Playing it safe in virtual Krakow
Transcription
Playing it safe in virtual Krakow
The Krakow Post NO. 13 WWW.KRAKOWPOST.COM AUGUST 2-AUGUST 8, 2007 WEEKLY Playing it safe in virtual Krakow Krakow has become Poland’s first virtual city in the popular online game Second Life, where players can create a character who travels, works, bargains, even eats in virtual restaurants. THIS WEEK Germany opens job market to Poles Germany rethinks limits once placed on employing citizens of new EU member-states 2 Saving Krakowians from Britons Krakow is cracking down on drunk tourists, and plans to print flyers warning them of behavior that will not be tolerated 7 Hard Rock catching up to Krakow The city’s growing popularity brought in about 8 mln tourists last year. Now Hard Rock Cafe wants a piece of the action 9 Anna Biernat STAFF JOURNALIST Krakow has become Poland’s first virtual city in the popular online game Second Life, where players can create a character who travels, works, bargains and even eats in virtual restaurants. To start with, the city’s representation – known as Second Krakow – will be limited to Rynek Glowny and adjoining streets. Later it will be expanded to other areas. All the elements of the architecture and infrastructure are faithful copies of the original. There’s Rynek Glowny with Mariacki Church, the Town Hall’s tower, Sukiennice (Cloth Hall), Adam Mickiewicz’s Monument and the facades of apartment houses. Even Rynek Glowny’s money box is there – a one-meter-tall glass box where visitors can donate money to the renovation of the Old Town. Zbigniew Woznowski of the Supremum Group advertising agency came up with Second Krakow. Second Life allows virtual representations of cities around the world to become part of its web site. “Krakow is a special city and we want to promote it through Second Life,” said Woznowski, whose name in the game is Zbysioo Borchowski. “I am happy that after a lot of hard work, we finally created Second Krakow. I think it’s the best-quality Second City in the whole of Second Life.” Krakow is one of the first Second Life cities in Europe. Others include Paris, Amsterdam and Berlin. The Supremum Group plans to add the Polish cities of Zakopane and Giewont in October and Warsaw, Wroclaw, Gdansk, Poznan and Katowice later. “We want to build a stronger representation of our nation in the virtual world as well as encourage foreigners to visit Krakow and Poland,” Woznowski said. So far, visitors to virtual Krakow can only walk through the market, go inside empty buildings and buy the city’s famous pretzels, or “obwarzanek,” with a made-up currency known as a Linden dollar. The exchange rate for the Linden dollar is $1 per 270 Linden dollars. Polish Second Life players have been exchanging their views about Second Krakow on the Internet. Most opinions have been positive but many have complained that Second Krakow still has too few activities for Second Life players. Most of those posting comments say that visually the city has been really well done. But more detail – such as interiors – needs to be added, they said. Second Krakow visitors also say they hope to find more attractions and activities soon. Woznowski said that will happen. In fact, the Second Krakow team is continually developing and improving the site. “Soon we will be able to ride a hackney carriage, go shopping in Sukiennice, establish our own business and buy real estate,” Woznowski said. A flat on Rynek Glowny will cost a few hundred zloty a month. The price of a stand in Sukiennice has yet to be set. Also in the future, Second Krakow players will be able to visit museums and go to the theater or a movie or drink a beer in one of the garden pubs around Rynek Glowny. Second Krakow’s creators emphasize its educational and informational value. Indeed, every famous spot on Rynek Glowny is equipped with an online sign that tells a bit about it. But the virtual city will be a way to make money, too. For example, the creators plan to give virtual visitors a chance to drink beer in one of the garden pubs around Rynek Glowny. It’s not surprising then that “we are presently conducting talks with Polish breweries that would like to invest in the virtual world,” Woznowski said. Virtual visitors will also have a chance to see places which normally are inaccessible to tourists. One is likely to be the basement under Rynek Glowny, which archaeologists dug out during the platform’s renovation. “Most probably we will be able to see Rynek Glowny’s underground virtually See ONLINE on Page 6 2 P O L A N D The Krakow Post R E G I O N A L N E W S Five European and African smugglers arrested in Finland Finnish customs arrested five European and African citizens as they were trying to smuggle fake brand watches and mobile phone components destined for Spanish and Polish markets, the Finnish authorities said late last week. According to the customs, it is extremely rare that smugglers travel by plane and hide the counterfeit merchandise in their luggage. The customs found 7,000 fake Rolex, Cartier, IWC, Emporio Armani and Bulgari watches hidden in their baggage. There were also women among the suspects, who went on board in Guangzhou in southern China, this month. The smugglers are not risking any legal consequences unless the manufacturers, who were contacted by Finnish authorities, decide to file a complaint for the caused damages, Head of Helsinki-Vantaa Airport Customs Mika Pitkaeniemi told AFP. (AFP) AUGUST 2-AUGUST 8, 2007 Germany considers opening jobs for Poles, Eastern Europeans After EU enlargement, Germany set limitations on employing citizens of new EU member-states until 2009. Now the country is thinking about loosening the restrictions U.S. pays Czechs to destroy Cold War missiles The U.S., which hopes to extend its missile defense into the Czech Republic, will help Prague destroy Soviet-made Cold War missiles, Vice Defense Minister Martin Bartak said late last week. The Czech Republic, a former Communist state and Warsaw Pact member, has a surplus of 1,359 Soviet-made mobile guided anti-aircraft missile systems and 658 mobile launch pads. Washington will contribute $600,000 (435,000 euro) to efforts to destroy the weapons, Bartak said. The payment is part of U.S. efforts to prevent the proliferation of anti-aircraft missiles. Prague is progressively replacing the Cold War missiles, now deemed obsolete, with the modern RBS-70 system produced by Sweden’s Saab company. Saab is to deliver 16 anti-aircraft systems by the end of the year for 35 mln euro ($48 mln). Washington wants the Czech Republic to accept a radar station, which, together with 10 interceptor missiles in neighboring Poland, would extend its anti-missile shield into Central Europe. The shield is to protect the U.S. and its allies against attack from a “rogue state” such as Iran. The proposal has riled Russia and created rifts within NATO. Last week a poll found that 65 percent of Czechs opposed the plan. (AFP) Axa and BNP Paribas to buy Ukrainian insurer French insurance giants AXA and BNP Paribas unit UkrSibbank have agreed jointly to buy 99 percent of Ukraine’s sixth-biggest damage insurer, Vesko. The financial details of the transaction were not revealed in a joint statement. They said Axa and BNP Paribas will make the acquisition through a joint venture, Ukrainian Insurance Alliance. Combined with UIA’s existing activity, the move will give the French companies third place on the Ukrainian market, with seven percent. Vesko had 2006 sales of $28 mln (20.6 mln euro).(AFP) Four killed, three injured in Czech building collapse At least four people were killed and three others seriously injured late last week when part of a disused steel factory collapsed in the Czech Republic, rescue services said. Several emergency teams using sniffer dogs and backed up by a helicopter gathered at the site at Kladno, northwest of Prague, where up to a dozen people could be trapped under the rubble, they said. “The collapse occurred in a significant section of the disused building, which had a steel frame and a concrete roof,” said police spokeswoman Jana Steinerova. Kladno’s Mayor Dan Jiranek said police had earlier expelled about 20 people from the factory after they were found cutting up the steel frame of the building, probably to sell it off. But they returned during the night. “It is a great misfortune but was also enormously irresponsible of these people,” he told reporters. Dozens of people, mainly Romas, waited near the accident site to hear if their relatives were among the dead, the media reported. (AFP) Germany had a special fear of new workers in 2004 because it had suffered from years of economic and unemployment problems related to German reunification. In early 2006 it began shaking off its economic malaise, however, prompting companies to begin hiring. It now has its lowest unemployment in 14 years – 8.8 percent. Danuta Filipowicz STAFF JOURNALIST Germany is thinking about opening its job market to professionals from Poland and other new EU members soon. The policy would apply only to skills that Germany is having difficulty filling, however. The country plans a general opening of its job market in 2009. When Poland and other Eastern European countries joined the EU in 2004, Germany felt it would need five years to open its job market. An immediate opening would lead to a flood of workers from Eastern Europe, cutting German workers’ wages, it feared. In fact, the Germans could have delayed a general opening until 2011 under EU rules that gave older members a two-year extension if they could prove that an influx of new workers would create problems for their economies. But Germany is having trouble filling certain skilled positions, so it is considering loosening its ban on new EU members’ citizens taking those jobs, Dziennik newspaper reported. When the EU expanded, the 15 older members were worried about what an influx of Eastern European workers would do Turk Uzel set to take over iconic Polish Ursus plant agence france-presse Turkish farm machinery company Uzel is set to take over Poland’s iconic Ursus tractor plant, the factory’s owners announced early this week. “Talks are in progress. They center on establishing a new joint company in which Uzel will be the majority partner,” Roma Sarzynska, spokeswoman of the state-owned Bumar industrial group, told AFP. Uzel, one of the world’s top 10 tractor companies, has offered to invest 75 mln zloty (20 mln euro, $27 mln) to upgrade the plant over three years, Sarzynska said. “In our view, that’s a satisfactory investment,” he added. Once a deal has been completed, Ursus expects to boost production capacity to 10,000 tractors a year from the current level of 2,000, she added. Ursus, which lies just outside Warsaw, was a Communist-era flagship and once supplied half of all tractors used in Poland. At its peak in the 1970s it produced around 80,000 tractors a year. The factory later became a symbol of workers rebellion against the regime, after strikes in 1976 and the foundation of the independent Solidarity trade union in 1980. Ursus fell on hard times after the collapse of the Communist system in 1989, when Poland began the often painful transition to a market economy. After flirting with bankruptcy, it was taken over by Bumar in 2001. The factory has been given a new lease on life since 2004 thanks to Poland’s membership in the EU, as Polish farmers use the EU aid to upgrade their operations by buying new tractors. to their economies and their social-service systems. Only Great Britain, Ireland and Sweden opened their job markets completely and immediately. Some of the other older members, such as France, opened their job markets only partially – by work skill. Still others, including Germany and Austria, decided to open their markets after a transitional period. News organizations in countries where there was near-hysteria about Eastern Europeans flooding labor markets came up with the “Polish plumber” caricature to sound the alarm. They contended that Polish plumbers would flood across the border to take the jobs of plumbers in older EU member countries at far lower wages. The Polish plumber thus became a metaphor for all Eastern European workers who, alarmists said, threatened to undercut the wages of workers in older EU countries. Some of the countries that took the jobopenings-by-skills approach in 2004 have greatly expanded the number of skills that new EU members’ citizens can fill. In France, for example, Eastern European members’ citizens no longer need a work permit for more than 60 fields in which there is a need for workers. Germany had a special fear of new workers in 2004 because it had suffered from years of economic and unemployment problems related to German reunion. In early 2006 it began shaking off its economic malaise, however – which prompted its companies to begin hiring. It now has its lowest unemployment in 14 years – 8.8 percent. And it has a shortage of certain highly skilled people. ‘’We especially need engineers, technicians, computer scientists and specialists from the construction sector,’’ said Torben Leif Brodersen, chief of the German Franchise Association. The association and other employers groups welcome the government’s proposal to open some jobs to workers from new EU members. Achim Derecks, deputy director of the DHK Federation of German Chambers of Commerce, said it would be a good idea to hire skilled Eastern Europeans now. If Germany waits, he said, they may go elsewhere. Employment research indicates that 24 percent of German companies are unable to fill all of the job openings they have. The loudest complaints are from the export and services sectors. A chronic, continuing shortage of workers could hurt economic growth over the long run, analysts say. Some politicians are demanding that the government introduce minimum wages for the sectors that are to be opened to Eastern Europeans. They are worried about employers paying the newcomers less, thus reducing the wages of all workers over time. Poland authorities sell rest of country’s top steel concern to int’l giant Arcelor Mittal agence france-presse Polish authorities announced late last week that they were selling their remaining one-quarter stake in the country’s biggest steel concern, PHS, to the majority owner, global giant Arcelor Mittal. “The Polish Treasury and Arcelor Mittal have reached an agreement on the sale price for the 25.2percent stake which remains in state hands. The unit price has been set at 6.50 zloty (1.73 euro, $2.39), or a total sum of 436.4 mln zloty,” the treasury said in a statement. The price “results from negotiations between the two parties over recent months,” it said. Earlier this year, the Polish Auditors’ Court had recommended that the treasury review the terms of the 2004 sale of 70 percent of PHS to Arcelor Mittal. The court had said that the value of PHS was “underestimated by around 2 bln zloty” at the time of its acquisition by Arcelor Mittal. The court had recommended specifically that the treasury renegotiate the terms of a call option that was part of the 2004 deal, and which was meant to enable Arcelor Mittal to acquire the rest of PHS for one zloty per share, or a total of 67 mln zloty. The court did not, however, complain about Arcelor Mittal winning the tender to buy PHS, saying that its offer was the best on the table at the time. Key planks of the 2004 deal included pledges by Arcelor Mittal to invest 2.4 bln zloty in PHS up to 2009, to increase the Polish group’s capital by 800 mln zloty, and buy back its debts for around 1 bln zloty. PHS comprises the four main steel mills in Poland – Huta Sendzimira, Huta Katowice, Huta Florian and Huta Cedler – which between them account for 70 percent of Polish steel production. AUGUST 2-AUGUST 8, 2007 P O L A N D The Krakow Post 3 Poland holds off resuming controversial roadworks at center of environmental clash with Brussels “Nothing will happen until the Polish government gives official confirmation,” Poland will hold off building a highway she told AFP. in a sensitive wetland zone pending a rul“Then we will need to analyze it to see if ing by Europe’s top court on whether the there are sufficient guarantees to enable us project breaches EU environmental rules, to withdraw our legal action,” she added. Prime Minister Jaroslaw Kaczynski said If the case goes ahead, there is no deadearly this week. line for a ruling, said European Court “We need to show restraint,” Kaczynski spokesman Chris Fretwell. said in an interview with Polish public raThe EC fired a warning shot against dio, a day after the European Commission Warsaw at the European Court earlier this stepped up the pressure by asking the Euroyear. pean Court of Justice to impose an injuncPoland suspended initial work at the site tion on construction in the Rospuda Valley in March citing the bird-breeding season as in northeast Poland. the reason, rather than the legal clash. Resuming work at this stage would have Polish authorities had announced that a “negative impact” on the wider highway construction would resume this week. project of which it is part, Kaczynski said. Greenpeace, which is also deeply opThe Rospuda Valley posed to the project, set highway plan – which up camp briefly at the Many locals say they is just one section of the construction site earlier can no longer stand the planned “Via Baltica” this year. project to improve links Environmental activnoise, pollution and risk between the Baltic states, of fatal accidents caused ists pitched tents there Poland and the rest of the on Monday, but by the 4,500 heavy goods again EU – has set Warsaw on decided to leave on vehicles which rumble a collision course with Tuesday morning. Brussels. through every day. The Rospuda project The EC, the EU’s exhas been in the pipeecutive arm, describes line for 15 years, well the valley as a “unique wetland system” before Poland joined the EU in 2004, and and says its animal and plant life must be many residents of Augustow are exasperprotected. ated over the delays. But Polish officials have repeatedly dePoland’s current single-lane Route nied that the 40-kilometer (25-mile) stretch Eight, the main highway to and from Lithuof road, which is also meant to ease the ania, cuts through the center of the town of current burden of truck traffic through the 30,000 people. nearby town of Augustow, would breach the Many locals say they can no longer environmental rules of the 27-nation EU. stand the noise, pollution and risk of fatal “We are going to win this case,” Kacaccidents caused by the 4,500 heavy goods zynski said. vehicles which rumble through every day. “We are going to stop work now in order On Monday, hundreds of angry residents to resume it after we’ve won,” he added. set up a blockade in the town, halting truck Work will meanwhile continue on untraffic until the early hours of Tuesday and contested parts of the Via Baltica, he said. causing a huge tailback. Poland hopes to get almost 481 mln euro Polish authorities note that the highway ($657 mln) in EU funds for the Via Baltica, project includes a pillared bridge across the but the money could be in jeopardy if Warvalley, and say they have picked the leastsaw breaches EU environmental rules. damaging option available. EC environmental spokeswoman BarEnvironmental campaigners, however, bara Helfferich said Brussels was waiting charge that the planners failed to give for Warsaw to put in writing its pledge to proper consideration to an alternative route freeze construction in the Rospuda Valley. skirting the valley. agence france-presse The EC, the EU’s executive arm, describes the valley as a “unique wetland system” and says its animal and plant life must be protected. But Polish officials have denied that the new stretch of road would breach the environmental rules of the 27-nation EU. Polish Euro MP seeks removal of name from CIA prisons report agence france-presse Polish socialist EU MP Marek Siwiec has brought court action in Poland demanding Swiss Senator Dick Marty remove his name from a report about secret CIA prisons in Europe. Despite earlier attempts to end the dispute in a “conciliatory” fashion Marty has maintained his “untrue statements” in his report as rappoorteur for the Council of Europe on the rendition flights, Siwiec’s office said in a statement from Poland. Siwiec’s attorney, Mariusz Paplaczyk, lodged the summons at a court in Poznan, Poland, early this week, demanding an apology from Marty and the removal of his name from the secret prisons report. Marty’s report said clandestine prisons in northeast Poland and southeast Romania were part of a “global spider’s web” of de- Poland wants property issue settled “once and for all” agence france-presse Prime Minister Jaroslaw Kaczynski said late last week he wanted to settle the question of disputed German property seized by Poland after World War II “once and for all.” Around a third of Poland is made up of former German territory after the 1945 Potsdam Treaty effectively moved the country west by 200 kilometers (124 miles). Many German families originally from the regions have sought to get their property back through lawsuits, causing uncertainty and resentment among Poles who have settled there. “We must resist the destabilization of Polish property law in the northern and western regions,” Kaczynski told a news conference, broadcast by the TVN24 news channel. German Agnes Trawny won back land and forests which had been taken over by the Polish state in East Prussia on the grounds that officials had failed to change the property’s entry in the national register. Such loopholes would now be closed, Kaczynski said, announcing an update of the national property register, and moves to transform lease agreements into deeds. Germany does not back the lawsuits by its citizens after the government dropped all territorial claims in Poland in a 1990 treaty. tentions and illegal prisoner transfers spun by the U.S. and its allies after the September 11, 2001 attacks. Marty accused Poland and Romania of harboring the CIA detention centers between 2003 and 2005. He said that Siwiec, then the Polish minister of defense, along with others including former President Aleksander Kwasniewski, had approved Poland’s role in the secret CIA activities and detentions. Siwiec remains willing to “reach an agreement with the defendant... to stop the violation of the good name of the (Euro) deputy,” the MEP’s office said in a statement. The European Commission has called on EU countries accused of taking part in the covert CIA program to conduct impartial investigations “as quickly as possible” to establish responsibility. JAGIELLONIAN UNIVERSITY Polish for Foreigners New Courses, Low Prices!!! The biggest and oldest School of Polish Language and Culture invites you to its latest program: “Autumn with the Polish Language by the Wawel Castle in Krakow” - Two-week Polish-language courses (50 hours of instruction) - Two sessions (first and second half of September) - Different levels of proficiency - Small groups - Experienced teachers - Latest teaching methods - University diploma at the end of the course Information: www.uj.edu.pl/SL [email protected] Tel.: +48 (0) 12 421 36 95 P O L A N D The Krakow Post R E G I O N A L N E W S Ukrainian worker dies after drinking session in Cyprus A Ukrainian man died of heatstroke in Cyprus after heavy drinking as temperatures soared above 40 degrees Celsius (104 degrees Fahrenheit), police said early this week. Chmyr Bogdan, 46, was found dead in his Nicosia apartment late last week during one of the hottest days of the year with the mercury rising to 44 degrees Celsius. “A preliminary investigation shows that death was caused by heatstroke after the deceased drank a large volume of alcohol,” a police spokesman told AFP. The man, a construction worker, was initially found by his wife, a nurse, who then called the police. According to press reports, the Ukrainian had consumed three to four bottles of vodka with friends in a room that had no air conditioning or fans. In June, a similar week-long heat wave claimed the lives of three elderly people – bringing the death toll so far this summer to four. Temperatures in the capital soar daily beyond 37 degrees Celsius while coastal areas are slightly cooler but extremely humid. The punishing dry spell is putting a heavy strain on the island’s water reserves with dams only at 19 percent of capacity. More furnace-like temperatures have also triggered record demand for electricity as Cypriots try to stay cool in air conditioned offices and homes. The meteorological service said the stifling heat was due to a hot air mass coming in from the east which kept the country’s temperatures high until early Wednesday. (AFP) Czechs charge prosecutor in Communist-era trial Czech legal authorities have launched murder proceedings against one of the surviving prosecutors in the 57-year-old Communist show trial of national hero Milada Horakova, the news agency CTK reported early this week. Proceedings against Ludmilla BrozovaPolednova, aged 85, were launched late last week, the agency said, citing Prague state prosecutors’ office spokesman, Martin Omelka. Polednova was one of a team of Communist-era prosecutors who directed the Stalinist-style show trial of Horakova, a former World War II resistance hero and Czechoslovak lawmaker, which resulted in her conviction and execution in 1950. Communist authorities, who seized power in a coup at the start of 1948, charged Horakova and a handful of accomplices with plotting to overthrow the state. Her courageous self-defense and refusal to play the role plotted for her in the show trial resulted in Horakova becoming one of the main symbols of the anti-Communist resistance. A Hollywood film is currently being filmed about her life. The prosecution will draw on long lost radio and film archive material of the trial, the agency said. Previous moves to punish those responsible for staging the show trial have not resulted in any convictions. Horakova’s sentence was cancelled in 1968, but her name was not fully cleared until 1990, soon after the fall of the former Czechoslovak Communist regime. (AFP) Storm halts environmentalist triathlete’s trans-Baltic swim Bad weather forced a Lithuanian triathlete to interrupt his attempt to swim 209 kilometers (130 miles) across the Baltic Sea to draw attention to pollution, organizers said late last week. With around 100 kilometers to go, Vidmantas Urbonas boarded a support yacht after spending three hours battling stormy seas, his team said in a statement. “It is expected that waves will reach 2.5 meters (eight feet) today and it is dangerous not only for the athlete but also for the yachts accompanying him. Everything now will depend on weather conditions,” it said. Urbonas and his crew were due to sail to Pavilosta in Latvia, where they would make a final decision on whether to try to resume the swim or call it off completely, the statement said. Urbonas, who was world triathlon champion in 1998, set out from Kalmar in Sweden on July 22. He had been planning to make the crossing in three stages – with the longest stretch spanning 145 kilometers from the island of Gotland in Sweden to Palanga, Lithuania – and was aiming to make landfall on July 29. After facing bad weather from the outset, Urbonas shifted his planned landing to Pavilosta. (AFP) AUGUST 2-AUGUST 8, 2007 Roma gangsters lure Poles into slavery in Sweden via job ads in Polish newspapers Poster promoting awareness of human trafficking. Danuta Filipowicz STAFF JOURNALIST Roma gangs promise Poles jobs in Sweden, but when the Poles arrive, the gangs force them to shoplift or burglarize apartments. If a Pole balks at committing crimes, the gangs beat or even torture him, according to reporters Piotr Gluchowski and Marcin Kowalski of Gazeta Wyborcza. The Roma gangsters go after uneducated Poles, luring some with job ads in Polish newspapers or on the Internet. They entice others by having Roma living in Poland go to small-town bars and discos, mainly in western Poland, to look for people who want work. They promise men construction work and women housework or nanny jobs. They say they will provide the Poles with transportation to Sweden, an apartment and food – for free. And they tell them they don’t need to speak Swedish. “At the beginning everything looks great,” said Jacek, a Pole in Sweden’s capital of Stockholm. “For a week or two, a person is cleaning Roma places or building their houses.” But the Roma take away his passport on the pretext that they need it to rent a flat for him, Jacek said. They put him in government-provided public housing, then give him an advance on his wages, which he is told he must repay with interest, Jacek said. Some Poles are happy about the advance because they can send some of it back to their families, Jacek said. The problem is the spiralling interest on the “loan,” he said. The Roma tell the Pole that the amount owed is increasing because of the interest. Then they tell him that he can pay off the loan quicker if he goes with them to a store. In the store, Jacek said, they suddenly tell you: “Take it. Hide it in your pocket.’’ If you do, he said, then they begin training you in all the tricks of being a criminal. “They give you instructions in how to disable alarms” and how to “case joints” – look for ways to burglarize places – without being noticed, he said. The Polish immigrant thinks that by engaging in crime, he will pay off the debt he owes the Roma. But the Roma have stacked the deck against him: He will never pay off the loan because the high interest rate means the debt gets larger and larger. When a Pole does burglarize or steal, the gangsters take more than 90 percent of the loot, Jacek said. And some of the gangs set quotas on the number of crimes a Pole must commit each day. In some cases, the quota is 30 thefts a day, a Polish man who was forced into crime told Swedish journalists. If someone tries to stop engaging in crime, gang members beat him, burn him with cigarettes and break his fingers. Gangsters watch when Poles steal and burglarize. If police catch a Pole, the gangsters go with him to the police station to make sure he doesn’t tell them about the gang. Those who say too much about the gang during a police interrogation disappear, Jacek said. Thirty-four-year-old Pawel F. decided one day that he had had enough of a gang forcing him to commit crimes. When gang members took him to a supermarket in the southern Swedish city of Malmö, he went to a security guard and then to police. After giving his story to police, Pawel asked if he could contact the Polish consular office. But he became so scared about the gangsters retaliating against him that he hung himself the following day while still in police custody. His death led to journalists delving into the gangs. “We have discovered” a widespread criminal enterprise involving Polish thieves, Joakim Palmkvist of the newspaper Sydsvenskan reported. “In the city there are criminal groups who take advantage of hundreds of people, using them as slaves for crimes,’’ Malmö Police Chief Henrik Malmkvist confirmed. “We know about similar gangs in Stockholm and Göteborg (on the west coast of Sweden). “They take advantage of poor, uneducated people from Poland who have never been abroad,” Malmkvist said. “They do what the gangster tells them out of fear.” It’s hard to ferret out who is actually in the gangs, the chief said, although police do know that there are five gang “families,” each headed by a powerful “Godfather.” One Pole who had been forced into crime told Swedish journalists that Roma crime families have lived in Sweden for 30 to 40 years. “Many Poles who manage to escape come to our consulate,” said Gerard Pokruszynski, the Polish consul in Malmö. Some show evidence of severe beatings and even torture, he said. He said the consulate has recorded hundreds of such situations. Immediately after Poland joined the EU in 2004, “these incidents became more frequent,” with several people coming to the consulate weekly. Swedish police and the national prosecutor’s office in north Poland have investigated the cases. Three Poles have been arrested, two of them Roma, on accusations of trafficking in humans and forcing others to engage in crimes. The prosecutor’s office said it has a list of 200 victims of the Roma gangs. It will be interrogating them as part of its investigation. Read pg. 5 for further information on this topic: “Polish women abused by Roma” Poland makes plans for weekend prisons LUK Agency 4 Although the program is called “weekend jail,” inmates will be able to serve two days a week on any days approved by court. Remaining time to spend living in the community the krakow post Poland is going to allow non-violent offenders to serve their time on weekends to alleviate jail overcrowding and to keep families together, the Polish Press Agency (PAP) has reported. Noting that England and Wales already have instituted such a program, the Ministry of Justice said Poland has 90,000 prisoners, but space for 75,000. The new system will mean only 45,000 inmates in jail at a time, the ministry said. It will save the government money because inmates will be paying for their food while at home and will be costing the jail system less in utility bills. Minister of Justice Zbigniew Ziobro said weekend jail will apply only to those who are deemed no risk to society, whose original sentences were 12 months or less and who have six months or less to go. Although the program is called “weekend jail,” inmates will be able to serve two days a week on any days a court approves. The rest of the time they will be living in the community. By allowing inmates to work or study during the week, and help take care of their children, the program will keep non-violent offenders’ families together, the ministry said. England and Wales began trying a weekend jail system on a limited basis in 2004. It has worked so well that soon all courts of original jurisdiction will be allowed to use it. Weekend jail helps eliminate such tragic consequences of even short-term confinement as loss of employment, loss of accommodations and family disintegration. In addition to allowing a prisoner to live in the community most of the time, the new program will require the inmate to pay the administrative costs related to his sentencing and jailing. The new program is in line with a UN effort that encourages countries to find ways other than confinement to punish offenders, the ministry added. The UN adopted the so-called Tokyo Rules on December 14, 1990. P O L A N D AUGUST 2-AUGUST 8, 2007 The Krakow Post 5 Polish women abused by Roma cc:sa:Andreas Ribbefjord Old women made slaves in Roma houses, young women forced into prostitution Riksdag building on Helgeandsholmen in Stockholm, Sweden. Danuta Filipowicz STAFF JOURNALIST Roma gangs in Sweden have lured Polish women there with promises of good jobs, then forced the older ones into being slave housekeepers and the younger ones into being prostitutes. Maryla, who is 50, answered an ad in her west-central Polish town seeking a housekeeper for a Polish family in Sweden, according to Gazeta Wyborcza. Maryla is not her real name, nor are the other names in this story real – an effort to protect them. But their stories are real. The ad promised good money, Maryla said. “When I arrived, I learned that it was a Polish-speaking but Roma family,” she said. The first thing the family did, she said, was take her passport and other documents. A few days into her stay, she said, the mistreatment started. “From the fourth day of my stay I was beaten,” Maryla said. And “they didn’t give me anything to eat. fate, she testified about her Roma abductors. “Even the children abused me,” she said. But later, scared, she changed her testimony. “I don’t understand how they could teach So the Roma are free today. children to do such things.” Ewelina told prosecutors gathering eviThey warned her that dence against the Roma she would never leave the Ewelina, a 20-year-old from a in Malmö, a town in south place. But “I had a mobile city not far from Krakow, did Sweden, that a celebraphone,” she said. “I mantion of a friend’s birthday not have so much luck. She aged to type only ‘Help in Poland started a tragic was forced to work as a sex me’ – and sent the mes- slave in Sweden. When police chain of events that led to sage to my son.” her going to Sweden. finally learned of her fate, She took her shoes “I was at my friend’s,” she testified about her Roma from the front entrance she said. “We were celabductors. But later, scared, hallway to the bathroom, ebrating his birthday. He she changed her testimony. telling the Roma she had drunk too much. Then needed to clean them. “I someone knocked on the put them on and ran,” she said. window. It was Grzegorz C, nicknamed A “nice woman” took her to a ferry, she “Babka.” He told Ewelina she should take said. “It was kind of a small miracle.’’ a job in Sweden taking care of children in Ewelina, a 20-year-old from a city not far a Roma family. She said she didn’t have a from Krakow, did not have so much luck. passport. Then Babka called “Czarny,” a She was forced to work as a sex slave in Roma boss, Ewelina said. She said she and Sweden. When police finally learned of her her friend got into a car with Babka and Czarny. During the ride, they pushed her friend out of the car. Then the Roma taped her mouth shut and covered her with a blanket, she said. They took her to a town in southern Poland about 200 kilometers from Krakow. Czarny took the passport from a Roma woman, then doctored the photo so it would look like Ewelina, she said. “We traveled to the port and took the ferry to Sweden. On the ferry I learned that my work would be sex. I wanted to go back, but Czarny said it was impossible.” He told her he would beat her unless she began doing what he said. The Roma held her against her will in a room. Czarny lined up men to have sex with her. The men paid him, she said. Her role was to “come across.” Czarny said he would pay her for her “work” later. He also told her she would have to “do it” the whole day because he needed money. She was too scared not to comply. She testified that she was not given con- LUK Agency Polish and Slovak national Bryndza or “cheese paste”? park systems aim to make trails in Tatra and Pieniny mountains accessible for disabled people traceptives to use during her ordeal. “All the time Czarny was promising me that I could go back to Poland and I would get my money,’’ she testified. But instead he took her to a hotel in Norway. While men came to her room for sex, Czarny and other Roma would go out to shoplift in stores, she said. Czarny then “sold” her to other Roma men for 30,000 Swedish krona – less than $4,500 – plus a car, she said. “These people got an apartment for me, which I had to clean,” she said. “Only they could unlock the door. I tried but I was unable to. I was living there and receiving clients,” she told Gazeta Wyborcza. One day a drunken customer became rowdy, and someone called police. When they arrived, they learned Ewelina’s fate. They asked her to testify against the Roma so the prosecutors could send them to prison. After she had given her story to prosecutors in Malmö, they sent Ewelina to Poland to give her story to prosecutors there. Even before Swedish authorities were able to arrest Czarny, however, Ewelina recanted her testimony. She traveled 600 kilometers to the Swedish Embassy in Warsaw to say that she was recanting. The testimony had only brought her and other people problems, she said. When police officials asked if she had been threatened into recanting, she said no. One of those talking with her then asked the reason she wanted to recant her testimony. She didn’t answer. “These people are totally intimidated,’’ Gerard Pokruszynski, Poland’s general consul in Malmö, said of the Roma’s Polish victims. Malmö Police Chief Henrik Malmkvist said Roma gang leaders cast a long shadow in the Polish towns where the women are from. “They know their parents” and other relatives, Malmkist said. They can make life unpleasant for not only the women, but also those close to them. Knowing this, the “women are terrified,” Malmkvist said. Without Ewelina’s testimony, Swedish prosecutors had to drop their case against Czarny for lack of evidence. However, the Prosecutor’s Office in Oswiecim, 55 kilometers from Krakow, has found other women whom Babka and Czarny abducted and forced into sex slavery. They are gathering evidence now that they hope will put them behind bars. AGENCJA NIERUCHOMOŚCI www.property-krakow.com Alicja Natkaniec Valley. The second will go from Tatrzanska Jaworzyna to Jaworowa Valley. The one in Pieniny National Park will go from CzerThe national park systems of Poland and wony Klasztor to Lesnica. Slovakia are making trails in the Tatra and The combined length of the four routes Pieniny mountains wheelchair-accessible. will be about 17 kilometers. “The Tatras Without Barriers” project inPoland’s first wheelchair-accessible trail volves adaptations of existing trails. runs through Biala Woda Valley, a nature reSlovakia has already serve in the Little Pieniny prepared a wheelchair-acMountains. Stones and A number of organizations cessible trail and Poland’s vegetation were cleared regularly update information first was opened last weekfrom it and the ground about trails, tourist routes, hisend. The two countries are was leveled. torical places and monuments making the changes in the The 2.4-kilometer that are wheelchair-accessible. Tatra and Pieniny national route takes visitors along And they publish guidebooks parks. Each route they a picturesque mountain dedicated to the disabled. convert to wheelchair-acstream flowing through cessibility will be marked a limestone ravine. Four with the international acfootbridges allow them to cessibility symbol. cross the river. Western European countries Slovakia opened its first wheelchair-acare doing more for visitors with disabilities cessible route July 2 in the High Tatras. It – an effort known as accessible tourism. goes from the Stary Smokovec spa 4.2 kiA number of organizations regularly uplometers to the Rainerowa Chata mountain date information about trails, tourist routes, hut, 1,295 meters high. historical places and monuments that are Slovakia is preparing two more acceswheelchair-accessible. And they publish sible routes in the Tatras and one in the Piguidebooks dedicated to the disabled. eninys. The first in the Tatras will lead from Central European countries are just bethe border at Lysa Polana to Biala Woda ginning to get into accessible tourism. staff journalist NOCLEGI W APARTAMENTACH the krakow post Bryndza Podhalanska, a Polish cheese made from sheep’s milk, has received a EU trademark. The European Commission decision means that only registered producers from southern Poland’s Tatrzanski and Nowy Targ counties and selected villages from neighboring Zywiec County are entitled to use the Bryndza Podhalanska name. The trademark guarantees the cheese’s quality and that it is made in a traditional production process with specified components. The trademarking had one unintended effect. Some merchants, afraid of EU quality controls, have started selling the real product under the name: “cheese paste.” They think that by doing so they will avoid the controls. But, according to Andrzej Skupien, deputy head of Tatrzanski county, that is a misunderstanding. Bryndza is the first Polish product to receive an EU trademark. It joins a list of almost 800 regional delicacies from across the EU. The trademark will help promote Polish regional products and insure their quality, marketing experts say. A trademark is expected soon on Oscypek, another brand of Polish cheese. Although a trademark application was filed earlier than for Bryndza, the process has taken longer because of a Slovak protest. Slovakia makes a cheese of cow’s milk that has a name similar to Oscypek. The sides have reached an agreement on both issues so Brussels is expected to make a decision soon. www.aaakrakow.com [email protected] CALL IN AND SEE US! ul. Napoleona Cybulskiego 2 6 P O L A N D The Krakow Post AUGUST 2-AUGUST 8, 2007 63 years since Warsaw Uprising Justyna Krzywicka STAFF JOURNALIST August 1 marks the day of the Warsaw Uprising in 1944. The Polish Home Army (Armia Krajowa – AK) struggled to liberate Poland from Nazi German occupation 63 year ago on this day. This national insurrection dubbed Operation Tempest lasted for 63 days until October 2, the biggest partisan uprising in World War II. It saw 18,000 Polish soldiers killed, some 25,000 wounded and an estimated number between 120,000 to 200,000 of civilian deaths. The civilian deaths were a result of the mass murders carried out by the advancing German army. The Nazi troops lost 17,000 of its soldiers in the uprising and 9,000 were wounded. In this urban open warfare almost 25 percent of Warsaw was destroyed amounting to 85 percent of the city being destroyed after the Polish Home Army surrendered on October 2. The AK resistance planned the uprising in advance executing its commencement just as the Soviet army was approaching Warsaw. The aim of the insurrection wanted to see Warsaw liberated before the Red Army entered the city, so that the Soviet puppet government could be challenged by reinstalling Polish authorities to power. For many years after the uprising, when the Communist government was in power, insurgents were monitored, controlled and often imprisoned. Former soldier and now Professor of His- tory Wladyslaw Bartoszewski who took part in the uprising told Radio Trojka that the struggle was “worth it.” Despite the AK’s ultimate surrender the uprising was “the biggest sacrifice we could have ever imagined, and it is vital to value such sacrifice.” All of Poland marked this historical event with a minute of silence at 17:00 on August 1. The Uprising Memorial in Warsaw near the Parliament was a place of tribute and quiet reflection. The Warsaw Cemetery where most of the insurgents and civilians are buried was also visited by the public and Polish officials. Cities such as Wroclaw stopped running all public transport on the hour at 17:00 to mark this historical moment. Armed youth during the Warsaw Uprising. Online gaming: Virtually playing it safe in Krakow From ONLINE on Page 1 long before it is made accessible to the public in reality,” Woznowski said. Woznowski is also talking with the city about using Second Krakow as a promotional vehicle. Two ideas are to create tourist-information stands in the virtual city and having Second Krakow link to the city’s web site. In addition, “we want all the events that will be taking place on Rynek Glowny in reality to be transmitted live into the virtual Second Krakow,” said city spokesman Marcin Helbin. “Second Life is a kind of a bridge between a virtual world and reality,” he said. “I believe that virtual visiting of Second Krakow will encourage game users to come here in reality.” Will the city administration have a virtual representative? “We don’t count it out but so far our representative will be the city information guide,” Helbin said. Although Second Life has more than 8 mln users worldwide and more than 20,000 in Poland, it’s just the beginning of virtual cities, Woznowski said. “Second Life has great potential,” he said, because it incorporates a number of popular Internet features – such as chat, online games and identity change.” He said he thinks that in the future “for many people Second Life will be their primary source of information about what is happening in the world.” Second Life has at least one drawback in some people’s minds. Because it is a reflection of reality, it can feature all kinds of human activity in a city, including sex. It is often reported that about 30 percent of the virtual commercial activity in Second Life is sexual. How much sex will there be in the virtual representation of Krakow, which in reality has become a popular stag party spot? Woznowski said the virtual city will have less hanky-panky than the reality. To insure law and order and propriety, Second Krakow will have a city police force. “The negative aspects of the virtual world must be controlled in a way similar to the way they are controlled in reality,” Helbin said. However, around the real Krakow there will be eight “islands” where people will be able to run any kind of business, including casinos and strip clubs. Prisoners to be employees in desperate market the krakow post The current shortage in labor means private companies are looking to the prisons for willing workers. Dziennik Polski has reported there are over 6,000 convicted felons employed outside the prison walls in Poland today. This number constitutes almost all inmates who are able to carry out employment without a special convoy escort. The first picking order for working prisoners are from the “light offences” pool, inmates incarcerated for avoiding fee payments and alimony. These prisoners are usually serving sentences from six months to three years. Prison officers are reluctant to offer job opportunities to those inmates who are in prison on drug offence charges. Private companies sign contractual agreements with individual correctional services facilities, which then function as “recruiters” for the required positions. Some companies such as Alecop in Wolow have even erected production lines and warehouses on prison grounds, leasing land directly from the gaols. This form of employment guarantees worker availability and a cheap labor force. The average earnings of an employed prisoner is 468 zloty gross per month. After paying off debts, alimony and social security insurance a prisoner is usually left with 88 zloty on hand. Prisoners with vocational qualifications and trade certificates may earn somewhat more. Job descriptions include construction work, assembling of electrical equipment and textile tasks. The Swedish furniture company Ikea hires prisoners from Wolow to sew cushion covers and pillows. Krakow and Nowa Huta prisons facilitate companies such as Elpe Elektroprodukt, who hire workers for 5 zloty per hour to assemble heaters and lighting equipment. Andrzej Juszczyk, the vice president of Chemobudowa, a construction company in Krakow has nothing but praise for the prisoner workers the company hires from the Nowa Huta Correctional Facility. He told The Krakow Post “the prisoners work on three building sites and we haven’t experienced any problems. Sure there are small incidences here and there, but they have been so minor that they are not even worth mentioning. We are very happy with the arrangement.” This sentiment must ring true around the prisoner labor market, as the demand for such workers is growing. “We the employers see this as an opportunity for additional labor for us, but it is also a re-assimilation process into the work force for the prisoners,” adds Juszczyk. Chemobudowa has increased its inmate intake quota from 15 prisoners from last year to 30 today. Tel.: +48 (0) 12 424-3400 Fax: +48 (0) 12 424-3405 Email: [email protected] Web site: www.hotel.com.pl Hotel Copernicus ul. Kanonicza 16 31-002 Krakow, Poland LUK Agency HOTEL COPERNICUS K R A K O W AUGUST 2-AUGUST 8, 2007 The Krakow Post 7 Leaflets to defend Krakowians from Britons The flyer mentions that Polish law prohibits the sale of alcohol to people who are already drunk, whether they are in a pub, liquor store or other establishment, as well as loud behavior after 22:00 so people can sleep LUK Agency Danuta Filipowicz drunkenness, the flyer will contain such helpful information as the phone numbers of consulates, places to obtain medical care The Krakow City Council has begun plus information about pickpockets and othcracking down on drunk, rowdy tourists ers who prey on tourists. The flyer warns – and plans to publish flyers in English that visitors to be especially careful in trams, a warn them of behavior that will not be tolerfavorite haunt of pickpockets. The flyer also ated. The flyers will also offer tourist inforinforms visitors not to drink in public places mation plus tips on avoidsuch as streets and parks. ing becoming victims of And it mentions that Some pubs in the city those who prey on visitors. Polish law prohibits the center have already be- sale of alcohol to people The crackdown follows many complaints from gun posting signs saying who are already drunk, Krakow residents about whether they are in a pub, “no stag parties.” The rowdy tourists, especially liquor store or other estabidea is to try to prevent from Britain. lishment. groups of young foreign Part of the crackdown The flyers also warn men from “hanging out” that Polish law prohibits will involve Krakow police and border guardsat a tavern all night, get- loud behavior after 22:00 men – Straz Graniczna so people can sleep. ting drunk and unruly. – patrolling the city center And the flyer points out Krakow has become a and the railway station evthat a violation of these magnet for this kind of ery Friday and Saturday statutes can mean a fine of evening. The officers are up to 500 zloty. hell-raising. Dozens of trying both to curb rowdy The crackdown is inweb sites advertise the tourists and prevent them spired by the Zero Tolercity as a place for wild from getting into situaance program that Rudy stag parties. tions where their safety or Guliani instituted when property is jeopardized. he was mayor of New The law enforcement York City. During the officers are using a special map on their pafirst weekend of Krakow’s crackdown, potrols that shows them where drunken tourists lice made 24 arrests. Seven received fines have been especially troublesome. that totaled 650 zloty. “We will punish people for littering, At one point the City of Krakow was breaking the night-loudness ordinance or planning to prepare a separate flyer just for immoral behavior,” a police spokesman British tourists, who have caused the most said. trouble. The British Consulate decided to asThe flyers will be available in hotels, sume that responsibility. tourist information points and probably The city was glad the consulate stepped in at Balice International Airport, Gazeta because it didn’t want to single out visitors Wyborcza reported. from one country, said Izabela Helbin, head Some pubs in the city center have already of the city’s marketing and promotion office. begun posting signs saying “no stag parties.” The city didn’t want “to make the problem The idea is to try to prevent groups of young bigger than it really is,” she said. “Eight milforeign men from “hanging out” at a tavern lion tourists visit Krakow every year. Only a all night, getting drunk and unruly. Krakow small percentage” cause problems. has become a magnet for this kind of hellCity spokesman Filip Szatanik said raising. Dozens of web sites advertise the city officials want visitors “to have a good city as a place for wild stag parties. time.” The content of the flyer has already been The flyers were deemed a way of informcreated. It needs only to be approved and ing tourists that “Krakow is a historic city translated into English, Gazeta Wyborcza and it is necessary to stand on one’s dignity said. In addition to warning tourists about and respect certain principles,” he said. STAFF JOURNALIST The crackdown is inspired by the Zero Tolerance program that Rudy Guliani instituted when he was mayor of New York City. During the first weekend of Krakow’s crackdown, police made 24 arrests. Seven received fines that combined to total 650 zloty. Nowa Huta inhabited for 8,500 years Michal Wojtas STAFF JOURNALIST Remnants of a Neolithic settlement have been discovered at a building site in the northern part of Nowa Huta. Archaeologists found pottery, flint tools, several burrows and two graves and expect to discover more artifacts in the area. The excavations are being conducted on a site near ul. Okulickiego, where a housing estate is planned. Archaeological excavation is a standard procedure wherever historical finds are highly probable. Izabela Mianowska, who is in charge of the excavation, says it is hard to estimate the value of the findings at this stage as only 30 percent of the site has been explored. Mianowska says it also remains uncertain where the Neolithic settlement borders are. Artifacts from other cultures may also be found there so clarifying the dig’s origins may take a great deal of time. Remnants of a Neolithic settlement have been discovered on a building site in the northern part of Nowa Huta. Archaeologists found pottery, flint tools, several burrows and two graves. Archeologists have to be patient until further plots are bought by the building developer. They usually have a very short timeframe to find artifacts from the moment they are permitted to dig. That’s why this is called a “rescue excavation.” Aside from artifacts from the Neolithic settlement (from about 6500 BC), this site also contains findings from the early Bronze Age. It seems that humans have been settled there without many interim breaks. Nowa Huta, the easternmost district of Krakow, has been a place of rich archaeological findings since its first building development started in the early 1950s. Since then, more then 100 excavation sites have been discovered there. Frequent settlement was caused by the area’s rich soil, which provided good living conditions for the Neolithic civilizations already raising crops (wheat, barley, and rye) and domesticated farm animals such as cattle, pigs, goats and sheep. Road providing access to southern beltway is currently under construction Grazyna Zawada vent landslides. Another challenge is build- STAFF JOURNALIST A road is being built near Przegorzaly Castle to reduce traffic on one that is dangerous because of curves and landslides. The straighter stretch, on an incline between the Vistula River and Las Wolski Hills, will be 1,350 meters long and 7 meters wide. In addition to eliminating curves, the new stretch will include two other safety features – traffic lights and a bicycle path. The most difficult task facing the road builder, Energopol Company, is using a special technique involving slaked lime to pre- In addition to eliminating curves, the new stretch will include two other safety features – traffic lights and a bicycle path. ing it on a grade up to 7 meters higher than the existing one. “This road will definitely facilitate transportation between Krakow’s center and the beltway,” said Tadeusz Trzmiel, head of Infrastructure Programs in the Mayor’s Office. “In the future we plan to create a parking place in this area for tourist buses so they can be once and for all removed from the city center.” “There is also a plan for creating a ferry on the Wisla River so tourists who get off their buses in a parking area can use river transportation to the Old Town – definitely another tourist attraction,” said Janusz Tajster, the City of Krakow’s director of roads. The estimated cost of the project, which is to be finished in October, is 20 mln zloty. JOB OFFER: Marketing & Sales Manager Are you outgoing and reliable with at least two years of sales experience? Do you want to work with a young company that will offer you real growth potential? Send us your resume today: [email protected] ARKA NOEGO Our restaurant is located in one of the oldest buildings in Kazimierz. We serve all kinds of Jewish cuisine, based mostly on local recipes. Come to enjoy delicious Jewish dishes. Live klezmer music every night at 20:00. Open daily: 09:00-02:00 ul. Szeroka 2 +48 (12) 4291528 [email protected] www.arka-noego.pl 8 K R A K O W The Krakow Post AUGUST 2-AUGUST 8, 2007 Is Krakow a bike-friendly city? Indeed, special bike racks are a rare view in the center, not to mention in the suburbs. That’s the reason why so many bikes are often left locked to a tree or a pole. Anna Biernat Staff JOURNALIST Riding a bike in Krakow is a bit like playing an extreme sport – unless, of course, the cyclist is lucky enough to find a bicycle path. But bicycle paths are few and far between in Krakow, which is why it’s quite a stretch to call the city bike-friendly. And although the number of cyclists in Krakow is growing with each year, most agree that riding a bike in the city can be quite dangerous. “Car drivers ignore us. They just don’t see us,” says Michal, a 25-year-old cyclist from Krakow. “I’ve been riding a bike in Krakow for over four years. A cyclist needs to be at least twice as careful as a car driver,” he adds. Today, there are a dozen or so bicycle paths in Krakow, and several junctions that join the paths together. City authorities plan to create more, long bike paths leading to the districts situated further from the center. So far, Krakow has bike paths that make it easy for cyclists to reach the Krowodrza, Nowa Huta, Kurdwanow and Ruczaj districts. There is also a beautiful path along the Vistula River that starts in Niepolomice and ends in Tyniec. Of course recreational paths are a great. But what if we decide to treat a bike as a regular means of transport, instead of driving a car? In Western European cities, bicycle paths are laid to decrease the number of accidents and are generally situated on streets where cars are allowed to drive over 30 kilometers per hour. In Krakow, though, most bike paths were created for leisure rides, which makes it impossible to get to most places by using the paths alone, especially in the city center. Cyclists in Krakow are forced to ride on the sidewalks and narrow, overcrowded streets. When riding their bikes on the streets, cyclists need to consider the danger of approaching vehicles. Drivers seldom notice cyclists and tram rails are a serious threat to bikes with narrow wheels. Traffic jams are also a big problem. And when riding bikes on overcrowded sidewalks, many pedestrians respond with hostility. Despite the inconvenience, some cyclists feel comfortable riding their bikes in the city. “Apart from the city center, where streets are narrow, Krakow is a bike-friendly city,” says Anna Dabrowska, who rides a bike with her 2-year-old daughter in the back seat. “I think that the real problem is the lack of special stands where bikes can be parked.” Indeed, special bike racks are a rare view in the center, not to mention in the suburbs. This is the main reason why so many bikes are left locked to a tree or a pole. “If there are no stands, I have to look for an alternative,” says Michal while tying his bike to a fence outside of a pub on Rynek Glowny. The lack of bike-racks is also why so many bicycles are stolen. During the biking season at least one person per week reports a bike theft to police in Krakow. Despite the shortcomings, every year more and more cyclists are on the streets of Krakow. Bike rental companies also aren’t complaining. “Most of our clients are foreigners,” says a worker at the Rent-A-Bike store on ul. sw. Anny. When asked about which paths he recommends to clients, he replied: “The most popular route is the path along the Vistula River to Tyniec. We also recommend the area around Kopiec Kosciuszki.” Foreigners have mixed opinions about riding bikes in Krakow compared to their home cities. “It’s fun, although dangerous when you ride in streets together with cars,” say former Erasmus students who rented bikes and went to Zakrzowek Lake. “Also, the bikes weren’t very good,” they added, although conceding that riding a bike in Krakow is a good alternative to public transport. Bicycle routes both in and outside Krakow the krakow post Krakow is full of picturesque bike routes, but there are a few that deserve particular attention: 1. Vistula River Embankment Path This bike path begins in Tyniec, a historic village and today a Krakow borough, famous for its Benedictine abbey founded by King Kazimierz in 1044 CE. It leads through the center of Krakow, by Wawel Castle and runs further to Niepolomice, passing through Nowa Huta. 2. Rudawa River Route This is a typical recreational route. It is recommended to start the ride in Salwator or by the Juvenia Sports Club field at Blonia. After riding down to the river’s embankment, you should follow the path that leads about 5 kilometers straight ahead. Pass two bridges on the way, the last rail bridge is at the end of the path. The best way to come back is the same path unless you want to ride along the streets. 3. Osiedle Widok-Dolina Kluczwody-Wierzchowie-Krakow Route This path leads through the Widok housing development, Pasternik, Brzezie, Ujazd, Kluczwody Valley (Dolina Kluczwody), Wierzchowie, Murownia and Pradnik Korzkiewski. The route is 36 kilometers long. Ride out from Osiedle Widok and then through villages: Pasternik, Brzezie and Ujazd to reach the Kluczwody Valley, worth seeing in all of its length. In the village of Wierzchowie there is a mineral spring from Kluczwoda. A steep path near the spring leads to Grota Mamutowa (Mammoth’s Cave). After visiting the cave, ride up the valley. After about 0.5 kilometers you will reach the biggest cave in the Krakow Uplands, Grota Wierzchowska Gorna, situated on your right. Going further up the valley you will pass a row of rocks. Ride further east along a dirt road. After reaching the main road E22, ride it, on the way passing such villages as: Murownia, Bialy Kosciol, Wielka Wies. Turn left at the crossroad in Szyce and ride along a steep road to reach Pradnik Korzkiewski. Making your way towards Korzkwia, Januszowice and Zielonki, you will return to Krakow. 4. Szklarki Valley Route This path is about 15 kilometers long and leads through the most interesting parts of the Wyzyna Krakowsko-Czestochowska (Krakow-Czestochowa Uplands). The path starts in Zabierzow near Krakow. If you don’t want to ride a bike to Zabierzow, you can easily get there by train (15 kilometers). First, ride along the Rudawa River. Then, riding along a road you will pass Bolechowice and reach the exit of Bolechowicka Valley. Turn left and ride through Karniowice. The path leads to the north through fields and forests and reaches the red bike trail. Ride down to the upper part of Bedkowska Valley. Ride through it to reach the village of Jerzmanowice. Approaching the road, you will see the blue bike trail. This is the end of the green trail as well. The road provides a comfortable return trip. Turn left and through Szklary and Dubie ride to Rudawa (the train station). From here you can either ride 20 kilometers more to Krakow, or take a direct train to the city. A young group of local cyclists poses for The Krakow Post. K R A K O W AUGUST 2-AUGUST 8, 2007 The Krakow Post 9 Alert: Calling all blood donors Every summer brings a major crisis for Polish blood banks. This year has been more troublesome due to the excessive heat The country’s demand for blood increases by 8.5 percent each year. More than 1.5 mln transfusions were made last year. Vacationers are making use of the hot The shortage of blood was partially and sunny weather, spending the summer caused by a major slump in donors at the on the seacoast or in the country. Unforend of the 1980s. Many privileges for dotunately, this leaves the cities void of life. nors (such as free vitamins, public transEspecially the blood bank, which has been portation tickets and tax concessions) have left with insufficient amounts of blood for been liquidated. Many private companies their patients. aren’t willing to give employees a free, fulThe demand is high and many potential ly paid vacation day for blood donation. donors have left the cities for the holiday. According to the Polish Red Cross, an About 70 percent of donors are between institution organizing blood donation since 18 and 30 years old. Many people in this 1935, average donations per 1,000 inhabage group have left Poland to work abroad itants in Poland are 25, while in the West for the summer or longer. the average is between 40 and 60. Many of Newspaper headlines report delays of these counties subsidize blood donations. serious surgeries due to a lack of indispensActions are being taken to tackle the able blood. Even the most disproportion between common blood types, A bloods donated versus its Newspaper headlines positive and O positive, heavy demand. are running low while the report delays of serious This summer, posters most rare, O negative, is in Poland’s major cities surgeries because of a used only to save lives and are promoting donation lack of indispensable with the motto, “Be a Sufor pregnant women. Last week, Dr. Janusz blood. Even the most perhero, Donate Blood!” Skalski, chief of the Carwith pictures of ordinary common blood types, people as heroes saving diology Ward at the Children’s Hospital in Kra- A positive and O posi- lives. kow-Prokocim, donated main problem is tive, are running low theThe half a liter of blood and lack of sufficient dothen spent six hours perwhile the most rare, O nors to maintain adequate forming heart surgery on reserves. negative, is used only blood three-week-old Bartek. The infrastructure alto save lives and for The baby feels fine, but ready meets the average the blood reserves aren’t level in the EU, or may pregnant women. growing. even be slightly higher. Dr. Skalski describes the In Poland, blood can situation as “tragic.” During the year, more be donated at 300 points. than 50 donors visit the Krakow Regional Mobile donation centers also tour the Blood Donation Center on ul. Rzeznicza country, especially during the summer. every day. In the summer, there are no more Many non-governmental organizations than 30 donors. The same is true in other such as trade unions, scouts and student regions of Poland. unions cooperate with the PRC and blood Statistics say that a liter of blood is in debanks. Though donors aren’t paid for their mand every minute in Poland (1,500 liters blood, the process still generates costs. per day.) At most, half of the needed supply As Renata Kawka from the Polish Red is accumulated in blood banks in the counCross says, one liter of blood (two basic try’s larger cities. Major car accidents push donation units), costs 30 zloty in marketing the hospital staff to their limits. and the financial assistance from the MinisHospitals are having to call tens of meditry of Health is still not enough. cal institutions before they can find several One encouragement for blood donation units of a specific blood group. may be a change in the tax law introduced According to the Warsaw Institute of in February. Hematology, an institution that coordinates Donors will be able to subtract 130 zloty blood banks across Poland, blood donor from their income tax for each basic donanumbers rose from 499,000 to 525,000 in tion. While it’s not much, if combined with 2006. They donated about 450,000 liters of awareness, the move may coax many more the life-giving liquid. to help. LUK Agency Michal Wojtas STAFF JOURNALIST About 70 percent of donors are between 18 and 30 years old. Many people in this age group have left Poland to work abroad. Hard Rock Cafe heading to Krakow next year Alicja Natkaniec long tradition and army of fans. The first restaurant was founded in London in 1971 by Isaak Tigrett Dziennik Polski recently an- and Peter Morton. nounced next year’s opening of Hard Currently, there are over 143 Hard Rock Cafe in Krakow. Rock Cafes in 36 countries, with The first Polish several more in the Hard Rock Cafe works. The city’s growing began operating in The restaurant Warsaw in Februpopularity brought in is famous for colary 2007 in one of lecting souvenirs about 8 mln tourists the capital city’s of prominent mulast year. Hard Rock largest shopping sicians from all Cafe looks to cash in over the world. centers – Zlote on the trend. Tarasy. Autographed The restaurant, guitars, outfits close to 900 square from world tours meters and situated on two levels, at- and rare photographs are often tracts crowds of foreign tourists and mounted on the cafe’s walls. Warsaw’s residents. Today, the Hard Rock Cafe posKrakow’s growing popularity sesses the world’s largest collection brought in roughly 8 mln tourists last of famous music memorabilia. year, which encouraged the company A great part of the restaurant’s to cash in on the trend. success can be attributed to the incluKrakow’s Hard Rock Cafe, which sion of its own brand-merchandise will be located on Rynek Glowny, like shirts, hats, jackets, glassware, will hold its grand opening over the shot glasses, pins and more. next winter holiday season. In Krakow and Warsaw, visitors The total investment will amount will find authentic rock-music memto 3 mln euro. A third Polish Hard orabilia from Poland’s leading musiRock Cafe may open in Wroclaw. cians and rock’s most prolific stars. The Hard Rock Cafe is not just a Krakow’s rich culture and variety casual dining restaurant chain serv- of cultural events makes it an aping American cuisine. It’s remarkable propriate place for the famous Hard because of its special atmosphere, Rock Cafe’s next venture. staff journalist Picture of the big guitar at Hard Rock Las Vegas. 10 K A T O W I C E The Krakow Post AUGUST 2-AUGUST 8, 2007 Zabrze officials working hard to get two Silesian coal mines on prestigious UNESCO World Heritage List Alicja Natkaniec sTAFF JOURNALIST Zabrze officials are trying to get two Silesian coal mines on UNESCO’s World Heritage List. It’s not as preposterous as it seems. The area’s industrial landmarks, including factories, mines, mine-shaft towers and mountainous slag heaps looming over unique miners’ housing complexes, have been attracting international tourists. The locations that Zabrze officials are trying to get on UNESCO’s prestigious World Heritage List are the Krolowa Luiza (Queen Luiza) OpenAir Mine and the Guido mine, both of which are now mining museums. Slawomir Ratajski, general secretary of UNESCO’s Polish Committee, recently visited the mines with an eye toward recommending that UNESCO name them Historical Monuments, Gazeta Wyborcza reported. A site must obtain monument status before it can be put on the World Heritage List. The Krolowa Luiza mine is on the Industrial Monuments Route that Silesian officials dreamed up to promote tourism. One of the oldest Prussian coal mines in Upper Silesia, it has buildings dating to 1791. There are two parts to the museum. One is a ground-level machinery park where visitors may participate in demonstrations of old mining equipment. The second part of the museum is a 1.5 kilometer-long route 35 meters below ground where visitors can see 19th- and 20th-Century excavations. The most valuable historical artifact on the tour is a steam-powered trac- The locations that Zabrze officials are trying to get on UNESCO’s prestigious World Heritage List are the Krolowa Luiza (Queen Luiza) Open-Air Mine and the Guido mine. tion machine that the Prinz Rudolf foundry in Dülmen produced in 1915. Visitors can get a good view of the city from the 25-meter-high shaft tower platform. The Guido mine was operational from 1855 to 1982. In June of this year, 25 years after it closed, the mine was converted into a museum and opened to visitors. Tourists, dressed in miners’ clothes with lamps, take an elevator to a level 170 meters below the surface. There they can see excavations, mining equipment and stables, since horses hauled coal out in carts. A tour can be two, three or five kilometers long and takes two to three hours. Preparations are under way to be able to take visitors to a level 320 meters below the surface. The museum’s plans include creating an “art zone” space for cultural events. The World Heritage List contains 851 sites in 142 countries that are of special importance to mankind. Sixteen are in Poland, including Old Town in Krakow, the AuschwitzBirkenau State Museum and the Wieliczka Salt Mine. Once on the World Heritage List, sites can receive UNESCO funds for development, promotion and preservation. Silesian officials are trying to change the reputation of the region as a dirty, polluted mining and industrial area while also trying to cash in on its history. Thanks to their efforts, Silesia has become the region in Poland with the biggest appeal to international investors. And Silesian officials also have succeeded in getting tourists interested in some of the area’s now-closed mining and industrial complexes. The Guido mine was operational from 1855 to 1982. In June of this year, 25 years after it closed, the mine was converted into a museum and opened to visitors. Tool and Chris Cornell headline this year’s Metal Hammer Festival Americans open playground for children in Ruda Slaska For Tool, the main star of the festival, this will be their fourth visit to Poland since their first performance in 2001. Krzysztof Skonieczny staff journalist This year’s Katowice Metal Hammer Festival in Spodek Hall promises a feast for heavy metal fans, bringing together artists from all around the world and a range of genres. The festival will take place on Sunday, August 12, and features performances by Tool, Chris Cornell, Dir En Grey, and Polish groups Coma and Delight. For Tool, the main star of the festival, this will be their fourth visit to Poland since their first performance in 2001. The band, led by charismatic vocalist Maynard James Keenan nicknamed “King Crimson of the 21st Century,” has proven that its concerts are the best acts in metal-rock. Despite the complexity and technical difficulty of their pieces they transmit unbelievable amounts of energy and emotion to the crowd, making their shows an unforgettable experience. That being said, their most recent “10,000 Days” album release tour (2006) in Poland induced conflicting opinions among spectators. Although more or less everyone agreed that technically the sound and light show was perfect, with scenes from Tool’s music videos playing on large screens, some argued that the concert lacked inventiveness and was simply too short, lasting about 1.5 hours. This year’s U.S. tour, however, showed that the band is in great shape. The concerts seem to include many more improvised and unexpected elements. As a first-time visitor to Po- land, Chris Cornell is facing the overwhelming difficulty of pleasing everybody. Active since forming the grunge group Soundgarden in 1984, the artist has a lot of catching-up to do with the Polish audience. The rigid time discipline imposed by the one-day festival schedule seems a vicious foe. The artist doesn’t seem at all discouraged by this; his playlist includes songs of his famous ex-groups, Soundgarden and Audioslave, his two solo albums – including last May’s release “Carry On” featuring “You Know My Name” (the theme song from the latest James Bond movie “Casino Royale”) – and songs by the somewhat forgotten band Temple of the Dog. This was a single-record release in 1991 between Cornell and musicians who later created Pearl Jam. The collaboration commemorates the death of their friend Andrew Wood, the vocalist for Mother Love Bone. The Japanese band Dir En Grey came to Europe in 2005 after a successful eight- year career in Japan. Now associated with the metal genre, the group has evolved through punk rock, pop and progressive rock, finally combining them into a truly exotic fusion. Earlier this year the group has completed their first U.S. headlining tour after earlier performing alongside Korn. They were supported by Texas-born alternative rock band, Fair to Midland (discovered by Serj Tankian of System of a Down), during the Metal Hammer Festival. The international lineup is completed by experimental American hardcore band, Bury Your Dead. Poland will be represented by only two groups – Coma and Delight. However, the lacking quantity is made up for by the quality as both are the cream of the crop when it comes to grunge Polish music. Coma is probably the most important young alternative rock band in the country. Both of its albums, the 2004 “Pierwsze wyjscie z mroku” (“First Exit from Dusk”) and the 2006 “Zaprzepaszczone sily wielkiej armii swietych znakow” (“Forgiven Strengths of Great Holy Signs’ Army”) have received acclaim from fans as well as the industry, which granted both the Fryderyk award. The band Delight started out in 1997 in the small town of Skawina (near Krakow). The group’s career has recently shifted into high gear after winning the competition for Best Unsigned Gothic Art International during the Wave Gothic Treffen Festival in Leipzig in 2005. The band signed a contract with Roadrunner Records, one of the most important U.S. labels, which allowed Delight to publish a world-class record Braking Ground in 2007. Gates to Katowice’s Spodek Hall open at 15:00 and the Festival will begin at 16:00. Tickets to the event, costing 145-400 zloty are available via www.metalopolis.pl, www. ticketonline.pl, or www.eventim.pl and in selected stores around Krakow. Katowice is about 1.5 hours from Krakow by train and even less by car. Spodek Hall is a 15-minute walk from the train station or can also be reached using tramlines 11 and 13. Joanna Zabierek staff journalist A chute, wooden ladders, swings and a sand box – a whole new modern playground was built in Ruda Slaska thanks to the efforts of Americans from Alabama. “Just look at this,” said Blake Rymer pointing at a set of old, destroyed swings in the courtyard of a single mothers’ house. Rymer came to Ruda Slaska last week with a group of 18 Americans, which included students, engineers and computer scientists. The Americans are Baptists from Huntsville, Alabama invited by Grzegorz Skrobarczyk, leader of the Christian Foundation “The Youth with Mission,” who lived in Huntsville for a year. During his time there, he got to know the Baptist community well enough to know that if they meet an opportunity to help, they won’t hesitate to act. He was right. After telling them about the children’s situation, Huntsville’s Baptists organized a collection in their church. They managed to gather $2,500 and come to Ruda Slaska. All these people are volunteers. Last week they taught the children English, how to play American football and helped the kids build a new playground. They were happy that they could help and do something for the children from the district. Finally, the kids from Ruda Slaska have a real playground for the first time. And it’s not over yet. At Friday’s opening ceremony, to which all of Ruda Slaska’s children were invited, Rymer announced that after returning to Alabama they will organize another collection round. With the gathered money, Rymer wants to build another playground for children who live in a hostel by Halemba. Brazilian restaurant in the Old Town ul. Sw. Tomasza 28 We invite you every day from 12:00 p.m. Reservations: Tel.: (0) 12 422-5323 www.ipanema.pl AUGUST 2-AUGUST 8, 2007 A R T S & I D E A S The Krakow Post 11 David Lynch goes Polish Screenshot of Laura Dern as Nikki in David Lych’s film, “Inland Empire.” Soren A. Gauger STAFF JOURNALIST A dozen or so films and a cult television series into his career, and David Lynch’s ongoing quest for the weird – a cosmos made up of magical dwarves, circus freaks, severed ears and tractors – has taken him to Lodz, Poland. In “Inland Empire,” a mon- ster of a film clocking in at just under three hours, a Polish accent signifies an unstable, chaotic element in the otherwise hyperstructured landscape of Hollywood, a Polish folk tale may or may not place a curse on a pair of movie stars, and Lodz, home of Poland’s most important film school and cradle of such luminaries as Roman Polanski and Krzysztof Kieslowski, stars as the Wild West from Mexico to Thailand Soren A. Gauger gitte Bardot and Claudia Cardinale.” The next weekend’s (Aug. 10-12) theme is “The Very Weird West,” featurThe Kino Pod Baranami “Wystrzaing Kurosawa’s 1954 classic “The Seven lowe” [which translates as either “Shoot- Samurai,” the epic (160 minutes) tale of a Out” or “Cool”] Summer Film Festival small band of samurai hired to help clean is already half-over, having run through up a town from its invaders. some films more (“The Good, the Bad and Lots of action, dazzling cinematograthe Ugly,” “Butch Cassidy and the Sunphy guaranteed. A 2000 film called “The dance Kid”) and less (“Midnight CowTears of the Black Tiger” (Thailand) is a boy,” “Dead Man”) horse of a different color, affiliated with the a kind of star-crossed lovLots of action, dazCowboy/Wild West ers done in hyper-kitsch zling cinematography genre. Last week also technicolor as only the guaranteed. A 2000 offered some Central Thai know how. Will love European forays into film called “The Tears conquer all? And finally, the pseudo-American the weirdest of the lot of the Black Tiger” desert. (and probably the whole For next weekend (Thailand) is a horse of festival) is “El Topo” (The (Aug. 3-5) we can look a different color, a kind Mole), a Mexican film forward to the alwaysas “more of an of star-crossed lovers described compelling American experience than a film,” done in hyper-kitsch director John Houston about a nameless wanin one of his most fatechnicolor as only the derer who comes from the mous moments, a film desert with his gun to rid Thai know how. called “The Misfits,” the world of evil, and by featuring Marilyn the end of the film is deMonroe and a screenplay by Arthur Miller voting himself to helping the handicapped (“Death of a Salesman”). The other two and the midgets... films in this “Women of the Wild West” The final weekend (Aug. 18) will feaweekend include a melodrama called “Cat ture only the American 1974 comedy Ballou,” and a French film called “Les Pe“Blazing Saddles.” Has Mel Brooks’s hutroleuses,” about which the promotional mor survived into the 21st century more materials (!) have this to say: “The only or less intact? We here at the editorial ofattraction of this failure of a film is the fices are somewhat skeptical, but there’s performances of its two great stars – Brionly one way to find out. STAFF JOURNALIST anti-Hollywood, a dark industrial landscape where fairy-tale horse-drawn carriages trot down streets sparkling with snowflakes. As in “Mulholland Drive,” Lynch’s strategy here is to set up some narrative expectations in the first hour of the film, and then dash them to pieces in the remaining two hours as the storyline becomes a scattered and erratic thing that operates more through suggestion and association than linear day in fact become tomorrow? The viewer story-telling. But in “Inland Empire” this either makes a decision, or tries to juggle fragmentation goes on for so long that even these possibilities, this paradox, through the most narrative-bound the watching of the film. viewers must eventually But it is not so easy to A dozen or so films give in and start watching think a paradox, and as in a different way, a way and a cult television the paradoxes multiply that bears more similarity pile up, the viewer series into his career, and to watching video art than must eventually give up and David Lynch’s and submit to a general conventional cinema. The storyline, in brief, disorientation. ongoing quest for goes as follows. Our herThis is intensified, as oine Nikki (Laura Dern) the weird – a cosmos I have said, in the latter lives in an extravagant half of the film, where made up of magimanor, and is one day instead of narrative concal dwarves, circus tinuity we have repetition visited by a new neighbor with a Polish accent, who freaks, severed ears of images (a red lamp, a tells her that she will get monkey, men in rabbit and tractors – has a starring role in a new suits, a screwdriver) and film, and insinuates a bruirrational character develtaken him to tal murder. Nikki does inopment (Nikki begins as Lodz, Poland. deed get the part, in a roa sophisticate in a manor, mance based on a cursed later lives in a middlePolish legend, whose previous Hollywood class home, and by the end curses like a adaptation concluded with the mysterious sailor, has a face covered in bruises, and deaths of the two romantic leads. Nikki’s coughs up blood in a back alleyway in the jealous husband, also a Pole, might be company of homeless people). The effect homicidal, but in spite of this danger the of this is to make the material reality of this two romantic leads begin carrying their world a paper-thin layer, and to emphasize amorous activities off-screen. the fact that this is a film reality which can As a plot-line this all sounds quite conshift about as it pleases, without botherventional, and in the first hour Lynch plays ing its head too much about continuity and some fairly standard film-within-a-film natural laws. tricks. But much of what happens in the A certain segment of Inland Empire’s first hour is also much more subtle. For inviewers will no doubt miss the presence stance: when Nikki is visited by her lunatic of a “this-happened-then-this-happenedPolish neighbor, a woman who lives in a then...” narrative, and for them Lynch toss“brick house that cannot be seen from the es in occasional reminders of the original road” (shades of fairy-tale), the neighbor’s storyline, to create the impression that this rant slides from awkward pleasantries to delirious tale is somehow anchored. But macabre prophecy to crackpot philosophy when the camera is shown pulling away on the nature of time (“today might just be from Nikki in the last ten minutes of the tomorrow”), concluding with the statement: film, indicating that what we have been “For example, tomorrow you will be sitting watching is again a film-within-a-film, this on that couch...” Then the very next secresolves nothing. By then it is clear that ond the woman is gone and Nikki is in fact there is nothing to be gained from sorting sitting on the couch. And here the viewer out “film reality” from “film-within-film makes a choice – has (a) the film jumped reality,” and that the point of this Hollyforward in time, has (b) the film become wood/Lodz tale is that film and reality are the crazy woman’s prophecy, or has (c) toan indivisible experience. Polish Grotesque: Cinema of Marek Koterski Pawel Piejko STAFF JOURNALIST On Tuesday, August 7, a new initiative opens at Kino Pod Baranami featuring the Polish film “Ajlawiu,” directed by Marek Koterski, with English subtitles. Now foreigners can learn about Poland by watching locally produced films. Although this is not Marek Koterski’s best work, Kino Pod Baranami chose “Ajlawiu” as an easy introduction to Polish films for foreigners. Some of Marek Koterski’s films can even be called grotesque comedies, though some get closer to artistic, auteur cinema. Their specific quality may make them less amusing for some viewers, sometimes even appearing abusive. Koterski is a controversial director in Poland. His film “Porno” (“Porn”) is known as the first erotic Polish film. In “Dzien Swira” (“Day of the Wacko”) the protagonist uses an extreme amount of abusive language, despite being a Polish language teacher. He once said, “I am not a linguist. I use strong language to express feelings or deep thoughts… I think some abusive words have no equivalent in normal language.” He doesn’t omit excessive sex scenes either, saying, “Some of my friends say I might be slightly sexually overactive.” That is what can be expected from “Ajlawiu.” The main character, Adas Miauczyn- ski, is present in almost every film made by Koterski, excluding “Porno.” He is the main protagonist of “Ajlawiu,” as well. Adas Miauczynski evolves slowly in each film. In “Zycie Wewnetrzne” (“Inner Life”) he hates his wife who he will later divorce. She appears in other movies, too. For example, in “Nic Smiesznego” (“Nothing Funny”) she accidentally kills Adas. His relationship with his son in “Ajlawiu,” “Dzien Swira” and “Wszyscy jestesmy Chrystusami” (“We’re All Christs”), played by the director’s son Michal Koterski, is empty and false. Adas feels he failed as a father. Generally Adas doesn’t feel successful in anything. “Dzien swira” can be called a rant of the painful everyday life of a Pole. Poles generally like complaining about their surroundings, but Adas Miauczynski represents all of Poland’s problems in one, depressed, swearing character. “Nic smiesznego” emphasizes on professional failure. Adas Miauczynski is an unsuccessful filmmaker, but his sexual problems don’t disappear. Koterski’s cinema deals with the spiritual fall of a human being, revealed on the surface through overdeveloped sexual needs. Adas in “Zycie wewnetrzne” (“Life on the Surface”) always imagines himself having sex with neighbors. Sex in “Ajlawiu” sometimes appears as the most important aspect of the pair’s emotional life. “Porno” is an enormous collection of all the protagonist’s lovers. Adas changes as he gets older. In “Dzien swira” he dreams of a perfect woman who would accept all his little bizarre activities and needs. He seems to be aware that such a person does not exist, because he lives in his own imaginary world. Marek Koterski is one of the few Polish filmmakers to develop his own style. His name is already quite well known, giving him freedom to film what he really wants. Seeing “Ajlawiu” or his other films is certainly worthwhile as they contain some real characteristics of a specific Polish soul. 12 The Krakow Post A R T S & I D E A S AUGUST 2-AUGUST 8, 2007 Midnight accordian carnivalesques: Interview with Scotia Gilroy, Canadian expat English on the streets, so I guess things are changing. I’ve even had shop assistants answer me in English a few times lately, after hearing my accent, which is a very strange experience for me. It didn’t use to be like that at all. Q: Why did you choose Krakow? A: After deciding that we wanted to move to Poland, we read about a few different cities in a guidebook trying to decide which one sounded the most interesting. Krakow sounded great. We read about all the different festivals that take place here. We also read in the guidebook that every year, in June, the mayor of Krakow symbolically gives the keys of the city to all the students and they have a festival called – Juvenalia! Krakow seemed to be an unbelievable place, where people can be crazy, drink in the street, and wear costumes for a whole week and everybody accepts it, because it’s a tradition. I know an 80-year-old Polish woman who says she remembers Juvenalia in the 1930s. She told me that Juvenalia was so beautiful back then – the students played classical music in the streets. Nowadays everything has changed and become more obnoxious and violent, but nobody says Juvenalia must stop – because it’s a tradition, everybody accepts it. Q: Was it harder for you to become a musician here than it would have been in Vancouver? Scotia Gilroy left Vancouver seven years ago with the plan to become a musician. She came to Krakow to learn to play the accordion. Anna Fratczak editor-in-chief She left Vancouver seven years ago with the plan to become a musician. She came to Krakow to learn to play the accordion. One day in a smoky bar she heard an Australian woman, Sonia Maclean, playing her French horn in a rock and roll band. She felt that the sound of Sonia’s horn was perfect to go with her accordion and the “dark, carnivalesque” melodies she had recently been composing. They soon got together to jam. The songs, which fall into two main categories: experimental “reveries” (with loop pedal), and “circus theme songs,” came spilling out. Two months ago they became a real trio when they were joined by Rafal Kaczmarek, who drums in “Fox Gang.” They’ve just finished recording a demo CD and plan to record a full-length album soon. Two weeks ago, The Midnight Reverie Trio – together with other foreign musicians – performed in a music festival organized at pl. Szczepanski for Krakow’s 750th birthday. Q: Altogether there are about 11 expat bands. It seems we have a strong foreign musician community in Krakow. Do you feel yourself a part of it? A: I enjoy being friends with other expat bands. We play a lot of concerts together and support what each of us is doing, and benefit a lot from knowing each other. But I think it’s important to be careful not to get too closed off within an expat music community. We already feel that we’re somewhat outside of the scene, since our music is really different from what the other expat bands are doing. It’s a good scene – but I feel our band could benefit a lot from stepping outside, interacting with the Polish and European music scenes and generally having a dialogue with the society we’re living in. My wish is to play for Polish audiences as much as for “expat” ones. I don’t want to stay in an enclave. Q: Do you think an expat music enclave exists in Krakow? What does the expat music enclave in Krakow look like? A: Most of the expat bands in Krakow are loud rock-n-roll bands, party bands – playing music to dance and have a good time, too. Some of them have their own unique sound, for example, New Century Classics, Fox Gang, and Molus and Zapala. But still, most of the expat bands stay within typical American styles of music. Our music stands apart to begin with because it is strongly influenced by European musical heritage, rather than American. The sound of the accordion, alone, immediately gives our music a European feel. And a lot of our melodies are inspired by Polish folk tunes and klezmer music. But most of all we think of ourselves as a carnival band. It’s a kind of circus music, what we create, inspired by the old-time European carnival culture. Q: Where do you play your concerts? Where do the other foreigners perform? A: Most of the gigs happen in bars. It seems like the only type of venues that exist in Krakow are these really smoky, dark, underground bars. A lot of groups have their favorite places to play – such as B.Side, Tytus i Koka. Fox Gang has a regular place – Awaria. One of the members of Fox Gang told me that their relationship with Awaria is like the relationship the Beatles had to “The Cavern” – it’s a grungy little place where they play regularly and feel at home. I’ve played in various Krakow bars, including Tytus i Koka, Kawiarnia Naukowa, Pierwszy Lokal and Cafe Szafe. I always agree to play, but I’m not always comfortable in this type of venue. Most of the bars in Krakow are small and claustrophobic. I’m a non-smoker, so after I play in a horribly smoky bar, especially in winter when the windows aren’t open, I feel pretty sick. In Canada a band like ours probably wouldn’t be performing so often in bars like that. In Vancouver there are a lot of art spaces, created in old factories or abandoned houses. Artists rent these places and create “art spaces” – venues for concerts, exhibitions, dance and theater performances, and parties. This kind of space is where I wish I could be playing music. There’s a much better atmosphere, one of the main reasons being that all the people at the show have come there solely to see the show. In bars it’s different. Some people have come to see the show, while others are there just to drink. I’m sure in Krakow there are a lot of big abandoned buildings that could be turned into interesting artistic venues. But you need a group of musicians and artists who are interested in getting together to rent it out. There are a lot of these places in Berlin, but so far I haven’t seen any in Krakow. Q: You plan to record a CD soon. Has any expat band already done it in Krakow? A: I think a lot of them have put out CDs, all self-released as far as I know. None of the groups are on a label, though some of them are probably looking for one. I would like our band to eventually be signed to a small, independent label which puts out interesting, experimental music. For now we’re happy being independent. Q: Why did you come to Krakow? A: I came here to learn to play the accordion. It was one of my big reasons. I became interested in Eastern and Central Europe while I was studying English literature at Simon Fraser University in Vancouver. The literature program at my university was very Anglo-centric – only British, American, and Canadian literature. I became more and more interested in Eastern Euro- pean literature. By my last year of studies I had decided to move to Eastern Europe to teach English after I finished my degree. Then, during my last year of studies I fell in love with someone who had exactly the same plan: to escape from the commercial, consumerist, banal reality of Vancouver. But we didn’t know exactly where. During the last month of our studies we discovered the Polish writer Bruno Schulz. When you read the first page of “Cinnamon Shops” you feel yourself hurtled into a completely new world because of his incredibly unique use of language. I was dazzled by Bruno Schulz. It seemed to me that nobody else, either before him or since, has written so beautifully. It was this book that first got us thinking about Poland. We became curious about Polish literature, so we next bought Czeslaw Milosz, “The Captive Mind,” then books by Witkacy and Gombrowicz. We thought Poland must be a very intelligent, interesting country. My husband and I both write. We felt Schulz was closer to us than any English-language writer. Q: What was your first impression of Poland? Were you disappointed? You first came here eight years ago. Has anything changed? A: When we first came it was an amazing feeling to be in a new country where everything was so alien, unfamiliar. We didn’t know beforehand what Polish society was like; we didn’t know anything about the way Polish people think. Our first impression was that Poland seemed to be very old-fashioned, magical. We were surprised at how religious Krakow was – a center of Catholic culture where people come to train to be priests, nuns and monks. In multicultural Vancouver, where there’s a constant striving for equality between all religions and cultures, a Catholic procession on the street would be unheard of, so this was very exotic for us. It was fairly easy to learn Polish, because from the beginning of my life here it was total immersion. Some foreigners I now know tell me that they get around by speaking English all the time, and this really surprises me. When I first came here eight years ago I had the impression that it was impossible to communicate with anyone in English, even if I had tried to. It was Polish from the very start – all of my shopping, interacting on the streets, making friends. But these days I’m hearing more and more A: For me it’s a lot harder here. In Vancouver there’s a really good experimental, independent music scene, more open-minded than I’ve discovered here. For rock-n-roll bands it’s probably easy to fit in here. But on the other hand, in terms of folk music it’s much better to be here. I wouldn’t be able to hear any of it in Canada. I spent my first year here looking for a good accordion, and when I found one I bought it and began teaching myself to play by ear. I just recorded every accordion I heard on the streets for about five years. I listened to these tapes at home over and over again. The music that interested me the most was the music I heard played by Romanian Roma. I wanted to play it. I met a Romanian Roma named Ivan, probably the best accordionist in Krakow, and I invited him to my home to teach me. He told me that he had no idea how to teach, so I asked him to just play for a few hours, allowing me to record him, sometimes stopping to show me some special things he was doing. Now I’m also starting to play the mandolin. At the moment I’m very happy here. For me it’s almost like magic when you find other musicians with whom you can work. Maybe I would have found interesting musicians to work with in Vancouver, too, if I had stayed.... but it’s true that no matter where you are born and raised it always feels easier to find good opportunities if you uproot yourself and go to a different place. There’s a new kind of courage that comes to you. It’s kind of like putting on a costume when you first move to a new country. You can create a new identity for yourself. I don’t know if I would have had the courage to decide one day that I was tired of teaching and that I was going to make money playing my accordion dressed in a flower costume, if I had stayed in Canada! I think this is true for everybody but it takes different forms. For me it’s to be an accordionist. British stag party guys can be someone new too. Maybe back in London they have a very normal life, they work in an office. But when they come to Krakow for a stag party, they can lie drunk in the street, completely naked or wearing a dress. Could they do this in London, where a lot of people know them? You can be someone new when you travel – it’s true for everyone. You can find new energy, make a new career, create a new identity. Scotia Gilroy plays accordion in The Midnight Reverie Trio. www.myspace.com/themidnightreverietrio She also does musical story-telling shows for kids in English as “Rosie the Accordion-Playing Rose.” www.myspace.com/accordionrosie AUGUST 2-AUGUST 8, 2007 A R T S & I D E A S Close-kept secrets of a wild Siberia The Krakow Post 13 Ukrainian art crossing borders: Paintings of artist Viktor Gadjuk for sale at local exhibition Ukrainian artist Viktor Gajduk (1926-1992). Wojciech Zaluski Staff JOURNALIST On Friday, August 3, the W&L Gallery opens a new exhibition presenting paintings of the Ukrainian artist Viktor Gajduk (19261992) at 18:00. The event starts the exhibition cycle “Ukrainian Landscape” during which visitors will have a chance to see artists’ works from between 1950 and 1970. Every ten days a new artist’s work will be exhibited, beginning with Viktor Gajduk, then Alexander Fiesiuk (1914-2001), Viktor Szwetz (1934-1994) and Boris Yegorow (1934). The artists focused on showing the beauty of their motherland in the southern regions of Ukraine. They used the national tradition of Ukrainian landscape paintings, which enabled them to express their personal feelings and attitudes more freely during the Soviet era. Inspired by the work of Paul Cezanne and Walenty Korowin, among oth- ers, they introduced the style called “Soviet impressionism.” The specific use of color gives their work a vibrant lightness and the effect of original perspective. Their work is also an example of how “art can cross the political borders,” reveals Walery Jemtsew, president of the association “Art without Borders” which owns the Gallery. “The association has existed for 14 months. Its members are artists, art historians and interested individuals from France, Ukraine and Poland. The association promotes art as a universal medium, the content of which can be understood worldwide. Ukraine is a dynamic and fast changing country and the exhibition is a chance to see and learn more about its culture as this is a country with which Poland is organizing the Euro 2012 games. It is also another step in tightening the relations between Ukraine and the EU.” The exhibition can be seen starting at 18:00 on Friday, August 3, on ul. sw. Jana 30, at the W&L Gallery. As befitting to every good book, whether a comic or a novel, “Alma” has a deeper meaning hidden beneath the main plot. Anna Widlarz staff journalist It took Michal Galek and Mariusz Zabdyr several years to create the comic book “Alma.” And the result of their work is quite impressive: a rather thick black book with a hard cover and content which (fortunately) has nothing to do with light reading. It’s October 16, 1925 – the time when a team of enthusiastic scientists embarks for Siberia. In this unwelcoming wilderness they look for Alma, a cross between a man and a cat – the alleged missing link. They expect that the task they endeavor to accomplish will be tough and demanding but they don’t take into account that not only Alma has its secrets in Siberia… Mariusz Zabdyr, illustrator of “Alma,” and Michal Galek, the comic writer, were both members of the no longer existing “Krakowski Klub Komiksowy” (“The Krakow Comic Club”), which published the first issue of “Alma” in March 2002. After several issues appeared in print, the writers started working on the full-length comic book. Although it is quite thick, it contains only the very essence necessary to follow its plot and make the book “unputdownable.” And, as befitting to every good book, whether a comic or a novel, it has a deeper meaning hidden under the surface of the main plot. To my mind, “Alma” raises the question of the price of pursuing our dreams, and, above all, whether it’s really worth paying. All that’s left is to read it yourself and see what “Alma” is about for you. Surfaces of paper – Modern art in Manggha Center of Japanese Art Krzysztof Skonieczny staff journalist The Manggha Center of Japanese Art and Technology offers anyone interested the opportunity to get acquainted with Polish modern art. An exhibition entitled, “The Surface of the Wind” by Jagoda Krajewska opens on Friday, August 3, at 19:00. The artist will be present at the show’s opening. Krajewska, born in Lodz, studied at the Academy of Fine Arts in her hometown between 1973 and 1978. An exceptionally active artist, she is a member of GROUP IXION and World Craft Council Poland. Her works in the fields of tapestry, paper-art, photography, painting and computer-design have been exhibited around the world, including in Mexico, Germany, Japan, the U.S. and Hungary. “The Surface of the Wind” focuses on paper art. The exhibition title is also the title of one of her works, in which she tries to give shape to the elements with phonebook pages. The piece is part of a larger venture to present her artistic interpretations of other elements – such as light, water or shadow – by using solely yellow pages as material. Krajewska’s artistic goal is to push the boundaries of art until it will be able to ex- press what was never in its space before and see it in new perspectives. Professor Ewa Latkowska believes that Krajewska’s most important goal is, in the artist’s own words, to “express something that exists between a thought and a glance.” The Manggha Center is on ul. Konopnickiej 26, right across Wisla from the Wawel Castle. You can get there by tram – lines 1, 2, 6 (get off at stop “Most Debnicki”), or lines 18, 19, 22 (stop “Rondo Grunwaldzkie”) – and by bus – lines 100, 103, 112, 114, 124, 124, 128, 162, 164, 173, 179, 184, 194, 439, 444 (stop “Rondo Grunwaldzkie). The Center is open daily (except Mondays) from 10:00 to 20:00. Gallery W&L The only gallery with genuine Russian and Ukrainian art in Krakow. Open Daily: 11-20 ul. sw. Jana 30 [email protected] 14 The Krakow Post A L T E R N A T I V E C O N S U M E R AUGUST 2-AUGUST 8, 2007 Wielopole 15: Clubbing in Krakow days, caters to the guys with a discount on beer. Women’s Night is Saturday. In addition to having regular promotions, Kitsch organizes theme parties. One of the most talked-about was Valentine’s Day, when bartenders dressed as barmaids. The club also organizes shows of drag queens and kings, events that actually seem to be more popular with straights than gays. The club’s quirkiness makes it an international favorite. “There are people from all around the world, from Belgium, Denmark and even from the U.S.,” said manager Bartosz Trojnacki. Admission is free, except on concert nights. There is one dress-code no-no: People in tracksuits are not allowed in. The club staff screens customers at the door to try to weed out possible problems. Lubu Dubu Most in the Wielopole 15 crowd don’t come to party at the Paradox. They want something more exotic. Mateusz Zuravik staff journalist At first glance Wielopole 15 looks like a neglected apartment building. But the three-story structure, squeezed between a hairdresser’s shop on the left and a second-hand shop on the right, is one of the liveliest music venues in Krakow. In fact, every floor from the basement to the top boasts clubs. On the ground floor, with its own entrance, is Paradox, which is different from the other clubs because it is the kind of disco you see all over Poland with flashing lights and vivid colors on the walls. Robert Mackiewicz, an economics student from Warsaw, says most of those in the Wielopole 15 crowd don’t come to party at the Paradox. They want something more exotic. The main entrance to the building welcomes you with peeling paint and a dirty staircase. The walls are covered with posters advertising special events at the most popular clubs, Kitsch, Lubu Dubu and Caryca. When the clubs started, customers thought they were different rooms of the same establishment. Some bought beer in one club and tried to take it into another. Over time, club-goers learned that each venue had different décor, music and clientele. Kitsch Kitsch is one of the most famous clubs in Krakow. The May 27 issue of The New York Times cemented its reputation by calling it a club worth visiting. The name suggests unsophisticated music and ambience – and some would say that’s the case. Many Krakow clubbers consider it a gay club, but Kitsch didn’t start that way four years ago and has a mix of customers today. It began attracting gays in its early days because of its tolerance – and at one point most PROFESSIONAL, TRAINED EDITORS Let our trained, professional editors re-stylize your books, reports and documents. Our editors have years of experience working for major newspapers and publishing houses. Email: [email protected] Tel.: 511 076 266 of its customers were gay. But two years ago the club embarked on a successful effort to broaden its base. The second-floor club is dark but spacious – a result of two former apartments being combined. Walls and doors are covered with peeling paint in pink and light blue, and the furniture looks as if it had been bought at a flea market, yet the interior is inviting. Kitsch consists of several rooms, one with a dance floor and others with tables and chairs. Over-all, the establishment is cozy and comfortable, but its restrooms should be avoided. The music fits the club’s name. It’s mostly vintage or new disco hits from the likes of Michael Jackson, Madonna and Aqua that attract people of all ages. A recent show that the nearly 60-year-old star Grazyna Lobaszewska put on at Kitsch attracted a lot of young people. There is a special promotion every day of the week. For example, Men’s Night, on Wednes- Lubu Dubu, on Wielopole’s first floor, is the building’s oldest club, founded five years ago. Manager Jaroslaw Daniel maintains that anyone who comes to Krakow also comes to Lubu Dubu. There’s a lot of truth to that. Customers ranging from 18 to 40 – and sometimes older – boogie to Polish and foreign disco tunes from the 1970s and 1980s. The club wants its guests to get a feel for the old days of communism. To that end, it is crammed with posters and artifacts from those days. The club’s interior is bright in daytime and dark at night because some windows are not covered, as they are in other clubs in the building. Small tables look as if they were strewn around the rooms by accident. When the club was starting, the owners saved money by buying second-hand furniture. Customers got used it. Now items such as a 30-year-old counter are key attractions. Lubu Dubu’s service is excellent and the staff kind. It’s a great place for those who like to chat with bartenders. And it’s one of the few Krakow clubs with air conditioning. But the restrooms are dirty – a problem with the whole building. On the club’s concert nights you can hear such top Polish bands as Coma or Kombajn do Zbierania Kur po Wioskach. On some holidays there are special events. For example, on May 1, the old Communist May Day, the club throws a party on a red bus that tours the old worker’s enclave of Nowa Huta. The idea is based on the famous song from the 1950s, “Czerwony Autobus” (Red Bus). Besides music parties, Lubu Dubu used to organize movie screenings. This year it teamed up with the Alchemia Club to hold an Alternative Culture Festival. Classical Guitar Catering Caryca When people first heard the name Caryca, some thought it was an escort service. The word “caryca” in Polish means “empress,” and in the club’s windows you can often see red lights. It does have a different ambience than the other clubs in the building, but not an escortservice ambience. Caryca is on the first floor opposite Lubu Dubu. When you enter, you must go through two rooms before reaching the bar. The club has a twilight cast to it, day or night, that fits the reggae music that is one of its mainstays. Caryca has soft sofas and small tables. None of the furniture matches. The club is full of corridors. One leads to the bar, another to the restroom, which is the smallest of all those in the building. The music is less commercial than that in Kitsch and Lubu Dubu. In addition to reggae, it includes electronic and drum and bass. The club’s top concert band is Electro Candy, a regular fixture. Most of the crowd is young; many are foreigners. Caryca often holds reggae or electronic parties. It co-organized with Kitsch this year’s Eight Days of Culture festival. In the club there are reminders of a Vlepka (Sticker) Festival. One wall is covered with small stickers made by artists themselves. Management says the Sticker Festival is an example of Caryca’s support for alternative art. As part of the festival fun, the club showed funny vides from YouTube and other Internet portals. The club achieved notoriety as the location of a Playboy photo shoot several months ago. If you are lucky, you can meet movers and shavers there, like the editor of the Polish edition of Playboy, Marcin Meller. Patrick Connors, a 34-year-old engineer from Sheffield, England, likes Caryca because it combines the ambience of an old inn with the newest trends in music. “Anytime I come here to Krakow, I visit this place,” he said. “I just love the drinks and the music.” Admission is free except for concert nights. A footnote When the clubs opened four and five years ago, neighbors complained about the people going in and out. Now they’re used to it. The club managers say there is no rivalry among the establishments. Customers often jump from one club to another. The clubs advertise together, and when one runs out of beer, it borrows some from another one. 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