Krakow, Poland

TRIPOGOGO TRAVEL GUIDES
KRAKÓW
POLAND
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Krakow Poland
Krakow is the 3 largest Polish city with approx. 900,000 inhabitants. Or that is
actually the second largest in Poland after Warsaw with 1.5 million.
inhabitants. The city in the world with the most Poles living, is namely
Chicago, USA. Here live more than 2 million. Polish immigrants and their
descendants.
The Old Town is the heart of the city, and is surrounded by a parks and green
areas. The district is built around the large market place where the first
"shopping mall" is still active. Today you won’t find your daily necessities, but
all sorts souvenirs and bargains for tourists. Next to the shopping mall is also
a tower, which is actually the old town hall tower. It was planned to demolish
the tower along with the old town hall, but the tower was spared.
In Krakow's old town, there are countless churches and other religious
buildings, and Poles is generally considered to be very religious. Up to 95%
of the population is believed to be religious, and most churches are open for
visits also from tourists.
The train from the airport called "Balice Ekspres" but do not expect high
speed. It takes roughly 20 minutes drive from the airport to the center of
Krakow, but the train drives at snail's pace. Tickets can be purchased on the
train.
Stay centrally in or near the old town. It is mostly in the old town that things
happen, and it is easy to walk around the city. The Jewish Quarter is also
worth a visit, and there are also a large number of cafes and restaurants in
that part of town.
Take a walk on the local marketplace. In Krakow, there are marketplaces in
every part of town. You can buy everything that is needed in an ordinary
household, and it is also where you can find supplies for a picnic in one of
Krakow's many parks.
Everywhere in Krakow's old town you will be approached and offered guided
tours through a part of the city in a horse carriage, on a Segway, with modern
electric rickshaws, in small electric cars, on foot or in an old east car like
Trabant or Polski Fiat.
Don't miss the castle Wawel on a hill in the center of Krakow, next to the
River Vistula. That's where you see the first signs of the establishment of the
city in the 9th century.
When you walk around in Krakow, there are plenty of opportunities to find
venues in the city. Often you are handed leaflets offering Chopin piano
concertos or jazz concerts that take place at smaller venues.
At the Old Town Hall tower and on the Main Market music is free and can be
enjoyed, with a glass of beer in one of the nearest restaurants. In the city you
can also find hosts offering "Polish evenings", with traditional Polish cuisine
and folk dance and music.
A visit to Auschwitz is almost a must if you are in Krakow, and there are many
opportunities to take a trip to the camp. You can use one of the many private
tour operators that arrange tours departing directly from the center of Krakow
or with pickup at your hotel.
Wieliczka Salt Mine is also worth a visit. It is possible to get to mine either by
bus or car, but you can also choose one of the guided tours running several
times a day from Krakow center and directly to the mine. Tours are arranged
with guide in different languages, so be sure to get a seat on a trip with a
language you understand.
The trip can be done in normal shoes and the temperature in the mine is
constantly around 15 degrees. If you are a wheelchair user, it is possible to
see parts of the mine via an elevator that gives access to one of the levels.
Kraków, Poland
Contents
1
Lesser Poland
1
1.1
Regions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1
1.2
Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
1.3
Other destinations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3
1.4
Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3
1.4.1
History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3
1.5
Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4
1.6
Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5
1.6.1
By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5
1.6.2
By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5
1.6.3
By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5
1.7
Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5
1.8
See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5
1.8.1
UNESCO World Heritage sites . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5
1.8.2
Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5
Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6
1.10 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6
1.11 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
7
1.12 Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
7
1.13 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
7
Kraków
8
2.1
8
1.9
2
Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2.1.1
History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
11
2.1.2
Economy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
11
2.1.3
Climate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
11
2.1.4
Read . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
12
2.2
Districts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
12
2.3
Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
12
2.3.1
By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
12
2.3.2
By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
14
2.3.3
By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
14
2.3.4
By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
14
i
ii
CONTENTS
2.4
Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
15
2.4.1
On foot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
15
2.4.2
By bus and tram . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
15
2.4.3
By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
15
2.4.4
By bicycle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
16
2.5
See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
16
2.6
Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
17
2.6.1
Events . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
18
2.6.2
Sports . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
19
2.7
Learn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
19
2.8
Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
19
2.8.1
City shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
19
2.8.2
Shopping Malls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
20
Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
20
2.10 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
20
2.10.1 Local drinks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
21
2.10.2 Bars . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
21
2.10.3 Cafes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
21
2.11 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
21
2.11.1 Campsites . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
21
2.11.2 Hostels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
22
2.11.3 Hotels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
22
2.11.4 Private accommodation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
22
2.12 Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
22
2.12.1 Racism . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
22
2.12.2 Scams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
22
2.13 Cope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
23
2.13.1 Consulates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
23
2.14 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
24
Kraków/East
26
3.1
Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
26
3.2
See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
27
3.2.1
Architecture of the central part of Nowa Huta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
27
3.2.2
Landmarks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
27
3.2.3
Churches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
29
3.3
Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
30
3.4
Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
31
3.5
Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
31
3.6
Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
31
3.7
Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
31
3.8
Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
31
2.9
3
CONTENTS
iii
4
Kraków/Kazimierz
32
4.1
Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
33
4.2
Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
33
4.3
See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
33
4.3.1
Museums and Galleries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
33
4.3.2
Synagogues and Prayer Houses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
34
4.3.3
Churches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
36
4.3.4
Cemeteries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
38
4.4
Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
38
4.5
Learn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
38
4.6
Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
38
4.7
Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
39
4.7.1
Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
39
4.7.2
Mid-range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
39
4.7.3
Splurge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
40
Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
40
4.8.1
Cafes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
40
4.8.2
Bars . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
41
4.8.3
Clubs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
41
Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
42
4.9.1
Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
42
4.9.2
Splurge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
42
4.10 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
42
Kraków/Old Town
43
5.1
Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
43
5.1.1
Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
44
5.1.2
InfoKrakow Tourist Information Offices . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
44
See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
44
5.2.1
Major attractions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
44
5.2.2
Squares . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
45
5.2.3
Churches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
45
5.2.4
Monasteries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
47
5.2.5
Palaces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
47
5.2.6
University Buildings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
48
5.2.7
Parks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
48
5.2.8
Museums and Galleries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
48
Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
49
5.3.1
Theaters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
49
5.3.2
Cinemas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
50
Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
50
5.4.1
50
4.8
4.9
5
5.2
5.3
5.4
Bookstores . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
iv
CONTENTS
5.5
5.6
5.7
5.8
6
50
5.5.1
Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
50
5.5.2
Mid-range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
51
5.5.3
Splurge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
51
Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
52
5.6.1
Cafes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
52
5.6.2
Bars . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
52
5.6.3
Clubs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
53
Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
54
5.7.1
Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
54
5.7.2
Mid-range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
54
5.7.3
Splurge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
55
Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
55
Kraków/South
59
6.1
Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
59
6.2
Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
59
6.3
See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
59
6.3.1
Podgórze . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
59
6.3.2
Dębniki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
64
6.3.3
Łagiewniki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
65
Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
65
6.4.1
Podgórze . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
65
6.4.2
Dębniki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
65
6.5
Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
65
6.6
Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
65
6.6.1
Podgórze . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
65
Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
65
6.7.1
Podgórze . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
66
6.7.2
Dębniki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
66
Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
66
6.8.1
Podgórze . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
66
6.8.2
Dębniki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
66
6.8.3
Further south . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
66
Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
67
6.4
6.7
6.8
6.9
7
Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Kraków/West
68
7.1
Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
68
7.2
See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
68
7.2.1
Churches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
69
7.2.2
Museums . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
70
Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
71
7.3
CONTENTS
7.3.1
Theatres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
71
7.3.2
Cinemas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
71
7.4
Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
71
7.5
Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
71
7.6
Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
71
7.7
Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
71
7.7.1
Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
71
7.7.2
Mid-range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
72
7.7.3
Splurge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
72
Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
72
7.8
8
9
v
Wieliczka
73
8.1
Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
73
8.2
Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
73
8.3
Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
74
8.4
See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
74
8.5
Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
74
8.6
Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
74
8.7
Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
74
8.8
Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
74
8.9
Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
74
8.9.1
Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
74
8.9.2
Mid-range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
75
8.9.3
Splurge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
75
8.10 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
75
Auschwitz-Birkenau
76
9.1
Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
76
9.2
Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
77
9.2.1
By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
77
9.2.2
By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
78
9.2.3
By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
78
9.2.4
Organized tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
78
9.2.5
Entrance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
78
9.2.6
Opening hours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
78
Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
78
9.3.1
Between camps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
79
9.4
See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
79
9.5
Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
80
9.5.1
Events . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
80
9.6
Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
80
9.7
Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
81
9.3
vi
CONTENTS
9.8
Respect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
81
9.9
Text and image sources, contributors, and licenses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
82
9.9.1
Text . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
82
9.9.2
Images . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
82
9.9.3
Content license . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
84
Chapter 1
Lesser Poland
Sukiennice and St. Mary’s Basilica in Kraków seen from the Town Hall Tower). Red beads are part of traditional Małopolan attire
- here they are used in oversized form as temporary installation promoting the region.
Małopolskie is a province in the south of Poland, whose name refers to the historic region of Małopolska, rendered
in English as Lesser Poland. Lesser Poland holds a wealth of tourist draws and it is no wonder it sees the most tourist
traffic of all regions of Poland. On the one hand there is the historic capital of Kraków, on the other are the Tatra
Mountains, Poland’s highest mountain range. The Jewish heritage of the region has a poignant and sombre conclusion
in Auschwitz.
1.1 Regions
• Jura Mountains
• Lesser Poland Upland
• Western Beskids
1
2
CHAPTER 1. LESSER POLAND
• Eastern Beskids
• Podhale
• Tatra Mountains
1.2 Cities
• Kraków — most popular Polish city with millions of visitors each year, it’s the cultural capital and historical
center of the country with countless medieval monuments and markets.
• Bochnia
• Kalwaria Zebrzydowska
• Limanowa
• Nowy Sącz
• Nowy Targ
• Oświęcim
1.3. OTHER DESTINATIONS
3
• Rabka-Zdrój — spa resort in the Beskids
• Zakopane — a very popular winter resort and summer getaway town in the Tatra mountains
1.3 Other destinations
• Auschwitz — Nazi-Germany concentration camp, which from 1942 to 1945 became the centre of the Holocaust on the European Jews
• Babia Góra National Park — national park in the Beskid Mountains
• Gorce National Park — national park in the Beskid Mountains
• Kalwaria Zebrzydowska — monastery in the Beskids from 1600 with baroque Stations of the Cross
• Magura National Park — national park in the Beskid Mountains
• Ojców National Park — national park in the Polish Jura with bizarre rocks
• Pieniński National Park — national park in the Carpathian Mountains with the break-through of the Dunajec
River through the Pieniny Mountains
• Tatrzański National Park — national park in the Tatra Mountains around the Rysy Mountain, with bears,
wolves and other animals
1.4 Understand
There is a strong sense of regional pride in Małopolskie, exemplified by two local folk traditions - Krakowiacy and
Górale. Krakowiacy are the inhabitants of the Lesser Poland Upland surrounding Kraków, while Górale are the
mountaineers living in the Tatra Mountains and Podhale.
1.4.1
History
In ancient times Lesser Poland used to be part of different cultures, like the Przeworsk culture or the Celts. In the
9th century it became part of the Great Moravian Empire. Later in the early 10th century it became independent
with some links to Bohemia. But already in the early Middle Ages Lesser Poland was conquered by the Piast from
Greater Poland, which was the major part of Poland in the 10-11th centuries. However, the capital of Poland was
moved from Gniezno/Poznań to Kraków in 1040 and Lesser Poland became the biggest and most important region
in Poland. When the Seniorat of Poland was formed in 1138, Lesser Poland became the senior region and Kraków
remained the capital of the Seniorat.
When Poland was reunified in 1295, Kraków became again the capital of the Kingdom of Poland. Kazimierz the Great
turned Lesser Poland into one of the most beautiful Gothic regions in Central Europe. Also the Italian Renaissance
had a great influence on Lesser Poland’s architecture. When the capital was moved to Warsaw in 1596/1611 the
region still was one of the most important in Poland, although more investments were made in northern Poland since
the middle of the 17th century.
After the First Partition of Poland in 1772 most of its territory south of the Vistula was annexed by Austria and
formed Galicja-Lodomeria. Kraków and its northern part was annexed by Prussia in 1795 after the Third Partition
of Poland. After the Congress of Vienna the Northern part became part of the Kingdom of Poland, ruled by the
Russian Tsar while the southern part remained part of Austria. After World War I Lesser Poland became part of
the Second Polish Republic, but was occupied by Nazi-Germany between 1939 and 1944, when it was part of the
German Generalgovernement. After World War II it again became part of Poland.
4
CHAPTER 1. LESSER POLAND
Church of the Assumption in Tarnobrzeg
1.5 Talk
Polish spoken in Małopolskie does not differ much from standard Polish, except for the mountain regions, where the
local dialect is actually very different and has a lot in common with the mountaineer parlance of the other side of the
Tatra mountains in Slovakia. It serves as a distinguishing factor for the close-knit communities of mountaineers who
proudly celebrate their cultural heritage and is widely revered and cherished by Poles from other regions as well.
As the region sees significant and increasing foreign tourist traffic, you should be able to find many foreign language
speakers, in particular of English, in the major tourist destinations and in the service trade. In smaller towns this may
1.6. GET IN
5
not be that easy though, but most younger Poles chose English as a foreign language in their course of education and
looking for somebody of younger age may be a good bet.
1.6 Get in
1.6.1
By plane
The region’s only international airport is Poland’s second-busiest airport, the John Paul II International Airport
Kraków–Balice.
1.6.2
By train
Kraków is a major railway hub and has direct railway connections across Poland, as well as with major cities of Central
Europe. In particular, the train connection to Warsaw features very frequent and reasonably fast (c.a. 3 hours) trains,
which allows one to use the intercontinental Chopin Airport in Warsaw as an entry point.
1.6.3
By car
The A4 motorway runs across southern Poland through Silesia to Saxony in Germany, connecting to the European
Union’s motorway system. Do note that A4 has tolls.
1.7 Get around
Kraków is the hub of the transportation system of Małopolskie. All major roads converge there, as do local railway
lines to Tarnów, Nowy Sącz and Oświęcim.
As the trains tend to be slow in the mountainous regions of Małopolskie and the tracks do not reach every destination,
there is a wide offering of private minibus services connecting Kraków to tourist resorts, as well as to Auschwitz
(where one can go by train as well).
1.8 See
1.8.1
UNESCO World Heritage sites
• Old Town and Wawel Castle in Kraków - well-preserved medieval town city and marketplace. After the ancient
Kraków was destroyed by the Tatars in 1241, Boleslaus IV located the new town in the current shape with the
Main Market and the straight streets. Many fine buildings, museums, theatres and restaurants are situated there,
with a spectacular Wawel castle hill.
• Wieliczka Salt Mine - the oldest still existing enterprise worldwide, founded more than 700 years ago. Once, it
made the Polish kings very rich, as salt was the expensive white gold. 4.5 km of nearly 400 km of the mine can
be visited. The tourist route shows the most beautiful halls and salt pieces of art made by the miners throughout
the centuries.
• Medieval wooden churches of Southern Lesser Poland - rare exemplars of medieval wooden architecture.
One of the most beautiful is in Dębno at Lake Czorsztyn.
1.8.2
Itineraries
• The Wooden Architecture Route of Lesser Poland. Running through almost the whole region, it shows hundreds of precious examples of medieval and modern buildings entirely made of wood.
6
CHAPTER 1. LESSER POLAND
Church of St.Michael the archangel, Binarowa
1.9 Do
While Kraków and Auschwitz are the usual destinations for most visitors to Małopolskie, it is a shame not to go south
and see the beautiful Tatra Mountains when already there. Going hiking in the mountains in the warmer months is
definitely recommendable and a firm favourite holiday activity with many Poles. While the highest mountain ranges
of Poland cannot rival the Alps for height, they can surprise with the amounts of breathtaking views and surprisingly
green landscapes.
In the winter, the Tatra and Beskid mountains become the hub of winter sports activity in Poland. This is the place
to go skiing or snowboarding, and with good timing you can attend ski jump competitions - a sport where Poland has
a particularly strong track record.
The Lesser Poland Upland is by no means less interesting either - a string of castles and castle ruins forms a hiking
trail, to be experienced on foot, by (mountain) bike or by car. In the summer, canoing down the many rivers that start
in the mountains of Małopolskie is also very popular.
1.10 Eat
Małopolskie is a delight to the palate - while the local cuisine may be simple, it is held to an art and eating well
is a part of the local way of life. The mountains are home to traditional cheesemaking, in particular famous for
the smoked cheese (oscypek). Other parts of Małopolskie may not have as famous hallmarks and share the general
culinary heritage with the rest of Poland, but you can always bet on a rich supply of organic regional produce and find
many restaurants where you can enjoy traditional Polish food prepared in the best of ways.
1.11. DRINK
7
1.11 Drink
Kraków became an infamous target of British stag night excursions, but the region’s nightlife is by far much more
than that. Kraków is arguably Poland’s cultural capital, with many venues blending cultural performances with social
activities. One shall also find lively nightlife in Zakopane, the most popular mountain resort town.
1.12 Stay safe
While incidents of racist and antisemitic behaviour do happen, especially in Kraków, tourists should not feel any
less safe than in any other region of Poland, or Europe for that matter. Much of Małopolskie thrives on tourist
trade and therefore visitors are well looked after. Thanks to a large academic population, you should be able to find
English-speaking support of all sorts reasonably easily.
1.13 Go next
Lesser Poland Voivodeship borders three other Polish provinces:
• Podkarpackie,
• Świętokrzyskie,
• and Śląskie,
as well as Slovakia.
Chapter 2
Kraków
The city of Kraków is in the Lesser Poland region in the southern region of Poland. It is the capital city of the
Lesser Poland Voivodeship. It covers both banks of the Wisła (or Vistula) river. Uplands region at the foot of
the Carpathian Mountains. It is Poland’s second largest city, with a population of 756,000 in 2007 (1.4 million if
including surrounding communities).
Statue of Adam Mickiewicz and Sukiennice in the Main Market Square
2.1 Understand
8
2.1. UNDERSTAND
Church of St. Mary seen from the Main Market
9
10
Church of St. Mary seen from plac Mariacki
CHAPTER 2. KRAKÓW
2.1. UNDERSTAND
2.1.1
11
History
Kraków is one of the oldest cities in Poland, with evidence showing settlements there since 20,000 BC. Legend has it
that it was built on the cave of a dragon whom the mythical King Krak had slain. However, the first official mention
of the name was in 966 by a Jewish merchant from Spain, who described it as an important centre of trade in Slavonic
Europe.
Through trade with the various rulers of Europe, it grew from a small settlement in 1000AD to a large wealthy city,
belonging to the Vistulans. However, through the 9th and 10th centuries, it fell under the influence of the Great
Moravians, then the Bohemians, before being captured by the Piast Dynasty of Poland. In 1038, Kazimierz the
Restorer made Kraków the capital of Poland.
In 1241, the city was almost entirely destroyed by Tatars. It was rebuilt to a design that remains largely unchanged
to the present day. However, after more successful attacks by the Mongols in the late 13th century, Kazimierz the
Great set about defending the city. Walls, fortifications, and the original Wawel Castle were added. The University
was also established. King Kazimierz established the district of Kazimierz for Jews to live in free from persecution.
This area remained mainly Jewish for centuries until the Nazi occupation.
The 16th century was Kraków’s golden age. Under the influence of the joint Polish-Lithuanian Jagiellonian dynasty,
Kraków became a centre of science and the arts. In 1569, Poland was officially united with Lithuania and as a result
government activity started to move to Warsaw. King Zygmunt III officially moved the capital in 1609.
However, the 17th century was a return to troubled times for Kraków and Poland. After being invaded by Russians,
Prussians, Austrians, Transylvanians, Swedes, and the French, it went through a phase of various forms of political
control. These included being part of the Duchy of Warsaw, established by Napoleon, and becoming an “independent
city”. However, it mostly fell under the sphere of influence of the Austrian Habsburg Empire, in the province of
Galicia.
In the First World War, Józef Piłsudski set out to liberate Poland and the Treaty of Versailles (1919) established an
independent sovereign Polish state for the first time in more than 100 years. This lasted until the Second World War,
when Germany and the USSR partitioned the country, with German forces entering Kraków in September 1939.
Many academics were killed and historic relics and monuments were destroyed or looted. Concentration camps were
established near Kraków, including Plaszow and Auschwitz. After German withdrawal, the city escaped complete
destruction and many buildings were saved.
In the Communist period, a large steel works was established in the suburb of Nowa Huta. This was seen as an attempt
to lessen the influence of the anti-communist intelligentsia and religious communities in Kraków. In 1978, UNESCO
placed Kraków on the World Heritage Sites list. In the same year, the Archbishop of Kraków, Karol Wojtyła, was
made Pope John Paul II.
The communist government collapsed in 1989 and Kraków has undergone another period of regeneration, with historic buildings being restored.
2.1.2
Economy
Kraków is the most popular tourist destination in Poland and this supports much of the local economy. However, the
University and numerous local colleges mean education is an important employer as well.
The service and technology industry is strong, with many banks and Internet companies, such as Google, being
located here. There is a large manufacturing sector as well, especially in steel (owned by Mittal), pharmaceuticals
and tobacco, mainly as a legacy of the communist era.
Unemployment is lower than average (5%) for the rest of the country (9%) and it is considered an attractive investment
opportunity, especially for those buying real estate. A new financial and business district is planned along with a new
sporting complex in the Nowa Huta borough on the Vistula river. This is for the regeneration of the Nowa Huta area,
the poorest district of Kraków.
2.1.3
Climate
There are four definite seasons to Kraków - summer being hot and humid (around 30-35°C), winter always sees
Kraków under a blanket of snow with bitingly cold days (−5u to −20 degrees C). Due to little wind Kraków is
suffering from high levels of air pollution from cars and coal stoves, which affects especially children and people with
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CHAPTER 2. KRAKÓW
respiratory problems.
2.1.4
Read
There is an English language monthly paper called Kraków Post available for free in clubs and culture venues throughout the city, where you can check the news, events taking place and new bars that opened in Kraków any given month.
2.2 Districts
Kraków consists of 18 districts. The historic Old City is situated in District I Stare Miasto. Even though the words
Stare Miasto mean 'old town', it should not be confused with the historic old town of Kraków itself, as the medieval
old town is only a small central part of District I Stare Miasto. Some of the communities around the edge of Kraków
can show you real Polish life away from the tourist-focused economy of the centre.
The article for Kraków is divided into districts as follows:
Districts of Krakow
2.3 Get in
2.3.1
By plane
Kraków Airport (IATA: KRK), also known as John Paul II International Airport Kraków - Balice, is the main
airport, located in Balice, about 12 km to the west of the centre. It is the second biggest airport in Poland.
The following airlines operate service to/from Kraków:
Domestic:
• Eurolot (Gdańsk)
• LOT Polish Airlines (Warsaw)
International:
2.3. GET IN
13
• Aeroflot (Moscow)
• Air Berlin (Berlin)
• Austrian Airlines (Vienna)
• EasyJet (Belfast-International, Bristol, Edinburgh, Liverpool, London-Gatwick, Paris Charles de Gaulle)
• Eurolot (Amsterdam, Zürich)
• Finnair (Helsinki)
• Germanwings (Stuttgart)
• Jet2.com (Newcastle upon Tyne)
• Lufthansa (Frankfurt, Munich)
• Norwegian (Bergen, Copenhagen, Oslo-Gardermoen, Stavanger, Stockholm-Arlanda)
• Ryanair (constantly changing list of west European destinations)
The airport in Kraków is known for its foggy days, which make the flights diverted (to Katowice, Warsaw, Rzeszów
or even Brno!) or canceled. The most foggy months are November, December, February and March, and during
those times many of the early morning and evening flights are rescheduled somewhere else.
To travel between the airport and the city:
• A train, operated by Koleje Małopolskie, runs between the airport (stop: Kraków Lotnisko) and the main
railway station in the city center (stop: Kraków Główny). It takes about 20min and a single ticket costs 8zł
(return 14zł). It runs every day, generally every 30min. The first train from the airport leaves at 05:17, the last
one at 00:17. The first train from the city centre leaves at 04:04, the last one at 23:42. There are power outlets,
Wi-Fi and ticket machines on the trains.
• Bus #292 and Bus #208 run from the airport to the city centre every twenty minutes and about once per hour
respectively. If you need to get to the Central Train Station, get off at the stop Dworzec Główny Wschód. This
bus stop is located next to shopping centre Galeria Krakowska, approximately 100 meters from the entrance
of the central train station (Dworzec Główny PKP). The ride takes around 40 minutes.
Single-ride tickets from Balice Airport to the city centre cost 4.00 zł (or 2.00 zł for ISIC/EURO 26
holders). Make sure you buy the “agglomeration ticket”, this type of ticket is valid in two zones, so
also in the area where the airport is located. Tickets can be bought from one of the newsagents or from
a ticket machine at the bus stop or at the bus. Make sure you validate your ticket immediately after
boarding the vehicle. For additional types of tickets, see the ticket information of the operator MPK.
At night, you can catch Night Bus #902 which leaves from the airport to the city centre late in the
evening. For a journey from the city to the airport, the bus departs from the Central Train Station.
There is no difference between night and day tickets.
• Kraków Airport Taxi is the official taxi corporation under the supervision of Kraków Airport. Those taxis
are available in front of the international terminal (T1). The price of your journey depend on the distance. You
can estimate the price by yourself by checking distance on Google Maps or any other service. The journey to
city centre should not cost more than 70 zł.
• Transportation companies: There are many transportation companies in Kraków which offer private, doorto-door airport transfers. Big advantage of this service is that the price of transfer is settled on the booking.
Also its quality is very often better than the average taxi service.
Katowice Airport (IATA: KTW) is an alternative airport located about 100km from Kraków that has direct connections with over 30 destinations across Europe and Asia. The airport is a base of Wizzair and has strong network
of Wizzair flights. It’s also the only one in southern Poland having a direct connection with Barcelona, Kiev, Georgia
, Glasgow or Israel which makes it a good airport for passengers who cannot buy direct flights to Kraków.
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CHAPTER 2. KRAKÓW
2.3.2
By train
Kraków Główny (Dworzec Główny PKP) is the Central Train Station in Kraków, and is located just outside of the
Old Town. It is connected to other cities in Poland and the rest of Europe.
International trains arrive daily from Hamburg, Berlin, Leipzig, Prague, Budapest, Bucharest, Bratislava, Kosice,
Lviv, Kiev, and Odessa with connections to the rest of Europe.
The station has a left-luggage service, waiting room, small cafes and shops. However, the food is not the best, and
you would be better advised going out of the station to buy from the shops nearby. There’s a shopping centre (Galeria
Krakowska) located next to the station with some fast-food restaurants. The station staff are not always the most
helpful to foreigners who don't speak Polish as they often speak no English and you can spend an awfully long time
waiting in line only to be told to join another long line. If you get confused, try asking someone young to help you as
most young Polish people speak communicative English and are very helpful. Staff at the international ticket counter
speak English.
Every hour between 6 AM and 8 PM there is a train between Kraków and Warsaw every hour or so. Some of them
are Express InterCity (EIC) with journey time of ~2h40. It is by far the most convenient way of traveling between
Kraków and Warsaw. The ticket costs 120 PLN per adult. First class tickets are about 25% more expensive, and offer
greater leg room. Other trains throughout a day are classified as Express (116 PLN) TLK (55 PLN) or Interregio
(47 PLN). They vary in comfort mostly, time of travel is similar, maybe Interregios take slightly longer. Some of
them have discounts for people <26 years old, ask at the counter.
2.3.3
By bus
There are Europe-wide coach services operating into Kraków, like Eurolines (from France, Italy, United Kingdom,
Scandinavia, Central Europe), Ecolines (from Russia, Baltic states, Central Europe and Balkans). The journey time
by coach from London, for example, is around 24 hours. It’s pretty uncomfortable, and not recommended for anybody
other than the desperate or environmentally conscious.
From Budapest you can get Kraków with Orange Ways or get on demand bus by Eurobusways. Eurobusways also do
connection from Dresden, Prague or Vienna.
Bus connections to other cities in Poland can be found on the website of the Regional Bus Station in Kraków.
Additionally:
From Warsaw and several other Polish cities you can get to Kraków with Polski Bus and Link Bus. Polski Bus accepts
on-line reservation only and their prices can be much lower if booked a few days in advance.
From Wrocław you can get to Kraków with:
• Lajkonik - another company that rides to Wrocław and back (with a stop in Katowice). Three runs everyday
each direction. One way ticket is 43 PLN (and there are some small discounts for students).
When traveling between Kraków and Zakopane it’s recommended to take a bus Transfrej, Szwagropol, Polski Bus (2
hour journey) instead of train (3,5 hour journey). Buses are leaving every 30 minutes from the Regional Bus Station.
2.3.4
By car
The Polish government has completed the A4 motorway from the German border (where it meets the Autobahn A4)
to Kraków. This makes travel from the west fairly easy. The speed limit is generally 140 km/h, and there is a 18 PLN
toll each way between Kraków and Katowice. Beginning on the 1st June 2012 a 16 PLN toll is also levied on the A4
between Wrocław and Katowice. Driving to or from Warsaw (300 km) is more difficult as the A1 has not yet been
completed. The easiest route is the Route 7/E77 road, which should take less than five hours.
2.4. GET AROUND
15
2.4 Get around
2.4.1
On foot
Depending on your level of fitness, you can see the whole of the city centre without needing any transport. There
are some beautiful walking routes, try the Royal Way or the Planty park that surrounds the old city all the way from
Florian’s Gate to Wawel castle. It is very relaxing. There is also a well cared for river banks next to the castle just to
stroll around.
However, be aware that in winter snow is sometimes not removed from the sidewalks, resulting in a mixture of snow
and mud. Be sure to bring waterproof shoes if you plan to travel by foot in the winter.
2.4.2
By bus and tram
During the day, there is an excellent system of public transportation consisting of trams and buses managed by MPK
(Miejskie Przedsiębiorstwo Komunikacyjne). On their website you can check routes or stops and find best connections
between them. Rush hours are mostly between 7AM-9AM and 3PM-5PM and you can spend a lot of time in traffic
jams.
It’s best to buy tickets before you get on board in a kiosk or ticket machine on the tram/bus stop (these are present
mostly in the city centre and provide help in few languages). Those trams and buses that are equipped with ticket
machines are marked with large "A" sign above the entrance. As the last option, if there is no ticket machine on
board you can buy the 5 zł ticket from the driver but you have to pay him with exact change (driver will not accept
a higher amount than the ticket price). If buying a ticket after mounting the vehicle try to be fast. Ticket controllers
are fairly common and fines are quite high (250 zł) and a hassle.
As soon as you get on, punch the ticket in the validation machine. Tickets need to be punched only the first time
you get on, don't do it again after changing a tram/bus. You can use a single ticket for multiple rides as long as its
time period hasn't expired.
Ticket prices: single-fare/40-minute 3.80 zł, 20-minute 2.80 zł, one-hour 5.00 zł, 90-minute 6.00 zł, 24-hour 15 zł,
48-hour 24 zł, 72-hour 36 zł, 7-day 48 zł, family ticket (Sat-Sun only, unlimited daytime traveling) 16.00 zł.
ISIC and Euro26 student holders that study outside Poland can use 50% discount tickets which means: 20-minute
1.40 zł, single-fare/40-minute 1.90 zł, one-hour 2.50 zł, 90-minute 3.00 zł, 24-hour 7.50 zł, 48-hour 12 zł, 72-hour
18 zł, 7-day 24 zł.
When traveling to neighbouring villages or to the airport you need an agglomeration (zone) ticket. All buses that
go outside the city limits have 2 at the beginning of their line number. Keep in mind you need zone ticket even if
you have any sort of valid time pass mentioned above (as they cover just the city area). Zone tickets are slightly more
expensive than city ones and follow similar time system.
Night bus and tram lines start with 6 (or 9 when zone) at the beginning of their line number. Ticket prices during
the night are the same. 24 / 48 / 72-hour tickets are valid on night buses.
Tram and bus stops show routes and most kiosks will be able to advise you on route numbers. Modern trams and
some of the modern buses also display the route inside on the screens and announce each stop.
2.4.3
By car
Don't bother driving in the city centre. There’s often a lot of traffic, parking spaces are scarce and can be expensive,
and Polish driving takes a lot of getting used to. There are also rules around local 'driving zones’, that ban nonresident’s vehicles from entering them. The taxis are cheap and it makes more sense to use them.
Taxis, reliable and fair play taxi drivers from the airport or for a longer transfer should be booked in advance by the
Internet. For instance Kraków airport transfer to Kraków costs around 70PLN. During the day, most fares will be
around 20PLN. All taxis should have a 'Taxi' sign on the roof and a sticker on the rear passenger window with prices.
There is an initial charge of about 5-7PLN, plus 2-3PLN per kilometer. Price list should be shown on the passenger
side door.
Car services such as iCar or Car-o or MaxiDriver are almost always less expensive than taxis, and will quote you
the prices in advance (based on the real distance between you and your destination). An 8 km ride will run you about
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CHAPTER 2. KRAKÓW
22 PLN.
There are instances where drivers will overcharge tourists, especially those who don't speak Polish. Check on a map
in advance how much it should be and if it goes much above that, debate the price.
2.4.4
By bicycle
It is easy to get around the centre on two wheels, as there are some bike lanes, including through the 'Planty' that
surround the Old Town. Some bike rentals also provide city and country tours.
• Bike Rental, ul. św. Anny 4, ☎ +48 501 745 986, e-mail: offi[email protected]. In summer from 9:00AM
till dusk. They have a tandem. 7 zł for 1h, 40 zł for 24h.
• Cruising Kraków, ul. Basztowa 17, ☎ +48 12 312 60 20, e-mail: [email protected]. 9:00AM8:00PM. 20 zł for the first 3h, 40 zł for 24h.
• Happy Bike, ul. Mogilska 51, ☎ +48 504 982 043, e-mail: [email protected]. 40zł/24h.
• Amsterdamer, ul. Koletek 9, ☎ +48 518 150 155. Amsterdam style bikes. 7zł/h, 50zł/24h.
• Two Wheels, ul. Józefa 5 (Kazimierz), ☎ +48 12 421 57 85. 10:00AM - 6:00PM. 50 zł for 24h.
2.5 See
Wawel Cathedral and Royal Castle
Most of the popular tourist attractions including Wawel Hill with Royal Castle and Wawel Cathedral and Main
Square with St. Mary’s Basilica and Sukiennice are in the Old Town.
District of Kazimierz is very interesting for those who want to see Jewish heritage of Central Europe. The synagogue
of Remuh, for example, was built in 1557 and, also if it’s not so well-conserved and the entrance costs 5zł, it has a
great atmosphere with its old walls and its ancient vestments. Beside it, there is its cemetery. It was created in 1511
and has been restored recently. The atmosphere is very melancholic there, and it deserves a visit.
The district of Nowa Huta was built during the Communist Era, and was made for the people working in the huge
steelworks (5 times larger than the Old Town of Kraków) that are located there. The architecture of the district is
2.6. DO
17
typical socialist; huge buildings surround green parks. The district now is poor, and you can touch the real uneasiness
of those times there.
Travellers who come to Kraków often visit Auschwitz-Birkenau camp. Not many know that in Kraków there also
was a Nazi concentration camp located in Podgórze district.
2.6 Do
Leonardo da Vinci’s The Lady with an Ermine currently on display in Wawel Castle Museum
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CHAPTER 2. KRAKÓW
Kraków, the old royal capital, is acclaimed for its many precious architectural monuments and a unique friendly
atmosphere. There are many things to do:
• Walk the entire Royal Way, from St. Florian’s Gate, down Floriańska, across the Main Market Square, down
Grodzka to the Wawel Castle.
• Listen to the Hejnał Mariacki (Trumpet Signal) while sipping a coffee in the Rynek Główny. The signal is
played live every full hour from the tower of St Mary Church and is cut suddenly in memory of a trumpeter
shot and killed by a Tatar arrow in 1241.
• Walk around the Planty, a large park that surrounds the entire Old Town.
• Lounge and take in the sun on the banks of the Vistula river. See the Dragon’s Lair and see the dragon breathe
fire.
• Take a cruise down the river, it’s perfect way to admire the Tyniec Abbey and Bielany Priory. In summer
there are several ships harbored next to Wawel Castle and there’s also city owned water tram but it’s harder
to find.
• Early on Sunday, go shopping at the open air flea markets at Plac Nowy and Hala Targowa. 7:00-13:00
• Participate in a Mass in St.Mary’s Church. The church is impressive and the devotion of the believers will
bring you inside of the real religious spirit.
• Take a ride around in dorożka horse carriage. There are always several parking on Rynek Główny.
• Visit Nowa Huta and lose yourself between the apartment blocks, doing your shopping in the very poor markets
of the district.
• Visit the district of Kazimierz, losing yourself in the tight streets and searching the tracks of the Jewish past
of Kraków.
• Take part in a city game which combines sightseeing of the city with adventure, integration and fun. You'll
find them advertised in hostels.
• Foreign visitors can find locals eager to practice speaking English and other languages at the English Language
Club on the second floor at ul. Sienna 5 (i.e. two floors above the ground floor at ul. Sienna 5, 100 metres
from the Main Market Square) on Wednesday evenings from 6 to 8 pm.
2.6.1
Events
• Jewish Culture Festival (Festiwal Kultury Żydowskiej). A classic, one the biggest Jewish culture festivals in
the world. A week of tours, concerts, workshops on cuisine, dance, music and calligraphy topped with a huge
final show on Saturday evening. June/July
• Bajit Chadasz (New Home in Hebrew) Another Jewish culture festival, organised by Jewish Cultural Centre
in Kazimierz with concerts, exhibitions and lectures. November
• Krakow Film Festival. One of the oldest film events dedicated to documentary, animated and short fiction
films in Europe. In a week over 200 films are shown in around six cinemas (10 screens) around the city and in
an open air one next to Wawel castle. May
• Off Camera. International Festival of Independent Cinema. April
• Etiuda&Anima. International film festival built around animations and short films. November
• ArtBoom Festival. Street art. In 2012 participants include Ai Weiwei and Russian collective Voina. June
• Photomonth. One month long festival with around forty different photography exhibitions around the city.
May
2.7. LEARN
19
• Live Music Festival. Typical summer opeair music fest. Stars that appeared past years include: Kanye West,
Muse, The Chemical Brothers, 50 Cent. second half of August
• Unsound. World renowned experimental music and art event. October
• Sacrum Profanum. Music fest with concerts of such stars as Steve Reich, Aphex Twin or Kraftwerk taking
place in unusual places like churches, museums and factories. September
• Wianki. St. John’s Night (Midsummer) celebration. An evening of concerts finished with a fireworks show
taking place on Vistula river banks next to Wawel castle. A booze-up. June
• Christmas Market Oldest Christmas market in Poland. Held every year from the end of November to the
end of December on Main Market Square. December
• Krakowskie Noce (Krakow Nights). Five nights (one in each month from May to September): Night of
Museums (free museums), Night of Theatres (free theatres), Night of Jazz (free jazz concerts), Cracovia Sacra
Night (free concerts of church music) and Night of Poetry (free poetic evenings).
2.6.2
Sports
See a football game. There are two first league teams in Kraków (and obviously their fans hate each other) - Cracovia
Kraków and Wisła Kraków, both have recently finished new stadiums located on two sides of Błonia park. To buy
a ticket you need to present a document with a photo (passport, driving license etc.) There are discounts for women,
school kids and students aged under 26. Do not display any team colors, jerseys, or the like. Rival gangs associate
themselves with the Wisła and Cracovia teams. Of course, this is a minority of football fans, but it’s best to be safe,
especially as an out-of-towner.
You can also play on one of the golf courses located near the city:
• Krakow Valley Golf & Country Club. Paczółtowice 328, Krzeszowice. Also a hotel, shooting range and
horse rides.
• Royal Kraków Golf & Country Club. Ochmanów 124, Podłęże. Between Wieliczka and Niepołomice. Also
a hotel.
2.7 Learn
Most of language schools now provide Polish for foreigners courses. Just a bunch
... there’s more.
One that is more prestigious is the School of Polish Language and Culture of the Jagiellonian University because,
well, it’s Jagiellonian University, the oldest Polish university, founded in 1364.
2.8 Buy
2.8.1
City shopping
The Old Town district offers excellent shopping, especially for clothes, jewelry, and art. You can wander all around
the Old Town and Kazimierz, where antique stores abound. The center of this all is the Rynek Główny (“Rynek” also
means “market”), where you will find some of the city’s top stores.
In the middle of the Rynek Główny stands Sukiennice (Cloth Hall), a center of trade in Kraków for hundreds of years.
The entire ground floor is a market, where local artists sell their wares. Look for amber jewelry and sheep skin rugs.
A great place to check out if you want to bring an authentic piece of Kraków back home.
If you're addicted to shopping, be sure to check out the Royal Way (Floriańska - Rynek Główny - Grodzka) and the
streets surrounding Plac Nowy in the Kazimierz district.
Luckily you can still get basic food supplies in the centre in independent and chain grocery stores but they start to
give way to luxury hotels and bank agencies. Alcohol can be easily found in groceries and common 24/7 shops.
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CHAPTER 2. KRAKÓW
2.8.2
Shopping Malls
There are two shopping malls in the central area, which include vast array of clothes shopping and eateries:
• Galeria Krakowska (ul. Pawia 5). Immediately next to the Main Train Station and a 5-minute walk from the
Main Square.
• Galeria Kazimierz (ul. Podgórska 34). Located at the southern tip of Kazimierz, on the Vistula River bank
offers 36,000m2 of stores and an Alma gourmet supermarket.
Plenty of other international chains (Carrefour, Real, Tesco, Lidl) are located in the outskirts/suburbs Kraków, i.e.:
Bonarka (ul. Kamieńskiego 11) the biggest but quite far from centre.
2.9 Eat
Kraków’s cuisine has been influenced by the cultures that have inhabited central Europe, as well as the AustroHungarian empire.
The most important dish from Kraków is obwarzanek (bagel). You can buy it at many stalls on the streets. Another
local specialité is oscypek - cheese from Tatra Mountains.
If you want to try Polish cuisine for outstandingly good-value prices (a big lunch for one person for about 8 zł) then
find a 'Bar Mleczny' (a milk bar - a kind of cafeteria very prevalent in Communist times so called because it serves
no alcohol). You can find one on the right side of ul. Grodzka (if you are going from Rynek Główny). They're not
very posh and decorations are rather humble, but they offer classic Polish home food such as 'krokiety' at it’s best.
An English-Polish dictionary is recommended when ordering.
Dishes:
• Żurek is a soup based on fermented rye - it’s sour and creamy and often has slices of kielbasa sausage or a
hard-boiled egg added.
• Barszcz is a soup made with beetroot—very savory.
• Chłodnik is another beetroot soup, served cold as a refreshing summer dish. It makes use of the beetroot
greens as well as the roots, and is flavoured with gherkins, dill and sour cream.
• Pierogi are dumplings that are most often filled with “ruskie” (“ruskie” meaning “Ruthenian” - with curd cheese
and potato), meat, cabbage, mushroom, bilberries, apples, and strawberries. The fruit Pierogi are usually served
with cream and sugar.
You won't see this in most guides, but one of the true joys of a trip to Kraków is a visit to the kiełbasa van. Basically,
it’s these two gruff Polish men who, every night from 8PM-3AM, set up a fire grill outside of their van (parked in
front of the market east of the Old Town near the train bridge) and grill kielbasa. For 8 zł, you get your sausage,
roll and a squirt of mustard, stand at the perch nearby and chow down with the locals in-the-know. It is delicious,
especially after a night of exploring Kraków’s bars. A fun experience free of the usual tourist crush and off the main
path (ul. Grzegórzecka, opposite ul. Blich)
By far one of the most popular street foods in Kraków is the zapiekanka which is a large open-faced baguette with
baked toppings (traditionally cheese, mushrooms, and a lot of condiments like ketchup or garlic sauce). The best, and
most popular, location for zapiekanki is on the Plac Nowy market in Kazimierz. It is busiest at night on the weekends
where you can purchase them until the early hours of the morning.
In Kraków you can also buy one of the best Polish sausages - Lisiecka.
2.10 Drink
Bars, pubs, and cafes in Kraków are one of its biggest attractions. Not just their number or quality, but close proximity.
It has been said that there are more than 300 eating and drinking establishments in the Old Town alone.
2.11. SLEEP
2.10.1
21
Local drinks
• A tatanka is a unique (and delicious) Polish beverage made with apple juice and a special kind of vodka called
żubrówka, which is flavored with bison grass. It is also often referred to as a szarlotka, or apple cake. Tatanka
is a Native American term for bison.
• Wódka miodowa is a honey vodka, often served chilled in shots. Some of the better Polish-themed restaurants
will have house brands.
• Śliwowica, a plum brandy, is worth watching out for. There are two main variants: an 80-proof (40%) yellow
tinged one and a 140-proof (70%) clear variety. While the 80-proof variety is often smooth and flavorful,
some have compared the 140-proof to drinking gasoline. A good way to drink it is to deal with it like with an
absynth. Take a small spoon with sugar, put some Sliwowica on it and fire it. Let the sugar melt down for a
while (10–30 seconds). Then, mix the flaming sugar with the rest of the drink. Let it burn for 5–10 seconds,
then blow it and drink it. Watch out and don't burn your lips! You can also let it burn longer, but then use a
straw to drink it to avoid burning your fingers or lips.
• Grzaniec, a sort of heated wine with cloves and other spices, very popular around Christmas when sold on
Market Square.
• Wściekły pies, a shot of plain vodka with tabasco and rasbery sauces in the bottom. Must be drank in one
gulp. The name can be translated as mad dog. Definitely worth trying.
• Kamikaze, a set of several shots of vodka-based alcohol sold usually in clubs. It usually contains equal parts
of vodka, blue curacao and lime juice. Should be drank in one gulp, one shot after another.
Warning: If you party with Poles you should be aware of the fact that some of them can consume without bigger
harm to their health a dosage of alcohol considered to be lethal. Don't try to keep up with your Polish friends and
make sure you have plenty of breaks when drinking.
2.10.2
Bars
Thanks to their proximity to each other, Kraków’s watering holes are ideal for bar hopping. Many locals and tourists
have spent nights partying from the Old Town all the way to Vistula River at the end of Kazimierz. Walk down ul.
Szeroka or head over to plac Nowy for streets full of bars.
In the warmer months, Kraków’s nightlife moves outdoors into hundreds of sidewalk cafes and beer gardens. When
winter comes around, it moves underground into cellars all around the city.
2.10.3
Cafes
Kraków is not only full of cozy cafes, but is also said to be the place of the first cafe founded in Europe. Most cafes
offer good espresso and something to nibble at a very reasonable price. As a rule, international-looking places are
much more expensive.
2.11 Sleep
As the number of tourists to Kraków increases rapidly, accommodation prices are rising. Try to avoid hotels and
hostels located in the Nowa Huta district; most of them are former shelters for part-time industry workers and the
district is quite distant from the city center.
2.11.1
Campsites
There are few campsites in Kraków, most of them closed in colder months. All provide place for tents and caravans
as well.
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2.11.2
CHAPTER 2. KRAKÓW
Hostels
There are plenty of decent clean backpacker hostels in the Old Town and Kazimierz. Expect to pay 40-60 zł for a
dorm bed, including breakfast (bread, jam, and cheese), laundry, sheets, lockers, and internet.
2.11.3
Hotels
Kraków has lots of hotels located all over the city. Big corporate ones (Sheraton, Qubus etc.) are near centre, most
often on Vistula banks. In the Old Town there are some reasonably priced and some pretty luxurious and expensive.
2.11.4
Private accommodation
A good way to stay in Kraków is to rent private accommodation. You can usually get a one bedroom for €60-€90 a
night, located in the Old Town. There are two agencies opposite the main railway station offering rooms. If you hang
around the street outside the agencies for a while, some landlords will approach you and make an offer. This saves
you the commission, but may be a bit unsafe.
2.12 Stay safe
Like the rest of Poland, Kraków is generally a very safe city with strong police presence. Violent behavior is rare and
if it occurs it is most likely alcohol-related. While pubs and clubs are generally very safe, the nearby streets may be
scenes of brawls, especially late at night. Try to avoid confrontations. Women and girls are generally less likely to
be confronted or harassed since the Polish code of conduct strictly prohibits any type of violence (physical or verbal)
against women.
Follow standard city travel rules: don't leave valuables in the car in plain sight; don't display money or expensive
things needlessly; know where you're going; be suspicious of strangers asking for money or trying to sell you something. Pickpockets operate, pay attention to your belongings in crowds, at stations, in crowded trains/buses (especially
to/from the airport), and clubs. In any case, do not be afraid to seek help or advice from the Police (Policja) or the
Municipal Guard (Straż Miejska). They are generally helpful, polite and in most cases speak at least basic English.
2.12.1
Racism
As a result of German and Soviet terror, modern Poland is a very homogeneous society. Even though quite a few Asian
and African migrants have settled in the larger cities (including Kraków) in the last couple of years, it is still quite rare
to see non-Caucasians on the Polish streets. If you are a non-white traveller do not be surprised (or alarmed) if some
people (especially young children) stare at you with curiosity. The overwhelming majority of Poles is composed of
warm, hospitable people who are often curious to learn more about other cultures. Racist incidents are extremely
rare, but, just like anywhere else in Europe, have taken place. If you are unfortunate enough to experience racism or
too much curiosity, it is important not to get yourself involved in a confrontation. Walk away instead.
2.12.2
Scams
As in any major tourist city there are people trying to take advantage of travellers. Generally, use common sense and
follow simple precautions. Below is a list of the most common scams:
Bar scam
In line with its reputation as an inexpensive all-male trip destination, Kraków is unfortunately notorious for the bar
scams typical of many popular tourist destinations. The scam, in short, involves being chatted up by attractive women
and invited to join them in a club for drinks. The bill for the drinks then turns out to run up multifold of what one
might have expected to pay. Two establishments notorious for pepetrating this are Saxon Club and Hard Candy, but
you may be asked to follow your newly acquired company to nondescript premises not appearing to be a publicly
open club as well.
2.13. COPE
23
Hotel scam
A few Kraków visitors have been victim to the hotel scam. After a long day of travel, the victim is awakened when
their hotel room phone rings. It’s the receptionist apologizing for the late hour but asking to verify credit-card details.
The victim reads them out and drifts back to sleep. As Kraków guides know, there is a growing black market for
stolen credit card numbers, and the chances are that even before the victim remembers this late night conversation
there will be high charges to contest, possibly even ending their vacation early.
Taxi scam
When using a taxi always ask for a price for your journey before you leave. Scam taxis have been found to operate
near to the main railway station. They are legally registered as “transportation services” and charge €20/1 km. With
regular taxis prices are limited by law, and the pricelist is easily visible. It should be around 2,30 zł per kilometer,
with an initial fee of 7 zł (first kilometre included in price). Reliable licensed taxi companies include: Taxi Barbakan,
Taxi Dwójki, Lajkonik Taxi and Taxi 19191. While it is legal for “transportation services” to charge people as much
as they like, their prices must be clearly displayed and must be clearly stated when you ask the driver. If you do not
agree with the price, do not use the service. The best way to get a reliable taxi is to call them by phone (you can do
it by yourself or ask hotel staff to do it for you).
Currency exchange scam
Look very closely what the buy rate is when you exchange your currency into PLN, and ask for the exact rate in
writing. Do not let the clerk point on the chart with rates; insist on their quoting the rate for you beforehand on
a piece of paper. Very often the rate is displayed not on an electronic board, but with digits on small tiles; it may
happen that a small tile with a zero is partially slid right under the comma in the “buy” rate, so e.g. instead of 3,45
PLN the actual rate is 3,045. This is difficult to notice and the clerks do not accept any complaints after you receive
your money. Victims may lose up to 20% of the exchanged amount. This practice is definitely unfair and on the verge
of legality. It has been described and condemned in local press. However, if the tile with 0 is visible at least in half,
the booth owner may escape responsibility, as your acceptance of the rates is assumed. Remember the rule of thumb
- spread between the “buy” and “sell"rates should not exceed 2-3% of the “buy” rate on the main currencies (EUR,
USD, GBP) and 5% on secondary currencies (CHF, JPY, SEK, NOK). Stick to banks (even if the rate is slightly
worse, it is still perfectly acceptable) or large currency exchange points.
The currency exchange point at the railway station usually operates at rip-off spreads. Avoid at all costs, unless you
are in a big hurry or selling PLN. Also avoid the exchange points at the airport, or exchange only the amount for the
ticket to the city center.
2.13 Cope
2.13.1
Consulates
Some of these are only honorary consulates. If you come from a country which has only an honorary consulate in
Kraków, note down a telephone number to the embassy in Warsaw, as honorary consulates do not provide any services
for travellers.
• Brazil, ul. Wrocławska 53, (12) 633 40 88. (honorary consulate)
• Chile, ul. Floriańska 3, (12) 428 92 50. (honorary consulate)
• Croatia, ul. ks. Jerzego Popiełuszki 36, (12) 290 65 10. (honorary consulate)
• Denmark, ul. św. Anny 5, (12) 421 71 20. (honorary consulate)
• Estonia, ul. Floriańska 15/4, 0501 014 230. (honorary consulate)
• France, ul. Stolarska 15, (12) 424 53 00. (full consulate)
• Germany, ul. Stolarska 7, (12) 424 30 00. (full consulate)
24
CHAPTER 2. KRAKÓW
• Hungary, ul. Lubicz 18. (full consulate)
• Italy, ul. Wenecja 3, (12) 429 29 21. (honorary consulate)
• Japan, ul. Grabowskiego 5/3, (12) 633 43 59. (honorary consulate)
• Lithuania, ul. Chłopickiego 10, (12) 413 65 18. (honorary consulate)
• Latvia, ul. Malborska 130, (12) 350 55 50. (honorary consulate)
• Mexico, ul. Wiedeńska 72, (12) 636 52 59. (honorary consulate)
• Norway, ul. Mazowiecka 25, (12) 633 03 76. (honorary consulate)
• Peru, ul. Straszewskiego 28, (12) 422 80 18 ext. 28. (honorary consulate)
• Russia, ul. Biskupia 7, (12) 422 26 47. (full consulate)
• Slovakia, ul. św. Tomasza 34, (12) 425 49 70. (full consulate)
• Sweden, ul. św. Anny 5, (12) 421 73 80. (full consulate)
• Turkey, ul. Jaracza 10, (12) 416 30 05. (honorary consulate)
• UK, ul. św. Anny 9, (12) 421 70 30. (honorary consulate)
• Ukraine, ul. Beliny-Prażmowskiego 4, (12) 429 60 66. (full consulate)
• United States, ul. Stolarska 9, (12) 424 51 00. (full consulate)
2.14 Go next
Auschwitz II-Birkenau
2.14. GO NEXT
25
• Auschwitz-Birkenau Former German Nazi camp 2 km outside city of Oświęcim, 65 km from Kraków.
• Getting there: Leave a whole day for this if you want to go. The Auschwitz camp and the much bigger
Birkenau camp are a few kilometres apart. Frequent and inexpensive buses leave from the main bus station
in Kraków, and trains leave approximately every two hours from the adjacent railway station. Most will
let you out at the main Oświęcim station, a short walk from the camp (follow the signs to “Muzeum”).
Alternately, a frequent PKS bus drops off and picks up directly in front of the visitor center—just check
for destination “Oświęcim Muzeum.” (You can buy a ticket from the bus driver.) You can find bus
schedules here: and trains here: . From Auschwitz, there is a free shuttle to Birkenau.
• Tours and guides: There is no need to pay for overpriced organised tours from Kraków, which are
heavily advertised. Travel to Auschwitz using local trains or buses is easy and inexpensive, and entrance
is free of charge. The only thing you need to pay for when you get there is a guide (which is optional
- **Update** From 1 April - 31 October 2012 access is only allowed to Auschwitz I with a guided
tour during the peak hours from 10AM - 3PM, but you can visit without a guide outside of these hours.
English language tours cost 40 PLN and run every hour between 10:30AM and 3:30PM Tours may be
joined at the site without prior reservation. Auschwitz II-Birkenau is open to unguided visitors all day) -they have official tours available in many languages for a modest fee. Check the schedule here: . If you
do want an organized tour from Kraków (which generally includes a bus there and a guide once there),
they cost ~130 PLN per person. Many hotels and travel agents in Kraków, as well as the Galicja Museum
in Kazimierz can direct you to reputable companies.
• Wieliczka, 17 km from Kraków, is the location of ancient salt mines, one of the original 12 UNESCO
World Heritage Sites and a definite must-see. Entrance to the mines (64 zł) is rather expensive compared
to other tourist attractions in Poland. Bus 304 (4 zł, recognizable yellow buses, first stop is in front of Galeria
Krakowska) makes frequent trips to and from the mines. There are 4 Wieliczka stops; get off at Wieliczka
Kopalnia Soli (look for a giant “SALT MINES” sign). The ride takes 40 minutes. There is also a train to
Wieliczka that lets off a short (and well-marked) walk from the mine.
• Bochnia — Historic salt mine, older than Wieliczka. 40 km from Kraków. Must see. SK-BUS minibuses
from Kraków Main Railway Station (Dworzec Główny), or train (direction: Tarnów, Rzeszów, Stróże, Nowy
Sącz/Krynica).
• Bielsko-Biała — 80 km southwest city with cosy old town and many beautiful buildings from Austro-Hunagrian
times. Many buses from Kraków Bus Station (RDA).
• Tarnów — The second largest city in region with a beautiful main market.
• Nowy Sącz — 100 km southeast beautiful old city with a fine main market square.
• Zakopane — 100 km south in the Tatra Mountains is considered to be the Polish winter sport capital. Other
winter sport centres near Kraków in the Beskids are Szczyrk, Żywiec, Zawoja, Korbielów, Bukowina Tatrzańska, Białka Tatrzańska, Rabka-Zdrój, Szczawnica, Wisła, Koniaków and Ustroń.
• Częstochowa - 120 km northwest is the most important pilgrim’s place in Central Europe. In the Pauline
Monastery on Jasna Góra (literally: bright hill) you can pray in front of one of the most known icon of Our
Lady of Częstochowa.
• Wadowice - 40 km southwest is the birthplace of Karol Wojtyła, John Paul II.
• Beautiful Renaissance castles in Pieskowa Skała, Nowy Wiśnicz, Niepołomice, Sucha Beskidzka and Niedzica.
• The “Eagle Nest Castle Ruins” in the Jura in Ogrodzieniec, Olsztyn, Rudno, Mirów and Ojców.
• Monasteries near Kraków are in Tyniec and Kalwaria Zebrzydowska.
• Spas near Kraków are in Krynica, Muszyna, Busko-Zdrój, and Piwniczna.
• Zalipie, a small village, is unique because of its floral hand painted houses.
Chapter 3
Kraków/East
Eastern part of Kraków consists of several districts, most known of which is Nowa Huta. It is situated east of
the Old Town and north of Vistula River. Nowa Huta recently became one of tourist destinations in Kraków as a
post-communist district with very typical socrealistic architecture.
3.1 Understand
Nowa Huta centre
The area of Nowa Huta was a fertile countryside landscape in the Middle Ages. In the 6th century a mound was
erected there by the Vistula People, one of the Polish tribes. In the 12th century the monks erected a monastery in
Mogiła. After Poland was liberated and occupied by the Soviet Union the communists built the biggest European
steel mill called Nowa Huta (New Steel Mill) from 1949 to 1955. The new district was built around Plac Centralny
(Central Square) and Aleja Róż (Alley of Roses).
Nowa Huta was a model city built to attract people from lower socioeconomic backgrounds to the region as a coun26
3.2. SEE
27
terweight to the middle class of Kraków who had decisively rejected Communism in the 1946 Polish People’s Referendum. Nowa Huta became the largest steel mill in Poland but had little economic rationale: coal had to be imported
from Silesia and iron ore from the Soviet Union, while most of the finished steel was shipped elsewhere as there was
little local demand.
It is one of the best examples of Socrealist architecture in Europe. Nowa Huta became the first atheist district in
Poland, and it was not until the 1970s when the first church was built there and sanctified by then-Cardinal Karol
Wojtyla, later Pope John Paul II.
Andrzej Wajda’s film Man of Marble shows the life of bricklayers building Nowa Huta in the 50s and also the use of
propaganda during the Stalinism period.
3.2 See
Architecture of Nowa Huta, Aleja Róż
3.2.1
Architecture of the central part of Nowa Huta
The original complex of apartment buildings is built around axis which radiate out from the Central Square (Plac
Centralny, recently dedicated to Ronald Reagan). Architects of the first apartments blocks mixed Renaissance style
with Soviet Realism. Buildings constructed after 1956 are Modernist (of this period an interesting example is so
called Swedish block at os. Szklane Domy nr 19c) while those built in the 1970s and 1980s are mainly 'plattenbau', a
technique which used prefabricated concrete plates and was common in Eastern Bloc. The first buildings in Poland
which were built using big block technique, one that later evolved into 'plattenbau', can be seen at os. Stalowe.
3.2.2
Landmarks
• Wanda Mound (Kopiec Wandy). Built around 6th or 7th century for unknown reasons. Considered a burial
place of a legendary princess Wanda.
• Krakow Historical Museum - The History of Nowa Huta Quarter (Muzeum Historyczne Miasta Krakowa
- Dzieje Nowej Huty), os. Słoneczne 16, ☎ +48 12 425-97-75. Shows temporary exhibitions about the history
of Nowa Huta before and after 1949.
28
IS-2 tank in front of Museum of Armed Deed
Aviation Museum
CHAPTER 3. KRAKÓW/EAST
3.2. SEE
29
“Lord’s Ark” Church
• PRL Museum (The People’s Republic of Poland Museum), os. Centrum E 1 (the old Światowid cinema
building), ☎ +48 12 686 61 65. 9AM - 3PM. Museum is under construction so it’s often closed, check the
website before visiting.
• Museum of Armed Deed (Muzeum Czynu Zbrojnego), os. Górali 23. Mon - Fr: 10 - 15. WW2 tank IS-2
which stands in front of the museum is one of Nowa Huta landmarks. Free.
• Nowa Huta Cultural Centre (NCK - Nowohuckie Centrum Kultury), al. Jana Pawła II 232.
• Jan Matejko Manor (Dworek Jana Matejki), ul. Wańkowicza 25. Fridays: 10 - 14. Summer residence of
one of most well known Polish artists - Jan Matejko. Today a museum. 7 zł.
• Aviation Museum (Muzeum Lotnictwa), al. Jana Pawła II 39 (Czyżyny district). 9.00 - 17.00, Mondays closed.
A museum consisting of a new pavilion (good contemporary architecture) and few hangars filled with over two
hundred historic gliders, aircraft, helicopters and more. Among them is a collection of 22 extremely rare
antique planes that once belonged to Hermann Göring. The museum stands on the grounds of the RakowiceCzyżyny airfield, one of the oldest military airfields in Europe. Tuesdays free.
• Garden of Experiences, Polish Pilots Park, al. Pokoju (Czyżyny district), ☎ +48 12 346 12 85, e-mail:
[email protected]. April - October. Named after the most famous Polish SF writer Stanisław Lem,
the Garden is a place where kids (but not only them) can learn about optics, physics and astronomy using free
standing installations like Newton’s cradle, gongs, liquid vortexes etc. There’s also a spherical cinema with
educational films. 8 zł, 5.50 reduced.
3.2.3
Churches
• St. Venceslaus’ Church and Cistercian Abbey. Built in 1266 by the bishop Prandota for the Cistercians who
came to Mogila in 1220 invited by duke Leszek the White and bishop Iwo Odrowaz. The crossway was founded
30
CHAPTER 3. KRAKÓW/EAST
by Casimir the Great in the 14th century. The interior is painted by Stanislaw Samostrzelnik, considered to be
the best Polish Renaissance painter, who himself was a Cysterian. It also has beautiful stained glass windows
and a late gothic altar form 1514 by Szczodrowa. The stalls have fine baroque portraits. Inside the early baroque
chapel of Stefan Żółkowski is the wonderful gothic Cross of Mogiła. The facade is late baroque.
• St. Bartholomew’s Church. Stands opposite to the Cistercian Abbey. It is one of the oldest surviving examples of Polish wooden sacral architecture from the 15th century.
• “Lord’s Ark” Church. The church built during the 70s. Considered somewhat of a symbol of defiance against
communist government.
3.3 Do
If you looking for professional private tours of the former Communism District take Crazy Guides or the Communism
Guided Tour of Nowa Huta in original cars from the communist times. With the reference of the Historical Museum
of The City of Kraków and official Guides of Kraków.
• Teatr Ludowy (People’s Theater), Osiedle Teatralne 34, ☎ +48 12 68 02 100.
• Teatr Łaźnia Nowa, os. Szkolne 25.
• Kino Sfinks (Sphinx Cinema), os. Górali 5, ☎ +48 12 644 27 65 w.32. one of the smaller, quite forgotten
cinemas in Krakow, films usually arrive here a month after their premiere, but it’s definitely not a multiplex
experience.
Nowa Huta Lake
• Nowa Huta Lake. Artificial water reservoir right next to Huta centre. Place for sports, rollerskating, a sunbath
and swan feeding (don't do the last one, it’s forbidden).
• Com-Com Zone, ul. Ptaszyckiego 6. Sport centre close to Hutnik stadium: training halls, football pitches,
climbing wall, swimming pool, sauna. Swimming pool 12/9 zł, halls & gym & sauna 20 zł.
3.4. BUY
31
3.4 Buy
• Tomex. Open everyday from 8:00 till 18:00. Probably the biggest bazaar in Kraków is located in Nowa Huta
next to Kocmyrzowskie roundabout. Food, clothes (fake brands), electronics, everything.
• Skarbnica Bookstore, os. Centrum C 1. An old (over fifty years old) bookstore on pl. Centralny where you
can get, among other things, books and guides about Nowa Huta district.
3.5 Eat
• Bar Północny, os. Teatralne 11. Typical local milk bar. See milk bars.
• Bar Na Żółto I Na Niebiesko, os. Teatralne 3 (entrance from al. gen. W. Andersa). The name In blue and
in yellow derived from 70s hit song is also the key to interior design which is pretty scary. Still, food (typical
Polish fare) is cheap and OK. Pierogi: 6 - 10 zł.
• Stylowa, os. Centrum C 3, ☎ +48 12 682 11 10. Located close to the Central Square, it is the oldest restaurant
in Nowa Huta (opened in 1956), and is considered 'cult' by some. Remodeled in the 2000s but still has some
'communist' flavours. Very cheap compared to other upscale restaurants in the Old Town.
3.6 Drink
• Klub Kombinator, os. Szkolne 25, ☎ +48 692 84 84 00. coffee, beer, vodka and board games. open till
midnight.
• C-2 Południe Cafe, os. Górali 5. Mondays closed.
3.7 Sleep
• Dom Wycieczkowy PTTK, ul. Bulwarowa 37, ☎ +48 12 644 08 63, e-mail: [email protected].
One of the cheapest accommodation options in the city (since so far from the centre), 50 places in 4 and 6 bed
dorms. Shared bathrooms. Close to the Nowa Huta Lake and sport facilities. Real old-school. From 22 zł.
• Hotel Santorini, ul. Bulwarowa 35 b, ☎ +48 12 680 51 95, e-mail: [email protected]. Three stars.
27 rooms. Restaurant, bar, sauna. Free WiFi and parking. Double 230 zł.
• Hotel Centrum, os. Centrum E 12 (al. Jana Pawła II), ☎ +48 12 680 80 55, e-mail: [email protected].
Four stars. 28 rooms. Free WiFi, TV, AC, free breakfast between 7:00 and 10:00. Double 360 zł.
3.8 Connect
Chapter 4
Kraków/Kazimierz
Kazimierz
Kazimierz is a part of Old Town district of Krakow in Poland, prewar Jewish district.
32
4.1. UNDERSTAND
33
4.1 Understand
Kazimierz was a city founded in 1335 by Polish King Casimir III on an island on the Vistula river (this is now
imperceptible, because in 19th century the river branch between Kazimierz and Old Town was dried and built over).
Since the end of 15th century Jews became an important part of Kazimierz' population as they fled Krakow due to
antisemitism. The division of Kazimierz is still visible, the western part with pl. Wolnica and St. Michael’s Church
(Skałka) was Christian and the eastern with pl. Nowy and ul. Szeroka was Jewish.
Kazimierz became one of Krakow’s districts in 1791. In 1943 all Krakowian Jews were forced by the Nazi occupiers
to move to the ghetto located in Podgórze and later transported to death camps. After the war uninhabited houses
in Kazimierz were populated by a poor and sometimes criminal element, so Kazimierz gained the reputation of the
'bad neighbourhood' in Krakow.
In the nineties, however, a popular annual Jewish Culture Festival started, the city renovated old synagogues, and
new cafes, clubs and galleries opened. In the last twenty years the district underwent a typical gentrification process
and these days rents are really high and small galleries and eateries have started to give way to luxurious hotels.
4.2 Get in
From the Old Town head south with ul. Stradom or Starowiślna.
4.3 See
4.3.1
Museums and Galleries
Kazimierz Town Hall, 15th century, today Ethnographic Museum
34
CHAPTER 4. KRAKÓW/KAZIMIERZ
• Ethnographic Museum, Town Hall building, Plac Wolnica 1, 'Esterka' building, ul. Krakowska 46, ☎ +48
12 430 55 75. Located in the old 15th century Kazimierz town hall. 5 - 9 zł, Mondays closed.
• Museum of City Engineering (Muzeum Inżynierii Miejskiej), ul. św. Wawrzyńca 15, ☎ +48 12 421 12 42 /
wew.100. It is located in old tram sheds and on the grounds of former gasworks and powerplant. Inside you
can check the history of Polish automotive, public transportation, radio and tv, household and office appliances
industries. The museum is well prepared for younger visitors. 5 - 8 zł, Mondays closed, Tuesdays free.
• Centre for Jewish Culture (Judaica Foundation), ul. Meiselsa 17, ☎ +48 12 430 64 49. Exhibitions, concerts,
seminars and workshops on Jewish culture. There is also a cafe (with roof terrace!) and a great antiquarian
bookshop located in the basement.
• Galicia Jewish Museum, ul. Dajwór 18, ☎ +48 12 421 68 42, e-mail: [email protected].
10AM-6PM. The Galicja Museum in Kazimierz houses an exhibition of photographs with explanations in
Polish and English. These are recent photographs of locations around Poland associated with the Holocaust.
Some are places where massacres occurred; most show old synagogues and Jewish cemeteries with comments
about how respectfully (or not) these places are now preserved. The museum also has a bookstore and coffee
shop and arranges coach trips to Auschwitz. Tickets are 15 zł or 8 zł with a student discount.
• Jewish Community Centre, ul. Miodowa 24, ☎ +48 12 370 5 770. Exhibitions, events, lectures on Jewish
culture and language lessons.
4.3.2
Synagogues and Prayer Houses
Old Synagogue, 15th century
Before 1939 there were several dozen synagogues in Kazimierz. After the war most of them were destroyed or
converted to residential or public use buildings and their previous function is, after remodeling, imperceptible. Some
are still functioning as prayer houses or museums:
4.3. SEE
35
High Synagogue
• Old Synagogue, ul. Szeroka 24, ☎ +48 12 422 09 62, e-mail: [email protected]. Built sometime during
the 15th century, the synagogue is the oldest still standing synagogue in Poland. It was ransacked by the Nazis
36
CHAPTER 4. KRAKÓW/KAZIMIERZ
during WWII and was renovated between 1956 and 1959. Currently, it serves as a museum documenting
Jewish life in Kraków. Adults: 8 zł. Discounted: 6 zł.
• Remuh Synagogue (Synagoga Remuh), ul. Szeroka 40. Su. - F. 9AM - 6PM. The Synagogue and adjoining
Jewish Cemetery with the grave of Moses Isserles. Adults: 5 zł. Discounted: 2 zł.
• Tempel Synagogue, ul. Miodowa 24. Built in 1860 - 1862 Reform Judaic synagogue that is open to the
public. Since it’s an operational synagogue male visitors are expected to wear yarmulke and women should
dress somewhat conservatively and have their shoulders covered. During Nazi occupation, the synagogue was
used as a horse stable, but was eventually rededicated to its religious mission. Inside, the synagogue is beautiful,
it has a monumental example of Aron Kodesh made from Carrara marble and 43 stained glass windows.
• Bne Emuna Synagogue - corner of ul. Meiselsa and pl. Nowy. The building of Judaica Foundation – Centre
For Jewish Culture.
• Chewra Thilim Synagogue - corner or ul. Meiselsa and Bożego Ciała. Today an exhibition space with rare,
well preserved polychrome.
• Izaak Synagogue (Isaak Jakubowicz Synagogue) - corner of ul. Kupa and Izaaka. Built in 17th century was
considered the most beautiful in Krakow, after the war it was a theater, warehouse and sculpture workshop.
Since the 80s it was renovated and now serves as Jewish Education Centre and (since 2007) also for cult
purposes.
• Kowea Itim le-Tora Synagogue - ul. Józefa 42. Built in 1810 and renovated in 1912 (these dates are written
in Stars of David put on the facade). Devastated by Nazis the building became residential after the war.
• Kupa Synagogue - ul. Warschauera 8. Also called Hospital or Poor Synagogue as these were the people it
mostly served. After the war it was a warehouse and shoe factory, today it is one of the venues for religious
ceremonies and cultural festivals, Jewish Culture Festival among others.
• Mizrachi Synagogue - ul. Kupa 18. Built in 1930s right next to Izaak Synagogue. Since the 80s it serves as
a Jewish Culture Centre.
• Wolf Popper Synagogue - ul. Szeroka 16. Was one of the most splendid buildings in Kazimierz, devastated during the Nazi occupation. Today a cultural centre with workshops on dance, art classes, lectures, film
screenings etc.
• High Synagogue - ul. Józefa 38. Called high due to the fact that prayer room is located on the second floor
(this is the only example of that kind in Poland). Third synagogue built in Kazimierz, in Renaissance style. It’s
still in bad condition but conservators are working on the building. It is open to public and photo exhibitions
are sometimes put there.
• Great Mikveh - ul. Szeroka 6, building from 1567 rebuilt at the beginning of 20th century, today Klezmer
Hois restaurant and rooms. Ritual bath in the basements, around 40 steep stairs below ground level, can be
visited.
4.3.3
Churches
• Bożego Ciała Church (Corpus Cristi Church) — corner of ul. Bożego Ciała and pl. Wolnica. Gothic Church
erected by Kazimierz the Great in 1340. The greatest Italian artist of the Renaissance, Bartholomaeo Berrecci,
is buried here. The interior is baroque with a marvelous, high baroque altar and maybe the most beautiful
baroque stalls in Central Europe.
• Katarzyny Church (St. Cathrine’s Church) corner of ul. Augustiańska and Skałeczna — Gothic Church
erected by Kazimierz the Great in 1363 for the Augustinian Order. There is a beautiful baroque altar and the
Renaissance grave of bishop Spytek Jordan inside the church.
• Michala Church (St. Michael’s Church). ul. Skałeczna 15. With the monastery of the Paulins, one of the
oldest in Poland. The defensive position of the “Church on the Rock” (Skałka) brought settlement already in
the 9th century. Bishop St. Stanislaw is said to be killed there by King Boleslaw II in 1079. The garden pond
4.3. SEE
37
Great Mikveh building
St. Michael’s Church
is traditionally believed to have served for pagan sacrifices. Many famous Poles like Jan Długosz, Stanisław
38
CHAPTER 4. KRAKÓW/KAZIMIERZ
Wyspiański, Adam Asnyk, Karol Szymanowski, Józef Ignacy Kraszewski, Jacek Malczewski, and Czesław
Miłosz are buried there.
• Church of Holy Trinity (Church of Merciful Hospitalers) - ul. Krakowska 48. Constructed in 1741 by the
Trinities friars in late baroque style, according to a project of architect Franciszek Placidi. The interior of the
church was ornamented with rococo stucco decorations and illusion style polychrome.
4.3.4
Cemeteries
• Remuh Cemetery, ul. Szeroka 40. Old Jewish cemetery of Kraków. Located next to Remuh Synagogue was
established in 1535. It closed when the new cemetery at Miodowa was opened in year 1800. The most notable
person buried at Remuh Cemetery is Rabbi Moses Isserles, others include rabbis of the Jewish communities
in Vienna, in Prague and in Kraków and heads of Kraków Talmudic Academy. During Nazi occupation the
place was destroyed and tombstones reused as paving stones (in Kraków-Płaszów concentration camp). After
the war restoration of the cemetery was attempted, but not many tombstones could be found and today only
small fraction of the monuments stands again.
• New Jewish Cemetery, ul. Miodowa 55. Founded in 1800 and operational until around 1920 when it filled.
Nazi Germans closed the cemetery and sold the most valuable tombstones to masons for reuse. After the war
some of these were returned. Today cemetery has over ten thousand headstones, renovated brick mortuary,
lapidarium and a monument dedicated to Holocaust victims. Many notable people are buried here: rabbis,
tzadiks, Jagiellonian University professors, writers and painters (Maurycy Gottlieb).
4.4 Do
• Teatr Nowy (New Theatre), ul. Gazowa 21, ☎ +48 12 426 45 06.
• Jewish Culture Festival. Ten days long festival held since 1988 at the end of June.
4.5 Learn
• Jewish Community Centre, ul. Miodowa 24, ☎ +48 12 370 5 770. Jewish culture and language lessons,
exhibitions, lectures.
• ŻyWa Pracownia, ul. Bartosza 1, e-mail: [email protected]. Workshops for children and adults
on handcraft, like weaving wicker baskets, clay sculpting, traditional doll making etc.
4.6 Buy
There is a big mall located right next to Kazimierz district named, not surprisingly, Galeria Kazimierz. Over a
hundred stores with clothes, shoes, furniture, books etc. Also in the complex gourmet food market Alma and Cinema
City multiplex.
On ul. Józefa several funny galleries and small shops with hand-made souvenirs are located.
In the mornings head to plac Nowy to buy fresh fruits and vegetables from stalls. On Sunday morning there will be
a flea market. Another, bigger Sunday flea market is located next to Hala Targowa on ul. Grzegórzecka.
• Lokator, ul. Mostowa 1. Bookshop/cafe.
• IDEA FIX, ul. Bocheńska 7. Boutique with design, clothing, music etc. Polish designers only.
4.7. EAT
39
Bars and art galleries on ul. Józefa
4.7 Eat
Kazimierz has a place on Starowiślna street where the best ice-cream in Krakow are sold. ul. Starowiślna 83 (in
summer you'll know the place by the queue standing outside).
4.7.1
Budget
Try typical Polish street fast food zapiekanka. Those sold from windows of Okrąglak building in the middle of Nowy
square are considered to be the best in Krakow. In the evenings you will see queues of youngsters who just jumped
out of bars for a quick bite. There are other dishes available from the windows, but zapiekanka is the thing!
• Coca, ul. Kupa 3. Very small place with Sicilian food.
• Mały Śledź, ul. Bożego Ciała 11. Kazimierz outpost of Old Town’s bar Ambasada Śledzia. Different herring
dishes, bigos for 8 zł, also beer and vodka for 4 zł.
• Bagelmama, ul. Dajwór 10. Bagels, bagels, bagels, bagels, soups, salads, wraps.
4.7.2
Mid-range
• Fabryka Pizzy, ul. Józefa 34. 12.00-23.00. 32 cm pizzas 20 - 30 zł.
• Marchewka z Groszkiem, ul. Mostowa 2.
• Polakowski, ul. Miodowa 39. Polish dishes served cafeteria-style.
40
CHAPTER 4. KRAKÓW/KAZIMIERZ
4.7.3
Splurge
• Ariel Restaurant, ul. Szeroka 18, ☎ +48 12 421 7920. Daily 10AM-midnight. Traditional European Jewish
cuisine, not kosher.
• Klezmer-Hois, ul. Szeroka 6. Jewish cuisine.
• Hamsa (Hummus and Happiness Israeli Restobar), ul. Szeroka 2. 10:00-24:00. Middle-eastern cuisine: Israeli,
Syrian, Moroccan. Funny, bright interior, Eastern melodies.
• Studio Qulinarne, ul. Gazowa 4. 12:00-22:00. Postindustrial building with one wall opening in summer.
4.8 Drink
Bar on plac Nowy
Two biggest clusters of drinking establishments are pl. Nowy and ul. Józefa, lately (after opening of the footbridge
to Podgórze ul. Mostowa is gaining momentum.
4.8.1
Cafes
• Cafe Młynek, pl. Wolnica 7, ☎ +48 12 430 62 02. Great vegetarian food and a cozy bar, very good and one
of the few veggie places to serve alcohol in a bar setting.
• Cheder Cafe, ul. Józefa 36. Traditional Jewish place. They have Israeli coffee and a Judaica library.
4.8. DRINK
41
• Les Couleurs/Kolory, plac Nowy. French style cafe in the middle of Kazimierz district. Breakfasts!
4.8.2
Bars
• Alchemia, plac Nowy. Very popular, they defined the “Kazimierz style” years ago which is so unmistakable
that videoclips are being shot there. There are sometimes concerts or film screenings in the underground room.
• Bar Bałtyk, Brzozowa 8, ☎ 790613560, e-mail: [email protected]. 4pm - last client. New very popular bar
in sailors style, wide choice of beer and vodka. (updated Sep 2015)
• Esze & Eszeweria, ul. Józefa. Two bars opposite each other. Great music and decor. Eszeweria has a nice
small garden in the back.
• Kolanko no 6, ul. Józefa 17. Another example of Kazimierz style. A bar with concerts and film screenings
perfect for an evening drink as well as an afternoon coffee.
• La Habana, ul. Miodowa 22. A bar with Cuban atmosphere, refreshing beer - juice cocktails, Hemingway’s
favourite drinks and some light snacks.
• Le Scandale, plac Nowy. A huge selection of drinks with a great atmosphere.
• Miejsce, ul. Estery 1. Hipsterish.
• Mleczarnia, ul. Meiselsa 20. Typical Kazimierz place with chairs and tables found on the attic. Very nice
courtyard beer garden in summer.
• Mostowa ArtCafe, ul. Mostowa 8.
• Omerta, ul. Kupa 3. Disregard the mafia theme, what matters is 13 types of beer on tap and dozens more in
bottles! Hard to find a place in the evenings.
• Propaganda, ul. Miodowa 20. A tongue-in-cheek preservation of Warsaw Pact-era ambiance, posters, and
drinks.
• Singer, ul. Estery 20. The tables are actual sewing machine tables.
• Stajnia, ul. Meiselsa. A whiff of gone times inside, a lively beergarden outside, and a lot of slacking students
• Stara Zajezdnia, ul. Wawrzyńca 12. Former tram depot, later go-kart track where Polish F1 driver Robert
Kubica trained as a kid. Now a huge bierhalle with a restaurant and the longest bar in town, in future also
minibrewery. Several types of beer and whisky and sport events transmitted on few big screens (best time to
visit).
4.8.3
Clubs
This list includes places with designated dancefloors (dancing between tables in bars happens as well though).
• Cafe Kalashnikov, ul. Bożego Ciała 7. Quite big place, nice enclosed garden, reggae, world music weekend
parties in the basement.
• Cocon, ul. Gazowa 21. The biggest and most well-known gay club in Kraków, opening up to straights too
these days.
• Kitsch, ul. Dajwór 16. New incarnation of the legendary Wielopole club. LGBT friendly.
• Piękny Pies, ul. Bożego Ciała 9. Third installment of probably the most legendary bar/club in the city, opened
at the end of 2012 after moving from Old Town.
42
CHAPTER 4. KRAKÓW/KAZIMIERZ
4.9 Sleep
4.9.1
Budget
• Good Bye Lenin Hostel, ul. Berka Joselewicza 23. It’s clean and well-located hostel, but a little on the
expensive side. 30 - 140 zł.
• Green Hostel, ul. Krakowska 1, ☎ +48 12 422 74 74. 70 - 100 zł.
• Momotown Hostel, ul. Miodowa 28, ☎ +48 12 429 69 29.
• Nathan’s Villa, ul. św. Agnieszki 1 (In the Kazmierz neighborhood), ☎ +48 12 422 3545, e-mail: [email protected].
Great location, bar, internet, laundry, pool, films, BBQ. 40-400 zł.
• The Secret Garden Hostel, ul. Skawińska 7, ☎ +48 12 430 54 45.
4.9.2
Splurge
• Aparthotel Spatz, ul. Miodowa 11, ☎ +48 12 424 01 00.
• Rubinstein Hotel, ul. Szeroka 12, ☎ +48 12 384 00 00.
• Ester Hotel, ul. Szeroka 20, ☎ +48 12 429 11 88.
4.10 Connect
Chapter 5
Kraków/Old Town
Sukiennice at night
The Old City of Kraków, referred to in Polish as Stare Miasto, forms the historical kernel of this vibrant Polish city
and is the first target for most travellers to the city, with regard to accommodation, eating out, entertainment, and
attractions.
5.1 Understand
43
44
CHAPTER 5. KRAKÓW/OLD TOWN
5.1.1
Orientation
The area of the Old City is bounded by the ring of lightly-forested parkland, known as the Planty, that used to mark
the Old City walls and moat. The Wawel, the long-fortified hill at the southern end of the Old City, overlooks the
River Vistula, and forms an integral part of this district. The centre of the Old City (and of Kraków itself) is the
Rynek Główny (Main Market Square) from which all the main streets radiate.
In this article also the area known in Polish as Śródmieście (Inner city) is covered. It was developed behind torn
down medieval city walls on the grounds of surrounding villages and towns and today together with Old City forms
the I district of Kraków. Śródmieście is bordered by a ring road al. Trzech Wieszczów from the west and rail tracks
from the east.
5.1.2
InfoKrakow Tourist Information Offices
• Wyspiański Pavilion, pl. Wszystkich Świętych 2
• ul. św. Jana 2
• ul. Szpitalna 25 (in Planty park outside the underground passage leading from Train Station)
• ul. Powiśle 11 (in the pavilion at the foot of Wawel hill)
• Sukiennice, Rynek Główny 1-3
5.2 See
5.2.1
Major attractions
Wawel Castle courtyard
5.2. SEE
45
• Wawel Castle, Wawel 5, ☎ +48 12 422-51-55, +48 12 422-61-21, fax: +48 12 421-51-77, e-mail: [email protected].
Wawel is the name of a lime hillock situated on the left bank of the Vistula at an altitude of 228 metres above
sea level. This is a symbolic place of great significance for Polish people. The Royal Castle and the Cathedral
are situated on the Hill. Polish Royalty and many distinguished Poles are interred in the Cathedral and royal
coronations took place there. It’s considered to be the most beautiful castle in Central Europe, besides the
Hradcany in Prague.
• Cloth Hall (Sukiennice), Rynek Główny 1-3. Sukiennice was built in the early 14th century in the middle of
the Main Market Square as a trading hall in Gothic style. It got its present Renaissance look in 1555. In the
19th century, it was turned into a museum. The first floor was used for great banquets. Nowadays, souvenir
shops are there.
• Town Hall Tower, Rynek Główny 1. Part of the big 13th century Gothic-Renaissance Town Hall that once
stood on the Main Market. The town hall was destroyed by the Austrians in the 19th century after they took
control of Krakow. It is now one of the branches of Kraków Historical Museum, there’s a nice view of the city
from upstairs if it is open.
• Barbican (Barbakan). Barbakan was built in the 15th century as the biggest European defense building of
its kind. The Gothic Barbakan was meant to defend the Florian Gate from attacks of the Osman, which were
thought to attack Central Europe after conquering Constantinople and the Balkans in the late Middle Age.
• Florian Gate (Brama Floriańska). This gate is the only part of the medieval walls which has survived. It
consists of four towers and the arsenal and gives you a good idea of what the five kilometers of walls around
the Old City looked like in the Middle Ages.
5.2.2
Squares
• Main Market Square (Rynek Główny). A fine medieval square at the heart of the Old City, festooned with
churches, restaurants and bars. It is the biggest medieval marketplace worldwide with more than four hectares
of area and eleven streets beginning here.
• Little Market Square (Mały Rynek). A fine medieval square east of the Main Market Square.
• Mary’s Square (Plac Mariacki). A small medieval place connecting Main and Little Marketplaces. It was a
cemetery in the Middle Ages, but is now a charming and quiet place with the Sculpture of a medieval Cracovian
Student.
• All Saints’ Square (Plac Wszystkich Świętych). The name refers to the Gothic All Saints’ Church that stood
there until the 19th century. Actress Helena Modrzejewska and writer Joseph Conrad lived in houses at this
square. There are two beautiful Gothic churches, the St. Francis and the Dominicanus, at its western and
eastern ends.
• St. Mary Magdalene Square (Plac św. Marii Magdaleny). A fine square in the center of Okół, the oldest
part of the Old Town just under the Wawel. The early baroque St. Peter and Paul Church and the Roman St.
Andrew Church are there. In the middle stands the column of Piotr Skarga.
• Stefanus Square (Plac Szczepański). The name refers to the Gothic Stefanus Church that stood there until the
19th century. The secessionist Palace of Art and Old Theatre are there. Recently renovated in faux secessionist
style, which angered lots of citizens. Well, the fountain plays music in summer evenings.
• Square of the Holy Spirit (Plac św. Ducha). The name refers to the Gothic Holy Spirit Church that is located
on the square. Beautiful 19th century Słowacki Theatre is situated there as well.
5.2.3
Churches
• St. Mary’s Church (Bazylika Mariacka), Plac Mariacki 5 (Located on the southern end of the Rynek), ☎ +48
12 422-55-18 ext 21, fax: +48 12 421-07-85. Not during Mass, 12.00-18.00, 14.00-18.00 on Sundays. The
46
CHAPTER 5. KRAKÓW/OLD TOWN
first St. Mary’s Church was built in 1220. The façade consists of two unequal towers. The tune (hejnał) is
played from one of the towers every hour and on Polish Radio at noon. Inside the church, the east wall is taken
up by the altar of Veit Stoss (1477-89). It is the largest piece of medieval art of this kind. There is also an
altar with a stone crucifix by Veit Stoss. The wall paintings are by Matejko, Wyspianski, and Mehoffer. 6 zł,
reduced 3.
• St. Barbara Church — Founded in the 14th century by Mikolaj Wierzynek as a Gothic grave chapel, it was
remodeled in the early Baroque style in 1583. It housed a famous Jesuit college which competed with the
Jagiellonian University. Next to the main entrance is the Gethsemane, a complex of stone sculptures by Veit
Stoss.
• Church of St. Anne (Kolegiata św. Anny), ul. św. Anny 11, ☎ +48 12 422-53-18, fax: +48 12 421-51-41,
e-mail: [email protected]. This church was built in the 14th century and rebuilt in 1407
in Gothic style. It served as the University Church. It was rebuilt in baroque style in 1689 by Tylman from
Gameren modeled on S. Andrea della Valle in Rome. The corpus of the church was composed of a wide main
nave with three pairs of side chapels. The holy professor of theology Jan Kanty is buried there. His baroque
grave is one of the most beautiful in Central Europe.
• St. Adalbert’s Church (Kościół św. Wojciecha), Rynek Główny. One of the oldest churches in Central
Europe. History of the first wooden church on this site dates from 10th century. It is said to have been built
by a pagan cult. Holy Adalbert preached before his missionary expedition to Prussia in the late 10th century.
It was rebuilt in the 11th century in Romanesque style and enlarged in the 17th century in baroque shape.
• St. Peter and Paul Church, ul. Grodzka 52a. The oldest baroque building in Poland. It was built in 1597
by Jozef Britius for the Jesuit Order and completed by Jan Trevano. The stone façade is based on the Roman
church Il Gesu. You can see the longest Foucault’s pendulum in Poland (46,5 m) there. Showings on Thursdays.
• St. Andrew Church, ul. Grodzka 56. This is the best example of the Romanesque style in Poland. It was built
in the 11th century by Sieciech, palatine of duke Wladyslaw Herman. The fortifying character of the church
is visible and the church was the only place the Krakowians could flee successfully when the Tatars conquered
Kraków in 1241. Two beautiful slim Romanesque towers are covered with baroque helmets and the interior is
baroque, too.
• St. Giles Church. This church was founded in the 11th century by Duke Wladyslaw Herman as a votive
offering for the birth of their son. It was later rebuilt in the Gothic style at the end of the 13th century. The
Holy Mass is offered in English on Sundays at 10:30AM.
• St. Trinity Church. St. Trinity Church, a Dominican church, was built in 1222 in Romanesque style (the
refectory still is). It was rebuilt as a three-aisled basilica in the second half of 14th century and the 15th century.
It is filled with a countless number of tombs and the set of burial chapels of the 16th and 17th centuries was
second only to the Wawel Cathedral necropolis. The great fire of 1850 destroyed much of the church. There
is an amazing late 14th century stone portal richly ornamented with carved floral motifs located here.
• St. Mark Church. This was founded in the second half of the 13th century by Duke Boleslaw Wstydliwy.
On the wall of the apse stands the sculpted group Golgotha. Inside the church is a rococo pulpit with a worth
seeing cross.
• St. Thomas Church, ul. św. Jana. Built in 1618, this church was constructed in early baroque style for the
Carmelichans. Later, it was used by the nuns of the hospital of the Holy Ghost.
• Holy Cross Church. It was constructed in 1186. The oldest part of the church is a stone presbytery, while a
brick part of the construction dates from the 15th century. The interior is very beautifully decorated with wall
paintings dating back to 1420, like 'The Agony in the Garden' in the chapel and a wonderful Gothic palm vault
which is based on only one very high pillar.
• St. Martin Church — This church was raised in 1637 in Baroque style for the Discalced Carmelite nuns, but
is now a Protestant church. The Gothic crucifix above the altar is one of the oldest in Poland.
5.2. SEE
47
• Pijary Church — Built in 1718 by Kasper Bazanka, the late baroque shape of the façade was made by Franciszek Placidi in 1759. It was based on the Il Gesu church in Rome, but aiming to enhance the frontal effect
the architect added a decorative top story and flattened the divisions of the elevation.
• St. John’s the Baptist and St. John’s the Evangelist Church — It was built by Piotr Wlast from Skrzynno
in the 12th century in Romanesque style. In the 17th century, the church was altered in Baroque style. The
high altar contains a Renaissance painting called “The Mother of God redeeming the Slaves”.
• St. Francis Church (Franciscans) — Founded in the first half of the 13th century in Romanique style. In the
15th century, the church received its final Gothic form. In 1850, the grand fire of Kraków destroyed much of
the church. The reconstruction and redecoration took several dozen years. The present secession interior was
made by Stanislaw Wyspianski. The most authentic part of the church is the northern elevation of the transept,
surviving almost intact in its 13th century form. A place of special beauty are the Gothic cloisters surrounding
the rectangular viridarium, dating mostly from the first half of the 15th century.
• Reformatory Church of St. Casimir — Built in 1666, together with the monastery in baroque style. In the
crypta are graves of the brothers with mummified bodies, due to the special microclimate.
• St. Joseph Church — This church was built in 1694 at the place of the Tęczyński Palace in baroque style. It
was damaged in the big fire of 1850 but the interior was saved.
• Church Of Our Lady Of Snows — Constructed in 1632 founded by Anna Lubomirska as a vote to commemorate the victorious battle in 1621 in Chocim against the Osmans. It was destroyed during the Swedish
invasion in 1655 and rebuilt in 1671. The main altar has the painting of the “Our Lady Of Snows”, the gift from
the Pope Urban the VIII. Next to the church stands a cloister with some fragments of the defensive medieval
architecture, like a brick tower from the 13th century.
5.2.4
Monasteries
• Dominicans. The Dominicans came in 1222 to Kraków. After the Tatars destroyed this monastery, they
rebuilt it. Duke Leszek, the Black of Kraków, and Bishop Iwo Odrowaz were buried inside the church in the
13th century. Also the great Italian Humanist Fillipo Callimachus was buried there in the 15th century. His
grave was made by Veit Stoss and Peter Vischer. There are 13 chapels inside the church, the Sobieski Chapel
with graves of the family of king Jan III Sobieski, the golden Myszkowski Chapel full of pretty baroque and
gold, the manierist Dominican Chapel by Santi Gucci are the most beautiful. The Renaissance cross ways are
full of epitaphs and baroque paintings by Tomasz Dolabella. A beautiful Romanique Crypta is under the cross
ways.
• Franciscans. The Franciscans came in 1237 to Kraków. Their first monastery was destroyed by the Tatars in
1241 and 1259. In 1269, the saint Salomea was buried inside the St. Francis Church. In 1462, 1655 and 1850
parts of the monastery burned. The inside is Gothic and secession. The famous window “Good Father the
Creator” by Stanislaw Wyspianski is there. The cross ways are very worth seeing with their Gothic frescoes. It
has been a basilica since 1920.
5.2.5
Palaces
• Palace of the Bishops of Krakow (Pałac Biskupow Krakowskich), ul. Franciszkańska 3. Renaissance palace
with a beautiful yard. It is world famous as the home of Pope John Paul II. Starting in 1963, he lived there as
the bishop/cardinal of Kraków. After he became pope, he always stayed at there while in Kraków. His small
talks from the window with Krakowians are famous. Often one can find a candle in the window and many
candles and flowers under it.
• Bishop Erazm Ciołek Palace (Pałac Biskupa Erazma Ciolka), ul. Kanonicza 17.
• Palace of Art (Pałac Sztuki), pl. Szczepański 4. Mon-Fri 08:15-18.00, Sat-Sun 10:00-18:00. 10 zł adults, 5
reduced.
• Pałac Wielkopolskich (Palace of the Wielkopolskis), pl. Wszystkich Świętych (Town Hall today).
48
CHAPTER 5. KRAKÓW/OLD TOWN
• Pałac Zabarskich (Palace of the Zabarskis), Rynek Główny 20 (Goethe Institut).
• Pałac Pod Baranami (Palace Under the Lambs), Rynek Główny 27.
• Pałac Pod Krzysztofory (Palace under the Krzysztofory), Rynek Główny 35 (Kraków Historical Museum).
5.2.6
University Buildings
All over Old Town you can find campus parts of the second oldest university in this part of Europe: Jagiellonian
University. You are free to enter (and leave) all buildings at your leisure (mind the students milling around every day
of the week).
• Collegium Maius, ul. Jagiellońska 15. This is the oldest of the university buildings, erected in 1364 as part of
the University of Kraków. It was completed in 1400 and has preserved its Gothic scape. It has a beautiful court
yard and chambers, of which the stuba communis is considered to be the most important. Niclaus Copernicus,
Jan III Sobieski, and John Paul II studied here. Today, there is a university museum in the building with
the instruments of Copernicus, the first globe with America, and many other medieval instruments. The first
liquefaction of oxygen was there in the 19th century.
• Collegium Juridicum — This is a Gothic building in the oldest part of the Old City (“Okol”), opposite the
Peter and Paul Church. It has a very nice Renaissance Yard with Arcades and Sculptors of Igor Mitoraj.
• Collegium Medicum — This is a Renaissance building in the academic part of the Old City opposite the St.
Anna Church, which is the university church since 1409. It has a very nice Renaissance Yard with Arcades.
• Collegium Novum — One of Central Europe’s most beautiful Neogothic buildings. It was built in the 19th
century and has been the headquarters of the Jagiellonian University since then. The big neogothic stairways
inside the building are worth seeing.
• Pope John Paul II Academy — Big neo-Gothic building under the Wawel Castle at the beginning of the
Planty Park.
5.2.7
Parks
• Planty park surrounding the medieval city. It was set up in the 19th century in the place of torn down town
walls.
• Wawel Gardens.
5.2.8
Museums and Galleries
• National Museum (Muzeum Narodowe) branches (free on Sundays, with exception of temporary exhibitions):
• Czartoryski Museum, ul. św. Jana 19. Art collection of 18th century Polish magnate family.
“Lady with an Ermine” (also known as the Polish Mona Lisa) by Leonardo da Vinci and “The
Landscape with Good Samaritan” by Rembrandt van Rijn among others. Currently closed for
renovation; the Da Vinci is on temporary display at the Wawel Castle, quite strikingly in a room by
itself (admission 10 zł, free on Sundays - but you still need to have a ticket). Be aware that there is
a limited supply of tickets to see it every day (you'll see how many remain on displays in the ticket
hall), each with an assigned time of entry.
• The Gallery of The 19th-Century Polish Art, Rynek Główny 3 (In the Cloth Hall (Sukiennice)),
☎ +48 12 424 46 03. 10.00 – 18.00. One of the best collections of 19th century paintings in
Poland. 12 / 6 zł, free on Mondays.
• Jan Matejko House (Dom Jana Matejki), ul. Floriańska 41. 10.00 – 18.00. Atelier of the best
known 19th century Polish painter. 8 zł, 4 reduced.
5.3. DO
49
• Józef Mehoffer House (Dom Józefa Mehoffera), ul. Krupnicza 26. We - Su: 10.00 – 16.00.
Atelier of one the best known Polish painters with great garden and a cafe. 6 zł, 3 reduced.
• Szołaysky House (Kamienica Szołayskich), ul. Szczepańska 11. 10.00 – 18.00. Temporary exhibitions of Polish art, mainly relating to the period of Young Poland. There’s also a collection of
works by Stanisław Wyspiański. 8 zł, 4 reduced.
• Krakow Historical Museum (Muzeum Historyczne Miasta). Branches (free on Tuesdays):
• Krzysztofory Palace (Pałac Krzysztofory), Rynek Główny 35. The main building. Usual historical
museum stuff: armour, swords etc. Every year after Christmas there is an exhibition concerning
local tradition: Krakow szopka (characteristic nativity scene where historical buildings of Kraków
are used as backdrop for the Nativity of Jesus.)
• Rynek Underground (Podziemia Rynku), Rynek Główny 1 (entrance in Sukiennice opposite the
fountain). 10.00–20.00/22.00; closed every first Tuesday of a month. Shows relics of structures
hidden under the current Market Square surface. 17 zł, reduced /group 14.
• Town Hall Tower (Wieża Ratuszowa), Rynek Główny 1. 10.30–18.00; April - October. Great
view over the Market Square. 7 zł, reduced 5.
• Barbican, City Defense Walls, the Celestat. History of city’s fortifications and defenders. The
Celestat is a genuine headquarter of one of the oldest, existing continuously for over 700 years
rifle-clubs. Combined ticket valid for a week: 6 zł, reduced 4.
• Archeological Museum (Muzeum Archeologiczne), ul. Senacka 3. Opening hours vary, Saturdays closed.
Nice garden. 7 zł, reduced 5.
• Natural History Museum, ul. Św. Sebastiana 9. Among other exhibits unique woolly rhinoceros from twelve
thousand years ago. Currently closed for visitors.
• Bunker of Art (Bunkier Sztuki), pl. Szczepański 3A. 11.00-18.00, Mondays closed. Gallery of contemporary
art near Main Square. Also a book shop and nice cafe in the “bunker”. 10 zł, reduced 5; art students can try
to get in for free.
• International Cultural Centre (Międzynarodowe Centrum Kultury), Rynek Główny 25, ☎ +48 12 42 42
800, 811. 11.00-18.00, Mondays closed. Very well prepared temporary art exhibitions in a nicely remodeled
and renovated building on Main Square. There’s also a library and a terrace on the roof with views of the city
centre. 10 zł, reduced 6.
5.3 Do
5.3.1
Theaters
• Juliusz Słowacki Theatre (Teatr Słowackiego), pl. Św. Ducha 1, ☎ +48 12 424 45 00, e-mail: [email protected].
If you're walking the most direct route from the train station to the Rynek (or vice versa), it’s nearly impossible to miss this building. Its stunning façade is enough reason to visit, but attending one of the theater’s
performances sweetens the deal.
• Old Theatre (Stary Teatr), ul. Jagiellońska 5, ☎ +48 12 422 4040, e-mail: [email protected]. Located in a
Kraków style Art Nouveau building next to pl. Szczepański.
• Kameralny Theatre ul. Starowiślna 21, Old Theatre’s second stage.
• Bagatela Theatre, Ul. Karmelicka 6 (corner with Krupnicza). Light plays, comedies mostly.
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CHAPTER 5. KRAKÓW/OLD TOWN
• Groteska Theatre, Ul. Skarbowa 2. Puppet theatre, plays for kids mostly but they also do experimental stuff
for mature audience.
• Scene under the Town Hall (Scena pod Ratuszem), Rynek Główny 1. The scene located in Town Hall’s
basement is part of People’s Theatre (Teatr Ludowy) based in Nowa Huta.
• PWST Theatre. Academy for the Dramatic Arts school’s theatre.
• Małopolski Ogród Sztuki (MOS), ul. Rajska 12. Multifunctional space opened in 2012 is a place for plays,
exhibitions and concerts.
• Krakow Philharmonic (Filharmonia Krakowska), ul. Zwierzyniecka 1, ☎ +48 12 619 87 33, e-mail: fk@filharmonia.krakow.pl.
Tu - Fr 11AM - 2PM, 3PM - 7PM.
5.3.2
Cinemas
• ARS, ul. św. Tomasza 11. A film theatre with four screens named Aneks, Reduta, Kiniarnia and Salon,
differing in atmosphere. For example in Reduta popcorn and cola are forbidden and Kiniarnia is basically a
cafe with a screen. European, art cinema, retrospectives, documentaries, classics. Definitely not a multiplex
experience.
• Kino pod Baranami, Rynek Główny 27. Cinema in a beautiful palace with three screens. Similar to ARS
with their selection of films. They have special screenings of Polish films with subtitles in English!
• Agrafka, ul. Krowoderska 8. Arthouse.
5.4 Buy
The Rynek and the surrounding streets have fashionable clothing stores.
• Galeria Krakowska. A big mall near the main railway station. You can find clothes (like H&M), souvenirs,
bookstores etc. in there.
5.4.1
Bookstores
• Bona, ul. Kanonicza 11. Books in different languages, cracoviana, art albums and nicely designed children
books. Also a cafe.
• House of Albums, ul. Zwierzyniecka 17. Shop full of albums on art, film, photography, architecture and
more.
• Młoda Księgarnia, pl. Szczepański (on the ground floor of the museum). Books and less obvious souvenirs
like handmade toys and Polish design.
There are also several interesting antique book shops in the centre.
5.5 Eat
5.5.1
Budget
• U Babci Maliny, ul. Szpitalna 38, ul. Sławkowska 17. The name literally means At Grandma Raspberry’s
in Polish. Genuine Polish food that might be served by your grandmother which is cheap and delicious. The
two branches are different in character. The one at Sławkowska is self-service, featuring communal seating at
long wooden tables and benches. Make your order at the counter, then listen for your number to be called (or
5.5. EAT
51
look for it on the wall display) to go and pick up your food. The menu is in Polish but there are English menus
available - ask. The street sign is on the wall of the Polish Academy of Crafts - enter the big doors, go to the end
of the hall, turn left, go out into the courtyard, then left again and downstairs. The one on Szpitalna, in addition
to a small self-serve area, also has a cellar which is all tablecloths, candles and drapes, with hearty traditional
meals in the evenings served by waitresses wearing traditional dress, and live piano music. The menu, while
more elaborate, is still on the affordable side. From €2.
• Green Way, ul. Mikołajska 14 (just off the Small Square), ☎ +48 12 431 10 27. 10AM-10PM. Quite wide
variety of vegan and vegetarian food, with amazing huge smoothies (labelled cocktails) for under €1. Selfservice, friendly staff, and a huge variety of products from soups to samosas to enchilladas to satisfy anyone
who typically eats meat too. from €2.
• Gospoda Koko, ul. Gołębia 8, ☎ +48 12 430 21 35. 8AM-3AM, yes 3AM!!!. Quite small, quirky self-service
restaurant. The menu is in Polish and English. The fare is typically Polish, the daily deal is a soup followed by
a main served with a side salad at a fixed price of 14zł. Half of this for less hungry costs 9,5zł. 14zł. (updated
Jun 2015)
5.5.2
Mid-range
• Cechowa, ul. Jagiellońska 11. Traditional Polish cuisine, not expensive. A TAM exhibition in the pub in the
cellar.
• Charlotte, pl. Szczepański. French bistro.
• Chimera, ul. św. Anny 3. Restaurant with traditional Polish cuisine located in a cellar and an inexpensive
salad bar (with big variety of salads) located in the yard of a Renaissance house. Beer garden and wine cellar.
• C.K. Dezerter, ul. Bracka 6, ☎ +48 12 422 79 31. a very warm and friendly place — the posh side of rustic
in atmosphere and decor. The food is a great blend of traditional Polish and mainly central European cuisine,
large portions, and exceedingly good value. 50-60 zł, including wine.
• Da Pietro, Rynek Główny 17. Italian cuisine, very good pizzas.
• Glonojad, Plac Matejki 2. 9AM-10PM. Home made vegetarian meals, pastries, fresh juices, shakes, and
smoothies plus great view of Matejko Square. Free WiFi and PC. Inexpensive.
• Invito Pizza&Pasta, ul. św. Tomasza 33, ☎ +48 12 421 30 92. Mostly pizza and pasta, but a huge selection of
each, with chicken, soup and other dishes too. Pizza is great value, but you cannot physically eat a small pizza
alone, and a large is best shared between two very very hungry people, or three. Pasta dishes are also large
but single portions. Staff speak English, with English menus available, though mostly frequented by locals.
Football often showing. starters from €1.50, mains from around €4.
• Paese, ul. Poselska 24. Corsican cuisine, a lot of fish dishes.
• Vega Vegetarian Bar, ul. Krupnicza 22. Good food, no beer.
5.5.3
Splurge
• Miód i Wino, ul. Sławkowska 32, ☎ +48 12 422 74 95, e-mail: [email protected]. Restaurant with
amazing medieval times interiors. Food is very good (try the duck) and often served after a little chivalry show
by young waiters. €20 to get filled.
• Cyrano de Bergerac, ul. Sławkowska 26. Very good wine and French cuisine. Expensive.
• Wentzl, Rynek Główny 19, ☎ +48 12 429 52 99. Polish, European cuisine.
• Wierzynek, Rynek Główny 15. Traditional Polish cuisine, according to the legends, the oldest restaurant in
Poland. Mikołaj Wierzynek invited several kings and the German Emperor in 1364 to a feast there and gave
them the golden dishes they ate from.
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CHAPTER 5. KRAKÓW/OLD TOWN
5.6 Drink
5.6.1
Cafes
The cafe tradition of Kraków reaches the Battle of Vienna in 1683, when the Polish hussars returned with a lot of
conquered Osman Coffee. Some of the most famous cafes are:
• Cafe Bunkier, pl. Szczepański 3a. Big patio open to Planty park right next to Bunkier Sztuki gallery of
contemporary art.
• Cafe Lody u Jacka i Moniki, ul. Sławkowska. They have one of the best ice cream in Kraków in the summer
and good coffee in the autumn and winter time. They offer very good cakes, especially the traditional kremówka
- a vanilla flavored cream cake or a warm apple pie with whipped cream. Try out their hot chocolate and fruit
cocktails.
• Café Malaga, Rynek Główny 11, courtyard. A cozy, small café where you can enjoy a Krakowian iced coffee,
huge Polish cheesecake and a variation of hot and cold drinks. It specializes on wines from the Spanish Malaga
district, but offers a large variation of Polish beverages and cakes. Even though it might be tricky to find, it’s
worth checking out for the atmosphere alone!
• Cafe Mozaika, ul. Gołębia 5. Artistic interior.
• Loch Camelot, ul. św. Tomasza 17. Naive art pictures and good szarlotka (apple cake). Klezmer music and
cabaret Loch Camelot.
• Jama Michalika, ul. Floriańska 45. The most famous cafe in Krakow, with secession interior. The legendary
cabaret Zielony Balonik (Green Balloon) was there in the 19th century. Most Polish artists of Young Poland
met here and left some pieces of art. frequented and decorated by artists of the Young Poland (Młoda Polska)
movement. Plenty of art nouveau style and original paintings.
• Mamy Cafe, ul. Sławkowska 20. Children friendly cafe with great interiors. Perfect if you want to enjoy a
cup of coffee and take your toddler with you.
• Massolit, ul. Felicjanek 4/2, ☎ +48 12 432 41 50. A cafe is only a part of a great English-language used book
store. You can browse the shelves and read English-language newspapers. They also have some American style
bagels. 5 - 7 zł.
• Nowa Prowincja, ul. Bracka 3-5. Artistic atmosphere, check out the hidden room on the first floor (guess
how to get there).
• U Literatów, ul. Kanonicza 7. Very cultural cafe, meeting point of poets and writers.
• Wedel Cafe, Rynek Główny 46. A cafe with a beautiful medieval courtyard, on the main square. Wonderful
chocolate drinks and cakes.
If you're looking for a more American coffee experience, check out Coffeeheaven (Karmelicka 5 and Galeria Kazimierz) or Tribeca Coffee (Rynek Główny 27).
5.6.2
Bars
• Ambasada Śledzia (Herring Embassy), ul. Stolarska. 24/7. Nice outside patio and interesting interior with
poetry written all over the walls. Every drink (coffee, tea, beer, vodka shot) is 4 zł, most of the food 8 zł and
if you want to try some typical Polish dishes eaten for lunch as well as between vodka shots this is the place.
• Banialuka, pl. Szczepański 6. 24/7. Another example of the 4/8 zł type. Quite popular among Erasmus
crowds.
5.6. DRINK
53
• Betel, pl. Szczepański 3. Great beer garden in a courtyard.
• Bomba Na Placu, pl. Szczepański 2/1. Interesting interior, free concerts on weekends.
• Harris Piano Jazz Bar, Rynek Główny 28. A packed underground jazz bar with great music - 6,5zł for a
beer, get there early to get seats. Live concerts every day.
• Klub RE, ul. św. Krzyża 4. Underground bar with alternative music concerts. In summer they have one of
the nicest beer gardens in the city.
• House of Beer, ul. św. Tomasza 35 (entrance from św. Krzyża). Currently has the widest selection of beer in
all of Krakow. Over 150+ beer labels from all over Europe + 8 beer taps.
• Paparazzi, ul. Mikołajska 9, ☎ +48 12 429 45 97. Best cocktails in town. A cozy place with a lot of pictures
of known people and great atmosphere. Every Thursday from 6PM to 10PM a special menu with each order
made double!
• Pauza, ul. Floriańska 18. Kind of a culture centre with a club in the basements and long-time trendy bar on
the first floor. No sign on the street.
• Pergamin, Bracka 3-5. Chill-out music bar.
• Pierwszy Lokal na Stolarskiej po lewej stronie idąc od Małego Rynku (The First Place on the Left Side of
Stolarska if You Come from Small Square), ul. Stolarska 6/1. Best name ever! They have really good beer on
tap called Smocza Głowa (Dragon’s Head) which is made locally and hard to get.
• Wódka Cafe Bar, ul. Mikołajska 5. Small place with around a hundred different vodkas to be tasted.
5.6.3
Clubs
Dance venues are scattered around Old Town and located mostly in Kraków’s medieval cellars. Streets with higher
density of these establishments include Szewska, św. Tomasza and Szpitalna streets.
• Alternatywy 4, Mały Rynek 4. Basements below Mały Rynek.
• Cień, Ul. św. Jana 15. Since 2003 one of the most popular clubs in the city centre. Several underground
rooms and three bars. Door selection.
• Frantic, Ul. Szewska 5. House music.
• Jazz Club u Muniaka, Ul. Floriańska 3. Good Polish jazz played by Trio Muniaka.
• JazzRock Cafe, ul. Sławkowska 12. A basement filled with hard rock music and dark crowds. No jazz. Plus
Antycafe on ground floor - slightly more civilised.
• Ministerstwo, Ul. Szpitalna 1.
• Pod Jaszczurami, Rynek Główny 8. Legendary student club with live music. Definitely less popular these
days.
There is an unusual attraction - Tram Parties. Lots of people drinking and dancing in a tram that rides around the
city, later (after 11PM or so) everyone moves to one of clubs.
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CHAPTER 5. KRAKÓW/OLD TOWN
5.7 Sleep
5.7.1
Budget
• Atlantis Hostel, ul. Dietla 58, ☎ +48 12 421 08 61, e-mail: [email protected]. Check website for discounts.
Dorms from €8.
• Blue Hostel, ul. Westerplatte 12/7, ☎ +48 12 429 59 34. Cozy and homely atmosphere, but aimed more
towards the Polish than international tourists. Dorms from 40 zł.
• Cracow Hostel, Rynek Główny 18, ☎ +48 691 659 407, e-mail: [email protected]. Dorms from
40 zł (18-bed room).
• Dizzy Daisy, ul. Pędzichów 9, ☎ +48 12 292 01 71. 30-90 zł.
• Flamingo Hostel, ul. Szewska 4, ☎ +48 12 422 0000, e-mail: office@flamingo-hostel.com. Dorms from 40
zł.
• Football Corner Hostel, ul. Wróblewskiego 3/4, ☎ +48 12 633 95 17, e-mail: [email protected].
Dorms for 4, 6 and 8 persons. Free breakfast, Wifi and live broadcast of football matches 40 - 65 zł.
• Let’s Rock Hostel, ul. Grodzka 34, ☎ +48 12 430 30 53, e-mail: [email protected]. Part of the
famous Good Bye Lenin Hostels in Poland. Dorms from 30 zł.
• Greg and Tom Hostel, ul. Pawia 12, ul. Zyblikiewicza 9, ☎ +48 12 422 41 00, e-mail: [email protected].
Clean and friendly hotel. Events and tour everyday. Dorms from 55, 60 zł.
• Hostel Rynek 7, Rynek Główny 7, ☎ +48 12 431 16 98, e-mail: [email protected]. View on the Market
Square from every window. 40 −150 zł.
• Mama’s Hostel, ul. Bracka 4. Next to Main Square. 6, 8, and 10 person/room. Free breakfast. 40 - 90 zł.
• Mundo Hostel, ul. Sarego 10, ☎ +48 12 422 61 13, e-mail: offi[email protected]. Between Old Town and
the Jewish City. Spacious, themed rooms (mainly double ones). Clean and modern. 60 - 90 zł.
• NF Hostel, ul. Westerplatte 7, ☎ +48 12 422 77 66, e-mail: [email protected]. Free WiFi, breakfast and
TV. Single from 70 zł.
• Old Town Hostel, pl. Wszystkich Świętych 8, ☎ +48 12 429 59 64, e-mail: [email protected]. Checkout: 12:00. Nice and clean. 50 zł dorm, 150 zł app.
• Tutti-Frutti Hostel, ul. Floriańska 29. If you get a lower dorm, expect A LOT of noise until gone midnight
as reception is directly outside the door of your dorm, as are the bathrooms! Definitely not for people who
want to go to sleep early. Dorms from 50 zł.
• Hostel Yellow, ul. Dunajewskiego 6, ☎ +48 12 4441170, e-mail: [email protected]. 45 - 90 zł.
5.7.2
Mid-range
Kraków offers a large number of two and three star hotels, priced at €25-40 per night. The most expensive of these
hotels are actually in the Old Town proper.
• Hotel Batory, Ul. Sołtyka 19. Three star hotel located downtown Krakow, just minutes from the Old Town,
train, and railway stations, as well as, main shopping centers. Batory is known for its ambiance and family
atmosphere.
5.8. CONNECT
55
• Hotel Logos, Ul. Szujskiego 5. Is a cozy and elegant hotel of three star category with location in the center of
the Kraków - Old Town recommended by the Polish Hotel Association. Logos is known for its excellent food
and wide range of extra services.
• Poselska 20, Ul. Poselska 20, ☎ +48 513 158 056. Elegant hotel rooms in a renovated apartment house located
on beautiful Poselska street.
• Tango House Bed & Breakfast, Ul. Szpitalna 4. Boutique style lodging right around from the Main Market
Square. Tango House is a cozy bed and breakfast with a Tango theme, warm staff while offering modern
rooms, stylish bathrooms, wireless internet, daily maid service, and satellite TV.
5.7.3
Splurge
• Hotel Copernicus, Kanonicza 16, ☎ +48 12 424 34 00, fax: +48 12 424 34 05, e-mail: [email protected].
Check-in: 2PM, check-out: 1PM. Tucked away on one of Krakow’s most beautiful streets, Kanonicza. If you're
looking for an authentic European feel, while maintaining a five-star experience, this is the place.
• Hotel Grand, ul. Sławkowska 5/7, ☎ +48 12 424 08 00, fax: +48 12 421 83 60, e-mail: [email protected].
Check-in: 4PM, check-out: Noon. Traditional luxury secessionist palace belonging once to the Czartoryski
Family, who founded the Czartoryski Museum in the 18th century not far away.
• Hotel Pod Różą, ul. Floriańska 14, ☎ +48 12 424 33 00, fax: +48 12 424 33 51, e-mail: [email protected].
Check-in: 2PM, check-out: Noon. The oldest, and one of the best hotels in Poland. It showcases a very good
restaurant and wine cellar. Tsar Alexander I and Franz Liszt stayed here. A Renaissance building with a
beautiful gate. Read the Latin writing above the entrance.
• Hotel Wentzl, Rynek Główny 19, ☎ +48 12 430 26 65, fax: +48 12 430 26 64, e-mail: [email protected].
One of the best known high class hotels in Kraków and the only one located right on Rynek Główny. Set in a
15th century house, John Wentzl opened the Wentzl restaurant in this building in 1792. €159+.
• Ostoya Palace Hotel, Ul. Piłsudskiego 24. A four star hotel in a 19th century mansion about 5–10 minutes
walk from Rynek Główny. The rooms are beautifully furnished in pastel colors with custom-made furniture.
If possible get a ground or first floor room; the second floor rooms (while still very nicely apportioned) have
skylights rather than windows. Staff are very friendly and helpful; the buffet breakfast is also good, with tasty
pastries, cheese and ham, and proper coffee.
• Radisson Blu, Ul. Straszewskiego 17. Situated within walking distance from Main Market Square and Royal
Wawel Castle.
• Sheraton Krakow, Ul. Powiśle 7. A big, ugly, five star hotel located right on the Vistula river with a great
view of the Wawel castle.
• Venetian House Aparthotel, Rynek Główny 11. A new and luxurious apartment hotel located directly on
Krakow’s Main Market Square.
5.8 Connect
Half of bars and cafes have WiFi, just ask for the password while ordering.
Main library on ul. Rajska has free WiFi on the second floor.
There are few Internet cafes:
• Garinet, ul. Floriańska.
• Nandu, ul. Wiślna.
• one in pasaż Bielaka (hidden shortcut connecting Main Market Square and ul. Stolarska)
• Hetmańska, pasaż hetmański (entrance from ul. Bracka). Open 24/7.
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CHAPTER 5. KRAKÓW/OLD TOWN
5.8. CONNECT
Medieval Barbican
St. Mary Magdalene Square
57
58
The Planty park
Inside the Gallery of The 19th-Century Polish Art in Sukiennice
CHAPTER 5. KRAKÓW/OLD TOWN
Chapter 6
Kraków/South
Southern part of Kraków consists of six districts. Most interesting are Podgórze and Dębniki, located on the Vistula river bank opposite the Old Town. Districts further south (Łagiewniki, Kurdwanów, Bieżanów) are mainly
residential.
6.1 Understand
Podgórze was granted city status in 1784 and until 1915 was an independent city. In 1915 it become a district
Krakow and at that time it was one fifth of the whole Krakow city size.
In 1941 Kraków Ghetto was formally established in Podgórze by Nazi occupation authorities. In 1943 the Ghetto
was 'liquidated' and inhabitants were moved to concentration camps. The monument located on the Ghetto Heroes
Square (Plac Bohaterów Getta) is inspired by that moment, when deported Jews were forced to leave their belongings
(furniture among others) on the square before mounting trains headed to the camps. See Steven Spielberg’s award
winning film Schindler’s List shot in Krakow in 1993 to catch a glimpse of life conditions in Krakow Ghetto and KL
Krakow - Plaszow and understand the story behind Oscar Schindler’s enamel factory. There are still some props left
from shooting the film in Liban work camp, but it’s important to know those are not the real thing.
Podgórze to this day remains one of most 'industrialized' districts in Krakow, but lately a kind of gentrification process
takes place with new cultural (like Museum Of Contemporary Art Krakow) and housing projects appearing in former
industrial areas.
6.2 Get in
Stroll from Kazimierz through the bike/footbridge called “The Father Bernatek’s Footbridge” (originally in Polish
“Kładka Bernatka”) at the end of ul. Mostowa. This footbridge will deliver you nearby to the Rynek Podgórski
(Podgórze Market) surroundings.
6.3 See
6.3.1
Podgórze
• Krak Mound (Kopiec Krakusa). Manmade hill (with great views of the city) which age and purpose remain
unknown. Some believe it has Celtic origins and is over two thousand years old. There is a folk fest every year
on the first Tuesday after Easter.
• Fort Benedict (Fort Benedykta). Gun turret built between 1853 and 1856. Unique in terms of European
fortress architecture.
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CHAPTER 6. KRAKÓW/SOUTH
St Joseph’s church in Rynek Podgórski
• Krakow-Plaszow concentration camp (Obóz Koncentracyjny Kraków-Płaszów). Area of former camp is
now grass fields and hills with one large stone monument commemorating the victims. Also the villa of Amon
Göth, the commandant of the camp, is still standing. See Holocaust remembrance for context.
• Liban work camp (obóz pracy Liban). Camp for Polish and Ukrainian prisoners who worked in very harsh
6.3. SEE
Krak Mound
Stone memorial on the grounds of KL Plaszow
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CHAPTER 6. KRAKÓW/SOUTH
Ghetto walls
conditions in a quarry and lime kiln.
• Ghetto walls. There are two places where you can still see remains of the wall shaped like a row of matzevas
(Jewish tombstones). One at ul. Lwowska is fitted with memorial plaque, the other, less known, is behind the
school at ul. Limanowskiego 60 - 62.
• Bednarski Park (Park Bednarskiego) (behind St. Joseph’s Church). Established (by the end of 19th century) around former industrial area (limestone quarry). These days slightly run down but has its own unique
atmosphere and is considered the most beautiful park in Krakow.
Museums and Galleries
• MOCAK (Museum Of Contemporary Art Krakow), ul. Lipowa 4. 11 am - 7 pm; Mondays closed. One of
the newest museums in Krakow, located in renovated buildings belonging to the former Schindler’s Factory,
houses a permanent collection and temporary exhibitions of modern art, sometimes the 'I don't get it' kind.
Inside a bookstore with albums on not only Polish art and a cafeteria. 10 zł, reduced 5; Tuesdays free.
• Schindler’s Factory Emalia, ul. Lipowa 4. 10 am - 6/8 pm (winter/summer season). Museum houses a
permanent exhibition concerning Krakow under Nazi occupation, it is located in the administrative building of
former Schindler’s Factory. 19 zł, reduced 16; November – March Mondays (open till 2 pm) free.
• Under the Eagle Pharmacy (Apteka pod Orłem), pl. Bohaterów Getta 18. 9:00 - 17:00. Exhibition focuses
on the pharmacist - Tadeusz Pankiewicz, a Righteous among the Nations and life in Jewish Ghetto and Plaszow
camp. Museum was renovated as memory lab and expanded in March 2013. 10 zł, reduced 8; Mondays (open
10:00 −14:00) free.
• Tadeusz Kantor Museum, ul. Nadwiślańska 4. Museum documenting life and work of one of most important
20th century Polish artists. Rusty structure built on the Vistula bank, opened in 2014.
6.3. SEE
63
Manggha Centre of Japanese Art & Technology
Tadeusz Kantor Museum
• Gallery Starmach, ul. Węgierska 5. Mo - Fr 11 am - 6 pm. Former Zucker Synagogue built in 1880s.
Today a gallery showing well-known Polish artists such as Magdalena Abakanowicz, Tadeusz Kantor or Jerzy
Nowosielski.
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CHAPTER 6. KRAKÓW/SOUTH
• In Podgórze you can find pieces on modern art on the street: murals by Polish and foreign authors (including
BLU on ul. Józefińska) and sculptures: a seesaw dedicated to Polish absurdist writer Witold Gombrowicz (ul.
Józefińska as well) or AUSCHWITZWIELICZKA by Mirosław Bałka next to the passage below rail tracks.
Churches
• St. Joseph Church (Kościół św. Józefa). Built in 1905 - 09 in neogothic style and modeled after the St.
Mary´s Church.
• Most Holy Redeemers Church. Built in 1905 by Jan Sas Zubrzycki in neogothic and neoromanesque style.
Cemeteries
Jewish cemeteries in Podgórze were destroyed during the occupation and today it’s hard to find them. There are only
symbolic monuments in grass fields in the area of Plaszow camp.
6.3.2
Dębniki
Museums
• Manggha Centre of Japanese Art & Technology (Centrum Sztuki i Techniki Japońskiej Manggha), ul. M.
Konopnickiej 26. 10 am - 6 pm; Mondays closed. Houses the National Museum’s Japanese artifacts, consisting
mostly of the fabulous 6,500-item collection of local legend Feliks Jasieński (1861-1929) who adored Japan. It
is located across the river from Wawel castle in a very interesting contemporary architecture building by Arata
Isozaki. 15 zł, reduced 10; Tuesdays free.
Churches
Tyniec Abbey
6.4. DO
65
• The Benedictine Abbey in Tyniec (Opactwo Benedyktynów w Tyńcu), ul. Benedyktyńska 37. St. Peter’s and
St. Paul’s Church and Benedictine Abbey are situated at the bank of Vistula river. In 11th century it was one
of the most important scientific places in the first Polish Kingdom, the first chronicles of Poland were written
here about 1100. Built as a fortress, in the 15th century the church was rebuilt and later remodelled in the 17th
and 18th centuries. It’s buildings damaged during the Confederation of Bar in 1764 hostilities. The revival of
the Benedictine tradition at Tyniec occurred in the 20th century.
6.3.3
Łagiewniki
• Divine Mercy Sanctuary reason for religious pilgrimages to Kraków.
• John Paul II Sanctuary is located nearby Divine Mercy Sanctuary. You can find there an original tomb table
taken from his grave at Vatican. In the main altar, an ampoule containing the Pope’s blood is built in.
6.4 Do
6.4.1
Podgórze
• Kika Cinema, ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 18. A cinema and a cafe. Arthouse, European films, classics, showings for children.
6.4.2
Dębniki
Zakrzówek - one of the nicest recreational areas in Krakow. In summer lots of people go there to swim, have
barbecues etc. The legality of these actions is disputable and the owner of the area wants to prevent them and builds
fences.
6.5 Buy
If you really like going to shopping malls, you can visit Bonarka City Center mall located nearby Podgórze centre. To
get there, you should approach Rondo Matecznego (Mateczny Roundabout) and take any bus going via Kamieńskiego
Street. After two stops you will see a big building with a high chimney standing nearby. This chimney remains from
the Bonarka chemical factory, located on this area in twentieth century. When it is after dawn, you can notice that
the top of the chimney is illuminated with colorful lamps.
6.6 Eat
6.6.1
Podgórze
• Bar Południowy, Rynek Podgórski 11. 07:00-19:00, Sat, Sun 07:00-15:00. Support your local milk bar!
• Jadłodajnia Wczoraj i Dziś, plac Bohaterów Getta 10, ☎ +48 12 656 20 75. Good, inexpensive Polish meals.
• Makaroniarnia, ul. Brodzińskiego 3, ☎ +48 12 43 00 147. Breakfasts, pastas, pizza.
• ZaKładka, ul. Józefińska 2. French style bistro / restaurant. Interesting wine list.
6.7 Drink
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CHAPTER 6. KRAKÓW/SOUTH
6.7.1
Podgórze
• BAL (Bal na Zabłociu), ul. Ślusarska 9. Postindustrial space, big wooden table, children’s corner, papers,
books, breakfasts and beer.
• Café Rękawka, ul. Brodzińskiego 4b, ☎ +48 12 296 20 02. First café in the neighbourhood, very good coffee,
nice, sleepy atmosphere.
• Cava (Café & Wine), Nadwiślanska 1.
• Drukarnia, Nadwiślanska 1. Café with a nice street view on the ground floor; in the basement concerts/disco.
6.7.2
Dębniki
• Forum Przestrzenie, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 28 (Hotel Forum). 2013 hit. Bar located on the ground floor of
big, abandoned hotel right on the Vistula river bank. Outside 1000m2 grass field with lots of deck chairs and
great Wawel Castle view. Brunches, lunches, picnics, film screenings, discos. Beer 7 - 8 zł.
• Konfederacka 4, ul. Konfederacka 4, ☎ +48 12 266 00 90. Mon - Sun: 10:00 - 22:00. Café/winebar.
6.8 Sleep
6.8.1
Podgórze
• Backpackers Hostel Bursa Jagiellonska, ul. Śliska 14, ☎ +48 12 6561266, e-mail: [email protected].
Accommodation for tourist groups and individual tourists. 40 - 65 zł.
• Stairway Hostel, ul. Targowa 2, ☎ +48 12 296 10 06. 35 - 70 zł.
• Hostel Patria, ul. Limanowskiego 1, ☎ +48 12 656 22 60. 60 - 90 zł.
• Guliwer Hostel, ul. Kalwaryjska 42, ☎ +48 12 266 00 11. 60 zł.
• RK Hostel, ul. Krasickiego 24/14, ☎ +48 12 296 36 55. 50 - 100 zł.
Splurge
• Qubus Hotel Krakow, Ul. Nadwislanska 6. Four-star hotel located in the city centre, in a vicinity of a
historical district Kazimierz. The hotel offers interesting forms of activity and relaxing: Finnish sauna, jacuzzi,
steam bath and fitness centre with a swimming pool.
6.8.2
Dębniki
Splurge
• Park Inn Hotel Krakow, Ul. Monte Cassino 2, ☎ +48 12 375 5555.
• Hotel Poleski, ul.Sandomierska 6. Frontal view of Wawel Hill, a modernly fitted hotel with friendly and
helpful staff.
6.8.3
Further south
• Camping Krakowianka, ul. Żywiecka-Boczna 2, ☎ +48 122 681 135. It’s close to a shopping centre and a
tram line, so getting to the centre is easy. Person 40 zł, tent, car 10 zł, trailer 40 zł.
• Camping Korona, Gaj gm. Mogilany, ul.Myslenicka 32, ☎ +48 12 270 13 18. Not exactly in Kraków itself,
12 km to the south from the Kraków’s centre, city buses reach this location (not often though). Person 20 zł,
tent 10 - 14 zł, car 10 zł, van 20 zł.
6.9. CONNECT
67
• SSM Youth Hostel Na Grochowej, ul. Grochowa 21, e-mail: [email protected]. Far away from the centre
but cheap.
6.9 Connect
Chapter 7
Kraków/West
Kościuszko Mound
North-western part of Kraków consists of six districts, of which most interesting is Zwierzyniec. Other (Grzegórzki,
Prądnik Biały i Czerwony, Krowodrza, Bronowice) are mainly residential.
7.1 Get in
7.2 See
• Błonia Park. Big meadow located right next to the centre of Kraków. It was used as a grazing field by villagers
since 12th century. In 19th century swamps were drained and Błonia became suitable for large gatherings 68
7.2. SEE
69
Napoleon troops salute happened here, Masses celebrated by popes John Paul II and Benedict XVI and concerts
such as Selector Festival.
• Kościuszko Mound (Kopiec Kościuszki). The Mound was built by Polish people in 1820s to commemorate
a national hero - Tadeusz Kościuszko. In 1850s Austrian authorities built a Neogothic chapel and a citadel
around the Mound, it was used as a strategic lookout. Today there is a museum dedicated to Kościuszko’s life
and the Mound. Great views of the city from the top.
• Piłsudski Mound (Kopiec Piłsudskiego). Similar structure constructed in 1930s.
• Las Wolski Forest. Biggest green area in Kraków has several hiking and bike routes and interesting places to
see.
• Kraków Zoological Garden (Krakowski Ogród Zoologiczny). Most interesting specimen include two Indian
elephants, pygmy hippopotamuses and Przewalski horses. Tickets - normal 18 zł, discount 10 zł.
• Villa Decius Palace and Park Complex, ul. 28 Lipca 1943 17a. Renaissance residence from 16th century
inspired by those around Rome and Florence.
• Bronisław Chromy Sculpture Gallery. A gallery and a cafe located in Decius Park.
• Botanic Garden of Jagiellonian University, ul. Kopernika 27. April–September: 9AM-7PM (glasshouses
10AM-6PM, on Friday closed). Also a museum in the price of the ticket (open We, Fr, Sa). 7 zł, reduced 4.
7.2.1
Churches
Norbertines monastery on the Vistula bank
• Camaldolese Priory of Bielany was built by Walenty von Säbisch and Andrea Spezza and was founded by
Mikołaj Wolski and Sebastian Lubomirski in 1603 in early baroque style on the top of the Silver Mountain,
called then St. Stanislaw Hills. It has one of the most beautiful baroque facades in Europe. The chapels are
very rich in baroque art designed by Franciszek Placidi and Jan Falconi. There are also baroque paintings by
Tomasz Dolabella and Piotr Brygierski. It is not easy to get into the church. Male tourist are allowed to visit it
only on one day in the year. The church and monastery are still used by the Camaldolese monks, who are not
allowed to get outside, talk or see women.
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CHAPTER 7. KRAKÓW/WEST
• The Church of St Augustine and St John the Baptist and the Norbertines monastery was founded in
1162 by Jaksa Gryfita. The original buildings were destroyed during the first Tatar invasion in 1241. Soon a
new Gothic church was built, of which a section of the walls and the Romanesque portal survived. The complex
was rebuilt in 1596 and the interior was renewed in 1777 by Sebastian Sierakowski, who created a classicist
composition.
• The Church of St Salvator on Bronisława Hill was built in the 10th century in Pre-Romanesque style. In
1148 it got a new Romanesque shape. The church was partly rebuilt in early baroque style and the tower was
added. The church is surrounded by the former parish cemetery of Zwierzyniec.
• Salvator Cemetery is next to Washington ave. on the way to Kościuszko Mound. Well-known science-fiction
author Stanisław Lem is buried here among other prominent Polish people.
• Rakowicki Cemetery, north from the Main Train Station. One of the most important Polish cemeteries.
Artists, writers and politicians such as Helena Modrzejewska, Jan Matejko and Wisława Szymborska are buried
here.
7.2.2
Museums
National Museum in Kraków - Main Building
• National Museum in Krakow - Main Building (Muzeum Narodowe w Krakowie - Gmach Główny), al.
3 Maja 1, ☎ +48 12 29 55 500, fax: +48 12 29 55 555. 10.00-18.00; Mondays closed. Three permanent
exhibitions on three floors, from top: 20th-Century Polish Art, Gallery of Decorative Art, Arms and Uniforms
in Poland, the first most worth seeing. On ground floor city’s best temporary art exhibitions. Permanent
exhibitions - 10 zł, reduced 5, Sundays free.
• Museum of History of Photography (Muzeum Historii Fotografii), ul. Józefitów 16. Mo, Tu closed. Permanent exhibition “From the history of photography” shows works of Polish photographers since 1850s till WW2.
7.3. DO
71
Several temporary exhibitions a year on both documentary and art photography. Unfortunately underfinanced.
8 zł, reduced 5.
• The Home Army Museum (Muzeum Armii Krajowej), ul. Wita Stwosza 12 (Behind main train station). 11.00
- 18.00, Mondays closed. Museum dedicated to Polish underground movement (during and after WW2) and
its armed forces. 13/7 zł, Sundays free.
7.3 Do
7.3.1
Theatres
• STU Scene, al. Krasińskiego 16-18.
• KTO Theatre, ul. Gzymsików 8.
• Krakow Opera (Opera Krakowska), ul. Lubicz 48, ☎ +48 12 296 61 00.
7.3.2
Cinemas
• Kijów, al. Krasińskiego 34. For a long time (until multiplexes arrived) the biggest cinema in Krakow, interesting modernist building from 60s. Hits, old Polish movies, concerts.
• Mikro, ul. Lea 5. European, art cinema, retrospectives.
• Multikino, ul. Dobrego Pasterza 128. Far from centre. Multiplex.
• Waterpark (Park Wodny), ul. Dobrego Pasterza 126. 8:00-22:00. 14 - 24 zł/h.
7.4 Buy
Several larger and smaller shopping malls are located in the area. Big cluster of shops including IKEA and Galeria
Bronowice lies next to the northern ringroad.
7.5 Eat
• China Palace (Chiński Pałac), ul. Mackiewicza 14B. 12:00-22:00. Chinese cuisine. Beware - large portions.
7.6 Drink
7.7 Sleep
7.7.1
Budget
• Smok Campsite, ul. Kamedulska 18, ☎ +48 12 429 83 00. Open whole year. Around 4 km from the centre.
Rooms are also available. Person - 25 zł, tent - 10 zł, campervan - 20 zł.
• Elephant on the Moon, ul. Biale Wzgorze 8, ☎ +48 695 949 604. Quite different than usual Krakow hostel,
located outside centre, in a peaceful neighborhood, has a flower garden and eco-friendly ideas. Got some prizes
for good atmosphere. 45 - 90 zł.
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CHAPTER 7. KRAKÓW/WEST
• Clepardia campsite, ul. Pachońskiego 28 A, ☎ +48 12 415 96 72. Open 15th April - 15th October. Bungalow
rental, free WiFi, swimming pool maybe. Good public transport connection to the centre, shops, restaurants
and a park in the vicinity. person 20 −24 zł, tent 10 zł, campervan 20 zł bungalows from 100 zł. + tourist tax
of zł 1.60/night/person.
• Oleandry Youth Hostel, ul. Oleandry 4, e-mail: [email protected]. Discounts for IYHF card owners.
Dorm beds from 30 zł, linen 7,5.
• Hostel Premium, ul. Pomorska 2, ☎ +48 12 292 22 11, e-mail: [email protected]. Rooms for
1-4 and dorms for up to 8 people. All with ensuite facilities, all with TV, SAT, and internet connection (cable
or wi-fi). 30 - 160 zł.
• Student Hotele. Chain of college dormitories that open up available rooms both during the school year and
in the summer (in summer it’s cheaper!) Prices vary and so does quality. Try Hotel Żaczek first for it’s the
closest one to the Old Town, Żaczek has singles, doubles, triples, and quads available with and without baths.
7.7.2
Mid-range
There are a lot of hotels located next to the northern part of Kraków ring road.
• Hotel Florian, Ul.Czerwonego Prądnika 19, ☎ +48 12 413 62 62, +48 12 413 37 37. Three star hotel.
• Hotel Twierdza, ul. Do Fortu 8, Zielonki (northern outskirts, 6 km from the centre), e-mail: [email protected].
Three star hotel in the former 19th century Austrian fort (part of Festung Krakau). Additional attractions:
paintball, quads etc. Double 225 zł.
• Witek Hotel & Conference Centre, ☎ +48 66 23 500, e-mail: [email protected]. You can find
this hotel on the outskirts of the city, in the picturesque surroundings of the Krakow-Czestochowa Jurassic
Upland. That provides comfort and enjoyable atmosphere for all guests : individual and business companies,
as well as traveling groups. Hotel is only 6 km away from airport and 8 km from the Old Town.
7.7.3
Splurge
• Novotel Krakow Centrum, ul. Tadeusza Kościuszki 5, ☎ +48 12 2992900, fax: +48 12 2992999, e-mail:
[email protected]. Four stars, leisure centre with swimming pool, sauna etc. 198 rooms.
7.8 Connect
Chapter 8
Wieliczka
Wieliczka is a town near Kraków in Lesser Poland Voivodeship in Poland.
8.1 Understand
It is known for its ancient salt mines , which are now a museum.
Wieliczka
8.2 Get in
It is easily accessible from Kraków by car, bus or train (the trip from Kraków should take around 30 minutes).
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CHAPTER 8. WIELICZKA
• MPK in Kraków buses 204, 244 (or 904 at night).
• Regional Bus Station in Kraków
• PKP
• Transfers Kraków
8.3 Get around
8.4 See
• Wieliczka salt mine, ul. Daniłowicza 10, ☎ +48 12 278 73 75, fax: +48 12 278 73 80, e-mail: [email protected].
April - October: 7:30AM-7:30PM, November - March: 8AM-5PM. A UNESCO World Heritage site. Visitors are not allowed to visit the salt mine alone, and must be with a tour guide. Individuals will only have to
wait until a sizable group is put together (often around 35 persons) before they will be taken on a tour. English language tours are provided at the following times: June: 9AM, 10AM, 11:30AM, 12:30PM, 1:45PM,
3PM, 4PM, 5PM. July, August: 8:30AM-6PM (every half an hour). September: 9AM, 10AM, 11:30AM,
12:30PM, 1:45PM, 3PM, 4PM, 5PM. October - May: 10AM, 11AM, 11:30AM, 12:30PM, 1:45PM, 3PM,
4PM, 5PM. If you decide to take pictures, consider paying the fee and bringing a tripod due to the darkness
of the mine. Admission: Single person with a non-Polish language guide: zł 54-68. An additional fee of zł 10
is required for anyone who takes photographs (not enforced except half-heartedly at the cathedral).
• Saltworks Museum. ul. Zamkowa 8. Museum is in the castle.
• Wooden churches
8.5 Do
8.6 Buy
There are many shops and souvenir stands, many of which sell bags of salt from the mine.
8.7 Eat
There are several places to eat and drink around the salt mine and in the town centre.
8.8 Drink
8.9 Sleep
8.9.1
Budget
• Pensjonat ULMA, ul. Reformacka 77, ☎ +48 12 288 12 17, e-mail: [email protected]. Price per person
(room with TV and no restroom/ room with TV and restroom): Single person: zł 45/60, Two persons: zł 35/45,
Three or four persons: zł 30/40.
• Motel Górsko, ul. Górsko 6, ☎ +48 12 278-39-27, fax: +48 (0)12 278-39-27, e-mail: [email protected].
Price per rooms (Single and double rooms prices indicate rooms with a shared bathroom or private restroom,
respectively): Single: zł 40/90, Double: zł 70/110, Triple: zł 140, Four person room: zł 170.
8.10. GO NEXT
8.9.2
75
Mid-range
• Hotel Regis, ul. Czarnochowska 15 A, ☎ +48 12 289-52-50, fax: +48 12 278-26-90. zł 110 - 180.
• Na Wierzynka, ul. Wierzynka 9, ☎ +48 12 278 36 14, fax: +48-12 278 36 14, e-mail: [email protected].
Motel style accommodations with a sauna. Price per room: 1 person: zł 100, 2 person room: zł 120, 3 person
room: zł 160, 4 person room: zł 180.
8.9.3
Splurge
• Hotel Salin, ul. Kościuszki 5, ☎ +48 12 288 24 78, fax: +48 12 288 24 78, e-mail: [email protected].
zł 140 - zł 360.
• Folwark Zalesie, ul. Grajów 150 (About 10 km outside Wieliczka), ☎ +48 12 271 2893, fax: +48 12 271 3714,
e-mail: [email protected].
• Hotel Galicja, ul. Dembowskiego 20, ☎ +48 12 288-24-78, e-mail: [email protected]. €54 - €92.
8.10 Go next
Chapter 9
Auschwitz-Birkenau
Arbeit macht frei sign on the entrance to Auschwitz-Birkenau
Auschwitz-Birkenau is the generic name given to the cluster of concentration, labour and extermination camps
established by the Nazis during the Second World War and located near the towns of Oświęcim and Brzezinka in
southern Poland, some 60 km from Kraków. The camps have become a place of pilgrimage for survivors, their
families and all who wish to travel to remember the Holocaust.
9.1 Understand
Although not the only (or, indeed, the first) German concentration and extermination camp, Auschwitz-Birkenau has
become a widespread symbol of terror, genocide and the Holocaust in the global consciousness.
A concentration camp was established by the Nazis in the suburbs of the Polish cities of Oświęcim and Brzezinka
which - like the rest of Poland - was occupied by the Germans from the beginning of the Second World War (1939)
till it was liberated in 1945 near the war’s end. The name of the city of Oświęcim was changed ('germanized') to
Auschwitz, as well as the name of Brzezinka - Birkenau; which became the name of the camp as well.
76
9.2. GET IN
77
The camp was continually expanded over the next 5 years and ultimately consisted of 3 main parts: Auschwitz I,
Auschwitz II-Birkenau, and Auschwitz III-Monowitz. Auschwitz-Birkenau also had over 40 sub-camps in the neighboring cities and in the surrounding area. Initially, only Poles and Jews were imprisoned, enslaved and murdered in the
camp. Subsequently, Soviet prisoners of war ('POWs’), Romani/Sinti (Gypsies), and prisoners of other nationalities
and minorities were also incarcerated, enslaved and murdered there.
From 1942 onwards, the camp became the site of one of the greatest mass murders in the history of humanity,
committed against the European Jews as part of Hitler’s plan for the complete destruction of that people ('the Final
Solution'). The vast majority of the Jewish men, women and children deported from their homes all over occupied
Europe to Auschwitz-Birkenau were sent immediately to their deaths in the Birkenau gas chambers upon arrival,
usually trained in in overcrowded cattle wagons. Their bodies were afterwards cremated in industrial furnaces in the
crematoria.
At the end of the war, in an effort to remove the traces of the crimes they had committed, the SS began dismantling
and razing the gas chambers, crematoria, and other buildings, as well as burning documents. Prisoners capable of
marching were evacuated into the depths of the German Reich. Those who remained behind in the camp and survived
long enough were liberated by Red Army soldiers on 27 January 1945.
A 2 July 1947 Act of the post-war Polish Parliament established the Auschwitz-Birkenau State Museum on the
grounds of the two extant parts of the camp, Auschwitz I and Auschwitz II-Birkenau.
The site was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1979.
9.2 Get in
Barracks in Auschwitz II-Birkenau
9.2.1
By bus
There are quite frequent and inexpensive buses (11 złoty each way) to and from the main bus station in Kraków and
minibuses (8 złoty each way) that depart from the basement level of the main bus station. The bus takes about one
and a half hours; it is usually busy and stops locally along the way.
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CHAPTER 9. AUSCHWITZ-BIRKENAU
9.2.2
By car
Driving from Kraków takes about one hour and you have to leave the A4 motorway at the Oświęcim/Balin exit. There
is a big parking lot in Auschwitz I that costs 8 złoty for the whole day. 200 metres from Auschwitz II there is another
parking lot that costs 2 złoty per hour, but also free space for around 40 cars near the main door.
9.2.3
By train
The train station of Oświęcim is about 2 km from the museum and there are public town buses connecting them
(PLN2,70). There are several local trains each day, both from Kraków and from Katowice, about each 1 1/2-2 hours.
The trip to or from Kraków central station takes a leisurely 2 hours, as the train goes slow and stops frequently, and
costs PLN9,50.
9.2.4
Organized tours
Several companies provide tours from Kraków for around 100 złoty. They advertise heavily so you'll have no problem
finding one. These tours involve a minibus pick-up from anywhere in Kraków, and a few hours’ guided tour.
9.2.5
Entrance
Entrance is free, without a ticket, though donations are encouraged. Be aware that because of the large numbers of
visitors entry to the Auschwitz-I site is exclusively on a guided group basis from 10AM to 3PM during the period
from April 1 to October 31.
You can visit the site on your own (highly recommended because you can go at your own pace, see what you want
to see and have a much more meaningful experience) if you arrive before 10AM. Another option is to visit the
Auschwitz II-Birkenau site first and then return after 3PM to the first camp to avoid having to use the tour. The
Auschwitz II-Birkenau site is open for visitors without the guide during the opening hours of the Memorial.
9.2.6
Opening hours
The museum is open all year long, seven days a week, except January 1, December 25, and Easter Sunday. The
museum is open during the following hours:
• 8AM–3PM December through February
• 8AM–4PM March, November
• 8AM–5PM April, October
• 8AM–6PM May, September
• 8AM–7PM June, July, August
9.3 Get around
The Auschwitz Memorial and Museum is easily navigated on foot. In order to acquire a proper sense of the place it
is essential to visit both parts of the camp.
Tours provided by the museum in various languages cost 40 złoty (discounted price for students up to 24 years of age
is 30 złoty) and are recommended if you want a deeper understanding of the site, but they are unfortunately somewhat
rushed, and you can get a pretty good feel by buying a guidebook and map (small simple guide costs 5 złoty) and
wandering around on your own.
Each exhibit is described in Polish with other language translations. The scope of the evil and terror that occurred
here is almost unimaginable and a guide can help to put in context what a room full of human hair or what a thousand
pairs of infant shoes means. They'll also tell you about former prisoners who have returned to see the museum.
9.4. SEE
79
There are toilets at the Auschwitz-I site which cost 1 złoty to use. At Auschwitz II-Birkenau there are free toilets at
the back of the camp.
9.3.1
Between camps
• In the summer months there is a free shuttle bus between Auschwitz and Birkenau that goes every half hour
(from Auschwitz to Birkenau it leaves on the hour at half hourly intervals and going the opposite way it is 15
minutes of the hour at half hourly intervals).
• You can just walk the two miles between the camps (although it isn't a very nice walk as it is along the roads).
• A taxi between the sites will cost about 15 złoty.
9.4 See
• Auschwitz I was the first camp to be used (therefore called Stammlager). It consists of old Polish military
barracks. Inside some of them you will find information material, boards, photos and personal belongings to
illustrate the life and cruelties of this camp. The only remaining gas chamber is here but note that, as indicated
in the chamber, it was reconstructed to its wartime layout after the war.
Auschwitz-Birkenau concentration camp
• Main Building The entrance to Auschwitz I has a museum with a theater where a 15 minute film is shown,
shot by Ukrainian troops the day after the camp was liberated. It’s too graphic for children (if indeed you bring
them to Auschwitz-Birkenau at all), and costs 3.5 zł (included in the price of a guided tour). Showings between
11 and 5 (in English at the hour and polish at the half hour). Highly recommended, but disturbing. Bookstores
and bathrooms are here. Consider buying a 5 zł guidebook or 5 zł map.
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CHAPTER 9. AUSCHWITZ-BIRKENAU
Crematorium at Auschwitz
• Auschwitz-Birkenau was the second camp and is around 3km from Auschwitz I. You can still see the entrance
gate, the railway track and ramp and many old barracks. The site is huge. You can also see the buildings
where incoming prisoners were shaved and given their “new” clothing, the ruins of the four crematoria and
gas chamber complexes, ponds where the ashes of thousands of people were dumped without ceremony, and
a memorial site. Note that walking through the whole site may take several hours. Some visitors find the
experience harrowing. If visiting during cooler months, be aware that in the evening, the temperature drops
very quickly across such a flat open space.
9.5 Do
• Participate in one of the guided tours of the site
• Visit on your own a day or two after a guided tour. A guided tour may be a bit rushed to fully experience the
emotions of the place.
9.5.1
Events
• March of the Living — Silent march of thousands of people from around the world from Auschwitz to Birkenau
each year on Holocaust Memorial Day (Yom HaShoah, after Passover).
• Anniversary of Liberation of Auschwitz. January 27 (International Holocaust Remembrance Day). Official
commemoration with Auschwitz survivors and Israeli, Polish and other officials.
9.6 Eat
There’s a basic cafe and cafeteria in the main visitors’ centre of Auschwitz I and a coffee machine in the bookshop at
Birkenau. More options are in a commercial complex across the street from Auschwitz I, although the quality of one
(the Art Hamburger) is rather poor, but a cheap and quick eat. There are hot dog stalls and similar outlets outside the
main museum at the end of the bus/car park, with food and drink combinations costing 10-12 .
9.7. SLEEP
81
9.7 Sleep
You cannot sleep at the camps. The closest accommodation options are in Oświęcim.
9.8 Respect
Flowers of commemoration on the rail track leading to the camp
Please remember that you are essentially visiting a mass grave site, as well as a site that has an almost incalculable
meaning to a significant portion of the world’s population. There are still many men and women alive who survived
their time here, and many more who had loved ones who were murdered or worked to death there, Jews and non-Jews
alike. Please treat the site with the dignity, solemnity and respect it deserves. Do not make jokes about the Holocaust
or Nazis. Do not deface the site by marking or scratching graffiti into structures. Do not take anything from the camp
area with you “as a souvenir”, and do not make Nazi salutes, even jokingly — these are considered offences under
Polish law, and if you commit them, you will be placed before the court and could be subjected to a prison sentence
of up to two years for propagating fascism. Pictures are permitted in outdoor areas, but remember this is a memorial
rather than a tourist attraction, and there will undoubtedly be visitors who have a personal connection with the camps,
so be discreet with cameras.
82
CHAPTER 9. AUSCHWITZ-BIRKENAU
9.9 Text and image sources, contributors, and licenses
9.9.1
Text
• Lesser Poland Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Ma%C5%82opolskie?oldid=2848752 Contributors: Wrh2, Dguillaume, Alan ffm,
Ypsilon, LtPowers, Pashley, Globe-trotter, ClausHansen, Stefan2bot, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Jnich99, (WT-en) Jjtk, (WT-en)
, (WT-en) Sirtrebuchet, (WT-en) JanSlupski, (WT-en) Doihaveto-wikitravel, (WT-en) Ejmarkow, Eco84, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, EvanProdromou, CarsracBot, Sapphire, Texugo, Chris1515, Jjtkk, Traveler100bot, PrinceGloria, SteveRBot, Wrh2Bot,
Matroc, Addbot and Anonymous: 13
• Kraków Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Krak%C3%B3w?oldid=2909531 Contributors: Cjensen~enwikivoyage, Wrh2, Sertmann,
Jpatokal, Syced, Peterfitzgerald, Jc8136, Pbsouthwood, Dguillaume, Sumone10154, Alan ffm, Jjtk~enwikivoyage, LtPowers, Vidimian,
Inas, Globe-trotter, Jonboy, Ravikiran r, Cacahuate, Saqib, Romaine, ClausHansen, Stefan2bot, (WT-en) Huttite, (WT-en) Morph,
(WT-en) Tatatabot, (WT-en) Maj, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Bill Ellett, (WT-en) Episteme, (WT-en) Jnich99, (WT-en) Cardboardbird, (WT-en) Jjtk, (WT-en) W66LinkBot, (WT-en) Nzpcmad, (WT-en) WindHorse, (WT-en) PierreAbbat, (WT-en) DanielC,
(WT-en) Fastestdogever, (WT-en)
, (WT-en) Nrms, (WT-en) Mnd, (WT-en) Zepppep, (WT-en) Quirk, (WT-en) Woodstock, (WTen) Airin, (WT-en) Rmx, (WT-en) Ypsilon, (WT-en) Xania, (WT-en) Fluglotse2000, (WT-en) JanSlupski, (WT-en) Janki, (WT-en)
Matt.Cannella, (WT-en) Wojsyl, (WT-en) Madfan87, (WT-en) Wikitravel is Communism, (WT-en) Bumper, (WT-en) Alingelb, (WTen) Blorg, (WT-en) Blowski, (WT-en) Kaci, (WT-en) ThrowAwayTwo, (WT-en) Dsmccohen, (WT-en) MikeHobday, (WT-en) Paul007,
(WT-en) Freundesstern, (WT-en) Gilliam, (WT-en) Shalom Alechem, (WT-en) Halibutt, (WT-en) Hostel, (WT-en) I remember Black
Star North, (WT-en) Kbullett, (WT-en) Keym4k3r, (WT-en) Mrozik, (WT-en) Ptbennett1, (WT-en) S0568354, (WT-en) Ub, (WT-en)
FTMDave, (WT-en) Ashton.bridget, (WT-en) Stewartward, (WT-en) Krzysztof, (WT-en) Eureka, (WT-en) Techie, (WT-en) Jedrek,
(WT-en) Hubidubi, (WT-en) Tukan, (WT-en) GerritT, (WT-en) Famillyhostel, (WT-en) Julll, (WT-en) KFG, (WT-en) Interaktywny,
(WT-en) Robotkren, (WT-en) Polish Paul, (WT-en) Robwat, (WT-en) Alisgan, (WT-en) Gbl, (WT-en) Nfhostel, (WT-en) DaveSawyer,
(WT-en) Patcracow, (WT-en) Slowder27, (WT-en) Ago14, WereSpielChequers, Thehelpfulbot, Ymblanter, Eco84, Ikan Kekek, M Blissett, Literowka, LilHelpa, Marek69, Piotrus, EvanProdromou, Gorilla Jones, Tiimta, CarsracBot, Sapphire, Texugo, WOSlinker, Handrian, Jjtkk, Dowetz, Traveler100bot, Danapit, Корінь, PrinceGloria, SteveRBot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc, Addbot, 1Arena1hu, Pjamescowie,
Agnes86, Piotr Andrzejewicz and Anonymous: 411
• Kraków/East Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Krak%C3%B3w/East?oldid=2908765 Contributors: Cjensen~enwikivoyage, Wrh2,
Jpatokal, Peterfitzgerald, Pbsouthwood, Jjtk~enwikivoyage, Globe-trotter, Cacahuate, (WT-en) TVerBeek, (WT-en) Bill Ellett, (WT-en)
Jjtk, (WT-en) Shalom Alechem, (WT-en) Lajkonik, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, Sky Harbor, Bill-on-the-Hill, Texugo, Jjtkk, Dowetz,
Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc and Anonymous: 20
• Kraków/Kazimierz Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Krak%C3%B3w/Kazimierz?oldid=2906418 Contributors: Cjensen~enwikivoyage,
Wrh2, Jc8136, Jjtk~enwikivoyage, Stefan2bot, (WT-en) Bill Ellett, (WT-en) Jjtk, (WT-en) Fastestdogever, (WT-en)
, (WT-en)
The Yeti, (WT-en) Madfan87, (WT-en) Shalom Alechem, (WT-en) Mikerag, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, EvanProdromou,
CarsracBot, Sapphire, WOSlinker, Jjtkk, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Misiek2, Wrh2Bot, Matroc, Addbot, Pjamescowie and Anonymous:
18
• Kraków/Old Town Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Krak%C3%B3w/Old_Town?oldid=2908693 Contributors: Cjensen~enwikivoyage,
Wrh2, Pbsouthwood, Jjtk~enwikivoyage, Ypsilon, LtPowers, Vidimian, JamesA, Globe-trotter, ClausHansen, Stefan2bot, (WT-en) Tatatabot,
(WT-en) Maj, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Bill Ellett, (WT-en) Jjtk, (WT-en) Fastestdogever, (WT-en) Lorna45, (WT-en) Ypsilon,
(WT-en) Blorg, (WT-en) ThrowAwayTwo, (WT-en) Shalom Alechem, (WT-en) StevenSeagull, (WT-en) Robwat, (WT-en) Cudowny,
(WT-en) Trakais, (WT-en) Ziuta, (WT-en) Krakowrentals, (WT-en) Hellodeer, Eco84, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, Marek69, MarkJaroski, Sapphire, Texugo, WOSlinker, Adehertogh, Handrian, Jjtkk, Dowetz, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot, Wrh2Bot, Jtylek,
Matroc, Addbot, Pjamescowie and Anonymous: 54
• Kraków/South Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Krak%C3%B3w/South?oldid=2908794 Contributors: Jjtk~enwikivoyage, Ypsilon, Pashley, Globe-trotter, (WT-en) Bill Ellett, (WT-en) Jjtk, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, Yvwv, WOSlinker, ‫ויקיג'אנקי‬, Jjtkk, Dowetz,
Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc and Anonymous: 7
• Kraków/West Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Krak%C3%B3w/West?oldid=2908721 Contributors: Wrh2, Sumone10154, Jjtk~enwikivoyage,
Inas, Tsandell, Globe-trotter, (WT-en) Bill Ellett, (WT-en) Jjtk, (WT-en) DanielC, (WT-en) Shalom Alechem, Mey2008, The Anomebot2, Literowka, LilHelpa, Bill-on-the-Hill, Texugo, WOSlinker, Jjtkk, Dowetz, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, PrinceGloria, Wrh2Bot, Hobbitschuster and Anonymous: 2
• Wieliczka Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Wieliczka?oldid=2722307 Contributors: Wrh2, Jc8136, Dguillaume, Alan ffm, Ypsilon, LtPowers, Ravikiran r, Xltel, Saqib, ClausHansen, Stefan2bot, (WT-en) Tatatabot, (WT-en) Jnich99, (WT-en) Jjtk, (WT-en) Nzpcmad, (WT-en)
, (WT-en) Rein N., (WT-en) AVLann, (WT-en) Ae-a, (WT-en) Paul007, (WT-en) Martynaza, (WT-en) Shalom
Alechem, (WT-en) DaveSawyer, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, Marek69, JuliasTravels, Sumone’s bot, CarsracBot, Bill-on-the-Hill, Sapphire, Texugo, WOSlinker, Jjtkk, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Addbot and Anonymous: 16
• Auschwitz-Birkenau Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Auschwitz-Birkenau?oldid=2845682 Contributors: Cjensen~enwikivoyage,
Sertmann, Jpatokal, Peterfitzgerald, Jc8136, Alan ffm, Jjtk~enwikivoyage, Vidimian, Inas, Pashley, Globe-trotter, Saqib, Kulmalukko,
Stefan2bot, (WT-en) TVerBeek, (WT-en) Maj, (WT-en) DorganBot, (WT-en) Jjtk, (WT-en) InterLangBot, (WT-en) Fluglotse2000,
(WT-en) JanSlupski, (WT-en) Wojsyl, (WT-en) Madfan87, (WT-en) OliverBuchino, (WT-en) StuartEdwards, (WT-en) Bjackt, (WTen) I need a name, (WT-en) Plug, (WT-en) MikeHobday, (WT-en) VeryBlue, (WT-en) Paul007, (WT-en) Freundesstern, (WT-en)
Gilliam, (WT-en) Yeugene, (WT-en) Martynaza, (WT-en) Jckern, (WT-en) Kjdittrich, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, WilliamH,
Sumone’s bot, CarsracBot, Crochet.david.bot, Yvwv, Bill-on-the-Hill, Sapphire, Texugo, WOSlinker, Jjtkk, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot,
Will~enwikivoyage, SeanDS, Addbot, 1Arena1hu, Pablovp, Pjamescowie and Anonymous: 69
9.9.2
Images
• File:107Cracow.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/13/107Cracow.JPG License: Public domain Contributors: Own work Original artist: Rj1979
9.9. TEXT AND IMAGE SOURCES, CONTRIBUTORS, AND LICENSES
83
• File:2014_Tarnobrzeg,_kościół_Wniebowzięcia_NMP,_29.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/a3/2014_
Tarnobrzeg%2C_ko%C5%9Bci%C3%B3%C5%82_Wniebowzi%C4%99cia_NMP%2C_29.JPG License: CC BY-SA 3.0 pl Contributors: Own work Original artist: Jacek Halicki
• File:AlejaRóż-WidokOgólny-POL,_Kraków.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/75/AlejaR%C3%B3%
C5%BC-WidokOg%C3%B3lny-POL%2C_Krak%C3%B3w.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Mach240390
• File:Ambox_notice.png Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/c8/Ambox_notice.png License: Public domain
Contributors: Derived from Image:Information icon.svg Original artist: El T (original icon); Penubag (modified color) / David Levy
at English Wikipedia
• File:Arbeit_Mach_Frei_gate_Auschwitz_2012.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/86/Arbeit_Mach_Frei_
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track.jpg License: CC-BY-SA-3.0 Contributors: ? Original artist: ?
• File:Barracones_en_Auschwitz_II-Birkenau,_Polonia5.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/08/Barracones_
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• File:Centre_for_the_Documentation_of_the_Art_of_Tadeusz_Kantor_Cricoteka_(S),_2-4_Nadwislanska_street,_Podgórze,_Krakow,
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• File:Crematorium_at_Auschwitz_I_2012.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/fd/Crematorium_at_Auschwitz_
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• File:Galeria_Sztuki_Polskiej_XIX_wieku_w_Sukiennicach_-_sala_Siemiradzkiego.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/
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• File:GmachGłównyMuzeumNarodowego-Aleja3Maja1-POL,_Kraków.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/
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• File:Great_Mikveh,_6_Szeroka_street,Kazimierz,Krakow,Poland.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/
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• File:KZ_Auschwitz-Birkenau,_Bahngleise_der_Entladerampe,_Blumen_zum_Gedenken.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.
org/wikipedia/commons/6/6a/KZ_Auschwitz-Birkenau%2C_Bahngleise_der_Entladerampe%2C_Blumen_zum_Gedenken.jpg License:
CC BY-SA 3.0 at Contributors: Own work Original artist: Dnalor 01
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Benedyktyn%C3%B3w_w_Ty%C5%84cu_-_przemasban80.JPG License: CC BY-SA 3.0 pl Contributors: Own work Original artist:
Przemasban
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domain Contributors: Own work Original artist: Mixim
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JPG License: CC BY 3.0 Contributors: Permission is granted to copy, distribute and/or modify this document under the terms of the GNU
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Original artist: Tomasz Bienias
• File:KościółMatkiBożejKrólowejPolski(Arka)-UlicaObrońcówKrzyża-POL,_Kraków.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/
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Contributors: Own work Original artist: Diether
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• File:Krakow_Kazimierz_map.png Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/ae/Krakow_Kazimierz_map.png License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Jjtk and openstreetmap Original artist: Jjtk
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• File:Krakow_map.png Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/6e/Krakow_map.png License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: :Image:Krakow map.svg Original artist: Jjtk, OpenStreetMap
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Wikipedia
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• File:Sukiennice.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/a8/Sukiennice.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 pl Contributors: Own work Original artist: DESMS
• File:Sukiennice_and_St._Mary’{}s_Basilica_from_Church_as_seen_from_the_Town_Hall_Tower_(9159141840)_(2).jpg Source:
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Hall_Tower_%289159141840%29_%282%29.jpg License: CC BY 2.0 Contributors: Sukiennice and St. Mary’s Basilica from Church
as seen from the Town Hall Tower Original artist: Jorge Láscar from Australia
• File:Tank_IS-2_,os._Gorali,Nowa_Huta,Krakow,Poland.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/b1/Tank_
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Put Zetpe0202
• File:The_Lady_with_an_Ermine.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e1/The_Lady_with_an_Ermine.jpg
License: Public domain Contributors: Frank Zöllner (2000). Leonardo da Vinci, 1452-1519. Taschen. ISBN 38-22859-79-6 Original
artist: Leonardo da Vinci
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