June/July cover - SHE Canada Magazine
Transcription
June/July cover - SHE Canada Magazine
The Canadian Fragrance Awards And the winners are… Summertime Beauty picks That You Won’t Sweat Off EXCLUSIVE My Fashion Life with Tory Burch, Angela Missoni, & Manolo Blahnik Monica Dogra The Multidimensional Artist on Film, Music, Fashion & her Future TFI’S Press and Buyer’s Brunch at WMCFW JUNE/JULY 2014 $4.99 CAD | Dhs 18.08 AED | £3.28 INSIDE Osiyan Paris’ Distinctly Indo-French Aesthetic 2 SHE CANADA SHE CANADA 3 SHE Content IN EVERY ISSUE: EDITOR’S NOTE 6 SHE ONLINE 7 CONTRIBUTORS 8 LETTERS TO THE EDITOR 9 STYLE SCOOP 10 HE 58 ∙ Summer Looks for HIM ∙ SHEPRENEUR 48 ∙ Sonya Gill: Youzus Founder HEPRENEUR 52 ∙ MPP Jagmeet Singh SHE CARES 68 ∙ Lady Fatemah Trust ∙ Lend a Helping Hand To Those in Syria SHE DEBATES 66 ∙ Shadeism: Lack of Beauty in Skin Tones HEALTH/WELLNESS 72 ∙ Yoga 201 ON THE ROAD 50 ∙ Mauritius: Visit the Paradise Calendar BEAUTY 76 ∙ Introducing the New Faces of Maybelline ∙ Favourites for the Summertime QUOTE/UNQUOTE 94 ∙ Famous Quotes on Travel Editor/Publisher KAMRAN ZAIDI Executive Editor PRIYA KUMAR Associate Editor HARPREET BRAR National Advertising Director ADRIAN BHATTI Art Layout Coordinator JENNIFER RONG Travel Contributor ROBIN ESROCK Features Contributors LIZ GUBER, SARAH HORSFALL, FARIA JAFRI, ANNA BANDI Health & Wellness Contributor MARIA POSPELOVA FEATURES: Marketing Manager ERUM ZEHRA OSIYAN PARIS 14 ∙ Unrivaled jewelry by a brother-sister duo COVER STORY 30 ∙ Monica Dogra: Modern-Day Renaissance (Wo)man SPECIAL FEATURES 28 ∙Vogue Festival 2014 ∙ Sanjit Roy: Barefoot College ∙MAX Agency: Summer in the City ∙ In the cove: A Short Story SOUTH ASIA 40 ∙ Aamina Sheikh: The Unstoppable Artist ∙ The Secret to Anti-Aging Events 84 ∙ The Ninth Annual Canadian Fragrance Awards Subscription Inquiries: Please go to http://shemagazine.ca/subscribe To Contact SHE Canada: Write to SHE Canada, 1999 Avenue Rd., Toronto, ON, M5M 4A5 Or [email protected], Facebook: SHECanada Twitter: @SHECanada For Advertising Inquiries: Please contact Kamran Zaidi, 416 644 7788, 416 878 0SHE [email protected] SHE MAGAZINE CANADA IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF KAMRA ON PRODUCTIONS INC. COPYRIGHT © 2014 KAMRA ON PRODUCTIONS INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN PAKISTAN EUGENIA KIM Audra crystal headband $200 4 SHE CANADA SHE CANADA 5 Editor’s note W EDITOR S.M. Kamran Zaidi ith another summer officially upon us, it’s time to turn over a new (proverbial) leaf and start over. As this issue was going to print, Ontario Premiere Kathleen Wynne announced an upcoming June election. Perhaps by the time you’re reading this, the votes will have been tallied and Ontario may very well have a new mix of leaders. Summer is FINALLY here. It could never have been more welcome than Politics aside, in this June/July issue we bring you a new mix of our own. I’m pleased to introduce a young, burgeoning writer to our team of contributors—my nine-yearold daughter Shakirah Zaidi. In this issue she authored a touching story of struggle and triumph titled In the Cove. I would also like to introduce my daughters, Amna and Fatima Zaidi, who contributed to their younger sister’s story by designing the accompanying artwork. Inspired by the gripping and at times disturbing documentaries Blackfish and The Cove, In The Cove is a narrative about the plight of dolphins and whales through the eyes of a child. memories just need to be made can only mean one thing - the season is in 2014. There’s just something different about this time of year. The birds are chirping, and the thermometer is reading temperatures that we are not yet accustomed to due to our frigid winter. That iridescent feeling that here and SHE online is here to tell you all about it this summer! Also this month, we’re delighted to offer SHE readers an exclusive interview with Monica Dogra. Best known in Canada for her role in Dhobi Ghat, Dogra is now set to launch her first musical solo effort. Executive Editor Priya Kumar catches up with the multifaceted artist as she prepares to travel the world on tour. In this issue we also take an in-depth look at London’s famed Vogue Festival with an exclusive talk titled “My Fashion Life” featuring womenswear designer Tory Burch; Osiyan Paris’ French-Gujarati designers Alpa and Mehul Patel; and last but far from least, our Beauty and Home sections featuring the products you know and love from CoverGirl to Febreze. Finally, I wanted to touch on the plight of Syrians and shed light on what you can do in association with SHE to offer a helping hand to those in need. Now that winter is officially a distant memory, we urge you to send cash donations, clothing, blankets and other useful products to the people affected by the crisis in Syria. We will be collecting your donations all summer long. Please send your gently used goods to: SHE Cares, Suite 202, 1999 Avenue Road, Toronto, M5M 4A5 or e-mail [email protected]. Have a wonderful start to summer! And don’t forget to share your thoughts with us in Letters to the Editor about your take on this issue. 6 SHE CANADA SHE CANADA 7 Contributors “What is your favourite way to cool down in the summertime?” PRIYA KUMAR ROBIN ESROCK HARPREET BRAR This is a DIY gem for coffee lovers; put coffee (milk/sugar optional) into an ice tray and freeze overnight. The next morning you have homemade iced coffee that won’t water down. River tubing. Nothing beats relaxing on a rubber tube, feet in the water, floating with the current on a hot summer day. Wearing colours that reflect the sun’s light usually help, which is why I’m glad metallics are in this season. Executive Editor Travel Contributor Associate Editor letters to the Editor I loved your reviews on springtime spas. I made sure that I made a note of each one that I plan to go to since it’s always difficult finding a good spa to rely on, thanks! - Angela, Toronto I was happy to see a couple of features on designers such as John and Simone Rocha. I hope to see more of these in the future! - Lindsey, Pickering I always enjoy your Quotes section, it’s one of the things I look forward to most when I pick up your magazine. Your April/May issue probably had some of the most inspiring ones yet. - Sheena, Brantford I also read “Love in Chelsea”, and was thrilled when I saw that SHE reviewed it. I was even more thrilled that we shared the same views on it. - Connie, North York The Health & Wellness piece was very motivating and inspired me to work out. But I hope there are some workout routine how-tos in your future issues. - Theresa, Mississauga When I saw that Merle Oberon was on your cover, I had to pick it up. This was one of my most interesting reads to date. - Megan, Brampton I appreciate that SHE covers tragic stories and real-life events such as the Fehmina Chaudhry along with the lighter topics. It always makes the magazine a captivating read and I’m looking forward to your next topic focusing on real-life issues. - Sandy, Toronto The April/May issue of SHE really nailed it with their “Brown Girl problems”. Let’s just say it got me through a similar situation. I really appreciate how direct the advice is. - Farwa, Toronto SARAH HORSFALL SHAKIRAH ZAIDI During summer, my favorite place is to be is sitting on a boat while I read my book. When I get too hot, I simply jump into the lake to cool off. My favourite way to cool down in the summer is by going swimming and eating ice cream. Features Contributor 8 SHE CANADA Features Contributor FARIA JAFRI Features Contributor Since childhood, I have discovered that the best sanctuary from the summer heat is in the simple pleasure of a cherry freeze. APRIL/ MAY ISSUE SHE CANADA 9 1 3 1 2 2 3 4 Oscar de la Renta Connect the dots Does the polka dot ever go out of style? This perennial favourite popped up all over the runways and made an appearance on clutches, sunglasses and detached collars. Dot your summer wardrobe with a fresh take on a classic pattern. 5 Versace 4 6 plastic Surgery Designers in every major fashion capital played with PVC this season. From adorable capelets at Burberry to cheeky buttondowns at Charlotte Ronson, this is a look best enjoyed with a heavy dose of confidence. 1 1 8 Polka dot jacket $138 ARMANI JEANS Large red PVC bag $182 2 2 TOPSHOP Spot collar playsuit $96 CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN Patent leather and PVC flats $730 3 3 TOPSHOP Polka dot crop jacket $116 SIMONE ROCHA Leopard PVC skirt $770 4 4 ELIZABETH & JAMES Convertible Clutch $368 GIVENCHY Chain ring $440 5 5 SAINT LAURENT Silk bow tie $295 STUART WEITZMAN Gelly sandal $270 6 6 NSF Drawstring sweatpants $195 CHRISTIAN DIOR Perspex cuff Price on request 7 7 LE SPECS Acetate sunglasses $90rts $335A ROCHAS Metallic crocodile-effect leather tote $1360shorts $335 7 Charlotte Ronson Burberry 7 6 5 8 Burberry Prorsum 10 SHE CANADA Christian Dior SHE CANADA 11 2 1 1 3 2 3 Caffe Swimwear 4 sneak a peak With Isabel Marant herself declaring the obsolecense of the platform sneaker, we turn to slipons and low-tops this summer. Acne has fun with a metallic version while Miu Miu takes a bedazzled approach. 5 Marc Jacobs 12 SHE CANADA 6 Life’s a 5 Chanel 4 beach 7 1 SUPERGA Animal print giraffe $100 2 ROCCO P Metallic Wingtip Brogue Sneakers $445 3 BOTTEGA VENETA Trèfle Intrecciato slip on sneakers $560 4 MIU MIU Crystal cap toe sneaker $698 5 ACNE STUDIOS Metallic leather low top sneaker $420 6 GIVENCHY Rose print sneakers $570 6 A far cry from predictable, florals take on a lush, botanical look this summer. Pair with woven accessories to channel South Beach, even if you’re stuck in the concrete jungle. 1 MOTHER OF PEARL Lagan banana espadrilles $385 2 MANGO Tropical print dress $64.85 3 MSGM Cutout back bouclé mini dress $555 4 DOLCE & GABBANA Cotton blend bustier $845 5 ASOS Tropical print retro sunglasses $21.10 6 DOLCE & GABBANA Floral print reversible bikini $665 7 SOPHIE ANDERSON Liliana woven cotton clutch $305 8 CARVEN Printed cotton blend crepe skirt $530 8 Just Cavalli SHE CANADA 13 osiyan paris where east meets French By Priya Kumar What materials do you favour in your designs and why? A few issues ago we featured Alpa Rama, founder and blogger-in-chief of the wildly successful “A Parisian in America”. Born in Paris, currently residing in the States, Rama has created an online portal that oozes chic without forsaking her Eastern heritage. Rama’s family immigrated to Paris in the late 1980s from Gujarat, India offering Rama and her siblings a “best-of-bothworlds” upbringing. Since we last sat down with Rama, her other venture Osiyan Paris has taken off in a huge way. Named after a village in Rajastan known for its handicrafts, Osiyan is a partnership between Rama and her brother Mehul. Offering unique designs using only the highest quality materials, Osiyan Paris’ aim is to offer a chic product at a reasonable price. If their word isn’t enough, the jewellery label also boasts being a product of France. Osiyan is truly a staple every jewellery box craves. I recently had the chance to discuss the label with the brother-sister duo and find out what inspires them. For our products, we favor natural stone and Swarovski Elements pearls. We favour natural products so that there is sense of natural energy embedded into the product and Swarovski Elements because it offered materials that are in line with our brand philosophy in terms of quality. Tell me a bit about “The Golden Buddha” bracelet and why it’s considered your signature. Tell me a bit about the brand ethos of Osiyan. The ethos of the Osiyan Paris is one that exhibits a sense of worldly exploration, and combines that with a personality that is chic, high quality, and very much luxury. Being Gujarati by heritage, what was growing up in Paris like? How has it shaped who you are today and the design process? It was an overall great experience to grow up in France with Indian origins. It was kind of having a dual life, being Indian in the house and French outside of it. Our parents believed in exposing us to Indian culture and religion but they never imposed it, which was great so we could pick the best from both cultures. I definitely picked up spirituality and family values from the Indian side, and an attention to detail, fashion sense, and various cultural elements from France. What does the word Osiyan mean and how does it manifest itself in your label? Our first product, the Golden Buddha, was inspired by India, so we looked at the map of India, and found Osiyan, a village in the state of Rajasthan in India. My brother and I both connected with the name so decided that Osiyan will be the brand. We wanted France to also be an integral part of the name so we added the subscript ‘Paris’. Even though Osiyan was inspired by India, its name sounds universal and boundless. It also doesn’t have connotation to a specific product because we envision Osiyan to be a brand that represents various products of the ethos I mentioned above. 14 SHE CANADA Golden Buddha was our first creation; we put a lot of passion and heart into it. It really defines who we are as a brand—the Asian style with a touch of classic luxury, similar to our lives as Indians in France. How do you choose your color palate for your designs? We get inspired from life overall. For example when we travel, we love looking outside of a plane’s window and observe; any color that we get attracted to we take a picture and then try to find the closest beads that will remind us of those colours and palettes. Sometimes it’s an emotion we are after. We feel a certain way in some places, and although the feeling isn’t visible we try to incorporate it in the bracelet through design and color. Osiyan Paris is available on their website www.osiyanparis.com; keep an eye out for their legendary promotions. If you’re located in the United States, enquire about a promo code for “Free Shipping”! INDUSTRY HEAVYWEIGHTS By Sarah Horsfall JOE FRESH RUDSAK Joseph Mimram, creative director of the Joe Fresh brand, whose sharp eye and attention to detail has enabled him to always be on the forefront of what’s next. From product design to marketing, Mimram is involved in every stage of the Joe Fresh creative process. Like his attention to detail in design, Mimram’s business perspective on retail has led Joe Fresh to become one of the top brands in Canada. The brand is committed to offering well-designed looks for women, men, and children stylish that are well priced. Known for its quality, craftsmanship, and international instinct, Rudsak is based in Montreal and has become one of Canada’s leading fashion brands. The brand’s founder and creative leader, Evik Asatoorian, has always been inspired by James Dean’s rebellious allure and Audrey Hepburn’s pristine elegance. The FW14 collection simply vibrates sexy, chic attitude. A number of female ensembles consisted of leather mini skirts that were paired with knee-high boots and graphic stockings. The balance of soft and hard materials articulated a type of femininity that is interlaced with edgy attitude. For both men and women, there were a number of different length jackets that were cut in different silhouettes. Additionally, accessorized with fur linings, gloves, and leather bags, each ensemble will bring a sizzling element to the cold season. All in all, the collection captivates Dean’s rebellious nature and Hepburn’s elegance. From the Canadian Rockies to the Atlantic Coast, this season’s collection draws inspiration from the Canadian landscape. There are the obvious sweater pieces with graphic designs of a mountain or fox. The more subtle looks however, include an ensemble where the textile reminds you of the face of a rocky hillside. At the opposite end of the Canadian landscape finds a chiffon dress with a blue and brown textile that references the rocky coastline. The collection provides a mixed array of ensembles that can be worn for the warmer fall days to the cold winter nights. The FW14 collection truly speaks to Canadian lifestyle and design. PINK TARTAN Kimberly Newport-Mimram is the president and head designer of Pink Tartan, the women’s wear line that she co-founded in Toronto in 2002. The New York Pink Tartan showroom opened in 2004, and the line is now carried at Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdale’s, Holt Renfrew, and The Bay, as well as at other specialty stores across North America, Dubai, and Seoul. Additionally, Newport-Mimram has designed uniforms for Holt Renfrew, Porter Airlines, 60 Thompson in New York City, and Hollywood’s Roosevelt Hotel. Newport-Mimram designs according to her style philosophy “simplicity is the secret to elegance” and her lifelong mantra “execution is key”. This year’s collection was heavy on textural fabrics like wool and cashmere. With the ensembles being paired with oversized accessories, bundling up never looked so chic. The collection maintained a nice balance of soft pieces like Newport-Mimram’s fun flirty skirts and heavy pieces like the motorcycle jackets. 16 SHE CANADA MACKAGE Long time friends, Eran Elfassy and Elisa Dahan, launched Mackage in 2009 in Montreal. Upon graduating from LaSalle College (Montreal), the pair launched their label that eventually became one of the most prestigious outerwear brands in North America. The duo is known for creating collections that balance hard and soft elements together. Their FW14 collection consisted of a mixed array of fuchsia wool, leather, grey camo, quilted leather, fur, and forest green and navy blue tartan. Mackage were extremely successful in pairing different textiles. For instance, an ensemble involving a black leather jacket, black fur skirt, and green leather bag brings a fresh look to the fall/winter season. SHE CANADA 17 NEW FACES By Sarah Horsfall BRIT WACHER Brit Wacher debuted her collection on day five of World MasterCard Fashion Week. Wacher was raised and educated out West. Before establishing her label in Montreal last year, she spent a few years in Europe, Asia, and Canada gaining experience in the fashion industry. Some of her experience involved working for Asian art and fashion publications, and refining her skills with the guidance of Dutch fashion designer Pauline Van Dongen. Claudette by Claudette Floyd and Joseph Helmer This year, Claudette Floyd and Joseph Helmer produced a joint collection for the runway. Floyd was born in Jamaica and grew up watching her mother create beautiful dresses. Her label, Rush Couture, is currently based in Montreal. Her label is characterized by her structure tailoring, flowing lines, magnificent textures, and flattering silhouettes. She modernizes vintage silhouettes in order to create casual chic. Based on the concept of duality, her designs were a balanced expression of past reality and futuristic fantasy. She contrasted traditional silhouettes, like the Victorian inspired high neck collar and accentuated shoulders, with subtle obscurities that pushed the garments into the future. Although her pieces were not overtly feminine, the combination of her tailored craftsmanship and flowing draped elements certainly spoke to the female form. A favorite piece was the modernized black cape. The asymmetrical and orbital garment was paired with a black pencil skirt, and projected the image of a modern power woman. HILARY MACMILLON Hilary MacMillon founded her Toronto-based womenswear label in 2012. For this season’s collection, MacMillon drew her inspiration from her Scottish heritage. While providing a variety of pieces, her collection maintained its cohesion with her consistent use of red, tartan print, fur accessories, and bird graphics. MacMillon stayed true to her label, which focuses on creating pieces that are wearable for the modern urban woman. Her effortless tailoring and retro vibe thus did not completely conceal the female form or modern elements. For instance, her shapeless dresses were paired with surprising sexy open backs. Another favorite outfit was a white blouse paired with sexy trousers. The trousers are tipped off with red fabric. Accessories included a white knit cap and fur handbag. The outfit expressed MacMillon’s focus on female urban wear. 18 SHE CANADA Joseph Helmer is also based in Montreal. Originally trained as a tailor, he studied at Lasalle College in Montreal. He then travelled to Paris to continue his training as a technician and plastician. He practiced for some of the greatest names in fashion and performing arts in France, Italy, Spain, and Japan. At the same time, he worked on his own creations and completed his training in knits, embroidery, and textile design. After a number of years, Helmer returned to Montreal where he applied his twenty years of experience to Philippe Dubuc. With Dubuc, Helmer crafted costumes for the stage as well as wedding dresses. In the collection, there were a number of pieces that possessed a wonderful combination of tailoring and textiles. Tailored pieces were often contrasted with contoured lines. A number of these pieces were flattering to the female form. However, as the collection filed down the runway, you could feel as though there were two different voices speaking at once. Rather than being harmonious, it seemed as though the two voices were combatting for attention. For example, you had a vibrant orange tailored suit offset by an outfit involving a camo jacket, high waisted shorts, and rain boots. Plus, there were a couple of silhouettes, inspired from the 50s, that boxed the models’ figures. All in all though, most of the collection showed an interesting interpretation of vintage profiles and balance of different textiles. A personal favorite, a brown dress that consisted of soft chiffon and a glittery woven fabric. The cut of the dress resulted with a beautiful balance of fabrics and a very flattering and feminine silhouette. SHE CANADA 19 ONES TO WATCH By Sarah Horsfall CHRISTOPHER BATES THOMAS BALINT Since establishing his label, Christopher Bates has been a rising star in the world of menswear. Trained at Institute Marangoni, Bates currently sells his brand at leading Canadian retailers including: Holt Renfrew and Gotstyle Menswear. Bates has earned high recognition by being featured as one of the top six leading menswear designers in Canada (Sharp Magazine, September 2009). In 2012, Bates was selected as the only menswear designer in Mercedes-Benz StartUp Program and was awarded with a sponsored show at World MasterCard Fashion Week. Thomas Balint studied sculpture at the Ontario College of Art and Design in Toronto. He founded his label in 2010 and opened his first brick-and-mortar boutique in 2012. In 2013, Balint restructured his brand to incorporate his Hungarian Heritage. Using unique cuts, Balint modernizes classic styles with innovative design techniques. From the models that walked the runway, to the styling, and to the actual designs, the entire collection alluded to Balint’s Eastern background. The collection contained a mixed arrays of black, grey, and some shade of cream. The collection also included a great balance of soft and heavy materials. From silks to velvet, each design was the epitome of masculine urban wear. A nice surprise in the collection though, was a “dress” that referenced the image of a woman wearing a man’s collared shirt. A very sexy but tasteful apparel. His FW14 Collection, called Nocte, was inspired by Oscar Wilde’s infamous character Dorian Grey. Throughout his entire collection, Bates’ inserted interesting details that updated the traditional male outfit. For example, his striped shirts were given a little flare by being offset with diagonal lines at the bottom right. Additionally, his use of elbow patches, unique collars, use of different textiles. With the suspenders and bow tie suits, you can help but think of Mad Men reference. Whether wearing the casual sweater outfit or business suit, Christopher Bates’ collection simply exudes masculinity. MICHAEL KALE LAURA SIEGEL Michael Kale studied at Central Saint Martins in London. In 2003, he worked in Milan for labels such as Antonio Marras and Bally. He later secured a design position for Exte under Sergio Ciucco and Alessandro De Benedetti. He began his own label in 2007. Kale has been in numerous magazines including: New York Times Magazine, Wallpaper, Dazed and Confused, V Magazine, WWD, Nylon, and Surface. Formally educated at Parson’s School of Design (New York City) and Central Saint Martins (London), Laura Siegel is based in New York and Toronto. Her label is characterized by easy-to-wear textured pieces that are ethically handcrafted and collaboratively designed with artisans in Asia and Latin America. Siegel focused her skills in silver-smithing, knitting, natural dyeing, embroidery, and accessory design. Her work has let her to collaborate with international designers such as Megan Park, Life with Bird, Luca Luca, and Arthur Mendonca. Kale believes that garments are “mortal” for they move and breathe. Kales believes that garments are created to function as an extension of the wearer and to compliment the architecture of the body. His FW14 collection, expresses this belief for it spoke to the human form. Through his use of coloured textiles and embellishments, he demonstrated how the human body is a balance between structure (strength) and fluidity (fragile). 20 SHE CANADA Siegel’s FW14 collection focused on her signature day-to-day wear. Her entire collection is characterized by draped layering, funnel necks, and chunky knits. Her colours consists of deep and rich browns, medium to dark greens, and warm creams. She balanced her heavy outerwear pieces with hand knit suedes, wools, and cotton textiles. The overall feel of the collection was very bohemian. You can picture the models walking in a South American desert. Siegel used her skills to modernize the practice of quilting by applying unconventional materials like leather and silks. SHE CANADA 21 returning favourites By Liz Guber Anu Raina vawk Since her showing back in 2012, Anu Raina’s print mastery has been noticeably absent at the tent at WMCFW. Raina’s whimsical designs made their return in the Spring/ Summer 2014 season, just in time for the promise of warmer days to come. The inspiration was decidedly urban, with prints of a bird’s eye view of the city’s grid making appearances on multiple garments. A vista was drawn across a white mini skirt— that of the C.N. Tower framed by streetcar wires and high rises. It’s a view that is familiar to most, including Raina herself. The location of her studio in the garment district no doubt played a part in inspiring the collection’s motif. Sunny Fong’s VAWK presentation is always a favourite. This time around, the designer’s mostly black collection was inspirited by the collision of street style and the Middle East. To give the morose palette some depth, Fong played with texture, ranging from lightweight sheers to high-shine pleather. Still his most winning looks were the simplest. A long, body-con jersey dress with strategic slits across the body proved to be the showstopper. True to his customer, Fong showed a few pieces of luxe work-wear, like the folded leather skirt and a couple of sharply tailored coats. With this effort Anu Raina once again proves that she is a gifted manipulator of textiles. Her creations are the perfect uniform for die-hard Torontophiles who wear their love for their city on their sleeve. 22 SHE CANADA Sid niegum beaufille Since his TFI New Labels win two years ago, Sid Niegum has garnered a lot of buzz. Adopted as Toronto’s industry darling, the front row was dotted with Niegum’s designs on the day of his show. His latest collection, which combined monochrome looks with strong silhouettes and a masterful understanding of drape will only serve to win Niegum more converts. The palette of cream, copper, olive and black allowed for a directional exploration of cuts. Unafraid to play with strong proportions, the clothes showed just enough restraint to keep Niegum on stock lists around the world. Keep an eye out next season; you just might see that black high-collared vest worn by an editor or two. This sibling duo combines their strengths and differences to great effect. Parris oversees the brand’s jewellery design while Chloe focuses on ready-to-wear. With their clashing masculine and feminine aesthetics, the sisters manage to pull off balanced, covetable collections each season. This time around Chloe and Parris Gordon turned up the funk on the main runway with a collection that oozed bohemian swagger. From the choice of music to the snap back hats, the nods to hip-hop put a bit of attitude in the models’ strut. A more grown up Beaufille girl emerged this season, with her ‘90s grunge days behind her, she takes an unaffected, but nonetheless sophisticated approach to dressing. SHE CANADA 23 VANCOUVER FASH ION WEEK WELL GROOMED PARVESH AND JAI This couture Indo-Western fusion label is a Vancouver-grown success story, creating highly coveted designs for its high profile clients. Coming from a family with a strong background in textile manufacturing, Dave Singh uses traditional fabrics and techniques to create one-of-a-kind pieces that dazzle. The theatrics of Parvesh & Jai’s designs comes through at first glance. Not surprising seeing as they have been commissioned as costume designers for numerous Indo-French operas – Mozart Magic in 2011, Alexander The Great in 2012, Le Orfeo in 2013, just to name a few. The driving force behind this design duo from India: ethical design. Having been named amongst the top 25 ethical designers worldwide, from their first swimwear label, Blue Coral, to their high-end couture line, Raasleela, they continue to take the world by storm. Their swimwear designs are sold in Paris, Brazil, Greece, Sydney, New York, London and LA. Photography: Dale Rollings and Aziz Dhamani Setting the tone for the evening portion of the shows, the audience was serenaded by a violinist before being regaled by hand embroidered creations in precious metal tones of silver, champagne, amber and gold. Inspired by Indian Parsi threadwork that was originally depicted in Kashmiri shawls, “Once Upon A Bride” told a story of a bride blossoming from a young woman into a beautiful swan-like creature. Dresses with mermaid and anarkali cuts were embellished Swarovski crystals producing pieces that shimmered across the catwalk like the sun glimmering across water. Their VFW Fall/Winter 2014 collection, titled “The Baroque Princess”, takes us on a journey through the Baroque art period of the 17th and 18th centuries. Shimmery black dresses cascade over the body, boleros with zari and gold embroidered detailing are paired with modern Salwar pants and jumpsuits, and raw silk in champagne hues is fashioned into an A-line one-sleeve dress. Playful, theatrical and reminiscent of Galliano’s shows for Dior, Parvesh & Jai produced a highly commercial collection of draping silhouettes tailored to make women feel truly beautiful. SHRAVAN KUMAR “Fashion is a religion, more than a mere profession.” So starts one’s journey into Shravan Kumar’s artistic mind. Always seeking to shock and surprise his audience, Shravan’s designs rely on unconventional fabrics to translate his vision into never seen pieces for his regal and elegant clients. Wrapping up day three of VFW, with a finale of epic proportions, Shravan presented “An Ode to Weaves and Weavers” a play on the interweaving of his life and work. “To me weaving represents a balance in life,” stated Kumar in the pre-show notes. “You have to find a certain degree of strength and balance between everything and your fabric will be complete.” Beginning in a non-traditional fashion, with all models on the runway, we saw mens and womenswear in regal, jewel tones. Men’s jackets were traditional yet infused with British influence – embroidered crests on breast pockets and embellished lapels on blazers in velvet fabrics. Women’s designs included modern saris, velvet skirts combined with embroidered corsets, and gorgeous, voluminous gowns. 24 SHE CANADA SHE CANADA 25 Events runway beauty at vfw “We are very excited about this new partnership,” stated Jamal Abdourahman, founder and producer of VFW. “Vancouver Fashion Week is growing rapidly year-overyear, and this speaks to the significance that the event is taking on the global stage. Through this relationship with COVERGIRL, Pantene and Olay we are able to provide an even brighter spotlight under which designers can present their collections to the world.” “COVERGIRL, Pantene and Olay are proud to be the Presenting Sponsors and exclusive suppliers of makeup, haircare and skincare products for Vancouver Fashion Week,” said Melissa Karis, Director of Communications, P&G Beauty & Grooming. “We are committed to supporting beauty and fashion in Canada and we’re excited to stand behind Vancouver Fashion Week’s vision of bringing diverse and innovative design talent together in this growing platform.” Guests of VFW were treated to hair and makeup touch-ups at Beauty Bars throughout the event, with styling products from the Pantene Pro-V Stylers collection and makeup from some of the latest COVERGIRL collections including Bombshell and TruBlend. Visitors to the Beauty Bars could get their picture taken by professional photographers or do it themselves at convenient selfie mirrors after their runway-inspired touch-up to share on their social networks. Vancouver Fashion Week’s Fall/Winter 2014 showcase was the best to date. With over 50 designers from 21 countries, Vancouver once again played host to an abundance of established and emerging talent—and the list will keep on growing. 26 SHE CANADA The people behind the Products COVERGIRL, Pantene, and Olay This year one of Vancouver Fashion Week’s major sponsors was the world leading product conglomerate Proctor & Gamble, bringing with them COVERGIRL, Pantene, and Olay products to be exclusively used throughout the show. “It allows us as makeup artists to do our jobs with way more ease and efficiency,” expressed Daphne Chuan and Jerry Kuo. Both from Taiwan, these professional make-up artists are volunteering their skills here at the event this year. This is Daphne’s second appearance at Vancouver Fashion Week and she notices a vast difference between last year’s show to this current one. “We had to bring all our own products as well as tools. This proved incredibly difficult to match the different skin tones of all the models; COVERGIRL has a huge assortment of tone matching cover ups such as truBLEND, they made a huge difference in the final touches!” In terms of hair, Pantene products lay the backdrop for the styles that make these models come alive. “Getting sponsorship from Pantene certainly helps out on our budget; being volunteers we are usually responsible for all our own equipment so it really helps out,” Julian, a hairstylist from Edmonton stated. “ We invest hours and hours of time and work for a 45 second walk on the runway and having the products already here eases at least one part of the process.” When asked about his thoughts on Fashion Week in general Julian responded with, “It’s good for the art of everything; it’s so successful because of the passion immersed in it. I only get to see the very last show usually but the seeing the end result makes it worth it!” COVERGIRL, Pantene, and Olay have set up stations dispersed around the venue so guests and viewers can test the same products for themselves. Makeup artists and hairstylists man these booths offering makeovers and touch ups during the course of the event. SHE CANADA 27 Fashion Central Fashion Central Marketing I was really immersed in the brands.” Fashion, Beauty & the Digital Revolution: Pixie Gedolf, Mary Katrantzou, Miroslava Duma, Nick Knight Photography: Darren Garrish Vogue Festival 2014 By Priya Kumar “This is the third year of the Festival and I’m delighted that our lineup is bigger than ever,” said British Vogue editor Alexandra Shulman of the Vogue Festival 2014. Literary festivals featuring panels of esteemed authors have become all the rage around the world; considering fashion’s comparable presence in the arts, creating a festival around the visionaries that shape the way we see style simply made good business sense and who better to host such a meeting of the minds than Vogue Magazine? “Of course, the price of a ticket also gains you access to the huge number of activities taking place around the talks,” Shulman continued. For this year’s festivities held on the last weekend of March, I had the opportunity to attend two highly coveted panels: “My Fashion Life” with Tory Burch (see below for interview breakdown), Angela Missoni and Manolo Blahnik and “Fashion, Beauty and the Digital Revolution” with Pixie Geldof, Miroslava Duma, Nick Knight and Mary Katrantzou. Besides being privy to a discussion amongst some of the most influential figures in fashion, guests of the Festival were offered hairstyles worthy of a magazine spread by Kérastase, makeovers by Burberry, Chanel and Bobbi Brown and Vogue monogrammed manicures by OPI. Harrods, as the Festival’s title sponsor, offered perhaps the highlight of the weekend—a chance to walk the runway on Harrods Live Runway. After participants’ photos were shared via social media, the two with the most likes won Harrods shopping sprees. 28 SHE CANADA The weekend also saw book signings with Manolo Blahnik and Nick Knight (best known for his videography work for the live streaming of Alexander McQueen’s S/S10 fashion show—revolutionary for its time), style and industry advice from editors, Vogue themed cupcakes in the Harrods Café and tons of great merchandise. Held at the Southbank Centre just steps away from the London Eye, the experience was aimed at non-industry fashion fiends but as a guest attending for work and pleasure, the event exceeded my wildest expectations. Meticulously organized, the Festival was planned around keeping social media in mind. Two separate hashtags (#voguefestival and #harrodslive) were created specifically for the tens of thousands of anticipated uploads over the course of the weekend. “We hope you enjoy your time in the world of Vogue,” Shulman concluded. Tory Burch Interview Exclusive from “My Fashion Life” “My Fashion Life” brought together the grandmasters of design on a once-in-a-lifetime panel to discuss how they reached their respective levels of success. The talk opened with Tory Burch, designer and CEO of her eponymous fashion label renowned the world over for its brand ethos of Hamptons chic. Despite holding the title of the second-youngest, self- Alexa Chung made female billionaire in the world, Burch’s upbringing was such that she didn’t necessarily have to work in adulthood. Her father, a financier, was so well connected in Philadelphia society he dated Grace Kelly prior to her assentation to the Monegasque throne, while her mother briefly dated legendary movie star Steve McQueen. Growing up she says as a child she was quite unaware of their glamorous pasts, “I don’t think I was that aware. We grew up on a farm basically in the middle of nowhere because they wanted to give us a more wholesome childhood.” A self-proclaimed tomboy, Burch found it hard to wear a dress until her prom, which was an Yves Saint Laurent, no less. Her summers in school were spent interning at Christie’s and when she did eventually enter the fashion world after graduating from the University of Pennsylvania, it was to work for a Yugoslavian designer named Zoran. This initial role led to her career in PR with Vera Wang, Polo Ralph Lauren, Loewe and Narciso Rodriguez: “Even though I was in PR and It was during the three years she took off from working to raise her sons that she realized what she needed to do next in terms of her career. She loved designer clothes but couldn’t always afford to purchase them herself, so she set out to create something beautiful, with great detailing and fabric, but affordable. This notion led to the birth of her eponymous label in her apartment at the Pierre Hotel off Central Park. “There was so much cold calling, just getting people to come up, I had two racks, clothes everywhere, a little bit of a design team, three people, really just asking people to come up and see it. Our opening was in Fashion Week 2004. It was 10 years ago and that opening was where we really announced our collection.” Burch started from modest means at a small boutique on Elizabeth Street in New York City’s neighborhood of SoHo as to not overextend the brand. She was not yet aware of the value of her product, but the label quickly grew in popularity and soon Bergdorf Goodman was her first account. When Burch initially started the company, she and her ex-husband Chris Burch put in a small amount of money each along with several other investors: “We did one round of financing but I think there were probably 150 investors. I was so terrified of taking people’s money that I said, ‘If you want to invest, just be prepared to lose it because I just can’t take that pressure.’ We just got a lot of people to invest a very small amount. It was exciting and it worked out.” This was an understatement from a pioneer of democratic luxury; today Tory Burch operates over 100 stores around the world and she still manages to get home for 7PM every night to put food on the table for her three sons and three stepdaughters. In regards to any advice she would give to young people starting out in the industry she says succinctly, “I would say do it, but you have to have a unique idea and the wherewithal to understand it’s going to be a tremendous amount of work. And it’s been an incredible amount of work but it’s just been so fulfilling.” My Fashion Life: Tory Burch, Angela Missoni, Manolo Blahnik SHE CANADA 29 Monica Dogra Modern-Day Renaissance (Wo)man By Priya Kumar 30 SHE CANADA She reigns over Mumbai’s entertainment scene. As an actress/model/singer/brand ambassador/designer, there is very little Monica Dogra hasn’t done with her career. Her willowy, tall statuesque frame was most recently seen on the runway at Lakmé Fashion Week for 11:11 CellDSGN; now she’s doing the designing for a collection in collaboration with e-commerce site Stylista. If that’s not enough on her plate, she’s also preparing for the launch of her first solo album. Along with a myriad of films in production or on the verge of release, Dogra can one day look back at her FOMO-free career with pride. SHE CANADA 31 Dhobi Ghat was like a visual and emotional symphony of story and sound. I think it’s a film that dives into the poetic and the heart breaking of the everyday mundane. F or a city of 40 million, Mumbai sure is a small world. Monica Dogra and I have run in similar circles in Bombay—as we fondly call it—for years. Both sharing a similar ex-pat pedigree, many of the parties and social activities we frequented overlapped regularly. In fact, her husband is a childhood friend of mine from Toronto. On a monthly basis SHE is at a loss for which of the endless supply of South Asian celebrities we should feature on our cover; it is a struggle to choose which talent is worthy of the honour. But when it came to my attention that Dogra was launching her first solo musical effort during a season obsessed with the music festival, putting her on the June/July cover seemed a no-brainer. North American audiences know Dogra best for her role in the Kiran Rao film Dhobi Ghat, one of the hottest tickets available at TIFF back in 2010. Starring opposite Bollywood legend Aamir Khan, Dogra played Shai, an American (former) investment banker looking to find herself in Mumbai through photography. It’s said that when Rao set out to cast the film, she had Dogra in mind the whole time. A role where life seemingly imitates art, or better yet vice versa, Dogra’s performance as the fish-outof-water in the Maximum City—another popular moniker for Mumbai— was lauded the world over. 32 SHE CANADA Dhobi Ghat catapulted Dogra onto the A-list as India’s international “it” girl, all but eclipsing her music career as one half of the electro-pop sensation Shaa’ir + Func. A renowned indie-rock band based in Mumbai, S+F have paved the way in a country possessed by Bollywood for other bands offering something different. As Shaa’ir, Monica’s ethereal and sometimes haunting vocals brings a sense of balance to the otherwise overpowering beat. She and her counterpart, Randolph Correia (Func) have performed across the globe including at Glastonbury, the largest greenfield festival in the world. They will be returning for a second time this summer to an audience of 175,000. went on to NYU where she graduated with a Bachelors in Music. Spanning the world over, her career has been anything but ordinary. I recently had the chance to catch up with Dogra to chat about her latest work including her role of Michelle opposite Rahul Khanna in the film Fireflies that premiered not too long ago at the New York Indian Film Festival. Here’s how our conversation unfolded: Born and raised in Baltimore, Maryland, Dogra grew up first generation Indian. She Actually, I feel Fireflies is a film for India albeit not a mainstream one. It’s a delicate, You’ve got many projects on the go at the moment—tell me a bit about your role in the film Fireflies. With an international release at NYIFF do you feel the film will strike a chord with international audiences as well? emotional portrayal of two brothers experiencing loss and longing in irreparable circumstances. The treatment is one that is a realistic representation of the Indian middle class without the pomp and theatrics in your usual Bollywood film. There’s also talk of the short Severing Ties with Kalki Koechlin. It’s my understanding it was partially funded using Kickstarter. Was that sort of entrepreneurial drive evident on set as well? Yes, absolutely. Severing Ties is a passion project and all those involved were rooted in love and belief. As an artist, I hold this dynamic as paramount to the creation of a work that will traverse the space of being “independent” and therefore not commercially viable, to ultimately reaching SHE CANADA 33 As a performance artist, much of what we do is image based— and my solo album is an effort towards the undoing of all those illusions. wide audiences. I recently shot a film in LA called #relapse, produced by Jeff Roy, who is a filmmaker I met in India (he is how I was brought on the project) - the level of artistry and dedication I saw from my co-actor, Casey Legler, my director, Rosie Haber, and my producer, Jeff - left me feeling like I was involved in an Oscar-worthy project. And I think that’s all I really am out there looking for, that feeling of alchemy, that I’m contributing to something transformative and magical. Tell me a bit about your role in the yet to be titled film opposite Naseeruddin Shah. What was it like working with such a legend? The film is still untitled and on pause mid-shoot for a number of reasons. I am 34 SHE CANADA honoured to be in a film where Naseer-sir is also involved, but have to refrain from commenting further as I’m unsure of the status of this project at the moment. You’re about to release your first solo effort—Shaa’ir by Monica Dogra. How has the creative process differed from when you wrote and composed alongside Func? Dhobi Ghat (2010) was released at TIFF and was hugely popular in Canada. Why do you feel it resonated so well with a global audience? I have not titled my solo album yet. I thought about naming it what you mentioned, but I’ve changed my mind! Go figure. The creative process differed for me because as a solo venture this is a moment in time where I am defining myself with myself only—alone—standing on two feet unafraid to share the fragments and the bruised. As a performance artist, much of what we do is image based—and my solo album is an effort towards the undoing of all those illusions. Dhobi Ghat was like a visual and emotional symphony of story and sound. I think it’s a film that dives into the poetic and the heart breaking of the everyday mundane. That way, it’s an extremely relatable story. It’s one that puts a mirror up to the ways we may get stuck in outdated systems - preventing ourselves from connecting, loving, and experiencing life freely. Where will your music be available for download and purchase? Hopefully, everywhere. I just signed with a new agency and the roll out plan for the release has not been locked. Tell me a bit about your upcoming international tour dates. I’m hearing whispers about Glastonbury. Is Canada also on the agenda? Glastonbury is happening for the second time! I’m terribly excited. I will also be in Berlin shooting a music video and playing a show for Border Movement. After that I will be in Canada for a bit chilling out in July and my music partner will also be Stateside so I wouldn’t rule out a show in Toronto! But in the end, someone would have to book us. That’s how that works [Dogra says with a wink]. As this issue was going to press, there was much debate swirling around her role in #relapse, a film that challenges society’s understanding of gender roles and identity. Time will tell how audiences receive the role, but as her first big North American project and the O-word (Oscar) being dropped herself, we expect big things. Dogra is certainly one to watch. SHE CANADA 35 Women are incredible agents of change. The problem is they have been either barred from participating in development or blocked from access. – Megane Fallone, Barefoot College slowed the negative impact of deforestation, and decreased air pollution from burning firewood and kerosene. If households are able to invest in these units, people can socialize, take night classes, and engage in income-generating activities after sunset. Merle Oberon Roy has built a revolutionary program where women are no longer barred from education and are now being empowered. Tilania’s Barefoot College has inspired twenty-four colleges in countries like Afghanistan, Bolivia, and fifteen African nations. Women who were trained at the College in Tilania have replicated the model at home. Their newly found skills enable them to take part in crucial aspects of their communities. As Roy had intended, a woman who had been lifted out of poverty inspires her community to soon follow. Hollywood’s First Taste of the Far East By Priya Kumar Barefoot College W By Sarah Horsfall hen education is marginalized, how can rural communities engage in self-sustaining activities and lift themselves out of poverty? This is a question that Sanjit “Bunker” Roy has spent his entire life not only trying to answer but to also resolve. In 1972, he established a rural college in Tilonia, India called “Barefoot College”. The college is not your typical institute for it was built by and exclusively for the poor. Its mission is to lift those who are marginalized, exploited, and impoverished over the poverty line. The college applies rural traditional knowledge and skills to build homes, to collect water where potable water is scarce, and spread socio-economic messages at the grassroots level. The college also introduces technologies that can be understood and controlled by rural communities so that quality of life for the poor is improved. 36 SHE CANADA The College recognizes that women tend to suffer the most in poor conditions. They cannot develop specialized skills because they are often barred from training. A community cannot be lifted out of poverty when half of its population remains ostracized. To resolve this issue, the College focuses a majority of its efforts on promoting the equality of women. The College trains rural women to become solar engineers, parabolic solar cooker engineers, barefoot midwives, teachers, and other skilled professions. Roy focuses on educating women because he believes they possess more loyalty to their communities. As a result, they are more likely to return home and enable their communities to benefit from their learned skills. The College’s ability to promote sustainable living and holistic development derives from its unique infrastructure. For example, the College liaises with village elders to select two grandmothers to be trained as solar engineers. The village then creates a committee of men and women to establish a solar program where funds are collected from each participating household and provide a workshop building for the women. The program provides electricity to households and public facilities like schools, hospitals, and community centres. Manufacturing these units require high accuracy and skill in metal craftsmanship. Women are trained through sign language and numerically arranged colour codes. These colour codes help them to remember the permutation and combination of the wires. In six months, the women learn to handle charge controllers and inverters, to install panels and link them to batteries, to build solar lanterns and to establish a local electronic workshop where they can carry out all repairs to the solar power system themselves. Barefoot College has sparked a global movement. Communities are experiencing positive environmental, economic, and social ramifications. For instance, the use of solar energy has reduced carbon dioxide emissions, SHE CANADA 37 Special Feature Special Feature By Sheri Beatty Summer is here! Summer is always a busy time for Toronto and this year is no exception for the city or for MAX Agency. MAX Agency is consistently seeking new clients, planning events and submitting talent for auditions. With a summer full of events like Luminato, NXNE, Toronto Jazz Festival, Toronto Pride, Digital Dreams, The Toronto Fringe and Summerlicious you can look to MAX Agency for all of your event planning and fashion show needs leading up to TIFF and all year round. The film and television industry in Hollywood North is very busy and very hot this summer! Chalk full of great shooting locations, Toronto is Wall Street without the water and with Canada Government Tax Credits, shooting your movie in Toronto would have to be the best choice! Summer in the City By Eloise Alba MAX Agency is a very talented and sought after developer of companies while being well versed in meeting the budgetary needs of any up and coming brand. Complimented across Canada and all over the world for its diverse roster and immense talent base MAX and MAX Talent are always ready to help lead any brand down the road to success. I spoke with the agency’s Booker recently about their talent and the agency has said they are currently looking for new and talented clients of all shapes, ages, sizes and ethnicities to complete their roster. “We would particularly love to meet potential male and female clients over the age of fifty and clients of all ages from all ethnic backgrounds.” To get an interview with an agent and begin the process of becoming a MAX client, please fill out the online application form at maxagency.com. New clients are given the opportunity to participate in mandatory free introductory acting classes in Toronto through The Talent Shop and in a competitive talent based industry the proper training is very important. The agency’s Booker went on to say, “We are actively seeking travel opportunities for MAX models to spend time in another major city auditioning and gaining an international perspective of the industry.” “Our agency holds open calls every Wednesday and we are always searching for new talent to be represented here and out of town. We are able to submit talent for projects all over the world!” In addition to Toronto, MAX has clients in Paris, Montreal and Manhattan among other great cities! For an opportunity to become a part of the talent industry please contact MAX agency! Contact MAX Agency at (416) 482-5392 or visit www.maxagency.com 38 SHE CANADA SHE CANADA 39 40 SHE CANADA SHE CANADA 41 42 SHE CANADA SHE CANADA 43 44 SHE CANADA SHE CANADA 45 46 SHE CANADA SHE CANADA 47 sHepreneur I was tired of hitting a glass ceiling and being told what to do. Youzus founder, Sonya Gill By: Harpreet Brar S you naturally have to have an online voice no matter what – and a large one at that. And it worked. tarting her business with only $1500 in her pocket, Sonya Gill has proven to be a successful force in the social media and public relations world. Her PR agency, Youzus originally started as a blog in 2010 and has since grown to become a full service agency where brands connect with other influencers. Dating back to her childhood, Gill has always immersed herself in a creative field, making her role as a social media expert a natural step in her career. You’ve served as a host for many television and radio channels, and have already established your own social media savvy business. As a child, did you always know which direction you wanted your career to go in? I didn’t always know I would end up here, but looking back in time and connecting the dots of my past, it should have been readily apparent that I would end up in media. As a child, I was always singing, writing, drawing, acting or doing something of the creative sort. My friends’ parents would always tell me that I belonged in television, but I never took it for anything more than a surface value compliment - I just thought it meant that I talked a lot! As the founder of Youzus, what would you say has been your proudest moment to date within the company? Building the business from a blog to an agency and starting with less than $1500 in my pocket. What is the best piece of advice you’ve ever received? What was the driving force that motivated you to begin your own business? I was tired of hitting a glass ceiling and being told what to do. I wanted to control my own fate and my own destiny and create the kind of life that I always dreamed of. Your new book, “Keep It Super Simple For Social Media”, is a guide to successful online marketing and branding. How did you begin to acquire these skills as an individual and put them to practice? I’ve always been heavily immersed within the online world – we’re talking from way 48 SHE CANADA Be bold, but remain humble. And always put yourself in the other persons shoes. back in the day when Friendster and MySpace came into existence and before the word ‘social media’ came to the limelight. So when I began my career in television and radio, I was already on a lot of these sites (even Hi5.com), so leveraging my name was not very hard to do. By the time Facebook rolled around and then Twitter, it soon became a requirement to be online and have social media accounts as a media personality. The learning process at first was very raw, like a monkey see, monkey do type of deal, but the more literature that started coming out on how to brand yourself online, the more I kept learning (i.e. blogs, books, audio books etc.). I practiced on myself in the beginning, because when you’re a television or radio personality, As someone who is consistently speaking at public events, how do you calm your nerves before you’re given the microphone? To be honest, my hands still shake to this day! I don’t know why, especially because I’ve been doing it for such a long time. But I will admit that I do a lot of self-talking and coaching. I have to remind myself that I’m not there to just speak, I’m there to teach and inspire. People didn’t come to see me, they came to hear what I have to say. So just remembering to connect with individuals on a personal level and relating a lot of what I have to say to real life experiences makes it very easy for me. SHE CANADA 49 Mauritius Visit the Paradise Calendar W By: Robin Esrock hen I was a teenager, my parents gave me an “islands of the world” calendar featuring 12 months of impossibly turquoise water. You know, the ones with coconut trees bending over a white sandy beach? I’d cut out the photos, taping them to the walls of my bedroom, dreamily staring at them long after the months ran out, and a new calendar arrived. The islands had wonderfully exotic sounding names: The Maldives, Tahiti, and my favourite, Mauritius. Something about the way it rolled off the tongue. It sounded delicious. From Canada, it’s no picnic getting to Mauritius. Located 900km east of Madagascar inside the Indian Ocean, Mauritius is small, tear drop tropical island home to to 1.2 million people, mostly descendants of Indians brought over by the British to work on sugarcane plantations. Since independence in 1968, the official language of Mauritius is English, everyone speaks Creole, and reads and writes in French, a throwback to its French colonial days. Not that I paid too much attention, soaking in a hot summer night, and an all-night Creole celebration outside the capital of Port Louis. At last, I was invading those dog-eared photos on my old bedroom wall. 50 SHE CANADA As one the most popular honeymoon and holiday destinations for French, German and British tourists, the island has around 100 resorts, primarily congregated in the north and west. I headed south, a region that is slowly shifting away from sugarcane plantations into exclusive golf courses and luxury villas. Like other tropical islands, Mauritius is refocusing its resources on tourism to offset declining sugar prices. The Heritage Le Telfair Resort is part of four properties developed under the same locally-owned hotel group, oozing class and old world service. Every night, I dug my toes in the sand watch- ing a picture perfect sunset, as one is prone to do on island escapes. A short golf cart ride away is the Villas Valriche, where foreigners can now purchase luxury 4 bedroom villas overlooking a stunning 27hole golf course. While you can expect to shell out a couple million dollars for the privilege, it comes with handy Mauritian citizenship. Sell your villa however, and you lose your passport. On a boat cruise to the nearby Ile de Coco, a pod of Spinner dolphins are practicing their aerial gymnastics. In the distance, I see a mountain called Le Morne, where escaped slaves took refuge, and preferred to jump to their death rather than be captured. The captain plucks spiny sea urchins off the shallow lagoon floor, cuts them open, cleaned them out, and hands them to me with a dash of lemon juice. Fresh seafood never tasted so good. Like other Mauritians I’d met, the Captain was cheery and good-natured, sporting a white toothy watermelon smile. He tells me about Snake Island (which is round and has no snakes) and Round Island (which has snakes and isn’t round); that people here leave their religion at home, which is how Hindus, Muslims and Christians co-exist peacefully; how 70% of the staff in the resorts springing up in the south is from neighbouring villages. Creole pop music is blasting from the speakers. I take a break from the beach to visit a roadside attraction called Casela, a bird and safari park, where I pet lion cubs and drift amongst zebra on an offroad Segway. Around me are honeymooners and families, mostly Euros and South Africans loving their ultimate tropical island getaway. I drive from south to north in just three hours, leaving the mountains for the bustle of Port Louis, and the more developed north. There are traffic jams every day inside Port Louis, and basic goods can be pricey, imported from as far away as Australia and South Africa. I leave the city for one of the island’s premier resorts, the Lux Grand Gaube Hotel. TripAdvisor called it one of the world’s most romantic hotels, and so it’s no surprise to find rows of couples facing each other over candlelight at the poolside restaurant. Fortunately, I had my wife to enjoy the moment, because this is really not an island you want to experience on your own (nor does it much cater to singles and younger travellers). It’s always a good time of year to unwind on a tropical island. With direct flights from Dubai, Mauritius does not have to be another elusive calendar dream brightening up your office walls. Of course if you have such a calendar, use it to cross off the days, dream big, and look forward to finding yourself under the shade of a Mauritian coconut tree. Robin Esrock is the bestselling author of The Great Canadian Bucket List, and the host of the OLN/City TV series Word Travels. You can find him at www.robinesrock.com SHE CANADA 51 You recently introduced the Bill that now calls on the month of April to be recognized as Sikh Heritage Month in the Ontario Legislature. Do you feel that this will eventually be celebrated nationally? Hepreneur MPP Jagmeet Singh By: Harpreet Brar B eginning his career as a lawyer, Jagmeet Singh offered free legal services to communities around the GTA. It was because of his aid to minorities struggling with unaddressed issues that pushed Singh to run as a candidate for the Ontario Provincial Parliament. Viewed as a human rights activist, Jagmeet Singh addresses issues on women as marginalized groups as well as religious equality, specifically within the Sikh community. After working as a lawyer and establishing your own practice, what was the trigger that motivated you to enter politics? As a lawyer, I would provide free legal services to different community groups. One group that I used to help out a lot had a human rights issue that they were raising and no politicians would help them. It turned out that some politicians were kind of discouraging what they were doing. At the end of it, we were successful in raising the issue that we wanted to raise. The group felt really disheartened that elected officials from the same community that was impacted by this human rights issue were discouraging them, so they said that they needed to run a candidate that wouldn’t be afraid to speak on issues that would come up. It took about six months of persuasion from different community groups that wanted me to run and eventually, I caved. So this is something you wouldn’t have pursued if it weren’t for your peers? No, I definitely would not have. I would vote regularly, but it wasn’t something I wanted to do and it was really the encouragement from my colleagues, peers, and some of my family that got me into it. I really do appreciate and value where I am. I’ve grown a lot more in these two years than I would have grown in legal services. The way I’ve been able to inspire people is so humbling, that I’ve actually been able to help people out and get It’s the first law of its kind in the world. It’s the first time that any government in the world has a permanent month forever that will be celebrated as Sikh Heritage Month. I’m hoping that it grows into a movement to celebrate Sikh Heritage across Canada and then hopefully across the world. You have a large following on social media and many of your followers consist of young people who look up to you. Unfortunately, this is rare amongst politicians. How do you continue to inspire and connect with the youth? young people involved in politics and get the community to believe that they can elect someone that will follow through with what they say they’ll do. Someone once asked me why I’m able to connect with the youth and I said “maybe because I’m not that old yet”, but I’m getting older now so maybe that doesn’t work anymore. One of the things that I value as a skill in life is remembering what it was like to be young. So when I talk to youth I try to remember what I was like at that time. I feel that I can keep my messages relevant that way, remembering the worries and the hopes that I had. I also have a lot of young people around me, they keep me young me too. You are consistently seen as a human rights activist, what are the issues that you consider to be the most prominent at the moment? Your impeccable style has been known to be influential amongst many. How do you stay up to date in terms of fashion and style? One way to summarize the most prominent issues: minority groups are facing oppression and injustice and our job is to make sure that those groups that are in the minority and the groups that are vulnerable and small in numbers are protected. One of the major things I have to stress – the mistreatment of women is probably the biggest problem in the entire world because that’s half of our population and women are some of the most marginalized and vulnerable people because of the power imbalance. Its not localized and they are a minority group – not in number, but in power. People would think that I got into style because I like clothes but I’m going to give you the inside scoop. When I was growing up in Windsor, I used to get picked on a lot. There wasn’t very much diversity there. I was a tough kid and I didn’t let it get to me – I would defend myself. So I would try to dress in a way that would show that I was tough. But as I got older, I realized that I couldn’t really ‘look’ tough anymore. I basically tried to dress in the sharpest way possible because people are going to look at me so I thought I might as well give them something to look at. I started dressing in a way that would convey my beliefs and values. I made sure I carried myself in a way that would showcase who I was and I spoke with conviction. If you could relay one message to the youth, the people who look up to you, what would that be? I would say that I want everyone to develop in themselves a courageous spirit of their own self-worth. An internal confidence comes from knowing who you are. You really have to be sure of yourself to deal with all of the pressures you’re going to face in your life, especially young people. To deal with the pressures you have to develop internal confidence that’s not dependent on anyone else. It comes from knowing who you are, your identity and from having a courageous sense of your own self-worth. My sister-in-law is great; we go on shopping sprees together, have lunch dates, and ultimately have a friendship that goes beyond our relation through my husband. Now when I said she was great, I meant that she’s great when she’s not living with my husband and I. She recently moved home and has nowhere else to stay until she lands a job. I’m a very hospitable person, but it’s been three months now. She’s creating tension between my husband and I and we’ve been stripped of our privacy. I don’t want to be the person who kicked out my husband’s sister but I feel like I might have to be. How do I break it to her that her lease is almost up? HE: This is a tough situation. Why don’t you start by emailing her postings to jobs? If she’s not actively looking, then you need to push-start the process. By receiving these emails, your sis-in-law will slowly begin to realize that her welcome isn’t so welcome anymore. SHE: While you may not have anticipated her lengthy visit, it depends on whether you offered her your place and if you gave her that whole “you can stay as long as you want, my house is your house” spiel. If that’s the case, there isn’t much you can do without looking like the bad guy. She may not like what you have to say, but this is because she’s not prepared to hear it. Perhaps she’s gotten a little too comfortable. If the bond with your husband’s sister goes further than just a mere connection, then don’t be afraid to be a friend. Do this by talking to her about the situation you’re in, and explain in a way that she can relate to what you might be going through. She’s a woman, she’ll understand more than you think. 54 SHE CANADA My fiancé and I are getting married next year. We’ve been together for 8 years, since high school. Lately I’ve been getting cold feet – and we’re nowhere near the wedding yet. Suddenly I’m beginning to think that I haven’t seen what else is out there for me and I could just be stuck in my own little world. On top of that, I just feel like my interests and hobbies are shifting, whereas my fiancé’s are sort of just standing still. Are these normal thoughts about someone you’re about to marry or is it time for me to be on my own? HE: This is normal, however, if this is someone you want to spend the rest of your life with, you need to ask yourself if what you two have at this moment is enough. Forget about what you had in the past back in high school. People change by nature. You need to determine whether you want to grow with or without him. SHE: I think we all know the answer to this one. It’s obvious that you have a fiancé who’s not growing at the rapid speed you are. You may have started to realize that, yes, there is more out there for you and no, you don’t need to spend the rest of your life with your high school sweetheart – no matter how romantic on paper that may seem. You’re better off being with someone who’s more compatible with the person you’ve become, not the person you were. SHE CANADA 55 South Asian inventions SIR JAGADISH CHANDRA BOSE – WIRELESS RADIO VINOD DHAM – PENTIUM CHIP SUSHRUTA – FATHER OF SURGERY 1994 2013 1993 Around 800 BC Sushruta was an ancient Indian surgeon who was the first to come up with a number of surgeries to practice. He describes more than 300 kinds of operations that call for 42 different surgical processes and 121 different types of instruments in a series of books he authored, which are collectively known as “Sushruta Samhita”. Sushruta is also known as the Father of Plastic and Cosmetic Surgery which is also described in his texts. SHIVA AYYADURAI – E-MAIL An electronic program developed to simulate the features of the interoffice, soon became what we know as E-mail today. A 14-year-old Shiva Ayyadurai had a goal to develop an interorganizational paper mail system to simplify the way people sent messages to others. Ayyadurai had a vision that everyone from secretary to CEO could send and receive direct digital messages. Today, e-mail is used all over the world, not just for business purposes. 56 SHE CANADA EESHA KHARE – SUPER CAPACITOR PHONE CHARGER Known as the “Father of the Pentium chip”, Vinod Dham developed the most successful Pentium processors for the company Intel. Once it was a hit, Vinod was promoted to the position of the Vice President of the Intel’s Microprocessor Products Group. In 1993, Dham was quoted one of the top 25 executives in the US computer industry and in 1999 he was among the top 100 most influential Asian Americans of the decade. 1978 500 BC 1895 In 1895, Jagadish Chandra Bose made a public demonstration of wireless radio. However, his discovery was mostly overlooked and Guglielmo Marconi was given recognition when he made a demonstration in 1897. However, scientists around the world now acknowledge J.C. Bose as the true pioneer. On March 29, 1904, Bose became the first Indian to receive a U.S. patent. We all detest sitting by our phones in one spot waiting for them to charge. Well, 18-year-old Eesha Khare revolutionized a device that can charge your phone in 20 seconds flat. An electrochemical supercapacitor device as they call it, the invention assists the charging device to hold charge for an even longer period of time. Khare’s invention won $50,000 in prize money at the Intel Foundation Young Scientist Award held in Phoenix, Arizona. AJAY BHATT – USB Ajay Bhatt has approximately 31 patents under his name including the invention of the Universal Serial Bus (USB). Bhatt invented the USB while he was working for Intel and became globally known in 2009 when actor Sunil Narkar portrayed him in a television commercial. The USB has made for simpler times by allowing users to connect devices to their computer. It is now used for many electronic devices all over the world such as cellphones and memory sticks. Bhatt estimates that there are over 10 billion devices that use the USB! SHE CANADA 57 2 1 1 2 3 Penguin Menswear 5 Vivienne Westwood 3 4 vacation 5 6 7 8 mode 4 Summer is here, finally. Make the most of every long weekend in these warm weather staples. Who said shopping for your significant other wasn’t fun? 1 TOPMAN Makahiki Hawaiian short sleeve shirt $75 2 YUVI Black Diamond and silver cord bracelet $620 3 MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA Leather slip ons $520 4 ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Slim fit cotton-chambray shirt $335 1 BOTTEGA VENETA Striped intrecciato leather billfold wallet $480 SAINT LAURENT Requin collar surfer shirt $890 5 2 RAY-BAN Metal aviator mirrored sunglasses $145 DOLCE & GABBANA Burnished leather sandals $485 6 3 FOLK Suede and leather sneakers $320 UNIFORM WARES Wristwatch $890 7 4 DOLCE & GABBANA Leather wrap bracelet $175 L.G.R. Zanzibar havana round-frame sunglasses $345 8 5 MARC JACOBS Printed woven cotton shorts $175 6 SPERRY TOP-SIDER Gold cup leather boat shoes $135 6 D&G 58 SHE CANADA SHE CANADA 59 2 1 4 3 5 SmartSavvy 2014 Audi A6 TDI and In this day and age, technology has become so advanced that there is a gadget out there targeted to do just about anything. These simple and sleek products help us make our day to day lives just a little bit easier, whether it be a tracking device that prevents us from loosing our valuables or the latest DSLR camera that can capture impeccably sharp photographs at just the tip of our fingers. This summer is the perfect opportunity to test out these gadgets and see which suits your lifestyle. 6 60 SHE CANADA 1 Tinitell gps tracker for kids $99 2 Withings Oxygen monitor watch $120 3 sony A77 II camera $1200 4 EVERPURSE Phone charger purse $129 5 Whistle Dog activity monitor $129 6 tzukuri Trackable sunglasses $349 7 samsung NX mini camera $449 7 Base Price: $53,600 To put it simply, the A6 is a delight to drive. Its powerful, supercharged V6 motor and super-smooth eight-speed automatic transmission convey an invigorating force. Inside you’re given lavish, perfectly finished, top notch seating that is overflowing with the latest innovative hightech features. The interior of the vehicle pays attention to detail, along with the extra comfortable front seats.The A6 also offers many active-safety features including front and rear parking sensors, a top-view camera, blind-spot monitors, a night-vision system, and a head-up display. The allwheel drive is optional, with a rear-based torque split. Did we mention the optional in-car Wi-Fi? With the impeccable and considerable amount of features, the A6 is the car we have our eye on this summer. SHE CANADA 61 1 1 3 2 3 2 4 5 4 Grooming Tools That Every Man Needs 6 62 SHE CANADA 1 DR HARRIS Three pack almond oil soaps $35 2 PERRICONE MD Gentle Cleanser $35 3 JACK BLACK Deep dive glycolic facial cream $20 4 KENNETH COLE Mankind fragrance $72 5 L’OREAL Men expert hydra energetic turbo boost moisturizer $12.87 6 OLD SPICE shampoo and conditioner $7.99 From luscious hair to maintaining the perfect amount of scruff, SHE’s picks will keep your man looking dapper and at his best. Moisturizers and skin cleansers will soon be items he can’t live without. His grooming tools have never been more appealing – nor has he, after he uses them of course! Disclaimer: There is no guarantee that your significant other will turn into Jared Leto after the use of these products. 5 6 7 8 1 DOVE MEN+CARE Fresh awake face and body wash $4.72 2 DOVE MEN+CARE Anti dandruff fortifying shampoo $4.77 3 DOVE MEN+CARE Aqua impact deodorant $3.99 4 NIVEA FOR MEN Cool kick shaving gel $7.49 5 NIVEA FOR MEN Exfoliating Face Scrub $7.47 6 OLD SPICE body wash $10.99 7 GILLETTE Fusion proglide power razor $25.99 8 GILLETTE Clear gel antiperspirant $4.99 SHE CANADA 63 In the Cove By Shakirah Zaidi tied to my tail let go and it became loose. I was going to take a chance. I went very slowly to make sure I didn’t wake up the people in the boat. Soon, my tail was free. I heard orcas, dolphins, blue whales, and humpbacks crying. Soon, it was silent, and more red came from the cove. Illustrations by Fatima Zaidi. Colouring by Amna Zaidi. Chapter 1: January 8, 1989 6:00 a.m. The cove is a 2009 documentary film that dissects dolphin chasing practices in Japan. The film is a call to end mass dolphin executes, change Japanese practices, and to brief and instruct people in general about the dangers, and expanding risk, of mercury poisoning from dolphin meat. The film highlights the way that the amount of sea animals are killed and claims that 23,000 dolphins and whales are killed in Japan consistently by the nation’s whaling industry. The relocating dolphins are grouped into a cove where they are netted and executed by method of spears and blades over the sides of boats. This film, along with Blackfish, released in 2013, received wide recognition for their arguments in regards to whaling. Both documentaries have gone on the impact the public, most notably, the public who visits SeaWorld. SeaWorld recently suffered a 25% drop in profits shortly after Blackfish was released. Not only have these movies affected SeaWorld, but children, also. Inspired by the documentaries, nine-year-old Shakirah took to her pen and paper to write a touching short story. Read the remarkable short story written by an intelligent and young mind. 64 SHE CANADA Bang! Bang! Bang! I woke up to the sound of banging. I saw big, white poles in the distance. As I looked around I did not see my mom or dad. I couldn’t tell why the poles were here. I saw all the whales leaving. I could not see clearly from the salt water and sleep in my eyes. What was going on? I looked up, it was still dark on the Japanese ocean. I was about to swim and join my dolphin pod just as a few poles locked in place in the water. I was very scared of the loud noise. I poked my head around, this time most of the whales were all swimming away from the poles to one place. It looked like a netted cove. I tried to swim one way and five more white poles blocked me off. I looked around and every side of me was blocked. I was cornered. Chapter 2: Sunset When I awoke, I saw that I was near the cove. I tried to swim but I noticed I was netted to a boat. What stilled me was the red substance coming from the cove. I wanted to see what it was but when I saw people awake, they spoke in their language and reached out for me. They stuck a sharp stick thing in me and then the room went black. Chapter 3: Tunnels I stared around in the dark. I noticed on both my sides there were rocks. I think I’m in the cove, I thought. Again, I tried to swim but now my nose and tail were tied. Eventually it got very dark. Later, the people in the boat fell asleep. The one holding the rope that was Chapter 4: Tillicum When the boaters left, I was crying and moaning for some dolphins to come. Eventually, I gave up. I swam over the nets and left the horrific cove where whales died. Soon I heard other crying and moaning. I knew it wasn’t a dolphin cry. I followed it and soon saw a black and white blur. When I got closer I saw an orca moaning as well. He was my age (six months in human years and a teen in whale years). I asked him what his name was. “Tillicum,” he said. “Hi, I’m flipper,” I replied. “You mean you’re world famous?” “No, no, named after him. Come on, they’re coming again at night.” Chapter 5: Bang 8:00 p.m. We were at the bottom of the ocean. Tillicum was swishing his tail back and forth quietly. I told him I was scared but there was no answer. I looked and he was fast asleep. I fell asleep too as I hoped this crisis was all a bad dream. I was awoken with a loud, tail-piercing shriek. I looked for Tillicum. He was gone. Bang! I heard. I was in shock that it had happened again. Chapter 6: Cut Tail 12:00 a.m. I swam around and twisted in various ways to get to Tillicum. I got to the cove and I was too late. Tillicum swam over awkwardly with a trail of blood behind him. When we got back to our sleeping spot, I asked him what happened. “Th-they t-took me,” he stuttered, “a-and c-cut my t-tail.” As I looked at him I saw a big gash in his tail. “Wow. You could have died,” I said. “Y-you n-need to do something F-Flipper.” Chapter 7: Sunken I swam back to the cove and saw another dolphin limp out over the net trying to escape. He took a few breaths and then he sank. He didn’t come up again. Chapter 8: Swim! “Calm down Tilli, I will help you,” I said. I took a piece of seaweed and wrapped his tail with it. When I was done treating him we heard another bang. This time they took us in a boat and took us through the tunnels. We stopped in a big underwater cage. They put us to sleep again. When we awoke, I saw someone with a spear. “SWIM!” I screamed. We swam and swam and then we gave up. They caught us and put us in the boat again. After a few hours, they dropped us in a pool. Chapter 9: SeaWorld When we arrived, they gave us food and then started yelling. “Jump!” he yelled, We jumped, He gave us a sardine. “Wave!”, he said if I waved I would get another sardine. It carried on until night. I heard the humans call what we were doing “practice”. Chapter 10: Parents When we woke up, I wanted to see what the people were up to. When we checked, I could see through the bushes to the inside of the cove. I saw the Japanese people were about to stick a spear in a dolphin and in an orca. “That’s my mom!” I said. “That’s my dad!” said Tillicum. As we watched the horrific scene, more and more blood came from the cove. When the people left the cove we swam over and nudged our parents. Seeing them, we could not bear their pain. When the people came back we swam off but we could see still the Japanese people fill our parents’ stomachs up with rocks and sunk them to the bottom of the cove. Chapter 11: Escape Year 1990 We’ve been in captivity for a year now. It is horrible. Tillicum’s tail is infected. I am cut on my side and we are in a pool. Compared to the ocean, it is like a bathtub. “We got to get out of here, Flipper.” “Light bulb,” I said, “Tilli you jump your highest and I will whip my tail against the wall. It will break and we can leave.” We did as planned and escaped. “Flipper!” as I got pulled back at motor boat speed. As Tillicum swam after me, he got caught too. The Japanese people took us to a place that was called SeaLand. It sounded the same but the pool was actually the size of a bathtub. They put us in the pool and I could not move my tail. I tried to swim but could not. I wailed and moaned. I had a tail cramp. Tillicum did the same thing; he had a fin cramp. I had more to come from my horrific day. Chapter 12: Caught Chapter 16: Suicide We swam out and went to our sleeping hole. Then they caught us. This time they separated us into different pools. I moaned for Tilli, but he didn’t answer. That night I heard the banging and I knew what would happen. More death, more extinction, more killing. I am fed up. I am being tortured and I am suffering. As someone tried to take me out of the pool, I took a few breaths and let myself die in the vet’s arms. Chapter 13: Goodbye Tillicum was talking to Flipper and there was no answer. He looked over and Flipper was dead. Tillicum wailed and screamed for Flipper. The vet heard this and had to leave. When the Japanese people saw how Tillicum was acting, they knew this didn’t feel right. They then released him into the wild. When the people came over to my pool, they said, “say goodbye to Tillicum, he’s going to the cove, he’s too slow.” When all the Japanese people left, I made my move. I jumped over the wall and swam over to the cove. I saw a spear with blood dripping from it. I moaned and cried but Tillicum came out. I was puzzled. I swam to the cove and one person had a spear in their throat. Chapter 14: They’re Back As we swam back to the spot we slept in, I felt like I had a string stuck to my tail again. As I looked back, there was nothing there. As we swam on, it happened again. I dared to look back and I saw a flash of human skin as it dragged me back. Chapter 15: This is the End “Tillicum!” I screamed. He looked behind him and screamed, Chapter 17: Sadness Chapter 18: End Tillicum jumped over the wall and was free. The next time Tillicum heard banging, it was just from construction breaking down SeaWorld. The End. Although there is a worldwide ban on whaling, there are still illegal practices that go on. Whales are continuously tortured, captured and killed. To help put an end to this, become a member of Save The Whales. Your membership and donations help the non-profit organization continue their efforts to care for and save the whales. Visit www.savethewhales.org for more information. SHE CANADA 65 SHE Debates: Lack of beauty skin tones in T he other day my friend told me, “You’re so pretty.” I smiled and replied, “Thank you! You’re gorgeous yourself.” “But I’m not as fair as you.” That made me frown. Why did the lightness of my skin dictate my attractiveness? Why did the darkness of my friend’s skin make her any less beautiful than me? After all, we are both Pakistani girls. The next part made my heart fall into the pit of my stomach. She asked me about products to make her skin as fair as mine. She would not have to search very hard. There are countless cosmetic products that are marketed as “dark-spot” correctors for white women and skin brightener for women of colour (WOC). It is as if the dark spot on our faces is our actual skin tone. Many female celebrities of different ethnic backgrounds are airbrushed to look fairer. There is even a deodorant that lightens the colour of underarms! Apparently underarms are not tortured enough by hot wax, lasers and sharp razors on regular basis, now they have to 66 SHE CANADA By Faria Jafri be whiter. The Star reports, in 2015 the skin-bleaching industry’s profits will reach $10 billion USD according to the market research firm Global Industry Analysts. One particular brand that has been widely criticized lately is Fair & Lovely. The commercials begin with a dark-toned woman of colour that is unhappy. She is introduced to the Fair & Lovely skin bleaching cream. The next scene is a fade-out of how her dark skin becomes fairer as she continues using the cream. She is magically transformed into a fair-skinned woman that is now deemed beautiful by society, who can finally get a man and be successful in her career. Only now is she allowed to be happy. This is Shadeism. Shadeism is a prevalent form of internalized racism. Since the colonization of African, South Asian and Caribbean nations, fairness has become an advantage. If a person of colour had light skin-tone, they physically appeared to be closer to the white, ruling race. This meant they were superior. The darker a racialized person was the more they were associated with slavery. Through media, this status symbol then evolved into a beauty ideal. In South Asian cultures, brides-to-be are often told to stay away from the sun during the days approaching the wedding. They are also masked with “haldi”, a turmeric paste, which is a natural skin bleacher. This is done so that on the day of celebration she would appear to be glowing. Recently, the graceful Lupita Nyong’o addressed the issue of Shadeism when she made a speech at Essence’s 7th annual Black Women in Hollywood about dark-skin and beauty. Despite the compelling speech, Nyong’o became the face of Lancôme. While it is very progressive that Lancôme is addressing the issue of lack of WOC in the beauty industry, one of their products is a skin brightening cream. Another unfortunate fact is that Lancôme does not even sell cosmetics that are for women with Lupita’s skin tone. Although the signing of Lupita can be assumed to be a typical marketing gimmick, this attempt could be the beginning of a more inclusive beauty industry. There are many ways to measure beauty – strength, grace, love, kindness, intelligence, leadership, success, etc. – skin shade should not be one of those ways. SHE CANADA 67 T he economic situation in the Palestinian West Bank is becoming desperate. Due to the political situation in the region, economic activities are at an all-time low and unemployment is on the rise. Even people who are employed suffer as their employers, notably the Palestinian National Authority, are unable to pay their salaries. It is estimated that presently 65 percent of the population in the West Bank lives in poverty. This means hidden starvation, especially for families who already were poor before the current economic recession and do not have reserves to fall back on. Families headed by a woman and without a male breadwinner, the sick and the elderly are hit hardest. Most Palestinian families are large. In some regions, the average family comprises no less than nine members, most of them children of school age, who all rely on a sole breadwinner. Humanitarian Relief Society (HRS), a Palestinian humanitarian organization active in the West Bank, especially in Arroub refugee camp, therefore proposes to distribute a 20-kg sack of rice to 350 extremely poor families. Rice is the main staple of the Palestinian diet and is eaten for lunch and frequently dinner. Most families cannot afford to purchase a sack of rice and resort to buying small quantities on a daily basis. Little money remains to purchase other ingredients of a nutritious meal, for example vegetables, cooking oil and meat. Eating only or mainly carbohydrates leads to malnutrition in the long run, 68 SHE CANADA especially among children, who need all kinds of nutrients to grow and develop healthily. A family who has a sack of rice will be able to spend its daily cash supply on other food items and will thus eat sufficiently and have a more balanced diet. A sack of rice will enable family providers to adequately feed their families for a month or more. Assuming an average family size of seven, which is a conservative estimate in Palestine, 2,450 people will benefit from this project, at least two thirds of them children. A mere four Euro are sufficient to improve a person’s nutrition for a whole month. Dear LFT donors: When you sit down for your daily meals, think of those who look at an empty table and have to go to bed hungry. By giving a small part of what you spend on food every month, you can significantly improve their lives. To Donate or Get Involved Contact: September Lodge, Village Way, Little Chalfont Buckinghamshire HP7 9PU The Lady Fatemah Charitable Trust is one of the first charities to use its own unique text code, LFCT14, to raise funds by using JustTextGiving, a service available to Vodafone subscribers internationally. In the spirit of the LFT, this is a new service which has no set up or associated costs for the LFT and every penny donated via text goes directly to the LFT. Once your donation has gone through, you can also add Gift Aid to the donation, which we recommend as it gives us an extra 25% on your donation. For more success stories and information about how to donate, please visit: http://www.ladyfatemahtrust.org/ [email protected] Tel: +44 (0) 1494 762 063 Fax: +44 (0) 1494 762 286 Mob: +44 (0) 7798 761 020 / +44 (0) 7798 769 030 SHE CANADA 69 ing physically closer to donors) for the continuation of the project. We have members and partners in Kabul who are interested in the project and have helped us in its design. What does the CAC offer in terms of services? The Afghanistan & Central Asian Association Citizen’s Advice Centre in Afghanistan D By Priya Kumar ays before this issue was set to go to print a German member of the Associated Press was shot dead and her Canadian colleague critically wounded in the attack on the eve of Afghanistan’s elections. Anja Niedringhaus, 48, a Pulitzer Prize winning photographer and Kathy Gannon, a reporter for the AP from Timmins, ON, were on assignment in the outskirts of Khost in Tani district. While a tragic day for Canadians, Germans and the journalism profession as a whole, this is one of the few cherrypicked stories the western media will report on leading up to the election. Not to make light in any way of the terror these two brave women endured that day, it is also important to shed some light on what everyday Afghanistani’s are going through during this politically tumultuous time. It is for this reason we at SHE felt it necessary to report both on our fallen compatriots and Afghan nationals. I recently had the chance to catch-up with Dr. Nooralhaq Nasimi, Director of the Afghanistan & Central Asian Association. The ACAA aims to assist new Afghanistanis to the UK by offering free 70 SHE CANADA advice, English classes, CV workshops and legal advice. Recently the ACAA received a grant from the UK government funding a similar project to empower Afghanistanis in Kabul and Pul-e Khumri. Dr. Nasimi was visiting Afghanistan during the electoral period and had the following to say about the Citizen’s Advice Centres: What led to the decision to launch the Citizen’s Advice Centres in Kabul and Pul-e Khumri? To provide free, impartial legal advice to the vulnerable groups of society which mainly include women, children and those struck by poverty and to offer employment opportunities for local residents and to create volunteering opportunities for university students who are willing to gain work experience. These two cities are where poverty along with unemployment have reached very high levels in recent years. Statistics gathered by international organizations have shown that Kabul and Pul-e-Khumri are cities with rapidly increasing populations. I also grew up in Pul-e-Khumri and therefore have a good understanding and impression of the city and its surroundings as well the area itself and wanted to offer something helpful back to citizens living there. Finally, it’s also important to transfer a positive and important aspect of British society into Afghanistan. Why Kabul and Pul-e Khumri? We have chosen Pul-e Khumri because despite being a city there are still extremes of poverty and inequality is high. As in other cities there are large numbers of people living on land not recognised by municipalities who do not receive basic services from the state. As a provincial city we hope to build closer links with the local authorities and community leaders. It is traditionally an industrial city and we thought this could make it a good environment for providing business advice and services as infrastructure is already in place. We chose Kabul because despite being the capital there are still extremes of poverty in Kabul and inequality. Women do not seem to play as active a role in the active population as you might expect. There are high numbers of returning refugees and IDPs who need assistance to stay out of poverty. Working in the capital will help us make contact with a larger number of other NGOs and service providers and will help us fundraise (in terms of be- Citizens’ Advice Centres provides free, impartial, confidential advice on a wide range of issues and services identified by vulnerable groups as impacting poverty in Kabul and Baghlan provinces. We run training and advice sessions at the Centre, including health professionals, business men and women, local offices of the Ministry of Labour, Social Affairs, Martyrs and the Disabled (MoLSAMD), Ministry of Women, the Afghan Human Rights Commission etc. Volunteering opportunities are uncommon in Afghanistan, especially for undergraduate and post-graduate students who are looking for work experience. We offer an environment where they can gain a little experience prior to entering the workforce. Has there been any political resistance to the CAC? Thankfully, we have not encountered any political resistance; with the elections, we are unsure if the situation will change. Who benefits most from the Centres? The Centres are open to everyone, regardless of ethnicity, religion or gender. However, those who are most vulnerable in society, which include women (widows), children (orphans), individuals with special needs and those living in poverty, are our targets. SHE CANADA 71 Health & Wellness Health & Wellness Whenever you feel that you don’t have time for yoga, it is exactly when you should not stop. flexibility level is not a constraint. T yoga201 By: Maria Pospelova here are various debates as to whether Dostoevsky used to practice yoga; yet, this article is not about that. Overwhelmed, by the increasing trend of an amateur yoga practice in North America, you, at last, had been convinced to give this “workout” a try. There is variety of potential paths for one to discover yoga. Perhaps, someone dragged you along for the first complimentary class, or it was part of a team building company event, or you took it for fun as part of your gym membership that one night instead of a crazy intense bootcamp class. You might have been “prescribed” yoga by a chiropractor or psychologist after an injury, or participated in a fun pre-engagement party of your friend’s sister. Either way, by your will or not, yoga has eventually found its the way into your life. And here you are, an enthusiastic newbie, who has successfully finished a class, or two, or the whole month of them. Intimidating and unusual at first, yoga practice has seduced you. Strangely enough, no matter how much 72 SHE CANADA you did enjoy the “aftertaste” feeling in your body and mind, and agree that yoga does have health benefits, one is still likely to come across the challenge of sticking with it, and making yoga a part of a daily/weekly routine, budget, and schedule. Whichever stage of a yoga discovery you might be at right now, here are some encouraging facts that might help you to keep going strong with your beginner practice, and enjoy the benefits of yoga longterm. EXCUSE: “Duh, I am not flexible”. REALITY: Flexibility is not a requirement to participating in a yoga practice. In fact, an improved flexibility is more of a side effect to a regular practice, rather than a prerequisite. Being hungry doesn’t discourage you to get food, and being not clean enough doesn’t stop you from showering. One’s EXCUSE: “It is too expensive.” REALITY: Yes, yoga can be costly. Drop-in rates seem to provide the worst value per class. On the contrary, commitment to a practice and a purchase of an unlimited pass can lower your cost to be as little as couple of dollars per class when attending regularly. Various studios in Toronto offer amazing discounted intro packages, complimentary classes, classes by donations and outdoor community classes. Paying attention to how much money we spend on the unhealthy habits such as cigarettes, impulse shopping and weekly beer can also be helpful while figuring out a yoga budget. fears, and limiting beliefs it takes someone in order to do a certain pose. Focusing on your own breath, practicing compassion and patience for your body on the mat, eventually will result in successfully balancing physically challenging poses. EXCUSE: “Hot class is not for me, ashtanga is too challenging, yin class is boring, and why would I pay for a restorative class if I can nap at home?” REALITY: One size does not fit all. There are at least 10 different yoga styles offered in a city as big as Toronto. Exploring what your physical body needs at the moment is key. Yoga is a unique physical practice that combines working on strength and flexibility. Each style focuses more on the one or the other. Having fun while exploring the effects each practice has on your body and mind, you might be able to find at least one yoga style to fall in love with, and that you won’t be able to imagine your life without in the future. I kindly encourage you to enrich you life with memorable, intriguing moments, expanding personal boundaries, and step out of your comfort zone. True enjoyment comes from being present in the moment, non-attachment to the result, as well as the ability to be comfortable in being silly and vulnerable. May you all have an amazing journey of self-discovery while sticking with your yoga practice. Namaste. EXCUSE: “I don’t have time for this.” REALITY: Living and working in a busy city is extremely demanding physically, emotionally, and mentally. When I was in university, I used to take discounted yoga classes at the student union yoga club. The closer and closer we got to the midterm week, the emptier the classroom would get. I will never forget the line the teacher gave us: “Whenever you feel that you don’t have time for yoga, it is exactly when you should not stop”. The truth is, the busier your life becomes, the more you need to try and find time to reconnect with your breath, body, and check in with your thoughts. EXCUSE: “I am not good enough, everyone is looking, it is embarrassing.” REALITY: The truth is, when we just begin our journey with yoga, we naturally compare ourselves to everyone in the room. Sometimes success of others inspires us, and other times seeing someone standing on their head can feel discouraging when you are the only person that can’t even reach for your ankles. It is important to remember that most classes welcome all levels. You have no idea how many years of physical and internal practice of working with personal SHE CANADA 73 4 2 1 3 5 1 kids Corner 10 3 Basics for babies Free your children of post-school boredom and inactivity with these quick fixes for summer. You’ll be glad you did. 5 6 Buying adorable items for babies just became even more fun. Head to your next baby shower with these gifts that will go easy on your credit card. The products are cute, and so are the prices. 6 1 POTTERY BARN Personalized fairfax grey striped duffle bag $27.50 2 POTTERY BARN Shaggy head sleeping bag $89 3 INDIGO Ticket to ride board game $59.95 4 WALMART Monopoly empire $24.93 5 TOYS R US Lego The Hobbit $34.99 1 6 INDIGO Percy Jackson five book box set $23.10 Pottery Barn Nursery critter wraps $29.99 2 7 TOYS R US Razor ripster $49.97 johnson & Johnson`s Head-to-toe wash $7.77 3 TOYS R US F5 Flow Series scooter $179.99 Johnson & Johnson`s Vanilla oatmeal baby lotion $4.97 8 4 SPORT CHEK Louisville slugger fastpitch glove $59.99 Babies R Us Bath spout cover $12.99 9 5 ORAL B Pro health stages Disney baby toothbrush $2.99 6 BED BATH & BEYOND Boon frog pod bath storage basket $24.99 7 CATERPILLAR Baby best bottom diaper package $88.65 8 THE BAY Sophie giraffe bath toy $18.00 9 BABIES R US Spa silk hooded towel set $14.99 4 7 8 10 SPORT CHEK World Cup soccer ball $29.99 9 2 8 10 INDIGO GARDEN Party squirties $16.50 9 10 7 74 SHE CANADA SHE CANADA 75 Introducing the New Faces of Maybelline Maybelline New York recently announced not one, but two new spokeswomen for their brand. Both women embody the Maybelline New York woman’s spirit and passion for makeup. Dutch model Marloes Horst and British model Jourdun Dunn have been added to the list of the makeup brand’s list of prominent and iconic spokespeople and we’ve got the latest on these glamorous ladies. Jourdan Dunn By: Anna Bandi ON FASHION AND BEAUTY Have you always been passionate about fashion? I enjoyed dressing up as most young girls do. It wasn’t until I really got into the business that I started to appreciate what it takes to create fashion. What gives you confidence in your job as a model and in life? Music. Empowering music uplifts your spirit and makes you feel good especially when it’s created by strong , confident women. How do you define “beauty”? What makes a woman beautiful? How would you describe your fashion taste? I’m not really a “girly girl”. However, most people usually picture me wearing a dress because I wear high fashion pieces when I’m shooting. But, I’m most comfortable wearing jeans, a blouse and a blazer. What gives you confidence in your job as a model and in life? I have always had a strong personality. I feel that having a strong belief in yourself is something you need not only as a model, but is very important in everyday life. Best tips you have learned from the pros? Beauty is confidence and self-awareness. To be beautiful, you have to know who you are on the inside. Beauty is kindness and respect for both yourself and others. Makeup is best used to enhance what you already have with the right touch in the right place it can be truly transformative in how you feel. What makeup items do you always have with you? Who is your beauty icon? Lip balm, eyebrow gel and concealer. Bridgitte Bardot. I feel like she embodied everything a woman is and should be. What does it mean to be a Maybelline New York spokesperson? It is an honour to be a spokesperson for such an iconic brand. I am proud to say that I am a Maybelline girl and hopefully I can make people feel the same way I did when I saw the advertisements growing up. The brand imagery is always beautiful and positive. To now be a part of that is a dream come true! What does “born with it” mean to you? 76 SHE CANADA ON FASHION AND BEAUTY Being a model has opened up a whole new world for me. I have learned how to use products and which colors work best for my skin tone. It is a lot of fun because every makeup artist has his or her own special way of working, so I get to see a lot of different techniques. Ultimately, the best tip I’ve learned from the pros is to play around with products to find your favorite colors and textures. There is so much out there, have fun with it! ON THE MAYBELLINE NEW YORK BRAND British model Jourdan Dunn is no stranger to the spotlight, walking the runway for prestigious brands such as Marc Jacobs, Ralph Lauren and Prada. She started her modeling career at the young age of 16 and now at 23 she continues to dominate in the modeling world, scoring high profile contracts with Victoria’s Secret and now Maybelline New York. Marloes Horst It’s a reminder that we are all born with a special quality that makes us individual and uniquely beautiful. What are your favourite Maybelline New York products? I love Color Sensational lipsticks. I like to mix Nude Lust and Storm Sahara to create the perfect nude lip. And of course, Great Lash mascara is my all-time favourite! ON THE MAYBELLINE NEW YORK BRAND What does it mean to be a Maybelline New York Spokesperson? Maybelline New York is such a huge and iconic brand that makes women look and feel beautiful, and I am very honored to be a part of it. What was the first Maybelline New York product you ever used? I love the Fit Me foundation. A makeup artist applied it on me at a shoot once and I’ve been using it ever since. It has a lovely texture which works very well with my skin. What are your favourite Maybelline New York products? Next to the foundation, I love the mascaras. Right now I’m using the Rocket for volume and smoothness. It doesn’t give you any clumps! I am also in love with Color Sensation The Buffs lipsticks; they give the perfect finishing touch for a natural look. Signed to one of the biggest modeling agencies, Next Model Management, Marloes Horst is starting to make a name for herself in the fashion industry. The face of several advertising campaigns including, Emporio Armani, DKNY and Kenzo, Horst is a supermodel on the rise. Becoming the newest addition to the Maybelline family will raise her status and make her a prominent model in the industry. SHE CANADA 77 1 1 3 2 4 2 8 7 5 6 3 9 Bronze Summer SPlash 4 5 GODDESS Embrace your summer tan with these products that are sure to enhance your natural glow. We’ve got you covered in the office and on a night out! 6 7 78 SHE CANADA 1 LANCOME Star bronzer palette $35 2 LAURA MERCIER Tinted moisturizer $55 3 COVERGIRL Copper radiance bronzer $6.99 4 MAKE UP FOR EVER Diamond powder $30 5 ESTEE LAUDER Bronze goddess powder $40 6 ESTEE LAUDER Pure color sizzling copper eyeshadow $25 7 COVERGIRL Shadow coffee $6.47 8 MAC Ruffian gold glitter lipstick $19 Whether you’re laying by the pool, or hitting the town - you’ve come to the right place. Keep your skin and your hair healthy, happy and primped with our favourite products to use in the summertime. 8 1 COVERGIRL Lipslicks smoochies lip balm $4.97 2 L’OREAL Telescopic Precision Waterproof Liquid Eyeliner $9.99 3 OLAY Fresh effects moisturizer $11.49 4 MAKE UP FOR EVER Diamond powder $30 5 PANTENE Pro V moisture conditioner $6.99 6 PANTENE Pro V hair treatment $12.47 7 L’OREAL Sublime sun advanced sunscreen SPF 50+ liquid silk $10.99 8 CLINIQUE Pore refining solutions stay-matte hydrator $36 9 REVLON Colorburst lip butter $7.97 10 SECRET Fresh effects body mist $4.99 10 Health & Wellness Backstage at WORLD MASTERCARD FASHION WEEK with Maybelline By: Harpreet Brar Saying Goodbye It was a snowy day in March, but ‘the show must go on’, right? While the outdoors were frozen and still, inside the doors of World MasterCard Fashion Week, it was just heating up. SHE had their backstage pass ready to look at models preparing and being primped by Maybelline New York’s lead makeup artist in Canada, Grace Lee for VAWK at WMCFW. The Canadian brand founded in Toronto by Sunny Fong, VAWK can be described as equal parts modern femininity and timeless beauty.. From lip prep to foundation to nails, each surface of a model is painted with a specific end goal to guarantee that the vision of a designer is exact. It's no basic errand – here's a glance at what happened backstage, and how Lee transforms a dream into the beautiful walking canvases that are these models. 80 SHE CANADA In the United States, the cosmetic industry generated an estimated total revenue of 54.89 billion U.S. dollars (2012). In this industry, where we pursue our perfect skin and colours, are a number of shadowy ingredients and practices. Aveda Corporations and Intelligent Nutrients founder, Horst Rechelbacher, dedicated his life’s work to combat these questionable practices and to develop his own line of organic products while using sustainable practices. At the age of 72, Rechelbacher passed away in his home, leaving his two children, Peter and Nicole, and life partner Kiran Stordalen. I n commemoration of Horst Rechelbacher, we recognize the loss of an industry’s innovator, visionary, and true crusader. On February 15, 2014 Rechelbacher passed away from pancreatic cancer at his Wisconsin home. His life’s work had been dedicated to the pursuit of natural and safe beauty products, as well as the incorporation of sustainability in business. His legacy endures through Aveda corporations and the hundreds of “would-be sustainable” businesses to which he had inspired. Rechelbacher was born in Klagenfurt, Austria, to an herbalist and a shoe designer/maker. At the age of fourteen, he left school to apprentice as a hairdresser. He traveled to numerous cities like Rome, London, New York, and Minneapolis for hairstyling competitions. While competing in Florida, Rechelbacher conceptualized a natural hair product line that would later be known as “Aveda”. During the same year, he was reminded of his childhood SHE CANADA 81 interest in herbal medicine after he had attended a lecture on Ayuvedic medicine. He later spent six months in India learning the tradition that would become part of Aveda’s framework. In 1978, Rechelbacher opened his first hair salon in Minneapolis. His salon expanded into a small chain known as Horst & Friends. He then expanded his salon brand. Aveda grew into a lifestyle brand and became a global movement for the encouragement of a balanced life. In 1997, Rechelbacher sold Aveda to Estee Lauder Co. for $300 million. Aveda is based in Minnesota and continues to identify itself as a company that offers naturally derived beauty products. For example, Aveda acquires its ayurvedic herbs from an Indian firm called Nisarga. The firm uses non-toxic methods, the use of carbon dioxide at low temperatures, to obtain extracts. Aveda prides itself in offering organic products and being able to trace their certified organic ingredients. Their standardized definition of “naturally derived” ingredients requires that more than fifty percent of the molecule come from natural sources. Aveda also identifies itself as a company that is committed to sustainable practices. The company is involved with numerous programs that help support communities that produce their products. For instance, Aveda has committed itself to partnering with the Yawanawa for their production of urukum (a palm seed that is harvested for its red pigment). Aveda has been working to reestablish and strengthen the traditional Yawanawa culture along the Amazon River in Brazil. Aveda’s efforts also extend to local environs. Not only have they denounced the use of animal testing but they have also campaigned for its termination in the beauty industry. On other fronts, they have funded projects that support the quality of life 82 SHE CANADA for animals. For instance they have funded animal relief efforts following natural disasters, including Animal Humane Society in the wake of Hurricane Katrina and the National Wildlife Federation after the Gulf Oil Disaster. In the past decade, Aveda has raised $8 million for grassroots organizations that protect endangered animals and the surrounding environment. To help maintain the environment, Aveda has been involved in projects that are designed to reduce packaging waste and use renewable energy. They began by being the first privately held company to sign the Ceres Principles in 1989. To fulfill these sustainable principles, Aveda works to minimize their packaging and maximize their use of recyclable and post-consumer recycled materials. With their use the most environmentally sound materials and as much post-consumer recycled content as commercially as possible, they claim to save the use of six hundred tons of virgin plastic each year. To lower their environmental impact even further, Aveda purchases wind generated electricity to power primary manufacturing facility, company headquarters, and the Aveda Institute in Minneapolis. They also invest in Native Energy’s Help Build projects, which provide funding for the long-term development of new sources of renewable energy including wind energy. In total, Aveda has raised over $18 million USD for environmental and social causes. To acknowledge their dedication and practice, Aveda was the first beauty company in the world to receive Cradle-to-Cradle (C2C) sustainability endorsement. After selling Aveda, Rechelbacher started another company called Intelligent Nutrients. This company specialized in organic, nontoxic health and beauty products. Rechelbacher grew many of the ingredients on his 570 acres farm and retreat centre in Osceola, Wisconsin. He fought to make the products USDA certified organic. Rechelbacher was a strong opponent of “green washing” within the cosmetic industry. The term refers to the misleading marketing claim of companies that use the word “organic’’ without certification. Therefore, along with his new company, Rechelbacher continued his pursuits to raise public awareness of carcinogenic ingredients found in beauty supplies. In 2004, Rechelbacher helped finance the “Campaign for Safe Cosmetics”. The Campaign recently helped persuade Johnson & Johnson to remove two ingredients linked to cancer from its baby shampoo, including formaldehyde and 1, 4 dioxine. Rechelbacher is considered to have been a “game-changer” in the world of beauty products. As a result of Aveda’s commitment to eliminate toxic chemicals from its products, not only did he bring sustainability to mass marketed products but he also enlarged the market for so-called natural cosmetics. Geoffrey Jones, Harvard Business School professor and author, said that Rachelbacher made natural cosmetics relevant in the American market. Although the idea of organic cosmetics did not originate with Rechelbacher as it has been manufactured since the late 1950s by firms like Yves Rocher, Rechelbacher had helped in making “natural health and beauty products fashionable and the fastest growing sector of the industry”. As a result of this growth, the issue of “green washing” became quite rampant throughout the beauty industry. Peter Melchett, Soil Association policy director, highlighted a number of harmful chemicals found in beauty products that were labelled as ‘organic’ and ‘natural’. Some of these ingredients can be found in antifreeze and cleaners. The root of the issue being that there is a lack of regulation. In the United States, the FDA does not have the authority to regulate beauty products. Campaign for Safe Cosmetics cofounder, Stacy Malkan, stated that there are no guarantees that the ingredients are safe. She also stated that due to a lack of legal standards, companies often use it as a marketing term. To counter this issue, US Representatives Jan Schakwosky and Edward Markey introduced Safe Cosmetics and Personal Care Products Act of 2013. The proposed act would have strengthened FDA oversight; phase out ingredients linked to cancer, infertility, and developmental problems; require full ingredients disclosure; as well as give authority to FDA to recall dangerous products. However, this act encountered serious opposition from leaders within the beauty industry. In Canada, Health Canada is responsible for regulating cosmetics under the Food and Drug Act and the Cosmetic Regulations. In 2004, “Canada’s Cosmetic Regulations” were updated to require manufacturers to list ingredients on retail packaging. Even though manufacturers are required to disclose the concentration of each ingredient to the Minister of Health, it is not easily accessible for the public. Furthermore, manufacturers have until ten days after the product’s release to notify Health Canada. Canada’s cosmetic labelling and notification requirements do not apply to unintentional ingredients, like by-products and impurities. Additionally, manufacturers are not routinely required to perform pre-market testing of used chemicals. In 2012, the David Suzuki Foundation initiated a survey to investigate the prevalence of twelve chemicals (BHA/BHT, coal tar dyes, DEA related ingredients, dibutyl phthalate, formaldehyde, parabens, parfum, PEG compounds, petrolatum, siloxanes, sodium laureth sulfate, triclosan) in products that Canadians normally use. The results revealed that 80% of submitted products contained at least one of the Dirty Dozen Ingredients. Furthermore, each product contained an average number of 1.9 ingredients. Over the course of his journey, Rechelbacher has been honoured with a number of awards that recognize his devotion to safe products and environmentally friendly practices. One award included the Rachel Carson Award for Lifetime Commitment to Environmental Ethics and Integrity. We experience the loss and void of his passing. Rechelbacher could not witness the end of “green washing”, but the movement for safe beauty products and sustainability in the beauty industry continues forward -- the mark, the legacy, the gift Horst Rechelbacher has given. SHE CANADA 83 Best private label launch: L’Occitane La Collection de Grasse NINTH Annual Canadian Fragrance Awards O By Harpreet Brar n a breathtaking spring day, the ninth annual Canadian Fragrance Awards were held in Toronto at the Arcadian Court. Hosted by Cosmetics Magazine, the venue was nothing short of superb. Finalists and winners of the men’s and women’s fragrances launched in 2013 were celebrated, with over 350 leaders in the fragrance industry in Canada. Each winner received a beautiful Art Deco award. It was learned that judging for the Canadian Fragrance Awards isn’t so simple. To begin, the panel of judges get together to review the submissions and finalists are selected utilizing the set criteria known as: fragrance, launch, advertising, PR, and sales. It’s apparent what the brand does promotionally and in-store is exceptionally prominent. Once this is accomplished, the ballot featuring the finalists is sent out to 260 members in the industry and 1200 beauty advisors. This is when they vote for their favourite fragrance in each of the 11 categories and submit it to Cosmetics Magazine for organization. Then, the 26 judges meet once more to review the votes and pick a winner in each category. Without further ado, read along to see if your favourite scent is amongst the 2014 winners. 84 SHE CANADA Best limited launch women’s: Michael Kors Sporty, Sexy, Glam Best niche launch (men or women): Carven Le Parfum Best luxe launch (men or women) + Judge’s choice: Marni Eau de Parfum Best full-market launch women’s prestige: Marc Jacobs Honey Men’s Hall of Fame: Paco Rabanne Pour Homme Women’s Hall of Fame: Calvin Klein Eternity SHE CANADA 85 2 1 Bring 3 Summer This season, candles and air fresheners are the way to go to bring that fresh summery scent into your home. If smelling clean isn’t enough, exude your cleanliness with our top-rated products here. You can thank us later. 4 5 86 SHE CANADA inside your Home 8 9 1 DOWNY Infusions liquid softener $6.94 2 TIDE BOOST Stain release $9.99 3 GAIN Moonlight breeze flings 3-in-1 detergent $4.44 4 FEBREZE Thai dragon fruit scented candle $7.99 5 MR. CLEAN Magic eraser $4.99 6 THE GOOD HOME Lavender vacuum beads $20 7 FEBREZE NOTICEables Mediterranean lavender $4.98 8 GLADE Blushing berry scented oil refillable candle $7.99 9 THE GOOD HOME Beach days scented candle $25 6 7 SHE CARES Syria SHE Canada recognizes the intensifying violence that is consuming the nation of Syria and the precious lives that are constantly being taken away in the midst of the viciousness. About 50% of all Syrian refugees are children or adolescents. Due to the traumatic events in Syria, these kids are powerless and in need of water, food, and shelter. We want to help. Large portions of these children have seen their brothers, their sisters and their parents become injured and harmed. In the wake of seeing such terror, some children end up becoming withdrawn. They urgently require psychological support alongside clean water, food and medication. It is estimated that 2.4 million Syrians have fled to neighbouring countries with high hopes to live safely. SHE Canada is now accepting donations to help those in Syria in their time of need. Funds raised will go towards food, water, shelter, and support for victims. Lend a helping hand to all Syrians and their children today by sending donations to: [email protected]. 88 SHE CANADA SHE CANADA 89 90 SHE CANADA SHE CANADA 91 Book Review Brown Girl Problems The Fishing Fleet, Husband-Hunting in the Raj BY Anne de Courcy Review by Priya Kumar The British Raj created all sorts of social pockets and diasporas. Perhaps the most intriguing were the boatloads of eligible young debutantes from Britain looking to make a good match among the well-paid officers in the Indian Civil Service (ICS). Practically starved (on both sides of the ocean) of suitable matches during the Imperial rule of South Asia, British women were paid to make the treacherous journey overseas to make a good match. But as the trend caught on and the Suez Canal opened—making the trip quicker and safer—soon the Raj was able to charge a hefty sum to put these young ingénues up. The experiences these women had in British India (which then included Pakistan, Bangladesh, Burma and Sri Lanka) were akin to a chapter out a Louis Carroll novel. While many of them achieved what they set out to do and headed home with a husband in tow, some of the women covered in the novel were third and fourth generation Britons. Of these, the most intriguing were members of the AngloIndian (or Eurasian) community that formed by the British soldiers 92 SHE CANADA I’ve always been a little more on the heavier side. I’ve never bothered to do anything about it but lately I’ve been going to the gym and I actually enjoy the feeling it gives me. I’ve started to see results and I know I could do better if it wasn’t for my diet. I live with my parents and my mother always insists that I eat her food. No matter how greasy or fattening, she sees nothing wrong with it as long as her children are fed. I assume this is what has assisted with my weight gain over the years and every time I try to eat healthier, my mother gets upset by saying I’m not eating enough. How do I take control of making my own meals without worrying her? is aware that this is something I do not want. Am I just going to have to deal with this enormous crowd? Dear Wannabe Health Freak, Now here’s the correct answer: your wedding is really not about you, it’s for your family to throw the most elaborate fête of their entire lives in celebration of you. If Bank of Dad is managing your wedding budget, the level of ostentation is up to him. Of course you should have some control over the guest list, but at the end of the day your parents have been looking forward to your wedding perhaps longer than you have. Lots of people are not necessarily a bad thing; the more the merrier could never ring truer than your big day. Go with the flow at the wedding itself by keeping your good friends close by. You will want to see a familiar face after the barrage of well-wishes from aunties and uncles who remember when you when you were only four years old. Anne de Courcy recounts the time between the late 17th century and 1930s when these women, known almost humorously as the “Fishing Fleet”, were sent across to British India on an adventure of a lifetime. The novel covers every detail from the pests they would have endured—“Lady Canning remarked that her dinner table in Calcutta ‘was covered in creatures as thickly as a drawer of them in a museum’. Sometimes floors seemed alive with beetles; Lady Canning described huge cockroaches (‘as big as mice’) in her bedroom, ‘some moving away, side by side, like pairs of coach horses’,”—to the level of opulence they experienced unique to the Raj. “[The maharajas’] palaces, their clothes, their jewels, their retinues, the gold and silver trappings of their state elephants, the largesse they showered on fortunate guests, seemed to sum up everything that was meant by the phrase ‘the gorgeous East’,” opens the chapter on the fleet’s encounters with royalty. Matches alive or dead were sought mainly for the ICS men’s great salaries and pensions. Even if a groom died of disease soon after marriage, his bride would be well taken care of by the Raj. If a young lady were unable to make a match she was branded “returned empty” and sent back to Europe. Some went back by choice to find their partner locally in Britain, while others simply never married remaining spinsters the rest of their lives. Brownproblems Girl The Wannabe Health Freak The South Asian diet is perhaps the antithesis of the Mediterranean. Steeped in oil and cholesterol like ghee, our food may taste delicious but it’s a silent killer. India not only has the highest number of Type 2 diabetes patients in the world, but children are becoming increasingly insulin resistant. To make matters worse, all things being equal, those with South Asian genes are more susceptible to metabolic syndrome than Caucasians. So there’s the science behind why your mom needs to cut back on the trans fats. If you’re able to go to the gym yourself, I assume you’re also old enough to be cooking for yourself (and perhaps for your family on occasion). You should speak to your mother from a scientific perspective. Do some research into metabolic syndrome and the consequences of ignoring it. Map out your case and chances are she will be so impressed with the initiative you’ve taken, she’s bound to hear you out and perhaps help in meal preparation. By cutting back on unnecessary oils and starch you’re not just doing your body good, but you’re also going to be able to taste certain spices and flavours that were previously masked by all that grease. Give it a go—you might find your passion lies in cooking. mixing with native women. As miscegenation laws soon took hold by 1800, the daughters of these communities became social pariahs. Neither the British nor Indian population wanted to accept them. A few of them, like Grace Trotter covered in the novel, managed to marry their way out and back into one society or another. However after succeeding in finding a husband of noble blood, she left him as soon as they returned to Britain. Her story is not unique and is one of many covered by de Courcy’s “The Fishing Fleet.” The Anti-Bridezilla Dear The Anti-Bridezilla, I’m going to press the envelope here and give you two answers— my answer and the right answer. Personally I could not agree more with you. The South Asian wedding industry is currently valued at $38 billion internationally and attending one is akin to a day at the circus. Even families who may not necessarily be able to afford a massive send-off for their daughter pull out all the stops for a week of over-the-top decadence. Being the exact opposite of subtle, it’s not surprising the multi day South Asian wedding isn’t for everyone. If such an affair is really not you, propose something low-key that you and your fiancé will foot the bill for. There’s my two cents. I’ve gone to a lot of weddings growing up. As fun as they can be, I can’t help but dislike the humongous crowds that South Asian weddings contain all too often. As a bride-to-be, I would ideally like to keep my crowd to a minimum but my father sees it as a necessity to invite every person he’s ever known (okay, a little bit of a stretch). It’s overwhelming having hundreds of people you don’t know at your own wedding! We can’t see eye-to-eye on this topic and he SHE CANADA 93 TRAVEL “Paris is always a good idea.” AUDREY HEPBURN “Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines, sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.” mark twain “Bizarre travel plans are dancing lessons from God.” kurt vonnegut 94 SHE CANADA “Once a year, go some place you’ve never been before.” dalai lama “One’s destination is never a place; rather, a new way of looking at things.” henry miller “Knowledge of one other culture should sharpen our ability to scrutinize more steadily, to appreciate more lovingly, our own.” MArgaret mead SHE CANADA 95 96 SHE CANADA