Natural Ingredients for Skin Care

Natural Ingredients for Skin Care
Published on Nutritional Outlook (http://www.nutritionaloutlook.com)
Natural Ingredients for Skin Care
November 11, 2011 | Beauty [1], Magazine [2]
By Marie Redding [3]
Consumers want beauty products that are both natural and effective. The ingredients industry is
responding.
Consumers may increasingly seek natural ingredients, but they still want beauty products that
deliver results. In response, ingredient suppliers are launching new natural-based ingredients backed
by scientific research showing efficacy.
The Demand for Science-Based Naturals
Market research firm SPINS reports that sales of natural and organic personal care products in the
United States have grown from $783 million to $852 million between March 2010 to February 2011.
(Sales were based on natural and personal care products sold through natural supermarkets,
specialty gourmet stores, conventional food stores, drug stores, and mass merchandisers, exclusive
of Whole Foods and Wal-Mart.)
“The strong sales story points to consumers responding to the gradual evolution of the sector and
increased natural and organic product availability in personal care aisles,” says Mary Ellen Lynch,
director of consumer insights for SPINS LLC.
According to SPINS, consumer demand for efficacy and purity will continue to drive innovation.
“Mainstream manufacturers will continue to add natural and organic ingredients to their products,
while natural manufacturers will look to science for added efficacy,” says Lynch.
Beauty marketers are noticing the demands as well and responding by continuing to develop new
natural product lines.
“Consumers are definitely much more attuned to natural ingredients,” says Jack Surrette of beauty
brand SkinHealth Technology. “They want products that are [gentler]. We hear that feedback all the
time,” he says. SkinHealth Technology is an R&D-based product line sold primarily through
dermatologists. Its formulas are developed by Jeffrey Parks, MD, along with a team of skincare
experts.
Dermatologists are traditionally in favor of using products with proven efficacy, whether or not their
ingredients are natural. But consumer feedback is driving SkinHealth Technology to move toward
using more natural ingredients.
“Sometimes there isn’t always a simple solution…especially when tests conclude that it’s the
ingredient that isn’t natural that works best,” says Surrette.
Luckily, consumers may no longer need to choose between a natural or an effective product because
more brands are marketing products that deliver both, according to Julie Campbell, vice president of
marketing for Astral Health and Beauty, maker of the mineral makeup brand Pur Minerals.
“There are many more effective natural products being developed,” she says. “Natural ingredients
are being processed using better methods, and there is a lot more data and better analytics
surrounding the effectiveness of new ingredients. Formulators have many more options now.”
Kemin’s New Ingredients
As mentioned, many ingredient suppliers are doing their part to meet the demand for new
natural-based ingredients for beauty products.
Kemin Industries (Des Moines, IA) is an ingredient supplier expanding in the beauty market. The
company’s new personal care division was created last January and has been promoting its new
natural ingredients at trade shows this year.
“We’ve seen a lot of interest in our natural ingredients from beauty and personal care product
manufacturers. Companies have shown positive interest and willingness to test our natural
ingredients in their formulations, partly due to their desire to meet the rising consumer demand for
natural products,” says Marsha Bro, principal marketing manager for Kemin’s personal care
business.
“Our promise—‘Natural with Science’—is the foundation for our natural ingredients. Customers and
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Natural Ingredients for Skin Care
Published on Nutritional Outlook (http://www.nutritionaloutlook.com)
consumers want to be assured of consistency, safety, and efficacy of personal care products,” she
adds.
Kemin now offers its trademark FloraGLO lutein for topical use. A natural antioxidant derived from
marigold extract, FloraGLO lutein may provide moisturizing and elasticity benefits to the skin, the
company says. “We’re seeing a lot of interest in FloraGLO lutein for skincare applications such as
after-sun care, creams, and lotions,” Bro adds.
Lutein’s skin benefits have been tested in several studies. A clinical study published in 2007 in Skin
Pharmacology and Physiology (P Palambo et al., vol. 20, no. 4) researched the ability of FloraGLO
lutein to improve skin hydration, skin lipid content, skin elasticity, lipid peroxidation, and
photoprotective activity, both in topical and ingestible forms. According to Kemin, the study
concluded that FloraGLO lutein, topically and/or ingested, had a positive impact on these
parameters.
Kemin’s other new ingredients for beauty and personal care products include Lysofix, a natural
emulsifier extracted from soybeans; MicroCurb, a natural antimicrobial from fermented soy extract;
Rosamox, a natural antioxidant derived from proprietary rosemary extract; and Speramox, a natural
water-soluble antioxidant derived from spearmint leaves using a gentle water extraction process.
Indena’s Proven Results
Indena, an Italy-based supplier in business for over 90 years, is one of the oldest processors of plant
extracts in the world, it says. This year, the company launched new cosmetic ingredients, growing its
personal care portfolio.
“There’s been a lot of interest in the new ingredients we launched at the InCosmetics show last April,
especially surrounding OmegaBlue,” says Guy Langer, founder of Qumulus Group and Indena’s sales
representative in the western United States through national distributor Greentech USA.
OmegaBlue is derived from the oil of bilberry seeds, which are wildcrafted and handpicked. Its
skincare benefits include anti-inflammatory properties and the ability to prevent pathogens and
irritants from getting into the skin, according to Langer. “OmegaBlue was tested in vivo at a 2%
concentration and it completely repaired the skin’s barrier following damage by sodium lauryl sulfate
within 72 hours,” he says. (Sodium lauryl sulfate is a commonly used but harsh surfactant that can
strip the skin’s natural oils. The OmegaBlue test showed that the ingredient improved the skin’s
barrier-repairing properties following irritative damage induced by SLS.)
Indena also offers an ingredient ideal for antiaging skincare products, Siliphos, which can be used as
an alternative to retinoic acid. “It acts similarly to retinol derivatives on the skin by increasing cell
renewal, but without irritation,” says Langer. “Tested at 0.5%, Siliphos accelerated cell renewal and
thickened the epidermis, without triggering inflammatory cytokines or irritation,” he explains.
Another ingredient, Xilogel, a natural hydrating polysaccharide, is already being marketed in beauty
products by a few small beauty companies, Indena says. It is a greater-than-97.5%-pure powdered
extract of tamarind seed (Tamarindus indica).
“Xilogel has extraordinary hydrating properties,” says Langer. He says that it was tested in vivo at
0.5% and hydrated skin by 59% in 30 minutes—outperforming hyaluronic acid in this regard. “It
sustained its moisturizing effects for 60 days by boosting moisture in the skin by 36%. Within 30
days, it improved skin elasticity by nearly 20%, decreased skin roughness by 27%, and increased
skin density by close to 8%, which makes it a multifunctional antiaging ingredient.”
Natural and Nourishing
Three of Croda’s (Edison, NJ) newest ingredient launches are ideal for many types of natural beauty
applications, especially products formulated for sensitive skin.
Phytessence Blue Daisy comes from Globularia alypum, a flower that the company says has
anti-inflammatory properties. Blue Daisy’s active ingredients are mainly iridoide glycosides, including
catalpol, which is a molecule known for its soothing and antioxidant properties. The company says
that the ingredient is perfect for antiaging creams, eye creams for puffiness, and after-sun products.
“It’s been shown to help reduce skin inflammation by reducing the release of two inflammatory
molecules, interleukin 8 (IL-8) and prostaglandin 2 (PGE-2),” explains Victor Low, marketing
executive, botanicals, at Croda.
He says that cell cultures were incubated with Phytessence Blue Daisy and exposed to UVB light.
Measurements were made on the release of IL-8 and PGE-2 and showed that the cells incubated in
Phytessence Blue Daisy released 47% less of both IL-8 and PGE-2 compared to untreated cells. “This
correlates to a reduction in skin inflammation following skin damage,” he says.
Another ingredient, Crodarom Black Quinoa, is ideal for dry haircare products and sensitive skin.
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Natural Ingredients for Skin Care
Published on Nutritional Outlook (http://www.nutritionaloutlook.com)
“Black quinoa is native to the Andes region and is rich in carbohydrates, vitamins, and minerals to
help keep skin looking and feeling healthy,” says Low. The extract derived from black quinoa is
supplied by cooperatives practicing organic, sustainable, and responsible farming methods, he says.
“Quinoa is one of the most nutritious foods available to consumers today,” says Low. Although many
mistakenly assume it’s a grain, quinoa is actually part of the spinach family.
Another ingredient, Phytofoam, has foaming and cleansing properties that can help make a natural
or mild skin or hair cleanser more effective, while providing users with a better sensory experience.
It’s ideal for foaming face cleansers, body washes, and natural shampoos, the firm says.
Phytofoam is made from a synergistic blend of three exotic botanicals that are rich in saponins: the
Skikakai tree (Acacia concinna); fruit from the Desert Date tree (Balanites aegyptiacus); and the
roots of the Gypsophila plant, often used in soap in the Mediterranean.
“Phytofoam was evaluated via the cylinder shake method, and it boosted foam height and improved
foam structure, resulting in a taller, creamier foam formulation,” says Low.
Another supplier, Naturex (Avignon, France), launched Dragon’s blood extract, which can be used as
a revitalizing active for personal care products. Dragon’s blood extract comes from the bark of
Balanites aegyptiacus, and it contains a high content of antioxidant proanthocyanidins, as well as
taspine. These compounds protect the skin and stimulate its fibroblasts, helping to speed wound
healing, according to Naturex. Dragon’s blood sap also helps regenerate the whole tissue, the
supplier says.
Dragon’s blood extract is backed by in vitro and ex vivo studies, which have shown visible skin
improvements, Naturex says. It can be used in beauty products formulated to prevent the signs of
aging or in products that provide skin protectant or rejuvenation benefits.
A Classic
Aloe vera may not sound like a new, exotic ingredient, but it has staying power when it comes to
personal care products. And aloe’s popularity isn’t showing any signs of slowing, according to Jeff
Barrie, Eastern regional sales manager, Aloecorp (Lacey WA). “There has been a tremendous
increase in interest for aloe in ingestible products, such as beverages, but we’re also receiving many
requests for samples from companies launching new topical beauty products.”
Aloe vera has long been used in beauty products, but the first clinical studies demonstrating its skin
benefits were just completed a few years ago, Barrie says. One showed an increase in moisturization
and skin elasticity, and another demonstrated positive effect on increasing the bioavailability of
vitamins C and E. “Aloe is widely recognized and trusted by consumers,” he says. “Like any classic, it
gets better with age,” he jokes.
The beauty industry has come a long way in terms of the way it uses natural ingredients. Barrie
reminisces about the early 1990s when it wasn’t unusual to add a fraction of a percent of a natural
ingredient to a product, just for a marketing claim.
“Those days are long gone,” he says. “The fact that botanical ingredients are being used now as
natural actives has [created] an exciting new market, which will continue to develop—especially
since the benefits of the majority of the plants in the rainforest still have yet to be discovered.”
New Testing Tools
With so much emphasis being placed on testing the efficacy of natural ingredients, it makes sense
that some suppliers are developing improved testing methods. Symrise (Holzminden, Germany) has
partnered with Cutech to develop a new ex vivo human skin model that includes subcutaneous
tissue and hair follicles, instead of just the skin’s outer layers.
This skin model is one of the most comprehensive in existence, according to Symrise. The model is
patented in Europe and allows ingredients and finished products to be tested conclusively for
efficacy, including benefits such as antiaging, skin whitening, and anti-cellulite.
“We are constantly looking for new technologies to advance our development work of active
ingredients for cosmetic products,” stated Dr. Gabriele Vielhaber, senior vice president of Life
Essentials at Symrise, in a press release.
Natural Success
Developing effective natural products that target specific skin issues can be a challenge, but these
brands have had success with certain natural ingredients.
Plants’ Potential
Origins’s Plantscription line is both natural and effective. Global president and general manager Jane
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Natural Ingredients for Skin Care
Published on Nutritional Outlook (http://www.nutritionaloutlook.com)
Lauder has even called it one of the most significant product launches in the history of the Origins
brand.
The Plantscription line launched last March with an antiaging serum. It then created an eye
treatment that launched in October. Plantscription’s key ingredient is sustainably harvested from the
leaves and bark of the Anogeissus tree in Ghana, West Africa. The concentrated compounds
obtained from the tree help stimulate production of natural fibrillin, the skin’s elastic fiber, the brand
says.
In addition, the antiaging serum contains rosemary extract to maintain elastin and Siegesbeckia, a
shrub native to eastern Asia, to maintain collagen. Vitamin C and peptides are also included, to boost
collagen and elastin production.
Plantscription’s eye treatment formula also features ingredients derived from Anogeissus, kombucha
(fermented black tea), blue skullcap (Scutellaria lateriflora), and magnolia, which provide benefits
including boosting collagen; repairing lines and wrinkles; improving crepey lids, saggy skin, and skin
tone; and reducing dark circles.
According to Origins, Plantscription tested well against a prescription retinoic acid product. The
serum worked 88% as well as the retinoid formula on wrinkles, without any of retinoic acid’s side
effects, which can include irritation, burning, redness, dryness, and photosensitivity.
Dr. Lieve Declercq, Origins’s global scientist, plant physiology and molecular biology, discovered the
benefits of Anogeissus while collaborating with scientists at the University of Strasbourg. The team
was searching for new plant extracts that would effectively protect the skin against collagen
degradation.
Flower Power
The key to developing more effective products is to combine ingredients that work synergistically,
according to formulators at dermatologist brand SkinHealth Technology. The brand’s bruise balm,
BruiseCare X8, is made with 92% natural ingredients. It’s a topical treatment for bruising often
generated by other internal health complications, according to Jack Surrette, executive director.
“Bruising is often prevalent among patients with cardio conditions who are taking blood thinners or
other medications,” he explains.
Surrette describes the complexity of creating such natural formulas. “It takes an extensive amount
of research and experimentation to develop our formulas. It must be naturally functional, as well as
stable. Often, it’s the different combinations of ingredients that will make them work better than if
they were used alone,” he says.
SkinHealth Technology also markets a product called BruiseCare Treatment Balm, and its key
ingredient is Arnica montana, at an 8% concentration. Arnica has anti-inflammatory properties that
help the body reabsorb trapped blood and fluid more efficiently, which helps heal bruises, according
to Surrette.
Formulators at SkinHealth found that Arnica montana worked best when combined with the other
key ingredients in its bruise balm, especially a peptide and polysaccharide blend.
“It took seven months to create this formula. We did a short clinical trial and saw some results, but
then reformulated to achieve even better results,” says Surrette. “Our raw material supplier was
helpful by providing insight about what was happening on the skin and how we could achieve better
function with a different combination of complementary ingredients.” In clinical tests, he says, 73%
of patients showed a clear improvement in bruised skin in seven days.
Nerida Joy, who has been called one of the top 15 facialists in the country by Elle and Self
magazines, is another fan of the ingredient Arnica—but for its antiaging benefits.
“I love to work with products that contain Arnica, mulberry extract, and flavonoids because they all
work together to support capillary walls,” says Joy. When capillary walls weaken, which can be
caused by sun damage, poor circulation, aggressive treatments, and aging, they move closer to the
surface of the skin, according to Joy. “They’ll become more noticeable around the nose and cheeks,
which can appear ruddy, while a purplish-gray shadow can appear on the thin skin around the eye
area,” says Joy.
The Nerida Joy skincare line and the new line BeautyMint both contain eye gel products formulated
with Arnica. BeautyMint, launching at the end of October, was developed by Joy in partnership with
celebrity Jessica Simpson and the online retailer/social media company BeachMint.
Formulation Tips
When evaluating ingredients for a new formula, testing can provide a lot of data but Surrette
suggests going beyond an ingredient’s research and consulting with suppliers.
“They have the expertise to advise you on things like timing, because certain ingredients are faster
to show results while others may show impressive improvements over a longer period. The formula’s
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Natural Ingredients for Skin Care
Published on Nutritional Outlook (http://www.nutritionaloutlook.com)
base vehicle or delivery system is also often as important as the special ingredients,” he explains.
“Suppliers will usually facilitate a more holistic approach to formulation.”
Joy says that there’s no substitute for testing different formulas yourself. “I’ve been lucky to have
been able to use different products on clients every day for over 30 years so I’ve been able to see
the benefits that certain ingredients have on the skin firsthand,” she says. Working with a team of
trusted, knowledgeable chemists is also key, and developing a formula involves many discussions,
according to Joy. “The success of any brand will always depend on whether or not you have a good
chemist,” she adds.
Source URL: http://www.nutritionaloutlook.com/articles/natural-ingredients-skin-care
Links:
[1] http://www.nutritionaloutlook.com/beauty
[2] http://www.nutritionaloutlook.com/magazine
[3] http://www.nutritionaloutlook.com/authors/marie-redding
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