Panama City

PA N A M A C I T Y
© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
68
Panama City
The most cosmopolitan capital in Central America, Panama City is both a gateway to the country’s natural riches and a vibrant destination in its own right. A hub of international banking and
trade, the city sports a sultry skyline of shimmering glass and steel towers reminiscent of Miami.
The capital rides the rails of urban chaos, with no shortage of traffic jams, wayward taxis,
and casinos stacked sideways between chic clubs and construction sites. A respite from all
that buzz, the colonial neighborhood of Casco Viejo is a dilapidated peninsula with ruins
and cobbled streets reminiscent of old Havana. After the city elite fled to live in skyscrapers,
decades passed with Casco Viejo crumbling on the edge of the sea. Recently, artists and
small businesses are moving back in and renovations are abundant. With luxury lofts, cafes
and the hottest nightspots arriving, the Casco is approaching full-swing revival.
With arms open to the east and the west, Panama City developed as a hub of trade and
immigration. As a result, urbanites hail from every corner of Latin America, the Caribbean
and Asia. Increasing numbers of North Americans and Europeans are adding to the mix. The
result is a cultural mix that marks this capital as more dynamic and fluid than its neighbors.
An ‘anything goes’ attitude proves a breath of fresh air.
Within minutes of the city’s center are tropical rainforests and verdant parks home to
howler monkeys, toucans and sloths. You can also escape the bustle by hitting a broad
sandy beach (Pacific or Caribbean) or by hopping a train to Colón.
HIGHLIGHTS
Exploring history-filled Casco Viejo (p72),
Parque Natural
Metropolitano
a rapidly gentrifying neighborhood of
crumbling colonials, soaring churches and
grand plazas
Calle
Uruguay
Reconnecting with the past at the ruins of
Panamá Viejo (p77), the original Panama
City circa 1519
Hiking through Parque Natural Metro-
Panamá
Viejo
Casco
Viejo
politano (p77), 265 hectares of rainforest
just 10 minutes from downtown
Feasting on tapas, pasta and Panamanian
specialties at any of the capital’s fine assortment of restaurants (p88)
Partying like a rock star on Calle Uruguay
(p93), home to the city’s most sophisticated
nightlife
POPULATION: 446,000
 AREA: 2561 SQ KM
 ELEVATION: SEA LEVEL
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ORIENTATION
Panama City stretches about 20km along the
Pacific coast, from the Panama Canal at its
69
western end to the ruins of Panamá Viejo
to the east.
Near the canal are Albrook airport, the Fort
Amador Causeway (better known simply as ‘the
causeway’) and the wealthy Balboa and Ancón
suburbs first built for the US canal and military
workers. The Puente de las Américas (Bridge of
the Americas) arches gracefully over the canal.
The colonial part of the city, Casco Viejo
(also called San Felipe and Casco Antiguo),
juts into the sea on the southwestern side of
town. From here, two major roads head east
through the city.
The main drag is Av Central, which runs
past the cathedral in Casco Viejo to Parque
Santa Ana and Plaza Cinco de Mayo; between
these two plazas, the avenue is a pedestrianonly shopping street. At a fork further east,
the avenue becomes Av Central España; the
section that traverses the El Cangrejo business
and financial district is called Vía España.
The other part of the fork becomes Av Simón
Bolívar and finally Vía Transístmica as it
heads out of town and across the isthmus
toward Colón.
Av 6 Sur branches off Av Central not far out
of Casco Viejo and undergoes several name
changes. It is called Av Balboa as it curves
around the edge of the bay to Punta Paitilla,
on the bay’s eastern point; it then continues
under various names past the Centro Atlapa
to the ruins of Panamá Viejo.
Generally, avenidas (avenues) run east–
west, while calles (streets) run north–south.
Av Central and Vía España form the boundary – avenidas south of Vía España are labeled
sur (south) while calles east of Vía España are
labeled este.
INFORMATION
Bookstores
El Hombre de la Mancha (Map p76; %263-6218;
Calle 52; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat) A Spanish-language
bookstore favored by Panamanians.
Exedra Books (Map p74; %264-4252; Vía España at
Vía Brasil; h9:30am-9:30pm Mon-Sat, 11am-8:30pm
Sun) Easily one of Central America’s best bookstores.
Librería Argosy (Map p76; %223-5344; Vía Argentina
near Vía España) A bookstore and cultural institution
owned by a cheerful Greek immigrant.
Emergency
Ambulance %228-2187, 229-1133
Fire %103
Police %104
PA N A M A C I T Y
HISTORY
Panama City was founded in 1519 by the
Spanish governor Pedro Arias de Ávila
(Pedrarias) not long after Balboa first saw
the Pacific. Although the Spanish settlement quickly became an important center of
government and church authority, the city
was ransacked and destroyed in 1671 by the
English pirate Sir Henry Morgan, leaving only
the stone ruins of Panamá Viejo.
Three years later, the city was reestablished about 8km to the southwest in the
area now known as Casco Viejo. Although
the peninsular location made the city welldefended, the Spanish overland trade route
faded upon the destruction of the Caribbean
port at Portobelo in 1746. Panama gained
independence in 1821 and became part of
Gran Colombia, though a decade later the
regional confederation dissolved and Panama
belonged to Colombia. Panama City subsequently declined in importance, though it
would return to prominence in the 1850s
when the Panama Railroad was completed,
and gold seekers on their way to California
flooded across the isthmus by train.
Panama declared its independence from
Colombia on November 3, 1903 in the Parque
de la Independencia and Panama City was
firmly established as the capital. Since the
Panama Canal was completed in 1914, the
city has emerged as a center for international
business and trade.
The city’s greatest setback in recent times
occurred in 1989, when it was invaded by the
USA to oust dictator Manuel Noriega from
power. The capital suffered damage both from
the invasion itself and from the subsequent
looting, and several residential blocks of the
El Chorillo district were destroyed by combatignited fire.
Following the handover of the Panama
Canal in 1999, and the subsequent closure
of American military bases in the country,
Panama City has finally taken charge of its
own destiny. Today, Panama City is by far
the wealthiest city in Central America, and
residents are optimistic about the future. With
a spate of foreign investment and the Panama
Canal expansion, the city is poised to continue
its constant transformation.
PA N A MA C I T Y • • H i s t o r y
PA N A MA C I T Y • • I n f o r m a t i o n
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Internet Access
Medical Services
Most lodgings have wi-fi, and internet cafes
are plentiful in Panama City, especially in the
El Cangrejo banking district.
Business Center (Map p76; Calle 49A Oeste; per hr
Medicine in Panama, especially in Panama
City, is of a high standard.
Centro Médico Paitilla (Map p74; %265-8800,
265-8883; cnr Calle 53 & Av Balboa) This medical center
has well-trained physicians who speak both Spanish and
English.
Centro Metropolitano de Salud (Map p70; %5126600; Corosel Los Ríos; h7:30am-noon & 1-3pm MonFri) Offers yellow-fever vaccinations with international
certificate (required for travel to Colombia if returning) for
a minimal charge.
US$0.75; h24hr) Air-conditioned; fast internet.
Libraries
Earl S Tupper Tropical Sciences Library (Map p74;
%212-8113) A world-class resource for information on
tropical biology and conservation.
Maps
Instituto Geográfico Nacional (Tommy Guardia; Map
Money
p74; %236-2444; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri) Just off Av
Simón Bolívar opposite the Universidad de Panamá. Has an
excellent collection of maps for sale.
ATMs are abundant throughout the city.
The Banco Nacional de Panamá counter at
Tocumen International Airport is one of the
ὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈ
Ὀ
ὈὈ
ὈὈ
B
C
To Miraflores Locks (12km);
Summit Botanical Gardens &
Zoo (22km); Gamboa (40km)
1
D
INFORMATION
ATP Tourist Office........................1
Centro Metropolitano de Salud....2
HSBC...........................................3
Institute for Spanish Language
Studies.....................................4
US Embassy..................................5
5
17
F3
B2
D1
4
Nor
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A
D1
B1
3
Av Mig 23
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Bro 27
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PANAMA CITY
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Av
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Balboa
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28
Amador
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18
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C
tr
To Moses, Bikes n More (2km);
a
Centro de Exhibiciones
Marinas (3km); Museo de
la Biodiversidad (4km);
See Central Panama City Map (p74)
Boats to Isla Taboga,
Causeway, Cayucos, Fuerte
Amador Resort & Marina, Isla Flamenco,
Isla Flamenco Shopping Center,
Traffic Island; Zona Viva (Causeway) (6km)
ica)
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13
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To La Chorrera
(32km); Penonomé
(144km)
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29
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Av
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Balboa
Harbor
24
Aeropuerto Marcos
A Gelabert
(Albrook Airport)
6
lo
P
Ví a
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lo
Gaillard
12
11
ab
Curundú
2
Parque Natural
Metropolitano
is t a d
2
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Calle
Hospital
Ca mino
Pana
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ú
Mirador
el
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Ca
PA N A M A C I T Y
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PA N A MA C I T Y • • I n f o r m a t i o n
Telephone
Tarjetas (phone cards) valued at US$3, US$5
and US$10 can be purchased at pharmacies
for local and regional calls from any card
phone.
checks with no fee; US$5 per transaction for other types.
Panacambios (Map p76; %223-1800; Ground fl, Plaza
Regency Bldg, Vía España; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri) Buys
and sells international currencies.
Tourist Information
All the ATP (Autoridad de Turismo Panamá)
offices give out free maps. The usefulness of
a given office depends on the individual employees. Note that few ATP employees speak
English.
ATP (Map p70; %226-7000; www.atp.gob.pa; Vía Israel,
Post
Many hotels sell stamps and some will mail
guests’ letters.
Main post office (Map p74; Av Balboa btwn Calles 23
& 24; h7am-5:45pm Mon-Fri, 7am-4:45pm Sat) Holds
poste restante items for 30 days.
Post office (Map p74; Plaza las Americas; h7am5:45pm Mon-Fri, 7am-4:45pm Sat) Only post office for
mailing packages. There’s a second branch nearby.
San Francisco; h8:30am-4:30pm Mon-Fri) Panama’s tourist bureau is headquartered at the Atlapa Convention Center
in the San Francisco neighborhood. Enter at the rear of the
large building. ATP gives out free maps and information on
0
0
E
F
G
To Baha'i House of
Worship (5km)
1 km
0.5 miles
H
A v Ric
a r do J A lf a r o (T
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M ue r t o
1
Miraflores
ὈὈ
ὈὈ
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San
Miguelito
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El Dorado
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lo
Río
Abajo
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7
Call
e 74 3 Este
Este
re
See Panamá Viejo Map (p79)
Ví
a
Belisario
16
19
25
1
To Tocumen
International
Airport
(38km)
fev
Le
sil
Bra
San
Francisco
Multiplaza
Mall
Parque
Lefevre
to
Vía
or Calle 50)
21
Omar
Parque
Recreativo
Omar
9
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Cinc u e nt ena
Panamá
Viejo
rio
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Ecocircuitos..............................(see 14)
Museo Antropológico Reina
Torres de Araúz....................... 6 C2
Panama Canal Administration
Building....................................7 B3
Panama Exotic Adventures...........8 B4
Parque Recreativo Omar...............9 E3
Scubapanama.............................10 E2
Visitors Center (Parque Natural
Metropolitano)......................11 C2
SLEEPING
Albrook Inn................................12
Canal Inn...................................13
Country Inn & Suites..................14
Hostal Amador Familiar..............15
Hostal Casa Margarita................16
Hostel de Clayton.......................17
La Estancia.................................18
Sheraton Hotel...........................19
C2
A3
A4
A3
E3
B1
B3
E3
EATING
La Tablita...................................20 D2
Limoncillo...................................21 E3
Lung Fung.................................22 D2
Niko's Café................................23 D1
Parillada Jimmy..........................(see 1)
Supermercado Rey...................(see 27)
)
To Tocumen
International Airport
(35km)
2
3
DRINKING
Lum's.........................................24 A3
ENTERTAINMENT
Li-bar.........................................25 E4
Teatro En Círculo........................26 E2
SHOPPING
El Dorado Mall...........................27 D1
TRANSPORT
Balboa Yacht Club (boats to
Isla Contadora)......................28 A4
Panama Railway Company.........29 B3
4
PA N A M A C I T Y
few places in Panama City that exchanges
foreign currency.
HSBC (Map p76; Vía España) Changes Amex traveler’s
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PA N A M A C I T Y
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PA N A MA C I T Y • • D a n g e r s & A n n o y a n c e s
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things to see and do. There are also ATP information counters
in Casco Viejo and Panamá Viejo.
Autoridad Nacional del Ambiente (ANAM; Map p74;
%315-0855; h8am-4pm) ANAM can occasionally
provide maps and information on national parks. However,
they are not organized to provide much assistance to tourists. Located inside Building 804 of the Albrook district.
east on the way to the airport is Panamá Viejo,
where the ruins of Spain’s first settlement lie.
To the north is Parque Natural Metropolitano,
an enormous tract of rainforest that serves as
welcome refuge from the hustle and bustle
of the city. In the south, the Causeway has
numerous restaurants, bars and fine vantage
points on the edge of the ocean.
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
Casco Viejo is the focus of an ambitious urban
renewal program, though it’s still a work in
progress. Generally speaking, the tip of the
peninsula southeast of the Iglesia de la Merced
is safe for tourists and heavily patrolled by police officers on bicycles. However, you should
always exercise caution, and stay where it’s
well lit and where there are plenty of people
around. Always take taxis at night.
Casco Viejo gets an undeserved bad rep,
though you should not underestimate how
quickly the neighborhood can change. As
you move away from the tip of the peninsula, you will be entering high-density slums
and plenty of tourists have been the target
of criminal activity. Other high-crime areas
include Curundú, El Chorrillo, Santa Ana,
San Miguelito and Río Abajo.
Calle Uruguay, the clubbing hub of the city,
also attracts opportunists. Don’t take your full
wallet out at night. We have heard reports of
women going up to male travelers to hug them
and taking their wallets.
Taxis generally allow unrelated passengers
to share the cab but robberies do occasionally
occur. If you feel uncomfortable, don’t get into
a taxi with more than one passenger. If you
speak Spanish, you can offer a slightly higher
fare to keep your taxi to yourself.
There are occasional reports of robbery
near the ruins of Panamá Viejo – don’t go
after sunset, and always keep an eye out.
Panama has become stringent on drug
control, which sometimes means roadblock
checks of drivers and their passengers. Always
have your passport with you.
When walking the streets of Panama City,
be aware that drivers do not yield to pedestrians. Sometimes it’s best to approach intersections like Panamanians – look both ways
then run like hell.
SIGHTS
Panama’s major sights are found to the west
in Casco Viejo, which is home to the last remnants of the city’s colonial heritage. Further
Casco Viejo
Following the destruction of the old city by
Henry Morgan in 1671, the Spanish moved
their city 8km southwest to a rocky peninsula
on the foot of Cerro Ancón. The new location
was easier to defend as the reefs prevented
ships from approaching the city except at high
tide. The new city was also easy to defend as
a massive wall surrounded it, which is how
Casco Viejo (Old Compound) got its name.
In 1904, when construction began on the
Panama Canal, all of Panama City existed
where Casco Viejo stands today. However,
as population growth and urban expansion
pushed the boundaries of Panama City further
east, the city’s elite abandoned Casco Viejo,
and the neighborhood rapidly deteriorated
into an urban slum.
Today, Casco Viejo is half-crumbling, halfhigh end. Part of the allure of strolling along
Casco Viejo’s cobbled streets is the dilapidated
charm of the crumbling buildings, modest
homes and ruins. The newly restored architecture gives a sense of how magnificent the
area must have looked in past years. Declared
a Unesco World Heritage Site in 2003, the
area is getting international recognition.
Unfortunately, developers are still known to
tear down patrimonial architecture with little
consequence. The restoration of Casco Viejo
is a work in progress, so please be aware of
your surroundings and exercise caution while
exploring this fascinating neighborhood.
The following places are located on Map
p78.
PLAZA DE LA INDEPENDENCIA
This plaza is the heart of Casco Viejo, and was
the site where Panama declared its independence from Colombia on November 3, 1903.
IGLESIA DE SAN JOSÉ
This church (Av A) protects the famous Altar de
Oro (Golden Altar), which was about the only
thing of value salvaged after Henry Morgan
sacked Panamá Viejo. According to local leg-
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TEATRO NACIONAL
Built in 1907, the interior of this ornate theater
(%262-3525; Av B) has been completely restored,
and boasts red and gold decorations, a oncemagnificent ceiling mural by Roberto Lewis
(one of Panama’s finest painters) and an impressive crystal chandelier. Performances are
still held here – to find out about them, or just
to have a look at the theater, go around to the
office door at the side of the building.
PLAZA DE FRANCIA
At the tip of the southern point is this plaza,
which displays large stone tablets and statues dictating the story (in Spanish) of the
French role in the construction of the canal.
The plaza is dedicated to the memory of the
22,000 workers, most of them from France,
Guadeloupe and Martinique, who died trying
to create the canal. Most were killed by yellow fever and malaria, and among the busts
is a monument to the Cuban doctor Carlos
J Finlay, who discovered how mosquitoes
transmit yellow fever. His work led to the
eradication of the disease in Panama.
On one side of the plaza are nine restored
dungeons that were used by the Spaniards and
later by the Colombians. Although they’re now
home to some rather upscale art galleries and
restaurants, you can still see the dungeons’
original stonework. Also on the plaza are the
Teatro Anita Villalaz and the Instituto Nacional de
Cultura (INAC; %211-4034; h8:30am-4pm Mon-Fri).
INAC is responsible for maintaining the country’s museums and other cultural institutions.
There is a small gallery on the 1st floor that
displays works by Panamanian artists.
PASEO LAS BÓVEDAS
This esplanade runs along the top of the sea
wall built by the Spanish to protect the city.
From here, you can see the Puente de las
Américas arching over the waterway and the
ships lining up to enter the canal.
73
PALACIO DE LAS GARZAS
The Palacio de las Garzas (Presidential Palace; Av Alfaro)
is named after the great white herons that
reside here. The president of Panama lives on
the upper floor.
CLUB DE CLASES Y TROPAS
This abandoned ruin (Calle 1a Oeste) was once the
favorite hangout of General Noriega, though
it was virtually destroyed during the 1989
invasion. Some fresh paint was selectively
applied in early 2000, when scenes from the
movie The Tailor of Panama were filmed here.
PARQUE BOLÍVAR
In 1826, in a schoolroom opposite this park,
Simón Bolívar held a meeting urging the union
of the Latin American countries. After many
struggles against Spanish domination, Bolívar
succeeded in liberating Bolivia, Colombia,
Ecuador, Peru and Venezuela, and he created
Gran Colombia, which encompassed all these
states. Although Bolívar was unable to keep
Gran Colombia together, he is nonetheless
venerated as a hero throughout Latin America.
MUSEO DE ARTE RELIGIOSO COLONIAL
Housed beside the ruins of the Iglesia y
Convento de Santo Domingo, the Museo de
Arte Religioso Colonial (Museum of Colonial Religious Art;
%228-2897; cnr Av A & Calle 3; admission US$1; h8am-4pm
Tue-Sat) has a collection of colonial-era religious
artifacts, some dating from the 16th century.
Just inside the doorway of the ruins is the
Arco Chato, a long arch that had stood here,
unsupported, for centuries. It reportedly
played a part in the selection of Panama over
Nicaragua as the site for the canal since its
survival was taken as proof that the area was
not subject to earthquakes. Sadly, it collapsed
in 2003 but it has since been rebuilt.
MUSEO DEL CANAL INTEROCEÁNICO
The impressive Museo del Canal Interoceánico
(%211-1995; www.museodelcanal.com; Calle 6a Oeste;
admission US$2; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun) is housed in
a beautifully restored building that once
served as the headquarters for the original
French canal company. The Panama Canal
Museum (as it’s more commonly known)
presents excellent exhibits on the famous waterway, framed in their historical and political
context. Signs are in Spanish, but Englishspeaking guides and audiotours (US$5) are
available.
PA N A M A C I T Y
end, when word came of the pirate’s impending
attack, a priest attempted to disguise the altar by
painting it black. The priest told Morgan that
the famous altar had been stolen by another
pirate, and even convinced Morgan to donate
handsomely for its replacement. Morgan is said
to have told the priest, ‘I don’t know why, but
I think you are more of a pirate than I am.’
Whatever the truth, the baroque altar was later
moved from the old city to the present site.
PA N A MA C I T Y • • S i g h t s
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PA N A M A C I T Y
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PA N A MA C I T Y • • C e n t r a l Pa n a m a C i t y
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CENTRAL PANAMA CITY
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C e n t r a l Pa n a m a C i t y • • C e n t r a l Pa n a m a C i t y
:
:
:
:
:
:
Mercado de Mariscos.................... 28 B5
Viso 54 ................................................ 29 G4 :
:
:
:
: :
:5 :
INFORMATION
DRINKING ?
: :SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES : :
: :
: ...........14 B4 Lobby.................................................. 30 F4
Autoridad Nacional
Museo Afro-Antilleano
: :del
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Ambiente (ANAM) ........................1
C1 :
Museo de Arte
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Canadian Embassy............................2
F4
Contemporáneo....................15
A4 ENTERTAINMENT
: :
: :
:
:
:
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: Cinemark ......................................... (see 34)
Centro Médico Paitilla.....................3
: : F4
: :
: Sciences
: :
Earl S Tupper Tropical
SLEEPING
Cinemark ......................................... (see 31)
: : i
:
Library........................................... (see 12) Casa de Carmen.........................16 G2 Kinomaxx......................................... (see 33)
Exedra Books.......................................4 G2 Hostal Balboa Bay .....................17 D3
HSBC ATM ............................................5 C3 Hotel Acapulco ..........................18 C3 SHOPPING f
HSBC ATM ............................................6 A4 Hotel Andino ..............................19 C3 Albrook Mall..................................... 31 A2
Instituto Geográfico Nacional
Hotel Caribe ................................20 B3 Mercado de Buhonerías y
(Tommy Guardia)..........................7 E1 Hotel Costa Inn ..........................21 D3
Artesanías ..................................... 32 A4
Main Post Office.................................8 A4 Hotel Marparaíso.......................22 C3 Multicentro Mall ............................. 33 F4
Migración y Naturalización
Hotel Roma.................................. 23 C3 Multiplaza Mall................................ 34 H4
6
(Immigration Office) ....................9 B3 Mamallena................................... 24 C3
Post Office......................................... 10 C3
TRANSPORT
Post Office......................................... 11 C3 EATING @
Albrook Bus Terminal ................... 35 A2
Smithsonian Tropical Research
Caminito de la Empanada .....25 G4 Bicicletas Rali ................................... 36 F4
Institute (STRI) ............................. 12 A3 King's Food.................................. 26 G4 Buses to Albrook Airport &
US Embassy ...................................... 13 D4 Masala Indian Cuisine .............27 E3
Albrook Bus Terminal............... 37 A4
PA N A M A C I T Y
6 66
6
6
lonelyplanet.com
lonelyplanet.com
EL CANGREJO & BELLA VISTA
A
INFORMATION
Business Center..................................1 B4
Dutch Embassy...................................2 C5
Edificio Banco Nacional de
Panamá........................................... (see 4)
El Hombre de la Mancha.................3 B4
German Embassy..........................(see 10)
HSBC .......................................................4 B4
Librería Argosy....................................5 D3
Ministerio de Economia y
Finanzas, Dirección de
Ingresos.............................................6 C4
Panacambios.......................................7 C4
n
Post Office ............................................8
C4
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UK Embassy..........................................9
C6
B
World Trade Center........................10 D6
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D4
A5
B6
A6
B6
SHOPPING f
Flory Saltzman Molas.................... 50 B4
Joyería La Huaca............................. 51 B4
Reprosa .............................................. 52 D4
s)
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AM
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3
ENTERTAINMENT À
Alhambra Cinema.......................... 42
BLG....................................................... 43
Guru .................................................... 44
People ................................................ 45
Pure ..................................................... 46
Restaurante-Bar
Tinajas ............................................ 47
S6is....................................................... 48
Starlight ............................................. 49
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D3
D3
B5
B3
C5
B4
B4
A6
A6
B3
D
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El Pavo Real ...................................... 39 C3
Habibi's .............................................. 40 A6
La Musa del Chai ............................ 41 C2
EATING @
Athens................................................. 24 B5
Crêpes & Waffles.............................25 B6
Eurasia ................................................ 26 A5
La Mar ................................................. 27 D3
La Posta .............................................. 28 B5
Machu Picchu .................................. 29 C3
Madame Chang...............................30 B6
Market................................................. 31 A6
Martín Fierro..................................... 32 C3
New York Bagel Café..................... 33 C2
Niko's Cafe....................................... (see 37)
Ozone.................................................. 34 A6
Petit Paris........................................... 35 C6
Restaurant Matsuei........................36 C3
Supermercado Rey ........................37 C4
Ten Bistro......................................... (see 17)
Wine Bar............................................. 38 B3
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Ancon Expeditions.........................11 B5
Spanish Panama..............................12 C2
Universidad
SLEEPING i
de Panamá
Anita's Inn..........................................13
Baru Lodge........................................14
Bristol ..................................................15
Coral Suites Aparthotel ................16
DeVille Hotel.....................................17
Executive Inn....................................18
Hotel Riande Continental............19
Le Meridien .......................................20
Miramar Inter-Continental..........21
Torres de Alba..................................22
C
B
Toscana Inn....................................... 23 C3
Calle 50 B
2
300 m
0.2 miles
‚
1
0
0
Calle 53 Este
PA N A M A C I T Y
PA N A MA C I T Y • • E l C a n g re j o & B e l l a V i s t a
V
6
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6
6 6
6
76
lonelyplanet.com
The modest Museo de Historia de Panamá (%2286231; Calle 6a Oeste, Palacio Municipal; admission free;
h8:30am-3:30pm Mon-Fri) has a small selection
of exhibits covering Panamanian history from
the colonial period to the modern era.
Parque Natural Metropolitano
Up on a hill to the north of downtown, this
265-hectare national park protects vast expanses of tropical semideciduous forest within
the city limits, and serves as an incredible
wilderness escape from the trappings of the
capital. It has two main walking trails, the
Nature Trail and the Tití Monkey Trail, which join
to form one long loop. The loop is also home
to a 150m-high mirador (lookout) that offers
panoramic views of Panama City, the bay and
the canal all the way to the Miraflores Locks.
Mammals in the park include tití monkeys,
anteaters, sloths and white-tailed deer, while
reptiles include iguanas, turtles and tortoises.
More than 250 known bird species have been
spotted here, and there are fish and shrimp
living in the Río Curundú, which runs along
the eastern side of the park.
The park was the site of an important battle during the US invasion to oust Noriega.
Also of historical significance are the concrete
structures just past the park entrance, which
were used during WWII as a testing and assembly plant for aircraft engines.
The park is bordered on the west and north
sides by Camino de la Amistad and to the
south and east by Corredor Norte; Av Juan
Pablo II runs right through the park. Pick up
a pamphlet for a self-guided tour in Spanish
and English at the visitors center (Map p70; %2325516; admission US$1; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat),
40m north of the park entrance.
Additionally, the Panama Audubon Society
(%224-9371; www.panamaaudubon.org) holds its
monthly meeting at the visitors center from
7:30pm to 9:30pm on the second Thursday of
every month. The meetings are open to the public and often feature interesting speakers. Both
English and Spanish are spoken here. These
meetings provide an excellent opportunity to
get to know some Panamanian bird-watchers
and to learn more about tropical bird species.
An international team of scientists from
the Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute
(STRI) have set up a crane in the park to study
the forest canopy, which is home to a complete
ecosystem 30m to 50m up from the ground.
77
Although the crane was previously off-limits
to the public, Ancon Expeditions (see p296) has
exclusive access to take tourists up to the treetops. This recommended experience provides
an entirely different view of the rainforest.
Book in advance as the number of tourists
allowed up on the crane per day is limited.
Panamá Viejo
Founded on August 15, 1519, by Spanish
conquistador Pedro Arias de Ávila, the city
of Panamá was the first European settlement
along the Pacific. For the next 150 years it
profited mainly from Spain’s famed bullion
pipeline, which ran from Peru’s gold and silver mines to Europe via Panamá. Because of
the amount of wealth that passed through the
city, the Spaniards kept many soldiers here,
and their presence kept the buccaneers away.
In 1671, 1200 pirates led by Henry Morgan
ascended the Río Chagres as far as Venta
de Cruces and then proceeded overland to
Panamá. Although the city was not fortified,
it was protected on three sides by the sea and
marshes, and on the land side was a causeway
with a bridge in its middle to allow tidal water
to pass underneath. But to the bewilderment
of historians, when Morgan and his men
neared the city, the Spanish soldiers left this
natural stronghold and confronted the buccaneers in a hilly area outside town.
It was the first of their many mistakes.
When the two forces met in battle, the
Spanish infantry left their ranks after mistaking a repositioning of some of Morgan’s
men for a retreat. The Spanish soldiers ran
DAY TRIPS FROM PANAMA CITY
Looking to get out of the city for the day?
Here are some author-tested suggestions
(see Map p101).
Laying eyes on the awe-inspiring
Panama Canal (p100)
Spotting feathered friends along Pipeline
Rd in Parque Nacional Soberanía (p103)
Visiting the world-famous tropical
biology center on Isla Barro Colorado
(p106)
Escaping to the flower-dotted island of
Isla Taboga (p107)
Surfing gnarly breaks along the Pacific
Coast (p115)
PA N A M A C I T Y
MUSEO DE HISTORIA DE PANAMÁ
PA N A MA C I T Y • • S i g h t s
6
0
!
6 6
6
6 6
6 6 6
6
PA N A M A C I T Y
78
PA N A MA C I T Y • • S i g h t s
CASCO VIEJO
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SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Club de Clases y Tropas................................... 4 C3
Iglesia de San José............................................. 5 A2
Iglesia y Convento de Santo Domingo ..... 6 B3
Instituto Nacional de Cultura........................ 7 C4
Museo de Arte Religioso Colonial.............(see 6)
Museo de Historia de Panamá................. (see 10)
Museo del Canal Interoceánico.................... 8 B3
Palacio de las Garzas ........................................ 9 C2
Palacio Municipal............................................ 10 B3
Parque Bolívar.................................................. 11 C2
Plaza de Francia............................................... 12 B4
Plaza de la Independencia .......................... 13 B2
Teatro Anita Villalaz..................................... (see 31)
Teatro Nacional ............................................... 14 C3
SLEEPING i
Canal House...................................................... 15
Hospedaje Casco Viejo ................................. 16
Los Cuatro Tulipanes office ........................ 17
Luna's Castle..................................................... 18
Pensión Colón.................................................. 19
B3
A3
C3
B1
A1
Ca
lle
6
Ca
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3a
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INFORMATION
ATP Counter.......................................................(see 3)
French Embassy ................................................. 1 B4
Fundación Danilo Perez.................................. 2 A2
Tourist Police.......................................................3 C3
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Café Coca Cola................................................. 20
Café Per Due ..................................................... 21
Diablo Rosso..................................................... 22
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Frit Arte............................................................... 23
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Granclement..................................................... 24
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B3
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: Relic
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ENTERTAINMENT À
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Panamá .............................................. 30 B1
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Teatro Anita Villalaz....................................... 31 C4
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Karavan............................................................... 32 B3
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after the pirates, leaving a high position for a
gully. French sharpshooters within Morgan’s
band were delighted by the development and
opened fire on the Spaniards from nearby
knolls. The first volley of musket fire dropped
about 100 soldiers, and the Spanish force fell
to pieces. Soon after, nearly everything of
value was either plundered and divvied up
or destroyed by fire.
For the next three centuries, what remained
of the abandoned city – mostly beams and
stone blocks – served as a convenient source
of building materials. Yet most of the remnants of the one-time metropolis were still
intact as recently as 1950, when the limits of
modern Panama City reached the ruins in the
form of a squatter settlement. Unfortunately,
by the time the government declared the ruins
a protected site in 1976 (Unesco followed suit
in 1997), most of the old city had already been
dismantled and overrun.
Today much of Panamá Viejo lies buried under a poor residential neighborhood,
though the ruins are a must-see, even if only
to stand on the hallowed grounds of one of
Central America’s greatest cities.
ORIENTATION & INFORMATION
The ruins of Panamá Viejo are not fenced in,
so you can visit them anytime, though for
safety reasons it’s best to explore the area during the daylight hours. So little of the original
city remains that its size, layout and appearance are the subject of much conjecture.
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PA N A MA C I T Y • • S i g h t s
outer walls, timber roofs, internal wooden
supports and a lack of towers. The adjoining convents had inner courts surrounded
by wooden galleries, and the larger ones had
enclosed gardens and orchards.
Most of the better houses were built from
timber and placed wall to wall, with small
inner courts, open-air kitchens and separate
wings for the servants. Some had groundfloor galleries and balconies, and most had
plain exterior walls. A few of the fancier
homes were built from stone and their ruins
remain. The poor had far simpler dwellings,
usually thatched huts built with inexpensive
materials such as reeds.
Entry cost depends on what you wish to see,
with the higher price including both the museum and a trip up to the mirador (admission
US$3 to US$6, children US$0.50). Children
under eight are not allowed to go up the tower.
The following places are featured on the
Panamá Viejo map, below.
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RUINS
The center of power resided at the Casas Reales
(Royal Houses), a complex ringed by timber
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SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Cabildo de la Ciudad .......................... 1
Casa Alarcón .......................................... 2
Casas de Terrín...................................... 3
Casas Reales........................................... 4
Catedral de Nuestra Señora de
la Asunción......................................... 5
Hospital de San Juan de Dios.......... 6
Iglesia de San José............................... 7
Iglesia y Convento de la
Compañía de Jesús......................... 8
Iglesia y Convento de la
Concepción........................................ 9
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Iglesia y Convento de La
Merced...............................................10 A2
Iglesia y Convento de San
Francisco...........................................11 B2
Iglesia y Convento de Santo
Domingo...........................................12 D2
Mercado Nacional de
Artesanías.......................................(see 16)
Museo de Sitio Panamá Viejo .......13 A2
Puente del Matadero .......................14 A2
Puente del Rey....................................15 D1
Calle
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INFORMATION
ATP Tourism Office..........................(see 13)
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PA N A M A C I T Y
The city was founded on a coastal bar
alongside a shallow cove. The primary government buildings were at the mouth of the
cove, which was rather spacious at the time
and could be used as a port. Panamá was also
home to all of the major Catholic religious
orders – the Franciscans, Dominicans, Jesuits
and Augustines – all of which had churches
and convents in town. The best houses and
most of the convents were built on the narrow
strip of land along the beachfront.
The colonial city seems to have followed a
grid plan, with blocks of various sizes and a
main square (the visible remains of Panamá
Viejo are certainly laid out that way). The lots
tended to be narrow, and the houses often
consisted of two or three stories. The suburbs
that developed to the north and northwest
lacked planning, and there are foundations
of common houses and hovels scattered along
crooked lanes.
It requires a fertile imagination to visualize
the city before the arrival of Captain Morgan
and his men. The churches, some of which
faced the sea, were the most outstanding
buildings. All were rectangular, with stone
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PA N A M A C I T Y
80
PA N A MA C I T Y • • S i g h t s
ramparts and separated from the city proper by
a moat. Within the complex were the customs
house, the royal treasury, a prison and the governor’s house. Despite the obvious historical
importance of the site, past governments have
allowed sections of the property to be used as
a landfill and for horse stables. Only scattered
walls remain of the once impressive structures.
The Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción,
built between 1619 and 1626, is the bestpreserved building of the ruins. In traditional
fashion, it was designed so that its two side
chapels gave the cathedral a crosslike shape
when viewed from the heavens. The bell tower
was at the back of the church and may have
served double duty as a watchtower for the
Casas Reales. The main facade, which faced the
Plaza Mayor, is gone – only the walls remain.
Also facing the Plaza Mayor were the
Cabildo de la Ciudad (City Hall) and the Casas de
Terrín, houses built by one of the city’s wealthiest citizens, Francisco Terrín.
Immediately north of the cathedral are the
massive ruins of Casa Alarcón, the town’s bestpreserved and largest known private residence,
which dates from the 1640s. Just north of the
former residence is the Iglesia y Convento de Santo
Domingo, the best-preserved church of the ruins.
The convent dates from the 1570s, though the
church was built 20 or more years later.
Arriving a decade or so after the Dominican
friars were the Jesuits, who built the Iglesia y
Convento de la Compañía de Jesús, whose stone
ruins are likewise visible today. Just west of
the Jesuits’ facilities are the spacious ruins of
a church and convent, the Iglesia y Convento de
la Concepción, which were erected by the nuns
of Nuestra Señora de la Concepción. Most of
the ruins, which cover the better part of two
blocks, were part of the church – little remains
of the convent.
Between the nuns’ church and the sea
was the city’s sole hospital, the Hospital de
San Juan de Dios. Unfortunately, much of the
hospital’s remains were scattered when Av
Cincuentenario and a side road were put in
not long ago. Also bordering the avenue, two
blocks west of the hospital’s ruins, are the
remains of the Iglesia y Convento de San Francisco,
the facilities erected by the Franciscans. The
church faced the sea and stood on a massive
base.
Continuing two blocks west along Av
Cincuentenario, you’ll arrive at the ruins of
the Iglesia y Convento de La Merced. Erected by the
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Mercedarian friars in the early 17th century,
the buildings actually survived the fire that
swept the city following Morgan’s assault.
However, the church’s facade is missing because the friars dismantled it and moved it
to Casco Viejo, where it can be seen today.
Further west and parallel to the modern
bridge is the Puente del Matadero, a horribly
over-restored stone bridge that took its name
from a nearby slaughterhouse, and which
marked the beginning of the Camino Real to
Portobelo. A much more significant bridge
is the Puente del Rey, which is visible from Av
Cincuentenario near the northern edge of
town. Built in 1617, it may be the oldest standing bridge in the Americas.
About halfway between Puente del Rey and
the Iglesia y Convento de Santo Domingo
lies the Iglesia de San José, which belonged to
the Augustine order. Of special interest here
are the building’s vaulted side chapels, an architectural feature seldom seen in Panama.
MERCADO NACIONAL DE ARTESANÍAS
Panamá Viejo buses (US$0.25) coming from
Plaza Cinco de Mayo will drop you off at the
Mercado Nacional de Artesanías (National Artisans
Market; Av 6 Sur; h9am-6pm), which recently
moved. Now it’s behind the first remnant of
ruins as you approach from Panama City.
MUSEO DE SITIO PANAMÁ VIEJO
The Museo de Sitio Panamá Viejo (Av 6 Sur; admission
US$3; h9am-5pm) contains a rather impressive
scale model of Panamá Viejo prior to 1671
as well as a few surviving colonial artifacts.
All signs are in Spanish, though a brochure
and tape recording recount the site’s history
in English.
The Causeway
At the Pacific entrance to the Panama Canal, a
2km palm-tree-lined calzada (causeway) connects the four small islands of Naos, Culebra,
Perico and Flamenco to the mainland. The
Causeway is the popular place to be in the
early morning and late afternoon, when residents head here to walk, jog, skate and cycle,
or simply escape the noise and pollution of the
city. The Causeway also offers sweeping views
of the skyline and the old city, and you can
see flocks of brown pelicans diving into the
sea here most times of the year. Others arrive
here simply to savor the pleasant breeze at one
of the Causeway’s many restaurants and bars.
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PA N A MA C I T Y • • S i g h t s
81
After sacking Panamá in 1671, Captain Henry Morgan burnt the city to the ground, massacred its
inhabitants and made off with the richest booty in the Americas, though his infamous exploits
didn’t end there. Because his actions violated a peace treaty between England and Spain, Morgan
was arrested and conducted to England the following year, but he was acquitted on the questionable account that he had no prior knowledge of the treaty. In 1674 Morgan was knighted
before departing for Jamaica to take up the post of Lieutenant Governor.
Although Captain Morgan is best remembered for his nefarious exploits at sea, the last several years of his life in Port Royal (the ‘Sodom of the New World’) is the stuff of legends. At the
time, the pirate capital of the Caribbean was known as the richest, nastiest city in the world,
and was famous for its gaudy displays of wealth and loose morals. Here, Morgan spent the last
years of his life spending the riches of Panamá, though the actual events surrounding his death
remain a mystery.
In 1688, at the age of 53, Captain Morgan suddenly died, leaving behind an immense personal
fortune. Although his death has been attributed to tuberculosis and dropsy (edema), the local lore
has it that world’s most infamous pirate simply drank himself to death – it’s fitting that Captain
Morgan’s legacy should live on in the form of syrupy-sweet spiced rum.
At the Causeway entrance, Bikes n More (per
hour from US$3.50; h8am-6pm Sat & Sun) operates a
booth where you can rent a bicycle.
If you don’t have your own vehicle, it’s most
convenient to take a taxi to the Causeway
(US$4 to US$6) and to hail another when
you’re ready to return to town – any of the
restaurants or bars can call one for you.
ISLA FLAMENCO SHOPPING CENTER &
FUERTE AMADOR RESORT & MARINA
At the end of Isla Flamenco, you’ll find one of
the city’s newest attractions, the Fuerte Amador
Resort & Marina (%314-0932; www.fuerteamador.com).
This complex contains a two-story shopping
center, a marina, a cruise-ship terminal and
a number of restaurants and bars. At night,
these open-air spots are a big draw, providing
a fine setting for cocktails or a decent meal.
At the marina, daily boats leave for the
nearby resort island of Isla Taboga (p107).
CENTRO DE EXHIBICIONES MARINAS
Ideal for families, the Centro de Exhibiciones
Marinas (Marine Exhibitions Center; %212-8000, ext
2366; admission US$1; h1-5pm Tue-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat &
Sun), operated by the Smithsonian Tropical
Research Institute (STRI), includes an informative marine museum with signs in
English and Spanish, two small aquariums
and a nature trail through a patch of dry forest
containing sloths and iguanas.
Exhibits include a small six-sided building
with sweeping views of the Bahía de Panamá,
which was built by Noriega for intimate gath-
erings. Today it houses a museum containing
exhibits on the history of Panama’s indigenous cultures.
At the museum you can also learn about
the role that Panama’s marine resources play
in the country’s economy, and the destructive
and wasteful effects of harvesting fish and
shrimp by net. All of the text is illustrated
with high-quality photos.
Outside the museum is something to thrill
ship enthusiasts: large, intelligent illustrations
of vessels that allow visitors to glance out at
the ocean and identify the types of ships waiting to transit the canal. There’s a telescope
that you can use free of charge to peer onto
the boats and get an insight into what it’s like
to be a crew member on these tankers.
Two large aquariums, also part of the marine center, are 50m from the museum. One
contains fish from the Pacific, the other fish
from the Caribbean, allowing you to compare
the two sets. You’ll be struck by the difference –
fish from the Caribbean are much more colorful, and much larger than fish from the Pacific.
Staff on hand can explain to you the reasons
for the differences.
Dry forests once lined Central America’s
Pacific coast. Relatively easy to clear and burn
for agriculture, these forests have now all but
disappeared. However, the forest that you can
see from the center, which lines the shore just
south of the Puente de las Américas, is a surviving patch of dry forest. There’s even some dry
forest near the aquariums – keep your eyes open
for three-toed sloths as well as other wildlife.
PA N A M A C I T Y
CAPTAIN MORGAN
PA N A M A C I T Y
82
PA N A MA C I T Y • • S i g h t s
Museums
Sadly, the establishment and preservation of
museums is not a governmental priority in
Panama City. Those that do exist are mostly
the products of extraordinary efforts by individuals who took it upon themselves to move
a bureaucratic mountain and create institutions in which Panama’s human and natural
histories could be preserved.
Foremost among this select group of individuals was the late Reina Torres de Araúz, the
country’s most distinguished anthropologist.
Before she passed away in 1982 at age 49, she
successfully battled for the creation of seven
museums – including the anthropology museum that bears her name.
The strength of Panama City’s museums
lies not in a single institution or two but in
their variety. In the capital city there are
museums devoted to religious colonial art,
natural science, Panamanian history, contemporary art, the Panama Railroad and the canal.
Unfortunately, signs at all the museums are in
Spanish only, and literature in other languages
generally isn’t available.
In addition to those listed in the Casco
Viejo section (p72), Panama City is home to
several other interesting museums.
Moved to a new location, the Museo
Antropológico Reina Torres de Araúz (Map p70; %2628338; Camino de la Amistad, Curundú; admission US$2; h9am4pm Mon-Fri) shows the rich cultural heritage of
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Panama with a collection of pre-Columbian
artifacts and exhibits. Unfortunately, much
of the best material from this museum is no
longer on display.
The small Museo Afro-Antilleano (Map p74;
%262-5348; cnr Av Justo Arosemena & Calle 24 Este; admission US$1; h8:30am-3:30pm Tue-Sat) has exhibits on
the history of Panama’s West Indian community, particularly their work building the
railroad and later the canal.
Museo de Arte Contemporáneo (Map p74; %2628012; near Av de los Mártires, Ancón; admission free; h9am4pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat, to 3pm Sun) is a privately
owned museum with an excellent collection
of works on paper by Latin American artists,
and the occasional temporary exhibition by a
foreign or national artist.
At the time of publication, construction was well underway on the Museo de la
Biodiversidad (Museum of Biodiversity; www.biomuseo
panama.org; Causeway), Panama’s new landmark
museum with extensive botanical gardens.
World-renowned architect Frank Gehry, who
designed the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao,
Spain, designed this controversial structure of
crumpled multicolor forms. Located near the
tip of the Causeway, it is slated to open in 2011.
Panama Canal Murals
The story of the monumental effort to build
the Panama Canal is powerfully depicted in
murals mounted in the rotunda of the Panama
THE SECRET LIFE OF THE CAUSEWAY
All four of the Causeway islands once comprised Fort Grant, which was established in 1913 to
guard the southern entrance to the canal. Between 1913 and WWII, the USA made Fort Grant
into the most powerful defense complex in the world.
In 1928 two 14-inch guns with ranges up to 44km were brought to Panama. Mounted on railway carriages, they could be moved across the isthmus via the Panama Railroad to defend either
entrance to the canal (the Pacific-side emplacement for the railroad guns was on Culebra). You
can still see the tracks today on the driveway leading up to the Centro de Exhibiciones Marinas.
The concrete rooms nearby, now used by marine-center staff, once housed the guns’ ammunition.
In 1941 the Japanese assault on Pearl Harbor showed that carrier-based aircraft could attack
successfully far beyond the range of artillery. Suddenly obsolete, many of the big guns were
retired from service even before the end of WWII. However, in 1942 the US military was still
determined to bulk up their defenses, and paid the enormous cost of US$400,000 to build a
command post on Isla Flamenco.
The Causeway, its four islands and a chunk of the peninsula leading to the Causeway, were
turned over to Panama in October 1979 in compliance with the Torrijos-Carter Treaty of 1977.
Today, part of the Fuerte Amador shopping center is built on a massively protected bombproof
structure that was needed ‘for use in case of emergency and vital to the security of important
data,’ according to the US general who ordered its construction. Even today, the US military will
not disclose what data was so important that it needed to be stored at the center of a rock island.
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Baha’i House of Worship
On the outskirts of Panama City, 11km northeast of the city center on the Vía Transístmica,
the white-domed Baha’i House of Worship (%2311137; h10am-6pm) looms like a giant egg atop
the crest of a hill. The inside is surprisingly
beautiful, with a fresh breeze always present.
The Baha’i House of Worship serves all of
Latin America.
Information about the faith is available at the
temple in English and Spanish; readings from
the Baha’i writings (also in English and Spanish)
are held Sunday mornings at 10am. Any bus to
Colón can let you off on the highway, but it’s a
long walk up the hill. A taxi from Panama City
costs around US$20, plus waiting time.
83
COURSES
Dance Courses
You can try open-air salsa dancing at Parque
Recreativo Omar (see Map p70), classes run
every Saturday at 8:30am. The cost is US$1.
To practice, check out Havana Panamá (p94)
in Casco Viejo.
Language Courses
Located in the suburban El Dorado neighborhood, the Institute for Spanish Language Studies
(ILERI; Map p70; %260-4424; http://isls.com/panama; Camino
de la Amistad) offers four hours of one-on-one in-
struction per day, five days a week. Costs start
at US$395 for the first week (including lodging,
meals, trips and activities), and then decreases
with each subsequent week. The weekly rate
without lodging starts at US$265.
Language school Spanish Panama (Map p76;
%213-3121; www.spanishpanama.com; Edificio Americana
No 1A, Vía Argentina), gets strong reviews from
travelers. It has a similar structure to ILERI’s:
four hours of one-on-one classes daily and
dorm accommodations for US$375 per week
(long-term discounts are available).
PANAMA CITY FOR CHILDREN
Panama City has a variety of attractions to enthrall and entertain kids. The city’s new Cinta
Costera has waterfront paths and a playground.
The setting also hosts sporting events and occasional fairs. Another park option is Parque
Recreativo Omar, the local answer to Central
Park, with greens that were once a golf course.
A perfect reward for a day well spent is
ice cream, and Casco Viejo has a parlor,
Granclement (p89), that even mom and dad
would beg to visit.
Great rainforest excursions abound. At the
Rainforest Discovery Center (p106), kids can walk
short paths and check out the wildlife from the
top of a 32-meter tower. Other good options
include visiting Summit Botanical Gardens & Zoo
(p103), with kid-focused programs, a small
zoo and trails. Alongside huge canal boats,
jungle boats cruise along Lago Gatún (p115)
fishing for peacock bass or just spotting
troupes of monkeys, birds and other animals.
Another interesting day trip, Isla Taboga
(p107) has plenty of sand to play in and a
cool ferry ride that’s a blast for small travelers.
For more adventure, families can visit an
Emberá village in the Parque Nacional Soberanía
(p103), tour the old cannon-lined forts in
Portobelo (p236), or take a moderate hike
PA N A M A C I T Y
Canal Administration Building (Map p70; Balboa; admission free; h7:30am-4:15pm Mon-Fri).
The murals tell the story of the canal’s construction through four main scenes: the digging of Gaillard Cut at Gold Hill, where the
canal passes through the Continental Divide;
the building of the spillway of the Gatún Dam,
which dammed the Río Chagres and created
Lago Gatún; the construction of one of the
giant lock gates (the canal uses some 80 of
these gates); and the construction of the
Miraflores Locks near the Pacific entrance
to the canal. A frieze located immediately
below the murals presents a panorama of the
excavation of Gaillard Cut.
The murals were created by William B
Van Ingen of New York, an outstanding
artist who had achieved considerable fame
for his murals in the Library of Congress in
Washington, DC, and for those in the US
Mint in Philadelphia. Van Ingen agreed to
produce the murals for US$25 per sq ft; the
finished murals cover about 1000 sq ft.
According to a leaflet at the administration
building, Van Ingen and two assistants first
made charcoal sketches of canal construction activities during two visits to Panama in
1914. Van Ingen then painted the murals on
separate panels in his New York studio. The
panels were shipped to Panama and installed
during a three-day period in January 1915
under the artist’s personal supervision. The
paintings have the distinction of being the
largest group of murals by an American artist
on display outside the USA.
The building is closed on weekends, but
guards will usually let you in between 10am
and 2:30pm if you ask them politely.
PA N A MA C I T Y • • C o u r s e s
PA N A M A C I T Y
84
PA N A MA C I T Y • • Fe s t i v a l s & E v e n t s
through Parque National Soberanía (p103), or
even just in town at Parque Natural Metropolitano
(p77) where the chances of spotting a monkey
or toucan are pretty good.
The Panama Canal Railway (p233) that links
the two oceans provides a lovely journey along
the canal and through rainforest. Kids might
also enjoy a visit to the Miraflores Locks (p100),
especially since the new museum there has
lots of eye-catching multimedia exhibitions
and is hands-on in parts.
If you need a respite from the heat (or the
rain), head to Centro de Exhibiciones Marinas
(p81) to get close to Panama’s amazing underwater world. Or if all else fails, stroll down
to Multicentro Mall (p95) – a mall with dozens
of shops and restaurants, a movie theater and
an internet cafe.
FESTIVALS & EVENTS
Although not as famous as the celebrations
in Rio de Janeiro or New Orleans, Carnaval
in Panama City is celebrated with the same
level of unrestrained merriment and wild
abandon during the four days preceding Ash
Wednesday. From Saturday until the following Tuesday, work is abandoned and masks,
costumes and confetti are brought to the fore.
For 96 hours, almost anything goes.
The festivities formally begin with a coronation ceremony on Friday, during which a
Carnaval queen and her attendants are chosen from candidates representing a variety of
social clubs, volunteer organizations, neighborhoods and private groups. Throughout
her reign, the queen presides over all official
receptions and is the center of attention in
the daily parades scheduled each afternoon.
Officially, the craziness starts slowly, with
a small parade on Saturday that consists of
little more than the queen and her court.
Unofficially, the cork is way out of the bottle
by then. Vía España fills with people, and
everyone is in high spirits and partying in an
atmosphere that is sexually charged and free
of class distinctions. Music pours from all directions and spontaneous dancing breaks out
everywhere. Masqueraded characters cavort
among the crowd. Colorful street vendors
wander through the throngs of people, and
improvised entertainment abounds. The party
moves indoors at night – into cantinas, private
clubs and hotels – where combos play AfroCuban and typical Panamanian music, and
the dancing and drinking continue till dawn.
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The celebration, the origins of which have
been obscured with the passage of time,
kicks into a higher gear on Sunday, when
folk-dance groups decked out in Panama’s
national costumes join the queen and her attendants in the afternoon parade down Vía
España, traveling from near Vía Brasil to near
Av Federico Boyd (the exact beginning and
ending points vary from year to year). To cool
the sunbaked masses, fire and garden hoses
are turned on the crowd at every opportunity.
The amount of water sprayed on party-goers
during Carnaval in Panama City during these
four festive days equals the amount the city
uses during the previous four months.
The madness peaks on Shrove Tuesday
with the biggest parade of all. Floats of all sizes
rule the avenue, separated by bands of gaily
dressed people walking slowly in themed formations – not the least conspicuous of which
is the traditional entourage of transvestites.
Most of them carry a razor in each hand as a
warning to macho types that a punch thrown
at them will not go unanswered.
Carnaval officially closes with the first rays
of sunlight on Wednesday morning, when the
hardiest celebrants appear on the beach of the
Bahía de Panamá to bury a sardine in the sand –
a symbolic gesture intended to convey the end
of worldly pleasures for the Lenten season.
A much newer tradition, the Panama Jazz
Festival (www.panamajazzfestival.com) is gaining momentum as one of the biggest musical events
in Panama, drawing hundreds of thousands of
spectators for a weeklong festival held all over
the city. It’s held annually in mid-January. For
more information, see p94.
SLEEPING
Panama City has myriad options for visitors,
ranging from a very simple cell to dens of
luxury.
As Casco Viejo sees extensive renovation,
this old-world charmer is becoming an excellent option for lodging. Advantages include
the great number of restaurants and cafes and
its walkability.
La Exposición is home to a number of standard midrange hotels. This central workingclass neighborhood bustles at daytime but you
probably would end up elsewhere for dinner
and outings.
Fast-paced, modern Panama City is best
experienced in the neighborhoods of Bella
Vista and El Cangrejo, chock-full of soaring
lonelyplanet.com
Casco Viejo
The following accommodations are featured
on Map p78.
Hospedaje Casco Viejo (%211-2027; www.hospedaje
cascoviejo.com; Calle 8a Oeste; dm US$9, d without/with
bathroom US$16/18; pi) Every inch of this old
hostel has seen heavy use, from the worn tiled
bathrooms to bowing beds, but it’s hard to
get picky at these prices. The best room is
the dormitory, with well-spaced single beds.
While service is laissez-faire, perks include
a communal kitchen, wi-fi and an open-air
courtyard. It’s on a quiet side street next to
the Iglesia de San José.
Pensión Colón (%228-8506; cnr Calles 12 Oeste & B; s/d
US$21/24, without bathroom US$11/14; p) Originally
built to house Panama Canal workers, this old
hotel is a Graham Greene fantasy, with rickety clapboard passageways and peeling paint,
along with incredible bay views. Fortunately,
it recently passed into new management and
improvements are imminent.
Luna’s Castle (%262-1540; www.lunascastlehostel.com;
Calle 9a Este; dm/d/tr incl breakfast US$12/28/36; iW)
Housed in a creaky, colonial mansion near the
water’s edge, Luna’s Castle masterfully blends
historical Spanish colonial architecture with
funky, laid-back backpacker vibes. Ample
dorms are stacked with bunks and the shared
bathrooms get a frequent scrub. Perks include
internet, laundry service and a basement movie
house showing popular flicks. A bit looney and
very friendly, this is the kind of hostel people
keep talking about long after their trip ends. In
the evenings, the attached Relic Bar is the best
pick-up joint in the city for anyone smitten
with an incurable case of wanderlust.
Los Cuatro Tulipanes (%211-0877; www.loscuatro
tulipanes.com; office Av Central btwn Calles 3 & 4; apt from
US$165; pai) Ideal for travelers yearning
for a little independence and privacy, the ‘four
tulips’ are in fact a set of luxury apartments
in distinct Casco Viejo locations. While each
is unique, all are elegant, restored spaces with
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features like handpainted tiles, hardwood
details, high ceilings and private terraces.
Some have a concierge. Kitchens come fully
equipped, and maid service, wi-fi, cable TV
and coffee and tea are included.
Canal House (%228-1907; www.canalhousepanama.
com; cnr Calle 5A Oeste & Av A; ste from US$221; pai)
Exclusive and elegant, this grande dame B&B
is where Agent 007 sleeps when in town filming. Indeed, it is the city’s top boutique offering. The three luxury bedrooms feature
fine details such as blown-glass lamps and
embroidered pillows. Shared spaces are lovely
and service rates impeccable. Though it’s in
the Casco, it feels removed, with climatecontrolled rooms and double-glass windows
that seal out all street noise (and yes, part of
the ambience). Green-gold certified, the hotel
recycles and separates waste, in addition to
using energy-saving lights and biodegradable
detergents. They also work with the Cal y
Canto Foundation to train and employ Casco
residents.
La Exposición
Central La Exposición is within arm’s reach of
the city highlights, but itself is a very workingclass area not frequented by outsiders for
nightlife. Given that foot traffic dwindles in
the evening, it’s best to take taxis at night. The
following accommodations are featured on
Map p74, unless otherwise noted.
Mamallena (%6538-9745; www.mamallena.com; Calle
Maria Icaza; dm/d incl breakfast US$11/28; aiW) If
looking for a small, intimate hostel, Mamallena
should be your top pick. Run by Stuart, an
over-working, over-playing Aussie, this place
nails the mark on service. Desk service is 24hours and guests get free wi-fi and computer
use, pancake breakfasts and access to a DVD
library. High-ceiling dorms have air-con at
night and the cute motel-style doubles offer
considerable privacy. The house itself is homey
and cool, on a residential street that’s somehow survived the wrecking ball. The neighborhood is rough around the edges but in walking
distance of many hot spots. You can arrange
tours and sailboat trips here too.
Hotel Acapulco (%225-3832; Calle 30 Este; s/d
US$39/42; pa) A discernible step up from
the standard hotel fare that runs chockablock
in this part of town, the Acapulco offers a certain no-nonsense style. Spotless rooms offer
air-con, hot-water showers and balconies off
the French doors (make sure yours locks).
PA N A M A C I T Y
steel and glass. Hotels here tend toward costly,
though you can’t beat the views from high up.
San Francisco is another well-heeled neighborhood that is developing B&B-type options.
For those who place less emphasis on
nightlife and more on the quiet life, outlying
neighborhoods have excellent B&B options.
These include the former US-occupied neighborhoods of Clayton, Albrook, Ancón and
Amador, which are located in the Canal Zone.
PA N A MA C I T Y • • S l e e p i n g
PA N A M A C I T Y
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PA N A MA C I T Y • • S l e e p i n g
Hotel Andino (%225-1162; Calle 35 Este; s/d US$39/50;
pa) Rooms at the Andino come up short
on charm, but they’re big, clean and equipped
like a start-up apartment. Request a king-size
and you can also get a two-burner stove for
some self-catering adventures. If you don’t
feel like leaving the hotel, there’s a bar and
restaurant, making it a convenient choice to
crash overnight between bus departures.
Hotel Marparaíso (%227-6767; Calle 34 Este; s/d incl
breakfast US$40/50; paiW) If counting pennies, consider that your stay here includes a
free airport pickup, satellite TV, wi-fi and
continental breakfast. Rooms have bright
tropical bedspreads and smell a bit too much
of deodorizer. Try for one on the 4th floor or
higher. A chill bar and restaurant is a good
place to chat with other travelers.
Hotel Caribe (%225-0404; www.caribehotel.net;
cnr Calle 28 Este & Av Perú; d/tr incl breakfast US$52/75;
pas) Psychedelic and slightly retro –
by default rather than design – this large
casino-hotel is good on price but short on
atmosphere. Its best feature is a rooftop pool
overlooking the city. While central, the neighborhood tends to be a little rough.
Hotel Costa Inn (%227-1522; www.hotelcostainn.com;
Av Perú near Calle 39 Este; d US$55; paiWs) A
discernible step up in quality and service, the
Hotel Costa Inn offers no-nonsense rooms in
a part of town famous for surprises. Goodvalue amenities include a gym and pool. Try
for a room on the 4th floor; they’re notably
better than those on the lower levels. Euros
are accepted. Guests get a free airport transfer
and there’s a travel agency on the premises.
Hotel Roma (%227-3844; www.hotelromaplaza.com;
Av Justo Arosemena at Calle 33 Este; s/d incl breakfast US$72/83;
pais) Relatively spacious and updated,
Roma offers clean, no-fuss rooms a world
beyond the drab interiors of its neighboring
hotels. If you’re travelling with the little ones,
the family-style suites are great value and the
rooftop pool will keep everyone’s temperatures down. A pleasant restaurant-bar on the
1st floor serves up a good mix of Panamanian
favorites and Western standards.
Miramar Inter-Continental (Map p76; %214-1000;
www.miramarpanama.com; Av Balboa near Av Federico Boyd;
d/tr US$330/350; pas) Once the only posh
digs in Panama City, this landmark hotel has
hosted the likes of Hillary Clinton, Jimmy
Carter and Mick Jagger (separately, we believe). Gorgeous guest rooms brim with all
the creature comforts. Amenities include a
lonelyplanet.com
piano lounge, spa and workout center, beauty
salon, tennis courts and an enormous pool
complete with its own island. Windows face
either the gleaming expanse of the Bahía de
Panamá or the shimmering towers of the
financial district. Since the addition of the
Camino Costero, it is a bit marooned between
traffic lanes.
El Cangrejo & Bella Vista
As central as it gets, these neighborhoods have
no lack of restaurants or bars within walking
distance. However, it is also one of the noisier
spots in town, with snaking traffic and honking horns dominating the daytime hours. All
of the following accommodations are featured
on Map p76, unless otherwise noted.
BUDGET
Anita’s Inn (%213-3121; www.hostelspanama.com; Av 2a
B Norte; dm/s/d without bathroom US$13/33/39; ia)
Affiliated with Spanish Panama (p83), this
student guesthouse occupies a plain peach
building. While the location is good, the rooms
could use some love and personal presence.
Casa de Carmen (Map p74; %263-4366; www.lacasa
decarmen.com; Calle 1a de Carmen 32, El Carmen; dm/s/d
without bathroom US$12/30/35, d with bathroom US$55;
pai) Located in a cozy colonial near
Vía Brasil, this congenial home is lovely and
sought-after. Fresh rooms have high ceilings,
warm incandescent light and tiled bathrooms
with scalloped sinks. Guests of all ages congregate in the communal kitchen, lounge area
or on the lush hammock patio. The owners
offer a wealth of knowledge about the city and
countryside. Be sure to book ahead.
Hostal Balboa Bay (Map p74; %227-6182; Calle 39
Este No 21; dm incl breakfast US$13, s/d with air-con US$30/40;
ai) Though quiet and clean, this central
hostel gets less traffic than the competition.
Service may not be a strong suit, but doubles
are ample and airy. The dorm has single beds
lined up in a tight row. There’s a small kitchen
facility and wi-fi costs $5 extra.
MIDRANGE & TOP END
Baru Lodge (%393-2340; www.barulodge.com; Calle 2nda
Norte H-7, El Carmen; s/d incl breakfast US$55/88; ai)
Tasteful and cordial, this subdued inn sits
on a residential street central to the action.
Rooms are sleek and modern, with subdued
colors and soft lighting. Cable TV, wi-fi, aircon and air purifiers are among the perks.
The garden patio has wicker seating, where
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PA N A MA C I T Y • • S l e e p i n g
87
happens poolside – grab a cocktail and watch
it all swirl by.
Sheraton Hotel (Map p70; %270-0477; www.caesar
-panama.com; cnr Calles 52 & Aquilino de la Guardia; s/d incl
breakfast US$105/115; pai) Bustling and ef-
park.com; Calle 77 Este near Vía Israel, San Francisco; d incl breakfast US$260; pas) This gigantic hotel is like
ficient, this business hotel is centrally located
in El Cangrejo with an endless array of prim
white rooms. While rooms are definitely
too skinny, we like it because the service is
friendly and caring. It’s also the secret spot in
the city for outstanding American breakfasts
at the 24-hour cafe.
Toscana Inn (%265-0018; www.toscanainnhotel.com;
a slice of Vegas transplanted to Panama City:
rococo, bodacious and stacked with services –
it even has the casino, but is short an Elvis
impersonator. There’s also an athletic club and
spa, swimming pool, business center, dance
club and mall. There are 361 suites on offer
here, each of varying shape and size, though all
of them boast great views of the soaring skyline.
DeVille Hotel (%206-3100; www.devillehotel.com.pa;
Calle 1a A Norte; d incl breakfast US$108; paiWs)
The best of the bunch on this hotel-lined
street, this newish addition has good service
and a modern look and feel. Beds have firm
mattresses and brocade covers in ample rooms
with flat-screen TVs and leather sofas. You
can get away on the 6th-floor terrace, and
facilities include an onsite business center,
wi-fi and a nice adjoining cafe.
Coral Suites Aparthotel (%269-3898; www.coral
suites.net; Calle D; s/d US$110/132; pai) This
all-suites hotel is serviceable for traveling executives who require their amenities, or longterm visitors in need of more than a hotel
room. Suites are unremarkable yet functional,
with spacious bathrooms, bouncy mattresses
and fully equipped kitchens. Staff is pleasant
and guests have use of a full gym, business
center, and 24-hour rooftop pool.
Torres de Alba (%269-7770; www.torresdealba.com.
pa; Av Eusebio A Morales; s/d/tr US$119/129/139; pas)
These spacious rooms occupy a modern hotel
tower in an ultraconvenient location. Service
can be a little flat but the rooms feel nice, with
marble bathrooms that feature fine fixtures
and hot-water massage showers. Amenities include a business center, gym and rooftop pool.
A second tower is soon to be added next door.
Hotel Riande Continental (%265-5114; www.hoteles
riande.com; Calle Ricardo Arias & Vía España; d from US$149;
pas) This well-located upscale hotel has
that swinging, tropical style more common
to Havana than Panama, thanks to the open
architecture, cool breezes and abundance of
fresh-cut flowers. The rooms themselves have
four-poster federalist-style beds and enough
space to do somersaults, though you’ll be disappointed if you get a room in the old tower. If
you can afford it, upgrade to a suite and you’ll
be treated to eye-popping skyline views from
the sitting area, the bed and even the walk-in
closet. Of course, the real action at the Riande
Av Beatriz Miranda Cabal near Calle 50 A Este; ste from US$275;
pai) The boutique concept is executed
impeccably at this sweetheart of a hotel that has
won a devoted clientele for its classy, tasteful
digs and sterling service. While it’s comfortable
and functional enough for the most distinguished executive travelers, it’s also undeniably romantic – a hard balance to strike. All
of the 33 rooms are suites and offer luxury par
excellence. Among the features in your beautifully appointed room, expect to find antique
Thai dressers, glistening with inlaid mother of
pearl; marble-topped antique tables set with
Louis XV chairs; and the finest-quality USmade mattresses with custom bed linen made
of Egyptian cotton and goose-feather pillows.
Bristol (% 265-7844; www.thebristol.com; Calle
Aquilino de la Guardia; d US$369; pai) Intimate
and elegant, the Bristol marks the difference
the moment the door is swept open for you.
Oriental carpets, flamboyant orchids and
precious woods abound, and that’s just the
lobby. Rooms are smart and stylish, with
some four-poster beds, comfortable chairs
and cable internet. The acclaimed restaurant
has an award-winning chef whose take on
Panamanian cuisine infuses a modern touch.
Other five-star amenities include a 24-hour
butler service and free mobile-phone loan.
Le Meridien (%297-3200; www.starwoodhotels.com;
cnr Calle Uruguay & Av Balboa; d US$380, ste from US$550;
pais) Created by 100 artists, there’s cool
digital art and even birdsong in the elevator. Yet
while daring and innovative, some details of this
luxury hotel simply aren’t thought out. Rooms
have laminated wood walls and furniture that
seems a bit cheap given the all-out setting. A
little Le Mediocre. But the rooftop pool arguably sports the most delicious view of the city
skyline. For further pampering, there’s a Clarins
spa onsite and a swish fusion restaurant.
PA N A M A C I T Y
continental breakfasts are served, and soon
will have a pool.
Executive Inn (%265-8011; www.executivehotel
PA N A M A C I T Y
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PA N A MA C I T Y • • E a t i n g
San Francisco
Similar to Bella Vista, San Francisco is a central, busy location with the added perk of having the biggest green space in this part of the
city – Parque Recreativo Omar.
oHostal Casa Margarita (Map p70; %3945557; www.hostalcasamargarita.com; Casa 97, Calle
Los Claveles; s/d/tr/q incl breakfast US$66/77/110/132;
pai) Irresistibly cozy and chic, this is a
great addition to the Panama City B&B scene.
Rooms in this stucco house are smart and
simple, with colorful touches, flat-screen TVs
and minifridges. A huge garden and breakfast
patio offers ample space to lounge or dally
over a complete breakfast with fresh fruit.
Guests also get kitchen use and wi-fi, but the
real treasure here is the warm Venezuelan
family attentive to your every need.
Canal Zone
All of the following accommodations are featured on Map p70.
Hostel de Clayton (%317-1634; www.hosteldeclayton.
com; Edificio 605B, Calle Guanabana; dm US$14, d with/without
bathroom US$40/35; pai) Reminiscent of an
army barracks, this friendly hostel is located
on the site of the former US army base of
Clayton, a well-heeled residential area. The
rooms and amenities here are perfectly suited
to the budget traveler, but for those without a
rental car or the budget for taxis, the location
leaves you adrift in suburbia.
Hostal Amador Familiar (% 314-1251; www.
hostalamadorfamiliar.com; Casa 1519, Calle Akee, Balboa;
dm incl breakfast US$15, d with fan/air-con US$30/35
paiW) An excellent budget option,
this big yellow canal house offers airy, highceilinged bedrooms and a private garden
with a dining patio and open-air kitchen.
Breakfast comes with cereal or eggs, toast
and coffee. Tiled rooms with rod iron beds
and sashed windows sport the quirks and
creaks of old buildings. The location is just
off the causeway, a US$3 taxi ride from the
center.
Canal Inn (%314-0112; www.canal-inn.com; Casa
7, Calle Ernesto J Castillero, Balboa; s/d/tr incl breakfast
US$77/88/99; paiWs) Catering mostly
to couples and older independent travelers,
this personable inn offers excellent service
and a selection of snug, bright rooms. Some
mattresses are worthier than others. The best
room is No 17, sporting its own balcony.
While the ethnic decor gets a little overly enthusiastic, it’s still a sweet and relaxing spot.
lonelyplanet.com
The quiet neighborhood is ideal for jogging
or strolling out to the causeway.
La Estancia (% 314-1417; www.bedandbreakfast
panama.com; Casa 35, Quarry Heights, Ancón; d incl breakfast US$83; piWa) Perched atop Cerro
Ancón and surrounded by tropical flora and
fauna, La Estancia is a small cement apartment building converted into a tranquil B&B.
Rooms are clean and uncluttered but slim
on personality. Breakfasts are excellent, best
enjoyed on the patio while gazing upon the
Puente de las Américas. It’s a US$5 taxi ride
to the center of Panama City.
Albrook Inn (%315-1789; www.albrookinnpanama.
com.pa; Calle Hazelhurst 14, Albrook; s/d incl breakfast
US$99/110; pa) Set amid lush greenery and
removed from the chaos of downtown, this
lodging near Albrook airport aspires toward
country inn but feels a bit lackluster. The location is mostly ideal if you have an early morning domestic flight. Motel-style rooms have
modern decor and flat-screen TVs but could
be roomier. A kidney-shaped pool spruces
up the garden, perhaps the sole feature that
makes the inn warrant its price tag.
Country Inn & Suites (%211-4500; www.country
inns.com/panamacanalpan; cnr Avs Amador & Pelicano; d/
ste US$135/149; pas) In a peaceful setting
on the water overlooking the canal, this
Panamanian installment of the Americanowned Country Inn is reminiscent of a retirement community in Panama City, Florida.
Cookie-cutter architecture aside, the rooms
are fitted out with all the trimmings. The private balconies overlooking the Puente de las
Américas in the distance are a nice touch.
There’s also an enormous swimming pool
complete with hot tub, which casts a resortlike
ambience on the whole property.
EATING
Boasting the most innovative contemporary
cuisine of Central America, Panama City is a
paradise for those who love to dine out. There
are literally hundreds of places to eat, from
holes in the wall to garden bistros. Reflecting
its large immigrant population, Panama City
also offers an enticing variety of cuisines from
every corner of the globe.
In the past, Casco Viejo was the best place
in the city for budget travelers to find a cheap
plate of rice and beans and whatever meat was
cooking out back. Today, however, the urban
renewal of the district has attracted a number of
boutique eateries and European-inspired cafes.
lonelyplanet.com
Casco Viejo
The following eateries are featured on Map p78,
unless otherwise noted. You can also find nice
restaurants (they tend to come and go) around
Parque Bolívar with outdoor seating on the
plaza. Plaza Hererra is going in a similar direction though it’s more grunge than glamour.
BUDGET
Café Coca Cola (Av Central; plates US$1-3; h7:30am-11pm) A
neighborhood institution, this old-school diner
comes complete with chess-playing señoras and
no-nonsense waitresses. Air-conditioning and
TVs broadcasting soccer matches seal its status
as a den of the working class. Of course, the real
reason you’re here is to eat out without breaking
the bank on hearty platefuls of rice, beans and
the featured meat of the day.
Granclement (Av Central; gelato US$2.50-3.50; hnoon8pm) Pure pleasure defines these intense tropical
fruit gelatos and intense, creamy flavors such
as basil, orange and chocolate, and ginger. A
few scoops of these fussy French creations will
sweeten a leisurely stroll through the Casco.
oMercado de Mariscos (Map p74; Av Balboa;
mains US$2.50-8; hlunch Mon-Sat) Above a bristling fish market in a new building donated
by Japan, this unassuming restaurant is the
place to get your seafood fix. Ceviche starts at
US$2.50; you can also get a whole fried fish
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TASTY & TO GO
Admittedly, Panama City is not much of
a takeout town, but any of these goodies
could satisfy an urge to brown bag a picnic to the Cinta Costera, Parque Recreativo
Omar or Casco Antiguo, for US$8 or less:
Baguettes and croissants at bakery
and cafe Petit Paris (Map p76; Marbella;
h6:30am-8:30pm)
Shrimp chow mein at Lung Fung
(Map
p70; Av Periodista & Vía Transístmica) in
Chinatown
Spinach or spicy beef empanadas at
Caminito de la Empanada (Map p74;
Punta Paitilla; h7:30am-7:30pm),
Argentine-style snacks
Chicken frenke, like a naan sandwich,
at King’s Food (Map p74; Punta Paitilla;
hnoon-7pm Sat & Sun), also an Indian
market
Wine, cheese and deli goods at Super
Gourmet (Map p78; Av A; h7am-7pm MonSat, 10am-3pm Sun)
with salad (US$5). The cavernous bowls of ‘Get
Up Lazarus’ soup are also worth it, if only for
the name (we think it cures a hangover too).
Super Gourmet (Av A; sandwiches US$3.50-9; h7am7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-3pm Sun; i) Stocking gourmet
goods that range from wine to wasabi peas,
this is the perfect pre-picnic stop. You can also
grab soup or a baguette deli sandwich with
roasted chicken and peppers, pastrami or three
cheeses; the half-portion is probably enough.
Diablo Rosso (Av A; lunch US$3.50-6; h9am-7pm MonSat) This art cafe with biting social commentary and quirky folk art would be perfectly at
home in Buenos Aires’ Palermo. You can also
enjoy a frothy cup of cappuccino, cheesy arepas (savory corn cakes) piled high with eggs,
hearty vegetarian soup or spinach quesadillas. Check for art openings or Tuesday night
dinner-and-a-movie.
Frit Arte (Av Central; set menu US$3.80; h8am-4pm
Mon-Sat) A fine lunchtime fix, this casual cafe
offers a cheap changing menu with a mix of
home-cooked and healthy dishes ranging
from chicken and pineapple brochettes to
spinach salad or roast beef. You can also get
breakfast, a variety of vegetarian dishes and
fritura (fried food) such as gourmet carimañolas (deep-fried rolls with meat and yucca)
PA N A M A C I T Y
The neighborhood of La Exposición reflects
its working-class roots, while Bella Vista, the
self-proclaimed restaurant district, is the best
spot in the city for lightening the wallet and
satisfying the taste buds.
With so many salaried earners on their
lunch break, the banking district of El Cangrejo
is home to a number of pricey eateries. They
also tend to be slightly more conservative and
less trendy than the Bella Vista offerings.
Owing to the wealth of city denizens and
the popularity of dining out, Panama City is
the only place in the country where reservations are a good idea. Although you can probably get a table most days of the week, don’t
even think about just showing up on Friday
or Saturday night without phoning ahead.
For groceries and self-catering, stop by the
24-hour Supermercado Rey, which has several
locations throughout the city, including one in
El Cangrejo, and another inside the El Dorado
Mall. Panama City is also home to a number of
street vendors selling everything from shaved
ices to grilled chicken or empanadas.
PA N A MA C I T Y • • E a t i n g
PA N A M A C I T Y
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PA N A MA C I T Y • • E a t i n g
stuffed with gouda or grilled arepas. Service
is superfriendly and the walls are lined with
kooky crafts and art for sale.
Café Per Due (Av A; pizza US$5-8; h9am-10pm Tue-Sun)
Our pick for a quick bite, this casual Italianrun eatery serves scrumptious thin-crust pizzas. Check out the bacon and blue cheese or
the fresh tomato, basil and garlic. Mozzarella is
not skimped on. For privacy, try the tiny brick
courtyard with a couple of tables.
MIDRANGE & TOP END
René Cafe (%262-3487; Calle 7a Este; prix fixe US$10-20;
hnoon-3pm & 7-10:30pm Mon-Fri, 7-11pm Sat) With
an unbeatable location underneath the shadows of the Iglesia Catedral and overlooking
the Plaza de la Independencia, this elegant
classic offers fixed-price five-course lunches
(US$10) and seven-course dinners (US$20)
that change daily. However, the difference
is that René emphasizes the international
nature of the capital by infusing traditional
Panamanian favorites with influences as
broad as Pan-Asian and continental cuisine
to create some truly unique tapas.
Manolo Caracol (%228-4640; Av Central near Calle
3 Oeste; 5-course lunch US$25; hnoon-3pm & 7-10:30pm
Mon-Fri, 7-11pm Sat) Manolo’s immerses you in
tropical tastes, rescuing what’s native, toying
with flavors, paring them down and surprising
you. Tiny courses pair opposite flavors and
textures, such as beef tongue sprinkled in sea
salt, fire-roasted lobster drizzled in olive oil
and tart mango salad with crunchy greens. Not
every dish sings, but the fun is adventuring
through them. Drinks are extra, but there is a
fine selection of wine to splurge on. An open
kitchen allows you to watch the cooks dodging
flames, a lively backdrop to the warm, colonial
style with bold art and heaped bowls of fruit.
El Cangrejo & Bella Vista
BUDGET
La Tablita (Map p70; Vía Transístmica; mains US$2-8)
Classic in the beat-up, run-down sense of the
word, La Tablita is a smoking open-air grill
with worn checked tiles, surly wait service and
delicious charred meat. One ideal pairing is
grilled chicken topped with an intense garlic
chimichurri (onion and herb sauce) served
with a cold Atlas. It also does quick sausages
and whole fried fish with plantains.
Niko’s Café (Map p76; Calle 51 Este near Vía España; mains
US$3-8; h24hr) Spawned from a Greek immigrant who once sold food from a cart, Niko’s
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has become one of Panama City’s most successful chains, with locations throughout the
city. These sprawling 24-hour cafeterias serve
hearty portions of inexpensive food ranging
from made-to-order breakfasts, Panamanian
dishes and desserts.
New York Bagel Café (Map p76; Plaza Cabeza de Einstein,
near Vía Argentina; mains US$3-8; h7am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am8pm Sat, 8am-3pm Sun; W) More San Francisco
than Brooklyn, this fully American creation
nonetheless packs in expats with freshly baked
bagels, lox and oversized breakfasts. The setting offers jazz, soft sofas and your assortment
of laptop geeks.
Athens (Map p76; Calle 50, Bella Vista; mains US$5;
h11am-11:30pm) Fresh, delicious and casual, this
Greek eatery serves warm pitas with hummus,
satisfying Greek salads, gyros and pizzas. It’s
ideal for families and large groups, with long
hours and plenty of indoor and outdoor seating.
Crêpes & Waffles (Map p76; %269-1574; Av 5a B Sur,
Bella Vista; mains US$4-7; hnoon-11pm; i) Ideal for
an afternoon pick-me-up or a quick bite before clubbing, this salad bar and crêpe factory
has something for everyone. Spinach, ricotta
and tomato are a good standby, though sweet
crêpes, with fillings such as cheese, apples,
chocolate and caramel are delectable.
Machu Picchu (Map p76; %264-9308; Av Eusebio A
Morales 16, El Cangrejo; mains US$6-15; h11am-3pm &
6-11pm) Both low-key and traditional, this long-
standing Peruvian restaurant offers delicious
causas (an artful potato dish), ceviches and a
signature dish of arroz negro – rice with squid
ink. Start the night with a tart pisco sour made
with fresh lime and grape brandy. The setting
is a snug stone house with gold mirrors and
bright tapestry-covered tables.
MIDRANGE & TOP END
Ozone (Map p76; Calle Uruguay, Bella Vista; mains US$8-12)
Packed with worker bees at midday, Ozone
is a local fixture serving enormous portions
of good food. Too bad the ambience is wanting – the dark location, pegged to the side of
Habibi’s, was once a garage. But if you’re hungry, a huge salad, wrap or hummus is bound
to satisfy, and the chocolate cake is a winner.
Masala Indian Cuisine (Map p74; %225-0105; Calle
42 Este, Bella Vista; mains US$8; hnoon-11pm) Nothing
complements hot and humid tropical climes
quite like a fiery plate of Indian curry and an
ice-cold Kingfisher lager. Cozied up with floor
pillows and colorful textiles, Masala offers a full
complement of traditional dishes from the sub-
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com; Calle Guatemala s/n, El Cangrejo; mains US$9-18;
h11am-3pm & 6-11pm) Parading Peruvian clas-
sics as haute cuisine, La Mar proves a fun
splurge. The atmosphere is sleek and the
service snappy. Start with a tart pisco sour –
they pack a punch, but in a good way. The
degustación plate lets you try four varieties of
causas or ceviche. The causas prove delicate
and creamy, topped with shrimp or octopus.
For timid palates, the arroz chaufa (fried rice)
is a good bet; it’s fluffy and flavorful. Dress
well and reserve ahead – this place gets busy.
Ten Bistro (Map p76; %213-8250; www.tenbistro.com;
Calle Beatriz Miranda Cabal near Calle 50 Este, Bella Vista; mains
US$9-28) The creation of chef Fabian Migny,
this ultramodern bistro is barely a nook in the
DeVille Hotel, but the setting is fresh and intimate. Consider the $10 lunch menu – a steal.
On the menu, appetizers tend toward skimpy,
but the mains are well-priced and prepared to
perfection. Accompanied by hot homemade
bread, sole comes in a buttery spinach and
tomato sauce, and pork chops are glazed in
a perfect balsamic reduction. Desserts also
make their case (displayed prominently at
the entrance).
oLa Posta (Map p76; %269-1076; www.laposta
panama.com; Calle Uruguay, Bella Vista; mains US$11-24;
hnoon-2:30pm & 7-10:30pm Mon-Sat) For contem-
porary Panamanian cuisine, this is the place.
The tropical setting says hacienda, with a
breezy dining room decked with white linens and big wicker chairs. A seasonal menu
features ultrafresh meats and seafood and
quality regional produce. You can start with
sashimi-style fish with seared herb crust and
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choose from flavorful mains such as seafood
risotto or wood-fired roasted pork chops from
Chiriquí Province. Aromatic mangrove wood
supplies the sweet smoky flavor to dishes; La
Posta works with a program to support its
reforestation. For dessert, try the warm chocolate cake made with organic Bocas chocolate,
oozing with simple goodness.
Restaurante Matsuei (Map p76; %264-9562; Av
Eusebio A Morales, Bella Vista; mains US$11-18; hnoon11:30pm Mon-Sat, 6-11:30pm Sun) Matsuei has a long
and proud history stretching back over a quarter of a century. It’s easily one of Panama’s
finest raw fish experiences – much of the fish
is imported from Miami, so you can expect
to see everything from unagi (eel) to maguro
(tuna) on offer. Non-sushi eaters could try the
piping hot sukiyaki, lightly fried tempura, as
well as countless other Japanese standards.
Martín Fierro (Map p76; %264-1927; Av Eusebio A
Morales; steak US$12-20; hnoon-3pm & 6-11pm MonSat, noon-9:30pm Sun) For serious steaks, there
is only one name in Panama City, and it’s
Martín Fierro. Top selections include the
best in US-imported New York rib steaks,
grass-fed Argentinean fillets and locally raised
Panamanian cuts. A selection of Chilean
wines rounds out your meal.
Madame Chang (Map p76; %269-1313; Av 5a B Sur,
Bella Vista; mains US$14-18; hnoon-3pm & 6-11pm Mon-Sat,
noon-11pm Sun) This upscale Chinese eatery pre-
pares traditional classics like Peking duck and
sizzling sliced beef with oyster sauce. We’ve
heard reports that it’s hit or miss lately, but
it’s a local institution. The setting is Oriental
opulence in a historic Bella Vista home.
oViso 54 (Map p74; %715-0349; Vía Italia,
Punta Paitilla; mains US$14-28; hMon-Sat) While it has
the veneer of another slick bore, Viso is anything but. Don’t skip the starters: the grilled
octopus, shrimp wontons and avocado salad
with tart mango, are spot on. Service is swift
and the restaurant aims to please a range of
tastes, from the straitlaced (skirt steak with
asparagus) to the adventurous (quick-seared
tuna with garlic cilantro and plantain ribbons). The squid-ink risotto proves as intense
as its color and deliciously rich.
Eurasia (Map p76; %264-7859; Av 5a B Sur, Bella Vista;
mains US$15-25; hnoon-3pm Mon-Fri, 7-10:30pm MonSat) This rich, sensory experience starts with
a lavish setting complete with marble floors
and original artwork. Service is snappy and
the daring fusion cuisine includes dishes such
as Vietnamese shrimp rolls, and onion soup
PA N A M A C I T Y
continent ranging from tikka masala to lamb
vindaloo, with a good selection for vegetarians.
Wine Bar (Map p76; Av Eusebio A Morales; US$9-15) Some
say this Italian bistro with an encyclopedic wine
list is the best dinner value in town. Certainly,
it is popular among the local cognoscenti. The
pasta is satisfying, or you can order appetizers
such as a plate of soft and hard cheeses.
Market (Map p76; Av 5a B Sur & Calle 47, Bella Vista; mains
US$9-28) With blackboard specials, brick and
bustle, this bistro is more Manhattan than Calle
Uruguay, but here it is. Brought to you by the
same folks who created La Posta, Market places
an emphasis on style and quality. Salads come
in oversized bowls and you can top off your
order of Angus beef with interesting sides such
as creamed spinach or green beans with bacon.
It is wildly popular for weekend brunch.
La Mar (Map p76; %209-3323; www.lamercebicheria.
PA N A MA C I T Y • • E a t i n g
PA N A M A C I T Y
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PA N A MA C I T Y • • D r i n k i n g
with tofu and duck breast. Entrées similarly
span the continents with dishes such as jumbo
shrimp in tamarind sauce and coconut milk
with rice pilaf or tuna breaded with ajonjolí
(sesame) seeds and caramelized in honey.
San Francisco
Parillada Jimmy (Map p70; %226-1096; Av Cincuentenario,
San Francisco; mains US$9-12; h11:30am-11:30pm) The
long open porch with high ceilings and
wrought-iron chandeliers lend a farmhouse
feel to this Panama City institution. An open
grill sears some serious cuts of beef, chicken
and country-style sausage. Located in the San
Francisco district just east of the Multiplaza
Mall, Parillada Jimmy packs in lunchtime diners and an after-work crowd.
Limoncillo (Map p70; %263-5350; Calle 69 Este, San
Francisco; mains US$15-20; hnoon-3pm & 7-10:30pm
Mon-Fri, 7-11pm Sat) Panamanian chef Clara Icaza
Angelini cooked at some of the best restaurants
in New York before returning to her roots and
opening one of Panama City’s top restaurants.
The menu changes every few months, but you
can always count on a fresh and creative assortment of plates with delicate spices. The
stylish setting is enhanced by local paintings,
photographs and sculptures (some are for sale).
DRINKING
Bars and clubs open and close with alarming
frequency in Panama City, though generally
speaking, nightlife is stylish, sophisticated and
fairly pricey. With that said, the well-to-do
denizens of Panama City love a good scene,
so it’s worth scrubbing up, donning some
nice threads and parting with a bit of dough.
You might regret blowing your budget in the
morning, but that’s the price you pay to party
with the beautiful people.
Big areas for nightlife include Casco Viejo,
Bella Vista and the Causeway. Vía Argentina
is an up-and-coming spot – look for new bars
and clubs on this fashionable thoroughfare.
The district of Bella Vista is home to Calle
Uruguay, a strip of trendy bars and clubs reminiscent of Miami’s South Beach. The scene is
young and you can expect to pay to play here.
Moreover, clubs change hands quick in this
neighborhood, so its best to ask locals about
the latest and greatest additions.
For the latest on what’s happening in the
city, be sure to pick up a copy of La Prensa
(www.prensa.com, in Spanish). Weekend listings are available in the Thursday and Friday
lonelyplanet.com
editions or on its website; look for the ‘De
Noche’ section.
Half the fun of drinking in Panama City is
finding a hidden gem, though here’s a few of
our favorite spots to get you started.
oBar Relic (Map p78; Calle 9a Este; h8:30pmlate Tue-Sat) Wildly popular with travelers and
hip young Panamanians, this cavernous hostel
bar knows the right thing at the right time.
Service is friendly and patrons easily mingle in
the ample courtyard set up with shared picnic
tables. Not only are you outside (a rarity in
Panama City bars) but you’re partying it up
next to the historical wall of the city.
Cayucos (off Map p70; Causeway) Located on the
causeway, this open-air resto-bar sits on the
water with excellent views of the city. While
not exactly a bar, it’s the perfect ambience for
the first cold beer of the evening or a leisurely
drink on the weekend.
La Musa del Chai (Map p76; Vía Argentina) A little
bite of Puerto Rico, this tiny watering hole
serves the best tapas in town – try the fresh
ceviche with mango and hot pepper. Chorizo
spring rolls and cod fritters are other house
specialties – good nibbling with a cold beer.
The hosts are ultrafriendly and Englishspeaking. To find it, enter the internet cafe
across from HSBC and head upstairs.
El Pavo Real (Map p76; Vía Argentina, Bella Vista;
hnoon-midnight Mon-Sat) A mix of Panamanians
and expats gather over games of darts or pool
at this British pub-restaurant. The old location
was made famous by John le Carré’s thriller
The Tailor of Panama but pub grub continues
to satisfy and there’s occasional live music.
Platea (Map p78; Calle 1 Oeste) With exposed brick
walls and a small, intimate stage, this jazz
club wouldn’t feel out of place in Greenwich
Village. As the night wears on, both bohemians and society folk hit this swinging spot,
making for some excellent people-watching
over expertly crafted mojitos.
Habibi’s (Map p76; Calle Uruguay) The open patio
is a scenic spot for Lebanese cuisine, while
the upstairs is a colorful lounge resembling a
sheik’s tent where you can imbibe cuba libres
(rum and Cokes) after taking a few hits off
the hookah. A belly dancer often appears on
Friday and Saturday nights to add a splash of
color to the scenery.
Lobby (Map p74; Av Balboa) The hip spot to jump
start the evening with some martinis, this
minimalist bar sits upstairs in the Decapolis
hotel. The red lounge chairs, low lights and
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PA N A MA C I T Y • • E n t e r t a i n m e n t
93
see traditional folk dancing and live performances of music and theatre.
off Carretera Diablo, Ancón; mains US$6-10; hfrom 11am
Mon-Sat) Occupying an old cavernous hangar
Panama City has a wide selection of nightclubs – gay, straight, cruisy and sedate. DJs
usually pull from a broad repertoire, from
salsa and merengue to UK and US ’80s classics, with electronic music (house, drum ’n’
bass) liberally added to the mix. Most clubs
don’t open their doors before 11pm, so plan
your evening accordingly. As in most other
Latin American cities, people dress to the
nines when they go out – women typically
don a skirt, blouse and heels for a night out
dancing, while men tend to stick to slacks or
designer jeans and a collared shirt. You can
be sure that you’ll constantly be surrounded
by the latest fashions, so go all out and dress
to impress. Note that at most clubs, you’ll
be denied entry if you’re wearing sneakers
or shorts.
Due to a severe parking shortage, it’s
best to take a taxi if you go out in the Calle
Uruguay area, even if you’re renting a vehicle
in Panama. Also, remember to bring identification with you, as you might be asked for it.
Most clubs have a cover charge of US$10 to
US$25, though this varies greatly depending
on the place, the date and the time. Available
in hotel lobbies and bars, the pocket magazine Hip features the newest Panama City
nightlife.
Much like the city’s bar scene, clubs come
and go, and what’s hot one minute is on the
out the next. However, don’t be afraid to
that once housed machinery for the Panama
Canal, Lum’s is now the expat hangout of
choice. Satellite TV, pool table, foosball and
a handful of tap beers pack in the crowds on
weekends. The menu is heavy on ribs, steak
and other grilled mains. It’s located in Ancón
on the edge of the canal.
Wine Bar (Map p76; Av Eusebio A Morales) With more
than 200 wine selections from around the
globe on offer, this is the spot to leisurely
share a bottle, with a selection of soft, blue
and hard cheeses. Live jazz starts at 9pm most
nights of the week.
ENTERTAINMENT
It’s hard not to have a good night out in
Panama City, especially since the capital
is home to the most sophisticated clubs in
Central America.
If you’re not looking to get blotto, there are
numerous ways to spend a moonlit (or rainy)
evening in the city. A good place to start is
the arts section in the Sunday edition of La
Prensa or the back pages of the Panama News.
Panamanians have a love affair with
Hollywood and there are many air-conditioned
cinemas in and around the city. Panamanians
also love to gamble, and there are a few flashy
casinos where you can get in on the action.
There are also opportunities in the capital to
Nightclubs
PANAMA CITY AFTER DARK
Panama City’s nightlife scene is arguably the most diverse in Central America. It is a mishmash
of martini bars, historic lounges, casinos, strip joints and secret underground haunts, all of which
generally start thumping around midnight and shut down, quite candidly, when people are
ready to leave.
Three main districts represent the city’s most popular entertainment options. For glamour, hit
the diva-dense Calle Uruguay district, stopping in the street late at night for the obligatory spicy
Colombian arepa. Cover charges here are ubiquitous as are dress codes and thumping electronic
music. Across town, the newly minted Zona Viva, located at the neck of the Amador Causeway,
offers a slightly cheesier alternative that’s pedestrian-friendly and based mostly outdoors: expect
cheap drinks, security pat-downs, and a primarily Panamanian crowd.
Panama City’s most alternative (and perhaps fastest growing) nightlife district is the gritty
Casco Viejo. Set within roughly 10 blocks of cobblestone, the Casco’s nightlife is about as far
from sterile as it gets: offbeat bars, Brazilian lounges and hidden salsa clubs draw visitors eager
for some neighborhood authenticity.
Matt Landau is the author of www.thepanamareport.com
PA N A M A C I T Y
modular seating attract a stylish crowd who
also dine on sushi bites. It’s considered
gay-friendly.
Lum’s (Map p70; %317-6303; Bldg 340, Corozal Oeste
PA N A M A C I T Y
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PA N A MA C I T Y • • E n t e r t a i n m e n t
follow the crowds and use your intuition –
there’s no shortage of great spots.
Here are a few of our favorite clubs to get
you started.
Havana Panamá (Map p78; Av Alfaro; cover US$10;
hThu-Sat) Old school rules this vintage salsa
bar replete with bandstand and leather booths.
You’ll have to don your finest threads (there’s
a dress code) and enter behind a swooshy
velvet curtain. A complete salsa band rocks
the house.
S6is (Map p76; Calle Uruguay) Pronounced ‘seis’
(as in the number ‘six’), this club caters to
miembros del club, aka, the beautiful people.
There’s a fine selection of electronic music
worthy of the megaclub scene but a more
intimate and loungy vibe.
Li-bar (Map p70; Calle 76 Este, San Francisco) Today’s
‘it’ bar, this upscale lounge is new and cold
as a meat locker. Popular with thirtysomething Panamanians, it is more chill than other
spots, but nonetheless come dolled up to the
nines.
Guru (Map p76; Av 5a B Sur; cover US$10-20) Playing
a variety of today’s hits in the fog of a smokemachine, this club sees its good days and is
popular among shoestring travelers.
Starlight (Map p76; Calle Uruguay) The lion’s den
of karaoke, this older club has no cover, you
just have to consume a drink and muster the
courage to croon under the disco rays.
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Pure (Map p76; Av 5a A Sur) White walls, mattress
seating and innocent girl photos heighten the
virgin theme at this ultraplush club. Exclusive,
it boasts a nice patio where the DJ spins. By
the way, if you’re making conversation, it’s
named for the English word ‘pure’ (not the
Spanish word for mashed potatoes).
People (Map p76; Calle Uruguay) A favored spot for
the beautiful people and their hangers-on, this
polished club attracts a baby-faced crowd to
dance to pop hits.
Zona Viva (off Map p70; Causeway) On the
Causeway, Zona Viva is a closed compound
hosting a number of nightlife spots, ranging
from packed dance clubs to more low-key
watering holes. Shop around and pick the
theme that you like, be it a pirate bar or an
Egyptian club. For some it’s pura racataca
(without class), for others it’s a fishbowl of
fun. Identification is checked at the gate to
the complex, so the area is considered more
secure than most.
GAY & LESBIAN VENUES
Maybe it’s an egalitarian move, but the best gay
scene in Panama City is actually found at the
city’s hippest bars and clubs, not in gay-specific
establishments. For some, the gay and lesbian
bars give so many ‘all you can drink’ promotions that they turn out to be sloppy spots not
all that conducive to meeting and mingling.
THE JAZZ SOLUTION
Once a down-and-out section of the city with crumbling architecture and serious poverty, Casco
Viejo is coming into a new chapter. Making a strong push towards revitalization, the neighborhood is home to dozens of new restaurants, cafes, shops and renovated historical buildings. In
the midst of this architectural revival, another, less tangible one struggles to take place: that of
the Panamanian music community.
Jazz great and native Panamanian Danilo Perez returned here to the musical conservatory
where he learned his first notes to establish the Fundación Danilo Perez (Map p78; %211-0272;
www.fundaciondaniloperez.com; Av A 1069), a musical foundation which has generated over US$1 million in youth scholarships. It also sponsors the Panama Jazz Festival, a wildly popular citywide
event featuring artists from all over the world.
In an interview with El Casqueño, Perez says, ‘Through the discipline of music we can create
relevant leaders and good citizens. We can solve many of society’s problems.’ Youth are chosen
from inner-city Panama and all parts of the country, including Colón and the Comarca de Kuna
Yala. Some grants take students as far as the Berklee School of Music and the New England
Conservatory. Many come back to the music conservatory to teach others and complete the
cycle of community participation.
The Panama Jazz Festival is held every January, with a week of events in theaters around
the city, culminating in a free Saturday concert in the Casco’s Plaza de la Independencia. The
foundation in Casco Viejo also houses a library and music museum and is open to the public
(admission free).
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Cinemas
Panama City’s modern movie houses show
mostly Hollywood films (with Spanish subtitles) for US$4.50. VIP showings, with comfortable leather seats and the option of alcoholic
drinks, cost US$10. Most theatres offer halfprice regular tickets on Wednesday. For listings
and show times, pick up a copy of La Prensa
or go to www.prensa.com and click on ‘cine.’
Alhambra Cinema (Map p76; Vía España, El Cangrejo)
Occasionally screens independent films.
Cinemark (Map p74; Albrook Mall) Next to the
Albrook bus terminal. There’s also one in
the Multiplaza Mall (Map p74).
Kinomaxx (Map p74; Multicentro Mall) Near Punta
Paitilla.
Casinos
None of the casinos in Panama City are on the
verge of stealing business away from the megacasinos of Las Vegas, but there are three attractive and popular houses of chance in the capital
city. Most are inside top hotels: the Sheraton
Hotel (p87), the Miramar Inter-Continental
(p86) and the Hotel Riande Continental (p87).
Traditional Dance
A good place to see traditional Panamanian
folk dancing is the Restaurante-Bar Tinajas
(Map p76; %263-7890; Av 3a A Sur near Av Frederico
Boyd; hMon-Sat) Sure, it’s touristy, but nicely
done just the same. Shows are staged here
on Tuesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday
nights at 9pm; there’s a US$5 entertainment
fee, as well as a US$5.50 minimum per person
for drinks and food. It is highly recommended
to make a reservation before dining.
Theater
Teatro Anita Villalaz (Map p78; %211-4017; Plaza de
Francia) A historical spot in Casco Viejo to see
live performances.
Teatro En Círculo (Map p70; %261-5375; Av 6 C Norte
near Vía Transístmica) Plays and musicals are scheduled regularly.
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Teatro Nacional (Map p78; %262-3525; Av B at Calle
2a Este) Casco Viejo’s lovely 19th-century playhouse stages ballets, concerts and plays.
SHOPPING
The city has a number of markets where you
can purchase handicrafts native to regions
throughout the country (see p37). Here you’ll
find a range of handmade goods from baskets
made in Emberá villages to molas (traditional
textiles) from Kuna Yala.
Mercado Nacional de Artesanías (Map p79; Panamá
Viejo; h9am-4pm Mon-Sat, to 1pm Sun) In a new location, it’s a great place to shop for memorable
souvenirs.
Mercado de Buhonerías y Artesanías (Map p74;
h9am-5pm Mon-Sat) This bustling outdoor spot
is a great place to shop for Panama’s crafts.
Karavan (Map p78; %228-5161; Calle 3a Oeste;
h9:30am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun) An excellent place to find original Kuna embroidery
with modern designs and Congo art from
Portobelo, with artisans working onsite.
Caravan commissions local artists and works
closely to develop new talent.
Reprosa (Map p76; %269-0457; cnr Av 2 Sur & Calle 54
Este; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat) Sells quality huacas (replicas of pre-Columbian gold pendants) and necklaces made of black onyx and other gemstones.
Joyería La Huaca (Map p76; cnr Calle Ricardo Arias & Vía
España) A reputable jewelry store in front of the
Hotel Riande Continental.
Flory Saltzman Molas (Map p76; %223-6963; Calle
49 B Oeste) Has the best selection of authentic
molas – a colorful, intricate, multilayered appliqué textile sewn by Kuna women.
Malls
The capital has a growing number of shopping
malls, all of which highlight the increasing
love of Americana in Panama. Consumerism
aside, these air-conditioned spots can be a
good place to escape the heat, especially if
you’re traveling with kids.
Albrook Mall (Map p74; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, 11am8pm Sun) Next to the bus terminal, this mall has
a cinema, supermarket and dozens of stores.
El Dorado Mall (Map p70; Av Ricardo J Alfaro; h10am9pm Mon-Sat, 11am-8pm Sun) Near one of Panama
City’s newer Chinatowns, El Dorado also has
restaurants, shops and a cinema.
Isla Flamenco Shopping Center (off Map p70;
h10am-10pm) Small, but nearby you’ll find the
best selection of open-air restaurants in the
city.
PA N A M A C I T Y
Website www.farraurbana.com (in Spanish)
lists new gay clubs as well as upcoming parties.
BLG (Map p76; Av 4a A Sur) Located in the heart
of Panama City’s nightlife scene, this outand-proud club serves an incredibly diverse
clientele. BLG sees its share of top-notch DJs,
and it’s hard not to have a good time when
there’s a free open bar included in the cover
charge (around US$10).
PA N A MA C I T Y • • S h o p p i n g
PA N A M A C I T Y
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PA N A MA C I T Y • • G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y
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Multicentro Mall (Map p74; h10am-9pm) Also
has a cinema and shops, along with many
outdoor restaurants.
Multiplaza Mall (Map p74; Vía Israel & Vía Brasil;
FLIGHTS FROM PANAMA CITY
h10am-9pm) The biggest downtown mall, with shops,
restaurant and cinema.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Air
International flights arrive at and depart
from Tocumen International Airport (%238-4160),
35km northeast of the city center. For information on getting to and from the airport,
see boxed text, opposite.
International airlines serving Panama
City are listed in the Transportation chapter
(p288).
Panama’s domestic airlines are Air Panama
(% 316-9000; www.flyairpanama.com/tickets) and
Aeroperlas (%315-7500; www.aeroperlas.com).
Domestic flights depart from Albrook airport (%315-0403), aka Aeropuerto Marcos A
Gelabert, in the former Albrook Air Force
Station near the canal.
Flights within Panama are inexpensive and short – few are longer than one
hour. However, if traveling to the Darién,
Isla Contadora or Comarca de Kuna Yala,
Destination
Fare
(US$) Frequency
Achutupu (San Blás)
Bocas del Toro
Changuinola
David
El Porvenir (San Blás)
Isla Contadora
La Palma (Darién)
Ogobuscum (San Blás)
Playón Chico
Sambu (Darién)
46
80
80
80
38
35
46
46
40
48
4 weekly
multiple daily
multiple daily
multiple daily
daily
multiple daily
2 weekly
4 weekly
6 weekly
3 weekly
it’s quite possible that the plane may make
multiple stops. You’ll find that prices vary
according to season and availability. The
flights listed in the table (see above) show the
approximate cost for one-way fares.
Boat
For Isla Taboga, Barcos Calypso (%314-1730; roundtrip US$11) has regular departures from Panama
City, see p110 for schedules. Ferries depart
from the Causeway (p80).
BUS SERVICES FROM PANAMA CITY
Destination
Fare (US$)
Duration (hr)
Frequency
Aguadulce
Antón
Cañita
Chame
Changuinola
Chitré
Colón
David
El Copé
El Valle
Las Tablas
Macaracas
Ocú
Penonomé
Pesé
San Carlos
San José, Costa Rica
Santiago
Soná
Villa de Los Santos
Yaviza
5
3.80
2.50
2.15
24
7.50
2.50
12.50-15
5.50
3.50
8
8.25
7.50
4.35
8
2.70
25-35
7.50
8
8
14
3
2
2½
1¼
10
4
2
7-8
4
2½
4½
5
4
2½
4½
1½
16
4
6
4
6-8
33 daily
every 20min
11 daily
37 daily
8pm daily
hourly
every 20min
15 daily
9 daily
hourly
hourly
5 daily
8 daily
48 daily
6 daily
25 daily
2 daily
20 daily
6 daily
18 daily
8 daily
lonelyplanet.com
Bus
Albrook bus terminal (Map p74), near the
Albrook airport, is a convenient and modern one-stop location for most buses leaving Panama City. The terminal includes a
food court, banks, shops, a sports bar, storage
room, bathrooms and showers. A mall lies
next door, complete with a supermarket and
cinema. Before you board your bus you must
pass through a turnstile and pay US$0.10 tax
to the terminal.
Local buses from the city’s major routes
stop at the terminal, and behind the station
there are direct buses to and from Tocumen
International Airport. To get to the station from
the city, take any of the frequent buses that
pass in front of the Legislative Palace or along
Vía España (look for the ‘via Albrook’ sign in
the front window). See the table, opposite, for
details of services from Guatemala City.
Inside, Información (%303-3040; h24hr) offers assistance.
Both Panaline (www.viajeros.com/panaline) and Tica
Bus (www.ticabus.com) serve San José, Costa Rica;
see their websites for hours.
97
Canal Zone buses with Cooperativa SACA
depart from the Albrook Terminal to Balboa
and Clayton (both US$.025), Miraflores Locks
(US$0.35), and Gamboa (US$0.65), leaving
every 45 minutes.
Car
Many car-rental agencies lie clustered around
Calle 49 B Oeste in El Cangrejo. Daily rates
start from US$35 per day for the most economical cars, including unlimited kilometers
and insurance.
Rental car companies in Panama City include the following:
Avis Albrook airport (%264-0722, 315-0434); Tocumen
airport (%238-4056)
Barriga Tocumen airport (%269-0221, 238-4495)
Budget Albrook airport (%263-8777, 315-0201); Tocumen
airport (%238-4069)
Dollar Tocumen airport (%270-0355, 238-4032)
Hertz Albrook airport (%264-1111, 315-0418); Tocumen
airport (%238-4081)
National Albrook airport (%265-2222, 315-0416); Tocumen
airport (%238-4144)
Thrifty Albrook airport (%264-1402, 315-0144); Tocumen
airport (%238-4955)
Train
The Panama Railway Company (PCRC; Map p70; %3176070; www.panarail.com; Carretera Gaillard) operates
a glass-domed luxury passenger train from
Panama City to Colón (one-way/round-trip
US$22/38), leaving at 7:15am and returning
GETTING INTO TOWN
From the Airports
Tocumen International Airport is 35km northeast of the city center. The cheapest way to get into
the city is to exit the terminal, cross the street (to the bus shelter) and catch a bus to the city.
Taxis can be hired at the Transportes Turísticos desk at the airport exit; they’re a much faster
means of getting into town, though somewhat costlier. Beside the desk is a taxi stand, with
posted prices. Unlicensed taxi drivers will assail you, offering rides at ridiculously high prices,
but you can take a colectivo (shared taxi) for US$11 per person (for three or more passengers).
Buses to Tocumen depart every 15 minutes from the Albrook Terminal. If you take the Cinta
Costera route bus, it’s twice as fast as the others and air-conditioned. They cost US$1 and take
one hour to reach the airport. A taxi from downtown to the airport should cost no more than
US$20; leaving the airport they tend to charge more (US$25 to US$30).
The Albrook airport north of Cerro Ancón handles domestic flights. The easiest way to get
to/from the airport is by taxi; the ride should cost between US$3 and US$5.
From the Bus Terminal
All long-distance buses arrive at the Albrook bus terminal; from here there are connections throughout
the city. Routes (such as Vía España, Panamá Viejo) are displayed in the front window and cost US$0.25.
If you arrive after dark, it is recommended that you take a taxi (US$3 to US$5) to your destination.
PA N A M A C I T Y
For Isla Contadora, there’s a boat from
the Balboa Yacht Club (%314-0571, 6615-1392; local
2; round-trip US$60) on the Panama City causeway
every Saturday at 8am, returning on Sunday
at 2pm.
The easiest way to reach the dock is by taxi
(US$4 to US$6).
PA N A MA C I T Y • • G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y
PA N A M A C I T Y
© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
98 PA N A MA C I T Y • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d
lonelyplanet.com
at 5:15pm every day. It’s a lovely ride that
follows the canal, and at times the train is
surrounded by nothing but thick vine-strewn
jungle. If you want to relive the heyday of
luxury train travel for an hour or two, this is
definitely the way to do it. For more information on the history of this storied railway, see
boxed text, p233.
along Av Ricardo J Alfaro (known as Tumba
Muerto).
There are plenty of bus stops along the
street, but you can usually hail one from
anywhere. Many of these buses stop at the
Albrook bus terminal, the bus station near
the Albrook airport.
GETTING AROUND
Taxis are plentiful but problematic. Some do
not travel (or even know) the whole city, so
don’t be surprised if they leave you standing on
the sidewalk upon hearing your destination.
Taxis are not metered, but there is a list of
standard fares that drivers are supposed to
charge, measured by zones. One zone runs a
minimum of US$2; canal zone destinations
run up to US$6. An average ride, crossing a
couple of zones, would cost US$3 to US$4,
more for additional passengers or if it’s late.
Always agree on a fare before you get into the
cab, or better, ask your hotel to estimate the
fare to your destination and then simply hand
the driver the money upon arriving. Taxis can
also be rented by the hour.
Watch out for unmarked large-model US
cars serving hotels as cabs. Their prices are up
to four times that of regular street taxis. You
can phone for a taxi:
America (%223-7694)
America Libre (%223-7342)
Latino (%224-0677)
Metro (%264-6788)
Taxi Unico Cooperativa (%221-3191)
Bicycle
The only spot to rent bicycles in Panama
City is at the Causeway entrance. Both Moses
(%221-3671; h9am-7pm Sat & Sun) and Bikes n More
(%314-0103; h8am-6pm Sat & Sun) operate booths
with rentals starting at US$3.50 per hour for
mountain bikes. You can also rent tandems
and rickshaw bikes.
Bus
Panama City has a good network of local
buses (nicknamed diablos rojos or ‘red devils’), which run every day from around 5am to
11pm. A ride costs US$0.25, and we promise
you’ve never seen anything quite like these
tricked-out street rockets.
Buses run along the three major westto-east routes: Av Central–Vía España, Av
Balboa–Vía Israel, and Av Simón Bolívar–Vía
Transístmica. The Av Central–Vía España
streets are one-way going west for much of
the route; eastbound buses use Av Perú and
Av 4 Sur; these buses will take you into the
banking district of El Cangrejo. Buses also run
Taxi
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