Cycling Puglia

in cooperation with
CYCLING
PUGLIA
GPS COORDINATES / 404 KM OF RIDES / 5 DAYS
Maps, symbols
and road signs
FESTIVALS AND EVENTS
The Puglian festivals have always been magnificent occasions for enjoying the territory and experiencing its most profound soul, whether it is a question of celebrating a patron saint or a
musical event. We have gathered many of the most important events on the calendar: they will
be excellent companions for your days on the bicycle.
CUE SHEET SYMBOLS
7
6
8
9
5
The routes described in this guide are accompanied by maps showing the routes and the
services offered, the interesting places to visit
and the off-the-beaten-track sites. The most
significant hills are shown with an altimetric
profile. For more detailed maps, we advise
you to buy specific maps.
Bari
veer right
Falò (11-12 January) At Castellana Grotte bonfires are lit to recall the miracle that freed the town
from the plague in 1691.
Sant’Antonio Abate (16 January) At Novoli a huge bonfire is lit to celebrate the hermit saint.
continue straight on
February
Carnival – the most interesting is the one in Putignano, the longest-lasting in Italy: it begins on
December 26th and ends on Shrove Tuesday. Great fetes also in Gallipoli, Massafra, Manfredonia
and Molfetta.
left-hand turn
veer left
March/April
San Giuseppe (19 March) Great bonfires at Altamura, Bitetto, Faeto, Ginosa and in other towns
in the province of Taranto.
Easter – on Maundy Thursday at Ruvo in Puglia there is the Procession of the Eight Saints, while in
Ginosa there is a very striking Via Crucis. On Easter Sunday, again in Ruvo, there is a great festival
with the Procession of the Risen Christ.
San Leone (6 April) the country fete of Bitonto, one of the most ancient in Italy, mentioned in
the Decameron.
San Giorgio (23 April) in Manfredonia the founding of the city is celebrated on the day of San Giorgio.
Festa dell’Incoronata (last week in April) and the Cavalcata degli Angeli in Foggia, with children
dressed as angels, saints and madonnas.
town/city
0
R
P
3
The tables show the number of kilometres at
which to turn, and the places and reference
points along the route. Below is a key to these
tables. The only other instrument that might
be useful is a cyclocomputer.
January
right-hand turn
caution
side trip
return
point of interest
<
traffic light
;
roundabout
May
San Nicola (7-8 May) great festival in Bari, parades, processions on the sea and music.
San Cataldo (8-10 May) in Taranto, processions on the sea, fireworks and a mediaeval regatta.
Open courtyards (end of May) in Lecce, the aristocratic palaces of the city open the doors of their courtyards.
June
Procession of the Cavallo Parato (Sunday of Corpus Christi) a celebration dating from the sixteenth
century: in Brindisi the archbishop carries the consecrated host on a white horse.
Santi Pietro & Paolo (29 June) Galatina pays homage to the saints with a festival of taranta
(traditional local music and dancing).
Mediterranea Estate (June-September) a long series of free events throughout the summer, with
concerts, comedians, theatre and dance – Lecce.
July
Disfida di Barletta (22 and 23 July) the second historical pageant (the first is held in February)
portraying the battle between the Italians and the French in 1503.
Madonna del Carmine (16 July) Trani celebrates the protector of fishermen, laying floral crowns in the sea.
Festival della Valle d’Itria (July-August) at Martina Franca, the renowned international festival
with opera, classical music and jazz.
San Nicola Pellegrino (last weekend in July) three days of celebrations for the patron saint of Trani.
August
THE GARGANO – DAY 2
CUES
HOW TO READ A CUE SHEET
start

0,1
1,5
2,7
climbs are graded as gradual, moderate, hard or steep

3,9
10,3
11,8
towns or cities along the ride are highlighted
read: at roundabout turn left to Monte Sant’Angelo


read: at 32 km turn left for the side trip to Villaggio Umbra

GPS COORDINATES
start
7
9
7
5
0
9
0
9;
6
Via Umberto I
to Rodi Garganico, Corso Garibaldi
to Rodi Garganico
to Vico del Gargano
2.2 km moderate climb
18,8
32 Peschici, Piazza IV Novembre 41°56’51”N 16°00’52”E
September
San Teodoro (1-10 September) historical regatta, competitions between fishing boats and fireworks
over the sea at Brindisi.
Fiera del Levante (second Sunday in September) At Bari, the largest trade fair in southern Italy.
to Vico del Gargano
October
5.6 km hard climb
Vico del Gargano
41°53’46”N 15°57’35”E
to Monte Sant’Angelo
to Monte Sant’Angelo
{
R5
Corteo Storico di Federico II (second weekend in August) mediaeval procession at Oria, with a
horse race between the four districts of the town.
Festa dei Martiri idruntini (11-14 August) Otranto commemorates the martyrs of 1480.
Notte della Taranta (late August) colossal concert of taranta (traditional local music and dancing)
in the town of Melpignano.
San Rocco (16 August) fireworks at Locorotondo.
Sant’Oronzo (24-26 August) feast for the patron saint of Lecce, with processions, fireworks and music.
La Cavalcata (26 August) at Ostuni processions of horsemen wearing brilliant red and white uniforms.
to Vieste for Villaggio Umbra 1 km
P
Intorciata (third Sunday of October) At Bitonto, procession in honour of the Medici saints Cosma
and Damiano.
December
}
Fiera di Santa Lucia (13-24 December) Christmas fair in Lecce and other towns, an excellent opportunity to buy nativity scenes in papier-mâché and terracotta.
Christmas – processions and events throughout the period of Advent. In many towns and villages
there are living nativity scenes, but the most spectacular is in Crispiano, in the province of Taranto.
in cooperation with
CYCLING
PUGLIA
GPS COORDINATES / 404 KM OF RIDES / 5 DAYS
TRULLI & SASSI 3 DAYS 237,5 KM Takes in Puglia’s rural heartland and magical conical stone houses
EASY-MODERATE
THE GARGANO 2 DAYS 166,5 KM MODERATE-DEMANDING
Circles Puglia’s Gargano peninsula, visiting seaside resorts on the coast and wild wilderness of the centre
Cycling Puglia
Specially produced by EDT
Authorized by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd for Regione Puglia (May 2011)
taken from Cycling in Italy (1st edition, July 2009)
© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 2009
EDT srl
17 via Pianezza
10149 Torino
[email protected]
www.lonelyplanetitalia.it
Business Development Cristina Oddone - [email protected]
All rights reserved. No part of this publications may be copied, or trasmitted in any form,
and no part may be hired without the written permission of the publisher.
Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet
and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries.
2
Puglia
NOT TO BE MISSED…
The variety of landscapes and the welcoming atmosphere of the Gargano (p. 9)
The picturesque, almost surreal architecture of Puglia: the trulli of the Valle d’Itria (see p. 4) and the
whitewashed houses of Vieste (p. 11)
The unforgettable flavours of a meal on the trabucchi, the fishing platforms that jut out over the sea
like crabs.
SPECIAL EVENTS
The feast of the three patron saints of Peschici (early July), with a procession through the mediaeval
quarter.
The Carpino Folk Festival (July-August): Italian folk music in Carpino, in the Gargano district.
The Valle d’Itria Festival (July-August): opera, classical music and jazz in Martina Franca.
CYCLE RACES
The Giro di Puglia MTB, a mountain bike lap race, also open to touring bikes (March-October)
The Gran Fondo Circuito delle Colline di Monopoli (April): a circular race along the coast of Alberobello.
The Gran Fondo del Gargano (May): from Mattinata to the Foresta Umbra, a classic race of about 130km.
GASTRONOMIC HIGHLIGHTS
C YC L I N G P U G L I A
Oil, wine, mutton, bread and fish, all prepared by the skilful Puglian chefs.
THE REGION
The most characteristic trait of Puglia is the length of its coast: 800km lapped by the Adriatic and Ionian Seas,
which corresponds to 10% of the entire Italian coastline. The inland areas are very varied, like the coast. There
are dense forests, like the renowned Foresta Umbra, beautiful pastures and sunny plains that drop down towards
sandy bays and cliffs. A paradise for cyclists, concentrated in the heart of a single Italian region.
www.viaggiareinpuglia.it
The bicycle is the right way to appreciate the variety and the beauty of Puglia. The
elegance of Bari, the picturesque Valle d’Itria, the landscapes of the Gargano, with its
cliffs, sandy beaches, whitewashed houses and the Foresta Umbra, without forgetting,
of course, the charm of the Salento area: these attractions deserve more attention and
the saddle of a bicycle is the perfect place from which to admire them. It is important
to remember that over the last decade the Puglia Region has invested time and effort
in enhancing its natural charm: the sea, the artistic heritage (the baroque buildings of
Lecce, and much more), the traditions, the climate, the cuisine, the habit of welcoming
visitors and culture of every sort. If you decide to travel the routes we suggest in this
guide, you will soon understand what we mean. You will be enchanted, whether you
visit a white trullo of Alberobello, a belvedere at Pugnochiuso or enjoy the generous
fare of a trabucco.
3
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PUGLIA
TRULLI & SASSI
Duration 3 days
Distance 237.5km
Difficulty easy–moderate
Start/Finish Bari
Summary Flat riding on rural back roads past
surreal architectural anomalies in stark, inspiring
landscapes just got better: the food of Puglia
makes your eyes roll back.
This is one of southern Italy’s few easy
rides, starting and finishing in Puglia’s
capital, Bari, and traversing the region’s
broad inland plains known as the Murge.
It’s mostly flat, but the landscape manages
to inspire rather than bore. It touches down
in Basilicata, visiting Matera’s once infamous Sassi, then discovers the landscapes
dotted with intriguing trulli. These quaint,
PLANNING
When to Cycle
Summer heat can be oppressive in Puglia, especially out on the open plains of the Murge.
Ideal riding times are March to July and September to November. If riding in the warmer
months, plan to make an early departure to
allow for siesta time during the hottest part
of the day.
Maps
TCI’s 1:200,000 Puglia map is fine, covering
all but one or two of the minor roads (which
aren’t shown on any other available maps of
the area either).
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Bari (start/finish)
AIR
Bari’s Palese Karol Wojtyla International
Airport (BRI; %information 080 58 00 200,
booking 080 58 00 204; www.aeroportidi
puglia.it) is located 10km west of the city
centre. It is serviced by a host of international,
domestic and budget airlines. To get to the
airport, take a train or the Cotrap bus (€4.15).
Taxis wait outside the airport and the trip into
town costs around €25, but you might have
to search a bit to find one willing to shuttle
a bike box.
BOAT
Bari’s port (www.aplevante.it) is the principal
port in the Adriatic. Ferries run to Greece,
Albania, Croatia and Montenegro. Bicycles
normally travel free.
BUS
The Ferrovie Appulo–Lucane (%08 057
25 229; www.fal-srl.it, in italian) services
Altamura (€2.90, 1 hour, hourly) and Matera (€4.50 1 hour 20 minutes, 10 daily). The
south of Puglia is serviced by the Ferrovie
del Sud-Est (%08 054 62 111, 800 079 090;
www.fseonline.it, in italian). Every hour its
tiny trains head for some of the most touristfilled towns in Puglia, like Alberobello (€4.50
1 hour ½ hours) and Martina Franca (€4.50,
2 hours).
C YC L I N G P U G L I A
The ‘spur’ and ‘heel’ of Italy’s boot, Puglia
is bordered by two seas, the Adriatic to the
east and the Ionian to the south. Its strategic
position as the peninsula’s maritime gateway
to the east made it a major thoroughfare and
a target for colonisers and invaders.
The ancient Greeks founded Magna Graecia, a string of settlements along the Ionian
coast. Brindisi marks the end of the Roman
Via Appia, which was completed around 190
BC and ran all the way to Rome.
The Norman legacy is seen in magnificent Romanesque churches across the
region. Foggia and its province were favoured by the great Swabian king, Frederick II, several of whose castles remain.
Spanish colonisers have also left their architectural mark, particularly in the province of Lecce.
Puglia’s predominant flatness makes it
ideal cycling territory. In any case, pedal
power offers a passage into many out-ofthe-way parts of the province and can open
otherwise closed doors into the world of the
innately friendly southern Italians. Another
indirect advantage is that cycling creates an
appetite, and perhaps nowhere in Italy is the
produce as fresh and the food as good as it
is in Puglia.
conical-roofed stone houses dot the richly
cultivated countryside of the Murge (between Noci and Locorotondo), a region
with a justly deserved reputation as the
‘garden of Italy’.
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C YC L I N G P U G L I A
TRULLI
Trulli are circular or cube-shaped, stone houses, conical-roofed and whitewashed, and built
entirely without mortar. Their roofs are tiled
with concentric rows of chiancarelle (evenlyshaped slate pieces) and topped with pinnacles or spheres, which are often painted with
astrological or religious symbols. Their origin
is obscure, with suggestions of a connection to
the Nuraghe of Sardinia, the bories of France
and other similar structures in parts of Spain
and Turkey.
The mortarless construction reputedly
enabled feudal lords to deny the exploited
peasants who tilled their lands any civil rights,
by conveniently moving them on whenever
necessary. Another theory is that the dry
construction enabled rapid dismantling and
rebuilding of the trulli, thereby sidestepping
decrees forbidding the construction of towns
by feudal lords without express royal permission, and avoiding heavy imposts levelled on
urban collectives.
The trulli area is in the Itria Valley. It ex-tends
from Conversano and Gioia del Colle in the
west to Ostuni and Martina Franca in the east.
The greatest concentration of trulli is in and
around Alberobello.
Within the more commercialised quarter of
Rione Monti, on the south side of Alberobello
(Unesco World Eritage site), more than 1000
trulli cascade down the hillside. To its east, on
the other side of Via Indipendenza, is Rione
Aia Piccola, with 400 trulli still mostly used as
family dwellings. In the modern part of town,
the 16th-century Trullo Sovrano (%08 043
25 482; Piazza Sacramento 10; h10-13 and
15.30-18 winter, 10-20 Easter-sep) has been
converted into a small museum.
TRAIN
Being a transportation hub, Bari has buses
to just about anywhere, but riding the train
is easier with a loaded bike. The train system out of Bari can be confusing due to the
various private and state railway services that
operate. Note that Puglia is proudly the only
region in Italy without the extra bike charge
on its trains!
On Piazza Aldo Moro you’ll find the main
train station (%89 20 21; www.ferrovie
dellostato.it), which is serviced by mainline
trains connecting Bari with Milan (1st/2nd
TRULLI & SASSI
Corato
Ruvo di
Puglia
SS16
A14
Terlizzi
SS231
Airpor
Bitonto
Mo
Palo del
Colle
SS238
SS96
S
Cassano
delle Murge
Gravina
di Puglia
Altamura
SS235
SS99
Sant
Masseria
Jesce
SS53
Parco Scultura
la Palomba
Side Trip
Matera
START: DAY 2
SS7
Santa Maria
della Palomba
class IC trains €86.50/64.50, 7½-10 hours),
Rome (€57/41, 6 hours) and Foggia (€17/13,
1½ hours), where you can connect to Manfredonia and the start of the Gargano ride. Be
aware that bikes cannot be taken on Alta Velocità trains unless disassembled and packed.
There are also trains to towns to the south like
Brindisi (€7.70, 1¼ hours) and Lecce (€9.70,
1½–2 hours).
THE RIDE
Day 1: Bari to Matera
4½–8 hours, 78km
Today involves an almost imperceptible
climb from sea level to 400m. Escaping
Bari’s urban congestion is relatively quick
and pain-free, with traffic thinning out after
only a few kilometres. Beyond Ceglie del
Campo (7.5km) – where you can pick up
supplies from the morning produce market – the route heads south through olive
groves to Adelfia (15.2km), a small rural
SS7
5
lonelyplanet.com
0
0
15 km
10 miles
SS16
A14
START & END
Bari
Airport
Bitonto
E55
Modugno
Triggiano
Capurso
Palo del
Colle
Mola di Bari
ADRIATIC
SEA
Noicattaro
SS111
SS100
SS16
Rutigliano
Ceglie del Campo
Polignano
SS96
Conversano
SS271
Turi
SS215
Acquaviva delle Fonti
SS48
Monopoli
Torri di Castiglione
Saracen Tower
SS172
A14
Cassano
delle Murge
E55
Casamassima
SS377
Side Trip
Sammichele
Grotte di
Castellana
Castellana Grotte
Egnazia
Torre Canne
Putignano
SS172
Fassano
E55
Coreggia
Noci
SS235
Santeramo in Colle
START: DAY 3
Alberobello
Gioia del Colle
Valle
d'Itria
Locorotondo
Masseria
Jesce
Side Trip
Martina
Franca
Side Trip
A14
SS7
Castellaneta
San Paolo
Mottola
town boasting an original Norman tower,
a lovely baroque palazzo with a clocktower,
and a baroque archway to the town’s historic
centre. Beyond Adelfia, your sense of space
becomes expansive as the horizon stretches
on forever and the rock-strewn land is given
over to vineyards and fruit orchards.
Cassano delle Murge (30.1km) has a
good little bakery, signposted just as you
enter the town. Beyond Cassano delle Murge
the minor road is a patchwork of repaired
delle Murge
potholes. It’s a little rough in places, but
pleasant distractions are plentiful in this
silent and harshly beautiful landscape of
olive groves corralled by rock walls, and vast
empty fields stretching away into a distant,
hazy horizon.
Altamura (54.9km) is a large rural centre,
and negotiating its maze of one-way streets
can be confounding. The city was buildt
in VI century BC, although human presence in the area dates back to 400.000 years
C YC L I N G P U G L I A
Santa Maria
della Palomba
SS100
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TRULLI & SASSI – DAY 1
CUES
GPS COORDINATES
Start
Bari tourist office by train station
41°07'34''N 16°52'20''E
9
9
7
7
9
7
9
;
;
8
5
9
8
7
7
5
8
8;
9
7
9
7
8<
7
9
5
9
7
8
8
9
R8
8
9
7
3
R9
7
7
9
0
8
6
8
7
7
9
0km
Head east of station on Via Zuppetta
0.4
at T unsigned
0.6
at T
(60m) Viale Unità d’Italia, to ‘Stadio’
1.8
Viale Don Sturzo (which becomes Papa Giovanni XXIII)
2.3
Giulio Petroni
4.9
to ‘Carbonara, ospedale’
5.0
5.8
7.5
12.9
15.3
15.8
16.2
to ‘Carbonara, ospedale’
Continue straight at intersection
Ceglie del Campo
to ‘Adelfia’
to ‘centro’ at stop sign
Adelfia
to ‘Bitritto’
to ‘Cassano delle Murge’ SP16
31.6
41°00’14’’N 16°52’05’’E
at clocktower
31.2
41°03'53''N 16°51'41''E
to ‘Adelfia’
16.8
24.5
C YC L I N G P U G L I A
(40m) Hard right at Piazza Luigi di Savoia
to underpass
‘to Cassano delle Murge’ (at ‘Stop’ sign)
‘to Cassano delle Murge’
Cassano delle Murge
40°53’30’’N 16°46’16’’E
at T intersection
31.7
‘to Matera, Santeramo in Colle’
32
‘to Matera, Santeramo in Colle’
34.1
‘to Altamura’
53.3
uphill
53.8
‘to Bari, Matera, Gravina in Puglia’
54.2
54.9
SIDE TRIP: MASSERIA JESCE
30 minutes–1hour, at 66.1km, 2.6km RT
‘to Matera, Gravina in Puglia’
Altamura
40°49’46’’N 16°33’15’’E
54.9
‘Matera, Corato’
55.1
Viale Martiri (not to ‘Matera’ to the right)
55.7
56.5
63.4
66.1
69
Tutte la direzioni, Via Carpentino
to LaterzaCUES CONTIES
to Laterza
to Matera SS9
to side trip to Masseria Jesce up on left 2.6km RT.
to Matera
72.4
75.5
to Matera
Parco Scultura la Palomba
to Matera SS7
to Santuario Santa Maria della Palomba
(1.6km) take first right after 20m
(0.3km) entrance is on the right}
75.5
76.5
77.1
77.5
to ‘Centro’
0.8km moderate climb
at stop sign to Palazzo Lanfranchi
merging with main road (Via Nazionale)
following information icon
77.9
following info icon on Via Roma
(10 meters) following info icon
78
following info icon
Matera, APT on left
ago (Uomo di Altamura), but it’s the 13thcentury Cattedrale dell’Assunta that is of
interest. The cathedral is in the old town’s
main street, Corso Federico II di Svevia.
Also, don’t miss out on Altamura’s regionally famous bread (pane di Altamura), which
will send you straight into carb-loading
heaven. Its hard exterior shields soft, thick
insides that have an ever-so-slight hint of
spice, maybe cinnamon. The route passes
right by a few bakeries.
For a few short kilometres, the route traces
the original Via Appia Antica (Appian Way),
roughly between 60 and 70km, but visions of
Roman centurions with clanging shields and
sandalled feet quickly dissipate within the
roar of traffic that’s not particularly heavy, but
fast-moving. The route passes Parco Scultura
la Palomba (75.5km; www.parcosculturala
palomba.it; under construction), an intriguing display of gigantic, surreal works of art.
Barinese Antonio Paradiso is in charge of this
project that combines his scientific experience in anthropology and palaeontology with
visual art. The final run up to the day’s end at
Matera involves one uphill grunt.
40°40’02’’N 16°36’06’’E
This whole region is dotted with masserias,
or old Italian farmhouses, that used to be the
nuclei of rural farming communities. Many
of them have been converted into agriturismi (farm stay accommodation). However,
Masseria Jesce, once a medieval agricultural
centre, has definitely not been converted
to anything. Rather, it has given time free
reign to dilapidate it into a fascinating relic.
Believed to have been built between 1400
and 1550, this massive stone structure was
intended to be a point of fortification for the
community against possible threats brewing
in an unsettled countryside.
Though the government intends it to be
a historical site for tourists, that project has
not manifested and you can wander about
this decrepit edifice freely while taking in the
stark landscape and imagining what it once
must have been like.
SANTUARIO SANTA MARIA
DELLA PALOMBA
30 minutes–one hour, at 75.5km, 1.6km RT
Once frequented by vagrants and shepherds
who visited the frescoed Madonna Odigitria,
7
lonelyplanet.com
this cave church (%08 353 30 287, telephone
in advance to be sure that the keeper will
wait you; Contrada Pedale della Palomba)
dates back to the Byzantine era. Now there
is a more recent church structure attached
to what used to be just a sanctuary carved
out of the cliff.
There are hiking trails into the gorge from
the courtyard to other minor cave churches if
you are up for that additional exercise. After
the left turn off the route at 75.5km, follow
signs to the church.
Day 2: Matera to Alberobello
4–7 hours, 71.1km
CUES
GPS COORDINATES
Start
Matera, APT
40°40'02''N 16°36'06''E
0km
head downhill
0.3
0.5
0.9
2.8
2.9
3.1
6.5
17.6
20.7
36.8
37.1
37.8
(20 meters) on Via De Viti de Marco
(20 meters) on Via Roma
38.7
39.9
56.9
57.2
57.6
58.1
58.4
59.6
60
Day 3: Alberobello to Bari
The last day might be the best of all, as the
countryside becomes lusher and you wind
your way via back roads through trulli
country.
This day is a juicy example of why bicycle
touring is one of the best ways to travel. In
Alberobello, mobs of tourists flood in to see
67
65
70
70.3
70.7
70.9
Via Fratelli Rosselli
Via Stigliani, to ‘Bari, Taranto’
‘to Bari, Taranto’
to ‘Taranto, Santeramo in Colle’
to ‘Santeramo in Colle’
to ‘Gioia del Colle’
to ‘Gioia del Colle’
to ‘Gioia del Colle’ at stop sign
to ‘Gioia del Colle’ centro
to ‘centro’ at stop sign
to ‘Bari’
Gioia del Colle
40°47'55''N 16°55'22''E
First exit to ‘Noci’
to ‘Noci’
40.8
40.9
at T at Stazione Matera
(30m) Viale Aldo Moro
64.6
5–9 hours, 88km
7
7
7
7<
6
7;
7<
7
7
9
7
8
9
7
9
;
;9
5
7
8
;9
8
9
7
8
5
3
9
7
9
8
5
6
7
at intersection, follow signs to Noci
at fork to ‘Noci’
to Mottola
if you want to go to Noci centro
to ‘Mottola’
to ‘Mottola’
to ‘Martina Franca’
to Martina Franca’
to Martina Franca’
NOT To Martina Franca, unsigned road
Vineria Barsento on Left, winery and restaurant
at T intersection at stop sign
at white trullo
at fork
to Centro at stop sign
to centro
Via Battisti
at intersection
71.1
Alberobello, Piazza Indipendenza
40°46'57''N 17°14'17''E
C YC L I N G P U G L I A
The first half of today’s ride heads back
across the broad, gently rolling plains of the
western Murge. Once you turn off the main
road out of Matera, the soft hues of tilled
soil and wheat crops mark the long stretch
to Gioia del Colle. On warm days the silence
may be broken by bizarre, squeaking crickets
that do a masterful imitation of derailleur
pulleys in dire need of oil. Don’t be surprised
if you do a time-warp double-take as you
pass a mule and cart.
Gioia del Colle (37.8km) is a large rural
town with a supermarket, a greengrocer
and several bars in the central piazza. From
there, it’s a straight shot to the turn-off
near Noci, which leads to possibly the most
pleasant part of the day through picturesque trulli territory on other quiet back
roads. It’s a gentle cruise to day’s end at
Alberobello.
TRULLI & SASSI – DAY 2
8 lonelyplanet.com
the trulli, and locals present them like appetizers. But roaming the rural countryside,
you’ll see the trulli and realise how they blend
with the well-tended orchards and vineyards
of the vast landscape. You get a sense of what
it might have been like to live in a trullo hundreds of years ago.
A short pedal north of Martina Franca is
Locorotondo (17.5km), a completely circular
town perched on a hill above the Valle dei
Trulli. It takes only a minor diversion to access the charming, rambling streets and alleys
of the centre, and it’s well worth the effort. It
also offers a couple of fine restaurants serving
delicious home-style food using the freshest
local produce.
TRULLI & SASSI – DAY 3
CUES
CUES CONTINUED
GPS COORDINATES
40.5
7
9
9
7
9
8
7
R
7
7
7
9
8;
7
8;
8
;
7
9
7
7
9
7
8
9
8
;8
7
8
7
9<
9<
7<
9
;
Start
Alberobello, Piazza del Popolo 40°47'06''N 17°14'21''E
0km
Head Downhill on Via Fausto Arturo Cucci
(flanks park on west)
40.7
at T unsigned ‘Largo Martellotta’
41.7
to ‘Locorotondo’
43.1
to ‘Locorotondo’
46.2
to ‘Locorotondo’
‘to ‘Ristorante/Pizzeria Green Park’
48
Strada Acquarulo
50.2
to “Martina Franca’ at stop sign
50.7
to ‘Martina Franca’
50.8
‘to Locorotondo’ (at ‘Stop’ sign)
50.9
0.1
0.7
0.8
1.5
2
9
9.5
C YC L I N G P U G L I A
Leaving Locorotondo, the route continues
to roll along quiet roads through undulating
farmland marked by a noticeable absence of
trulli. After the little one-bar village of Coreggia (25.8km), the route heads onto busier
roads, skirting Castellana Grotte (39.1km)
and beginning the long, loping descent to the
Adriatic Coast at Mola di Bari (64.4km) via
Conversano (51.2km). Take the short 1km
round-trip side trip to the Torre saracena
di Castiglione (46.2km).
From Mola di Bari, the route is flat and
moderately built up, and it hugs the coast
for the most part.
Traffic density will vary somewhat depending on the time of day and season, but it will
12
9
;8
9
7
7
9
9
5
9
7R
9
8
7
9<
R8
5
8
9
6
9
7
8
9
8
7
5
9
7
8
8R
9
9
12.2
{
15.7
16.7
17.0
17.8
18.5
18.6
23.4
24.2
25
25.8
28.3
28.9
31.6
37.4
38.9
39.1
39.8
P
}
51.5
Cupa Rampone Strada
51.8
stay left of train line
52.2
uphill at T intersection
53.2
53.3
to Locorotondo centro
57.2
not to Fasano
57.8
‘to Contrada San Marco’ (right of little church) SP 162
58.5
‘to Contrade Catuscio Nunzio’ (white sign) SC 190
63.3
no sign at roughly hewn roundabout
64.4
unsigned (green gate on drive-way to the right)
at T intersection, at stop sign
65.6
Viale Serenissima (at ‘Stop’ light)
67.8
‘to Castellana Grotte, Putignano’
69.6
‘to Putignano’ (at ‘Stop’ sign)
74.7
rock-walled lane, trullo on right
77.9
at fork
‘to Castellana Grotte’
78.2
78.4
‘to Monopoli, Polignano a Mare’
to Castellana Grotte cenrto
{
Grotte di Castellana 6.6km
‘to Monopoli, Brindisi’ (at ‘Stop’ sign)
(50m) ‘to Polignano a Mare’
‘to Polignano a Mare’
‘to Polignano a Mare’ (at ‘Stop’ sign)
86.7
P
}
‘to Monopoli, Polignano a Mare’
‘to Brindisi, Monopoli, Polignano a Mare’
87.5
87.7
Via Vecchia, ‘to Conversano’
‘to Torre Castiglione’
‘to Conversano’
{
Saracen tower 1km
P
}
small road, industrial buildings on right
at T intersection
at T intersection
at T intersection
‘to Conversano centro’
51.2
‘to Fasano’
39.4
Martina Franca 4km
minor road before white trullo,
40.8
GPS COORDINATES
Conversano
at T intersection, ‘to Bari’
‘to Bari, Rutigliano’
40°58'03''N 17°07'02''E
Via Bari (white sign)
2nd exit, ‘to Rutigliano’
to ‘Centro di Valorizzazione’
‘to Mola di Bari’
‘to Mola di Bari’
‘to Mola di Bari’
at T intersection
to ‘Cozze’ (not to Stadio)
to centro di Mola di Bari
at T intersection at waterfront
to ‘Torre a Mare’
to Torre a Mare (don’t get on highway)
Strada Scizze (right before highway entrance)
0.3km of gravel (head under arched overpass)
Via Abate Eustasio at stop sign
to ‘Bari Lungomare’
to ‘Stazione, Centro’ Corso Cavour
Via Prospero Petroni
Pedestrian/bike thruway, across from Piazza Umberto I
88
Bari, Stazione and APT tourist office
41°07'35''N 16°52'20''E
9
lonelyplanet.com
increase from what you’ve been accustomed
to over the last couple of days, especially as
you get closer to Bari. On the coastal stretch
coming into Bari is a strip where locals buy
cheap, fresh seafood and produce.
SIDE TRIP: MARTINA FRANCA
1 hour, at 12km, 4km RT
The short side trip to Martina Franca offers
the chance to admire its well-maintained
old quarter boasting some fine examples of
baroque architecture. Founded in the 10th
century by refugees fleeing the Arab invasion of Taranto, Martina Franca flourished
from the 14th century, when it was granted
tax exemptions (franchigie, hence the name
Franca) by Philip of Anjou.
049 98 211, 800 21 39 76; www.grottedi
castellana.it; Piazzale Anelli; full route/partial
route €15-12) form Italy’s longest natural,
subterranean network.
The interlinked galleries, with their
breathtaking stalactite and stalagmite formations, were first explored in 1938 by the
speleologist Franco Anelli: today’s visitors
can follow his route in a guided group.
After trudging down 265 steps (or taking
the elevator) to a huge cavern known as ‘la
Grave’, you pass through a series of caves,
culminating in the magnificent Grotta
Bianca.
The caves are only about 2km southwest
of the main town and are well signposted.
They’re open 9am–7pm daily, with tours
on the hour. Bikes can be left at Hotel
Autostello’s private car park (next to the
caves’ entrance) at no cost if you purchase
lunch at the hotel (www.hotelautostello.it).
Duration 2 days
Distance 166.5km
Difficulty moderate–demanding
Start/Finish Manfredonia
Summary In between bustling enclaves
of beachgoers on the coast, you have a
spectacular coastal ride. Inland, you’ll have
diverse landscapes and wildernesses practically
to yourself.
This circuit of Puglia’s surprisingly unspoilt Gargano Promontory, the ‘spur’ of
the Italian boot, hugs the coast one day
and traverses the mountainous interior
the next.
The ride passes through a rich and amazingly varied landscape of stark limestone
terrain, cliffs falling to the sea, ancient forests and beautiful beaches. It’s a truly special
place, and since public transportation here is
not the most convenient, you as the cyclist
have the unrivalled opportunity to explore
this marvellous territory (while others look
at you wistfully through the windows of vehicles).
While parts of the promontory bustle with
tourists in summer, it doesn’t suffer from
overcrowding or gross overdevelopment.
The visitors seem to cluster and leave you
the beautiful remainder. A midway stopover
in the lovely little cliff-top village of Peschici
offers seaside lazing and the option to access the superb beech and oak woods of the
Foresta Umbra.
The terrain is hilly and the two days relatively long and arduous, but opportunities
abound for those wishing to linger longer.
You could describe the Gargano as the
low-key, second cousin of the Amalfi Coast,
where you can experience a dramatic coastline without the dramatic crowds.
C YC L I N G P U G L I A
SIDE TRIP: GROTTE DI CASTELLANA
2–3hours, At 39.1, 6.6km return
These spectacular limestone caves (%08
THE GARGANO
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THE GARGANO
0
0
6 km
3 miles
ADRIATIC SEA
START: DAY 2
Peschici
Rodi
Garganico
Baia di
Manaccora
La Salata
San Menaio
Necropoli Salata
Ischitella
Vico del
Gargano
Alternative
Route
Promontorio
del Gargano
Vieste
Pizzomunno
Villaggio
Umbra
Side Trip
Pugnochiuso
Monte
Sacro
(872m)
Baia delle
Zagare
Mattinata
Monte
Sant'Angelo
Manfredonia
START/END
Siponto
C YC L I N G P U G L I A
ENVIRONMENT
Porto di
Mattinata
Golfo di
Manfredonia
The Gargano Promontory was formed somewhere between 70 and 180 million years ago,
and is predominantly composed of dolomite,
limestone and sedimentary rock. Traces of
human habitation date back to the Neolithic
Age.
The Parco Nazionale del Gargano includes the Riserva Marina delle Tremiti
(marine reserve of the Tremiti archipelago)
and covers 121,118 hectares.
The park is home to a wide variety of
important plant and animal species, including 170 of the 237 species of birds that nidify in Italy and 85 species of wild orchids.
There are 27,000 hectares of predominantly
broad-leaf forest (Italy’s largest), where 79
tree species such as the beech, ilex (holm
oak), Turkey oak, cerris, ash and elm thrive.
Coastal areas are dominated by native pines
and Mediterranean maquis.
Significant and endangered native animal and bird species include the capriolo
italico (Italy’s own roe deer), which inhabits the Foresta Umbra, the gallina prataiola
(a small native bustard) found on the dry
fields of the foothills, and 5 species of picchio (woodpecker). The native wildcat, several other species of woodpecker, peregrine
and lanner falcons, buzzards, kestrels, owls
(including the rare eagle owl) and sparrow
hawks also thrive in the sanctuary of the
park.
PLANNING
When to Cycle
While the tourist flocks and high prices of
the summer peak in August are best avoided,
the beach aspect can be enjoyed during any
of the warmer months. The promontory
also offers pleasant cycling in spring and
autumn, but winters are cold, wet (especially on the northern side) and windy on
the coast. If you’re riding on the weekend
you’ll run into more lycra-ed cyclists than
vrooming vehicles.
The Gargano is sprinkled with lodging and lots of camp sites (check out
www.camping.it), so this route can be
extended into any number of enjoyable
days. And don’t be afraid to explore roads
off the route.
Maps
TCI’s 1:200,000 Puglia map covers the ride.
GETTING TO/FROM THE RIDE
Manfredonia (start/finish)
BUS
Taking a bus means you don’t have to change
trains, but there are only two daily SITA
buses (€7.70, 1½ hours), leaving from Bari’s
ATS Viaggi office. Ferrovia del Gargano and
SITA also operate regular services between
Foggia and Manfredonia (€2.60; 2 hours;
frequent).
TRAIN
Trains connect Manfredonia with Foggia
(€2.50 per bike and person; 30 minutes; 5
daily; tickets from Bar Impero, opposite the
station), where FS services for many major
cities stop, including Bari (first/second class
€19.60/15.60, 2 hours).
THE RIDE
Day 1: Manfredonia to Peschici
5–9 hours, 86km
This is a longish day accented by a number
of climbs. The first, at 11.9km, is a moderate 3km at 5% not far out of Manfredonia.
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lonelyplanet.com
THE GARGANO – DAY 1
CUES
GPS COORDINATES
start
Manfredonia, Piazza del Popolo
41°37’46”N 15°55’03”E
0km
0.3
0.4
1.9
11.9
17.9
18.2
18.7
or
22.3
29
north on Corso Manfredi
9
7
6
7
0
7
6
8
9
0
7
Via Vittor Pisani
Via Tribuna
to ‘Mattinata’
‘to Monte Sant'Angelo’
3km moderate climb
‘to Vieste’
to ‘Mattinata’
to ‘Litoranea, Vieste’
to Mattinata Centro
2.3km moderate climb
to ‘Vieste’
29.9
31.5
35.4
39.7
0
0
7
7
3
5
8
7<
3
0
7
60.3
60.6
60.9
61.9
70.3
78.3
2.3km hard climb
3.6km moderate climb
camping village
to ‘centro, port’
Corso Lorenzo Fazzini
Vieste
Piazza Kennedy, to ‘Porto’
41°53’02”N 16°10’36”E
keep to road above coast
Peschici Litoranea
Necropoli La Salata
5.2km moderate-hard climbing
85.9
Villa Scapone
49.5
60
pensione & camping
(1km break in middle of climb)
to info icon Via Pertini
Peschici 86
Peschici Tourist Office on corner
of Piazza Sant'Antonio
41°56’50”N 16°00’51”E
steep pinches and one last hefty climb at
78.3km to test weary legs.
Day 2: Peschici to Manfredonia
4½–8 hours, 80.5km
After a short roll along the coast, today’s
route heads inland and upward, starting with
a hard 6km, then levelling out for a further
1km or so to Vico del Gargano (18.8km),
a major agricultural centre. Encompassing
two more moderate yet long climbs, the road
C YC L I N G P U G L I A
After skirting Mattinata (18.7km) the road
is smooth and wide, rising and falling dramatically as it negotiates the rugged coastline,
offering sensational panoramas down to the
gleaming waters of the Adriatic.
The south coast of the promontory is
noticeably drier and the vegetation sparser
than on the northern side, so noon heat
should be avoided. Rest assured, shady
coastal pines bring welcome relief beyond
35km. There are numerous bars, restaurants, hotels and camping villages (many
of which are seasonal) dotting the route, so
rest stops and accommodation options are
never far away.
Vieste (60.3km) is a bright and very
popular seaside resort, loaded with tourist
facilities and boasting some great beaches.
The IAT tourist office (%08 847 08 806;
Piazza Kennedy; h8-13.30 Mon-Fri and
15-18.30 Tue and Thu Nov-Mar, h8-13.30
and 15-20 Mon-Sat Apr-May and Sep-Oct;
h8-13.30 and 15-21 Jun-Aug) is an excellent
source of information on the national park
and places of interest on the promontory.
Worth a look in the medieval quarter are
the Chianca Amara (Bitter Stone), where
thousands were beheaded when the Turks
sacked Vieste in the 16th century, and the
Museo Malacologico, exhibiting a collection
of seashells from around the world.
On the flat stretch leaving town, the
road passes an endless chain of unobtrusive, low-level camping villages. At 70.3km
there’s a small Roman ruin on the left near
the church. At 71.8km (100m along the entrance road to Camping Spiaggia Lunga),
Sinergie (%08 847 06 635; www.agenzia
sinergie.it) conducts guided tours of the
necropoli paleocristiana La Salata, underground tombs and burial grounds representing the earliest evidence of Christianity
in the region.
There are plenty of secluded bays and little
beaches to explore along the final stretch to
Peschici, which includes a series of short,
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THE GARGANO – DAY 2
CUES
start
0.1
1.5
2.7
3.9
10.3
11.8
Peschici, Piazza IV Novembre 41°56’51”N 16°00’52”E
7
9
7
5
0
9
0
9;
6
R5
9
0
3
7
7
9
7
7
7
6
7
9
9
9
7
Corso Umberto I
to ‘Rodi Garganico,’ Corso Garibaldi
‘to Rodi Garganico’
to ‘ Vico del Gargano'
2.2 moderate climb
32 Vico del Gargano
55.4
60.7
61.2
61.6
63.5
73.1
77.7
79
79.5
80.1
80.2
C YC L I N G P U G L I A
80.3
41°53’46”N 15°57’35”E
‘to Monte Sant'Angelo’
55.1
‘to Vico del Gargano’
5.6km hard climb
18.8
GPS COORDINATES
to ‘Monte Sant'Angelo’
{
to ‘Vieste’ for ST Villaggio Umbra 1km
‘to Monte Sant' Angelo, Manfredonia’
P
}
5km moderate to hard climb
Monte Sant’Angelo
‘to Manfredonia’
‘to Manfredonia’
‘to Manfredonia,’ at stop sign
‘to Manfredonia’
‘to Manfredonia’
‘to Manfredonia nord’
Via Giantommaso Giordani
Via Torre dell’Astrologo
(50m) Via delle Antiche Mura
Via Campanile
Via Tribuna
Via Arcivescovado
41°42’18”N 15°57’32”E
80.5
Manfredonia, Piazza del Popolo 41°37’44”N 15°55’07”E
maintains the exposed ridgeline, affording
superb views down to Peschici and the coast
before plunging into the leafy depths of the
Foresta Umbra.
A short side trip (32km) to Villaggio
Umbra leads to a museum and nature centre,
and the leafy surrounds of the picnic areas,
kiosk and restaurant nearby make an ideal
rest stop.
Back on the promontory’s southern side,
the vegetation becomes markedly thinner
and drier, slowly giving way to more open
farmland as the road drops into the steep
Valle Carbonara. The forbidding switchback
up to Monte Sant’Angelo looks worse than it
is, and after a steady, but exposed, 5km climb
you’re in the town (60.7km).
The centre is just off the route. For useful tourist information go to the Pro Loco
(%08 845 65 520; Via Reale Basilica 40;
h8.30-13.30 and 15-20 May-Aug, h1013 and 16.30-18.30 Sep-Apr) and the Parco
Nazionale del Gargano head office (%08
845 68 911, www.parcogargano.it; Via
Sant’Antonio Abate 121; h8-14 Mon-Fry,
15-18 Tue and Thu).
The town’s main attraction is the Santuario di San Michele Arcangelo, for centuries
the last stop on a gruelling pilgrimage to the
place where St Michael the Archangel is said
to have appeared before the Bishop of Siponto
in AD 490.
Opposite the sanctuary is the Tomba di
Rotari, not a tomb but a 12th-century baptistery. Enter through the facade of the Chiesa
di San Pietro. Its intricate rose window is all
that remains since a 19th-century earthquake
destroyed the church.
The town’s highest point is a Norman
castle with Swabian and Aragonese additions. Take time too to enjoy the belvedere,
a building situated to give sweeping views
of the coast.
With a scintillating switchback descent
from 800m to the coast, the last leg to the
ride end in Manfredonia is quick and easy.
Maps, symbols
and road signs
FESTIVALS AND EVENTS
The Puglian festivals have always been magnificent occasions for enjoying the territory and experiencing its most profound soul, whether it is a question of celebrating a patron saint or a
musical event. We have gathered many of the most important events on the calendar: they will
be excellent companions for your days on the bicycle.
CUE SHEET SYMBOLS
7
6
8
9
5
The routes described in this guide are accompanied by maps showing the routes and the
services offered, the interesting places to visit
and the off-the-beaten-track sites. The most
significant hills are shown with an altimetric
profile. For more detailed maps, we advise
you to buy specific maps.
Bari
veer right
Falò (11-12 January) At Castellana Grotte bonfires are lit to recall the miracle that freed the town
from the plague in 1691.
Sant’Antonio Abate (16 January) At Novoli a huge bonfire is lit to celebrate the hermit saint.
continue straight on
February
Carnival – the most interesting is the one in Putignano, the longest-lasting in Italy: it begins on
December 26th and ends on Shrove Tuesday. Great fetes also in Gallipoli, Massafra, Manfredonia
and Molfetta.
left-hand turn
veer left
March/April
San Giuseppe (19 March) Great bonfires at Altamura, Bitetto, Faeto, Ginosa and in other towns
in the province of Taranto.
Easter – on Maundy Thursday at Ruvo in Puglia there is the Procession of the Eight Saints, while in
Ginosa there is a very striking Via Crucis. On Easter Sunday, again in Ruvo, there is a great festival
with the Procession of the Risen Christ.
San Leone (6 April) the country fete of Bitonto, one of the most ancient in Italy, mentioned in
the Decameron.
San Giorgio (23 April) in Manfredonia the founding of the city is celebrated on the day of San Giorgio.
Festa dell’Incoronata (last week in April) and the Cavalcata degli Angeli in Foggia, with children
dressed as angels, saints and madonnas.
town/city
0
R
P
3
The tables show the number of kilometres at
which to turn, and the places and reference
points along the route. Below is a key to these
tables. The only other instrument that might
be useful is a cyclocomputer.
January
right-hand turn
caution
side trip
return
point of interest
<
traffic light
;
roundabout
May
San Nicola (7-8 May) great festival in Bari, parades, processions on the sea and music.
San Cataldo (8-10 May) in Taranto, processions on the sea, fireworks and a mediaeval regatta.
Open courtyards (end of May) in Lecce, the aristocratic palaces of the city open the doors of their courtyards.
June
Procession of the Cavallo Parato (Sunday of Corpus Christi) a celebration dating from the sixteenth
century: in Brindisi the archbishop carries the consecrated host on a white horse.
Santi Pietro & Paolo (29 June) Galatina pays homage to the saints with a festival of taranta
(traditional local music and dancing).
Mediterranea Estate (June-September) a long series of free events throughout the summer, with
concerts, comedians, theatre and dance – Lecce.
July
Disfida di Barletta (22 and 23 July) the second historical pageant (the first is held in February)
portraying the battle between the Italians and the French in 1503.
Madonna del Carmine (16 July) Trani celebrates the protector of fishermen, laying floral crowns in the sea.
Festival della Valle d’Itria (July-August) at Martina Franca, the renowned international festival
with opera, classical music and jazz.
San Nicola Pellegrino (last weekend in July) three days of celebrations for the patron saint of Trani.
August
THE GARGANO – DAY 2
CUES
HOW TO READ A CUE SHEET
start

0,1
1,5
2,7
climbs are graded as gradual, moderate, hard or steep

3,9
10,3
11,8
towns or cities along the ride are highlighted
read: at roundabout turn left to Monte Sant’Angelo


read: at 32 km turn left for the side trip to Villaggio Umbra

GPS COORDINATES
start
7
9
7
5
0
9
0
9;
6
Via Umberto I
to Rodi Garganico, Corso Garibaldi
to Rodi Garganico
to Vico del Gargano
2.2 km moderate climb
18,8
32 Peschici, Piazza IV Novembre 41°56’51”N 16°00’52”E
September
San Teodoro (1-10 September) historical regatta, competitions between fishing boats and fireworks
over the sea at Brindisi.
Fiera del Levante (second Sunday in September) At Bari, the largest trade fair in southern Italy.
to Vico del Gargano
October
5.6 km hard climb
Vico del Gargano
41°53’46”N 15°57’35”E
to Monte Sant’Angelo
to Monte Sant’Angelo
{
R5
Corteo Storico di Federico II (second weekend in August) mediaeval procession at Oria, with a
horse race between the four districts of the town.
Festa dei Martiri idruntini (11-14 August) Otranto commemorates the martyrs of 1480.
Notte della Taranta (late August) colossal concert of taranta (traditional local music and dancing)
in the town of Melpignano.
San Rocco (16 August) fireworks at Locorotondo.
Sant’Oronzo (24-26 August) feast for the patron saint of Lecce, with processions, fireworks and music.
La Cavalcata (26 August) at Ostuni processions of horsemen wearing brilliant red and white uniforms.
to Vieste for Villaggio Umbra 1 km
P
Intorciata (third Sunday of October) At Bitonto, procession in honour of the Medici saints Cosma
and Damiano.
December
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Fiera di Santa Lucia (13-24 December) Christmas fair in Lecce and other towns, an excellent opportunity to buy nativity scenes in papier-mâché and terracotta.
Christmas – processions and events throughout the period of Advent. In many towns and villages
there are living nativity scenes, but the most spectacular is in Crispiano, in the province of Taranto.
in cooperation with
CYCLING
PUGLIA
GPS COORDINATES / 404 KM OF RIDES / 5 DAYS