Valley counties in California gave
attendees a tantalizing taste of some of the finest wines
in the country. Explore each day through the eyes of seven
different workshop attendees.
4
Day One – October 1, 2012
Bob Crissman, CCM, Kensington Golf & Country Club,
Naples, FL
After a nice continental breakfast at the University Club of
San Francisco, 25 anxious “Wine-auxs” loaded their luggage and boarded the bus for a short ride down the hill to
Pier #40 on San Francisco Bay, home to the active America’s Cup racing compound. We were treated to a cruise
on board an 80’ yacht including rare and exclusive clearance to cruise under the Golden Gate Bridge! Fine bubbly
was generously provided by Domaine Carneros, Schramsberg & Mumm Napa as we cruised under a beautiful,
sunny and unseasonably warm California sky!
Upon returning to the dock, we boarded the bus and
headed north, over the Golden Gate Bridge and into wine
country – Sonoma to be exact. We pulled into Hanzell
Vineyards on a beautiful hillside overlooking southern
Sonoma Valley. As we exited the bus the reality of leaving
the tempered bay weather hit us in the lungs with the 90°F
air, something we learned the grapes and the growers love
as they approach harvest. While some picking had begun,
a theme we heard throughout the week was that this late
blast of heat (95-105°F) for the week was most welcome
to drive up the sugars in the fruit.
We enjoyed a beautiful catered lunch by Wine Thyme and
sampled some of the best from Hanzell’s 5,500 cases per
year production, including their ’10 Chardonnay, ’11
“Sabella” Chardonnay and ’09 Pinot Noir, all of which
were fabulous. Harzell has the oldest continuously producing Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vines in North America. The winery, commissioned by founding owner,
Ambassador James D. Zellerback in 1957 was modeled
after the 12th century press building at Clos de Vougeot.
While modernization and expansion has been realized in
the past 50 years, the current proprietor, Alexander de
Brye has maintained the original vision and beauty set
forth in 1957.
From Hanzell, we travelled north, further into the Myacamas Mountains to Fisher Vineyards at an elevation of
1,400 ft. but warmer still as we were farther from the bay.
Fred and his wife, Juelle, purchased the 100 acres in 1973
and have planted only 30 beautiful acres with Chardonnay and Cabernet. Along with their parents, Rob and
Cameron Fisher, they were most hospitable, and offered to
us some of their best Chardonnays and Cabernets from
Whitney’s Vineyard, Wedding Vineyard and Mountain Estate Vineyard. These fantastic wines were accompanied by
great cheese from Sonoma’s Bellwether Farms. It was great
to see Fred and his family together meeting up with so
many long-time acquaintances.
From there, we strolled up the drive to Joy’s parents, Mr.
and Mrs. Barry and Audrey Sterling’s beautifully restored
1876 Victorian home. We dined en plein air in the adjacent gardens on locally sourced heirloom tomato gazpacho and local lamb Osso Bucco. The great meal was
highlighted by Sterling’s Estate Chardonnay and their
Thomas Road Pinot Noir, both wonderful accompaniments to the meal. If that wasn’t enough, the season’s full
harvest moon rose during our meal creating an even more
dramatic atmosphere! After dinner, we “retired’ to the library filled with art and other collectables from around
the world, and enjoyed espresso and Mrs. Sterling’s signature chocolate-orange truffles. It was a truly warm and
welcoming first dinner for all of us that will live in our
hearts forever; thanks to our most gracious hosts.
As much as we wanted to linger, it was time to move on
toward the northern end of Sonoma and check into the
Hotel Healdsburg. It is a beautiful, contemporary property
that I would highly recommend to anyone traveling in the
area – very spacious rooms with ample first class amenities. We had just enough time to settle in, freshen up and
head to the hotel courtyard for a taste or two of the fine
wines from DuMOL, including their Hyde Vineyard
sourced Clare Chardonnay and Pinot Noirs from their Estate and Russian River Valley vineyards. Indeed, great
wines to kick off our first evening together.
As the sun headed toward the horizon, we made our way
to the International Wine Society’s friend, supporter and
Dinner at Iron Horse Winery with the Sterlings
San Francisco Skyline and the Bay Bridge
all around class act, Joy Sterling’s Iron Horse Vineyards for
an unforgettable dinner and visit. We started at the tasting
room and winery where Joy met us and popped the exclusive Silver Cuvee, which was crafted by the Iron Horse
team and a group of Wine Society members to commemorate our 25th Anniversary. A real treat that we all enjoyed
tasting much more I’m sure, than one of our (nameless)
guests did wearing! We took a turn through the Iron Horse
offices where Joy modestly but proudly highlighted some
of the displayed menus from various State Dinners and accolades from the President’s offices. The Sterlings are very
proud of the fact that their wines have been served at the
White House for the last five consecutive administrations,
dating back to 1985… a bi-partisan example more in this
country could follow.
5
(continued from page 5)
The protector of the Davis Family Gardens
Back to the bus and off to bed for much needed rest for
day two!
Day Two – October 2, 2012
Ted G. Thie, CCM, Minnehaha Country Club,
Sioux Falls, SD
6
Our morning visit brought us to Holdredge vineyards,
where we met with owner and winemaker John Holdredge. Throughout our 90 minute visit, John had our
group wildly entertained with his dry wit and stories,
which we all took with us the rest of the trip. John taught
us that winemakers are not rock stars, but that Mother Nature is the rock star, and the winemaker’s job is to get great
fruit and not screw it up! In order to make great Pinot
Noir, in John’s words, you need a brain, a heart and a
tongue. In addition to taking turns punching down grapes
and doing John’s job for him – we also enjoyed several
Pinots including the Selection Massale and the 2010
Bucher vineyard.
We then headed across the street to the Davis Family
Winery. Guy Davis started as a wine buyer in a restaurant,
went to school for economics to become a stock broker
and then returned to his passion as the owner of Passport
Wines. Guy eventually bought a vineyard with neglected
Zinfandel grapes in the Russian River and planted Pinot,
Chardonnay, Syrah and a small amount of Zinfandel.
Davis Family also produces Cabernet Sauvignon at the
highest point in Sonoma at approximately 2,200 feet.
Guy gave an in-depth explanation of the Russian River
and the various micro-climates. Guy used three different
maps to show the group how the wind and fog moved
through the Russian River Valley, making the region a
prime area for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay production.
The three wines we tasted were his Soul Patch Pinot Noir,
Russian River Chardonnay and his Guyzer Block Syrah.
Each wine had its own distinct characteristics and flavors.
Guy also brought a sampling of his recently harvested
Bordeaux grapes including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot,
Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc.
The group was then treated to an idle lunch with Mark
McWilliams and Executive Chef Tim Kaulfers at Arista
Winery. Mark answered a number of questions regarding
his family history making their way from Texas to Sonoma
via the Willamette Valley and Northern California. Mark
informed the group that his family specializes in Pinot
Noir, but also produces a small amount of white wine.
Their total case production is approximately 5,000 with
3,500 cases being the Pinot Noir varietal. Our lunch consisted of three courses of incredible food and three amazing Pinot Noir selections. The first course from Chef Tim
was a free range duck leg confit ravioli with local oyster
mushrooms, garden arugula and a pinot pomegranate
gastrique paired with a 2011 Russian River Pinot Noir.
The second course was a maple brined heritage pork loin
with local corn couloirs, heirloom tomato basil oil, gypsy
peppers and smoked purple potatoes paired with a 2011
Longbow Pinot Noir. The final course was a chocolate
crème brûlée with Maple whipped cream and bacon
Guy Davis, educating us about the Russian River Valley
with a little help from Henry.
Our Sonoma Coast Panel presenters were Carol Kemp
(Red Car), Ken Freeman (Freeman) and Andy Peay (Peay).
Tuesday evening was an open night for dinner; both Eric
and Matt were kind enough to set up a prix-fixe dinner
at Dry Creek Kitchen located next door to our hotel, the
Hotel Healdsburg. Acclaimed chef Charlie Palmer set up
a six-course menu and offered $10 corkage fees. A great
way to end the day!
powder paired with a 2010 Two Birds Estate Pinot Noir,
named after his mom and dad. The meal and information
were both incredible.
Day Three – October 3, 2012
Rhett J. Robicheaux, CCM, Naples Yacht Club, Naples, FL
The afternoon session brought us to Lynmar Winery, where
we were treated to a discussion with three prominent
wine personalities from the Russian River Valley. Tracy
Dutton from Dutton Estate, Lynn Fritz from Lynmar and
Chris Munsell from MacMurray Ranch were our presenters. We tasted through several wines from each winery
and discussed several winemaking trends including
Chardonnay styles, un-oaked wines, clonal selections and
alternative varietals in the Russian River Valley.
It’s cooling down a bit with a high of only 88°F this morning. We started a little late as the bus was running about
40 minutes behind giving some of us time to explore the
quaint little town of Healdsburg. Once the bus arrived, we
were off to tour the Rockpile AVA with Clay Mauritson.
The drive up to Rockpile was absolutely beautiful, as we
stopped at the winery to pick up Mauritson’s sales manager, Whitney, to join us the rest of the way to one of the
most incredible sites of the trip.
The final session of the day was at Freeman Vineyards with
three different vintners all with distinct growing regions
within the West Sonoma Coast region. We gathered in the
caves at Freeman to compare and contrast these regions
wines. Our three winemaker hosts gave us a presentation
of the West Sonoma Coast growing regions. Peay Vineyards is located in the northern most area of Annapolis on
the San Andreas fault. As Andy Peay explained, his growing time is around 1,646 growing hours during 2005 or
more than 400 hours short of the Willamette Valley. The
yields from 2010 and 2011 were down more than 30 percent, but 2012 will be up more than 30 percent. We
tasted the 2010 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir and the 2010
Estate Chardonnay. Red Car Winery is in the Fort Ross
region where they had 2,041 growing degree days in
2005. This region has cool growing days and warm growing nights. We tasted the 2010 Estate Pinot Noir and the
2011 Sonoma Coast Chardonnay as presented by wine-
Upon our arrival at Rockpile, we turned into the gate to
find ourselves climbing up an unbelievable winding road,
up to where Clay was waiting for the group. This was most
maker Carrol Kemp. The final winery of the day was Freeman Vineyards located in the Freestone Region of West
Sonoma Coast. Their growing distinctions are lower wind
speeds, filtered sunlight and cooler temperatures. They
also averaged a very low 1,688 degree days for their growing season in 2005. Ken Freeman tasted us on two barrel
Chardonnays – the 2011 Heitz and the 2011 Keefer
Ranch, as well as the 2010 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir.
7
The family values and wonderful history of the Mauritson
family was very enlightening. To this day, they still find
time to enjoy family dinner together, where a bottle of Port
is opened and stories are told. We also managed to taste
some great wines starting with the 2011 Mauritson Sauvignon Blanc, Dry Creek Valley, followed by the following:
2010 Mauritson Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley, 2010 Rockpile Zinfandel, Jack’s Cabin, 2009 Mauritson Cabernet
Sauvignon, Sonoma County and closing with the 2010
Rockpile Cabernet Sauvignon.
Clay and Eric enjoy glasses of wine on this beautiful day.
interesting in a coach bus. Clay welcomed the group and
told the story of the Mauritson Family. The story dates back
140 years and six generations. In 1868, the family established a homestead in the Rockpile area of Northern
Sonoma to raise Marino sheep. In 1884, the tradition
began when the first vineyard was planted by Clay’s greatgreat-great grandfather. Their family’s Rockpile homestead
and ranch grew to 4,000 acres by the early 1960s when
all but 700 acres were taken by the Army Corps of Engineers in order to develop Lake Sonoma.
As the family was known for farming, their operation
moved first to Alexander Valley then expanded into the
bench land of Dry Creek Valley, where they continued to
deliver superior fruit for regional winemakers to work with
year after year. The family currently manages 310 vineyards acres spread across Dry Creek Valley, Alexander Valley and Rockpile Appellations.
8
Next stop was Zinfandel Education with Ed Sbragia, where
we were met by Kyrsa Dixon from Winegrowers of Dry
Creek Valley, who coordinated the Dry Creek Valley Portion of our Sonoma County trip. Originally from Italy, the
Sbragia Family Vineyards is just as we found throughout
our time in Sonoma, “Family is very strong.” We were
greeted by Ed in the vineyard to enjoy a glass of 2011
Sauvignon Blanc from Home Ranch. He gave us an
overview of Dry Creek Valley and its preeminent varieties,
Zinfandel and Sauvignon Blanc. Sbragia Family Vineyards
is a dream that Ed has had for some time, a small, familyowned winery making limited, individual lots of wine
from grapes grown in selected blocks of his favorite vineyards. He started his own label in 2001 after being the
winemaker at Beringer for many years. In 2002, his son
started making wines with him and the first vintage was in
2006.
In the mid-1900s, Clay Mauritson returned from college
with an unexpected longing to get back in the vineyard.
Clay was determined to add winemaking to the family
operation. In 1998, they released the inaugural Mauritson
Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel. It wasn’t until the year 2000
when they looked at the potential of growing superior
grapes in the Rockpile region. The combination of low air
moisture, poor soils (17 distinct soil types) and moderate
temperatures has turned heads. Today, they craft small production single vineyard wines that showcase the delivery
of Rockpile’s rugged terrain.
Zinfandel grapes at Sbragia
We are great at following directions, especially when there
is wine involved.
We then proceeded upstairs to the patio where we were
seated out doors over looking the property of vineyards.
We were all seated in a U-shaped seating arrangement,
with Ed sitting in the middle telling family stories. He was
talked more in detail about Zinfandel with the group tasting through Sbragia Zinfandels, a Chardonnay and Cabernet. A big part of the appeal of doing his own label is
working with his family. Ed’s son, Adam, makes the wine
with him. His youngest son, Kevin, works in the cellar during harvest. Adam’s wife, Kathy, runs their hospitality, and
his wife, Jane, and daughter, Gina, are often found helping
out in the tasting room. The Family vineyards are Ed’s father’s legacy to him and his children.
Gino’s and La Promessa Zinfandel are both tributes to Ed’s
father Gino. Ed’s father always said “Keep the barrels
clean and topped and the wine will take care of itself.”
WOW; what a way to kick off a morning in Sonoma! Next
was lunch hosted by the Wine Growers of Dry Creek Valley, at Quivira Winery. The visit began with a tour of the
grounds, given by the marketing director, Andrew Fegelman. As we arrived, Zinfandel grapes were being sorted
before heading to the tanks. They hand crated all 50,000
cases and field and winery sort. The Zinfandel grapes are
noticeably larger as we all had a chance to taste how
sweet and plump they were. The process is sort, de-stem
and ferment on skin for 10 to 14 days in tank. The stems
and old grapes get composted and brought back to the
vineyard.
The lunch was catered by local Healdsburg Restaurant,
Zin, and featured Sauvignon Blancs and Zinfandels from
top Dry Creek Valley producers including: Quivira Vineyards & Winery represented by Hugh Chappelle, Winemaker; Fritz Winery represented by Clay Fritz, Owner;
Ridge Vineyards represented by Mark Vernon, President;
and Seghesio Family Vineyards represented by Peter
Seghesio.
Next on the agenda was a choice of either a Library Tasting at Jordan or a Mountain Helicopter Tour at Stonestreet.
I elected for the Helicopter Tour at Stonestreet and my
wife chose the Tasting at Jordan and enjoyed it immensely.
There were twelve of us that chose the helicopter ride and
were broken up into two groups of six. I was part of the
first group which chose to go up first as the other group
went inside for a tour and tasting. This was the first time a
group like ours has ever been allowed to do this (meaning
to take the helicopter out). The pilot, Bruce, had been Jess
Jackson’s pilot for some time and flew him around the
vineyards regularly. What an experience this was.
The helicopter ride was about twenty minutes and took us
over the Mayacamas Mountains which tower high above
California’s Alexander Valley home to Alexander Mountain
Estate and the wines of Stonestreet. Of the 5,300 acres, we
were privileged to fly over only 900 acres as those are
planted to grapes, while the remaining land retains its natural biodiversity and abounds with streambeds, redwoods
and ancient oaks, providing habitat to cougars, owls and
wild boar. Comprised of 235 separate vineyard blocks and
sub-blocks aligned in every direction, Alexander Mountain
Stonestreet’s Alexander Mountain Estate Aerial View from
Helicopter.
9
Day Four – October 4, 2012
Stephen G. Roper, CCM, CCE, Meridian Hills Country
Club, Indianapolis, IN
On Thursday morning, we departed Sonoma Valley and
Hotel Healdsberg for Napa Valley. Our first stop was at
Sterling Vineyards, where after we took the tram up to the
winery, the Napa Valley Vintner's Association conducted a
“Cabernet Seminar,” with host Patsy McGaughy giving a
history of Napa Valley from its beginnings to present.
Some of the noteworthy facts were:
The Menu Offered at Chalk Hill Estate Dinner.
Estate is an intricate puzzle of peaks, valleys and ridges.
After experiencing this adventure, it quantifies the quote
from Jess Jackson “The Land is the Brand.”
Once our tour was over, we preceded on to the back patio
of the estate for tasting of Stonestreet 2010 Sauvignon
Blanc and 2010 Broken Road Chardonnay accompanied
by some wonderful appetizers. We then went for a tour
and finished with a tasting and lecture from Amy Scholz,
Wine Club & Hospitality, and Ryan Harris, SVP Classics
Marketing. We tasted the following wines: 2009 Monument Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon, 2009 Bear Point Cabernet Sauvignon and 2007 Christopher’s Bordeaux Style
Blend.
•
•
•
•
Napa produces only four percent of the wine made in
California.
It is 1/8th the size of Bordeaux.
It has some of the most diverse soil profiles of any
wine growing region in the world.
The dry summers offer consistent growing conditions.
1861 was the first commercial winery owed by Charles
Krug, from 1888-1900 wine growing acreage was reduced
from 16,000 acres to 2000 acres due to phyloxera and
was further set back by the earthquake of San Francisco,
the depression and prohibition. Rebirth came afterwards
through the efforts of George de Latour. In 1944, with
seven vintners, the Napa Valley Wine Growers Association
was formed. Vol. 25 No. 4 • Winter 2012
The day is not over yet; we then were picked up by the
bus to gather the rest of the group at Jordan and headed
back to Hotel Healdsburg to freshen up for yet another
tasting on the screened porch featuring Ramey Wines.
David Ramey joined us and entertained our group with
great wines and stories.
10
The evening ended with an unbelievable Estate Dinner at
Chalk Hill. Chalk Hill Estate is one of the most spellbinding wineries in the word. Hidden in the rugged foothills of
the Mayacamas Mountains Range that divides Napa and
Sonoma Counties, the winery offers extraordinary scenery;
a sense of serenity and seclusion; cooling maritime
breezes; and a providential climate for wine grapes. More
than 1,300 acres are devoted to vineyards, a winery, hospitality center, culinary gardens, residence, stables, equestrian pavilion, sports fields, fishing and swimming ponds,
guest houses and expansive wilderness areas.
Stag’s Leap. Each winery showcased one to two wines
from pre-2000 vintages. What a treat this was!
Day Five – October 5, 2012
Jonathan Shear, CCM, CCE, The Bayou Club, Houston, TX
We then sat down for lunch featuring alternative red and
white varietals with winemakers Michael Keenan (Keenan
Winery), Anthony Truchard (Truchard Vineyards), Chris
Phelps (Swanson Vineyards) and Henry Hansen (Sterling).
Next stop was Chateau Montelena. Here the group had
the opportunity to break into teams and create their own
Cabernet Sauvignon blend of wine using five individual
lots of various Bordeaux varietals and oak influences. The
winning team each received a copy of the book, Judgment
of Paris.
We then stopped at Bond Vineyards and tasted their world
renowned wines overlooking the Harlan Estate vineyards
and beautiful Oakville appellation. The 2006 Pluribus and
the 2006 Quella were some of the finest wines tasted on
the trip.
Following check-in at Silverado Resort, we had a wine reception featuring Mary Rocca of Rocca Family Wines, and
on to dinner at Stag’s Leap. Dinner featured the wine makers from Corison, Farrella-Park, Stony Hill, Marketta and
Careful analysis of the Bond 2006 Quella happening.
Our panelists were Mark DeVrie (Robert Mondavi Winery), Delia Viader (Viader), Timothy Milos (Rubissow), Paul
Colantumi (Rocca), Rolando Herrera (Mi Sueno) and
Henry Hansen (Sterling). The Cabernets discussed and
tasted demonstrated a wide range of styles from across the
valley influenced by climate, soils and winemaking techniques.
Our day started out at 7:45 a.m. Today was the day that
we all got some hands-on experience in vineyard and
winery operations during harvest and crush. We assembled in the Hotel lobby where wineries drew our names
out of a bowl. My wife and I along with Thomas Birmingham, CCM, CCE, and his wife, Julie Birmingham, found us
hooked up with the Trefethen Winery. As we headed to the
winery and drove down the entrance drive lined with
maple trees, I felt a sense of apprehension. I had visited
this winery 10 years earlier and found the wines to lack
taste. I was in for a nice surprise. We met our first tour director, Jon Ruel, the Chief Operating officer and Vineyard
director for the Trefethen wine group. We headed for the
Mountain Side Vineyard where the crew which started at
midnight was just finishing up. We were given knives and
buckets and went down the rows picking grapes. When
we finished, we gave our stash to the crew as they are
paid a percentage of total tons collected. We then headed
back to the winery where we met the head winemaker,
Zeke Neeley. We proceeded to sample tastings out of fermentation tanks of the various varietals. Later we hooked
back up with Jon and had a tour of the gardens. Trefethen
has an extensive garden program. They grow everything
from kiwis to tomatoes. They use all the fresh produce in
the various meals they serve. Jon brought us into the tasting room where we tasted Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet
11
Sauvignon and the big dog, Halo Cabernet. I was blown
away. The wines were delicious, all of them. We then sat
down for a tasty relaxing meal where both Thomas and I
talked about the history of our clubs. On the way out, I
ordered several wines to be shipped after November 15.
It is just too hot to ship wines to Texas before that date.
Upon our return, some played golf at Napa Valley County
Club and some of us just relaxed at the Silverado Resort
which was used as our home base in Napa. Later, we attended a “Rising Stars” dinner at Napa Valley Country
Club. A tasty meal was served. We started with bubbles
from the Widow and then proceeded with dinner. All
courses were naturally with wines. Here was the bill of
fare:
Rising Stars Dinner
Friday October 5, 2012
Heirloom Tomato Salad with Extra Virgin Olive oil
2010 Phipps Family Cellars Melange Blanc
2011 Buoncristiani Sauvignon Blanc
Scottish Poached Salmon
Julienne of Vegetables
Soy Butter Sauce
2011 Aonair Wine White Wine
2010 Vineyard 7&8 Estate chardonnay
Wild Mushroom Risotto
2007 Phipps Family Cellars Status Quo
2008 Buoncristiani O.P.C.
12
Grilled Lamp Chop
Baby Spinach
Yukon Gold Potatoes, Thyme
2010 Aonair Wine Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
2009 Vineyard 7&8 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon
Warm Chocolate Cake
Carmel Sauce
2010 Justin Obtuse
What can I say, after a meal like this, the bus ride back to
Silverado was entertaining. Everyone busted out singing to
old rock and roll projected over the bus radio. When we
got back to Silverado, we all crashed the outdoor porch
continuing with the libations. Suffice to say, I will finish
this up with an old Las Vegas saying, “What happens in
Napa, stays in Napa.” In closing, my impressions of the
trip overall is that the California wine industry as improved dramatically over the last 10 years. My experience
at Trefethen could be said about every winery we visited.
A big thanks to Eric Gregory, CCM, and Matt Oggero,
CCM, for doing a masterful job of putting together a great
educational time had by all.
Day Six – October 6, 2012
Nancy Slatin, CCM, Valley Lo Club, Glenview, IL
Alan Slatin, CCM, Exmoor Country Club,
Highland Park, IL
Our bus departed at 8:40 a.m. from Silverado Resort for
Domaine Carneros. Ninety percent of their wine is made
in their vineyard and Taittinger is their owner. Two thirds
of production is sparkling. All wines are estate grown, certified organic. The winery was built in 1988. Pinot Noir
and Chardonnay grapes are grown. Production is 80,000
cases of vintage and non-vintage sparkling wines. They
use the first pressing and 80 percent of their juice is used.
The other 20 percent is sold to other winemakers. For their
Carneros sparkling wine, 20 percent of the juice is vintage. We then tasted the Brut base wine from 2008, the
Brut Cuvee from 2000, the 2008 Ultra Brut, the N.V. Brut
Rose and the 2006 Le Reve Blanc de Blanc. The sparkling
wines were delicious.
We met Larry and Chris Hyde from the acclaimed Hyde
Vineyards. In 1979, Larry Hyde planted his vineyard.
Chris Hyde, his son, now owns and manages the vineyard.
Hyde sells fruit to 36 to 37 wineries both small and large.
Vines range in age up to thirty years. Older vines produce
smaller berries, and more complex fruit. More richness is
due to hang time on older vines, thus less productive than
younger vines. It was interesting to hear how Larry Hyde
described the integrated pest management techniques he
uses. He plants specific plant material in select vineyard
rows and turnarounds to attract “good pests that eat the
bad pests.” He also mentioned how current vineyard
planting is more on the diagonal instead of north to south.
We tasted Hyde Vineyard Designate Chardonnays from
DuMol, Patz and Hall, David Ramey, Merryvale Vineyards
and a delicious 2010 Pinot Noir from Patz & Hall, which
they considered their best to date. What was so impressive
about this visit was the respect and admiration these vintners had for grapes grown at Hyde. They again reiterated
that the winemaking process is all about what happens in
the vineyard. “It is best to let the fruit, site and vintage
speak.” We enjoyed our wines along with a box lunch on
the deck while visiting with the winemakers.
We then met Bruce Cakebread of Cakebread Cellars who
gave us a tour of the vineyards and their production facility. Their original 20 acres were between Oakville and
Rutherford. There have been three winemakers in 27
years. Presently, they sell 175,000 cases on 510 acres. We
viewed a Geneva Double Trellis curtain for growing Sauvignon Blanc. This horizontal structure for growing vines results in more scattered sunlight which does not burn the
grapes. The Sauvignon Blanc grapes were picked in midAugust. We then enjoyed a wine and food pairing with
Culinary Director, Brian Streeter. The lightest wine was a
2011 Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc; its bright acidity stimulated the palate and they feel it is great way to start a
meal. It was paired with Michael Weiss’ Gravlax. We
moved onto a 2010 Carneros Chardonnay Reserve which
was paired with bruschetta with gourmet mushrooms and
Bellwether Farms sheep’s milk ricotta. The sheep’s milk is
richer with more fat than cows’ milk so it was an excellent
pairing with the creamy Chardonnay. Next was a 2007
Prior to our visit to Continuum, on the bus, each group
of three spoke about their unique “Down and Dirty in
the Vineyard” experience. Everyone had an incredible
morning getting to know these dedicated farmers and
winemakers.
Our next stop was the 360° view atop Pritchard Hill with
Tim Mondavi, his son Dante and Stu Harrison. We were
greeted with a 2011 Chappelet Chenin Blanc (a vineyard
neighbor on PH) while Tim Mondavi shared his family’s
history, renderings of their new winery and a discussion
of their family wine, Continuum. His father started Robert
Peter tasting to see if the Hyde Vineyard Syrah is ready to
be picked.
The Estate at Domaine Carneros
Carneros Pinot Noir aged 15 months in French oak barrels
paired with chicken meatballs with green olives and
sherry. The tomato sauce highlighted the bright red fruit
notes of the wine. And, finally, we tasted the 2009 Napa
Valley Dancing Bear Ranch Cabernet. It is grown on a
hill-side site on which water drains more, resulting in
smaller berries, more intense fruit and more skin contact
with fruit. We learned that the bears love the merlot
grapes on Howell Mountain, thus the name, Dancing
Bears Merlot. Bruce shared the story about efforts to scare
the bears off: loud music and lights. As a result, they ate
more grapes. The Cabernet was paired with a new potato
stuffed with smoked venison sausage and Carmody
cheese. The venison was sourced from Broken Arrow
Ranch in Ingram, TX. Carmody is a semi soft cow’s milk
cheese from Bellwether Farms, a family owned creamery
in Sonoma, which was a favorite amongst many of the
vintners we encountered this week.
13
double production in the coming years. The Mondavis
were very generous with their time and posed with many
of us for photographs.
Prior to dinner, we met Alan Peirson on the Veranda at
Silverado and tasted his artisanal Sauvignon Blanc,
Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
Continuum Estate atop Pritchard Hill
Mondavi in 1966. Tim Mondavi began Continuum when
he was 53, the same age his father was when he started
his winery. Tim worked for his father part-time in 1966
and full-time beginning in 1974. He was a winemaker at
Mondavi for 30 years. He explained how their family
ceased to be associated with their namesake winery in
2004. They decided to start Continuum, producing only
one wine for clarity of focus, at the highest level. They
have 173 acres with 63 acres of vines. The highest vineyard on Pritchard Hill has westerly and southerly facing
exposures. At 1,300-1,600 feet elevation, the climate is
more moderate and the vines love it. The roots are 3’ to 5’
deep. The age of the vines are 16 to 21 years old and are
in their prime. Tim Mondavi shared, “Vines, Wines and
People. The good get better with time.” Following a discussion about Mondavi’s sale to Constellation and their
disassociation with the winery, Dante Mondavi stated:
“The fine wine business is not measured in quarters but in
generations.”
14
Tim shared his plans for the new winery building. Oak
and cement fermenters would be used but no stainless. He
felt that stainless led to clean yet soulless wines. Oak has
different thermal quality resulting in deeper, richer more
complex wines. The cement maintains the minerality of
the fruit. The year 2013 is the 100th Anniversary of his father’s birth and his new winery will be up and running.
They have now had six releases. We drank the delicious,
complex 2009 Continuum with cheeses, olives, almonds,
bread and 2010 Continuum Estate olive oil. They are now
producing 2,500 cases of Continuum. They will grow to
Our evening concluded at Far Niete, which translates to
‘Doing Nothing’ in Italian. The tour began at the carriage
house, a large, opulent garage housing twelve cars, a
boat, racing car and various other memorabilia. We
tasted pizzas baked in their wood fire oven while we
mingled and enjoyed all Gil Nickel’s toys. Our host,
Hillary McGonigle, led us through the amazing 40,000
square foot cave, the acoustical library room and showed
us the Dolce cave. Through all the tours we had taken, we
had not seen a double wooden element on the exterior of
the barrel, designed to alert the winemaker to insect blight
in the wood. We sat down to a delicious, beautifully presented dinner.
Day 7 – October 7, 2012
Bob Crissman, CCM, Kensington Golf & Country Club,
Naples, FL
Whew! What a week we’ve had and we’re not quite
done! Our final morning together was spent on a threehour bicycle tour of two wineries close (thank God!) to
The nectar of the Gods found in this cave.
the Silverado Resort. Luna Vineyards was our first stop and
very welcomed for the novice peddlers among us. We
tasted a wonderful selection of wines from their portfolio
including Pinot Grigio, Sangiovese, and Canto, a very
unique Tuscan styled blend.
From there, we peddled up yet another hill, almost losing
a couple of us, caught our breath as we coasted down the
other side and then made the final push for the aptly
named William Hill Estate. Did I say hill?! We were graciously greeted with much needed water (and probably a
few chuckles) before settling in to a special late morning
buffet of rustic country-style culinary treats including the
most wonderful lamb sliders you could imagine! The food
was accompanied by several of Wm. Hill’s wines including the labels of Gallo Signature series and Louis M. Martini. The wines were truly delicious and with such a
beautiful setting. We felt like royalty as our tour was coming to an end.
After a thorough tour of the sizable winery, including
viewing some very innovative equipment, we boarded our
saddles and made our way DOWN the hill and coasted
into the resort, with very little time for goodbyes and packing. I’m sure I can speak for the group that our leaders,
Eric Gregory, CCM, and Matt Oggero, CCM, deserve a
special ovation for arranging a tour that we will cherish
forever. Kudos also to Marisa Reilly, for all the hard work
and organization on behalf of CMAA and the IWS.
Until next time, raise your glasses high! Cheers!
The Birminghams pose with Tim, Dante and Stu from
Continuum Estate.
The gang is all here.
15
© Bruce Mathews
S ociety Happenings
Don’t Forget to RSVP for the Annual Wine Society Business Meeting and
Education Session
The Annual Wine Society Business Meeting and Education
Session will be held during the 86th World Conference and
Club Business Expo on Sunday, February 10, from 1:00
p.m. to 3:30 p.m. at the San Diego Marriott Marquis &
Marina, Marina F, Level Three, South Tower.
16
The business portion of this event will include the election
of the Wine Society Board of Managers as well as the announcement and recognition of the Wine Society Chapter
of the Year, Wine Program Awards, the Warren L. Arseneaux Honorary Scholarship and the annual membership
recruitment awards. It will also include the perennial favorite – the annual Wine Test.
Following the business portion of the event, Wine Society
members will have the opportunity to participate in an educational session and wine tasting presented by Cameron
Hughes of Cameron Hughes Wine.
As in years past, the Wine Society requests that all
members RSVP for this meeting so that appropriate
accommodations can be made for all who wish to attend.
Reservations will be forfeited ten minutes after the start of
the session. Attendees who do not RSVP will be admitted
on a space available basis ten minutes after the start of the
session. Members who wish to participate in only the
Business Meeting should use the chairs available at the
rear of the room.
To RSVP, please contact Christine Kolberg at
[email protected] or (703) 739-9500.
S ociety Happenings
Membership Competition Update
HAPPY ANNIVERSARY! 2012 is the 25th year in the history of the CMAA International Wine Society. Our anniversary celebration began at our annual wine dinner at New
Orleans Country Club in February and will conclude with
the Silver Anniversary Wine Dinner at the Marine Room in
La Jolla, CA, at the San Diego 86th World Conference in
February 2013.
To spark this celebration, the Board of Managers has
established an initiative to grow the Society membership
by 25 percent, near our benchmark of 600 members. To
achieve this, we are soliciting your support of our “25 for
25” Membership Campaign. We have reduced the
administrative fee that is assessed to each new member
from $100 to $25 in recognition of our anniversary. Annual dues remain modest at $125 (or $95 for additional
members from the same club) for all of these marvelous
benefits:
• Annual subscription to the Wine Enthusiast;
• Timely and informative articles in the IWS quarterly,
The Grapevine;
• Complimentary copy of Hugh Johnson’s Pocket
Encyclopedia of Wine; and
•
An array of Professional Development opportunities,
including national and international wine workshops,
the Annual Business Meeting education, Pre-Conference wine workshops and the Annual Wine Dinner.
We need the assistance of every IWS Chapter Member toward accomplishing our lofty goal. We asked the IWS
Chapter Representative to grow the IWS membership
within their Chapter by 25 percent (and a minimum of
three members).
The “25 for 25” Membership Campaign will continue
through the 86th World Conference and Club Business
Expo. Stop by the International Wine Society Booth near
Registration outside of the Marina Ballroom at the San
Diego Marriott Marquis & Marina to sign up your friends.
All members, including new ones, who are current on
their IWS dues will receive a bottle of our Anniversary
Cuvee.
On the next page, you can see how your chapter is doing.
Congratulations to the bolded chapters who have already
met their goals!
17
Membership Competition Update Totals
Chapter Name
18
New Members as of 1/1/13
Members Needed to Reach Goal
Alabama Chapter
2
1
Arkansas Razorback Chapter
2
1
Carolinas Chapter
1
5
Central Pennsylvania Chapter
0
3
City of New York Chapter
2
1
Connecticut Chapter
0
3
Detroit Chapter
1
2
Florida Chapter
1
6
Georgia Chapter
1
2
Golden State Chapter
5
10
Greater Baltimore Chapter
3
0
Greater Chicago Chapter
3
0
Greater Cleveland
0
3
Greater Southwest Chapter
0
3
Illini Chapter
0
3
Inland Empire Chapter
0
3
Iowa Tall Corn Chapter
0
3
Metropolitan Chapter
2
6
Michigan Chapter
0
3
Mid-America Chapter
0
3
Mile High Chapter
1
2
National Capital Chapter
6
0
New England Chapter
9
-3
New Jersey Chapter
3
3
New York State Chapter
1
2
Oklahoma-Kansas Chapter
3
0
Paradise of the Pacific Chapter
0
3
Philadelphia & Vicinity Chapter
7
-4
Pittsburgh Chapter
1
2
St. Louis Chapter
0
3
Texas Lone Star Chapter
2
7
Upper Midwest Chapter
1
2
Virginias Chapter
0
3
Volunteer Chapter
1
2
Wisconsin Badger
3
0
New Members During This Campaign
62
86
S ociety Happenings
Auction Hours
Sunday, February 10, 2013
6:30 a.m. – 6:30 p.m. – Silent Auction
5:00 p.m. – 6:45 p.m. – Auction Finale
© Bruce Mathews
Saturday, February 9, 2013
7:00 a.m. – 6:45 p.m. – Silent Auction
7:00 p.m. – 7:30 p.m. – Live Auction
Ready, Set, Start the Bidding...
This year you will get the opportunity to attend the International Wine Society Auction Finale. Come celebrate the
International Wine Society's 25th Anniversary at the Auction Finale. Special lots will be open for bid only during
the last two hours of the Auction. We will also have live
music, cheese and wine from Freemark Abbey. This year’s
finale will take place on Sunday, February 10, at 5:00 p.m.
Don’t forget to bring a friend to join for just a $25 administrative fee (plus the cost of annual dues), in honor of celebrating 25 years.
These auctions, of course, cannot be a success without the
support of CMAA members. We look forward to your participation in these exciting events.
There is still time to donate to the auction. Help your
chapter win one of the prized Bucky Awards which includes plenty of bragging rights. There are now two traveling Bucky Trophies, the Per Capita Bucky and the Overall
Bucky. The Per Capita Bucky will be given to the chapter
with the highest average donation amount per chapter
member and the Overall Bucky will be given to the chapter that donates the most wine by wholesale value to the
auctions.
The 2013 Wine Auctions will be held in the San Diego
Marriott Ballroom, Lobby Level, North Tower. For more
information on how to donate, please refer to the Annual
Wine Auction’s website (www.cmaa.org/WineAuction.aspx)
or contact Christine Kolberg at [email protected]
or (703) 739-9500.
The Wine Society's Silent and Live Auctions are an annual
event to benefit The Club Foundation. These auctions, held
at the World Conference and Club Business Expo, have
been successful, lively and lucrative in the past and your
donations can ensure that 2013 is the best year ever. The
auctions are a fun way to raise money for a worthwhile
venture – your industry's future. The Wine Society donates
the proceeds from the auctions to The Club Foundation,
which in turn allocates funds to educational programs for
club managers.
19
© Bruce Mathews
S ociety Happenings
Volunteers Needed to Assist With the International Wine Society Auctions!
Who: All Wine Society members going to San Diego for
CMAA’s 86th World Conference and Club Business Expo During the Auction Finale:
Sunday February 10
5:00 p.m. – 6:45 p.m.
What: Volunteer to help set up and work the International
Wine Society Silent and Live Auctions – it’s a lot of fun! During the Auction Closing:
Sunday February 10
7:00 p.m. – 9:00 p.m.
Where: San Diego Marriott Marquis & Marina
Auction Shipping, Packing and Wrap Up:
Monday February 11
8:00 a.m. – 4:00 p.m.
When: To set up the Auction, during the Live Auction, during the Silent Auction closing and after the Silent Auction
closes. Please volunteer for at least 30 minutes. Vol. 25 No. 4 • Winter 2012
Auction Set Up:
Friday, February 8
20
7:00 a.m. – 3:00 p.m.
During the Silent Auction:
Saturday, February 9
7:00 a.m. – 6:30 p.m.
Sunday, February 10
6:30 a.m. – 6:30 p.m.
During the Live Auction:
Saturday February 9
7:00 p.m. – 7:30 p.m.
Why: To meet club managers, and help with an event that
raises money for CMAA education! Please e-mail Christine Kolberg at [email protected]
with the date and time you would like to volunteer or with
any questions. © Thinkstock
S ociety Happenings
Member:
Club:
Recruited by:
Dianne Anthony
Blackhawk Country Club
Paul F. Anthony, CCM, CCE
Eric Bartlebaugh
Gaillardia Country Club
Christopher Watkins
Daniel Caballero
Chevy Chase Club
Greg C. Sheara, CCM
Roderick Cabasal
Moraga Country Club
Frank Melon, CCM
Mark W. Condon
Red Rocks Country Club
Troy W. Sprister
Brad Cornwall
Black Rock Country Club
J. Brent Tartamella, CCM, CCE
James T. Carnaham III
Whitemarsh Valley Country Club
Troy Goldberg
Fairmount Country Club
Paul Wawrynek
John Hardin
Country Club of Little Rock
Blaine A. Burgess, CCM
Brian T. Kearns
Country Club of Little Rock
Blaine A. Burgess, CCM
Thomas Maliszko
West Bend Country Club
Timothy T. Stein
Michael Nadeau
Palm Beach Yacht Club
John Ofrecio
Chevy Chase Club
Greg C. Sheara, CCM
Anthony C. Passaretti, CCM
Annisquam Yacht Club
Jeff S. Isbell, CCM
Meridith Picarelli
Chevy Chase Club
Greg C. Sheara, CCM
Joseph Rathkamp, CCM
Oconomowoc Golf Club
Paul F. Anthony, CCM, CCE
Carrie Scott
Lakewood Country Club
Eric J. Dietz, CCM
Meredith Waites
Boston College Club
Jeff S. Isbell, CCM
Brett Wischow
Chevy Chase Club
Greg C. Sheara, CCM
Bethany Wood
Chevy Chase Club
Greg C. Sheara, CCM
The International Wine Society Welcomes Its New Members
21
Wine Society Webinar
A Taste of the Temecula Valley
Wine Country
Contact: Kathi Driggs/CMAA
7
Pre-Conference Wine and
Food Workshop: A Taste of the
Temecula Valley Wine Country
San Diego, CA
2
February
9
22
2013 Silent Auction
San Diego, CA
7:00 a.m. – 6:45 p.m.
Contact: Christine Kolberg/CMAA
2013 Live Auction
San Diego, CA
7:00 p.m. – 7:30 p.m.
10
2013 Silent Auction
San Diego, CA
6:30 a.m. – 6:30 p.m.
2013 Wine Society Annual
Business Meeting
San Diego, CA
1:00 p.m. – 3:00 p.m.
2013 Auction Finale
San Diego, CA
5:00 p.m. – 6:45 p.m.
10
February
23
1
January
S ociety Happenings
Wine Society Dinner
The Marine Room, La Jolla
Beach & Tennis Club
La Jolla, CA
7:00 p.m.
Questions? Contact Us!
CMAA International Wine Society
1733 King Street
Alexandria, VA 22314
(703) 739-9500
[email protected]
www.cmaa.org/winesoc
T he Spotlight On
It was déjà vu all over again, as they say. This time we
were smart enough to stay ON the Peninsula, extending
our envelope. Grab a glass of wine and sit back for a
pretty good ride. Here we go.
First, a little background. The last trip for the Michigan and
Detroit club managers to ‘Up North’ wine country was to
the Leelanau side of the Bay. Anyone from Michigan will
show you their pinky finger on the palm side of their right
hand as a locator for this absolutely beautiful piece of
land. Michigan's state motto is: “Si quaeris peninsulam
amoenam, circumspice” which is Latin for “If you seek a
pleasant peninsula, look about you.” Its obvious reference
is to the entire state, but two of Michigan’s four AVAs are
in this pinky finger, each a peninsula of their own. The
Old Mission Peninsula (OMP) extends northward from Traverse City and divides the Grand Traverse Bay (the space
between the pinky and third finger) into East and West
Arms. At 19 miles long and three miles wide, its land mass
of 19,000 acres is the same as the Carmel Valley AVA and
slightly less than Chalk Hill. Wine growing, like many
other businesses, is all about location. The OMP sits on
the 45th Parallel (sound familiar?). The surrounding waters
of both East and West Grand Traverse Bay contribute even
further to a microclimate that is conducive to growing a
wide range of produce (Traverse City is the Cherry Capital
of the world). This range includes several familiar vitis
vinifera varietals – Riesling, Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer,
the family of Pinots, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. The prevailing winds that travel across the surrounding Bay waters
protect the vineyards from early frosts in the spring and
fall, and keep the vineyards cooler in the spring, preventing the early budding of the grape blossoms. In essence,
the same “Lake Effect” that dumps immeasurable amounts
of snow on the cities that surround the Great Lakes, also
extends an otherwise short growing season in the adjacent
vineyards.
Winemaking has a storied history in this state (Fennville
was the third AVA added behind Augusta, MO, and Napa
Valley, CA) that is largely overshadowed by their early devotion to sweet wines. In the 1980s, the Michigan wine
industry saw growth throughout the state as several American Viticultural Areas, including Fennville, Lake Michigan
Spotlight on The Old Mission Peninsula: An ‘Up North’ Excursion
Joseph F. Basso, MCM, CCE, Birmingham Country Club, Birmingham, MI
23
Shore and the nearby Leelanau Peninsula, were approved.
The Old Mission Peninsula received its AVA designation
on June 8, 1987. The leading force behind AVA recognition came from Edward O’Keefe, whose Chateau Grand
Traverse (CGT) was the peninsula’s only commercial winery at the time.
There’s your history lesson and background. Back to the
part where we were about to take over two chateaux for
the weekend. Beckie and I arrive first at Chateau Grand
Traverse to ensure the smooth arrival of the rest of the
hunting party. We are treated to a conversation with Ed
O’Keefe, the proprietor, winemaker and the driving force
that put Michigan winemaking on the map. He heads off
to an appointment, and we head to the apartment at
Chateau Chantal that would serve as the HQ (Hospitality
Quarters) for our three day venture. As managers and
spouses begin to roll in, out comes the 2007 Bel Lago
Tempesta (actually from the Leelanau Peninsula). As our
numbers grow, we head over to Chateau Grand Traverse to
take over that property for the night. With everyone settling into their rooms, corks are popping (shame!) all
through the house. Chateau Grand Traverse makes several
stellar versions of Riesling, including their Whole Cluster.
Needless to say, we are sampling several. As the time arrives for our visit to the tasting room across the way, we
head out on a tour of the winery and its winemaking facilities. During our rounds, we learn a little history of the
winery and more details on the microclimate noted above
that make this such a great place to grow wine grapes. We
learn that their whole cluster Riesling is defined by the dif-
24
ference in the pressing process, in that the entire cluster of
grapes is put into the presser, and the grapes are crushed
with the stems.
We return to the dining room of the chateau for our private tasting. John, our wine barista, takes us through close
to fifteen of their premier wines that include their family of
Rieslings, select and reserve Pinot Noir and Gamay Noir
(which they do quite well) and Cherry Reserve Port – a
pleasant surprise. Their “Ship of Fools” is a personal favorite, not only because I love the name, but the wine itself is a blend of all three Pinots into a stunningly crisp dry
white wine with breadth and balance. But their 2011
“Laika” Gruener Veltliner is by far the group’s hit of the
day. The first to attempt growing Gruener in the state, this
third vintage comes close to providing the missing link between Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc. Gruener is the premier grape variety of Austria, but CGT is hoping on a
manifestation that will define a new generation of Northern Michigan wines.
We climb aboard the Celtic Shuttle to take us to what
proves to be one of the more memorable experiences on
our trip. We are headed to Bowers Harbor Vineyards for
“Dining in the Vines.” For the past three seasons, BHV has
partnered with The Boathouse restaurant to bring al fresco
dining to the peninsula in the most unique form possible –
in the vineyards. In those three seasons, they have never
had to move indoors as a result of the weather. As I firmly
believe that Murphy was a club manager, his law prevails
and we are crammed into the tasting room and warehouse
due to the on-and-off-drizzle we have had all day and the
threat of impending doom. All is not lost.
As we settle in for the wonderful meal that is to follow,
Chef Eric Nittolo comes to the table with an oversized
onion and the largest tomato I have ever seen – proof positive of the benefits of the movement underway on the
Peninsula toward totally sustainable farming. Spencer
stops by with the recent release of their Pinot Noir Reserve, another treat that we do not expect. As the staff begins to serve, a downpour erupts just beyond the shelter of
the tasting room perimeter, eliciting a round of applause
from the 70-some dinner guests.
The first course of seafood chowder pairs with Unwooded
Chardonnay. Other than the scallops and the lemon, the
ingredients in the chowder are all locally grown and harvested (including the salmon), a common theme throughout the dinner. The pan seared scallops in lobster
mushroom cream sauce and the BHV Pinot Grigio would
have been the best pairing of the evening, were it not for
the 12 ounces of beef tenderloin from Gallagher Farms
and the equally massive lobster tail (sorry, lobster is one of
the few things we don’t have in the Mitten) that came
alongside some more 2896. The apple cobbler and Appletage Port brought this unbelievable evening to a close. We
make additional wine purchases for both dinner and cellars, and after settling up in the warehouse, we head back
to Chateau Grand Traverse after a marvelously enchanting
evening.
Once back at our digs, I head back to Bowers Harbor in
an attempt to straighten out a credit card issue that at first
appears to not involve any of us – but eventually involves
several. Once back at CGT, we help some other guests
find their way to Mr. O’Keefe’s private residence, and the
other valiant wine warriors begin to fall. Beckie and I head
back to Chateau Chantal and our first night is behind us.
The Bassos rise early and return to CGT to join the others
in the Chateau’s breakfast room. After taking in a hearty
breakfast, part of the mission party pack up to move to
Chateau Chantal. Our Celtic Shuttle arrives again, this
time to take us to the edge of the Peninsula and the northernmost winery of 2Lads. After a quick stop at Bowers
Harbor to resolve the credit card issue we helped create
the night before, we arrive to spectacular views of both
Bays from atop the knoll that the contemporary tasting
room and surrounding vineyards straddle.
After a big bear hug (it’s a Michigan thing) with proprietor,
winemaker and friend, Spencer Stegenga, Beckie wants to
see Brix, the larger-than-life Saint Bernard that is the winery dog for this sustainable boutique vineyard. Spencer
drags a few of us back to the house where Brix’ massive
and jovial self is contained to prevent him from overwhelming the guests for the evening. We are rewarded
with a visit to the basement wine room houses a small inventory of the library of vintages of the 2896 Langley – a
blend of Merlot and Cab Franc with a splash of Cabernet
Sauvignon all from their Langley Vineyard. Almost from
the first vintage in 2001, this wine has proven to be one of
the most sought after reds in Northern Michigan. It has an
intense aroma of blackberry and plum, augmented by flavors of dark cherry and clove. Spencer opens a 2003 and
a 2005, and we see just how well these wines age. What’s
left of each will return to our tables for tonight’s dinner.
After spending some time catching up, we return to the
tasting room so Spencer can greet the other guests, and
we grab a glass of, ironically, the 2896 Brut Rosé.
25
Caryn Chachulski, the winery’s educator, treats us to a
glass pour of our choice for the tour that takes us through
the surrounding vineyards. We hear the air cannon in the
background that, along with the very expensive netting
that drapes the vines and the electric fence, deters birds,
deer and other local wildlife from poaching the grapes.
The wind is just brisk enough this morning that it chills all
but the hearty, so we cut short our time in the vineyards.
Harvest is just days away as the weather has finally broken, so we get an opportunity to see the facilities in their
pre-game warm up. We learn from Caryn that one of the
things that sets 2Lads apart from other wineries in Michigan is that they are the first to use the gravity flow process
to transfer wine. A more natural way to move the juice
through the winemaking process, it protects grapes and
their byproduct from “bruising,” and is more traditional
and historical. They have also ventured into the “one night
stand” arena, producing a Rosé for the first time. While
the Rosé proves to be worthy of a segue into any romantic
interlude, the reference is to the 24 to 48 hours that the
wine spends on the skins during the winemaking process.
After lunch, we head back to CGT. Some will be relocating to Chateau Chantal, and others will remain here for at
least some portion of their remaining stay. All of us head
to Chantal, as we have time for a visit to their tasting room
before our second of two welcome receptions. The western vistas from the tasting room patio are fantastic. Locals
or down-staters, these views are never taken for granted.
We take them in as our time allows before heading out to
the next stop on our trek through Old Mission – Brys Estates.
We conclude our tour of 2Lads where we began – in the
tasting room – where we explore their winemaking style
and the quality red and white wines this venture produces. The seven wines from the award-winning portfolio
of South African winemaker Cornel Olivier are expressive
in characteristic and style of their contemporary approach.
Purchases of favorites are made and we load the back of
the shuttle with enough cases of wine to heave the rear
axle. We are off to the Boathouse for more of Chef Eric
Nittolo’s cuisine and lunch by the West Bay. Understand-
ably, no one reaches for the wine list, but instead opt for
Bloody Marys and a variety of eye-openers and tonics.
Cleansing your palate with an intermezzo of rum is much
more interesting than any other form of ice.
While the entire trip is filled with unique and memorable
experiences, we are in for a real treat. Coenraad Stassen,
the estate manager and vintner from South Africa, is busy
with preparation for harvest. Walt Brys, owner and proprietor, has taken time from his schedule to show us around
his wonderful estate. We learn that Brys now has a guest
house (a factoid not lost on Beckie and I as we make note
of it for a future trip) and see and hear more of the same
deterrents to some of the locals invading the vineyards.
Walt gives us a history lesson on Brys Estates and their
winemaking philosophy. Everything they do is estate
grown, and they do it well. Their Artisan series of wines
have an Old World distinction to them. We circle around
to the winemaking facilities and see pressers and destemmers ready to go to work in the coming days. Some of the
pinot grigio has already been harvested and is being made
in the Italian style of stainless steel tank fermentation,
which will result in a crisp and dry Pinot Gris.
26
We have created a minor problem for them, as my math
skills have failed me yet again and there are more of us
than what I led the staff at Brys to believe – not to worry.
Judy Shaughnessey, the tasting room manager, is all over it
and we soon have extended the Barrel Room Table to accommodate the entire party – and a party it would be.
Linda takes us through most of Brys’ portfolio, to our
pleasant surprise. She is not only a congenial host but a
great educator. She instructs us on the finer points of tasting. Her direction is to taste a wine in three tastes to better
determine a wine’s components. The first taste starts your
palate working, the second neutralizes it and the third
taste allows you to differentiate the flavors in the wine. To
truly capture the aromatics, one should fill to the widest
part of the glass. We enjoy their full catalogue, from Artisan Cab Franc to a blend of two members of the pinot
family – a pinot gris, blush in appearance, that is a regular
occupant of our personal cellar.
We conclude a fabulous tasting and education session and
load the shuttle, the wheel well now riding just barely
above the rear tires. It is now 6:30 p.m., and we are due at
the Mission Table for a leisurely dinner. We are a little
wined and worn, so we cancel our reservation and choose
pizza from the Peninsula Deli. Back at Chantal, where it is
now after hours, we have full run of the tasting room. We
take full advantage of this. Anything that is open is consumable (Chateau rules) and that, of course, happens. It is
a good precursor to tomorrow morning’s events here at
Chantal that involve a tapas tasting through the winery
with Brian Hosmer, their maverick winemaker. We are
back on the tasting room’s patio, taking in the sky and
stars, which always seem brighter when away from the
lights of the city – absolutely breathtaking.
Back in HQ, we begin a few games of Left-Right-Center, a
Michigan club managers’ tradition whenever we are all together. We have picked up a new friend along the way.
She is on sabbatical from life in Ohio this weekend, on a
solo adventure to the Michigan wine country she has
heard so much about. She wins a game, as do a couple of
newbies to our adventures. It is late (or early, none of us
are certain) and we are loud. The bus is leaving for
Chateau Grand Traverse. We retreat to quarters to rejuvenate for our last day, and it will prove to be a long, but
worthwhile one.
We rise to a hearty buffet breakfast in the Chateau’s Hospitality Room. After touring the gift shop, we are back to
begin our Tapas Tour and Tasting. We start with a glass of
Celebrate – the Chantal sparkler that we managed to introduce ourselves to in our after hour’s takeover of the tasting
room. We get a history lesson on the winery and the
peninsula from Tom, who found his second career with
the winery eight years ago. That seems to be the norm
around here; lots of second careers.
The winery is a European style chateau on a 64-acre
estate. Not far from 2Lads, it sits atop one of the highest
27
points on the Old Mission Peninsula and has stunning
views of both East and West arms of Grand Traverse Bay.
The owners are a former Roman Catholic Priest and Felician Sister (proof in the allure of wine?). Chantal purchased
a vineyard in Argentina in 2003 to be able to offer a bold
red wine to their lineup. The South American vineyard
grows Malbec and Bonarda.
We head for the cellar where we meet Brian Hosmer, who
makes himself available to us – a rare occurrence for the
winery and winemaker. We begin our trek through the
inner workings of the largest winery on Old Mission. Brian
is very engaging. As we move through the massive facilities, we encounter different stations along the way,
stocked with different tapas elegantly paired with the
Chateau’s deep portfolio of wines. Brian and his staff use
28
more than eighty different varieties of yeast in their fermentation processes. Perhaps the best anecdote of the day
came in answer to a query regarding the damage to a particular stainless steel tank. It seems that Robert Begin, the
winery’s owner was in the process of moving the tank
from one part of the property to another, against the advice and better judgment of his staff, and without properly
securing it to the forklift. The hill to the winemaking facilities has a rather steep grade to it, and Mr. Begin was unable to successfully negotiate the road, losing the tank.
And yes, it was laden full of a particular variety and vintage. Like a glass of spilt milk, the wine ran down the
road, coating everything in its path. Today, the road carries
the apt moniker “Rue de Vin,” literally The Road of Wine.
With each experience on this foray better than the last, we
are overwhelmed and overjoyed by our Chantal experience. We aren’t quite sure what to expect as we head into
Traverse City for a tasting of Michigan wines against their
Old World varietal ancestors. The designated driver for our
trip was none other than the proprietor of Celtic Tours
himself, John O’Brien. Seemingly straight off the boat,
John treats us to traditional Irish hospitality that includes a
number of off color jokes in his thick Celtic accent and a
bottle of homemade brandy that we slipped into our baggage. We rehydrated and shared deli sandwiches and
laughs on the ride, hoping to rejuvenate ourselves once
again for the afternoon that is to come.
Stella Trattoria is our destination, located in the The Village
in Grand Traverse Commons on the western edge of the
city. The Village and the Commons are an effort to redevelop the former Traverse City State Hospital, also known
as the Northern Michigan Asylum. This redevelopment is
currently the largest of its kind in the country. The future of
the majority of the historically significant buildings of the
sprawling former mental institution (go figure), along with
much of the surrounding park-like land, is now secure,
thanks to the community efforts of the Committee to Preserve Building 50, the preservation work of the Minervini
Group.
and Gewurztraminer from Northern Michigan's finest
vineyards, they also are working with the some of the
area's most significant small vineyards, handling the
blending and storing responsibilities when these smaller
wineries are challenged by their own capacity. We are
treated to several of these stunning wines, produced in the
building that previously served as the laundry facility for
the hospital.
Our next stop on these hallowed (and some say haunted)
grounds is Left Foot Charley’s. While making their own
portfolio of wines from Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Grigio
The drive back to Chantal is a quiet one. Though there are
few takers for the tasting room, a band of us insist at keeping it attended until the wee hours of the morning. Following the next morning’s breakfast and goodbyes, the exit
from Peninsula on Tuesday proves to be as uneventful as
our stay wasn’t. Beckie and I are less than four hours away
from home, and five hours away from a local release party
with Carlo Mondavi for the latest vintage of Continuum.
With our wine meters pegged, we can’t help but ask ourselves if there is there such a thing as too much wine? We
shall see.
On to the next adventure.
Amanda Danielson, who is likely to be Michigan’s fourth
master sommelier, is the owner of Stella and our host and
educator for the day. Once in the makeshift classroom,
Amanda retraces the vinis vinifera varietals in the state
back to their Old World roots in a guided, comparative
tasting of our peninsulas’ varietals and their ancestral
homes. We match 10 wines, two at a time. Which one is
Old World and which one is local? Each one is a tough
call, a tribute to how far winemaking in this state has
come. None of us is consistently able to identify old versus new.
We return to Stella Trattoria for a marvelous “Pure Michigan” wine dinner that we are just not able to fully appreciate or enjoy. The food is exquisitely stellar and the wines
equally so, fully accenting the flavor components of the
cuisine. Just what you would expect from a soon-to-bemaster.
29
T he Spotlight On
The Winning Bid, Awesome!
Thomas M. Czaus, CCM, Country Club of York, York, PA
30
Did you ever wonder what happens to the lucky bidder
who wins that awesome International Wine Society Live
Auction Item, The Green Valley Tour by Joy Sterling? Well,
I have to tell you it always bothered me! I heard almost
nothing about the trip until I would see it offered again at
the next year’s auction. Last year to my surprise, my wife
Rosemary encouraged me to bid on the trip. Although we
made our best attempt, the Green Valley Trip slipped out
of my grasp – or so I thought. By a strange twist of fate and
capitalizing on the friendly nature of club managers in
general, the winner Steve Matlaga, CCM, had room for
one more couple and invited Rosemary and I to join the
group.
Being the excellent planner he is, Steve worked with Joy
and her staff to find a date. So the date of July 30, 2012,
was set and now it was time for the itinerary. Of course
Joy worked her magic and setup an unbelievable tour, and
here is how it went:
Monday, July 30, 2012
Exit plane, grab rental car, stop at In and Out Burger, then
drive straight to Deloach for check-in at the Guesthouse
for a 2:30 p.m. VIP tasting… 4:00 p.m., time to relax and
get ready for the VIP tasting, tour and dinner at Iron Horse
Vineyards with the “Joy” Sterling and her parents, Audrey
and Barry. 6:00 p.m. arrived at Iron Horse and we continued to be impressed from start to finish. The views were
incredible, the facility and wines were absolutely delicious and the company of Joy, Audrey and Barry Sterling
was the best.
Tuesday, July 31, 2012
The plan for the day allowed for an enjoyable morning jog
through the vineyard. Our first tour and lunch was at Dutton Estate at 11:30 a.m. We made great friends with
Chelsea, German and Ruben. The barrel tasting was so
much fun as you can see by the picture!
Now it was off to our 3:00 p.m. tour and tasting at Freeman Vineyard and Winery with owner Akiko Freeman.
Akiko personally tasted us on all their current wines in
their cave/tasting room and we also tried a barrel or two.
Particularly impressive was when Akiko signed some of
the bottles we purchased in Japanese. We were still going
strong as we stopped at Martin Ray for a quick tasting and
more shopping in their tasting room. This was a free
Wednesday, August 1, 2012
Again great weather, the morning jog through the vineyard
was inspirational. Today we started at 10:00 a.m. with a
tour, tasting and lunch at Dutton Goldfield with Valarie,
Mitch and a surprise visit from Dan Goldfield. This was a
really fun part of the trip as all of us seemed to click. Lots
of great wine, food and conversation were had by all. But
the heck with fun, we were on a schedule! So off we went
to our next winery. At 2:00 p.m., we arrived at Marimar
Estate. Again, beautiful views and a different style of winemaking made Marimar a unique experience. We walked
up the hill to Mrs. Torres’ beautiful estate and were invited
in for a tour and pictures from the top of the vineyard with
gorgeous views. The uphill walk definitely contributed to
wanting a siesta before our next visit. With that said, our
last scheduled tour and tasting was at the Hartford Family
Winery, where Tom “the Bomb” Rozner met our group for
the tour and tasted us on all their best wines. Tom also
hosted us for dinner at a well known local favorite restaurant called “ZaZu.” Did I mention he brought along two
magnums of Hartford Vineyards wine to enjoy over a fantastic dinner? Funny how drinking wine produces some of
the greatest conversations and laughter that become lasting memories.
Returning to Deloach, there was just enough time to enjoy
a cool evening in the hot tub by the pool.
evening so our little group split up and went to dinner at
our leisure. Rosemary and I went to a little Mexican food
restaurant called “Texanita” that German recommended.
Great food and “cerveza!” As we began to finally slow
down, we returned back to the Deloach guesthouse for
some well needed sleep!
31
Thursday, August 2, 2012
Another glorious morning for a jog through the DeLoach
vineyards. This day had a bit of sadness because we would
be leaving the Green Valley and heading to the Olympic
Club in San Francisco. Well, not too much time to be sad
because we drove back via Napa, where we stopped to
visit the Black Chicken at the Robert Biale Vineyard. Dave
Pramuk, co-owner of the vineyard, greeted us and tasted
Rosemary and I on all the current Biale releases. Even better is the connection we made with the state of Pennsylvania where Dave has a relative so hence an upcoming Biale
wine dinner is being arranged at the Country Club of York
for the middle of 2013.
Friday, August 3, 2012
At this point Rosemary and I slept in while Steve and his
group went to see the redwoods. Eventually, Rosemary
and I did some sighteeing around the city and returned to
the Olympic Club to get ready for our finale dinner at the
St. Francis Yacht Club. Ron Banaszak, CCM, CCE, rolled
out the red carpet for us. As a former Host of the IWS, Ron
was kind enough to contribute dinner as part of the auction. We were joined by Eric Gregory, CCM, another IWS
Board member and his wife, Janine that led to another
great evening with awesome wine, food and friends.
Saturday, August 4, 2012
Just when you thought… just kidding it was truly time to
board the flight home.
This was the experience of a lifetime, and all from an International Wine Society Live Auction Package! I bet you
can’t wait to bid when you join us for the 25th anniversary
celebration and IWS auction in sunny and warm (over 58
degrees) San Diego, CA, where I know the excitement is
building!
See you there!
32
© Thinkstock
T he Spotlight On
Michigan’s AVAs and Wine Trails
But this is not a lesson on nomenclature. I offer the above,
taken in part from the History of Michigan American Viticultural Areas, to segue into just that – a history of Michigan’s viticultural areas.
Those of you that follow these writings know of the particular affinity I have for all things wine from my home state.
In the few pages I have been allotted, let me give you a
quick history lesson on the four AVAs in Michigan, and
the seven “Wine Trails” that encompass and include most
of the states wineries.
Fennville AVA – Fennville is Michigan’s first and the
United States’ third AVA. You may recall the first being Augusta, MO, – another near and dear to me – and of
course, everyone knows the second; Napa Valley, CA. The
Fennville AVA was established in 1981. Fenn Valley Vineyards was and still is the only commercial winery located
within the AVA. The petition to designate the area as an
AVA was initiated by the Welsch family of Fenn Valley
Vineyards of Fennville. The decision to file the petition
came after a long struggle between other wineries in
Very often, American Viticultural Areas (AVAs) are confused with appellations, or, the two terms are used loosely
when referring to one or the other. An AVA is a designated
wine grape-growing region approved and established
through the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau,
formerly the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives. The geographical area was petitioned, most likely
by a vintner, for approval and is defined by specific geographical boundaries. In order for a vintner to list an AVA
on their wine label, at least 85 percent of the grapes used
to produce the wine must be grown within the geographical area, as defined by law. An appellation is a protected
name under which a wine may be labeled; a geographical
indication of where the grapes were grown. The rules that
govern appellations are dependent on the country in
which the wine was produced. These specifications can
include, but are not limited to what varieties grapes may
be grown, maximum grape yields, alcohol level and other
quality factors.
33
southwest Michigan not being able to come to an agreement on what boundaries should be established and
which wineries would be included. Fenn Valley Vineyards
needed the AVA designation because new labeling regulations at the time mandated that vintage-dated wines
needed federally-designated appellations. That rule was
since modified to allow state appellations.
34
Leelanau Peninsula AVA – Michigan’s second AVA, established in 1982, and encompasses the entire Leelanau
Peninsula (the little finger of the Mitten). The interest in
obtaining this AVA was due to federal laws stating that any
wine labeled “estate bottled” must be part of an AVA. Several of the area’s wine makers were producing estate-bottled wines and wanted to label them accordingly. The
Leelanau Peninsula AVA is the same size as the Fennville
AVA at 75,000 acres.
The waters surrounding this peninsula (Lake Michigan to
the west, and the west arm of Grand Travers Bay to the
east) contribute to a microclimate that is conducive to
growing a wide range of familiar vitis vinifera varietals –
Riesling, Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer, the family of
Pinots, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. The prevailing winds
create a “lake effect” that is known for dumping massive
amounts of snow from Chicago to Buffalo, but also pro-
© Thinkstock
The Fennville AVA consists of 75,000 acres and is located
within the Lake Michigan Shore AVA. The western boundary is the eastern shore of Lake Michigan, the northern
boundary the Kalamazoo River, the eastern boundary is
the 86°5' west longitude meridian, extending from the
Kalamazoo River to the intersection of the Middle Fork of
the Black River. The southern boundary is the Middle Fork
of the Black River. We like our AVAs in Michigan surrounded by water. Fennville’s designation is based on its
glacial outwash sandy soils and the moderating effects of
Lake Michigan. Overall, Fennville has a relatively mild
climate with less extreme seasonal temperature variations
than inland areas. During the short 160-day growing season very few days exceed 90° F. Grower’s success has
been registered with a wide range of grape varieties, including Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Gris and Seyval for
whites, and Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Chancellor and
Chambourcin for reds.
tects the vineyards from early frosts in the spring and fall,
and keep the vineyards cooler in the spring, preventing
the early budding of the grape blossoms. You have to take
the bad with the good.
Lake Michigan Shore AVA – The third AVA to be established in Michigan was the Lake Michigan Shore AVA on
The Old Mission Peninsula AVA – This appellation was established June 8, 1987. The AVA was petitioned by Edward
O’Keefe, owner of Chateau Grand Traverse, the peninsula’s only commercial winery at the time. Old Mission
Peninsula is Michigan’s smallest AVA, consisting of only
19,200 acres. The finger-like piece of land 22 miles long
and four miles wide juts out from Traverse City and splits
the Grand Traverse Bay into eastern and western arms. The
views themselves are breathtaking – of the azure water,
sandy beaches and vineyards.
The wineries of the Old Mission Peninsula – like those of
the Leelanau Peninsula – are situated along the 45th parallel; an ideal climate for growing wine grapes. Here it stays
cold longer in the spring, protecting the vineyards from
late frosts, and warmer longer in the fall when the grapes
benefit from extra weeks of ripening. The rolling terrain of
the glacially formed landscape and the Lake effect snow
(that so many of us downstate hate) prevent the cold arctic
air from lingering long enough to do any damage to the
vines. As a result of these growing conditions, these wines
stand toe-to-toe with some of the best wines of the world
from the more famous growing regions that lie along this
same global dividing line. Seven distinct wineries comprise this stunning appellation.
Three of these AVAs also have “wine trails” – planned
routes through wine country. With the highest ratio of
shoreline to land mass on any wine trail in the United
States, Leelanau’s Northern Wine Loop is a treasure trove
of harbor villages, scenic vistas and home to 10 unique
wineries. The Old Mission Peninsula is a great one as well.
Given its size, it is easy to take in all seven wineries in a
day if you plan your tour. The Lake Michigan Shore Wine
Country has been called the Napa Valley of the Midwest.
There are more than a dozen Southwest Michigan wineries and tasting rooms, each with its own style.
Lake Michigan Shore also offers the West Michigan Wine
and Beer Trail. Michigan is slowly becoming known for its
craft beer making in addition to its award-winning wines.
As noted above, the unique microclimatic conditions in
West Michigan make it the perfect place for growing
grapes, hops and all sorts of other produce. Known as the
Fruit Ridge, a group of counties within the region have become popular agritourism destinations, attracting visitors
year-round.
Michigan’s Sunrise Side has some most unique hand
crafted beers and tantalizing wines. One can sample what
the Sunrise Side has to offer on a special tour called the
Wine and Hops Trail. The Trail consists of 14 wineries and
breweries.
Michigan’s newest pioneers are the vintners of the early
21st century. Southeastern Michigan's Pioneer wine making region is a great place to spend a few hours... or a few
days. The beautiful rolling hills and many lakes are right
along the trail that offers 11 different wineries, many with
bed and breakfast accommodations on the estate.
So there you have it; a quick snapshot of the four AVAs in
Michigan, along with the other regional wine making
areas in the state. Most of the Michigan’s quality wine
grapes grow within 25 miles of Lake Michigan. With more
than 100 wineries scattered all over the state, the opportunities for wine education and enjoyment are endless. If
you ever find your way here, give Beckie and I a call.
We’ll make sure your experience here is Pure Michigan.
October 13, 1983. The petition for the Lake Michigan
Shore AVA application was actually made in 1981. The
Lake Michigan Shore Appellation is Michigan’s largest
consisting of 1,280,000 acres. The Lake Michigan Shore
viticultural area is located in the southwestern corner of
the state, in the traditional “fruit belt.” Lake Michigan
Shore AVA is home to a majority of Michigan’s vineyards
and half of the state wine grape production. Vineyards in
the region date back to 1867. The AVA boundaries include
the smaller Fennville AVA and extend as far as 45 miles inland from the lakeshore. The climate and glacial moraine
soils are relatively similar throughout and the ”lake effect”
off of Lake Michigan is certainly at work in this AVA as
well. Lake Michigan Shore AVA has a warmer growing
season, as much as two weeks longer than the Peninsulas
in Northern Michigan.
35
© Thinkstock
B y the Glass
Did You Know These Wine Facts?
36
On the average, an acre of land produces five tons of
grapes, or, in other terms, a little less than four thousand
bottles of wine. In other words, if you drank a bottle of
wine a day, it would take eleven years to consume the
output of a one acre vineyard.
One 6.4-ounce glass of typical white wine contains about
133 calories; while a glass of a typical red contains about
141 calories. In contrast, that much grape juice contains
about 131 calories. So you won’t lose much weight by
switching from wine to grape juice.
Wine grapes are the single most widely planted fruit crop.
There are 20 million acres of grapes planted worldwide,
just about enough to supply every adult living in the
United States with a bottle a day. Not that we are suggesting…
A typical grape berry is, by weight, 75 percent pulp, 20
percent and five percent seeds. Small grapes such as Pinot
Noir have a larger portion of skin to pulp.
One single variety, Airén, an undistinguished white grape,
is planted on more than one million acres in central
Spain. This acreage is approximately twice that devoted to
grape plantings in Germany, Austria and Switzerland.
The Languedoc-Roussilion region of southern France
produces more wine than does the entire United States.
When grapes ferment into wine, the most important chemical reaction is the transformation of sugar into alcohol. A
typical wine contains 86 percent water, 11.2 percent alcohol and 2.8 percent of all the other compounds that make
the wine a wine, instead of colored firewater.
Chemists have identified more than 250 compounds in
wine, making it more complex than blood serum.
Complex or not, people don’t want to wait for a wine’s
components to evolve. More than 90 percent of the
world’s wine is consumed within two years of its vintage
date. Don’t get me wrong, there is no point waiting for
most wines to evolve over the years, they won’t.
© Thinkstock
In spite of the great interest in wine storage, including a
wide variety of cellars, racks and refrigerators, it is estimated that 98 percent of all wine sold is consumed within
a single week of purchase.
Napa Valley recently surpassed Disneyland as California’s
number one tourist destination with 5.5 million visitors a
year.
While California is the American state producing by far
the most wine, all fifty states can claim at least one commercial winery.
The Hungarian Tokaji Esszencia, one of the world’s finest
dessert wines, contains up to 85 percent residual sugar.
Only a special strain of yeast is able to ferment it, ever so
slowly. One must wait decades for Tokaji Esszencia to attain five or six percent of alcohol. I am told that it is worth
the wait.
There are approximately 49 million bubbles in an average
bottle of sparkling wine, but an estimated 250 million
bubbles in a bottle of Champagne.
A one-inch cube of cork contains about 200 million fourteen-sided cells filled with air.
All these bubbles generate about 90 pounds per square
inch pressure in a bottle of Champagne, approximately
three times the pressure in your automobile tires.
Portugal is by far the main source of wine corks. At one
time, it produced thirteen billion per year.
© Thinkstock
A good sommelier won’t grimace when extracting a cork
using a waiter’s corkscrew, even though the extraction requires between 50 and 100 pounds of pulling force.
A cork tree is first harvested at about age 25 years. Subsequent harvests occur once every nine years for a total of
about fifteen harvests. Can anyone claim to taste the difference between a wine sealed with a cork from a 25 year
old tree and the same wine sealed with a cork from a 160
year old tree?
37
Italy has about 900,000 registered vineyards, and more
than a thousand grape varieties.
Only one major city in the world includes a commercially
significant wine region-Vienna, Austria whose city limits
enclose more than 1,700 acres of grapes. Nearly everyone
admits the most impressive aspect of Viennese wine is its
geographic origin, Vienna.
At 3,000 meters (9,900 feet), the Colome vineyard in Argentina is the highest in the world. In this case, the previous rule clearly does not apply; there aren’t enough days
in the year.
In contrast, in most of Europe, 1,600 feet (480 meters) is
considered the upper limit for ripening.
© Thinkstock
Grapevines don’t produce good wine grapes until they are
at least three or four years old. If properly maintained,
they may continue producing for a century. As the vine
ages, the yield tends to decrease, but the quality may improve.
As a rule of thumb, grapes grown in higher altitudes lead
to higher acidity. The temperature falls by falls 1.8ºF (1ºC)
for every 330 feet (100 meters) above sea level, which
may require an extra 10 to 15 days in the field for the
grapes to ripen.
38
A glass of wine served between 44º and 59ºF (6.6º and
15ºC) warms up a degree Fahrenheit approximately every
seven minutes until reaching room temperature. A wine
served between 39º and 44ºF (4º and 6.6ºC) gains a degree approximately every four minutes.
Experts recommend storing wine at a constant temperature of 55ºF/13ºC and humidity of 70 to 75 percent.
Even under favorable climatic conditions, up to 85 percent of a vine’s flowers die without setting, never becoming grapes. Just think what would happen if half of the
flowers set. These extra grapes would compete for the
fixed nutrients available to the given vine. The resulting
wine would be considerably diluted. In fact, producers of
fine wines often remove excess grapes to help concentrate
the power and glory of those that remain.
I dea Fair
Matching Dessert With
Wine: Chocolate and
Other Sweets
Leslie Bucher
www.Vino101.com
Unfortunately, if you drink coffee, be prepared to
shut down your palate, because you will not be able
to taste many nuances after that oily java coats your
taste buds. If you need a pick-me-up, make sure you
save your java for after you are completely done eating. “But everyone gets coffee with dessert,” you say.
Well, they are just doing what everyone else does.
Start breaking the habit today!
Remember, it is the server’s job to guide guests
through their dining experience and to maximize
their delight. This implies pairing that wonderful
chocolate cake or that luscious banana split with
something that elevates their taste, and, yes, you
guessed it: wine does a wonderful job making
everything taste better (except maybe asparagus).
The average human would never think of pairing a
gorgeous piece of chocolate cake with a wine, so
you might have to work a little bit harder for this
one. The good news is that it isn’t all that hard.
A great match for chocolate is Cabernet Sauvignon. I tend to prefer
the ones from Bordeaux as they have that beautiful earthy Bordeaux scent, which is fresh, musky and almost forest-like at times;
and that complements the sweet smell of cocoa and fudge so well.
A Cabernet from Chile will do fine just as well. Look for Colchagua
(Rapel Valley), as wines from this area can be extremely good because of the climate, sun exposure (which leads to very intense
fruit) and soil (primarily clay and a bit of volcanic ash).
For banana splits, ice creams or fruit desserts, Gewürztraminer
rules. With a firm acidic backbone to balance the sugars of the
fruit, Gewürztraminer often exudes aromas of mango, passion fruit,
lychee nuts and nectarines. Be careful, as all Gewürz are not
sweet. But we have already established that a dessert can be well
paired without a sweet wine.
As a general rule, capitalize on the flavors that a wine shows aromatically when considering how to pair it with an after-dinner
course. Then consider the wine’s acidity level and the sugar level of
the dessert as you are aiming for a match that accentuates both.
Keep in mind when acid and sugar levels are out of balance in
food and wine, it can lead to disharmony on the palate. Very sweet
desserts will make a wine seem more tannic, less sweet and more
acidic, so you must weigh the body and acidity level of a wine
when making an intelligent recommendation.
Many people stop drinking right after their main
course. Whether they are beer drinkers or wine aficionados, it seems that when they order dessert,
wine often takes a backseat to coffee, tea or
espresso. It does break my heart to see people drinking coffee while they eat, especially dessert.
© Thinkstock
Matching dessert with wine – especially wine that is
not sweet – is an important tool to have in your kit.
For a lot of us, dessert is the culmination of a great
dinner, and it's an anticipated event that deserves as
much attention as all of the preceding courses.
39
Matching Dessert With Wine: Chocolate and Other Sweets
Leslie Bucher
How to Sell It
Use the information provided above to paint a collage of
flavors and delectable pleasures for your guests. If they are
not convinced, and if they have had wine or other alcohol
with dinner (so that you know they drink), ask your bartender to pour you a small taste of the wine. One ounce
will suffice. Take this little taste to your guest(s) and tell
them that you just wanted to complement their wonderful
dessert with a match that you know works. Although they
did not get wine with dessert this time, you have already
educated them beyond their wildest dreams and more importantly, planted the seed for their next visit.
They will be impressed because of your knowledge, and
because they did not have to pay for this awesome match.
Let them know that you would love to take care of them
next time they come in, and give them a card or something with your name on it.
Think of your club and members over the long term. Next
time they come in they will have full confidence in your
abilities, and most importantly, they will recommend you
and your club to their friends; which is after all, the best
kind of advertisement you can get.
Leslie Bucher is a representative of Vino 101, which
provides online beverage training. She can be contacted
at [email protected]. Visit www.vino101.com/
cmaatrial.html to request a free trial or for more details.
Host Letter
seneaux Scholarship. We’ve also looked at providing
continuity for other initiatives and programs, how our Board
transitions, aligned ourselves with some new education
partners and developed the Friends of the Wine Society program.
40
You can assign the letter grades, but all in all your Board,
along with staff at the National office, have worked very
hard this year to improve your Wine Society Experience, and
make sure we stay relevant to you in your professional development. Collectively, there is a great group of people
working very hard for you.
I would be remiss in not reminding you to plug all the Wine
Society activities at Conference into your My Conference
Planner: the Silent and Live Auction, Annual Business Meet-
ing, our new IWS Kiosk, your bottle of the 25th Anniversary
Cuvee and, of course, our Silver Dinner at the Marine
Room. It is one of the fullest Wine Society conference calendars we’ve had in some time, and you won’t want to miss
a thing.
Sadly, this is the last time my words will fill this column, as
my year as Host draws nearer to a close. It has been an
honor to serve as your Host during 2012, an experience I
will treasure for quite some time. Thank you to the 2012
Board of Managers for all of their hard work. Thank you to
National staff – Kathi, Marisa, Melissa, Sarah and Christine –
for their support. Thanks to my wife Beckie for her support and
contribution. And lastly, thank YOU for allowing me this
privilege.
See you in San Diego in short order.
Saluté!

Winter Grapevine

Transcription

Similar documents

SAV ETHE DATE

GRANDPÈRE ZINFANDEL

Nuits-Saint-Georges les Boudots

Technical sheet

A special thanks to our generous supporters!

Harkham Wine club Membership

The Bacchananlian Society of Cincinnati

michter`s pdf file - Chatham Imports, Inc.

Easley Winery Whyte Horse Winery Peoples Winery Hopwood

WINEMAKING NOTES Our Pepperwood Grove Pinot Grigio opens