2014 Surf Guide - Daily Surf Videos

Transcription

2014 Surf Guide
Intro by Matt Rott
As long as history has been recorded, surfing has always been synonymous with travel. Dating back
to interisland surfaris in pre-contact Hawaii and the slow but steady spread of the art throughout
Polynesia, the allure of new waves in new places rich with new people and cultures has always
been strong with the wave riding population. Add to this the fact that most of our surfing ancestors
were accomplished watermen—and by definition the best equipped for voyages to distant lands—
and it is only natural that, 20 generations later, we as the heirs to their legacy should be bitten so
hard by the travel bug. Maybe it’s the perpetual motion of the sea that draws us; perhaps it’s
simply in our spiritual DNA. Whatever the case, the compulsion to search can be as strong as the
compulsion to ride, and what typically begins as an innocent frolic at our local beach often
develops into an excuse to see the world.
Bruce Brown’s The Endless Summer is often tipped as the catalyst for the modern era of surf
exploration, but pockets of dedicated wave riders were charting coastlines decades before Brown
brought surf travel to Hollywood. Early exploration of Southern California led naturally to forays
into Baja and eventually Mainland Mexico, while the development of rudimentary wetsuits allowed
for exploration north of San Francisco. Meanwhile, Australians were busy charting their own
coastlines. Soon, the most accomplished from both continents began making yearly pilgrimages to
Hawaii.
“Bruce Brown’s The Endless Summer is often tipped as the
catalyst for the modern era of surf exploration.”
With no fanfare and little documentation, a handful of intrepid explorers started looking further
afield, riding cargo freighters around the globe and sharing the surf gospel with locals in any
number of African, European and Asian countries. Soon these foreign enclaves of stoke grew
beyond their geographic limitations, with the natural response being greater regional exploration
and new discoveries. By the time Brown and his subjects loaded boards and camera gear, garbed
themselves in snazzy suits and purchased a fistful of airline tickets (laying the foundation for the
modern jet-set ideal—minus the suits!), surfing was already a global happening. All that remained
was for this phenomenon to be documented.
Today, with relatively cheap and convenient travel options, surf-centric tour operations in nearly
every known surf zone and Google Earth beaming a God’s-eye view of the planet’s coasts into
every home with a computer and Internet connection, it would seem that the age of discovery has
passed—that our oceans have no more secrets to keep. Fortunately, this could not be further from
the truth. Although it is easy and often tempting to simply follow in the footsteps of those who
have come before us, using their hard-won knowledge and a number of online forecasting tools to
guarantee that we score waves during our precious few weeks of holiday, for those willing to trade
a sure thing for the thrill of adventure there are still thousands of new lineups to be charted.
Whether they require arduous voyages to uninhabited Pacific atolls, patiently waiting for a
monsoon swell in the South China Sea or simply taking the time to check an out-of-the-way corner
during a swell of uncommon direction, these lineups are ours for the finding. All we have to do is
look.
“All
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we have to do is look.”
Copyright © 2013 Surf Sleep Travel. All rights reserved worldwide.
Table of Contents
Africa
Morocco---------------------------5
Reunion Island---------------------9
South Africa---------------------10
Asia
China----------------------------12
Japan----------------------------15
MalaysiA-------------------------16
PhilippinES-----------------------19
Taiwan--------------------------22
Vietnam--------------------------24
QueenslanD-----------------------33
South AustraliA------------------35
Sydney---------------------------37
Tasmania------------------------39
Victoria--------------------------41
Western Australia----------------42
Caribbean
Barbados-------------------------43
Dominican Republic----------------45
Jamaica--------------------------47
Puerto Rico-----------------------49
Central America
Atlantic Islands
Azores--------------------------26
Canary Islands-------------------28
Australia
Costa Rica-----------------------51
Ecuador--------------------------54
El Salvador----------------------56
Nicaragua-----------------------58
Panama--------------------------60
New South Wales------------------30
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europe
France---------------------------62
Ireland--------------------------65
Italy----------------------------67
Portugal-------------------------69
Spain----------------------------73
United Kingdom
Cornwall------------------------76
Devon----------------------------78
Hawaii
Big Island-----------------------80
Kauai---------------------------82
Maui-----------------------------84
North Shore----------------------86
South Shore-----------------------88
Indian Sub Continent
Andaman Islands------------------90
India----------------------------92
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Maldives-------------------------94
Sri Lanka------------------------97
Indonesia
Bukit Peninsula-------------------99
Offseason Bali-------------------102
Java----------------------------104
Sumatra------------------------106
Sumbawa------------------------108
Lombok--------------------------110
Mentawai Islands-----------------112
Mexico
Baja Norte----------------------115
Baja Sur------------------------117
Oaxaca-------------------------119
NEw Zealand
North Island--------------------120
South Island---------------------123
Pacific Islands
UNITed States
Fiji-----------------------------125
Guam---------------------------128
Marshall Islands-----------------130
Micronesia----------------------132
Rapa Nui (Easter Island)-----------134
Samoa--------------------------136
Tahiti--------------------------138
Tonga--------------------------140
Alaska--------------------------153
South America
Florida-------------------------161
New England---------------------163
New Jersey----------------------165
New York------------------------167
North Carolina------------------169
Brazil--------------------------142
Northern Chile-------------------144
Northern Peru--------------------146
Southern Chile-------------------148
Southern Peru--------------------150
United states West Coast
Northern California--------------155
Southern California--------------157
Oregon--------------------------159
United States East Coast
Canada
West Coast----------------------171
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Africa
Morocco
The great European escape, Morocco is North Africa’s premier surf zone, and only a short jaunt
across the Strait of Gibraltar from Spain. With a vibrant local culture and dozens of world-class
waves (including a number of long, sand-bottom righthand points), Morocco is arguably the best
Arabic surf destination in the northern hemisphere.
Picture thanks to Surf Star. Find out more about staying here.
The Surf: Morocco is best known for its endless sand-bottom righthand points, but also has a
number of gnarly slabs and rippable beach breaks on offer, as well as a huge amount of unexplored
coastline. In general, this should be considered an intermediate to advanced destination, although
many Euro backpackers visit Moroccan surf schools and camps to learn to surf.
Five Waves Worth Surfing:
Anchor Point: Morocco’s most famous wave—and one of its best—Anchor Point is a long sand-bottom
righthand point that offers endless walls and racy tube sections.
Killer Point: Another of Morocco’s best waves, this righthand point peels seemingly forever.
Money Wave: Named for a nearby factory that was once featured on the 1,000-dirham note, Money Wave
is a righthand point that gets less attention than some of the country’s other waves, but is often just as good.
Mystery Point: Yet another righthand point located near to Killer Point outside of Taghazoute.
The Boiler: A fun righthand point with a rusty, submerged shipwreck nearby.
The Water: Somewhat dirty in residential and industrial areas, but clean and electric blue
elsewhere. Surface temperatures range from 63 to 70 F (17 to 21 C).
The Season: Fall and winter (September through February) are the prime months in Morocco,
with consistent surf and good weather.
The Vibe: There is a solid local surf population in Morocco, and a lot of Euros come down on road
trips to stay at surf camps, do feral independent missions or simply chase swells. The most popular
spots can be quite crowded, so either bring your A-game or go exploring—there is a lot of empty
coastline waiting to be discovered.
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Featured places to stay & surf:
Surf Star | View Details
Camino Surf | View Details
Surf Berbere | View Details
Surfinn Anchor Point | View Details
Marocsurfcamp | View Details
Things To Do: Morocco’s Arabic culture is vibrant and exotic, making the country more than just
a one-dimensional destination. Marrakech is a large city in Northern Morocco that is popular with
tourists and backpackers.
Surf Schools:
The Spot Morocco – Our English/Moroccan-run surf camp offers unbeatable surf getaways to enchanting Morocco Address: Route D'Essaouira, Tamraght, Agadir | Phone: +212 648 552088
Where To Stay: Morocco has a large number of surf camps and surf tour operators, but it is also
possible to do the country independently. Get a good 4x4 caravan that can handle exploration but
is also comfortable for sleeping and you will be traveling in style.
Surf Camps:
Aloha Surf Camp Maroc – Located 300 metres from the beach and a 10-minute drive from
Agadir. - Find on Surf Sleep Travel Address: Tamraght, Maroc
The Spot Morocco - Surf camp accommodation in a stylish villa walking distance from the beach and surf
spots - Find on Surf Sleep Travel Address: Route D'Essaouira, Tamraght, Agadir
|Phone:+212 648 552088
Dynamic Loisirs Surf Camp & School - Clean comfortable accomodation, surf school, amazing food. - Find on
Surf Sleep Travel Address: Tamraght, Aourir | Phone: 00212661259838
What To Bring: A shortboard—the faster the better. Many of the region’s points are down-theline racetracks, so come prepared. It is also advisable to bring all surf accessories you’ll require, a
good 4x4 vehicle, camping gear, a week’s worth of food and water, and anything else you might
need to survive in the desert.
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Getting There: Many European visitors come across the Strait of Gibraltar on a ferry, but it is also
possible to fly into Mohammed V International Airport (the country’s biggest) or Agadir Al Massia
Airport, which is the closest international airport to Taghazoute. Tourist visas not required for
citizens of many countries. Airport codes: AGA (Agadir) and CMN (Mohammed V).
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Click Here to Return To ContenTs
Reunion Island
France’s “other” overseas island department is often overlooked amidst the hype surrounding
Tahiti’s infamous break at The End of the Road, but this island off the east coast of Africa is
noteworthy in its own right, both for breathtaking landscapes and world-class waves. A thriving
tourist destination for French travelers, Reunion has seen its popularity decline with the surfing
population in recent years (due to lack of exposure and a recent rash of shark attacks), but there is
a reason Rip Curl ran the original Search event at St. Leu—Reunion’s marquee spot remains one of
the best tropical lefthand reef points in the world.
The Surf: Breaking over coral reef, the waves on Reunion range from long, perfectly rippable
points to heaving slabs. Depending on what breaks you choose to surf, this destination caters to
surfers in the intermediate to expert range.
St. Leu: Reunion’s crown jewel, St. Leu is a long, symmetrical lefthand reef point with
endless high performance potential and a hollow barrel section.
Etang-Sale-les-Bains: A punchy beach break on the same side of the island as St. Leu, this is
a good option when other spots are too small, but tends to get out of control when the swell is
pumping (which is often).
St. Pierre (The Jetty): A shallow, powerful right (and left for the suicidal), this wave is
consequential, but rewards the courageous with heaving barrels.
La Pointe au Sel: A fast, critical lefthand reef point that is typically less crowded than St. Leu,
but more exposed to the wind.
St. Gilles-les-Bains: A well-developed beach scene popular with bikini-clad tourists, St. Gillesles-Bains has a number of quality reef breaks, and is a great option if you are looking to mix
business with pleasure.
The Water: While Reunion’s water has that typical tropical blue flavor, developed areas can be a
bit dirty, and poor river mouth visibility after rains means a higher likelihood of shark attack.
Surface temps range from 73 to 83 F (23 to 28 C), which means you’ll never need more than a
2mm wetsuit top, or a spring suit at the very most.
The Season: Winter swells hammer Reunion’s west coast between April and October, while
summers (December through February) see the odd cyclone swell on the sharkier, less-surfed east
coast.
The Vibe: Reunion has a lot of surfers, and many of them are quite good. It is possible to
encounter negative vibes on the island, particularly if you bring a bad attitude to a crowded spot
(such as St. Leu), but the real danger in the water is the huge population of aggressive sharks.
Although Reunion’s aquatic carnivores have been infamous for decades, a recent rash of attacks in
2012 actually resulted in the controversial authorization of shark culling in the St. Leu region (the
policy was ultimately withdrawn due to public outrage). Whether or not you agree with this policy,
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Region | Africa
be aware that Reunion is one of the sharkiest destinations out there.
Things To Do: Reunion is a unique hybrid of tropical paradise and austere volcanic moonscape,
making the island an incredible destination for hikers, naturalists and other outdoor enthusiasts.
Reunion also has an active nightlife catering to the throngs of French tourists, so you’ll never be
short of entertainment.
Where To Stay: Reunion is a major French tourist destination, and has extensive infrastructure to
support visitors (i.e., lots of quality hotels). Like other French outposts, however, it is an extremely
expensive destination to visit, so go prepared to spend.
What To Bring: A shortboard and a step-up. A bag full of surf accessories, as gear will be quite
pricey on-island. A good pair of hiking boots, a pocketful of cash, your A-game if you hope to get in
with the French ladies and a Speedo™ if you want to fit in with the French men.
Getting There: Since Reunion is a French department, convenient flights are available out of
Paris (which explains the hordes of French tourists). For the rest of us, connections through South
Africa or Mauritius are a good option, with Roland Garros International Airport being the main
gateway onto the island. Reunion has its own border laws that differ slightly from those of France,
but visas are not required for citizens of many countries. Airport code: RUN.
South Africa
Sharks, point breaks and big waves typically come to mind when one thinks of South Africa—and
rightly so. The country has all three in spades, in addition to slabby reefs, world-class beach breaks,
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Region | Africa
the longest running pro surfing event and a core, committed surf community. It also has
frighteningly elevated levels of crime, corruption and AIDS, but this hasn’t kept South Africa from
becoming far and away the most popular surf destination on the African continent—and one of the
most popular in the world.
The Surf: Perfect, endless righthand points—yes, the country is loaded with them. But the beach
breaks, reefs and big-wave bombies can all be just as good, so South Africa is far from a one-trick
pony. Although there are beginner-type waves in the region, year round cold water means the
average visitor is already an experienced waterman, and in general the country should be
considered an intermediate to expert destination.
Jeffery’s Bay: This one is a no-brainer. J-Bay is widely considered to be the best righthand point in the world,
and if you haven’t heard of it, you probably wax the bottom of your board.
Bruce’s Beauties: Cape St. Francis—the real star of Bruce Brown’s hugely influential Endless Summer—
might have been a cleverly fabricated (and edited) lie, but it will forever maintain its place in history as the
inspiration for our collective search for the perfect wave. This righthand point break is long but fickle.
Ballito: What started in 1966 as the Gunston 500 (currently called the Mr. Price Pro) is now one of the
biggest and longest-running contests in the history of the sport—and there is a reason it’s held on the beaches of
Ballito every year. Quality and consistency make this a must-surf for any fan of history—or good waves.
Dungeons—Although this huge righthand bombie is a must surf for the hard-core crew who love huge
waves, it is one of South Africa’s most infamous waves, breaking in the shark-infested waters off of Cape Town.
The Transkei—A sharky, cold, uncrowded stretch along the southeastern coast of the country, this area is
risky, but the rewards are pretty enticing—numerous point break set-ups with nary a soul in sight.
The Water: Cold and dirty in large towns, cold and clean in the country—cold everywhere,
basically. J-Bay ranges from 64 to 72 F (18 to 22 C), while Cape Town sees temps as low as 50 F (10
C) in the dead of winter.
The Season: South Africa faces directly into the Roaring Forties and picks up tons of southern
hemisphere swell, with the high season being April through September. Wind tends to pick up on
the east coast after July, but the biggest swells are typically late season, so it all depends what you
are looking for.
The Vibe: There are a lot of local surfers in South Africa—and a lot of visiting surfers as well.
Tensions can get high at the big-name spots (J-Bay has a history of localism, enforced by the
“White Shorts”), but one needs only look back 20 years to the Apartheid era to realize that fighting
over something as trivial as waves is pathetically juvenile. Besides, the scariest local in the area has
a dorsal fin and a mouth full of razor-sharp chompers—and he doesn’t care what color your skin is,
or what your accent sounds like.
Things To Do: South Africa is a culturally diverse area, and offers a lot besides surf. Although
many people get stuck in the surf/party cycle, you are better off escaping the coast during flat
spells and checking out the country’s breathtaking interior. Safaris in particular are a once-in-alifetime opportunity that shouldn’t be missed—just make sure they are environmentally aware and
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Region | Africa
use best practices when in the national parks. And to see the world’s best surfers in what is
arguably the world’s best wave, check out the pro contest at J-Bay every July. (*The J-Bay contest
was downgraded from a WT event to a 6-Star Prime in 2012.)
Where To Stay: South Africa—and J-Bay in particular—is literally a surfing mecca, and there are
tons of accommodation options set up for the yearly flood of pilgrims. Cheap places can be
arranged in local neighborhoods, but it is a bit safer to stick to the well-traveled tourist areas—
although there are legendary characters who have been living in the bushes at Jeffery’s Bay for
decades.
Surf Charters/Tours:
SA Surfari – If you are looking to explore and score epic surf on the expansive South African
coastline, then SA Surfari has you covered. - Find on Surf Sleep Travel
Address: Umzumbe, Hibberdene 4225, South Africa
What To Bring: A shortboard and a solid step-up. A big-wave gun if you are going to Cape Town.
A 3/2 wetsuit for J-bay and a 4/3 with booties, gloves and a hood for winter in the south. Cold
weather gear for land-based activities. A bit of cash, as SA isn’t the cheapest country you’ll ever
visit (but keep the cash hidden). Heavy-duty condoms if you intend to get freaky.
Getting There: Durban, Johannesburg and Cape Town all field international flights from any
number of far-flung destinations. Ticket prices vary depending on where you are coming from, but
as a rule, tariffs go way up during the high season. No visa’s required for citizens of exempt
countries (for visits of up to 90 days). Airport codes: JNB (Johannesburg), DUR (Durban) and CPT
(Cape Town).
Asia
China
Although a huge majority of our surf gear comes from China—including many of our boards (a
dirty little secret the industry doesn’t want us to know)—the country has a surfing population that
is practically nonexistent. While this is likely to change in the next few years, for the time being at
least the waves in China can be enjoyed solo by anyone intrepid enough to venture there—and
despite what you may think, there are plenty of good waves to be had in the land of the dragon!
The Surf: While the majority of China’s known coastline plays host to small, unimpressive beach
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Region | Asia
break picking up (at best) short interval wind swell, Hainan island is quickly gaining a reputation
with traveling surfers and others in the know. The “Hawaii of China,” Hainan is a tropical island with
beach break and point setups, and has recently been deemed worthy of ASP-level competition, as
both men’s and women’s longboard world tour events are being held there this year.
(*Although Taiwan is typically associated with China, for the sake of this guide they will be thought
of as two separate zones.)
Yab-J: “J-Bay” backwards, this lefthand point has big aspirations. Although definitely not a
lefthand Jeffery’s, it's a decent point in the Riyue Bay area.
Main Point: Hainan’s most well-known wave, this left point in Riyue plays host to the annual
Surfing Hainan Open, and more recently the Swatch Girl’s Pro and ISA events.
Dadonghai: One of the most popular beaches on Hainan, Dadonghai is located in central
Sanya, and is typically a small, subpar beach break crowded with expats and local swimmers. It is
worth a visit, however, simply for the experience of surfing a popular Chinese beach.
Ghost Hotel: Purportedly Hainan’s best wave, this heavy left is also in Riyue Bay, and can
produce draining barrels when the conditions are good.
Quintang River Bore, Hangzhou: China has one of the world’s best bore tide waves, which
can offer rides up to two miles in length.
The Water: While the water in much of China is pretty dirty, Hainan Island has more of a tropical,
undeveloped feel, and the water clarity reflects this. Water temps are typically above 80 F (27 C).
The Season: For real swell with a decent interval, you will be looking for typhoons between July
and September—although quality waves have been recorded at other times of the year as well.
The Vibe: Hainan is becoming more popular with visiting surfers, and is booming as a Chinese
holiday resort destination. With this development comes more crowding, and locals are starting to
surf as well—but for the most part this is one of the mellower scenes out there.
Things To Do: China is a massive country, and for its size doesn’t see a lot of tourists, which can
be a good thing or a bad thing, depending on what you are looking for. Must-sees include the
Great Wall and the terracotta army in Beijing, and the Yellow Mountains of Huangshan.
Where To Stay: Hainan is set up for visiting surfers, and you will have no problem arranging
accommodations. Traveling Mainland China is a different story, however. Few people speak English,
and hotels can be both expensive and difficult to arrange (largely because of the language barrier).
Try booking ahead online for major cities.
What To Bring: A stubby shortboard or fish and a longboard. All of your own surf accessories,
including repair supplies. Warm water gear. A copy of Lonely Planet’s Guide to China. A good dose
of patience and a willingness to try the exotic.
Getting There: Major airports on the mainland include Hong Kong and Beijing. Hainan also sees
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flights from international destinations such as Singapore and Kuala Lumpur, as well as various cities
in Australia. You can also take a train from Guangzhou—a unique experience that involves having
the train loaded onto a ferry! Visas can be pricey depending on your home country, and should be
arranged before arrival. Airport codes: HKG (Hong Kong), PEK (Beijing) and HAK (Haikou, Hainan).
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Region | Asia
Japan
Surfing is big in Japan—heck, everything is big in the Land of the Rising Sun, but surfing is REALLY
big. The locals love the sport (both participating and watching), and for years the various beach
breaks around Tokyo featured prominently on the ASP World Tour schedule. A late ’90s emphasis
on quality waves and far-flung destinations (aka “The Dream Tour”) saw these Japanese
competitive events eventually replaced, but one would be remiss to write Japan off as anything
less than a legitimate surf destination. The country is in fact loaded with quality waves, including a
number of world-class river mouths and even the occasional big wave spot. And if great setups and
an exotic culture aren’t enough to entice you, there is always the fact that visiting surfers are said
to enjoy instant celebrity status. Makes you wonder why you aren’t already there—drinking sake,
snacking on sushi and chasing typhoon-driven barrels while singing “Domo Arigato, Mr. Roboto.”
Kon’nichiwa!
The Surf: Japan’s surf is underrated, which is a good thing if you are hoping to escape the crowds
and score empty, quality lineups. Fueled by typhoons, swell periods tend to be on the shorter side,
but numerous beach breaks, river mouths, points and even reefs make for a widely varying surf
experience. Japan is a solid beginner to intermediate destination, but there are days when only
experts should be in the water.
Sendai: A region rather than a singular surf break, Sendai is the main hub of surfing in
northern Japan, and boasts a number of beach breaks within close proximity to each other.
Fukushima: Smack dab in the unfortunate epicenter of 2011’s tsunami disaster, the lineup at
Fukushima was shut down after radioactive waste escaped the nearby nuclear power plant. The
region houses numerous quality beach breaks, however, and both locals and foreigners alike look
forward to the day when the surf—and the ocean in general—is once again clean and hospitable.
Shonan: Another wave-dense region—this one in central Japan—Shonan is only an hour and
a half from Tokyo, and is one of the country’s most popular surfing areas, with everything from soft
longboard-friendly spots to thumping reefs.
Aoshima Island: A unique setting in southern Japan with a long, rippable left, Aoshima is a
tiny island connected to the mainland by a short bridge, and is the peaceful home of a small Shinto
temple.
Okinawa: The fourth main surf region in Japan, Okinawa is rich in history, but also has a
number of quality reef breaks, making it a worthy destination. Interestingly, it is also one of the
world’s Blue Zones, meaning the local people are some of the longest living on the planet.
The Water: The water near major industrial centers is quite polluted, and obviously the breaks
around the Fukushima nuclear power plant are now suffering from the after-effects of radiation
leaks. However, various regions in Japan—including areas in the south and around Okinawa—are
about as pristine as they come. Water temps vary greatly from the north to the south (and from
the winter to the summer), so depending on where and when you are surfing you could be in
board shorts or a 6mm wetsuit. Shonan (Japan’s surf capital) sees temps ranging from 61 to 81 F
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Region | Asia
(16 to 27 C).
The Season: Although swells can sneak in year round, Japan is all about typhoon season, which
means July through November.
The Vibe: Japan has some incredibly crowded surf spots—and some incredibly empty ones. The
saving grace in crowded urban areas is that locals seem to take kindly to visiting surfers, so if you
don’t mind slaloming through crowded lineups, chances are good that you’ll still score waves, even
if you are in Shonan.
Things To Do: Forget surfing—Japan is a worthy destination on the merits of its culture alone.
With temples galore, the novelty of big-city Tokyo, and the annual Cherry Blossom Festival,
extracurriculars are never lacking. Plus, the country also happens to house some killer
snowboarding/skiing.
Where To Stay: Japan is expensive, as you will quickly find out. It is not really set up for feral
surfers or budget backpackers, although major cities do have a few hostels. For the most part,
expect to pay top dollar for overpriced hotels.
What To Bring: A shortboard as your standard stick, and a longboard if you are of the persuasion
and intend to spend time near soft waves. Warm clothing and thick rubber if you are coming in
winter or heading north. A taste for rice wine and raw fish, and a lot of money to spend on it. A
typhoon.
Getting There: Narita airport on the outskirts of Tokyo is the main entry point into the country,
with flights coming in from virtually everywhere. However, you can also fly directly into Okinawa if
you intend to spend your time there. Tourist visas are available upon arrival. Airport codes: OKA
(Okinawa) and NRT (Narita [Tokyo]).
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MalaysiA
Not many people would think of Malaysia when listing dream surf destinations, but the truth is
that SE Asia’s other Islamic country (besides Indo) has a surf scene that is both vibrant and unique.
The country’s coasts are already world famous for their beautiful beaches and five-star luxury
resorts, and the fact that there are surprisingly good waves in the region is the icing on the cake!
Over the past five years the Malaysian surf scene has grown by leaps and bounds, with annual
regional competitions and specialty events (Occy ran his grom-comp there in 2010), surf shops and
schools and even a few local semi-pros. One of the most interesting members of the fledgling surf
scene is Khairil Ibrahim, the friendly, talented, British/Malay nephew of the Sultan of Johor, who
also happens to be one of Malaysia’s best surfers and owns the country’s biggest surf shop.
With warm water, fun waves, cheap accommodations and convenient flights to Indo and the rest of
South East Asia, Malaysia is worth a second look, and just may dish up the surprise trip of a
lifetime!
The Surf: Malaysia’s noteworthy waves are all located on the South China Sea coast, and include a
number of fun beach breaks and a few surprisingly perfect lefthand sand-bottomed points. With
only short interval swell on tap, this is a beginner to intermediate surf destination.Cherating is at
the center of the local surf scene, and boasts a wave that resembles a lefthand version of Noosa
Heads. There are also a number of reefs on Tioman Island, and the Sunway Lagoon wave pool is in
Kuala Lumpur if that kind of thing gets you excited.
Cherating: The center of the local surf scene, Cherating is a lefthand sand-bottom point that
peels for 1.5 km on good days.
Tioman Island: Tioman has a number of quality reef breaks, providing some of the hollowest
waves in Malaysia.
Desaru: A fun, rippable rock/sand peak.
Tanjung Resang: An out of the way beach break setup with surfable (if somewhat soft)
sandbar peaks.
Sunway Lagoon: A waterpark wave pool in the heart of Kuala Lumpur, this novelty wave is
certainly “surfable,” but any pictures of high performance ripping you’ve seen from here probably
involved a jet ski tow-at.
The Water: There is a reason Malaysia is a popular tourist destination. The water is clean, warm
and idyllic—definitely of the tropical paradise variety. Water temps are around 80 to 85 F (27 to
30 C) year round, so a wetsuit is never needed.
The Season: The South China Sea monsoon creates favorable swell from October through March,
with December/January being the most consistent months. April through September is basically
flat.
The Vibe: Very mellow, very friendly and occasionally very crowded. Although nearly everyone in
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the water is either a stoked beginner or a cheery local, a few of the more popular spots can see a
lot of traffic (50+ people in the lineup on weekends), with surfers driving up from Singapore and
Kuala Lumpur. Weekdays are generally quiet and empty, and even when there are people in the
water, waves are pretty easy to come by.
For those who are concerned about traveling in a Muslim country, rest easy. The Malaysian people
are very welcoming and kind, and in tourist areas bikinis and other western garb are totally
acceptable.
Things To Do: Even if the surf is down, the Malaysian beach towns are a great place to spend a
relaxing holiday—whether that includes lounging in a hammock, kayaking the coast or exploring
underwater reefs through scuba and skin diving. Or, if you fancy a few days away from the ocean,
you can always arrange jungle tours in the country’s interior, or on one of the many islands, such as
Tioman.
Where To Stay: Malaysia is a popular stop on the backpacker circuit, and as such has no shortage
of budget accommodations. For the more discerning traveler, there are also a number of five-star
resorts, both on the mainland and on the offshore islands. For surf, your best bet is probably
Cherating, where beachside bungalows can be obtained for between $10–40USD/night.
What To Bring: Most local surfers ride short, stubby Dumpster Diver type boards, as the swell
period is typically pretty short. But the left points are surprisingly shapely, so a normal shortboard
will work fine if you score a solid swell. To really take advantage of the waves on offer, think about
bringing a traditional log, fish, alaia or pretty much anything else that excels in perfect waist to
chest high sand points.
Wax and other accessories are available in Cherating, but everywhere else you’ll be on your own.
Sun protection is a must, as is a book for downtime between swells and hiking shoes to explore the
jungles. Mosquito repellent could also come in handy. DO NOT bring any type of drugs, as the
punishment for trafficking is death and recreational possession can result in lifetime imprisonment.
Getting There: Air Asia, a budget carrier modeled after Virgin Airlines, hubs out of Kuala Lumpur
and is a great way to get into and around South East Asia. This is especially convenient for
Australians, as Air Asia has recently added a flight to Coolangata and often offers extremely
affordable promotional fares.
The more popular surf spots are a five-hour drive north of KL, and you’ll add another couple of
hours to that if you are coming from Singapore. Visa’s for both Singapore and Malaysia are
obtainable at airports and land crossings, and involve a very simple, inexpensive process. Airport
codes: KUL (Kuala Lumpur) and SIN (Singapore).
18
Region | Asia
PhilippinES
(Photo thanks to Kermit Surf and Dive Resort Siargao Find out more about staying here.
Quick: What country has over 7000 islands, many of which face into multiple swell directions and
boast quality setups ranging from perfectly symmetrical reef passes to coastlines rife with river
mouths? Here’s a hint: its best-known wave is named after a candy bar.
It’s been more than two decades since the perfect righthand barrels of Cloud 9 were seared into
our collective consciousness, and the Philippines’ popularity as a travel destination has waxed and
waned since that time. Each time a new perfect wave is discovered, the hype machine goes into
overdrive, but at the end of the day, difficulty of access and the inconsistency of a typhoon-fed
swell window has kept this group of islands from turning into the next Indo. Still, for those with a
little patience and the urge to explore, the Philippines might have more potential for discovery
than anywhere else on the planet.
The Surf: Ranging from slabbing barrels over coral reef to endless river mouth points, the only
thing that is consistent here is the inconsistency. The Philippines can go flat for weeks (and even
months) at a time, but when a Pacific typhoon or a South China Sea system lights up the nearly
infinite setups on offer, the region becomes an intermediate to advanced destination.
Cloud 9: The original Philippine dream, this is a short, intense righthand barrel breaking over
shallow reef on the island of Siargao. Crowds are always at a maximum now that the wave hosts a
pro surfing event each year. (An interesting bit of history—this is also where itinerant surf explorer
and infamous drug runner Mike Boyum starved to death after performing a ritualistic 40-day
fast/cleanse.)
Majestics: A relatively new addition to the Philippines’ collection of crown jewels, Majestics
is another perfect righthand reef barrel that more than lives up to its name.
Tuesday Rock: Possessing one of the most picturesque backdrops in surfing, Tuesday Rock is
a long, wrapping righthand reef breaking off of an offshore island near Cloud 9. The wave can
handle size, so the bigger the swell is, the better.
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Region | Asia
San Juan: A user-friendly righthand point break in Luzon, San Juan is one of the more
popular waves in the Philippines and can be a bit crowded at times.
Unlimited Gems Waiting to Be Discovered: The Philippines’ potential has only begun to be
tapped. With swells from the N, E and even W (during the South China Sea monsoon season) and
over 7000 islands, legitimate discoveries will be made here for decades to come.
The Water: Away from developed areas, the water is about as clean as it gets—and warm too.
Average water temps hover around 85 F (29 C).
The Season: Typhoon season in the Western Pacific and Philippine Sea stretches from July
through October. Then from November through March there is potential for small surf on the E
side of the country from North Pacific Swells and inconsistent short interval waves on the W side
from storms in the South China Sea. April through June is the least consistent time of year.
The Vibe: Top spots (like Cloud 9) can get ultra crowded, and there are regions of the country
where travel is inadvisable due to the threat of terrorism. For the most part, however, the surf in
the Philippines is relatively empty and the vibe one of mutual goodwill.
Kermit Surf and Dive Resort Siargao |
View Details
Things To Do: Outside of the surf, the Philippines houses abundant natural beauty, with great
potential for sailing, paddling, diving and mountain/rainforest hiking. But if you are planning to get
off the beaten path, make sure to go with a guide, as certain areas are (to put it nicely) less safe
than others.
Where To Stay: Between surf camps, hostels, home stays and old school self-sufficient camping,
budget options are plentiful. High-end accommodations are starting to pop up as well.
What To Bring: A shortboard and a step-up for solid barrels. Surf accessories, as shops are few
and far between. Quality sun protection, and booties and a helmet if you have them. A mosquito
net. Finally, bring a couple of books and a healthy dose of patience—unless you are chasing a
typhoon, you can expect a lot of downtime between swells.
Getting There: Manila is a major international airport that fields flights from virtually
everywhere. Cheap flights are available on Air Asia (routing through Kuala Lumpur), but these will
arrive at Clark airport ( 50 miles from Manila’s main airport). Tourist visas available upon arrival.
Airport codes: MNL (Manila) and CRK (Clark).
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Region | Asia
Taiwan
A tropical Pacific island on roughly the same latitude as Hawaii with consistent surf, a variety of
quality waves, and very few local surfers—Taiwan might just be the best-kept secret in surfing!
The Surf: Beach breaks, river mouths, points, even reefs—Taiwan has a little of everything.
Actually, Taiwan has a lot of everything—swell is more consistent than you’d think and filters in
year round. In general, this island off the coast of China is a beginner to intermediate destination.
Fulong Beach: A popular surf break in the middle of town, Fulong has a thriving surf scene,
but the locals are pretty friendly and the waves appropriate for surfers of all levels.
Donghe River Mouth: An average wave in the Taitung area with a core crew of surfers, this
river mouth produces both lefts and rights and is an easy option for the traveling surfer.
Cheng Gong: This lefthand reef point can break up to 200 meters on a good day.
Jia le Shui: A beach break setup north of Kenting, Jia le Shui has boards for rent and a small
hotel in a beautiful setting.
Bashien Dong: A lefthander on the east coast an hour and a half south of Hualien, this river
mouth point can be quite long and rippable.
The Water: Crystal clear and comfortably warm, Taiwan’s water is the prototypical tropical blue.
Surface temps range from 72 to 82 F (22 to 28 C).
The Season: May through October is best for the south part of the country, which enjoys waves
on both sides. Meanwhile, the northeast coast enjoys swell from November through April.
The Vibe: Although there is a thriving surf scene in Taiwan, the locals are quite friendly and
welcoming, so you are unlikely to get vibed in the lineup.
Things To Do: Taipei is a massive city with much to see, including the 101 Building (previously the
world’s tallest, and the first to top 500 meters). The mountain areas are also quite beautiful, so try
not to limit yourself to the coast and capital.
Where To Stay: Taiwan has a huge number of surf breaks—most of which are only accessible if
you have private transportation and a lot of local knowledge. If you don’t know anyone who lives
on the island, check out www.surftaiwan.com for accommodation/tour packages.
What To Bring: A shortboard and something alternative—a log or a fish will keep your stoke level
up when a typhoon isn’t pumping out river mouth barrels. A springsuit for the coldest part of
winter (if you are temperature-sensitive) and boardshorts for the rest of the year. A taste for the
exotic, a sense of adventure and a Mandarin/English dictionary.
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Region | Asia
Getting There: Taiwan Taoyuan International Airport is your main gateway into Taiwan, and fields
numerous flights from Mainland China and overseas. Visas are available upon arrival for citizens of
many countries. Airport code: TPE.
22
Region | Asia
Vietnam
“Charlie don’t surf!”—the famous line from Apocalypse Now—might be one of the only times in
history that the Vietnamese people and surfing have been referred to in the same breath. Yet while
the basic premise of this derogatory statement does hold true—there are very few local surfers in
Vietnam, even now—that isn’t to say that there aren’t waves to be had. Although Vietnam will
never become a household name for its sub-par beach breaks and points, it does offer a unique
surfing and cultural experience—enough so that Taylor Steele saw fit to include the country in his
acclaimed film Castles in the Sky. Whether tacked onto a surf trip to nearby Indo or Sri Lanka or
taken simply on its own merits, a visit to Vietnam will always be worth the trip—and you might as
well surf while you are there!
The Surf: For the most part you are looking at short interval swell on soft beach breaks and the
occasional point, although when the right storm in the South China Sea corresponds with good
local wind conditions and ideal sandbars, stellar conditions can occasionally result. Waves are
typically beginner to intermediate level.
Nam O: A lefthand point breaking near Da Nang, this wave needs a lot of size, but can be
good on its day. A nearby river mouth means dirty water, but also beach break options if the swell
is small.
Bhai Dai Beach: A series of beach break peaks in Nha Trang, this is one of the few places in
Vietnam with a “water sport shop,” and board rentals are available.
China Beach (Non Nuoc): Probably Vietnam’s most popular and longest-surfed spot, China
Beach in Da Nang was the site of Vietnam’s first surf contest in 1997.
Mui Ne: Not a great surfing wave due to the wind, but popular with kite and windsurfers. On
the rare occasion that the wind goes slack the beach break supposedly gets hollow.
Unknown Beach Breaks: The stretch of coast between Da Nang and Hoi Han has potential
for any number of unknown quality sand bars on the right day. Spend some time exploring and it’s
entirely possible to pioneer a new spot in Vietnam!
The Water: Dirty but warm. 75 to 86 F (24 to 30 C) year round, so you’ll range from comfortable
to hot.
The Season: The monsoon season brings swells, but also adverse winds. Your best bet is October
through March.
The Vibe: There are very few surfers in Vietnam (with the exception of China Beach), so the only
vibe will be the one you bring. On land, the Vietnamese can be a bit pushy with tourists, but if you
enjoy bargaining you’ll have a blast.
Things To Do: Vietnam has a well-established bar scene up and down the coast, and is smack in
the middle of the typical backpacker route, so if you are looking for a social life, you’ll find it.
Halong Bay in the north is quite beautiful and worth a visit, and trekking in Sapa is also a lovely and
culturally rich experience. Hanoi is a lively city with an interesting French quarter, and Ho Chi Minh
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Region | Asia
City (formerly known as Saigon) has a lot of historical significance. To see the Vietnam War from
the Vietnamese perspective, try visiting the Cu Chi tunnels or the War Remnants Museum in Ho
Chi Minh City.
Where To Stay: Since this is backpacker central, hostels and other cheap accommodations are in
abundance. If you are really on a budget, you can easily sleep on $2/night.
What To Bring: A wide, thick hybrid shortboard or a longboard. All surf accessories, as you are
unlikely to find anything outside of Da Nang and Nha Trang—and even there selection will be
limited. A backpack and Lonely Planet’s Guide to Vietnam. An open itinerary, as the rest of South
East Asia also deserves your attention.
Getting There: Air Asia hubs out of Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, flies pretty much everywhere in
South East Asia and often has incredible sales on tickets (sometimes as cheap as $0.00 plus taxes.
Yes, you read that right—zero dollars!). There are numerous daily flights into Hanoi and Ho Chi
Minh City, and overland travel is also very cheap in South East Asia. Visas should be arranged
before arrival. Airport codes: HAN (Hanoi) and SGN (Ho Chi Minh City).
24
Region | Atlantic Islands
Atlantic Islands
Azores
When one thinks of surfing and European islands, the mind naturally tracks to the Canaries, and
possibly Reunion. The Azores, however, often go unnoticed—which is just fine with the local
surfers and core group of visitors enjoying the region’s waves each year. A territory of Portugal, the
Azores are located 1300 km off the coast of Lisbon and sit squarely in the path of large Atlantic
storms. What this equates to is consistent, powerful, uncrowded surf on a set of islands infused
with Portuguese culture—a unique surf experience that often goes overlooked.
The Surf: With beach breaks, points and difficult-to-access danger waves, the Azores have a little
bit of everything, making this region a beginner to advanced surf destination.
Rabo de Peixe: What used to be the Azores’ premier wave was destroyed by the
construction of a jetty. The new left formed inside the harbor is small consolation, but consolation
nonetheless.
Baixa de Viola: A right and left reef peak on the north side of Sao Miguel.
Ribiera Grande: A beach break option near to Rabo de Peixe.
Ponta dos Moisteiros: One of the best waves in the Azores, this reef peak breaks on the west
corner of Sao Miguel.
Populo: A user-friendly beach break located in a bustling city, Populo is popular with
beginners and weekend warriors.
The Water: The water in the Azores is lovely—crystal clear and relatively moderate in
temperature, ranging from 61 to 75 F (16 to 24 C) seasonally.
The Season: While winter (December through February) has the most consistent surf, it often
suffers from serious storm conditions. The seasons either side of winter (fall and spring) are your
best bet in the Azores.
The Vibe: Few local surfers and fewer surf tourists means that many of the waves in the Azores
are relatively uncrowded. Early morning sessions in particular are pretty empty. At the more
populated spots, a good attitude will ingratiate you with the locals.
Things To Do: The Azores are famous for whale watching and having the world’s best blue marlin
fishing. Pico Mountain (the highest in Portugal) and Sete Cidades Caldeira are both popular hikes,
while other activities include bike tours of the islands, snorkeling, scuba diving and golf.
Where To Stay: The Azores aren’t famous for exorbitantly priced five-star hotels—which is just
fine by the average surfer. Mid-range hotels abound, and in the major cities you will be able to find
hostels.
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What To Bring: A shortboard and a mini-gun. The typical surf accessories, although there are
shops on Sao Miguel where you can pick up supplies. Hiking shoes—you won’t want to miss the
Azores’ landscapes and sights. A springsuit for early fall and late spring, and a 3/2 fullsuit for the
heart of the season.
Getting There: Ponta Delgada airport sees twice-weekly flights from the UK and daily flights from
Lisbon. As Portugal is part of the Schengen Agreement, nationals of many countries do not require
visas. Airport code: PDL.
26
Canary Islands
People love to compare places to Hawaii, and the Canary Islands are no exception. Often referred
to as the “European Hawaii,” this Spanish island chain off the northwest coast of Africa certainly
has heavy waves and heavier locals—but that is where the similarities end. The water is colder, the
geography more rugged, the culture markedly non-Polynesian—all of which make the Canary
Islands their own unique entity (and for the surfer who craves adrenaline highs and danger waves,
definitely worthy of a visit).
The Surf: Big and heavy—and breaking over nasty lava rock reefs—the waves in the Canary
Islands are not for the faint of heart, which is why this destination is for advanced to expert riders.
Los Lobos: An island off of Fuerteventura, Los Lobos houses an epic righthand point break
that only gets better as it gets bigger.
El Quemao: “The Pipeline of the Canary Islands,” El Quemao is a heavy, dredging lefthand
barrel located on Lanzarote that can handle swells in excess of 10 foot. People have died here, and
the wave should only be attempted by experts—especially at size.
Almaciga: A right and left reef peak on Tenerife, Almaciga fires on northerly swells—like
most waves in the archipelago.
El Confital: An excellent righthand reef on Gran Canaria, El Confital is extremely crowded,
but justifiably so—some say it's the best righthand barrel in Europe.
El Fronton: If you have surfed this slabby right and left peak at real size, you are either a
psychopath or a bodyboarder—or both. Enough said.
The Water: The Canaries enjoy sapphire blue water of impeccable quality, and the temperatures
don’t get too low either—island paradise with a European flair. Surface temps range from 66 to 73
F (19 to 23 C).
The Season: The Canaries are all about the North Pacific winter (December through February),
although swells can filter through in the fall and spring as well.
The Vibe: Heavy. As if the waves aren’t gnarly enough, the surfers in the Canary Islands are
notorious for localism, to the point of occasional violence.
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Calima Surf| View Details
Things To Do: The Canary Islands are quite beautiful, with a variety of different landscapes,
making this a great destination for the surfer who also enjoys other outdoor activities, such as
hiking. (Lanzarote is designated as a World Biosphere Reservation.)
Surf Schools:
Line Up Water Sports Center Fuerteventura–
Address: C.C. Tamarindo 1 Local 18 Corralejo
Where To Stay: The Canary Islands see a fair number of tourists (surfers and non-surfers alike),
so hotels, hostels and beach resorts abound.
Surf Camps:
Protest Surfschool – Our mission is to help you get the most out of your surfing holiday on our
lovely island! - Find on Surf Sleep Travel
Address: Avendida Islas Canarias, Corralejo
Accommodation
Fuerteventura Surf House – Fuerteventura Surf House is a place where you can sleep sharing some
services (kitchen, living room, terrace) with the other guest. -Find on Surf Sleep Travel
Address: Ringbell, 1H Corralejo, Fuerteventura
Naturalsurfcamp– The smalest but coolest surf camp/boarders house since 2003 in the north of
Fuerteventura - Find on SurfSleep Travel
Address: calle rosa de la laguna 8 | Phone: 0034 616 596 827
What To Bring: Step-ups and miniguns, as you are most likely coming for heavy waves. Multiple
leashes. A helmet. A 3/2 wetsuit (for the winter cold) and booties (for the urchins and lava reef). A
good pair of hiking shoes.
Getting There: It is possible to fly in from Spain or the UK, with the largest airport being on Gran
Canaria. Lanzarote, Tenerif and Fuerteventura also have airports. Visas are not required for citizens
of many countries. Airport codes: LPA (Gran Canaria), ACE (Lanzarote), TFN (Tenerife) and FUE
(Fuerteventura).
28
Region | Australia
Australia
New South Wales
Lennox Head Photo thanks to LakeSong. Find out more about staying here.
While it’s easy to be a surfer in warm, user-friendly Queensland, southerly neighbor New South Wales (NSW)
demands a deeper level of commitment. With a long, varied coastline encompassing multiple climatic and
geographic regions, surfing in NSW can mean sunny, perfect beach break tubes or frigid, rainy, windswept rubbish
—sometimes both in the same day. But what the state lacks in predictable consistency it makes up for in
uncrowded potential, with miles of national park coastline and hard-to-access breaks ripe for the picking.
NSW boasts heaps of history as well, from 5-time world champ Mark Richards and tour power
stalwarts Luke Egan and Kieren Perrow to the classic bodyboarding scene at Shark Island and the
infamous Bra Boy-dominated Ours. Morning of the Earth, arguably the most influential surf film of
all time, was shot in part in the state’s northern region.
With hippie communes, major cities and desolate wilderness all within a few hours of each other,
NSW has something for everyone—and good surf, too!
The Surf: With such a massive coast, it’s not surprising that NSW offers the entire smorgasbord of
waves. The north is known for playful righthand points, while the central coast has miles of beach
break. Sydney is infamous for slabs like Ours and Shark Island, and the South Coast remains closely
and quietly guarded, with lots of potential for the intrepid explorer.
The Pass: Byron Bay’s most popular spot, this righthand point is world class on its day—and
has the crowds to prove it. But one long, symmetrical wave in the peaceful Byron setting makes the
hassle more than worth it.
Crescent Head: A lesser-known break with a storied history, this is a perfect place to live out
your Morning of the Earth fantasy.
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Region | Australia
Fairybower, Manly: Surfing in the city is a unique experience. Hit it early, before the crowds,
and enjoy one of Sydney’s most well-known beaches on a non-conventional hybrid that can power
through the soft sections.
Angourie: This wave was the stuff of dreams in the late sixties, and can still offer a worldclass ride on its day. The crowds can be thick and aggressive, so tread softly.
Kiama Wedge: NSW’s answer to The Wedge, Kiama is a favorite with bodyboarders and
offers the added bonus of close proximity to city food and entertainment.
The Water: Water quality and temperature depends where and when you are surfing, with
cleaner water in national parks and other undeveloped regions and dirtier water in densely
populated areas such as Sydney. Water temps range from 82 F (28 C) in the north in summer to
below 59 F (15 C) in the far south in winter, so do some research beforehand to decide what kind
of thermal protection to bring.
The Season: The fall and winter seasons are best, with consistent swells pumping from March
through September. October through February is a good time to go somewhere else.
The Vibe: The vibe in the water can range from peace/love hippie talk to knife-wielding
thuggishness—again, it all depends where you are surfing. If you have a strong aversion to surfing
with others, there are many desolate beaches with a plethora of setups on offer, but sometimes
solitude can be worse than a crowd—especially with a high incidence of shark sightings and attacks
in the region.
Surf Camp Australia| View Details
Surf House Narrawallee | View Details
LakeSong@LennoxHead | View Details
Things To Do: Dress yourself in tie-dye and trip out with a guru in Byron Bay. Live the big-city life
in Sydney. Get your hands dirty doing blue-collar work in any number of coastal towns. Camp in
national parks without seeing another soul for weeks on end. Eat a meat pie and a Vegemite
sandwich. Cheer for the Blues in the State of Origin rugby league series. Your options are pretty
much endless.
Surf Schools:
Surfing Byron Bay P/L – Operating since 1997, the only surf school that runs an Ocean Surf Education Program in our
local and adjoining shires for school children. Find on Surf Sleep Travel
Address: 84 Jonson Street, Byron Bay, NSW
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Region | Australia
Where To Stay: “It depends where you are” is quickly become the NSW theme. Communes, posh
vacation homes, city flats, hostels and campsites are all options along the NSW coast. Choose a
region and a budget and you’ll find what you are looking for.
What To Bring: Standard shortboards for the central coast. Heavy water equipment for down
south. Longboards and fish for Byron. Wax temps range from warm to cool, and the same applies
for wetsuits. Surf shops abound, so you won’t have trouble finding gear on the fly. The weather can
get quite chilly down south, and even up north in winter, so pack some warm clothing. Bring
camping gear and rent a 4x4 to explore the national park beaches for the ultimate Aussie
experience.
Getting There: If you are planning to go central or south, fly into Sydney. If you are heading to
Byron or Angourie, fly into Brisbane or Coolangata and then head south for a few hours to the
Queensland/NSW border. Unless you plan to stay in Sydney the whole time, plan to do some
driving. Tourist visas can be arranged online before arrival and involve little to no hassle. Australia is
a popular working holiday destination, and offers great visa opportunities, especially for young
(under 30) citizens of the EU, who can come for up to 24 months if they spend three months in the
fruit picking industry (12 months otherwise). Airport codes: SYD (Sydney), BNE (Brisbane) and OOL
(Coolangatta).
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Region | Australia
QueenslanD
What Southern California is to the US, Queensland, and specifically the Gold Coast, is to Australia.
Like its American counterpart, this region is rich in perfect right points, talented surfers and
pleasant weather, and is the heart of the country’s surf industry, with virtually every major brand
boasting corporate offices or other ostentatious representation in the area. As if it wasn’t enough
to simply be the center of everything surf-related, the state went ahead and claimed it too, actually
naming a city “Surfer’s Paradise.”
Although it is definitely paid a lot of lip service, Queensland lives up to the hype. When cyclone
season comes around there aren’t many better places to be in the country, if not the world, and
legend still reverberates about three-week runs of perfection at Kirra back in the early ’70s. The
local talent runs deep as well, with the two most famous—Mick Fanning and Joel Parkinson—
owning three world titles between them. And of course Queensland surf history is as storied as
anywhere, with characters and legends such as Rabbit Bartholomew and the late MP calling the
area home.
The Surf: There may not be a higher density of perfect right points anywhere in the world, and
the waves in and around Coolangatta are the benchmark against which all sand-bottom points are
measured. In general, this is an intermediate surf zone, although the various waves can range from
beginner to expert, depending on the day.
Kirra: Once considered the best righthand barrel in the world, Kirra is no longer its
consistent, perfect self ever since they began pumping sand out of the Tweed River. Still, there are
days when she regains some of her past glory.
Snapper Rocks (Superbank): The sand pumping that lead to the demise of Kirra was also the
birth of the Superbank—a multi-kilometer-long righthand sand point that has seen recorded rides
in excess of two minutes.
Burleigh Heads: Yet another hollow, rippable sand/cobblestone point.
Noosa Heads: A series of righthand sand-bottom points in the northern portion of the state,
Noosa hosts some of the best longboarding waves in the world when small, and can deliver
draining barrels when big.
South Straddie: Located on South Stradbroke Island (which is separated from Surfer’s
Paradise by a narrow channel), this series of sandbars makes for some of the best beach break
barrels in Australia.
The Water: For a highly developed, densely populated area, the water in Queensland is relatively
clean. It’s warm too, which is a nice bonus. Summer (December through February) sees water
temps on the Gold Coast topping out at around 82 F (28 C), while winter (August) can see temps
drop to as low as 66 F (19 C), so it never dips below the “cool” range, and a 3/2 wetsuit should get
you through the coldest days.
The Season: January to July is prime season on the Goldie, with the late summer and autumn
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Region | Australia
months often suffering doldrums that can seem endless at times.
The Vibe: It is crowded enough in Queensland that localism isn’t really a factor, although there
has been a bit of history between the various surf clubs. The real issue is how many really good
surfers come from this area. Crowds can be at a maximum, and the lineup at Snapper Rocks (also
called the “Superbank”) is one of the most competitive in the world.
Surf Easy | View Details |
Things To Do: Surfer’s Paradise is party central and traveling surfers are hot items in Australia, so
bring a fancy shirt and your dancing shoes. To hippie out, either go north to Noosa or south to
Byron. For professional surfing, check out the World Tour season opener at Snapper Rocks in late
February. And if land sport is your thing, check out the State of Origin rugby league series, a bestof-three clash between Queensland and New South Wales.
Where To Stay: Real estate is at a premium in Queensland—especially on the Gold Coast—and
accommodation prices will reflect this fact. There are hostels available for the budget seeker,
however, so don’t be afraid to shop around. Typically, you will want to locate yourself within
striking distance of the fabled right points, but for a change of pace a thirty-minute drive south will
see you in small, friendly, uncrowded towns with a range of fun beach breaks.
What To Bring: A standard high-performance surfboard and a log if you are going to Noosa.
Board shorts or a 3/2 wettie, depending on what time of year you are going. Cool to warm water
wax. A pocket full of cash and a taste for the big time.
Getting There: Brisbane is the major airport in the region, but ou can also fly straight into
Coolangatta for easier access. Tourist visas can be arranged online before arrival and involve little
to no hassle. Australia is a popular working holiday destination, and offers great visa opportunities,
especially for young (under 30) citizens of the EU, who can come for up to 24 months if they spend
three months in the fruit picking industry (12 months otherwise). Airport codes: BNE (Brisbane)
and OOL (Coolangatta).
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Region | Australia
South AustraliA
Whenever anyone mentions South Australia, the first thing people think of is sharks—and for good
reason. But if you can look beyond the threat of violent death and dismemberment—and the bitter
cold—South Australia is holding a number of epic waves, and not near the crowds you’d find in the
warmer northern states.
The Surf: South Australia has a wide variety of setups ranging from long points and punchy beach
breaks to slabbing reefs. Due to the cold water and constant threat of shark attack, this should be
considered an intermediate to advanced surf region.
Cactus: A region in Southwest Australia rather than a specific wave, Cactus is an isolated
camping area with a number of epic waves—and more sharks than you can shake your DHD stick
at.
Waitpinga: A beach break setup with numerous quality peaks.
Middleton: A series of beach break peaks near Victor Harbor.
Pennington Bay: A quality beach break setup on the south side of Kangaroo Island.
Stokes Bay: A rare gem on the north side of Kangaroo Island, Stokes is a lefthand reef with a
dose of power.
The Water: Cold and sharky. Water quality isn’t too bad, although it tends to suffer near river
mouths and after rains. Surface temps range from around 57 to 66 F (14 to 19 C), so when you go
will greatly influence your choice in wetsuit thickness.
The Season: South Australia receives relatively consistent swell all year. Fall (March through May)
has the best wind, with the rest of the year suffering from relatively constant onshores.
The Vibe: The locals are a hard lot, but in truth you have much bigger worries in South Australia,
and they come equipped with multiple sets of teeth. There are a lot of sharks in the region (if you
haven’t picked up on that already), so if you feel any vibes in the water, your best course of action
would be to paddle in.
Things To Do: Cage diving with sharks is said to be quite popular in these parts.
Where To Stay: In many places you will be camping, so come equipped for self-sufficiency.
However, you will find places to stay in larger towns like Victor Harbor, and of course in Adelaide
(which is unfortunately shadowed by Kangaroo Island).
Accommodation
Bella Vista – What a fabulous well presented affordable holiday home only minutes walk from
Middleton Beach, local eateries and the Tavern. - Find on Surf Sleep Travel
Address: Middleton
34
Region | Australia
What To Bring: A shortboard and a backup, plus a big-wave gun or slab board if you are coming
for the danger waves. Thick rubber in winter, shark repellant if you actually believe it works and
survival gear for rough-style camping.
Getting There: Adelaide is your main gateway into South Australia, and is serviced by Adelaide
International Airport. Tourist visas are easy to arrange, but should be obtained before arrival into
the country. Airport code: ADL.
35
Region | Australia
Sydney
What Coolangatta is to Gold Coast surfing, Sydney is to NSW. Which is to say that it’s the epicenter.
With waves, parties, culture, music, arts and nearly five million people, Sydney might just be the
best surf metropolis on the planet.
The Surf: Sydney has everything from user-friendly beach breaks to heavily localized death slabs
—and all that fits between—making it one of the most diverse surf regions in Australia. Depending
where you surf, the waves range from beginner to expert only.
Bondi Beach: Ha ha, just kidding—unless you enjoy surfing crowded, gutless, closed out
beach break on the most famous stretch of sand in Australia. (Which, as it turns out, a lot of people
do.) Bonus Factor: Bondi is offshore when the rest of Sydney is blown out with a NE wind.
Manly Beach: Touristy, crowded, fronted by a strip of bars and retail stores—Manly is a lot
like Bondi, except that it occasionally has epic waves (both beach breaks and points). Bonus Factor:
Lots of skin on the beach, but no annoying lifeguard TV show.
North Narrabeen: Narrabeen is famous for a reason—and that reason is epic lefthand sandbottom barrels. Bonus Factor: Some big names in Australian surf history hail from Narrabeen,
including former world champ Damien Hardman.
Cronulla: The best surfing sub-region in Sydney? There are definitely many who would say
so. Cronulla is chock full of quality beach breaks and heavy reefs. Plus, Occy comes from there.
Bonus Factor: Shark Island. (Need we say more?)
Ours: Haha, just kidding again—unless you enjoy charging death slabs and fighting gnarly
locals. (Which, as it turns out, a few people do.) Bonus Factor: A great place if you like shellfish, as
your bound to be digging clams in no time.
The Water: Sydney is the biggest and most heavily populated city in Australia, so the water clarity
is understandably sub-par. Surface temps are relatively moderate, however, ranging from 64 to 73 F
(18 to 23 C).
The Season: Fall and winter are your best bet (March through August).
The Vibe: Depending on where you go, you could be mixing it up with kooks, pros, working class
heroes and super aggressive gangsters. The only guarantee is that it will be crowded.
36
Region | Australia
Sydney Surf Camps | View Details
Things To Do: Sydney is the biggest city in Australia. If you can’t think of something to do, go look
at the Opera House with all the other tourists.
Where To Stay: Lots of backpackers in Sydney, so you’ll have no trouble finding hostels and other
relatively cheap accommodation options. Which part of the city you stay in depends on what
waves you want to surf.
What To Bring: A shortboard and a step-up. A 3/2 wetsuit. Your fanciest flip-flops and a pocket
full of cash. Your best hassling skills (and a ticket out of town to the nearby national parks when
you realize that everyone else in the water can out-hassle you).
Getting There: Sydney Airports is one of the biggest in Australia, so this one is a no-brainer.
Tourist visas can be arranged online before arrival and involve little to no hassle. Airport code: SYD.
37
Region | Australia
Tasmania
Tasmania is to Australia what Vancouver Island is to Canada—a rugged, picturesque island covered
with temperate rainforests, populated by hardy locals and holding a number of fickle, hard-toaccess slabs. The difference? Shipstern’s Bluff, one of the heaviest waves in the world, where
Australian hell-men continue to redefine what is survivable. Shippies perfectly symbolizes Tasmania
as a whole—heavy yet beautiful, cold yet alluring and probably a touch too gnarly for 99% of the
surfers out there. For the other 1%, it’s paradise.
The Surf: Tassie is known for slabs, and but there are also a number of points and beach breaks
on the island. However, due to the cold weather, difficulty of access and a high density of heavy
waves, this should be considered an advanced to expert destination.
Shipstern’s Bluff: The wave that started the slab obsession back in 2000. Before Shippies,
there was only Teahupoo and The Box. Ever since the discovery of Tasmania’s most famous wave, a
new death slab seems to pop up every other week. Nevertheless, the stepped-out mutant rights of
Shipstern’s still rule the lot.
Hobart: Tasmania’s capital houses a number of fickle righthand point breaks that go nuts the
three or four days per year that they break.
Lighthouse Beach: A quality beach break setup on the west coast.
Marawah: With a number of quality setups in the vicinity, this town six hours out of Hobart
is a decent base of operations for west coast exploration.
Bluff Reef: A heavy righthand reef barrel on the west coast.
The Water: Clean but cold, the water in Tasmania is whipped into a frenzy by the Roaring Forties,
and with surface temperatures ranging from 51 to 60 F (11 to 16 C) is only for the hardiest of cold
water fanatics.
The Season: Although Tasmania enjoys short interval wind swell nearly year round, large ground
swells come in the southern hemisphere’s winter (March through August), with the wind being a
touch milder in the early season.
The Vibe: Tassie locals are pretty gnarly, and rumor has it that they are harboring a number of
secret gems. However, the cold and fickle nature of Tasmania’s surf means that there aren’t a ton
of wave riders on the island, so you should be able to find some waves to yourself with a bit of
searching.
Things To Do: A large portion of Tasmania is made up of nature preserves and national parks, so
for the naturalist and outdoorsman there are plenty of non-surf activities to keep you busy through
the flat and/or stormy spells.
Where To Stay: A few of the larger cities (such as Hobart) have accommodations, but outside of
these areas you’d do well to have a tent or caravan with you, or a local friend with a conveniently
located hunting shack.
38
Region | Australia
What To Bring: A shortboard, a bag full of miniguns and a jet ski setup for tow-ins. A warm
wetsuit (5/4/3mm with hood, booties and gloves is advisable in winter). Warm clothing for cold,
stormy weather. Good hiking boots. A first aid kid and any other survival gear you can think of.
Getting There: Hobart International Airport is the main international gateway into Tasmania,
although there are also a number of domestic airports and a ferry between the island (Devonport)
and the mainland (Melbourne). Australian visas can be arranged online prior to arrival. Airport
code: HBA.
39
Region | Australia
Victoria
Although the Gold Coast might be the heart of the surf industry in Australia, and Sydney the epitome of city
surfing life, Bells Beach in Victoria is the spiritual home of the sport. Home of renowned wetsuit brand Rip Curl, as
well as one of the longest running professional contests in surfing, this iconic point break located in Torquay is one
of the most famous waves in the world—let alone in Australia. But although Bells gets the majority of Victoria’s
media coverage, it is only one of many historical and world-class waves in the region. Between the quality and
consistency of the surf and the cultural diversity of Melbourne, Victoria is a must-visit for anyone looking to
experience surfing Down Under.
The Surf: Victoria is famous for its long righthand points, but also contains beach breaks, reefs and even a few
big wave bombies. For the most part, however, this should be considered an intermediate surf zone.
Bells Beach: A permanent fixture on the world tour and the setting for many pivotal moments in surf
history (Simon Anderson unveiled his thruster here in dramatic fashion in 1981), the long, semi-fat walls of Bells
Beach will forever be close to our hearts—even if a better point break lies a few short miles away.
Winkipop: Bells’ less famous but more shapely neighbor, Winki is a rippable righthand point with endless
walls and occasional barrel sections.
Jan Juc: The most accessible quality beach break in Torquay, Jan Juc is a good option when the swell is a bit
small for the area’s points.
Johanna Beach: Best known as a back up venue for the Bells contest, Johanna is another good option
when the point breaks in Torquay are lacking swell.
Mornington Peninsula: A wave-rich region strewn with beach breaks and reefs, Mornington Peninsula is a
good option for those looking to surf Victoria but avoid the scene and crowds in Torquay.
The Water: It has been suggested that Victoria is the Northern California of Australia, which means that—
outside of major cities—the water is clean, cold and sharky. Average surface temps in Torquay range from 55 to
64 F (13 to 18 C).
The Season: Victoria’s main surf season stretches from March through August.
The Vibe: Torquay is a veritable surf city, and the points in the area can get very crowded. Outside of this region,
lineups are typically pretty empty—and the tight-lipped locals want them to remain that way.
Things To Do: Melbourne has a great art scene and is a cultural melting pot (which means lots of great ethnic
food). The Great Ocean Road is just begging to be driven, and the Twelve Apostles make for some of the best
roadside scenery in the southern hemisphere.
Where To Stay: You’ll have no problem finding hotels, hostels, and other backpacker lodging in major surfing
centers such as Torquay, or in the capital city of Melbourne.
What To Bring: A shortboard and a step-up. A 3/2mm wetsuit in summer and a 4/3 with booties in winter. A
suitcase full of knit hats and long johns and other warm clothing. A caravan or combi van, as the Great Ocean
Road is a classic road trip destination.
Getting There: Melbourne International Airport is the main gateway into Victoria, and is located a short 1.5
hours from Torquay. Australia visas should be obtained online prior to arrival. Airport code: MLB.
40
Region | Australia
Western Australia
Australia’s wild, wild west is a man’s land—rugged, barren, physically and mentally demanding and
stuffed full of heavy slabs. With a reputation for big sharks, gnarly locals and incessant winds, WA
might not be at the top of most people’s list of dream destinations, but for those who enjoy
sleeping under the stars and charging consequential waves with minimal crowds, there’s no better
place.
The Surf: Although there are a number of softer waves in WA, the well-known breaks are all
either slabs or big wave bombies, making this an advanced to expert destination.
Margaret River: A rippable peak when small and a legitimate big wave bombie when the
swell is pumping, this wave will feature on the ASP world tour through 2017.
The Box: The original slab, The Box is a ledgy righthander close to Margaret River that has
been dishing up fickle, gaping tubes since the early ’90s.
Red Bluff: A heavy lefthand reef barrel in the middle of the WA desert that provides the full
surf/camp experience.
Gnarloo: Another slabby lefthander located way out in the desert, Gnarloo is for only the
heaviest of watermen and desert-dwellers.
tubes.
North Point: One of WA’s best righthanders, North Point is legendary for its long, heavy
The Water: Aside from urban areas around Perth and other large cities, WA is fronted by some of
the cleanest, bluest, sharkiest water in Australia. Surface temps in Perth range from 66 to 72 F (19
to 22 C), with northern areas being warmer and southern areas quite a bit colder.
The Season: WA gets waves year round, but winter (May through August) is the most consistent.
Unfortunately, winter can also be quite windy.
The Vibe: The locals in WA are gnarly, and the better spots are well protected. If you come with a
good attitude, skills and respect, however, you should get along quite well.
Things To Do: Camp. Fish. Drink. Surf.
Where To Stay: If you are anywhere besides Perth, chances are good that you’ll be living in a
tent.
What To Bring: A shortboard and a couple of step-ups. A 3/2 mm wetsuit, depending on the
season. A dependable 4x4 vehicle, spare parts and tires, camping gear, food and water for at least
a week and a good first aid kit.
Getting There: Perth is the main international airport in WA, and is accessible from all over the
country, as well as a number of overseas airports. Airport code: PER.
41
Region | Caribbean
Caribbean
Barbados
Barbados is not a well-known surf destination, but with a handful of quality setups, a wellestablished local surf scene and a hardcore group of loyal visitors, the place is definitely worth a
look. Although it might be tempting to categorize the island as “Jamaica with better waves,” the
locals would surely take exception to this assertion, as Barbados has a unique, thriving local culture
—in addition to world class barrels at Soup Bowl!
The Surf: Mostly reef breaks, with a few sand bars and points as well. In general, this is an
intermediate surf destination, but large days at Soup Bowl are for advanced and expert surfers
only.
Soup Bowl: This wave has already been mentioned twice, and for good reason. The best
wave on the island, Soup Bowl is a very hollow righthand reef that Kelly Slater has listed as one of
his favorites in the world. Unfortunately, it is also susceptible to bad wind, making this perfect
barrel relatively fickle.
Brandon’s: Offshore in the predominant wind, Brandon’s is a left reef break that needs a bit
of southern ground swell or wrap-around wind swell.
Duppies: One of the longer waves on the island, Duppies is a righthand reef/point that
needs some size to start working and pumps on big swells.
Paradise: An extremely inconsistent but perfect righthand reef/point, this wave has near
mythical status. If you luck into the right swell, don’t miss the opportunity to surf it!
Sand Bank: An ever-changing sandbar near to Soup Bowl, this wave can range from soft and
sloppy to hollow and perfect.
The Water: Barbados is surrounded by the clean blue water of the Caribbean, and the year round
warmth makes the island a pleasure to surf. Surface temps range from 79 to 84 F (26 to 29 C).
The Season: When you come depends on which side of the island you intend to surf, but since
most visitors are looking to score Soup Bowl, the main season stretches from September through
February.
The Vibe: There is definitely an established surf community on the island, and the best lineups
can be quite crowded. However, the local people are some of the friendliest around, so as long as
you come with a good attitude and wait your turn, you should have no problems.
Things To Do: Lounge on the beach. Listen to reggae and dub. Drink rum. This is the Caribbean—
you don’t need to do anything!
Where To Stay: Barbados has a number of five-star hotels and beach resorts—particularly on the
popular west coast—but for those on a budget, you can check out the various guesthouses and
surf-centric accommodations.
42
Region | Caribbean
What To Bring: A shortboard and a good step-up for big Soup Bowl (which, if you haven’t figured
it out yet, is the main reason to surf Barbados). Surf accessories (which you can give away to locals
when you leave). A comfortable pair of shorts and flip-flops. Travel insurance that covers reef rash.
An irie attitude.
Getting There: Grantley Adams International Airport in Seawall, Christ Church, is the main
gateway into Barbados, and is a short 25-minute drive from Bathsheba, the island’s main surf zone.
Visas not required for citizens of many countries. For most others, visas should be arranged before
arrival. Airport code: BGI.
43
Region | Caribbean
Dominican Republic
Photo thanks to Hooked Cabarete. Find out more about staying here.
Hispaniola houses two strikingly contrasting countries—Haiti, one of the poorest and most deforested in the world, and the Dominican Republic, which has one of the largest economies in the
Caribbean and a largely intact rainforest. While academics, environmentalists and sociologists will
argue the various causes for this disparity, one thing is indisputable—while Haiti sees virtually no
visitors (with the exception of aid workers), the Dominican Republic is a popular tourist destination,
and has much to offer the intrepid surf wanderer.
The Surf: With dozens of different waves breaking over assorted coral reefs and sandbars, the
Dominican Republic is an intermediate surf destination.
Encuentro: Located in Cabarete (the kite and windsurfing capital of the Caribbean),
Encuentro can offer up a short, heavy right and a long left when the wind permits.
Arenaso: This rocky beach break supplies heavy barrels and is popular with the
bodyboarding crowd.
Sosua: One of the only reef passes in the Dominican Republic, the left at this peak is better
than the right, but both are hollow and heavy.
Destroyer: With such a frightening moniker, you’d think Destroyer is a gnarly wave—and
you’d be correct. Located near Encuentro, this dangerous reef peak has some of the heaviest
barrels on Hispaniola.
Cabarete Beach: In addition to its plentiful reefs, Cabarete also has beach break peaks on
offer for those looking for a mellower surf experience.
The Water: Like other destinations in the Caribbean, as long as you are outside of heavily
populated areas, the water is a beautiful crystal blue. Surface temps range from 79 to 84 F (26 to
29 C) year round.
44
Region | Caribbean
The Season: The Dominican Republic has two surfable coasts, each firing during different surf
seasons. The south coast is typically best in spring and summer (March through August), while the
north coast gets large swell (accompanied by a lot of wind) in fall and winter (September through
March).
The Vibe: There is an established surf scene in the Dominican Republic, and some reports of
aggressive localism, but for the most part the locals are welcoming and friendly. If you tread
carefully at crowded spots and come with a good attitude, you should be all right.
Hooked Cabarete | View Details
Bobo´s Surf School DR | View Details
Things To Do: For a bit of local scenery and culture, check out Los Haitises National Park, Punta
Cana Ecological Park and Museo de las Casas Reales.
Where To Stay: For surf access, Cabarete is quite convenient, and the Swell Surf Camp is a good
option there.
What To Bring: A shortboard, and a step-up if you are coming in winter. Lots of board shorts and
a good pair of flip-flops. Sun protection and a bag full of surf accessories, as local shops can be
quite expensive. Your favorite baseball jersey (the sport is huge here).
Getting There: Santa Domingo has two international airports and is a convenient starting point if
you are heading to the south coast, while Puerto Plata has Gegorio Luperon International Aiport,
with easy access to Cabarete on the north coast. Most visitors require a tourist card, which are
available upon arrival. Airport codes: SDQ and JQB (Santa Domingo) and POP (Puerto Plata).
45
Region | Caribbean
Jamaica
Jamaica—the spiritual home of Rastafarianism and reggae—gave the world Bob Marley, dreadlocks
and a legitimate excuse to toke up, but what a lot of people don’t realize is that it has much to
offer to the surf community as well. Although not the first spot that might pop into your head
when dreaming of Caribbean barrels, Jamaica has always offered more than one way to get irie.
The Surf: Mostly reef breaks, although there are a few points and river mouths as well. Jamaica
has hollow waves, but isn’t really known as a heavy water destination, making this area appropriate
for beginner through advanced surfers.
Boston Bay: Jamaica’s most famous wave, Boston Bay is a left and right reef peak tucked
away in a beautiful little cove.
on.
Lighthouse: A righthand reef break in Kingston that is one of Jamaica’s best barrels when it’s
The Zoo: The best wave in Jamaica—and one of the best in the world—until Hurricane Ivan
destroyed it in 2004. In its glory days, The Zoo was a perfect barreling peak breaking over reef.
Although the wave is now little more than a has-been, there are many who dream of the day its
cobblestone boulders find their way back to their proper settings.
Makka: A lefthand point break that can be fun but somewhat gutless.
Copa: A righthand reef in Bull Bay that can handle size.
The Water: Outside of Kingston you are looking at water that is beautiful, clean and Caribbean
blue—and warm to boot. Surface temps ranges from 81 to 84 F (27 to 29 C).
The Season: Summer (May through August) has consistent trade wind swell, but is also quite
windy, while winter (November through February) has great conditions and relatively consistent
longer interval swell. Autumn and spring are typically pretty flat.
The Vibe: Jamaica is the epitome of mellow, and the small local surf scene is pretty welcoming of
visitors. Still, you’d do well to respect the locals and come with a good attitude—and watch your
back while wandering the streets of Kingston.
Things To Do: This is the land of the Rasta, so relax, unwind, enjoy quality music and meet some
of the Caribbean’s most mellow people.
Where To Stay: There are a handful of surf camps in Jamaica that are affordable and convenient.
Although it is possible to do a trip independently, local knowledge comes in handy.
What To Bring: A standard shortboard. Surf accessories to use and leave with the locals when
your trip is over. A good attitude and a mellow vibe. Rolling papers.
46
Region | Caribbean
Getting There: Sangster International in Montego and Norman Manley International near
Kingston are your two main gateways to the island. Tourist visas not required for citizens of many
countries. For most others, visas are available upon arrival. Airport codes: MBJ (Sangster) and KIN
(Norman Manley).
47
Region | Caribbean
Puerto Rico
Puerto Rico had its big coming out in 2010 when Rip Curl ran their Search contest on the island,
but this exotic US commonwealth territory has been a tropical destination for surfers in the know
since the 1950s. Combining the stability of home with the novelty of a foreign culture, Puerto Rico
might be one of the safest and most convenient overseas trips available to US residents—and in
case you’ve been too busy searching elsewhere to notice, the waves are epic.
The Surf: A mix of heavy reef breaks and user-friendly beachies, Puerto Rico has spots that are
great for beginners. However, most visiting surfers are looking to surf intermediate to advanced
waves.
Middles: The location of the 2010 Rip Curl Search event, this bowly righthand reef offers up
barrels, walls and sucky launch pads, making it a good wave for just about every type of surfing.
Gas Chambers: Puerto Rico’s best wave? If crowds and spitting barrels are any indication,
then probably so. Although extremely fickle, when this righthand tube is on, there probably isn’t
anywhere else in PR you’d rather be.
Indicators: A shallow, hollow right that can offer up great barrels and is often less crowded
than other nearby spots due to its danger factor.
Tres Palmas: Puerto Rico’s token big wave spot—except that there is nothing token about
this bombing righthand reef that can handle waves in excess of 30 feet.
Pools: A great beach for lying out, Pools can also offer up rippable peaks and the occasional
barrel, making it a nice place to spend an afternoon with your family.
The Water: Aside from Hawaii, Puerto Rico is the closest thing the US has to tropical paradise,
and the blue Caribbean water does not disappoint. Surface temps vary seasonally from 79 to 84 F
(26 to 29 C), so it almost feels as if you are surfing in bathwater.
The Season: While there can be waves all year, the best hurricane swells come in fall (August
through November), the big wave season is in winter (December through February) and the wind is
typically best in spring (February through April).
The Vibe: Heavy. Puerto Rico has a lot of surfers—and a lot of GOOD surfers. The talent pool here
extends beyond big names like Dylan Graves, Brian Toth, Carlos Cabrero and Otto Flores, and with a
population of quality surfers comes a competitive and well-protected lineup. It is possible to score
waves alone, but the best spots will be crowded and the vibes will be heavy.
48
Region | Caribbean
Rincon Surf School | View Details
Things To Do: Puerto Rico has long been called the “Hawaii of the Atlantic”—an indicator that
you are in for a relaxing holiday in the sun. If you tire of lounging on the beach or in a hammock,
the nightlife can be quite entertaining, with lots of rum, beautiful women and salsa dancing.
Where To Stay: Hotels and hostels abound, so where you locate yourself will depend on your
budget and what waves you intend to surf.
What To Bring: A shortboard and a step-up, plus a gun if you are coming in winter and intend to
charge. Lots of board shorts, as you will practically live in them. Adequate sun protection and any
surf accessories you will need—although there are a number of surf shops available. Your favorite
recipe for a rum-infused cocktail.
Getting There: Luis Munoz Marin International Airport is your main gateway into Puerto Rico and
is easily accessible from a number of East Coast cities. US visa rules apply. Airport code: SJU.
49
Region | Central America
Central America
Costa Rica
Photo thanks to Las Avellanas Villas Costa Rica. Find out about staying here
One of the most popular travel destinations on the planet for US (and other) surfers, Costa Rica has
been “gringoed out” for at least a decade, but still offers up fun, warm, consistent waves and an
unparalleled beachside nightlife. The classic Central American surf holiday, CR is like spring break
with waves—an endless celebration of the surf/party lifestyle.
The Surf: Primarily beach breaks and points, with a few reefs thrown in for good measure.
Although some spots can be a bit heavy, for the most part this is a beginner to intermediate level
destination.
Pavones: The best left in the world? You decide while walking back up the point after the
longest wave of your life.
Witch’s Rock: Also called Playa Naranjo, this playful, often perfect beach break set up
featured in Endless Summer II.
Ollie’s Point: The Costa Rican Rincon, this righthand point has a fickle swell window but can
be great on a longboard when it’s small, and is downright epic at head high.
Mal Pais: If you are looking for nightlife along with your waves, this is the place to go. A
series of forgiving beach breaks fronts a dusty strip lined with bars and clubs filled with
backpackers and surf-trippers.
Salsa Brava: Lest we forget, Costa Rica has a Caribbean coast as well. Allen Weisbecker
memorialized this heavy righthand reef slab in his entertaining book In Search of Captain Zero.
The Water: Costa Rica is nine degrees from the equator and the water is downright heavenly.
Although it can be dirty near major cities, less developed areas are still tropical paradise, with clean
water and year round temps of 82 F (29 C)+.
50
The Season: There are typically waves all year, although April through September is usually the
biggest and December through April has the best wind. September through November is the
rainiest part of the year, but prices seem to go down, making this a good time for the bargain
hunter. If there was an “off-season,” it would be Dec/Jan/Feb.
The Vibe: Costa Rica is crowded—there is no getting around the fact. Gringos have been coming
and setting up shop since the ’80s, and the local Ticos are in on the surf thing now too, so you are
going to have to go to great lengths to surf by yourself. That being said, if you get up early (while
everyone else is hungover) and are respectful of the locals, you’ll get your waves. There are more
than enough to go around.
Lucero – Costa Rica Surf Vacations |
Costa Rica Surf Institute| View Details
View Details
Sunset Surf Dominical – Dominical Surf
Camp| View Details
Things To Do: Aside from surfing (and partying, which seems to be the national pastime), you
can check out the various jungles and national parks, zip line above rainforests, explore the
mountains or simply relax in a hammock on the beach.
Where To Stay: There are hostels, hotels, resorts, eco-lodges and surf camps all over the
country. Search in your budget and take your pick.
Surf Camps:
Sunset Surf Dominical - Find on Surf Sleep Travel
Address: 50 meters east of the refuge in domi locos, Dominical | Phone:
Jaco Inn Surf Camp - We offer Surf lessons everyday, canopy tour, waterfalls tour, transport, and lodging.
- Find on Surf Sleep Travel
Address: Avenida Pastor Diaz, Jacó | Phone: (506) 83329078
La Oveja Negra surf hostel - Learn to surf for $550. - Find on Surf Sleep Travel
Address: Calle Principal, Tamarindo, Guanacaste | Phone: +506 2653-0005
Accommodation
Great house steps from Langosta break – A few steps from the world class surfbreak of Langosta and Tamarindo Find
on Surf Sleep Travel
Address: Tamarindo
Surf Camp Mediterraneo – only 3 minutes away from the main entrance to Playa Avellanas.
Address: Playa Avellanas | Phone: 00506 - 26534169
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Funky Monkey Lodge – Beach lodge for solo travelers, couples, families or groups
Address: Playa Santa Teresa | Phone: 50626400272
Playa Hermosa Lodge – Just 5 minutes drive from the Playa Hermosa Beach protected reserve and world class surf
beach break. - Find on Surf Sleep Travel
Address: Playa Hermosa, Jaco
What To Bring: Depending on your skill level and the waves you intend to surf, a shortboard or
log, or both. For the rank beginner, there are rental boards pretty much everywhere. Lots of surf
accessories available as well, but you’d do well to bring your own supplies if you don’t want to get
ripped off. A rash guard or some other form of sun protection. Your dancing shoes if you are the
partying type.
Getting There: Fly into San Jose—or Liberia if you are going to the Tamarindo area—then catch a
taxi or bus to wherever it is you plan to base yourself. Visas are unnecessary for visitors from many
countries, and for everyone else they are available upon arrival. Airport codes: LIR (Liberia), SJO
(San Jose).
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Ecuador
As the country’s name suggests, Ecuador is centrally located, sitting directly on the equator and
thus picking up both north and south swells, making it one of the few Pacific destinations that is as
consistent in summer as it is in winter. Toss in beautiful scenery, minimal crowds and the Galapagos
Islands, and Ecuador qualifies as a low-risk, high-reward destination for the everyman naturalist
with a penchant for wave riding.
The Surf: Although best known for its righthand point breaks, Ecuador also houses countless
beach break and reef setups. Due to the long distances swells must travel to arrive on its equatorial
coastline, Ecuador is generally a beginner to intermediate surf destination, with a handful of
advanced spots thrown into the mix.
La Chueka: A powerful beach break near Salinas, this peak can provide draining barrels to
rival many of the world’s big-name sandbars.
Puerto Cayo: Another beach break setup with lefts and rights that can barrel at low tide.
Manta: A righthand sandbar setup off of a jetty, Manta is popular with the bodyboarders
due to its punchy barrels and is surrounded by a great nightlife/social scene.
Engabao: A classic righthand point break that picks up S and SW swells (making it a
summertime spot).
Galapagos Islands: While the Galapagos are famous for their flora and fauna, what many
don’t realize is that the islands are also holding a number of world-class reef breaks.
The Water: The water on the mainland can be quite beautiful, especially away from cities, and of
course the water in the Galapagos Islands is about as pristine as it comes. Surface temps range
from 70 to 79 F (21 to 26C).
The Season: Perhaps the best thing about Ecuador (from a surfer’s perspective at least) is the
fact that it picks up both north and south hemi swells, which means the country enjoys consistent
swell year round. That being said, winds are best between December and March, coinciding with
north swells, while the south swell season (April through September) can often suffer from an
onshore flow.
The Vibe: Although the surf scene in Ecuador is growing and a few of the more popular spots can
be crowded, for the most part this is still one of surfing’s frontiers. With a little imagination and a
desire to get off the beaten track, you are quite likely to surf by your lonesome.
Things To Do: The Galapagos Islands are one of the most ecologically rich regions on the planet,
so even if you don’t end up scoring waves there, the plant and wildlife alone should be enough to
make your trip worthwhile.
Where To Stay: Ecuador has a wide range of accommodation options, from hotels and hostels to
surf camps and eco-focused live-aboards. You’ll most likely want to locate yourself somewhere
near the surf (i.e., Manta, Montanita, Las Salinas, Baja Manabi, etc.).
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Accommodation
Paraiso Surf Hostel – One of the best backpacker hangouts in Canoa, South West Coast of Ecuador
Address: Canoa, Manabi |Phone: +593993206415
What To Bring: Your standard shortboard and a backup. All necessary surf accessories, especially
if you intend to get off the beaten track. A 4x4 vehicle if you are looking to explore. Sun protection
(you are literally on the equator). Hiking shoes, a snorkel and mask and a copy of Darwin’s Voyage
of the Beagle and On the Origin of Species.
Getting There: Guayaquil and Quito are the main international airports, and domestic flights can
be arranged to Manta. Tourist visas are available to citizens of all countries. Airport codes: GYE
(Guayaquil), UIO (Mariscal Sucre International Airport, near Quito) and MEC (Manta).
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El Salvador
Literally translated as “the savior,” El Salvador could perhaps more fittingly be called “regular-foot
heaven.” A number of epic righthand points line the coast of this Central American country, and
with the political situation stabilizing and surf-centric accommodations and other services popping
up all over the place, El Salvador is quickly becoming another popular getaway for the millions of
North American surfers looking to vacation out of the US but near to home. Which translates, of
course, to “get it while it’s still good.”
The Surf: El Salvador is best known for rock and cobblestone righthand points, but there are also
beach breaks, river mouths and even the occasional reef in the area. In general, this is a surf zone
for intermediate+ surfers.
Punta Roca (La Libertad): The original El Salvadoran discovery, this point break is one of the
best head high righthanders in the world.
La Paz: The inside section at Punta Roca, this wave is quite a bit softer than the hollow
outside wave and is much better suited to beginner surfers.
Playa Conchalio: A series of beach break peaks west of Punta Roca, Conchalio is typically
surfable even when everywhere else in the region is too small.
Zunzal: Another beautiful righthand point 30 minutes from La Libertad, Zunzal is quite
consistent, but can also be quite crowded.
San Blas: Located between Punta Roca and Zunzal, San Blas is another series of beach break
peaks and is convenient if you are staying somewhere near Club San Blas.
The Water: Not the cleanest water around. El Salvador’s points are known more for being brown
than blue, but it isn’t like there is raw sewage floating in the lineup, so that's a plus. Surface temps
hover between 80 to 84 F (27 to 29 C) year round, so you’ll never need a wetsuit.
The Season: Although El Salvador picks up waves year round, the biggest south swells come in
the rainy season (summer, which is June through September), and it is relatively small in the dry
season (winter). Some would argue that spring (March through May) is the best time to visit, as it
is still relatively dry, offshores are common and early south swells are just starting to pump.
The Vibe: There are a lot of local surfers in El Salvador, and a lot of visiting surfers as well, so
crowds can be an issue. Just as worrisome is the ongoing crime problem in the area, so do your
best to travel in groups and watch each other’s backs.
Things To Do: There are a number of famous natural landmarks worth visiting in the country,
such as the Coatepeque Caldera and Lake Ilopango. If you are a fan of culture and architecture, San
Salvador has a lot to offer.
Where To Stay: If you are basing yourself around La Libertad, you will find a number of surf
camps and surf hostels available, as well as hotels and other forms of accommodation. Elsewhere,
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things are not as set up for tourists, but you shouldn’t have trouble finding a place to stay.
Accommodation
Miraflores Hotel – Miraflores Hotel in front of world-class surf points Punta Las Flores and
just a boat ride away from Punta Mango. - Find on Surf Sleep Travel
Address: PLaya Las Flores, El Cuco, San Miguel | Phone: 0050378904751
What To Bring: A shortboard. Whatever surf accessories you’ll need, as you’ll pay dearly if you
have to buy them locally. Surf booties if you are not comfortable with rocky shorelines and lineups.
A friend or two, so you have someone to watch your back on shore and your backpack while you
surf.
Getting There: El Salvador International Airport is located around 50 km from San Salvador, and
is your main entry into the country. From there, you can either catch a bus into San Salvador or
arrange direct transport to La Libertad—or wherever else you intend to explore. Tourist visas not
required for citizens of most countries. Airport code: SAL.
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Nicaragua
What Costa Rica was 25 years ago (before the gringos came and bought up all the land), Nicaragua
is today—cheap, warm, beautiful, consistent and relatively empty. The icing on the cake is Lake
Nicaragua, which produces daily offshore winds that groom the country’s reefs, points and beach
breaks into glassy perfection. Nicaragua’s popularity as a surf destination is growing rapidly, and it
isn’t hard to imagine the country getting “gringoed out” ala its southern neighbor. For now,
however, the dream of empty, quality waves still exists, which means there has never been a better
time to head to Central America.
The Surf: While lacking the celebrated big-name waves of neighboring Costa Rica, Nicaragua does
have a plentitude of great setups, with the majority being beach breaks and reefs. In general, this
region is appropriate for beginner to intermediate surfers.
Colorados: Perhaps Nicaragua’s most celebrated wave, this river mouth beach break is
known for perfectly groomed overhead barrels. While its popularity can result in crowds, access is
pretty difficult unless you are staying right at the break, so empty morning sessions are possible.
Punta Miramar: A lefthand reef/point that is typically offshore all day, this wave is
surrounded by a number of other beach breaks and reefs, making the Miramar region a good
home base.
Santana: Another quality beach break setup, this is one of the more popular waves in the
country, so crowds can sometimes be a factor. It’s quite consistent though, and usually worth it.
Puerto Sandino: A sand-bottom left point breaking off of a river mouth, Sandino is one of
the longest waves in the region and boasts rides of up to 300 meters. Less crowded than many of
Nicaragua’s well-known spots, this wave is somewhat of a swell magnet, but is also susceptible to
bad wind conditions.
Outer Reef/Popoyo: A lefthand slab that handles size, this wave requires boat access and is
arguably Nicaragua’s best big wave/heavy water spot.
The Water: Like many Central American countries, the water in Nicaragua is somewhat dirty in
developed areas but clean everywhere else. Water temps hover around 80 F (27 C), although
strong offshores in the winter can drop surface temps in some locations.
The Season: May through August sees consistent south swells and light to moderate offshore
winds, making this the best season to visit. However, fall and spring are typically less crowded, so it
may be worth risking less consistent swells for empty lineups. Winter (December through
February) is typically lacking in swell, windy as heck and relatively cold.
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The Vibe: The local surf scene in Nicaragua is growing pretty rapidly, with both residents and
tourists paddling out in droves. Although not as busy as some other Central American regions, the
most popular spots in Nicaragua definitely suffer from crowd pressures. Choose where and when
you surf wisely, and paddle out with a healthy dose of respect. You shouldn’t have any trouble
getting your fair share of waves.
Things To Do: If the surf isn’t cooperating and you are looking for some alternative
entertainment, you can always visit the beautiful Lake Nicaragua and thank her in person for
making this country one of the most offshore surf destinations on the planet.
Where To Stay: Nicaragua is full of surf camps, surf resorts, surf hotels, surf hostels, surf shacks…
if it involves sleeping near quality surf, they have it. Price varies depending on the quality of your
accommodation, but there is something for virtually every budget.
Surf Camps:
We are strategically positioned right in front of one of the best reef breaks of Nicaragua, in a place blessed by
waves all over and Off shore winds..
Address: De la cancha de Miramar 1 cuadra abaja 15 varas sur .|Phone: (505) 83332234
What To Bring: A good beach break shortboard and a step-up if you are looking to charge. Wax,
leashes and other surf accessories. A tent if you plan on going feral and searching out lesspopulated stretches of coast for unsurfed/uncrowded waves. A windbreaker jacket.
Getting There: Managua is the main international airport and sees frequent flights from the US
East Coast, as well as southern hubs such as Houston and Atlanta. Tourist visas are not required for
citizens of many countries. Airport code: MGA.
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Panama
Panama is better known for its canal and hats than it is for its surf—but that doesn’t mean it’s not
holding. While Nicaragua and Costa Rica have been practically overrun with gringos, Panama is still
relatively empty, even though it enjoys the same warm water and swell season as its Central
American neighbors. One can only imagine that Panama will be the next country to fall to the everincreasing American surf appetite, so our suggestion is to get while it’s good.
The Surf: With coastlines on both the Pacific and Caribbean, Panama has a lot of potential. The
waves break predominantly over reef, although there are also a number of beach breaks and
points. Panama should be considered an intermediate to advanced destination, but certain spots
on certain days definitely qualify as expert only.
Playa Santa Catalina: The best wave on Panama’s Pacific coast (and arguably the best right in
Central America), this reef A-frame has a long hollow right and a short bowly left.
Bocas del Toro: A region rather than a single wave, this is the most wave-dense stretch of
coast on the Caribbean side and is holding numerous advanced to expert waves.
Punta Roca: It seems as if every Spanish-speaking country has a “Punta Roca,” and Panama is
no exception. This hollow left reef can get a bit crowded, but is worth it if you score.
Morro Negrito Island: Located off the Pacific coast of Panama, Morro Negrito Island has a
number of quality setups.
Sebaco: A quality reef with both lefts and rights, this wave is located on an offshore island in
the Playa Santa Catalina region. You’ll most likely need a guide to find it.
The Water: Beautiful and clean outside of over-developed areas, and very warm. Surface temps
hover right around 80 F (27 C).
The Season: For the Caribbean coast, late fall and winter (November through April). For the
Pacific coast, late spring and summer are best (April through August).
The Vibe: There is a well-developed local surf scene in Panama, plus a consistent crowd of
visitors, especially in the more popular areas such as Playa Santa Catalina and Bocas del Toro. It is
definitely possible to get off the beaten path and find empty waves, but if you want to surf
Panama’s marquee spots, you’ll have to deal with a crowd.
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Private Panama Surf Island |
View Details
Things To Do: Party down in Panama City. Tour the famous canal. Lounge on the beach and drink
cervezas after an all-day barrel fest. What more do you need?
Where To Stay: Fortunately (or not, depending on your perspective), surf camps and hostels are
proliferating quickly in Panama, which means you—and everyone else—will have no problem
finding a place to stay.
What To Bring: A shortboard, a step-up and a minigun/gun if you are a serious charger. Board
shorts and upper body sun protection. Mosquito repellant. Spare leashes if you are planning to
surf the heavier spots. A dose of respect for the locals will go a long way towards getting you
waves.
Getting There: Tocumen International Airport is a short 25 km outside of Panama City and
receives frequent flights from the US East Coast and California. Tourist visas are unnecessary for
citizens of many countries. Airport code: PTY.
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europe
France
(Photo thanks to Boardingmania Surf Camp, Snow Camp and Surf School find out more here)
Ah, France—everyone’s favorite stop on tour. And really, what’s not to like? With epic waves, a
hoppin’ nightlife and more beautiful women than you can (ahem) shake a stick at, France isn’t just
paradise for pros, but for the everyman traveler as well. When autumn’s pristine weather,
consistent swells, fortuitous sandbars and lengthy daylight hours come together, there aren’t many
better places in the world to be a surfer.
The Surf: Beach breaks are the main currency in France, with the sandbars around Hossegor
being some of the best in the world. Depending on the size of the swell, France can range from a
beginner to advanced surf destination.
Hossegor: There is a reason the pro tour comes here every year, and that reason is perfect
barrels. Widely considered one of the best series of sandbars in the game, Hossegor continues to
deliver, year after year—even after the circus leaves town.
Graviere: La Graviere is a patch of sand in the heart of Hossegor that takes the words
“world’s best beach break” and turns them into reality. This is the crown jewel of French surfing,
European beach breaks and perhaps sand-bottom barrels altogether.
Anglet: A series of beach break peaks in the Basque country that is as good now as it was
when Tom Curren called the area home.
Biarritz: Fun, user-friendly waves breaking in the shadow of a castle—does it get any more
European that that?
Mundaka: Okay, technically Mundaka is in Spain—but it’s just across the border from France,
and it’s the best river mouth barrel in the world. If it breaks and you don’t cross the border, you are
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making a serious mistake.
The Water: Not too dirty, considering the development along the coastline—but not exactly
crystal clear either. Water temps vary drastically, from the low 70s F (low 20s C) in summer to the
low 50s F (12 C) in winter.
The Season: Early fall (September/October) is the best time to be a surfer in France, with
plentiful swells, good weather, long days and a fair amount of scantily clad flesh on the beaches.
Summer (May through August) has more of the latter and less of the former, while winter
(December through February) can be downright frigid, although quite consistent. Spring is still
cold, but lacks the consistency of winter.
The Vibe: The French love surfing and surfers love the French—it’s a win/win situation, until you
find yourself sharing a peak with hundreds of fellow grovelers. Dawn patrols are relatively empty,
so the trick to scoring empty waves is resisting the temptation to party all night. Good luck with
that.
Biarritz French and Surf| View Details
Boardriders House| View Details
Element Called Water-Surfcamp| View
Details
Things To Do: Food, wine, culture, clubs, parties and of course bikini-clad (or not) beauties—you
won’t even notice when the surf goes flat.
Where To Stay: There are many places to stay in and around France’s beach towns, and most of
them will cost you a pretty penny. But France has always attracted as many cheapskates and
swindlers (Miki Dora ring a bell?) as posh socialites, so between hostels, caravans and drunken
hookups, it’s unlikely that you’ll find yourself out on the streets.
Surf Camps:
Boardingmania Surf Camp, Snow Camp and Surf School – Induldge yourself in the comfort of our alternative to
the standard Surf Camp with our ‘Cosy’, ‘Stylish’, ‘Designer’ and ‘Luxury’ accommodation options.
Address: 4 Place des Bourdaines, 40510, Seignosse |Phone: 0033 (0) 663 67 39 61
Accommodation
Feral Surf Tipi Village, Bordeaux, France – Feral Surf Camp is based in the Bordeaux region,
famously know for its sun, sea, food and amazing wine. - Find on Surf Sleep Travel
Address: 60 route du pin sec, Naujac-sur-mer, 33990 |Phone: +44 800 6123 516
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VanTripper – campervan hire– Find on Surf Sleep Travel
Address: Moliets et maa, 40660
What To Bring: A bag full of shortboards. Rubber suits of various thicknesses, depending on
when you come and how long you stay (many never leave). A taste for the finer things in life and a
pocket full of cash to get them. A French/English dictionary.
Getting There: Although Charles De Gaulle International Airport in Paris is the main gateway into
the country, Biarritz Airport is much closer to the surf. Tourist visas are available upon arrival.
Airport codes: CDG (Charles De Gaulle) and BIQ (Biarritz).
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Ireland
The Emerald Isle isn’t the easiest place to score waves, what with fickle conditions, inclement
weather, cold water and a half dozen of the world’s scariest waves. But it is as beautiful as
destinations come and practically dripping with history, so a visit is well worth it. And you never
know—with the luck of the Irish on your side, you just might score the trip of a lifetime.
The Surf: Cold and rugged, Ireland is best known for its slabby reefs, although there are also river
mouths, beach breaks and points to be found. In general, this is an intermediate to expert
destination.
Bundoran: One of the most popular spots in Ireland, Bundoran is a left and right peak over
reef that can handle size—in fact, some would say it doesn’t really get good until it’s double
overhead. One of the island’s best waves, so there is nearly always a crowd.
Kilcummin: A soft lefthand point, Kilcummin is one of the more user-friendly waves in a land
full of mutants.
Mullaghmore: Forget massive Cloudbreak—if you want to see the cutting edge of big wave
lefthand barrel riding, Mullaghmore is the place to be. Unfortunately, the wave is so heavy that it is
rarely paddled with any kind of size. But for those who enjoy towing 50-foot barrels, there
probably isn’t anywhere better.
Aileen’s: Anyone who has been watching the progression of Irish heavy water charging over
the past few years (think Fergal Smith and crew) has seen what this big wave righthand
bombie/slab is capable of. For those who haven’t, it’s time to get with the program.
Streedagh Strand: With strong, consistent sideshore winds, this righthander is a good option
for kitesurfers.
The Water: Cold and dark, though relatively unpolluted. How cold, you might ask? Booties, gloves
and 5/4/3 hooded wetsuit cold—59 F (15 C) in summer and 48 F (9 C) in winter.
The Season: Fall (September through November) is best, with consistent swells and relatively
tame weather. Winter (December through February) pumps, but can be incredibly stormy and cold,
and is basically for big wave freaks. Spring (March through May) has nicer weather, but can be a bit
fickle, while summer (June through August) is beautiful and relatively warm, but can go flat for
weeks at a time.
The Vibe: The more crowded spots—such as The Peak at Bundoran—can be tense, and the Irish
are renowned for their drunken fighting skills. They are also known for being a friendly, welcoming
people, however, so if you come with respect and a good attitude, you should be fine.
Things To Do: Drinking is the national pastime, and understandably so, since the weather can go
bad for weeks at a time. Castles abound for the history buff, and you can’t miss if you are an
outdoor enthusiast—after all, they don’t call it The Emerald Isle for nothing.
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Where To Stay: Bundoran is your best option, as it has access to a number of nearby waves. If
you are coming in winter to charge the heavy stuff, you’ll probably want to make some on-island
contacts ahead of time, as the local crew has the place wired.
Accommodation
Churchfield B & B – Churchfield B & B is situated near to the surf spots of Aileens & Crab Island. Find on Surf Sleep Travel
Address: Doolin | Phone: +353 (0)65 707 4209
What To Bring: A shortboard and 4mm wetsuit in late summer and early fall. A big wave gun and
the thickest rubber you can find in winter. A taste for whiskey and a love for rain.
Getting There: Dublin International Airport is your best bet, as it's a short four-hour drive from
Bundoran. Citizens of many countries do not require a visa before arrival. Airport code: DUB.
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Italy
Italy doesn’t often come to mind when considering destinations for future surf trips, but when
combined with the country’s culture, food and architecture, the surf on the Mediterranean can
make for an interesting adventure. And don’t think that Italy is just for honeymooners looking to
score waves on the sly. One viewing of Timmy Curran’s section in the travel/surf film Sipping
Jetstreams should convince even the most dubious skeptic that Italy can pump—you just have to
know where to be and when to be there.
The Surf: Short interval beach breaks and points for the most part—but you’d be surprised at how
good the waves can actually get. In general, this is a beginner to intermediate surf destination.
Banzai: An optimistically named spot to be sure, Banzai is one of Italy’s few waves that
breaks over reef (its only similarity to Hawaii’s Pipeline). A left and right peak, this wave suffers
from crowding more than the area beach breaks by merit of its small takeoff zone.
Santa Augostino: A lengthy lefthand sand point that can get quite good under the right
conditions.
Levanto: A relatively sheltered bay that needs large swell to pump, Levanto can hold swell
up to double overhead+, making it one of Italy’s bigger waves.
Sardinia: One of Italy’s two island surf destinations, Sardinia holds some of the best surf in
the Mediterranean, with a number of beach and reef break options.
Sicily: Italy’s other island outpost, Sicily has a handful of fun spots—and a dodgy reputation
for Mafiosos.
The Water: The Mediterranean doesn’t contain the clearest water in the world, but it does have
its moments, especially away from developed areas. Temperatures can vary drastically by season,
from 57 to 75 F (14 to 24 C)
The Season: Surfing in the Mediterranean requires a lot of flexibility, as swells are very short
lived, typically lasting less than a day. Winter sees bigger storms, but this can be a double-edged
sword. Summer can go flat for weeks at a time. As with most places, fall (September through
November) is your best bet.
The Vibe: The top spots can get quite crowded when they are good, but for the most part the
local scene is pretty mellow.
Things To Do: What to do in Italy? Here are a few ideas: Rome, Venice, Florence, Cinque Terra,
Milan, Pisa. That should keep you busy for a year or so.
Where To Stay: There are many hostels and hotels available in Italy, but for a truly flexible and
convenient way to see the country, consider renting a caravan.
What To Bring: A shortboard with a bit of extra volume and a longboard as a backup. A thickish
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wetsuit if you are coming in winter. A taste for vino, pasta and high fashion. Lots of patience.
Getting There: Major airports near the coast include Rome, Naples, Pisa and Genoa, but you can
also fly into Sardinia (Calgliari) and Sicily (Palermo). Visas are unnecessary for citizens of many
countries. Airport codes: FCO (Rome), FLR (Florence), PSA (Pisa), GOA (Genoa), CAG (Calgliari) and
PMO (Palermo).
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Portugal
Pedra Branca – Ericeira. Photo thanks to Chill In Ericeira. Find out more about staying here.
Less than a decade ago, Portugal was known for little more than its surplus of sardines. In the past
five years, however, the country has burst onto the map as Europe’s new en vogue surf destination
—largely due to the popularity of the annual World Tour event at Supertubos and the media frenzy
that surrounded Garret Macnamara’s record-setting tow-in wave at Nazare in 2011 (and again in
early 2013). With the country’s tourist bureau currently promising a free return trip to anyone who
comes and doesn’t score waves, it’s hard to find a reason NOT to take your next surf holiday in
Portugal!
The Surf: Reefs, points, beach breaks and big wave spots—Portugal has it all, and consistency to
boot. There is something for everyone here, making this country appropriate for practically every
surfing level, from beginner to expert.
Supertubos: This one is a no-brainer. If you are still having reservations about Portugal as a
surf destination, search online for footage from John John Florence’s round two heat against Ace
Buchan in the 2011 WT event. This is as good as beach breaks get.
Nazare: Although the waves funneling through Nazare’s offshore canyon might be too big for
most mere mortals, this is a great venue for watching the world’s biggest beach break peaks
unload in all their glory, with waves breaking in excess of 80 feet.
Coxos: The best righthander in a country full of them, Coxos is a reef/point that has been
compared to J-Bay, Rincon and just about every other epic right point you can think of.
Praia do Norte: A fun right and left reef that can be a good pressure valve when everywhere
else is too crowded.
Carcavelos: One of the best—and dirtiest—beach break setups in the country, Carcavelos is
only a few miles out of Lisbon, making it a great option for those looking to spend some time in the
country’s capital.
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The Water: Filthy in urban areas such as Carcavelos, but pristine at some of the outlying points.
The biggest factor seems to be how many toilets are located within a 5-mile radius of where you
are surfing. As far as surface temperatures go, Portugal is similar to Southern California, ranging
from 59 to 70 F (15 to 21 C)
The Season: Portugal gets waves year round, but the World Tour rocks up in autumn, and they
typically know what they are doing. August through November sees the most consistent swells,
and the weather isn’t yet suffering from winter storms.
The Vibe: Surfing is huge in Portugal, with tons of surfers and tons of surfer groupies. The WT
contest at Supertubos is always one of the tour’s most-attended events, and local surf heroes are
virtually worshipped by the adoring throngs. Great news if you are looking to win a popularity
contest, but not so good if you are hoping to surf uncrowded waves.
Wavesensations | View Details
CHILL IN ERICEIRA | View Details
Epic Surf School| View Details
Algarve Surf School| View Details
Geckosurfhouse | View Details
Things To Do: The WT event at Supertubos in Peniche is always fun—if watching other people rip
is your idea of a good time. The country is rich in history, so tours of castles and other landmarks
are plentiful. If you are looking to party, Lisbon is the place to be.
Surf Schools:
Gota d`Água surfschool – We offer surf and paddle(SUP) lessons, surftrips and acommodation. Address: Avenida General Humberto Delgado 5, 2715-311 Costa da Caparica, Portugal | Phone:
00351 927 488 266
Surfivor Surf Camp – Our experience and professionalism guarantee a quality service and a great surf holiday
experience in Portugal. Address: Rua Pero Alenquer 555, 3885-607 Praia de Esmoriz | Phone: +351 939336434
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Supadupa Surfhouse – Supadupa surf house hopes to provide you a pleasant visit and an enjoyable accommodation
in Portugal! Address: Rua Bernardo Santareno 10 | Phone: 00351917228851
Moana Surf School – Moana Surf School offers surfing lessons & other outdoor activities. Address: Guincho Beach, Estrada do Guincho. Portugal | Phone:
Where To Stay: Portugal is set up for tourists and backpackers, and surfing is a major draw. You
should be able to find hotels and hostels at a variety of prices in all the popular surf towns.
Surf Camps:
Surfer’s Bay - Peniche – A Surf Camp with a privileged location and facilities located in an exclusive
place between Peniche, Baleal and Supertubos, known as the best surf spot in Europe. - Find on
Surf Sleep Travel Address: Rua Salgado Lote D2 2520-193 Peniche | Phone: (+351) 913 775 077
Sagres Natura Surf Camp - Offers to our guests a tropical garden with palm trees and a terrace for
sunbathing and hot tub with hot water. - Find on Surf Sleep Travel
Address: Rua Mestre António Galhardo | Phone: 282624072
Luz Surf Village – Apartments and surf camp with spectacular ocean view!
-Find on Surf SleepTravel
Address: EM537 1061D, 8600-119, Portogallo|Phone: 00351 920063217
Surfivor Surf Camp - Stay comfortably with your family, a friend or a partner and enjoy the
quietness and perfect beach front location. - Find on Surf Sleep Travel
Address: Rua Pero Alenquer 555, 3885-607 Praia de Esmoriz | Phone: +351 939336434
Jah Shaka Surf - Jah Shaka Surf provides high quality and great value surf instruction for all levels in
Portugal. - Find on Surf Sleep Travel
Address: Estrada da Luz – Burgau, Montinhos de Luz 8600-119 | Phone: 00351912773147
Baleal Surf Camp - Quality service within a unique setup for an international audience is achieved
with the help of a very skilled and dedicated staff. - Find on Surf Sleep Travel
Address: Rua Amigos do Baleal 2 2520-052 Ferrel-Peniche | Phone: +351262769277
Accommodation
Supertubos Beach Hostel – Supertubos Beach Hostel was created and decorated inspired by the
local Nature, in tranquility, adventure and life that inspires us. - Find on Surf Sleep Travel
Address: Avenida do Mar 59E, 2525-150, Portugal | Phone: + 351 936 308 185
Jah Shaka Surf - Jah Shaka Surf provides high quality and great value surf instruction for all levels in
Portugal. - Find on Surf Sleep Travel
Address: Estrada da Luz – Burgau, Montinhos de Luz 8600-119 | Phone:00351912773147
What To Bring: A shortboard and a solid step-up—the latter especially if you are coming in late
autumn or winter. A tow board and a jet ski if you plan to surf Nazare. A 3/2 wetsuit and booties
for autumn, and a 4/3 with a hood for winter. A pocketful of cash and your best dancing shoes. A
taste for sardines.
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Getting There: Lisbon Portela Airport is the main gateway into Portugal, with flights from all the
major European countries (and many off-continent countries as well). Visitors from most countries
do not require a visa to enter Portugal for 90 days or less. Airport code: LIS.
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Spain
Spain’s coverage in the media has been largely limited to its crown jewel Mundaka, but those who
have taken the time to explore this culturally rich corner of Europe know that the country is
holding much more than the world’s best river mouth. Spain’s various regions are as unique in their
waves as they are in their geography and culture, and many of them are quite uncrowded. For
those who can see beyond the Mundaka hype, Spain has a lot to offer. And for those who can’t—
well, one wave at the storied river mouth makes the trip worth it anyway.
The Surf: River mouths, beach breaks, points, reefs, even slabs—Spain has no shortage of waves,
and in general is an intermediate to advanced destination.
Mundaka: Everyone has seen the contest footage from Mundaka’s years on tour, so
everyone knows how good it gets, but what many don’t know is that this endless lefthand barrel
only works a few hours per day at low tide—and that's assuming there is swell in the water.
Bakio: A beach break neighboring Mundaka, Bakio is where you will surf when the worldclass river mouth you came for isn’t breaking—which will be most of the time.
Galicia: A region in northern Spain with a ton of waves but very little press, Galicia has
dozens of uncrowded points and beach breaks—and recent information has been leaked about a
number of powerful slabs as well.
Menakoz: Spain isn’t known as a big wave destination, but that may soon be changing.
Menakoz is one of many potentially XXL spots in Spain—a powerful righthander breaking similar to
Sunset Beach in Hawaii.
Rodiles: One of Spain’s most popular and populated spots, on its day, Rodiles has been
likened to a smaller, shorter Mundaka.
The Water: Average quality and moderate surface temps make Spain’s water somewhat run-ofthe-mill—although underdeveloped areas will be a bit cleaner, and northern regions such as
Galicia somewhat colder. Water temps in Mundaka range from 54 to 72 F (12 to 22 C), but the
wave won’t be breaking during the warmest months.
The Season: Fall (September through November) is prime time for Spain, with consistent swells
and good weather. Winter (December through February) can be massive, stormy and cold, but with
a good wetsuit, a big wave gun and some local knowledge, the season has a lot to offer. The
weather suffers in spring (March through May), but swells are still consistent, while summer (June
through August) is warm and sunny, but lacking in swell—although there will be more surf in Spain
during this “offseason” than anywhere else in Western Europe.
The Vibe: Big name spots like Mundaka and Rodiles are very crowded whenever they get good,
and the locals aren’t afraid to put you in your place. Elsewhere, you are as likely to surf alone as
not.
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Camino Surf| View Details |
Things To Do: Spain has a lot to offer in terms of culture and scenery, from the streets of
Barcelona to the hills of Andalusia and mountains of Galicia. For the spiritually minded, the trail to
Santiago de Compostela (also called the Way of St. James) is a famous pilgrimage route described
in Paolo Coelho’s book The Pilgrimage.
Surf Schools:
Lacunza IH Spanish+Surfing Camp – You’ll have 3 hours of Spanish classes in the morning and a 1-hour surf lesson
with a qualified instructor.
Address: Camino de Mundaiz 8, San Sebastian, Spain | Phone: +34 943 32 66 80
Where To Stay: If you are coming for Mundaka (as many are), you can stay in town, or just as
easily stay across the border in France. Other areas are less prepared for the tourist onslaught, but
hostels and hotels still abound.
Surf Camps:
Twin Fin Surfcamp. Find on Surf Sleep Travel Address: Hoya Grande, Tijoco Bajo
Escuela Cantabra De Surf Quiksilver Roxy - The 1st surf school in Europe, with over 20 years of
experience - Find on Surf Sleep Travel
Address: C/ Isla de Mouro Local 10 CP 39140 Playa de Somo, Cantabria | Phone: (+34) 609482823
Accommodation
Mundaka Surf Shop/School/Camp – Mundaka Surf Shop/School has been operating since 1985
offering surf classes to all aged beginners. - Find on Surf Sleep Travel
Address: Paseo Txorrokopunta 10 Bajo, Mundaka, Bizkaia 48360 | Phone: +34 656798056
SurfToLive House – Find on Surf Sleep Travel
Address: Calle Cayuso 33, 39140 Somo-Santander
What To Bring: A shortboard and a step-up. A 3mm wetsuit for fall and a 4/3 for winter. A taste
for wine and pastoral landscapes.
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Getting There: With any number of regional airports, ferries from the UK and a short 45-minute
drive from Biarritz to the France/Spain border, your options are pretty extensive. Madrid and
Barcelona are the main international gateways into the country. Under the Schengen Agreement,
citizens of many countries do not require an entry visa. Airport codes: MAD (Madrid) and BCN
(Barcelona).
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Region | United Kingdom
United Kingdom
Cornwall
The center of UK surfing for nearly five decades, Cornwall maintains its relevancy by merit of
consistent swells and relatively palatable weather and temperatures. Although Britain suffers from
a less-than-stellar reputation for surf, this is a legitimate surf scene with legitimate waves, well
worth a visit for both beginners and experts.
The Surf: With wide, sandy bays harboring plentiful sandbars and the occasional reef, Cornwall
ranges from a beginner to advanced surf destination (depending on the day and what break you
are surfing).
Porthleven: England’s best wave? Many seem to think so. If nothing else, this heavy reef
barrel (predominantly rights with occasional lefts) qualifies as one of the most competitive lineups
in the UK.
Newquay: A city in northern Cornwall, Newquay is the center of UK surfing, with numerous
quality breaks and a thriving surf scene.
Porthtowan: A heavy series of sandbars at the base of a cliff, Porthtowan is one of the better
beach break options in the UK.
Sennen: Located on the far western corner of Cornwall, this beach break setup receives
more swell than most breaks in the region.
Fistral Beach: If Newquay is the capital of British surfing, then Fistral is the House of
Parliament. Ground zero for wave riding in the UK since the ’60s, the beach breaks of Fistral are
some of the best in the country, and host the National Surfing Centre.
The Water: The UK has a reputation for cold, ugly water, and there is certainly some truth to this.
But although it may not be Caribbean blue, the water in Cornwall isn’t actually that polluted. It is
cold though, ranging from 48 to 63 F (9 to 17 C) seasonally.
The Season: Fall (September through November) is best, although winter and spring (December
through February and March through May respectively) can also deliver. Spring is particularly
noteworthy in Cornwall, as breaks that pick up southwest swells will be your best option for UK
surf during this season.
The Vibe: Newquay is crowded, and those crowds are starting to spread out and infest other
areas as well, but gnarly winters filled with angry storms and cold water tend to keep the vibes at a
minimal.
Things To Do: London is a classic tourist destination, with any number of cultural and
architectural highlights.
Where To Stay: Newquay is a great place to base yourself, with its central location and multitude
of quality waves.
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What To Bring: A shortboard and either a fish/hybrid or a longboard (for the days that are less
than stellar). Thick wetsuits, booties, gloves and a hood—particularly if you are coming in winter.
Patience and a tolerance for crappy weather. A stomach for British specialties (like bangers and
mash).
Getting There: Newquay has an international airport fielding frequent direct flights from London
(which is your main gateway into the country). You can also choose from a number of different
driving routes. Nationals of many countries do not require a visa. Airport codes: LHR (London
Heathrow) and NQY (Newquay).
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Devon
Although Cornwall may be the “capital” of surfing in the UK, northern neighbor Devon is definitely
holding as well. Centered around two distinct regions—Barnstable-Croyde in the north and
Plymouth-Torquay in the south—Devon has a number of popular waves, but also many secrets
with difficult access and far smaller crowds. For the prototypical English surfing experience minus
the hype of Cornwall’s Newquay, one could do a lot worse than Devon.
The Surf: Beach breaks, river mouths, points and reefs—Devon has a little of everything. You’ll
need patience to score, as conditions can be quite fickle, but those in the right place at the right
time enjoy waves as good as anywhere else in Europe. In general, this is a beginner to advanced
destination, depending on where and when you are surfing.
Bantham River Mouth: A classic righthand setup breaking in the mouth of the Avon River,
Bantham is close to Plymouth, making it one of the more accessible waves in the region.
Thurlestone: A righthand sandbar setup in Thurlestone, this wave is a good pressure release
valve from the crowds in Bantham.
Speke’s Mill: A left- and right-breaking reef peak in a beautiful setting in northern Devon,
Speke’s has been known for a while now and can be crowded at times.
Croyde: As you’d guess from the name, this user-friendly beach break setup is in Croyde,
which means easy access and lots of surfers.
Putsborough: Another beach break setup north of Croyde, Putsborough is protected from S
and SW wind, making it a good choice during stormy conditions.
The Water: Similar to Cornwall, the water in Devon is not as dirty as one would think—but it does
live up to its reputation for cold. Surface temps range from 48 to 63 F (9 to 17 C), with select areas
getting colder during winter.
The Season: Summer (May through August) can be pretty inconsistent, but enjoys relatively nice
weather, while winter (December through February) sees bigger swells and stormy conditions. As
with most northern hemisphere destinations, fall (September through November) is your best bet.
The Vibe: Popular waves around large cities will be crowded, and secret spots will be localized
(especially when they are pumping). But there are a lot of empty waves in the region, so don’t be
afraid to search.
Things To Do: London is a classic tourist destination, with any number of cultural and
architectural highlights.
Where To Stay: Your best bet will be to base yourself in the Barnstable-Croyde area (if you are
surfing the north) or Plymouth (if you are surfing the south).
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What To Bring: A shortboard and either a fish/hybrid or a longboard (for the days that are less
than stellar). Thick wetsuits, booties, gloves and a hood—particularly if you are coming in winter.
Patience and a tolerance for crappy weather. A peacoat and some galoshes.
Getting There: Exeter International Airport is the main gateway into Devon and is accessed by
frequent flights from London. You can also choose from a number of different driving routes.
Nationals of many countries do not require a visa. Airport codes: LHR (London Heathrow) and EXT
(Exeter).
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Region | Hawaii
Hawaii
Big Island
Hawaii’s Big Island—also simply known as “Hawaii”—has a reputation for being fickle and hard to
score, and this is a reputation the local surfers have worked hard to cultivate. The truth is that with
a bit of persistence and a solid 4x4, it is possible to unearth as many setups on the Big Island as
anywhere else in Hawaii—and often with a fraction of the crowd. Top-level surfers like Shane
Dorian, Torrey Meister and CJ Kanuha hail from this fabled outer island, and their aggregate skill
level is testament to the quality and diversity of the waves on offer.
The Surf: Like most of the other islands in the Hawaiian chain, the Big Island contains
predominantly reef-bottom setups, with many of the waves being quite shallow and heavy.
Although there are a handful of beginner spots on offer, for the most part this is an intermediate to
advanced destination.
Banyans: One of the more famous waves on the island, Banyans breaks both right and left
and is the setting for Shane Dorian’s annual Keiki Classic surf event.
Pine Trees: A fun righthand reef near Kona, this is another of the island’s most popular
spots.
Honolii: One of the most consistent (and crowded) spots on the island, Honolii is a river
mouth setup near Hilo.
Hapuna Bay: A sand-bottom wave with both lefts and rights, this spot is popular with kids
and beginners, but can be fun for the advanced surfer as well.
69s: A left and right reef break near Hapuna State Park, this rippable wave isn’t named after
a sexual position, but rather a nearby telephone pole.
The Water: The Big Island is just what its name suggests—big. This means that development is
pretty thin and spread out, resulting in a clean, idyllic warm-water experience. Surface
temperatures range from 75 to 81 F (24 to 27 C), so you’ll be in board shorts year round, although
a wetsuit top might come in handy in winter.
The Season: The Big Island has breaks facing all four cardinal directions, which means that there
is typically always somewhere to surf. The most consistent seasons are summer and winter, so for
north swells come between November and March, and for souths between May and August.
The Vibe: While the Big Island doesn’t have the reputation for violence and localism that some of
the other outer islands do, it is still a closely guarded secret. Respect the locals, don’t snake anyone
and if possible, come alone.
Things To Do: Mauna Kea is the highest point in Hawaii and the world’s tallest mountain (if you
measure from its base, which is miles below the surface of the ocean), while Mauna Loa is the
world’s largest active volcano. Both warrant a visit, as does neighboring active volcano Kilauea.
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Surf Schools:
Girls Who Surf – Open seven days a week for surf and stand up lessons or rentals and surf merchandise is available
for purchase at the Girls Who Surf retail shop in Honolulu.
Address: 1020 Auahi St, Building 4, Suite 4
Where To Stay: Tourist areas have a large selection of hotels (which can be a bit pricey). Out in
the country, you’ll be hard pressed to find hostels or other forms of budget accommodation, but
you may be able to pitch a tent if you buddy up with the locals—who will also be able to point you
in the direction of the island’s many secret spots.
What To Bring: A shortboard and a step-up. A 1mm wetsuit top for cool winter mornings. Hiking
boots and cool weather gear if you plan to visit high elevations, and a snowboard or skis if you
want to enjoy the novelty of surfing and riding on the same day (Mauna Kea has a seasonal snow
cap).
Getting There: Honolulu International Airport is the main gateway into the state of Hawaii, and
from there you will catch an interisland flight (typically on Hawaiian Airlines) to the Big Island’s
Kona or Hilo International Airports. (Both airports field flights from a handful of international
destinations, so depending on where you are coming from, it is possible to fly directly to the Big
Island.) American visa rules apply in Hawaii. Airport codes: HNL (Honolulu), KOA (Kona) and ITO
(Hilo).
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Region | Hawaii
Kauai
Also known as “The Garden Isle,” Kauai is beautiful, mellow and closely guarded—the kind of place
that would prefer not to have a surf guide written about it! While the North Shore of Oahu prints tshirts and poster boards in an effort to “Keep the Country Country,” Kauai actually IS country, and
the locals intend to keep it that way. A number of top Hawaiian pros have cut their teeth on the
island’s diverse waves (including Bruce and Andy Irons), but street cred has always been more
important than magazine spreads on Kauai, and the only way to gain street cred is through respect
and commitment. Far from the city lights of Waikiki and the concrete jungle of Honolulu, this is
Hawaii as it should be, so do your part to preserve the ambiance.
The Surf: Predominantly reef breaks with the occasional beach break thrown in, Kauai is an
intermediate to expert destination—the power of the winter surf is not to be taken lightly.
Hanalei Bay: Probably the best-known wave on Kauai, Hanalei Bay is a long righthand reef point with
occasional barrel sections. There are also a number of other waves in the bay, making this a popular surf zone.
Pine Trees: A sand-bottom river mouth tucked inside Hanalei Bay, Pine Trees is where many of the young
local rippers learn to surf, and has hosted the Irons Brothers Pine Trees Classic (a surf contest for kids) for over a
decade.
PK’s: Situated in front of a hotel, PK’s has a soft outside section and a hollow inside left.
Acid Drops: Another reef break in the Poipu zone, Acid Drops is a hollow right and left peak that takes a
south swell.
Secret Spots: There are many secrets on Kauai. Your best bet is to either explore (with sensitivity) or
befriend the locals.
The Water: Relatively undeveloped (when compared to Oahu), Kauai’s water is beautiful and
clean. Surface temps range from 75 to 81 F (24 to 27 C).
The Season: Kauai picks up both north and south swells. Winter (November through March) is
the big wave season on the north shore, while summer (May through August) sees smaller waves
on south facing beaches.
The Vibe: Much less crowded than Oahu, Kauai has a core crew of tight-lipped local riders who
know how to keep secrets and enforce lineup etiquette. The trade off is that the island houses
some of Hawaii’s best waves, offering a nice change of pace for those who are willing to bring
much respect and a laid back attitude. Tread lightly and come alone.
Things To Do: They don’t call it “The Garden Isle” for nothing. Kauai is lush, fertile and green, and
has numerous world-class hiking trails and vistas. Some of the best include the Alakai Swamp,
Waimea Canyon and the Na Pali coast.
Where To Stay: Kauai is set up for tourists, but that doesn’t mean that it is overrun with hotel
development. Poipu is a good place to base yourself during the summer months, while hotels
around Hanalei are convenient in the winter. Many of these hotels are high end, however, so shop
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around before committing.
What To Bring: A standard shortboard, and a step-up or minigun if you are coming in winter. A
1mm wetsuit top for windy winter days. Hiking shoes and an appreciation for natural beauty. Lots
of respect for the locals.
from there you will catch an interisland flight (typically on Hawaiian Airlines) to Kauai’s Lihue
Airport. American visa rules apply in Hawaii. Airport codes: HNL (Honolulu) and LIH (Lihue).
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Region | Hawaii
Maui
Named for the mythological demi-god who fished the Hawaiian Islands out of the ocean with a
magic hook, Maui is an island rife with mystery and legend. A veritable hotbed for hippie
communes in the late ’60s and ’70s, the island has always had a taste for the transcendental—just
ask anyone who has locked into a life-changing freight train barrel at Ma’alaea, witnessed the
country perfection of Honolua Bay or taken a Peahi bomb on the head. Despite its popularity with
the tourists, Maui wears its “outer island” status with pride. But if Innersection winners and XXL
awards are any indication, the Valley Isle might just be the center of progressive surfing’s next
chapter.
The Surf: Although best known for 50-foot heroics and unmakeably fast righthand barrels, Maui
does have tamer waves on offer as well. Nonetheless, the island is by and large an intermediate to
expert surf zone.
Honolua Bay: The granddaddy of all tropical reef points, Honolua was considered the perfect
wave in the early ’70s, and anyone who has been lucky enough to score an empty bowl at this
righthand anomaly will tell you the dream is still alive and well more than 40 years later.
Ma’alaea: The world’s fastest right, or its most glorified closeout? It depends on the day, but
when this wave is on, there are few that can compare. Every long, fast, down-the-line barrel in
existence owes its descriptor to this original “Freight Train” reef.
Peahi (Jaws): Although this wave is beyond the skillset (and desire) of most surfers, it is one
of the most watchable big wave arenas in existence, so post up on the cliff and bear witness to the
world’s best watermen doing their thing.
Ho’okipa: A righthand reef point that suffers from strong, consistent sideshore winds—
making it one of the most popular kite and windsurf waves in existence.
Lahaina Harbor: A user-friendly left reef, this wave is centrally located in Lahaina town and is
popular with the kids and weekend warrior crew.
The Water: A bit dirty in Lahaina and other developed areas, but that is to be expected.
Everywhere else is the typical Hawaiian-blue water we have come to expect. Surface temperatures
range from 75 to 81 F (24 to 27 C).
The Season: Maui has epic waves on both sides of the island. For Jaws and Honolua, north swells
come between November and March. For Ma’alaea and Lahaina Harbor, you’ll be looking for
summer south swells between May and August.
The Vibe: Like all Hawaiian outer islands, Maui enjoys the fact that it is relatively obscure and
unknown. Give the locals respect, keep your head in and don’t bring a crowd.
Things To Do: Haleakala Crater is an incredible experience, containing a harsh moonscape dotted
with the striking plant species exclusive to the region, such as the endangered Silversword.
Another nice outing is a day trip to beautiful Hana.
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Where To Stay: Maui is a popular tourist destination and has many high-end hotels and other
accommodations. There is also a big backpacker scene, dating back to the island’s early hippie
days, so your options range from five-star hotels to a tent in a commune.
What To Bring: A shortboard and a step-up. A big-wave gun if you are coming for Jaws and a
kiteboard or windsurfer if you are heading to Ho’okipa. Hiking shoes for a Haleakala walk. Your
favorite hash pipe and tie-dye shirt.
from there you will catch an interisland flight (typically on Hawaiian Airlines) to Maui’s Kahului
Airport. (Maui also receives direct flights from a handful of cities on the US mainland.) American
visa rules apply in Hawaii. Airport codes: HNL (Honolulu) and OGG (Kahului).
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Region | Hawaii
North Shore
The Proving Grounds. The Seven-Mile Miracle. The Country. The Mecca of Surfing. The North
Shore. Whatever you call it, the stretch of coastline extending from Haleiwa to Turtle Bay is quite
literally the epicenter of heavy-water performance surfing—and professional surfing in general—if
not all year, then for at least six weeks every winter. Pioneered in the early ’40s and overrun by the
time Beatlemania hit its fevered pitch, Oahu’s North Shore has played host to more surf-related
history than any other locale on the planet, and after more than 60 years still remains the
benchmark against which all other surf zones are judged.
From Butch Van Artsdalen’s groundbreaking Pipe session to the soul arches of Gerry Lopez; from
the Triple Crown dominance of Sunny Garcia to the complete mastery of Kelly Slater; and from the
aloha of Eddie Aikau to the brutal reputations of Da Hui and the Wolfpack—if its noteworthy and
its surfing, chances are good that it happened here. Today, the North Shore sees tens of thousands
of surf tourists flock to its beaches every season and hosts the final event of the annual WT pro
tour. But crowded lineups, contest waiting periods and over-priced real estate notwithstanding,
these are the waves that we grew up dreaming about, and they keep us coming back, year after
year.
The Surf: Breaking powerfully, and predominantly over sharp, shallow reef, the waves on the
North Shore are typically for intermediate to expert surfers.
Chun’s Reef: The region’s token longboarding spot, the right at Chun’s is one of the only
“soft” waves in the area.
Laniakea: A high performance righthand reef point, Lani’s can fire from chest high to triple
overhead.
Sunset: The original North Shore gem, Sunset’s deep water peaks and mutant inside bowl
have been overshadowed by the Pipe freakshow in the past few decades. Nonetheless, Sunset
remains one of the most difficult (and rewarding) heavy-water waves in the world.
Waimea Bay: Although other big wave spots like Mavericks and Jaws are now considered to
be heavier and bigger, Waimea is the granddaddy of big wave surfing, and when the right swell is in
the water its righthand peak is as relevant as ever.
Pipeline/Backdoor: The most famous wave in the world, and for good reason. Pipe is the
barrel against which all others are judged, and Backdoor, although less perfect and prone to closing
out, is an epic barrel in its own right.
The Water: Hawaii is the original tropical paradise, and it isn’t hard to see why. White sand
beaches give wave to clean, crystal-clear water that averages a balmy 75 F (24 C) during the winter
season, making boardshorts and a 2mm wetsuit top sufficient for most sessions.
The Season: North swells arrive in late October, as do the pro circus and thousands of frothing
tourists. Try the late season—February through April—for less crowded lineups and no shortage of
swell.
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The Vibe: Hawaii is notorious for localism, and the North Shore is no exception. With crowd
pressure at popular spots bringing tensions to a breaking point, semi-secret “local” waves are
closely guarded and often off-limits to visitors. If you have skills and respect, you’ll get waves. If
not, you’ll get pounded (either by the ocean or a jiu jitsu-practicing moke).
Things To Do: The circus is in town for six weeks starting mid-November, with the Triple Crown
and WT pro tour both culminating at the Pipeline Masters in early December. In addition, the bigwave contest at Waimea Bay has a holding period from December through February, so if carnage
and conquest are your cup of tea, look no further. If you are looking for a nightlife, parties dripping
with surf celebrity and beautiful people abound, although they can be as hard to access as a set
wave at Pipe.
Where To Stay: The major surf brands have bought up a fair share of the beachfront real estate
and now run a series of “team houses,” but for the everyman surfer, accommodation options range
from five-star hotels to dirt-bag hostels—and latecomers can always pitch a tent in the bushes.
What To Bring: First and foremost, a step-up board and a big-wave gun—and the skills to use
them. Extra leashes, warm water wax, quality sunscreen and a wetsuit top should suffice in the
surf, while boardshorts and t-shirts will keep you covered on land (although a warm jacket may
come in handy on cool evenings). Pack a book and hiking shoes for downtime between swells and,
most importantly, bring an endless supply of patience and a humble attitude.
Getting There: Honolulu International Airport is a major hub, and can be accessed from just
about anywhere. Hawaii has the same visa requirements as the rest of the US, so you shouldn’t run
into any surprises. Airport code: HNL.
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Region | Hawaii
South Shore
Although Oahu’s North Shore is a somewhat modern-day phenomenon, surfing in Hawaii began
thousands of years before “Da Country” was pioneered. Debates rage as to where the first
intentional wave ride actually occurred, but the South Shore of Oahu has always been surfing’s
spiritual home and is generally acknowledged as the birthplace of the act. Possessing a storied
history, it is where “the sport of kings” was perfected, then lost, then re-discovered and exported
to the masses via the generosity and aloha of Duke Kahanamoku—Olympic swimming champion,
respected waterman and father of modern surfing.
Today, Oahu’s South Shore encompasses the full breadth of the surfing experience. From the
gentle rollers at Waikiki to the heaving barrels of Ala Moana Bowls, this region has something for
everyone—which is why everyone and their mother seems to be here! The crowds can be a bit
overbearing, particularly on weekends and at the more popular breaks, but this is still Hawaii—the
original tropical paradise—and with picture-perfect waves breaking in warm water a short walk
from the shopping, hotels and nightlife of “Town,” it’s hard to go wrong.
The Surf: Like those of the nearby North Shore, the waves here break over relatively shallow,
sharp coral reef. This is where the comparison ends, however. With a south facing swell window,
“Town” only picks up summer swells, which typically possess a fraction of the size and power of
those pummeling the North Shore during winter. In general, this is a beginner to intermediate surf
zone.
Bowls: The South Shore’s best wave, Bowls is a rippable left at chest high and a draining
double-up barrel once it gets into the solid overhead range.
Big Rights: A rippable right peak in the Ala Moana Beach Park area, Big Rights can handle a
bit of size and produces the occasional barrel.
Kewalos: A left breaking into a rare “reef pass,” Kewalos is a high performance wave popular
with the up-and-coming grom crew.
Canoes: The original Hawaiian surf spot, Canoes is a soft, rolling longboard spot in the heart
of Waikiki.
Sandy’s: An infamous shorebreak popular with the bodyboarding and bodysurfing crew,
Sandy’s breaks more necks than nearly any other spot in the world.
The Water: With Hawaii’s water being slightly warmer in the summer than in the winter, trips to
the South Shore will require little more than a sturdy pair of boardshorts and some quality
sunscreen. Surface temps should hover around 80 degrees F (27 C) the entire season.
The Season: Although summer in Hawaii can be hit or miss, south and southwest swells typically
start rolling through sometime around the first of May and last until mid to late September.
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Region | Hawaii
The Vibe: The most crowded and localized spots can be a bit intimidating, and pretty much
anywhere in “Town” can be ridiculously crowded, but this is the Aloha State, so if you come with a
friendly, generous attitude, expect the same in return.
Things To Do: This is Waikiki we’re talking about—tourist heaven and party-central. If you can’t
find something to do, you are probably comatose. Clubs and restaurants abound, as do concerts at
the Waikiki Shell and other venues. To escape the bedlam, try sneaking away to nearby waterfalls,
or go hike Diamond Head for some dry-land exercise. For WWII history, you can’t beat Pearl
Harbor.
Where To Stay: Hotels, motels, hostels and hovels abound. Choose your price-range, then get
online and start shopping.
What To Bring: A longboard for Waikiki, something short and stubby for the other waves in the
region and a step-up if the forecast looks promising and you feel like battling for bombs at Bowls.
(Local Tip: There is a surf shop on nearly every corner here, and Oahu has the best selection of
used boards in the world—try craigslist!—so to beat airline baggage fees, consider buying a board
locally.) Leashes, wax and other accessories are all readily available, so you won’t need to pack
much. Hawaii isn’t cheap, however, so bring lots of cash.
Getting There: Honolulu International Airport is a major hub, and can be accessed from just
about anywhere. Hawaii has the same visa requirements as the rest of the US, so you shouldn’t run
into any surprises. Airport code: HNL.
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Region | Indian Sub Continent
Indian Sub Continent
Andaman Islands
India’s original discovery, the Andamans burst onto the scene via Jack Johnson and Chris Malloy’s
video opus Thicker Than Water, which featured the first known surf trip into the area after decades
of government restrictions were finally lifted. Most of the Andaman Islands still require a yacht for
easy access, but Little Andaman has a fledgling land-based surf scene and makes for a convenient
little side trip, as well as a well-needed reprieve from the chaos of mainland India.
The Surf: The Andamans are tropical islands in the Bay of Bengal, and most waves break over
shallow, sharp reef. With both high performance and barreling waves, this region is suitable for
intermediate to advanced surfers.
Kumari Point: The original Andaman discovery, Kumari Point is a long, fast righthand barrel
over reef in an isolated location on Little Andaman. Check out the boat trip segment of Thicker
Than Water to get your froth factor up.
Muddys: A long, rippable, punchy lefthand reef break first surfed by the Thicker Than Water
crew in 1998.
Jarawa Point: Another wave pioneered by the Thicker Than Water crew, Jarawa Point is a
rippable lefthander with limited land access on Little Andaman.
Jackson Creek: Another lefthand reef break on Little Andaman.
Explore: The Andaman and Nicobar islands are still largely protected by the Indian
government, and for the most part unexplored. With a charter boat and a bit of patience, one
could discover all kinds of waves in this area.
The Water: Whereas mainland India has some of the worst water quality in existence, the
Andamans are extremely isolated and undeveloped, and enjoy the crystalline water that has come
to be expected in a tropical island paradise. Water temps hover in the low 80s F (upper 20s C) year
round.
The Season: South swells start to pump around March, but the monsoon brings constant
onshore winds near the end of May, which means you only have a two- to three-month window for
quality waves in the Andamans.
The Vibe: A few surfers make their way to Little Andaman each year, and there are rumors of a
surf camp in the area, but crowds are never a factor. On any of the other islands, you’ll be the only
surfer.
Things To Do: Not much to do in the Andamans besides surf, dive and fish. But mainland India is
a short plane ride away from Port Blair and contains one of the world’s most vibrant cultures. India
is a must-see for any hardcore traveler, so plan your cultural excursions for the mainland and your
surfing for the islands.
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Where To Stay: Check out the Little Andaman surf camp, which may or may not be open for
business at any given time. Hut Bay on Little Andaman has sparse accommodations available. For
any of the other islands, you’ll need to charter a yacht.
What To Bring: A shortboard and a step-up. Any surf accessories you can imagine needing, as
there is nothing available in India. An open itinerary—India has a lot to offer and can’t be seen in a
week. Sun and reef protection. Antibiotics with antiparasitics for GI tract infections. A copy of
Thicker Than Water, one of the best surf films ever made and the only one to feature Andaman
waves.
Getting There: Chennai and Calcutta are your best options for entry into India, as both have
weekly flights into Port Blair. You can also take a boat from either of these cities, but this involves a
multi-day ride and conditions are said to be horrendous. Once in Port Blair, you will need to
arrange transport to Little Andaman. If you hope to explore the lesser-known islands, your best bet
is to charter a yacht in Thailand and make the crossing from that side. Indian visas must be
arranged ahead of time. Airport codes: MAA (Chennai), CCU (Calcutta) and IXZ (Port Blair).
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India
When considering various destinations for an upcoming surf trip, India is rarely at the top of the
list. Lacking consistent swell, conveniently shaped reefs and coastal access, the country isn’t exactly
Indo—but then again, maybe that’s the point. As far as cultural “otherness” goes, the colors,
sounds and tastes of India can’t be beat. And the reality is that there are waves there—even good
waves, if one knows where to look. The country demands patience and an adventurous spirit, but
it gets under your skin, so don’t be surprised if your first trip isn’t your last.
The Surf: The known spots are predominantly soft beach breaks, but with thousands of miles of
coast the potential is there for a little of everything. Check the east coast for righthand points and
the island groups off either coast for lesser-known tropical reef barrels.
Shore Temple, Mahiblipuram: One of the first spots in the country to develop a “surf scene,”
Mahibs is a righthand sand point breaking off of the famed Shore Temple—one of the most scenic
aquatic backdrops in the world. With a handful of local surfers and a beach resort feel, the town is
a great place to ease into the culture, and boards are available for rent.
Kovalam: Project site of one of the few semi-successful artificial reefs that have been put in
around the world over the past decade, Kovalam is another resort town on the southern tip of the
country with consistent beach break peaks.
Soul&Surf Retreat, Kerala: A small yoga/surf retreat, the Soul&Surf house is centrally located
in Kerala, with access to dozens of beach break and point setups in one of India’s most beautiful
states.
Rasta’s: A righthand reef barrel on an undisclosed island off the Indian coast, this wave was
revealed in the film Castles in the Sky, with Dave Rastovich doing the honors. Pull out Google Earth,
do some searching and you might just stumble upon India’s best wave. Or, if you’d rather let
someone else do the work, book an exclusive “tour” with the “surfing swamis” that run
www.surfingindia.net.
Andamans: The Andaman Islands have been on the surf world’s radar since Jack Johnson
and Chris Malloy released their opus Thicker Than Water, but access is still an issue. Most spots in
the islands require a yacht, but check out Little Andaman for quality land-based setups.
The Water: Filthy. There is one toilet for every 17,000 people in India, and coastal peoples use
the high tide line as their restroom. While lineups may be empty of people, they are surely
teeming with bacteria. Still, on the right day, under the right conditions, watching perfect, empty
waves peel by unridden has been known to motivate visiting surfers to overlook the hepatitis risk.
(*Note that water quality in the nearby islands is much better than on the mainland.) As far as
water temps go, expect 84 F (29 C) year round.
The Season: South swells are most consistent between April and September, but the monsoon
typically hits in late May, meaning heavy rains and possibly adverse winds, depending on where
you are surfing. (Monsoon typically blows from west to east, so plan accordingly.)
The Vibe: At last count there were 12 local wave riders in India—total—and virtually no traveling
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surfers. The only vibe in the water will be the one that you bring.
Things To Do: With such a vibrant, colorful culture, India should never be a surf-only trip. Bring a
board along, but allow surfing to be a secondary consideration and open yourself up to one of the
world’s few major cultures that thrives independent of the influence of the West. From the
Himalaya in the north and the sordid streets of Calcutta to the grandeur of the Taj Mahal and
tranquility of the various ghats along the Ganges, India has more to offer than you’ll ever be able
to see in one trip—which is why many people return time after time, and some stay permanently.
If you are basing yourself in the south in order to maximize water time, make sure to visit the
Kerala backwaters (three-day houseboat tours are available), spend a day or two in the Frenchinfluenced city of Pondicherry and find your inner Zen through a yoga or meditation course at one
of the dozens of ashrams spread throughout the region.
Where To Stay: Resort areas and towns that are squarely on the backpacker path will have a
plethora of hostels at affordable prices, but in towns not frequented by tourists you’ll have to find
local hotels (which can also be quite cheap, but are often dirty and less foreigner-friendly [ie. no
sit-down toilets]).
Accommodation
Varkala Beach, Kerala - Homestay - Private double rooms with sit-outs, ensuite bathrooms and is
2 minutes walk from Papanasam Beach - Find on Surf Sleep Travel
Address: Temple Road, Janardhanapuram, Varkala, Kerala | Phone: +919745775420
What To Bring: A shortboard or hybrid fish with a lot of volume, unless you are looking for small
point breaks (in this case bring a log) or going to one of the island groups (standard
shortboard/step-up for hollow waves). Bring your own accessories, as you will find nothing surfrelated in the country. Cold weather gear is essential if you plan to go north to the mountains.
Women would do well to bring a pair of knee-length shorts, as the local culture frowns on
immodesty. Also, bring along a taste for the exotic (and sometimes spicy!)—the local culinary arts
are an experience in and of themselves. Finally, bring a course of the antibiotic Cipro, as a GI tract
infection is pretty much guaranteed.
Getting There: If you are coming to surf, you will probably fly into Chennai (formerly known as
Madras) or Trivandrum. Both airports also have flights to Colombo, Sri Lanka, making them
convenient for a two-destination trip. Visas should be arranged before arrival, and it’s worth
spending the extra $40 (give or take, depending on your country of origin) to get a 10-year visa,
just in case you catch the India bug and want to return. Airport code: MAA (Chennai) and TRV
(Trivandrum).
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Maldives
Classic Maldives setup. Photo thanks to Chaaya Island Dhonveli. Find out more about staying here.
When Tony Hussein Hinde shipwrecked in the Maldives in 1973 on his way to Reunion Island, he
would never have guessed what the succeeding 40 years would bring. After keeping the local surf a
secret for 15 years, he saw the writing on the wall in the mid-eighties with the massive
proliferation of surf camps worldwide and opened Atoll Adventures, the first of many surf tour
operations in the area.
Since that time, the Maldives has become one of the world’s most popular high-end surf
destinations, with five-star resorts and live-aboard yachts fronting excellent reef pass and point
surf. But the party may soon be coming to an end. With ocean levels rising, it is thought that the
Maldives could be inundated by 2040, and all of its excellent waves buried beneath meters of
encroaching water. If you have ever dreamt of visiting the Maldives or surfing its storied waves,
now is the time to go!
The Surf: Predominantly intermediate-level reef points ranging from long rippable walls to
grinding barrels.
Pasta Point: Not only is this one of the world’s most rippable lefthand reef points, but it is
also steeped in history, as Hussein Hinde set up his original surf school here. Unfortunately, the
originator of Maldivian surf passed away here in 2008 as well.
Sultans: A rippable, barreling righthand reef break that can handle size, Sultans is one of the
best waves in the region and is the closest thing the Maldives has to a big-wave spot.
Honky’s: Who wouldn’t want to surf a spot called Honky’s—especially when it's a perfect left
reef? Situated on the same stretch of reef as Sultans, Honky’s benefits from a massive amount of
refraction, growing as it peels down the line and wrapping nearly 90 degrees.
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Chickens: One of the heavier and more popular waves in the region, Chickens is a bowly
lefthander barreling in front of an island that used to house a chicken farm—hence the name. For
those who are good enough, it is sometimes possible to connect all six sections, and there are
legends floating around of 15-second+ barrels.
Lohi’s: Another long, perfect user-friendly left that lends itself to high performance surfing.
The Water: Thanks to regulation of development and tourism, the water here is about as clean as
it gets. With water temps ranging from 80 to 84F (27 to 29C) year round, this is basically a
waterman’s paradise.
The Season: April to June is the best time for surf in the Maldives, as southern hemi swell
corresponds with light winds. The monsoon typically brings stronger winds late in the season,
making July to October more consistent but more wind-affected. November through March is the
offseason.
The Vibe: The locals have a reputation for being friendly and welcoming, although the same may
not be true of the surf camp owners. Camps and tours abound in the region, and there has been a
long history of fighting over waves and exclusive access rights. The latest chapter in this ugly saga
involves the proposed privatization of half a dozen of the top breaks in the region by 2014.
Maldives Sunny Isles| View Details
Chaaya Island Dhonveli | View Details
Variety Stay Guesthouse| View Details
Things To Do: The Maldives are a series of small sandy atolls, so aside from surfing, paddling,
fishing and lounging on the beach there isn’t much going on—but why would you need anything
else?
Where To Stay: Budget accommodation doesn’t really exist here, so you’ll basically be choosing
between a land camp and a live-aboard tour. Staying on a boat means access to more waves, but
some camps' boast exclusive access to nearby waves (i.e., Dhonveli land camp has exclusive access
to Pasta Point), so where you stay will largely depend on what waves you want to surf.
Hope Cruiser Surfing – Hope Cruiser is one of the Finest surfing safari in Maldives.
Address: Male, Maldives | Phone: +960 7775686
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What To Bring: As far as boards go, a standard shortboard and a step-up will pretty much cover
you in the Maldives, although a mini-gun might come in handy if you are chasing a swell or the
forecast looks solid. Otherwise, most travel in the region involves fully inclusive packages, so
besides a book and some sun tan lotion (and wax and leashes) you won’t need much.
Getting There: Situated off the west coast of India, the Maldives are about as far from home as
you can get (unless you are from South East Asia or the Middle East). Flights are into Male
International Airport, and Singapore or Sri Lankan Airlines are usually your best bet. 30 day tourist
visas are available upon arrival. Airport code: MLE.
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Sri Lanka
Also known as Ceylon, Sri Lanka is one of surfing’s original island getaways, and 30 years after its
discovery still retains its mystique and charm. It has everything a wandering surfer could want—
good food, warm water, a welcoming culture and quality, user-friendly waves—so it’s no wonder
that so many have come for a visit and ended up staying for decades. Arugam Bay is the center of
the surf scene on the east coast, but there are dozens of other quality setups within 50km—all you
need is a tuktuk and a nose for exploration.
The Surf: The waves aren’t huge and are rarely top to bottom, but what they lack in power they
make up for in perfection. For the most part you are looking at a series of righthand, sand-bottom
points—dozens of them—so for the regular-footed log rider, style master or small wave guru, this
is about as close to utopia as it gets.
Arugam Bay: The most famous wave in the region and most likely your base during your stay, A-Bay breaks
initially over a rock reef and then peels along a sand point for up to 200 yards, providing rippable walls and the
occasional barrel section when there is size. As nearly all visiting surfers stay in Arugam Bay, this is always the most
crowded wave—but it is also the most consistent.
Pottuvil Point: Another righthand point about 15 minutes out of Arugam, this wave peels right along shore
and can be a noserider’s dream when the sand is right—although the locals say it hasn’t been the same since the
last tsunami.
Whiskey Point: Just south of Pottuvil Point, Whiskeys picks up more swell but is quite a bit softer and ends
in a closeout shorebreak. Still, it's a good option when A-Bay is too crowded and Pottuvil too small.
Peanut Farm: Yet another perfect righthand sand point that breaks initially off of a picturesque pile of
rocks. There are small huts built for accommodation here, but no one ever stays—probably because of the
poisonous snakes, leopards and feral elephants living in the area.
Greenroom: A mysto wave with a cryptic name that supposedly resembles perfect Kirra when Sri Lanka
cops a large south swell, Greenroom might just offer the best barrels on the island—if it actually exists.
The Water: Crystal clear (in undeveloped regions) and bathtub warm, this is the water you dream
of surfing in. The water in A-Bay can be a bit dirty after a rainstorm, but with water temps ranging
from 75 to 82 F (24 to 28 C), the only cold you’ll ever feel is from your icy beer after another
satisfying session.
The Season: On the east coast, the monsoon actually helps by bringing offshore winds, so the
later season actually tends to be best. Swells start filling in around April/May, but for bigger, more
consistent swells and better sandbars, try July and August.
The Vibe: The local surfers are starting to rip and a few of them have attitudes, but for the most
part they are mellow and welcoming. Arugam Bay gets very busy mid-season, mostly with tourists
from Europe and Israel, but all of the nearby waves are typically empty or at the most sparsely
populated, so if you are willing to drive for waves, you’ll get them to yourself. As far as the civil war
goes, it has been officially over for a few years now, but reports are starting to filter out about
gross social injustices such as killing fields and massive populations of displaced people. The unrest
doesn’t really affect tourists and is typically hidden from sight, but if you are sensitive to the plight
of others, digging too deep may leave you a bit disturbed.
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Things To Do: Outside of the water, Arugam has an active social scene, with bars, clubs and
restaurants right on the beach. The food in particular is amazing, and usually very cheap. For
something a bit more organic, Lahugala National Park is a short drive away, with wild elephants
feeding right next to the road. Other wildlife in the region include crocodiles, leopards, sloth bears
and a wide variety of endemic birds, so tap your inner naturalist and spend some time in the
jungle.
Where To Stay: Your best bet is to base in Arugam Bay, where accommodation is widely available
and very affordable. Nearly all of the quality waves in the region are a short 30- to 60-minute drive
from here, so unless you really want to get away from the crowds, there is no reason to stay
anywhere else.
What To Bring: A log, a fish and a high performance shortboard. Tropical wax and sun protection.
A guidebook on the local flora and fauna. You favorite beer coozy.
Getting There: Although you can take a taxi from Colombo to Arugam Bay, to really experience
Sri Lanka, take the train from Colombo to Ella, a beautiful hill station that warrants a few days of
your time in and of itself. A bus from Ella to Pottuvil is cheap and relatively quick, and from Pottuvil
you can catch a tuktuk into Arugam. Flights into Colombo are available from Singapore, but you can
also fly in from Chennai (India) or Male (Maldives). Consider doing a combo trip if you have the
time, money and interest. Tourist visas available upon arrival. Airport code: CMB.
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Region | Indonesia
Indonesia
Bukit Peninsula
The Bukit Peninsula going XXL. Photo thanks to Puri Uluwatu Villas. Find out more about staying here.
From a surfer’s perspective, the world is divided into two distinct regions—one that picks up
northern hemi energy, and the other south. The southern hemisphere winter produces southerly
swells for any number of coastlines on a variety of continents, but the undisputed epicenter of
surfing in this “bottom half” of the planet is undoubtedly the stretch of reef lining the Bukit
Peninsula on Bali. The original Indonesian discovery (which in subsequent years would lead us to
the wonders of Java [G-land], Sumatra [Lagundri Bay] and the Mentawais), Bali was placed squarely
in the public eye in the early ’70s by the film Morning of the Earth. The first of what would soon
become a seemingly endless list of perfect, tropical reef lefts, Uluwatu was the star of Albert
Falzon’s seminal work, and surfers came in droves, quickly turning Bali into the “Australian Hawaii.”
Today, Bali is ground zero for professional surfing and surf-related tourism between the months of
May and September, featuring team houses, international film shoots, massive surf brand
boutiques and the debauchery of Kuta Beach. In many ways it is a changed Bali, one that only
slightly resembles the quiet, idyllic Hindu island of days past, but as development continues to
mushroom at an almost unbelievable rate and new resorts spring up virtually overnight, the waves
of the Bukit Peninsula remain the same, pumping out perfection with an almost clock-work
consistency, bathing Bali’s reefs in the blue symmetry that started all this madness four decades
ago.
The Surf: This is the land of flawless lefthand reefs, where consistent Indian Ocean swell meets
perfectly formed coral growth. The waves are shallow and consequential, making Bali an
intermediate to advanced surf destination.
Uluwatu: The original Indonesian dream, this long lefthand reef point is as good today as it
was 40 years ago.
Padang Padang: Many people consider this shallow, hollow left barrel to be Bali’s best wave.
Bingin: A short, hollow lefthand tube, Bingin can be very shallow at low tide.
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Region | Indonesia
Dreamland: Dreamland is a popular, hollow lefthander similar to Bingin.
Impossibles: Living up to its name, Impossibles is a long, hollow, impossibly fast lefthand
reefbreak.
The Water: Development is always accompanied by pollution, and this is no less true in Bali. But
it takes a lot to ruin utopia, and the water is still cleaner and clearer than pretty much anywhere
else in the world. And with water and air temps hovering around 82 F (28 C) year round, you are
more likely to suffer heatstroke than hypothermia.
The Season: The Bukit Peninsula pumps pretty much non-stop from May through September.
The Vibe: As the old saying goes, “Call it paradise and kiss it goodbye.” Bali definitely suffers from
its reputation, and is one of, if not the most crowded destination on the planet. Luckily, the
Balinese seem to take this with a grain of salt, and the aggro attitudes of the visiting hordes are
usually (and ironically) offset by the welcoming smiles of the uber-talented local surfers. And while
everyone knows that you don’t come to Bali to surf by yourself, one perfect thigh-burner at
Impossibles can make the crowd worthwhile.
Kima Surfaris – Surf Camp Balangan|
Kima Surfaris – Surf Camp Canggu|
View Details
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Kima Surfaris – Surf Camp Seminyak
Voyager Boutique Creative Retreat|
DREAMWEAVER SURF CHARTERS AND
TOURS| View Details
Stormrider Surfcamp Bali
View Details
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Things To Do: Kuta Beach is the center of nightlife on Bali, if not all of Oceania, and if nightclubs,
debauchery and arak-induced hangovers are your thing, you will find no shortage of entertainment
here. If you are looking for something a bit mellower and more exotic, Ubud is the island’s cultural
center, presenting the best in Balinese fine arts, dance and music.
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Region | Indonesia
Surf Schools:
Pro Surf School – Pro Surf School offers comprehensive semi-private and private surfing lessons for beginners,
intermediate and advanced surfers, as well as surf trips around Bali. Address: Jalan Pantai Kuta, Kuta, Kabupaten de Badung| Phone: +62 811 392 0503
Where To Stay: Five-star resorts are popping up on the beaches and cliffs fronting all of Bali’s
favorite waves, and high-end villa rentals (complete with tennis clubs and gyms, cars and drivers,
kitchen staff, butlers and in-house massage) abound. For the bargain hunter, the backstreets of
Kuta Beach house accommodations to match every budget.
Accommodation
Puri Uluwatu Villas – We are a family run resort directly in front of Uluwatu beach with private
staircase walking access. - Find on Surf Sleep Travel
Address: Uluwatu, Indonesia Uluwatu
Mango Surf Lodge Bali - The lodge consists of three 2-bedroom cottages surrounded by tropical
gardens and a large pool and parking area. - Find on Surf Sleep Travel
Address: Ungasan, Pura Masuka
Shaka Surf Charters - Shaka Surf Charters is a newly renovated & redesigned 27-meter yacht that
is now available for surf charters. - Find on Surf Sleep Travel
Address: Jalan Dewi Sri, Kuta 80361, Indonesia | Phone: +82 81 999 120 357
What To Bring: Depending on the waves you intend to surf, your quiver can include anything
from a fish to a mini-gun. Bring tropical wax, sun protection, booties if you are afraid of coral reef,
limes to clean out wounds if you aren’t and your fancy flip-flops for a night out on the town. This is
the quintessential idyllic island surf holiday, so pack accordingly.
Getting There: Bali loves tourism, and 30-day visas are handed out like candy ($25USD). As far as
travel goes, depending on where you live, Bali is either extremely close and easy to access, or
extremely not. Ticket prices drop drastically in the rainy season, when the beach breaks and reefs
on the east coast pump…but that is another story altogether. Airport code: DPS.
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Region | Indonesia
Offseason Bali
While the classic Bali surf trip has always featured Bukit staples like Uluwatu and Padang Padang,
the secret is out on the island’s wet season potential, and many surfers are beginning to consider
Bali a legitimate year round surf destination. Adverse winds shut down the waves of the Bukit
Peninsula between November and March, but the east coast of Bali enjoys offshore winds and
consistent waves throughout the wet season—with only a fraction of the crowding. For those who
want to experience Bali’s culture and waves and are willing to do so without the benefit of the
Bukit Peninsula, offseason is the new on.
The Surf: Predominantly reef breaks, with a few river mouths thrown in. The waves of Bali’s east
coast can pack as much punch as those on the Bukit Peninsula, so this region should be considered
an intermediate to advanced surfing destination.
Keramas: A peaky, sandy reef that is becoming increasingly popular with freesurfing pros,
Keramas can offer up dredging righthand barrels but is also an aerialist’s dream.
Sanur (Tandjung): A righthand reef barrel in the town of the same name, this wave can get
crowded but is one of the better rights on Bali. It also has a short left off the back of the peak.
Nusa Dua: Another righthand barrel that fires during Bali’s wet season, Nusa Dua is located
on Bali’s east coast.
Serangan: A user-friendly reef peak on Bali’s east coast.
Hyatt Reef: Another wave in the Sanur region, this offshore reef fronts the Grand Hyatt hotel
and can offer excellent righthanders.
The Water: Due to the fact that you’ll be visiting in the wet season, heavy rains can affect the
water quality to an extent. However, this is still Bali, so if you come expecting a tropical dream, you
won’t be disappointed. Water temps hover around 82 F (28 C) all year.
The Season: The rain and westerly winds start sometime between October and November and
typically blow until the end of March. This means offshore conditions on Bali’s east coast—which
sees no shortage of swell during the supposed “offseason.”
The Vibe: Although Bali has a thriving surf culture and a booming population of wave riders, the
vibe is much more mellow during the wet season, largely due to the fact that there are
exponentially fewer visiting surfers on the island at that time. Be friendly, leave the attitude at
home and share a few waves—you should be fine.
Things To Do: For culture and handicrafts, check out Ubud in Bali’s center. For dancing and
debauchery, head to Kuta Beach.
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Region | Indonesia
Where To Stay: Bali’s entire economy is based on tourism, and there are hostels, hotels,
bungalows and villas for every budget. Stay on the east coast for convenience, or in Kuta for
cheaper rooms and a lively nightlife.
Accommodation
Aleesha Villas – A luxury private pool villa resort offering personalised packages and services all
within walking distance of Sanur’s restaurants and beaches. - Find on Surf Sleep Travel
Address: Kesari II, Sanur, Bali
What To Bring: A shortboard and a step-up for bigger days. Booties and a helmet if you charge
but are worried about reef. Any surf accessories you anticipate needing, or cash to buy them at
one of the many local surf shops. Sun protection. DO NOT BRING any illegal substances, as drug
trafficking in Bali can result in life imprisonment and sometimes even the death penalty.
Getting There: Bali loves tourism, and 30-day visas are handed out like candy ($25USD). As far as
travel goes, depending on where you live, Bali is either extremely close and easy to access, or
extremely not. Flights are markedly cheaper during the wet season—another reason to visit Bali
during the summer. Airport code: DPS.
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Region | Indonesia
Java
For a great majority of the surf population, Java equals G-Land, and little more. But for those in the
know, the world’s most populous island houses more than just 60% of all Indonesians—it also has a
number of high-quality reef setups! With a little creativity and a touch of persistence, the intrepid
explorer can find his own Indonesian dream—minus the crowds of the country’s more popular surf
regions. Welcome to Java, Indonesia’s best kept secret.
The Surf: Predominantly heavy, hollow reef breaks—which makes Java an intermediate to expert
destination.
G-Land: The lefthand reef/point at Grajagan is one of the best in the world, and it’s storied
barrels are steeped in history, as legendary Gerry Lopez used to camp for months in the jungle
alone, enjoying mind-melting tuberides without another surfer in sight.
Turtles: Another epic lefthand barrel, Turtles is a critical drop to tuberide and can handle
size. Unlike G-Land, however, Turtles doesn’t enjoy all-day offshore winds, so the dawn patrol is
essential.
One Palm Point: An epic lefthand barrel breaking over shallow reef, One Palm breaks on a
small island off the west coast of Java.
Apocalypse: A glorified closeout of legendary proportions, Apocalypse is an extremely fast,
semi-secret wave somewhere in the Java region that looks epic in photos, but can be terrifying in
person.
Ombak Tujuh: A deep-water lefthand reef that can handle size, Ombak Tujuh is Java’s big
wave spot, and enjoys relatively offshore winds throughout the predominant swell season.
The Water: As with everywhere in Indo, the water in Java is the stuff dreams are made of. Surface
temps hover around 80F (28C) year round.
The Season: Swells pump between March and November, and as an added bonus, the
predominant wind during this season is offshore all day long at G-Land.
The Vibe: G-Land can be extremely crowded, with three surf camps and upwards of 100 visiting
surfers at any given time. Other areas range from localized to empty. You’ll do well to maintain a
respectful attitude and limit yourself to waves that fit your competency level.
Things To Do: Aside from surfing? Try not to contract malaria. Otherwise, if you are looking for
entertainment, take a boat to Bali.
Where To Stay: G-Land was the original “surf camp” and now houses three different
accommodation options. Other land camps are springing up around Java, but many spots require
boat access and feral jungle squatting, if not a dedicated live-aboard charter.
What To Bring: Solid boards for solid waves. People don’t go to Java to noseride or boost airs—
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they go for heavy barrels over shallow reef, so your quiver should reflect this fact. Bring multiples
of everything (boards, leashes, booties, helmets) and all the accessories you’ll need. People have
been known to surf certain spots in fullsuits (for reef protection, not warmth), so take that into
consideration. Mosquito/malaria control is essential, and if you are camping feral, you’ll need to be
fully equipped and prepared for anything. DO NOT bring or transport any illegal substances, as
drug trafficking in Indonesia is punishable by death and/or life imprisonment.
Getting There: Your two main options are to take a boat over from Bali (if you are heading to GLand) or fly into Jakarta (to access the waves on the western coast). Tourist visas available upon
arrival. Airport codes: DPS (Denpasar, Bali) and CGK (Jakarta).
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Region | Indonesia
Sumatra
Sumatra delivering the goods. Photo thanks to Aura Surf. Find out more about staying here.
While the surfing world remains collectively focused on the tiny archipelago to the south and west,
Sumatra’s mainland and other nearby islands continue to pump out the same tropical perfection
that mesmerized Peter Troy 40 years ago—albeit with less fanfare now that the Mentawais have
stolen much of the limelight. Not that the rest of Sumatra cares. Reputation means nothing to this
fortuitous stretch of coastline that some say is better now (after the 2005 earthquake) than it was
when first discovered, making for a classic, affordable land-based alternative to the fleet of superyachts anchored just offshore in the Ments.
The Surf: Surf in Sumatra ranges from user-friendly river mouths to draining, dry reef hell-tubes,
so in general this is an intermediate to expert destination.
Nias (Lagundri Bay): The original Sumatran dream, Nias is a long barreling righthander set
against a picturesque backdrop and a storied history. After the reef was lifted substantially by the
2005 earthquake, locals say the wave actually improved and is now hollower than ever.
Indicators: A dry reef hell-tube up the point from Nias, Indicators is for experts and hellcharging locals only, but for those with the gumption can provide the barrel of a lifetime.
Ujung Bocur: A high-quality lefthand reef/point on mainland Sumatra that has been likened
to Bali’s Uluwatu.
Telo Islands: Located off the coast of Northern Sumatra, the Telos have only recently been
explored, and have proven as wave-rich as anywhere else in Indo—but with a fraction of the
crowds.
Banyak Islands: Another lesser-known group of islands off the coast of Sumatra, the Banyaks
offer an uncrowded alternative to the nearby Mentawais.
The Water: Crystal clear and bathtub warm, the waters of Sumatra hover around 80 F (28 C) year
round.
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Region | Indonesia
The Season: As with most regions in Indonesia, Sumatra and its surrounding islands pump
between March and September—although there are rumors of offseason swells at Nias with nary a
surfer in sight.
The Vibe: Nias is incredibly crowded and has historically had a problem with crime. Other areas
are accessible only through camps and live-aboard yachts, while still others remain as empty as
they were 40 years ago, with only a handful of feral surfers enjoying their secrets.
Surfing Resort | View Details
Damai Bungalows | View Details
Aura Surf Resort | View Details
Things To Do: Not much going on out here besides surfing, diving and fishing. Lagundri Bay has a
bit of a social/party scene, but otherwise you are more likely to suffer from malaria than a
hangover.
Where To Stay: Accommodation options vary widely. Nias has extremely cheap rooms available,
while the Telo Islands have a number of exclusive land camps with prices rumored to be in the
$300–600/night range. There are also a number of charter yachts in the area.
Surf Camps:
Karang Nyimbor Hotel and Surf Camp – Centrally located in a beautifully lush, tropical setting, right in front of
Ujung Bocor Point - Find on Surf Sleep Travel
Address: Krui
Accommodation
Villa Air Manis – Villa Air Manis encompasses 3 acres of landscaped gardens surrounded by lush
tropical rain forest. The mountain-top overlooks Air Manis beach, picturesque islands, and swell wrapping in
from the Indian Ocean. - Find on Surf Sleep Travel
Address: 151 Jalan Air Manis, Padang Selatan, West Sumatra | Phone: +61428381275
What To Bring: Multiple shortboards and step-ups built for barrels. A large mini-gun if you intend
to charge on the big days. All of the necessary surf accessories, as there isn’t much available in this
area. Booties and a helmet if you are of the persuasion. Long sleeves, mosquito nets and antimalarials unless you want to go home with a raging fever. Adequate sun protection and a couple of
books for the downtime.
Getting There: The airport in Padang is your main gateway into Sumatra (best options are
Singapore Airlines and Garuda), and from there you will travel overland to wherever you are
staying or meeting your tour/yacht. Tourist visas available upon arrival. Airport code: PDG.
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Region | Indonesia
Sumbawa
When people think of Indo, they tend to limit themselves to Bali and the Mentawais. What many
forget is that Bali has a number of neighboring islands with great surf only a short flight or ferry
ride away. Sumbawa is a volcanic island in the Nusa Tengarra region and is much more rugged than
Bali—but no less epic in the surf department. From the land camps near Lakey to the boat-access
waves of the west coast, Sumbawa is one of Indo’s best-kept secrets—a tube rider’s paradise
hidden in plain sight.
The Surf: Sumbawa caters to the experienced barrel riding crew, with a number of heavy tubes
breaking over shallow reef. In general, this island should be considered an intermediate to expert
surf destination.
Lakey Peak: A hollow right- and left-breaking peak on the eastern side of the island, Lakey
Peak can get quite crowded due to the numerous land camps in the area, but is one of the more
consistent waves on Sumbawa. Typically blows out in the afternoon.
Periscopes: A heavy, fast, top-to-bottom righthand barrel in the Lakey Peak region,
Periscopes can also get quite crowded but is worth checking out if righthand tubes are your forte.
Like Lakey Peak, Periscopes typically blows out in the afternoon.
Scar Reef: Sumbawa’s western coast is legendary for its heavy barrels and constant offshore
winds, and Scar Reef is possibly the most well-known wave in the region. A heavy, draining lefthand
barrel that can sometimes end in dry reef, Scar Reef needs a solid SW swell and is not for the faint
of heart.
Supersuck: One of the heaviest waves in Indo, Supersuck is an expert-only lefthand barrel on
Sumbawa’s west coast that requires a large, properly directioned swell to fire.
Yo-Yo’s: A mellower option if you are on the west coast and don’t fancy lefthand death
barrels, Yo-Yo’s has two rippable righthanders that thrive when the swell is too small for Scar Reef
and Supersuck.
The Water: Like the rest of Indonesia, Sumbawa enjoys warm, beautiful, unpolluted water with
average surface temps hovering around 82 F (28 C) year round.
The Season: The best season for Sumbawa is winter (May through September), although the
months on either side of winter can deliver as well.
The Vibe: The Lakey area is heinously crowded, as are other marquee spots that are accessed by
a number of boat tours. There are a few secret waves to be found, however, and at the heaviest
breaks the ocean regulates the crowds.
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Region | Indonesia
West Sumbawa Surf Camp – Rantung
Beach Hotel | View Details
Things To Do: Surf. That is why you are here. With Bali so close, you are likely to go there for
cultural activities and non-surf entertainment.
Where To Stay: Lakey has tons of homestays and land camps. The west side also has a number of
camps and boat charters. For the most part, you’ll get the most out of your trip if you go with an
organized tour operator.
What To Bring: A shortboard and a pair of step-ups. Heavy water leashes, booties and a helmet,
warm water wax and your A-game if you intend to charge waves like Scar Reef and Supersuck.
Although unnecessary for warmth, a 1.5mm wetsuit top will offer extra protection from the reef.
DO NOT bring along any illicit substances, as Indonesia has extremely strict punishments for
possession and trafficking of drugs.
Getting There: You’ll access Sumbawa from Bali, so Denpasar will be your most convenient
gateway into the country. Tourist visas are available upon arrival. Airport code: DPS.
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Region | Indonesia
Lombok
A short boat ride from Bali, mythical Lombok houses what is arguably the best lefthand barrel in
the world. But there is more to Bali’s rugged neighbor than Desert Point, as the island’s southern
coast is holding a number of user-friendly waves with minimal crowds—particularly when
compared with the circus that is Bali. For something off the beaten path—or to battle the crowds
at Deserts for the wave of your life—Lombok is a fun alternative to the prototypical Indonesian surf
trip.
The Surf: Desert Point is one of the heaviest waves in Indo and the reason most surfers bother to
visit Lombok. The rest of the island’s well-known waves, however, are actually quite pedestrian.
Thus, while Desert Point is an advanced to expert wave, Lombok in general is an intermediate
destination.
Desert Point: Although Namibia’s Skeleton Bay might be longer, it isn’t as consistently
perfect down the line as Desert Point, which grows as it progresses along the reef and has
produced some of the longest barrel rides in history. Although pundits will argue the “top spot”
debate until they are blue in the face, no one will deny the fact that Desert Point is one of the best
lefthand barrels in the world.
Kuta: The center of surf tourism on Lombok, Kuta has decent reef breaks in the vicinity, both
lefts and rights, and has good access to the island’s other waves.
Ekas: Ekas has an outer reef wave and a number of inner reforms, both lefts and rights, all of
which are playful and user-friendly.
Belongas Bay: Offshore during the wet season, Belongas has two waves, a left and a right on
either side of the bay. Neither comes close to matching Deserts, but then again no wave does. A
good option for a fun, uncrowded surf.
Grupuk: Grupuk Bay is a popular stop with charter boats and has a number of separate
breaks, three of which are fun righthanders.
The Water: As with practically everywhere in Indo, the water on Lombok is about as pristine as it
gets. Surface temps hover right around 82 F (28 C) year round.
The Season: Desert Point needs a large SW swell to break and is located on the west coast, which
means it’s offshore in the winter trades. Thus, Lombok’s marquee wave shares the same season as
the Bukit Peninsula on Bali—May through September. Spring and fall (October through December
and March through May respectively) can be a touch inconsistent, but can see waves at most of
Lombok’s spots, whereas summer (December through February) is best during cyclone swells and
at eastern facing reefs, which are offshore during the wet season.
The Vibe: Desert Point is one of the best—and best-known—waves in the world, and when it
fires, it is extremely crowded. If you are looking for a cruisy holiday experience, this is the wrong
place to go. If you are keen to battle 100 other bloodthirsty surf-rats for what will probably be the
best ride of your life, then you’ll feel right at home. Everywhere else on Lombok is relatively
uncrowded and peaceful.
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Indonesia Surf School & Holiday Tours
| View Details
Things To Do: Not much. Most people stay on Bali and wait for Deserts to break, then race over
to Lombok for the swell. Kuta has a bit of a tourist scene and is a decent place to base if you are
looking for more than just surf. In general, you’ll find your entertainment on nearby Bali.
Where To Stay: If you want a hotel or a comfortable hostel/homestay, Kuta is the place to be. If
you are coming specifically for a Desert Point swell, you’ll probably end up staying in one of the
local rental huts.
Accommodation
Kompas tour and travel surfaries - Find on Surf Sleep Travel
Address: Jl. Parawisita Pantai, Kuta. Lombok 83573 | Phone: +61419404015 / +6181239239666
What To Bring: If you are going to Lombok, you are probably going for Deserts. With that in
mind, bring multiple barrel-friendly shortboards and step-ups, heavy-duty leashes, booties and a
helmet if you prefer and possibly even a spring suit (for reef protection).
Getting There: Lombok is accessible through Bali, so Denpasar will be your gateway into the
country. From Bali, you’ll take the ferry (or hire a private boat) to Lombok. Tourist visas are
available upon arrival in Bali. Airport code: DPS.
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Region | Indonesia
Mentawai Islands
Another perfect day in the Mentawais. Photo thanks to The Mkimba 1. Find out more about staying here.
What can one say about arguably the best surf zone in the world that hasn’t already been said
thousands of times in countless books, magazines and starry-eyed conversations? Warm, blue,
hollow, consistent—just about every cliché applies when it comes to describing the perfection of
the Mentawais, and we as a community have proven more than happy to pay dearly for the
opportunity to revel in it.
The first photos and stories from the region started filtering into public consciousness around
1990, and by the turn of the millennium the “Ments” had firmly cemented their reputation as the
dreamiest of dream destinations. With an endless supply of coral reefs sculpting the 100+ known
waves in the area and accommodating nearly any wind condition that might arise, in addition to a
virtually infinite storm train generating non-stop swell from April through October, it is easy to
understand how surf tourism in this tiny archipelago has become a hugely lucrative industry. What
started out as a handful of private, semi-secret surf charters has ballooned into a veritable flotilla
of competing luxury yachts (now numbering more than 40), and in the past five years land camps
have started to pop up in the area as well, pushing crowds to near critical mass. But new waves
continue to be discovered, and with so many world-class options it is unlikely that these tiny
islands west of Sumatra will relinquish their stranglehold on our fantasies and pocketbooks
anytime soon.
The Surf: All the waves in this region break over reef, and most are hollow barrels, making this an
intermediate to advanced destination.
Rifles: One of the best righthand barrels in the world, this wave in the Kandui region is about
as perfect as they come.
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Region | Indonesia
Green Bush: Possibly the Mentawais’ heaviest wave, this extremely long lefthand reef barrel
has to be seen to be believed.
Lances Right (Hollow Trees): The original Mentawai dream-wave, for many people this
rippable, hollow righthand reef break is the definition of perfection.
Macaronis: A rippable, hollow, seemingly endless lefthander that has been the stuff of wet
dreams for nearly 25 years.
Playgrounds: A more user-friendly wave for the less experienced visitor.
The Water: The Mentawais are the stereotypical island paradise, a fact that is reflected in the
water quality. If we weren’t all so obsessed with riding waves, we’d probably discover epic
snorkeling in the region—but it’s unlikely that we’ll be hanging up our boards for mask and fins
anytime soon. Water surface temps hover right around 80 F (28 C) year round, so the only reason
to wear rubber here is for protection from the reef.
The Season: April through October, with almost 100% consistency between May and September.
The Vibe: Crowd pressure and an unfortunate attitude of entitlement stemming from the
payment of exorbitant camp and charter prices can lead to tension in the water, and competition
and politicking between boat and camp owners replicates this vibe in boardrooms and government
offices. But it doesn’t take much to look past the negativity—after all, there are more than enough
waves to go around. More often than not, visitors go home happy, a fact that is reflected in our
loyalty to the region.
Mentawai Surf Camp| View Details
Kandui Villas | View Details
Aloita Resort & Spa | View Details
The MIKUMBA 1| View Details
THE INDONESIAN ODYSSEY |
Mentawai Blue Surf Charter – Naga Laut |
View Details
View Details
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Region | Indonesia
Things To Do: If you are on a boat: watch DVDs, read books and play drinking games. If you are at
a land camp: get a massage, read books and play drinking games. If you are going feral: kill
mosquitos, read books and play drinking games.
Are you getting the picture? Aside from surfing, Bintang seems to be the main source of
entertainment in these parts.
Where To Stay: With over 40 live-aboard charters and a handful of land camps in the region,
accommodation and tour options abound, with prices ranging from around $150-300/night. For
those on a budget, it is possible to rent space in warungs and local villagers’ homes, or to camp in
the jungle, although this will limit mobility and expose you to malaria, a problem of epidemic
proportions in the archipelago.
Sibon Explorer Mentawai Boat– Sibon Explorer Boat Charter is the right and safe choice for
you to surf the best waves & barrels of Mentawai. - Find on Surf Sleep Travel
Address: Mentawai, Indonesia
Things To Bring: If you are planning a trip to the Mentawais, you are probably coming to get
barreled. Waves rarely get larger than double overhead, so your coffin will most likely house a
couple shortboards and a couple round-pin step-ups. Sun protection is a necessity, booties and a
helmet worth bringing if you are sketched out by reef or plan to charge, and mosquito nets and
anti-malarial medication are essential if you plan to spend any kind of time ashore. Otherwise, boat
charters and land camps are typically all-inclusive, so unless you are planning to go feral you won’t
need to bring much. Some light reading material will be nice for downtime between swells, and
energy bars will keep you going when there IS no downtime between swells. A point-and-shoot
camera will be worth its weight in blackmail fodder if you can capture your boat mates during
moments of drunken revelry.
Getting There: All access to the Mentawais is through the Sumatran city of Padang, which fields
international flights from Singapore and Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. Flights into these hubs will vary in
price depending on where you are coming from and who you are flying with, but Air Asia, a lowcost carrier based out of Malaysia, has been known to offer incredibly low fares that include little
more than taxes and airport fees. 30-day Indonesian visas are available to practically everyone for a
fee of around $25. Airport code: PDG.
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Region | Mexico
Mexico
Baja Norte
The first surfers to visit the Baja peninsula were Californians in the late ’40s, and by the early ’60s
Baja California Norte—Northern Baja—was the Golden State’s favorite escape. Just across the
border from San Diego lies Tijuana, an infamous party destination, and south from there stretches
a nearly endless succession of reefs, points, beach breaks and river mouths. For those looking to
leave behind US crowds and pollution (not to mention the Vietnam War draft) and embrace a life
of exploration and adventure, in the ’60s there was no better place than California’s southern
neighbor.
Today, Northern Baja has changed somewhat. High-rise hotels and resorts have sprung up in and
around Rosarito, Ensenada and Tijuana, and a variety of restaurants and bars attract visiting surfers
and weekend partiers, despite escalating cartel-related problems and various acts of violence that
are increasingly targeting surfers. But one needs only travel south of Ensenada to find that the old
Baja is still very much intact. Hundreds of miles of uninhabited desert and coastline are
interspersed with desolate fishing villages and empty waves peeling into obscurity and waiting for
the intrepid to rediscover them. Baja has been there for us from the beginning, and chances are
good that it always will be.
The Surf: As far as surf goes, Baja is a land of diversity, where secret spots exist alongside
household names (sometimes only a few miles apart!) and beach breaks and reefs litter a coastline
that is better known for righthand points. In general, this is an intermediate surf zone.
Baja Malibu: One of the heaviest beach breaks in the California region, Baja Malibu is in a
residential area near the US/Mexico border.
Tijuana Sloughs: Polluted and dangerous, but also incredibly hollow when the sandbars are
perfect.
Salsipuedes: A world class righthand point a few hours south of the border.
K-38s: Popular with the beginner to intermediate crew, K-38s is a semi-soft, user-friendly
reef peak.
La Fonda: Another sandy, user-friendly rock reef peak about an hour south of the border.
The Water: Although it may seem counter-intuitive, the water in Northern Baja—which lies south
of San Diego—is typically a bit colder than that of Southern California. This is due in large part to
the Humboldt Current, which creates upwelling and dumps cold water onto the desert shores
pretty much year round. In winter you’ll be looking at water temps in the mid-50s F (13 C), while
summers at the warmest spots might get up to just below 70 F (21 C)—if you’re lucky. In general,
you are looking at a 2/2 wetsuit in summer and a 4/3 with booties in winter.
Water cleanliness can vary drastically, depending on where you are. In and around Tijuana the
water can be filthy (two days before the writing of this guide the Mexican government spilled 1
million gallons of raw sewage in TJ, rendering Tijuana Sloughs toxic and unsurfable), whereas those
surfing undeveloped areas of the desert have only urchins and sharks to worry about.
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Region | Mexico
The Season: Like the rest of North America’s Pacific Coast, Baja California is a long, westernfacing continental coastline, which means that it picks up both north and south swells, with
different waves thriving under different conditions. North Pacific swell pumps between November
and March, while southern hemi energy and tropical swells (produced by nearby hurricanes) filter
in between April and October. Like Southern California, large stretches of the Northern Baja coast
suffer from June Gloom, a foggy and often onshore wind trend that plagues the region during the
early months of summer.
The Vibe: Surfwise, you won't find much in the way of negativity here. The spots near the border
have pretty active expatriate surf communities and can get a little busy at times, but even there
the general feeling is typically one of shared stoke. And as mentioned above, the further south you
go, the more likely you are to surf completely alone. The only real concern in Northern Baja is from
drug- and desperation-related violence (the latter of which often targets visiting surfers). In
general, it is best to stay away from party cities like Tijuana and Rosarito, avoid driving at night and
keep your nose clean (both figuratively and literally). Aside from this small group of ne’er-do-wells,
the people of Baja are some of the most friendly and hospitable on the planet.
Things To Do: If you intend to disregard the advice above, then you can certainly find any and all
forms of debauchery available to you in cities like Tijuana and Rosarito (although after 50+ trips to
the peninsula I have yet to run into anyone who has actually seen the infamous donkey show).
Aside from these party-focused regions, however, there is little more than desert, dusty camping
and waves…which, if you are at all serious about surfing, is why you came in the first place.
Where To Stay: Hotels and condos have sprung up with alarming frequency in the Tijuana to
Ensenada region, but to bask in the lap of luxury is not why you go to Baja. A good tent is the
accommodation of choice in this desert, and you can camp pretty much anywhere you want—
although it’s wise to follow your instincts when it comes to camping in dodgy areas.
What To Bring: In a word—everything. In Baja, you need to be completely self-sufficient, so your
vehicle—which is hopefully all- or 4-wheel drive—should be weighted down with gear. Water, food,
camping equipment, firewood, spare parts for the car, a good map and a diverse quiver—pretty
much anything you can imagine needing in Baja will eventually prove indispensible. But perhaps
your most valuable asset will be creativity. The desert can throw you a curve at a moment’s notice,
and the ability to deal with situations with MacGyver-like ingenuity is worth any number of GPS
units and satellite phones.
Getting There: Visa’s are not an issue in the border areas—as long as you have your passport on
you, you should be fine. If you intend to venture south of Ensenada, however, you will want to pick
up a tourist card/visa, which can be obtained for $22 at the Mexican Secondary Inspection building
just on the Tijuana side of the border.
As far as transport goes, 99% of Northern Baja is accessible only by car. You can fly into Tijuana or
Ensenada and pick up rentals there, but you are better off driving in from San Diego with a vehicle
that you trust. And remember, in Mexico it is a crime to get in a car accident. Always carry Mexican
auto insurance! Airport codes: SAN (San Diego), TIJ (Tijuana) or ESE (Ensenada).
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Region | Mexico
Baja Sur
While Northern Baja suffers from cold water and a reputation for violence, Baja Sur is essentially a
series of safe, warm surf oases strung along the desert coastline. From party/surf destinations like
Cabo San Lucas to the dusty, timeless perfection of Scorpion Bay, Baja Sur has something for
everyone, and has been a favorite California escape since the ’60s.
The Surf: While there are a handful of beach breaks and a few reefs of note, Baja is the land of
righthand points. Long and symmetrical, these points have been a hotbed of high-performance
logging and stylish trim-style sliding since long before most of us were born, and chances are good
that they’ll continue to be so long after we are gone. In general, the waves of Baja Sur cater to
beginners and intermediate surfers, but perfection has no bias, and any number of pros can be
found along the coast every time a solid south swell rolls through.
Scorpion Bay: The granddaddy of all epic righthand points, this wave (four separate waves,
actually) has haunted the dreams of millions of surfers since it was first discovered back in the early
’70s.
Zippers: This righthand point is one of Cabo’s best waves and has the crowds to prove it. It
can be a bit too busy for many people’s tastes, but when it’s on it's a sight to behold.
Isla Natividad: Hard to access and harder still to score, Island Natividad is one of the original
fly-in destinations for intrepid surfer/pilots. It is also possible to hire a boat to take you out to this
dusty island, where perfect sandbar barrels spin all day long thanks to offshore easterly exposure.
Punta Conejo: A dusty left point break in the middle of nowhere, Conejo exemplifies the
Baja experience—perfect, isolated, camping-only waves in the middle of a dusty desert.
Shipwrecks (Punta Gorda): Another long righthand point break out of San Jose Del Cabo,
Shipwrecks can get crowded but is usually a bit less busy than nearby Zippers.
The Water: Clean, beautiful and warm, the sapphire blue water of Baja Sur paints a surreal
contrast to the dusty brown shoreline. Surface temps in the middle of the state range from 64 to
80 F (18 to 26 C), with spots to the north somewhat colder and Cabo San Lucas holding bathtub
temperatures year round.
The Season: Because Baja Sur faces west, it enjoys two seasons, picking up north swell between
November and March and south swell from April through September. Different spots thrive under
different swell conditions, but those classic point break moments of magic are typically the result
of large south swells. Cabo and the East Cape also enjoy tropical hurricane swells between July and
September.
The Vibe: Depending on how far off the beaten path you get, you can surf with anywhere from
zero to 200 other surfers. Tensions can run high at the most crowded spots—especially around
Cabo—but there are enough waves for everyone, so come with a positive attitude and you’ll find
what you are looking for.
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Region | Mexico
Things To Do: Surf. Fish. Breathe dust. Kill flies. Drink tequila.
Where To Stay: Cabo is set up for tourists, with an abundance of hotels and hostels. Otherwise, a
few of the most popular spots up and down the coast may have the occasional bungalow for rent,
but for the most part you’ll be living out of a tent.
Accommodation
Palapas Resort – Palapas Resort is a dream for all, not to mention ideal for retreats and surfers Find on Surf Sleep Travel
Address: San Jose Del Cabo / La Playita, BCS | Phone: 831-334-4963
What To Bring: A log, a fish and a shortboard. If at all possible, leave your leash at home—
nothing feels better than trimming down the line sans leg rope at one of the world’s best righthand
points. Bring wax, sunscreen, ding repair kits and any other surf accessory you anticipate needing
—there’s nothing here but water and dust. A 4x4 rig is pretty much mandatory if you plan to do
any exploring to out-of-the-way locations, and your vehicle should be fully stocked with food,
water, camping gear, spare tires and auto repair tools.
Getting There: The classic route is overland, driving down from the San Diego/Tijuana border
(roughly 12 hours to Guerrero Negro at the Baja Norte/Baja Sur border, and another 20 to Cabo).
Many fly in for swells, however, both privately (to tiny fishing village airstrips) and commercially (to
Loreto, La Paz and Los Cabos). If driving, remember to get a tourist visa when you cross the border
from San Diego, or risk getting turned around at Guerrero Negro. Otherwise, tourist visas are
available upon arrival. Airport codes: SJD (Los Cabos), LAP (La Paz) and LTO (Loreto).
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Region | Mexico
Oaxaca
Another Mexican gem. Photo thanks to Infinity Surf Charters. Find out more about surfing this here
Mainland Mexico is one of the most consistent, swell-rich coasts in the Pacific, and the state of
Oaxaca has a variety of waves and wave types to choose from. Add to that relatively mellow
crowds, warm water, cheap cost of living and delicious food, and it is easy to understand why this
has been a surf-trip staple for West Coast wave riders since the early ’70s.
The Surf: Famous for its next-level beach breaks and mind-numbing sand-bottom righthand
points, Oaxaca is an intermediate to expert surf zone.
Puerto Escondido (Zicatela Beach): The world’s heaviest and most infamous beach break,
Puerto has charged back into the limelight in the past few years as the big wave paddle movement
has come into it’s own. Handling upwards of 20 foot Hawaiian (40-foot faces), this strip of sand is
not for the faint of heart.
Zipolite: This rock/sand peak is a good option for the intermediate surfer who wants the
Mexican experience but not the potentially fatal hold-downs of Puerto.
La Punta: A popular option just to the south of Zicatela—particularly when the “Mexican
Pipeline” is big and deadly—this lefthand point is a fun, rippable, often crowded alternative to
death by beach break.
Carrizalillo: Another mellow option when the area’s marquee spot is out of control,
Carrizalillo is only a few miles from Zicatela and houses a number of user-friendly peaks.
“La Jolla”: The surf spot dubbed “La Jolla” (an unsuccessful attempt by the Rip Curl Search
event to preserve the spot’s anonymity) is only one of many semi-secret sand-bottom righthand
barreling points in Oaxaca. Quickly gaining in notoriety and popularity, these points have already
seen their golden age come and go—but that doesn’t mean they aren’t still epic waves, crowds
notwithstanding. Want proof? Go find a copy of the video from the Search event in 2006 and have
your mind blown.
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Region | Mexico
The Water: Warm and dirty near cities, warm and clean away from them. Water temps hover
between 81 to 86 F (27 to 30 C), making this some of the warmest water on earth.
The Season: The great thing about Mainland Mexico is that it pumps year round, picking up
swells from the north, south and even west during tropical storm events. South swells are typically
biggest and come between May and August, but you are just as likely to score in winter.
The Vibe: The waves surrounding Puerto Escondido can get very crowded, but most people are
pretty friendly. Other areas see few to no surfers, so if you are looking to score empty waves, take a
side trip off the beaten path.
Wildmex Surf Camp | View Details
Infinity Surf Charters | View Details
Things To Do: You know those postcards that show beautiful people lounging on beautiful
beaches, soaking up the sun and eating mangoes? They are all shot in Mexico—or at least they
could be. This is about the best place on earth for beach bumming, so lounge to your heart’s
content.
Where To Stay: This stretch of coast is set up for tourists and surfers, so whether you are looking
for a surf camp, a hostel, a hotel or a fully-equipped and staffed villa, you’ll find it.
What To Bring: A bag full of shortboards and step-ups built for barrels, plus a rhino chaser if you
are coming for big Puerto. A car with good 4x4 capabilities if you intend to explore. A book and
some powerful sunscreen. A taste for spicy food and tequila. DO NOT bring, buy or attempt to
transport drugs—you’ll either end up in jail or get killed by competing drug runners.
Getting There: Puerto Escondido now has it’s own international airport, which typically sees
flights routed through Mexico City. Oaxaca houses the main airport in the region, and you can
easily catch a bus from there to Puerto (six hours). Another option is to fly into Acapulco and travel
overland from there (five hours). Visa’s available upon arrival. Airport codes: PXM (Puerto
Escondido), OAX (Oaxaca) and ACA (Acapulco).
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Region | NEw Zealand
NEw Zealand
North Island
Although practically everyone thinks of sheep and Lord of the Rings whenever they think of New
Zealand, there has always been a lot more to the “Land of the Long White Cloud” than hobbits and
rings of power (or wooly mammals, for that matter). Aotearoa—as the country is known by the
Maori—is easily one of the most beautiful in existence, and also happens to have a plethora of
quality surf setups. The north island in particular has an abundance of uncrowded surf in close
proximity to major cities, and warm(er) water to boot. Whether or not you are a fan of Middle
Earth, New Zealand’s north island should have no problem keeping you entertained.
The Surf: Points, beach breaks, even rock reefs—if it exists in surfing, it exists in New Zealand.
There are waves for every level of surfer on the north island, but in general you can consider this
an intermediate-level destination.
Raglan: One of the worlds best lefthand points, Raglan isn’t exactly a secret, and can play
host to quite a crowd—but it’s typically worth the hassle.
Ninety-Mile Beach: If for no other reason than the name, it’s worth checking out this
endless stretch of beach break nirvana. Chances are good that you’ll be able to find a sand bar all
to yourself.
Shipwreck Bay: Another endless lefthand point that can provide rides of up to three minutes
on its day, this wave featured in the original Endless Summer.
Piha: Worth visiting for the surf—a series of beach break sandbars—but even more so for
the vistas provided by two black sand beaches with Lion Rock smack dab in the middle of them.
Breathtaking is an understatement.
Taranaki: A region rather than a specific break, this area is rife with quality waves and plays
host to a women’s WT event each year.
The Water: With hundreds of miles of coastline and large portions of it undeveloped, water
clarity can be downright crystalline. Sea temperatures in Auckland range from 59 to 70 F (15 to 21
C), with northern spots warmer and southern spots considerably colder, but in general a 3/2
wetsuit should be sufficient.
The Season: Winter (July through September) for the west coast and fall (April through June) for
the east coast—although with ever-changing weather and heaps of swell potential, either side can
fire at any time. Luckily, it's a short drive across the island, so you could theoretically surf both
coasts in the same day.
The Vibe: Marquee spots (Raglan) and waves near major cities (Auckland) can be crowded, but
for the most part it will just be you and your mates (and the Great White sharks). Politically, New
Zealand is one of the most peaceful countries in existence, (even going so far as to be adamantly
non-nuke), so no issues there.
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Things To Do: New Zealand offers so much it’s almost a shame we have to bring surfboards.
Check out the bays in the north, Wai-o-tapu and other volcanic/thermal attractions in Rotorua,
Tongariro National Park, Mount Taranaki—the list goes on and on. Oh yeah, and you can
snowboard/ski there, too.
Where To Stay: Although much of New Zealand is rural farmland, the country is a well-traveled
stop on the backpacker/tourist path, and the north island has an almost unlimited supply of hostels
and hotels. Another option is to rent a caravan and take your home with you on the road.
What To Bring: A shortboard for beach breaks and something fun for the points. A 3/2 wettie in
winter, or if you are planning to spend time on the southern part of the island. Cold weather
clothing and some good hiking boots. An appreciation for wilderness vistas.
Getting There: Auckland is a major international airport serviced from all over the world. Visas
unnecessary as long as you are from a visa waiver country
(http://www.immigration.govt.nz/migrant/stream/visit/visitors/). Otherwise, apply for a visa ahead
of time. Airport code: AKL.
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South Island
Widely recognized as one of the most beautiful islands in the world, New Zealand’s south island
offers landscapes ranging from grassy, pastoral hills to towering fiords, from snow-capped peaks to
expansive glaciers—and nearly everything in between. Oh, and there are also a ton of epic setups
on both coasts, making this a classic surf/eco-adventure destination.
The Surf: Like its northerly neighbor, New Zealand’s south island has beach breaks, points and
reefs, with a wide variety of nooks and crannies ensuring that there is nearly always somewhere
out of the wind. In general, this should be considered an intermediate surf zone.
Kiakoura: A quaint coastal town popular for whale watching, Kiakoura has a number of
quality righthand point breaks.
Tarangua Bay: Located on the north coast, this series of sand-bottom peaks tends to have
something breaking even when everywhere else is flat.
Hickory Bay: The classic New Zealand surf experience, Hickory Bay is a bit of a trek, but is
well protected from the wind, making this beach break setup a great option if everywhere else is
blown out.
Stony Beach: With beach break peaks, a wedgy righthander and a point break during big
swells, this private-access-only spot offers the entire gamut of surf options—just ask for permission
before making the trek in.
Blaketown Wedge: Breaking at the mouth of the Grey River, this right and left sand-bottom
peak produces hollow, powerful barrels.
The Water: Clean water surrounding a beautiful island with majestic backdrops makes for an
incredible surfing experience, but you pay for it with thick rubber. Average surface temps range
from 48 to 61 F (9 to 16 C).
The Season: For the Pacific coast, summer (November through February) sees warmer water and
air temps but inconsistent swell, while winter (June through August) is very consistent but brutally
cold, making the bridge season (March through May) the best time to surf. For the Tasman coast,
summer is best, with better weather and winds and no shortage of swell, while winter tends to be
cold and onshore.
The Vibe: The beaches near Christchurch can get a bit crowded (for New Zealand), but elsewhere
you’ll be surfing alone mid-week, and with a mellow crew of locals on the weekends.
Things To Do: Milford Sound has become quite popular with tourists in the past decade, and
some feel that this has ruined its ambiance somewhat, but it is still an incredible place to visit.
Franz Josef Glacier is another amazing natural attraction, bringing visitors in from all over the
world.
Where To Stay: New Zealand is a backpacker hotspot, and has a wide variety of hostels and B&Bs
available. It is also possible to do the south island in a caravan, or a car and tent.
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What To Bring: A standard shortboard and a backup. Thick rubber, especially if you are coming in
winter (a 5/4/3mm fullsuit plus booties, gloves and a hood should suffice). Cold weather gear for
your time on land. Good hiking boots/shoes and an affinity for the outdoors. A taste for meat pies
and lamb chops.
Getting There: Christchurch and Dunedin International Airports are the main gateways into the
south island, although it is also possible to fly into Auckland and then drive down and take the ferry
across Cook Strait. Visas unnecessary as long as you are from a visa waiver country
(http://www.immigration.govt.nz/migrant/stream/visit/visitors/). Otherwise, apply for a visa ahead
of time. Airport codes: AKL (Auckland), CHC (Christchurch) and DUD (Dunedin).
123
Region | Pacific Islands
Pacific Islands
Fiji
Pulling in at Cloubreak. Photo thanks to Tavarua Resort. Find out more about staying here.
With the recent progression in big wave paddle surfing and widespread documentation of two
enormously perfect swells over the past two seasons, our attention of late has been focused
squarely on Fiji—and in particular Cloudbreak, the newest, most perfect big wave paddle spot on
the planet. But lest we forget, Fiji has been a dream destination since long before the big wave
paddle resurgence—and the waves around Tavarua are only the tip of the iceberg.
Although the surf potential in and around Fiji’s 322 islands has been known for nearly half a
century, the “discovery” by Dave Clark in 1982 of the waves off of Tavarua island—specifically
Restaurants and Cloudbreak—are what really put the region on the map. Clark began construction
of the Tavarua Surf Resort shortly thereafter, and it quickly became the gold standard in exclusive
surf travel. Although all surf in Fiji is now deregulated due to government mandate (meaning Clark
and Co. no longer have exclusive rights), the resort still enjoys a stellar reputation, charges sky-high
nightly rates and boasts a calendar that is booked out multiple years in advance.
Tavarua (and Namotu, which is also located near Cloudbreak) are only a small part of the story,
however. Multiple camps have been built near Frigates Pass, another heavy left reef break, and
boat charters are starting to pop up as well. Whispers are starting to filter in about secret spots in
previously inaccessible island sub-groups, and for the intrepid explorer with a seaworthy yacht, the
potential for adventure—and the discovery of another Tavarua—is definitely there.
The Surf: Mostly heavy, mostly reef passes and mostly lefts. In general, this is an intermediate to
advanced destination.
Cloudbreak: An epic lefthand reefbreak that only gets better as it gets bigger, Cloudbreak
has redefined what is possible for big wave paddle surfers, particularly when it comes to barrel
riding.
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Restaurants: This lefthand reef barrel located a few hundred meters from Tavarua island is
long, symmetrical and shallow—and one of the best waves in the world.
Frigates Pass: Another lefthand barrel breaking on a stretch of reef miles from the nearest
landmass.
Tavarua Rights: A rare but perfect righthand reef/slab that works when the other waves off
of Tavarua are blown out.
Explore: Fiji has 322 islands, and only half a dozen of them are household names. But that
doesn’t mean the other 316 aren’t holding!
The Water: Crystal clear, sapphire blue and warm. The water in Fiji is what water should be—
clean and comfortable, welcoming and peaceful (a stark contrast to the waves, which can be
downright frightening). Water temps are 78 to 82 F (26 to 28 C) depending on the season, so at
most you’ll need a 1 or 2mm wetsuit top or a thin springsuit if you chill easily.
The Season: Centrally located in the middle of the Pacific, Fiji actually takes swells from both
directions, although summer (October through February) north swells are typically smaller due to
swell decay. Winter (May through August) can see strong winds, but large south swells pump pretty
consistently, making Fiji a destination of choice for the South Pacific season.
The Vibe: Fijian locals are renowned for their friendly, welcoming spirit. If you experience bad
vibes in the water, they will most likely be imported, as lineups can get crowded and bad blood has
been said to exist between competing tour operators.
Tavarua Resort | View Details
Fiji Surf Resort | View Details
Things To Do: Aside from surfing perfect waves, Fiji is also a great place to fish, dive, paddle or
simply relax in a hammock. As most of the resorts in the area are high-end and comfortable, this
can be a great place to take a family/surf holiday. And if your idea of fun involves watching the
world’s best surfers rip the world’s best waves, you could do a lot worse than the annual world tour
event at Cloudbreak/Restaurants every June.
Where To Stay: Surf camps are popping up all over the Fijian chain, with some of the most
famous being Tavarua, Namotu, Batiluva and Matanivusi. Cheaper accommodations can be found
on Viti Levu, but will require long boat rides out to the waves. Perhaps the best way to experience
Fiji is aboard your own yacht—if you are lucky enough to have one!
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Accommodation
Plantation Island Resort Fiji – Plantation Island can offer you total relaxation or a wide range of
leisure activities and cultural excursions. - Find on Surf Sleep Travel
Address: Mamanuca Islands Fiji | Phone: +679 6669333
Surf Resorts
Waidroka Bay Resort– Waidroka Bay Resort offers the perfect Fijian surf adventure, combining
pure relaxation and exhilarating action. - Find on Surf Sleep Travel
Address: Deuba, Korovisilou, Viti Levu 323, Fiji |Phone: +679 3304605
What To Bring: First and foremost, boards that can handle juice. Fiji is not a region known for
point breaks and longboards. Instead, you will be surfing heavy reef breaks that more often than
not include solid barrels and serious beat downs. Step-ups and mini-guns will make up the bulk of
your quiver, and a number of thick leashes will be necessary as well. There aren’t many surf shops
in the area, so bring warm to tropical water wax, as well as reef booties and a helmet (for those
who prefer the added security). Sun protection is also important, as is a good first aid kit for reef
cuts—particularly if you’ll be engaging in independent travel. But don’t bring your laptop and
smart phone! Fiji is the perfect place to leave your work behind and simply relax.
Getting There: Nadi is the main gateway into the country, and four-month tourist visas can be
obtained upon arrival for citizens of visa-exempt countries (virtually everyone). Airport code: NAN.
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Guam
One of the United States’ two territories (Puerto Rico being the other), Guam is half military base
and half tourist trap, with over one million visitors per year (mostly from Japan) and a massive,
ongoing military build-up making the island very busy. In many ways, Guam has a Hawaiian feel,
with Tumon Bay being the local version of Waikiki. But if you can see beyond the gawking tourists,
seedy red light districts, grumpy locals and hordes of crew-cut, uniformed Joes, Guam does have
some quality setups, and if nothing else is worth a look around while stopping over on your way to
Asia, Australia or Micronesia.
The Surf: Hollow reefs and reef passes when there are waves. However, the island’s location in
the far west Pacific means that swells are somewhat inconsistent. There are also a handful of
beginner spots, but for the most part this is an intermediate to advanced surf destination.
Boat Basin Left: If Tumon Bay is Guam’s Waikiki, then Boat Basin is the local version of Ala
Moana Bowls. A rippable left that breaks into a broad pass/channel fronting Agana boat harbor, the
wave begins to bowl at around 4 foot and can produce epic barrels when conditions are right. Just
watch out for the locals.
Boat Basin Right: Across the channel from Boat Basin Left, this wave is shallower and
slabbier, and popular with body boarders—which is most of the local surf population.
Mugandas: This long righthand reef point unfortunately now suffers from restricted access
due to the fact that it’s on a military base. If you have a friend who can get you on, you are stoked.
Rick’s Reef: Located below the Sheraton Hotel, this righthand reef point is one of the more
popular spots with tourists due to easy access and the fact that it isn’t as heavy or localized as
many other spots.
Meritzo: A soft right and heavier inside left that requires a large swell to break, Meritzo
requires a bit of a drive and is typically a bit less crowded than some other spots. Like everywhere
else though, this wave is pretty localized.
The Water: Water quality can suffer a bit in urban areas, but is pretty clean along most of the
coastline. Water temps range from 81 to 84 F (27 to 29 C).
The Season: Typhoon swells are relatively consistent from July through September, and north
swell from lows off the coast of Japan come between October and March, although Guam’s far
western location means these swells are somewhat inconsistent and typically short-lived.
The Vibe: Gnarly. Guam is widely considered to be the most localized region on the planet—it
makes places like Hawaii and the Canary Islands seem all warm and fuzzy. There are enough local
surfers to bring crowd tensions, but few enough that everyone knows everyone else—and more
importantly, knows if you don’t belong. Most locals are big and surly, with a penchant for mixed
martial arts and bodyboarding. That being said, there are good people everywhere, and some
locals can be very friendly. In general, come alone, don’t bring a camera, keep your head in and
tread more softly than you normally would at a spot known for localism.
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Things To Do: Shopping seems to be the island pastime here—at least for the throngs of visitors.
Barbecuing is also popular. Otherwise, there is the normal range of cliché tourist activities
available, such as land and water tours, scuba diving, jet skiing and parasailing.
Where To Stay: Guam is a veritable tourist trap, which means there are tons of hotels, but that
none of them are cheap. The Days Inn near the airport is the cheapest you’ll find at around
$65/night. For a ritzier, high-class experience, try any of the big name hotels along the Tumon Bay
strip. Guam has a good bus system and numerous car rental companies, so getting around is quite
easy.
What To Bring: A shortboard and a step-up if the forecast looks good. US dollars—lots of them.
At least one set of nice clothes for a night on the town. Gifts for appeasing local surfers and bribing
them not to kill you.
Getting There: United Airlines flies to Guam from Cairns, Hong Kong, Tokyo, Hawaii, Manila,
Saipan, Palau and the Federated States of Micronesia. Other routes become available from time to
time, but most visitors route through one of these airports. Guam is considered part of the US, so
US immigration/visa policies apply here. Airport code: GUM.
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Marshall Islands
Only brought into the public eye in the past few years, the Marshall Islands have been surfed for
decades, albeit sporadically and in a limited fashion. Now, with Martin Daly running both a land
camp and one of his Indies Trader boats in the region, it is much easier to access the excellent
waves this collection of atolls has on offer—but you’ll pay out the nose for the experience. With
your own sailboat, the Marshalls are still wide open to exploration and discovery.
The Surf: All surfing in this area is over sharp, shallow coral reef that is very much alive. The best
waves break into passes, which are numerous on most atolls. Wind can be a problem, as the
Marshalls lie right in the middle of the trade wind belt, but with swell from both the north and
south there is nearly always somewhere going off—it’s access that is the main problem in this
intermediate to advanced surf destination.
The Bridge: The first wave to be surfed consistently in the Marshalls, The Bridge is a slabby
righthander that breaks into a well-trafficked channel on Majuro, the world’s narrowest capital.
Although this wave is a top-to-bottom barrel at head high, it can’t handle much larger than that.
Dalap: Located in front of the Seventh Day Adventist school on Majuro, this bend in the reef
produces a quality left on a north swell.
Arno: A well-known atoll a short boat ride from Majuro, Arno has a righthand reef point that
is quite good on a north swell. As an interesting side note, Arno was historically known as the
Marshallese “sex university,” where young women were sent to learn a much-appreciated skillset.
Kwajalein: Kwajalein Atoll is home to a US military missile-tracking base. As such, a large
portion of the atoll is off-limits to non-military personnel. However, rumors circulate about a
number of quality reef pass setups, and a quick look at Google Earth confirms that anyone with a
dependable yacht and some time on their hands could find more than fuselages on this distant
military outpost.
Ailinglaplap: Martin Daly has purchased the rights to at least a portion of this atoll (details
are kept very hush hush) and runs a land camp specializing in surfing, kite surfing, fishing and other
varied aquatic activities. He also occasionally runs exploratory charters on his boat Indies Trader,
with a one-week charter rumored to cost $35,000. While this may seem exorbitant (okay, who are
we kidding? It IS exorbitant!), Ailinglaplap Atoll boasts something like 15 reef passes, so if you have
the money, it might just be worth it.
The Water: The Marshalls are largely undeveloped and house some of the best water clarity on
Earth. Year round temperatures of 84 F (29 C) only serve to make things better.
The Season: Due to its central location in the Pacific Ocean, the Republic of the Marshall Islands
receives swells from both the north and the south, although the northern hemisphere winter is
more pronounced. North swells typically pump from November through March, while south swells
arrive between May and September. Although south swells are typically smaller than those from
the north due to swell decay, the summer months see much lighter trade winds—a pretty fair
trade off.
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The Vibe: The only surfers in the Marshalls are expats, and there are very few of them. No vibes
here—although there are a lot of aggressive reef sharks.
Things To Do: For the history/war/scuba buff, Bikini Atoll is now open to diving excursions. A
veritable graveyard of naval vessels, Bikini was bombed by the US as part of the first atomic test
program in 1946. If you can get your mind past the leftover radiation (which the government
claims is no longer harmful), this lonely atoll houses some of the best wreck diving in the world.
And as if that isn’t enough, it is also rumored to have quality waves! (*Note: Although most people
aren’t aware of the fact, the Bikini atomic tests constitute one of the greatest non-wartime
injustices ever perpetrated by the US. Do some reading to find out more about this atrocity.)
Where To Stay: This area is not set up for backpackers, so cheap accommodation is rare and
hotels are the norm—although you should be able to live with the locals for quite cheap on the
outer atolls. The reality, however, is that if you plan to do any kind of serious surfing here, you will
either need to bring your own yacht or check yourself into the surf camp on Ailinglaplap.
What To Bring: A shortboard and a step-up that is comfortable in the barrel. All the surf
accessories you’ll need—there is nothing available here. Sun protection, snorkel gear and reef
booties if you use them. An unbiased history of the Bikini atomic tests for educational reading. A
sailboat.
Getting There: Majuro is on the United Airlines island hopper between Hawaii and Guam and
receives flights in either direction every other day. Tourist visas available upon arrival. Airport code:
MAJ.
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Micronesia
Micronesia as a geographical region is actually a massive subsection of Oceania made up of
thousands of islands in various island chains and countries. From a political point of view, however,
“Micronesia” typically refers to The Federated States of Micronesia, a country made up of four
major islands and their outlying atolls in the Caroline chain. A relatively new destination that has
received quite a lot of hype in the past decade, the Carolines are somewhat fickle, often windy and
always expensive to travel to, but when conditions are right they produce some of the best waves
in the Pacific. Although once touted as the next Indo, the islands are much more comparable to
Tahiti, with a few bone-crushing reef slabs and occasional examples of reef pass perfection.
The Surf: Heavy, hollow waves breaking over coral reef, often into convenient reef passes. The
waves in Micronesia break over sharp, live reef in shallow water and often slab up out of deep
water, so this destination is best for intermediate and advanced surfers.
P-Pass: The marquee wave in the region, Palikir Pass, located on the country’s capital island
Pohnpei, has been called “the best right in the world” by various magazines and professional
surfers. With two surf camps on the island, this wave can be quite crowded when it’s on.
Main Pass: Another reef pass on Pohnpei, Main Pass is more exposed to the trade winds
than P-Pass and has a tendency to end in dry reef, but it's a solid, heavy wave along the lines of
Sunset Beach in Hawaii.
Kosrae: The smallest island in the FSM, Kosrae has a number of reef pass setups that are on
the heavy, technical side. Surfer numbers are limited by a government-implemented quota/permit
system, and Kosrae Surf Tours is the go-to outfit for anything surf-related on the island.
Chuuk: Chuuk consists of a major island in the middle of a massive lagoon, with numerous
small outer islands spread along the edge of the barrier reef. Little exploration has been done in
Chuuk, as a yacht is necessary for proper access, but with so many islands and miles of reef, the
state definitely has potential.
Yap: Better known for its stone money and scantily clothed locals, Yap is also holding surf,
and up until a few years ago housed a small surf camp catering to visitors from Japan and the
Philippines. Mysteriously, the camp disappeared from the Internet one day, along with any
evidence that it ever existed. Makes you wonder what they’re trying to hide!
The Water: The FSM is relatively undeveloped and features some of the cleanest water in the
Pacific. Water temps typically average around 80 F (27 C) between the four states. In short, this is
about as good as tropical water gets.
The Season: Although the region receives occasional typhoon swell between July and October,
the primary season stretches from November through March, with Micronesia picking up a lot of
the same swells as Hawaii.
The Vibe: Between the two surf camps on Pohnpei, P-Pass can get very busy when a solid swell is
pumping, with upwards of 40 people in the water. Aside from this spot, the surf in Micronesia is
typically pretty empty.
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Kosrae Surf Tours | View Details
Things To Do: The diving in Micronesia is world-renowned, and Chuuk has over 50 WWII
shipwrecks, making it very popular with the scuba crew. Each island also features remnants from
the Japanese occupation during WWII, and the Nan Madol ruins (on Pohnpei) and stone money
(on Yap) are popular cultural attractions.
Where To Stay: Budget accommodations don’t really exist in Micronesia, so you’ll likely be
staying at a surf camp or arranging independent transport to the surf through one of many pricey
hotels/dive resorts.
What To Bring: Multiple shortboards and step-ups, plus a mini-gun or two—chances are you’ll
be breaking boards if you score swell. Pack a few spare leashes as well, and any other surf
accessories you might need. A helmet can come in handy if it gets solid. Fishing gear or a snorkel
and mask can turn a flat spell into a positive memory, and a pair of tennis shoes will come in handy
if you enjoy hiking. Finally, the local currency is the US dollar and ATM service is spotty, so bring
cash.
Getting There: United Airlines is the only carrier in the region and hubs out of both Honolulu and
Guam. An island hopper between the two hubs alternates direction every day and services most of
the major FSM islands, although Yap is actually on the Guam–Palau route. Tourist visas are
available upon arrival, but those coming from Australia or Asia should be aware that they’ll have to
clear customs in Guam, necessitating a US transit visa. Airport codes: PNI (Pohnpei), KSA (Kosrae),
TKK (Chuuk) and YAP (Yap).
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Rapa Nui (Easter Island)
Located thousands of miles off the Chilean coast, Rapa Nui is geographically one of the most
remote inhabited islands in the world, which means huge swell windows in multiple directions and
unfettered fetch potential. Add to that the fact that the island houses the remnants of one of the
most mysterious and intriguing lost cultures in human history and you have a surf destination that
is as unique as it is isolated.
The Surf: Long interval swells and shallow reefs equal big, heavy, Hawaiian style waves, making
Rapa Nui an advanced to expert destination.
Papa Tangaroa: A heavy barreling peak breaking both ways, this wave is about as gnarly as
they come—and it gets big.
Mataveri: This heavy left point can handle size, involves a heavy paddle out and is said to
resemble G-land when its on—all reasons to check it out if you have the skills and gumption to
handle it.
Papa Hanga Roa: One of Rapa Nui’s more user-friendly waves, this reef peak can offer rides
in both directions but lacks the life threatening heft of Tangaroa.
Motu Hava: Another rippable reef peak that offers both lefts and rights.
Tahai: This heavy, deep-water right is a legitimate big wave spot and provides long rides.
The Water: Clean, cobalt blue and relatively warm, the water surrounding Rapa Nui ranges from
68 to 77 F (20 to 25 C).
The Season: While large south swells are most consistent between May and September, Rapa Nui
also takes north swell, meaning November through February can be good as well.
The Vibe: Rapa Nui is far from crowded, but the locals are still protective of their spots, and
everyone appreciates a bit of respect.
Things To Do: Rapa Nui is world famous for its moai, the large stone heads found all over the
island. Leftover remnants of a lost culture, it is believed the creation of the moai was partially
responsible for the deforestation that eventually led to the decline of the island’s indigenous
society. Noteworthy for both historical and environmental reasons, these stone statues are the
reason most people visit the island.
Where To Stay: There are three main hotels, with the rest of your accommodation options being
the various guesthouses on the island. Prices vary, and can range from $25–150+ per night.
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What To Bring: Big boards with pin tails. Big wave leashes and all the accessories you anticipate
needing. A springsuit (or warmer) during winter. Booties, a helmet and any other heavy wave gear
you can think to bring. A pair of lungs and a bigger pair of balls. A pocket full of cash, as Rapa Nui
can be a bit pricey.
Getting There: LAN Airlines flies into Mataveri International Airport from Lima, Peru, and
Santiago, Chile. Tourist visas are available in Chile upon arrival (either in Santiago or on Rapa Nui if
you are flying in from Lima). Airport code: IPC.
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Samoa
A Samoan right. Photo thanks to Salani Surf Resort. Find out more about staying here.
A Polynesian outpost in the central South Pacific, Samoa is less consistent than other big-name
island nations in the area such as Fiji and Tahiti, but the upside to this is that when it does pump,
it's a lot easier to score waves to yourself. Samoa is actually broken into two countries—Western
Samoa and American Samoa (which is a US territory). Most of the best-known surf spots in the
region are located in Western Samoa, which is serviced by a number of surf camps with allinclusive holiday packages.
The Surf: Somewhat fickle, but definitely heavy when it’s on, Samoa is full of reef breaks and
passes and should be considered an intermediate to advanced destination.
Salani Rights: Samoa’s most famous break, Salani is a heavy righthand barrel that recently
made Surfer Magazine’s list of the world’s top 100 waves.
Boulders: A long left reef/point that can handle size and offers the occasional barrel section.
camp.
Coconuts: This world-class righthand reef barrel is best accessed through Sa’moana surf
Sliding Rock: A left reef break in American Samoa that is somewhat immune to winds that
would blow out other nearby waves.
Matu’u: Matu’u on American Samoa is a powerful righthand reef barrel.
The Water: Clean, beautiful and warm. If a country is judged on the quality of its water, Samoa is
indeed paradise. Surface temps range from 81 to 84 F (27 to 29 C).
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The Season: Samoa is best in south swells, and pumps during the southern hemisphere winter of
May through August. It does pick up north swell between October and March as well.
The Vibe: Nearly all surfing in the area is done by tourists and facilitated through surf camps.
Thus, the vibes reflect the tourists at any given time. Bring a good attitude and do your part to
keep Samoa amazing.
SURF X SAMOA | View Details
SA'MOANA | View Details
Salani Surf Resort | View Details
Things To Do: Snorkel, fish, hike, explore a national park, paddle, kayak and engage in the typical
surf camp downtime activities—table tennis, surf videos, beer drinking, etc.
Where To Stay: It is pretty difficult to surf Samoa without the help of a surf camp—which makes
American Samoa exceedingly difficult to surf, since all the camps are in Western Samoa. It is
possible to do a homestay and hire a local fisherman to take you around in his boat, but this will
take some groundwork and planning ahead.
What To Bring: A shortboard and a solid step-up for bigger swells. Thick leashes, booties if you
are uncomfortable over reef, sun protection and any other surf accessories you might need while
you are there. A fishing pole or spear gun if you like fishing. Lightweight clothing that isn’t too
stifling in the warm climate. A dose of respect for the local culture.
Getting There: Faleolo International Airport is the main gateway into Western Samoa, while Pago
Pago International Airport (also known as Tafuna) services American Samoa. Visas for both
American and Western Samoa are not required for citizens of some countries, and for most others
are available upon arrival. Always research the latest visa requirements before booking a ticket.
Airport codes: APW (Faleolo) and PPG (Pago Pago).
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Tahiti
Virtually everyone that has ever flipped through a surf magazine knows about Teahupoo, but what
many don’t know is that Tahiti has a wide diversity of waves for every level of wave rider. A French
territory, Tahiti is about as far removed as it is possible to be from the posh beaches of Biarritz and
crowded streets of Paris. Still, the largely undeveloped island showcases numerous examples of
French culture, and is one of the few places where you can drink a coconut and snack on a
baguette while watching tropical barrels spin symmetrically into crystal-clear reef passes.
The Surf: Predominantly over coral reef, although there are a number of beach breaks as well—
many of which are popular with beginners. In general, Tahiti should be considered an intermediate
to expert destination.
Teahupoo—Although not everyone’s idea of a perfect wave, the world’s heaviest lefthander
can’t be left off this list. Fun and hollow at 4 foot, mental at 8 foot and death-defying at 15,
Teahupoo is the wave against which all others are measured.
Paparra: A popular, often crowded beach break for those who need a respite from the reef.
Taapuna: A lefthand reef break that has been popular for years, Taapuna can get crowded
but is a classic reef pass wave and quite consistent.
Moorea—Tahiti’s neighbor island, Moorea has numerous reef pass setups, a relaxed vibe
and beautiful beachside resorts—a great place for a surfing honeymoon.
Tuamotus: Another spot that isn’t technically on Tahiti, this nearby island group picks up
north swell in the northern hemisphere summer and has various live-aboard yacht charters
available.
The Water: Tahiti is tropical paradise at its best. Crystal clear blue water ranging from 75 to 86 F
(24 to 30 C) is quite simply as good as it gets.
The Season: Southern hemi swells roll through from March through October (Tahiti’s winter),
making French Polynesia one of the best “summer-time” escapes from northern hemi doldrums.
The Vibe: The Tahitian people are known to be some of the friendliest and most welcoming in the
world. However, lineups get crowded here, so tensions can mount.
Things To Do: This is paradise, so relax! Non-surfing activities include snorkeling and scuba
diving, fishing, paddling, hiking and lounging on the beach.
Where To Stay: Accommodations vary from homestays with local families to surf camps to fivestar resorts.
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What To Bring: A shortboard, several step-ups and at least one mini-gun. After all, you don’t go
to Tahiti to grovel. Bring a bunch of spare leashes, reef booties and a helmet if you are of that
persuasion, tropical wax, first aid supplies and a pair of brass balls. Also, bring a lot of money—
Tahiti is probably the most expensive tropical island destination out there.
Getting There: Faa’a airport sees flights from all over the world, with some of the best airlines
including Air Tahiti Nui and Air New Zealand. Tourist visas not required for many countries. Airport
code: PPT.
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Tonga
“The last true Polynesian culture” is how Tonga likes to bill itself, and although Christianity’s hold
on the country might dispute this claim to some extent, it can’t be denied that there is still a rootsy
feel to the place. Populated by a people as welcoming as they are…well, big!...the Friendly Islands,
as Captain Cook called them, are situated smack dab in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. Copping
swells from both the north and the south, they are an ideal surf getaway no matter what time of
year. Even Duke Kahanamoku traveled here for surf, teaching the King of Tonga to surf and sowing
the seeds for a local surf culture. Today, the country’s 170 islands play host to a burgeoning surf
scene, with ground zero being the Ha’atafu Beach Resort on Tongatapu.
The Surf: Tropical reef breaks are the only thing going here, and although not as notorious or
consistent as nearby Tahiti, the waves are girthy when present. In general, Tonga should be
considered an intermediate to advanced surf destination.
ETs: The best (and best-known) wave in Tonga, ETs is a fickle, perfect righthand barrel similar
to Lance’s Right in the Mentawais. It is located on an island off the coast of Tongatapu, so you’ll
need to be staying at the surf camp or hire a local to boat you out. No matter the cost, if you score
this wave, it will be worth the expense.
The Pass: One of the most consistent waves on the Ha’atafu coast, The Pass has a left with
south swells and a right with north swells—both of which are fun and user-friendly.
The Lighthouse: Another wave on the Ha’atafu stretch of reef, Outside and Inside Lighthouse
are two hollow righthanders separated by a stretch of closed-out reef. Shallow and heavy, these
are two of the more challenging waves in the region, but are definitely worth it.
Kamikaze’s: The name says it all. A heavy, fickle peak that produces 50-meter barrels in both
directions when perfect, this one is for the experts—and even then a helmet and booties are
suggested.
The Outer Islands: Although Tongatapu is the capital and houses the international airport
and only surf camp in the region, it is important to remember that there are 169 other islands in
the country. Vavau is the northernmost island group and has huge surf potential that requires little
more than a small motor boat for access, while the central Ha’apai group is more isolated and will
be best explored on a yacht.
The Water: With water quality as good as it gets and temps ranging between 70 to 82 F (21 to 28
C), Tonga is truly a tropical surfing paradise.
The Season: With swell windows facing north and south, Tonga has two distinct seasons, both of
which can be quite good—although it is important to remember that it is a somewhat fickle
destination. The southerly spots light up between April and August, while the north swell spots
(such as ETs) fire from November through March.
The Vibe: Somewhat of a scene has sprung up around the Ha’atafu area, and rumors circulate
about the surf camp owner and his large, somewhat aggressive surfing family dominating the best
breaks. If you are going independent and doing some exploration, you’ll probably be surfing alone
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and interacting with “the friendly islanders” while on land.
Things To Do: Tonga is the sailing capital of the world—or one of them—which means that if the
swell is down or the wind is wrong for whatever wave you are planning to surf, you’ll still be able to
stay wet kiting, windsurfing or sailing. The snorkeling is also world class, and on Tongatapu the
blowholes are worth a visit.
Where To Stay: Most visiting surfers will end up at Ha’atafu and stay at the surf resort. For those
who are looking to go independent or explore the other island groups, hotels are available and
homestays can be arranged.
What To Bring: A shortboard and a couple of round-pin step-ups. A 2mm wetsuit top will keep
you warm in winter, and you’ll definitely need sun protection year round. Booties and a helmet are
a must if you plan to charge the heaviest waves in the region. Wax and other accessories are hard
to come by, so try to bring your own.
Getting There: The international airport is Fua’amotu, located near the capital Nuku’alofa on
Tongatapu. From there you can catch a rickety old two-prop WWII bomber to Vavau, or rent a
sailboat and head for Ha’apai. Visas available upon arrival. Airport code: TBU.
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Region | South America
South America
Brazil
With an ever-increasing representation on the world tour and an improving reputation in heavy
water, Brazil is quickly becoming about much more than crappy beach breaks, sleek wax jobs and
Reef models in g-strings. The country has an incredibly vibrant culture—complete with Carnaval,
Samba and one of the most fertile, undeveloped regions in the world (the Amazonian basin)—
backed up by a number of world class waves and a population that goes downright batty for
surfing. If waves, culture, attractive locals and an off-the-hook nightlife are your cup of tea, Brazil is
the place to be.
The Surf: Brazil is primarily known for beach breaks, but the country’s massive coastline actually
houses a variety of waves, including reefs and points. For the most part, Brazil is a beginner to
intermediate destination, but a few regions are a bit heavier and qualify in the advanced category.
Rio de Janeiro: The second largest city in Brazil (and its most popular with the surf
population), Rio has a number of beach breaks, a ton of local surfers and the annual Billabong Pro
Rio contest.
Florianopolis: Brazil’s second most popular city, Florianopolis Island has dozens of beaches
and one of the most consistent swell windows in the country.
Fernando de Noronho: This offshore archipelago is a nature preserve that limits tourist
numbers through a permit system—great news for those lucky enough to score the island’s epic
reef barrels relatively empty.
Santa Catarina: This beautiful, well-developed state is relatively safe and mellow, making it a
great place for tourists and visiting surfers.
Sao Paulo: A popular tourist area with all the requisite infrastructure and amenities, this
area has a rugged coastline with a variety of wave types.
The Water: Obviously inner-city areas will be polluted, but elsewhere the water can be downright
crystalline. Brazil is a huge country, so water temps will vary greatly from north to south. Fernando
de Noronho in the north ranges from 79 to 82 F (26 to 28 C), while Florianopolis in the south
ranges from 66 to 79 F (19 to 26 C).
The Season: With a massive coastline facing north, east and south, Brazil gets waves year round.
However, the region is best known for its surf between April and October.
The Vibe: Surfing is huge in Brazil, and Brazilians are renowned for being aggressive in the water,
so in urban areas lineups can be incredibly crowded. However, there are literally hundreds and
perhaps thousands of lineups in the country, so do a bit of searching and you are bound to find
your own private wave park.
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EasyDrop Surf Camp Itacare| View
Details
Things To Do: What isn’t there to do in Brazil? An amazing culture, beautiful people, huge cities,
Carnaval, the Amazon—you could come for a month, not surf a day and still have an epic trip.
Where To Stay: Brazil—and its coastal cities in particular—is pretty well set up for tourists and
backpackers of all budgets. Between resorts, hotels, hostels and B&Bs, you will find a host of
accommodation options available.
What To Bring: A shortboard and a backup. Surf accessories, and a wetsuit if you are heading
south. Dancing shoes, your best party shirt and a pocketful of cash. An English/Portuguese
dictionary.
Getting There: What airport you fly into depends on what region you are planning to surf. Major
international airports include Galeao-Antonio Carlos Jobim in Rio de Janeiro, Guarulhos in Sao
Paulo and Florianopolis-Hercilio Luz in Florianopolis. Visas not required for citizens of most
countries if staying for less than 90 days. Airport codes: GIG (Rio de Janeiro), GRU (Sao Paulo) and
FLN (Florianopolis).
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Northern Chile
Although southern Chile’s lefthand points are legendary amongst goofyfoots, the waves in the
northern half of the country are not as widely known. But that isn’t to say they aren’t just as epic!
In fact, some would argue that the waves north of Santiago are even better than their southern
neighbors. And while this debate may never be settled to the satisfaction of everyone involved,
there is no arguing that the northern waves are heavier—after all, the International Bodyboard
Association wouldn’t schedule three world tour events in a region known for soft, user-friendly
ankle slappers!
The Surf: Slabs predominantly, although there are also a number of big wave bombies, empty
point breaks and softish beachbreaks to round out the collection. Although the points and beaches
may cater to the novice crowd, they aren’t the reason LAN airlines offers free board bag check-in
to the numerous visiting surfers. Anyone that intends to surf northern Chile to its full potential
should be a bona fide expert.
El Gringo: Popular with bodyboarders for decades and featured on the 2007 ASP World Tour
via the Rip Curl Search event, this slab a-frame peak (nicknamed “the Chilean Pipeline”) breaks
straight onto exposed lava rock and scared the crap out of the world’s best surfers—most of whom
have never returned. Consider yourself warned.
Intendencia: A hairball lefthand slab that is unsurfable by all but the best, this wave sees
heavy bodyboard usage but has only been surfed by a handful of pros and hell chargers.
El Bajo: A more recent “discovery,” this big wave slab left is a nightmare to paddle but has
produced numerous tow-in XXL contenders.
El Colegio: A righthand reef barrel breaking in front of the college in Iquique, this wave is
quite popular with the bodyboarding crowd—as are all heavy waves in the region.
The Rest of the Coast: 99% of the known waves in this region break in the three most
populated cities—Arica, Iquique and Antofagasta—which together boast around 50 quality setups.
Makes you wonder what the other 2000 kilometers off northern Chilean coastline is holding.
The Water: Surprisingly warm and pleasantly clean except in a few polluted downtown areas.
Although Chile has a reputation for booties, gloves, hoods and ultra thick neoprene, the north is
actually quite temperate, with water temps ranging from 68 F (20 C) in the summer to 60 F (16 C)
in the winter.
The Season: Northern Chile is one of the most consistent stretches of coastline on the planet,
taking both north and south swells year round. It is extremely rare for the waves to drop below
head high—even in the “offseason.” That having been said, May through September is when the
XXL rides go down.
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The Vibe: There are a lot of bodyboarders in this area—supposedly because no one can afford to
surf since so many boards get broken—and the most popular spots can get pretty unruly. However,
Chileans are some of the most welcoming people in South America, so the vibe isn’t actually too
bad. Plus, the locals party late into the night—every night—so the dawn patrol is almost always
empty.
Things To Do: On the odd chance that it actually goes flat while you are there, or (more likely) if
you get surfed out and need a break from the ocean, Lauca National Park on the border between
Chile and Bolivia provides an incredible experience in the volcano-rich antiplano (high desert).
Where To Stay: Chile is a popular destination for both surfers and backpackers, so there are a
number of hostels available in all of the major cities. However, rates are a bit higher than in
neighboring countries, so expect to pay at least $25 USD per night. The extra expense is worth it,
though—Chile is one of the safest and least corrupt countries in the world, so you shouldn’t have
to worry about getting hassled by beggars or rob by ne’er-do-wells.
What To Bring: Step-ups and miniguns, with lots of backups—don’t be surprised if you break
your entire quiver while you are here. If you are into the big stuff, bring a proper gun for the outer
reef bombies as well. There are a few surf shops in every major city and accessories are available,
but they can be a bit expensive, so bring your own if possible. A 3/2 wetsuit should be sufficient if
you are somewhat thick skinned, and you’ll never need more than a 4/3, even in the dead of
winter. Many people wear booties at the shallowest and gnarliest setups—pros included—so you
might as well throw in a pair of three-mils. The weather and air temperature is quite pleasant along
the coast, but if you head to the mountains you’ll need serious insulation, as it gets downright
freezing at 5000 meters.
Getting There: Arica, Iquique and Antofagasta all have international airports and field flights
from both Lima and Santiago (typically via a connecting airport), as well as a few other major South
American destinations. To save a bit of coin you can also take a bus down from Lima or up from
Santiago (around 20 to 30 hours in either direction). Visas are available upon arrival, but note that
anyone flying into Santiago from overseas will have to pay a reciprocity tax of around $170. (Entry
through other ports avoids this fee, so plan accordingly.) Airport codes: SCL (Santiago), ANF
(Antofagasta), IQQ (Iquique) and ARI (Arica).
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Northern Peru
Peru the land of endless lefts. Photo thanks to Lobitos Surf Camp. Find out more about staying here.
For the screw-footed small wave aficionado, there aren’t many places that can top Northern Peru.
The land of the Inca is also the land of endless lefts, and between good wind and consistent yearround swell the dusty coast north of Lima is the stuff of goofy-footed dreams. But don’t limit
yourself to surfing! Peru is also one of the most culturally rich places on the planet, in addition to
being one of the world’s most climactically diverse political regions. As far as cost, convenience,
culture and consistency go, this might be the most user-friendly surf destination on the planet.
The Surf: Northern Peru is known for long, perfect left points that typically break over sand or
rock, but there are just as many barreling setups to be had as there are rippable walls. Still, the
waves in this region are generally in the intermediate range. If righthanders or death slabs are your
thing, you’re looking in the wrong place.
Chicama: The “world’s longest wave” lights up whenever there is a solid south swell, and can
peel for over a kilometer. Although it’s rare to get all the sections to line up, this brown water
beauty is still a phenomenon that has to be experienced to be believed.
Lobitos: Perhaps the most consistently high-quality wave in Northern Peru, Lobitos is a
rippable, multi-section left that can also offer up barrels. There are a number of other quality
waves within walking distance as well, making this the most popular area in the region.
Cabo Blanco: Northern Peru’s premier summer-time spot, Cabo Blanco is a slabby lefthand
barrel that picks up north swell and hosts an annual local barrel-riding contest.
Pacasmayo: Chicama’s lesser-known and lesser-surfed sister, Pacasmayo is another endless,
perfect left point that is actually hollower than Chicama, although more wind-exposed as well.
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Everywhere Else—Although Peru’s left points garner all of the public attention, the truth is
that they are only the tip of the iceberg. With thousands of kilometers between Lima and the
northern border and only a tiny fraction of this coastline surfed with any kind of consistency,
perhaps the best thing you can do is NOT go to the marquee spots. After all, there isn’t much
better than discovering your own slice of paradise.
The Water: The water can range from filthy to crystal clear, depending on how much
development has occurred on shore—another reason to search out the less-developed and lesssurfed beach breaks, reefs and points littering the coast. Water temps in the Chicama region range
from 64 to 75 F (18 to 24 C) depending on season, so a 3/2 wetsuit will keep you covered during
winter, whereas the breaks in the far north such as Lobitos and Mancora see temps ranging from
66 to 77 F (19 to 25 C) and are often surfable in boardshorts.
The Season: The best thing about Peru is that it picks up swell from basically every direction, so
there are typically waves year round—although different spots light up under different swell
directions. South swell spots are best between May and August, whereas breaks picking up north
swell are best between November and February.
The Vibe: The local vibe is pretty mellow, considering how good the waves are. Spots can be
crowded with traveling Brazilians, but the locals are cool. If you can surf and are respectful, you
shouldn’t have any trouble in the water. On land it’s a different story, however. Petty crime and
thievery are common, and both assault and rape have been known to go down on occasion, so
watch your back, your belongings and your girl.
Lobitos Surf Natural| View Details
Things To Do: Peru may have more to offer in the way of non-aquatic activities than any other
destination frequented by surfers. Cuzco is a gateway back into the time of the Inca and a good
hub from which to check out Machu Pichu and the Sacred Valley. The Andes are a great attraction
as well, appealing to the trekking/backpacking crew, and Iquitos rests in the middle of the Amazon
river system. Rest assured that, in the unlikely event that the surf goes flat, you won’t be bored.
Where To Stay: Fairly priced hostels abound, especially in tourist areas (which include all the
major surf hubs). You should have no problem finding cheap accommodation upon arrival, but can
also pre-book online if you are more comfortable doing so.
What To Bring: Your favorite board in long, rippable left points and a step-up for bigger days at
the hollower breaks. A 3/2 wetsuit and boardshorts. Hiking boots and cold-weather gear for the
mountains, hot-weather gear for the Amazonian jungles. Finally, a copy of Lonely Planet’s Guide to
Peru will come in handy if you plan to see more than just the lineup.
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Getting There: Lima is a major international airport. From Lima, you can either take a bus north
or fly on one of the local airlines. Peruvian Airlines has a dodgy reputation and can be difficult to
book online, but tickets are very cheap and the airline is actually quite comfortable and userfriendly once you are on board. Tacna and LAN are nicer but more expensive, and both charge an
extra “tourist fee” on top of their normal prices (roughly $175). Tourist visas are available upon
arrival. Airport code: LIM.
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Southern Chile
If ever there was proof that God is a goofy foot, Southern Chile is it. Endless sand-bottom points
peel seemingly forever in front of rugged, beautiful backdrops that you have to see to believe.
Some points are rippable, others are top to bottom barrels…and then there is Punta Lobos, one of
the best left points in the world at six foot and one of the best big wave spots in the world at 30.
Set in wine country, with a friendly population and a relaxed backpacker feel, this is one of the
most enjoyable cold-water surf destinations going. (*For the sake of this guide, “Southern Chile”
refers to everything south of Santiago.)
The Surf: Left points as far as the eye can see, typically breaking over a combination of sand and
rocks. Southern Chile has something for everyone, with waves that rank beginners can learn on
and others that only the world’s heaviest hell chargers would want anything to do with.
Punta Lobos: One of the best left points in the world, this wave is good from 2 foot to 40
and hosts a Big Wave World Tour contest each year.
Puertocillo: A sandy left point that is somewhat difficult to access (it is on private property),
but that is one of the best and longest barrels in the region.
Pichilemu: A long, soft left point in the town of Pichilemu, this wave caters more to the
beginner crew, or those looking for a mellow, cruisy ride.
Infiernillo: Yet another epic lefthand point, Infiernillo is hollower than Pichilemu and Punta
Lobos, and often less crowded too!
Piedra de la Iglesia: A long left point (surprise!) in the far south of the country that is often
uncrowded.
The Water: Development is wreaking havoc on the local water quality, especially around pulp
mills and other industrial factories, which typically have the money and power to disregard
environmental restrictions. In isolated country areas, however, the water is pristine. And did we
mention cold? Oh yes, it’s chilly in Southern Chile. The Pichilemu region ranges seasonally from 55
to 63 F (13 to 17 C), and it only gets colder the further south you go.
The Season: Chile is one of the most consistent stretches of coast in the world, with around 300
days of swell per year. In other words, there isn’t really an off-season. That being said, large souths
are most common in winter (between May and August), but inclement weather and adverse wind
conditions can also be common the further into winter you go.
The Vibe: While the breaks way south are pretty uncrowded (and often empty), the Pichilemu
region has a well-developed surf scene and crowd pressures can be a problem. That having been
said, the Chilean people are some of the friendliest and most welcoming in the world, so as long as
you come with respect and a good attitude, you shouldn’t have any problems.
Things To Do: If wine is your thing, you’ll enjoy the wineries and vineyards in the region. There is
epic skiing and snowboarding only a few hours away, and if you are into trekking/camping/rock
climbing or any other form of outdoor adventure, Patagonia is to your south.
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Where To Stay: Pichilemu is a town set up for backpackers and surfers, so you will have no
problem finding hostels and surf camps at fair rates. Farther south, you would be wise to take a
tent.
Surf Camps:
Rompiente Andina Chile – Enjoy epic surf sessions in the south of Chile - Find on Surf Sleep Travel
Address: VIII Región del Bío Bío
What To Bring: A shortboard and step-up, and a rhino chaser if you are coming for Punta Lobos.
Thick rubber—a 4/3 with booties, gloves and a hood is a minimum, and in winter you’ll probably
want more. Cold weather gear for on land would be good as well. Bring a bit of cash too—although
Chile isn’t the most expensive country you’ll ever visit, it isn’t the cheapest either.
Getting There: Comodoro Arturo Merino Benitez International Airport in Santiago is the main
gateway into Chile. From there, you’ll be looking at a road trip that could range from five hours (to
Pichilemu) to 20 or more, depending on how far south you want to go. Visa’s are available upon
arrival, but be aware that citizens of many countries will have to pay a “reciprocity tax” when they
arrive in Santiago. Airport code: SCL.
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Southern Peru
While Northern Peru is known for its endless lefts fronting dry, dusty deserts, the surf in Southern
Peru is of a different flavor, with the beachside desert being the only common denominator.
Although Lima isn’t technically in the far south, the capital city and nearby Punta Hermosa have
the highest density of surf spots in the country and are generally referred to as “southern surf
spots.” There is a lot of history in this area, from the early Club Waikiki and its collection of beach
boys to the 1965 world championships held in Punta Hermosa. More recently, local girl Sofia
Mulanovich won the women’s world title in 2004 and Pico Alto has gained a reputation as one of
the world’s best big-wave spots, with a local event featuring on the Big Wave World Tour.
The Surf: Mostly soft/average rocky points and reefs with perpetual fog and light onshore winds.
This area is more quantity than quality—unless you are a beginner to low intermediate surfer, for
whom the waves would be perfect. Of course, the “average, soft, beginner to intermediate thing”
gets thrown out the window if you are coming to surf Pico Alto.
Punta Roca: Widely considered to be one of the better waves in Punta Hermosa, Punta Roca
is just what its name suggests—a rocky righthand point that can run for around 100 meters and
ranges from playful to rippable.
La Isla: Smack dab in the middle of Punta Hermosa and one of the first waves to be surfed in
the region, La Isla is a consistent right reef that breaks in pretty deep water and typically has a
crowd.
Kon Tiki: The original big-wave spot in Punta Hermosa, Kon Tiki has taken a back seat to its
bigger, more famous brother Pico Alto, but still packs a punch for those looking to charge waves in
the double to triple overhead range.
Waikiki: A beach in the Miraflores district of Lima that emulates the Hawaiian landmark of
the same name, Waikiki was one of the first places surfed in Peru and is home to the infamous
Club Waikiki. Although this isn’t the best wave you’ll ever surf (by a long shot), it is worth it for the
historical value.
Pico Alto: One of South America’s best big wave spots, Pico Alto (literally “tall peak”) breaks
a half mile out to sea over a deep-water rock reef. Although it is a peak and the lefts are definitely
rideable, the right is the real prize, handling waves of over 40 foot (on the face) and providing
some of the longest big wave paddle-in rides in the world.
The Water: Cool but not cold, the water in the Punta Hermosa region ranges from 57 to 68 F (14
to 20 C), and although dark and dingy isn’t exactly dirty. In general, a good 3/2 wetsuit will cover
you for winter, and many people can be seen trunking it in summer.
The Season: The consistent big wave season stretches from April through September, although
Peru picks up waves year round from both the north and the south.
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The Vibe: Lots of local surfers in Lima and lots of visiting Brazilians in Punta Hermosa, but the
lineups are surprisingly mellow. On land, it's best to watch your back—Peru is notorious for petty
theft and harassment.
Things To Do: Peru may have more to offer in the way of non-aquatic activities than any other
destination frequented by surfers. Cuzco is a gateway back into the time of the Inca, and is a good
hub from which to check out Machu Pichu and the Sacred Valley. The Andes are a great attraction
as well, appealing to the trekking/backpacking crew, and Iquitos rests in the middle of the Amazon
river system. Rest assured that, in the unlikely event that the surf goes flat, you won’t be bored.
Surf Schools:
My Surf Camp Peru – Cultural tours, surf lesson, biking, hiking, Spanish lesson and much more. Address: Manzana R Lote 24 La Planicie Punta Hermosa-Lima- Peru
Where To Stay: Fairly priced hostels abound, especially in tourist areas (which include all the
major surf hubs). You should have no problem finding cheap accommodation upon arrival, but can
also pre-book online if you are more comfortable doing so.
What To Bring: A wide, stubby shortboard or hybrid, plus a gun (locals ride 9’0+) if you plan to
charge Kon Tiki or Pico Alto. A 3/2 wetsuit and boardshorts. Hiking boots and cold-weather gear for
the mountains, hot-weather gear for the Amazonian jungles. Finally, a copy of Lonely Planet’s
Guide to Peru will come in handy if you plan to see more than just the lineup.
Getting There: Lima is a major international airport. From Lima you can catch a taxi for the 45minute drive to Punta Hermosa. For in-country flights, Peruvian Airlines has a dodgy reputation
and can be difficult to book online, but tickets are very cheap and the airline is actually quite
comfortable and user-friendly once you are on board. Tacna and LAN are nicer but more expensive,
and both charge an extra “tourist fee” on top of their normal prices (roughly $175). Tourist visas
are available upon arrival. Airport code: LIM.
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Region | UNITed States
UNITed States
Alaska
“Seward’s Folly.” “The Last Frontier.” Alaska. Whatever you call it, the place evokes feelings of
respect and awe—and rightly so. This is untamed land, wilderness in the truest sense of the word,
a place populated by shaggy outdoorsmen and semi-suicidal fisherpeople. It is rugged, cold,
unpredictable and immense—which is exactly why it is worth a visit.
The Surf: Although not the best destination if you are looking to score guaranteed perfection,
Alaska does have waves—beach breaks, points and glacial river mouths that get pummeled by
consistently ferocious storms and accompanying short interval swells. The trick is to know the little
nooks and crannies that can handle the conditions and turn the chaos into something beautiful.
Although no bona fide heavy water spots have been discovered (yet), Alaska earns an expert-only
classification on the merits of its weather and inaccessibility alone.
Yakutat: A region rather than a single wave, Yakutat is on the west-facing side of the Gulf of
Alaska, and with numerous car-accessible setups is probably the easiest place in the state to score
waves.
Kodiak Island: Known about for years but only recently explored with any kind of
consistency, Kodiak has a number of mapped setups and is probably one of the most hardcore surf
trips in existence.
Homer to Seward Coastline: The MV Milo and her crew are currently exploring the eastfacing side of the Gulf and base themselves out of these two picturesque harbors.
City Beach (Adak): A series of beach break peaks in the town of Adak, this is one of the few
easily accessible surf spots in Alaska.
Turnagain Arm: Although it’s located 200 miles inland, Turnagain Arm’s 30-foot tidal shifts
produce one of the world’s few rideable tidal bores, which can be surfed in excess of two miles.
The Water: If you ever need your faith restored in the purity and strength of nature, go to Alaska.
The only water “pollutant” is naturally occurring glacial silt, which gives the lineup an eerie electric
blue color. Water temps get up to around 50 F (10 C) in late summer, but drop to near freezing in
the dead of winter, when only the hardest of the hardcore brave waves covered in an inch of briny
slush.
The Season: For good weather, relatively warm water and a chance at swell, come in late
summer and early fall (August through November). Winter has tons of swell, but it comes with
deadly storms and hypothermic waters. Late spring and summer are typically flat.
The Vibe: If you run across another surfer, they’ll be more likely to hug you than to vibe you.
These have to be the most surf-stoked people on the planet—otherwise they probably wouldn’t
even bother suiting up.
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Things To Do: Even if you don’t score a single day of good surf, your trip will still be worth it.
Alaska is a naturalist’s dreamland, with untouched forests, massive glaciers and a multitude of
wildlife to observe, including bears on the beach, whales in the lineup and puffins flying overhead.
And if grueling adventure and a pocketful of cash are your thing, consider signing on with a fishing
trawler or planting trees for a summer.
Where To Stay: Small hotels and hostels are available in the various coastal towns, but if you
really want to experience Alaska, your best bet is to visit someone with local knowledge. Scott
Dickerson and Mike McCune at SurfAlaska.net are at the vanguard of Alaskan surf exploration and
can arrange all the specifics of your trip.
What To Bring: A board with some volume, as the waves tend to be somewhat soft. A 4/3
wetsuit with a hood, plus booties and gloves—and that's if you come in the warm season. In
winter, you’ll need the warmest wetsuit on the market—something around the 6mm range. Lots of
warm clothing and a good pair of mud boots. Patience and a sense of adventure.
Getting There: Anchorage is your gateway to the east-facing shores, while Juneau is the main
airport if you want to hit the Yakutat area. For the ultimate road trip, consider driving up through
the Pacific Northwest region of the US and Canada. US visa rules apply. Airport codes: ANC
(Anchorage) and JNU (Juneau).
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United states West Coast
Northern California
Although they share the same governor, Northern and Southern California might as well be two
separate states—if not completely different countries. While water temps in So Cal are relatively
warm and the waves mellow and user-friendly, up north its cold, rugged and sharky. And while
seemingly every other surfer you meet down south has stickered-up boards and a semi-pro
contract, Northern California is known for white boards and black wetsuits—preferably with brand
logo inked out. Finally, while in So Cal expensive real estate fronts a bevy of lineups crowded to the
point of congestion, large portions of the Northern California are completely undeveloped, and
dozens of known breaks go unsurfed on any given day.
Nor Cal is the land of the surfer’s surfer, where the beards are thick and the wetsuits thicker. It is a
place where secrets are hoarded with miser-like ferocity and loose lips are bloodied without mercy.
Frigid cold and inclement weather keep crowds to a minimum, but consistent, consequential swell
and mythical, unnamed jewels keep the loyal coming back, session after session, year after year,
gloves, hoods and all.
(Note: It is a common misconception that everything north of Santa Barbara constitutes Northern
California. In fact, San Francisco is the approximate center of the California coast, and as such could
technically be considered part of Central California (a region that is even more closely guarded
than Northern California, if such a thing is possible). For the sake of this guide, however, “Northern
California” will refer to the coastline stretching from the Oregon border south to Santa Cruz.)
The Surf: Like the coastline, the waves in Northern California are rugged and grandiose—not to
mention fickle, making this an intermediate to advanced destination.
Ocean Beach: A 3.5-mile stretch of ever-changing sandbars that can handle frighteningly
large swell.
Steamer Lane: A famous (and often crowded) righthand point in Santa Cruz.
Pleasure Point: Yet another righthand point in Santa Cruz.
Mavericks: This deep-water reef peak is considered by many to be the heaviest big wave
spot in the world.
Fort Point: A highly localized but picturesque lefthander breaking under the Golden Gate
Bridge.
The Water: Cold and dark is the nature of the beast up here, although the water is surprisingly
clean, at least as far as pollutants go. Temps hover around 50 F (10 C), so a 4/3 wetsuit is the
minimum, and many opt for a 5/4/3 with booties, gloves and a hood.
The Season: September through November is typically best for winds, although the real meat of
the winter swells come between December and March. April through August typically features
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Region | United states West Coast
small, short interval storm swell and brutal onshore winds.
The Vibe: With the exception of Santa Cruz, crowds are typically at a minimum—and the locals
like it that way. Show up alone, keep your mouth shut and don’t pull back—if you can manage to
do this, you’ll get both waves and respect. On the other hand, if you bring a posse, a photographer
and an attitude, you can expect trouble.
Things To Do: For food, culture and the arts, it’s pretty hard to beat the City by the Bay. To get
away from it all, head north to Sequoia National Park, or pack a tent and some climbing gear into
Yosemite.
Where To Stay: If you are in San Francisco, you’ll be surfing OB, and staying within walking
distance will save on pricey parking fees. In Santa Cruz, where you stay depends on where you
intend to surf, but moderately priced hotels abound. Everywhere else, you’ll be staying with a local
host or camping.
Accommodation
Twin Palms B&B - 2 blocks from Pleasure Point World Class Surfing location in Santa Cruz CA USA. Find on Surf Sleep Travel
Address: 230 30th Avenue Santa Cruz
What To Bring: A big wave gun if you are coming for Mavs or OB. Otherwise, add a bit of extra
thickness to your standard shortboard to compensate for the weight of your wetsuit. Speaking of
suits, don’t skimp on the rubber. A 4/3 is the minimum, and booties, gloves and a hood will greatly
extend your water time. It’s cold outside of the water too, so pack fleece, wool, down and a good
rain jacket—especially if you intend to do any camping.
Getting There: San Francisco is a major international airport, and as such is widely accessible
from any number of locations. The drive from LA is around 350 miles and will take you between six
and seven hours. US visa regulations apply for foreign travelers. Airport code: SFO.
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Southern California
Although other regions might lay claim to seasonal epicenter status (think Oahu’s North Shore
from November through January or Bali from May through July), Southern California is where the
surf industry calls home. Magazines, brands, millions of surfers and billions of dollars have all
flocked to this famous stretch of coastline, where top-level pros compete with white-collared
weekend warriors for set waves and image often supersedes skillset when it comes to establishing
street cred—at least for the sad majority that doesn't seem to know the difference. And yet, for all
its sold-out hedonism and slavish idol-worship, the coastline between Santa Barbara and San Diego
still remains the global stereotype of the surf lifestyle. Although the rest of us may dream of
Hawaii, Indo, Fiji or South Africa, as far as the non-surfing world is concerned, wave riding and
Southern California are practically synonymous.
Legend suggests that a group of Hawaiian princes crewing a boat near Santa Barbara may have
been the first to ride waves in Southern California in the late 1800s, but the first confirmed surfing
demonstration was in 1907 by George Freeth, whom Jack London had seen surfing in Waikiki and
memorialized in A Royal Sport: Surfing in Waikiki. Then, in 1912, Duke Kahanamoku stopped
through California on his way to the Olympics in Sweden, and the rest, as they say, is history. From
the beach boy culture of the ’40s and Gidget mania of the late ’50s to the first issue of the world’s
first surf publication (Surfer) in 1960; from the shortboard revolution of the ’70s and OP Pro riots in
1986 to the industry boom in the ’90s and Huntington Beach’s bid for the title of “Surf City, USA” in
2008—when it comes to the commoditization and mainstreaming of surfing and the surfing
lifestyle, Southern California has been and still remains the crazy, messy, unapologetically
grandiose center of it all.
The Surf: Although regional point breaks such as Malibu and Rincon were once considered the
pinnacle of oceanic perfection, Southern California contains a little of everything when it comes to
wave styles and shapes, including beach breaks and rock reefs. In general, this is an intermediate
surf zone.
Malibu: One of the best righthand point breaks in the world, Malibu is as rich in history as it
is crowded.
Rincon: “The Queen of the Coast” lives up to her name nearly every time she breaks,
sculpting righthand point break walls that peel for hundreds of meters.
Blacks: One of Southern California’s best beach breaks, Blacks is on occasion also a big wave
spot, as an offshore canyon focuses energy onto its sandbars.
Lower Trestles: One of the most crowded waves in the world, but for a reason—this right
and left cobblestone point/peak is one of the most high performance waves in existence.
Cortes Bank: Located over 100 miles off the coast, this underwater sea mount can see waves
in excess of 50 feet.
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The Water: LA is a massive, sprawling metropolis of nearly four million people, and a crowd of
that size is bound to produce a lot of pollution. The water can be particularly dirty after rainfall,
especially near river mouths and other areas with heavy run-off, and cities will often close beaches
and post water-quality warnings informing surfers and other ocean-goers of elevated bacteria
levels. Temps can range from 56 to 64 F (13 to 18 C) in Santa Barbara and 59 to 71 F (15 to 22 C) in
San Diego (depending on the season), so it isn’t uncommon to see bikinis and boardshorts in late
August and 4/3 wetsuits with booties a few months later.
The Season: Southern California picks up swell year round, with different regions and spots
thriving under different conditions. South swell magnets such as Newport Beach fire between May
and August, while waves like Rincon prefer the west or northwest swells of winter. Many areas
break on any swell, from straight south to straight north, so there is almost always somewhere to
score a few waves. Winds are typically offshore each morning until around 10:30 a.m., with early
summer occasionally suffering from a consistent eddy (onshore) flow, and early fall often enjoying
non-stop Santa Anna winds, which can result in all-day offshores.
The Vibe: In Southern California there is crowded and there is really crowded—and the difference
between the two usually depends on where you are surfing, when you are surfing, and what the
swell is looking like. Waves like Trestles, Huntington Pier, Malibu and Rincon are some of the most
crowded in the world, but for the intrepid surfer not afraid to get up early, do a little searching and
settle for average beach break, there are still waves to be had.
Things To Do: Southern California is party central, and if you don’t mind plastic smiles topping
plastic bodies bought with plastic credit cards is a great place to mingle with the beautiful people.
For your surf celebrity fix, check out the US Open of Surf at Huntington Beach in July or the World
Tour event at Trestles in September. If you don’t like people and parties and concrete jungle, you
should probably go somewhere else.
Surf Schools:
Learn to Surf and Paddle Board with Heather – Provide you with the best possible introduction to surfing and to
imprint the love of the ocean forever. Address: 1380 N Harbor Dr, Oceanside, California | Phone: 760-729-5482
Surf Ride Surf School – Surf Ride Surf School offers unique all-inclusive Surf Camps, Surf Lessons,and Surf
Coaching. Address: 1909 S. Coast Highway, Oceanside, California | Phone:
Where To Stay: There are a number of sub-regions in Southern California, including Santa
Barbara/Ventura, LA, Orange County and San Diego. Depending on where you choose to locate
yourself, you can find campgrounds, hostels, hotels, motels, apartments, villas and beachfront
palaces. The good news is that the entire coast can be driven in under four hours, which means
that literally hundreds of different surf spots are only a short drive away. But remember, timing is
essential—getting caught in rush hour traffic can blow an entire day.
What To Bring: An entire quiver—shortboard, fish, longboard and mini-gun. Depending on the
swell and where you choose to surf, you could use any or all of these boards in a two-week trip.
Cool water wax, a wetsuit (depending on the season), your fanciest duds for a night on the town
and a pocket full of cash are other requisites if you expect to survive in the City of Angels.
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Getting There: Los Angeles airport may be the most trafficked in existence, and it is possible to
fly there from virtually anywhere in the world. US visa regulations apply to foreign visitors. Airport
code: LAX
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Oregon
Oregon enjoys only a fraction of the attention that its southern neighbor receives—and this is just
fine with those who frequent the area. Plagued by frigid water and problematic winds, Oregon is
all about having the commitment to wait out the down days in order to score those rare moments
of magic. While you may spend more time waiting than surfing, when those moments finally come,
you may just find that there is no surf zone on earth with a more ruggedly beautiful backdrop than
the Pacific Northwest.
The Surf: More than anything, Oregon is known for its left points—although it also has a wide
selection of beach breaks, slab reefs and big wave spots on offer. Due to the extreme weather and
dangerously low water temperatures, this should be considered an intermediate to advanced surf
zone.
Seaside Point: One of the most localized spots on the West Coast—but for a reason. Seaside
Point is an excellent lefthand point with a vicious reputation, so come alone and try to score a few
scraps.
Cannon Beach: Miles of beach break peaks set in a popular tourist town.
Pacific City: Another popular tourist haven with a quirky beach break fronting a unique
natural backdrop.
Nelscott Reef: Oregon’s answer to Waimea Bay or Maverics, Nelscott is a legitimate big wave
righthander that was once thought to be tow-only, but is now paddled by a few hardy chargers.
The Yeti: Possibly heavier than Nelscott Reef—although not nearly as big—this mutant left
slab was uncovered by Greg Long and is said to be somewhere north of California and south of
Washington.
The Water: Clean, cold and full of sea life. Water temps range from 50 to 60 F (10 to 15 C), so
bring thick rubber.
The Season: While winter enjoys non-stop giant surf, it also suffers from non-stop stormy
conditions. Fall (September through November), on the other hand, can see sunny, glassy
conditions coinciding with long interval groundswell—a winning combination no matter the
temperature of the water.
The Vibe: Oregon is a heavy surfing experience, and not only because of the cold, the storms and
the big waves. Seaside is notorious for localism, as are a number of other spots. Outside of these
surf enclaves, you are more likely to surf alone than you are to see someone else in the water.
Things To Do: Portland is a great city with a cool outdoor scene, and now rivals Boulder, CO as
the country’s most popular residence for elite athletes. There is great skiing in Oregon as well, with
popular mountains such as Mt. Bachelor in Bend.
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Where To Stay: Most coastal towns have hotels and B&Bs, but this is a popular tourist area, so
expect to pay top dollar. If you are a rugged outdoorsman or woman, you could always camp—but
expect rain, wind and cold.
What To Bring: A shortboard, a longboard and a big wave gun. Thick rubber—4/3 with hood,
booties and gloves in summer and a 6/5/4 in the dead of winter. Cold weather gear for on land as
well. A sturdy van, as road tripping is a great way to see Oregon and will save you money that
would otherwise be spent on a hotel.
Getting There: While Portland International is the main airport—and only a 1.5-hour drive from
the coast—many visiting surfers road trip up from California. US visa rules apply. Airport code: PDX.
160
United States East Coast
Florida
Florida is a bit of an enigma, because it has one of the most inconsistent swell windows in North
America, yet seems to produce some of the USA’s most talented and hard-charging surfers.
Damien and CJ Hobgood both hail from the Gulf Coast, and are two of the best out at Pipe,
Cloudbreak and Teahupoo (CJ is also a former world champ); the Lopez brothers (Cory and Shea)
were a long-time force on tour, with Cory basically ushering in the Teahupoo era via a single
paddle-in mutant at the 1999 WT contest; and Kelly Slater is of course the greatest competitive
surfer to ever live (by a long shot). Makes you think that there must be something in the water
down there in the Sunshine State, and maybe there is—but typically only in hurricane season!
The Surf: Fickle and inconsistent, Florida’s surf scene is composed mainly of beach breaks—many
of which see swell only a handful of days per year. Around 90% of the time, Florida is a beginner to
intermediate destination, but when powerful hurricane swells push through it becomes an
advanced to expert zone.
Sebastian Inlet: The capital of Florida surfing, this is a series of sandbars, with the star of the
show being First Peak, a wedgy refraction off the jetty that makes for one of Florida’s most
consistently hollow and powerful waves. The media loves this spot, which means the lineup is
often packed.
New Smyrna Beach: One of the most consistent breaks in Florida, New Smyrna’s sandbars
will generally be breaking even when everywhere else goes flat.
South Beach, Miami: Typically a flatwater sun-bather’s destination, every few years or so
South Beach will pick up an ideally angled hurricane swell and produce unique, brown wedging
barrels.
Reef Road: One of the best and most well protected waves in Florida, on its day, this
barreling lefthander can look a lot like Indo.
Juno Pier: This pier in Juno Beach is a bit of a swell magnet, and can hold size better than
most spots in the area.
The Water: Florida suffers from overdevelopment, and the water quality reflects this fact.
Average surface temps range from 72 to 84 F (22 to 29 C).
The Season: Florida needs storm swell, and this means it needs hurricane season—which
typically extends from June through November.
The Vibe: Although some of the more exclusive breaks are known for their local vibes, for the
most part the waves are so fickle and crowded that any aggressive protectionism is simply a waste
of time.
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Region | United States East Coast
Things To Do: Florida is party central for college students and aging retirees alike, so if the surf is
down, you are sure to find some kind of entertainment. Also, the Bahamas and other Caribbean
island nations are only a short flight away.
Surf Schools:
School of Surf w/ Todd Holland – School of surf offers private lessons all year long for any group size or age(6+)
alongside summer camps and specialized clinics and birthdays! Address: 259 Minutemen Causeway Cocoa Beach Florida | Phone: 3214060433
Where To Stay: Hotels, hostels, campsites, your van—it sort of depends where you are located
and what you are planning to surf, but pretty much everything is available.
What To Bring: A fat, thick hybrid shortboard and a step-up if you are chasing a hurricane.
Boardshorts and sun protection. A bit of patience, or an open itinerary to chase swells to the
Caribbean.
Getting There: What airport you fly into depends on where you are planning to base yourself.
Miami and Orlando are two international airports on the Atlantic seaboard, while Tampa and
Pensacola are on the Gulf Coast. The state is full of airports, so your best bet is to figure out where
you’ll be surfing and then pick an airport accordingly. US visa rules apply. Airport codes: MIA
(Miami), MCO (Orlando), TPA (Tampa) and PNS (Pensacola).
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New England
Maine, New Hampshire, Rhode Island, Massachusetts and Connecticut are the US East Coast’s
unheralded surf havens, hiding quietly in the shadow of headlining names like Florida, North
Carolina and New York. But that isn’t to say that the New England region isn’t holding. In fact,
these five states combined have more coastline than just about any other geographical region in
the country, if not the world—coastline littered with nooks and crannies just waiting to be
discovered. Whether you are looking for thumping beach break fronting posh summer homes or
hidden points and reefs in the frozen north, New England has it all. Just be sure to bring a good
wetsuit.
The Surf: Beach breaks, reefs and points ranging from soft to slabby. The only common thread
uniting the diverse waves of New England is the fact that they are all fickle and cold. In general, this
should be considered a beginner to advanced surf destination.
Cape Cod: Essentially a 40-mile sandbar, Cape Cod in northern Massachusetts has a
reputation for unseasonably cold water and some of the heaviest beach break on the East Coast.
Ruggles: Rhode Island’s most popular wave, Ruggles is a right reef that pumps on large
swells and has a reputation as one of the bigger waves in New England.
Fox Hill: A long, quality righthand point break in New Hampshire.
Connecticut: Connecticut is not a wave, it's a state—and one that is largely shadowed by
Long Island. But when swell sneaks in, its numerous beaches can become…well, surfable, if nothing
else.
Maine: Another state, but one with nearly infinite potential. Maine boasts more coastline
than any other continental US state and houses the potential for hundreds of undiscovered waves.
With difficult access and freezing winters, this is a rugged paradise for the hardcore surf explorer.
The Water: New England is a very large area, and much of it is heavily populated, while other
parts are completely undeveloped. What this means for surfers is that water quality can range
drastically, and water temperatures even more so—particularly from summer to winter. Where and
when you go will be a big factor, but in general, expect water temps to range from below 32 F (0 C)
in winter up to the low 70s F (low 20s C) in summer.
The Season: Fall is best, with relatively warm water, good wind and consistent swells (hurricane
season!). Spring can have moments of glory, while winter is extremely cold and stormy—but also
quite consistent, with massive swells at times. Summer is often flat.
The Vibe: Some of the more crowded spots are heavily localized (think Ruggles on a good day),
while other stretches of coast will go months without seeing a surfer. The key to scoring New
England—and scoring it without getting hassled—is to carefully pick where you surf and whom you
befriend.
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Things To Do: Much of New England is quite beautiful and steeped in history, making it a
worthwhile destination regardless of whether or not you surf. In winter, however, you are likely to
spend a lot of time indoors.
Where To Stay: With hotels, hostels, cabins for rent and parks for camping, New England has
something to offer everyone.
What To Bring: A diverse quiver, as the surf in New England can be quite fickle. At the very least,
you’ll want a standard shortboard and some kind of hybrid with a bit of float for the gutless days. It
might be worth bringing a longboard as well, although you could just as easily require a big wave
gun. One thing is for sure—you’ll need a warm wetsuit. As warm as they come for winter, but even
spring and summer can be cold, as some areas never get above the mid-60s.
Getting There: Theodore Francis Green State Airport in Providence is your gateway into Rhode
Island; Manchester-Boston Regional for New Hampshire; Gen. Edward Lawrence Logan in Boston
for Massachusetts; Bradley International for Connecticut; and Portland International for Maine. US
visa rules apply. Airport codes: PVD (Providence), MHT (Manchester), BOS (Boston), BDL (Bradley)
and PWM (Portland).
164
New Jersey
There is more to New Jersey than The Sopranos and Garden State—it is also one of the most
densely populated states in the US, which means crowds on land and crowds in the water. Luckily,
Jersey also has one of the most surf-dense coastlines in the US—at least as far as number of surf
breaks goes. And if the ocean does happen to go flat, there is virtually unlimited entertainment to
be had in the parks and casinos and along the famous boardwalks. If the central East Coast has a
thriving beach culture, it’s in New Jersey.
The Surf: Mostly beach breaks and jetties with the odd point thrown in for good measure. In
general, this is a beginner to advanced surf region.
Trestles: This isn’t San Clemente and you won’t be blowing the tail out at Lowers, but
Jersey’s sandbar version of Trestles is nothing to turn your nose up at. Like it’s Californian
counterpart, Trestles in Jersey has suffered from access problems due to military and government
regulation, but that has never stopped intrepid surfers from scoring epic, empty waves, has it?
Nun’s Beach: Drawing its name from a nearby convent, Nun’s isn’t likely to see nude
sunbathers anytime soon—but at least it has a decent series of beach break peaks.
Manasquan Inlet: One of the better known waves in Jersey—and with the crowds to prove it
—Manasquan is a fun righthander breaking off of a jetty.
Sandy Hook (The Cove): An accidental man-made wave, The Cove is a righthand point that
can be epic on its day, with a number of beach break options in the vicinity to release crowd
pressure.
Anywhere: New Jersey is basically one long stretch of beach break, with dozens of jetties
and break walls conveniently creating peaky sandbars all over the place. Virtually every street, alley
and footpath leads to a “named” break, so go exploring and see where you end up.
The Water: New Jersey has a reputation for dirty water, which is understandable considering the
population and development in the area. The reality, however, is that strict water quality
regulations keep things in control and Jersey isn’t really any more polluted than your average
Southern California beach break. Water temps, on the other hand, are as bad as you’ve heard—at
least in winter. Surface temps range from 37 to 73 F (3 to 23 C), so depending on when you come,
you could get a sunburn or die of hypothermia.
The Season: As with the rest of the East Coast, it’s all about hurricane season in New Jersey, with
September through November seeing good weather and consistent swells in water that isn’t too
cold. Summer (June through August) is warm and somewhat inconsistent, but still surfable, while
spring (March through May) is deceptively cold and less consistent than you’d think. Winter is
downright frigid and practically empty, but the waves pump.
The Vibe: Lots of people equals lots of conflict, so summer and fall can be somewhat chaotic—
but if you keep your wits about you and don’t hassle anyone, you should be fine. In winter you’ll be
begging people to surf with you.
165
Things To Do: Cruise the boardwalk. Throw away your money at the casinos. People-watch on
the beaches. Take a day trip to NYC or Atlantic City. Practice your best Joisy accent—“How you
doin’?”
Where To Stay: Jersey is expensive, so if you can, befriend a local with an empty couch as soon
as possible.
What To Bring: A shortboard and something fun for small/soft days (longboard or fish). Various
rubber suits of different thicknesses, depending on when you are coming and how long you’ll be
staying. Cash for the casinos and parking fees and street vendors and practically everything. A few
gold chains and some hair gel.
Getting There: Newark Liberty International is New Jersey’s main airport, but the state is less
than a day’s drive from practically the entire East Coast. US visa rules apply. Airport code: EWR.
166
New York
The Big Apple was officially introduced to the surf world in 2011 at the Quiksilver Pro New York,
but the Empire State had been surfed for decades before that circus ever came to town. Although
only a small portion of New York state has surfable coastline, Long Island has literally dozens of
quality waves breaking in the shadow of the Empire State Building—a unique surfing backdrop if
there ever was one.
The Surf: Predominantly beach breaks with the odd point thrown in for good measure. In general,
New York should be considered a beginner to intermediate surf zone.
Montauk Point: There are a number of waves available in this area, and variety is always
good when you are in one of the most crowded cities on Earth.
Poles: Long when it’s big, this wave is always pretty soft, but at least the ride lasts for more
than five seconds.
Long Beach: Site of the 2011 Quiksilver Pro, this set of beach break peaks showed the world
how good New York can get on an early autumn hurricane swell.
West End: An inconsistent right wedge breaking off of a jetty, West End is one of the better
spots in the area when it’s on, but can be a bit localized.
Robert Moses: A series of beach breaks in central Long Island with Democrat Point in the
distance, giving you a fair number of options—which can be a lifesaver, depending on what the
swell and crowd is doing.
The Water: Taking into consideration the fact that this is a densely populated and overdeveloped
area, the water isn’t as bad as you’d think. However, your barrels are still more likely to be brown
than they are blue. Water temps vary greatly from summer to winter, with averages ranging from
39 to 73 F (4 to 22 C)—ouch!
The Season: Hurricane season is what you are after, and it technically stretches from June
through November. Autumn is situated smack in the middle of hurricane time and has pleasant
weather and water conditions, while winter sees long interval swells and near-freezing surface
temps. Spring and early summer are pretty lame unless there is an out-of-season hurricane
bearing down on the coast.
The Vibe: As one of the more densely populated stretches of coastline in the US, New York has
way more surfers than it should—particularly considering the consistency and quality of the waves.
That being said, crowds do have their advantages, since a hundred guys in the water makes
localism pretty much irrelevant.
Things To Do: What can’t you do in the Big Apple? With museums, Broadway shows, Times
Square, historical architecture and monumental skyscrapers, New York is the city all others aspire
to. Get out and explore.
167
Where To Stay: The other downside to New York (besides the crowds, inconsistency and cold) is
that it isn’t exactly cheap. You may not be staying at the Waldorf, but you’ll still pay a hefty sum for
comfortable accommodations—although a few hostels do exist if you know where to look (try
hostelworld.com or hostels.com).
What To Bring: A shortboard, a log, a fish—heck, bring whatever you want. Just bear in mind
that when there isn’t hurricane swell slamming the coast, things tend to go pretty quiet and the
waves can be a bit soft. Bring boardshorts if you are coming in summer and the thickest rubber you
can find for winter (6/5/4 wettie plus hood, gloves and booties might not be enough on the coldest
days). Other than that, just bring a pocketful of cash—you can buy pretty much anything you want
in this city.
Getting There: John F. Kennedy International Airport is one of the largest in the country and
lands you right in the middle of all the madness. US visa rules apply. Airport code: JFK.
168
North Carolina
While the rest of the East Coast has the reputation of being cold and urban (with the exception of
Florida, of course), North Carolina conjures up images of brown sandy barrels, countrified beaches
and boardshort-warm water (although winter can actually be horrendously cold). A fickle
destination and one that takes a lot of local knowledge and mobility to score, North Carolina gets
its best surf from hurricanes. While the rest of the East Coast is hunkering down to weather a
brutal storm, it isn’t uncommon to see numerous 4x4s with roof racks speeding towards the Outer
Banks. After tasting the tubes North Carolina has on offer, don’t be surprised if you start dreaming
about about category 3 hurricanes, too!
The Surf: North Carolina is beach break heaven, with some of the best sand-bottom barrels on
the East Coast. Many of these waves are somewhat heavy, and access takes some experience,
making North Carolina an intermediate to advanced surf zone.
Hatteras Lighthouse: The Lighthouse is Hatteras’ signature break and can be quite crowded,
but like most spots in the area it offers up hollow beach break peaks.
Nags Head: The town of Nags Head has a number of fun waves breaking over sand, so pick a
spot and enjoy.
S-turns: The main event in Hatteras, S-Turns consistently churns out below-sea-level tubes
and has the daily crowd to prove it.
Kitty Hawk Pier: A regional landmark and a damn fun series of peaks and sandbars, Kitty
Hawk Pier isn’t what it was pre-Hurricane Isabel, but it still holds a special place in the hearts of the
locals.
Pea Island: Pea Island National Wildlife Refuge has an endless series of sandbars on offer—
the trick is finding the one that is working on any given day.
The Water: Although the barrels in North Carolina are infamous for their dirty brown color, a
general lack of development in the area means that as far as man-made pollutants go, the water
here is pretty clean. Average water temps range from 59 F (15 C) in winter to 81 F (27 C) in
summer.
The Season: Autumn (August through November) is the best time of year to be in the Outer
Banks, but summer (June and July) sees the start of hurricane season and winter (December
through February) also delivers the goods—if you can survive the cold—so either is a viable option.
The Vibe: While the southern portion of the Outer Banks is infamous for the occasional grumpy
vibe and unfortunate act of localism, Kill Devil Hills and Kitty Hawk are known for a much friendlier
population of surfers, and your biggest risk is getting converted by the large number of Bible-toting
groms.
Things To Do: Major portions of the area are wildlife preserves, so there is much of interest for
the avid naturalist. The fishing is great as well. Unfortunately (or not, depending on your point of
view), hurricane dodging is the official local pastime. If you are serious about scoring waves, you’ll
169
be doing some dodging yourself.
Where To Stay: The Outer Banks are a popular tourist and vacation home area, so hotels and
rental homes are available. Things get pretty quiet in winter, but you can always throw down a tent
if you are keen.
Surf Camps:
Hot Wax Surf Camp – 5-star instruction with Hot Wax Surf Camp! - Find on Surf Sleep Travel
Address: 200 Mallard Drive, Emerald Isle | Phone: 252-354-6466
What To Bring: A quiver full of shortboards. A good 4x4 and some local knowledge. Camping and
survival gear if you plan to post up for a while. Fishing gear, binoculars and a guide to the local
wildlife species. A good radio to keep you abreast of hurricane development.
Getting There: Raleigh-Durham is the main international airport in North Carolina (around a 3.5hour drive from the Outer Banks), but Norfolk, Virginia is actually quite a bit closer, so that may be
your best option. US visa rules apply. Airport codes: ORF (Norfolk) and RDU (Raleigh-Durham).
170
Region | Canada
Canada
West Coast
Canada’s main western surf hub, Vancouver Island has seen a boom in popularity over the past ten
years, thanks in large part to continuing progression in the quality and warmth of wetsuits. A
popular destination with backpackers and outdoor enthusiasts, Tofino has a number of surf shops,
surf schools and board rentals, all of which do good business in the warmer summer months. But
winter is when the real Vancouver shows its face, with bigger swells, stormy weather and colder
temperatures making this Canadian island the classic Pacific Northwest surf destination.
The Surf: In and around Tofino you are looking at mostly user-friendly sandbars, but video
evidence is floating around that proves Vancouver Island is hiding a number of high quality reefs
and slabs as well. For the most part, Tofino should be considered a beginner surf zone, while the
rest of Vancouver Island is an advanced to expert zone (due to access issues and the presence of
heavy slabs).
Long Beach: Ten miles of sandbars that typically offer up soft, longboard-friendly peelers.
Wickannish: Popular with the tourists, Wickannish can occasionally produce fun little
sandbar peaks.
Cox Bay: A large, protected expanse of beach with a number of sandbar options, Cox Bay
used to host the Quiksilver/Roxy Surf Jam every summer.
Chesterman Bay: Another long, beautiful beach with a number of fun but not necessarily
world-class sandbar peaks.
Drop Box: A mysto righthand slab that tends to show up every few months in the latest
video offerings from Vancouver Island’s handful of pro surfers, Drop Box was named one of Surfer
Magazine’s 100 best waves in 2011. If you want to surf this wave, you’ll need to make friends with
Pete Devries or the Bruhwiler brothers as soon as you arrive on the island.
The Water: Vancouver Island has a reputation for having frigid water, but the Kuroshio Current
actually keeps temperatures semi-comfortable, with the beautifully clean water in and around
Tofino typically being warmer than Northern California, (especially in summer). Surface temps
range from 46 to 59 F (8 to 15 C).
The Season: Summer is best for beginners, with warmer water, good weather and user-friendly
waves, but the best all around season in Vancouver Island is autumn (September through
November).
The Vibe: Tofino is a laid back little surf village that some say is reminiscent of Santa Cruz in the
’70s. Crowds are increasing as its popularity grows, but for the most part people are stoked and
friendly. Outside of Tofino, your biggest concern will be the bears on shore and sharks in the water.
Things To Do: Tofino is a cruisy backpacker hub with incredible natural beauty and much to offer
the avid outdoorsman.
171
Region | Canada
Surf Schools:
Pacific Surf School – Here’s how we make it easy: year round group, family, & private lessons; all lessons are 3
hours & include all necessary gear; 5:1 student to instructor ratio. Address: 430 Campbell St. Tofino | Phone:
Where To Stay: Typical of destinations popular with the backpacker crowd, Tofino has no
shortage of hostels and budget accommodations.
What To Bring: A shortboard and a longboard in summer and a shortboard and a step-up in fall.
A 4/3mm wetsuit in summer and a 5/4/3 with booties, gloves and a hood in winter. Rain gear and a
good pair of hiking boots. Fishing or hunting gear if these are activities that you enjoy.
Getting There: Victoria International Airport is the main gateway into Vancouver Island, although
you can also take a ferry from Port Angeles, Seattle or Anacortes (all in Washington state). Visas not
required for citizens of many countries. Airport code: YYJ.
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2014 Surf Guide - Daily Surf Videos

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