Spring Preview
Transcription
Spring Preview
A NEW YEAR in DESIGN From Alice Aycock to Z Zegna, Creative Talents Signal a Season of Change TRAVEL 34 Setting Her Stage carin rodebjer’s stockholm gUIDE 01 Hotel Skeppsholmen is one of the places where Rodebjer stays when in town. In the summertime, she likes eating outside at its restaurant, Långa Raden, which serves modern Swedish cuisine made from fresh, local produce. transatlantic talent carin rodebjer honed her style in stockholm. Gröna Gången 1; 01-46-8-407-2300; hotelskeppsholmen.com PORTRAIT ERIK WAHLSTROM 02 The designer enjoys brows02 ing at Bukowski’s, an auction house founded in 1870 and the oldest fine-art salesroom in Scandinavia. Among recent items up for bid were a series of Christo lithographs. Arsenalsgatan 4; 01-46-8-61408-00; bukowskis.com 01 03 Rodebjer’s spring/summer 2013 collection, which includes this dress, was inspired by desert landscapes and tones; the compact, economical works of American artist Andrea Zittel; and the surreal. “It’s a result of moving to New York,” she says. “I started longing for nature.” 04 rodebjer.com 04 Rodebjer describes the interior design and furniture shop Svenskt Tenn as a “cultural institution.” Its wide array of offerings include everything from a sofa designed in the mid-1930s by Austrian-born architect Josef Frank to local talent Eva Schildt’s new lacquered steel Oolong table. Strandvägen 5; 01-46-8-670-16-00; svenskttenn.se 05 “The first time I went there, I started crying,” Rodebjer says of the rotating menu of medium-sized dishes at the bistro Matbaren, located in the Grand Hotel and run by chef Mathias Dahlgren. “He does something really special.” Södra Blasieholmshamnen 6; 01-468-679-35-84; mathiasdahlgren.com 05 PHOTOS: 01, 02, 04, 05, ERIK WAHLSTROM. 03, COURTESY RODEBJER. Fashion designer Carin Rodebjer’s life has followed a Hollywood-style narrative: country girl moves to the big city to live her dreams, struggles along the way, and eventually, with hard work and a little luck, finds success. Rodebjer’s tale, however, is a distinctly Swedish one. Though she moved to Manhattan in 2011, her professional narrative began in Stockholm, where she lived after graduating from high school. In contrast to Gotland, the small, bucolic island on which she 03 was born and raised, Stockholm offered “bigger, exciting possibilities,” she says. “And style.” That style—and her attraction to effortless, elegant design—led her to pursue a career in fashion. Recalls Rodebjer: “I thought, ‘This must be real love!’” As an intern for the label Soot, though, she learned firsthand how tough the business could be, and instead of continuing on, left to study linguistics at the University of Stockholm. That didn’t last. “I longed for fashion again,” she says. So she dropped out, moved to New York, and studied the trade at FIT. In 2001, she launched her eponymous label of subtle, silhouetted, comfort-focused clothes; seven years later, the designer opened her first shop in Stockholm. Now Rodebjer, 42, has two locations and one shop-in-shop (another is set to open in February); a full-time staff of 12; and, with new investors onboard, she’s planning on building the brand even further. Central to Rodebjer’s career plot has been Stockholm, where she returns about four times a year. For her, it’s a place that offers inspiration—and ambition. “Because of the location, we feel a bit isolated, but we still have the curiosity to keep looking and keep moving,” she says of the city. “We really want to be a part of the world.”—SPENCER BAILEY