White Wines Australia

Transcription

Index
White Wines Italy - Sparkling
Piemonte (Piedmont)
9
White Wines Argentina
Calchaqui Valley
11
Mendoza
12
New South Wales
14
Other
17
South Australia
18
South Eastern Australia
37
Tasmania
38
Victoria
39
Western Australia
48
White Wines Austria
Kamptal
56
Kremstal
57
Other
58
Vienna Region
60
White Wines Chile
Casablanca Valley
61
Central Valley
63
Curico Valley
64
Maipo Valley
65
Maule Valley
66
San Antonio Valley
67
White Wines France
Alsace
68
Bordeaux
71
Bordeaux (Cotes-wines)
72
Bordeaux (Graves)
73
Bourgogne
74
Bourgogne (Bourgogne Aligote)
75
Bourgogne (Chablis)
76
Bourgogne (Cote Chalonnaise)
78
Bourgogne (Cotes de Beaune / communes)
79
Bourgogne (Maconnais)
81
Languedoc-Roussillon
85
Loire
86
Rhone Valley
89
Roussillon
91
Maipo Valley
65
Maule Valley
66
San Antonio Valley
67
White Wines France
Alsace
68
Bordeaux
71
72
Bordeaux (Graves)
73
Bourgogne
74
75
Bourgogne (Chablis)
76
78
79
81
85
Loire
86
Rhone Valley
89
Roussillon
91
Vin de Pays
93
White Wines Germany
Mosel - Saar - Ruwer
96
Nahe
108
Other
110
Rheingau
111
Rheinhessen
112
Rheinpfalz
113
White Wines Greece
Other
114
White Wines Israel
Galilee (Galil)
115
White Wines Italy
Abruzzo (Abruzzi)
116
Campania
117
Friuli - Venezia - Giulia
119
Marche (Marches)
123
Other
129
Piemonte (Piedmont)
130
Puglia (Apulia)
132
Sardegna (Sardinia)
133
Sicilia (Sicily)
135
Toscana (Tuscany)
137
Trentino - Alto Adige
138
Umbria
142
Valle d'Aosta
144
Veneto
145
White Wines Israel
Galilee (Galil)
115
White Wines Italy
Abruzzo (Abruzzi)
116
Campania
117
119
Marche (Marches)
123
Other
129
Piemonte (Piedmont)
130
Puglia (Apulia)
132
Sardegna (Sardinia)
133
Sicilia (Sicily)
135
Toscana (Tuscany)
137
138
Umbria
142
Valle d'Aosta
144
Veneto
145
White Wines New Zealand
North Island
149
South Island
150
White Wines Portugal
Dao
152
Douro
153
Minho
154
White Wines South Africa
Coastal Region
156
Constantia
157
Groenekloof
158
Other
159
Paarl
160
Robertson
161
Stellenbosch
162
White Wines Spain
Catalonia
163
Galicia
164
Rueda and Duero
167
White Wines USA
California
169
Oregon
174
Washington
176
Rose Wines Australia
South Australia
179
Rose Wines France
Languedoc
180
South Australia
179
Rose Wines France
Languedoc
180
Loire
181
Provence
182
Rhone Valley
183
Roussillon
184
Rose Wines Italy
Abruzzo (Abruzzi)
185
Calabria
186
187
Rose Wines South Africa
Stellenbosch
188
Rose Wines Spain
Catalonia
189
Red Wines Argentina
Maipu
190
Mendoza
191
Rio Negro
199
Red Wines Australia
New South Wales
200
Other
202
South Australia
203
234
Tasmania
235
Victoria
236
Western Australia
243
Red Wines Chile
Casablanca Valley
245
Curico Valley
246
Maipo Valley
247
Other
249
Rapel Valley
250
Red Wines France
Bordeaux
253
Bordeaux (Bordeaux Superieur)
256
257
Bordeaux (Graves)
259
Bordeaux (Haut Medoc)
260
Bordeaux (Libournais)
262
Bordeaux (Moulis)
263
Bourgogne
264
Bourgogne (Beaujolais)
265
Maipo Valley
247
Other
249
Rapel Valley
250
Red Wines France
Bordeaux
253
256
257
Bordeaux (Graves)
259
260
262
Bordeaux (Moulis)
263
Bourgogne
264
265
278
Bourgogne (Cotes de Nuits / communes)
279
Corsica
280
Languedoc
281
292
Loire
293
Rhone Valley
298
Roussillon
315
Southwest
318
Vin de Pays
320
Red Wines Greece
Other
324
Red Wines Israel
Galilee (Galil)
325
Red Wines Italy
Abruzzo (Abruzzi)
326
Basilicata
328
Calabria
329
Campania
331
Emilia-Romagna
334
335
Lombardia (Lombardy)
336
Marche (Marches)
337
Molise
340
Piemonte (Piedmont)
342
Puglia (Apulia)
350
Sardegna (Sardinia)
354
Sicilia (Sicily)
356
Toscana (Tuscany)
361
374
Umbria
375
Veneto
379
374
Umbria
375
Veneto
379
Red Wines New Zealand
South Island
383
Red Wines Portugal
Alentejo
384
Dao
385
Douro
386
Ribatejo
390
Red Wines South Africa
Coastal Region
391
Constantia
392
Paarl
393
Stellenbosch
394
Walker Bay
396
Western Cape
397
Red Wines Spain
Aragon
398
Castilla and Leon
402
Castilla La Mancha
407
Catalonia
408
Comunidad Valenciano
413
Murcia
414
Navarra
421
Other
422
Rioja
423
Rueda and Duero
431
Vinos de Madrid
435
Red Wines USA
California
437
Oregon
446
Washington
447
White Wines Australia - Sweet
South Australia
449
White Wines France - Sweet
Alsace
450
Loire
451
White Wines New Zealand - Sweet
South Island
454
White Wines Spain - Sweet
Jerez - Xeres - Sherry
455
White Wines USA - Sweet
Washington
456
White Wines Spain - Sweet
455
White Wines USA - Sweet
Washington
456
Red Wines France - Sweet
Roussillon
457
Red Wines Australia - Port
South Australia
458
Victoria
459
Red Wines USA - Port
Virginia
460
White Wines Spain - Sherry
Indicated prices are excluding VAT & taxes.
461
Piemonte (Piedmont)
Os
Azienda Agricola di Giacomo Bologna Braida | Moscato d'Asti Vigna Senza
Nome
2007
UWS: 90/100
The 2007 Moscato d'Asti Vigna Senza Nome is a gorgeous version of Piedmont's most famous dessert wine. Crisp
green apples, spices and flowers flow from this generous, creamytextured wine. Anticipated maturity: 20082009.
Braida is based in Rocchetta Tanaro, in the province of Asti. Although the property is bestknown for its large
scaled, superripe Barberas, the simpler wines in the range merit close attention as well.
eRobertParker.com © (WA), Antonio Galloni 31 Aug 2008 89/100
Moscato d'Asti. #1; COLORgolden; NOSEbeautiful peaches; apple skin; very pretty & floral; a little soapy;
TASTEthis is one of the best Moscato d'Asti's I've ever had; really clean; while having acidity, still has the beautiful
balanced; extremely well made; tremendous explosion of fruit (beautiful Star fruit); textbook high quality Moscato;
gorgeous baked apple pie; GV91
Wine Lib TV © (WLTV) 19 Aug 2008 91/100
A
La Spinetta | Moscato d'Asti Bricco Quaglia
2009
UWS: 90/100
W_Moscato d'Asti Piedmont. COLORlight golden; NOSEextremely funky; very fresh; great bubbles; PALATE
this is a blend of Ginger Ale and Cream soda; very heavy sugar cane and apple juice for days; this is just delicious;
AG89; GV90
Wine Lib TV © (WLTV) 08 Nov 2010 90/100
The 2009 Moscato d'Asti Bricco Quaglia is simply lovely in this vintage. Clean, minerally notes frame a precise,
beautifully sculpted core of fragrant, varietal fruit. This is a winner from La Spinetta. Anticipated maturity: 2010
2011.
La
Paolo Saracco | Moscato d'Asti
2008
UWS: 90/100
Gambero Rosso © (GR) 20 Nov 2012 2/3
Clean, fragrant, highly aromatic and expressive, varietally correct. Light, sweet, frothy. Quite delicious. Bring on
the afternoon on the sunny patio.
Wine Access © (WACA)
26 Jan 2012
88/100
Bright straw. Musky aromas of grapefruit, floral honey and ripe apple. Enters bright and sweet, with orchard fruit
and ripe citrus flavors brightened by zesty acidity. Finishes with a white pepper nuance.
International Wine Cellar © (IWC), Ian D'Agata 01 Mar 2010 90/100
The 2008 Moscato d'Asti reveals awesome richness and complexity in its expansive layers of white peaches, smoke,
minerals and flowers. Multiple shades of expression continue to emerge as this superb Moscato opens up in the
glass. Anticipated maturity: 20092010. Paolo Saracco is a referencepoint producer for first class Moscato.
Pa
Paolo Saracco | Moscato d'Asti
2009
UWS: 90/100
Saracco's 2009 Moscato d'Asti is like cashmere on the palate in its impossibly fine mousse. Beautifully articulated
varietal aromas and flavors come together, showing exceptional elegance and pedigree. Paolo Saracco is one of
Published
by 90pluswines.com
the referencepoint producers of fine Moscato.
I always
make sure to have at least a few bottles on hand at the9
house.
UWS: 90/100
Saracco's 2009 Moscato d'Asti is like cashmere on the palate in its impossibly fine mousse. Beautifully articulated
varietal aromas and flavors come together, showing exceptional elegance and pedigree. Paolo Saracco is one of
the referencepoint producers of fine Moscato. I always make sure to have at least a few bottles on hand at the
house.
Published by 90pluswines.com
10
Calchaqui Valley
Pa
Bodega Colome | Calchaqui Valley Torrontes
2008
UWS: 91/100
Much better and way more complex than your average Torrontés. The bouquet is flower power, lychee and
tangerine, and overall this is an exotic, driving wine like no other from Argentina. Expect roundness and similarities
to Viognier; it's amplified and impressive.
Wine Enthusiast © (WE) 01 Aug 2009 91/100
11
Mendoza
B
Alfredo Roca | Chardonnay San Rafael
2011
UWS: 90/100
The white wine cuvees are all strong efforts that should be drunk in their first several years of life. The 2011
Chardonnay exhibits attractive notes of apple butter and poached pears along with a surprisingly fat texture.
Cleanly made and pure with outstanding length, and no evidence of oak aging, it overdelivers for its meager price
point. As the following tasting notes demonstrate, the least expensive cuvees Alfredo Roca produces are his
strongest efforts. However, all of these wines represent good value. The Roca family has 280 acres under vine in the
southernmost province of Mendoza, San Rafael, and all of their vineyards are situated over 2,000 feet above sea
level. Interestingly, they have eight acres of Pinot Noir, a grape varietal you rarely see in Argentina. The Bodegas
Alfredo Roca reds include two wines I did not particularly care for. The 2011 Merlot and 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon
were competent, but unexciting. Under the Alfredo Roca Dedicacion label, the wines are slightly more expensive, but
they use more wood in the aging process. The most expensive offerings are produced under the Alfredo Roca Family
Reserve moniker.
eRobertParker.com © (WA), Robert Parker 31 Aug 2012 90/100
Al
Bodega Catena Zapata | Chardonnay Mendoza
2011
UWS: 90/100
A fresh white, displaying crunchy apple, melon and Bosc pear notes backed by light spice, juicy acidity and a solid,
flinty finish. Drink now. NW
Wine Spectator © (WS) 15 Nov 2012 89/100
100% Chardonnay from four vineyard sites ranging in elevation from 940 to 1,450m planted on sandy loam with
varying percentages of round rocks, calcareous deposits and clay. The grapes were harvested by hand with a yield
of 2.53.0 tons/ha. Fermented in a combination of stainlesssteel tanks and French oak barrels and matured in
barrel with bâtonnage. Winemaker Alejandro Vigil. TA 5.4 g/l, pH 3.7, RS 5.4 g/l. Painstakingly correct but a bit
dull at present.
Jancis Robinson © (JR)
B
Bodega Catena Zapata | Mendoza Chardonnay Agrelo Vineyards
04 Oct 2012
16/20
2011
UWS: 90/100
There are notable changes in the approach of the 2011 Catena Chardonnay compared to previous vintages: 40%
malolactic instead of 100%, a move to Mercurey barrels instead of Francois Freres, a reduction from 50% new oak
to 20%. This vintage was also harvested 20 days earlier. It is a blend of three vineyards that are divided into lots at
harvest. It is whole cluster pressed and aged for ten months in French oak. It demonstrates great clarity on the nose
with scents of dried honey, linden, crushed stone and dried white flowers. The palate is wellbalanced with crisp
acidity and is a taut, focused Chardonnay with lively notes of tangerine and quince towards the finish. This is well
crafted and complex for its price point. Drink now2016. There is no need to introduce Catena Zapata. I visited the
winery, which stands like an Egyptian pyramid looking for its sphynx, and spent the entire morning darting from one
room to another tasting the entire portfolio of wines from the family. Naturally, it was an honor to meet Nicolas
Catena himself, who has been instrumental in Argentina's progress over the last three decades (see video). But what
is pleasing is to find such a famous winery refusing to rest upon its laurels and in fact, through the irrepressible
head winemaker Alejandro Vigil, a man who patently contemplates wines 24/7, Catena Zapata are looking forward
and asking themselves questions about the style of wines they produce, what ought to be the next stage of their
evolution, instead of merely replicating previous successes. Nothing exemplifies that more than the premium wines.
Several years ago, it was 100% or even 200% new oak by rote. Nowadays, more consideration towards harmonizing
the level of new oak to the fruit and the character of the wine has meant that it has been dialed down to 60%.
Speaking to Alejandro, he might reduce it even further, but of course, it should depend upon what is best for the
wine. In addition, there has been a revision in their approach to malolactic fermentation, as attested by their
Chardonnays, the length of skin maceration (reduced from 30 to around 22 or 23 days) and more experimentation
with whole cluster ferments and cofermenting with white grape varieties. Anything is possible.
12
31 Oct 2012
eRobertParker.com © (WA), Neal Martin
90/100
room to another tasting the entire portfolio of wines from the family. Naturally, it was an honor to meet Nicolas
Catena himself, who has been instrumental in Argentina's progress over the last three decades (see video). But what
is pleasing is to find such a famous winery refusing to rest upon its laurels and in fact, through the irrepressible
head winemaker Alejandro Vigil, a man who patently contemplates wines 24/7, Catena Zapata are looking forward
and asking themselves questions about the style of wines they produce, what ought to be the next stage of their
evolution, instead of merely replicating previous successes. Nothing exemplifies that more than the premium wines.
Several years ago, it was 100% or even 200% new oak by rote. Nowadays, more consideration towards harmonizing
the level of new oak to the fruit and the character of the wine has meant that it has been dialed down to 60%.
Speaking to Alejandro, he might reduce it even further, but of course, it should depend upon what is best for the
wine. In addition, there has been a revision in their approach to malolactic fermentation, as attested by their
Chardonnays, the length of skin maceration (reduced from 30 to around 22 or 23 days) and more experimentation
with whole cluster ferments and cofermenting with white grape varieties. Anything is possible.
B
Familia Zuccardi | Chardonnay Mendoza Q
31 Oct 2012
90/100
2009
UWS: 90/100
Light gold color; toast, buttered popcorn, spiced apple, pear, excellent depth, some elegance.
eRobertParker.com © (WA), Jay Miller
Fa
Familia Zuccardi | Serie A Torrontes
31 Oct 2010
90/100
2011
UWS: 90/100
The 2011 Zuccardi Serie A Torrontes from Cafayate in Salta, is 50% direct pressed and sees no oak. It has a fresh
grapefruit, nectarine and passion fruit bouquet that is crisp and welldefined. The palate is vibrant on the entry, with
a keen thread of acidity and great focus and poise on the white peachtinged finish. This is one of the best Torrontes
wines I have found. Drink now. Familia Zuccardi were one of the pioneers in terms of pursuing quality when others
were satisfied with quantity and little else. Alberto Zuccardi began planting in Maipu in 1963 and five years later
constructed their winery. Their son, Jose, joined in 1976 and under his direction throughout the 1980s and 1990s,
they made a strategic decision to focus on high quality wines. They currently own 37 hectares in La Consulta, 55
hectares in Vista Flores, 90 hectares in Altamira, 180 hectares in Maipu and 475 hectares in Santa Rosa. There is
an emphasis upon exploring their terroirs at Zuccardi, and Alberto's youngest son, Miguel, was happy to leap into a
few pits to demonstrate the differences between several soil profiles. The wines themselves are impressive, both in
terms of value at the bottom end and quality at the top. As they peel away and separate different terroirs in the
future, they should be able to offer an ever more interesting portfolio.
31 Oct 2012
90/100
13
New South Wales
Fa
Keith Tulloch Wine | Hunter Valley Semillon
2006
UWS: 93/100
Ultraclassic and ultrarefined; the quality now is in the marvellously long finish and aftertaste, which will build on
the midpalate with age. Screwcap.
James Halliday © (JH)
28 Apr 2011
Jeremy Oliver © (JO)
94/100
28 Apr 2011
17/20
(10.5% alcohol) Very pale yellow color. Waxy yellow plum and poached pear aromas, perked up by white flowers
and minerals. Firm and dry, offering classic citrus pith, mineral and honeycomb flavors and refreshingly bitter snap.
Becomes chewier on the finish, which strongly echoes the citrus and mineral qualities. A classic rendition of this
style.
International Wine Cellar © (IWC), Josh Raynolds
K
01 Jul 2008
Keith Tulloch Wine | Hunter Valley Semillon
91/100
2007
UWS: 92/100
A typical expression of Hunter Valley Semillon, with modest alcohol and crisp acids. Struck flint and lime custard
mark the nose, while the flavors suggest the dust of crushed stones and citrus. Drink now2017.
Wine Enthusiast © (WE) 01 Nov 2011 89/100
The 2007 Semillon has evolving straw, lemongrass and waxy lemon aromas with a bit of paraffin and some lime leaf.
Dry, light and very crisp in the mouth, it has good balance and purity with a long, zesty finish. Approachable now, it
should drink well to 2017. Keith Tulloch's family came to Australia from Scotland in 1850. They started producing
wine in the Hunter Valley in 1896. In 1997 Keith Tulloch branched off from the Tulloch winery to form his own
wholly separate operation and label. Opinionated, outspoken, dogmatic: all the greatest winemakers seem to possess
these attributes. Keith Tulloch is certainly not lacking in things to say, possessing admiral vision and strong views
that are convincingly backedup by the high quality results he has been getting in recent years. This is a winery to
watch.
eRobertParker.com © (WA) 31 May 2011 90/100
White wines $20 and up. Recommended and tasted, but no tasting note given.
28 Feb 2009
Decanter © (DC)
90/100
28 Apr 2011
5/5
The inherent complexity of the wine is starting to express itself, with notes of toast, honey and spice joining the
lemony fruit of the bouquet and palate. Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
95/100
Light, tart, a zingy young wine with lime, mint and floral aromas and flavors, showing some length. Needs time to fill
out. Best after 2011. 800 cases made. HS
Wine Spectator © (WS), Harvey Steiman
28 Apr 2011
87/100
Tasted blind for British Airways Very fresh and tart but too young to fly now. Very impressive for the future.
Jancis Robinson © (JR) 19 Mar 2008 17/20
A fine, elegant and traditional lowalcohol expression of Hunter semillon whose dusty, lightly floral expression of
honeydew melon, lime juice and lemon sherbet is long, clean and refreshing. It's taut and lean, with a pleasingly
chalky undercarriage. o17.0/90, YTD 20122015+)
Jeremy Oliver © (JO) 12 Mar 2008 17/20
There's a hint of white peach and lemon curd while overall it gives the neutral impression of a young semillon. The
flavors should broaden as it ages; the relatively soft structure would suggest cellaring six or seven years.
Wine and Spirit Mag © (WSM)
01 Feb 2008
87/100
14
Tasted blind for British Airways Very fresh and tart but too young to fly now. Very impressive for the future.
A fine, elegant and traditional lowalcohol expression of Hunter semillon whose dusty, lightly floral expression of
honeydew melon, lime juice and lemon sherbet is long, clean and refreshing. It's taut and lean, with a pleasingly
chalky undercarriage. o17.0/90, YTD 20122015+)
Jeremy Oliver © (JO) 12 Mar 2008 17/20
There's a hint of white peach and lemon curd while overall it gives the neutral impression of a young semillon. The
flavors should broaden as it ages; the relatively soft structure would suggest cellaring six or seven years.
K
87/100
01 Feb 2008
Mount Pleasant | Sémillon Hunter Valley Elizabeth
2001
UWS: 92/100
A lively and flavoursome but fasterdeveloping Elizabeth whose fresh lemony aromas of sherbet and ripe tropical
fruit have a slightly candied, toasty aspect. Its moderate depth of melon and tobaccoey fruit is finished by a
refreshing cut of citrusy acidity. Lacks its customary depth and character. oLower Hunter Valley, $17 retail,
approx., 16.7/89, drink 20062009)
M
23 Jun 2006
16,700001/20
2003
UWS: 92/100
A toasty, smoky and forward Elizabeth from a hot vintage. Its evolving melon and citrusy aromas are backed by
rather a funky, meaty and reductive quality, while its unusually robust palate has more texture and ripeness than
usual. There's a rich core of sumptuous fruit, plenty of developed complexity and a persistent and tangy finish.
oLower Hunter Valley, $13 retail, approx., 16.7/89, drink 20082011+)
Jeremy Oliver © (JO) 30 Mar 2006 16,700001/20
M
2004
UWS: 94/100
Generous and quite richly textured, this relatively earlymaturing Elizabeth has a buttery, toasty bouquet of lemon
and melonlike fruit backed by nuances of honey and candy. Its fresh, forward and tangy palate of melon and citrus
flavour overlies with suggestions of cloves, nutmeg and bathpowder. It's quite viscous for this style, but does finish
with a clean and refreshing acidity.o17.5/91, YTD 20092012+)
M
03 Apr 2008
17,5/20
2005
UWS: 93/100
A gentle cellaring semillon for the medium term. Its lively bouquet of fresh white flowers, lemon and melon aromas
and dusty nuances of spice, cloves and tobacco leaf precede a juicy, vibrant and even palate whose long expression
of citrusy fruit overlies sherbetlike phenolics. It finishes smooth and gentle with pleasing length, freshness, focus
and refreshing acidity.o17.2/90, YTD 20132017)
Jeremy Oliver © (JO) 05 May 2009 17,200001/20
M
Tulloch | Hunter Valley Semillon
2006
UWS: 94/100
An extra dimension of flavour without sacrificing elegance, varietal character or regional character; that said,
almost strays into young riesling territory, so delicious is the fruit. Gold medal Hunter Valley Wine Show '06.
Screwcap.
Tu
Tulloch | Hunter Valley Semillon
28 Apr 2011
94/100
2010
UWS: 93/100
Two Rivers is a partowner of Tulloch, and supplies part of Tulloch's grape intake from estate vineyards established
in 1988. Greenstraw in colour, the wine has
a squeeze
of lime zest reminiscent of the '09 vintage character, and the
Published
by 90pluswines.com
15
palate is juicy rather than minerally. Top early drinking style. Screwcap.
UWS: 93/100
Two Rivers is a partowner of Tulloch, and supplies part of Tulloch's grape intake from estate vineyards established
in 1988. Greenstraw in colour, the wine has a squeeze of lime zest reminiscent of the '09 vintage character, and the
palate is juicy rather than minerally. Top early drinking style. Screwcap.
James Halliday © (JH) 22 May 2011 93/100
16
Other
Tu
Alkoomi Wines | Sémillon Australia Wandoo
2004
UWS: 92/100
Pale, brilliant colour; the first hints of toast on the bouquet, with long, fine lemon and grass flavours, the oak
seamlessly woven through the fruit. Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
96/100
The 2004 Wandoo Semillon delivers vanillin, herbal, grassy, sage, and green olive aromas. This leads to a
restrained, elegant Semillon with lemonlime, melon, and citrus flavors balanced by crisp acidity. Although
proponents claim that Semillon is capable of cellaring, I would opt for drinking this wine over the next 13 years
while the fruit remains vibrant. Alkoomi is located in the Frankland River region of Western Australia which is
noted for its cool climate viticulture.
31 Oct 2007
88/100
17
South Australia
Al
Bird in Hand | Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc
2008
UWS: 90/100
Has abundant tropical fruit on bouquet and palate alike, almost to a fault if that were possible; just a touch of
thickness on the midpalate. Screwcap.
Bi
90/100
28 Apr 2011
Clos Clare | Clare Valley Riesling
2006
UWS: 92/100
Developed greenyellow; has considerable lime fruit flavours, the finish lifted and extended by grainy/lemony
acidity. Watervale. Screwcap.
Cl
92/100
28 Apr 2011
Clos Clare | Clare Valley Riesling
2008
UWS: 90/100
Deep colour, vibrant hue; slate and lime bouquet; dry, focused and zesty lime juice palate; fresh and long.
Screwcap.
Cl
90/100
28 Apr 2011
Geoff Weaver | Lenswood Sauvignon Blanc
1998
UWS: 92/100
28 Apr 2011
18,5/20
This 1998 Sauvignon Blanc is close to outstanding. Loire Valleylike, with its flinty, big, steely nose, and flavors of
dried herbs, melon, and honey, this mediumbodied, gorgeously pure, welldelineated, bone dry Sauvignon possesses
terrific fruit and character. Drink it over the next year.
eRobertParker.com © (WA), Robert Parker
G
30 Apr 1999
89/100
2001
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
16/20
Light strawgreen; the fragrant but light bouquet has touches of passionfruit and strawberry which flow through into
the fresh palate, which is not particularly intense, but is clean and lively.
G
28 Apr 2011
90/100
2003
UWS: 90/100
Very fragrant gooseberry and passionfruit; delicate and fresh, though faintly reduced.
28 Apr 2011
91/100
Round in structure, zippy in flavor, with an earthy edge to the apple, citrus and melon flavors, sneaking in a touch of
sage on the finish. Drink now. 128 cases imported. HS
Published Wine
by 90pluswines.com
18
Spectator © (WS), Harvey Steiman 28 Apr 2011 88/100
UWS: 90/100
Very fragrant gooseberry and passionfruit; delicate and fresh, though faintly reduced.
28 Apr 2011
91/100
Round in structure, zippy in flavor, with an earthy edge to the apple, citrus and melon flavors, sneaking in a touch of
sage on the finish. Drink now. 128 cases imported. HS
28 Apr 2011
88/100
Slightly reductive, nutty aromas of melon, gooseberries and baby powder with light grassiness. Moderate in weight,
with some fleshiness and roundness, it offers a pleasing length of attractively concentrated varietal flavours along its
fine and reserved palate, building towards a gentle acid finish. oAdelaide Hills, 16.8, 20042005+)
G
23 Jul 2004
Glen Eldon Wines | Riesling Eden Valley
16,799999/20
2003
UWS: 90/100
Intense, pure Eden Valley lime juice aromas follows through impressively on the palate. Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
95/100
This Eden Valley white has a core of peach or pear skin, with a dusty overlay. It's a pretty, though not
superconcentrated, wine with dusty, white peach aromas. Finishes with more intensity and concentration than you
get on the palate.
An outstanding Riesling from Australia, this 2003 was fashioned by Elderton's former winemaker. It reveals Alsace
like petroleum characteristics in the nose along with honeyed grapefruit and citrus oil characteristics. A powerful,
mediumbodied effort with loads of intensity, and a dry finish, it is meant to be consumed over the next 12 years.
31 Oct 2004
90/100
Subtle aromas of lime, grass and herbs; showed more tropical hints and a stony nuance as it opened in the glass.
Supple, musky and pliant, with spice and citrus flavors. Rather suave riesling, with a bit of finishing warmth.
Winemaker Richard Sheedy formerly made the wines at Elderton.
International Wine Cellar © (IWC), Stephen Tanzer
Gl
01 Jul 2004
Heggies Vineyard Estate | Chardonnay Eden Valley
88/100
2006
UWS: 90/100
Crisp in texture, with a silky sheen to the lemon and pineapple flavors, lingering nicely. Drink now through 2010.
200 cases imported. HS
28 Apr 2011
88/100
The 2006 Chardonnay was barrel fermented and then aged in French oak, 35% new, for 1014 months with regular
lees stirring but no malolactic fermentation. It reveals a smoky, toasty nose with notes of mineral, apple, and
poached pear. This leads to an elegant yet powerful Chardonnay with intense flavors, excellent depth, and a long
finish. It will drink well for several years. It is also an outstanding value.
31 Oct 2007
90/100
A wild, meaty, reductive and floral bouquet of slightly cooked melon and citrus fruit reveals undertones of lemon
candy and green olives. It's long and elegant, well composed and savoury, but its fruit is just slightly cooked and flat,
lacking its customary brightness. o16.7/89, YTD 20082011)
H
04 Sep 2007
Hollick | Sauvignon Blanc-Sémillon Coonawarra
16,700001/20
2007
UWS: 91/100
A fragrant bouquet; a delicate but flavoursome palate, with passionfruit and gooseberry flavour; dry finish, good
acidity. Mount Benson/Coonawarra. Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
91/100
19
H
Hollick | Sauvignon Blanc-Sémillon Coonawarra
2009
UWS: 90/100
Although this is a 90/10 blend, the bouquet and palate seem to have more in common with the semillon component
than the sauvignon blanc; fresh and lively, with grassy/herbaceous flavours dominant, but there is a touch of
tropical fruit on the finish. Screwcap.
H
28 Apr 2011
Jacob's Creek | Chardonnay South Australia Reeves Point
90/100
2003
UWS: 90/100
04 Oct 2012
18,200001/20
An elegant wine, intense yet understated, and developing slowly but surely; coolgrown grapefruit and passionfruit
flavours; subtle oak. Cork.
28 Apr 2011
92/100
The 2003 Chardonnay Reeves Point is light goldcolored. It was aged for 11 months in French oak with partial
malolactic fermentation and lees stirring. It offers a nose of toasty French oak, apple, pear, and cinnamon. This is
followed by a suppletextured, mediumbodied wine with pleasant flavors but little depth. Drink this superficial
Chardonnay over the next 1218 months.
31 Oct 2007
86/100
On the tart side, with some richness to the stony pear flavors, lingering on the racy finish. Drink now through 2010.
500 cases imported. HS
Ja
15 Oct 2007
Jacob's Creek | Riesling South Australia
87/100
2003
UWS: 90/100
Abundant citrus and tropical fruit; well balanced; subliminal sweetness. Great value as ever.
28 Apr 2011
89/100
Generous, quite broad and tangy riesling with a delicate floral and estery aroma of pear and lime, and underlying
nuances of apple and pear. It's fine and chalky, with a pleasing length of varietal flavours, finishing with lemony
acids. o16.8, 20052008+)
Ja
03 Jul 2004
16,799999/20
2006
UWS: 90/100
An exceptional achievement; lots of citrus and lime fruit; good balance and length; gold medal Sydney Wine Show
'07. Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
94/100
Generous and uncomplicated, this tangy and mouthfilling young riesling has a pungent and slightly skinsy aroma of
lime and apple, with a juicy, clean and refreshing palate of vibrant varietal flavour. oSouth Australia, $11 retail,
approx., 16.2/87, drink 20082011)
Jeremy Oliver © (JO) 01 Nov 2007 16,200001/20
Simple apple and lime flavors are citrusy and fresh, finishing crisp and dry. There's not much concentration, but it's
still a zesty, refreshing drink. Drink now. Imported by Pernod Ricard USA.
Wine Enthusiast © (WE)
01 Sep 2007
84/100
20
94/100
28 Apr 2011
Generous and uncomplicated, this tangy and mouthfilling young riesling has a pungent and slightly skinsy aroma of
lime and apple, with a juicy, clean and refreshing palate of vibrant varietal flavour. oSouth Australia, $11 retail,
approx., 16.2/87, drink 20082011)
Simple apple and lime flavors are citrusy and fresh, finishing crisp and dry. There's not much concentration, but it's
still a zesty, refreshing drink. Drink now. Imported by Pernod Ricard USA.
Ja
84/100
01 Sep 2007
2007
UWS: 90/100
Light and fragrant, with floral and peach flavors, finishing with a bite of green apple. Drink now. 30,000 cases
imported. HS
Wine Spectator © (WS), Harvey Steiman 31 Aug 2009 85/100
Juicy, rather candied and confectionery, with tangy flavours of lemon and lime, apple and pear, with nuances of
white peach. Round and generous, with a moderate length of fruit and a bathpowdery texture, it finishes clean and
refreshing.o16.5/88, YTD 20092012)
28 Apr 2008
16,5/20
Tasted blind for British Airways Pure, interesting nose with some complexity. Good wine that is not aggressively
aged but has real concentration and lots of tingling lime zappiness. Persistent.
Ja
2008
UWS: 90/100
Light strawgreen; has clear varietal expression, with distinct notes of lime; has excellent citrussy acidity and
length. Predominantly from the Barossa Valley, Langhorne Creek and Clare Valley. Good value. Screwcap.
89/100
28 Apr 2011
Again, this is a deliciously fresh riesling with varietal fruit and character aplenty. It's upfront, honest and fruity, with
a slightly confectionary but lively and floral perfume of apple, pear and lime juice. It's round and juicy, with a
pleasing depth of fruit and brightness and an element of lusciousness. Even if the palate lacks the great length and
shape of a premier riesling, it's still vibrant and persistent. I just wish they'd put it in a riesling bottle! oVarious,
16.0/87, drink 20092010+)
Ja
20 Apr 2009
Jacob's Creek | Riesling South Australia Reserve
16/20
2002
UWS: 90/100
04 Oct 2012
17,799999/20
Just very slightly too sweet and heavy but not bad and still lively. This would have had a disproportionately high
proportion of Clare Riesling in the blend.
19 Feb 2010
16,5/20
Whereas other Oz Rieslings can be described as having light chalky notes, this one's got rocks and boulders. It's dry
in the mouth, with lime skin and a bold rockyslatey sort of minerality. Has a slight spritz in the mouth, with star
fruit on the finish and melon notes on the nose.
Dry, opentextured and ebullient with peach, mineral, lemon and cream flavors, which linger effortlessly on the
generous finish. Drink now through 2007. 10,000 cases made. HS
Wine Spectator © (WS), Harvey Steiman 15 May 2003 89/100
Ja
01 Feb 2003
89/100
2005
UWS: 93/100
Light strawgreen; elegant mouthfeel and balance to the crisp lime juice fruit; fresh finish and aftertaste. Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
93/100
21
Focused, fresh and flavoursome, this finely crafted riesling has a floral perfume of intense lime and lemon rind, with
a juicy, slightly crunchy and confectionary palate whose pear/apple and lime juice fruit has a slightly confectionary
UWS: 93/100
Light strawgreen; elegant mouthfeel and balance to the crisp lime juice fruit; fresh finish and aftertaste. Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
93/100
Focused, fresh and flavoursome, this finely crafted riesling has a floral perfume of intense lime and lemon rind, with
a juicy, slightly crunchy and confectionary palate whose pear/apple and lime juice fruit has a slightly confectionary
and bathpowdery aspect. It finishes with a lingering presence of fruit and refreshing acids. oSouth Australia, $20
retail, approx., 17.2/90, drink 20102013+)
Ja
28 Jun 2007
2006
Ja
17,200001/20
01 Sep 2007
90/100
2008
UWS: 90/100
A lively and fresh wine with citrus blossom aromas mirrored on the palate and enhanced by lively acidity on the
finish. A superior wine. Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
93/100
01 Jul 2009
84/100
Tart and lively, offering a mouthwatering style that delivers a nice hit of green apple and lime flavor, persisting
nicely. Drink now through 2015. 7,000 cases imported. HS
30 Apr 2009
90/100
Smooth, elegant and very refined, with delicate, subtle aromas of lime, lavender, apple and pear. It's long and
reserved, with a lively, but gentle presence of citrus and apple flavour along its fine, silky palate, finishing with
refreshing lemony acids.o17.0/90, YTD 20132016)
Ja
Leasingham | Clare Valley Riesling Bin 7
04 Apr 2009
17/20
2006
UWS: 90/100
In the mainstream of Clare style; a balanced display of lime juice, spice, passionfruit and slatey minerals; good
length, and will only get better in the years ahead. Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
93/100
Bright and lively, with pear and peppery floral aromas and flavors, lingering on the tart finish. Drink now through
2011. 2,500 cases made. HS
Wine Spectator © (WS), Harvey Steiman 30 Nov 2007 86/100
The 2006 Riesling Bin 7 is light strawcolored with aromas of slate/mineral, petrol, and honeysuckle. Crisp and
vibrant on the palate, it delivers dry, crisp lemonlime and grapefruit flavors. The wine is nicely balanced and has
moderate length. Drink it over the next 23 years.
eRobertParker.com
Published by
90pluswines.com
© (WA), Jay Miller
31 Oct 2007
87/100
22
Long, stylish and bonedry, this flavoursome and finely phenolic riesling has a forward, honeysucklelike scent of
In the mainstream of Clare style; a balanced display of lime juice, spice, passionfruit and slatey minerals; good
length, and will only get better in the years ahead. Screwcap.
93/100
28 Apr 2011
Bright and lively, with pear and peppery floral aromas and flavors, lingering on the tart finish. Drink now through
2011. 2,500 cases made. HS
The 2006 Riesling Bin 7 is light strawcolored with aromas of slate/mineral, petrol, and honeysuckle. Crisp and
vibrant on the palate, it delivers dry, crisp lemonlime and grapefruit flavors. The wine is nicely balanced and has
moderate length. Drink it over the next 23 years.
87/100
31 Oct 2007
Long, stylish and bonedry, this flavoursome and finely phenolic riesling has a forward, honeysucklelike scent of
toast, lime and mineral. Tangy citrus fruit is tightly focused along its taut, clean and stylish palate. Good freshness
and balance. oClare Valley, $18 retail, approx., 17.0/90, drink 20112014+)
Le
15 Jan 2007
17/20
2009
UWS: 94/100
A racy bouquet of freshly squeezed limes and green apple; the palate is full of zesty fruit, and is drawn out to a long
and even conclusion by fine rapierlike acidity. Screwcap.
Le
94/100
28 Apr 2011
2010
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
Le
Leasingham | Clare Valley Riesling Magnus
25 Jan 2012
3/5
2005
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
28 Apr 2011
3/5
Mint and lemon scents introduce this light, grapey riesling, just off dry with a clean, brisk finish. For clams in black
bean sauce.
85/100
01 Feb 2006
Lowkey but very racy nose. Extremely youthful but dense and lively. Complete but with great delicacy. Very fine.
This may well develop into something closer to The Florita with one year's more bottle age. Very youthful and tight
at present. This wine seems to me to taste far more impressive than its relatively low price and lowly status in the
Leasingham range would suggest.
Le
31 Jan 2006
17,5/20
2007
UWS: 90/100
As with all the Magnus wines, overdelivers, with abundant fruit and a good twist on the aftertaste. Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
89/100
100% Riesling, from the Clare Valley. Screwcap. Tangy, minerally nose. Bone dry. Very refreshing even if nothing
like as exciting at the Steingarten (which is at Asda too, isn't it?).
01 Jun 2009
15,5/20
Made in a very bright and fruitforward style, the 2007 Magnus Riesling offers a pleasing mouthful of fruit that
should be consumed young. Lime, tangerine and apple blossom aromas and green apple and citrus flavors are
immediately pleasing, ending on a crisp, mouthwatering note.
01 Jun 2009
88/100
This smooth, grapey riesling has flavors of lime juice and more austere lime pith. It's a cool white to serve with roast
snapper.
01 Feb 2009
88/100
Impressive for its harmony and seamless structure, offering a joyous mouthful of lemon curd, quince and lime on a
Published
by 90pluswines.com
23
steely frame. The flavors just don't quit. Drink
now through
2015. 2,500 cases imported. HS
like as exciting at the Steingarten (which is at Asda too, isn't it?).
01 Jun 2009
15,5/20
Made in a very bright and fruitforward style, the 2007 Magnus Riesling offers a pleasing mouthful of fruit that
should be consumed young. Lime, tangerine and apple blossom aromas and green apple and citrus flavors are
immediately pleasing, ending on a crisp, mouthwatering note.
88/100
01 Jun 2009
This smooth, grapey riesling has flavors of lime juice and more austere lime pith. It's a cool white to serve with roast
snapper.
88/100
01 Feb 2009
Impressive for its harmony and seamless structure, offering a joyous mouthful of lemon curd, quince and lime on a
steely frame. The flavors just don't quit. Drink now through 2015. 2,500 cases imported. HS
Smooth, juicy and vibrant, this promisingly intense and tangy riesling just breaks down a fraction at the finish. It's
scented with rose petals, lime, lemon and apple, while its slightly candied palate has a moderate length of flavour
and is underpinned by an attractive chalkiness.o16.6/88, YTD 20092012)
Le
2008
UWS: 90/100
Some attractive bath powder and apple blossom aromas followed by a very crisp and delicate palate, but which
gains intensity on the finish. Very well priced. Screwcap.
91/100
28 Apr 2011
This wine earns every penny of its modest price tag with a bright palate of petrol, talcum powder and wet stones
propping up aromas of white flowers, cumin and lime. The finish could be longer but with this stunning nose and
palate, we're not complaining. Drink now.
Wine Enthusiast © (WE) 31 Dec 2009 89/100
Light and fragrant, this is soft and open in texture, beaming with citrusy apple and pear, finishing dry. Drink now
through 2015. 3,145 cases made. HS
89/100
15 Oct 2009
This smells and tastes like a Clare Valley riesling, packed with scents of lime, honey and wet slate. For katsu pork.
Le
Lindemans | Padthaway Chardonnay
89/100
01 Oct 2009
1995
UWS: 91/100
Ripe, round and juicily bright. Delivers tropical fruit, pear and citrus flavors, and hints of toast and nutmeg on the
long finish. Generous, stylish and tightly wound to unfold through 1998. 32,800 cases made.
Wine Spectator © (WS) 31 Dec 1996 91/100
Li
Lindemans | Padthaway Chardonnay
1996
UWS: 90/100
The newest Chardonnay vintage from this Australian winery is remarkably generous and opentextured, bubbling
over with citrusy pineapple and pear flavors, shaded nicely with gentle spicy notes that linger enticingly on the
elegant finish. Delicious. 6,891 cases imported. HS
Li
Majella | Riesling Coonawarra
2006
UWS: 90/100
A herb, mineral and apple blossom mix on the bouquet, the lively and fresh palate a reprise; good length. Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
28 Apr 2011
91/100
15,9/20
24
M
2009
UWS: 90/100
Very pale colour, almost white; a clean, fresh bouquet with some apple/apple blossom, then a precise, crisp and
bone dry palate. Screwcap.
M
90/100
28 Apr 2011
2010
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
M
Mitchell Cellars | Clare Valley Semillon
25 Jan 2012
3/5
2000
UWS: 91/100
M
28 Apr 2011
Mitchell Cellars | Clare Valley Semillon
16,5/20
2005
UWS: 93/100
The characteristic richness and complexity of Mitchell Semillon, but in this instance the fruit and oak are well
balanced and integrated. A highquality example of barrelfermented semillon using indigenous/wild yeasts.
Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
94/100
Juicy and generous, with slightly brassy green melon and applelike flavour with undertones of smoky vanilla oak,
wheatmeal, minerality and a light funkiness. Finished with refreshing acids, it's broad but well balanced, and lacks
great length and genuine finesse. oClare Valley, 16.6/88, drink 20102013)
M
Mount Horrocks | Clare Valley Riesling
2003
UWS: 91/100
Decanter © (DC)
28 Apr 2011
4/5
Dry, a bit austere, but it delivers enough lime, mineral and peach flavor to make it worth cellaring until it settles in.
Best from 2006 through 2010. 60 cases imported. HS
M
28 Apr 2011
89/100
01 Feb 2004
88/100
Mount Horrocks | Clare Valley Semillon
2000
UWS: 90/100
04 Oct 2012
17,299999/20
Light to medium yellowgreen; the bouquet is clean, firm and solid, with some mineral undertones and not
particularly aromatic. The palate has been very well constructed, not unlike a cross between traditional Hunter style
and that of the Adelaide Hills. Should develop very well; the oak has in no sense been overplayed.
28 Apr 2011
90/100
Pale to medium bright strawyellow. Bright, spicy aromas of citrus and melon fruit, with assertively sweet, smoky
Published
by 90pluswines.com
25
vanillin oak. Smooth and sumptuous, but nicely
focused
around a bright core of lemon and honeydew melon fruit.
Finishes with smooth but rather firm oak influences.
UWS: 90/100
04 Oct 2012
17,299999/20
Light to medium yellowgreen; the bouquet is clean, firm and solid, with some mineral undertones and not
particularly aromatic. The palate has been very well constructed, not unlike a cross between traditional Hunter style
and that of the Adelaide Hills. Should develop very well; the oak has in no sense been overplayed.
90/100
28 Apr 2011
Pale to medium bright strawyellow. Bright, spicy aromas of citrus and melon fruit, with assertively sweet, smoky
vanillin oak. Smooth and sumptuous, but nicely focused around a bright core of lemon and honeydew melon fruit.
Finishes with smooth but rather firm oak influences.
International Wine Cellar © (IWC), Jeremy Oliver
M
86/100
01 Jul 2002
Nepenthe | Adelaide Hills Chardonnay Unwooded
2004
UWS: 90/100
04 Oct 2012
16,6/20
Light yellow. Fresh, racy aromas of lemon, rubyred grapefruit and candied apple. Plump, juicy and medium in
weight, with bright lemon and green apple flavors nicely braced by subtle acids. Finishes crisp and focused, with a
firm mineral note adding lift and nerve.
88/100
01 Jul 2006
A delicious white, the 2004 Unwooded Chardonnay, reveals abundant richness along with hints of tangerines, lemon
butter, and apples. This mediumbodied, fruity Chardonnay possesses crisp acidity as well as excellent purity and
depth. I consistently enjoy the wines from Nepenthe, a large, coolclimate viticultural management company in
South Australia. Their reds and whites tend to be pure, fragrant efforts with crisp acidity as well as loads of fruit, all
presented in an elegant style.
N
89/100
31 Oct 2005
Nepenthe | Adelaide Hills Chardonnay Unwooded
2005
UWS: 91/100
04 Oct 2012
16,799999/20
Beautiful white peach, poached pear, and honey characteristics emerge from the 2005 Unwooded Chardonnay.
Richly fruity, with terrific purity, and a heady finish, it is best consumed over the next 12 years.
N
Paracombe | Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc
90/100
31 Oct 2006
2005
UWS: 90/100
Light strawgreen; clean, gentle tropical/passionfruit flavours; an appealing, early drinking style. Screwcap.
Pa
Paringa Estate | Chardonnay-Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc South Australia
90/100
28 Apr 2011
2003
UWS: 90/100
Big, slightly overblown aromas of peach and melon fruit are backed by toasty, toffeelike butterscotch malolactic
influences. Its juicy, almost cloying and oily palate of upfront toffeelike fruit finishes rather flat, without much
length. Rather hard, lacking elegance and brightness of fruit and cramped by aggressive oak. oMornington
Peninsula, $30 retail, approx., 15.8/86, drink 20042005+)
Pa
21 Sep 2005
15,8/20
2004
UWS: 90/100
Glowing greenyellow; a sophisticated wine; nectarine, grapefruit and quality oak up front, then a long, bright finish
built around acidity. Screwcap.
Published by 90pluswines.com James
Halliday © (JH)
28 Apr 2011
94/100
26
Bright, refreshing and appealing for its spicy pear flavors, lingering gently. Drink now. 4,500 cases made. HS
UWS: 90/100
Glowing greenyellow; a sophisticated wine; nectarine, grapefruit and quality oak up front, then a long, bright finish
built around acidity. Screwcap.
94/100
28 Apr 2011
Bright, refreshing and appealing for its spicy pear flavors, lingering gently. Drink now. 4,500 cases made. HS
Pa
87/100
30 Apr 2005
2005
UWS: 90/100
Clean, fresh grapefruit and melon flavours supported by crisp acidity and subtle oak; attractively tight structure and
length. Screwcap.
94/100
28 Apr 2011
Bright and appealing for its peach and apple fruit, hinting at herbs on the soft finish. Drink now. 3,000 cases made.
HS
Juicy aromas of lemon rind, pineapple and grapefruit with slightly herbal undertones precede a smooth, elegant
palate whose tropical and citrusy fruit finishes just a little sweet and cloying. oMornington Peninsula, 16.5/88, drink
20072010+)
Pa
Penfolds | Adelaide Hills Chardonnay Thomas Hyland
08 Jul 2006
16,5/20
2006
UWS: 90/100
A restrained, coolclimate style, with good line, length and balance; the Robe component (49%) drives the style and
flavour every bit as much as the Adelaide Hills component (55%); Fleurieu (6%). Controlled barrel ferment/wild
yeast adds complexity. Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
94/100
On the lean side, with modest pear and spice flavors, lingering gently. Drink now. 10,000 cases imported. HS
Pe
Penfolds | Adelaide Hills Chardonnay Thomas Hyland
2009
UWS: 90/100
A finely crafted wine; the flavour and structure suggests the Adelaide Super Zone has been used to take in Adelaide
Hills/Southern Fleurieu, the finish with crisp, almost crunchy, minerally acidity. Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
93/100
The 2009 Thomas Hyland Chardonnay has a lovely creamy, mealy character over pineapple and mango fruit notes.
Light to mediumbodied with crisp acidity and moderate flavor concentration, it gives a good long finish. Drink it
now to 2013. With a lot of changes happening around the Foster's Group, it is business as usual at Penfolds...which
seems to operate within its own world. But this is no small world. The vineyard holdings here are vast and the
connections with growers go back generations. Chief winemaker Peter Gago is the very well spoken frontman for
the production team backedup Kym Schroeter in charge of the whites and Steve Lienert crafting some very fine,
consistent and sometimes inspired reds. If Champagne is all about the art of blending, then Penfolds is the
Champagne of Australian wine. Those that think large companies producing wines that emphasize blending can't
make great wines need to think about the Champagne model or simply try some of Penfolds top wines to become
believers. That said check out their recent single vineyard release: the very special 2004 Block 42 Kalimna
Cabernet Sauvignon, the first release of a wine made purely from this 100+ year old single block (perhaps the oldest
block of Cabernet in the world?) since 1996.
eRobertParker.com © (WA) 31 Dec 2010 86/100
27
Pe
Penfolds | Sémillon-Chardonnay South Australia Koonunga Hill
2008
UWS: 90/100
Spotlessly clean, with gentle tropical nuances on the bouquet; the palate is fresh and lively, featuring grass, lemon
and pineapple flavours. Screwcap.
Pe
28 Apr 2011
Petaluma | Clare Valley Riesling
90/100
2002
UWS: 92/100
04 Oct 2012
18,700001/20
The 2002 Riesling is a light strawcolored effort offering notions of spring garden flowers, green apples, and under
ripe apricots as well as peaches. Light to mediumbodied, steely, and austere, it is less consumer friendly than most
recommended Rieslings, but wellmade. I know Petaluma's wines are considered by many Australian wine
authorities as very ageworthy, but I purchased a lot of them when they were imported by Robert Chadderdon over
twenty years ago, and their high acid levels only became more shrill with age. Once the baby fat fell away (by age 7
10), they became nearly undrinkable ... I'm speaking of the red wines, of course. So the message is obvious ... drink
them young.
Very pale, bright green. Estery, floral perfume of rose petal, apple blossom and ripe pear, with a suggestion of musk.
Pure, juicy and very refreshing, with a long, almost crunchy palate culminating in bracingly fresh acids and
pleasing austerity. A wine of restrained power, impeccable balance and remarkable length. More of a coolclimate
wine than most Petaluma rieslings, but a benchmark nevertheless.
01 Jul 2003
95/100
Waterwhite. 'Lively, Germanic, smooth, offdry Australian'.
Jancis Robinson © (JR) 29 Mar 2003 16,5/20
Pe
Peter Lehmann | Barossa Valley Semillon
2006
UWS: 90/100
Bright greentinged colour; has flourished with two years bottle age, touches of honey and toast starting to appear
on the foundation of citrus fruit; has further to go. Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
92/100
07 Oct 2009
16/20
A typically generous and flavoursome Barossa semillon whose ripe expression of vibrant honeydew melon and
gooseberry flavour is backed by a light grassiness and augmented by slightly toasty, vanilla and buttery oak. It's
quite forward and luscious, with genuine weight, presence and richness, finishing with moderate length but with a
slightly edgy, lemony aspect. Likely to flesh out over the short to medium term.o16.8/89, YTD 20112014)
Soft in texture, with hay and freshmown grass aromas and grapefruit peel flavors. Well done, but an acquired taste.
Drink now through 2011. 3,000 cases imported. HS
Pe
Peter Lehmann | Barossa Valley Semillon
2009
UWS: 92/100
The cuckoo in the nest yet again; the skill and intelligence of the winemaking team's handling of semillon across all
price points is awesome, here giving the Hunter Valley a beating, although not (sadly) Marlborough sauvignon
blanc. Drink now, or later as the lemon aromas and flavours yield to honey and a touch of toast. Screwcap.
Published by 90pluswines.com James Halliday © (JH) 03 Jun 2011 92/100
28
UWS: 92/100
The cuckoo in the nest yet again; the skill and intelligence of the winemaking team's handling of semillon across all
price points is awesome, here giving the Hunter Valley a beating, although not (sadly) Marlborough sauvignon
blanc. Drink now, or later as the lemon aromas and flavours yield to honey and a touch of toast. Screwcap.
Pe
03 Jun 2011
Peter Lehmann | Riesling Barossa
92/100
1993
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
18/20
The 1993 Riesling is a dry to offdry wine with loads of apple fruit, fine purity and ripeness, and a tasty, crisp finish.
It would have scored higher had the bouquet been more forthcoming.
Pe
Pike & Joyce Wines | Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc
2005
UWS: 90/100
Good intensity and length; ripe but not heavy tropical/passionfruit food style. Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
92/100
Lean and peppery, with peach and melon notes beneath the herbal flavors. Drink now. 900 cases imported. HS
15 Oct 2007
88/100
A juicy, fresh and intensely flavoured sauvignon blanc whose lively aromas of gooseberry, passionfruit and
asparaguslike undertones of capsicum have a slightly candied aspect. Its pleasing length of pristine, lightly grassy
fruit culminates in a tangy finish of bright acidity. oLenswood, $24 retail, approx., 90, drink 20062007)
Jeremy Oliver © (JO) 28 Aug 2007 17,200001/20
The 2005 Sauvignon Blanc displays melon and honeyed lemon characteristics along with a hint of herbs. This
pleasant, unassuming dry white will provide uncritical quaffing over the next 12 years. Imported by USA Wine
West, San Rafael, CA; tel. (800) 4855753 for John Larchet, The Australian Premium Wine Collection.
Pi
Stringy Brae | Clare Valley Riesling
31 Oct 2006
87/100
2004
UWS: 90/100
Light gold. Spicy, citrustinged aromas of green apple and crisp, fresh pear, with complicating notes of coriander
and fresh bay. Light and elegant in texture, with juicy apple, pear and quince flavors lifted by refreshing minty tones.
The clean finish is refreshingly dry, with a bitter note of quinine.
St
Tim Adams | Clare Valley Riesling
01 Jul 2005
90/100
2002
UWS: 91/100
A very pale and shimmering greentinged wine. Nose is dominated by the aroma of freshly squeezed lime juice, with
nuances of honeycomb and acacia. Firm acidity through the palate, which matches the fresh lime fruit found here
also, as well as a touch of apricot. A slightly full, rounded character to the texture. There's none of the honey found
on the nose, but I suspect this will develop with bottle age. Although drinking well now, this wine will happily
tolerate several years in the cellar.
Wine Doctor © (WD) 17 Mar 2012 16+/20
Light to medium yellowgreen; the aromas are tight, initially ranging through herb, mineral and lemon, then a touch
of spice; the wellbalanced palate is equally tight, lively and crisp, offering citrus, apple and lemon flavours. Very
much the product of a great vintage.
28 Apr 2011
94/100
Crisp acidity along with notes of lemons, limes, and green apples characterize the lightbodied, zesty 2002 Riesling.
29
Purchasers should drink it over the next 1218 months to take advantage of its fresh, exuberant personality.
31 Aug 2003
A very pale and shimmering greentinged wine. Nose is dominated by the aroma of freshly squeezed lime juice, with
nuances of honeycomb and acacia. Firm acidity through the palate, which matches the fresh lime fruit found here
also, as well as a touch of apricot. A slightly full, rounded character to the texture. There's none of the honey found
on the nose, but I suspect this will develop with bottle age. Although drinking well now, this wine will happily
tolerate several years in the cellar.
Light to medium yellowgreen; the aromas are tight, initially ranging through herb, mineral and lemon, then a touch
of spice; the wellbalanced palate is equally tight, lively and crisp, offering citrus, apple and lemon flavours. Very
much the product of a great vintage.
94/100
28 Apr 2011
Crisp acidity along with notes of lemons, limes, and green apples characterize the lightbodied, zesty 2002 Riesling.
Purchasers should drink it over the next 1218 months to take advantage of its fresh, exuberant personality.
Very pale, bright, strawtinged green. Mineral, lemon rind, spiced apple and lime juice aromas of exceptional
clarity; exudes a musky, floral, bathpowderlike perfume. Racy, austere, steely and long, with pristine fruit flavors
neatly countered by yeasty, leesderived complexity. Marvelously tight and balanced, with knifeedge acidity.
90/100
01 Jul 2003
Dense and tense a good expression of the vintage.
Ti
Tim Adams | Clare Valley Riesling
2010
UWS: 92/100
Decanter © (DC)
18 Jan 2012
4/5
Tim Adams' 2010 Riesling gives a great intensity of lime juice and lime leaf aromas with some lemon zest and
crushed stones plus whiffs of orange blossom and coriander seed. Dry, crisp with a light body and good
concentration is offers a long refreshing finish. Drink it now to 2018+. No known USA importer.
Ti
Tim Adams | Clare Valley Semillon
1994
UWS: 90/100
04 Oct 2012
18,299999/20
Medium yellowgreen; already very developed and rich, with good fruit balance and integration to the bouquet. The
palate is complex, rich and fullbodied with sweet, tropical fruits and spicy oak; a fullblown Australian White
Burgundystyle. Retasted October 1995 with very similar notes; as expected, now rich, fullblown and unctuous.
86/100
28 Apr 2011
Ripe and generous, flavors centered on pineapple, with a citrusy zing on the finish. Drinkable now. 4,000 cases
made.
Wine Spectator © (WS)
Ti
87/100
30 Jun 1995
1996
UWS: 90/100
04 Oct 2012
Decanter © (DC)
17,9/20
28 Sep 2011
3/5
Medium to full yellowgreen; the bouquet is typically fullbodied, but has swallowed up the oak. The palate has
plenty of flavour and depth, and, against all the odds, it is neither phenolic nor excessively oaky. Finishes with good
acidity.
28 Apr 2011
85/100
This appellation isn't known for Sémillon, but this wine has plenty of flavor and a lively finish that promises much.
Fig, citrus and lanolin flavors balance on a fulcrum of crisp acidity. Feels like it will age well. Best from 2000
through 2005. HS
Ti
30 Apr 1998
88/100
2001
30
UWS: 90/100
Ti
28 Apr 2011
15,9/20
2002
UWS: 90/100
Lovely lemon, lime and tropical mix of aromas and flavours; great line, length and balance.
93/100
28 Apr 2011
Aromas are of honey and melon, and flavors are of hay and honey. What it lacks in concentration it makes up in
crispness.
Ti
86/100
01 Feb 2004
Torzi Matthews | Riesling Eden Valley Frost Dodger
2005
UWS: 91/100
28 Apr 2011
18/20
Bright straw color. Mineraltinged aromas of macadamia, lemon zest, quince and apple. Vibrant, sharply focused
flavors of green apple, quince, petrol and wet stone. Finishes dusty and refreshingly bitter, with notes of quinine,
fresh pear and key lime. (The Grateful Palate, Oxnard, CA)
89/100
01 Jul 2006
The 2005 Riesling Frost Dodger (from surprisingly old vines averaging 36 years) exhibits abundant quantities of
apple, pear, and citrus characteristics along with fresh acidity, medium body, and a crisp, elegant personality. Enjoy
it over the next year.
To
Wakefield Estate | Riesling South Australia Promised Land
88/100
31 Oct 2005
2008
UWS: 90/100
2008 South Australia Promised Land Riesling (Best Buy) This has powerful, schisty acidity and more fat to its fruit
than any riesling has a right to. The peach and pineapple richness is checked by that laserlike acidity. Chill this for
roast marron.
90/100
01 Oct 2010
Crisp and light, with pretty apple, quince and mineral aromas and flavors, lingering nicely on the pure finish. Drink
now through 2013. 840 cases imported. HS
W
Wolf Blass Winery | South Australia Riesling Gold Label
89/100
30 Jun 2010
2003
UWS: 90/100
Citrus is the name of the game here, from understated citrusrind aromas to dry, zesty grapefruit and lemon flavors.
It's bright and has the roundness in the mouth seen in a lot of 2003 Rieslings. Tiny spritz on the finish, plus citrus
and stone fruit.
01 Feb 2004
87/100
Intense aromas of musky, confectionery lime juice and lemon rind precede a forward, round and generous palate
finishing with slatey, mineral acids. A little forward, broad and cooked for a higher rating. 17.9, drink 20052006,
o$17 retail, approx.).
30 Sep 2003
17,9/20
The green/strawcolored, lightbodied 2003 Riesling Gold Label offers pleasant lime and other citrus notes in its
by 90pluswines.com
31
dry, clean personality. Enjoy it over the next Published
year.
UWS: 90/100
Citrus is the name of the game here, from understated citrusrind aromas to dry, zesty grapefruit and lemon flavors.
It's bright and has the roundness in the mouth seen in a lot of 2003 Rieslings. Tiny spritz on the finish, plus citrus
and stone fruit.
87/100
01 Feb 2004
Intense aromas of musky, confectionery lime juice and lemon rind precede a forward, round and generous palate
finishing with slatey, mineral acids. A little forward, broad and cooked for a higher rating. 17.9, drink 20052006,
o$17 retail, approx.).
30 Sep 2003
17,9/20
The green/strawcolored, lightbodied 2003 Riesling Gold Label offers pleasant lime and other citrus notes in its
dry, clean personality. Enjoy it over the next year.
W
Wolf Blass Winery | South Australia Riesling Gold Label
2008
UWS: 90/100
Very good under $20 riesling. Characteristic lime and other citrus notes, with a hint of graphite. It wants to move
towards kerosene, but for the moment you get just a whiff of it. Hint of sweetness on the end palate perfectly
balances by acidity.
88/100
28 Jan 2012
Wolf Blass's 2008 Riesling Gold Label is pale strawcolored with a slight green tint. The nose displays spring
flowers, lemonlime, baking spices, and mineral. Light in body, on the palate it is dry, crisp, and flavorful with plenty
of vibrant citrus, and a chalky acid structure. It will evolve for several more years and drink well through 2018.
eRobertParker.com © (WA), Jay Miller 31 Dec 2009 89/100
A ripe, modern riesling with a floral perfume of lemon rind, lime juice and hints of toasty, candied development
backed by a trace of mineral. Underpinned by finely powered phenolics, it's long, bright and crystalline palate
finishes with pleasing length and lemony acidity, but is just slightly advanced, toasty and caramellike. o17.1/90,
YTD 20102013+)
W
11 Apr 2009
Wynns Coonawarra Estate | Chardonnay Coonawarra
17,1/20
2004
UWS: 91/100
Light to mediumbodied; very good fruit and oak balance and integration; melon and stone fruit plus spicy oak;
clean finish, good acidity. Screwcap.
90/100
28 Apr 2011
A generous and vibrant chardonnay whose forward, creamy aromas of stonefruit and vanilla oak are backed by
nuances of green cashew. Round and approachable, it's a pleasing and enjoyable earlymaturing wine with just a
hint of greenness and sappiness at the finish. oCoonawarra, $16 retail, approx., 16.6/88, drink 20052006+)
W
Yalumba | Eden Valley Riesling Hand Picked
2002
UWS: 92/100
Light to medium yellowgreen; clear citrus, pear,apple and spice aromas come through on both bouquet and the
attractive palate, which finishes with citrussy acidity. As yet, slightly atypical for the Eden Valley, but it may well be
more lime juice flavours will develop with time in bottle. Postscript: in fact very similar to the 2000 vintage.
28 Apr 2011
93/100
The outstanding 2002 Hand Picked Riesling from Eden Valley is one of the finest Australian dry Rieslings I have
tasted. Crisp, elegant notes of apples, oranges, and citrus oils are offered in a persuasive, clean, authoritatively
flavored style.
Pale strawgreen. Flowery, lightly spicy aromas of lime juice, apple and pears. Juicy, crunchy fruit flavors finish
clean, crisp and long, with tangy mineral acids.
01 Jul 2003
90/100
Fragrant, flowery and lightly spicy aromas of lime juice, pears and apples. Forward, tangy palate of translucent
riesling flavours, building towards a long, minerally finish of tightness and elegance. 18.5, drink 20072010, o$26
retail, approx.)
Published by 90pluswines.com Jeremy
Oliver © (JO)
18 Jun 2003
18,5/20
32
The outstanding 2002 Hand Picked Riesling from Eden Valley is one of the finest Australian dry Rieslings I have
tasted. Crisp, elegant notes of apples, oranges, and citrus oils are offered in a persuasive, clean, authoritatively
flavored style.
Pale strawgreen. Flowery, lightly spicy aromas of lime juice, apple and pears. Juicy, crunchy fruit flavors finish
clean, crisp and long, with tangy mineral acids.
90/100
01 Jul 2003
Fragrant, flowery and lightly spicy aromas of lime juice, pears and apples. Forward, tangy palate of translucent
riesling flavours, building towards a long, minerally finish of tightness and elegance. 18.5, drink 20072010, o$26
retail, approx.)
Y
18 Jun 2003
Black Rock | Chardonnay McLaren Vale
18,5/20
1996
UWS: 90/100
Supple and appealing for its pretty, vanillascented passion fruit and pear flavors, which linger nicely on the
generous, nutmegscented finish. Ready now. 2,500 cases made.
Typically rich, forward, citrusy, McLaren Vale chardonnay with excellent delivery of citrus/melon/tropical varietal
flavour, a sumptuous creamy and texture and wellhandled, but assertive vanilla oak. Slightly high in alcohol, but
long in finish with clean lemony acids. o16.5, Drink 19982001, $14 retail, approx.)
Bl
01 Oct 1997
Black Rock | Chardonnay McLaren Vale
16,5/20
2004
UWS: 91/100
A blend of 75% Chenin Blanc with some Chardonnay and Viognier, the fruit for this wine comes from cool, dry
farmed vineyards in Swartland. It has a great, pure fruit character, and it's ripe, generous, balancing wood and
acidity along with white fruit flavors, peaches and green plums. A touch of minerality completes the picture.
Imported by Vinnovative Imports.
Bl
Pertaringa Wines | McLaren Vale Sauvignon Blanc Scarecrow
2007
UWS: 90/100
The 2007 Sauvignon Blanc Scarecrow is medium strawcolored with a fragrant bouquet of fresh herbs, gooseberry,
passion fruit, and citrus. This leads to a creamytextured, lush wine in which tropical flavors make an appearance. It
is balanced by crisp acidity, and has a long, refreshing finish. Drink it over the next 1218 months. The Pertaringa
Vineyard was planted in 1970 and subsequently purchased and expanded by Geoff Hardy and Ian Leask beginning
in 1980. The vineyard now covers 77 acres, planted primarily to Shiraz with small plots of seven other varietals.
Pe
31 Oct 2007
Jim Barry Wines | Riesling Watervale
90/100
1989
UWS: 90/100
04 Oct 2012
17,200001/20
(At first Jim Barry couldn't use the Florita name because Leo Buring had registered it but this changes from 2004).
Deep copper. Full and opulent and rather sweet and too much.
Ji
06 Oct 2004
15/20
1996
UWS: 92/100
Ji
04 Oct 2012
16,700001/20
1997
33
UWS: 90/100
Riesling was once a hugely important white in Australia and it remains very significant in Clare. This shows all
kinds of interesting limecactus, ripe melon, waxy, peppery and licorice notes. Quite full, smooth and viscous on the
palate with some acidity but a bit perfumed and cloying. Chill well. Very good length. Could age up to ten years.
Ji
86/100
28 Jan 2012
28 Apr 2011
18/20
2000
UWS: 92/100
Ji
04 Oct 2012
16,799999/20
2002
UWS: 93/100
Very pale bright green. Fresh mineral and lime juice aromas with spicy nuances of fresh apple and lemon rind.
Seamless and austere on the palate, with musky bathpowderlike apple and pear fruit finishing very dry and long,
with racy acids and a talclike texture.
90/100
01 Jul 2003
Minerally lime juice fragrance scented with spicy apple aromas and lemon zest. Long, smooth and racy palate of
roundness and generosity, culminating in an austere, steely finish of lingering musky bathpowder flavours and
talcumlike phenolics. 18.4, drink 20072010+, o$15 retail, approx.)
Ji
18 Jun 2003
18,4/20
2004
UWS: 90/100
Solid wine; apple, citrus and lime, but needs more focus.
87/100
28 Apr 2011
Rather a Germanic expression of Clare Valley riesling whose minty, almost nettlelike aromas of apple and lime
juice precede a long, smooth and mineral palate of shape and elegance. Lemony acids neatly bind its lively
expression of pear and apple flavour, while it finishes long and vibrant. oClare Valley, 17.4, drink 20092012+)
Ji
13 Sep 2004
17,4/20
2005
UWS: 92/100
Clean, lemon/lime aromas and similar, generous citrus flavours; good balance and line. Screwcap.
92/100
28 Apr 2011
Spicy floral and slightluy candied, its lemony aromas and tangy, juicy palate of lime/apple flavour culminate in a
clean, crunchy finish of refreshing acids. It's long, fresh and tightly focused, with pleasing shape and generosity.
oClare Valley, 17.4/91, drink 20102013)
Ji
05 Jul 2006
17,4/20
2006
34
UWS: 92/100
A clean, but slightly closed bouquet; abundant flavour in the citrus spectrum; perks up on a delicate, refreshing
finish. Screwcap.
90/100
28 Apr 2011
A vibrant, floral and schisty perfume of penetrative citrusy aroma precedes a round, juicy and generous palate of
genuine length and freshness. It's long and refreshing, with slightly confectionary fruit, a lemon sherbet texture and
a crisp, crunchy finish that reveals just a hint of sweetness. oClare Valley, 18.1/93, drink 20112014)
Ji
2007
UWS: 93/100
Is particularly wellbalanced in a generous mode; lime and tropical fruit in abundance; good length. Screwcap.
94/100
28 Apr 2011
Floral, lightly tropical riesling aromas of lemon rind and orange peel have a lifted spicy aspect while its palate is
rather broad and angular. Its long, tangy palate of slightly souredged lime juice and lemon finishes austere and
steely, with a hint of spiky acidity. oClare Valley, 16.8/89, drink 20122015)
Ji
2009
UWS: 92/100
Pale and bright strawgreen; the delicate, fresh bouquet has lime and lemon characters that are precisely repeated
on the palate; delicious now, but give it a few years to grow. Screwcap.
90/100
28 Apr 2011
Smooth and stylish, with a scent of white flowers and a typically clear and crystalline presence of lime and guava
like flavour, this very elegant and lightly tropical riesling is both slightly unusual and very intense. Bound by a lively
cut of citrusy acid, it's just a fraction spicy and angular for a higher rating.oClare Valley, $18 retail, approx.,
17.2/90, drink 20142017+)
Ji
12 Jan 2010
Mitchell Cellars | Riesling Watervale
17,200001/20
2004
UWS: 91/100
Firm structure; mineral, herb, spice and citrus; good length.
28 Apr 2011
92/100
What a nice wine. Very fragrant on the nose; it's an alluring blend of tropical fruit, citrus and olive oil. Zesty, crisp
and mouthfilling, its citrus spine supporting white peach and talc flavors. Pleasingly tangy on the finish. Imported by
Click Wine Group.
01 Apr 2006
90/100
A relatively small Clare Valley winery offering attractive prices, Mitchell consistently fashions a tasty, light to
mediumbodied, dry Riesling with plenty of clean citrus (lime and lemon) characteristics. The fresh 2004 should be
enjoyed over the next year.
31 Oct 2005
87/100
A long, fresh and shapely riesling whose vibrant perfume of apple blossom and wet slate precedes a silkysmooth
palate of tangy citrus and applelike fruit. Its palate is juicy and fleshy, with a powdery spine of fine phenolics,
before a bitey and tightly sculpted finish of zesty acids. oClare Valley, $22 retail, approx., 18.6/95, drink 20122016)
08 Jul 2005
18,6/20
Pale gold. Pungent minerally aromas of mint, dried white flowers, coriander, white peach and blood orange. Dry
and crisp in the mouth, with juicy, fresh flavors of ripe pear, quince and lime peel. In both flavor and structure, this
35
reminds me of an Austrian Federspiel. Finishes dry, stony and long.
A relatively small Clare Valley winery offering attractive prices, Mitchell consistently fashions a tasty, light to
mediumbodied, dry Riesling with plenty of clean citrus (lime and lemon) characteristics. The fresh 2004 should be
enjoyed over the next year.
87/100
31 Oct 2005
A long, fresh and shapely riesling whose vibrant perfume of apple blossom and wet slate precedes a silkysmooth
palate of tangy citrus and applelike fruit. Its palate is juicy and fleshy, with a powdery spine of fine phenolics,
before a bitey and tightly sculpted finish of zesty acids. oClare Valley, $22 retail, approx., 18.6/95, drink 20122016)
08 Jul 2005
18,6/20
Pale gold. Pungent minerally aromas of mint, dried white flowers, coriander, white peach and blood orange. Dry
and crisp in the mouth, with juicy, fresh flavors of ripe pear, quince and lime peel. In both flavor and structure, this
reminds me of an Austrian Federspiel. Finishes dry, stony and long.
M
88/100
01 Jul 2005
Mitchell Cellars | Riesling Watervale
2005
UWS: 92/100
Decanter © (DC)
28 Sep 2011
3/5
Aromatic and floral; classically structured fruit, with dry, spicy minerality; classic style. Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
94/100
Light gold. Easygoing pear and peach aromas are supported by a gentle mineral undertone. Spicy citrus flavors
deliver good punch, without any overt tartness or herbal character. In a rather soft style for riesling from Watervale.
01 Jul 2008
87/100
A very classy young riesling whose bony, stony fragrance of rose petals, lime juice and lemon have a slightly
confectionary and musky aspect. Long, fine and tightly sculpted, its chalky palate has a bony presence pierced by
pristine citrus and applelike flavour culminating in an austere and lingering finish. In its youth it perhaps looks
more like an Eden Valley riesling than one from Watervale oClare Valley), although it should flesh out beautifully
with time in the bottle. oClare Valley, $17 retail, approx., 18.6/95, drink 20132017+)
15 Feb 2006
18,6/20
36
M
Jacob's Creek | Chardonnay South Eastern Australia Reserve Bin
2005
UWS: 90/100
Elegant wine; the Limestone Coast components give a touch of grapefruit and white peach; French oak well
integrated, but positive. Excellent value. Cork.
90/100
28 Apr 2011
Smooth, tightly integrated and elegant, with a restrained bouquet of grapefruit, melon and vanilla oak before a juicy,
tangy palate of lemon, melon and green olive flavour, finishing with refreshing acids and a lingering core of citrusy
fruit. oVarious, $18 retail, approx., 16.4/88, drink 20072010)
Ja
Jacob's Creek | Chardonnay South Eastern Australia Reserve Bin
2009
UWS: 90/100
Grapes are harvested in the cool of night and then gently pressed to protect the fruit and minimise phenolic
extraction in the juice. Each batch of juice is kept separately, clarified to different levels and nurtured in barrel for
primary ferment, malolactic fermentation and batonnage. A small proportion of new French oak is used to add
complexity. Additional techniques such as fermentation with wild yeasts impart extra texture, secondary characters
and complexity to the fruit characters. RS 1.1 g/l. 257 stores. Flinty, creamy, buttery bold Australian styling, soft
acid, green apples, dry and with some phenols on the length. (RH)
12 Oct 2011
16+/20
Fresh, lively and distinctive for its apricot overtones, which lend a Rieslinglike cast to the classic Chardonnay
structure and character. This has style and finishes gracefully. Drink now. HS
Ja
McWilliam's Wines | Chardonnay South Eastern Australia Hanwood Estate
2010
UWS: 90/100
100% Chardonnay, 93% of which is grown in the Riverina in New South Wales. The grapes are crushed into
drainers where the premium freerun juice is extracted, chilled and settled for 36 hours. The clear juice is then
racked and warmed to ferment at around 14°C. 70% of the parcels are fermented in stainless steel tanks while the
remaining parcels are fermented in a combination of French oak barriques and hogshead oak barrels. A portion of
this oak component is then put through malolactic fermentation. All parcels are left on yeast lees for up to ten
months to contribute richness to the wine. RS 3.8 g/l. 185 stores. Decent nose, better palate which gives some
mineral depth. Understated oak, crisp acid. (RH)
M
12 Oct 2011
McWilliam's Wines | Riesling South Eastern Australia Hanwood Estate
16/20
2005
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
28 Sep 2011
3/5
37
Tasmania
M
Tamar Ridge Winery | Riesling Tasmania
2004
UWS: 90/100
04 Oct 2012
18,1/20
The initially fearsome acidity to the wine has duly softened and integrated; now has an intense, vibrant and
lingering palate with lime juice and steely acidity in balance.
28 Apr 2011
94/100
Lean, dry and sappy, with a resiny edge to the apple and oatmeal flavors. Tart finish. Drink now through 2009.
4,000 cases made. HS
28 Apr 2011
87/100
The 2004 Riesling is light straw with green highlights. It exhibits aromas of mineral, petrol, honeysuckle and citrus.
This is followed by a ripe wine beginning to show secondary nuances from a couple of years of bottle age. Dry and
crisp in the mouth, it offers lemonlime flavors and a mediumlong finish. It can be enjoyed now but will continue to
evolve for at least another 68 years. Tamar Ridge winery is on the banks of the Tamar River in northern
Tasmania. With vineyards located between 41 and 43 degrees south Latitude, Tamar Ridge has more in common
viticulturally with New Zealand than it does with mainland Australia.
31 Oct 2007
89/100
A classicallystyled Australian Riesling, Tamar Ridge's 2004 offers plenty of mineral and lime scents, wrapped
around a lean, crisp, racy structure and steely flavors of green apples and lime. Long and piquant on the finish, yet
surprisingly elegant at the same time. Drink now, although it should easily hold another five years or so.
01 Jun 2007
90/100
Luscious lime in the middle, with white flower scents adding fragrance to the lasting fruit, this contrasts those high
notes with earthy tones and a touch of fusel minerality. It's tightly built, for pike quenelles or panseared brook trout.
01 Feb 2007
90/100
A bit reduced and suppressed with a hard finish. Good fruit underneath but difficult to get at it.
07 Oct 2006
15/20
38
Victoria
Ta
Chateau Tahbilk | Victoria Marsanne
2004
UWS: 92/100
Bright yellowgreen; balanced honey/honeysuckle; needs a gram more acid.
88/100
28 Apr 2011
One of the best wines yet under this label, with a nutty, honeysuckle fragrance of citrus and lightly reductive, stony
influences. Lean and elegant, its bright and minerally expression of tangy citrus and melon fruit is long and austere,
finishing clean and savoury with racy acids. Keep it if you can. oNagambie Lakes, $20 retail, approx., 17.9/92, drink
20122016)
C
19 Oct 2005
Chateau Tahbilk | Victoria Marsanne
17,9/20
2007
UWS: 94/100
Clean and fragrant; more varietal fruit and flavour than most young marsannes from France or Australia; mineral,
spice and honeysuckle cohabit on a long, crisp finish. A classic in the making. Screwcap.
93/100
28 Apr 2011
Tahbilk's traditional unwooded marsanne has a huge following and a longestablished reputation for its cellaring
qualities. This is the finest for three years, and shows how by introducing elements of chalkiness and texture, its
makers have enhanced and not diminished its varietal qualities. Typically perfumed, with a citrusy, honeysucklelike
scent above a whiff of mineral, it's long, bright and powdery, with a pleasing focus on fruit and refreshingly chiseled
acidity. An elegant and finely crafted wine, which should cellar better than most, it delivers a surprisingly intense
and persistent core of spicy flavour, finishing clean and savoury. oNagambie Lakes, $13 retail approx., 17.6/91,
drink 20152019)
C
23 Apr 2008
Chateau Tahbilk | Viognier Central Victoria
17,6/20
2007
UWS: 90/100
Well made; varietal flavour is achieved without loss of finesse, freshness and length; a delicate apricot and citrus
mix with crisp acidity. Screwcap.
89/100
28 Apr 2011
Scented with cloves, cinnamon and orange blossom, its lime and tangerinelike aromas precede a fresh, citrusy
palate of restrained varietal flavours, with a fine chalky undercarriage and a pleasing length of fruit finished by
crisp, crunchy acids. o16.9/89, YTD 20082009+)
C
26 Apr 2008
Dalwhinnie Wines | Chardonnay Victoria
16,9/20
1993
UWS: 92/100
04 Oct 2012
18,6/20
Medium to full yellowgreen; a very rich, fullydeveloped bouquet showing some evidence of botrytis. All in all, a
hightoned wine with plenty of power and punch, some botrytis influence throughout, augmented by buttery/nutty
oak.
28 Apr 2011
88/100
39
D
1994
UWS: 91/100
28 Apr 2011
18,5/20
Medium to full yellowgreen; the bouquet is solid and rich, with a mix of honeycomb/beeswax and nutty oak aromas.
The palate has lots of flavour and impact, round and mouthfilling, with textured, complex flavours and structure.
28 Apr 2011
91/100
Ripe, buttery and redolent of tropical fruit flavors, particularly a touch of banana, that may not appeal to everyone.
Has a distinctive spicycaramel note on the finish. A big, complex wine. Ready now.
D
28 Feb 1997
87/100
1996
UWS: 91/100
04 Oct 2012
17,799999/20
Medium to full yellowgreen; a quite complex yet nicely restrained bouquet with melon and grapefruit aromas
supported by subtle oak; a long, intense and wellstructured palate with melon and grapefruit flavours, finishing
with good acidity. Has come together exceptionally well.
28 Apr 2011
90/100
I was impressed with Dalwhinnie's 1996 Chardonnay, a wine with an unmistakable minerality, as well as tangy
integrated acidity. Its racy, mineraldominated character, and smoky, hazelnut, lemony, citrusy notes could easily
pass for a topclass premier or grand cru Chablis. A portion of the wine was put through malolactic fermentation,
and it was aged in 100% French oak casks. It is a serious, vibrant Chardonnay that should drink well for 45 years.
31 Oct 1998
89/100
A jazzy mouthful of citrus, passion fruit and honeyhazelnut flavors that swirl and linger on the polished finish, this
has style and harmony and promises to be just lovely by 1999. HS
D
30 Apr 1998
91/100
1997
UWS: 90/100
04 Oct 2012
Decanter © (DC)
18,299999/20
28 Sep 2011
3/5
Medium to full yellowgreen; the bouquet is solid, of moderate to full intensity, subtle oak, and the fruit not
aromatic. On the palate the wine lacks what might be termed fruit penetration, although there is no fault of any
description. Perhaps time will help.
28 Apr 2011
85/100
Dalwhinnie's 1997 Chardonnay offers an intriguing lemony custardlike nose with mineral and steely notes.
Excellent in the mouth, with no real evidence of wood, this is a finessestyled, elegant, mediumbodied yet intensely
concentrated Chardonnay that can be drunk now or cellared for 45 years. A Ted Schrauth Selection, Old Vines
Australia, imported by Epic Wines, Santa Cruz, CA; tel. (408) 6899080, and C. Daniele, New York, NY; tel. (212)
5343421
D
29 Feb 2000
88/100
1998
UWS: 94/100
Medium yellowgreen; a very smooth bouquet with creamy/figgy aromas woven through subtle barrelferment oak; a
fine, understated palate with a mix of cashew,
fig by
and90pluswines.com
more minerally flavours, again supported by subtle oak.
Published
40
Perfect balance and harmony.
UWS: 94/100
Medium yellowgreen; a very smooth bouquet with creamy/figgy aromas woven through subtle barrelferment oak; a
fine, understated palate with a mix of cashew, fig and more minerally flavours, again supported by subtle oak.
Perfect balance and harmony.
28 Apr 2011
91/100
D
1999
UWS: 91/100
04 Oct 2012
16,200001/20
Light to medium yellowgreen; the bouquet is typically clean and smooth, with stone fruit, cashew and oak perfectly
balanced and integrated. The palate is stylish and well balanced, offering a mix of cashew, melon, fig and gentle
oak. Eerily close to the '98.
D
28 Apr 2011
91/100
2000
UWS: 90/100
Light to medium yellowgreen; the bouquet shows obvious toasty barrel ferment characters interwoven with fig,
stone fruit and cashew, the palate with a typically complex web of fruit, barrel ferment and cashew sweeping
through to an ultrasmooth finish.
28 Apr 2011
92/100
Where there's butterscotch and vanilla on the nose, you can bet that it will follow on the palate. There's quite a bit of
it, too—toast and butter—with hints of yellow fruit losing its footing in the process. Fans of the style will find our
rating conservative.
01 Jul 2004
82/100
The outstanding 2000 Chardonnay exhibits a Chablislike minerality along with mouthwatering levels of acidity,
zesty orange rind and lemon oil flavors, and a mediumbodied, intense style. A provocative example, it would be
difficult to pick this out as a typical Australian Chardonnay if tasted blind. Enjoy it over the next several years.
Jeremy Oliver © (JO) 21 Dec 2001 17,700001/20
D
2001
UWS: 93/100
Medium yellowgreen; the smooth bouquet has melon and nectarine fruit interwoven with subtle barrel ferment
inputs; the mediumbodied palate is in typical understated mode, with barrel ferment and malolactic ferment cashew
and melon flavours in seamless balance.
28 Apr 2011
91/100
The 2001 Chardonnay is a deadringer for a classy premier cru ChassagneMontrachet. A beautiful bouquet of
hazelnuts, buttery lemons, pears, allspice, and vanilla emerges from this richly textured, medium to fullbodied
effort. With terrific acidity, fine midpalate intensity, and a long finish, it should drink well for 34 years, perhaps
longer.
31 Oct 2004
92/100
Dusty, restrained and floral aromas of nutty citrus fruit, dried bark and restrained oak are very delicate for this
vineyard. Supple and smooth, it's generous but willowy, with an underlying core of bright melon and citrus fruit
harmoniously knit with spicy sweet clovelike oak influences, before a lingering, dry and savoury finish. 18.0, drink
20062009. o$38 retail, approx.)
Jeremy Oliver © (JO) 16 May 2003 18/20
41
The 2001 Chardonnay is a deadringer for a classy premier cru ChassagneMontrachet. A beautiful bouquet of
hazelnuts, buttery lemons, pears, allspice, and vanilla emerges from this richly textured, medium to fullbodied
effort. With terrific acidity, fine midpalate intensity, and a long finish, it should drink well for 34 years, perhaps
longer.
92/100
31 Oct 2004
Dusty, restrained and floral aromas of nutty citrus fruit, dried bark and restrained oak are very delicate for this
vineyard. Supple and smooth, it's generous but willowy, with an underlying core of bright melon and citrus fruit
harmoniously knit with spicy sweet clovelike oak influences, before a lingering, dry and savoury finish. 18.0, drink
D
2002
UWS: 90/100
Very complex, strong spicy oak; a big wine in every respect, already showing considerable development.
89/100
28 Apr 2011
From the high elevation, cool climate terroir of Moonambel in Victoria, Dalwhinnie produces wines from 100%
estate grown fruit. The outstanding, beautifully made 2002 Chardonnay displays a deceptively evolved light gold
color as well as a youthful, vivacious personality. Scents of honeysuckle, crushed rocks, white currants, pears, and
flowers are reminiscent of a high class premier cru from ChassagneMontrachet. Crisp acidity provides delineation
for this nicely concentrated Chardonnay. Drink it over the next several years.
D
90/100
31 Oct 2005
2003
UWS: 94/100
An elegant, fine wine; stone fruit, subtle oak, and lingering, citrussy acidity seamlessly interwoven; good length.
94/100
28 Apr 2011
An earlydrinking, soft and approachable chardonnay whose floral, nutty fragrance of peaches and vanilla oak
reveals earthy, minerallike undertones. Fullbodied and generous; its sweet core of peachy melon fruit and buttery
malolactic influences overlie a lingering chalkiness. oPyrenees, $34 retail, approx., 17.7/92, drink 20052008)
D
2004
UWS: 95/100
Superelegant, but intense and long; developing slowly, a compliment to the closure; citrus and stone fruit dominate,
oak merely a backdrop. ProCork.
D
95/100
28 Apr 2011
2005
UWS: 92/100
Rich and full in the mouth, surprisingly so at the modest alcohol; peach and nectarine fruit plus solid oak. Diam.
92/100
28 Apr 2011
An ageing, elegant and savoury chardonnay whose creamy, mealy bouquet of toast, honey, dried flowers and
lanolin, reveals waxy undertones of green olives and quince. Initially forward and concentrated, it's soft, buttery and
ready to drink. oPyrenees, $39 retail approx., 16.5/88, drink 20072010)
D
17 Jun 2008
16,5/20
2006
UWS: 94/100
Bright, light colour; a particularly distinguished wine, at once complex yet seamless, the generosity of the fruit
expressed more in structure than flavour, the oak perfectly integrated and balanced; has great line and length.
ProCork.
28 Apr 2011
96/100
Poor flowering in 2006 and a temperate year equaled a stunning 2006 Moonambel Chardonnay. The nose gives a
great intensity of citrus aromas, grapefruit, Published
green mango
and orange peel, with supporting notes of oatmeal cookies
by 90pluswines.com
42
and honeyed toast. Very tight, crisp and fine on the palate, the alcohol is just a shade over 13%, yet there's a
UWS: 94/100
Bright, light colour; a particularly distinguished wine, at once complex yet seamless, the generosity of the fruit
expressed more in structure than flavour, the oak perfectly integrated and balanced; has great line and length.
ProCork.
28 Apr 2011
96/100
Poor flowering in 2006 and a temperate year equaled a stunning 2006 Moonambel Chardonnay. The nose gives a
great intensity of citrus aromas, grapefruit, green mango and orange peel, with supporting notes of oatmeal cookies
and honeyed toast. Very tight, crisp and fine on the palate, the alcohol is just a shade over 13%, yet there's a
wonderful silky texture with a creamy character that perfectly complements the citrus zest. The finish is long with a
suggestion of chalkiness. This makes a superb glass now but should develop evolved nutty notes over the next 3 to 5
years and keep through 2018+. Dalwhinnie does not have a but exports to Canada, Russia, China, Hong Kong,
Malaysia and Singapore.
eRobertParker.com © (WA)
30 Jun 2010
94/100
An elegant, stylish and finely crafted wine whose fractionally under and overripe fruit doesn't quite match the
excellent quality of its oak treatment. Slightly candied aromas of melon, lemon and sweetcorn are backed by dusty
vanilla oak, while its round, smooth and creamy palate reveals pleasing freshness and depth. It finishes quite
savoury, with a lingering waxy presence of clove and cinnamonlike oak.o16.8/89, YTD 20082011+)
D
2007
UWS: 94/100
Deep colour; a complex wine striving for (and finding) the complete gamut of aromas and flavours the winemaker
can get out of the wine; sizzling bacon fat, grilled cashews, grapefruit and a little toasty oak combine to great effect;
the palate vibrates with flavour, and the line is precise long and wonderfully fresh and complex; challenging for
some, but ideal for others. Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
95/100
The 2007 Moonambel Chardonnay is the first year under screw cap for this wine. This vintage has an incredibly
intense nose beginning with pineapple paste, guava and ginger leading into struck matchstick and fresh oats with
hints of fennel and coriander seed. The palate is very crisp with good concentration and a long finish. A little tight
but approachable now, it should give pleasure through 2018. Dalwhinnie does not have a but exports to Canada,
Russia, China, Hong Kong, Malaysia and Singapore.
D
30 Jun 2010
92/100
2010
UWS: 92/100
Dalwhinnie's 2010 Moonamble Chardonnay displays delicate white peach, underripe pineapple, grapefruit and
citrus zest notes with hints of toast, cream and almonds. Mediumbodied, crisp and with great concentration on the
palate, it finishes long and yeasty / creamy. Though approachable now, it's built to age and should cellar to 2017+.
Dalwhinnie does not have an , but exports to Canada, Russia, China, Hong Kong, Malaysia and Singapore.
D
30 Jun 2012
de Bortoli Wines | Chardonnay Victoria Windy Peak
92+/100
2006
UWS: 91/100
Excellent Chablis style really racy. Not quite as minerally as a classic Chablis but wonderfully refreshing. Great
value.
Jancis Robinson © (JR) 25 Mar 2008 16+/20
de
2008
UWS: 92/100
Bright pale green; has vibrantly juicy grapefruit and stone fruit flavours which have largely absorbed the barrel
ferment inputs; very elegant wine. Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
92/100
43
UWS: 92/100
Bright pale green; has vibrantly juicy grapefruit and stone fruit flavours which have largely absorbed the barrel
ferment inputs; very elegant wine. Screwcap.
de
92/100
28 Apr 2011
2009
UWS: 91/100
Fragrant grapefruit blossom and white flesh stone fruit aromas on the bouquet lead into a juicy, fruitdriven palate
with a fresh finish, oak nowhere in the mix, nor even a hint of sugar. Screwcap.
de
91/100
28 Apr 2011
Deakin | Sauvignon Blanc Victoria
2008
UWS: 90/100
Impressive at the price; has fresh tropical fruit aromas, adding citrus/lemon flavours on the palate; not especially
varietal, but well made. Screwcap.
89/100
28 Apr 2011
Another fine release for the price. Pungent, grassy and herbaceous, with a fresh melon and gooseberry aromas
backed by a slightly sweaty whiff of salt bush, it's juicy, round and generous, with a mouthfilling presence. It's more
than adequately long, with a tangy palate wrapped by by fresh lemony acids, finishing with lingering fruit and
herbal influences.o16.5/88, YTD 20092010)
D
11 Apr 2009
Marquee Wine | Victoria Riesling Classic
16,5/20
2005
UWS: 90/100
Tangy, zippy and appealing for its peach and mineral flavors, with lovely floral and green apple notes that linger
appealingly on the finish. Drink now through 2013. 935 cases made. HS
M
Mitchelton Wines | Chardonnay Victoria
1998
UWS: 90/100
Medium yellowgreen; the clean and smooth, moderately intense bouquet has clear melon fruit and subtle oak,
characters repeated on the palate. A light to mediumbodied wine, smooth and correct in every particular, but falls
away slightly on the finish and is not in the class of the '97.
28 Apr 2011
84/100
Here's an assertively oaked chardonnay certain to displease those who dislike that sort of thing, but I find merit in
its ripe fresh peach and citrus flavours, and its round, chewy and savoury texture which balances out with clean
acidity. While there's plenty of wood, it's good tightgrained wood and I do expect this wine to settle nicely with time.
o18.0, Drink 20032006, $40 retail, approx.)
M
Pfeiffer | Victoria Riesling
01 Jan 2001
18/20
2010
UWS: 92/100
Light strawgreen; a delicately crisp and fresh style, with citrus and green apple fruit supported and lengthened by
minerally acidity. No region specified; possibly King Valley, but a superior one. Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
92/100
44
Pf
Preece | Sauvignon Blanc Victoria
2000
UWS: 91/100
Pr
04 Oct 2012
Preece | Sauvignon Blanc Victoria
16,299999/20
2001
UWS: 91/100
Pr
04 Oct 2012
Scotchman's Hill | Chardonnay Geelong
16,299999/20
1996
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
15,6/20
Ripe, spicy and generous with its honeyscented pear and pineapple flavors, hinting at smoke on the round finish.
Texture is wonderful and flavors follow smoothly. Good now, better from 1999. 5,000 cases made. HS
Sc
90/100
30 Apr 1998
2000
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
15,9/20
Medium to full yellowgreen; the moderately complex bouquet has some interesting barrel ferment characters along
with the figgy fruit. The palate delivers ripe fig, peach and cashew flavours, the oak use restrained.
Sc
89/100
28 Apr 2011
2001
UWS: 90/100
04 Oct 2012
15,2/20
Stylish, tangy, citrussy fruit; mediumbodied; good length and oak handling.
Sc
28 Apr 2011
91/100
2005
UWS: 91/100
Wellmade; the focus is on nectarine, melon and citrus fruit which underline the length of the palate; winemaking
inputs of barrel ferment, etc are wellcontrolled. Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
92/100
A rather brassy and buttery chardonnay whose bouquet of butterscotch, toast, honey and vanilla has largely lost its
primary fruit. More generous and lively, its palate offers melon and citrus flavour but does finish short and simple,
with slightly rawedged oak. Frankly, an outdated style, but this is more a result of drought than anything else.
oGeelong, $26 retail, approx., 16.0/87 20072010)
45
Sc
2006
UWS: 91/100
Tasted blind for British Airways Round a very nice drink this minute, but even by July I fear the fruit will have
faded too much. Shame.
Sc
2007
UWS: 94/100
Light strawgreen; as expected, very wellmade, the nectarine fruit framed by precisely weighted French oak;
natural acidity retained by the inhibition of mlf, but texture gained from lees stirring, giving supple mouthfeel.
Screwcap.
Sc
Yabby Lake Vineyard | Mornington Peninsula Chardonnay
28 Apr 2011
94/100
2004
UWS: 91/100
Fractionally deeper greenstraw than the Coralook; restrained complexity to a sophisticated wine; melon, nectarine
and cream on a very fine palate; high quality oak. Cork.
28 Apr 2011
94/100
Light yellow. Smoky, floral aromas of leesy orange, peach and pear, deepened by toasty oak. Lush and round but
also focused, with fresh tangerine and white peach flavors and hints of sweet vanilla and oak spice. Finishes broad
and long, with a lingering element of smoky lees.
01 Jul 2007
89/100
From the cool reaches of Victoria's southern coast, this chardonnay developed robust fruit flavors and plenty of
viscosity. Quietly influenced by its time in oak, the fruit has a roasted pear flavor, finishing clean and long. An
elegant chardonnay for grilled langoustines.
01 Feb 2007
90/100
Lithe and generous, appealing for its peach, pear and slightly resiny aromas and flavors, lingering nicely on the
juicy finish. Drink now through 2008. 200 cases imported. HS
This is not an oaky, or even a rich Chardonnay; instead it treads the understated mineralandpear line. Finishes
with some sour citrus pith and a chalky, smooth feel.
Assertive, ripe and generous, this fullblown chardonnay is destined for a relatively short, but happy existence.
There's a pungent meaty, nutty and charmingly reductive background beneath its funky aromas of peach, nectarine,
wheatmeal and bacon, while its rich, viscous and seamless palate marries ripe stonefruit and pineapple fruit with the
full gamut of winemaking artefact. Sweet but slightly blocky oak with nutty, creamy leesderived qualities contributes
plenty of texture and complexity. oMornington Peninsula, $42 retail, approx., 18.2/93, drink 20062009)
Y
2007
UWS: 95/100
Greengold; fragrant and fine, fruit and oak seamlessly interwoven on the bouquet; the palate is particularly
elegant, with nectarine and white peach on an almost feathery finish. Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
95/100
Complex and heady, with a smoky, spicy bouquet of toasty, honeyed, mealy and butterscotch notes backed by
90pluswines.com
46
nuances of figs and burned matchstick oak.Published
Smoothbyand
evenly paced, its creamy palate of peach, nectarine and
pineapple flavour reveals undertones of wheatmeal and leesy complexity, finishing long and savoury with a chalky
UWS: 95/100
Greengold; fragrant and fine, fruit and oak seamlessly interwoven on the bouquet; the palate is particularly
elegant, with nectarine and white peach on an almost feathery finish. Screwcap.
95/100
28 Apr 2011
Complex and heady, with a smoky, spicy bouquet of toasty, honeyed, mealy and butterscotch notes backed by
nuances of figs and burned matchstick oak. Smooth and evenly paced, its creamy palate of peach, nectarine and
pineapple flavour reveals undertones of wheatmeal and leesy complexity, finishing long and savoury with a chalky
texture. Heavily worked, but should settle down over the short to medium term.o17.9/92, YTD 20092012+)
Y
06 Apr 2009
17,9/20
2008
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC) 08 Aug 2012 3/5
A little smoky, very mineral. Restrained fruit, a slight grip on the finish. Acidity seems better balanced (or settled)
than in the 2009s. (JH)
19 Jul 2011
17/20
Flavorful, but somewhat chunky and direct, Yabby Lake's 2008 Chardonnay features notes of vanilla, citrus and
pear, with only a hint of butter, while the finish of this mediumbodied wine turns crisp and blatantly oaky.
01 Jul 2011
87/100
Brilliant pale strawgreen; fractionally less tightly wound than Block 6, and slightly more white peach and nectarine
components, but still flawless in its purity, line and length. Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
96/100
Light and spicy, with lots of clove and nutmeg weaving through the pear and citrus flavors, remaining light on its
feet. Drink now. 2,000 cases made. HS
28 Apr 2011
88/100
The 2008 Chardonnay has green apple and citrus aromas with some toasty oak and oatmeal. The crisp, medium
bodied palate is just a little lean and tight with a green edge going into the long finish. Drink this now to 2014.
With an emphasis on single vineyard wines that express their region, Yabby Lake only produces wines from estate
grown fruit. They are currently in the process of converting to organic farming. After more than 12 years at Yering
Station, one of Victoria's most skilled winemakers, Tom Carson, has recently joined the Yabby Lake group as Chief
Winemaker and General Manager. Were looking for expression over impression, Tom Carson told me, referring
to their efforts to bring a sense of place to their wines. The expressive new single block releases really exemplify this
statement.
30 Jun 2010
87/100
The 2008 Chardonnay has green apple and citrus aromas with some toasty oak and oatmeal. The crisp, medium
bodied palate is just a little lean and tight with a green edge going into the long finish. Drink this now to 2014.
With an emphasis on single vineyard wines that express their region, Yabby Lake only produces wines from estate
grown fruit. They are currently in the process of converting to organic farming. After more than 12 years at Yering
Station, one of Victorias most skilled winemakers, Tom Carson, has recently joined the Yabby Lake group as Chief
Winemaker and General Manager. Were looking for expression over impression, Tom Carson told me, referring
to their efforts to bring a sense of place to their wines. The expressive new single block releases really exemplify this
statement.
eRobertParker.com © (WA), Lisa PerrottiBrown
30 Jun 2010
87/100
47
Western Australia
Y
Alkoomi Wines | Frankland River Chardonnay
2004
UWS: 90/100
The mediumbodied, smoky, crisp, refreshing 2004 Chardonnay Frankland River sees some French oak, but that
component is kept in the background.
eRobertParker.com © (WA), Robert Parker 31 Dec 2006 87/100
Fine and complex, this smooth, juicy and fruitdriven wine just lacks the impact for a higher score. There's some
funky mineral and wheatmeal complexity beneath its smoky aromas of grapefruit, melon and matchstick oak. Long
and smooth, with a light babyfat texture, its bright citrus, melon and lightly tropical fruit finishes with delicacy and
freshness. oFrankland River, $ 16.9/89, drink 20062009)
Al
Brookland Valley Vineyards | Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc Margaret River
Verse 1
2001
UWS: 90/100
Br
28 Apr 2011
Brookland Valley Vineyards | Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc Margaret River
Verse 1
15,9/20
2009
UWS: 90/100
Attractive and vibrant, cut grass and tropical fruit bouquet; the palate delivers vibrant fruit, and drying, chalky
acidity, making for a refreshing and lively finish. Screwcap.
Br
Cape Mentelle | Sauvignon Blanc-Sémillon Margaret River
28 Apr 2011
90/100
2007
UWS: 90/100
This is an old friend, although not in this vintage; the last I tasted was the 2005. There is a touch of methylpyrazine
to the nose, which has a very brisk and typical style. It is lively, yet rich and fleshy, and fairly substantial in the
mouth. Overall though it is rather soft in composition, and it has a rather flat finish. A bit short, too. It is good,
though.
Wine Doctor © (WD) 17 Mar 2012 15/20
Sophisticated winemaking; a harmonious and seamless fusion of the two varieties and partial barrel ferment; has
length and intensity. Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
94/100
Classic Semillon aromas of hay and quince create an intriguing but subtle opening act while the simpler palate
displays some attractive cutgrass notes from the Sauvignon Blanc. A good partner for flavorful shellfish
preparations.
01 Feb 2009
86/100
Producer: Moët Hennessy. 53% Sauvignon Blanc, 47% Semillon. Stainless steal tanks with 8% fermented in new
French oak and American oak barriques and left on lees for 12 weeks. Screw cap. Cool and palatefilling, lacking
a little fruit on the mid palate though. Could be a bit brighter.
Jancis Robinson © (JR) 28 Nov 2008 15/20
Delicate and lightly grassy, with a vibrant presence of gooseberries, melon, tropical fruits and passionfruit, this
pristine and crystalclear white blend is round
and by
juicy,
with pleasing length, freshness and focus. It's clean and
Published
90pluswines.com
48
racy, with a tangy, almost briney finish. It's just a fraction too syrupy for an even higher rating. oMargaret River,
$23 retail approx., 17.8/92, drink 20082009+)
Classic Semillon aromas of hay and quince create an intriguing but subtle opening act while the simpler palate
displays some attractive cutgrass notes from the Sauvignon Blanc. A good partner for flavorful shellfish
preparations.
01 Feb 2009
86/100
Producer: Moët Hennessy. 53% Sauvignon Blanc, 47% Semillon. Stainless steal tanks with 8% fermented in new
French oak and American oak barriques and left on lees for 12 weeks. Screw cap. Cool and palatefilling, lacking
a little fruit on the mid palate though. Could be a bit brighter.
Delicate and lightly grassy, with a vibrant presence of gooseberries, melon, tropical fruits and passionfruit, this
pristine and crystalclear white blend is round and juicy, with pleasing length, freshness and focus. It's clean and
racy, with a tangy, almost briney finish. It's just a fraction too syrupy for an even higher rating. oMargaret River,
$23 retail approx., 17.8/92, drink 20082009+)
25 Jul 2008
17,799999/20
Light and tangy, with pretty mintaccented green apple and passion fruit flavors, lingering gently on the fresh,
harmonious finish. Drink now. 3,000 cases imported. HS
Ca
30 Apr 2008
Evans & Tate | Chardonnay Margaret River
87/100
2005
UWS: 90/100
Light strawgreen; light to mediumbodied with sweet nectarine and melon fruit on entry; oak restrained throughout.
Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
91/100
The company may be going through a troubled time, but based on this showing, the winemaking seems as sound as
ever. Vanilla and toast elements are nicely integrated with the pear fruit, which adds a fresh, citrusy note on the
finish. Mediumbodied, this seems nicely suited as a partner to mild chicken dishes where the subtle nutmeg and
cinnamon spice notes will come to the fore. Drink now.
01 Feb 2007
89/100
Polished and juicy with limescented apple and star fruit flavors, finishing with a refreshing lilt of acidity and a
touch of creamy oak. Drink now through 2010. 19,000 cases made. HS
Ev
30 Sep 2006
90/100
2006
UWS: 90/100
Citrus and nutty lees flecked with spicy, buttery peach and melon fruit. Tight, elegant, almost skinny Western
Australian style, with big lemon, butter, peach, green apple skin and and lees flavours. Drink now with seafood or
cellar for 3 to 5 years. A fresh, tart finish to go with food.
28 Jan 2012
89/100
28 Apr 2011
17/20
Wellmade; nectarine and melon fruit complexed by carefully controlled barrel fermentation and other winemaker
inputs; good mouthfeel and weight. Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
92/100
28 Feb 2009
87/100
White values $20 and under. Tasted and recommended, but no tasting note given.
This topnotch effort from Evans & Tate starts off with layers of elegant oak resembling roasted nuts and crème
brûlée, but backs those notes with plenty of honeyed citrus flavors. This flamboyant example of Margaret River
Chardonnay should be relatively easy to find in the U.S., with 9,000 cases imported.
01 Jun 2008
90/100
Tasted blind for British Airways Very light and tight. Something a little chemical on the nose. Light lemony
flavours. Correct, but not that exciting.
A juicy mouthful of peachaccented pear and pineapple fruit, finishing with a stony note that carries the flavors
through the generous finish. Drink now through 2012. 24,000 cases made. HS
15 Oct 2007
89/100
The bright lemoncitrus flavor in this chardonnay maintains its zest and freshness above rounder tones of oak. A
touch of Indian Ocean brininess will meld with white sausages.
Wine and
Spirit Mag © (WSM)
01 Oct 2007
89/100
49
90/100
01 Jun 2008
Tasted blind for British Airways Very light and tight. Something a little chemical on the nose. Light lemony
flavours. Correct, but not that exciting.
A juicy mouthful of peachaccented pear and pineapple fruit, finishing with a stony note that carries the flavors
through the generous finish. Drink now through 2012. 24,000 cases made. HS
89/100
15 Oct 2007
The bright lemoncitrus flavor in this chardonnay maintains its zest and freshness above rounder tones of oak. A
touch of Indian Ocean brininess will meld with white sausages.
Ev
89/100
01 Oct 2007
2007
UWS: 90/100
A powerful wine with ripe grapefruit on the bouquet and complex spicy character from the well handled oak; very
fine acidity draws the palate out to a long and even finish. Screwcap.
93/100
28 Apr 2011
Tight, crisp and bracing, with sharply focused apple, pineapple and lime flavors, persisting nicely on the zingy
finish. Drink now through 2012. 15,000 cases made. HS
Ev
2008
UWS: 91/100
Lifted tropical fruits on the nose of lemon, lime and spice, with a hint of orange creamsicle. Finely balanced on the
palate, with just enough oak to let the fruit call the shots. Easy to drink and a good, nofuss wine. Drink outside or
inside, with what ever you think might work.
87/100
28 Jan 2012
Vivid hue, star bright; quite a restrained bouquet, showing fine aromas of grapefruit, nectarine and just the merest
hint of spice from wellhandled oak; the palate is dominated by fresh citrus fruit, with the acidity driving the wine for
a considerable time; a suggestion of oak follows thorough on the very long, and evenly balanced finish. Screwcap.
Ev
95/100
28 Apr 2011
Evans & Tate | Margaret River Semillon
1996
UWS: 91/100
Decanter © (DC)
28 Sep 2011
28 Apr 2011
3/5
17,5/20
Light to medium yellowgreen; an outrageously seductive wine from start to finish, with subtle spicy barrelferment
oak intermingling with fruit of light to medium intensity, tinged with passionfruit on the bouquet, leading on to a
delicate palate with beguiling, soft fruit flavours; more sophisticated than classic.
Ev
28 Apr 2011
88/100
1998
UWS: 90/100
04 Oct 2012
17,200001/20
Light yellowgreen; the bouquet is clean, fairly light, with herbal/grassy/minerally notes. The wine is helped by some
sweetness on the midpalate but does not make much of a statement about its varietal origins.
Ev
28 Apr 2011
86/100
1999
UWS: 90/100
04 Oct 2012
17,200001/20
Published
90pluswines.com
50
Light greenyellow; the bouquet is bright, fresh
and by
crisp
with some mineral and passionfruit aromas; the palate is
gentle, nicely balanced, although not particularly concentrated.
UWS: 90/100
04 Oct 2012
17,200001/20
Light greenyellow; the bouquet is bright, fresh and crisp with some mineral and passionfruit aromas; the palate is
gentle, nicely balanced, although not particularly concentrated.
Ev
87/100
28 Apr 2011
2002
UWS: 90/100
Complex wine; skilled partial barrel ferment; long, multiflavoured palate; hints of passionfruit and gooseberry.
Ev
90/100
28 Apr 2011
2003
UWS: 91/100
A pungent and vegetal semillon with a dusty bouquet of asparagus and capsicum over sweet and lightly smoky,
buttery vanilla oak. Its round, generous and juicy expression of lemony, honeydew melonlike fruit is backed by
nettlelike herbaceous qualities and assertive oak. Acceptable, but a little too herbaceous. oMargaret River, $16
retail, approx., 16.3/87, drink 20052008+)
Ev
07 Jul 2005
16,299999/20
2005
UWS: 91/100
Lightly sweaty, herbaceous aromas of melon, citrus and tropical fruits precede a clean, juicy palate whose
pleasingly restrained but penetrative fruit finish slightly sappy and metallic. Flavoursome and earlydrinking.
oMargaret River, $20 retail, approx., 16.5/88, drink 20062007)
Ev
15 Jul 2006
Evans & Tate | Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc Margaret River Classic
16,5/20
2006
UWS: 90/100
Clean, fresh and crisp; no varieties are stated, but it is in a citrus spectrum, with good acidity. Screwcap.
88/100
28 Apr 2011
Clean, approachable and moderately intense, this lightly herbal wine presents juicy passionfruit and tropical
flavours and smoky, capsicumlike undertones finished by a lively, zesty acidity. oMargaret River, $14 retail,
approx., 16.2/87, drink 20062007+)
Ev
16 Oct 2007
Houghton | Chardonnay Western Australia
16,200001/20
2001
UWS: 92/100
04 Oct 2012
17,9/20
Light to medium yellowgreen; strong, spicy barrel ferment oak dominates the bouquet, but the underlying crisply
elegant, delicate fruit comes through on the palate, suggesting patience will be well rewarded. Gold medal Royal
Sydney Wine Show 2002.
28 Apr 2011
89/100
51
H
2002
UWS: 91/100
04 Oct 2012
17,6/20
A complex, pleasantly funky bouquet; a nicely weighted and balanced palate, with a perfectly glorious, dry finish.
28 Apr 2011
95/100
Tasted blind for British Airways in March 2008 Very deep gold. A bit heavy and evolved on the nose, even
borderline oxidation. Flabby and over the top.
H
2003
UWS: 95/100
Bright greenstraw; superelegant grapefruit, melon and stone fruit; delicate malolactic and barrel ferment
influences; long and supple. Quality cork.
28 Apr 2011
94/100
Complete and balanced chardonnay whose lightly tropical aromas of melon and peach are tightly integrated with
restrained sweet vanilla oak. Long and seamless, the palate reveals a luxuriantly creamy texture bursting with
intense flavours of pineapple, peaches and ruby grapefruit before finishing with refreshingly clean citrusy acids.
Very smooth and harmonious, with lightly toasty oak playing second fiddle. o18.2, 20052008+)
H
03 Jul 2004
18,200001/20
2006
UWS: 95/100
Glorious greenyellow colour; intense line and length, with coolgrown grapefruit and nectarine flavours; fine
acidity, oak a support role.
H
28 Apr 2011
95/100
2007
UWS: 94/100
Tight and focused, balanced and stylish, this bright, mineral and refreshing young chardonnay offers a rather brittle
and crystalline expression of pineapple, ruby grapefruit and tropical fruit backed by sweet bubblegum and vanilla
oak. It's long and powdery, with a lingering core of fruit that finishes with pleasing balance and notes of sour lemon
and fresh acid.o17.5/91, YTD 20092012+)
H
2009
UWS: 91/100
Bright and vivid hue; the bouquet is full of grapefruit and spiced nectarine, with a delicate seasoning of high quality
French oak; this is followed by a lively aciddriven palate, revealing a trace of mineral and toasty oak on the finish.
Screwcap.
H
Howard Park Wines | Chardonnay Western Australia
28 Apr 2011
91/100
1996
52
UWS: 93/100
Medium yellowgreen; a beautifully crafted wine from start to finish, with fine melon/grapefruit aromas backed up
by the sophisticated use of highquality French oak on the bouquet. A fine, long, supple palate with powerful fruit
(the wine has 14 degrees alcohol) is similarly surrounded by gently spiced oak. Retasted October '97; retains
delicacy, and unquestionably headed for a long life.
95/100
28 Apr 2011
28 Apr 2011
17,5/20
The 1996 Chardonnay is a 100% barrelfermented effort that has been aged in new French oak. This wine has
obviously had the full Burgundian treatment of lees stirring, etc. It might be outstanding, but I knocked a point or
two off because the oak seemed a trifle elevated. Everything else was impressive. The moderately intense aromatics
offer up smoke, roasted hazelnuts, and plenty of leesy, buttery fruit. In the mouth, the wine is powerful, rich, and full
bodied, with admirable glycerin and length (it tips the scales at 14% alcohol). It should drink well for another year.
H
31 Oct 1998
Howard Park Wines | Chardonnay Western Australia
89/100
2004
UWS: 91/100
Very fragrant and pure citrus, apple, grapefruit, stone fruit and grapefruit aromas and flavours; great line and
balance; fruit has easily swallowed the oak. Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
96/100
Crisp and peppery, with lots of spice to enliven the modest citrus and green apple flavors. Drink now through 2008.
3,150 cases made. HS
28 Apr 2011
86/100
The 2004 Chardonnay was not put through malolactic but 65% was raised in new barrels. The wine is currently
tight, crisp, and clean and should have more to offer in 12 years.
Not tropical or woody; flavors stay the pear and citrus track (there's even a hint of SBlike grassiness), while a stony
smoothness seals the deal. It's an acidic, foodfriendly style, but not a terribly round one—and that's fine,
particularly when ceviche or salads are on the menu.
01 Oct 2006
88/100
A polished and beautifully integrated chardonnay whose crystalbright flavours of grapefruit, pineapple and quince
knit seamlessly and harmoniously with dusty, nutty vanilla oak and refreshingly citrusy acids. Its aroma reveals
undertones of cloves and cinnamon, while its smooth, supple and creamy palate culminates in a tightly focused and
mineral finish. oGreat Southern, 18.7/95, drink 20092012)
H
05 Jul 2006
Howard Park Wines | Riesling Western Australia
18,700001/20
1997
UWS: 90/100
04 Oct 2012
18,299999/20
An impressive Riesling from Australia, Howard Park's 1997 exhibits an unmistakable citrusy/limescented nose.
Lightbodied and dry, it offers an exuberant, fresh, crisp style that is endearing. Doubters who think Riesling can
only reach such heights in Alsace, Austria, or Germany need to take a look at some of Australia's finer efforts.
31 Oct 1998
87/100
Dried and exotic fruits on the nose, along with an intriguing mealy quality. Intensely flavored, juicy and penetrating;
hints at very ripe tropical fruit yet offers great cut, thanks to strong acidity. Very dry, very dense and quite long, with
terrific finishing flavor of pink grapefruit. Superb Australian riesling.
01 Jul 1998
90/100
Light, lithe and subtle. A pretty wine with almond and mineral overtones to the delicate pear flavors. Finishes a bit
raw now, but should be terrific by 1999. HS Published by 90pluswines.com
53
30 Apr 1998
86/100
04 Oct 2012
18,299999/20
An impressive Riesling from Australia, Howard Park's 1997 exhibits an unmistakable citrusy/limescented nose.
Lightbodied and dry, it offers an exuberant, fresh, crisp style that is endearing. Doubters who think Riesling can
only reach such heights in Alsace, Austria, or Germany need to take a look at some of Australia's finer efforts.
31 Oct 1998
87/100
Dried and exotic fruits on the nose, along with an intriguing mealy quality. Intensely flavored, juicy and penetrating;
hints at very ripe tropical fruit yet offers great cut, thanks to strong acidity. Very dry, very dense and quite long, with
terrific finishing flavor of pink grapefruit. Superb Australian riesling.
01 Jul 1998
90/100
Light, lithe and subtle. A pretty wine with almond and mineral overtones to the delicate pear flavors. Finishes a bit
raw now, but should be terrific by 1999. HS
H
30 Apr 1998
Howard Park Wines | Riesling Western Australia
86/100
2005
UWS: 91/100
The 2005 Riesling is a dry, crisp offering. It features a nose with slate and mineral aspects, and would make a fine
accompaniment to spicy Asian cuisine.
Very distinctive somehow more veg than mineral but there is lime fruit in spades on this supertingly, superfresh
wine.
07 Oct 2006
17/20
Acidic, refreshing, very dry and very citrusy. Offers bright citrus, mineral and melon aromas, along with lemon and
grapefruit flavors. A good bet if seafood is on the menu, or if the temperature outside is soaring.
01 Oct 2006
89/100
A fine, shapely and tightly focused riesling of elegance and intensity. Its piercing, floral perfume of lime juice and
lemon rind reveals a hint of mineral, while its long and marginally candied palate of lemon/lime flavour and
bathpowderlike undertones delivers plenty of juicy fruit sweetness. The finish is long and persistent, punctuated by
slightly souredged acids. oGreat Southern, $ 18.2/93, drink 20102013+)
H
01 Jul 2006
Leeuwin Estate | Margaret River Riesling Art Series
18,200001/20
2006
UWS: 90/100
Bright strawgreen; fresh, crisp, bright and lively; citrus and mineral flavours with good length; the bestseller in
the Leeuwin stable. Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
91/100
W_Riesling Australia. #1; COLORgolden; NOSEnot too fruity; petrol and burnt tire action; a little apple and
pear; PALATEthis is bone dry; intriguing minerality almost like crushed rock meets pears and apples (a fruit
salad with some rocks); good acidity; really well made wine; showing really made; exceptional value at $14 bones;
JM90; GV90
Wine Lib TV © (WLTV) 16 Dec 2010 90/100
01 Jul 2009
88/100
Tart, taut and focused, aiming its grassy green apple and lime flavors right down the middle. Drink now through
Tight, and zesty, this spicy, floral riesling presents an intense array of pear, peach, apple and lime flavours with
lifted floral qualities. Its long, refreshing palate is round and mouthfilling before a bracingly clear, slightly mineral
and phenolic finish of bright, chalky acids. oMargaret River, 16.8/89, drink 20082011+)
The light strawcolored 2006 Riesling Art Series exhibits a bouquet of mineral, spring flowers, and lemonlime.
This leads to a dry, crisp wine with plenty of citrus fruit, ripe flavors, excellent concentration, and a lengthy finish.
Although it can be enjoyed now, particularly with raw bar, it will evolve for up to a decade in the manner of a top
Mosel Riesling. Leeuwin Estate is one of the benchmark wineries of Western Australia. Both reds and whites
exhibit cool climate character and European elegance.
31 Oct 2007
90/100
Light, tight nose. Bone dry. Very introvert not enough nose for the moment, though pretty delicate texture. Not
obviously Riesling! (To which I would add the query: is Margaret River really Riesling country?)
54
Jancis Robinson © (JR) 23 Oct 2007 15,5/20
and phenolic finish of bright, chalky acids. oMargaret River, 16.8/89, drink 20082011+)
The light strawcolored 2006 Riesling Art Series exhibits a bouquet of mineral, spring flowers, and lemonlime.
This leads to a dry, crisp wine with plenty of citrus fruit, ripe flavors, excellent concentration, and a lengthy finish.
Although it can be enjoyed now, particularly with raw bar, it will evolve for up to a decade in the manner of a top
Mosel Riesling. Leeuwin Estate is one of the benchmark wineries of Western Australia. Both reds and whites
exhibit cool climate character and European elegance.
90/100
31 Oct 2007
Light, tight nose. Bone dry. Very introvert not enough nose for the moment, though pretty delicate texture. Not
obviously Riesling! (To which I would add the query: is Margaret River really Riesling country?)
23 Oct 2007
15,5/20
Light straw. Strong citrus and spice aromas are complicated by jasmine and mint. Strikingly fresh, with vivid
tangerine and pear flavors, chewy texture and a long, penetrating finish. A dry, clean, refreshing riesling, in a
typical style for Leeuwin.
Le
Leeuwin Estate | Margaret River Sauvignon Blanc/
Semillon Siblings
01 Jul 2007
90/100
2007
UWS: 90/100
Mouthwatering and generous with its citrus and apple flavors, plus an aromatic layer of fresh hay from the Sémillon
in the blend. Drink now. 1,200 cases imported. HS
Greengold. Impressively complex aromas of lime, grapefruit, freshcut grass, anise and chili pepper. Racy and
sharply focused, with citrus and mineral flavors brightened by white pepper and dusty minerals. Leaves strong spicy
notes behind on the long, zesty finish.
01 Jul 2008
89/100
Taut and focused, with lightly mineral aromas of gooseberries, passionfruit, snow pea and nettles. Initially round
and juicy, it extends well down the palate, becoming crisp and clean, with a finely powdered undercarriage. It
finishes with a hint of quite herbaceous and slightly underripened semillon. oMargaret River, $28 retail approx.,
17.0/90, drink 20082009)
55
White Wines Austria
Kamptal
Le
Schloss Gobelsburg | Riesling Gobelsburger
2005
UWS: 91/100
Like the grüner veltliner, Gobelsbgurger riesling also outperformed its price in 2005. This feels like silk, with a full
core of apricotty fragrance held in taut suspension by minerals and acidity. It's sleek and racy, clear and precise.
92/100
01 Apr 2007
The 2005 Riesling Gobelsburg represents an excellent value from this address. Cool, minty, lime, and tealike
aromas lead to a juicy, bright, faintly bittersweet palate impression and a finish not without a distinctively salty,
pungent sense of minerality. Also recommended: 2005 Riesling Urgestein ($23.00; 86), 2004 Riesling Tradition
($41.00; 86+?), 2004 St. Laurent Klassik (not available; 86+?).
eRobertParker.com © (WA), David Schildknecht 31 Aug 2006 86/100
Very perfumed even though it is showing a little bit of reduction at the moment (struck match aromas). Deliciously
crisp yet rich in extract on the mid palate. Denser fruit concentration than many Rieslings of this vintage. (JH)
Sc
25 Feb 2006
Schloss Gobelsburg | Riesling Gobelsburger
17,5/20
2008
UWS: 92/100
A perennial value, this delivers yet again with its lively, fragrant depth of pear and citrus fruit. It's supple in texture
and subtle in nuance, intertwining its fruit flavors with salty notes of minerality on the long finish.
Sc
Summerer | Gruner Veltliner Qualitatswein Trocken Kamptal Langenloiser
Schenkenbichl
01 Apr 2010
92/100
2006
UWS: 90/100
A big powerdriven wine, all concentrated spice and sweet fruit. Lovers of Alsace wines will appreciate the richness
of this wine, with its flavors of white fruits touched with pepper and its rounded, opulent texture.
Displays a creamy aroma, with flavors of peach cobbler, apple butter, spice and apricot on a broad structure. the
ripe finish echoes the flavors. Drink now through 2012. 330 cases made. KM
Wine Spectator © (WS), Kim Marcus
15 Jun 2008
89/100
56
White Wines Austria
Kremstal
Su
Weingut Sepp Moser | Riesling Qualitatswein Trocken Kremstal Von Den
Terrassen
2006
UWS: 90/100
Racy, with citrus, green apple and peach flavors that are very fresh and focused. The finish is filled with lemon zest
and mineral. Best from 2009 through 2015. KM
Wine Spectator © (WS), Kim Marcus 31 May 2008 90/100
57
White Wines Austria
Other
W
Weinberghof Fritsch | Gruner Veltliner Schlossberg
2005
UWS: 90/100
Light and tight on the nose. Off dry, mildly peppery. Quite rich and therefore a pretty good introduction to the
variety (because slightly exaggerated). Fades a bit fast. Sweet finish.
Jancis Robinson © (JR) 22 Aug 2007 16,5/20
Medium greenyellow. Exotic fruit aromas of pineapple and mango complicated by smoky spices and anise. Full and
firm in the mouth, with a deep, sweet impression of extract. Tropical fruit flavors are lifted by yellow apple. At once
powerful, focused and elegant veltliner with very good balance. Finishes with a tobacco nuance. Truly a superb
example of the vintage, and a wine with considerable aging potential. Drink 2008 to 2015.
International Wine Cellar © (IWC), Peter Moser 01 Nov 2006 93/100
Fritsch's 2005 Gruner Veltliner Windspiel is the latest in a long, successful line of lightweight Gruner Veltliner at
this address, and represents an excellent value. (The name meaning wind play has now been put into service for
other varietals as well.) Chasselaslike aromas of hay and almond usher in a delicate yet glossy palate, and subtly
salty white pepper and beet root complete this discreet but attractive and satisfyingly juicy Veltliner. Also
recommended: 2005 Zweigelt Windspiel (unknown; 84), 2005 Gruner Veltliner Steinberg (unknown; 85+?).
W
Weingut Hirsch | Gruner Veltliner 1
2008
UWS: 90/100
Pale greenyellow. A brisk nose features green apple and grapefruit zest. Lightbodied and crisp, with a lively acid
structure. A dominant flavor of juicy green apple gives this wine a refreshing quality. Enjoy now through 2016.
International Wine Cellar © (IWC), Peter Moser 01 Nov 2009 90/100
W
Weingut Kurt Angerer | Gruner Veltliner Kies
2010
UWS: 90/100
Lemon, orange, lentil, gooseberry and waxed bean mark Angerer's 2010 Gruner Veltliner Kies, whose levity,
brightness, and zest are characteristic of virtues that emerge from Gruner Veltliner in this unusual vintage. In this
instance, success was achieved by taking some lots through malo. A subtly silken texture; emerging aura of lilac;
and exuberantly juicy finish add to the infectious charm of a wine I would plan on enjoying over the next year or
two. It was difficult quantitywise, beginning with a small number of bunches in the first place, says Kurt Angerer
of 2010, but we managed the quality by harvesting late none of the Gruner Veltliner until midNovember and
bottling late as well. All of the black grapes were pressed as rose: they were simply not ripe and too high in acid.
Nor did Muskateller, Viognier, or Angerer's white Burgundian varieties fare all that much better than his reds;
though it must be noted that threequarters of his now nearly hundred acres of vines are Gruner Veltliner. De
acidification was practiced selectively and in the case of Riesling the process was ongoing even when I visited in
June, rendering it impossible to offer an assessment of likely results. (For comments on the sites Angerer farms,
consult especially my notes on his 2006s in issue 177.)
eRobertParker.com © (WA), David Schildknecht
W
Weingut Nigl | Gruner Veltliner Gartling
31 Oct 2011
90/100
2004
UWS: 90/100
We began with his 2004 Gruner Veltliner Gartling, a cuvee that Nigl's importer and he some years ago decided was
light and throwaway enough to be dispensed with in the American market, which is a shame considering the quality.
A beautifully floral nose featuring clover and honeysuckle leads to a light, but intensely flavored, subtly creamy,
wafting, billowing palate pitting pear fruit against flowers and salty mineral notes. The acidity is actually quite high
here, but you notice it only in terms of thePublished
wine's lift,
vivacity and length. This is the epitome of light wine. The
by 90pluswines.com
58
grapes were not picked until the 25th of October, which marked the beginning of the harvest at Nigl.
White Wines Austria
UWS: 90/100
We began with his 2004 Gruner Veltliner Gartling, a cuvee that Nigl's importer and he some years ago decided was
light and throwaway enough to be dispensed with in the American market, which is a shame considering the quality.
A beautifully floral nose featuring clover and honeysuckle leads to a light, but intensely flavored, subtly creamy,
wafting, billowing palate pitting pear fruit against flowers and salty mineral notes. The acidity is actually quite high
here, but you notice it only in terms of the wine's lift, vivacity and length. This is the epitome of light wine. The
grapes were not picked until the 25th of October, which marked the beginning of the harvest at Nigl.
59
White Wines Austria
Vienna Region
W
Weingut Roman & Adelheid Pfaffl | Austria Wien 1
2010
UWS: 90/100
Field blend of Riesling, Grüner Veltliner and Pinot Blanc. No oak. Fresh green fruits and quince. Mineral too.
Grapefruitpith freshness and still creamy with touch of RS (4.7 g/l) to round out that lively acidity. (JH)
08 Feb 2012
16/20
60
White Wines Chile
Casablanca Valley
W
Arboleda Wines | Casablanca Valley Chardonnay
2005
UWS: 90/100
No tasting note was given.
30 Jun 2007
90/100
A bigtime effort for Arboleda. The wine hits with copious but balanced wood, which creates a strong blast of
popcorn on the nose. The mouthfeel is sturdy and intense, with nectarine, honey and toast flavors.
Ar
01 Oct 2006
Casas del Bosque Estate | Chardonnay Casablanca Valley Reserve
90/100
2009
UWS: 90/100
Light yellow. Orange zest and pear aromas are complemented by deeper pit fruit and anise qualities. Fleshy and
smooth but energetic as well, showing smoky pear and citrus flavors and nuances of jasmine and sweet butter.
Displays smoky, spicy qualities on the sappy, mineralaccented finish.
International Wine Cellar © (IWC), Josh Raynolds 01 May 2011 89/100
Aromas of incense, balsamic, herbs, lavender, and blueberry; ripe, savory, rich, lengthy.
Ca
Casas del Bosque Estate | Sauvignon Blanc Casablanca Valley Reserve
2004
UWS: 91/100
Decanter © (DC)
28 Sep 2011
4/5
Pungent and prickly, with a promise of sass to come. Solid citrus dominates the mouth, as grapefruit, snap pea and
lime flavors add nuance. Fresh and chalky in terms of feel, with spotless varietal character. Good Casablanca
Sauvignon. Multiple U.S. importers.
Ca
Casas del Bosque Estate | Sauvignon Blanc Casablanca Valley Reserve
2007
UWS: 91/100
Medium straw. Piercingly aromatic nose offers vibrant, mineraldriven scents of lime zest, quince and white flowers,
with a white pepper overtone. Bright and impressively focused, with vivid citrus and orchard fruit flavors, bracing
minerality and a long, sappy finish. This shows excellent clarity and balance.
International Wine Cellar © (IWC), Josh Raynolds 01 Mar 2008 90/100
80% was aged in oak and the older vines with better exposure are selected for the Reserva. Less aromatic than the
straight Sauvignon but much more concentrated in every other respect. Oak is well done. (JH)
Ca
18 Jan 2008
Concha Y Toro | Casablanca Valley Sauvignon Blanc Terrunyo Block 28
16,5+/20
2007
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
IWine Review © (IWR)
23 Jan 2013
28 Jan 2012
3/5
90/100
Lean and bracing at first, with flint and lime notes, this slowly opens to show more gooseberry, chive flower and sea
by 90pluswines.com
61
salt flavors that ripple through the lengthy,Published
mouthwatering
finish. Drink now through 2009. 8,800 cases made. JM
Wine Spectator © (WS), James Molesworth 15 May 2008 90/100
White Wines Chile
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
23 Jan 2013
3/5
90/100
28 Jan 2012
Lean and bracing at first, with flint and lime notes, this slowly opens to show more gooseberry, chive flower and sea
salt flavors that ripple through the lengthy, mouthwatering finish. Drink now through 2009. 8,800 cases made. JM
C
Santa Rita | Sauvignon Blanc Casablanca Valley Reserve
2011
UWS: 94/100
Decanter © (DC)
10 Oct 2012
5/5
Greentinged straw. Grapefruit and herbs on the pungent nose. A dry but fleshy midweight that offers plump, slightly
warm citrus and orchard fruit flavors. Finishes with good breadth and lingering tarragon and honey notes.
Sa
Viña Quintay | Sauvignon Blanc Casablanca Valley
2007
UWS: 90/100
The 2007 Sauvignon Blanc Quintay offers a bit more class and complexity with layered flavors and a lengthy, fruit
filled finish. It will provide pleasure over the next 12 years.
88/100
31 Oct 2008
This is rocksolid, with mouthwatering lime, sea salt and sweet pea flavors backed by a bracing, thymetinged finish.
Has a latent richness. Drink now. 2,000 cases imported. JM
Wine Spectator © (WS), James Molesworth
89/100
15 Jun 2008
This offers chalky aromas and tight, mineral acidity that keeps it restrained and youthfully severe. With air, it shows
some herbal character, but the chalky component prevails, creating the sensation that this was made from stones
rather than fruit. A good match with sea urchin.
01 Jun 2008
91/100
18 Jan 2008
16+/20
Very very crisp and taut, fresh intense grassy style. (JH)
Vi
Viña Quintay | Sauvignon Blanc Casablanca Valley Clava
2011
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
10 Oct 2012
3/5
62
White Wines Chile
Central Valley
Vi
Concha Y Toro | Sauvignon Blanc Central Valley Casillero del Diablo
2009
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
28 Sep 2011
3/5
63
White Wines Chile
Curico Valley
C
Vina Montes | Sauvignon Blanc Curicó Valley Fumé Blanc Reserve
1997
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
28 Sep 2011
4/5
This lush, vanillascented white has distinctive personality, with a nice mix of oaky and citrusy flavors, and enough
acidity to keep it fresh. Not a classic Sauvignon Blanc, but will please fans of oak. Drink now. 12,000 cases made.
TM
Wine Spectator © (WS), Thomas Matthews 31 May 1998 84/100
64
White Wines Chile
Maipo Valley
Vi
Vina Santa Ema | Maipo Valley Chardonnay Reserva
2011
UWS: 90/100
The 2011 Reserva Chardonnay is whole bunch pressed and raised on its lees for eight months in French and
American oak. It has a fresh, crisp bouquet with lime flower and lemon peel scents, a touch of vanilla pod in the
background. The palate offers ripe green apple and mango on the entry. The acidity is crisp and the finish,
harmonious and long, with just the right amount of nuanced oak on the finish. This is a well made Chardonnay at a
great price. Drink now2015. Santa Ema traces its roots back to 1956 when Don Pedro and his son, Felix Pavone
Arbea, began making wine and selling it to restaurants and shops. This was one of the more satisfying tastings from
Chile: a dependable set of wines with some excellent entrylevel varietals that punched above their weight. More
thought seems to have gone into these wines that exhibited fine balance and freshness and, to be honest, it was only
at the premium end that they succumbed to excessive new oak that blotted out what appeared to be some excellent
fruit. Still, overall, Santa Ema is certainly producing wines that show what Cachapoal can do? in the right hands.
eRobertParker.com © (WA), Neal Martin 31 Dec 2012 90/100
65
White Wines Chile
Maule Valley
Vi
Errazuriz | Sauvignon Blanc Maule Valley
2009
UWS: 90/100
16 Oct 2009
16/20
66
White Wines Chile
San Antonio Valley
Er
Matetic Vineyards | San Antonio Valley Sauvignon Blanc EQ
2002
UWS: 90/100
Impressive, with lovely flavors of lemon curd, grapefruit, straw, honeysuckle and chalk, with a hint of chamomile as
well. Quite rich, but with a lovely, stony underpinning. Long finish. Delicious. Drink now. 1,700 cases made. JM
M
Matetic Vineyards | San Antonio Valley Sauvignon Blanc EQ
2006
UWS: 90/100
Ripe peachesandcream flavors fill the soft texture of this sauvignon. With air, a hint of herbs appears behind the
fruit, bringing a fresher dimension to this ample wine. For butterfish.
01 Feb 2008
91/100
Solid, with crunchy lemonlime flavors backed by a nice salty hint on the lively finish. Drink now. 1,615 cases made.
JM
Wine Spectator © (WS), James Molesworth 31 Aug 2007 88/100
67
White Wines France
Alsace
M
Andre Kientzler | Gewürztraminer Alsace
2009
UWS: 91/100
Very rich and sweet and almost oily. Lots of residual sugar. Not ridiculously expensive. A GV version of the style.
Long.
A
27 Oct 2011
Bernard & Robert Schoffit | Chasselas
16,5/20
2004
UWS: 91/100
Decanter © (DC)
28 Apr 2011
4/5
Pale color. Subtly complex aromas of lime and fresh herbs. Fresh, vinous, harmonious wine with no shortage of
personality. This was showing better than the drier 2005 when I tasted the two side by side, but Schoffit feels that the
later vintage will ultimately be better.
International Wine Cellar © (IWC), Stephen Tanzer 01 Nov 2006 87/100
Be
Domaine Bott-Geyl | Pinot d'Alsace Alsace
2005
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
28 Apr 2011
4/5
No tasting note given. Young JeanChristophe Bott is passionate about quality and unafraid to make sacrifices on
its behalf. He has adopted a biodynamic regimen in the vineyards and is now holding most of his wines 624 months
in bottle before release. Clarity and cleanliness run through all of these, and it is encouraging to taste so many
Riesling that are uncompromisingly dry (although occasionally bitterness or alcohol intrude). Bott feels capable of
encouraging dryness and balance in various ways in the vineyard and the cellar without ever intervening in or
attempting to restart sluggish fermentations. By no means all of the wines I tasted displayed strong personalities,
but many of them gave reason to believe as does Bott's articulate advocacy that this will be one of the more talked
about Alsace domains of the coming decade. Given the challenges that so many of his fellowgrowers recorded with
this variety in 2004, his success in bringing Gewurztraminer to subtlyennobled ripeness in that vintage while
taking advantage of higher than usual acidities is especially noteworthy.
D
29 Feb 2008
Domaine Laurent Barth | Gewurztraminer Marckrain
85/100
2004
UWS: 91/100
La Revue du Vin de France © (LARVF)
01 Jan 2009
16/20
Broad, with caramel and spice notes gracing the lychee and grapefruit flavors. Offdry, with an airy texture and
good weight. Has good length, with a honey aftertaste. Gewürztraminer. Drink now through 2012. 59 cases
imported. BS
Wine Spectator © (WS), Bruce Sanderson
31 Jul 2007
92/100
Après avoir repris l'exploitation familiale en 1999, Laurent Barth est sorti de la coopérative. Il reconvertit son
vignoble à l'agriculture biologique et présente son premier vin, qui a impressionné le jury par son élégance. Jaune
brillant dans le verre, ce gewurztraminer libère des effluves discrets mais tout en finesse de rose et d'épices. Sa belle
attaque dévoile une matière généreuse et riche sans lourdeur, aux arômes de raisin sec, de coing confit et de miel.
Une fraîcheur charmeuse porte loin la finale. On en redemande écrit un dégustateur qui prédit à cette bouteille
plusieurs années de vie. (Sucres résiduels: 40 g/l.)
Guide Hachette © (HA)
01 Jan 2007
2/3
68
good weight. Has good length, with a honey aftertaste. Gewürztraminer. Drink now through 2012. 59 cases
imported. BS
31 Jul 2007
92/100
Après avoir repris l'exploitation familiale en 1999, Laurent Barth est sorti de la coopérative. Il reconvertit son
vignoble à l'agriculture biologique et présente son premier vin, qui a impressionné le jury par son élégance. Jaune
brillant dans le verre, ce gewurztraminer libère des effluves discrets mais tout en finesse de rose et d'épices. Sa belle
attaque dévoile une matière généreuse et riche sans lourdeur, aux arômes de raisin sec, de coing confit et de miel.
Une fraîcheur charmeuse porte loin la finale. On en redemande écrit un dégustateur qui prédit à cette bouteille
plusieurs années de vie. (Sucres résiduels: 40 g/l.)
White Wines France
D
Domaine Laurent Barth | Gewurztraminer Marckrain
01 Jan 2007
2/3
2006
UWS: 90/100
Un vin très puissant, moelleux et pur en bouche, avec des arômes de poivre, de fumée et de miel. Complètement
dominé par le terroir, la mention du cépage n'est du coup plus nécessaire sur l'étiquette.
D
Bettane et Desseauve © (BETD)
28 Apr 2011
16/20
01 Jan 2009
16/20
Domaine Marcel Deiss | Gewurztraminer Bergheim
2002
UWS: 90/100
D
Domaine Rene Barth | Gewürztraminer Alsace Roemerberg
01 Jan 2006
16/20
2005
UWS: 91/100
W_Gewurztraminer Alsace. #1; COLORbeautiful golden; NOSEone of the most interesting aromatic wines in a
while; soapy/laundramat; sunflower seeds; hints of Pineapple; Pineapple scented detergent; the nose alone is worth
$18 bones; TASTEa significant level of sweetness; razor sharp lemons squeezed into thin honey; very viscous style;
extremely flavorful; great apple core flavors; leftover canned Pineapple juice; a little sourness & auto body on the
finish; this is a Killer Gewurz; very impressed; GV91+
Wine Lib TV © (WLTV)
D
30 Jan 2008
Domaine Rene Barth | Riesling Bennwihr
91+/100
2002
UWS: 90/100
Ripe, offering peach, grapefruit and white pepper flavors and a hint of grapefruit peel on the finish. Concentrated
and powerful, but at the expense of elegance. Fine length. Drink now through 2012. 1,000 cases made. BS
15 Oct 2006
90/100
Nervy and energetic, this is strongly marked by the high acidity of the vintage, with compact, linear lemon and lime
flavors. It needs some time in the cellar to fill out and settle down.
D
Domaine Rene Barth | Riesling Rebgarten
01 Apr 2006
89/100
2002
UWS: 91/100
Dry; bracing and packed tightly with peach, apple and mineral aromas and flavors. It expands in the mouth, offering
a glimpse of its richness, before firming up on the long, lingering finish. Fine balance and harmony. Best from 2006
through 2012. 500 cases made. BS
D
Domaine Trimbach | Riesling Alsace
30 Sep 2004
91/100
2008
UWS: 90/100
There's a pleasant salty tanginess to this wine, underscoring flavors of Gala apple, grapefruit and stone, with a hint
of petrol. Clean and welldefined by the firm acidity, yet wellmeshed and elegant overall, with a mouthwatering
finish. Drink now through 2020. 20,000 cases made. AN
Published byWine
90pluswines.com
69
Spectator © (WS), Alison Napjus 15 Nov 2010 90/100
White Wines France
UWS: 90/100
There's a pleasant salty tanginess to this wine, underscoring flavors of Gala apple, grapefruit and stone, with a hint
of petrol. Clean and welldefined by the firm acidity, yet wellmeshed and elegant overall, with a mouthwatering
finish. Drink now through 2020. 20,000 cases made. AN
Wine Spectator © (WS), Alison Napjus 15 Nov 2010 90/100
D
Domaine Trimbach | Riesling Reserve
2007
UWS: 91/100
From 40 yearold vines on claylimestone terroir in Ribeauville. A definite step up from the previous cuvée here,
with a strong showing of honeyed fruit on the nose, although some of this may be the vintage of course. Supple and
quite substantial on the palate, more body here, structured too. Altogether more impressive, this would do well in the
cellar for a few years.
Assemblage de grands terroirs d'Alsace originaires de Hunawihr, Bergheim et Ribeauvillé, c'est un riesling ouvert,
au nez d'agrumes frais, ample et minéral en bouche, avec une finale acidulée. Parfaitement sec, ce sera un vin de
garde, profitez du magnifique 2006 en l'attendant.
28 Apr 2011
16/20
The Trimbach 2007 Riesling Reserve as usual, from old, limestonerich family vineyards in Ribeauville and
Bergheim immerses you in citrus, mineral salts, and crushed stone, exhibiting a formidable sense of brightness as
well as of clarity. Nuances of orange zest and walnut oil add to the finish of this handsomely lean Riesling, an
outstanding value that should merit several years' cellaring and should prove worth following for at least a decade.
The yeasts were very efficient in 2007, notes Jean Trimbach, pointing to a collection of wines several of which are
below one gram in residual sugar. The grapes and people did good work, too: I cannot recall a collection at this
address that was more consistently fine. Only three special bottlings were essayed by Trimbach in 2006, all Riesling,
of which the Frederic Emile and Clos Ste. Hune are among the high points of this vintage in Alsace.
30 Apr 2010
91/100
45yearold vines from the single argilocalcaire Haguenau vineyard in Ribeauvillé very close to the Grand Cru
Osterberg. 'We own half and my inlaws the other.' What do your inlaws do with their half? 'They sell it to us.' RS
less than 1 g/l. Really intense and creamy on the nose. A real step up from the regular. To be released in spring
2009 although its extra ripeness makes it more approachable than the regular at this point. Very fine a real match
for a Grosses Gewächs! Long and firm though not at all hot.
Jancis Robinson © (JR) 18 May 2009 17,5/20
(from mostly owned vineyards around Ribeauville; includes some juice from the grand cru Osterberg) Pale, green
tinged yellow. Lime, menthol and crushed stone on the nose; smells icy! Juicy, pure and brisk, with sharply focused
flavors of citrus fruits and minerals. Serious riesling, with a penetrating, long finish. Trimbach told me this wine
finished with less than a gram of residual sugar.
D
Domaines Schlumberger | Riesling Les Princes Abbes
2009
UWS: 90/100
Has already aged quite a bit. Correct but I wouldn't mind a bit more acidity and a bit less curlup around the edges.
Dry finish.
D
Kuentz-Bas | Alsace
16 Oct 2012
16/20
2010
UWS: 90/100
Pale straw. Lemon lime and a hint of flint on the fresh nose. Tactile and ample on the palate, with white fruit flavors
joined by a saline quality on the persistent, brisk finish. Very good food wine.
International Wine Cellar © (IWC), Ian D'Agata 01 Nov 2012 90/100
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White Wines France
Bordeaux
K
Chateau Sainte-Marie | Entre-Deux-Mers
2003
UWS: 90/100
Une bonne équipe familiale et professionnelle s'investit dans ce vignoble où les cabernets tiennent une place
importante (40 %) sur un terroir argilocalcaire. Cette cuvée montre toute sa puissance dès le premier regard porté
sur sa robe foncée à reflets violets. Le nez ouvert fait une large place aux fruits mûrs, nuancés des touches de
vanille, de cacao et de tabac héritées d'un élevage de douze mois bien mené. Beaucoup de matière, de la
concentration, de la longueur et des tanins de qualité laissent envisager une remarquable évolution à la garde: deux
ans, trois ans... et même davantage.
C
Chateau St.-Florin | Entre-Deux-Mers
01 Jan 2006
2/3
2005
UWS: 90/100
Ce bordeaux sec, composé de sauvignon (60 %), de sémillon et de muscadelle, surprend agréablement par la finesse
de ses arômes de fleurs blanches, d'agrumes et de fruits exotiques. Vif, franc et aromatique, il enchante le palais
jusqu'à l'élégante finale. Un bordeaux flatteur.
C
Chateau Thieuley | Bordeaux White Cuvée Francis Courselle
01 Jan 2007
2/3
2002
UWS: 90/100
Thieuley's top white, named after the owner, is an intense wine, with honey and acidity in great balance. There are
flavors of almonds and vanilla from wood aging. A great white Bordeaux from the EntredeuxMers region.
01 Jun 2005
91/100
Une sorte de Merlin l'enchanteur que ce bordeaux plein de séduction qui demeure l'une des figures de proue de
l'appellation. Gourmand dans ses arômes de zeste d'agrumes, de miel, de fleurs alliés à un vanillé chaleureux et
sensuel. Croquant aussi grâce à sa chair douce et ample, fruit d'une vinification et d'un élevage en barrique neuve
parfaitement maîtrisés. Un boisé grillé embellit sa silhouette. Un vin prêt à passer à table avec des viandes blanches
ou des poissons en sauce. Très réussi, le Château Thieuley 2003 (5 à 8 ¬ ), qui n'a pas connu le bois, dévoile un
caractère fruitéfloral agréable, ainsi qu'un bon équilibre entre le gras et la vivacité.
C
Domaine du Fontenille | Entre-Deux-Mers
01 Jan 2005
2/3
2010
UWS: 90/100
This is rather eccentric in character with notes of herbs and tropical fruits and bright acidity.
James Suckling © (JS)
D
Michel Lynch | Sauvignon Blanc Bordeaux
20 Apr 2011
9091/100
2009
UWS: 90/100
Très jolie bouteille ! Ce blanc allie puissance et élégance, les arômes de fruits blancs bien mûrs se mêlent à ceux de
chèvrefeuille et anis, la bouche, tout aussi aromatique, est savoureuse, ample et dotée d'une excellente vivacité.
Bettane et Desseauve © (BETD) 30 Nov 2012 16/20
71
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M
Chateau Bertinerie | Cotes de Blaye Blanc
2010
UWS: 90/100
A superb dry white, one of the best from Blaye, it offers good body, terrific fruit intensity and lots of honeyed, exotic
fruits.
eRobertParker.com © (WA), Robert Parker 31 May 2011 8991/100
72
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Bordeaux (Graves)
C
Chateau Le Merle | Graves Blanc
2005
UWS: 90/100
Après son étoile pour le 2004, Les Merles nous rejouent cette année une bien jolie mélodie. La robe de ce bergerac
tire un peu vers le jaune paille. Le nez est intense, floral, avec des arômes de sauvignon puissants. La bouche est
particulièrement équilibrée et harmonieuse avec une acidité un peu marquée. À marier sans plus attendre à une
bonne douzaine d'huîtres du CapFerret. Le bergerac rouge 2004 (5 à 8 ¬ ) obtient une étoile. C'est un véritable
bouquet de fruits au nez et en bouche, avec des tanins ronds et charnus, pleins d'avenir.
C
M. de Malle | Graves Blanc
01 Jan 2007
2/3
1999
UWS: 90/100
Toujours régulière, cette cuvée de Graves produite par le Château de Malle gagne incontestablement en complexité
avec l'âge. Le 1999 le prouve avec sa robe d'un or vert assez intense et son expression aromatique allant sur les
agrumes et les fruits exotiques. Arômes que l'on retrouve dans une bouche grasse, riche, ronde à l'équilibre tenu par
une bonne vivacité en finale.
M.
01 Jan 2002
M. de Malle | Graves Blanc
16/20
2001
UWS: 98/100
Robe d'un or pâle, nez sur le sauvignon mais de belle maturité. La bouche est grasse et complexe avec un fruit très
présent. Belle expression de terroir et finesse de style. Très belle longueur. Excellent.
M.
01 Jan 2004
Chateau de Cruzeau | Pessac Leognan Blanc
19/20
2001
UWS: 92/100
Note: Due to space limitations, no tasting notes have been included, only my qualitative score. Obviously, the 2001
dry whites are extremely longlived wines. They can be drunk young or cellared for 2030+ years. I recently had the
pleasure of tasting the 1962 Domaine de Chevalier, which was still incredibly fresh and lively. In many ways, these
whites age even more slowly than red Bordeaux.
30 Jun 2004
88/100
Tout comme le rouge, rien n'aurait vraiment empêché ce vin d'obtenir un coup de coeur si ce n'est son cousinage
avec La Louvière. Fruits jaunes, pêche, mandarine, vanille, fruits secs et pain grillé, son bouquet est un vrai régal.
Quant à la structure, sa rondeur, son gras et son équilibre ne laissent que de superbes souvenirs. Une magnifique
bouteille, élégante et complexe, que le grand jury a applaudie.
01 Jan 2004
3/3
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Bourgogne
C
Domaine Antonin Rodet | Bourgogne Blanc
2002
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
28 Apr 2011
4/5
Nez fin de fleurs et de fruits blancs. Très joli équilibre qui confère une belle race et beaucoup de fraîcheur. 8,99 e
D
Domaine Antonin Rodet | Bourgogne Blanc
01 Jan 2005
16/20
2003
UWS: 90/100
Jolie matière. Élégant, racé, ce chardonnay affiche sa personnalité. De très belle facture. 8,40 e
D
Philippe Chavy | Bourgogne Blanc
01 Jan 2005
16/20
2008
UWS: 93/100
12 Jan 2010
17/20
74
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Ph
Domaine Emmanuel Rouget | Bourgogne Aligote
2007
UWS: 90/100
Ce domaine, situé sur une pente douce du plateau de Pomerol, près de l'église, semble tirer parti des millésimes
difficiles: après 1994 et 2002, le voici à nouveau distingué. Élevé dans un beau cadre (vaste demeure girondine
entourée d'arbres centenaires), le vin est à cette image: la robe foncée à reflets rubis est aussi élégante que les
senteurs de sousbois, d'épices et de pierre à fusil. L'attaque ample et chaleureuse cède la place à une chair suave,
corsée et ronde, portée par des tanins boisés, réglissés et qui soulignent sa persistance. Un style très pomerol pour
ce millésime que l'on appréciera aussi bien jeune que vieux.
D
Ghislaine & Jean-Hugues Goisot | Bourgogne Aligote
01 Jan 2011
2/3
2008
UWS: 90/100
The Goisot 2008 Bourgogne Aligote its latest rendition once again proving this bottling to be among Burgundy's
rare sensational values leads with typically forthright yet mysterious evocation of local terroir, notably fresh
lemon, narcissus, iris, chicken stock, and a marine mineral melange. Glossy in texture, luscious, and refreshing, with
nut oils and citrus pip adding piquancy to its long, ocean and seaweedinformed finish, this comes close to tasting
like the corresponding 2007's twin and will undoubtedly reward its owners over at minimum the next 45 years.
Extreme millerandage characterized his family's 2008 crop, explains Guilhem Goisot, and even if one did not know
that, it is easy to imagine the concentration of tiny, sparse berries when one tastes the superb collection rendered
here this year. Yet even with these low yields, 2008 was not the vintage to threaten too much of a good thing, and the
natural sugars sufficed for a collection of Chardonnay weighing in entirely between 1213% alcohol from ripe,
healthy fruit.
31 Oct 2010
90/100
75
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Bourgogne (Chablis)
G
Simonnet-Febvre | Chablis
2009
UWS: 92/100
A round Chablis, exuding peach and melon flavors accented by latent gravel or chalk dust notes. This is beautifully
balanced and finishes with a juicy, citrus aftertaste. Drinkable now, but better in a year or two. Best from 2013
through 2021. BS
Wine Spectator © (WS), Bruce Sanderson 31 Dec 2011 92/100
Si
Chateau de Maligny | Chablis l'Homme Mort
2010
UWS: 90/100
A clean and lemony white, with a hint of seashore in the aroma, enveloping the bright structure with a touch of
creaminess. Balanced and long, leaving a brisk, chalky feel. Drink now through 2016. BS
Wine Spectator © (WS), Bruce Sanderson 30 Nov 2012 90/100
C
Gilbert & ses fils Picq | Chablis Vaucoupin
2011
UWS: 91/100
Scents of iris and rowan waft alluringly from the glass of Picq 2011 Chablis Vaucoupin, joined by lime, grapefruit
white peach, and toasted shrimp shells, all of which intimate the intriguing and irresistibly juicy colloquy of liquid
perfume, lusciously juicy fruit, and crustacean reduction that dominate a lithe, buoyant and bright palate. The finish
here veritably bursts with refreshment, liberating the salivary glands and invigorating in its touches of lime and
grapefruit pip. Look to be captivated by this terrific value through at least 2022. Didier Picq for further notes on
whose stainless steel vinificatory regimen and distinctive, often littleknown sites, consult my report in issue 191
relates that ripening was a breeze in 2011 compared with 2012, yet his wines, notable in general for their moderate
alcohol, finished in the former vintage between 1212.5% , and roughly a half point higher in 2012 when he began
picking only on September 26. It is perhaps not coincidental that these wines, which I have often characterized as
among the finest values in Chablis (and which regularly make my own shopping list) are also grown and crafted by
someone who I've come to recognize as among the most humbly downtoearth, affable and enthusiastic (yet immune
to hyperbole) of vignerons. My arrival this year found Picq being called away from palletizing cases to tend to the
bottling line, so I stepped into the boss's former handson role for a few minutes. The degree to which I find that
Picq's wines are underestimated internationally is also reflected in his home terroir, astride the Serein southeast of
Chablis the town, because despite the commune of Chichee makingup 10% of Chablis vine surface area, even
around the premier cru Vaucoupin, wheat fields predominate, joined by other remnants of mixed agriculture, most in
spots that were they only a bit nearer to the regional center would long since have been turned into vineyards.
And I can't help fantasizing too bad it's merely that what Picq grand crus would taste like if he had the requisite
holdings. (And heaven knows it takes less imagination to realize and is, alas, no fantasy that acre after acre in
those great sites is being abused or squandered. Just take a walk through them, or find your nose stuck in an
unfortunate choice of glass.) Importers Vintage 59, Washington, DC;
In this vintage, the 2011 Chablis Vaucoupin comes across as inward, stony and intensely mineral. With air, the fruit
begins to emerge, but the Vaucoupin remains tightly wound. It is obviously still aging in the Picq cellars, so it will be
interesting to see what another year brings. Lemon zest, grape fruit and white flowers are layered into the pointed,
vibrant finish.
Intense and even with a bit of alcohol in evidence! Chewy and a bit stolid.
10 Jan 2013
15,5/20
76
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Gi
Domaine Seguinot Bordet | Petit Chablis
2011
UWS: 90/100
Fresh lemon and slightly grassy nose. Richer and deeper than the Dom Millet, more complete and persistent. (JH)
D
La Chablisienne | Petit Chablis
19 Sep 2012
16/20
2011
UWS: 90/100
Light, slightly grassy. Could almost be Loire Sauvignon but the nuttiness returns it to Chablis. Leaves a good
impression for a modest appellation. (RH)
16 Oct 2012
16/20
77
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La
Maison Louis Latour | Montagny 1er Cru
2006
UWS: 90/100
The latest rendition of a longrunning, highproduction Latour hit, their 2006 Montagny 1er Cru displays
honeysuckle, pear, and apricot in the nose; a luscious, polished palate generous in its ripe fruit and backed by
chalky, stony mineral suggestions; and an impressively layered finish. This excellent value has generally shown
considerable resilience, and should keep nicely for 46 years. LouisFabrice Latour and oenologue JeanCharles
Thomas presented a 2006 collection that displayed the opulent richness that one would anticipate from such a ripe
vintage, and from the Latour house style. Sometimes these wines want a bit for clarity, definition and distinctiveness
occasionally they are rather obviously marked by dairy flavors from their malolactic conversion but the best of
them have much to offer. Since I did not have opportunity to include in my issue 179 report notes on the Chablis
bottlings of SimmonetFebvre a domaine Latour purchased in 2003 (and which also bottles some lovely sparkling
wines) I have made note of them here. Louis Latour has numerous importers throughout the U.S.
eRobertParker.com © (WA), David Schildknecht 31 Dec 2008 90/100
M
Joseph Drouhin | Rully Blanc Premier Cru
2008
UWS: 91/100
A toasty and buttery wine that is initially smooth and silky. It's only on the midpalate that the tauter, more steely
character of Chablis comes through. With fresh acidity, this easily combines both ripeness and mouthwatering
crispness.
Wine Enthusiast © (WE) 01 May 2011 91/100
78
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Jo
Olivier Leflaive | Chassagne Montrachet Les Chaumees
1989
UWS: 90/100
Deliciously balanced, with alluring fruit. Butter and pear aromas follow through on the palate. Has a silky, creamy
mouthfeel and a long finish. Drink now.
Wine Spectator © (WS) 31 Aug 1991 90/100
Ol
Olivier Leflaive | Chassagne Montrachet Les Vergers
1998
UWS: 90/100
Pure, ripe aromas of white fruits and spring flowers. Clean, sweet and ripe, with harmonious acidity and good subtle
persistence. From grapes picked early but ripe, according to Grux.
Ol
01 Sep 1999
Domaine Jean-Claude Boisset | Meursault Les Charmes
8891/100
2006
UWS: 90/100
The nose here is dominated by a layer of fine, golden oak and a little baked apple fruit. There is a nice freshness to it
though, starting out fairly lightly on the palate, with some pure and gentle fruit, the oak only coming to predominate
on the midpalate. Smoky, and with an appealing gritty substance, this is very attractive. Lots of potential here.
Un des meilleurs Charmes de la dégustation, forte expression du terroir, grande stabilité des arômes, charmeur
dans sa puissance, vin de consensus!
28 Apr 2011
16,5/20
Big, bold, this is a spicy, upfront wine, flaunting its yellow fruits and cinnamon. The consequence is that the wine
lacks freshness and a sense of place. But it is certainly very enjoyable. Imported by Boisset America.
01 Oct 2009
89/100
Rich, with butterscotch, honey and apricot aromas and flavors gliding to a juicy, citrustinged finish. Nicely
balanced, this could still use some time to integrate fully. There's a lovely toasty aftertaste. Drink now through 2016.
140 cases made. BS
31 Jul 2009
92/100
Producer note: (Veritas Imports, www.veritas.com, CA and TX; Martin Scott Wines, www.martinscottwines, Lake
Success, NY; Country Vintner, www.countryvintner.com, Ashland, VA, Lion Imports, CA; Martignetti Wines,
www.martignetti.com, Boston, MA; Berry Bros & Rudd, www.bbr.com, and Lay & Wheeler, www.laywheeler.com,
UK). Tasting note: A moderately ripe nose of lemon, apricot and white peach leads to round, forward and delicious
mediumbodied flavors that retain fine delineation and energy though there is noticeable warmth on the otherwise
lingering finish. The warmth though is not subtle and compromises the sense of harmony.
Burghound © (BH)
01 Jul 2009
88/100
Soft and buttery, this broad wine has a stony character and a hint of tart fruit underneath. On the surface, it's clean
and simple, needing time to evolve.
D
Domaine Thomas Moillard | Meursault
01 Apr 2009
87/100
2006
UWS: 94/100
From a blind tasting of more than 60 white burgundies submitted to British Airways for serving in their First Class
cabin from August 2008 until August 2009. Quite big and broad on the nose. Very rich and almost sweet. A big,
Published
by 90pluswines.com
79
broad shoulder to cry on during a transatlantic
flight?
Lemon oil. What many people would want from Meursault?
Quite long. For early drinking.
White Wines France
UWS: 94/100
From a blind tasting of more than 60 white burgundies submitted to British Airways for serving in their First Class
cabin from August 2008 until August 2009. Quite big and broad on the nose. Very rich and almost sweet. A big,
broad shoulder to cry on during a transatlantic flight? Lemon oil. What many people would want from Meursault?
Quite long. For early drinking.
12 Feb 2007
17,5/20
80
White Wines France
D
Domaine Chanson Pere & Fils | Macon Vire-Clesse
2007
UWS: 90/100
Dry and savoury and a little lightweight and restrained but perfectly correct.
D
Domaine De La Croix Senaillet | Macon Davayé
23 Jul 2009
16/20
2010
UWS: 90/100
Pungent, smoky nose. Five parcels in here. Good precision. Medium weight. VGV
D
Domaine des Comtes Lafon | Macon Clos de la Crochette
12 Jan 2012
16/20
2005
UWS: 90/100
La nouvelle acquisition du domaine et son meilleur cru, avec en plus des caractères légèrement lactés des mâcons
donne un arôme de fleur de vigne très noble, et surtout brille par une texture plus ample et plus grasse. Excellent!
28 Apr 2011
16/20
Producer note: Due to a scheduling mixup, Dominique Lafon was in Meursault awaiting my arrival there rather
than in the Mâconnais and thus I tasted with his cellar master instead. He describes 2005 as being quite dry with
low yields, particularly in the vineyards that had suffered hail damage in 2004. The crop was apparently very clean
and alcohols were reported as averaging around 13%. Unlike some domaines that described problems with the
primary fermentations, here everything went like clockwork though the malos were extremely long and slow; indeed,
both the Mansard and Clos du Four had only just begun and thus were not rated. (Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA;
Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA; Jeroboam Wines, New York, NY; ExCellars Wine Agencies, Solvang, CA;
Veritas Imports, Beverly Hills, CA, A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, France [email protected] ; Morris
& Verdin, John Armit Wines, Adnams, Domaine Direct, Farr Vintners, Justerini & Brooks, Lay & Wheeler and
Tanners, all UK). Tasting note: Slightly more evident wood frames riper orchard fruit and a pretty hint of lime that
leads to rich, full and sweet flavors that possess excellent volume and plenty of vibrancy on the deliciously sappy
finish that is bone dry. This is a lacy and detailed wine of finesse and understatement yet with no lack of power.
Burghound © (BH)
90/100
01 Oct 2007
Rich and broad and sweet. A certain candied quality to it. This wine from the village of Chardonnay (as opposed to
Terry Thiese's famous village of Riesling where all the best Chardonnays come from) was bottled in July 2005. I'd
wait till quite well into 2007 before opening this though.
Jancis Robinson © (JR) 06 Aug 2007 16/20
D
Domaine des Comtes Lafon | Macon Clos de la Crochette
2006
UWS: 90/100
Pale gold. Peppery, mineraldriven lemon and tangerine aromas offer very good precision and energy. Tightly
wound citrus and orchard fruit flavors project good punch and depth but shut down on the finish. I got a glimpse of
some great material but this is painfully young right now.
International Wine Cellar © (IWC), Josh Raynolds 01 Mar 2008 89+?/100
Mineralscented, very fine wine which splits the difference between the styles of the Monsard and Maranches. A
crowd pleaser. GV
04 Feb 2008
16,5/20
Producer note: Dominique Lafon reaffirmed what he has said from the very beginning, which is that our vineyards
are adapting very well to our biodynamic viticultural philosophy and after the last few years of putting various
programs in place, the vines clearly are moving
out of the transitionary phase. I'm very excited by this because 81
it
means that we should see even better fruit quality in the years ahead. As to 2006, it's definitely a very ripe year and
UWS: 90/100
Pale gold. Peppery, mineraldriven lemon and tangerine aromas offer very good precision and energy. Tightly
wound citrus and orchard fruit flavors project good punch and depth but shut down on the finish. I got a glimpse of
some great material but this is painfully young right now.
International Wine Cellar © (IWC), Josh Raynolds 01 Mar 2008 89+?/100
White Wines France
Mineralscented, very fine wine which splits the difference between the styles of the Monsard and Maranches. A
crowd pleaser. GV
04 Feb 2008
16,5/20
Producer note: Dominique Lafon reaffirmed what he has said from the very beginning, which is that our vineyards
are adapting very well to our biodynamic viticultural philosophy and after the last few years of putting various
programs in place, the vines clearly are moving out of the transitionary phase. I'm very excited by this because it
means that we should see even better fruit quality in the years ahead. As to 2006, it's definitely a very ripe year and
the date of the harvest was even more important than it usually is. I waited until September 15th to begin the harvest,
bringing in yields of 50 to 60 hl/ha and the sugars were sufficient that there was no chaptalization. Acidities were
not as high as I like them however and while I didn't correct the acidities, I did block half the malos in some wines.
Overall, 2006 is a nice if not a great vintage but because our fruit quality keeps climbing, we get a little better each
vintage, or at least that's my impression. As is often the case chez Lafon, some of the malos were extremely long and
slow and thus the Maranges was not rated. (Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA; Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA;
Jeroboam Wines, New York, NY; ExCellars Wine Agencies, Solvang, CA; Veritas Imports, Beverly Hills, CA, A
Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, France [email protected]; John Armit Wines, Adnams, Domaine Direct,
Farr Vintners, Justerini & Brooks, Lay & Wheeler and Tanners, all UK). Tasting note: Here too there is a discreet
pain grillé note that does intrude on the refined, pure and ripe nose of mostly orchard fruit aromas that work well
with the round, rich and fullbodied flavors that retain a fine sense of underlying balance and plenty of intensity.
This is lovely and also worth a look.
Burghound © (BH)
D
01 Oct 2007
Domaine Emilian (Jean Thevenet) Gillet | Macon Vire Quintaine
8891/100
1994
UWS: 90/100
Seductively opulent, very ripe and sweettasting, bordering on botrytis with all that honey, apricot and ripe pear, but
interwoven with clean and fresh lime, mineral, wet stone and wet earth character. Gorgeously balanced, it coats the
palate with silky texture and impressive flavors. Long finish. Slightly offdry, so try as an apéritif or match with a
slightly sweet dish like pumpkin soup. Drink now through 2005. 2,500 cases made. PM
Wine Spectator © (WS), PM 31 May 1998 92/100
This wine, made by the extraordinary white wine maker in the Maconnais, Jean Thevenet, is a fullbodied, deep,
honeyedpineapple, rich, naturaltasting wine with gobs of fruit, excellent purity, and a lusty finish. It is not meant to
age, but for uncomplicated, boisterous levels of fruit, glycerin, and extract, Thevenet has no peers in the Maconnais,
and few in the Cote d'Or. Drink this wine over the next 23 years.
D
Domaine Manciat-Poncet | Macon Charnay Domaine des Crays
30 Jun 1997
87/100
2007
UWS: 90/100
Bright medium gold. Smoky, exotic aromas of dried lemon, pear, brown butter, anise and papaya. Smooth, gently
sweet and nutty, with deep orchard fruit and citrus flavors and subtle minerality. A very rich and chewy Macon with
a long, buttery finish. This needs to be served with a buttery poultry or fish dish.
D
Larochette-Manciat | Mâcon Les Morizottes
01 Jul 2009
90/100
2009
UWS: 90/100
If this exemplifies what we are going to see from the 2009 vintage in the Maconnais and further north in the Cote
d'Or, consumers are in for a treat. LarochetteManciat's 2009 exhibits plenty of steely freshness as well as ripe
nectarine and honeyed melon notes presented in a fruity, mediumbodied style. It is a beautiful white combining
power with elegance. Enjoy it over the next 12 years.
La
Louis Jadot | Macon Villages
2008
UWS: 90/100
82
White Wines France
UWS: 90/100
Lo
Maison Louis Latour | Macon Vire-Clesse
2008
UWS: 90/100
Voici un vin désaltérant aux notes florales et minérales, sur des arômes d'agrumes et de fruits blancs. La bouche est
vive et aromatique, parfaitement structurée, avec une finale délicieusement citronnée.
Gault Millau © (GM)
M
26 Jan 2012
Olivier Merlin | Macon La Roche Vineuse
16/20
2007
UWS: 90/100
Very pure nose with acidity leaping out of the glass. As though Rodin had just got up from chipping this from a block
of stone... Don't start till summer 2009.
Ol
29 Jan 2009
Olivier Merlin | Macon La Roche Vineuse Vieilles Vignes
16/20
2002
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
28 Apr 2011
4/5
A bit introvert and rather hard work.
28 Jan 2004
14/20
(from tank; all estate fruit) Rich, complex aromas of lemon, hazelnut, white flowers and stone. Rich and dense but
bright, with strong mineral and citrus notes giving the wine power and cut. Technically this is rather low in acidity,
notes Merlin, but the lemony character and energy that come from the chalky soil (and the healthy pH that Merlin
attributes to the percentage of noble rot) give the wine noteworthy nervosite Merlin describes this wine as a smaller
scaled, less noble version of his superb PouillyFuisse Terroir de Vergisson.
Ol
01 Jan 2004
Olivier Merlin | Macon La Roche Vineuse Vieilles Vignes
8991/100
2006
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
28 Apr 2011
3/5
Notes de petites fleurs blanches fines et intenses. Ensemble élégant et raffiné. À boire dès aujourd'hui.
28 Apr 2011
15/20
Fragrant scents of freshpicked butterandsugar corn lead into this spicy Mâcon. The structure is tight and youthful,
with hints of bay laurel lengthening the finish. For meaty roast fish or pheasant.
90/100
01 Apr 2009
Greenhued yellow. Seductive, exotically perfumed bouquet of ripe apple, pear, floral honey and baking spices, with
a gentle mineral undertone. Stains the palate with deep orchard fruit and melon flavors, turning tighter and stonier
with air. Rich, fleshy and complex, with energizing lime and quinine firming the finish. For such a rich wine this is
really brisk.
Ol
Verget | Macon Vergisson La Roche
2009
UWS: 90/100
Very striking nose. Satintextured palate. Lots of oomph and still quite tense.
Published by 90pluswines.comJancis
Robinson © (JR)
01 Feb 2013
83
16+/20
Tasting note: As one might reasonably expect given the Vergisson appellation, this is both more elegant and stonier
White Wines France
UWS: 90/100
Very striking nose. Satintextured palate. Lots of oomph and still quite tense.
01 Feb 2013
16+/20
Tasting note: As one might reasonably expect given the Vergisson appellation, this is both more elegant and stonier
with a relatively cool and airy nose of citrus and white peach. The textured, round and delicious flavors are easy to
like but there is good depth on the lemony and reasonably persistent finish.
Burghound © (BH)
V
88/100
01 Oct 2010
Domaine Bernard Leger-Plumet | Pouilly Fuisse Domaine du Chalet Pouilly
2005
UWS: 90/100
Rich, savory and complex, featuring pineapple, apricot, spice and mineral notes. Balanced and dry, with a chalklike
sensation on the lingering finish. Drink now through 2012. 250 cases imported. BS
D
90/100
30 Sep 2008
Roger Lassarat | Pouilly Fuisse Terroir
2011
UWS: 90/100
The 2011 PouillyFuisse Terroir comes from 46yearold vines and is fermented in stainless steel tanks with full
malolactic. It has a welljudged, understated bouquet with fresh lime, orange blossom and jasmine scents that unfold
nicely in the glass. The palate is fresh and zesty on the entry, quite linear on the midpalate with a taut, stony finish.
Fine. Domaine Roger Luquet has recently renovated its cellars in Fuisse, so I hope that the wines become more
consistent because tasting them blind, they seemed rather hit and miss. There is evidence of potential here with their
creditable PouillyFuisse Terroir but one hopes that the new facilities will enable more wines at this level.
eRobertParker.com © (WA), Neal Martin 31 Aug 2013 90/100
R
Domaine De La Croix Senaillet | Saint Veran Blanc
2006
UWS: 92/100
Smoky (reductive?) notes. Very minerally, tight. Then softly textured but with crisp lemon freshness to make it linger.
(JH)
D
04 Feb 2008
Domaine De La Croix Senaillet | Saint Veran Blanc
16,5+/20
2010
UWS: 92/100
Decanter © (DC)
15 Jul 2012
4/5
Quite stinky and perfumed. Solid but I think I would go for the MâconDavayé as the better buy.
12 Jan 2012
15,5/20
84
White Wines France
D
Chateau Rives-Blanques | Chenin Blanc Limoux Dédicace
2007
UWS: 91/100
Fermented in oak, then half left in oak for a total six months, the other half out into tank after four months. The name
of this cuvée reflects the Panmans' dedication to the appellation and terroir, and each vintage is also dedicated to an
individual. Very fresh on the nose, although youthful displaying some richness, related to the bâtonnage? The palate
is rounded off but elegant, stylish, but quite full and almost meaty. Toothsome, in fact. Good, with potential.
Wine Doctor © (WD) 17 Mar 2012 16,5+/20
100% Chenin Blanc It has gained a bit in depth with time in bottle but just a little less convincing than the Mauzac
2005, though younger of course. Very clean and well made, and seems rather more concentrated than the 2008.
Jancis Robinson © (JR) 12 Nov 2009 16,5/20
85
White Wines France
Loire
C
Chateau de la (Germain-Saincrit) Roulerie | Anjou White
2011
UWS: 92/100
A bright, juicy style, with a bouncy feel to the quince, green fig and glazed green apple flavors. Honeysuckle and
Jonagold apple notes cascade through the finish. This should put on some extra range in the cellar. Best from 2015
through 2023. JM
C
92/100
30 Sep 2013
Domaine Lecomte | Quincy
2010
UWS: 90/100
Sand and gravel. Perfumed, almost like a Pinot Gris! Satin texture and already very winning and seductive. Sleek.
Persistent with just a little chew on the end.
D
Domaine Mardon | Quincy
2010
UWS: 91/100
Sand and gravel. Almost a hint of botrytis on the nose here! Subtle but rich. Round and gloriously stuffed with fruit
but still finishes dry. Not a very longdistance runner but very appealing.
D
Domaine Francois Chidaine | Montlouis Le Bouchet
2006
UWS: 90/100
Offdry, with enticing quince, fig and persimmon notes backed by a lush texture and a long, alluring finish that lets
ginger cream, toasted brioche and cardamom notes linger. Very flattering, with fine length and great mouthfeel.
Drink now through 2012. JM
92/100
28 Apr 2011
Belle attaque, suivie par une fin de bouche consensuelle, moins précise dans sa finale ultime.
28 Apr 2011
14,5/20
Chidaine, based across the Loire in Montlouis, has only recently begun making wine from Vouvray as well. Le
Bouchet is an offdry wine that balances a core of minerality and acidity against intense richness. Flavors of sweet
plums, apricots and almonds ride beautifully into the soft finish.
D
01 Sep 2009
Domaine Joseph Landron | Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine Amphibolite Nature
93/100
2008
UWS: 93/100
Vin de grand plaisir, qui semble avoir emmagasiné toutes les flaveurs iodées de l'Atlantique, avec un perlant qui
frise sur la langue , vin rabelaisien qui pousse à la gaudriole...
28 Apr 2011
17/20
86
White Wines France
D
Domaine Marc Ollivier | Muscadet de Sevre et Maine Sur Lie Domaine de la
Pepiere Clos des Briords
2008
UWS: 92/100
Bright straw. A piercing, energetic array of citrus and floral scents, complicated by strong minerality and a note of
white pepper. Bitter lime pith and quinine flavors gain flesh and weight with air, taking a turn to sweeter tangerine
and quince. Strikingly balanced and precise, with a long, spicy, mineraldominated finish. This should be even better
with a couple years of bottle age.
International Wine Cellar © (IWC), Josh Raynolds 01 Dec 2010 92/100
D
Domaine Marc Ollivier | Muscadet de Sevre et Maine Sur Lie Granite de
Clisson
2005
UWS: 91/100
Ce 2005 a gagné en complexité, il nous dévoile tout son registre minéral, la bouche est pleine de rebondissements,
c'est l'une des réussites majeures du millésime.
28 Apr 2011
28 Apr 2011
17/20
90/100
The 2005 is Marc Ollivier's first vintage of Granite de Clisson, one of the new subcategories of Muscadet designed
to showcase the terroirs of the region. Made from 60 to 90yearold vines and fermented with indigenous yeasts,
this was aged on its lees for 24 months before release, which contributes to its rich body and silky texture. The whole
package is sleek and focused, the granite soils contributing lively, flinty stoniness under the fruit flavors of apple
skin and preserved lemon.
D
Domaine Pierre Luneau-Papin | Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie
Domaine Pierre de la Grange Vieilles Vignes
01 Apr 2008
91/100
2004
UWS: 90/100
Light yellow. Fresh apple and pear aromas complemented by a deep, earthy undertone. Rich and weighty, with a
creamy texture to the ripe pear flavor. The sappy, persistent finish features ripe peach note. A richer, weightier style
of Muscadet, to serve with scaled fish, not shellfish.
Rich, sleek flavors of apple skin and Asian pear feel energetic and lively. Succulent now, this needs another five
years to show its best.
D
Domaine Pierre Luneau-Papin | Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie
Domaine Pierre de la Grange Vieilles Vignes
01 Apr 2006
91/100
2009
UWS: 91/100
Ripe and bold in aroma, this balances its flavors of mandarin orange and grapefruit pith with stony minerality,
showing a fine tension and subtle complexity. It should be even more harmonious and expressive with a few years in
the cellar.
D
Jonathan Pabiot | Pouilly Fume
01 Apr 2011
91/100
2009
87
White Wines France
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
28 Sep 2011
4/5
Also recommended, but no tasting note given. A Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011331
46451529
Jo
Henri Bourgeois | Sancerre La Porte du Caillou
2005
UWS: 90/100
Rich, with lots of lemon verbena, grapefruit and gooseberry flavors, followed by a broad, minerally finish. Drink
now. 8,500 cases made. JM
Almost New World in its intense fruit flavors, bursting with currants, gooseberries and lemons, this is a wine packed
with delights. It should age well over three or four years, but can be enjoyed now for its exuberant fruit. Imported by
Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd.
H
Domaine Bourillon-Dorléans | Vouvray Sec La Coulée d'Argent Vieilles
Vignes
2008
UWS: 90/100
Frédéric Bourillon est soucieux de mêler tradition et modernité, joie et rigueur dans le travail, art du vin et art sous
ses autres formes. Il s'y emploie et fait parler régulièrement de lui pour ses initiatives originales, comme ce fut le cas
par le passé pour les caves rupestres et tout dernièrement pour les étiquettes odorantes. La Coulée d'argent porte
bien son nom car elle en a le reflet, sur un fond jaune clair. Le nez évoque les fleurs et les fruits bien mûrs. Souple et
fraîche dès l'attaque, la bouche ne manque ni de longueur, ni de fruit (pêche et pomme), ni de douceur. Un vin
harmonieux, à découvrir dès aujourd'hui ou dans un an ou deux, sur un poisson ou une volaille en sauce.
01 Jan 2011
2/3
Light, bright gold. Racy, mineraldriven aromas of quince, lime and jasmine, with a strong undercurrent of talc.
Firm and focused but not hard, offering tangy citrus and orchard fruit flavors and a touch of candied flowers.
Finishes with very good sappy persistence and an echo of bitter quinine.
A bright, hightoned style, with lime and quince notes backed by a honeysuckle thread. The finish is long and lacy.
Drink now through 2010. 4,200 cases made. JM
Wine Spectator © (WS), James Molesworth 15 Dec 2009 90/100
D
Jean-Francois Mérieau | Vouvray Fleuve Blanc
2005
UWS: 93/100
RS 12 g/l. Pale gold. A delicate chamomile and mimosa blossom nose. A blade of minerality set against honeyed
stone fruit and creamy apple in a chalky frame. An undercurrent of green on the shimmering finish. (TC)
13 Jun 2011
17/20
88
White Wines France
Rhone Valley
Je
Chateau de Saint Cosme | Cotes du Rhone Blanc
2011
UWS: 91/100
A fresh, bouncy style, with crunchy acidity running underneath the white peach, Meyer lemon and Cavaillon melon
flavors. There's a brisk note of dried chamomile flower on the finish. Drink now. JM
C
31 Oct 2012
Domaine Chante Cigale | Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc
91/100
2008
UWS: 90/100
( onequarter each of grenache blanc, roussanne, bourboulenc and clairette) Light, bright gold. Sexy, aromatic
nose offers lime, green apple, white flowers, mint and spices. Dense, sappy and surprisingly energetic, with ripe
acids framing the sweet citrus and orchard fruit and spice flavors. In a distinctly lively style and sure to be flexible at
the table. (Total Wine & More, Potomac, MD; David Bowler Wine, New York, NY; K&L Wine Merchants, Redwood
City, CA)
01 Jan 2010
89/100
Voilà dix ans qu'Alexandre Favier est aux commandes de ce domaine de 50 ha. Remarqué dans le millésime
précédent, son châteauneuf blanc est plébiscité cette année. Produit d'une macération pellliculaire, ce 2008 se
partage équitablement entre la roussanne, la clairette, le grenache et le bourboulenc. Or pâle limpide, il libère des
parfums de fleurs blanches et d'agrumes d'une rare finesse. Vif à l'attaque, il se montre ensuite gras et ample, sur
des arômes d'acacia et de pêche, et persiste sur une note beurrée. Déjà prêt mais apte à la garde, il accompagnera
un poisson délicat, une sole meunière par exemple.
01 Jan 2010
2/3
Pure, with lovely focus to the orange blossom, white peach and salted butter notes. The fine finish is long and stony.
Drink now. 1,200 cases made. JM
Wine Spectator © (WS), James Molesworth 15 Nov 2009 90/100
D
Domaine de la Janasse | Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc
2004
UWS: 91/100
Light gold in color, with an impressively balanced, rich and lively profile, the 2004 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc is a
tankaged blend of 50% Grenache Blanc and equal parts Roussanne (aged 80% used barrels) and Clairette. White
peach, subtle honeysuckle and tinges of nuttiness all flow from this beauty and on the palate, it carries solid richness
while staying pure and graceful. It will continue to evolve gracefully. A goto estate in just about any vintage,
Domaine de la Janasse produced impressive wines in 2004. Both whites were outstanding (I was blown away by the
cuvee Prestige!) and aging gracefully, and all three reds showed uncommon fruit and texture in the vintage.
D
Domaine la Bastide Saint Dominique | Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc
28 Feb 2014
91/100
2010
UWS: 90/100
Greentinged yellow. Nervy and precise on the nose, offering intense citrus fruit and quince aromas complicated by
chalk and white pepper. Deeper in pitch on the palate, showing ripe pear and honey flavors and a zesty kick of
lemon pith. Closes on a refreshingly bitter note, with impressive clarity and length.
01 Jan 2012
90/100
In conversion to organic. Les Bédines, St Georges. 33% Grenache Blanc, 33% Clairette, 33% Roussanne, 100%
spends six months in inox. 5,000 bottles. Pale gold. Blossomy nose. Very rich start. Good green vegetal aromas
keep it fresh. Full bodied but not too heavy.
Jancis
Robinson © (JR) 29 Nov 2011 16,5/20
89
Crisp floral notes intermixed with tangerine oil, white currant and a bit of honey are all present in the medium to full
UWS: 90/100
Greentinged yellow. Nervy and precise on the nose, offering intense citrus fruit and quince aromas complicated by
chalk and white pepper. Deeper in pitch on the palate, showing ripe pear and honey flavors and a zesty kick of
lemon pith. Closes on a refreshingly bitter note, with impressive clarity and length.
White Wines France
01 Jan 2012
90/100
In conversion to organic. Les Bédines, St Georges. 33% Grenache Blanc, 33% Clairette, 33% Roussanne, 100%
spends six months in inox. 5,000 bottles. Pale gold. Blossomy nose. Very rich start. Good green vegetal aromas
keep it fresh. Full bodied but not too heavy.
Crisp floral notes intermixed with tangerine oil, white currant and a bit of honey are all present in the medium to full
bodied, fresh, lively 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape blanc. Drink it over the next several years. With 25 acres in
Chateauneuf du Pape and even more acreage in surrounding Cotes du Rhone areas, this exceptionally well run
estate has been producing high quality wines under the Bonnet family regime for at least a decade. The three 2010
Cotes du Rhones I tasted all merit consideration. The 2009 Chateauneuf du Papes are largely drinkable, with the
exception of Les Hesperides.
D
Domaine Fils et Fille (Jean-Claude) Fayolle | Hermitage White Les
Dionnières
31 Oct 2011
88/100
2005
UWS: 90/100
Has solid concentration, with lots of anise, dried peach, almond and floral notes running along a wellstructured
palate. There's a nice lingering brioche hint on the finish. Drink now through 2011. 25 cases imported. JM
D
Domaine Fils et Fille (Jean-Claude) Fayolle | Hermitage White Les
Dionnières
2009
UWS: 91/100
Rich yet racy, with distinctive Asian pear, white peach and chamomile notes backed by a long finish of salted butter.
Shows nice buried minerality. Drink now through 2013. JM
31 Jul 2011
91/100
90
White Wines France
Roussillon
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Domaine Lafage | Cotes du Roussillon Grenache Blanc Cuvee Centenaire
2009
UWS: 90/100
Cette cuvée grandiose est d'une rare densité, avec des notes minérales et solaires ala fois. Un compromis de lumière
et de matière. En bouche, cela se traduit par une multitude de fruits confits, d'agrumes, d'épices...
D
26 Jan 2012
16/20
2010
UWS: 90/100
From cobbled virtually seaside sites and a field blend of old Grenache Gris and (majority) Blanc with dollops of
Macabeu and Roussanne, raised in older barrique with a small portion fermented in demimuid, Lafage's 2010
Cuvee Centenaire going its predecessors onebetter represents the product of not two but three separate hand
pickings at different levels of potential alcohol, the smallest being truly vendange tardive. Fresh lime and luscious
honeydew melon are mingled with chalk and salt on a leesenriched palate that retains startling vibrancy and sheer
refreshment. (The pH level here is an amazingly low 3.2.) I'd like to see a floral dimension emerge here, as may well
happen with another 69 months in bottle, and I would expect this to perform well for twice that long. My lengthy
recent visit with JeanMarc and Eliane Salinas Lafage found them both up to their old, often amazing tricks
rendering wines of mindboggling value, as well as full of promising new ideas and cuvees. (I am not going to
underline mentions of value again and again in the notes that follow this will be obvious if you compare them with
the wines' suggested retail prices!) Readers are referred to my issue 183 report for further details on the activities of
this talented couple and on the Lafage estate with its vineyards along the coast east of Perpignan; around Maury;
and in the southwestern reaches of Les Apres, close to the Spanish border. Lafage considers 2010 more a year for
whites than reds while emphasizing just how difficult 2009 was for the former, but I have not tasted his 2009
whites, and he was not ready yet when I visited to allow tasting of any 2010 reds, even those at the low end of his
price list. Incidentally, Lafage's already farreaching but primarily Iberian consulting work now encompasses the
Chablisienne cooperative, from which I tasted an impressive, winsomely delicate, ultraKimmeridgian 2010 vintage
village wine. (I have published elsewhere in this report and that on the Languedoc which accompanies it, notes on
Lafage's work at the Chateau Auris in Corbieres and at his own Chateau Saint Roch in Maury.)
D
30 Jun 2011
90/100
2011
UWS: 92/100
The 2011 Cuvee Centenaire is another intriguing blend that demonstrates the brilliance of Eric Solomon in finding
wines of such high quality that are priced remarkably low. It is composed of 80% Grenache Blanc and Grenache
Gris (the latter grape is rarely seen) blended with 20% Roussanne, and aged in both stainless steel (70%) and new
French oak (30%). The Grenache vines, which are over 100 years of age, are planted within sight of the
Mediterranean Sea. Lots of wet gravel, crushed rock, honeysuckle, acacia flower, quince and white currant notes
give this wine a character that could easily be mistaken as a serious white Hermitage from the northern Rhone.
Perhaps it's the wine's minerality or power and richness. This evolved, medium goldcolored effort offers fresh, full
throttle flavors that would marry beautifully with intensely flavored fish dishes, saffronlaced seafood soups, or
shellfish. Enjoy it over the next several years.
D
Domaine Lafage | Côtes du Roussillon Novellum
30 Jun 2012
92/100
2011
UWS: 90/100
The outstanding 2011 Novellum competes with some of the finest MaconVillages wines one can find. It is made from
100% Chardonnay (from 25 to 30yearold vines), aged three months in a combination of Burgundy barrels (30%)
and stainless steel tanks (70%), and, somewhat innovatively, is aged on Viognier lees which gives it a honeysuckle
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91
and white peachscented nose. There is alsoPublished
a salty sea
breeze character reminiscent of the crushed oyster shelllike
note my colleague David Schildknect often detects in Loire Valley whites. This crisp, fresh, mediumbodied Cotes
White Wines France
UWS: 90/100
The outstanding 2011 Novellum competes with some of the finest MaconVillages wines one can find. It is made from
100% Chardonnay (from 25 to 30yearold vines), aged three months in a combination of Burgundy barrels (30%)
and stainless steel tanks (70%), and, somewhat innovatively, is aged on Viognier lees which gives it a honeysuckle
and white peachscented nose. There is also a salty sea breeze character reminiscent of the crushed oyster shelllike
note my colleague David Schildknect often detects in Loire Valley whites. This crisp, fresh, mediumbodied Cotes
Catalanes exhibits lots of earthy/terroir characteristics. Readers should think of it as a brisk, zesty, authoritatively
flavored Chardonnay from the cool, alluvial soils on the banks of the Aigly River.
30 Jun 2012
90/100
92
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Vin de Pays
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Domaine de Nizas | Vin de Pays d'Oc Blanc Sauvignon
2008
UWS: 90/100
Dix ans déjà que John Goelet, créateur de vignobles dans le monde entier, a racheté ce domaine, séduit par la
richesse unique du terroir aux croupes villafranchiennes cernées par des coulées basaltiques. Ce rosé en est un bel
ambassadeur avec ses arômes de pivoine, de fruits rouges et d'épices douces, sa bouche croquante et son équilibre
raffiné. Il reflète bien le génie du lieu, de même que la cuvée principale de rouge 2006 (11 à 15 €) qui décroche une
étoile pour sa finesse, son gras et la belle maîtrise de l'élevage sous bois.
D
Domaine La Colombette | Sauvignon Blanc Vin de Pays des Coteaux du
Libron
01 Jan 2010
2/3
2007
UWS: 90/100
Lots of mineral on the nose with underlying aromas of dried stone fruits. Slight touch of petrol and heaps of mineral
on the palate, freshened up with sweet passion fruit. (VD)
D
Domaine Lafage | Vin de Pays d'Oc Cote Est
10 Jul 2009
16/20
2007
UWS: 90/100
The Lafage 2007 Cote d'Est (already reviewed in issue 178) is from Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, Chardonnay,
and a bit of Marsanne, some grown near the ocean, some at high elevation near the Spanish frontier. Surprisingly,
the blend is assembled as juice (not as wine) following a 1215 day supercold settling period for each variety and
lot. Pungently redolent of toasted grain, citrus oil, pineapple, almond extract, and narcissus, rich and honeyed on
the palate, with persistently wafting floral notes and pungent counterpoint but no bitterness, this finishes with
haunting smokiness and honeyed length as well as a generous measure of sheer refreshment. Enjoy it until you can
get hold of the 2008 (which I shall in time to review in our August issue). Officially, there is just one Domaine
Lafage. But the singular is misleading, since more than 300 estate acres are spread among the coast due east of
Perpignon (where Lafage is the principle holder in a very small vinegrowing sector); the Aspres region in the
Pyrenean foothills of southern Roussillon; and the upper Agly Valley around Maury. As far as I am aware, there is
also just one JeanMarc Lafage. But given the range of wines at Domaine Lafage, his Chateau SaintRoch (see
elsewhere in this report), and numerous other estates and projects for whose vinification he is responsible (ranging
from the wildly successful wines of Las Rocas de San Alejandro in Calatayud to a new, joint FrancoSpanish sweet
wine venture) including experiments farflung in every sense of the word it's hard to believe he can juggle them
all. In fact, his wife Eliane SalinasLafage is Domaine Lafage's official oenologist. Amazingly, more than twothirds
of the estate's fruit is picked by hand, Lafage claims, with machines being used terrain and pruning permitting
(most of the estate vines are headpruned and not amenable) in cases where temperature is critical (since machines
work at night). The Lafage family has been growing wine near Perpignan for six generations, but the estate's
expansion is recent, as is their collaboration with U.S. agent Eric Solomon that has resulted in an annual array of
mindboggling values. Incidentally, these are generally bottled three times in the course of each vintage, but always,
Lafage insists, from the same huge (up to 12,000 case) assemblage.
D
Domaine Lafage | Vin de Pays d'Oc Cote Est
30 Jun 2009
90/100
2008
UWS: 90/100
Lafage's 2008 Cote Est (note the slightly different spelling of the name from previous years) comes from
Chardonnay, Marsanne, and old Grenache Blanc vines on cobbled soils near the coast, blended with the fruit of
centenarian Grenache Gris vines on Pyrenean schist. The wine is aged in tank on its fine lees and the result is not
only irresistibly delicious but truly complex.Published
Orangeby
and
lime zest, white pepper, narcissus, fennel, and mint in the
90pluswines.com
93
nose lead to a juicy, bright palate with musky floral perfume and a shimmering interchange of citrus with wet stone,
salt, iodine, and other ineffable mineral elements. This will fascinate and refresh in equal measure as well as
White Wines France
UWS: 90/100
Lafage's 2008 Cote Est (note the slightly different spelling of the name from previous years) comes from
Chardonnay, Marsanne, and old Grenache Blanc vines on cobbled soils near the coast, blended with the fruit of
centenarian Grenache Gris vines on Pyrenean schist. The wine is aged in tank on its fine lees and the result is not
only irresistibly delicious but truly complex. Orange and lime zest, white pepper, narcissus, fennel, and mint in the
nose lead to a juicy, bright palate with musky floral perfume and a shimmering interchange of citrus with wet stone,
salt, iodine, and other ineffable mineral elements. This will fascinate and refresh in equal measure as well as
fiendishly insinuate itself into your culinary regimen over the next 912 months, and could also be held a bit longer
without fear. JeanMarc Lafage and his importercollaborator Eric Solomon continue to render truly mind
boggling values. (For the most recent reds in the collection, consult my extended report on Lafage in issue 183.)
D
Domaine Magellan | Vin de Pays des Cotes de Thongue Blanc Alta
2003
UWS: 91/100
Rich, viscous white, with layers of delicious almond, mango kiwi and butterscotch flavors and distinctive notes of
cream and mineral on the finish. Fullbodied and distinctive, with an exotic allure. Keeps you coming back for more.
Grenache Blanc, Chardonnay, Roussane and Ugni Blanc. Drink now through 2008. 300 cases made. KM
Wine Spectator © (WS), Kim Marcus 15 Dec 2005 91/100
D
Maison Louis Latour | Chardonnay Vin de Pays des Coteaux de l'Ardèche
Grand Ardèche
1998
UWS: 90/100
La maison Louis Latour fondée à Beaune en 1797, installée sur les terres ardéchoises depuis 1979, produit des vins
qui séduisent régulièrement les dégustateurs. Le millésime 98 a une couleur soutenue avec des nuances dorées, un
nez puissant, marqué par des notes vanillées, minérales, suivi d'une bouche harmonieuse et ample. Il n'est pas sans
rappeler certains grands vins.
M
Grand Ardèche
01 Jan 2001
2/3
1999
UWS: 90/100
La célèbre maison bourguignonne Louis Latour, installée sur les terres ardéchoises depuis 1979, a une fois de plus
séduit nos dégustateurs, à tel point que le millésime 1999 reçoit le coup de coeur. Ce chardonnay, élevé dix mois en
fût de chêne, présente une robe limpide jaune d'or, un nez puissant, fin et élégant soutenu par des notes subtiles
d'épices, de vanille, de fruits exotiques et de miel. La bouche, ronde et charnue à souhait, vient confirmer le nez: des
arômes de miel et de pain d'épice emplissent le palais et contribuent à une finale longue et élégante. Ce vin
harmonieux et racé, qui symbolise l'équilibre entre le bois et le chardonnay, saura attendre deux ans avant d'être
dégusté sur un feuilleté de blanc de turbot, ou, plus original, sur des volailles rôties.
M
Grand Ardèche
01 Jan 2002
2/3
2004
UWS: 90/100
01 Jan 2008
13,5/20
La célèbre maison bourguignonne Louis Latour obtient la récompense suprême pour son chardonnay d'Ardèche.
D'un jaune d'or aux légers reflets verts, ce millésime éblouit par ses arômes complexes de miel et de fruits exotiques.
Puissant et gras, il se dégustera sur un feuilleté de blanc de turbot. Retenu avec deux étoiles, le Grand Ardèche
blanc 2003 (8 à 11 €) se montre fin et élégant. Ce vin aux notes subtiles d'épices (vanille) sera parfait sur une
volaille rôtie.
01 Jan 2006
3/3
94
UWS: 90/100
01 Jan 2008
White Wines France
13,5/20
La célèbre maison bourguignonne Louis Latour obtient la récompense suprême pour son chardonnay d'Ardèche.
D'un jaune d'or aux légers reflets verts, ce millésime éblouit par ses arômes complexes de miel et de fruits exotiques.
Puissant et gras, il se dégustera sur un feuilleté de blanc de turbot. Retenu avec deux étoiles, le Grand Ardèche
blanc 2003 (8 à 11 €) se montre fin et élégant. Ce vin aux notes subtiles d'épices (vanille) sera parfait sur une
volaille rôtie.
M
Grand Ardèche
01 Jan 2006
3/3
2007
UWS: 90/100
Fondée il y a plus de deux siècles, cette incontournable maison bourguignonne de négociantséleveurs, basée à
Beaune, a descendu la vallée du Rhône voilà une trentaine d'années pour construire sa propre cuverie en Ardèche,
dans le village historique d'AlbalaRomaine. Le jury n'a pu résister au charme de son chardonnay à reflets d'or. Le
passage de dix mois sous bois confère au nez une formidable richesse aromatique: fruits, fleur d'acacia, vanille,
café, pain grillé... Ce mariage parfait entre le cépage et le fût se retrouve dans un palais harmonieux, fin et
persistant, à la finale briochée. À savourer dans deux ou trois ans.
M
Mas Mudigliza | Vin de Pays des Cotes Catalanes Blanc Carmine
01 Jan 2010
2/3
2006
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
28 Apr 2011
3/5
The Mudigliza 2006 Carmine is a tankrendered Grenache of outstanding depth, subtlety, and refinement. Black
raspberry, roasted meats, rosemary, and a Franclike sweet and smoky note of machine oil all inform the nose. A
silken, slightly oily palate pours on black raspberry, blueberry and black cherry compote, seasoned with lavender
and rosemary and underlain with notes of dark chocolate and charred meat, all of which make for a fascinating and
attractively bittersweet finish. Enjoy this bargain as soon as you can get hold of some, but at the same time hold a
few bottles for at least a couple of years to see how they evolve. And wait until you taste the 2007 Carmine, which
has yet to be bottled but is already showing amazing complexity and polish! The proprietors have already
announced a significant price increase for that wine, and well they should given their outstanding achievements. Yet
another young Roussillon estate new to me, that of Dimitri Glipa and Muriel Samson has fielded an improbably
excellent white from old Grenache blanc and Maccabeu vines. A Thomas Calder Selection (various importers),
Paris; fax 01133146451529
M
Yves Cuilleron | Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes Roussanne
2009
UWS: 90/100
Lush and creamy, with lovely melon, apricot and yellow apple flavors kissed gently by toast through the pure,
delicious finish. Drink now. JM
31 Oct 2011
90/100
95
White Wines Germany
Mosel - Saar - Ruwer
Y
Dr Loosen Saint Johannishof | Bernkasteler Lay Riesling Kabinett
2007
UWS: 90/100
Has a flinty, minerally edge to the aromas, which are otherwise classic Mosel: green apple with a lemonlime
chaser. It's light, lean, racy and sweet all at once, with a cool stone core and tremendous length and cut on the
finish.
91/100
01 Oct 2009
Offering a sitetypical combination of black cherry and lime, the Loosen 2007 Bernkasteler Lay Riesling Kabinett
evinces a striking sense of levity (at only 7.5% alcohol) yet without tasting overly sweet. Instead, this is
unquenchably refreshing, with hints of smoke and pungent herbs adding to the invigorating effect of the finish. It
should be worth following for at least 79 years. Despite slightly disappointing dry wines, and Kabinetts and nobly
sweet wines that do not reach the heights established in those genres by this estate's 2005s and 2006s respectively,
Ernst Loosen and his cellarmaster Bernard Schug have nonetheless scored considerable success in 2007, a vintage
they describe as temperamentally between 2005 and 2004. As regards style and success rate, the comparison with
2004 seems about right to me. Harvest began already in the first week of October, but as usual at this address with
its enormous acreage of topnotch vineyards, the early phase was taken up principally with highly selective picking
for nobly sweet wine. From the first day to the last, comments Loosen, each picker gets two tubs for separating
qualities of fruit. And there were shriveled, TBAquality grapes already on the first day this year, adds Schug.
89/100
30 Jun 2009
Bordering on tart, this is a lean, bracing style that shows more apple and lime than peach. Certainly wakes up the
palate. Best from 2010 through 2020. 1,500 cases imported. BS
Wine Spectator © (WS), Bruce Sanderson 31 Mar 2009 88/100
This is rich in texture and body, with the bold ripeness pervasive in Bernkastel in 2007. It feels vibrant and energetic
on the finish underneath that richness.
Wine and Spirit Mag © (WSM) 01 Dec 2008 89/100
Pure fragrant lemon. Medium, pure, seems quite soft but the acidity gives backbone. (JH) £11.99 (approx retail)
Dr
08 Jul 2008
Dr Loosen Saint Johannishof | Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett
16,5/20
2008
UWS: 92/100
Decanter © (DC)
28 Apr 2011
4/5
This wine's peachy fruit is rich in texture, supported by bright, citrusy acidity. It needs some time to settle down and
shed its puppy fat, but its structure and length are superb.
01 Apr 2010
91/100
Loaded with peach and nectarine flavors, this juicy Riesling picks up a slate element that carries through the finish.
Shows lovely balance and harmony, with its tangy acidity submerged for now. Drink now through 2020. BS
28 Feb 2010
92/100
Pineapple, tangerine, sassafras, and lime scent the Loosen 2008 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett and
lusciously yet delicately saturate the palate. As with all of the best Loosen Rieslings this vintage, this displays great
textural allure in the form of subtle creaminess and lees enhancement, yet delivers all the citric refreshment and
vivid red slate smokiness one could ask for in its long finish. An outstanding value, it also represents the driest
tasting of the collection's sweet wines, and while it will doubtless retain its freshness for 15 or more years, it's the
Loosen Kabinett (aside from his feinherb) that I would first choose to utilize today. Ernst Loosen insists he aims to
observe an upper limit of 12.5% alcohol for his trocken bottlings, a level that one might have expected was easily
achievable in 2008; but in fact, a portion of this vintage's collection comes close to transgressing it. When it comes
to residually sweet Kabinett a genre in which Loosen has long excelled his frequentlyvoiced concerns that the
real thing was becoming almost impossible (or at least, impossibly expensive) to achieve nowadays certainly do not
apply to the 2008 vintage, when his collection of Kabinetts is not only superb, but also lively and featherlight.
Indeed, the whole 2008 Loosen Oeuvre while
consisting
of fewer wines than usual, with its nobly sweet selections
Published
by 90pluswines.com
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even more (and more spectacularly) focused than usual on Pralat is superb. What's more, even cellarmaster
Pineapple, tangerine, sassafras, and lime scent the Loosen 2008 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett and
lusciously yet delicately saturate the palate. As with all of the best Loosen Rieslings this vintage, this displays great
textural allure in the form of subtle creaminess and lees enhancement, yet delivers all the citric refreshment and
vivid red slate smokiness one could ask for in its long finish. An outstanding value, it also represents the driest
tasting of the collection's sweet wines, and while it will doubtless retain its freshness for 15 or more years, it's the
Loosen Kabinett (aside from his feinherb) that I would first choose to utilize today. Ernst Loosen insists he aims to
observe an upper limit of 12.5% alcohol for his trocken bottlings, a level that one might have expected was easily
achievable in 2008; but in fact, a portion of this vintage's collection comes close to transgressing it. When it comes
to residually sweet Kabinett a genre in which Loosen has long excelled his frequentlyvoiced concerns that the
real thing was becoming almost impossible (or at least, impossibly expensive) to achieve nowadays certainly do not
apply to the 2008 vintage, when his collection of Kabinetts is not only superb, but also lively and featherlight.
Indeed, the whole 2008 Loosen Oeuvre while consisting of fewer wines than usual, with its nobly sweet selections
even more (and more spectacularly) focused than usual on Pralat is superb. What's more, even cellarmaster
Bernard Schug voiced his amazement at just how little sweetness most of the residually sweet wines display.
White Wines Germany
28 Feb 2010
91/100
Tank sample. Lovely purity and focus. Marked acidity and wellsculpted delineation. Very slightly short.
Dr
Dr Loosen Saint Johannishof | Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett
10 Jun 2009
17/20
2006
UWS: 90/100
Loosen's 2006 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett has only 7.5% alcohol. I'm really proud of that, says Schug.
If there's still going to be Kabinett, it can't be an Auslese, it has to taste like Kabinett. Apple and lemon aromas lack
any recognizable Sonnenuhr character, but this is charming in its palate interplay of wet stone with apple, citrus,
and vanilla, with a faintly bitter side of the vanilla bean, apple pips, and tart fruit skin adding contrast and a bit of
chew to the delicate finish. It should be a joy to drink on its own over the next 57 years at least. Ernst Loosen,
Bernard Schug, and their team finished their harvest on October 6, before many growers had even begun. Thank
goodness we were able to bring 15 people up from Weingut J. L. Wolf in the Pfalz, says Loosen about the hectic and
heroic dayandnight harvest of 2006. We've never before had 50 people out there in the vineyards. Those guys
from the Pfalz had just plain had it at the end, I can tell you, adds Schug, without a trace of humor. But he brightens
when assessing the vintage as a whole. I considered the 2005s the best collection of my career, but at this stage, I
don't think 2006 as a whole is weaker. During the past three vintages in his collaborative work with Chateau Ste.
Michelle in Washington State, Loosen points out, he has moved on to their harvest after that of his own estate in the
cool climate 'Old World.'
31 Oct 2008
88/100
Fresh peppery citrus, quite a bit of intensity but still has the freshness I look for in a Kabinett.
Jancis Robinson © (JR) 05 Aug 2007 17/20
Dr
forstmeister Geltz Zilliken | Saarburger Rausch Riesling Kabinett
2003
UWS: 90/100
Bold and mediumbodied, this pushes the ripeness level, with tropical fruit and a white pepper element. It's a little
coarse on the finish, where it tails off. Drink now through 2008. 450 cases imported. BS
28 Feb 2005
87/100
Tense, introvert nose. Cooler, tarter and drier than most. Very freshing. All Zilliken's wines are particularly delicate.
fo
forstmeister Geltz Zilliken | Saarburger Rausch Riesling Kabinett
23 Jun 2004
17/20
2007
UWS: 90/100
A very fresh, pure, lifted and aromatic nose. This is a delicious wine with lovely style, full and fleshy, but balanced
with a little delicacy. A clean, sourjuicy finish completes the picture. This has some length too. An excellent
Kabinett.
Wine Doctor © (WD) 17 Mar 2012 16,5+17/20
Distinctively oily and petrollike in aroma, with hints of peaches and minerals. Even the texture is slightly oily, yet
this mediumbodied wine finishes clean and fresh.
01 Oct 2009
89/100
Subtle aromas of quince, cherry pit and lemon grass. Offers an elegant palate feel, with delicate freshness and crisp
minerality. Bright on the finish. A good effort
International Wine Cellar © (IWC), Joel B. Payne
01 Jan 2009
89/100
Delicate and spiceinfused, showing peach,Published
nectarinebyand
slate flavors allied to a vibrant, steely structure. This has
90pluswines.com
97
cut and dimension, lingering with a mouthwatering finish. Drink now through 2022. 600 cases imported. BS
with a little delicacy. A clean, sourjuicy finish completes the picture. This has some length too. An excellent
Kabinett.
Distinctively oily and petrollike in aroma, with hints of peaches and minerals. Even the texture is slightly oily, yet
this mediumbodied wine finishes clean and fresh.
White Wines Germany
01 Oct 2009
89/100
Subtle aromas of quince, cherry pit and lemon grass. Offers an elegant palate feel, with delicate freshness and crisp
minerality. Bright on the finish. A good effort
01 Jan 2009
89/100
Delicate and spiceinfused, showing peach, nectarine and slate flavors allied to a vibrant, steely structure. This has
cut and dimension, lingering with a mouthwatering finish. Drink now through 2022. 600 cases imported. BS
fo
Moritz Gogrewe | Wiltinger Klosterberg Riesling Spatlese
2004
UWS: 92/100
A 2004 Wiltinger Klosterberg Riesling Spatlese not harvested until November 29, and incorporating a couple of
choice parcels within that rather large site features scents and flavors of apricot, pear, and black cherry, offers a
superb combination of satiny texture, polish, ripeness, stuffing, and yet delicacy on the palate, finishing with lightly
cooked black cherry, nut oils, and wet stone. Despite Gogrewe's lack of track record, I would predict at least 810
years of fascinating evolution for this incredible value. The 2005 rendition harvested a month earlier in the year
was tripped up by bitterness. Also recommended: 2005 Saar Riesling feinberb ($ unknown; 85).
M
31 Oct 2006
Schloss Lieser | Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett
92/100
2004
UWS: 90/100
Very creamy, with lime and orange flavors, tangy acidity and a brisk profile. There's plenty of intensity and all the
elements are balanced. It just needs a few months to come together. Drink now through 2015. 25 cases imported.
BS
28 Feb 2006
90/100
Haag now has holdings in Brauneberg, which will make the steady qualitative evolution of this estate even more
fascinating to watch. His 2004 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett is delicate and fine grained, featherlight on
the palate, and yet subtly creamy in texture and saturated with aromas and flavors of clover, marigold, fresh apple,
nectarine, sweet herbs, and lime. The finish is incisively salty and slatey, with persistent, juicy fruit, and subtle
underlying suggestions of nut oils.
28 Feb 2006
89/100
Lively aromas of white peach and spearmint. Crisp, sweet apricot pit flavor is lifted by refreshing acidity. A light
and wellbalanced kabinett whose tangy minerality makes it fun to drink.
01 Jan 2006
87/100
Water white. Very cool, refreshing nose with attractive hazelnut aromas. Lots of fruit and life on the palate. Purity in
a bottle. Very exciting punch. Slightly chewy on the finish still.
Sc
01 Jul 2005
17/20
2007
UWS: 92/100
The Schloss Lieser 2007 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett smells of honeysuckle, clover, lime, and pear, lightly
shrouded in a yeasty, fermentative haze; fills the mouth with juicy and satisfyingly refreshing pear, Persian melon,
and lime; and finishes with pronounced sweetness, but lift, liveliness, and a lovely interplay of stone, spice, licorice,
and ripe fruits. This should remain a delight for at least a dozen years. Thomas Haag has enjoyed another
sensationally successful vintage, and given his penchant for extremely ripe, pure Riesling with high residual sugar, it
was perhaps not surprising that the virtues of 2007 would dovetail nicely with his favored style. Haag finished
harvesting already on October 27, but as he points out, his crew was able to go from morning until evening without
significant interruptions thanks to the persistently clear weather.
30 Jun 2009
90/100
Subtle aromas of pear, sweet herbs and lemon candy. Glossy apricot fruit with harmonious mineral structure frames
the palate. With its subtly sweet finish featuring brown spice and pleasing length, this is one of the finest kabinetts of
the vintage.
01 Jan 2009
92/100
98
Lush and creamy, in an elegant frame. Vanilla custard, peach and anise flavors meld perfectly with the fresh acidity,
and lime; and finishes with pronounced sweetness, but lift, liveliness, and a lovely interplay of stone, spice, licorice,
and ripe fruits. This should remain a delight for at least a dozen years. Thomas Haag has enjoyed another
sensationally successful vintage, and given his penchant for extremely ripe, pure Riesling with high residual sugar, it
was perhaps not surprising that the virtues of 2007 would dovetail nicely with his favored style. Haag finished
harvesting already on October 27, but as he points out, his crew was able to go from morning until evening without
significant interruptions thanks to the persistently clear weather.
White Wines Germany
30 Jun 2009
90/100
Subtle aromas of pear, sweet herbs and lemon candy. Glossy apricot fruit with harmonious mineral structure frames
the palate. With its subtly sweet finish featuring brown spice and pleasing length, this is one of the finest kabinetts of
the vintage.
01 Jan 2009
92/100
Lush and creamy, in an elegant frame. Vanilla custard, peach and anise flavors meld perfectly with the fresh acidity,
and this stays long and full of spice and slate accents on the finish. Drink now through 2023. 50 cases imported. BS
Racy, currant, blackcurrant leafy stuff with much more obvious sweetness than many Kabinetts. J&B ib £75
Sc
08 Jul 2008
17/20
2008
UWS: 90/100
Creamy in texture, this peach, lime and vanillaflavored white is rich upfront, with the bright structure showing on
the finish. Fine length. Drink now through 2020. 500 cases made. BS
28 Feb 2010
90/100
A yeasty overlay in the nose and faint corresponding milkiness on the palate of Schloss Lieser's 2008 Brauneberger
Juffer Riesling Kabinett render it initially harder to appreciate than its generic counterpart. Honeydew melon and
kiwi on the palate are joined by liquid perfume of lily and honeysuckle and this is almost weightless in its wafting
finish, with lipsmacking salinity and hints of herbal and brown spice pungency helping to invigorate and to balance
its sweetness. This is going to be a beauty and remain so for at least a decade, but it might take a couple of years for
it to shed its fermentative skin or then again, that might have happened already short term: such phenomena are
capricious. A danger in so many recent vintages , says Thomas Haag, was that growers told themselves 'I need a
Kabinett; I have to have Kabinett; I must pick sooner!' whereas this year, Kabinett was assured, even assuming you
waited long enough to do justice to vintage potential. Haag is one of numerous growers who subscribe to the notion
that (in his words) the mix of weather in 2008 was ideal, guaranteeing permanently adequate humidity of the soil, so
that mineral matter was released and could be taken up into the vines, as you can plainly taste. And given his
penchant for finesse, clarity, and delicacy, as well as for high residual sugar that demands efficacious acids to
balance, it's not surprising Thomas Haag has a high opinion of 2008. Indeed, his collection is among the vintage's
best. Haag essayed some selective picking for Beerenauslese, but like many growers decided that what he had
collected was better declassified, especially in view of how spoiled we have been by botrytis in recent years and how
tough are the present economic circumstances. Due to time constraints and the unusually extensive range of nobly
sweet wines here, Haag and I did not take time to taste his two trocken offerings, whose absence from the U.S.
market made it subsequently impossible for me to corral.
28 Feb 2010
89+/100
Bright aromas of peach pit, lemon oil and clove. Juicy kiwi fruit is nicely lifted by vibrant acidity and a floral
element. Dense yet ethereal, with a pleasing spiciness and an appealing finish, this is one of the best kabinetts of the
vintage.
01 Jan 2010
89/100
Picked 11 Oct to about 16 Nov. Very broad and floral and flattering expressive and great balance. Dances.
Beguiles. The only Kabinett they made.
Sc
Schloss Lieser | Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese
10 Jun 2009
17/20
2004
UWS: 90/100
Loads of slate, apple, peach and citrus aromas and flavors permeate this elegant white. It's balanced and silky, with
a long aftertaste of peach and mineral. It needs to resolve a little SO2, but this will age beautifully. Drink now
through 2022. BS
The nose of the 2004 Brauneberger JufferSonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese is both yeasty and floral. On the palate it is
subtly honeyed, persistently floral, and almost as delicate as this year's Juffer Kabinett. Nor does it lack for an
obvious measure of minerality. But there is too much reduction and fermentative overlay to get a clear view.
28 Feb 2006
86+?/100
Lively aromas of nectarine, white peach and
lime. Generous
apricot fruit with massive extract somehow remains
Published
by 90pluswines.com
99
elegant owing to the wine's tightly coiled spring of acidity. The creamy texture and mineral salts linger persistently
UWS: 90/100
Loads of slate, apple, peach and citrus aromas and flavors permeate this elegant white. It's balanced and silky, with
a long aftertaste of peach and mineral. It needs to resolve a little SO2, but this will age beautifully. Drink now
through 2022. BS
White Wines Germany
The nose of the 2004 Brauneberger JufferSonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese is both yeasty and floral. On the palate it is
subtly honeyed, persistently floral, and almost as delicate as this year's Juffer Kabinett. Nor does it lack for an
obvious measure of minerality. But there is too much reduction and fermentative overlay to get a clear view.
28 Feb 2006
86+?/100
Lively aromas of nectarine, white peach and lime. Generous apricot fruit with massive extract somehow remains
elegant owing to the wine's tightly coiled spring of acidity. The creamy texture and mineral salts linger persistently
on the utterly convincing finish. One of the finest spatleses of the vintage.
Sc
01 Jan 2006
Schloss Lieser | Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese
92+?/100
2005
UWS: 91/100
Gorgeous aromas of flowers, lime and mineral, with intensity and concentration matched by elegance and a silky
texture. Lovely harmony and balance. Fine finish and aftertaste that will gain in length after some time in bottle.
Best from 2008 through 2020. 50 cases imported. BS
94/100
28 Feb 2007
Pale yellow. Elegant aromas of apricot, pine nut and lime zest. The palate offers generous peach fruit and a creamy
texture yet retains a delicacy thanks to bright mineral acidity that lingers on the convincing finish.
90/100
01 Jan 2007
The Schloss Lieser 2005 Brauneberger JufferSonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese smells of spiced apple, talcum powder,
honey, vanilla, flowers, and licorice. A juicy, quite sweet, opulently rich and broad palate emphasizes apple and
banana tinged with bittersweet inner mouth florality. This is almost gaudy now and one has to accept overt
sweetness, but there is no denying this wine's intensity nor length of unblemished fruit, spices, and flowers.
Astonishingly at first glance, there are no regular Auslesen here this year.
Sc
Schloss Lieser | Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Riesling Kabinett
89/100
31 Oct 2006
2011
UWS: 91/100
An exuberantly fruity style, with a minerally aroma leading to succulent peach, apricot and ripe pear flavors that
feature fat notes of honey cream and spice. Finishes pure and rich. Drink now through 2024. KM
91/100
30 Apr 2013
A most gentle remnant of herbaceousness is succeeded by an intriguing combination of apple and cinnamon aromas.
Despite a light minerally touch, the primary appeal of this Kabinett is its mouthwatering expression of juicy yellow
fruit. A racy Riesling that dances on the palate. (MS)
Sc
30 Apr 2012
Schloss Lieser | Riesling Auslese Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Lieser NiederbergHelden
16,5/20
1999
UWS: 90/100
Plenty of stone nuances introduce this lively, flavorful white, whose lime and peach notes take on a licorice
aftertaste. Silky and filigreed, with an open structure. Drink now through 2008. 400 cases made. BS
Sc
30 Apr 2001
90/100
2000
UWS: 90/100
Distinctive almond, spice and slate notes are accented by lime in this elegant, succulent auslese. I like the balance
and the lightweight, yet firm, structure. Drink now through 2012. 60 cases made. BS
30 Apr 2002
90/100
100
White Wines Germany
UWS: 90/100
Distinctive almond, spice and slate notes are accented by lime in this elegant, succulent auslese. I like the balance
and the lightweight, yet firm, structure. Drink now through 2012. 60 cases made. BS
Sc
30 Apr 2002
90/100
2001
UWS: 90/100
Rich and juicy, with apple and peach notes set against a vibrant structure. A little more obvious in style, with a slight
astringency on the finish. Drink now through 2008. 200 cases made. BS
Sc
2002
UWS: 93/100
Classic Mosel flavors of apricot, lime and slate mark this effusive, elegant auslese. It's vibrant and tasty, but more
importantly, it really has a sense of place. Fine, tangerineinfused finish. Drink now through 2018. BS
Sc
2003
UWS: 92/100
Bright and focused, this combines concentration and elegance to usher its apricot, peach and mineral flavors
gracefully across the palate, picking up a licorice note on the finish. Fine balance and length. Drink now through
2020. 65 cases imported. BS
Sc
2004
UWS: 93/100
A beautiful auslese, very pure and focused, with detailed apple, peach and mineral flavors on an ethereal frame. It's
already wellintegrated, though there's still some matchstick evident in the aroma, so give it time. Best from 2007
through 2025. 75 cases imported. BS
Sc
30 Apr 2006
Stein | Riesling Spätlese Trocken Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Bremmer Calmont
93/100
2006
UWS: 91/100
Fermented for three months with natural yeasts in old Mosel fuder (casks), starting at 18 °C, then cooled down to
ambient cellar temperature of 14 °C. For the first eight weeks the wine was aged on its full lees, then for another
three months on fine lees only. 99 °Oechsle, TA 8.5 g/l, RS 7.7 g/l. Looking at the technical data, one might be
frightened by the acidity, but the wine has loads of fruit, yellow plums and sweet pears, the nose is quite exuberant,
almost perfumed, and a hint of botrytis adds to the complexity. Made all the more endearing by the moderate
alcohol. A tactile astringency on the finish promises cellaring potential. (MS)
01 Jan 2009
17/20
A broad, dry white, offering passion fruit, grapefruit and white pepper notes. Richness on the midpalate, with a firm,
stony finish. Drink now through 2016. 100 cases made. BS
Spectator © (WS),
PublishedWine
by 90pluswines.com
Bruce Sanderson
29 Feb 2008
89/100
101
UWS: 91/100
Fermented for three months with natural yeasts in old Mosel fuder (casks), starting at 18 °C, then cooled down to
ambient cellar temperature of 14 °C. For the first eight weeks the wine was aged on its full lees, then for another
three months on fine lees only. 99 °Oechsle, TA 8.5 g/l, RS 7.7 g/l. Looking at the technical data, one might be
frightened by the acidity, but the wine has loads of fruit, yellow plums and sweet pears, the nose is quite exuberant,
almost perfumed, and a hint of botrytis adds to the complexity. Made all the more endearing by the moderate
alcohol. A tactile astringency on the finish promises cellaring potential. (MS)
White Wines Germany
01 Jan 2009
17/20
A broad, dry white, offering passion fruit, grapefruit and white pepper notes. Richness on the midpalate, with a firm,
stony finish. Drink now through 2016. 100 cases made. BS
St
29 Feb 2008
Weingut Bernhard Eifel | Longuicher Maximiner Herrenberg Riesling
Spatlese
89/100
2003
UWS: 90/100
Very tasty. Creamy, with vanilla custard, lemon and floral notes, accented by mineral, this is open and inviting.
Trails off a little on the finish, but still outstanding. Drink now through 2015. 100 cases made. BS
28 Apr 2011
90/100
Complex and minerally, with hints of honey and powdered stone layered over ripe apples and peaches. It's medium
weight yet powerfully structured—ample acidity offsets the honeyed fruit. Picks up nuances of allspice and cinnamon
on the lingering finish.
W
Weingut Fritz Haag | Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett
2006
UWS: 90/100
The 2006 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett is higher in residual sugar than usual for this bottling, since it has
high (9 grams) acidity and plenty of extract to buffer the sugar, and the Haags were concerned to keep the alcohol
down in order to preserve Kabinettlightness. This indeed can boast clarity, refinement, and delicacy. Luscious
nectarine and white peach fruit, lemon, and melon will coat the mouth and lead to a refined, generously refreshing
finish in which an engaging, savory salinity as well as wet stone sensation of slate add interest. This is one of those
things nobody can copy from us Moselaner, remarks Wilhelm Haag, well aware that the Kabinett is fighting against
German ideological and fashion trends, as well as against recent weather. Oliver and Wilhelm Haag have fielded
their third sensational collection in a row, but then, superlatives are hardly new to this address, there are simply
more of them this year then ever before. Wilhelm Haag compares 2006 with 1953 a fabled vintage he remembers
helping to harvest as a teenager for its desiccated, incredibly healthy botrytis, adding I plan to drink these in my
second life. They started picking immediately after October 3, and when I asked Wilhelm Haag whether a particular
bottling had been picked early, he laughed and replied they were all picked early! When I saw the must weights that
were coming in, I thought they were too high for Spatlese and even Auslese, and that the wines would be too broad,
but I must say, today even with the botrytis they have a wonderfully elegant effect.
31 Oct 2008
92/100
A lovely kabinett, sleek and elegant, with lime, pineapple and mineral aromas and flavors. Vibrant and focused, with
a long finish. Fine dimension and complexity. Drink now through 2020. 300 cases imported. BS
29 Feb 2008
92/100
Pale yellow. Fine aromas of apple blossom, smoked almond and acacia honey. Quite luscious for a kabinett, but
with a fine mineral edge. Finishes with slate and allspice.
01 Jan 2008
88/100
Slightly spicy, fresh acidity, even mouthwatering. Not especially long but perfectly correct. Quite sweet for a
Kabinett a common occurrence it seems, in 2006.
W
Weingut Fritz Haag | Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Spatlese
2004
UWS: 91/100
Hint of honeyed development over stillpure lemon/lime fruit; sweet but has that lime freshness through the middle.
Very young still. Tension between sweetness and acidity just resolved into a whole but has a long way to go. (JH)
30 Apr 2011
17/20
A zinger. The racy structure sets the stage for lime, apple, coriander, cardamom and mineral aromas and flavors in
this sleek Riesling. It's very pure, filigreed and
mouthwatering,
building in intensity to the lingering finish. Best from
Published
by 90pluswines.com
102
2008 through 2025. BS
UWS: 91/100
White Wines Germany
Hint of honeyed development over stillpure lemon/lime fruit; sweet but has that lime freshness through the middle.
Very young still. Tension between sweetness and acidity just resolved into a whole but has a long way to go. (JH)
30 Apr 2011
17/20
A zinger. The racy structure sets the stage for lime, apple, coriander, cardamom and mineral aromas and flavors in
this sleek Riesling. It's very pure, filigreed and mouthwatering, building in intensity to the lingering finish. Best from
2008 through 2025. BS
The 2004 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Spatlese might not be the best visitors' card for this excellent site. It sticks
with relatively simple though juicy and generous apple fruit and firm slate underpinnings, without exhibiting the
subtlety of texture and flavor interplay, nor the impeccable balance that characterize most of the wines here this
year. The finish is full of slate, sap, and snappy if relatively singleminded apple fruit, and displays considerable
overt sweetness. Could it be that this just needs time to work off bottle sickness and sheer sweetness, and that the
sort of complexity and interplay one would expect this vintage will in time emerge? I too am asking myself 'What's
with this wine?', says Oliver Haag. To be revisited.
W
28 Feb 2006
Weingut Grans-Fassian | Trittenheimer Riesling Kabinett
87+?/100
2001
UWS: 91/100
This wine has a very typical Riesling colour. Lovely nose, which clearly reflects the success of the vintage. It's very
ripe, displaying white fruit aromas with a tropical edge, laced with notes of flinty, slatey minerals and flowerpetals.
This rich character is followed through on the palate, which is ripe, fleshy, dense and mouthfilling, more like a
Spätlese that your average Kabinett no surprise, as many Kabinett wines of this vintage were in fact bottled at
Spätlese ripeness levels and above. This is balanced by fresh, zippy acidity. It's a glorious combination, which
remains through a balanced, savoury, mouthwatering finish.
Wine Doctor © (WD) 17 Mar 2012 16,5/20
This is an atypically big, mouthfilling kabinett, full of stone fruits, such as peach and nectarine, as well as some red
fruits—perhaps cherries. Despite its richness and kaleidoscopic waves of fruit, it never seems heavy, coming
elegantly to a long and mouthwatering close.
Wine Enthusiast © (WE) 01 Mar 2003 91/100
Terrific kabinett. Fine aromas and flavors of lime, vanilla pastry and minerals penetrate the creamy texture. It's all
balanced by vibrant acidity, ending in a long cascade of lime and stone. Drink now through 2010. 800 cases made.
BS
W
Weingut Hoffmann-Simon | Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling Spatlese
28 Feb 2003
90/100
2005
UWS: 91/100
An exotic style, with apricot, papaya and passion fruit flavors. Concentrated, but a touch more acidity would add
precision and length on the finish. Drink now through 2015. 55 cases imported. BS
W
Weingut Hoffmann-Simon | Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling Spatlese
28 Feb 2007
91/100
2008
UWS: 91/100
Loaded with brown spices, tangy acidity and Golden Delicious apple notes, this starts out rich, yet the structure
reins it in on the finish. Mouthwatering. Best from 2012 through 2024. BS
W
Weingut Hoffmann-Simon | Riesling Kabinett Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Piesporter
Goldtröpfchen (AP 3)
28 Feb 2010
91/100
2008
103
White Wines Germany
UWS: 91/100
Pungent, with a savory edge to the apple, grapefruit and mineral flavors. It's all undercut by a racy, highvoltage
structure that keeps this light wine in a highenergy state. Fine length. Best from 2012 through 2021. BS
W
Weingut J J Christoffel | Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Kabinett
2005
UWS: 90/100
Again a pale hue, almost spring water clear although with a faint hint of yellowgreen hue. There follows such a
lovely, open, lifted nose, full of pear and peach stones, apples and talcy minerals, wet pebble and the freshness of
crashing surf. This vivacity carries through onto the palate, which shows some 2005 fatness although with delightful,
precise, very well defined fruit and acidity. There is a crisp edge, with a little spritz just like the Trocken version,
keeping it fresh and lively on the palate. Again a broad, filled out style, although with a much greater persistence on
the finish. This and the trocken are both prime examples of their respective styles, although with the caveat that they
reflect the richness of the vintage. My personal preference is for this wine over the previous, but in terms of intrinsic
quality they are exceptionally close.
Bright and tangy Light on its feet, displaying lime, apple and mineral notes. Needs time to knit and open, but should
be ideal around summer 2007 for its fresh fruit flavors. Drink now through 2012. 500 cases imported. BS
28 Feb 2007
90/100
The residually sweet 2005 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Kabinett offers aromas of strawberry jam, caramelized
apple, and brown spices. But for all the ripeness those aromas suggest, and despite a creamy texture, this also draws
on reserves of fresh, tart strawberry and subtle citricity to keep it lithe and lively. It finishes with bittersweet
licorice and vanilla accents to its strawberry fruit.
W
31 Oct 2006
87/100
2006
UWS: 90/100
Fresh strawberries, hyacinth, and green tea scent Christoffel's 2006 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Kabinett. On the
palate, this displays genuine Kabinett delicacy such as few wines from its vintage can manage, with lovely inner
mouth floral perfume and a finish that is captivating in its interplay of red fruit, flowers, wet stone, and salt, and in
which the high residual sweetness (despite 9.5% alcohol) almost miraculously backs off. It can scarcely be often
enough repeated especially when confronted with a wine of such uncanny balance as this that as recently as a
dozen years ago, a Christoffel Riesling with this level of ripeness was bottled as Auslese, and until the 1990s, such
wines were only harvested one year in three. Enjoy this little gem anytime over the next 10, perhaps 15 years. How
strange: despite the quality of Christoffel's 2005 collection, its Kabinett bottlings were relatively weak, whereas in
2006 of all vintages, his Kabinetts excel. HansLeo Christoffel says he thought Robert Eymael must be jumping the
gun when he began the harvest here, even though it was the 9th of October, but that it turned out not to have been
too early at all. Well, I wouldn't ever have been able to catch up otherwise, says Eyamel, there weren't that many
pickers available. In three weeks, we finished. And with what results! For further details on the ChristoffelEymael
collaboration, consult issue 163, and for notes on Eymael's exceptional solo 2006 collection, see under Monchhof
below.
31 Oct 2008
92/100
Pale yellow. Bright, floral aromas of pineapple, acacia blossom and lemon oil. Crisp, rather delicate passion fruit
flavor is kept clean and fresh by mineral spice. A fine kabinett with pleasing length.
01 Jan 2008
88/100
Beautiful balance highlights this enticing Riesling. Peach, golden apple, cinnamon and citrus notes meld with the
lively structure as this cruises to a lingering finish. The slate character shows on the finish. Drink now through 2020.
BS
There's a luscious feel to this wine's tropical fruit flavors, held down by dark notes of slate and prominent acidity. Its
richness makes it feel more like Spätlese than Kabinett, but it's balanced well.
104
31 Oct 2008
92/100
Pale yellow. Bright, floral aromas of pineapple, acacia blossom and lemon oil. Crisp, rather delicate passion fruit
flavor is kept clean and fresh by mineral spice. A fine kabinett with pleasing length.
01 Jan 2008
88/100
Beautiful balance highlights this enticing Riesling. Peach, golden apple, cinnamon and citrus notes meld with the
lively structure as this cruises to a lingering finish. The slate character shows on the finish. Drink now through 2020.
BS
White Wines Germany
There's a luscious feel to this wine's tropical fruit flavors, held down by dark notes of slate and prominent acidity. Its
richness makes it feel more like Spätlese than Kabinett, but it's balanced well.
W
2008
UWS: 90/100
Round and fleshy for the vintage, yet with good underlying acidity. Apple and nectarine flavors border on candied,
in a positive way. Very long and expansive on the finish. Drink now through 2022. BS
Kiwi, brown spices, and hints of Treppchenlike sassafras grace the nose of Christoffel's 2008 Urziger Wurzgarten
Riesling Kabinett, which comes to the palate with a fine balance of subtle creaminess and refreshment, apple pit
bitterness and wet stone helping to balance out a slightly superfluous sweetness that this will lose perhaps halfway
through its anticipated 1520 year lifespan. HansLeo Christoffel can continue to point out that an abundance of
ripeness has made for Pradikat inflation , yet even he will admit that his and partner Robert Eymael's 2008 vintage
Kabinetts would have been topnotch Spatlesen during the 1980s, but not Auslesen. Speaking of which, not only did
Christoffel and Eymael offer a complete range of 2008 Auslesen, they also did not begin picking any of them until
late, insisting that there was not enough rain during harvest to dampen and diminish the value of botrytis as it
collected on the grapes. Noble rot affected around 2030% of the base material for those wines, an impressive group
if not (in its early days, at least) on the stellar level often reached at this address.
W
28 Feb 2010
Weingut Karthauserhof | Eitelsbacher Karthauserhofberg Riesling Spatlese
89/100
2007
UWS: 92/100
Lovely bright fruit on the nose here, aromatic and clean. It has marvellous precision, pervasive and tingling acidity,
and a taut, stylish and yet accessible composition. This is truly excellent.
A broad style, awash with honey, butter, peach, lime and slate notes. Wellintegrated and lush, yet backed by a firm
structure. The finish lingers, with honey and mineral accents. Better than previously reviewed. Drink now through
2032. 500 cases made. BS
W
30 Apr 2009
Weingut Meulenhof (Justen) | Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese
92/100
2002
UWS: 90/100
Loads of white peaches are detected in the nose of the light to mediumbodied, generous 2002 Riesling Spatlese
Erdener Treppchen. Lush, spicy, generously fruity, and armed with excellent depth, this is a soft, smileinducing,
edgefree effort for drinking over the next dozen years.
eRobertParker.com © (WA), Pierre Rovani
29 Feb 2004
88/100
Exotic, tasting of mandarin orange, apricot and slate, all elegantly displayed on the lightweight frame. Real finesse
and delicacy in a rich vintage, with a spicy character and persistence on the finish. Drink now through 2015. 340
cases made. BS
W
Weingut Reinhard & Beate Knebel | Winninger Bruckstuck Riesling Spatlese
Feinherb Alte Reben
2005
105
White Wines Germany
UWS: 91/100
The 2005 Winninger Bruckstuck Riesling Spatlese feinherb Alte Reben emphasizes the licorice character that
accrues to several sites in the Winningen area. There is also ample florality and wet stone minerality on display. In
the mouth, this exhibits palpable density along with striking creaminess of texture and lovely richness of caramelized
pear, mochacoffee, and licorice. The long finish continues to play caramelized orchard fruit and deep, roasted notes
against bittersweet herbal and floral essences. This should become more interesting over at least a 15 or 20year
period. This year's wines are not so easy to taste, warned Beate Knebel. ... too multilayered and dense. Who's
complaining?! She and cellarmaster Gernot Kollmann have again teamed up for one of the finest collections of the
vintage, in which incidentally every wine from estate Riesling to B. A. spontaneously fermented, finishing by
February. One wants to believe that with wines of this caliber as well as those of Clemens Busch and others
joining the betterknown offerings of HeymannLowenstein, North American Riesling enthusiasts can at last discover
the quality potential of the Lower Mosel as distinctive and truly awesome as are its vertiginous, terraced slopes.
W
Weingut Reuscher Haart | Riesling Kabinett Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Piesporter
Goldtröpfchen (AP 3)
91/100
28 Feb 2007
2008
UWS: 90/100
A little austere now and unyielding, with the racy structure dominating the flavors of black currant, peppery greens
and grapefruit, followed by a tight, bracing finish. Needs time. Best from 2012 through 2021. BS
This is zesty without being bracing, the nectarine, pear and lime flavors harmoniously intertwined with the
supporting acidity and persistent minerality. It finishes cool and clean.
W
Weingut Willi Haag | Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese
2007
UWS: 92/100
Marcus Haag's 2007 Brauneberger JufferSonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese comes from the socalled Junger Wingert
portion of the Sonnenuhr site. A bouquet of buddleia, mint, fennel, and ripe peach leads to a palate with especially
stark and scintillating juxtaposition of creaminess with profuse, luscious, bright pear and peach. Hints of pear skin
and orange zest along with savory salinity enhance the invigorating, lipsmacking character of a polished
performance that should justify at least a 15 year run. Marcus Haag has enjoyed another highly successful vintage
in 2007, when his harvest lasted from October 1227. Various importers including Winebow Inc., Montvale, NJ; tel.
(201) 4450620
91/100
30 Jun 2009
Minerals and very lean and clean. Lots of open opulent fruit. Zesty and lots of greengage fruit. A real fruitpacked
mouthful. So clean!
W
08 Jul 2008
17,5/20
2008
UWS: 91/100
Pineapple, mango, and banana in the nose of the Willi Haag 2008 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Spatlese lead to a
palate of creamy richness, with the cool mint and honeydew melon side of the vintage emerging to prominence and
offering a fascinating counterpoint with the wines tropical fruit aspects. This lacks the refreshment, refinement, or
minerality of the corresponding Juffer, but is certainly strongfinishing and should keep well for at least a decade.
Marcus Haag felt that in view of the quality of wine he has been bottling as Spatlese in recent vintages, it would be
better to conservatively bottle most of his 2008s as Kabinett, and in view of the understated nature of even many of
the best of them, this was probably a wise move. Wines at this address have long represented very good value, and
keeping them in the lower Pradikat echelons enhances that. Nevertheless, I would first seek out Haag's often
outstanding 2007s (which I reported on in issue 185). Various importers including Winebow Inc., Montvale, NJ; tel.
(201) 4450620
106
28 Feb 2010
89/100
UWS: 91/100
Pineapple, mango, and banana in the nose of the Willi Haag 2008 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Spatlese lead to a
palate of creamy richness, with the cool mint and honeydew melon side of the vintage emerging to prominence and
offering a fascinating counterpoint with the wines tropical fruit aspects. This lacks the refreshment, refinement, or
minerality of the corresponding Juffer, but is certainly strongfinishing and should keep well for at least a decade.
Marcus Haag felt that in view of the quality of wine he has been bottling as Spatlese in recent vintages, it would be
better to conservatively bottle most of his 2008s as Kabinett, and in view of the understated nature of even many of
the best of them, this was probably a wise move. Wines at this address have long represented very good value, and
keeping them in the lower Pradikat echelons enhances that. Nevertheless, I would first seek out Haag's often
outstanding 2007s (which I reported on in issue 185). Various importers including Winebow Inc., Montvale, NJ; tel.
(201) 4450620
White Wines Germany
89/100
28 Feb 2010
Concentrated, intense, introvert with appley sweetness. Jewelly multifaceted. Quite sweet.
W
10 Jun 2009
17/20
2009
UWS: 90/100
Scents of peach and musk melon in the most of the Willi Haag 2009 Brauneberger JufferSonnenuhr Riesling
Spatlese presage a generously juicy, conspicuously sweet, polished, palate performance that culminates in a
soothing, subtly stonelined finish. I suspect this relatively soft Spatlese will be best enjoyed over the next decade.
According to Inge Haag, the impact of sporadic October rain was greater in Brauneberg than in most other Mosel
villages, and losses to perosopera and negative botrytis led to an unusually small crop (reflected inter alia in the
relative absence of wines that require reference to their A.P.#s to disambiguate!) and a relatively early conclusion to
the harvest in the final days of October. Must weights, notes Markus Haag, were in an unusually narrow band this
year, the choice of which lots to declare as being of which Pradikat falling almost entirely on the basis of style. Fruit
from the Burgerslay vineyard so often responsible for the most distinctively delicious wines at this address was in
2009 spread around rather than being dedicated to a single bottling. Numero , including Atlanta Improvement Co.;
eRobertParker.com © (WA), David Schildknecht 31 Dec 2010 88/100
Ripe yellow fruit aromas, a little spirity. Clean and fresh, yellow fruit, juicy and supple, silky texture. Generous
without being overbearing, wellintegrated acidity. (MS)
W
19 Jun 2010
Weingut Willi Schaefer | Graacher Domprobst Riesling Kabinett
16,5/20
2000
UWS: 91/100
W
Weingut Willi Schaefer | Riesling QbA Mosel
2004
UWS: 90/100
Balanced, crisp and full of peach, apple and lime flavors, this white is focused and juicy. It ends with a
mouthwatering finish. Drink now through 2010. 580 cases made. BS
30 Apr 2006
88/100
Fresh and clean on the nose and very bright fruit. Jewelbright. Lots of the Lucozade factor and quite sweet.
01 Jul 2005
16,5/20
107
White Wines Germany
Nahe
W
Weingut Hermann Donnhoff | Riesling QbA Nahe
2007
UWS: 90/100
An alluring estate Riesling, featuring floral, grapefruit, orange and stone notes. Fine harmony and length fill out the
profile. Drink now through 2015. BS
W
Weingut Hermann Donnhoff | Riesling QbA Nahe
2008
UWS: 90/100
Harmonious and succulent, this epitomizes the crisp, vibrant style of the vintage. Its acidity is balanced by intensity
and a supple texture, ending clean and refreshing. Drink now through 2014. BS
W
Weingut Kruger-Rumpf | Munsterer Pittersberg Riesling Kabinett
90/100
28 Apr 2011
2001
UWS: 90/100
This has snap. A lovely kabinett, rich and creamy in texture, yet elegant and piquant, offering peach, citrus and
mineral flavors. Drink now through 2008. 130 cases made. BS
91/100
28 Feb 2003
Produced from a vineyard dominated by slate, the 2001 Riesling Kabinett Munsterer Pittersberg reveals a nose of
flowers, verbena, and bergamots (the pearshaped orange used to flavor Earl Grey tea). Light to mediumbodied,
this excellent value displays admirable depth to its delicatelystrewn stony, floral, eucalyptus, and earthy
personality. Drink it over the next 56 years.
eRobertParker.com © (WA), Pierre Rovani 31 Dec 2002 89/100
W
Weingut Kruger-Rumpf | Riesling Kabinett Nahe Münsterer Kapellenberg
2008
UWS: 92/100
The grapes for their 2008 Munsterer Kapellenberg Riesling Kabinett, relate Rumpfs, were fully ripe, indeed on the
point of turning from golden to pale purple, yet still not hugely high in must weight (though significantly higher than
for the corresponding Rheinberg). Ripe strawberry and pear are nicely supported by the wine's sweetness, and fresh
lime, nut oils and salt add interest on a glossy but buoyant palate and a persistently sappy and saline as well as
dynamic finish. Like the Rheinberg, it's unapologetically but not excessively sweet. Enjoy it over the next ten or a
dozen years. The Rumpfs seem in 2008 to have had to struggle less to avoid the greenness that was observed in
certain of their 2007s. There was just nothing you could do this year, comments Georg Rumpf, except let the fruit
hang a long time on the vine.
89/100
28 Feb 2010
Easy, curls round the palate, great lateral spread. Lemon and lots of ripe fruit. This should surely please classicists
enormously.
W
Weingut Prinz zu Salm-Dalberg | Riesling Kabinett Nahe
10 Jun 2009
17,5/20
2011
UWS: 91/100
Toasted aromas lead to a sleek frame of apple, passion fruit and lime flavors that are a touch austere, holding their
power in reserve. The slatefilled finish is intense and very sleek. Best from 2013 through 2025. KM
108
White Wines Germany
UWS: 91/100
Toasted aromas lead to a sleek frame of apple, passion fruit and lime flavors that are a touch austere, holding their
power in reserve. The slatefilled finish is intense and very sleek. Best from 2013 through 2025. KM
109
White Wines Germany
Other
W
Weingut Robert Weil | Germany Riesling Spatlese Trocken
2004
UWS: 90/100
Weil's 2004 Riesling Spatlese trocken smells overtly floral, alkaline, salty, iodinelike and nutty. In the mouth, this
Riesling from the Wasseros vineyard (but generically labeled, as are all Weil wines other than those from the
Grafenberg) is positively dramatic in its briny expression of minerality, and it finishes with lowtoned meaty, nutty
richness. Tasters like myself will love this wine's uncompromising style and will want to invite it to the dinner table,
but there will be those whose enthusiasm for it is tempered by the wine's single minded minerality. Wilhelm Weil
insists that his 2004s are more consistently ripe than were his 2001s, since the accumulation of sugars this year was
more gradual and there was not the extreme contrast presented by a cool, rainy September and a warm October of
2001. Two thousand four, after all, he says, displays the classic virtues we theoretically ascribe to Riesling: long
ripening, late harvest, and conditions on the climatic margins. I found considerable qualitative variation this year,
though, on account of factors other than sheer ripeness. That said, the outstanding 2004 Weil Rieslings and these
are in the clear majority include some breathtaking successes. Furthermore, the quantities behind some of the most
exciting of these are far larger than in any previous vintages of this estate. Imported by Rudi Wiest, Cellars
International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. (800) 5969463
31 Oct 2005
90/100
110
White Wines Germany
Rheingau
W
Weingut August Kesseler | Rheingau
2006
UWS: 90/100
The 2006 Rheingau represents a traditional, drytasting blend of Silvaner and Riesling, and a fantastic value, based
on fruit from the steep slate slopes of Lorch, and outfitted with a label that simple says Kesseler Rheingau. Pear,
herb, and nut oil aromas and flavors inform this juicy, subtly creamy and utterly delightful white. Nor does it lack
for a sense of slate stone minerality, and indeed on different soil it is impossible to imagine Silvaner with this degree
of poise and delicacy. Enjoy this versatile and supremely refreshing wine within 23 years of harvest. Kesseler
suffered a 50% loss in crop from his longterm average, but ruthless selectivity on top of his usual low yields paid
dividends in quality albeit at the price of prominent sweetness. Kesseler attempted neither a Kabinett, nor (insisting
that botrytis and alcohol would have been too evident) did he essay any dry wines from his estate holdings in
Rudesheim. The 2005 vintage reds bottled in mid2007 have fulfilled their excellent promise. Needless to say,
from these steep stone sites, and cropped at the levels requisite for top quality, Kesseler Pinot Noirs do not come
cheap. But they certainly invite comparison with red Burgundies selling for comparable prices. And while they are
all very ripe, none of these 2005s betray their alcohol in bitterness or heat. Various importers including: Classic
Wine Imports, Boston, MA tel. 800 362 4420; Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 3899463; Ewald
Moseler Selections, Portland, OR; tel. (503) 2369370
W
31 Oct 2008
Weingut August Kesseler | Rheingau
90/100
2009
UWS: 90/100
The Kessler 2009 SilvanerRiesling displays luscious apricot and pineapple tinged with oregano, lemon grass, and
salt, and seemingly underlain by wet stone. There is a striking sense of transparency to mineral underpinnings as
well as of lift to the long juicy finish that is further accented by bitter hints of melon rind. This (as often) sensational
value whose like one has to scour the world of wine to find elsewhere (Muscadet, anyone?) should be enjoyed within
23 years. (Beginning with the present vintage, the label on this for most Americans unfamiliar as well as recession
beating blend is the same as that of the estates other wines.) August Kesseler and his cellarmaster Max Himstedt
promise great things from their 2009 Pinot Noirs but they were not yet ready to show them last September. In light of
that allegedly outstanding quality as well as of the difficult market, they decided that their 2008 collection in red
should culminate at the Cuvee Max quality level and not include vineyarddesignated bottlings. In his usual
conservative and marketsensitive approach, Kesseler also elected to bottle from 2009 one of his smallest Riesling
collections in memory, inter alia forgoing any attempt to capture what little botrytis was present. Irrigation was
critical during the late summer drought, insists Kesseler, otherwise, we would have harvested grapes in the
Rudesheimer Berg of only 80 or 85 Oechsle.
W
31 Jan 2011
Weingut Robert Weil | Rheingau Riesling Trocken
90/100
2001
UWS: 90/100
Green apples and lime. Very open and relatively light. Lively but not especially long. Some light honey characters
on this 11.5 per center.
14 Sep 2002
16/20
111
White Wines Germany
Rheinhessen
W
Weingut Geil | Bechtheimer Geyersberg Riesling Spatlese
2007
UWS: 91/100
Like a tropical fruit salad, this has pineapple, banana, mango and apricot aromas and flavors. It's backed by a lively
structure and stays elegant and focused. Drink now through 2022. BS
W
Weingut Geil | Riesling Kabinett Rheinhessen Bechtheimer Rosengarten
2008
UWS: 90/100
Finetuned balance and harmony bring together peach, nectarine and grapefruit flavors and a vibrant structure in
this juicy white, which picks up white pepper and mineral hints on the long finish. Drink now through 2020. BS
112
White Wines Germany
Rheinpfalz
W
Weingut Herbert Messmer | Riesling Kabinett Feinherb Pfalz Muschelkalk
2008
UWS: 90/100
Plenty of mineral flavors mark this sleek, offdry white. Grapefruit and apple hold your attention through the dry
finish. Drink now through 2015. BS
28 Feb 2010
89/100
As I explained in my issue 185 report on Messmer, increasingly many Pfalz wineries are using geological
designations as proxies for site designations, and of five Riesling bottlings solabeled by Messmer, his 2008 Riesling
Kabinett feinherb Muschelkalk (from the Schlossgarten) is the only one that did not ferment to legal Trockenheit. A
lovely aromatic display of lime and linden flower, green tea and ginger leads to a buoyant palate impression
suffused with chalkiness and invigorating salinity. Texturally refined, and with impeccably integrated barely
noticeable sweetness, this should prove versatile over the next 46 years. It had been too long since I'd seen
Gregor Messmer (although I am at his winery annually) and I was encouraged by witnessing him professing his
rededication to his vineyards. That said, after a 2007 collection that was the best I had tasted here in a number of
years, I found that some of these 2008s which were harvested between the 18th and 30th of October leaned rather
sharply in the direction of leanness and Sauvignon greenness and shared with many of their fellow Pfalz trocken
Rieslings an extremely tart brightness. Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc.,
Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 6779300
28 Feb 2010
88/100
Dry and intensely mineraldriven, this is much more about soil than fruit, feeling stony, energetic and finely
polished. It's very long and fragrant on the finish, and should develop even more harmony and complexity with
another year in the cellar.
W
Weingut Kurt Darting | Durkheimer Nonnengarten Riesling Kabinett
2008
UWS: 90/100
A rich, muscular style of kabinett, featuring grapefruit and apricot flavors with hints of white pepper and mineral.
Balanced in its extroverted way. Long. Drink now through 2018. BS
113
White Wines Greece
Other
W
Domaine Hatzimichalis | Atalante Veriki
2006
UWS: 90/100
The 2006 VERIKI is a 5050 Chardonnay/Robola blend. It has fine body, a feeling of substance and gravitas, and
some grassy nuances that become apparent after it warms up and airs out. You don't notice the acid at first because
of the wine's depth and mouthfeel, but there is a crisp, mouthwatering finish. An hour after opening, it is still fresh,
fruity, flavorful and persistent. This is well priced and a wine that should be able to hold for a few years. The blend
is unusual, but the more I drank it, the more I liked it. It grows on you—a good sign. Note: Although I do not believe
the 2007 will be available in the USA, I feel constrained to note that the 2007 Veriki samples I saw showed some
problems and did not show nearly as well as the 2006. The '08 vintage will be available soon but as yet it is
untasted. Drink the 2006 vintage from now2012.
eRobertParker.com © (WA), Mark Squires 31 Aug 2009 90/100
D
Domaine Hatzimichalis | Atalante Veriki
2008
UWS: 90/100
The 2008 VERIKI is a 5050 Chardonnay/Robola blend. A little bit of initial funk on the nose blew off and gave way
to a bright, rather gripping wine that seems to be in good form again this year. It has good depth and concentration
as well as persistence on the finish. The well integrated lemony notes make it both a pleasure to drink and a nice
value. As it airs out, it shows more steel and minerals. The suggested (that is, list ) retail price has actually dropped
$2. Note: If you are wondering why there is no 2007, I was advised, after contacting the importer about some
oxidative problems with the wine, that it was being withdrawn from the USA marketplace. If it somehow is
encountered, exercise caution. Drink now2013. Hatzimichalis is a well known Greek winery that emphasizes
international grapes. While that is not everyone's vision of Greek wines, this winery does a nice job with grapes like
Chardonnay and Cabernet and it provides some very nice values in the whites and lower level reds, to the point
where one wonders why it is worth trading up. Bottlings like the Vacchius Vinum and Opous wines run around 40
Euros in Greece. If you are wondering about the number of wines listed for this estate, although I visited the winery
in Greece in the Spring of 2009 and had some of these as parts of extended verticals, they were resubmitted in bottle
in the USA, along with other bottles. Pricing aside, this is an interesting group of wines, with some pluses and
minuses. Some observations: First, most of the reds are a bit rustic and show some strong barnyard notes, more
apparent in the bottles I saw in the USA than in Greece. The gamey nuances may turn some people off, but try some
with venison and see if it changes your mind. I'm fairly tolerant on those issues, and in particular, I'd much rather
have some life, energy and rusticity, than fat and flabby wines that are sweet and pure but relatively simple and
unstructured. Your mileage may differ. I'd note, however, that given the good structure and tannic backbones in the
most of the reds, they hold very well and respond well to reasonable aeration, to the point where I thought they
generally showed better in the USA, because I had more time to spend with them, than in the extended verticals I had
at the winery. Second, the wines at the lower levels are generally nice values. The reds tend to be a bit lean, but well
structured. The whites are quite well priced as a group. From bottlings like the simple Estate white to the Veriki and
the Chardonnays, you get bang for the buck here. With the reds, there is more variability. At the upper level, the
price begins to climb and you may sometimes wonder what the extra money is for, granting that the upper level
wines tend to be differently styled. Usually the more expensive wines are single vineyard wines and show more oak.
Their somewhat different styles may be preferred by some. The Kapnias and Vacchius Vinum, for instance, will
certainly show r
eRobertParker.com © (WA), Mark Squires 31 Dec 2009 90/100
114
White Wines Israel
Galilee (Galil)
D
Yarden | Sauvignon Blanc Galil
2011
UWS: 91/100
IWine Review © (IWR) 05 May 2012 91/100
115
White Wines Italy
Abruzzo (Abruzzi)
Y
Cantine Talamonti | Trebbiano d'Abruzzo Aternum
2007
UWS: 90/100
Gambero Rosso © (GR)
Ca
Fattoria Fattoria Bruno Nicodemi | Trebbiano d'Abruzzo Notari
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2005
UWS: 90/100
Fa
Marramiero | Trebbiano d'Abruzzo Dama
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2004
UWS: 90/100
M
Masciarelli | Trebbiano d'Abruzzo
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2008
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
116
White Wines Italy
Campania
M
Feudi Di San Gregorio | Indicazione Geografica Tipica (Campania) Albente
2007
UWS: 90/100
Fe
Feudi Di San Gregorio | Indicazione Geografica Tipica (Campania) Albente
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2010
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
Fe
Macchialupa | Fiano di Avellino
07 Sep 2011
3/5
2010
UWS: 90/100
M
Petilia | Fiano di Avellino
2007
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
The 2007 Fiano di Avellino is stunningly beautiful. A wine of uncommon elegance and distinction, it reveals
awesome richness in its ripe fruit, along with subtle notes of smoke and mint that add further complexity. This
remarkable wine from Campania is not to be missed. Anticipated maturity: 20082011. This small, familyrun
property in Irpinia is an excellent source for the unique wines of Campania.
Pe
Petilia | Fiano di Avellino
2008
UWS: 90/100
Pe
Terredora di Paolo | Fiano di Avellino Terre di Dora
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2010
UWS: 90/100
The 2010 Fiano di Avellino Terre di Dora is the richest and roundest of these 2010 whites, a vintage in which the
wines are decidedly on the mineral side. Juicy apricots and peaches dominate the flavor profile, while some of the
more exotic notes that are typical of Fiano take a little time in the glass to develop. This is a rich, textured Fiano
with gorgeous density. While delicious today, I would be tempted to cellar a few bottles to see what develops.
eRobertParker.com © (WA), Antonio Galloni
Te
30 Jun 2011
Vadiaperti | Fiano di Avellino
90/100
2006
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
117
White Wines Italy
UWS: 90/100
V
Vadiaperti | Fiano di Avellino
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2008
UWS: 90/100
V
Vadiaperti | Greco di Tufo
2006
UWS: 90/100
V
Villa Raiano | Falanghina Beneventano
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2010
UWS: 90/100
Vi
Villa Raiano | Fiano di Avellino
2005
UWS: 90/100
Fantastic nose of minerals, apple tart and honey follow through to a fullbodied palate, with bright and lively acidity
and a long, long finish. Drink now. 1,830 cases made. JS
Wine Spectator © (WS), James Suckling
Vi
30 Sep 2006
Villa Raiano | Fiano di Avellino La Ripa Alta
90/100
2003
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
(the estate's top fiano bottling) Medium strawyellow with golden accents. Rich, minerally aromas and flavors of
creamy pineapple, smoky yellow peach and sweet almond. Fresh and creamy on the palate, with good ripe fruit and
a long, nuanced finish.
International Wine Cellar © (IWC), Ian D'Agata
01 Jul 2005
90/100
118
White Wines Italy
Vi
Azienda Agricola la Tunella | Chardonnay Colli Orientali del Friuli
2007
UWS: 90/100
A
Azienda Agricola la Tunella | Colli Orientali del Friuli Biancosesto
2010
UWS: 90/100
This fresh and tangy white delivers lively tangerine and mandarin orange flavors that mix with notes of apricot,
almond, verbena and stone. A refreshing sipper, with a lingering floral finish. Friulano and Ribolla Gialla. Drink
now through 2015. AN
Wine Spectator © (WS), Alison Napjus
30 Jun 2012
89/100
A white with full body, sliced pear and apple and a spicy undertone. Clean, crisp acidity. Drink now.
James Suckling © (JS) 22 Dec 2011 91/100
A
Azienda Agricola la Tunella | Pinot Grigio Colli Orientali del Friuli
2003
UWS: 90/100
A
Azienda Agricola Paolo Rodaro | Colli Orientali del Friuli Tocai (Friulano)
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2008
UWS: 90/100
A
Azienda Agricola Roberto Scubla | Colli Orientali del Friuli Tocai (Friulano)
2004
UWS: 90/100
A
Di Lenardo | Pinot Grigio Grave del Friuli
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2008
UWS: 90/100
Di
la Roncaia | Colli Orientali del Friuli Eclisse
2002
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
Stony scents of talc and mouthwatering acidity create an austere impression. That austerity masks the pear and
acorn flavors of sauvignon blended with picolit, a fruit character that comes up to balance the pointed limeleaf
tartness. Serve with prosciutto di San Daniele wrapped around pear or melon.
Wine and Spirit Mag © (WSM) 01 Aug 2005 90/100
One of the most fragrant, subtle Sauvignons you'll encounter. The nose spreads out like a garden in spring, with
honeysuckle supported by chalky minerality.Published
The palate
delivers lemon chiffon along with light tropical fruit, while
by 90pluswines.com
119
the finish is creamy, long and flawless. Could have scored even higher, but one reviewer she said it lacked varietal
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
White Wines Italy
Stony scents of talc and mouthwatering acidity create an austere impression. That austerity masks the pear and
acorn flavors of sauvignon blended with picolit, a fruit character that comes up to balance the pointed limeleaf
tartness. Serve with prosciutto di San Daniele wrapped around pear or melon.
One of the most fragrant, subtle Sauvignons you'll encounter. The nose spreads out like a garden in spring, with
honeysuckle supported by chalky minerality. The palate delivers lemon chiffon along with light tropical fruit, while
the finish is creamy, long and flawless. Could have scored even higher, but one reviewer she said it lacked varietal
character (could be the Picolit) and fell off on the back end. Imported by Domaine Select Wine Estates.
la
01 Jul 2005
90/100
2004
UWS: 92/100
Marco Fantinel's family makes some of the best prosciutto in San Daniele, as well as this delicious blend of
sauvignon and picolit to drink with it. It has the pungent kiwi flavors of sauvignon and the nuttier kumquat and floral
richness of picolit. The depth of flavor is impressive, as is the clean finish. If you can't get Fantinel's San Daniele, try
this with braised pork.
la
2007
UWS: 90/100
Blended from sauvignon and picolit, this spicy and earthy wine has flavors of green mango and nectarine marked by
a salty, almost chalky texture. It becomes silky with air, the fruit defined by brisk acidity. Match its brightness with
an oily fish, like grilled orata.
There's a soft, creamy quality to this Sauvignon (with 10% barrelfermented Picolit added to the blend) that recalls
aromas of peach, passion fruit and papaya. There's excellent depth and density here and the wine is generous and
chewy in the mouth. Pair this citrusy white with shellfish or pasta con vongole.
la
Ronchi di Manzano | Colli Orientali del Friuli Tocai (Friulano)
1999
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
Made by 30ish Roberta Borghese high above Manzano, which also happens to be the chair manufacturing capital
of Italy, this is a perfect example of how good Tocai can be. The aromas are honey and grapefruitorange. After an
intro of crisp acidity, the same flavors appear and persist on the medium body. Match this one with a good seafood
risotto.
Readers will enjoy the outstanding 1999 Tocai Friuliano, which was barrelfermented and aged on its lees. It
exhibits explosive, honeyed fruit, crisp acidity, medium body, and an intense, long finish with plenty of pear, orange,
and buttery fruit. It should drink well for several years.
R
2001
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
The 2001 Tocai Friulano is a brilliant example. Produced from low yields (by the standards of this varietal) of 31.5
hectoliters per hectare, it was barrelfermented and aged on its lees, then kept in large French foudres before
bottling. A fabulous bouquet of honeysuckle and tropical fruits is followed by a long, mediumbodied, exceptionally
welldelineated and pure midpalate and finish. It is a classic, compelling example of a topnotch, dry white from
Friuli. Drink it over the next 1218 months. This is a very serious effort from a winery that is quickly emerging as
one of the finest in Friuli.
120
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
White Wines Italy
2/3
The 2001 Tocai Friulano is a brilliant example. Produced from low yields (by the standards of this varietal) of 31.5
hectoliters per hectare, it was barrelfermented and aged on its lees, then kept in large French foudres before
bottling. A fabulous bouquet of honeysuckle and tropical fruits is followed by a long, mediumbodied, exceptionally
welldelineated and pure midpalate and finish. It is a classic, compelling example of a topnotch, dry white from
Friuli. Drink it over the next 1218 months. This is a very serious effort from a winery that is quickly emerging as
one of the finest in Friuli.
R
2004
UWS: 90/100
R
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2006
UWS: 90/100
R
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2008
UWS: 90/100
R
Roncus | Collio Tocai Friulano
2007
UWS: 90/100
R
Tenuta Villanova | Malvasia Isonzo del Friuli Saccoline
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2010
UWS: 90/100
Te
Toros | Collio Sauvignon
2006
UWS: 90/100
() Bright strawyellow. Aromas of lime, minerals and quince are accented by rosemary and cut grass. Juicy, intense
passion fruit and grapefruit flavors are complicated by a touch of smoky iodine. Very long and pleasantly sharp on
the finish.
Toros 2006 Sauvignon is a wine that overflows with varietal character. Classic suggestions of tomato leaf, mint,
sage, minerals and citrus make an appearance in this vibrant, intensely flavored Sauvignon that exudes persistence
and style, closing with a long, creamy finish. Anticipated maturity: 20072010. Various American importers,
including: Tom Edward Wine, New York, NY; tel. (212) 2331504; Soletta Vini, Santa Ana, CA; tel. (714) 5567896;
Siema Wines LLC, Springfield, VA; tel. (703) 4551200
To
Toros | Collio Sauvignon
31 Oct 2007
92/100
2009
UWS: 90/100
121
White Wines Italy
UWS: 90/100
To
Torre Rosazza | Colli Orientali del Friuli Tocai (Friulano)
2010
UWS: 90/100
Mediumdeep straw. Intense aromas of almond, ripe citrus and tangerine lifted by fresh herbs. Dense, pure and
complex, with flavors similar to the aromas and very good grip. Finishes creamy and long. (Bedford International,
Larchmont, NY)
01 Sep 2011
90/100
Lively flavors of fig, cantaloupe, ripe pear and peach are backed by zippy acidity in this attractive white. This is
fresh and juicy, showing a fine balance between its ripe, plump side and its lipsmacking character. Delicious. Drink
now through 2014. AN
Wine Spectator © (WS), Alison Napjus 31 Aug 2011 90/100
122
White Wines Italy
Marche (Marches)
To
Azienda Santa Barbara | Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Le Vaglie
2010
UWS: 90/100
A
Azienda Santa Barbara | Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Stefano
Antonucci Riserva
2007
UWS: 90/100
A
Azienda Sparapani Frati Bianchi | Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Il Priore
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2008
UWS: 90/100
A
Azienda Sparapani Frati Bianchi | Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Il Priore
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2009
UWS: 90/100
A
Azienda Velenosi | Falerio dei Colli Ascolani Vigna Solaria
2000
UWS: 90/100
A
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2005
UWS: 90/100
A
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2006
UWS: 90/100
A
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2007
UWS: 90/100
(a blend of 50% trebbiano, 30% passerina and 20% pecorino) Deep strawyellow. Subtle aromas of powdered stone,
lime and mint are dominated by an intense almond note. A fresh and juicy wine with early appeal, boasting plenty of
wonderfully pure, plump flavors of ripe pineapple and yellow peach complicated by fresh herbs. Much more
interesting than the verdicchio, this unexpectedly fullbodied wine finishes with a delicate salty tang. Made without
any oak
International
Wine Cellar
Published
by 90pluswines.com
© (IWC), Ian D'Agata
01 Jul 2009
90/100
123
UWS: 90/100
White Wines Italy
(a blend of 50% trebbiano, 30% passerina and 20% pecorino) Deep strawyellow. Subtle aromas of powdered stone,
lime and mint are dominated by an intense almond note. A fresh and juicy wine with early appeal, boasting plenty of
wonderfully pure, plump flavors of ripe pineapple and yellow peach complicated by fresh herbs. Much more
interesting than the verdicchio, this unexpectedly fullbodied wine finishes with a delicate salty tang. Made without
any oak
A
01 Jul 2009
Azienda Vinicola Umani Ronchi | Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Vecchie
Vigne
90/100
2005
UWS: 90/100
Subtle apple and light orange character on the nose leads to a full body, with loads of fruit and an oily yet fresh
finish. This is powerful, with lots of character from these old vines. Drink now. 1,250 cases made. JS
A
30 Apr 2008
Belisario | Verdicchio di Matelica
90/100
2003
UWS: 90/100
Be
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2007
UWS: 90/100
Be
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2008
UWS: 90/100
Be
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2009
UWS: 90/100
Be
Belisario | Verdicchio di Matelica Cambrugiano Riserva
1998
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
Impressive. Wonderful clarity in this white, with floral, stone and melon character. Medium to fullbodied, with
plenty of acidity and a long aftertaste of mineral, flint and melon. Delicious. Drink now. 1,000 cases made. JS
Be
Belisario | Verdicchio di Matelica Terre di Valbona
29 Feb 2000
89/100
2009
UWS: 90/100
Be
Belisario | Verdicchio di Matelica Vigneto del Cerro
2009
124
White Wines Italy
UWS: 90/100
Be
Bisci | Verdicchio di Matelica
2009
UWS: 90/100
Bi
Fattoria Laila | Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
2005
UWS: 90/100
Fa
Garofoli | Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Podium
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2004
UWS: 94/100
Left bank: Montecarotto. Fermented in stainless steel. Sunflower yellow. Incredible, intense nose of dried fruit and
candied orange, citrus fruit and honey. Honeyed, sweet fruit on the palate with just enough acidity to keep it
interesting. Dense mouthfeel and bitteralmond finish. This needs food. Has hardly matured in the bottle. (WS)
G
06 Oct 2012
Garofoli | Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Podium
17/20
2007
UWS: 90/100
Amazing aromas of lemon and fresh rosemary lead to a full body, with good acidity and an intensity of mineral and
flint character on the finish. Drink now. 5,000 cases made. JS
G
31 Oct 2010
Sartarelli | Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
90/100
2000
UWS: 90/100
Sa
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2001
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
The 2001 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico exhibits surprising texture along with notes of white fruits,
minerals, and flowers, medium body, and admirable freshness as well as purity. This is a fabulous value.
Sa
2005
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
125
White Wines Italy
UWS: 90/100
Sa
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2009
UWS: 90/100
Picked two weeks later than the Classico grapes. Scented and very firm lots of green leaf flavour and a very dense
build. Definitely superior but a bit expensive for what it is.
07 Sep 2011
16,5/20
The 2009 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico offers up dried flowers, peaches and herbs in a midweight,
accessible style. This is a very polished and wellbalanced Verdicchio for the money, and is a great value.
Sa
30 Jun 2010
Sartarelli | Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Tralivio
88/100
1998
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
Apple, licorice and mint aromas. Fat and spicy in the mouth; fruit and spice flavors seem slightly sweet. Good dusty
texture and length on the back end.
Sa
01 Jan 2000
89/100
2001
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
The single vineyard, steely, crisp, delicious 2001 Verdicchio Tralivio offers up aromas of white currants intermixed
with hints of honey and minerals. The dry, zesty finish possesses surprising texture and length.
Sa
2002
UWS: 90/100
Sa
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2003
UWS: 90/100
Sa
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2004
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
A bold, chewy white, this is filled with luscious pineapple and kumquat flavor even as it's completely dry. The smoky
hazelnut tones tighten around the fruit but don't diminish its fragrance. Bottle age will only add to its complexity.
126
White Wines Italy
Sa
2006
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
Strawyellow gold. Assertively perfumed, mineraldriven nose offers pear, almond and musky yellow plum with a
smoky undertone of iodine and lime. Balanced and fresh in the mouth, with flavors similar to the aromas. Finishes
minerally and long. It's hard to find a better white wine at this price.
Sa
01 Jul 2009
91/100
2007
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
Honeyed, floral aromatics emerge from the 2007 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Tralivio. This
gorgeous, lush wine offers superb richness and depth in its succulent peaches, minerals and sweet spices, showing
tons of persistence and a long, resonating finish. It, too, is a terrific value for the money. Anticipated maturity: 2009
2014. These whites from Sartarelli were among the most thrilling, complete wines I tasted this year. The two entry
level Verdicchios also happen to be two of the best values in Italy for whites that offer noble class and pedigree at
what are very fair prices.
Sa
30 Apr 2009
90/100
2008
UWS: 91/100
The 2008 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Tralivio is made from lower yields than the regular
bottling, which comes through in the wine's depth and richness. Succulent ripe peaches, mint, minerals and flowers
emerge from this voluptuous, sexy Verdicchio. Pretty candied notes are layered into a vein of minerality that gives
the Tralivio its gorgeous balance, impeccable finish and sense of proportion. This is a terrific effort from Sartarelli.
Sa
30 Jun 2010
91/100
2010
UWS: 92/100
Sartarelli's 2010 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Tralivio opens with a blast of juicy, yellow stone
fruits and flowers, but then the minerality kicks in on the midpalate and finish. Unctuous, textured and beautiful,
this 2010 impresses for its exceptional balance and finesse. I loved it. Mint, flowers and citrus reappear on the
intense, salinedrenched finish. Tasting the 2010 made me crave a good plate (or two!) of crudo.
Sa
Tavignano | Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Misco
28 Feb 2013
92/100
2009
UWS: 90/100
Ta
Terre Cortesi Moncaro | Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore
Verde Cà Ruptae
2006
127
White Wines Italy
UWS: 90/100
Te
Verde Cà Ruptae
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2007
UWS: 90/100
Te
Verde Cà Ruptae
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2008
UWS: 90/100
Te
Verde Cà Ruptae
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2009
UWS: 90/100
Te
Verde Cà Ruptae
2010
UWS: 90/100
128
White Wines Italy
Other
Te
Vignalta | Chardonnay Italia
2008
UWS: 90/100
129
White Wines Italy
Piemonte (Piedmont)
Vi
Broglia | Gavi La Meirana
2007
UWS: 90/100
W_Gavi Piedmont. #1 (tie); COLORgolden; NOSEenormous tropical (Guava, kiwi and some passion fruit); also
a hint of turnip; very fresh; a little like Frosted Flakes; PALATEnice; a metallic industrial metallic component on
the backend of the fruit that I really like; I really, really like this wines razor's edge acidity; good apple fruits as
well; GV90
Br
Bruna Grimaldi | Chardonnay Langhe Valscura
2009
UWS: 90/100
Br
Elio Perrone | Piedmont Moscato Clarte
2008
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
The 2008 Moscato d'Asti Clarte is intensely mineral in this vintage, with a persistent vein of minerality that frames a
core of silky ripe fruit. While not the most exuberant vintage of Clarte, the wine offers tons of elegance and balance.
Anticipated maturity: 20092010. Stefano Perrone remains a referencepoint producer for Moscato.
El
La Giustiniana | Gavi Lugarara
2008
UWS: 90/100
La
La Zerba | Gavi
2009
UWS: 90/100
La
Moccagatta | Chardonnay Langhe
2009
UWS: 90/100
M
Villa Sparina | Gavi
2005
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
130
White Wines Italy
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
131
White Wines Italy
Puglia (Apulia)
Vi
Azienda Tormaresca | Puglia White
2003
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
132
White Wines Italy
Sardegna (Sardinia)
A
Cantina Sociale di Santadi | Nuragus di Cagliari Pedraia
2007
UWS: 90/100
There's ripe apple on the nose, with hints of cedar, mineral and honey. Mediumbodied. Turns spicy and stylish on
the finish. A tasty white. Like a top Pinot Gris. Drink now. 4,100 cases made. JS
28 Apr 2011
Ca
90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2009
UWS: 90/100
Ca
2010
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
Ca
Cantine Argiolas | Vermentino di Sardegna Is Argiolas
15 Jul 2012
4/5
2011
UWS: 90/100
A white with sliced green apple and lemon character. Medium to full body, with bright acidity and a pear aftertaste.
Drink now.
James Suckling © (JS) 20 Nov 2012 90/100
Ca
Sella e Mosca | Torbato Alghero Terre Bianche
2008
UWS: 90/100
The 2008 Torbato Cuvee 161 Terre Bianche flows from the glass with rich, sensual layers of fruit. Ripe, juicy
apricots, mint, smoke, French oak, minerals and earthiness are some of the notes that emerge from this relatively full
bodied, intense white. All of the elements are beautifully balanced as the wine builds to a round, vivid finish.
Se
30 Jun 2010
Sella e Mosca | Vermentino di Gallura Superiore Monteoro
90/100
2001
UWS: 90/100
Se
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2004
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
133
White Wines Italy
UWS: 90/100
Se
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2007
UWS: 90/100
Se
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2008
UWS: 91/100
You'll get granite notes here and crushed mineral backed by creamy apricot and peach. The wine rests on the lees to
achieve better structure and richness: pair it with shellfish or poultry.
Se
01 Sep 2009
87/100
2010
UWS: 95/100
134
White Wines Italy
Sicilia (Sicily)
Se
Azienda Vinicola Donnafugata | Contessa Entellina Vigna di Gabri
2010
UWS: 90/100
66% Ansonica (Inzolia); the remainder of the blend is Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and a little bit of Catarratto.
From hilly vineyards 200600 m altitude on clayloam soil. Yield six tons/ha. 90% fermented in stainless steel,
controlled temperature. 10% aged in seconduse French oak barrels. All wine is kept on lees. TA 6.1 g/l, pH 3.25.
60,000 bottles. Round and broad on nose then tight acidity. Too tart?
A
12 Sep 2011
Casa Vinicola Firriato | Catarratto-Chardonnay Sicilia Santagostino Baglio
Soria
15,5/20
2008
UWS: 90/100
Very attractive red with plum and spices, with hints of wood. Full and velvety with plenty going on. A rich and juicy
wine. Drink it!
08 Jul 2011
90/100
Deep ruby. Superripe black cherry, cassis and black pepper on the nose. Sweet, supple and silky, with a liqueurlike
ripeness to the flavors of strawberry, black cherry, smoke and sweet spices. Finishes with very smooth tannins and a
lingering salty nuance.
Ca
Casa Vinicola Firriato | Grillo Sicilia Altavilla della Corte
2000
UWS: 90/100
Ca
Casa Vinicola Firriato | Grillo Sicilia Altavilla della Corte
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2008
UWS: 90/100
Ca
Cusumano | Insolia Sicilia Cubìa
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2011
UWS: 90/100
A wine with lovely tension and freshness with sliced lemons and hints of peaches. Full yet agile and bright.
Minerally. Insolia from a single vineyard fermented in wood and aged six months and then six months in bottle
before release. Drink now.
C
Gulfi | Sicilia Valcanzjria
2011
UWS: 90/100
A blend of Chardonnay (planted on the recommendation of the French nurseryman PierreMarie Guillaume, with
whom they work very closely for their new planting material), Carricante and Albanella, planted in one vineyard
area (though not interplanted). Watery white. Fresh lemon and lime fruit and mildly stony rather like limey
Published
by 90pluswines.com
Chablis on the nose. Tight and dry, not especially
concentrated
but grows in the glass and was relatively versatile135
at
the table even though it struggled to keep up with the meaty white fish and chick peas. (JH)
White Wines Italy
UWS: 90/100
A blend of Chardonnay (planted on the recommendation of the French nurseryman PierreMarie Guillaume, with
whom they work very closely for their new planting material), Carricante and Albanella, planted in one vineyard
area (though not interplanted). Watery white. Fresh lemon and lime fruit and mildly stony rather like limey
Chablis on the nose. Tight and dry, not especially concentrated but grows in the glass and was relatively versatile at
the table even though it struggled to keep up with the meaty white fish and chick peas. (JH)
G
Mirabile | Inzolia Sicilia
2007
UWS: 90/100
This vintage of Mirabile's pretty Nero d'Avola (with the attractive label featuring a Sicilian succulent plant) offers
impressive intensity and purity of aromas. The wine is smooth and bright with fresh berry notes, almond and smoky
after tones.
M
Planeta | Indicazione Geografica Tipica (Sicilia) La Segreta Bianco
05 Jan 2010
90/100
2011
UWS: 90/100
This very minerally and citrusy with lemon and lime. Full and delicious. Bright acidity. Delicious. A finish of
grapefruit. Screw caps. 50% Grecanica, 30% Chardonnay, 10% Fiano, and 10% Viognier.
136
White Wines Italy
Toscana (Tuscany)
Pl
Badia a Coltibuono | Toscana White Le Trappoline
2006
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
Tasty young white, with citrus fruit and a light mineral character. Clean and tight. Aperitif style. Drink now. 775
cases made.
28 Apr 2011
83/100
Selected grapes are fermented separately in stainless steel tanks. The wine is left in contact with the lees for up to
four months. Chardonnay 60%, Sauvignon Blanc 40%. Wine's name is what they called the nuns in Tuscany:
little traps! Sunny brilliant yellow. Gorgeous, expressive nose! Acacia honey and flowers...with herbal undertones.
What a nice surprise! Very fresh fruit, lively. Mouthfilling with pleasant lengthy finish. Was delicious with an
appetizer of marinated goat cheese with grilled red peppers, sun dried tomatoes and tapenade... but could also be
wonderful on its own. (VD)
13 Oct 2008
18+/20
137
White Wines Italy
Ba
(San Michele Appiano) Saint Michael Eppan | Alto Adige - Terlano Pinot
Grigio
2009
UWS: 90/100
Dried peach and apple aromas follow through to a follow to a full body with lots of cream and mangos. I always
love this Pinot Grigio. Drink now.
The 2009 Pinot Grigio is absolutely delicious in this vintage, not to mention a huge overachiever. Almonds, white
peaches, jasmine and smoke flow through gracefully to the round, textured finish.
(S
28 Feb 2011
(San Michele Appiano) Saint Michael Eppan | Alto Adige Pinot Grigio
Anger
89/100
2001
UWS: 90/100
(S
(San Michele Appiano) Saint Michael Eppan | Alto Adige Sauvignon Lahn
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2001
UWS: 90/100
(S
(San Michele Appiano) Saint Michael Eppan | Chardonnay Alto Adige
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2001
UWS: 90/100
(S
(San Michele Appiano) Saint Michael Eppan | Riesling Alto Adige Montiggl
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2001
UWS: 90/100
(S
(San Michele Appiano) Saint Michael Eppan | Riesling Alto Adige Montiggl
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2003
UWS: 90/100
(S
Abbazia di Novacella | Alto Adige Kerner
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2007
UWS: 90/100
Complex and lasting aromas of mountain flowers and wild herbs balance the tangy cranberry flavor in this vibrant
mountain white. Try it with grilled trout.
138
The Abbazia's 2007 Kerner is one of the more complete wines in the lineup. It beautifully marries the detail that
many of these wines have with a ripe, generous expression of fruit. Citrus peel, melon, spices and mint are just some
White Wines Italy
UWS: 90/100
Complex and lasting aromas of mountain flowers and wild herbs balance the tangy cranberry flavor in this vibrant
mountain white. Try it with grilled trout.
The Abbazia's 2007 Kerner is one of the more complete wines in the lineup. It beautifully marries the detail that
many of these wines have with a ripe, generous expression of fruit. Citrus peel, melon, spices and mint are just some
of the notes that can be found in this beautiful, absolutely delicious white. Anticipated maturity: 20082009.
Abbazia di Novacella is located in one of the most breathtakingly beautiful corners of Italy. The estate makes a wide
range of wines across different levels of quality, as is the custom in these parts. The singlevariety wines (in the
Alsatianstyle bottles) are aged in steel and made in a fresh style. The highend Praepositus wines offer greater
complexity and structure. I am happy to report that the Praepositus line, the reds in particular, are being made in a
far more elegant style than has been the case in the recent past.
A
Abbazia di Novacella | Alto Adige Kerner
31 Oct 2008
89/100
2009
UWS: 90/100
The 2009 Kerner is another fabulous wine from Abbazia di Novacella. The taut, mineral laced Kerner caresses the
palate with expressive aromatics, chiseled fruit and fabulous overall balance.
A
Abbazia di Novacella | Alto Adige Sylvaner
2009
UWS: 90/100
The 2009 Sylvaner is a standout in this vintage. It shows wonderful detail in freshly cut flowers, mint, peaches and
pears. There is a marvelous detail and clarity in the glass. The Sylvaner is more restrained than the Kerner and
perhaps a touch less showy but not one bit less intriguing. Anticipated maturity: 20102013. These entrylevel,
unoaked whites from Abbazia di Novacella in the Valle Isarco deliver plenty of bang for the buck.
A
Abbazia di Novacella | Grüner Veltliner Alto Adige Valle Isarco
2008
UWS: 90/100
A solid, grapey white, with hints of citrus peel and mineral. Full, with good acidity and a lingering finish. There's
intense fruit in this. Compare with an Austrian Veltliner. Drink now. 1,000 cases made. JS
Wine Spectator © (WS), James Suckling 31 Aug 2009 90/100
The 2008 Veltliner is beautifully delineated in its suggestions of passion fruit, melon, sweet spices and minerals, all
of which come together with remarkable grace. The wine reveals superb clarity and delineation at this level.
Anticipated maturity: 20092011. Abbazia di Novacella is a reliable source for fairlypriced wines from Alto Adige
that express plenty of varietal and regional character. These entrylevel wines are all aged in stainless steel.
A
Abbazia di Novacella | Sauvignon Alto Adige
2007
UWS: 90/100
Intense aromas of gooseberry and sliced peach follow through to a full body, with powerful flavors and a long finish.
Drink now. 1,800 cases made. JS
A
Cantina Girlan | Alto Adige Sauvignon Indra
2007
139
White Wines Italy
UWS: 90/100
There's an excellent finish to this bright, fruity Sauvignon, which is medium to fullbodied and long, with lots of
green apple and lemon undertones. Drink now. 4,000 cases made. JS
Ca
2008
UWS: 92/100
Very appley, with lots of pink grapefruit and mineral character as well on the nose and palate. Full and very
flavorful. Drink now. 4,200 cases made. JS
Ca
15 Jun 2010
89/100
2009
UWS: 90/100
Ca
Cantina Tramin | Gewurztraminer Alto Adige
2006
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
Peach, apricot and mineral on the nose follow through to a fullbodied palate, with crisp acidity and a long, subtle,
very spicy finish. Balanced and rich. Drink now. 3,000 cases made. JS
Wine Spectator © (WS), James Suckling 15 Nov 2007 89/100
Ca
J. Hofstatter | Pinot Grigio Alto Adige De Vite
2006
UWS: 90/100
J.
J. Hofstatter | Pinot Grigio Alto Adige De Vite
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2007
UWS: 90/100
J.
Schlosskellerei Turnhof Tiefenbrunner | Vigneti delle Dolomiti Bianco
Chardonnay Castel Turmhof
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2002
UWS: 90/100
Sc
Viticoltori Caldaro | Alto Adige - Terlano Pinot Grigio
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2010
UWS: 90/100
It's hard to imagine Pinot Grigio better than this. Fresh, creamy and packed tight with coolclimate aromas of white
flower, citrus and fresh peach, the wine pairs beautifully with spicy Thai or Vietnamese dishes.
140
White Wines Italy
UWS: 90/100
It's hard to imagine Pinot Grigio better than this. Fresh, creamy and packed tight with coolclimate aromas of white
flower, citrus and fresh peach, the wine pairs beautifully with spicy Thai or Vietnamese dishes.
141
White Wines Italy
Umbria
Vi
Agricola Goretti | Umbria White Il Moggio
2008
UWS: 90/100
A
Agricola Goretti | Umbria White Il Moggio
2009
UWS: 90/100
A
Azienda Agricola il Palazzone | Grechetto Umbria
2009
UWS: 90/100
A
Azienda Agricola il Palazzone | Orvieto Classico Superiore Terre Vineate
2009
UWS: 90/100
Palazzone's 2009 Orvieto Classico Superiore Terre Vineate (Procanico, Grechetto) is flatout delicious, not to
mention a steal for the money. Everything is in perfect balance as ripe, juicy peaches, flowers and minerals emerge
from this midweight white. In 2009 the Terre Vineate seems to have a touch more plumpness than normal, which
works beautifully here.
A
30 Jun 2010
Barbi | Orvieto Classico Archè
89/100
2009
UWS: 90/100
Ba
Bigi | Orvieto Classico Torricella
2010
UWS: 90/100
Bi
Decugnano Dei Barbi | Orvieto Classico IL
1997
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
A seriously rich Orvieto, with plenty of mineral and melon character. Mediumbodied, with good acidity and a solid
core of fruit that builds on the palate. Long, fruity aftertaste. Drink now. 750 cases made. JS
15 Jun 1999
89/100
142
White Wines Italy
D
Decugnano Dei Barbi | Orvieto Classico IL
1999
UWS: 90/100
D
Falesco | Verdicchio-Vermentino Umbria Vitiano
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2002
UWS: 90/100
Another vintage of this wine from Ricardo Coterella proves to be a success. Here we have a deeply coloured liquid,
a redblack hue. The nose is open and exuberant, loaded with blackberry and blackcurrant fruit. There is a tarry
richness to it, with notes of cloves alongside, and some polished oak too. The texture on the palate is full and
voluptuous, nudging creamy in fact. It has balance though, with some ripe tannins and sufficient, although slightly
low, acidity. Like the nose it is packed with intense, tarry fruit, with an explosive finish. Background notes of oak.
Lovely now, but should be fine for drinking over the next year or two.
Decanter © (DC)
Fa
La Carraia | Orvieto Classico Poggio Calvelli
28 Apr 2011
3/5
2000
UWS: 90/100
La
La Carraia | Orvieto Classico Poggio Calvelli
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2006
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
143
White Wines Italy
Valle d'Aosta
La
Les Cretes (Constantino Charrere) | Valle d'Aosta Petite Arvine Vigne
Champorette
2001
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
144
White Wines Italy
Veneto
Le
Azienda Agricola Leonildo Pieropan | Soave Classico Superiore
2000
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC) 21 Mar 2012 4/5
28 Apr 2011
2/3
Fantastic white. Lovely aromas of fresh green apples, grapefruit and peaches. Fullbodied and very rich, with
intense fruit and a long, long finish. A super Soave. Drink now through 2005. 20,000 cases made. JS
28 Feb 2002
91/100
This light, refreshing 2000 Soave Classico reveals notions of citrus, grapefruit, and almond extract presented in a
clean style. Drink it over the next year to take advantage of its freshness.
A
Azienda Agricola Leonildo Pieropan | Soave Classico Superiore
2009
UWS: 90/100
** Pieropan is a benchmark for Soave. The real deal. A lemon and slice apple character to this mineraly white with
hints of white pepper. Medium body, with lots of subtle fruit and tangy acidity. SAQ Website/Find the wine
A
21 Feb 2011
Azienda Ca'Rugate | Soave Classico San Michele
90/100
2010
UWS: 90/100
A
Bertani | Soave Classico Superiore
2001
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
28 Sep 2011
4/5
A ripe Soave, with peach, straw and cream character. Mediumbodied, with plenty of good fruit and a clean finish.
Wine Spectator © (WS), James Suckling 31 May 2003 85/100
Be
Castello di Farnetella | Sauvignon
1995
UWS: 90/100
Ca
Cavalchina | Bianco di Custoza
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2008
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
145
White Wines Italy
Ca
Coffele | Soave Classico Superiore
2009
UWS: 90/100
C
Coffele | Soave Classico Superiore
2011
UWS: 90/100
C
31 Jul 2013
Monte Tondo | Soave Classico Casette Foscarin
90/100
2011
UWS: 90/100
The 2011 Soave Classico Casette Foscarin shows slightly oxidized aromas of peach and melon that make for a more
elaborate style. Aromas of crushed granite, exotic fruit and honeydew melon are major components of the bouquet.
It would pair with tuna tartar or pesce crudo. Drink 20132016. Monte Tondo presents classic white wines from
Soave that drink perfectly with seaside cuisine or spicy dishes from Southeast Asia.
M
31 Oct 2013
Suavia | Soave Classico Superiore
90/100
2008
UWS: 90/100
Starts with a delicate floral and mineral nose, which follows through to a medium to fullbodied palate, with an
exquisite, silky texture and a dense but subtle underlay of creamy mineral. Finely balanced, with peachy fruit and
creamy almond character lingering on the finish. Drink now. 6,000 cases made. JC
Wine Spectator © (WS), JC 31 Aug 2009 91/100
Su
Tenuta Roveglia | Lugana
2005
UWS: 90/100
Te
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2006
UWS: 90/100
Te
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2007
UWS: 90/100
Te
2008
146
White Wines Italy
UWS: 90/100
Te
Vignalta | Pinot Bianco Colli Euganei
2001
UWS: 90/100
Vi
Vignalta | Pinot Bianco Colli Euganei
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2007
UWS: 90/100
Vi
Vignalta | Sirio
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2000
UWS: 90/100
Vi
Vignalta | Sirio
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2001
UWS: 90/100
Vi
Vignalta | Sirio
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2003
UWS: 90/100
Vi
Vignalta | Sirio
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2004
UWS: 90/100
Vi
Vignalta | Sirio
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2006
UWS: 90/100
Vi
Vignalta | Sirio
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2007
UWS: 90/100
Vi
Zenato | Bianco di Custoza
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2008
147
White Wines Italy
UWS: 90/100
07 Oct 2009
16/20
148
North Island
Ze
Coopers Creek | Gisborne Chardonnay
2009
UWS: 90/100
Introvert nose. Sleek and fresh with a strong green streak. Well polished even if just a little lighter than some. Bit of
a Chablis?!
C
Palliser Estate | Sauvignon Blanc Martinborough
24 Jan 2012
16/20
2008
UWS: 90/100
Bright pale yellow. Captivating aromas of lemon, grapefruit, orange, caraway seed and pink peppercorn. Rich,
layered and fresh; broad, ripe and mouthfilling for sauvignon, with lovely concentration and chewiness to the
flavors of pineapple, grapefruit and tropical fruits. Finishes aromatic and strong, with sneaky tactile persistence and
none of the vegetal side of the variety.
01 Sep 2009
91/100
The 2008 Palliser Estate SB is an interesting blend of ripe fig and melon fruit with grassier notes that finish on
capsicum (bell pepper) notes. It's round and weighty enough to pair with some slightly richer dishes, like herbed
chicken, not just seafood.
01 Sep 2009
89/100
Bright, bracing and brimming with lime and parsley aromatics around a core of tart apple, lingering on the focused
finish. Drink now. 1,000 cases imported. HS
Wine Spectator © (WS), Harvey Steiman 31 Mar 2009 89/100
Pa
Te Awa Winery | Hawkes Bay Chardonnay
2007
UWS: 90/100
Showing plenty of toasty oak, Te Awa's 2007 Chardonnay is at the same time surprisingly mediumbodied, with
refined citrusy aromas and flavors at its core, cosseted by layers of vanilla and coconut. Try it with scallops or
lobster, and let the long, citrusy finish play off the buttery sweetness of the shellfish. Drink now2012.
Te
Te Kairanga | Chardonnay Martinborough Casarina Reserve
01 Jul 2010
90/100
2005
UWS: 90/100
Intense, with fine concentration to yellow pear, apricot and generous toasty oak flavors. Caramel notes, minerality
and lemony acidity linger on the finish. Drink now through 2010. 750 cases made. DS
Wine Spectator © (WS), DS
30 Apr 2007
89/100
More restrained on the nose than the regular Chardonnay, but with greater depth, richness and texture, the 2005
Casarina Reserve Chardonnay is a selection of older vines, mainly the Mendoza clone. Subtle popcorn and cereal
grain notes add elegance to the melon fruit, finishing with crisp acids that balance the wine's weight.
149
South Island
Te
Koura Bay Wines | Awatere Valley Sauvignon Blanc
2002
UWS: 90/100
Hyperripe aromas of herbal liqueur, spices, and candied citrus fruits burst from the glass of the 2002 Sauvignon
Blanc. This superb value is hugely expressive, expansive, juicy, and mediumbodied. Loads of pears, apples, red
currants, and gooseberries can be found in its powerful and lengthy personality. Drink it over the next 3 years.
eRobertParker.com © (WA), Pierre Rovani 31 Aug 2003 90/100
K
Koura Bay Wines | Awatere Valley Sauvignon Blanc
2004
UWS: 90/100
New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. NOSEhuge, grapefruit, wasabi, cat piss; TASTErefreshing, aromatic, solid mid
palate, long finish; WINNER; GV90
K
Mount Difficulty Wines | Otago Chardonnay
2007
UWS: 91/100
Fermented with wild yeast, high solids, 100% French oak barrique fermented 20% new. 50% MLF for this vintage.
Battonage. Enticing aromas of oatmeal, tropical fruits, butterscotch, pineapple pastry. The full bodied is well
balanced with a high backbone of acidity. Silky texture, concentrated flavours, long finish. Mt Difficulty Tasting,
Bannockburn, 1st August 2009 with marketing manager Michael Herrick.
eRobertParker.com © (WA), Lisa PerrottiBrown 30 Nov 2009 91/100
Only 15% new oak. Very serious build now much more so than earlier vintages you could decant this. Made
in very small quantities, to last. I'm told the 2005 is drinking well now... This is still quite chewy and I would wait for
it.
02 Jul 2009
16,5+/20
Tight in structure, with a tart, racy edge to the toasty pear and tobacco flavors, lingering on the expressive finish.
This has plenty to develop. Drink now through 2015. 250 cases imported. HS
M
Wairau River | Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough
90/100
30 Apr 2009
2009
UWS: 90/100
The folks at Wairau River have picked up their game, turning out a slightly austere, minerally 2009 that balances
those attributes with hints of nectarine, melon and fig. It's mediumbodied, with a long finish.
Bright and lively, delivering an effusive mouthful of pineapple, lime and apricot that remains refreshing and
balanced through the finish. Drink now. 20,000 cases made. HS
Wine Spectator © (WS), Harvey Steiman 31 Mar 2010 90/100
W
Wither Hills | Chardonnay Marlborough
2008
UWS: 91/100
Very positive and luscious with the merest hint of oak. Substantial but not horribly sweet or oaky. Manages to be
refreshing actually. Well done! (But not quite as outstanding as the 2007 in my blind lineup at Cloudy Bay winery
in Blenheim tasted earlier this year.)
150
02 Jul 2009
16,5/20
UWS: 91/100
Very positive and luscious with the merest hint of oak. Substantial but not horribly sweet or oaky. Manages to be
refreshing actually. Well done! (But not quite as outstanding as the 2007 in my blind lineup at Cloudy Bay winery
in Blenheim tasted earlier this year.)
02 Jul 2009
16,5/20
151
Dao
W
Quinta das Marias | Dao Encruzado
2010
UWS: 91/100
The 2010 ENCRUZADO opened projecting considerable richness, depth and ripeness for its type, if not quite the
zest and zing one might look for early on. Happily, it rounded nicely into balance, the acidity asserting itself and the
fruit less obvious. Some hours later it was singing, just completely graceful and charming, everything in place, a
controlled, sunny demeanor evident. It remained solid in depth, but it had become gentle and impeccably balanced,
with lingering flavor on the finish. Increasingly, it was simply a pleasure to drink, juicy and quite delicious, always a
bit laid back, but never disappearing. I should note that while I will not be surprised if these hold for a few years
longer than I typically indicate, I do think they will be better when fresher. Drink now2015.
eRobertParker.com © (WA), Mark Squires
30 Jun 2012
90/100
Very famous in Portugal, along with Roques. Mineral nose, touch of citrus, not very aromatic. Barrel fermented, all
new French oak. Much more intense on the palate, creamy oak then very high acidity, not fully integrated yet. Good
length and mineral and citrus returns on the finish. Very long but a bit too oaky at the moment. Maybe the oak is
overdone, hence the minus. (JH)
10 Jan 2012
17/20
152
Douro
Q
Muxagat Vinhos | Douro White
2008
UWS: 90/100
The 2008 BRANCO is 90% Rabigato, and 5% each of Siria and Gouveio. If the 2007 reviewed this issue is in a
perfect place, gentle, laid back, but still fresh, this is fresher still, not quite as gentle on opening, notably less evolved
and more vibrant. There is a slightly racy note to this wine, and while subtle, it makes it quite attractive. Muxagat's
touch with Rabigato is very appealing. The wines do not seem powerful, deep or profound, yet they remain
persistent, flavorful and utterly charming, sneaking up on you and winning you over with mouth coating texture. At
the moment the 2007 reviewed this issue is probably in a better place, but it won't take long for this 2008 to overtake
it. Drink now2015.
Ripe lime aromas and a full richly fruity palate give a rounded character to this wine. Apricot juice and tangerine
brighten up the palate, fitting well with the wood and fruit structure. Keep for another few months for the whole wine
to fill out even more.
01 Apr 2010
90/100
153
Minho
M
Casa Da Senra | Loureiro Vinho Verde
2011
UWS: 90/100
Lima subregion. Vines at 250300 m. TA 5.5 g/l. pH 3.11. A touch reduced but Loureiro floral aromas still there
and stony/dusty notes. Intense with some sweetness to round it out and a sourapple aftertaste. (JH)
Ca
Quinta da Aveleda | Vinho Verde Alvarinho
2008
UWS: 90/100
The 2008 ALVARINHO, poured at the winery in Vinho Verde, is quite lovely, powerful and crisp, lighter and far
more elegant than the 2005, but racier and showing more minerality. It is holding nicely. With a slight herbaceous
nuance, it is young, fresh and vigorous. Drink now2017.
A full style of Vinho Verde, with fruit tannins giving a tight structure to the intense grapefruit juice. The wine is bone
dry, achingly so to start, but then rounding sufficiently as the fine fruit flavors kick in.
This crisp white shows juicy lemon zest and grapefruit flavors, with peach and Bosc pear. The finish offers rich
flourishes, with light, spicy notes. Drink now. 5,000 cases made. KM
Wine Spectator © (WS), Kim Marcus 15 Nov 2009 87/100
While the aroma is flinty and a little undeveloped, the flavors already show layers of fruit, from Mandarin orange
and lime to white peach and an aniselike fennel note. The contrast between smoky richness and freshness makes this
a luscious wine to enjoy in late summer with lobster and corn on the cob, both off the grill.
Q
Quinta Do Ameal | Loureiro Vinho Verde
2010
UWS: 91/100
The 2010 LOUREIRO, i.e., the regular Branco from owner Pedro Araujo, is unoaked, and gloriously so. It is so
fresh, pure and transparent, with beautifully well integrated bursts of acidity that it is almost immediately irresistible
out of the gate. Elegant in the midpalate, as Loureiro typically is, this lovely Branco is aromatic, a bit lemon tinged
and laced with streaks of minerality. Not particularly dense, just 11.5% alcohol and without any wow factor, it is
nonetheless persistent and charming and seems to acquire some solidity as it airs out and warms up, with a viscous
texture coating the palate. Some two days later, it was, if anything, more expressive. There were 4,000 cases
produced. Normally, I predict shorter lifespans for these, but the winery has consistently proven that it can make
wines that age a bit. Still, be conservative, as I am—it drinks well now and it won't turn into anything more special
with age. Drink now2015. Ameal, based in the popular town of Ponte de Lima, specializes in the Loureiro grape.
This is one of those Vinho Verde (+ Minhothe regional, vin de pays appellation designation) estates trying to
make wine without the fizz and in a more serious style. Owner Pedro Araujo declares that the wines can age, indeed,
insisting that they can last for some 15 years. (Verticals at the winery suggest that might be true in the best years,
although what happens at the winery is not always duplicated in the distribution chain.) The prices are, not
surprisingly, higher and the production levels are low. The more traditional, fizzy Vinhos Verdes can still be quite
charming for summer and they certainly have a place. These from Ameal are a different style—give them a try. Note
that Loureiro is a grape that tends to produce rather elegant wines. While these are in a more serious style, it is not
a white Rhone, nor intended to be. Don't expect power and concentration here. That's not what they are.
30 Jun 2012
89/100
90% Loureiro, 10% Arinto. Granite soils, south facing. Organic viticulture. Cool ferment. Herby and lightly floral
plus a certain creaminess. Crisp and dry with pear fruit, almost sour, on the palate. Lovely purity and freshness.
Good length more than concentration. Stony finish with a touch of grapefruitpith sour zestiness. (JH)
154
make wine without the fizz and in a more serious style. Owner Pedro Araujo declares that the wines can age, indeed,
insisting that they can last for some 15 years. (Verticals at the winery suggest that might be true in the best years,
although what happens at the winery is not always duplicated in the distribution chain.) The prices are, not
surprisingly, higher and the production levels are low. The more traditional, fizzy Vinhos Verdes can still be quite
charming for summer and they certainly have a place. These from Ameal are a different style—give them a try. Note
that Loureiro is a grape that tends to produce rather elegant wines. While these are in a more serious style, it is not
a white Rhone, nor intended to be. Don't expect power and concentration here. That's not what they are.
30 Jun 2012
89/100
90% Loureiro, 10% Arinto. Granite soils, south facing. Organic viticulture. Cool ferment. Herby and lightly floral
plus a certain creaminess. Crisp and dry with pear fruit, almost sour, on the palate. Lovely purity and freshness.
Good length more than concentration. Stony finish with a touch of grapefruitpith sour zestiness. (JH)
155
Coastal Region
Q
Avondale | Chenin Blanc Coastal Region
2006
UWS: 91/100
A wine that takes a delightful detour from the more typical rounded Chenin style, this bright, zippy wine has lovely
tropical fruit flavors and a refeshing finish. Despite its cheerful character it's also quite intense and layered. Enjoy
with more delicate dishes like light salads, or sip on its own.
156
Constantia
A
Klein Constantia | Chardonnay Constantia
2008
UWS: 95/100
Decanter © (DC) 05 Dec 2012 4/5
157
Groenekloof
Kl
Neil Ellis | Groenekloof Sauvignon Blanc
2011
UWS: 90/100
This crackles with vivacious lemon zest, white peach and straw notes, which remain invigorating through the finish,
framed by a melon rind note and a flash of fennel. Drink now. JM
158
Other
N
Cederberg | Chenin Blanc Cederberg
2009
UWS: 90/100
01 Feb 2011
90/100
159
Paarl
Ce
Ridgeback Wines | Viognier Paarl
2008
UWS: 90/100
Here's a gorgeous Viognier that is showing very well. Soft toasted brioche topped with baked red apple, ginger and
orange clove spice aromas transition into flavors of spiced peach and orange oil in the full mouth. Well balanced
with a long, spicy finish.
01 Jun 2011
90/100
160
Robertson
Ri
Graham Beck Wines | Chardonnay Robertson
2008
UWS: 91/100
28 Jan 2012
91/100
161
Stellenbosch
Gr
Kanu Wines | Chenin Blanc Stellenbosch
2004
UWS: 90/100
A beautifully crisp, unoaked Chenin that jumps from the glass with its vibrant spicy, floral fruit aromas. Just off dry,
this wine's crisp acidity is nicely balanced with just a hint of sweeter Chenin used as part of the blend. Imported by
Cape Classics.
K
Ken Forrester Vineyards | Chenin Blanc Stellenbosch
2008
UWS: 90/100
Medium yellow. Cool aromas of menthol, minerals, crushed stone and underripe pineapple, plus a sweaty hint that
reminded me of a Loire Valley example. Broad, rich and minerally but youthfully dumb today, with its fruit currently
hidden by resin and stone. A very serious chenin with an enticing sweet touch that should work well at the dinner
table. I'd wait until the summer to pop a bottle.
International Wine Cellar © (IWC), Stephen Tanzer 01 Mar 2009 90/100
K
Ken Forrester Vineyards | Chenin Blanc Stellenbosch
2011
UWS: 95/100
Decanter © (DC)
K
Mulderbosch | Chardonnay Stellenbosch
14 Feb 2013
4/5
2007
UWS: 90/100
IWine Review © (IWR) 08 Mar 2012 89+/100
The Mulderbosch Chardonnay is a lively, bright white with aromas of vanilla, spice and citrus, followed by tropical
fruit, minerals and lemon on the palate. A combination of soft, elegant fruit and fresh acidity, the wine is both
balanced and downright mouthwatering. Pair with lobster, Asian cuisine, creamy pastas.
M
Rustenberg | Stellenbosch Roussanne
2006
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
R
Simonsig Wine Estate | Chenin Blanc Stellenbosch
28 Apr 2011
3/5
2011
UWS: 90/100
The 2011 Chenin Blanc forms the perfect introduction to South African Chenin at a bargain basement price. It has a
crisp nose of fresh Nashi pear and chalk dust. The palate is nicely balanced with tangerine and apricot tinged fruit
that leads to a delicate finish with welljudged acidity and hints of peach on the finish. This is straight to the points,
no frills, delicious Chenin. Drink now2015.
162
White Wines Spain
Catalonia
Si
Bodega Pares Balta | Xarel-lo Penedès Calcari
2010
UWS: 91/100
color Amarillo Brillante. Aroma Intensidad Media, Equilibrado, Hierbas Silvestres, Flores Marchitas, Varietal.
Boca Sabroso, Frutoso, Buena Acidez.
Guia Penin © (GP)
B
Bodegas Albet I Noya | Penedes Chardonnay
25 Jan 2012
91/100
2006
UWS: 91/100
100% Xarello. Pretty neutral with a touch of peach. Nice weight: richness balanced by good acidity. Minerally long
finish
B
Gramona | Penedes White Gessami
2007
UWS: 91/100
(30% each of muscat d'Alexandria, muscat de Frontignan and sauvignon blanc, plus 10% gewurztraminer) Pale
gold. Highly pungent, sexy bouquet of melon, tangerine, rose, lavender and cinnamon; smells like a head shop, or an
aromatherapy counter. Juicy and fresh, with lively citrus and pit fruit flavors giving way to fleshier honeydew and
papaya. A strong mineral element emerges on the finish, which is dry, focused and long. All four of the varieties
show their personalities in this wine, which will be amazingly flexible at the table. (Eric Solomon Selections,
Charlotte, NC)
01 Sep 2008
91/100
163
White Wines Spain
Galicia
Gr
Adegas d'Altamira | Albariño Rias Baixas Selección
2007
UWS: 90/100
This polished white delivers pear, peach, grapefruit and mineral notes, with good weight and lively acidity.
Balanced and fresh. Drink now. 1,389 cases made. TM
Wine Spectator © (WS), Thomas Matthews
28 Apr 2011
88/100
There's a pureness and clarity to this albariño, the floral scents lifted by a good bit of spritz on the palate. The
flavors are all about coastal character, with leesiness that's delicate, stony and clean. An expansive white to serve
with seared scallops.
Pale, bright yellow. Pungent aromas of pear skin, mango and lime, with a suave floral and herbal undertone.
Penetrating, sharply focused citrus and orchard fruit flavors gain depth and sweetness with air and pick up a hint of
anise. A touch dry on the finish, where the lime note recurs. (Quintessential Wines, Napa, CA)
01 Jul 2009
87/100
Newish producer. Won a trophy in the Decanter World Wine Awards. Lively, racy, pretty good and pure.
09 Jun 2009
16/20
A delicious wine that's entirely impressive in the way it delivers smooth, subtle citrus and honey aromas in front of a
generous but controlled palate of tangerine, apple, lemon and spice. A luxurious, smooth experience, with a sexy
mouthfeel and finely integrated acidity. Expensive for Albariño, but fewer than 3,000 cases were produced.
A
01 Apr 2009
Adegas Valdes | Albariño Rias Baixas Gundian
91/100
2011
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
A
Bodega Martín Códax | Albariño Rias Baixas Burgáns
06 Feb 2013
3/5
2011
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
B
Bodegas Lagar de Cervera | Albariño Rias Baixas
06 Feb 2013
3/5
1999
UWS: 90/100
Vibrant, nuanced aromas of apple, lemon, ginger, mint, nutmeg and dusty stone. Quite dry and brisk, with subtle
apple, spice and mineral flavors and excellent extract. Classic but not austere. Finishes with spicy persistence.
(Europvin Iberia, Watertown, MA)
B
Bodegas Lagar de Cervera | Albariño Rias Baixas
01 Sep 2000
90/100
2011
UWS: 90/100
Light yellow. Pear, melon and honey on the nose and in the mouth. Supple and expansive, with very good depth and
energy. Shows a refreshingly bitter quinine nuance on the long, sappy, clinging finish. This wine has the heft to
handle richer foods but also the vivacity to work with simply prepared lighter fare as well.
01 Sep 2012
90/100
164
White Wines Spain
UWS: 90/100
Light yellow. Pear, melon and honey on the nose and in the mouth. Supple and expansive, with very good depth and
energy. Shows a refreshingly bitter quinine nuance on the long, sappy, clinging finish. This wine has the heft to
handle richer foods but also the vivacity to work with simply prepared lighter fare as well.
B
Bodegas Valdesil | Valdeorras Godello Valdesil
01 Sep 2012
90/100
2007
UWS: 90/100
(100% godello) Light yellowgold. Sexy lees, honeyed pear, peach and smoky minerals on the nose, with anise and
sweet butter qualities. Lush, waxy citrus and orchard fruit flavors become smoky with air, taking on a creamy
quality reminiscent of highend white Bordeaux. Juicy pear and apple flavors cling on the long, sappy finish, which
echoes the lees and anise qualities. This performs far above its price point. (Eric Solomon Selections, Charlotte, NC)
01 Sep 2008
91/100
The 2007 Val de Sil is 100% Godello from 50+ year old vines and was aged surlie. Light to medium goldcolored, it
has an enticing nose of mineral, melon, and lemon curd. Creamytextured, ripe, and intensely flavored, this tasty
effort may well evolve for 12 years but can be enjoyed now.
eRobertParker.com © (WA), Jay Miller 31 Aug 2008 90/100
B
Burgans | Albariño Rias Baixas
2009
UWS: 90/100
The 2009 Albarino is light goldcolored with a lovely bouquet of white flowers, hazelnut, peach pit, and mineral. On
the palate it is surprisingly complex for its bargain price with a viscosity bordering on opulence. If you enjoy
Albarino, this is one to buy by the case. Burgans' Albarino is an annual Best Buy in this journal but the superb 2009
vintage in Rias Baixas has carried it to new heights.
B
30 Apr 2010
90/100
2010
UWS: 90/100
Simply delicious white wine with lipsmacking freshness, bright peach and apple flavors, and clarity from front to
back. It's a little leesy but a lot more crisp and oceanic, with a wellcut body and mild citrus undertones throughout.
The Burgans Albarino is a perennial Best Buy in these pages. The 2010 Burgans Albarino delivers notes of lemon,
peach, mineral, and a hint of tropical fruit aromas. Round, ripe, and savory with a slightly exotic personality, it is a
nicely textured effort that overdelivers in a big way. Drink it over the next 23 years.
B
30 Jun 2011
90/100
2011
UWS: 90/100
Pale gold. Powerful scents of pineapple, mango and white flowers, with a chalky overtone. Supple and round in the
mouth, offering juicy tropical fruit flavors and a bracing note of lemon zest. The floral note comes back on the long,
broad finish.
01 Sep 2012
90/100
A custom cuvee made for Eric Solomon from this large producer, this 2011 Albarino reveals loads of tropical fruit,
white peach, honeysuckle and apricot notes along with medium body and a fresh, lively style. The crisp acid and
abundant fruit make this a hedonistic, crowdpleasing, dry white to drink over the next 12 years.
B
Finca de Arantei | Albariño Rias Baixas
30 Jun 2012
89/100
2007
165
White Wines Spain
UWS: 90/100
The 2007 Finca de Arantei Albarino is sourced entirely from estate grown fruit, a relative rarity in Rias Baixas.
Medium strawcolored, it exhibits an enticing nose of spring flowers, mineral, green apple, lemon, and a hint of
tropical aromas in the background. Round on the palate, it has lively acidity, a sense of elegance, and sprightly
flavors. Drink this tasty white over the next two years.
Fi
Finca de Arantei | Albariño Rias Baixas
28 Feb 2009
90/100
2008
UWS: 90/100
Finca de Arantei's 2008 Albarino is sourced from a single vineyard planted in 1990. Light goldcolored, it offers up
an enticing nose of mineral, lemonlime, floral notes, and a hint of tropical aromas. On the palate it is round, ripe,
and spicy with good depth and lively acidity. Drink it over the next 23 years.
Fi
Pazo de Galegos | Albariño Rias Baixas
30 Apr 2010
90/100
2007
UWS: 90/100
Light greengold. Ripe lime and pear on the nose, with subtle anise and herbal notes adding complexity. Enters the
mouth fleshy and broad but quickly tightens up, offering taut lime and orchard fruit flavors with a nervy chalky
undertone. Blends depth with briskness and finishes with smooth orange and yellow plum flavors. Impressively
complex wine with the power to stand up to richer foods. (Ole Imports, New Rochelle, NY)
01 Sep 2008
90/100
The 2007 Albarino was sourced from 26 year old vines and raised in stainless steel with partial malolactic
fermentation. Light goldcolored, it has an attractive perfume of lemon, orange peel, and mineral. Creamy, round,
and balanced, it has very good acidity and a long, crisp finish. Drink it over the next 12 years. The Pazo de
Galegos estate is located in the interior of Rias Baixas(most producers are on the coast) giving more consistent
weather.
Pa
Telmo Rodriguez | Valdeorras Gaba Do Xil
2010
UWS: 90/100
color Pajizo Brillante. Aroma Fresco, Fruta Fresca, Flores Blancas. Boca Sabroso, Frutoso, Buena Acidez,
Equilibrado.
Guia Penin © (GP)
25 Jan 2012
92/100
The 2010 Gaba do Xil Godello (100%) offers up an inviting nose of pear, mineral, melon, and jasmine. Ripe, savory,
and vibrant on the palate, this smoothtextured wine will deliver enjoyment for another 34 years. The current
Telmo Rodriguez collection includes wines produced in eight different DOs, all of them fermented with native yeasts.
The fact that quality ranges from excellent to outstanding is a tribute to his talent and attention to detail.
Te
Telmo Rodriguez | Valdeorras Gaba Do Xil
30 Jun 2011
89/100
2011
UWS: 90/100
A rich, fleshy white, with pear, peach, grapefruit, floral and mineral notes, kept fresh and focused by a firm
backbone of acidity. The long finish is spicy and floral. Drink now. TM
30 Apr 2013
90/100
166
White Wines Spain
Rueda and Duero
Te
Bodega Felix Lorenzo Cachazo | Rueda Gran Cardiel
2009
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC) 22 Nov 2011 3/5
B
Bodegas Bodegas y Vinedos Dos Victorias | Rueda Verdejo Jose Pariente
2006
UWS: 90/100
Thick on the palate, yet remains lively, thanks to firm acidity. Pear, papaya and piecrust flavors are ripe and round.
Perhaps a bit coarse, but bold. Drink now through 2009. 12,500 cases made. TM
28 Apr 2011
87/100
29 Feb 2008
90/100
An excellent Verdejo from Rueda is as good as fresh, crisp white wine from Spain gets. And the two Victorias that
make José Pariente know their stuff. After an overly ripe 2005, this vintage shows more of Pariente's patented
lemon, citrus and mango flavors. The feel of the wine is super solid and the finish is long and properly acidic. It's a
treat for fans of Spanish whites.
Yellowgold color. Vibrantly floral aromas of fresh tangerine and nectarine underscored by jasmine, herbs and
minerals. Fleshy pit fruit flavors display impressive power and a sappy, tactile personality. A serious rendition of
verdejo, finishing with excellent depth and thrust.
B
Bodegas Naia | Rueda Naia
01 Sep 2007
90/100
2007
UWS: 90/100
The 2007 Naiades is 100% Verdejo fermented and aged for 8 months in French oak. Light gold colored, it exhibits
an alluring nose of vanilla, honey, baking spices, pear, and melon. On the palate the oak is nicely integrated while
contributing to the wine's creamy texture. Layered, rich, and long, this superb rendition of Verdejo will drink well
for another 23 years.
30 Apr 2010
92/100
(100% verdejo) Bright yellowgold. Expressive melon and orchard fruit aromas are complemented by fresh flowers.
Soft and openknit, with fleshy pear and apple flavors, gentle minerality and good finishing lift. I find this richer than
the Las Brisas but prefer that wine's energy and precision today.
B
01 Sep 2008
88/100
2009
UWS: 90/100
Vivid gold. Pear, quince and tangerine on the nose, with notes of green almond and honey adding complexity.
Smooth in texture and rather rich for the category, offering deep orchard fruit flavors and a hint of smokiness, likely
from the partial barrelfermentation. Becomes spicier with air and finishes with very good punch and an echo of
pear. Not a classic verdejo, but a delicious white wine.
International Wine Cellar © (IWC), Josh Raynolds 01 Nov 2010 90/100
The 2009 Naia is 100% Verdejo with 12% of the wine fermented and aged sur lie in French oak, 88% in stainless
steel. Light goldcolored, it gives up an impressive perfume of baking spices, floral notes, and pit fruits. On the
palate it has surprising richness (from the lees aging and the exceptional vintage conditions), terrific concentration,
and a lengthy finish. It should drink well for another
3 by
years.
Published
90pluswines.com
167
30 Apr 2010
91/100
UWS: 90/100
Vivid gold. Pear, quince and tangerine on the nose, with notes of green almond and honey adding complexity.
Smooth in texture and rather rich for the category, offering deep orchard fruit flavors and a hint of smokiness, likely
from the partial barrelfermentation. Becomes spicier with air and finishes with very good punch and an echo of
pear. Not a classic verdejo, but a delicious white wine.
White Wines Spain
The 2009 Naia is 100% Verdejo with 12% of the wine fermented and aged sur lie in French oak, 88% in stainless
steel. Light goldcolored, it gives up an impressive perfume of baking spices, floral notes, and pit fruits. On the
palate it has surprising richness (from the lees aging and the exceptional vintage conditions), terrific concentration,
and a lengthy finish. It should drink well for another 3 years.
B
30 Apr 2010
91/100
2010
UWS: 91/100
color Pajizo Brillante. Aroma Flores Blancas, Varietal, Complejo, Fruta Madura. Boca Sabroso, Frutoso, Buena
Acidez, Equilibrado.
Guia Penin © (GP)
25 Jan 2012
92/100
Light gold. Fresh lime and orange zest aromas are lifted by talc and mint notes. Taut citrus and green apple flavors
pick up a gingery nuance with air and show an intense mineral character. Textbook nervy, focused verdejo, finishing
with very good precision and spicy persistence.
B
01 Sep 2011
Marques de Riscal | Sauvignon Rueda
90/100
2008
UWS: 90/100
100% Verdejo. Screwcap. 20 days in stainless steel. A hint of coconut even. More and more interesting fruit
flavours than many Rueda whites, though on the finish it's a bit watery.
24 Jun 2009
16/20
168
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California
M
Beringer | Chardonnay California Founders' Estate
2008
UWS: 90/100
This New World wine provides classic California richness, ripe melonpeach fruit, with wellmannered, real oak.
The key is the finely honed palate, with perfect fruitoak and acidalcohol balance, from talented winemaker Laurie
Hook.
Be
28 Jan 2012
Family Vineyards Mcmanis | Viognier California
90/100
2011
UWS: 90/100
True Viognier fruit loads of it, bursting on the palate. A Starburststyle wine. Admirably confident, though not for
classicists. (RH)
Fa
Foxglove | Chardonnay San Luis Obispo
16 Oct 2012
16/20
2008
UWS: 91/100
The sensational 2008 Chardonnay Central Coast, which is fermented and aged completely in stainless steel with no
malolactic fermentation, is a 30,000cuvee of fabulous Chardonnay. Loads of tropical fruit, honeysuckle, and orange
blossom notes fill the olfactory sense, as does the luscious mediumbodied texture on the palate. The wine is
buttressed by crisp underlying acidity, and the result is a fresh, naked expression of Chardonnay that is topflight.
Drink it over the next year or so. These are absolutely spectacular bargains from the very highquality Varner
Winery in the Santa Cruz Mountains. This is their less expensive lineup of wines, and I encourage readers to try
them they are true winners. Tel. (650) 3214894; fax (650) 3214893
Fo
2010
UWS: 90/100
The 2010 Chardonnay is one of the top values in California wine. It possesses tons of ripe, varietal fruit in a style
that is quite rich but not heavy. Clean citrus and floral notes add freshness on the long finish. Lees stirring gives the
wine much of its richness, while aging in steel helps maintain freshness. There is remarkable depth and textural
finesse here, never mind a price that is mindboggling for this level of quality.
Fo
2011
UWS: 91/100
The 2011 Chardonnay is a beauty, as well as an absurd value. Very clean and lively, with classic Chardonnay notes
of juiced apple, citrus and minerality, it is clean and focused on the palate with the richness of the variety, yet also
beautiful precision and focus. Classy and wellmade, without any apparent oak, it should be purchased by the case
and consumed over the coming 23 years. Drink now2016. These superb values are made by Brothers Jim and Bob
Varner, who in addition to these high quality efforts, release brilliant Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs under their
Varner and Neely labels.
eRobertParker.com © (WA) 31 Aug 2013 91/100
169
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Fo
Greg Brewer Diatom | Santa Rita Hills Chardonnay Huber Vineyard
2005
UWS: 92/100
Intense and vibrant, yet smooth in texture, with creamy Meyer lemon, lime peel, pear, mineral and pebble notes.
Shows some heat on the finish, yet this remains a very complete and compelling young wine. Drink now through
2010. 225 cases made. JL
Wine Spectator © (WS), James Laube 31 May 2007 91/100
Whatever your feelings on the 16.2% alcohol might be, this wine is an achievement. Compared to Diatom's Clos
Pepe bottling, this one's more citrusy, and certainly more acidic, which helps balance the alcohol. The lemon drop
flavor detonates on the palate with an almost searing intensity that stimulates the salivary glands, and while the
finish is bone dry, it has a honeyrich opulence.
01 Apr 2007
94/100
From a vineyard planted in sandy soil, the 2005 Chardonnay Huber Vineyard reveals a light green/gold color as
well as beautifully rich, honeyed flavors of orange rind, lemon blossom, and citrus oil. As the wine sits in the glass,
fresh floral notes also appear. It is a wellmade, fullbodied Chardonnay with impeccable purity and texture. Drink
it over the next 23 years. Tel. (805) 4525609
Gr
Iron Horse | Green Valley Chardonnay
2006
UWS: 91/100
Oak spice lasts over this chardonnay's clean flavors of lemon zest. It's balanced and long, a savory style to serve
with roast pork tenderloin and stone fruit mustard.
01 Oct 2008
91/100
Iron Horse's estate Chard is a remarkably consistent wine. Never overoaked, superripe or heavy, it always has an
elegant minerality. The '06, from a coolish vintage, is flavored with green apples, Meyer lemons and Bosc pears.
Ir
Jade Mountain | Napa Viognier Paras Vineyard
01 Sep 2008
91/100
1997
UWS: 90/100
The 1997 Viognier Paras Vineyard (from a hillside vineyard on Mt. Veeder) is a fullbodied, honeyed, floral style of
Viognier with good texture, chewy richness, and a lush, pure finish. Consume it over the next year. Tel. (707) 965
3084
Ja
Jade Mountain | Napa Viognier Paras Vineyard
1999
UWS: 90/100
Open honey, pear, citrus blossom, peach and mineral aromas and flavours. Very round, elegant and supple with a
buttery, honey citrus finish. A lovely soft low acid style with wonderful ripe fruit flavours in the finish.
26 Jan 2012
93/100
One of the finest American Viogniers I have tasted, Jade Mountain's 1999 Viognier Paras Vineyard (14.9% alcohol)
sees some barrel fermentation. It possesses a superb nose of honeysuckle, peaches, apricots, and tropical fruits.
Aged in neutral barrels prior to bottling, the wine exhibits a terrific texture, great fruit purity, and a fullbodied,
opulent finish. Drink it over the next 12 years. Tel. (707) 9653084
28 Feb 2002
91/100
A bit raw, but with good weight to flavors of vanilla, herbs and peach. Drink now. 510 cases made. JL
Wine Spectator © (WS), James Laube
28 Feb 2001
86/100
170
buttery, honey citrus finish. A lovely soft low acid style with wonderful ripe fruit flavours in the finish.
26 Jan 2012
93/100
One of the finest American Viogniers I have tasted, Jade Mountain's 1999 Viognier Paras Vineyard (14.9% alcohol)
sees some barrel fermentation. It possesses a superb nose of honeysuckle, peaches, apricots, and tropical fruits.
Aged in neutral barrels prior to bottling, the wine exhibits a terrific texture, great fruit purity, and a fullbodied,
opulent finish. Drink it over the next 12 years. Tel. (707) 9653084
White Wines USA
28 Feb 2002
91/100
A bit raw, but with good weight to flavors of vanilla, herbs and peach. Drink now. 510 cases made. JL
Ja
Liberty School | Central Coast Chardonnay
28 Feb 2001
86/100
2009
UWS: 90/100
Nose is like candied popcorn, then the palate becomes melon and grapefruit reminiscent of Macon. Very fresh,
balanced wine. Drink now.
Li
Luna Vineyards | Napa Pinot Gris / Pinot Grigio
12 Jan 2012
90/100
2010
UWS: 90/100
Lu
Mason | Napa Sauvignon Blanc
2007
UWS: 90/100
This wine has fine tropical fruit intensity without excess weight, the flavors of green mango skin, litchi and
gooseberry make a juicy impression that lasts. Chill it for grilled fish with mango chutney.
01 Oct 2009
91/100
A refreshing, crisp style, showing lime, passion fruit, grass and grapefruit notes, with mouthwatering acidity, a light
body and herb notes. Offers great intensity and focus, finishing with a pleasant bitter almond skin note. Drink now.
7,500 cases made. MW
Wine Spectator © (WS), MaryAnn Worobiec 31 Aug 2009 90/100
The more serious 2007 Sauvignon Blanc sees 15% barrel fermentation as well as plenty of lees aging. It possesses
more texture, wood, and spice as well as a slightly smokier, more honeyed melon character, but for a 33% higher
price, is it that much better? Both wines need to be consumed over the next year. Tel. (707) 2550658; Fax (707)
2550656
M
Palmina Wines | Santa Barbara Pinot Grigio Alisos Vineyard
2007
UWS: 90/100
The 2007 Pinot Grigio Alisos exhibits notes of buttered apples intermixed with hints of tropical fruit and a slice of
minerality in its light to mediumbodied flavors. This wine should be drunk over the next 1216 months. Steve
Clifton's Italian Stallion operation in southern California is the best of its kind in the United States, and these wines
seem to go from strength to strength. His excellent whites are all stainless steel fermented and really do capture
much of the character that comes from the region most commonly associated with these wines, northeastern Italy.
Tel. (805) 7352030; fax (805) 7352693
Pa
Pine Ridge | California Chenin Blanc / Viognier
2009
UWS: 90/100
Consistently a killer wine value is Pine Ridge's 45,000case blend of 80% Chenin Blanc and 20% Viognier. The
2009 Chenin Blanc/Viognier offers up soaring floral notes intermixed with white peaches and apricots. This
delectable, fresh, crisp, lightbodied, dry white should be drunk over the next year. Barrel samples of the 2009
Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, 2009 Stags Leap Cabernet Sauvignon and 2009 Fortis Cabernet Sauvignon all showed
forward fruit, deep color, charming tannins, and perhaps less weight than the 2008s or 2007s, but lots of style and
elegance. They will be drinkable early on and I am sure will put on additional weight during their upbringing in
barrel.
171
UWS: 90/100
Consistently a killer wine value is Pine Ridge's 45,000case blend of 80% Chenin Blanc and 20% Viognier. The
2009 Chenin Blanc/Viognier offers up soaring floral notes intermixed with white peaches and apricots. This
delectable, fresh, crisp, lightbodied, dry white should be drunk over the next year. Barrel samples of the 2009
Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, 2009 Stags Leap Cabernet Sauvignon and 2009 Fortis Cabernet Sauvignon all showed
forward fruit, deep color, charming tannins, and perhaps less weight than the 2008s or 2007s, but lots of style and
elegance. They will be drinkable early on and I am sure will put on additional weight during their upbringing in
barrel.
White Wines USA
Pi
Stone Cellars | California Sauvignon Blanc
2008
UWS: 90/100
Richly fruited and tropical, this is a mediumbodied, slightly creamytextured Marlborough Savvy. Flavors hint at
pineapple, honey and stone fruit, yet remain zesty and clean, with a refreshing citrus zing to the finish. Stock up for
the summer.
St
Taz Vineyards | Santa Barbara Chardonnay
2008
UWS: 90/100
With this 2008, Taz brings to the table a wonderful Chardonnay at a great price. It's dry and crisply acidic, with
bright, perky flavors of oranges, peaches, Meyer lemons and smoky vanilla. Really nice and clean, a lovely wine and
a good restaurant bytheglass selection. Production was 9,000 cases.
Ta
The Hess Collection | California Chardonnay Selection
2007
UWS: 90/100
W_Chardonnay CA. #1; COLORmedium golden; NOSEbutterscotch; a little Oak; PALATEthat is one good
bottle of Chardonnay; really good fruit & complexity; good subtle oak; balanced throughout; I like the creaminess
of the upfront fruit and the acid on the backend; good length as well; a smokey burnt wood action; very good; one
of the better CA Chards I've had in a while; very impressive; GV90
Th
Justin Vineyards & Winery | Paso Robles Chardonnay Reserve
30 Apr 2009
90/100
1997
UWS: 91/100
Focused and fullbodied describe this California Chardonnay, with its wellbalanced profile of toasty, creamy, citrus
tinged peach and apricot flavors. The clean finish is harmonious and silky. Drink now. 3,000 cases made. JL
Ju
Foxen | Chenin Blanc Santa Maria Valley Ernesto Wickenden Vineyard Old
Vines
30 Jun 1999
91/100
2009
UWS: 90/100
Peach, chamomile, pear and apple flavors are rich and smooth, rounded out by tangy acidity. Spicy details chime in
on the finish. Drink now. MW
Wine Spectator © (WS), MaryAnn Worobiec
15 Jun 2011
86/100
For years, Foxen has been producing one of the best Chenin Blancs in California, and with this 2009, they have
outdone themselves. It's so rich in orange, honeydew and pineapple flavors, it might almost be Chardonnay, except
it's drier and more minerally, and there's a wonderful note of dried herbs. Although production was only 575 cases,
this wine is worth a special search, especially for sommeliers.
172
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Fo
Santa Barbara Winery | Sauvignon Blanc Santa Ynez Valley
2008
UWS: 90/100
A beautiful Sauvignon Blanc that shows why this warmish Santa Barbara County valley is such a natural home for
the variety. With crisp acidity and a creamy texture, it's dry and minerally, with interestingly rich flavors of citrus
fruits, melons and pears, and a touch of smoky oak.
Sa
Iron Horse | Chardonnay Sonoma County Green Valley Rued Clone
01 Jul 2010
90/100
2005
UWS: 91/100
Pure ripe apple, pear and melonlaced fruit is delicate and refined, keeping the focus on the fruit. Drink now. 235
cases made. JL
28 Apr 2011
87/100
With this wine Iron Horse takes a giant step toward great Chablis. By that I mean the intense dryness and zesty
acidity, and the tangy grip of iron and wet stone that undergirds the Meyer lemon, pineapple zest, honeysuckle,
apricot, cinnamon spice and new oak flavors. This Chard is all about structural integrity. It should have a useful life
of at least six years, gaining momentum and nuance.
This is the first bottling of the Rued Clone, considered a Green Valley native that came originally from the Rued
Vineyard. Cool scents of citrus and tart apple balance the richer tones of oak, giving a gentle wine with smoky
mineral notes from the lees. It's balanced, with a lasting sweetness.
Ir
Iron Horse | Chardonnay Sonoma County Green Valley Rued Clone
01 Jun 2007
92/100
2007
UWS: 91/100
The Rued clone had been isolated in Green Valley, but it's not clear by whom. The Sterlings at Iron Horse, who
planted a block with this clone in 1986, are continuing to research its origin. In 2007, it produced a muscular
chardonnay, with potent green apple flavors and lighter scents of agave and orange. The wine is a little spirity,
carrying a lot of alcohol, but it manages it smoothly. Give this a year in bottle, then serve with grilled chicken or
pork.
Ir
Kunde Estate | Sonoma Viognier Estate
01 Oct 2009
91/100
2007
UWS: 90/100
Kunde's been on a consistent roll for years in crafting rich, balanced Viogniers. Their 2007 is crisp and ripe,
offering a blast of tropical fruit, honeysuckle, vanilla and spice flavors that finish impressively long. Nice with fusion
fare, or for something different, TexMex.
173
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Oregon
K
Adelsheim | Oregon Pinot Gris
2008
UWS: 90/100
Light and crisp, this is lively with lingering grapefruit and melon flavors. Drink now. 4,298 cases made. HS
30 Apr 2010
88/100
Adelsheim lays claim to being the third winery in the country to make Pinot Gris; this is their 25th vintage. It's a fine
effort, beautifully rendered with crisp, spicy pear and melon fruit. Mediumbodied, focused and long.
A
David Hill Winery | Willamette Valley Riesling
01 Apr 2010
91/100
2006
UWS: 90/100
The winery notes that these are the oldest commercial Riesling vines in Oregon, planted in 1965. This has a
succulent core of sweet appleflavored fruit, quite rich and delicious. It dries out a little toward the back, but
continues with excellent length and more of that crystal clear fresh red apple flavor. It's got enough textural interest
to keep it from feeling onedimensional.
D
David Hill Winery | Willamette Valley Riesling
2007
UWS: 90/100
Made from vines planted in 1965, David Hill's estate Riesling is aromatic and textural, with an interesting, nuanced
character that brings apples, peaches, pears and passion fruit flavors in profusion. Despite 1.8% residual sugar, it
has plenty of acid and alcohol, finishing with a creamy, lemony fade.
D
Foris | Gewürztraminer Rogue Valley
2006
UWS: 90/100
Fo
King Estate | Oregon Pinot Gris
28 Jan 2012
90/100
2007
UWS: 92/100
A cool pinot gris, this has hightoned aromas of passionfruit with a hint of spearmint. Bright and mouthwatering, its
citrus marmalade flavors are bolstered by leesy notes. It has the right cut for shrimp pasta with crème fraîche.
Light and silky, shining a vivid beam of lemon, melon and pear flavors through the persistent finish. Drink now
Ki
Solena Cellars | Oregon Pinot Gris
2004
UWS: 90/100
Smoky, spicy minerals and apples are found in the nose of Solena's 2004 Pinot Gris. A fresh, mediumbodied wine, it
is satintextured, pure, and filled with smokelaced pears. It should be enjoyed over the next 2 years.
174
www.solenacellars.com; (503) 8520082 Published by 90pluswines.com
30 Jun 2006
88/100
White Wines USA
UWS: 90/100
Smoky, spicy minerals and apples are found in the nose of Solena's 2004 Pinot Gris. A fresh, mediumbodied wine, it
is satintextured, pure, and filled with smokelaced pears. It should be enjoyed over the next 2 years.
www.solenacellars.com; (503) 8520082
30 Jun 2006
88/100
A cut above the competition, this hits on all cylinders. Plenty of texture, rich, round mouthfeel, and nicely ripened
but not overthetop pear and stone fruits. There's a hit of cinnamon spice in the finish, and the flavors seem to
resonate through a long and satisfying finish.
01 Feb 2006
92/100
175
White Wines USA
Washington
So
Barnard Griffin | Riesling Columbia Valley
2007
UWS: 90/100
Mostly old vine (mid1970s) Riesling, this has 11.7% alcohol and about 1% residual sugar. This is a gorgeous
bottle, with floral fragrances that pile on acacia, rose petals and citrus blossom, and then moves into a luscious
midpalate loaded with apples, peaches and citrus. The wine is seamless and well defined, with a perfect mix of fruit
forward flavors and the cut and precision of an ageworthy, Germanstyle Kabinett.
Ba
Barnard Griffin | Riesling Columbia Valley
2008
UWS: 90/100
Aromas explode from the glass with butterscotch (which fades as the wine opens up), Honey Dew melon, and white
grapefruit. This is a textured, layered wine with a great deal of complexity on the palate. Fruit flavors
predominantly white grapefruit step forward and back, undulating on and on. Settles in to an extended finish.
Caroway & Arête vineyards (Columbia Valley). 1.2% RS, .82g/100ml TA, 11.7% alcohol. 3,870 cases produced.
WA Wine Report © (WAW) 19 Nov 2009 8991/100
Light, refreshing and offdry, with pretty peach, pineapple and floral aromas and flavors, echoing enticingly. Nicely
knit. Drink now through 2011. 3,870 cases made. HS
Ba
Chateau Ste Michelle | Columbia Valley Chardonnay Cold Creek Vineyard
15 Jun 2009
90/100
2006
UWS: 90/100
Soft and spicy, with a layer of toast and cocoa underlining the pear and citrus flavors, lingering on the gentle finish.
Drink now through 2012. 4,700 cases made. HS
28 Feb 2009
90/100
The Cold Creek Chardonnay is built upon 30yearold vines, fully ripened at this warm site. Sensuous, soft and
broadly laced with flavors of toasted nuts, brioche and apple pie, this luxurious Chardonnay still maintains a
pleasing, focused structure that carries along flavors of lemon and apple, cut against the dominant oak. Cold Creek
wines are among Washington's most ageworthy.
Savory and deep, this rich chardonnay leads with aromas of caramel and sour apple. Its savory flavors of toast and
dried pear lead through a long, caramelscented finish. Well made in an oakdriven style.
01 Oct 2008
90/100
The 2006 Chardonnay Cold Creek Vineyard is sourced from a 32 year old vineyard, one of the first planted by the
winery and ancient by Washington standards, with yields of less than 2 tons per acre. The wine was aged in 54%
new oak and 50% was fermented with indigenous yeasts. Light gold in color, it reveals aromas of butterscotch,
vanilla, apple, poached pear, and a hint of tropical fruits. Smoothtextured and nicely balanced, the wine's finish is
long and pure. Chateau Ste. Michelle, Washington's largest winery, continues to demonstrate that being big is not
incompatible with high quality. The latest set of releases may be the strongest to date. Tel. (425) 4153300; www.ste
michelle.com
C
Chateau Ste Michelle | Sauvignon Blanc Horse Heaven Hills Horse Heaven
Vineyard
30 Jun 2008
90/100
2006
176
White Wines USA
UWS: 90/100
The strong scent of orange peel and highlights of orange candy is not bad because the fruit flavors are expansive,
and include grapefruit and a lot of citrus as well. It's got textures that suggest time sur lie, and a persistent, focused
midpalate that continues on through an extended finish.
C
Columbia Crest | Horse Heaven Hills Chardonnay H3
2010
UWS: 90/100
A detailed and refined white, layering its pear, tobacco, clotted cream and spice characters with finesse. The flavors
play out gracefully. Deft finish. Drink now through 2015. HS
C
Columbia Winery | Gewürztraminer Columbia Valley
15 Oct 2012
90/100
2003
UWS: 90/100
This is a real success for the winery, made bracingly fresh and crisp despite its 3% residual sugar. Bright flavors of
pink grapefruit dominate the palate, filling out a pristine, crisp and deliciously fresh finish.
C
Hogue | Gewürztraminer Columbia Valley
01 Apr 2005
90/100
2009
UWS: 90/100
Very fine, full and fruity, this is a remarkably flavorful wine. It captures just a hint of the floral/soapy side of the
grape, but brings in delicious fruit flavors of peach and pear and melon and more, a luscious mix that continues to
resonate right on through a powerful finish. It's just slightly offdry, but not really sweet.
01 Feb 2011
90/100
Soft and spicy, offering cinnamon, clove, lychee and pear flavors that glide easily through a charming, lightly sweet
finish. Drink now. HS
Wine Spectator © (WS), Harvey Steiman 15 Dec 2010 89/100
H
Mercer | Riesling Yakima Valley
2009
UWS: 90/100
Balanced between scents of apples and herbs, this simple, juicy white is ripe and fulsome on the palate, its lemony,
clean fruit flavors stopping on a dime in a brisk finish.
01 Oct 2011
91/100
Rather delicate, with 12.6% alcohol yet a distinctly dry mouthfeel, this wellcrafted Riesling mingles green apple,
pear, lemon zest, grapefruit and melon fruit flavors. Good length and texture, with lemon tea flavors to wrap it up.
M
Preston Premium Wines | Columbia Valley Chardonnay Reserve
01 Sep 2011
89/100
1994
UWS: 90/100
Silky, supple, subtle and substantial, it's a lovely mouthful of pear, nutmeg and cream flavors that linger seductively
on the harmonious finish. Delicious now, likely better in 1998 to '99. 1,150 cases made.
15 Sep 1997
90/100
177
White Wines USA
UWS: 90/100
Silky, supple, subtle and substantial, it's a lovely mouthful of pear, nutmeg and cream flavors that linger seductively
on the harmonious finish. Delicious now, likely better in 1998 to '99. 1,150 cases made.
Pr
Seven Hills Winery | White Riesling Columbia Valley
15 Sep 1997
90/100
2010
UWS: 90/100
Seven Hills Winery's new releases include one white wine, a 2010 Riesling made in a Kabinett style with 10.9%
alcohol, 1.8% residual sugar, and plenty of natural acidity. Aromas of mineral, citrus, and spring flowers inform the
nose of a crisp, refreshing wine that is ideal for use as an aperitif.
Se
Snoqualmie Vineyards | Riesling Columbia Valley Naked
2008
UWS: 90/100
A succulent, offdry Riesling from organically grown grapes, Snoqualmie's Naked bottling opens with floral top
notes, fills out the palate with crisp apple and peach fruit, then turns almost tropical, with a lingering finish loaded
with honey and papaya.
Sn
Waterbrook Winery | Columbia Valley Chardonnay Reserve
2011
UWS: 90/100
Ripe, round, polished and deftly balanced, playing the pear, quince and caramel flavors against lively acidity and a
smooth texture. Lingers easily. Drink now through 2015. HS
15 Oct 2013
90/100
The better of the two whites and a classy, elegant effort, the 2011 Chardonnay Reserve offers up notions of golden
apples, brioche, toasted bread and subtle nutty nuances to go with a mediumbodied, supple, yet nicely focused and
clean texture. The oak integrates nicely here with air and this will be even better in another 612 months; enjoy it
over the coming 34 years. It's a serious value. Drink 20142017.
30 Jun 2013
89/100
178
South Australia
W
Turkey Flat | Barossa Valley Rose
2008
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
05 Sep 2012
3/5
Bright fuschia; as elegant as always, made by a team that has developed great expertise with the style; offers an
array of gently sweet red fruits on the midpalate, then a balanced dry finish. Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
94/100
This bright rosé is appealing for its pretty strawberry and rhubarb flavors, finishing offdry. Grenache, Shiraz,
Cabernet Sauvignon and Dolcetto. Drink now. 3,100 cases imported. HS
179
Rose Wines France
Languedoc
Tu
Chateau du Donjon | Minervois Rosé
2006
UWS: 90/100
Habitué des sélections du Guide pour ses vins rouges, Jean Panis ajoute une corde à son arc en décochant ce rosé
qui fait mouche. Sa pâleur délicatement tuilée est le prélude à des senteurs de fraise et de cerise... L'attaque est
rondement menée avec force et vivacité devant un parterre de fleurs, puis la bouche affirme sa puissance et son
volume, avant une finale d'une bonne longueur. Un vrai rosé de repas.
01 Jan 2008
2/3
180
Rose Wines France
Loire
C
Clos Roche Blanche | Pineau d'Aunis Touraine Rosé
2009
UWS: 92/100
Extremely pale pink. Complex bouquet evokes pink grapefruit, strawberry, rhubarb, white pepper and dusty
minerals. Light in body but impressively precise, offering tangy red berry and citrus flavors of surprising depth and
intensity. A subtle floral note comes up with air. Finishes with excellent clarity and mineraldriven persistence, the
spice and citrus notes echoing. This dry, lithe rose would be great with fresh goat cheeses or lighter fish dishes.
(Louis/Dressner Selections, New York NY)
01 Jul 2010
92/100
181
Rose Wines France
Provence
Cl
Chateau Montaud | Côtes de Provence Rosé
2009
UWS: 90/100
Concentrated, with an intense juiciness to the dried berry, cherry, red currant and glazed white fruit flavors. The
long, vibrant finish features cream and white chocolate notes. Drink now through 2012. 20,000 cases made. KM
C
Chateau Real Martin | Côtes de Provence Rosé
31 Jul 2010
90/100
2011
UWS: 90/100
A powerful style, with an aroma of white chocolate and concentrated dark plum and red cherry flavors accented by
raspberry tart notes. Mineral and spice elements linger on the broad, juicy finish. Drink now. KM
C
Domaine Sorin | Côtes de Provence Rosé Terra Amata
2007
UWS: 90/100
Quite a serious Rosé here, with clean, Provencal herbs and gently earthysmoky aromas that are more savoury than
fruity. Lovely balance and flavour concentration on the palate, and a long, savoury salivainducing finish. A Rosé
that goes beyond the simple summertime refresher, delicious.
28 Jan 2012
89/100
Lovely orange salmon shade. Pretty tame on the nose but elegantly charming on the palate, with bone china delicacy
but persistence and sophistication. (RH)
More complex and richly textured than most Provençal rosés, this wine is a treat, from its mineralladen, smoky
aromas to its ripe cherryberry flavors and layered finish. Drink now, although it has enough stuffing to suggest it
might last longer than just a single summer.
01 Jul 2008
89/100
182
Rose Wines France
Rhone Valley
D
Chateau de Segries | Tavel
2011
UWS: 90/100
50% Grenache, 30% Cinsault, 15% Clairette and 5% Syrah. Pale crimson. Sweet, only slightly sticky, mouthfilling
and delightfully round. This is sufficiently refreshing too, without compromising its Tavel identity. Fresh finish.
Bravo! No heat on the finish. But how would one drink it? I'm thinking ham...
11 Sep 2012
31 Jul 2012
16,5/20
90/100
The 2011 Tavel Rose is a blend of 50% Grenache, 30% Cinsault, 15% Clairette (the white grape) and the rest Syrah.
Deep ruby, with elegant strawberry and kirsch notes, the wine has excellent texture, medium body, and plenty of
freshness and personality. Tavel Roses tend to be bigger styled wines than the average Cotes du Rhone rose, and
that is certainly true of the 2011. Drink it over the next several years. This has been a reliable producer of terrific
values in the Cotes du Rhone (and for their Tavel rose) for a number of years, and they have once again done an
admirable job.
30 Jun 2012
89/100
183
Rose Wines France
Roussillon
C
Domaine Lafage | Côtes du Roussillon Rosé Miraflors
2011
UWS: 93/100
There are 3,000 cases of the naked, virginal, unoaked 2011 Bastide Miraflors Vieilles Vignes made from 70% Syrah
and 30% Grenache aged in concrete. The difficult economic situation in the LanguedocRoussillon corridor is being
exploited to the maximum by importer Eric Solomon. The fact that wines such as this can be purchased is
unbelievable. Largely an artisanal wine, it is brilliantly pure with a stunning nose of spring flowers, blackberries,
cassis and earth. It is almost incomprehensible that something of this quality, complexity and richness can be
purchased for $25 to $50, much less $10 to $12. The 3,000 cases should be gobbled up as quickly as they hit
retailers' shelves. I am honored to share my excitement about this amazing wine with readers.
30 Jun 2012
93/100
184
Rose Wines Italy
Abruzzo (Abruzzi)
D
Cataldi Madonna | Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Rosato Cerasuolo
2007
UWS: 90/100
Cataldi Madonna's Cerasuolo is often one of my favorite roses as it is again in 2007. This gorgeous, wellarticulated
wine reveals attractive aromas and flavors that recall rose petals, minerals and earthiness, with excellent depth and
refreshing, bracing acidity that rounds out the long, satisfying finish. Anticipated maturity: 20082009.
Ca
Cataldi Madonna | Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Rosato Cerasuolo
31 Jul 2008
90/100
2008
UWS: 90/100
The 2008 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Cerasuolo from Cataldi Madonna is one of the more overt, fruitdriven roses of
the vintage. Medium in body, the wine possesses gorgeous depth and richness, with a long, polished close. This
relatively intense rose should pair beautifully with a wide range of foods. Anticipated maturity: 20092010.
31 Jul 2009
90/100
185
Rose Wines Italy
Calabria
Ca
Azienda Vitivinicola Librandi | Cirò Rosato
2010
UWS: 90/100
186
Rose Wines Italy
A
Weingut Ansitz Waldgries | Alto Adige Rosenmuskateller
2004
UWS: 90/100
The 2004 Rosenmuskateller reveals gorgeous, sensations of sweet rose petal, coffee beans, plums and spices. Made
in a clean, focused style, this deeply concentrated and expressive Moscato Rosa offers outstanding length as well as
purity. Anticipated maturity: 20072012. Waldgries is located just outside Bolzano in the Santa Maddalena zone.
The estate makes richly flavored Lagreins in an attractive style although the use of oak could be more well
balanced.
31 Oct 2007
90/100
187
Rose Wines South Africa
Stellenbosch
W
Delheim Winery | Pinotage Simonsberg-Stellenbosch Rosé
2007
UWS: 90/100
Fresh aromas of strawberry and lemon are followed in flavor on the palate of this poised and balanced rosé. A touch
of oak adds spice and dimension. Overall, it's delicate and delicious with good acidity. A very pretty wine at a good
price.
03 Jan 2008
90/100
188
Rose Wines Spain
Catalonia
D
Portal del Montsant | Montsant Rosado Brunus
2009
UWS: 90/100
The 2009 Brunus Rosado is made from 100% Garnacha. Dark pink/light ruby in color, it delivers an aromatic array
of cherry, cranberry, and raspberry that jumps from the glass. Meaty, dry, and substantial on the palate, this serious
Rose will drink well for another 2 years.
30 Apr 2010
90/100
189
Red Wines Argentina
Maipu
Po
Bodegas Bodegas y Vinedos Pascual Toso | Syrah Maipú
2007
UWS: 90/100
All sorts of smoky berry, cola and controlled toast aromas get this wine going in the right direction. It tastes very
good, with pure, less than bashful plum and cola flavors leading straight to a fruity, lasting finish. This may not have
much sauvage, old world Syrah character; but for Argentina it's made right and registers from head to toe.
190
Red Wines Argentina
Mendoza
B
Altos Las Hormigas | Malbec Mendoza
2004
UWS: 90/100
Black without being overripe, this malbec smells and tastes of black cherry, red cherry and fig, its body framed by
muscular tannins. It's a young wine, seductively juicy, flaunting its Mendoza character molded by Andean breezes.
With this wine, Altos Las Hormigas proves again to be one of the best sources of resonably priced malbec from
Argentina.
01 Feb 2006
92/100
Big, brawny style, with lots of dark cocoa, tar, black currant and fig flavors supported by loamy tannins. Dense
finish is packed with fruit, minerals and ripe acidity. Needs brief cellaring. Best from 2006 through 2009. 2,650
cases made. JM
Potent and piercing right off the bat. The color says a lot, and the nose is confirmation that with this Malbec you're
not playing around. The berry level is up there, and the flavors of blackberry, cassis and plum are deep and
satisfying. A nice layer of roasted fruit and oak carry the finish, and overall this wine offers a lot of juice per sip.
Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines.
The earthy, dark berryscented 2004 Malbec is a structured, mediumbodied wine with extracted black fruit flavors.
Drink this expressive, somewhat firm effort over the next 4 years. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various importers
including David Schildknecht Selection, Vintner Select, Cincinnati, OH; tel. (513) 2293630; Michael Skurnik,
Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 6779300; Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 3346700
Al
Bodega Antucura | Uco Valley
30 Jun 2005
86/100
2004
UWS: 90/100
The purplecolored 2004 Antucura is also 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon aged for 1216 months in 35%
new French oak. It exhibits slightly brooding aromas of cedar, spice box, black currant, blackberry, and a touch of
licorice. This is followed by a smoothtextured wine with gobs of savory dark fruit, nicely concealed ripe tannins,
incipient complexity, and a lengthy, pure finish. Give it three years of further cellaring and drink it from 2011 to
2025. The Antucura project was started in 1997 with the first vintage in 2003. The winery, located in the Vista
Flores region of Mendoza is a true garage operation. Originally only Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot were planted
but now the vineyard contains 50% Malbec and 10 acres of Pinot Noir have also just been put in. The wines are
made with native yeast fermentation under the guidance of Michel Rolland. The winery also has a splendid inn
located in the vineyard.
This vintage seems more medicinal and overtly ripe than the more balanced 2003. It has high alcohol (15.2%) and
medium acidity, thus it's a touch gummy and syrupy. But if you like power at the core of your CabernetMerlot
blends and you don't mind a little fire in the hole after drinking, then we recommend this chewy, ripe, very modern
offering.
B
Bodega Catena Zapata | Mendoza Agrelo
2002
UWS: 90/100
Redruby. Perfumed aromas of black cherry, cassis, mint, spices and nutty oak. Dense, juicy and penetrating, with
very suave, varietally accurate flavors of dark berries, herbs and mint. This is the first vintage to include grapes
from Altamira, 100 kilometers to the south of the winery, which brings a cooler character to the wine. The Domingo
Vineyard in Tupungato contributes a spice character, notes vineyard director Sejanovich. Firmly built but not at all
dry. Finishes with a delayed whiplash of flavor.
191
Red Wines Argentina
UWS: 90/100
Redruby. Perfumed aromas of black cherry, cassis, mint, spices and nutty oak. Dense, juicy and penetrating, with
very suave, varietally accurate flavors of dark berries, herbs and mint. This is the first vintage to include grapes
from Altamira, 100 kilometers to the south of the winery, which brings a cooler character to the wine. The Domingo
Vineyard in Tupungato contributes a spice character, notes vineyard director Sejanovich. Firmly built but not at all
dry. Finishes with a delayed whiplash of flavor.
B
Bodega Catena Zapata | Mendoza Cabernet Sauvignon Alamos
2010
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
B
Bodega Catena Zapata | Mendoza Cabernet Sauvignon Alamos
01 Jan 2013
3/5
2011
UWS: 90/100
The 2011 Alamos Cabernet Sauvignon is aged in the same manner as the Chardonnay. It has an attractive bouquet
of red currant, blackberry and cassis that is welldefined. The palate is mediumbodied with grainy tannins on the
entry. This is a more reserved take on Cabernet with an Old World sensibility, but it has superb earthiness and an
almost Bordeauxlike classicism on the finish. This is excellent. Drink now2017. Bodega Alamos is owned by the
Catena family and their fruit is sourced from in and around the Uco Valley in order to exploit the heterogeneous
terroirs. The winemaker is Felipe Stahlschmidt, who after passing his winemaking degree at Universidad Nacional
de Cuyo, trained under Alejandro Vigil. Readers should note that I have treated Alamos Wines as a separate
producer, even though it comes under the umbrella of the Catena family, because of the independence that is given
to the winemakers.
B
Bodega Catena Zapata | Mendoza Cabernet Sauvignon Susana Balbo
31 Oct 2012
90/100
2004
UWS: 90/100
Dark and juicy, with lots of fig, blackberry and currant fruit layered with dark licorice, spice cake and cocoa notes.
The long, solid finish has nice drive. Drink now through 2009. 11,000 cases imported. JM
B
Bodega Catena Zapata | Uco Valley Malbec
2011
UWS: 91/100
The 2011 Catena Malbec is produced with fruit grown in Lunlunta, Agrelo and Gualtallary fermented together with
a little bit of Viognier from high altitude, which according to winemaker Alejandro Vigil had an amazing eight
grams of acidity which contributed a lot of freshness to the blend. 30% of bunches fermented without destemming
and as is common in the top Catena wines, these grapes from four different regions were harvested at three different
points in time in search of diversity. This is very dark cherrycolored and has strong aromas of ripe plums, peach
and apricot with some notes of orange rind. Mediumbodied with velvety, silky tannins, it is a good representation of
Malbec in Mendoza. It is approachable now, but it should be even better in one year. Drink 20152018. Catena is
almost equivalent to Argentine quality wine, as Nicolas Catena was the true pioneer and is still the most important
wine personality in Argentina. Bodega Catena Zapata has been owned by the Catena family since 1902. Of course I
paid a lot of attention to their wines and I tasted with Laura Catena and winemaker Alejandro Vigil both in Madrid
and Mendoza, visited their vineyards in Gualtallary and jumped into different pits in the soil to see the differences in
terroir. I was able to discuss multiple topics (including Sherry wine, as it seems to be one of his passions) with
Nicolas Catena, which was a real pleasure. They are so forward thinking and smart as they are still at the head of
quality wines in the country, doing amazing research and never resting on their laurels. Alejandro Vigil is one of the
most passionate and intuitive winemakers on Earth, and he's also completely crazy about wine, always wanting to
experiment, to question the established ideas and to learn more. We need more of these champions in the wine
world. The result can be no other than superb wines, with some groundbreaking whites that could compete with the
finest white Burgundies (I'd love to do a blind tasting one day) and the most amazing Malbecs you can think of, and
everything in between. To explain some of the many things I saw and learned from them, one of the main objectives
is to improve the knowledge of their vineyards, to break the macrounits of terroir into smaller parts, smaller zones,
and even vineyards, or even parts of vineyards.
This allows
them to do different viticulture, watering, harvesting and
Published
by 90pluswines.com
192
vinification even to a few rows of vines. For one given vineyard they might have 200 different lots, which is not a
wine personality in Argentina. Bodega Catena Zapata has been owned by the Catena family since 1902. Of course I
paid a lot of attention to their wines and I tasted with Laura Catena and winemaker Alejandro Vigil both in Madrid
and Mendoza, visited their vineyards in Gualtallary and jumped into different pits in the soil to see the differences in
terroir. I was able to discuss multiple topics (including Sherry wine, as it seems to be one of his passions) with
Nicolas Catena, which was a real pleasure. They are so forward thinking and smart as they are still at the head of
quality wines in the country, doing amazing research and never resting on their laurels. Alejandro Vigil is one of the
most passionate and intuitive winemakers on Earth, and he's also completely crazy about wine, always wanting to
experiment, to question the established ideas and to learn more. We need more of these champions in the wine
world. The result can be no other than superb wines, with some groundbreaking whites that could compete with the
finest white Burgundies (I'd love to do a blind tasting one day) and the most amazing Malbecs you can think of, and
everything in between. To explain some of the many things I saw and learned from them, one of the main objectives
is to improve the knowledge of their vineyards, to break the macrounits of terroir into smaller parts, smaller zones,
and even vineyards, or even parts of vineyards. This allows them to do different viticulture, watering, harvesting and
vinification even to a few rows of vines. For one given vineyard they might have 200 different lots, which is not a
picture of the terroir, but a FILM of the terroir, which gives the wines enormous complexity and for them it creates
an even higher complexity, for the blends! The result of this way of working is hundreds (or was it thousands? I think
it was.) of microvinifications in every vintage. The amazing blending skills cannot then be forgotten. Nicolas Catena
has three offspring: Laura, Ernesto and Adrianna. Laura is a doctor in San Francisco but is already at the helm of
Red Wines Argentina
30 Apr 2014
91/100
A dark and jammy red, with enough acidity to propel the roasted plum and wild berry compote notes. Layers of
smoke, toasted spice and espresso emerge on the rich finish. Drink now through 2016. NW
B
Bodega Fabre Montmayou | Lujan de Cuyo Malbec
2007
UWS: 90/100
The 2007 Grand Vin Malbec contains 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Merlot aged for 16 months in French oak. A
glasscoating opaque purple color, it has an alluring bouquet of smoke, toasty oak, incense, black cherry, and plum.
Suppletextured, ripe, and concentrated, it has layers of sweet black fruit, ripe tannin, and excellent balance. Drink
this fullflavored effort from 2011 to 2022. Sussex Wine Merchants, Mooretown, NJ; tel. (856) 6089644
B
Bodega Norton | Malbec Mendoza
2011
UWS: 92/100
Toasty yet ripe, showing ample mesquite and mocha notes to the raspberry ganache and rich plum fruit. Silky
tannins line the dark, creamtinged finish. Drink now through 2018. NW
B
Bodega Renacer | Lujan de Cuyo Cheval des Andes
2009
UWS: 91/100
Wellfocused, with dark plum and blackberry reduction notes balanced against fresh acidity, toasty oak and
moderate structure. The finish is long, with hints of smoke and baking spices. Malbec. Drink now through 2016.
NW
B
Bodega Renacer | Mendoza Malbec Reserva Punto Final
31 Jul 2013
91/100
2006
UWS: 90/100
The Reserva spends 10 months in french oak barriques and is harvested at 2.3 tons per acre (about 30 percent less
than the nonreserva). Much more dark berry fruit on the nose with a slightly smokey, black currant/fig character.
Powerful in the mouth, lots of tannins to work around but the fruit is up to the task. Definately fullbodied and
young, this absolutely needs either protein rich dishes or a few years to show at its peak. Keep a few in the cellar for
up to 5 years and this will be a pleasant surprise.
28 Jan 2012
90/100
Potent and black, with inky, minty aromas that suggest asphalt, tobacco and blackberry. The palate is gritty and
seriously concentrated, with dark, oakdriven fruit that carries a tight, lemony personality. Licorice, toast and other
blackish notes bring it home. Ripe but can still age for another 5+ years.
The 2006 Punto Final Reserva contains 99% Malbec and 1% Cabernet Franc aged for 10 months in French oak. It,
too, was sourced from vineyards over 50 years of age but with lower yields. Opaque purplecolored, it offers up a
193
fragrant bouquet of cedar, scorched earth, lavender, and black cherry. Layered, dense, and concentrated, it has tons
of savory black fruit, spice notes, and excellent balance. This lengthy effort can be enjoyed now but will evolve in the
Powerful in the mouth, lots of tannins to work around but the fruit is up to the task. Definately fullbodied and
young, this absolutely needs either protein rich dishes or a few years to show at its peak. Keep a few in the cellar for
up to 5 years and this will be a pleasant surprise.
90/100
28 Jan 2012
Potent and black, with inky, minty aromas that suggest asphalt, tobacco and blackberry. The palate is gritty and
seriously concentrated, with dark, oakdriven fruit that carries a tight, lemony personality. Licorice, toast and other
blackish notes bring it home. Ripe but can still age for another 5+ years.
Red Wines Argentina
The 2006 Punto Final Reserva contains 99% Malbec and 1% Cabernet Franc aged for 10 months in French oak. It,
too, was sourced from vineyards over 50 years of age but with lower yields. Opaque purplecolored, it offers up a
fragrant bouquet of cedar, scorched earth, lavender, and black cherry. Layered, dense, and concentrated, it has tons
of savory black fruit, spice notes, and excellent balance. This lengthy effort can be enjoyed now but will evolve in the
bottle for 23 years. .
A dark, tarry style, with crushed plum, fig and hoisin sauce flavors backed by an invigorating licorice snap note on
the ripe, muscular finish. Powerful but driven, this brings you back for more. Drink now through 2012. 10,000 cases
made. JM
Malbec Argentina. #1; COLORvery dark purple; NOSEcedar; blueberry; some red fruit as well; a little artificial
like Fun Dip candy; a little leather action; PALATEa lot of intense purple fruit (like a purple ice pop); it's easy
drinking, but kind of disappears on the finish; this is like drinking Grape Ape; very new world; some subtle
earthiness and bark on the backend which I like; serviceable; WS91; GV88
88/100
16 Jun 2009
This comes across as a textbook malbec in its aromas of violets and sour cherries. With air, the wine takes on notes
of leather and sweet spices that lend complexity and density. The palate is tense, with the grip for a ribeye.
B
Bodegas & Vinedos Luis Segundo Correas | Malbec Mendoza
91/100
01 Jun 2009
2005
UWS: 90/100
The 2005 Luis Segundo Malbec spent 18 months in French oak. Medium ruby red in color, it exhibits aromas of
cherry blossom, cinnamon, earth notes, black cherry, and black raspberry. On the palate it displays a racy style,
some elegance, a silky texture, and intense fruit flavors. It is likely to evolve for 23 years but can be approached
now.
B
Bodegas & Vinedos Trivento | Mendoza Malbec Golden Reserve
2008
UWS: 91/100
The 2008 Golden Reserve Malbec is intense on the nose, with roiling blackberry, raspberry leaf, Provencal herbs
joined by a tang of marmalade that all blossom with aeration. The palate is fullbodied with succulent red cherries,
strawberry and blood orange. The definition is outstanding from start to finish, culminating in a refined but intense,
opulent finish. Magnificent! Drink 20132020+ The quartet of wines that I tasted from Trivento demonstrated two
things. Firstly, they are comparatively expensive. Indeed, their flagship wine seems intent on being Argentina's
costliest wine at a cool suggested retail price of $350 per bottle. Not cheap. Secondly, the wines are extremely well
crafted, and my fears that they would be blockbuster, pretentious wines were unfounded. On the contrary, I found
them beautifully balanced, refined and focused: exemplifying fruit intensity rather than power. Whether they can
compete with similar priced wines from California or Bordeaux is another matter.
31 Oct 2012
94/100
The 2008 Golden Reserve Malbec spent 12 months in French oak. Mouthfilling, dense, and structured, this lengthy,
succulent effort has some tannin to resolve. Give it another 23 years of cellaring and drink it from 2013 to 2020. It
is an excellent value.
eRobertParker.com © (WA), Jay Miller 31 Dec 2011 90+/100
Dark, ripe and toasty, with notes of smoke and spice framing the ripe blackberry and damson plum notes that push
through the finish, which lingers with hints of smoke and spice. Drink now. NW
100% Malbec, aged in oak for 12 months. Dark crimson. A titillating, melded nose. Fresh start. Very appetising.
Racy, lip smacking.
14 Sep 2011
16,5/20
194
succulent effort has some tannin to resolve. Give it another 23 years of cellaring and drink it from 2013 to 2020. It
is an excellent value.
Dark, ripe and toasty, with notes of smoke and spice framing the ripe blackberry and damson plum notes that push
through the finish, which lingers with hints of smoke and spice. Drink now. NW
Red Wines Argentina
100% Malbec, aged in oak for 12 months. Dark crimson. A titillating, melded nose. Fresh start. Very appetising.
Racy, lip smacking.
B
14 Sep 2011
Bodegas Bodegas y Vinedos Pascual Toso | Malbec Mendoza
16,5/20
2004
UWS: 90/100
B
Bodegas Trapiche | Bonarda Mendoza Broquel
28 Jan 2012
90/100
2008
UWS: 90/100
A simple bonarda with deliciously cool blackberry flavor, this wine has soft fruit lightly seasoned with black pepper
and tense tannins that make it a match for duck.
01 Feb 2011
89/100
Round, thick and pulsing, but not too hard, angular or tannic. The nose brings richness, smoke and black fruits,
while the palate is juicy, focused and forward, with blackfruit flavor galore and a slight creamy character. Drying
and toasty on the finish, with snappy acidity through the final drop.
B
Bodegas Trapiche | Mendoza Malbec Broquel
2011
UWS: 90/100
Layers of mulled spice, tar and incense drive this brooding red, with a tight core of cassis and plum skin. The finish
ends with a creamtinged aftertaste of fruit and mocha. Drink now through 2018. NW
B
Crios de Susana Balbo | Mendoza Syrah Bonarda
2007
UWS: 90/100
The 2007 Syrah (50%)Bonarda (50%) which spent 9 months in French and American oak before bottling without
fining or filtration (as is the case for all 3 of the red wines). Dark rubycolored, it sports an aromatic array of cedar,
cinnamon, violets, blueberry, and plum. Mediumbodied, spicy, layered, and wellbalanced, this flavorful effort will
drink well over the next 4 years.
Cr
Don Miguel Gascon | Malbec Mendoza
2003
UWS: 91/100
Anyone looking for a whole lot of wine for not too much cash will be pleased with this blend, named for former
Argentinean president Juan Perón, husband of Evita. Back to the wine: it's rich, heady and borderline opulent, with
ripe tannins, plumpness and hedonistic fruit. Incorporates 10% Cabernet and 5% Syrah. Imported by Pasternak
Wine Imports.
D
Familia Zuccardi | Cabernet Sauvignon Mendoza Q
01 Jun 2006
91/100
2006
UWS: 90/100
This is a nicely evolved, more old world style Malbec, with spicy, earthy flavours, ripe but not jammy fruit and great
acidtannin balance. A fine, mature wine with a good deal of class; ready to drink.
28 Jan 2012
89/100
195
The 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Q spent 12Published
monthsbyin90pluswines.com
new French oak. Purplecolored, it exhibits an excellent
perfume of damp earth, mineral, tobacco, spice box, and black currant. Mediumbodied, it has layered flavors,
Red Wines Argentina
UWS: 90/100
This is a nicely evolved, more old world style Malbec, with spicy, earthy flavours, ripe but not jammy fruit and great
acidtannin balance. A fine, mature wine with a good deal of class; ready to drink.
28 Jan 2012
89/100
The 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Q spent 12 months in new French oak. Purplecolored, it exhibits an excellent
perfume of damp earth, mineral, tobacco, spice box, and black currant. Mediumbodied, it has layered flavors,
plenty of succulence, good balance, and a lengthy finish. Give it 23 years of additional bottle age and drink it from
2011 to 2018.
Fa
Familia Zuccardi | Mendoza Malbec Q
2008
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
25 Apr 2012
3/5
Opaque purple; exotic spices, hint of balsamic, blueberry, and black cherry, round, satisfying.
Fa
Familia Zuccardi | Serie A Malbec
2011
UWS: 90/100
The 2011 Serie A Malbec from La Consulta, Vista Flores and Agrelo is 70% aged in barrel. It is showing just a little
overripeness on the nose, with saturated red cherry fruit laced with fresh fig and prune. The palate is ripe and
chewy with licorice and graphiteinfused black fruit and a long, powerful finish that is both silky and refined. The
quality and bravura of the palate makes you forgive the overenthusiasm on the nose. Drink now2018. Familia
Zuccardi were one of the pioneers in terms of pursuing quality when others were satisfied with quantity and little
else. Alberto Zuccardi began planting in Maipu in 1963 and five years later constructed their winery. Their son,
Jose, joined in 1976 and under his direction throughout the 1980s and 1990s, they made a strategic decision to focus
on high quality wines. They currently own 37 hectares in La Consulta, 55 hectares in Vista Flores, 90 hectares in
Altamira, 180 hectares in Maipu and 475 hectares in Santa Rosa. There is an emphasis upon exploring their terroirs
at Zuccardi, and Alberto's youngest son, Miguel, was happy to leap into a few pits to demonstrate the differences
between several soil profiles. The wines themselves are impressive, both in terms of value at the bottom end and
quality at the top. As they peel away and separate different terroirs in the future, they should be able to offer an ever
more interesting portfolio.
Fa
31 Oct 2012
Familia Zuccardi | Tempranillo Mendoza Q
90/100
2006
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
15 Jul 2012
3/5
The 2006 Tempranillo Q was sourced from an estate vineyard planted in 1974. Purplecolored, it displays an
enticing bouquet of mineral, blackberry, pepper, and espresso. Medium to fullbodied, on the palate it is dense,
nicely endowed with spicy, savory fruit, and impeccably balanced. It will evolve for 23 years and will offer prime
drinking from 2011 to 2018.
Fa
Finca Decero | Mendoza Malbec Remolinos Vineyard
2011
UWS: 90/100
The 2011 Remolinos Vineyard Decero Malbec is young and fruity, with harmony, good acidity, great balance and
purity. Clean, long, and wellproportioned with perfectly ripe fruit, it is a delicious wine at a great price. Drink 2014
2019. My first contact with a winery from Argentina after being assigned to review the wines from the country was
with Finca Decero, and it was a very good start indeed. I met up with Juan E Marco the winery's general manager
to have a chat and taste some wines. Decero was created from zero (that's what the name means) in 2000 by Swiss
businessman Thomas Schmidheiny who has projects in Napa and Australia and a small project in Switzerland, but
wine is not his main business. That year he bought the land, and they started planting in 2001 at a density around
5,000 plants per hectare, so they really started
frombyscratch.
They did some tests in 2004 and 2005 and the first
Published
90pluswines.com
196
commercial vintage was 2006. They only use their own grapes, so all their wines could be considered single
UWS: 90/100
The 2011 Remolinos Vineyard Decero Malbec is young and fruity, with harmony, good acidity, great balance and
purity. Clean, long, and wellproportioned with perfectly ripe fruit, it is a delicious wine at a great price. Drink 2014
2019. My first contact with a winery from Argentina after being assigned to review the wines from the country was
with Finca Decero, and it was a very good start indeed. I met up with Juan E Marco the winery's general manager
to have a chat and taste some wines. Decero was created from zero (that's what the name means) in 2000 by Swiss
businessman Thomas Schmidheiny who has projects in Napa and Australia and a small project in Switzerland, but
wine is not his main business. That year he bought the land, and they started planting in 2001 at a density around
5,000 plants per hectare, so they really started from scratch. They did some tests in 2004 and 2005 and the first
commercial vintage was 2006. They only use their own grapes, so all their wines could be considered single
vineyard. They call it Remolino which means small swirl of wind, a twister that is common on this Agrelo property at
1,050 meters above sea level, where there are also big temperature differences between day and night. Only red
wines are produced here, wines with power and elegance and a classical proportion and harmony.
Red Wines Argentina
Fi
30 Apr 2014
Finca Flichman | Mendoza Malbec Reserva
90/100
2011
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
10 Oct 2012
3/5
Presented without the makeup of barrique aging nor the excesses of hyperripeness, this malbec has a natural ease,
with nuanced red fruit flavors and floral scents. It's easy to drink on its own. Evaton, Stamford, CT
Fi
01 Jun 2012
La Posta del Vinatero | Mendoza Malbec Pizzella Family Vineyard
90/100
2007
UWS: 90/100
Bright rubyred. Dark raspberry, bitter chocolate and spice aromas lifted by a floral element. Densely packed and
spicy, with a finegrained texture and a juicy quality to the fruit. The floral element carries through in the mouth,
giving this wine a light touch. The finish shows firm tannic support. This is excellent value.
01 Jan 2009
89/100
Ripe and flashy, with a showy layer of mocha leading the way for spice cake, raspberry and boysenberry fruit
flavors laid over a lush, creamy finish. Dense but lithe, with the fruit echoing through the finish. Drink now through
2010. 7,000 cases made. JM
La
Maipe | Lujan de Cuyo Malbec
2008
UWS: 90/100
The 2008 Malbec is a glasscoating purple color with a striking perfume of violets, black cherry, and black
raspberry. Exhibiting surprising complexity for its price category, the wine has gobs of fruit, savory flavors, and
excellent depth and length. It is an outstanding value for drinking over the next 34 years. Alberto Antonini (think
Altos Las Hormigas) is a consultant at Maipe which in and of itself is an indicator that the winery is focused on
quality.
M
Vila | Malbec Mendoza
2006
UWS: 90/100
Vi
Vina Cobos | Mendoza Malbec Felino
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2009
UWS: 90/100
This wine continues to improve as winemaker Paul Hobbs and company dial back the cream and oak and up the
minerality and terroir. Look for black cherry and poultry spice aromas in a supple red with fine acidity. The palate
is a savoury mix of plum jam, liquorice and roasted mushroom flavours. The finish is warm, fresh and suave, with
some fruit poking through. Fine value and a benchmark for quality in this price range.
Published by 90pluswines.comWine Access © (WACA) 28 Jan 2012 89/100
197
Red Wines Argentina
UWS: 90/100
This wine continues to improve as winemaker Paul Hobbs and company dial back the cream and oak and up the
minerality and terroir. Look for black cherry and poultry spice aromas in a supple red with fine acidity. The palate
is a savoury mix of plum jam, liquorice and roasted mushroom flavours. The finish is warm, fresh and suave, with
some fruit poking through. Fine value and a benchmark for quality in this price range.
28 Jan 2012
89/100
28 Jan 2012
89/100
This selection of malbec comes from several mountain zones in Mendoza between altitudes of 2,300 and 3,800 feet.
The blend is lively and delicious, with seductively ripe raspberry flavors that hold their freshness within the creamy
texture. An elegant malbec.
01 Feb 2011
92/100
Potent Malbec with aromas of leather, bacon, blackberry and smoke. It's thick and dense, but well balanced, with
flavors of blackberry, cola, pepper and nutmeg. More smooth and easy than complex, with a long, creamy, sweet
finish that cements the wine's character. Probably the best Felino Malbec to date, and a good value at 20 bucks.
198
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Rio Negro
Vi
Bodegas de Patagonia Noemia | Rio Negro Valley A Lisa
2009
UWS: 90/100
A gentle and juicy malbec, this is soft with deep red fruit flavors and a creamy, enveloping texture. Lisa is 90 percent
malbec, onethird of it estate grown. Vias Imports, NY
01 Feb 2012
90/100
Medium rubyred. Black cherry, currant, plum and chocolate on the slightly grapey nose. Sweet, plush and seamless,
with a suave texture to the black fruit, violet and chocolate flavors. Boasts lovely volume and sweetness, and finishes
with ripe, sweet, edgefree tannins that will not get in the way of the wine's early appeal.
01 Jan 2011
90/100
A mellow, pure Malbec, with soft, subtle aromas of graham cracker, licorice, blueberry and chocolate. The palate
has a welcome freshness that melds acidity and ripe fruit into a correct whole, and the flavors of blackberry, spice,
coffee and chocolate work great together. Just right for the money, with blackness, richness and balance. contains
90% Malbec with 9% Merlot and a drop of Petit Verdot.
Dark and ripe, but fresh and racy, with a streak of damson plum moving through the blackberry and boysenberry
fruit, backed by lingering sweet spice, tobacco and graphite notes on the finish. Malbec, Merlot and Petit Verdot.
Drink now through 2012. 3,330 cases made. JM
15 Oct 2010
90/100
199
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New South Wales
B
Barwang | Cabernet Sauvignon New South Wales
2008
UWS: 90/100
Deep crimson; an excellent cabernet from the first whiff through to the finish and aftertaste, blackcurrant fruit the
vehicle for the adornment of oak and gentle extract of tannins. Seriously underpriced. Screwcap.
94/100
28 Apr 2011
The 2008 Hilltops Cabernet Sauvignon has a very deep garnet black color and aromas of eucalyptus, warm cassis,
cedar, cloves and black pepper. Medium to full body, mediumhigh acid and mediumfine grained tannins are all in
balance and to the wine's credit, though the mid palate is a little hollow and the medium to long finish a bit oaky.
Drink now to 2015. Barwang does not have a USA importer. www.mcwilliams.com.au
85/100
30 Apr 2010
The 2008 Hilltops Cabernet Sauvignon has a very deep garnet black color and aromas of eucalyptus, warm cassis,
cedar, cloves and black pepper. Medium to full body, mediumhigh acid and mediumfine grained tannins are all in
balance and to the wine's credit, though the mid palate is a little hollow and the medium to long finish a bit oaky.
Ba
85/100
30 Apr 2010
Hope Estate | Shiraz Hunter Valley
2005
UWS: 90/100
Flush with ripe blackcurrant plum fruit; a generous splash of oak and tannins in support; impressive quality and
price. Cork.
93/100
28 Apr 2011
Jam, bramble and clay aromas usher in fresh grape, blackberry and black pepper flavors. Medium bodied, closing
with spicy purple fruit. Still very young when evaluated; by the time it hits stores this summer, this should be ready
to drink.
H
87/100
01 Jun 2006
Mount Pleasant | Shiraz Hunter Valley
1999
UWS: 91/100
M
28 Apr 2011
Mount Pleasant | Shiraz Hunter Valley
16,5/20
2006
UWS: 91/100
Elegant, soft and rustic, with spicy flavours of dark plums, chocolate and sweet leather given a reserved treatment in
older, less intrusive oak and supported by very fine, supple and silky tannins. It's medium to full in weight, and is
ready to enjoy.o16.4/88, YTD 20082011)
M
02 Apr 2008
Wyndham Estate | Cabernet-Merlot Hunter Valley Bin 888
16,4/20
1988
UWS: 92/100
04 Oct 2012
16,799999/20
200
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W
UWS: 92/100
04 Oct 2012
Wyndham Estate | Cabernet-Merlot Hunter Valley Bin 888
16,799999/20
1992
UWS: 92/100
W
04 Oct 2012
Wyndham Estate | Shiraz Hunter Valley Bin 555
16,799999/20
2008
UWS: 91/100
Bright hue; fruit and mocha oak on the bouquet come through well on the mediumbodied palate that has surprising
structure, length, fruit, oak and tannins very well balanced. Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
91/100
201
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Other
W
Barwang | Shiraz Australia
2008
UWS: 90/100
Deep crimson; continues the trend for Barwang shiraz of moving from mediumbodied towards fullbodied; has
blackberry fruit in vanillan oak on bouquet and palate alike, the tannins soft but complete. Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
93/100
The 2008 Hilltops Shiraz has a very deep garnetpurple color. It provides intense warm cassis, blackberry, anise and
cinnamon notes on the nose with a full body, medium to high acid and medium level of grainy tannins. Long finish.
Drink now to 2016. Barwang does not have a USA importer.
30 Apr 2010
86/100
The 2008 Hilltops Shiraz has a very deep garnetpurple color. It provides intense warm cassis, blackberry, anise and
cinnamon notes on the nose with a full body, medium to high acid and medium level of grainy tannins. Long finish.
Ba
30 Apr 2010
Climbing | Shiraz Orange
86/100
2003
UWS: 92/100
A juicy, smooth and polished shiraz from a new Orange region label. Earthy, dusty and cigarboxy aromas of spicy
cassis, red berries and plums precede a firm but finegrained palate. Its generous jujubelike berry flavours are
handsomely offset by creamy oak. oOrange, $16 retail approx., 16.8, 89, 20052008)
Cl
08 Oct 2004
16,799999/20
2006
UWS: 93/100
An approachable, spicy and peppery shiraz whose lingering, finegrained expression of juicy, souredged and dark
fruited shiraz is backed by fine, pliant looseknit tannins and tightly knit with vanilla/dark chocolate oak. Its
ethereal, floral perfume is backed by suggestions of clove, cinnamon and nutmeg, while its elegant, savoury palate
finishes with lingering dark fruits and tight acids. o17.3/90, YTD 20082011+)
Cl
30 Jun 2008
17,299999/20
2007
UWS: 95/100
Backed by a hint of mint and lifted by a scent of violets, its vibrant aromas of dark plums, berries and cassis are
tightly knit with handsome meaty, mochalike influences of roasted oak. It's long and juicy, with a seamless marriage
between brightly lit small berry and plum flavours, charcuterie and mocha undertones and very gentle, soft and
pliant tannins. Its finishes long and spicy, savoury and meaty, with deliciously persistent fruit.o18.0/93, YTD 2012
2015)
06 Apr 2009
18/20
202
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South Australia
Cl
Australian Domaine Wines | Barossa Valley Shiraz Alliance
2004
UWS: 92/100
Full purplered; a fullbodied, classic regional mix of dark chocolate, blackberry, notes of licorice and ripe spice;
fine tannins and good length; handles the alcohol quite well. Extraordinary value. Cork.
28 Apr 2011
94/100
Focused, generous and appealing for its licoricescented blueberry, plum and vanilla flavors, hinting at dried
tomato as the finish lingers. Needs time to soften. Best after 2008. 4,000 cases made. HS
A
Balnaves of Coonawarra | The Blend Coonawarra
2002
UWS: 90/100
Elegant, light to mediumbodied wine; attractive mix of red and black fruits; good length.
28 Apr 2011
91/100
Quite robust for a Coonawarra red, but with minty and menthol characters more reminiscent of central Victoria, this
lightly oaked cabernet blend has an aroma of intense cassis and plum qualities over herbal undertones. Its slightly
metallic palate has texture and depth, and lingering flavours of blackberries, plums and cranberries. oCoonawarra,
$22 retail, approx., 15.7/86, drink 20042007+)
Jeremy Oliver © (JO) 24 Aug 2005 15,7/20
Ba
Betts & Scholl | Barossa Valley Grenache The Chronique
2008
UWS: 92/100
Supple and distinctive for its rhubarb and raspberry flavors, riding easily on a polished frame and singing through
the finetextured finish. Drink now through 2012. HS
Be
30 Apr 2011
Bleasdale Winery | Langhorne Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Mulberry Tree
92/100
2002
UWS: 90/100
Elegant mediumbodied wine, with gently sweet fruit; pleasing structure and tannins.
28 Apr 2011
91/100
The fresh red and black currant flavors keep this wine firm and crisply detailed. There's a green herb edge to the
tannins, giving them a little lift, as parsley would lift the flavor of a steak.
01 Feb 2006
90/100
The 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Mulberry Tree (100% Cabernet aged in 300 liter neutral French and American oak
hogsheads) is a terrific value. Its dark ruby/purple color is followed by rich aromas of black fruits, cedar, licorice,
toast, and background underbrush. Mediumbodied, with good density, soft tannin, and a plump, corpulent finish, it
should be drunk over the next 24 years.
31 Oct 2004
89/100
Fractionally sappy and underripe, with a delicate minty fragrance of cassis and raspberries over light vanilla oak.
Smooth and supple, its delicate, pristine and polished palate of sweet small berries finishes with minty notes and a
slightly metallic grip. oLanghorne Creek, 16.2, 20102014)
01 Jul 2004
16,200001/20
Rubyred. Lively aromas of black raspberry, mulberry, chocolate and mint. Juicy, nicely delineated flavors of dark
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203
berries, chocolate and mint. Betrays a slightPublished
green edge
but offers good intensity and a supple texture. Finishes with
a firm acid/tannin spine and good length.
The 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Mulberry Tree (100% Cabernet aged in 300 liter neutral French and American oak
hogsheads) is a terrific value. Its dark ruby/purple color is followed by rich aromas of black fruits, cedar, licorice,
toast, and background underbrush. Mediumbodied, with good density, soft tannin, and a plump, corpulent finish, it
should be drunk over the next 24 years.
Red Wines Australia
31 Oct 2004
89/100
Fractionally sappy and underripe, with a delicate minty fragrance of cassis and raspberries over light vanilla oak.
Smooth and supple, its delicate, pristine and polished palate of sweet small berries finishes with minty notes and a
slightly metallic grip. oLanghorne Creek, 16.2, 20102014)
01 Jul 2004
16,200001/20
Rubyred. Lively aromas of black raspberry, mulberry, chocolate and mint. Juicy, nicely delineated flavors of dark
berries, chocolate and mint. Betrays a slight green edge but offers good intensity and a supple texture. Finishes with
a firm acid/tannin spine and good length.
Bl
Charles Cimicky | Barossa Valley Shiraz Trumps
01 Jul 2004
88/100
2007
UWS: 90/100
Rich and ripe (but not overripe) plum and blackberry fruit, with a luscious lick of dark chocolate and a dash of oak,
make this a mustdrink (rather than sip) style. Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
92/100
(a 55/45 blend) Inky ruby. More expressive than the 2008, showing a complex bouquet of dark berries, potpourri
and Indian spices, with a hint of smokiness. Fleshy, velvety blackberry and boysenberry flavors are perked up by a
hint of cracked pepper. Finishes smooth and sweet, with excellent clarity and spicy persistence.
01 Jul 2010
90/100
The purplecolored 2007 Trumps Grenache (55%)Shiraz (45%) was sourced from vines ranging in age from 5580
years and was aged for 15 months in 2 year old French barrels. It offers up an alluring bouquet of cedar, scorched
earth, black cherry, and blueberry. Supple, ripe, and easygoing on the palate, this forward, friendly effort can be
enjoyed over the next 6 years.
Soft and generous, this glows with currant, plum and berry fruit at the core, remaining light on its feet. The leafy
finish sweeps along. Drink now through 2012. 1,000 cases made. HS
15 Oct 2009
89/100
Impressively cool and longlasting for this drought vintage, this wine seems to gain its tannic structure from the ripe,
purpleblack skin of the grapes rather than oak, which is there in the smoky scent and the smoothness of the texture.
The tannin is refined and layered into the fruit, with the taste of freshpicked wild blueberries.
C
01 Oct 2009
92/100
01 Jul 2009
89/100
Charles Cimicky | Barossa Valley Shiraz Trumps
2008
UWS: 90/100
A strong effort from Cimicky, the 2008 Trumps displays ample complexity in its hints of chocolate, coffee, cedar,
blueberries and baking spices, then puts all of that in a soft, creamy, mouthfilling package tinged with licorice on the
finish. Drink now.
01 Jul 2011
90/100
Vivid ruby. Musky, vibrant aromas of black raspberry, sassafras and dried violet. Sweet, juicy and rich, with a
penetrating quality and very good grip to the juicy dark berry and floral pastille flavors. Finishes with seductive
aromatic perfume and slightly firm tannins.
01 Jul 2010
89/100
Clear, focused and detailed, delivering a juicy mouthful of plum, berry and tobacco flavors, hinting at clove and
nutmeg as the finish lingers effortlessly. Drink now through 2018. 5,000 cases made. HS
30 Jun 2010
90/100
The 2008 Trumps Shiraz was aged in predominantly new American oak for 17 months. A glasscoating purple color,
it displays a smoky, toasty, spicy nose leading to a fruitfilled, succulent Shiraz with a bit of underlying structure.
This lengthy effort will evolve for 12 years but can be enjoyed now and over the next 68 years.
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C
Charles Melton | Grenache Barossa Valley
1998
UWS: 91/100
04 Oct 2012
16,6/20
The dense rubycolored 1998 Grenache exhibits a sweet nose of kirsch liqueur, pepper, spice, and earth. Full
bodied, fleshy, and rich, with sweet fruit and copious glycerin, this southern Rhonelike offering can be drunk now
and over the next 78 years. A Ted Schrauth Selection, Old Vines Australia, imported by Epic Wines, Santa Cruz,
CA; tel. (831) 6899080, and C. Daniele, New York, NY; tel. (212) 5343421
C
90/100
30 Jun 2001
Charles Melton | Grenache Barossa Valley
1999
UWS: 91/100
04 Oct 2012
16,6/20
The explosively fruity 1999 Grenache displays considerable body and depth. Its dark ruby color is followed by
copious quantities of black cherry fruit, loads of glycerin, and a fullbodied, lush personality. Enjoy it now and over
the next 56 years.
C
90/100
31 Oct 2002
Chris Ringland Vintners | Barossa Valley Shiraz 3 Rings
2007
UWS: 90/100
Fleshy, polished in texture and brimming with cherry, raspberry and fresh blackberry flavors, pointing inexorably
through the coffee and white pepper flavors on the long, expressive finish. Drink now through 2013. 12,000 cases
made. HS
C
90/100
31 Jul 2010
Chris Ringland Vintners | Shiraz Barossa Valley
1989
UWS: 95/100
Extremely sweet and ripe nose. Simpler and less demanding than the 1991. There is still life here, however. This is
obviously very well made, as it's 15 per cent alcohol but there is no obvious heat on the finish.
C
16 Jul 2005
18/20
1991
UWS: 96/100
This wine and the 1989 came from one vineyard in the hills behind Angaston that is now vinified by Rolf Binder, and
also from Malcolm Seppelt's vineyard at Marananga, from which Torbreck now draws fruit. Very complex, layered
flavours. Extremely ripe black fruit and some leathery notes too almost cheesy, it's so savoury. There is tar, licorice
and asphalt with a hint of Elastoplast. All surprisingly exciting!
C
16 Jul 2005
18,5/20
1995
UWS: 96/100
Since there are just under 50 cases of this wine for the world, the tasting notes are short as they are primarily of
academic interest. Onehundredyear old vines,
cropped
at one ton of fruit per acre produced a virtually perfect
Published
by 90pluswines.com
205
wine of splendid concentration, symmetry, and length (nearly a minute). An opaque black/purple color is followed by
Red Wines Australia
UWS: 96/100
Since there are just under 50 cases of this wine for the world, the tasting notes are short as they are primarily of
academic interest. Onehundredyear old vines, cropped at one ton of fruit per acre produced a virtually perfect
wine of splendid concentration, symmetry, and length (nearly a minute). An opaque black/purple color is followed by
staggering aromas of black fruits, truffles, sweet earth, and wood. With amazing viscosity, density, and
concentration that transcend any Shiraz I have ever tasted, this monumental wine represents an extraordinary
achievement. Its low acidity and phenomenal richness should offer early accessibility, but it promises to evolve for
two decades or more. This may be the greatest Shiraz produced in Australia. P.S. A bottle left open for four days
had no traces of fruit loss or oxidation.
C
Craneford Wines | Grenache Barossa Valley
29 Feb 2000
99/100
2000
UWS: 91/100
Made from 95year old vines, the 2000 Grenache is a hedonistic fruit bomb displaying notions of brandymacerated
cherries, huckleberries, and pepper. It boasts fabulous fruit on the attack, midpalate, and finish in addition to
admirable purity, and a layered, hedonistic personality. Drink this sexy Grenache over the next 34 years.
Cr
Craneford Wines | Grenache Barossa Valley
31 Oct 2002
91/100
2005
UWS: 90/100
Spicy, sweet berry aromas; more structure and less cosmetic flavours than most Barossa grenache; flavours head
more towards black fruits, with fine tannins. Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
90/100
Smooth, gentle and spicy. A plush mouthful of meaty black cherry, eucalyptus and cinnamon, lingering attractively.
Drink now through 2011. 1,200 cases made. HS
Cr
Earthworks | Shiraz Barossa Valley
2011
UWS: 90/100
Appealing and wellconstructed, this fresh red shows a deftness to the balance as its red berry, cinnamon and
espresso flavors combine seamlessly. Drink now through 2016. HS
Ea
Elderton | Shiraz Barossa Valley
2009
UWS: 90/100
Lithe and imposing, this is a tall wine, with refined texture and layered flavors of black cherry, blackberry, smoke
and coffee, which linger effectively on the polished finish. Drink now through 2019. HS
31 Jul 2012
91/100
Opaque ruby. Heady aromas of candied black and blue fruits, cola and vanilla, with cracked pepper and allspice
adding complexity. Deeply pitched blueberry and cherryvanilla flavors are knit seamlessly and pick up a candied
violet accent with air. Closes with powerful thrust and very good, sweet persistence.
01 Jul 2012
91/100
Deep garnetpurple in color, the 2009 Shiraz gives notes of ripe blackberries, dried mulberries, chocolate and spice
box with suggestions of eucalypt, anise and vanilla. Full bodied and generously fruited in the mouth, it gives a low to
medium level of soft tannins, crisp acid and a long finish. Drinking nicely now, it should keep to 2019.
29 Feb 2012
90/100
The 2009 Shiraz Elderton Estate is 100% from estate vines with an average age of 5060 years and is matured for
about 12 months in French (20%) and American
(80%)
oak puncheons, 20% new. Deep garnetpurple in color,206
it
Published
by 90pluswines.com
has pronounced blackberry and blueberry aromas with some licorice and Mediterranean herb notes plus subtle hints
Opaque ruby. Heady aromas of candied black and blue fruits, cola and vanilla, with cracked pepper and allspice
adding complexity. Deeply pitched blueberry and cherryvanilla flavors are knit seamlessly and pick up a candied
violet accent with air. Closes with powerful thrust and very good, sweet persistence.
Red Wines Australia
01 Jul 2012
91/100
Deep garnetpurple in color, the 2009 Shiraz gives notes of ripe blackberries, dried mulberries, chocolate and spice
box with suggestions of eucalypt, anise and vanilla. Full bodied and generously fruited in the mouth, it gives a low to
medium level of soft tannins, crisp acid and a long finish. Drinking nicely now, it should keep to 2019.
29 Feb 2012
90/100
The 2009 Shiraz Elderton Estate is 100% from estate vines with an average age of 5060 years and is matured for
about 12 months in French (20%) and American (80%) oak puncheons, 20% new. Deep garnetpurple in color, it
has pronounced blackberry and blueberry aromas with some licorice and Mediterranean herb notes plus subtle hints
of pepper, chocolate and cedar. Medium to fullbodied with mediumfirm finely grained tannins and high acid
supporting the generous, fleshy berry and spice fruit, it has a long, pure finish. Drinking now, it should cellar
through 2017. Although the property was purchased by their grandfather, brothers Al and Cameron Ashmead are
really the second generation of Ashmeads at the Elderton helm since it was their parents Neil and Lorraine that rose
to the challenge of developing this into one of the Barossa's top wineries. The first Ashmead vintage was in 1982.
The jewel here is the 8 acre estate vineyard planted in 1894 by Samuel Elderton Tolley (one of the largest 100+ year
old vineyards on the planet) that produces the Command Shiraz, with the 66 year old Ashmead Cabernet Sauvignon
vineyard also giving exceptional fruit. Since 2003 they've had their own winery and now produce around 4050000
cases per year with winemaker Richard Langford adeptly forging a range of predominately red wines from the good
value end right up to the soughtafter collectibles.
eRobertParker.com © (WA), Lisa PerrottiBrown 31 Dec 2010 90/100
Lovely nose of sweet herbs, berries, meat and spices follow through to a full body with plenty of ripe fruit. Reserved
and interesting. Nice easy, outstanding drink. Drink now.
El
20 Jun 2011
First Drop | Shiraz Barossa Mother's Milk
90/100
2008
UWS: 90/100
Healthy colour; in many ways traditional Barossa Valley style, with American/vanillan oak evident, the black fruits
on the mediumbodied palate quite soft; restrained alcohol and extract make for a wine of some elegance. Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
90/100
Matured in seasoned oak on yeast less for 15 months, the 2008 Mother's Milk Shiraz displays a very deep garnet
purple color. The nose begins with a whiff of rubbery reduction giving way to warm blackberry, kirsch, tar and
licorice aromas plus hints of nutmeg and coffee. Fullbodied with mediumfirm fine grained tannins, very high acid
and plenty of fleshy, spicedup fruit, the finish is long. Drink it now to 2015.
Matured in seasoned oak on yeast less for 15 months, the 2008 Mother's Milk Shiraz displays a very deep garnet
purple color. The nose begins with a whiff of rubbery reduction giving way to warm blackberry, kirsch, tar and
licorice aromas plus hints of nutmeg and coffee. Fullbodied with mediumfirm fine grained tannins, very high acid
and plenty of fleshy, spicedup fruit, the finish is long. Drink it now to 2015.
eRobertParker.com © (WA), Lisa PerrottiBrown 31 Dec 2010 90/100
Inky purple. Ripe blackberry and blueberry on the nose, with a smoky quality that expands with air. Lush dark berry
compote flavors provide excellent palate coverage and show a seamless, creamy texture. Finegrained tannins and a
slightly bitter note of black pepper give welcome grip to this fruitdriven wine.
01 Jul 2010
89/100
Taut, focused and refined, this offers lovely red berry and red plum fruit on a medium frame, shaded with
sandalwood and wax notes that add depth. The finish rolls easily past fine tannins. Drink now through 2013. 3,000
cases made. HS
Fi
Grant Burge Wines | Shiraz-Viognier Barossa Balthasar
2004
UWS: 92/100
Gr
04 Oct 2012
16,700001/20
2007
207
Red Wines Australia
UWS: 93/100
The colour is good, but doesn't have the extra brightness normally obtained with cofermentation of viognier; the
palate, however, does, the red and black fruit of the Eden Valley component with good life and finely textured
tannins in support. Custommade bottle means a cork closure. Cork.
Gr
28 Apr 2011
93/100
2009
UWS: 90/100
Deep garnet in color, the 2009 Balthasar Shiraz offers lovely, warm blackberry, creme de cassis, dried mulberries
and spice cake aromas with hints of leather. Fullbodied, rich and concentrated, the palate gives spicy fruit flavors,
crisp acid and medium to firm, rounded tannins through the long and very spicy finish. Drink it now to 2019+.
Meshach is the flagship wine named after Grant's grandfather. I was looking for a name that had something to do
with longevity, says Grant. My grandfather lived for 99 years and 9 months. The wine predominately comes from
Filsell vineyard's old vines that were planted in the 1920s. Made to last 20plus years, it sees 2022 months of oak
and is released with five years of age. Originally aged in American oak, Grant found it too sweet, so he changed to a
20% French oak and 80% American oak regime in 1998. The 1988 was the first vintage and in 2007 none was made.
Gr
28 Feb 2013
Henry's Drive | Padthaway Pillar Box Red
90/100
2004
UWS: 90/100
A fabulous value, this 20,000 case blend, assembled by renowned Barossa winemaker Chris Ringland, is composed
of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Shiraz, and 11% Merlot, primarily from young vines. Ringland has rarely worked
with such huge quantities, but he kept the wine in tank with a little exposure to American and French oak, bottled it
unfined and unfiltered, and finished it with a screw cap. It boasts luscious black currant fruit intermixed with smoke,
herbs, and cedar. Richly fruity, opulent, and medium to fullbodied, it is one of the great wine bargains of the world.
Consume it over the next 23 years.
H
31 Oct 2005
Hollick | Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon Limestone Coast
90/100
1998
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
17/20
Not fleshy, but with fine focus to the aromas of dried berry, raspberry liqueur and chocolate. Dry tannins on the
finish. Drink now through 2004. 1,000 cases made. BS
H
30 Jun 2000
86/100
2000
UWS: 93/100
Appealing in its fresh, lightly spicy and peppery expression of uncomplicated small berry fruit and sweet vanilla oak,
this supple, creamy and elegant young red finishes with flavour so long, with tannin so fine and smooth you can
really enjoy it now. o17.0, Drink 20012002)
Jeremy Oliver © (JO) 01 Dec 2001 17/20
H
2002
UWS: 90/100
Smooth and distinctive for the green olive and pickle barrel overtones to the blackberry and currant fruit, lingering
on the finegrained finish. Drink now through 2009. 9,000 cases made. HS
208
30 Sep 2006
88/100
Red Wines Australia
UWS: 90/100
Smooth and distinctive for the green olive and pickle barrel overtones to the blackberry and currant fruit, lingering
on the finegrained finish. Drink now through 2009. 9,000 cases made. HS
88/100
30 Sep 2006
This new blend contains a substantial proportion of Shiraz from Hollick's 1998 Wrattonbully plantings. Lively
crimson. Very mellow blend on the nose in fact it is quite difficult to detect the Shiraz element. Very slight hint of
mint on the nose and quite marked acidity on the palate. Dry tannins but a good core of fine, sophisticated fruit.
Very refreshing restaurant wine for early consumption.
05 Oct 2004
17/20
Meaty, spicy earthy aromas of restrained berry fruit and white pepper, with a fine, supple palate whose light
flavours berry/plum fruit and restrained cedary oak just finish a little thin and sappy. o15.3, 20042007)
H
03 Jul 2004
15,3/20
2004
UWS: 90/100
Pleasingly sweet and juicy, with a slightly peppery bouquet of small black and red berries, plums and
ashtray/cardboardlike oak. Fine and elegant, medium to full in weight and framed by fine, tightly knit tannins, its
vibrant small berry flavours and underlying savoury and herbal qualities are rather flattened by its unusual oak
treatment. oCoonawarra, Wrattonbully, 88, drink 20062009)
H
22 Jun 2006
15,9/20
2005
UWS: 92/100
Honest and flavoursome, with just a little style, it has a peppery, spicy aroma of cassis, blackberries and lightly
smoky vanilla oak lifted by a whiff of clove and cinnamon. Long, smooth and measured, its vibrant, juicy flavours of
dark cherries and plums are sweetly oaked, finishing with fine tannins and a hint of licorice. oCoonawarra, 16.9/89,
drink 20102013)
H
23 Oct 2007
J.J. Hahn | Barossa Valley Shiraz / Cabernet Reginald
16,9/20
2002
UWS: 90/100
(a 55%/45% blend) Deep, violettinged ruby. Highpitched nose features blackberry, anise, violet pastille and cigar
box aromas; one really gets a sense of both varieties here. Fullbodied and rich, with a velvety texture and sweet
flavors of blackberry, blackcurrant, candied licorice and vanilla. The building finish showcases the sexy oak and
sweet berry flavors. Made by Rolf Binder. . (WeygandtMetzler Importing, Unionville, PA)
J.J
01 Sep 2005
Jacob's Creek | Shiraz South Australia Reserve
90/100
2010
UWS: 90/100
You can thank the weather for this steal, a clean, fresh, savory shiraz that shows the quality of the vintage in its
fragrant fruit. This is not chippy and it?s not pushed, just a simple, lovely red?for $13.
01 Feb 2014
90/100
Fresh and refreshing, with pretty plum and floral flavors on a spacious frame, lingering without weightiness. Drink
now. HS
Plenty of American oak scent this could almost be Rioja! Juicy, doubtless artificial acidity, but it works, giving
some zip to the finish. Lots of makeup on this one, but not uglier for it. (RH)
30 Oct 2012
16/20
209
UWS: 90/100
You can thank the weather for this steal, a clean, fresh, savory shiraz that shows the quality of the vintage in its
fragrant fruit. This is not chippy and it?s not pushed, just a simple, lovely red?for $13.
Red Wines Australia
01 Feb 2014
90/100
Fresh and refreshing, with pretty plum and floral flavors on a spacious frame, lingering without weightiness. Drink
now. HS
Plenty of American oak scent this could almost be Rioja! Juicy, doubtless artificial acidity, but it works, giving
some zip to the finish. Lots of makeup on this one, but not uglier for it. (RH)
Ja
30 Oct 2012
Jip Jip Rocks | Shiraz Limestone Coast
16/20
2004
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
28 Sep 2011
4/5
The 2004 Shiraz Limestone Coast reveals good cassis and blackberry notes, but is oakier, lighter, and more
monolithic than the 2005.
Rubyred. Smoky blackberry, candied cherry, blueberry jam and licorice on the nose. Solid and sweet, with lush,
jammy blueberry and blackberry liqueur flavors complicated by notes of vanilla and cigar box. Finishes with gentle
tannins and good length, with a refreshing, slightly bitter note buffering the rich, liqueurlike flavors.
Ji
01 Jul 2006
Kaesler | Grenache-Shiraz-Mourvèdre Barossa Valley Stonehorse
88/100
2007
UWS: 91/100
(54% shiraz, 24% grenache and 22% mourvedre) Bright ruby. Alluring aromas of black raspberry, Asian spices,
minerals and tobacco, complicated by hints of smoke and game. Sweet, lush, broad and complex; spreads out to coat
the palate with fresh red and dark berry flavors. With its lovely mineral precision and lift, the finish displays a
distinctly juicy quality.
K
01 Sep 2009
Killibinbin | Shiraz Langhorne Creek
91/100
2006
UWS: 91/100
Firm, round and generous with its gorgeous blackberry, currant, sandalwood, star anise and bacon aromas and
flavors, finishing complex and elegant. Needs time to gain flesh. Best from 2011 through 2020. 450 cases made. HS
The 2006 Cabernet (70%) Shiraz (30%) is medium crimson in color with a bouquet of cedar, tar, black currant,
and blueberry. Ripe, forward, and fullflavored, this appealing wine is ready for primetime drinking.
31 Oct 2007
90/100
Saturated purple. Explosively perfumed nose offers vibrant mulberry, cassis, tobacco and dark chocolate scents,
with a subtle undertone of oak spice. Tangy dark berry skin flavors show excellent clarity and nerve, with zesty
minerality adding further energy. Finishes crisp, clean, spicy and long. There's very impressive balance and thrust
here.
Ki
01 Jul 2007
Kingston Estate | Cabernet Sauvignon Riverland
90/100
1998
UWS: 91/100
Ki
04 Oct 2012
Kingston Estate | Cabernet Sauvignon Riverland
16,200001/20
2000
UWS: 90/100
04 Oct 2012
16,299999/20
210
Medium redpurple; soft red and blackcurrant fruit is supported by gently sweet oak on the bouquet; well put
together, with quite generous fruit, and clever oak use. Excellent value.
Red Wines Australia
UWS: 90/100
04 Oct 2012
16,299999/20
Medium redpurple; soft red and blackcurrant fruit is supported by gently sweet oak on the bouquet; well put
together, with quite generous fruit, and clever oak use. Excellent value.
Ki
28 Apr 2011
Lake Breeze Wines | Langhorne Creek Bernoota
88/100
2002
UWS: 92/100
04 Oct 2012
17,200001/20
Sweet, spicy blackberry and black cherry; mediumbodied; fine but round tannins; whisk of American oak. Cork.
28 Apr 2011
93/100
The Langhorne Creek region is becoming an interesting source for highquality wines at reasonable prices. This 60
40 ShirazCab blend features dark plum and cassis fruit flavors framed by oaky notes of toasted coconut and vanilla.
It's lush and ultrasoft in the mouth, making it immediately accessible. Drink now2008.
La
01 Apr 2007
Lake Breeze Wines | Langhorne Creek Bernoota
90/100
2006
UWS: 90/100
04 Oct 2012
16,799999/20
Bright and clearly defined cabernet fruit supported by blackberry shiraz and just a hint of mint; quite long and
savoury. Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
91/100
Smooth and focused, with ripe berry and tar flavors on a medium frame, lingering on the spicy finish. Best after
2010. 200 cases imported. HS
28 Apr 2011
87/100
Bold and oaky, this ShirazCab blend starts out with notes of sawdust but quickly turns to guava and roses, backed
up by earth and cigar. The muscular tannins and sinewy acidity could use two to three years cellaring to integrate
better.
01 Jun 2010
89/100
The 2006 Bernoota is a glasscoating opaque purple. Its aromatics display wood smoke, pepper, violets, black
currant, and blueberry. On the palate it has some complexity, good depth, a bit of structure, and a smooth texture.
This mediumlong wine will evolve for 12 years but can be enjoyed now. Lake Breeze was established in 1950. Both
of the Bernoota wines are composed of 60% Shiraz and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from 60 year old estate
vines.
La
Lake Breeze Wines | Langhorne Creek Cabernet Sauvignon
2003
UWS: 91/100
Deep colour and good hue; abundant blackcurrant fruit supported by fine but positive tannins and oak; a lovely
wine. Cork.
28 Apr 2011
94/100
Cassis, cedar, herb, wood, and olivelike characteristics emerge from the 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon. Consume it
over the next 34 years.
211
Red Wines Australia
La
2005
UWS: 91/100
Vibrant redcurrant and cassis fruit, with good acid and plentiful finegrained tannins; long and juicy on the finish.
Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
91/100
28 Feb 2009
90/100
Red values $20 and up. Tasted and recommended, but no tasting note given.
A stylish, medium to short term wine of genuine varietal and minty regional character. Polished and creamy, with
piercing cassis, raspberry and plumlike fruit backed by cedar/vanilla oak and fine, dusty tannin, it's finely balanced,
moderately long and finished with a bright, refreshing acidity.o17.0/90, YTD 20132017)
La
29 Apr 2008
17/20
2006
UWS: 90/100
04 Oct 2012
17,299999/20
Light, fragrant berry aromas, then a typically soft and generous mediumbodied palate, with red and blackcurrant
fruit, tailing off slightly on the finish. Screwcap.
89/100
28 Apr 2011
The purplecolored 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon was aged for 20 months in French and American oak. It exhibits a
nose of cedar, eucalyptus/mint, black currant, and blackberry. This leads to a medium to fullbodied wine with
layered fruit, savory flavors, plenty of spice, good balance and a lengthy finish. All it is missing is complexity but
that may come with 12 years of additional cellaring. Lake Breeze was established in 1950. Both of the Bernoota
wines are composed of 60% Shiraz and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from 60 year old estate vines.
La
Lake Breeze Wines | Langhorne Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Arthur's Reserve
2001
UWS: 90/100
The 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon Arthur's Reserve (70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Petit Verdot) is impressive.
Aged in 100% new French oak, it exhibits classic aromas of violets, black currants, tobacco leaf, coffee, and subtle
wood. Medium to fullbodied, welldelineated, concentrated, and pure, this beauty will be at its finest between 2006
2013. American Estates Wines, Inc., Summit, NJ; tel. (908) 2735060
La
90/100
31 Oct 2004
2004
UWS: 94/100
This slightly meaty and rather polished blend reveals a piercing cassislike aroma of almost exaggerated intensity
backed by dark plums, cedar/chocolate oak, dark olives, graphite and iodide. Framed by mouthcoating, drying and
chalky tannin, it's long, luscious and laden with opulent dark fruit. Still needing time to integrate, it finishes savoury,
with a hint of saltiness. o17.5/91, YTD 20122016+)
La
29 Apr 2008
17,5/20
2005
212
Red Wines Australia
UWS: 91/100
The 2005 Arthur's Reserve Cabernet (84%)Petit Verdot (16%) is opaque purple/black in color. It delivers an
alluring nose of toasty oak, violets, incense, black currant, and blackberry. On the palate this muscular effort is
dense, layered, wellbalanced, and long. It will benefit from 35 years of cellaring and drink well through 2020, if
not longer. Lake Breeze was established in 1950. Both of the Bernoota wines are composed of 60% Shiraz and 40%
Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from 60 year old estate vines.
La
Lawson Wines | Shiraz Barossa Valley
2004
UWS: 90/100
Supple and generous, this opentextured red shows plum, blueberry and dusky spice aromas and flavors, hinting at
roasted beet as the finish lingers. Drink now through 2012. 150 cases imported. HS
28 Apr 2011
88/100
The 2004 Shiraz reveals an opaque purple color as well as more nuances, elegance, and sweetness than the Reserve,
but just as much power, muscle, and density. It should drink well for 1015 years.
La
31 Oct 2006
Leasingham | Cabernet-Malbec Clare Valley Bin 56
93/100
1992
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
18/20
Medium redpurple; a solid bouquet crammed with dark plum and berry fruit, with lots of vanillin oak. In the mouth,
a big, dense chewy wine with dark briary/berry fruit, a touch of plum but threatened by the vanillin American oak
which needs to come back into the wine.
Le
28 Apr 2011
86/100
1993
UWS: 90/100
04 Oct 2012
16,700001/20
Medium to full red; in very consistent style, a solid bouquet with lots of sweet berry fruit, lots of American oak, but
also the malbec influence discernible. The palate is crammed full of sweet dark berry fruit flavours, oak and tannins.
All in all, relies on power rather than finesse.
Le
28 Apr 2011
88/100
1996
UWS: 90/100
This French and American oak aged blend of cab 85 per cent and malbec (Argentina's heavyweight) has a quite
intense, brightly berry cassis aroma with typical eucalyptusmint, and toasty chocolaty oak and clove. Quite lush,
sweet and warm with good Clare Valley acidity tying it together. Considerable tannin, and a nutty chocolate mint
finish. Best to 2005.
28 Jan 2012
88/100
Medium to full purplered; very sweet berry fruit aromas with that unique slightly jammy note of Malbec
contributing. The palate, likewise, is rich and sweet, with layered mint and berry flavours. Cleverly handled oak is
also a feature. Multiple trophy winner 1998 National Wine Show.
28 Apr 2011
96/100
Firm in texture, with lively acidity supporting focused blackberry and currant flavors that manage to keep pace with
the chewy tannins. Best after 2001. 25,000 cases made. HS
213
intense, brightly berry cassis aroma with typical eucalyptusmint, and toasty chocolaty oak and clove. Quite lush,
sweet and warm with good Clare Valley acidity tying it together. Considerable tannin, and a nutty chocolate mint
finish. Best to 2005.
88/100
28 Jan 2012
Medium to full purplered; very sweet berry fruit aromas with that unique slightly jammy note of Malbec
contributing. The palate, likewise, is rich and sweet, with layered mint and berry flavours. Cleverly handled oak is
also a feature. Multiple trophy winner 1998 National Wine Show.
Red Wines Australia
96/100
28 Apr 2011
Firm in texture, with lively acidity supporting focused blackberry and currant flavors that manage to keep pace with
the chewy tannins. Best after 2001. 25,000 cases made. HS
An honest and intensely flavoured Clare red for the cellar with minty eucalypt regional aromas, sweet raspberry and
cassis fruit and lightly smoky vanilla and creamy oak. With a long, firm and flavoursome palate, a rich texture and a
big, balanced extract it should develop for several years. o17.0, Drink 20042008, $22 retail, approx.)
Le
01 Jun 1998
17/20
1997
UWS: 90/100
04 Oct 2012
15,8/20
A big, interesting, now maturing red with cedary, coffee, ripe berry, minty, earthy complexity and svelte, taut
composure here, for much less. Finish thins and sours a bit, but the flavour reemerges past the bitterness to
excellent length. Yet another argument for Clare being one of the world's (not just Australia's) better appellations.
Best 2002 to 2005.
89/100
28 Jan 2012
Medium to full redpurple; the bouquet has masses of sweet dark berry/blackberry fruit, joined by some dark
chocolate flavours on the palate. For once, fruit, not oak, is the major driver; easy to see how it won two trophies at
the National Wine Show in 1998.
Le
92/100
28 Apr 2011
1998
UWS: 90/100
04 Oct 2012
17,9/20
Dense, inky purplered; the bouquet is very concentrated and powerful, still locked in on itself; huge extract, with
masses of fruit and oak, marks the magimixstyle palate. This is very much an interim points rating; a few more
years may just transform the wine into something special. Its bloodlines and the vintage speak in its favour.
Le
28 Apr 2011
86/100
2001
UWS: 90/100
A rich mix of blackcurrant, dark chocolate, earth and savoury tannins. Impressive overall structure. Cork.
28 Apr 2011
92/100
Lacking its customary richness and fruit sweetness, this meaty, chocolatey red offers a plummy, pruney aroma with
some developing leathery complexity. Forward and meaty, it's spicy, earthy and slightly overcooked. Sweet mocha
and chocolate oak helps to smooth over its slightly raw and astringent finish. o16.2, 20062009+)
03 Jul 2004
16,200001/20
Not a burly wine, despite its components. There's juicy red fruit on the palate, though it's taut; cola, mocha, root
beer and big red fruit echo on nose and finish. Only 12% Malbec; only small amounts are exported to the U.S.
Le
01 Feb 2004
88/100
2007
UWS: 90/100
Clean and varietal, travelling along a single plane; the palate is fresh, with good acidity and reasonable flavour; a
little simple. Screwcap.
Published by 90pluswines.com James
Halliday © (JH)
28 Apr 2011
88/100
214
Rather rustic, meaty and unpolished, with a deep expression of dark and red berries, plums and sweet vanilla oak
Red Wines Australia
UWS: 90/100
Clean and varietal, travelling along a single plane; the palate is fresh, with good acidity and reasonable flavour; a
little simple. Screwcap.
88/100
28 Apr 2011
Rather rustic, meaty and unpolished, with a deep expression of dark and red berries, plums and sweet vanilla oak
backed by notes of mint and menthol as well as dried herbs and cloves. It's a sumptuous, richly flavoured, forward
and traditional style, with generous fruit framed by a firm, slightly rawedged and drying extract. Give it
time.o16.8/89, YTD 20152019)
Le
Lindemans | Shiraz South Australia Reserve
2005
UWS: 91/100
Li
28 Apr 2011
Longhop | Adelaide Plains Old Vine Reserve
16,5/20
2004
UWS: 90/100
(65% cabernet sauvignon and 35% shiraz) Dark ruby. Sharply etched bouquet of cherry, plum and candied licorice;
a sexy floral note comes up with air, along with suave baking spices. Sweet but focused and firm in the mouth, with
the dark fruit flavors showing good weight but no flab. Finishes spicy, juicy and persistent, with a subtle lingering
suggestion of candied mint.
Lo
90/100
01 Jul 2006
Majella | Cabernet-Shiraz Coonawarra The Musician
2007
UWS: 90/100
04 Oct 2012
16,4/20
Majella has come up with yet another stylish Musician punching above its price weight; blackberry, plum and
blackcurrant do all the flavour singing, while tannins handle the percussion. Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
92/100
70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Shiraz Sweet and full and ripe very Australian! A bit exaggerated on the finish.
Maybe it will eventually calm down?
M
Marquis Philips Wines | South Australia Sarah's Blend
20 Oct 2008
15/20
2008
UWS: 91/100
The purple/black 2008 Sarah's Blend is composed of 63% Shiraz, 26% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the balance Merlot
and Cabernet Franc. Notes of smoke, espresso, damp earth, spice box, and assorted black fruits lead to a full
bodied, already complex, rich wine with loads of ripe fruit. The finish is long, smooth, and filled with flavor. With
veteran vigneron Chris Ringland now in charge of the winemaking, I can state unequivocally that this is the finest
collection of Marquis Philips wines since the label was started in 2000. Nevertheless, these wines will be
controversial because all but one of the nonRoogle wines is over 16% alcohol. The small but vocal crowd of
Australia bashers will have a field day taking these wines to task as they do with the Mollydooker wines (which seem
to sell out anyway). Ringland is concerned about flavor and balance which is what these wines are all about. Those
seeking low alcohol, subtlety, and finesse should of course look elsewhere. Those who want a big mouthful of
sensual pleasure should read on. The Roogle Series is meant to be a bargainpriced introduction to the Marquis
Philips upper level wines. The Marquis Philips wines are predominantly sourced from McLaren Vale while the
Roogle wines are multiregional.
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bodied, already complex, rich wine with loads of ripe fruit. The finish is long, smooth, and filled with flavor. With
veteran vigneron Chris Ringland now in charge of the winemaking, I can state unequivocally that this is the finest
collection of Marquis Philips wines since the label was started in 2000. Nevertheless, these wines will be
controversial because all but one of the nonRoogle wines is over 16% alcohol. The small but vocal crowd of
Australia bashers will have a field day taking these wines to task as they do with the Mollydooker wines (which seem
to sell out anyway). Ringland is concerned about flavor and balance which is what these wines are all about. Those
seeking low alcohol, subtlety, and finesse should of course look elsewhere. Those who want a big mouthful of
sensual pleasure should read on. The Roogle Series is meant to be a bargainpriced introduction to the Marquis
Philips upper level wines. The Marquis Philips wines are predominantly sourced from McLaren Vale while the
Roogle wines are multiregional.
Red Wines Australia
M
Marquis Philips Wines | South Australia Shiraz Tabla
2005
UWS: 93/100
The 2005 Tabla Shiraz was 100% barrelfermented in new and 1year American oak where it remained for 18
months. It has a splendid aromatic profile of cedar, tobacco, smoke, saddle leather, and blueberry compote. Mouth
filling, fullbodied, and fruitdriven, this Shiraz is ultrarich, intense, and very long. R Wines is a new company
founded by importer and marketing genius, Dan Philips, along with coowner, renowned winemaker, Chris
Ringland. Winemakers for R Wines are Chris Ringland, Lisa Wetherell, Andrew Hercock, and John Hughes. It
encompasses four familiar labels, Marquis Philips, 3 Rings, Roogle, and Bitch, along with 13 others created
especially for R Wines. Needless to say, the packaging of these wines is amazingly creative but, more importantly,
what is in the bottle consistently overdelivers from lowend to highend. The R series features Cabernet Sauvignon
from the Barossa and a Rose of Cabernet Sauvignon from McLaren Vale. The labels portray different takes on the
letter R . Consumers owe it to themselves to read the witty back labels. The Marquis Philips wines have established
a six year track record of delivering a big bang for the buck. The wines are now made by a team put together by Dan
Philips and Chris Ringland with absolutely no change in quality. Starting with the 2006 vintage, however, all of the
fruit is sourced from McLaren Vale. The other change of note is that Merlot has been dropped from the program,
primarily because of the difficulty of finding Merlot good enough to merit the MP label.
M
Marquis Philips Wines | Southeast Australia Cabernet Sauvignon
2008
UWS: 90/100
The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon is purple/blackcolored with a nose of toasty black currants, spice box, and licorice.
Velvety, sweet, and opulent on the palate, it has plenty of concentration, enough structure for balance, and a pure,
fruitfilled finish. With veteran vigneron Chris Ringland now in charge of the winemaking, I can state
unequivocally that this is the finest collection of Marquis Philips wines since the label was started in 2000.
Nevertheless, these wines will be controversial because all but one of the nonRoogle wines is over 16% alcohol. The
small but vocal crowd of Australia bashers will have a field day taking these wines to task as they do with the
Mollydooker wines (which seem to sell out anyway). Ringland is concerned about flavor and balance which is what
these wines are all about. Those seeking low alcohol, subtlety, and finesse should of course look elsewhere. Those
who want a big mouthful of sensual pleasure should read on. The Roogle Series is meant to be a bargainpriced
introduction to the Marquis Philips upper level wines. The Marquis Philips wines are predominantly sourced from
McLaren Vale while the Roogle wines are multiregional.
M
McWilliam's Wines | Cabernet Sauvignon Coonawarra
2010
UWS: 91/100
Marks & Spencer blend. Lovely blackcurrant jam nose and that distinctive minty, eucalyptus note. Bit of smoke,
cinnamon and a fine, smooth tannin finish. All you could ask for. (RH)
M
Mitchell Cellars | Cabernet Sauvignon Clare Valley Sevenhill Vineyard
1999
UWS: 90/100
04 Oct 2012
18,299999/20
Dark and peppery, with a licorice edge to the currant and prune flavors, echoing the spices on the lively finish.
Drink now through 2006. 28 cases imported. HS
28 Apr 2011
88/100
Medium redpurple; middle of the road, slightly dusty, cabernet fruit on the bouquet is followed by a palate with
more authority to the blackberry fruit, girdled by firm, austere tannins.
216
28 Apr 2011
86/100
UWS: 90/100
04 Oct 2012
Red Wines Australia
18,299999/20
Dark and peppery, with a licorice edge to the currant and prune flavors, echoing the spices on the lively finish.
Drink now through 2006. 28 cases imported. HS
28 Apr 2011
88/100
Medium redpurple; middle of the road, slightly dusty, cabernet fruit on the bouquet is followed by a palate with
more authority to the blackberry fruit, girdled by firm, austere tannins.
28 Apr 2011
86/100
Dark and whole, the full package with nary a flaw. Very rich and spicy, but with enough plump black fruit to support
all that spice, licorice and espresso. It's tight now, almost unyielding, but for fans of masculine Cabs that still feature
a sensationally sweet core of fruit, this is terrific stuff.
The dark rubycolored 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Sevenhills possesses straightforward cassis fruit mixed with hints
of earth and dried herbs. The earthy character continues in the mouth along with additional oaky flavors. This well
made, mediumbodied, elegant Cabernet should drink well for 710 years.
M
31 Oct 2002
Mitchell Cellars | Clare Valley Shiraz Peppertree
86/100
1999
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
18 Jan 2012
3/5
Medium purplered; the bouquet is clean and smooth, with gently ripe plum, spice and a touch of cedar; the palate
offers an excellent marriage of fruit, oak and tannins, underpinned by ripe, black cherry fruit. Smooth and
harmonious, more elegance than power, and an outstanding success.
28 Apr 2011
94/100
28 Apr 2011
17/20
01 Sep 2002
85/100
01 Feb 2002
90/100
Rubyred. Primal, grapey reduced aromas of red fruits, smoked meat and woodsmoke. Smooth but slightly reduced
flavors of crushed red berries, meat, pepper and sweet tobacco. Nicely restrained sweetness. Finishes with ripe
tannins, good length and a hint of heat. (Click Imports, Seattle, WA)
01 Jul 2001
86/100
Aged in 100% French oak for 12 months prior to bottling, this impressivelyendowed 1999 Shiraz boasts an opaque
ruby/purple color as well as a sweet nose of black fruits, new saddle leather, earth, tar, and licorice ... a classic
Australian Shiraz aromatic profile. The French oak provides subtlety vis a vis some of the more aggressive Shiraz
that see American oak. This 1999 possesses supple tannin, full body, outstanding density and purity, and a low acid,
plump finish. It should be drunk over the next decade.
M
30 Jun 2001
90/100
2002
UWS: 90/100
Deeply coloured, the wine is flooded with blackberry, licorice, and a touch of tar; excellent length and mouthfeel.
Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
92/100
Dark ruby. Wild aromas of smoked meat, game, crushed blackberry, pepper and roasted coffee. Quite taut on entry,
then fattens up nicely in the middle. Rich, thick flavors of dark berries, bitter chocolate and smoky bacon. Finishes
long, supple and juicy.(Click Imports,Seattle WA
01 Jul 2005
88/100
A wellmade, elegantlystyled Shiraz, this mediumbodied 2002 offers up notes of melted licorice, spice box, black
currants, vanilla, and earth. It exhibits excellent richness and fine purity as well as overall balance. Enjoy it over the
next 78 years.
31 Oct 2004
90/100
Musky aromas of red plums and red berries reveal slightly resinous oak and obvious sulphide undertones. Smooth,
soft and generous, its rustic expression of dark berry/plum fruit is offset by clove/cinnamonlike spiciness and
Published
byunusual
90pluswines.com
217
framed by fine, almost silky tannins. It finishes
with an
greenedged meatiness, but offers good structure and
potential. o16.1, 20072010+)
Dark ruby. Wild aromas of smoked meat, game, crushed blackberry, pepper and roasted coffee. Quite taut on entry,
then fattens up nicely in the middle. Rich, thick flavors of dark berries, bitter chocolate and smoky bacon. Finishes
long, supple and juicy.(Click Imports,Seattle WA
88/100
01 Jul 2005
A wellmade, elegantlystyled Shiraz, this mediumbodied 2002 offers up notes of melted licorice, spice box, black
currants, vanilla, and earth. It exhibits excellent richness and fine purity as well as overall balance. Enjoy it over the
next 78 years.
Red Wines Australia
90/100
31 Oct 2004
Musky aromas of red plums and red berries reveal slightly resinous oak and obvious sulphide undertones. Smooth,
soft and generous, its rustic expression of dark berry/plum fruit is offset by clove/cinnamonlike spiciness and
framed by fine, almost silky tannins. It finishes with an unusual greenedged meatiness, but offers good structure and
potential. o16.1, 20072010+)
03 Jul 2004
16,1/20
A soft, ripe, excellent Shiraz, and drinkable even at this early age. Licorice stands out on the palate, under which
mixed plums forge a solid foundation. Finishes, appropriately enough, with black pepper.
M
91/100
01 Feb 2004
2003
UWS: 91/100
Mediumbodied; gently ripe, spicy damson plum/blackberry fruit; fine, lingering tannins; wellmade, subtle oak.
Screwcap.
90/100
28 Apr 2011
The 2003 Shiraz Peppertree Vineyard is a spicy, earthy, peppery effort displaying notions of black currants, plums,
and cherries. With good richness, medium to full body, and a heady, long finish, it will provide pleasure over the
next 45 years.
90/100
31 Oct 2005
A charming, easydrinking Clare shiraz of elegance and style. Its sweet raspberry and cassis aromas are floral and
peppery, with undertones of confection. Smooth and approachable, its vibrant and juicy fruit is supported by sweet
oak and finegrained tannins. Very pretty. oClare Valley, $28 retail, approx., 17.1/90, drink 20112015)
M
08 Jul 2005
Oxford Landing | Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz South Australia
17,1/20
2005
UWS: 91/100
With a pleasingly intense expression of vibrant small berry/plum fruit and a lightly toasty background of mochalike
oak, this finegrained and silkysmooth young blend has a peppery aroma and a wellconstructed, elegant and juicy
palate. Fruit, oak and tannin combine well to deliver plenty of length and surprisingly tight structure. oRiverlands,
$10 retail, approx., 16.3/87, drink 20072010)
O
20 Jun 2007
Penfolds | South Australia Shiraz / Cabernet Koonunga Hill
16,299999/20
1988
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
17/20
Most consumers associate the name Penfolds with the extraordinary luxury wine called Penfolds Grange Hermitage.
However, Penfolds also produces a bevy of other wines, many of which are not only of high quality, but are also
significantly less expensive than their Grange Hermitage. The 1988 Koonunga Hill Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon
(78% Shiraz and 22% Cabernet) is a fullbodied, rich wine, with an attractive blackcurrant, subtle herb, smoky,
licoricescented bouquet, medium to fullbodied flavors, a soft, opulent texture, and a moderately long finish. It is
ideal for drinking over the next 46 years.
Pe
Penfolds | South Australia Shiraz / Cabernet Koonunga Hill
29 Feb 1992
87/100
2006
UWS: 92/100
Juicy, ripe and generous, this spicy and slightly stewed expression of dark plums, black and red berries is scented
with violets, pepper and black tea leaves and supported by rather polished creamy chocolate/vanilla oak. It's framed
by firmish, chalky tannins but remains pleasingly long and smooth. oSouth Australia, 16.8/89, drink 20112014)
218
Jeremy Oliver © (JO) 22 Feb 2008 16,799999/20
Red Wines Australia
UWS: 92/100
Juicy, ripe and generous, this spicy and slightly stewed expression of dark plums, black and red berries is scented
with violets, pepper and black tea leaves and supported by rather polished creamy chocolate/vanilla oak. It's framed
by firmish, chalky tannins but remains pleasingly long and smooth. oSouth Australia, 16.8/89, drink 20112014)
Pe
22 Feb 2008
Penley Estate | Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon Phoenix
16,799999/20
2007
UWS: 90/100
A fragrant bouquet of spicy red and dark fruits, then a mediumbodied palate with bright cassisaccented fruit; good
tannins and length. Value. Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
91/100
Toneddown aromas of blackberry and mocha lead to a palate with a firm structure of welldefined acidity and
gripping tannins. The medium finish winds down to a note of mulling spices. Likely to improve with a year or two in
the cellar.
01 Jun 2010
88/100
The 2007 Phoenix Cabernet Sauvignon spent 18 months in 25% new French oak. Dark rubycolored, it offers up
aromas of balsam wood, cassis, and blackberry. On the palate, this fleshy effort has plenty of ripe, succulent fruit,
lots of spice, and excellent length. It delivers a lot of wine for the money.
Juicy blackberry, cherry, tobacco and tar flavors wrap tightly around the focused core of this firm red, lingering on
the finish. Best from 2010 through 2014. 1,500 cases imported. HS
15 Oct 2009
89/100
Coonawarra is the place to look for this kind of clean, fragrant cabernet, its red and black currant flavors lifted by
scents of herbs. A generous red for a juicy steak.
01 Oct 2009
90/100
Deep ruby. Powerful aromas of crushed blackcurrant, rose, pepper and herbs. Lush and sappy yet delicate, with red
and black fruit and spice flavors energized by tangy minerality. Nothing thick or heavy about this wine. Finishes
with enticing lift and very good persistence. This carries its 15% alcohol gracefully.
01 Jul 2009
89/100
Generous and approachable, if marginally warm and forward, this richly flavoured young cabernet marries a very
ripe depth of fruit with rather polished oak and herbal undertones. Underpinned by suggestions of meat, briar and a
hint of currant, its flavours of berries and plums knit tightly with cedar/chocolate/vanilla oak, delivering a smooth,
luscious presence supported by firmish but pliant tannins, finishing with pleasing length and minerality, but also a
hint of spirity warmth.o17.2/90, YTD 20092012+)
Pe
24 Jun 2009
Penley Estate | Coonawarra Shiraz Hyland
17,200001/20
1999
UWS: 90/100
Medium redpurple; smooth, sweet berry fruit and warm vanilla oak is a welcoming start, but the palate has slightly
tart fruit and unexpected tannins. Needs time, but is, I fancy, intended as an early drinking style.
28 Apr 2011
86/100
Deep, dark toast aromas join fatty grilled meat, prunes and molasses. All repeat on the palate with additions of
sweet blackberries, black plums, leather, dark chocolate and more molasses. Chocolate and pepper ride out a long,
dark finish. This is a fantastic wine for the price. Editors' Choice. —K.F.
Ripe and generous, rounder than most Coonawarra Shirazes, offering blueberry and plum character in abundance,
nicely shaded with white pepper and dried tomato notes. A beguiling wine, a good bet for cellaring. Best from 2004
01 Feb 2002
93/100
Published
by 90pluswines.com
Smooth and brightly flavoured, this creamy,
lively
young red has a fragrant spicy aroma of raspberries,
219
blackcurrants and cherries enhanced by light cedar/vanilla oak. It's long and polished, piercing in its intensity and
Deep, dark toast aromas join fatty grilled meat, prunes and molasses. All repeat on the palate with additions of
sweet blackberries, black plums, leather, dark chocolate and more molasses. Chocolate and pepper ride out a long,
dark finish. This is a fantastic wine for the price. Editors' Choice. —K.F.
Ripe and generous, rounder than most Coonawarra Shirazes, offering blueberry and plum character in abundance,
nicely shaded with white pepper and dried tomato notes. A beguiling wine, a good bet for cellaring. Best from 2004
Red Wines Australia
93/100
01 Feb 2002
Smooth and brightly flavoured, this creamy, lively young red has a fragrant spicy aroma of raspberries,
blackcurrants and cherries enhanced by light cedar/vanilla oak. It's long and polished, piercing in its intensity and
wrapped up in finegrained tannins and creamy oak. o17.5, Drink 20042007, $23 retail, approx.)
01 Jul 2001
17,5/20
Good dark redruby. Aromas of plum, black raspberry, dark chocolate and roasted oak. Juicy but quite dry, with
nicely concentrated berry and oak spice flavors. Not at all a sweet style for Australian shiraz, but possesses very
good fruit. The vines planted here in the late '80s are beginning to mature.
01 Jul 2001
88/100
The fleshy, velvetytextured, elegant 1999 Shiraz Hyland is a good value. Its deep ruby/purple color is followed by
aromas and flavors of chocolate, blackberries, and pepper presented in a mediumbodied, supple format. Drink it
Pe
30 Jun 2001
Penley Estate | Coonawarra Shiraz Hyland
88/100
2005
UWS: 91/100
Very good balance and structure; fine polish and finesse. The brevity of this note matches the price. Cork.
28 Apr 2011
Decanter © (DC)
93/100
28 Apr 2011
3/5
The cool Coonawarra region can produce Shiraz with more elegance and complexity than is seen in hot regions, and
this is a fine example, balancing ample weight with juicy acidity. Toasty oak frames flavors of cassis and mint,
blackberry and spice. Drink this great value from now2020.
A brightly flavoured, intense and confiturelike earlydrinking shiraz with notes of violets, menthol, cloves and
cinnamon beneath its vibrant, jujubelike flavours of blackcurrants, dark plums and raspberries. It's quite peppery,
with some tightknit cedar/vanilla oak and smooth, approachable tannins. It even holds its 15% alcohol well, for the
short term at least. oCoonawarra, 17.0/90, drink 20072010+)
Jeremy Oliver © (JO) 14 Nov 2007 17/20
The 2005 Shiraz Hyland is 100% Shiraz. It also offers an uncomplicated, reticent style with tasty blue and black
fruits of moderate depth and length. Drink it over the next 46 years.
31 Oct 2007
87/100
Smooth and generous. The rich blueberry and plum flavors are balanced with refined acidity, hinting at white
pepper and cream as the finish lingers. Drink now through 2015. 1,500 cases imported. HS
30 Sep 2007
90/100
Deep ruby. Sexy, expressive red and dark berry aromas are brightened by floral and mineral nuances. Very sweet on
entry but the raspberry and cassis flavors are nicely enlivened by zesty acidity and a hint of orange peel. Crisp berry
skin tones define the long, juicy finish, which leaves a lingering note of fresh raspberry. This boasts impressive depth
and purity, especially at this price.
Pe
Peter Lehmann | Barossa Valley Clancy's Barossa
01 Jul 2007
91/100
2011
UWS: 90/100
This red is supple, expressive and appealing, with pure blueberry and plum fruit, shading the finish with loamy earth
and sweet spice hints. Shows presence and length. Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and Merlot. Drink now through
2016. HS
220
Red Wines Australia
Pe
Peter Lehmann | Barossa Valley The Seven Surveys Old Vines
1997
UWS: 90/100
04 Oct 2012
16,6/20
The excellent 1997 Seven Surveys, a blend of 34% Mourvedre, 33% Grenache, and 33% Shiraz, offers peppery,
cherry jamlike aromas as well as flavors. Foursquare, spicy, and fullbodied, with austere tannin, this 1997 should
be drunk in its rustic youth over the next 45 years.
Pe
Peter Lehmann | Shiraz Barossa Valley
88/100
30 Jun 2001
2006
UWS: 91/100
The style of fruit evident on the nose here is dark, and it has a fairly reserved character. Nevertheless there are a lot
of exuberant flavours on the palate, backed up by a good grip, substance and a little peppery bite. Overall an
impressive wine, with good structure and composition.
This nicely balanced Barossa Shiraz shows that not all Barossa wines are overweight. Sure, it has the soft, lush
tannins and textures of its region, but there's also attractive herbal and savory overtones to the berry fruit.
90/100
01 Jul 2009
Ripe and round, this is generous with its smoky cherry and black currant flavors, persisting against mildly grippy
tannins to create a long, layered finish. Best from 2010 through 2016. 26,400 cases imported. HS
Peter Lehmann's 2006 The 1885 Shiraz is sourced from a vineyard planted in 1885 on its own roots. It was aged for
12 months in French oak hogsheads. Dark rubycolored, it offers an expressive bouquet of cedar, tobacco, spice box,
a hint of eucalyptus, and blue fruits. Smooth textured, medium to fullbodied, and spicy on the palate, the wine has
good depth and length. It will evolve for 23 years and be at its best from 2010 to 2020.
Pe
Piping Shrike | Shiraz Barossa Valley
91/100
28 Feb 2009
2008
UWS: 90/100
Rubyred. Spicy red berries and flowers on the nose, plus a hint of black tea. Fresh, precise strawberry and
raspberry flavors are enlivened by tangy acidity. Clean, mouthwatering and extremely appealing shiraz with
impressive finishing clarity and cut. (Epicurean Wines, Seattle, WA)
90/100
01 Jul 2010
Another perennial Best Buy, the 2008 Piping Shrike Shiraz continues the tradition. Made at the excellent Charles
Cimicky winery, it was aged for 14 months in a mix of French and American oak with 35% of the latter new. It offers
up a fragrant nose of smoke, bacon, and blueberry leading to a supple, smoothtextured sweetlyfruited, easygoing
wine that could use a bit more depth. Drink this crowdpleaser over the next 45 years.
Pi
Plantagenet Wines | Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Barker
2004
UWS: 91/100
Medium redpurple; gently sweet blackcurrant fruit woven through cedary oak. A distinctly userfriendly style.
Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
90/100
Fine, elegant, smooth and stylish, this delicate and lightly herbal cabernet reveals a floral perfume and a silky, fine
grained palate whose lively flavours of raspberries and cassis are supported by cedar/vanilla oak. Just a little too
herbaceous and lacking in length of fruitPublished
for a higher
rating. oGreat Southern, 16.6/88, drink 20062009+)
by 90pluswines.com
221
15 Apr 2008
16,6/20
UWS: 91/100
Red Wines Australia
Medium redpurple; gently sweet blackcurrant fruit woven through cedary oak. A distinctly userfriendly style.
Screwcap.
90/100
28 Apr 2011
Fine, elegant, smooth and stylish, this delicate and lightly herbal cabernet reveals a floral perfume and a silky, fine
grained palate whose lively flavours of raspberries and cassis are supported by cedar/vanilla oak. Just a little too
herbaceous and lacking in length of fruit for a higher rating. oGreat Southern, 16.6/88, drink 20062009+)
Pl
15 Apr 2008
Saint Hallett | Shiraz-Grenache Barossa Gamekeeper's Reserve
16,6/20
2008
UWS: 93/100
A very good example of the blend, with juicy cherry and raspberry fruit flavours undiminished by tannins or oak. No
need to wait for this. Gold medal Sydney Wine Show '10. Screwcap.
Sa
28 Apr 2011
Scarpantoni | Southern Vales School Block
93/100
2002
UWS: 91/100
Sc
04 Oct 2012
Small Gully Wines | Barossa Valley Mr Black's Concoction
16,299999/20
2005
UWS: 90/100
The 2005 Mr. Black's Concoction ShirazViognier (4%) offers up a fragrant floral nose enhanced by the Viognier
component as well as smoked meat, mineral, and blueberry. Sweet, ripe, and wellbalanced, it will provide much
pleasure over the next four years. This is another terrific value. Small Gully Wines is a partnership between
winemaker Stephen Black and vineyard owner Robert Bader. The portfolio is loaded with remarkable values that
should strike a resonant chord in our difficult economy.
28 Feb 2009
90/100
This offers lots of dark, brooding cherry and licorice flavors at the core, ladling bits of tar and pepper on the long,
generous finish. Grenache, Shiraz and Mourvèdre. Drink now through 2013. 800 cases made. HS
Deep red. Smoky black raspberry and cherry on the nose, with baking spices and cracked pepper adding energy.
Silky and mediumbodied, with raspberry and blackcurrant fruit flavors, supple tannins and good backend lift. This
already offers good complexity and suave texture.
S
Small Gully Wines | South Australia Shiraz The Formula Robert's
01 Sep 2008
89/100
2005
UWS: 90/100
The lineup begins with the opaque purplecolored 2005 The Formula Robert's Shiraz. It exhibits an expressive nose
of bacon and blueberry leading to a layered, easy going wine with a smooth texture and intense flavors. This superb
value can be enjoyed over the next five years. Small Gully Wines is a partnership between winemaker Stephen
Black and vineyard owner Robert Bader. The portfolio is loaded with remarkable values that should strike a
resonant chord in our difficult economy.
28 Feb 2009
90/100
Ripe and focused, offering a polished mouthful of tar and licoriceaccented blackberry flavors that persist
impressively on the finish. Drink now through 2012. 4,000 cases made. HS
S
2006
222
Red Wines Australia
UWS: 90/100
Deep garnet colored, the 2006 The Formula Robert's Shiraz gives moderately intense aromas of crushed
blackberries, black cherries, toast with marmite, earth, chocolate box and a whiff of fresh rolling tobacco.
Concentrated and fullbodied, the palate is more forward than the nose with plenty of vibrant juicy fruit countered
by crisp acid and medium to firm fine tannins lending support. It finishes long and spicy with lingering clove and
fennel seed notes. Drink it now to 2015.
The 2006 The Formula Robert's Shiraz gives up aromas of mineral, pencil lead, incense, and blueberry. Ripe, sweet,
and savory on the palate, this smooth, suave effort is all about pleasure. Drink it over the next 4 years. All four of
the Small Gully offerings deliver outstanding value.
S
2007
UWS: 90/100
Deep garnetbrick colored, the 2007 The Formula Robert's Shiraz gives mature notes of leather, tobacco and stewed
tea over dried cranberries, fruit cake and coffee. Rich, densely packed and fullbodied in the mouth, the voluptuous
fruit is wellbalanced by crisp acid and rounded tannins, finishing long and spicy. Drink this one now to 2015.
S
The Magpie Estate | Barossa Valley Shiraz The Sack
2008
UWS: 90/100
The 2008 Sack Shiraz is 97% Shiraz with a dollop of Grenache. Deep garnetpurple colored, it gives very warm
blackberry, cassis, and kirsch notes over some licorice and a touch of earthy underbrush and loam. Medium to full
bodied with mediumfirm fine tannins, good concentration and refreshing acid, it has a long finish. Drink it now to
2016+. Magpie Estate is a joint venture between the talented Barossa based produced Rolf Binder and UK wine
merchant Noel Young. Coming through some difficult vintages, the lineup here remains solid with some very good
to excellent wines to recommend. Note that no 2007 or 2008 Gomersal Grenache or Malcolm Shiraz were produced
though a sneakpreview of barrel samples of the 2009 vintage of these wines promises something special to come.
Th
Thorn-Clarke Wines | Barossa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Terra Barossa
Importer's Reserve
2005
UWS: 90/100
Ripe and fleshy, with a glowing core of black currant and plum flavors that are shaded with grace notes of grilled
pepper and roasted meat. The fruit lingers enticingly as the finish rolls on. Drink now through 2015. 1,200 cases
made. HS
Th
Thorn-Clarke Wines | Barossa Valley Shiraz Shotfire Ridge
2003
UWS: 91/100
Deep colour; richly robed blackberry fruit and vanilla oak; medium to fullbodied; soft, ripe tannins.
28 Apr 2011
28 Apr 2011
91/100
15,1/20
The 2003 Shotfire Ridge Barossa Cuvee, a blend of 43% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Shiraz, 13% Cabernet Franc,
11% Merlot, and 4% Petit Verdot, possesses a dense ruby/purple color as well as a big, sweet nose of creosote,
black cherries, currants, licorice, and vanilla. Sweet (from outstanding ripeness, not residual sugar), fullbodied,
and fleshy, it provides a big, savory mouthful of South Australian fruit. Drink it over the next 45 years. This
by 90pluswines.com
successful, reasonably large operation (666Published
acres) with
vineyards dating back to the 1850s offer an assortment223
of
wines under various labels (Milton Park, Terra Barossa, Shotfire Ridge, and William Randall). Their offerings are
UWS: 91/100
Deep colour; richly robed blackberry fruit and vanilla oak; medium to fullbodied; soft, ripe tannins.
Red Wines Australia
91/100
28 Apr 2011
28 Apr 2011
15,1/20
The 2003 Shotfire Ridge Barossa Cuvee, a blend of 43% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Shiraz, 13% Cabernet Franc,
11% Merlot, and 4% Petit Verdot, possesses a dense ruby/purple color as well as a big, sweet nose of creosote,
black cherries, currants, licorice, and vanilla. Sweet (from outstanding ripeness, not residual sugar), fullbodied,
and fleshy, it provides a big, savory mouthful of South Australian fruit. Drink it over the next 45 years. This
successful, reasonably large operation (666 acres) with vineyards dating back to the 1850s offer an assortment of
wines under various labels (Milton Park, Terra Barossa, Shotfire Ridge, and William Randall). Their offerings are
undeniably seductive, modernstyled, classic South Australian wines exhibiting copious quantities of upfront fruit,
full body, and abundant oak. The proprietors claim they over deliver.
31 Oct 2005
90/100
Big, rich and concentrated, a huge mouthful of peppery black cherry, plum and exotic spice flavors pulling
themselves together into a supple wine that actually strives for elegance. It's all in balance, which lets the rich
flavors ride on a sleek track and linger beautifully. Best from 2008 through 2020. 12,000 cases made. HS
15 Oct 2005
93/100
This blend manages to be both supple and focused. It combines cabernet sauvignon with shiraz, cabernet franc,
merlot and petit verdot, and it's the cabernet that seems to take the lead. The perfumed high notes of the wine show
off that variety's black currant elegance, while there's an undercurrent of deeper fruit and complex mineral tones
that slowly emerges with air. It's sweetly ripe, heady and concentrated while remaining discreet. And it's well
priced, to buy by the case.
Th
01 Oct 2005
93/100
2004
UWS: 91/100
Big, spicy, dusty white pepper nose with smoky, blueberry leather notes. The entry is smooth but dry, with more
dusty, earthy, blackberry jam. This is a big powerful shiraz that needs an equally strong dish to stand up to it; roast
lamb or venison would be a good choice.
28 Jan 2012
Decanter © (DC)
89/100
28 Sep 2011
3/5
Deep purplered; a dense, rich and powerful wine which retains true elegance, no doubt due in part to the controlled
alcohol. Oak, fruit and tannins coalesce in a wine of great quality, with a number of significant gold medals under
its belt. Cork.
Th
28 Apr 2011
95/100
2008
UWS: 90/100
Ultra ripe, oaky, jammy, black cherry jam, eucalyptus, black forest cake tastes like dessert in a glass. The palate
matches with a sweet impression, dusty tannins and average finish. Hardly subtle. Big and sweet.
28 Jan 2012
86/100
Slightly less dense colour than Sandpiper; lifted plum, dark chocolate and blackberry fruit aromas are followed by
an energetic palate that gains velocity on the finish and aftertaste. A conundrum, given the benefit of doubt.
Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
94/100
This medium to fullbodied Shiraz features a welcoming mix of mulberries and vanilla, overtaken by cedary flavors
on the finish, where the fruit turns crisp. A slab of charred steak would match the woody notes nicely. Drink now
2013.
01 Feb 2011
88/100
Inky ruby. Exotically perfumed aromas of cherrycola, vanilla and boysenberry, with a hint of cracked pepper
adding vivacity. Lush and creamy on the palate, offering sweet dark fruit flavors and a building note of bitter
chocolate. Very rich but not overdone, finishing with very good breadth and sweetness. This needs rich food, like a
piece of grilled lamb or a pungent blue cheese.
01 Jul 2010
89/100
Firm and chewy, with a smoky note most prominent among the dark berry and licorice flavors, lingering against
by 90pluswines.com
224
chunky tannins. Best after 2011. Tasted twice,Published
with consistent
notes. 25,000 cases made. HS
This medium to fullbodied Shiraz features a welcoming mix of mulberries and vanilla, overtaken by cedary flavors
on the finish, where the fruit turns crisp. A slab of charred steak would match the woody notes nicely. Drink now
2013.
01 Feb 2011
88/100
Red Wines Australia
Inky ruby. Exotically perfumed aromas of cherrycola, vanilla and boysenberry, with a hint of cracked pepper
adding vivacity. Lush and creamy on the palate, offering sweet dark fruit flavors and a building note of bitter
chocolate. Very rich but not overdone, finishing with very good breadth and sweetness. This needs rich food, like a
piece of grilled lamb or a pungent blue cheese.
01 Jul 2010
89/100
Firm and chewy, with a smoky note most prominent among the dark berry and licorice flavors, lingering against
chunky tannins. Best after 2011. Tasted twice, with consistent notes. 25,000 cases made. HS
A very good honest wine ready to enjoy now or cellar. Lifted by notes of spice and black pepper, its lightly smoky
and gamey bouquet of fresh red and black berries, dark plums and sweet cedar/vanilla oak reveals some meaty and
earthy complexity. It's lively, fresh and smooth, with a polished, velvetlike spine beneath its brightly lit, juicy and
fractionally jammy flavours of black and red berries and vanilla/chocolate oak, although it does finish with some
firmness and drying tannin. oBarossa Valley, $34 retail, approx., 17.0/90, drink 20132016)
07 Apr 2010
17/20
The 2008 Shotfire Shiraz was aged for 1416 months in 40% new French and American oak hogsheads. Purple
colored, it offers up a nose of toasty oak, Asian spices, incense, blueberry, and blackberry. On the palate it has
excellent flavors in a plush, nearly opulent style. The wine is balanced, rich, fleshy, and ripe. Drink this fullflavored
effort over the next 68 years. ThornClarke is a fine source for values from Australia. There are three levels of
wine, the Milton Park series lined priced at $13, the Terra Barossa series line priced at $15, and the Shotfire series
line priced at $24. Typically they can be found discounted at hard to resist prices.
Th
Thorn-Clarke Wines | Barossa Valley Terra Barossa Cuvee
2009
UWS: 95/100
Decanter © (DC)
Th
Winner's Tank | Langhorne Creek Shiraz Velvet Sledgehammer
29 Feb 2012
4/5
2007
UWS: 91/100
The 2007 Shiraz Velvet Sledgehammer was sourced from a lower yielding section of the same vineyard. Slightly
deeper in color, it is more expressive aromatically with soaring aromas of smoke, meat, and blue and black fruits.
Savory, dense, and fullflavored, it has enough structure to evolve for 12 years and will drink well through 2017.
Glassstaining ruby. Vibrant aromas of raspberry, cherry, violet and smoky minerals. More energetic than the basic
bottling, offering sweet, penetrating red and dark berry flavors and slowbuilding spiciness. The finish repeats the
red berry note and hangs on with impressive clarity and a late note of candied flowers. Reid Bosward of Kaesler is
the consulting winemaker for this project. (Epicurean Wines, Seattle, WA)
W
Winner's Tank | Shiraz Langhorne Creek
01 Sep 2009
91/100
2006
UWS: 90/100
Barossabased winemaker Reid Bosward crafts this lush, opulent Shiraz from Langhorne Creek. Bold blueberry and
blackberry flavors are soft and pillowy in texture, picking up brushes of chocolate and asphalt on the finish.
Inky purple. Exotically perfumed aromas of fresh blackberry, mulberry and mocha, accented by violet and
sandalwood. Lush, impressively sweet dark berry flavors verge on jammy but maintain energy thanks to lively
minerality. Finegrained tannins build on the long, juicy finish. Extremely impressive for the price and utterly
delicious right now. (Epicurean Wines, Seattle, WA)
W
Winner's Tank | Shiraz Langhorne Creek
01 Jul 2007
90/100
2008
225
Red Wines Australia
UWS: 90/100
A perennial Best Buy, Winner's Tank's 2008 Shiraz is a glasscoating opaque purple. It exhibits an excellent nose of
violets, incense, blueberry, and blackberry. Layered on the palate with succulent flavors, this smoothtextured,
lengthy effort will offer pleasure over the next 45 years.
Opaque ruby. Ripe but youthfully clenched aromas of cherry compote, singed plum and dark chocolate, lifted by
pepper and gingerbread notes. Rich, deep and seductively lush, with enticingly sweet dark berry fruit and a
mouthfilling texture that's rare for a wine at this price point. Suave and expansive, finishing with gently sweet
tannins and spicy building length.
W
01 Sep 2009
Yalumba | Barossa Valley Shiraz / Viognier
90/100
2005
UWS: 90/100
A fragrant bouquet, then an array of cherry, plum, licorice and spice on the flowing, fruitdriven, mediumbodied
palate. Cork.
28 Apr 2011
92/100
Viognier gives both the florals and the tannins a lift in this clean, refreshing red. The fruit is grapey and blunt at
first, but it responds to air with bright scents of red berries and green herbs. Decant this for longsmoked pork ribs.
01 Feb 2008
89/100
Yalumba is Australia's champion of Viognier, and in this case it's cofermented with Shiraz to make a wonderfully
savory, spicy wine that marries raspberry aromas with just a hint of apricot. Tart berry fruit serves as a
counterpoint to the soft tannins and creamy texture. Drink now2010.
The 2005 Shiraz & Viognier (5%) spent 17 months in French and American hogsheads, 10% new. Purplecolored, it
has a reticent bouquet of violets, earth, plum, and blueberry. This leads to a firm, fullbodied wine with layers of
fruit, light tannins, and 23 years of aging potential. Drink this tasty wine through 2012. This wine is an excellent
value.
31 Oct 2007
88/100
The 2005 Shiraz/Viognier exhibits the uplifted, tropical fruit fragrance that comes from the Viognier component as
well as Shiraz's blackberry and cherry scents. Mediumbodied and pure, it is ideal for current consumption.
31 Oct 2006
87/100
Polished and round, this is appealing for its delicately floral berry and dried apricot flavors, finishing with smooth
tannins. Drink now through 2011. 5,500 cases imported. HS
15 Oct 2007
88/100
Mellow and very lively on the nose. Not especially heavy or 'thick'. Pretty good though not distinctive.
Y
Coriole Vineyards | Shiraz McLaren Vale
13 Oct 2006
17/20
2004
UWS: 90/100
Strong, deep redpurple; rich, dark plum, blackberry, bitter chocolate and spice; oak wellhandled; brighter than
most on the finish. Cork.
28 Apr 2011
94/100
This impressively dark, fullbodied Shiraz appears to be in a bit of a closed phase, to judge by its present muted
aromatics. Firm and shut down on the finish, this should reveal more blackberry and coffee flavors after 2008.
01 Feb 2007
89/100
01 Feb 2007
85/100
Firm, chewy and packed with herbscented blackberry and currant flavors, hinting at licorice as the finish lingers.
226
Needs cellaring to soften the tannins. Best after 2008. 4,000 cases made. HS
30 Sep 2006
UWS: 90/100
Strong, deep redpurple; rich, dark plum, blackberry, bitter chocolate and spice; oak wellhandled; brighter than
most on the finish. Cork.
Red Wines Australia
94/100
28 Apr 2011
This impressively dark, fullbodied Shiraz appears to be in a bit of a closed phase, to judge by its present muted
aromatics. Firm and shut down on the finish, this should reveal more blackberry and coffee flavors after 2008.
01 Feb 2007
89/100
01 Feb 2007
85/100
Firm, chewy and packed with herbscented blackberry and currant flavors, hinting at licorice as the finish lingers.
Needs cellaring to soften the tannins. Best after 2008. 4,000 cases made. HS
87/100
30 Sep 2006
A fragrant, almost heady perfume of spicy, peppery small red and black berries reveals attractive floral and lightly
meaty undertones. Long, supple and silkysmooth, the vibrant, juicy palate presents a pristine spectrum of small
berry flavour backed by nuances of spice and carefully handled oak. Framed by particularly tight tannins, this wine
offers exceptional value. oMcLaren Vale, $28 retail, approx., 17.9/92, drink 20092012+)
C
01 Jul 2006
d'Arenberg Wines | McLaren Vale Shiraz The Footbolt
17,9/20
2007
UWS: 90/100
Holding hue well; a very honest wine on both bouquet and palate, with black and red fruits plus tannins; dips
slightly on the backpalate. Screwcap.
89/100
28 Apr 2011
This is a lovely Shiraz at a great price. It delivers blueberry and espresso on the nose, then expands on those themes
in the mouth, providing a pleasant interplay of sweet and savory. It's creamy in texture without being soft, and
finishes with commendable length.
The 2007 The Footbolt Shiraz which spent 20 months in French and American oak offers fragrant aromas of wood
smoke, game, and blueberry. Layered and balanced, it will evolve for several years and drink well through 2019.
The d'Arenberg portfolio is loaded with values. The winery works with over 140 growers to fashion their superb
blends. For the 2008 vintage, the entrylevel The Stump Jump series has been expanded.
Firm and chewy, with a menthol note weaving through the dark berry and wet stone aromas and flavors, finishing
solid. Best after 2010. 12,000 cases imported. HS
87/100
15 Oct 2009
Deep ruby. Pungent aromas of dark berry preserves, licorice and potpourri. Sweet, borderlinejammy black and
blue fruit flavors provide very good palate coverage and are firmed by supple tannins. Finishes sweet, strong and
persistent; this is already drinking well.
90/100
01 Jul 2009
Firmly structured and sinewy, with a slightly baked presence of dark plums, berries and redcurrants coupled with
restrained cedar/vanilla oak and lifted by a spicy presence of cloves and nutmeg. It begins with intense, ripe dark
fruits, but winds up fractionally early, with a slightly angular, metallic and salty finish.o16.4/88, YTD 20122015+)
d'
De Lisio Wines | McLaren Vale Quarterback Proprietary Red
24 Jun 2009
16,4/20
2007
UWS: 90/100
Last year I was shown four De Lisio wines, this year only the entry level 2007 Quarterback, a sign of the times in a
microcosm. The wine is a blend of 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 26% Shiraz, and 17% Grenache aged for
15 months in seasoned French oak. Dark ruby in color, it delivers an enticing bouquet of floral notes, spice box,
black cherry, and blueberry. Fullbodied, ripe, and sweetlyfruited on the palate, it manages to retain a sense of
elegance. This lengthy blend has enough structure to evolve for 12 years but there is no reason to delay your
gratification. It is also an excellent value.
D
Fox Creek | Shiraz McLaren Vale Red Baron
2007
227
Red Wines Australia
UWS: 90/100
Ripe, dark and full of mocha and fruitcake aromas; clean and well made, with a bright core of juicy black fruits on
the mediumbodied palate; soft, supple and easy. Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
90/100
28 Feb 2009
89/100
Value reds $20 and under .Tasted and recommended, but no tasting note given
Fo
Gemtree Vineyards | McLaren Vale Cadenzia
2007
UWS: 90/100
Grenachetempranillo and shiraz. Sweet cherry liqueur, freshly turned earth, baked red fruit, sweetspicy oak
character and generous alcohol. Tannins are a bit woolly, give this another 2 to 3 years to reach its peak. Allinall,
a lovely, savoury style.
28 Jan 2012
89/100
Good colour; a mediumbodied, bright and vibrant wine, the left field blend (expected of Cadenzia) working well;
there is a distinct juicy red tang to the palate, contributed in part by the tempranillo; long finish. Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
93/100
Dark and spicy, with licorice and smoke flavors around a lean core of dark berry, finishing a tad hot. Grenache,
Tempranillo and Shiraz. Best after 2010. 700 cases made. HS
28 Apr 2011
86/100
The twist here is the inclusion of Tempranillo in the blend, resulting in a uniformly dark, plummy wine, amply
framed by toasty oak. It's full bodied and lushly textured on the palate, then firms up and adds some spice on the
finish. Drink now2017.
G
Gemtree Vineyards | McLaren Vale Cadenzia
01 Oct 2010
90/100
2008
UWS: 92/100
Bright crimson; an intensely fragrant array of red fruits and warm spices, then an equally intense palate of red fruits
and notes of citrus (probably ex the Tempranillo). An exuberant wine. Screwcap.
G
Gemtree Vineyards | McLaren Vale Shiraz Uncut
28 Apr 2011
92/100
2008
UWS: 91/100
Deep, dense colour; regional licorice and dark chocolate overtones to the blackberry fruit of the bouquet leap from
the glass, the medium to fullbodied palate providing more of the same, with 16 months in French oak doing little
more than rounding off the tannins. Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
95/100
Fullbodied almost to the point of excess, this boldly flavored Shiraz features hints of tar and cola on the nose, but
more mainstream flavors of blackberries and vanilla on the palate. Savory, meaty nuances provide just enough
complexity, folding in hints of maple syrup on the finish. Drink now2014.
01 Feb 2011
90/100
Firm and focused, this is generous with its blackberry, licorice and cherry flavors, lingering against fine tannins on
the deft finish. Drink now through 2014. 6,000 cases made. HS
30 Jun 2010
89/100
The 2008 Uncut Shiraz spent 16 months in 100% new, predominantly French oak before bottling without fining or
filtration. Captivating aromas of sandalwood, smoked meat, incense, lavender, blueberry, and chocolate lead to a
layered, fullbodied, succulent Shiraz with excellent grip and length. Enjoy this pleasurebent effort over the next 8
Published byfruit
90pluswines.com
228
10 years. Gemtree makes wine from estategrown
(as they move toward fully biodynamic and organic
farming). Gemtree also manages 1500 acres for other growers and sells some of their own grapes to other wineries.
Fullbodied almost to the point of excess, this boldly flavored Shiraz features hints of tar and cola on the nose, but
more mainstream flavors of blackberries and vanilla on the palate. Savory, meaty nuances provide just enough
complexity, folding in hints of maple syrup on the finish. Drink now2014.
90/100
01 Feb 2011
Firm and focused, this is generous with its blackberry, licorice and cherry flavors, lingering against fine tannins on
the deft finish. Drink now through 2014. 6,000 cases made. HS
Red Wines Australia
89/100
30 Jun 2010
The 2008 Uncut Shiraz spent 16 months in 100% new, predominantly French oak before bottling without fining or
filtration. Captivating aromas of sandalwood, smoked meat, incense, lavender, blueberry, and chocolate lead to a
layered, fullbodied, succulent Shiraz with excellent grip and length. Enjoy this pleasurebent effort over the next 8
10 years. Gemtree makes wine from estategrown fruit (as they move toward fully biodynamic and organic
farming). Gemtree also manages 1500 acres for other growers and sells some of their own grapes to other wineries.
However, their focus appears to be on making quality wine as the new Gemtree collection is filled with outstanding
value from top to bottom.
G
Hugo Winery | Shiraz McLaren Vale
2006
UWS: 90/100
The purplecolored 2006 Shiraz was aged in American oak. Aromas of cedar, spice box, smoked meat, and blueberry
lead to an elegant rendition of Shiraz. It has lively acidity, savory flavors, good balance, and a mediumlong finish.
It can be enjoyed over the next 57 years. Both of the above wines were produced from Hugo Estate's own
vineyards, the oldest of which was planted in 1950.
Distinctly peppery, with the aromatics and flavor of freshly ground black pepper weaving through the dark berry
and currant flavors. Lingers with freshness and vitality. Drink now through 2016. 400 cases imported. HS
H
Kangarilla Road | Cabernet Sauvignon McLaren Vale
91/100
31 Jul 2009
2006
UWS: 91/100
Immediately proclaims its regional origin with dark chocolate overtones to quite luscious black and redcurrant fruit;
lovely mouthfeel; great value. Screwcap.
94/100
28 Apr 2011
Focused and generous with its blueberry and currant fruit, nicely framed with hints of mineral and spice, finishing
with a creamy texture. Drink now through 2011. 3,000 cases imported. HS
88/100
30 Apr 2009
Liquorice and tarragon nose. Cedary spice and tangy mouthwatering blackcurrant fruit. Real lift and vivacity. (TC)
09 Feb 2009
16,5/20
Fullbodied and youthfully tannic, but quite promising, this wine features a big core of cassis fruit and plenty of oak
derived embellishment. It's not herbal, but not pruny either, hitting the sweet spot between under and overripe.
Good now, but should hold through at least 2013.
K
Kangarilla Road | Cabernet Sauvignon McLaren Vale
01 Feb 2008
90/100
2007
UWS: 90/100
Savoury, brooding black fruits leave no doubt about variety or region, but the elegant, fine tannins on the finish are
an unexpected pleasure. Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
92/100
Starts out fresh and fruity, with loads of raspberry, boysenberry and strawberry fruit but turns a bit jammy in the
mouth. Finishes on a lingering note of mixed berry pie. Drink now.
01 Jun 2010
88/100
Soft and ripe, offering pretty flavors of cherry, raspberry and fresh herbs that linger delicately. Drink now through
28 Feb 2010
88/100
The purplecolored 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon exhibits a fragrant nose of cedar, leather, black currant, blackberry,
and plum. This leads to a mediumbodied wine with plenty of savory fruit, spice notes, enough structure to evolve for
35 years, and a lengthy, pure finish. It will offer
primebydrinking
between 2012 and 2025.
Published
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229
28 Feb 2009
90/100
28 Apr 2011
92/100
Starts out fresh and fruity, with loads of raspberry, boysenberry and strawberry fruit but turns a bit jammy in the
mouth. Finishes on a lingering note of mixed berry pie. Drink now.
Red Wines Australia
01 Jun 2010
88/100
Soft and ripe, offering pretty flavors of cherry, raspberry and fresh herbs that linger delicately. Drink now through
28 Feb 2010
88/100
The purplecolored 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon exhibits a fragrant nose of cedar, leather, black currant, blackberry,
and plum. This leads to a mediumbodied wine with plenty of savory fruit, spice notes, enough structure to evolve for
35 years, and a lengthy, pure finish. It will offer prime drinking between 2012 and 2025.
K
Marquee Wine | Shiraz McLaren Vale Signature
28 Feb 2009
90/100
2007
UWS: 90/100
A ripe, fleshy style, but not heavy at all, with rich currant, plum and blueberry fruit that sails over a bed of fine
tannins and picks up licorice, smoke and meat notes on the long finish. Drink now through 2015. 314 cases made.
HS
28 Apr 2011
91/100
Marked by violetlike scents and touches of peppercured meat, this is an intriguing Shiraz. It's full bodied and
creamy in texture, with flavors of blackberry liqueur and licorice. Its only failing is that it seems to fade a bit quickly
on the finish. Drink this luscious Shiraz over the next year or two.
M
Mr Riggs Wine Company | McLaren Vale Shiraz The Gaffer
01 Feb 2011
88/100
2007
UWS: 90/100
Has some curious smoky, spicy aromas, most likely from whatever oak medium has been used; the texture is gently
chewy, the balance very good. Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
89/100
Fullbodied and creamytextured, this is something of an archetypal Australian Shiraz, loaded with berry fruit. Yet
there's also enough tar and coffee complexities to keep you coming back for sip after sip, and a long, mouthwatering
finish. Drink now2015.
01 Oct 2009
90/100
Deep ruby. Smoky blackberry and cola aromas are complicated by black pepper, anise and dried flowers. Firm,
tightly wound dark berry flavors gain sweetness with air, taking a turn to brighter raspberry and offering a zesty
mineral quality. The finish is spicy and seductively sweet, leaving tangy red and dark berry skin and licorice notes
behind. (Epicurean Wines, Seattle, WA)
01 Sep 2009
90/100
Plush, ripe and distinctive for its floral overtones, offering violet and carnation aromatics over a solid core of
boysenberry and bright plum flavors, lingering on the sharpedged finish. Drink now through 2015. 10,000 cases
made. HS
30 Apr 2009
90/100
The purplecolored 2007 Shiraz The Gaffer spent 12 months in a mix of new and used French oak. The nose reveals
wood smoke, spice box, pencil lead, mineral, and blueberry. Structured on the palate, it will require 23 years to
unwind and fillout in the finish. At that point, my score may appear conservative. These are three topnotch
releases from talented winemaker Ben Riggs. Mr. Riggs, pictured on the label, is Ben's tribute to his great
grandfather who converted the previously soberminded family into wine imbibers.
M
O'Leary Walker | Shiraz Clare Valley-McLaren Vale
28 Feb 2009
89/100
2008
UWS: 91/100
Dark crimsonpurple; the bouquet immediately signals the synergy of the blend, a message reinforced by the medium
to fullbodied palate; the black fruits and a touch of licorice inhabit the midpalate, before a delicious juicy and
spicy twist on the finish. Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
95/100
The 2008 Shiraz is produced from fruit coming from Clare Valley (70%) and McLaren Vale (30%). Very deep garnet
purple colored, it presents intense blackberry,
blackby
cherry,
floral, mocha and dried mint aromas. Crisp, structured
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230
with mediumfirm fine tannins, this full bodied wine has a pleasantly savory character combined with the dark berry
UWS: 91/100
Red Wines Australia
Dark crimsonpurple; the bouquet immediately signals the synergy of the blend, a message reinforced by the medium
to fullbodied palate; the black fruits and a touch of licorice inhabit the midpalate, before a delicious juicy and
spicy twist on the finish. Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
95/100
The 2008 Shiraz is produced from fruit coming from Clare Valley (70%) and McLaren Vale (30%). Very deep garnet
purple colored, it presents intense blackberry, black cherry, floral, mocha and dried mint aromas. Crisp, structured
with mediumfirm fine tannins, this full bodied wine has a pleasantly savory character combined with the dark berry
fruit on the palate, giving a long finish with just an edge of bitterness. Drink it now to 2015.
31 Oct 2010
88/100
Opaque purple. Fresh blueberry and cherry on the nose. Jammy dark berry flavors are round and nicely focused,
with a hint of white pepper adding vivacity. Plump, easygoing and tanninfree shiraz with building sweetness toward
the back. Finishes pliant and sappy, with good clarity and a lingering blackberry quality. (The Wine Angel, New
York, NY)
O'
01 Jul 2010
Paxton | Shiraz-Grenache McLaren Vale AAA
89/100
2005
UWS: 90/100
Has the richness and texture which is largely unique to McLaren Vale for this blend; blackberry shiraz, red cherry
grenache; very good balance and finish. Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
94/100
28 Apr 2011
17/20
The 2005 AAA Shiraz Grenache is 70% Shiraz and 30% Grenache. It spent 10 months in 15% new French and
American oak. Medium rubycolored, it has a pleasant perfume of spice box, kirsch, and mulberry. Suppletextured
and forward, this easygoing wine is meant for drinking over the next 4 years.
31 Oct 2007
85/100
Ripe and generous. Not a huge wine, but opentextured and appealing for its dark berry, roasted red pepper and
spice flavors, lingering on the slightly gritty finish. Best after 2007. 1,500 cases made. HS
15 Oct 2007
89/100
Dark red. Powerful, very ripe aromas of blackberry, cassis, dark chocolate, dried flowers and espresso. Then fresher
and brighter on the palate, with suggestions of plum jam and kirsch Lush, supple and long, showing a distinct
raspberry liqueur tone on the back, and finishing with silky tannins.
Pa
Pertaringa Wines | McLaren Vale Shiraz Over The Top
01 Jul 2006
89/100
2003
UWS: 90/100
An unusual mix of mocha, milk and dark chocolate is the driving force. While obviously regional, more black fruits
needed. Cork.
Pe
28 Apr 2011
90/100
2007
UWS: 90/100
Medium to fullbodied, and strongly regional, black fruits interwoven with dark chocolate and a twist of licorice;
has good length and carries the alcohol well. ProCork.
Pe
28 Apr 2011
90/100
2008
UWS: 90/100
Undoubtedly concentrated bouquet, dominated by confiture black fruits and licorice; ample sweet fruit and chewy
tannins are the order of the day. ProCork. Published by 90pluswines.com
231
28 Apr 2011
89/100
Red Wines Australia
UWS: 90/100
Undoubtedly concentrated bouquet, dominated by confiture black fruits and licorice; ample sweet fruit and chewy
tannins are the order of the day. ProCork.
28 Apr 2011
89/100
2008 Over the Top Shiraz has a very deep garnetpurple hue and pronounced blackberry, damp earth, black truffle,
slightly burnt toast and Indian spice aromas. Crisp, ripe and full in the mouth, firm, coarse tannins slightly dominate
the palate at the moment, giving dryness to the otherwise long, layered finish. Give it another year or two in bottle
and drink to 2017+. No known USA importer.
eRobertParker.com © (WA) 31 Dec 2010 90+/100
2008 Over the Top Shiraz has a very deep garnetpurple hue and pronounced blackberry, damp earth, black truffle,
slightly burnt toast and Indian spice aromas. Crisp, ripe and full in the mouth, firm, coarse tannins slightly dominate
the palate at the moment, giving dryness to the otherwise long, layered finish. Give it another year or two in bottle
and drink to 2017+. No known USA importer.
eRobertParker.com © (WA), Lisa PerrottiBrown 31 Dec 2010 90+/100
Pe
Pertaringa Wines | McLaren Vale Shiraz Undercover
2008
UWS: 90/100
Medium to fullbodied the bouquet is brimming with mocha, licorice and black fruits; the palate is full of fleshy
fruits, with the chewy tannin bringing up the rear; regional and well balanced. Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
92/100
Very deep garnetpurple in color, the 2008 Undercover Shiraz has pronounced mulberry, warm blueberry and dark
chocolate notes with an undercurrent of mace, anise and espresso. Rich and full, it offers mediumfirm chunky
tannins and refreshing acidity that gives lift long into the finish. Drinking now, it should cellar to 2016. No known
USA importer.
Pe
Razor's Edge | McLaren Vale Grenache / Shiraz
2006
UWS: 91/100
Polished, round and expressive. A gorgeous mouthful of ripe blackberry, plum, cherry and exotic spices, with hints
of leather and brown sugar nibbling at the edge. The finish rolls on and on against superfine tannins. Drink now
through 2016. 5,000 cases imported. HS
Ra
Slipstream | Grenache McLaren Vale
31 Jul 2008
91/100
2006
UWS: 90/100
Silky in texture, with pretty blackberry and cherry flavors at the core, persisting into the long, vivid finish. Has
shades of white pepper and something like arugula on the finish, which is weird but pleasant. Drink now through
2012. 500 cases made. HS
15 Oct 2008
90/100
The red wines commence with the 2006 Grenache, sourced from a 70 year old vineyard and aged for 16 months in
neutral French oak. Dark rubycolored, it has an expressive bouquet of kirsch, garrigue, seaweed, and a hint of
iodine. It is medium to fullbodied, smoothtextured, and seamless with potential longevity of 810 years. It is an
excellent value. Slipstream is the negociant label of importer Ben Hammerschlag.
Vivid red color. Intensely spicy bouquet of wild strawberry, raspberry, cinnamon and fivespice powder. Fresh,
energetic red berry flavors verge on sweet but are reined in by zesty minerality and firmed by youthful tannins.
Nervy red fruits dominate the long, focused finish. The tannins here are completely invisible.
01 Jul 2008
90/100
232
The red wines commence with the 2006 Grenache, sourced from a 70 year old vineyard and aged for 16 months in
neutral French oak. Dark rubycolored, it has an expressive bouquet of kirsch, garrigue, seaweed, and a hint of
iodine. It is medium to fullbodied, smoothtextured, and seamless with potential longevity of 810 years. It is an
excellent value. Slipstream is the negociant label of importer Ben Hammerschlag.
Red Wines Australia
Vivid red color. Intensely spicy bouquet of wild strawberry, raspberry, cinnamon and fivespice powder. Fresh,
energetic red berry flavors verge on sweet but are reined in by zesty minerality and firmed by youthful tannins.
Nervy red fruits dominate the long, focused finish. The tannins here are completely invisible.
Sli
Slipstream | McLaren Vale Shiraz Fastback
01 Jul 2008
90/100
2006
UWS: 91/100
Inky, youthful purple. Impressively complex bouquet of boysenberry, anise, baking spices, rose and lavender. Supple
dark berry flavors offer serious palatecoating texture and are enlivened by zesty minerality. Combines richness and
energy with a deft hand, finishing with very good clinging persistence. These wines are made by Ben Glaetzer, with
the exception of the grenache component of the previous wine, which was made by Stephen Pannell. (Epicurean
Wines, Seattle, WA)
01 Jul 2008
91/100
Ripe, focused cherry and blackberry flavors buzz with extra orange peel, mint and spice overtones as they zing
through the long, vivid finish. The tannins are beautifully integrated. Best from 2010 through 2016. 800 cases made.
HS
30 Jun 2008
91/100
The 2006 Shiraz The Fastback was tasted just prior to bottling. The fruit was sourced from Ben Hammerschlag's
vineyard and was aged for 16 months in used French oak. Deep crimsoncolored, it has an enticing nose of mineral,
pencil lead, blueberry, and blackberry. Fullbodied yet elegantly styled, the black fruit flavors are quite intense but
narrow, and the finish moderately long. It will evolve for several years and may well fill out at which time my score
may appear conservative.
Sli
Tapestry | Shiraz McLaren Vale
2006
UWS: 90/100
01 Jul 2009
90/100
Smooth, velvety and opentextured, delivering a lovely mouthful of vivid currant, plum and white pepper flavors that
don't quit as the finish rolls on. Drink now through 2014. 8,000 cases made. HS
30 Apr 2009
90/100
Scents of anise and black cherry race over the weightier tannins in this wine. The structure is gentle, adding cocoa
richness to the fruit. The finish is smoky. For grilled lamb.
01 Feb 2009
89/100
233
Red Wines Australia
Ta
Hanwood | Cabernet Sauvignon South Eastern Australia
2006
UWS: 90/100
H
House of Seppelt | Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz South Eastern Australia
Moyston
28 Apr 2011
16/20
2003
UWS: 90/100
Mediumbodied; blackcurrant and blackberry fruit mix gaining complexity and structure from oak and tannins; solid
wine. Bendigo/Grampians/Pyrenees. Screwcap.
H
Paringa Estate | Shiraz South Eastern Australia
90/100
28 Apr 2011
2004
UWS: 93/100
89/100
28 Jan 2012
Elegant mediumbodied wine; a seamless balance of spicy cherry and blackberry fruit, oak and tannins; 6 trophies
Sydney Wine Show '06 including Best Wine of Show.
96/100
28 Apr 2011
Scented with violets, white pepper and spices, this firmish and oaky shiraz has a bouquet of ripe red and black
berries and dark chocolate. Fine, smooth and elegant, its moderately riuch expression of plum and berry flavour is
quite restrained and meaty, but should flesh out with time. Framed by finegrained tannins, it finishes long and
savoury. oMornington Peninsula, 17.4/91, drink 20092012+)
Pa
Shoofly | Shiraz South Eastern Australia
08 Jul 2006
17,4/20
2010
UWS: 90/100
Polished and supple, this is brimming with red berry, black cherry and delicate spice flavors, all coursing through
the expressive finish. Drink now through 2020. HS
Sh
Tyrrell's Wines | Shiraz South Eastern Australia Old Winery
2003
UWS: 90/100
Some minty edges to the fruit, but is firm and has some length.
28 Apr 2011
87/100
A well made, balanced and flavoursome shiraz whose dusty expression of peppery red berry and plumlike fruit is
backed by meaty, earthy undertones and light vanilla oak. There's a hint of leathery development, but the tightknit
and finely balanced palate delivers lively berry/plum flavours. oSouth Eastern Australia, $13 retail, approx.,
16.8/89, drink 20052008+)
234
Red Wines Australia
Tasmania
Ty
Moorilla Estate | Pinot Noir Tasmania
2002
UWS: 90/100
04 Oct 2012
15,8/20
Tightly structured and quite distinctive; dark plum, spice and a twist of acidity, still to loosen up.
M
Moorilla Estate | Pinot Noir Tasmania
28 Apr 2011
90/100
2005
UWS: 90/100
Strong colour; plenty of depth and power to the black plum and spice flavours; long palate, sustained acidity.
Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
90/100
A topnotch offering, Moorilla's 2005 Pinot Noir shows the potential of this variety in coolclimate Tasmania. Cola
and black cherry scnets ride easily above a vaguely mushroomy backdrop, and although the flavors are earthy and
feature plenty of sousbois notes, they're balanced by ripe black cherry fruit. It's round and soft, with a silky
lingering finish and framed by welljudged oak that never intrudes on the overall picture. Imported by USA Wine
Imports, Inc.
01 Jun 2007
90/100
Light red. Spicy raspberry and strawberry aromas, along with a hint of white pepper. Energetic and precise, the
lively red berry flavors showing good nerve and a light mineral touch. Finishes sweet, juicy and persistent, the fresh,
pure strawberry note building on the aftertaste.
01 Jul 2006
89/100
235
Red Wines Australia
Victoria
M
Austins | Shiraz Geelong
2003
UWS: 90/100
Rich, ripe and luscious but not too jammy; excellent mouthfeel, notwithstanding a touch of adjusted acidity.
A
Austins | Shiraz Geelong
28 Apr 2011
90/100
2004
UWS: 90/100
Mediumbodied; excellent texture, structure and weight; blackberry fruits with touches of spice and chocolate.
Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
92/100
This has a loamy note running through the meaty cherry flavors, lingering subtly on the finegrained finish. Best
from 2008 through 2012. 1,500 cases made. HS
A
Clayfield Wines | Victoria Shiraz Grampians
15 Oct 2007
89/100
2002
UWS: 90/100
Very ripe, essency blackberry and blackcurrant aromas; similar jammy fruit; no alcohol heat (only 14.5°); perhaps
grape shrivel. High quality cork.
28 Apr 2011
91/100
Violettinged ruby. Hightoned floral, smoked meat and bitter cherry aromas, with a pungent, peaty earth note. Firm
on the palate, with a carnal, earthy, raw meat quality to complement the sweet dark berry and cherry flavors, which
are nicely framed by fresh pepper and silky tannins. The musky, sweet underbrush and cassis qualities linger on the
finish.(WeygandtMetzler Importing,Unionville PA
Cl
Cooralook Wines | Heathcote Shiraz
01 Jul 2005
90/100
2007
UWS: 90/100
Bright hue; an elegant mediumbodied wine with dark cherry, plum, tobacco and spice aromas and flavours; the
palate is fresh and lively, the finish clean. Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
91/100
The 2007 Shiraz from Heathcote is an absolute bargain at this price. Possessing a deep garnet color and earthy /
gamey notes surrounding a core of warm blackberry and black pepper, this is a very well balanced, mediumbodied
style. A medium level of fine tannins and high acidity structure the fleshy fruit and support the long spicy finish.
Drinking now, it should continue to give pleasure until 2015. Cooralook is a range of well priced wines developed
by Yabby Lake Winery, which has branched out from Mornington Peninsula to produce regionally expressive wines
from the Strathbogie Ranges and Heathcote. Adeptly forged by winemaker Tom Carson, formerly of Yering Station,
these wines offer very good value.
30 Jun 2010
90/100
Cooralook is making very good wines at affordable prices, and this Shiraz is in the same vein. It's immediately
approachable, offering crisp raspberry fruit tinged with herbalgrassybriary notes and a softly dusty finish. It's an
easy sipper that won't overpower most dishes.
01 Feb 2010
87/100
Here's a steal: A cool river of red cherry and strawberry richness, tart, gamey and pleasantly oldfashioned in style.
Published
by for
90pluswines.com
236
The red fruit deepens to darker plum in the finish.
Ready
roast quail with chestnut stuffing.
01 Oct 2009
91/100
style. A medium level of fine tannins and high acidity structure the fleshy fruit and support the long spicy finish.
Drinking now, it should continue to give pleasure until 2015. Cooralook is a range of well priced wines developed
by Yabby Lake Winery, which has branched out from Mornington Peninsula to produce regionally expressive wines
from the Strathbogie Ranges and Heathcote. Adeptly forged by winemaker Tom Carson, formerly of Yering Station,
these wines offer very good value.
Red Wines Australia
30 Jun 2010
90/100
Cooralook is making very good wines at affordable prices, and this Shiraz is in the same vein. It's immediately
approachable, offering crisp raspberry fruit tinged with herbalgrassybriary notes and a softly dusty finish. It's an
easy sipper that won't overpower most dishes.
01 Feb 2010
87/100
Here's a steal: A cool river of red cherry and strawberry richness, tart, gamey and pleasantly oldfashioned in style.
The red fruit deepens to darker plum in the finish. Ready for roast quail with chestnut stuffing.
C
01 Oct 2009
Dalwhinnie Wines | Victoria Cabernet Sauvignon
91/100
2000
UWS: 92/100
01 Feb 2004
94/100
The smoky, herbal, earthy 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon reveals notes of leather and black currants. Opaque
ruby/purplecolored, elegant, nicelyetched, medium to fullbodied, and stylish, it should drink well for a decade.
Firm, ripe and longterm central Victorian red with sweet aromas of fresh raspberries, candied cherries, vanilla and
cedary oak. Ripe without being overcooked, its slightly jammy palate of bright berry flavours is backed by a
powerful, balanced but rodlike spine of tannins and reveals spicy clovelike and menthol complexity. 17.0, drink
Deep redruby. Intense cassis and dark plum, herbal and violet aromas, with suggestions of cool mint and cedary
oak. Robust, multilayered palate wrapped around firm but approachable and almost silky tannins, with sharply
focused, vibrant flavors of dark berries and plum. One of the finer cabernets to come from this maker.
D
01 Jul 2002
de Bortoli Wines | Cabernet Sauvignon Yarra Valley
89/100
1994
UWS: 91/100
04 Oct 2012
16,700001/20
Medium purplered; a fragrant mix of cassis and more leafy fruit interwoven with subtle oak; the palate proclaims
cool climate Cabernet with a Bordeauxlike mix of cedar, cassis, earth and leaf, closing with fine tannins.
de
28 Apr 2011
90/100
1995
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
28 Sep 2011
3/5
Medium to full redpurple; there is an attractive spicy/nutmeg/earthy edge to sweet dark berry fruit on the bouquet.
Neither the bouquet nor the palate show any green herbaceous characters whatsoever, but the coolgrown origins
come through in the blackcurrant and mintflavoured palate. Supported by wellhanded oak throughout.
de
28 Apr 2011
91/100
1999
UWS: 90/100
Medium to full redpurple; the bouquet is clean, with ripe blackberry/earth varietal character; the palate is similar,
with slightly austere blackberry fruit, the cedary oak wellbalanced and integrated.
28 Apr 2011
88/100
Thoroughly competent and approachable cabernet from a warmish Yarra vintage whose intense red plum and
blackberry fruit is wrapped up in big smoky mocha barrel ferment flavours and creamy textures. There's a hint of
cabernet herbaceousness and the palate is just a trifle thin for higher points. o16.7, Drink 20042007, $29 retail,
approx.)
237
UWS: 90/100
Medium to full redpurple; the bouquet is clean, with ripe blackberry/earth varietal character; the palate is similar,
with slightly austere blackberry fruit, the cedary oak wellbalanced and integrated.
Red Wines Australia
28 Apr 2011
88/100
Thoroughly competent and approachable cabernet from a warmish Yarra vintage whose intense red plum and
blackberry fruit is wrapped up in big smoky mocha barrel ferment flavours and creamy textures. There's a hint of
cabernet herbaceousness and the palate is just a trifle thin for higher points. o16.7, Drink 20042007, $29 retail,
approx.)
de
2003
UWS: 90/100
Not starbright; savoury, earthy edges to firm blackcurrant fruit; off the pace for this wine. Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
89/100
An ageing, slightly meaty and cedary cabernet whose delicate, slightly cigarboxy bouquet of dark berries and plums
has a background of undergrowth and green olives. Moderately firm and slightly greenedged, its earthy expression
of blackberries and plums is framed by firm and powdery tannins. It's a little gritty and could use more intensity,
polish and finesse. oYarra Valley, 16/87, drink 20082011)
de
de Bortoli Wines | Shiraz Victoria Windy Peak
12 Oct 2007
16/20
2006
UWS: 90/100
A delicious and fragrant lightbodied wine, bursting with juicy red fruits, simply demanding to be opened on any
pretence and in any company. Screwcap.
de
de Bortoli Wines | Shiraz Yarra Valley Gulf Station
28 Apr 2011
90/100
2000
UWS: 90/100
Rich, complex dark berry and earthy fruit aromas are followed by a concentrated and weighty palate of ripe blood
plums, finishing with fine tannins. Subtle oak throughout.
de
28 Apr 2011
90/100
2003
UWS: 90/100
A powerful and rich mix of black fruits and spices; plenty of tannins for the long haul; subtle oak. Cork.
de
28 Apr 2011
90/100
2006
UWS: 90/100
Highly scented and spicy; vibrant and mediumbodied, with clarionclear line and length to its effusive red fruits,
fine tannins and subtle oak. Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
94/100
Very lifted nose. Then very dry finish with some slightly mean fruit in the middle. Tastes a bit taut and introvert.
Jancis Robinson © (JR) 21 Dec 2009 16/20
(a 95/5 blend) Bright ruby. Seductive, impressively complex bouquet evokes raspberry, cassis, violet and olive
tapenade. Clean and sharply focused, offering sweet red and dark berry flavors and a suave undercurrent of smoky
minerals. Finishes with excellent clarity and refreshingly bitter berry skin flavors. There's an understated quality
and an element of energy to this wine that are very appealing.
01 Sep 2008
91/100
Lithe and vibrant, with pretty floral overtones to the currant and plum flavors, hovering over the relatively delicate
by 90pluswines.com
238
finish. Drink now through 2013. 5,000 casesPublished
made. HS
29 Feb 2008
88/100
fine tannins and subtle oak. Screwcap.
94/100
28 Apr 2011
Very lifted nose. Then very dry finish with some slightly mean fruit in the middle. Tastes a bit taut and introvert.
Red Wines Australia
(a 95/5 blend) Bright ruby. Seductive, impressively complex bouquet evokes raspberry, cassis, violet and olive
tapenade. Clean and sharply focused, offering sweet red and dark berry flavors and a suave undercurrent of smoky
minerals. Finishes with excellent clarity and refreshingly bitter berry skin flavors. There's an understated quality
and an element of energy to this wine that are very appealing.
91/100
01 Sep 2008
Lithe and vibrant, with pretty floral overtones to the currant and plum flavors, hovering over the relatively delicate
finish. Drink now through 2013. 5,000 cases made. HS
88/100
29 Feb 2008
Forward and grapey, this is almost carbonic in its scents of violets and purple fruit. Serve slightly chilled with duck
rillettes.
de
86/100
01 Feb 2008
Domaine Terlato & Chapoutier | Victoria Shiraz / Viognier
2010
UWS: 90/100
Dark and spicy, with violet notes around the blackberry and mineral flavors, finishing with shades of pepper and
smoke. Drink now through 2016. HS
D
Lillydale | Cabernet-Merlot Yarra Valley
1998
UWS: 90/100
04 Oct 2012
16,700001/20
Medium redpurple; the clean, moderately intense, savoury bouquet precedes a palate where sweet berry fruit comes
at the core, surrounded by more savoury characters; gentle tannins and oak.
Li
87/100
28 Apr 2011
1999
UWS: 90/100
04 Oct 2012
16,799999/20
Light to medium redpurple; a light, leafy, spicy/cedary bouquet is followed by a palate with attractive raspberry
and redcurrant fruit at its core. A very impressive outcome for the vintage. Two gold medals in 2000 at Rutherlgen
and Melbourne wine shows.
Li
89/100
28 Apr 2011
2000
UWS: 90/100
04 Oct 2012
16,4/20
Medium to full redpurple; nicely ripened and quite sweet dark berry fruit aromas are reflected in the ripe,
blackberry and blackcurrantflavoured palate, supported by fine, ripe tannins.
Li
89/100
28 Apr 2011
2001
UWS: 91/100
04 Oct 2012
15,3/20
Elegant mediumbodied wine, developing at an appropriately leisurely pace; lovely fine tannins; still reminiscent of
Bordeaux. (First tasted Feb 03.)
28 Apr 2011
94/100
239
Red Wines Australia
UWS: 91/100
04 Oct 2012
15,3/20
Elegant mediumbodied wine, developing at an appropriately leisurely pace; lovely fine tannins; still reminiscent of
Bordeaux. (First tasted Feb 03.)
Li
28 Apr 2011
Mitchelton Wines | Goulburn Valley Shiraz
94/100
2009
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
M
Mount Langi Ghiran | Victoria Shiraz Billi Billi
29 Feb 2012
3/5
2000
UWS: 90/100
04 Oct 2012
17,799999/20
The 2000 Shiraz Billi Billi Creek exhibits abundant quantities of sweet, juicy, upfront blue and blackberry fruit, a
soft texture, and excellent purity. It is a fun Shiraz to drink over the next 34 years.
M
Mount Langi Ghiran | Victoria Shiraz Billi Billi
31 Oct 2002
87/100
2005
UWS: 90/100
Strong, deep purplered; abundant blackberry fruits; good structure, combining elegance with power; long finish.
Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
91/100
This offering from Mount Langi Ghiran displays trademark Syran notes of leather, roasted meat, cracked pepper
and violets, balanced by a foundation of cherry fruit. It's silky in texture and long on the finish, making it an
excellent wine and a superb value. Drink it over the next 45 years.
01 Feb 2011
91/100
Crisp and focused, with a gritty edge to the modestly proportioned blackberry and licorice flavors, lingering on the
opentextured finish. Best from 2010 through 2015. 16,000 cases made. HS
Medium red. Cedary red and blackcurrant, cherry and floral scents are underscored by mocha and minerals. Fresh
raspberry and blueberry flavors become sweeter with air and betray no tannins or rough edges. Seems quite
primary, fruitwise, with a crunchy berry skin character carrying through the finish. Leaves a tangy, slightly bitter
cherry pit quality behind, along with a subtle note of candied flowers. I'd drink this now for its vivacious fruit, but
there's freshness to burn.
01 Jul 2008
89/100
Spicy, peppery aromas of moderately intense dark fruits precede a restrained, elegant and finegrained palate.
Finishing rather savoury and meaty, it's lively and quite stylish, while its flavours of dark fruits, white pepper, cloves
and cinnamon are just fractionally hollow. oSouthern Victoria, $18 retail, approx., 16.2/87, drink 20072010)
M
Port Phillip Estate | Shiraz Mornington Peninsula
2004
UWS: 94/100
Medium to mediumfullbodied; has good structure, texture and mouthfeel to relatively sweet, spicy blackberry fruit;
skilled tannin and oak management. Diam.
Po
28 Apr 2011
94/100
2005
240
Red Wines Australia
UWS: 94/100
Expected strong purplered colour; firm and highly focused blackberry and plum fruit, the oak playing a perfectly
judged support role. Cork.
Po
94/100
28 Apr 2011
2006
UWS: 94/100
Bright crimson; a sparkling fresh bouquet and palate with an abundance of red fruits, spice and pepper; while only
mediumbodied, has great length and intensity. Diam.
Po
94/100
28 Apr 2011
Preece | Syrah Victoria
1999
UWS: 90/100
Pr
28 Apr 2011
Preece | Syrah Victoria
16/20
2000
UWS: 91/100
Pr
04 Oct 2012
Preece | Victoria Merlot
16,299999/20
1995
UWS: 90/100
04 Oct 2012
17,200001/20
Ripe, polished and distinctly fruity, with wild berry and raspberry flavors prominent. Finishes with style. 5,000 cases
made.
Wine Spectator © (WS) 15 May 1997 86/100
Pr
2000
UWS: 91/100
Pr
28 Apr 2011
16,5/20
2003
UWS: 91/100
There's great value in this minty central Victorian merlot, whose slightly gamey and reductive aromas of dark
cherries and plums are underpinned by suggestions of charcuterie and wood smoke. Smooth and supple, it's medium
to full in body, with a brightly lit and minty flavour profile wrapped in firmish, finegrained tannins. Finishes earthy
and savoury. oNagambie Lakes, $14 retail, approx., 16.4/88, drink 20052008+)
Pr
2005
241
Red Wines Australia
UWS: 90/100
Dark, minty and faintly eucalyptlike aromas of plums, cherries and blackberries with spicy undertones of cloves and
cinnamon precede a moderately intense and oaky palate whose sweet ripe minty fruit is underpinned by a dusty
spine of firmish tannins. It's a pleasing varietal that would have been marked higher if not for some rather
cardboardy oak. oCentral Victoria, $16 retail, approx., 16.0/87, drink 20072010+)
Pr
Rutherglen Estates | Red Rutherglen
17 Jul 2006
16/20
2005
UWS: 90/100
(85% shiraz and 15% petite sirah) Inky ruby. Powerful, deeply concentrated cherry and dark berry aromas are
complicated by cured tobacco and espresso. Liqueurlike in its dark fruit depth and sweetness but held together by
bitter chocolate and licorice qualities and solid tannins. This dense, broadshouldered blend needs hearty food.
88/100
01 Sep 2007
Earthy and spicy, scented with red cherries and plums, this meaty and varietal wine reveals nuances of earthiness
and undertones of leather. Slightly jammy, its smooth and elegant palate of dark cherries and berrylike fruit is
backed by finegrained tannin. Tight acids extend the palate length. A little grippy at present, but should flesh out
well. oRutherglen, $18 retail, approx., 16.5/88, drink 20072010+)
R
16,5/20
06 Feb 2007
Syan | Pyrenees Tradition
2003
UWS: 90/100
(a blend of 70% cabernet sauvignon and 15% each merlot and shiraz) Dark ruby. Red berry aromas enlivened by
clove, cinnamon and dark chocolate. Lush and suave in texture, with sweet red fruit flavors complicated by mocha
and succulent herbs. Finishes gently tannic, with good lift to the flavors of redcurrant and cherry. This is very tasty
right now.
01 Jul 2006
90/100
The 2003 Tradition, a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Shiraz, and 15% Merlot aged in American oak,
exhibits classic scents of black currants, mint, eucalyptus, licorice, smoke, and new oak. It is soft and fleshy with
decent acidity, an expansive mouthfeel, and a moderately long finish. It will last for 56 years.
Sy
31 Oct 2005
TarraWarra Estate | Pinot Noir Yarra Valley Tin Cows
89+/100
2006
UWS: 90/100
Bright colour; has an overall savoury/foresty cast, which is not a fault, but which takes the wine out of the flavour
and texture profile expected at this price point. Screwcap.
28 Apr 2011
90/100
242
Red Wines Australia
Western Australia
Ta
Brookland Valley Vineyards | Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot Margaret River
Verse 1
2008
UWS: 90/100
Redcurrant and cassis are complemented by varietal leafy notes; mediumbodied fleshy and forward with good
depth of flavour; an easy drinking blend, with an attractive level of complexity. Screwcap.
Br
28 Apr 2011
Casas Vineyards and Estate | Western Australia Cabernet Sauvignon
90/100
1999
UWS: 92/100
04 Oct 2012
16,799999/20
Dense redpurple; a powerful, deep blackcurrant and blackberry bouquet is followed by an ultrapowerful palate,
complex and concentrated, with chocolate and black fruits; balanced, but needs a decadeplus.
28 Apr 2011
94/100
An immensely impressive effort, the 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon (600 cases produced) was aged 26 months in French
oak, of which onethird was new. Made from a microscopic one to one and a half tons of fruit per acre, it admirably
conceals its lofty 15.7% alcohol. A dense purple color is followed by sweet aromas of smoky black currant liqueur
intermixed with mineral, earth, and licorice scents. Fullbodied yet impeccably balanced, this is a Cabernet
Sauvignon on steroids. Not surprisingly, the owner, John Casas, is a huge fan of Penfolds Grange. Look for this
1999 to age well for 1015 years. Interestingly, as the wine sat in the glass, a minty/eucalyptus character emerged.
Anticipated maturity: 20052016.
Ca
31 Oct 2002
Evans & Tate | Shiraz Margaret River
91/100
1994
UWS: 90/100
04 Oct 2012
18,299999/20
Fresh medium redpurple; the bouquet is fresh and clean, with bright fruit together with touches of spice and earth,
and subtle oak. As the bouquet promises, an attractive, clean, fresh and relatively youthful palate with pleasant
varietal fruit, but not a particularly complex structure.
Ev
28 Apr 2011
85/100
1996
UWS: 90/100
04 Oct 2012
17,200001/20
Full redpurple; the bouquet is dense, complex with distinctly gamey Rhône Valley boot polish and licorice aromas.
The palate is no less rich and concentrated, crammed full with ripe black cherry, licorice and spice flavours.
Remarkably uninhibited.
28 Apr 2011
92/100
Bright and jazzy, with raspberry and blackberry flavors and hints of mint and moss on the finish. Best from 1999
243
Red Wines Australia
Ev
2002
UWS: 90/100
An appealing dark, glossy wine, with plenty of character wafting up from the glass; ripe, berry fruit nose, with a
charred, confit cherry character. This is gorgeously seductive, in part due to the smoky, barrel ferment traits that are
present. Rich, creamy, warm enveloping texture, with a solid structure of peppery tannins beneath. Lots of fruit, and
a little length. Very appealing indeed; drink now and over the next few years to catch this one at its best.
Distinct spicy varietal fruit; lingering, focused palate; dark plum, blackberry, spice; ripe tannins.
91/100
28 Apr 2011
Decanter © (DC)
28 Apr 2011
3/5
Herb and bay leaf character predominates in this lean, peppery red. Drink now through 2006. 15,000 cases made.
HS
84/100
15 Sep 2004
Lightly smoky, peppery aromas of red and black plums and berries against a background of cedary oak. Restrained
and elegant, lacking any real punch, it's an honest if rather simple shiraz whose jammy berry flavours are offset by
sweet smoky oak and framed by slightly sappy tannins. o16.1, 20042007+)
Ev
02 Jul 2004
16,1/20
2003
UWS: 90/100
Tarry, rich, rewarding nose and lots of body and development. A very complete and satisfying wine without any
excessive heat or alcohol. Some freshness on the finish in fact. It became a bit sweet and chocolatey maybe a bit
too sweet?
22 Oct 2007
17,5/20
Shows more structure than most Australian Shiraz at this price point, its firm acidity and ample tannins framing
plum and vanilla flavors. Hints of eucalyptus, chocolate and coffee add complexity on the nose and finish. Drink now
2012.
01 Feb 2007
89/100
Smooth, focused and striving for elegance. Wild cherry and eucalyptus flavors at the core play deftly against fine
grained tannins as the finish sails on. Drink now through 2013. 10,000 cases made. HS
15 Oct 2006
90/100
Light, rather flat aromas of spicy red berries, cloves and cinnamon reveal earthy, meaty undertones. Medium to full
in weight, it's smooth but slightly hollow palate of plum and tomatolike fruit lacks real depth and focus. Framed by
rather raw and metallic tannins, it finishes slightly dilute. oMargaret River, $20 retail, approx., 15.4/84, drink 2005
2008+)
15 Jul 2006
15,4/20
244
Red Wines Chile
Casablanca Valley
Ev
Veramonte | Primus Casablanca Valley
1999
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
28 Sep 2011
4/5
The nose of this Augustin Huneeusmade wine shows soil, wood and a algaegreenness; the palate, blackberry and
oak. Mediumbodied; finishes with dry tannins. 60% Carmenère, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot.
01 Jul 2002
86/100
Subtle smoke weaves through the polished plum and blackberry flavors. Sweet, mediumweight fleshy texture and
juicy finish. Delicious. Good to see this wine living up to expectations. 60 percent Carmenère, with Cabernet
Sauvignon and Merlot. Drink now through 2003. 11,000 cases made. JM
245
Red Wines Chile
Curico Valley
V
Vina Montes | Cabernet Sauvignon Curicó Valley Alpha
2010
UWS: 91/100
The 2010 Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon is blended with 10% Merlot and aged for 12 months in French oak. It
has a lifted floral bouquet with raspberry wine gums and wild strawberry, while the palate is mediumbodied with
grippy tannins, red currant and raspberry laced with vanilla towards the crisp finish. It is composed, harmonious
and packs sufficient fruit to leave you satisfied at this price. Drink now2017. Montes was founded in 1987 and
became one of the first wineries to exploit the hillsides to make premium Chilean wine, most notably in the Apalta
Valley. It was also the first winery to cultivate Syrah in Colchagua. The winery eschews pumps and is built around
gravity transfer, while the entire design is based around the Chinese concept of feng shui. Below lies the semi
circular cellar that houses up to 800 new French oak barrels, enjoying the Gregorian chants while they mature the
wine. Despite the impressive facilities and quasiecclesiastical karma, Aurelio firmly believes that great wine is
made in the vineyard rather than the winery. Still, when I questioned him about whether he is revising his modus
operandi, he replied that, at least apropos his Chardonnay, like many in South America, he is decreasing the amount
of oak in the wines while lifting the malolactic. This was generally a well turned out portfolio of wines that were far
more consistent than others I tasted of similar size. While Montes is not beyond criticism, the entrylevel wines
represent a perfect introduction to Chilean wine at astoundingly good prices, while the premium bottles offer wines
that should repay cellaring.
246
Red Wines Chile
Maipo Valley
Vi
Cousino Macul | Maipo Valley Finis Terrae
2007
UWS: 90/100
The 2007 Finis Terrae has a similar, opulent bouquet to the 2006, but demonstrates more composure and control.
The palate is sweet and succulent on the entry with lifted dark plum and cassis fruit, with hints of white pepper and
soy towards the finish. This is a level up from the 2006, showing more refinement and class. Drink now2018. I
visited Cousino Macul on my first day in Chile, the original winery located in Santiago's Macul district, virtually
within the outer suburbs a la Bordeaux's Haut Brion. It was founded in 1856, though vines are said to have
cultivated on the site since the 16th century. The Cousino family imported vines from Europe in 1863. In 1990, the
family expanded with an acquisition of another 300 hectares of land and constructed a new winery in Buin. There is
a sense of stately grandeur to Cousino Macul, the family house furnished in an ornate European style interpolated
with the occasional nod towards the Mediterranean. The wines are reliable rather than spectacular, though a bottle
of Antiguas Reservas Cabernet Sauvignon 1988 served blind, would have embarrassed many a Bordeaux from the
same vintage.
The 2007 Finis Terrae is a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot aged for 15 months in French oak.
Now it is essentially the second wine of LOTA with lots not making the cut for the grand vin going into Finis Terrae.
Dark ruby red in color, it offers up an inviting nose of balsam wood, spice box, rose petal, violets, blackcurrant, and
blackberry. Mediumbodied on the palate, with some elegance, it displays excellent volume and intensity and enough
structure to evolve for 34 years. Drink this classy effort from 2013 to 2022. If there is anyone delivering more
bangforthe buck than Arturo Cousino and his namesake winery CousinoMacul, I'd like to know about it. One of
the first wineries from Chile to make a breakthrough in the USA market, over the years Cousino has continued to
finetune his portfolio and the wines are better today than they have ever been. I wrote that a year ago and it
remains true today.
With dark aromas of tar, black pepper and blackberry, this presents itself well. The palate is creamy, smooth and
ready, with baked, lightly raisiny flavors of black currant, blackberry and brown sugar. For sheer ripeness, this is at
peak level, so drink this impressive CabernetMerlot blend now.
01 Jul 2011
91/100
A classic blend of cabernet and merlot from Alto Maipo, this grows at the Cousiños' vineyard in Buin. The vines are
at the base of the Andean foothills, their wine resonant with subtle herb and menthol aromas that melt in fruit scents
of dried cherries and ripe berries. It finishes with hints of leather and spice, lending a distinct sense of place.
01 Feb 2011
92/100
(a 60/40 blend) Bright ruby. A complex, hightoned bouquet displays redcurrant, cherry and tobacco, with a suave
floral quality gaining strength with air. Juicy red fruit flavors are complemented by licorice and bitter chocolate and
given support by zesty acidity. The floral note echoes through a long, spicy, focused finish. This is one to age.
C
Perez Cruz | Maipo Valley Carmenere Reserva Limited Edition
2006
UWS: 90/100
Even better is the 2006 Carmenere Reserva Limited Edition, a deep crimsoncolored wine with a superb aromatic
array of scorched earth, pencil lead, blueberry, and blackberry liqueur. On the palate spice, plum and chocolate
notes emerge followed by a lengthy, fruitfilled, pure finish. It is an exceptional value in Carmenere.
Pe
Santa Rita | Shiraz Maipo Valley Reserva
31 Oct 2008
90/100
2009
247
Red Wines Chile
UWS: 91/100
An elegant and complex red, offering rich and concentrated flavors of dark cherry, damson plum, raspberry and
chocolate that show a creamy intensity. Presents pepper and allspice notes midpalate, with a finish of huckleberry
and flan. Drink now through 2020. KM
28 Feb 2014
Decanter © (DC)
Sa
Vina Chocalan | Maipo Valley Gran Reserva
92/100
06 Jun 2012
3/5
2005
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
28 Apr 2011
3/5
Ample and ripe, with a focus on sweet blackberry and hazelnut aromas, this has a lot of alcohol to keep it round, yet
it's far from being another hot wine. It feels fresh and tense, moderated by acidity and a seductive, bitter chocolate
flavor on the finish.
01 Jun 2008
90/100
248
Red Wines Chile
Other
Vi
Aresti | Pinot Noir Chile Estate Selection
2009
UWS: 90/100
Elegant, savory, integrated, overdelivers in a big way; great value; .
249
Red Wines Chile
Rapel Valley
Ar
Casa Lapostolle | Colchagua Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Cuvee Alexandre
2003
UWS: 90/100
Medium ruby. Precise aromas of cherry, red plum, cured tobacco and pepper. Juicy and bright, showing tangy
redcurrant and spice flavors that open and build with aeration. An elegant, suavely textured midweight, finishing
with impressive lift and a sweet note of mocha.
As always, this wine exhibits power and intensity, with leather, earth and beefy dark fruit making for an alluring
bouquet. Round and ripe in the mouth, with bigtime cherry and chocolate accents. A wine with true star power, and
the lasting notes of smoke and charcoal are the real deal. Imported by Moët Hennessy USA.
Muscular and brutish now, with thick dark cocoa and toast dominating the blackberry and currant fruit. Big, brawny
finish is loaded, but very tight. Worth cellaring to see if the fruit can push through the toast. Best from 2006 through
2008. 10,486 cases made. JM
Ca
Concha Y Toro | Carmenère Rapel Valley Casillero del Diablo
89/100
15 Oct 2005
2009
UWS: 90/100
Purple; black fruits, lavender, Asian spices, 23 years aging potential; approachable now;
C
Concha Y Toro | Merlot Rapel
2010
UWS: 91/100
88% Merlot and 12% Cabernet Sauvignon grown in vineyards planted on alluvial and clay loam riverbench soils.
Vines are planted at a density of just 2,700 vines/ha, vertically trellised with aggressive canopy management and
drip irrigated with minimum fertilizer to maintain controlled growth. Grapes were harvested by hand 1224 April
with a yield of 8,000 kg/ha, destemmed, crushed and then fermented in stainless steel for seven to nine days at 30 °C.
Aged in mediumtoast French oak (38% new, 62% maximum secondfill) for four months, with racking every three
months during the first year. Winemaker Marcelo Papa. TA 6.15 g/l, pH 3.38, RS 2.74 g/l. Very rich and ripe. Not
that unlike a Pomerol actually. GV
C
04 Oct 2012
Estampa | Cabernet Sauvignon-Carmenère-Petit Verdot Colchagua Valley
Assemblage Reserve
16,5/20
2008
UWS: 90/100
CF, CS, and Carmenere; deep purple color, spicy blue and black fruits, savory, now 6 years;
Es
Estampa | Colchagua Valley Gold Assemblage
2005
UWS: 90/100
The 2005 Gold is composed of 53% Carmenere, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Petit
Verdot. Purplecolored, it offers up a bouquet of cedar, tobacco, spice box, blueberry, and blackberry. This is
followed by a plush wine with gobs of succulent blue and black fruits, a smooth texture, and outstanding richness
and depth. It will improve in the bottle for 23Published
years and
at its best from 2010 to 2017 .
by be
90pluswines.com
250
31 Oct 2008
90/100
Red Wines Chile
UWS: 90/100
The 2005 Gold is composed of 53% Carmenere, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Petit
Verdot. Purplecolored, it offers up a bouquet of cedar, tobacco, spice box, blueberry, and blackberry. This is
followed by a plush wine with gobs of succulent blue and black fruits, a smooth texture, and outstanding richness
and depth. It will improve in the bottle for 23 years and be at its best from 2010 to 2017 .
Es
31 Oct 2008
Estampa | Colchagua Valley Gold Assemblage
90/100
2008
UWS: 90/100
Estampa's 2008 Carmenere Assemblage is made up of 57% Carmenere, 23% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Cabernet
Franc, and 8% Petit Verdot. It reveals an attractive nose of licorice, clove, cinnamon, sage, blueberry, and
blackberry. It displays surprising complexity for a wine of its modest price as well as a lengthy, pure, fruitfilled
finish. Drink this outstanding value over the next 68 years.
Es
Miguel Viu Manent | Malbec Colchagua Valley
2005
UWS: 90/100
What a lush and spectacular New World Malbec. Buttery aromas of coconut and black fruits mix with herbs, mineral
and char to create a nearperfect bouquet. The palate is saturated and balanced by great natural acidity, which
frames the blackberry and herb flavors in excellent light. Meaty, textured, fruity and balanced: What more could you
want? Drink now2010. Imported by Baystate Wine Co.
01 Jul 2008
93/100
Wonderfully fresh and intense black fruit and a little smoky. Unoaked yet remarkably dense. Very good value. (JH)
06 Oct 2006
17/20
On the sweet, jammy side, with raspberry and grape fruit flavors backed by a touch of mocha. Soft and fleshy. Drink
now. 25,000 cases made. JM
M
Miguel Viu Manent | Malbec Colchagua Valley
31 Jul 2006
84/100
2007
UWS: 90/100
Purple as can be, with grapey aromas that aren't subtle in the least. Typically thick, with mild tannins and shy,
almost reserved berry, cassis and chocolaty oak flavors. Dense wine, but not as expressive and deeply flavored as
previous vintages. Drink now through 2011.
M
Vina Montes | Colchagua Valley Syrah Alpha Apalta Vineyard
2010
UWS: 90/100
The 2010 Montes Alpha Syrah comes from the Apalta subregion in Colchagua and is blended with 7% Cabernet
Sauvignon and 3% Viognier. It has a reticent nose that unfurls to reveal copious blueberry and cassis fruit laced
with vanilla. The palate is fullbodied with a layer of creamy oak smeared over the spicy black fruit on the entry,
though it shows good weight towards the powerful finish. Give this Syrah twelve months to calm down in bottle.
Drink 20132020. Montes was founded in 1987 and became one of the first wineries to exploit the hillsides to make
premium Chilean wine, most notably in the Apalta Valley. It was also the first winery to cultivate Syrah in
Colchagua. The winery eschews pumps and is built around gravity transfer, while the entire design is based around
the Chinese concept of feng shui. Below lies the semicircular cellar that houses up to 800 new French oak barrels,
enjoying the Gregorian chants while they mature the wine. Despite the impressive facilities and quasiecclesiastical
karma, Aurelio firmly believes that great wine is made in the vineyard rather than the winery. Still, when I
questioned him about whether he is revising his modus operandi, he replied that, at least apropos his Chardonnay,
like many in South America, he is decreasing the amount of oak in the wines while lifting the malolactic. This was
generally a well turned out portfolio of wines that were far more consistent than others I tasted of similar size. While
Montes is not beyond criticism, the entrylevel
represent a perfect introduction to Chilean wine 251
at
Published wines
by 90pluswines.com
astoundingly good prices, while the premium bottles offer wines that should repay cellaring.
Sauvignon and 3% Viognier. It has a reticent nose that unfurls to reveal copious blueberry and cassis fruit laced
with vanilla. The palate is fullbodied with a layer of creamy oak smeared over the spicy black fruit on the entry,
though it shows good weight towards the powerful finish. Give this Syrah twelve months to calm down in bottle.
Drink 20132020. Montes was founded in 1987 and became one of the first wineries to exploit the hillsides to make
premium Chilean wine, most notably in the Apalta Valley. It was also the first winery to cultivate Syrah in
Colchagua. The winery eschews pumps and is built around gravity transfer, while the entire design is based around
the Chinese concept of feng shui. Below lies the semicircular cellar that houses up to 800 new French oak barrels,
enjoying the Gregorian chants while they mature the wine. Despite the impressive facilities and quasiecclesiastical
karma, Aurelio firmly believes that great wine is made in the vineyard rather than the winery. Still, when I
questioned him about whether he is revising his modus operandi, he replied that, at least apropos his Chardonnay,
like many in South America, he is decreasing the amount of oak in the wines while lifting the malolactic. This was
generally a well turned out portfolio of wines that were far more consistent than others I tasted of similar size. While
Montes is not beyond criticism, the entrylevel wines represent a perfect introduction to Chilean wine at
astoundingly good prices, while the premium bottles offer wines that should repay cellaring.
Red Wines Chile
Vi
Vina MontGras | Carmenère Colchagua Valley Reserve
2011
UWS: 90/100
Quite closed and restrained for the variety. A few shakes of herbiness to finish. Long, chocolatey length.
Understated. (RH)
Jancis Robinson © (JR) 17 May 2012 16/20
Vi
Vina MontGras | Merlot Colchagua Valley Reserve
2010
UWS: 90/100
90% Merlot and 10% Carmenère from Mont Gras' San José Estate in the Colchagua Valley. The vines are 16 years
old and planted on clay soils, yielding 65 hl/ha. The grapes were hand picked in the third week of April and pressed
in a combination of pneumatic and basket presses. Preferment maceration at 15 18°C followed by fermentation at
28 31°C in stainlesssteel tanks with three pumpovers per day. Full malo and 40% of the final blend was matured
for eight months in new oak (50% American and 50% French). Winemaker Santiago Margozzini. TA 4.8 g/l, pH
3.55, RS 2.5 g/l. Very dark crimson. Scented and rich with a hint of green. Cocoa powder. Sweet finish.
Vi
Vina MontGras | Merlot Colchagua Valley Reserve
2011
UWS: 90/100
90% Merlot and 10% Carmenère from MontGras' San José Estate in the Colchagua Valley. The vines are 17 years
old and planted on clay and allluvial soils. The grapes were handpicked, the Merlot between the 612 April and the
Carmenère the first week of May. Fermentation lasted 20 days at 2831 °C with three pumpovers per day. Full
natural malolactic and 50% of the final blend was matured for eight months in new oak (80% French and 20%
American). Winemaker Santiago Margozzini. TA 5.0 g/l, pH 3.5, RS 4.0 g/l. Smells as though there's a bit of
Carmenère in here, I wrote before reading the notes (that greenness). Well put together. GV
04 Oct 2012
16/20
252
Red Wines France
Bordeaux
Vi
Chateau Des Vergnes | Bordeaux
2008
UWS: 90/100
Proposé par l'un des premiers groupements de producteurs en vins du Bordelais et du SudOuest, ce 2008 à la robe
grenat éclatante fait preuve d'une grande complexité aromatique: aux séduisants parfums de fruits noirs confiturés
s'associent des notes épicées aux accents de réglisse. Rond, charnu et généreux, le palais livre une finale persistante,
pleine de fruits. Une harmonie réussie dont on pourra profiter dès la sortie du Guide. Également proposé par la
coopérative, le Ch. Côtes de Martet 2008 est cité pour sa fraîcheur et son fruité.
C
Chateau d'Escurac | Medoc
01 Jan 2011
2/3
2002
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
18 Apr 2012
4/5
Je l'estimais beaucoup avant la mise en bouteille. Aujourd'hui, je le trouve un peu trop étriqué en bouche, même s'il
est très aromatique. C'est un vin assez particulier, de type longiforme, qui laisse croire que, plus mûr, il serait
meilleur. Attendre 2008 et avant 2013.
JeanMarc Quarin © (QUA) 01 Mar 2006
14,514,75/20
Valeur sûre et reconnue, ce cru est encore une fois à la hauteur de sa réputation avec ce 2002. De la teinte soutenue
de la robe à la longueur de la finale, tout annonce un vin constitué pour affronter la garde. Fruits rouges, café et
bois, son bouquet a la complexité requise pour séduire et une ampleur égale à celle du palais. Une très jolie
bouteille, pour un menu de fête. Autre cru bourgeois du même producteur, le Château HautMyles 2002 (5 à 8 €) a
été cité.
01 Jan 2006
2/3
Deep ruby with notes of dried herbs, damp earth, incense, and red currants, this wine shows good depth and medium
body. It is an elegant, classic Bordeaux to drink over the next 67 years. This is one of the best cru bourgeois in the
Medoc and wellworth serious consideration.
C
30 Apr 2005
Chateau Fonréaud | Listrac
86/100
2007
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
28 Apr 2011
4/5
Joli nez de fruits rouges et blancs. Corps moyen et doux sans rigidité en finale. A boire et avant 2017.
JeanMarc Quarin © (QUA) 01 Nov 2010 14,75/20
There is plenty of wood, both in aromas and to taste. What is worrying is the dominance of the wood over the
relatively light fruit character. There are just hints of Cabernet black currants, but then the wood closes in. It needs
34 years to come together.
01 Apr 2010
C
Chateau Joinin | Bordeaux
88/100
20 Oct 2009
15/20
2010
UWS: 90/100
A lush and inviting red, exhibiting notes of raspberry, fig and boysenberry preserves that are layered with toasted
spice and melted black licorice. Yet this is nicely grounded on the finish, with a charcoal thread to keep it honest.
253
31 Mar 2013
90/100
Red Wines France
UWS: 90/100
A lush and inviting red, exhibiting notes of raspberry, fig and boysenberry preserves that are layered with toasted
spice and melted black licorice. Yet this is nicely grounded on the finish, with a charcoal thread to keep it honest.
Wine Spectator © (WS), James Molesworth 31 Mar 2013 90/100
C
Chateau La Chandellière | Medoc
2006
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
C
Chateau La Chandellière | Medoc
28 Apr 2011
3/5
2009
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
06 Jun 2012
3/5
70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot. Lifted and bright on the nose, dark fruit and sweet cherry. Plush and
generous on the palate. Just enough freshness, quite oaky at the moment. (JH)
C
21 Sep 2011
Chateau la Rame | Bordeaux
15,5/20
2007
UWS: 90/100
Une dizaine de coups de coeur déjà en appellation saintecroixdumont pour ce domaine; une valeur sûre du
Bordelais donc, qui confirme l'étendue de son talent avec ce bordeaux. Ce 2007 grenat soutenu dévoile des parfums
complexes de fruits noirs mûrs, nuancés de notes épicées et vanillées. La bouche se montre persistante, pleine et
charnue, bâtie sur une charpente de tanins déjà arrondis. Un vin très élégant et prometteur, à déguster dans deux ou
trois ans sur un gigot d'agneau. Le Ch. la Caussade 2007, sur les fruits noirs et la réglisse, est cité.
C
Chateau Lestage | Listrac
01 Jan 2010
2/3
2010
UWS: 90/100
Dense and rich, with nutmeg and other spices. Full, with dark fruit and a long finish. Excellent for here.
C
20 Apr 2011
Chateau Poitevin | Medoc
8990/100
2008
UWS: 92/100
Decanter © (DC)
18 Jul 2012
4/5
Firm tannins frame straightforward flavors of plum, tar and herbs in this chewy red. Floral and mineral notes add
interest. Offers lively acidity, with a clean, fresh finish. Drink now through 2016. TM
C
Chateau Pontoise-Cabarrus | Medoc
30 Apr 2011
88/100
2010
UWS: 90/100
Solid, with black currant and plum notes that show flecks of tar and black licorice. A strong graphite edge drives the
finish. Drink now through 2018. JM
A stunning sleeper of the vintage, this wine smells of Asian soy, barbecue smoke, charcuterie, and blackberry and
black currant fruit. A blend of 56% Merlot, Published
39% Cabernet
Sauvignon and the rest tiny quantities of Petit Verdot and
by 90pluswines.com
254
Cabernet Franc, the wine is nicely textured, medium to fullbodied and meant for drinking over the next 58 years.
A member of the Alliance des Cru Bourgeois du Medoc.
UWS: 90/100
Red Wines France
Solid, with black currant and plum notes that show flecks of tar and black licorice. A strong graphite edge drives the
finish. Drink now through 2018. JM
A stunning sleeper of the vintage, this wine smells of Asian soy, barbecue smoke, charcuterie, and blackberry and
black currant fruit. A blend of 56% Merlot, 39% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest tiny quantities of Petit Verdot and
Cabernet Franc, the wine is nicely textured, medium to fullbodied and meant for drinking over the next 58 years.
A member of the Alliance des Cru Bourgeois du Medoc.
28 Feb 2013
89/100
56% Merlot, 39% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Petit Verdot, 2% Cabernet Franc. Racy and mineral and with lots of
sinewy life. Rather sleek and with good energy. Solid and earnest.
21 Sep 2012
16/20
Good ripe fruit, smooth flavours and nice balance. Drink 201418. (15.5 points)
C
Chateau Saransot Dupre | Listrac
2005
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
28 Apr 2011
3/5
Ce cru décroche un deuxième coup de coeur après celui obtenu pour le millésime... 1989! Le Guide a de la mémoire.
Yves Raymond était déjà à l'époque aux commandes du domaine qu'il a repris en 1982. L'assemblage très diversifié
inclut le petit verdot et la carménère. Cela donne un vin à la teinte d'un pourpre profond presque noir, qui s'ouvre
sur des nuances de fruits mûrs et confits (cassis, cerise) soulignées par des notes de vanille et de cannelle. Souple et
très grasse, l'attaque ouvre la voie à un palais charpenté, parfaitement équilibré, savoureux et aromatique
(pruneau). La finale s'étire sur une trame de velours, confirmant le charme indéniable de cette grande bouteille, à
attendre au moins cinq ou six ans.
01 Jan 2009
3/3
Vin coloré, très fruité au nez. Bouche arrondie et aimable, sans aucune rigidité. Longueur et corps normaux.
JeanMarc Quarin © (QUA)
C
01 Apr 2006
Chateau Tour Saint Bonnet | Medoc
1414,25/20
2007
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
28 Sep 2011
3/5
255
Red Wines France
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Chateau Beaulieu Comtes de Tastes | Bordeaux Superieur
2009
UWS: 90/100
A minerally and fruity wine, but subdued and balanced. Mediumbodied, with fine tannins and a long finish. Score
range: 8891 JS
C
28 Apr 2011
Chateau Bolaire | Bordeaux Superieur
8891/100
2011
UWS: 90/100
Very dark crimson. Clean, fresh, mildly toasty nose. Really very creditable and apparently ripe. Then an attractive
fresh, dry finish. Good balance. Light tannins suggest a reasonably early maturity.
C
Chateau Croix Mouton | Bordeaux Superieur
01 Jun 2012
16/20
2010
UWS: 90/100
Another of the notable estates and wines benefitting from the talents of JeanPhilippe Janoueix, this outstanding
wine from a humble appellation displays sweet, smoky barbecue notes along with blackberry and blueberry fruit and
hints of licorice, incense and graphite. It achieves a level of quality and satisfaction well above its humble origin.
Drink it over the next 57 years.
28 Feb 2013
90/100
Berry and blackberry chocolate. Full and round.
20 Apr 2011
8990/100
Thick and sweet and flattering with a firm undertow. Dries out a bit at the end. Tasted 3 Apr: Very dark purple.
Tough and a little bit green. Even sour on the end. Not much fun! But there is density here that may flower
eventually. (Score: 15 1519)
05 Apr 2011
15,5/20
256
Red Wines France
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Chateau Goubau | Cotes de Castillon La Source
2005
UWS: 90/100
Shows ripe forest fruits, with a hint of vanilla. Medium to fullbodied, with wellintegrated tannins and a long fruit
and mineral finish. A bit rustic, but enjoyable. Rich and impressive. Best after 2010. 2,330 cases made. JS
C
90/100
28 Apr 2011
Chateau Puygueraud | Cotes de Francs
2010
UWS: 90/100
A fresh core of plum and linzer torte fruit is laced with judicious toast, with a nice dash of tobacco on the finish.
Score range: 8891
The most widely encountered cuvee from this estate will be the 2010 Puygeraud, their nonGeorge cuvee, which is
mostly Merlot with about 25% Cabernet Franc and a tiny bit of Malbec. This wine hit 14.5% natural alcohol in
2010, which I think is an alltime high. This attractive wine is surprisingly elegant, lush and fruit forward, as one
might expect from this unheralded appellation. Deep ruby/purple, with plenty of fruit, the team of Nicolas Thienpont
and Stephane Derenoncourt have done a super job with this inexpensive wine.
87/100
28 Feb 2013
Decanter © (DC)
01 Jan 2013
3/5
This is incredible for this site with intense fruit and wild acidity. Full and super lively with blueberry, blackberry and
firm tannins. Best ever. 75% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Malbec.
20 Apr 2011
9293/100
Polished and lively. Well done. Dry finish but appetising. Tasted 3 Apr: The Thienpont clan. Dark crimson. Easy,
well balanced but not very ambitious. Nice, mediumeverything wine. (Score: 15.5 1418)
05 Apr 2011
16/20
Très bon vin, au nez fruité et suave, à la bouche juteuse, aromatique, de bonne constitution, s'achevant sur une belle
finale sèveuse et des tannins fins.
C
01 Apr 2011
Chateau Haut Grela | Premières Côtes de Blaye
15,5/20
2009
UWS: 90/100
Blueberry jam, with black licorice on the nose. Fullbodied, with soft and velvety tannins and a fruity finish. Pretty.
Score range: 8891 JS
C
28 Apr 2011
Chateau Mayne Guyon | Premières Côtes de Blaye
8891/100
2008
UWS: 90/100
S'il n'atteint pas les sommets du 2007 (trois étoiles), le 2008 de Mayne Guyon n'a pas à rougir de la comparaison.
Les amateurs vont, eux, rougir de plaisir à la dégustation de ce vin grenat sombre qui mêle au nez les fruits mûrs à
un boisé bien dosé et à quelques senteurs animales, et offre un palais gras, velouté, rond et charnu où l'on sent les
raisins gorgés de soleil et qu'une belle fraîcheur vient tonifier en finale. À savourer dès l'automne comme dans les
trois ans à venir.
01 Jan 2011
2/3
257
UWS: 90/100
S'il n'atteint pas les sommets du 2007 (trois étoiles), le 2008 de Mayne Guyon n'a pas à rougir de la comparaison.
Les amateurs vont, eux, rougir de plaisir à la dégustation de ce vin grenat sombre qui mêle au nez les fruits mûrs à
un boisé bien dosé et à quelques senteurs animales, et offre un palais gras, velouté, rond et charnu où l'on sent les
raisins gorgés de soleil et qu'une belle fraîcheur vient tonifier en finale. À savourer dès l'automne comme dans les
trois ans à venir.
Red Wines France
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Chateau Segonzac | Premières Côtes de Blaye
01 Jan 2011
2/3
2002
UWS: 90/100
Beau domaine viticole de 33 ha créé en 1887 par un ministre de l'Agriculture et commandé par un vrai château. La
récolte est scindée en deux importantes cuvées, toutes deux sélectionnées. Ces Vieilles Vignes, parées d'une
magnifique robe sombre, offrent un bouquet à la fois concentré et élégant, mariant le raisin mûr et le bon bois. La
bouche ample et équilibrée finit sur des tanins présents mais prometteurs. C'est un très grand vin de garde qui
devrait s'ouvrir dans trois à quatre ans. Le Château Segonzac rouge 2002 (8 à 11 €) obtient une citation. Bien que
très corsé, il pourra être consommé un peu plus vite (un à deux ans).
01 Jan 2005
2/3
258
Red Wines France
Bordeaux (Graves)
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Chateau Pont de Brion | Graves
2007
UWS: 90/100
Des vignes d'âge respectable (trentecinq ans en moyenne), un encépagement dans la tradition bordelaise avec 10 %
de petit verdot: ce vin présente un joli pédigrée et de nombreuses sélections dans le Guide. Doté d'une robe intense
et brillante, il s'en montre digne tant par sa palette aromatique que par sa structure. La première sur le tabac, la
vanille et le poivre, témoigne d'une belle extraction et d'un élevage bien maîtrisé. Avec ses tanins soyeux et ronds, la
seconde confirme cette impression favorable et annonce un bon potentiel. Agréablement bouqueté, avec des notes
florales et exotiques (mangue), le Ch. Ludeman Les Cèdres 2008 blanc (5 à 8 €) est cité.
01 Jan 2010
2/3
259
Red Wines France
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Chateau du Moulin | Haut Medoc
2010
UWS: 90/100
50% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc. Not expensive... Quite savoury and meaty and solid.
Good solid yeoman stuff.
21 Sep 2012
16/20
Fine aromatic crushed red berry fruit, classic northern HautMédoc, firm and potentially complex. Drink 201420.
(16 points)
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Chateau du Moulin | Haut Medoc
2011
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
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Chateau Haut Beyzac | Haut Medoc
18 Apr 2012
3/5
2007
UWS: 91/100
Séduisant sur des notes toastées, mais avec une matière concentrée et mûre en bouche. Très beau volume et tanins
élégants. Il présente un bon potentiel de garde.
C
01 Jan 2011
Chateau Lamothe Bergeron | Haut Medoc
16,5/20
2007
UWS: 90/100
Black fruits, spice, smoke and rose. Serious, with good extraction of flavour, oak and structure. Fresh and long.
Drink from 2010. (15.67 points)
Decanter © (DC)
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Chateau Landat | Haut Medoc
28 Apr 2011
3/5
2005
UWS: 90/100
A dense wine, with strong elements of its wood aging still prominent, and smoothing out the tannins. It has power, a
dark texture and superripe almost jammy fruits. The final has mint, spice and sweet plum juice.
C
01 Jun 2010
Chateau Reysson | Haut Medoc
90/100
2004
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
28 Apr 2011
3/5
Belle attaque séductrice avec des notes de fruits rouges et un boisé assez fin. Belle matière en bouche au caractère
gras et ample. Style moderne et de belle ampleur. (7,50 €)
01 Jan 2008
16/20
260
Red Wines France
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Chateau Villegeorge | Haut Medoc
2007
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
28 Sep 2011
3/5
261
Red Wines France
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Chateau Arnauton | Fronsac
2007
UWS: 90/100
Dans le giron d'une famille belge depuis 1937, la gestion de ce cru a migré un peu plus vers le nord en 2007, les
nouveaux propriétaires étant Hollandais. Ces derniers marquent leur arrivée de manière tonitruante, en décrochant
la première place à la finale des coups de coeur. La robe pourpre profond de leur fronsac brille de reflets rubis; le
nez libère des parfums de fruits rouges et noirs frais, mêlés de délicates notes boisées. La bouche se fait gourmande,
équilibrée entre la richesse du fruit, la suavité de la chair et une fraîcheur omniprésente. Les dégustateurs ont été
séduits par cet ensemble long, fin et harmonieux, ne cédant pas à la mode de la puissance. La trame tannique encore
jeune demandera deux à cinq ans de garde. La cuvée Grand Sol 2007 (11 à 15 €) décroche une étoile pour son
caractère mûr et chaleureux, au boisé marqué: à attendre trois ans.
01 Jan 2011
2/3
Unusually firm but ripe tannins are the dominant feature of this impressive Fronsac which packs quite a punch.
C
21 Apr 2008
Chateau La Fontaine | Fronsac
16/20
2000
UWS: 90/100
La SIVIR est un important groupement de producteurs qui travaille à la mise en valeur des AOC du Roussillon. Ce
vin n'est plus commercialisé, ils vendent actuellement le 2001. Le château des Fontaines a été particulièrement
apprécié du jury. Sa robe d'or intense exprime la concentration. Les arômes évoquent l'écorce d'orange confite, la
cire d'abeille, les épices et la confiture de pêches. La bouche est ample, suave et s'achève sur une touche de
délicieuse amertume.
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Chateau La Fontaine | Fronsac
01 Jan 2003
2/3
2005
UWS: 90/100
Cette cuvée confidentielle provient des coteaux qui entourent le village de Chavignol, également célèbre pour ses
fromages de chèvre. Paraîtelle timide au nez? Ce n'est là que la marque du terroir argilocalcaire et elle
s'exprimera pleinement dans quelques mois. Au palais, elle ne cache pas son potentiel: de la rondeur, de l'ampleur,
de la structure et de la persistance. Vous pourrez la conserver entre trois et cinq ans.
01 Jan 2007
2/3
262
Red Wines France
Bordeaux (Moulis)
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Chateau Gressier-Grand-Poujeaux | Moulis
2006
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
28 Apr 2011
3/5
263
Red Wines France
Bourgogne
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Daniel & Fils Rion | Bourgogne
2008
UWS: 91/100
Légère réduction, puis à l'air arômes très fruités, purs, fidèles plus au cépage qu'au terroir, ensemble frais,
équilibré, soigné, qui gagnera en complexité avec le temps.
28 Apr 2011
16,5/20
** A real Burgundy at a lovely price and from a less than perfect vintage. Impressive. It shows dried strawberry,
light earth and cedar aromas and flavors. Medium body, with a solid core of fruit and a long flavorful finish. So
good now. Good value. SAQ Website/Find the wine
D
90/100
21 Feb 2011
12 Jan 2010
Domaine Gaston & Pierre Ravaut | Corton Hautes Mourottes
16,5/20
1985
UWS: 92/100
Lean and firm with concentrated cherry, plum, smoke and spicy flavors, cris p, tight acidity and enough tannin for
longterm aging. Beautifully crafted .
D
31 Jul 1988
Domaine Robert Arnoux | Bourgogne Pinot Fin
92/100
2007
UWS: 90/100
Pascal Lachaux says 2007 is not a tiring Burgundy vintage to taste. His own label at Bibendum and Armit is all in
bottle. For his négociant wines, see under Lachaux. Very rich and sweet. Easy and fruity but a little bit obvious on
the oak. I would happily drink this in a restaurant but it's not as complex as Grivot's.
D
Georges Duboeuf | Fleurie
2008
UWS: 90/100
If Fleurie can be said to be floral, this one is all rose. It's presented in a dry style, an austere wine with a texture of
satin and flavors of black figs. There's a vegetal note to the tannins, needing six months to a year to meld with the
fruit. The floral aspect will brighten a roast this winter.
G
01 Oct 2009
Jean-Luc Joillot | Bourgogne
90/100
2006
UWS: 90/100
Coup de coeur pour ce chardonnay passé par dix mois de chêne (dont un tiers de fûts neufs), bâtonné comme à
Puligny ou Chassagne! Limpide, d'un or légèrement soutenu, il intègre son boisé dans une belle tranche de brioche.
Ample et gras, vif et long, équilibré en un mot, c'est un vin harmonieux que l'on peut déjà commencer à apprécier,
ou attendre un peu. Exploitation familiale d'une quinzaine d'hectares, conduite en lutte raisonnée.
01 Jan 2009
2/3
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Je
Georges Duboeuf | Beaujolais-Villages
2006
UWS: 94/100
La maison Duboeuf a encore frappé ! Avec sa robe rouge sombre et son nez mûr à point, gourmand du raisin au
tanin, ce villages excellera par sa chair à la fois ferme et fruitée sur un plateau de charcuteries. Un habile
assemblage pas loin d'un cru.
G
01 Jan 2008
Henry Fessy | Beaujolais
17,5/20
2011
UWS: 91/100
Hint of oak on the nose taking away slightly from the brightness of the Gamay fruit on the nose but it reemerges on
the palate. Deep fruit, generous and lightly but well structured. Moreish. (JH)
H
11 Jan 2013
Georges Duboeuf | Beaujolais - Brouilly Domaine de la Perriere
16,5/20
2005
UWS: 91/100
Revealing delicate black cherry aromas, the recently bottled 2005 Brouilly Domaine de la Perriere is a muscular
wine armed with impressive quantities of black fruits. Medium to fullbodied and concentrated, this structured effort
is big, broad, and filled with satiny layers of blackberries. Drink it between 2008 and 2014.
G
Georges Duboeuf | Beaujolais - Brouilly Domaine des Nazins
30 Jun 2006
91/100
2005
UWS: 90/100
Loads of juicy red fruit aromas are found in the nose of the 2005 Brouilly Domaine des Nazins. Mediumbodied and
studded with red cherries as well as blackberries, this lively wine's character lingers on the palate for 25 seconds or
more. Drink it over the next 6 years.
G
Domaine Cheysson | Beaujolais - Chiroubles
30 Jun 2006
90/100
2009
UWS: 91/100
Bright violet. Sexy, expansive aromas of black raspberry and cherry preserves, with floral and spicecake nuances
and slowmounting minerality. Energetic, mineraldriven red and dark berry flavors show alluring sweetness and a
suave floral overtone. This seamless, pure Beaujolais finishes with excellent clarity and lingering floral and red
berry notes. As delicious as it is right now, I'll bet that it will be even better in a few years and will hold for a good
while after that. Cheysson's wine is raised in cement and stainless steel tanks and never sees wood.
After being delighted to discover Jean Pierre Large's wines with his 2006 (reviewed in issue 178) I somehow,
reprehensibly, missed out on tasting either of the two subsequent vintages, but the Domaine Cheysson 2009
Chiroubles confirms the existence of major talent, not to mention the presumption of excellent terroir. Red raspberry
and red currant mingle with black tea and peony in the nose, then combine vividly right down to the tart,
invigoratingly bitter crunch of their seeds on the palate, with smoky, saline, and alkaline accents. There is a saline,
exuberantly tart berrybrightness to the finish that positively exhilarates. The 2006 was still lovely 12 months ago,
and I would expect this exceptional value 2009 to be worth following for 56 years.
265
berry notes. As delicious as it is right now, I'll bet that it will be even better in a few years and will hold for a good
while after that. Cheysson's wine is raised in cement and stainless steel tanks and never sees wood.
After being delighted to discover Jean Pierre Large's wines with his 2006 (reviewed in issue 178) I somehow,
reprehensibly, missed out on tasting either of the two subsequent vintages, but the Domaine Cheysson 2009
Chiroubles confirms the existence of major talent, not to mention the presumption of excellent terroir. Red raspberry
and red currant mingle with black tea and peony in the nose, then combine vividly right down to the tart,
invigoratingly bitter crunch of their seeds on the palate, with smoky, saline, and alkaline accents. There is a saline,
exuberantly tart berrybrightness to the finish that positively exhilarates. The 2006 was still lovely 12 months ago,
and I would expect this exceptional value 2009 to be worth following for 56 years.
Red Wines France
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Domaine Daniel Bouland | Chiroubles
2008
UWS: 90/100
Bright fruit flavors of pomegranate and blackberry mix with a pretty floral note in this lightbodied red, while lively
acidity keeps it fresh. Drink now. AN
28 Apr 2011
85/100
01 Jan 2010
17/20
The 2008 Chiroubles shows what a difference terroir can make: even though Bouland's parcel of Chiroubles is
immediately adjacent to his Morgon, soil and exposure are different, and the result is a bright, exuberant, white wine
like, terrifically vivacious tonic of salt and citrus zesttinged red raspberry and purple plum. This light, lithe wine
is palatestaining in its concentration, but I would be inclined to enjoy it over the next couple of years. This year,
not just one wine but an entire family of Daniel Bouland's as yet still littleknown wines is coming to the U.S., and
they should not be missed!
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Georges Duboeuf | Chiroubles Domaine Desmures
2009
UWS: 90/100
Rich and perfumed, the wine is packed with black cherry and damson fruit flavors. It is concentrated with its tannins
firmly integrated, giving great final fruit and ripeness.
G
01 Oct 2011
Domaine des Terres Dorees (Jean Paul Brun) | Beaujolais - Cote de Brouilly
90/100
2010
UWS: 91/100
Vinified using burgundian maceration and 100% destalked grapes. Minimal SO2 is only used at bottling. Pale.
Great lift and competence. Lots of acidity. Rather uncompromising. Wait ! A little light on the finish.
26 Jun 2012
16/20
Bright rubyred. Pungent red fruits and potpourri on the highly perfumed nose. Lithe and precise on the palate,
offering pure strawberry and raspberry flavors complicated by notes of white pepper and candied violet. Closes with
impressive energy, length and lingering florality.
01 Apr 2012
91/100
Like Brun's other crus only three weeks in bottle when I tasted it, his 2010 Cote de Brouilly around a third of which
did time in his sole foudre and in older barriques led with a provocatively pungent nose of smoky black tea,
horseradish, quarry dust, and justripe blueberry and red raspberry. Bright and invigorating, it gushes with tart
edged fruit while delivering more than enough complexity to elicit headscratching between sips. Sustained and
salivainducing in its finishing flavors, it should remain a delight for at least the next several years. Brun seeks to
assure me that a richer dimension will emerge once this has had a bit more time to rest postbottling. JeanPaul
Brun and his Terres Dorees for a bit more background on which, consult especially my report in issue 184
continue to be the source of some of Beaujolais's most exciting wines and best values. I'm very content with my
2010s, remarks Burn, but I suspect most lovers of Beaujolais will express their enthusiasm with less restraint.
(Brun's Pinot Noir, Chardonnay Vinification Bourguignon, and Roussanne were all still in the midst of their
elevage when I visited with him and were not tasted.)
eRobertParker.com © (WA), David Schildknecht 31 Aug 2011 91+/100
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Domaine du Vissoux | Fleurie Les Garants
2001
266
Red Wines France
UWS: 90/100
Intense aromas of ripe black fruits emanate from the glass of the dark rubycolored 2001 Fleurie Les Garants. A
structured, mediumbodied wine, it offers herbal red fruits and blackberries whose effects linger in its long yet firm
finish. Drink it over the next 23 years.
31 Oct 2003
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Domaine du Vissoux | Fleurie Poncie
87/100
01 Jan 2003
17/20
2008
UWS: 90/100
01 Jan 2010
16/20
From 30yearold vines, this is a big, jolly wine packed with ripe fruits, red plum juice and a full burst of richness in
the mouth. The fruit is so ripe it is almost sweet, leaving a delicious strawberry flavor.
The Vissoux 2008 Fleurie Poncie offers palatestaining black fruits and serious grip, with iodine and peat, rose hip
and cherry pit; and as usual for this site, salt and stone lending intriguing complexity. The sheer lipsmacking
juiciness on display here can draw your attention from its complexity. Cellar it for at least 45 years. Pierre
Chermette has successfully expanded from his base in southern Beaujolais without quality in any way suffering; on
the contrary his mastery of the northern Beaujolais crus is now also a fait accompli. With the new generation
coming on and with lots of new plans, following these wines which, of course, includes in your own cellar is going
to continue to be exciting. Prices have crept upward, but given the quality not to mention the labors needed to
achieve it one can hardly complain. Yields were very low in 2008, a condition, Chermette opines, for achieving
genuine and complete ripeness. (Note that since Chermette's label now features his name writ large and Vissoux in
tiny letters, I have listed his wines accordingly.)
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Georges Duboeuf | Fleurie Chateau de Bachelard
2000
UWS: 90/100
The medium to dark rubycolored 2000 Fleurie Chateau des Bachelards, armed with a nose reminiscent of a spicy
red wine sauce, is a broad, serious, mediumbodied wine. Its concentrated, structured character reveals superb veal
demiglace and black cherry flavors whose effects can be discerned for 2025 seconds. Anticipated maturity: Now
2006.
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Georges Duboeuf | Fleurie Chateau de Bachelard
2002
UWS: 90/100
Packed with silky, dark berry fruit, with impressive layers of toast, minerals and bittersweet chocolate, this has the
silky elegance of a Fleurie, with the muscle and drive of a Morgon. Strong showing. Drink now through 2005. 3,000
cases imported. JM
G
Georges Duboeuf | Fleurie Château de Grand Pre
2008
UWS: 90/100
Mineral and carnal character is exactly what the 2008 Fleurie Chateau de Grand Pre delivers in the form of bone
meal and beef marrow mingled with bright plum. This displays wonderful sappiness and energy, making me ask
What's got into its Fleurie stable mates? Plum pit bitterness and underlying meatiness mark a finish that is lip
smacking in its brightness and mineral savor. I would love to see what this does beyond the first couple of years in
the bottle. Consistent in style and amazingly low in price, the myriad Beaujolais bottlings of George Duboeuf
by 90pluswines.com
continue to represent outstanding values in Published
the American
marketplace. In April, I tasted nearly their entire range267
of
2008s, with few exceptions, already bottled. The overwhelming majority of these made my cut as value
Red Wines France
UWS: 90/100
Mineral and carnal character is exactly what the 2008 Fleurie Chateau de Grand Pre delivers in the form of bone
meal and beef marrow mingled with bright plum. This displays wonderful sappiness and energy, making me ask
What's got into its Fleurie stable mates? Plum pit bitterness and underlying meatiness mark a finish that is lip
smacking in its brightness and mineral savor. I would love to see what this does beyond the first couple of years in
the bottle. Consistent in style and amazingly low in price, the myriad Beaujolais bottlings of George Duboeuf
continue to represent outstanding values in the American marketplace. In April, I tasted nearly their entire range of
2008s, with few exceptions, already bottled. The overwhelming majority of these made my cut as value
recommendations, including some from among that wide range of domaines with which Duboeuf has longstanding
commercial relationships that might not show up in the U.S. market. The socalled Selections Georges Duboeuf
cuvees continue to bear a variation on this negociant's signature flower labels, but to save space in our print edition,
please assume that any wine not otherwise designated refers to a member of that class. In general, I have preferred
DuBoeuf's Beaujolais bottlings in their youth, with a few of the domaine crus having exhibited with bottle age a
complexity concomitant with the effort to cellar them, and where not otherwise noted, my recommendation is to
enjoy the following wines over the next couple of years. The Duboeuf 2008 BeaujolaisVillages at 30,000 cases,
representing their largest single lot of wine, and twice the volume of their appellation Beaujolais was a bit green
and rustic by comparison, and multiple bottles of a Chateau des Vierres bottling were oddly inexpressive and drying
on the occasion of my visit. Duboeuf's flower label 2008 Fleurie is another of their wines of this vintage that is
atypically austere, and in this instance a bit much so, and their 2008 Fleurie Domaine des Quatre Vents and Fleurie
Chateau des Bachelards were a bit drying and rough under the influence both of its barrel component and its very
recent bottling when I tasted it.
G
2009
UWS: 91/100
Rich as well as tannic, this is concentrated, with dense fruits and sweet acidity. Its structure offers good aging as
well as pleasurable fruit now.
After a 2008 rendition that outclassed its fellow Fleurie in the Duboeuf portfolio, the 2009 Fleurie Chateau de
Grand Pre tasted from tank follows in the same impressive mold and then some. Vinification under the direction of
owner Claude Zordan involves partial destemming and extended, cool fermentation; and the wine will enjoy a
longer stay in tank than most of its fellow Duboeuf 2009s. Scents of blueberry, blackberry, and almond extract usher
in a juicy and refreshing palate and the finishing buoyancy belies the wine's nearly 14% alcohol. Fruit pit bitterness,
tart berry skin, and an illusive but distinctive sense of mineral savor (there is a hint of iodine, but that's not all)
render this as intriguing as it is sensually satisfying. I suspect one could enjoyably follow this for at least 34 years.
The vast and on the whole stylistically consistent range of Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais bottlings a majority issuing
from individual domaines represents a reliable source of value, and this has seldom been more true (nor has the
range most, but not all of which, I tasted been more vast) than from 2009, which it is clear Duboeuf considers as
fine a vintage as he has witnessed although he notes, It was very difficult this year to choose the date of bottling,
and many wines were still in tank awaiting that decision when I tasted in April. I continue to find as a general rule
that Duboeuf's wines are best drunk within two years of bottling, so in my notes I have made reference to aging
potential only for any wines that I expect might be exceptions to that rule of thumb. (Wines identified solely by their
appellation are socalled Selections Georges Duboeuf cuvees, labeled with his company's signature flower labels.
There are Regnie and Chenas selection bottlings that I did not taste, the latter being the sole bottling of its
appellation this vintage, due to the ravages of hail.)
G
2010
UWS: 90/100
Following its impressive showings in two immediately preceding vintages, Claude Zordan's 2010 Fleurie Chateau
de Grand Pre tasted from tank once again represents an outstanding value and flattering addition to the Duboeuf
portfolio, worth following for at least 34 years. Strawberry, cherry, mint, and candied lime and orange peel on the
nose portend a generously juicy, coolingly herbal yet pungently bittersweet palate. Entirely blind, I might have taken
this persistently silkentextured, buoyant, and refreshing performance for that of a white or pink wine, which no
doubt also reflects the long, cool fermentation practiced at this estate. George Duboeuf and his estate
collaborators for further general comments on whom consult my issue 190 report harvested from midSeptember
into the first week of October and pronounced themselves reasonably satisfied with the size of their crop as well as
its quality. Most of the fruit came in at between 1212.5% alcohol, with only a small share being chaptalized. And
while the manner of extraction typically practiced chez Duboeuf strikes me as serving for rather uniformly deep
Publishedwith
by 90pluswines.com
268
colors, Duboeuf remarked that the 2010s colored
particular, and surprising, ease. The percentage of wines
bottled at the time of my June visit was, predictably, considerably higher than had been the case for the 2009s at the
UWS: 90/100
Following its impressive showings in two immediately preceding vintages, Claude Zordan's 2010 Fleurie Chateau
de Grand Pre tasted from tank once again represents an outstanding value and flattering addition to the Duboeuf
portfolio, worth following for at least 34 years. Strawberry, cherry, mint, and candied lime and orange peel on the
nose portend a generously juicy, coolingly herbal yet pungently bittersweet palate. Entirely blind, I might have taken
this persistently silkentextured, buoyant, and refreshing performance for that of a white or pink wine, which no
doubt also reflects the long, cool fermentation practiced at this estate. George Duboeuf and his estate
collaborators for further general comments on whom consult my issue 190 report harvested from midSeptember
into the first week of October and pronounced themselves reasonably satisfied with the size of their crop as well as
its quality. Most of the fruit came in at between 1212.5% alcohol, with only a small share being chaptalized. And
while the manner of extraction typically practiced chez Duboeuf strikes me as serving for rather uniformly deep
colors, Duboeuf remarked that the 2010s colored with particular, and surprising, ease. The percentage of wines
bottled at the time of my June visit was, predictably, considerably higher than had been the case for the 2009s at the
same point on the calendar. Observing conventions established in the aforementioned previous report, I have made
reference to aging potential only for any wines that I expect might be worth following for longer than a couple of
years, and where I have identified a wine solely by appellation, it represents a socalled Selections Georges
Duboeuf cuvee, adorned with his company's signature flower labels. I also tasted on this occasion several late
released, wooded prestige bottlings rendered in 1,0002,500 volumes which however were not destined to
appear in U.S. markets.
Red Wines France
G
Georges Duboeuf | Fleurie Domaine des Quatre Vents
2002
UWS: 91/100
Accurately described by Duboeuf as the finest wine from this estate in at least a decade, the fabulous 2002 Fleurie
Domaine des Quatre Vents displays jammy red cherry aromatics. This intense, concentrated, and broad wine
exhibits outstanding depth of fruit as well as a seamless, medium to fullbodied, silkytextured character. Pit fruits,
blackberries, red cherries, and flowers can be discerned in its generous and impressively long personality.
Anticipated maturity: 20042009.
G
Georges Duboeuf | Beaujolais - Julienas
2011
UWS: 90/100
The estatebottled 2011 Julienas Chateau de Julienas in its second appearance under the Duboeuf label, and
raised entirely in barrels, some quarter of which were new delivers a tart, juicy melange of red currant and black
raspberry tinged with brown spices and tobacco and allied to slightly gumnumbing tannins. An improvement over
last year's performance, this still arguably isn't yet really ready for prime time. The sense of density is impressive
and there is certainly some finishing invigoration accompanying the tannin. I'd considering revisiting this in a year.
I would not have expected any less an enthusiastic account of their 2011 vintage than was offered me by George and
Franck Duboeuf, but more to the point, they poured me as consistently excellent and interesting a collection as I
have ever experienced at this address. Potential alcohol levels came in almost entirely over 12% with only a few
wines being chaptalized, and certainly none were in the least compromised by elevated alcohol. (Nor, I was told, did
any acidification take place.) Early August heat spikes, opined George Duboeuf, furthered early maturation while
avoiding either vine shutdown or prematurely excessive accumulation of sugar. Duboeuf thinks the differences from
one site to another are especially pronounced this vintage, and cites its collection of Morgons in particular as
among the strongest I've had in years, both observations entirely consistent with my experience. It is from a desire
to showcase the natural purity of fruit that characterizes the 2011 vintage, says Duboeuf, that he elected to raise
only one socalled cuvee speciale (i.e. one raised in barrique) this year, a Fleurie. (Bottlings not designated other
than by their appellation represent what this house and the trade generally refer to as flower label. )
30 Jun 2013
89/100
A vibrant young wine, this marries the pleasantly sweet style of Duboeufwith a touch of earthiness in the tannins. Its
soft fruit creates a caressing texture while the structure holds it tight. Pour a glass while you?re grilling and then
with anything you might have grilled. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits, Harrison, NY
G
Georges Duboeuf | Beaujolais - Julienas Domaine de la Seigneurie
01 Oct 2012
90/100
2002
UWS: 90/100
The 2002 Julienas Domaine de la Seigneurie displays fresh, ripe black cherry and blackberry aromas. Medium
bodied, supple, and powerful, this wine is elegant, focused, and pure. Figs, cassis liqueur, and bilberries can be
found in its juicy, highly expressive, intense personality. Anticipated maturity: now2009.
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UWS: 90/100
Red Wines France
The 2002 Julienas Domaine de la Seigneurie displays fresh, ripe black cherry and blackberry aromas. Medium
bodied, supple, and powerful, this wine is elegant, focused, and pure. Figs, cassis liqueur, and bilberries can be
found in its juicy, highly expressive, intense personality. Anticipated maturity: now2009.
G
Georges Duboeuf | Beaujolais - Julienas Domaine de la Seigneurie
2005
UWS: 90/100
The violet and blueberryscented 2005 Julienas Domaine de la Seigneurie is a marvelously expressive, medium
bodied wine. Focused, pure, and long in the finish, this beauty is packed with roses, violets, red cherries, and
bilberries. Drink it over the next 4 years.
G
30 Jun 2006
Georges Duboeuf | Beaujolais - Julienas La Trinquee
8991/100
2003
UWS: 90/100
This one is very tight right now, with firm acidity holding the blackberry and raspberry fruit at bay. Taut, minerally
finish, but there's certainly enough here to merit some moderate cellaring. Best after 2004. 4,000 cases made. JM
15 Oct 2004
88/100
Sweet dark berries are found in the nose of the 2003 Julienas La Trinquee. This hugely concentrated, boisterously
expressive, immensely rich wine offers a mediumbodied personality bursting with candied blackberries, black
cherries, and dark raspberries. Fresh, seductively seamless, and proudly sporting a fruitfilled, prolonged finish, it is
a candidate for drinking over the next 10 years.
G
30 Jun 2004
Domaine Daniel Bouland | Beaujolais - Morgon Vieilles Vignes
9193/100
2007
UWS: 90/100
This offers a lot up front¿dried rosemary and thyme, along with blackberry jam and a hint of sweet smoke. Light
tannins and firm acidity lead to a more modest finish. Drink now through 2010. 250 cases imported. AN
28 Apr 2011
88/100
While it cannot compare with his 2008, Bouland's 2007 Morgon Vieilles Vignes is loaded with ripe, smoke and
cinnamontinged blackberry, underlain by beef marrow and crushed stone. Athletically lean and invigoratingly tart,
it finishes with that combination of bright fruit and mysterious meatiness and minerality of which its appellation is so
distinctively capable. This year, not just one wine but an entire family of Daniel Bouland's as yet still littleknown
wines is coming to the U.S., and they should not be missed!
D
Domaine Daniel Bouland | Beaujolais - Morgon Vieilles Vignes
01 Jan 2009
17/20
2008
UWS: 90/100
A soft core of red plum and black cherry fruit is covered with a crisp veneer, while a dash of sandalwood leaves a
slightly drying feel on the finish. Drink now. JM
28 Apr 2011
83/100
01 Jan 2010
18/20
The Bouland 2008 Morgon Vieilles Vignes exhibits a focus and grip rare in Beaujolais from this or for that matter
any vintage. Concentrated, brightly fresh blackberry and blueberry tinged with salt, chalk, and citrus oil, and
underlain by deep, smoky roast meatiness characterize this wine of palpable extract. While seamlessly, richly ripe
and 13% in natural alcohol, it nevertheless comes off as lithe and lively, with a peonylike floral perfume wafting all
the way through to a gloriously persistent, lipsmacking, soulsatisfying finish. Expect this cuvee (lightly fined but
unfiltered, incidentally, an approach he first took at the behest of importer Peter Weygandt) to be worth following
for close to a decade, perhaps even longer. This year, not just one wine but an entire family of Daniel Bouland's as
yet still littleknown wines is coming to the U.S.,
and they should not be missed!
270
slightly drying feel on the finish. Drink now. JM
83/100
28 Apr 2011
01 Jan 2010
18/20
The Bouland 2008 Morgon Vieilles Vignes exhibits a focus and grip rare in Beaujolais from this or for that matter
any vintage. Concentrated, brightly fresh blackberry and blueberry tinged with salt, chalk, and citrus oil, and
underlain by deep, smoky roast meatiness characterize this wine of palpable extract. While seamlessly, richly ripe
and 13% in natural alcohol, it nevertheless comes off as lithe and lively, with a peonylike floral perfume wafting all
the way through to a gloriously persistent, lipsmacking, soulsatisfying finish. Expect this cuvee (lightly fined but
unfiltered, incidentally, an approach he first took at the behest of importer Peter Weygandt) to be worth following
for close to a decade, perhaps even longer. This year, not just one wine but an entire family of Daniel Bouland's as
yet still littleknown wines is coming to the U.S., and they should not be missed!
Red Wines France
D
Georges Duboeuf | Beaujolais - Morgon
2006
UWS: 91/100
Un jus frais de gamay où le bois est finement associé au fruit et à la rondeur suave de la violette. Et quel volume
pour finir! Une grande bouteille. (25 000 bouteilles)
G
Georges Duboeuf | Beaujolais - Morgon Belles Grives
01 Jan 2009
16,5/20
2005
UWS: 91/100
I adored the waxy black cherry and violet aromatics of the 2005 Morgon Belles Grives. This explosive offering is
spicy, reveals gorgeous depth to its red fruit dominated character, as well as immense concentration and extract.
Medium to fullbodied, it long finish is filled with tannin yet it is ripe and sweet. Projected maturity: 20072015.
G
30 Jun 2006
9092/100
2008
UWS: 90/100
On the tannic side of Gamay, this could be young Pinot Noir in its mineral structure and solid texture. It is a wine
for aging with its black plum and spice flavors, with the acidity lighting up the aftertaste.
The 2008 Morgon Belles Grives representing another large lot is brimming with bright red raspberry right down
to the seeds, giving an invigoratingly tart, faintly bitter cask to its sappy, truly palatestaining fruit. A lovely, irislike
bitter sweet floral note wafts throughout. I'd never heard of this property, but I'd put money on bottles of this wine
being worth following for three or more years, and I certainly hope some of them will end up in the U.S. Consistent
in style and amazingly low in price, the myriad Beaujolais bottlings of George Duboeuf continue to represent
outstanding values in the American marketplace. In April, I tasted nearly their entire range of 2008s, with few
exceptions, already bottled. The overwhelming majority of these made my cut as value recommendations, including
some from among that wide range of domaines with which Duboeuf has longstanding commercial relationships
that might not show up in the U.S. market. The socalled Selections Georges Duboeuf cuvees continue to bear a
variation on this negociant's signature flower labels, but to save space in our print edition, please assume that any
wine not otherwise designated refers to a member of that class. In general, I have preferred DuBoeuf's Beaujolais
bottlings in their youth, with a few of the domaine crus having exhibited with bottle age a complexity concomitant
with the effort to cellar them, and where not otherwise noted, my recommendation is to enjoy the following wines
over the next couple of years. The Duboeuf 2008 BeaujolaisVillages at 30,000 cases, representing their largest
single lot of wine, and twice the volume of their appellation Beaujolais was a bit green and rustic by comparison,
and multiple bottles of a Chateau des Vierres bottling were oddly inexpressive and drying on the occasion of my
visit. Duboeuf's flower label 2008 Fleurie is another of their wines of this vintage that is atypically austere, and in
this instance a bit much so, and their 2008 Fleurie Domaine des Quatre Vents and Fleurie Chateau des Bachelards
were a bit drying and rough under the influence both of its barrel component and its very recent bottling when I
tasted it.
G
2009
UWS: 90/100
Tannic and mineral, this is intensely structured. With its firm tannins and dark plum flavors, it is on the dry side,
needing 23 years to show its best. This is Beaujolais for aging.
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Red Wines France
UWS: 90/100
Tannic and mineral, this is intensely structured. With its firm tannins and dark plum flavors, it is on the dry side,
needing 23 years to show its best. This is Beaujolais for aging.
The 2009 Morgon Belles Grives representing as usual a second Duboeuf blend (beyond their selection flower
label) from across several of this appellation's subregions, and tasted from tank smells of strawberry and cherry
preserves with hints of raw beef. Infectiously juicy and bright, it finishes invigoratingly and salivainducing with tart
berry skin and salt, yet an undertone of meatiness also persists that is apt to become more prominent as the wine
evolves, which it ought to do nicely for 34 years. The vast and on the whole stylistically consistent range of
Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais bottlings a majority issuing from individual domaines represents a reliable source
of value, and this has seldom been more true (nor has the range most, but not all of which, I tasted been more
vast) than from 2009, which it is clear Duboeuf considers as fine a vintage as he has witnessed although he notes,
It was very difficult this year to choose the date of bottling, and many wines were still in tank awaiting that decision
when I tasted in April. I continue to find as a general rule that Duboeuf's wines are best drunk within two years of
bottling, so in my notes I have made reference to aging potential only for any wines that I expect might be exceptions
to that rule of thumb. (Wines identified solely by their appellation are socalled Selections Georges Duboeuf
cuvees, labeled with his company's signature flower labels. There are Regnie and Chenas selection bottlings that I
did not taste, the latter being the sole bottling of its appellation this vintage, due to the ravages of hail.)
G
Georges Duboeuf | Beaujolais - Morgon Cote du Py
2010
UWS: 90/100
A firmly terroirdriven wine, solidly based on its tannins and the richest of red fruits. Very mineral, chewy at this
young stage, densely concentrated, the acidity a sharp light through the fruit. Powerful stuff.
G
Georges Duboeuf | Beaujolais - Morgon Domaine de la Chaponne
01 Oct 2011
90/100
2008
UWS: 90/100
A big, solid wine, dominated by both tannins and dark red fruits. This is an impressive wine, its structure full of dark
corners. The acidity is an integral part of the rich fruits. Definitely ageworthy.
Scented with mint and lavender as well as with intimations of the blue and black fruits that follow on the palate, the
2008 Morgon Domaine de la Chapone is another candidate for alterego to the wellknown Jean Descombes'
Morgon. A firm feel and surprisingly stony underpinnings, when combined with the bitter edge of herbs and fruit
skin, give this a somewhat austere impression (especially by Duboeuf house standards), but it is quite impressive in
its way a suggestion of savory sirloin juices develops in the open glass and should gain from some time in bottle.
Consistent in style and amazingly low in price, the myriad Beaujolais bottlings of George Duboeuf continue to
represent outstanding values in the American marketplace. In April, I tasted nearly their entire range of 2008s, with
few exceptions, already bottled. The overwhelming majority of these made my cut as value recommendations,
including some from among that wide range of domaines with which Duboeuf has longstanding commercial
relationships that might not show up in the U.S. market. The socalled Selections Georges Duboeuf cuvees
continue to bear a variation on this negociant's signature flower labels, but to save space in our print edition, please
assume that any wine not otherwise designated refers to a member of that class. In general, I have preferred
272
assume that any wine not otherwise designated refers to a member of that class. In general, I have preferred
Red Wines France
G
Georges Duboeuf | Beaujolais - Morgon Domaine de la Chaponne
2011
UWS: 90/100
Duboeuf's 2011 Morgon Domaine de la Chaponne offers metaphorically cooler blue fruit and hightoned herbal and
bittersweet floral accents when compared with its immediate stable mates, and its smokiness as well as finegrained
invigorating tannins are both decidedly black tealike. While marginally less complex, texturally refined, or vibrant
than the corresponding Domaine des Versauds, this outstanding value should also remain impressive at least
through 2015. I would not have expected any less an enthusiastic account of their 2011 vintage than was offered me
by George and Franck Duboeuf, but more to the point, they poured me as consistently excellent and interesting a
collection as I have ever experienced at this address. Potential alcohol levels came in almost entirely over 12% with
only a few wines being chaptalized, and certainly none were in the least compromised by elevated alcohol. (Nor, I
was told, did any acidification take place.) Early August heat spikes, opined George Duboeuf, furthered early
maturation while avoiding either vine shutdown or prematurely excessive accumulation of sugar. Duboeuf thinks
the differences from one site to another are especially pronounced this vintage, and cites its collection of Morgons in
particular as among the strongest I've had in years, both observations entirely consistent with my experience. It is
from a desire to showcase the natural purity of fruit that characterizes the 2011 vintage, says Duboeuf, that he
elected to raise only one socalled cuvee speciale (i.e. one raised in barrique) this year, a Fleurie. (Bottlings not
designated other than by their appellation represent what this house and the trade generally refer to as flower
label. )
G
Georges Duboeuf | Beaujolais - Morgon Domaine de Montchavy
30 Jun 2013
90/100
2005
UWS: 92/100
Wonderful scents of violets, blueberries and black cherries emanate from the glass of the 2005 Morgon Domaine de
Montchavy. Medium to fullbodied and sensual, it coats the taster's palate with copious quantities of spices, grapes,
cherries, bilberries, and blackberries. Exhibiting outstanding purity and density of fruit as well as length, this
Morgon is a candidate for drinking over the next 8 years.
G
Georges Duboeuf | Beaujolais - Morgon Domaine de Montchavy
30 Jun 2006
92/100
2009
UWS: 90/100
A textured, structured wine, solid and packed with tannins. It is full of concentrated black currant and prune flavors,
layered with dark coffee. It is worth aging for at least 12 years.
Representing as usual one of Duboeuf's larger lots, the 2009 Morgon Domaine Mont Chavy (tasted from tank)
continues a qualitative streak that obviously reflects high viticultural standards. With juicy vivacity yet considerable
richness, this pours forth ripe, fresh blackberry and mulberry, accented with bay, mint, sage, black tea, and citrus
oil, as well as notes of game. As it sloughs off a bit of reduction, an even sharper focus and stimulating edge of berry
skin emerge, along with stonelicking underlying minerality in a lipsmacking finish that delivers on the complexity
promised in the nose. This exceptional value should remain delightful for at least 34 years. The vast and on the
whole stylistically consistent range of Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais bottlings a majority issuing from individual
domaines represents a reliable source of value, and this has seldom been more true (nor has the range most, but
not all of which, I tasted been more vast) than from 2009, which it is clear Duboeuf considers as fine a vintage as
he has witnessed although he notes, It was very difficult this year to choose the date of bottling, and many wines
were still in tank awaiting that decision when I tasted in April. I continue to find as a general rule that Duboeuf's
wines are best drunk within two years of bottling, so in my notes I have made reference to aging potential only for
any wines that I expect might be exceptions to that rule of thumb. (Wines identified solely by their appellation are so
called Selections Georges Duboeuf cuvees, labeled with his company's signature flower labels. There are Regnie
and Chenas selection bottlings that I did not taste, the latter being the sole bottling of its appellation this vintage,
due to the ravages of hail.)
273
promised in the nose. This exceptional value should remain delightful for at least 34 years. The vast and on the
whole stylistically consistent range of Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais bottlings a majority issuing from individual
domaines represents a reliable source of value, and this has seldom been more true (nor has the range most, but
not all of which, I tasted been more vast) than from 2009, which it is clear Duboeuf considers as fine a vintage as
he has witnessed although he notes, It was very difficult this year to choose the date of bottling, and many wines
were still in tank awaiting that decision when I tasted in April. I continue to find as a general rule that Duboeuf's
wines are best drunk within two years of bottling, so in my notes I have made reference to aging potential only for
any wines that I expect might be exceptions to that rule of thumb. (Wines identified solely by their appellation are so
Red Wines France
G
Georges Duboeuf | Beaujolais - Morgon Domaine Jean Descombes
2005
UWS: 90/100
Offers a blast of chocolatecovered maraschino cherries, along with mocha, spice and mineral notes. Round, sweet,
pure and inviting. Drink now through 2007. 7,500 cases made. JM
G
Georges Duboeuf | Beaujolais - Morgon Domaine Jean Descombes
31 Oct 2006
90/100
2009
UWS: 90/100
Light tannins and a smoky mineral note frame this lush red, which displays layers of black cherry, raspberry
ganache and tea rose flavors. There's a spicy thread running through the wine, leading to a fresh, firm finish. Drink
now. AN
28 Feb 2011
93/100
Lean and tannic, this is a tough wine, its tannins dominating the underlying juicy fruit. It has power, with a firm and
dry texture. Give it 23 years to develop.
Beaujolais Noveau Burgundy. #3; COLORmedium/dark; NOSEflowers and fruit; violet and strawberry; like a
college girls dorm room; PALATEit's got that brightness; great weight on the midpalate; this is a great wine;
bright, fresh; for $15 bones, this is a screaming value; moderate tannin; relatively bright acidity with beautiful mid
palate richness; and a great grip; GV89+
Wine Lib TV © (WLTV) 12 Nov 2010 89+/100
Effusively and sweetly fruity as usual, the 2009 Morgon Jean Descombes (tasted from tank) is scented with creme de
cassis, black raspberry preserves and pear liqueur; silkenly saturates the palate with rich yet infectiously juicy fruit
concentrate; and introduces a saline note that along with its sense of juicy freshness makes for a stimulating finish.
This perennially outstanding value will probably pick up more complexity over the next 1218 months and be worth
following for at least twice that long. (That said, in the form of La Chaponne and Mont Chavy, Jean Descombes has,
for a change, got serious competition in this vintage from within the Duboeuf portfolio.) The vast and on the whole
stylistically consistent range of Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais bottlings a majority issuing from individual domaines
represents a reliable source of value, and this has seldom been more true (nor has the range most, but not all of
which, I tasted been more vast) than from 2009, which it is clear Duboeuf considers as fine a vintage as he has
witnessed although he notes, It was very difficult this year to choose the date of bottling, and many wines were
still in tank awaiting that decision when I tasted in April. I continue to find as a general rule that Duboeuf's wines
are best drunk within two years of bottling, so in my notes I have made reference to aging potential only for any
wines that I expect might be exceptions to that rule of thumb. (Wines identified solely by their appellation are so
G
Georges Duboeuf | Morgon Domaine des Versauds
2011
UWS: 91/100
Reflecting more than 40 years' collaboration spanning three generations of the Poulard family, Duboeuf's 2011
Morgon Domaine des Versauds combines ripe black raspberry with beet root for a sweet and earthy palate presence
tinged with a bite of black pepper and hints of peat, black tea and smoked meat that contribute to a mouthwateringly
savory and invigorating finish. There is a positive sense of extract or density here yet infectious juiciness and
buoyancy, too. Hints of iris and wet stone in the empty glass add to the imposing complexity offered by this
extraordinary value. Enjoy it through at least 2015. I would not have expected any less an enthusiastic account of
their 2011 vintage than was offered me by George and Franck Duboeuf, but more to the point, they poured me as
consistently excellent and interesting a collection
as Ibyhave
ever experienced at this address. Potential alcohol levels
Published
90pluswines.com
274
came in almost entirely over 12% with only a few wines being chaptalized, and certainly none were in the least
compromised by elevated alcohol. (Nor, I was told, did any acidification take place.) Early August heat spikes,
UWS: 91/100
Reflecting more than 40 years' collaboration spanning three generations of the Poulard family, Duboeuf's 2011
Morgon Domaine des Versauds combines ripe black raspberry with beet root for a sweet and earthy palate presence
tinged with a bite of black pepper and hints of peat, black tea and smoked meat that contribute to a mouthwateringly
savory and invigorating finish. There is a positive sense of extract or density here yet infectious juiciness and
buoyancy, too. Hints of iris and wet stone in the empty glass add to the imposing complexity offered by this
extraordinary value. Enjoy it through at least 2015. I would not have expected any less an enthusiastic account of
their 2011 vintage than was offered me by George and Franck Duboeuf, but more to the point, they poured me as
consistently excellent and interesting a collection as I have ever experienced at this address. Potential alcohol levels
came in almost entirely over 12% with only a few wines being chaptalized, and certainly none were in the least
compromised by elevated alcohol. (Nor, I was told, did any acidification take place.) Early August heat spikes,
opined George Duboeuf, furthered early maturation while avoiding either vine shutdown or prematurely excessive
accumulation of sugar. Duboeuf thinks the differences from one site to another are especially pronounced this
vintage, and cites its collection of Morgons in particular as among the strongest I've had in years, both
observations entirely consistent with my experience. It is from a desire to showcase the natural purity of fruit that
characterizes the 2011 vintage, says Duboeuf, that he elected to raise only one socalled cuvee speciale (i.e. one
raised in barrique) this year, a Fleurie. (Bottlings not designated other than by their appellation represent what this
house and the trade generally refer to as flower label. )
Red Wines France
G
30 Jun 2013
Joseph Drouhin | Beaujolais - Morgon
91/100
2005
UWS: 90/100
Vibrant red. Expansive, vaguely exotic nose suggests dark cherry, smoky minerals and fresh flowers. Pliant red and
dark berry flavors are framed by lightly bitter tannins that melt away on the back end, allowing the fruit to come up.
Finishes with very good sweetness, breadth and persistence. I really like this wine's balance. (DreyfusAshby & Co.,
New York, NY)
Jo
01 Jul 2008
Joseph Drouhin | Beaujolais - Morgon
90/100
2010
UWS: 90/100
This accessible red is fresh and supple, showing a smoky mineral side that's balanced by fresh currant and black
raspberry fruit, with a thread of exotic ground spice. Drink now through 201. AN
Wine Spectator © (WS), Alison Napjus 31 Dec 2012 90/100
Bright ruby. Black raspberry and cherry on the floral and spiceaccented nose. Bright, lively red fruit and floral
flavors are lifted by zesty minerality and show a refreshingly delicate character. Finishes racy and precise, with
strong mineral cut and very good length.
Jo
01 Apr 2012
Georges Duboeuf | Beaujolais - Moulin-a-Vent
89/100
2006
UWS: 90/100
Un fût habilement grillé domine les débats sans écraser le fruit, l'ensemble est fondant et sa finale poivrée vous fait
saliver. Une belle cuvée d'une maison régulière dans la qualité de ses différents crus. (36 000 bouteilles)
G
Georges Duboeuf | Beaujolais - Moulin-a-Vent Carquelin
01 Jan 2009
16/20
2003
UWS: 92/100
Nearly black in color, this very rich offering is saturated with blackberry, black currant and fig fruit, with lush toast,
spice and cocoa notes. Long, fleshy, dark fruitfilled finish shows power and balance. Drink now through 2006.
1,500 cases made. JM
15 Oct 2004
91/100
A warm, embracing wine of considerable weight and density, the 2003 MoulinaVent Carquelin is deep, sweet, and
concentrated. Black roasted fruits, spices, licorice, and tar can be discerned in its backward character. This
immensely powerful wine has a big future before it. Anticipated maturity: 20072014.
30 Jun 2004
9193/100
275
UWS: 92/100
Nearly black in color, this very rich offering is saturated with blackberry, black currant and fig fruit, with lush toast,
spice and cocoa notes. Long, fleshy, dark fruitfilled finish shows power and balance. Drink now through 2006.
1,500 cases made. JM
Red Wines France
15 Oct 2004
91/100
A warm, embracing wine of considerable weight and density, the 2003 MoulinaVent Carquelin is deep, sweet, and
concentrated. Black roasted fruits, spices, licorice, and tar can be discerned in its backward character. This
immensely powerful wine has a big future before it. Anticipated maturity: 20072014.
G
30 Jun 2004
9193/100
2005
UWS: 92/100
A concentrated behemoth, the red cherry, oak, and blackberryscented 2005 MoulinaVent Carquelin is medium to
fullbodied, suave, and silkytextured. Chocolate, licorice, blackberries, black cherries, and roses are found in this
structured offering's superexpressive character. Projected maturity: 20082015.
G
30 Jun 2006
9192/100
2006
UWS: 90/100
The richness and structure of 2006 are evident in this wine, which has some spicy wood character as well as bouncy
red fruits and soft tannins. The acidity and the wood need another month or two to properly come together. But this
is certainly superior Beaujolais.
G
2007
UWS: 90/100
Cette importante société de négoce a été créée en 1964 par Georges Duboeuf qui est toujours à la tête de
l'entreprise. Elle exporte 78 % de sa production vers près de cent vingt pays. Trois de ses cuvées se distinguent cette
année: le brouilly 2007 (5 à 8 €) et le fleurie 2007 (5 à 8 €) décrochent chacun une étoile, tandis que ce moulinà
vent frôle le coup de coeur. Dans sa robe rouge intense, il offre des senteurs complexes et concentrées de fruits mûrs
mariées à des notes boisées. L'attaque ronde et puissante, en parfaite harmonie avec les impressions du nez,
découvre du gras et des tanins fondus. Déjà à son apogée, ce vin fort séduisant pourra être gardé deux ou trois ans.
G
01 Jan 2010
2/3
2009
UWS: 91/100
A solidly tannic wine that powers with bitter chocolate, plum skin and black berry flavors. Very concentrated, it has
the structure and acidity to offer aging potential for 23 years.
G
Georges Duboeuf | Beaujolais - Moulin-a-Vent Domaine de la Tour Du Bief
2002
UWS: 90/100
Alluring, Burgundianlike nose of black cherry jam, plum, truffle and spice, with hints of sousbois on the palate as
well. Yet still maintains pure, silky Gamay fruit, with dark chocolate and toast filling in on the finish. Lovely. Drink
now through 2004. 4,000 cases imported. JM
Cassis and blackberries can be found in the nose of the dense yet refined 2002 MoulinaVent Domaine de la Tour
de Bief. This concentrated, powerful Beaujolais is harmonious, juicy, and crammed with layers of red cherries
awash in spiced oak. It is a suave, sexy, elegant effort with a long, pure, fruitpacked finish. Drink it between 2004
and 2010.
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G
Georges Duboeuf | Beaujolais - Moulin-a-Vent Domaine des Rosiers
2008
UWS: 90/100
The 2008 MoulinaVent Domaine des Rosiers still in tank when I tasted it suggests chocolatecovered
raspberries and richly coats the palate while retaining enough freshness to both complement its glossy, creamy
texture and keep its sheer sweetness of fruit from veering into the confection. There is a distinct note of wood but it is
well integrated and does not disturb the fruit in a long finish. Consistent in style and amazingly low in price, the
myriad Beaujolais bottlings of George Duboeuf continue to represent outstanding values in the American
marketplace. In April, I tasted nearly their entire range of 2008s, with few exceptions, already bottled. The
overwhelming majority of these made my cut as value recommendations, including some from among that wide
range of domaines with which Duboeuf has longstanding commercial relationships that might not show up in the
U.S. market. The socalled Selections Georges Duboeuf cuvees continue to bear a variation on this negociant's
signature flower labels, but to save space in our print edition, please assume that any wine not otherwise designated
refers to a member of that class. In general, I have preferred DuBoeuf's Beaujolais bottlings in their youth, with a
few of the domaine crus having exhibited with bottle age a complexity concomitant with the effort to cellar them, and
where not otherwise noted, my recommendation is to enjoy the following wines over the next couple of years. The
Duboeuf 2008 BeaujolaisVillages at 30,000 cases, representing their largest single lot of wine, and twice the
volume of their appellation Beaujolais was a bit green and rustic by comparison, and multiple bottles of a Chateau
des Vierres bottling were oddly inexpressive and drying on the occasion of my visit. Duboeuf's flower label 2008
Fleurie is another of their wines of this vintage that is atypically austere, and in this instance a bit much so, and
their 2008 Fleurie Domaine des Quatre Vents and Fleurie Chateau des Bachelards were a bit drying and rough
under the influence both of its barrel component and its very recent bottling when I tasted it.
G
Georges Duboeuf | Beaujolais - Saint Amour Domaine des Sablons
1995
UWS: 90/100
True partisans of highlyextracted, muscular, fullbodied, ageworthy Beaujolais will have to check out the 1995
Domaine des Sablons St.Amour. It is one of the biggest, richest, and most formidablyendowed of Georges
Duboeuf's 1995s. The color is an opaque purple. The wine is rich, full, and massive in the mouth. Deep, with plenty
of sweet fruit, but still unevolved, and youthful, this supple, muscular, exceptionally concentrated Beaujolais should
drink well for the next 56 years. Certainly it could easily be inserted in a blind tasting with $35$50 a bottle
premiers crus from Burgundy. I would not be surprised to see it show exceptionally well. Latereleased 1995
Beaujolais from the king of that region, Georges Duboeuf, the offerings reviewed in this section possess slightly
more intensity and fullness than the earlyreleased wines that were reviewed in issue #105. They are fine bargains
that offer 23 years of drinkability, and in the case of fuller, more powerful styles, 45 years.
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G
Champy | Beaune Les Champs Pimont
2005
UWS: 90/100
A broadshouldered, muscular red, from the beef and irontinged aromas to the dense structure and black cherry
and blackberry flavors. Drinkable now, the fruit is so rich and mouthcoating, but will improve with time. Best from
2012 through 2025. 150 cases made. BS
Wine Spectator © (WS), Bruce Sanderson 31 May 2008 90/100
01 Jan 2008
16/20
Savoury nose, a little reduced at the moment, rather light in the middle but fruit is well sustained. (JH)
28 Jul 2007
15/20
Producer note: Winemaker Dimitri Bazas and director Pierre Meurgey told me that they have elected to change
somewhat their approach to vinification because they're looking for a change in the end result. To wit, they're now
looking for more fruit and somewhat less structure in their reds as they're no longer persuaded that making very old
school burgundy is in the best interests of a clientele that tends to its drink reds at less than 10 years of age.
Meurgey observed that it's fine to make wines that possess exceptional potential to mature over decades and
decades and we indeed were famous for doing just that before we sold to Maison Jadot. Now however, the feedback
that we're getting suggests that our clients want more accessibility earlier. So after much debate, we've decide to
modify somewhat our approach to build wines that should mature, at the top levels, over a 10 to 20 year horizon
rather than 50. To that end we are no longer doing a postfermentation heating of the must and are lowering the
percentage of new wood. Still, we are not throwing the baby out with the bath water as it were because we're
continuing with some wines to retain 15 to 20% of the stems, which is hardly a commercial approach in the region
today. We're also going to continue with a longer than average élevage period of 16 to 18 months. And I want to
emphasize that these changes are essentially stylistic, not qualitative. As to the 2005 vintage, Bazas said that the
fruit was harvested between the 17th and 25th of September and that a small amount of sorting was required.
Overall, he terms the quality as excellent and one that he'd be happy with every year. In terms of the results
obtained, I would agree that the changes have modified the character of the wines somewhat but it would require a
careful taster, and one who has been a fan of the domaine for some years, to really notice an appreciable change as
the wines are still built to age as many of the 2005s were made with a percentage of the stems included. Earlier
accessibility , at least with the 2005 vintage at the upper levels, means more like 10 to 12 years rather than 15. In
other news, Meurgey told me that he had signed a contract to farm the appellations formerly exploited by Domaine
CarràCourbin. I did not ask specifically which appellations were involved but there should be a lot more Volnay in
2006 than before. (Diva Beaune, Beaune, France [email protected]; Jeroboam Wines, New York, NY; Agent Pol
Roger and Haynes, Hanson & Clark, UK). Tasting note: A moderately wooded nose combines with a pretty and
notably ripe nose of red, blue and violet aromas that complement the attractive full, fresh and rich flavors that
display plenty of earth notes on the punchy, delicious but altogether serious finish. Very good quality here and worth
a look.
Burghound © (BH)
C
01 Apr 2007
Domaine Leroy | Pommard Clos Micot
90/100
1966
UWS: 92/100
Tasting note: (with thanks to Dr. Reed Day). A fully mature but curious nose of pungent dill seed and celery root
along with sous bois and earth hints leads to moderately rich, sweet and utterly delicious flavors that still possess
plenty of punch and life on the velvety and slighlty rustic finish that is also admirably persistent. The nose here is
obviously atypical and though by no means unpleasant, clearly isn't what one would expect from an aged Pommard
as the celery component is not subtle.
Burghound © (BH)
19 Apr 2008
88/100
Leroy SA Pommard Premier Cru Clos Micot 1966
01 Jan 2007
18/20
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Bourgogne (Cotes de Nuits / communes)
D
Chateau les Justices | Gevrey Chambertin
2002
UWS: 90/100
A noter l'évolution de ce domaine qui est passé d'une exploitation familiale en cave coopérative à un GAEC qui
élabore et vend directement ses produits. Cette cuvée, au joli nez de fruits rouges et de cassis, possède des tanins
puissants dès l'attaque, gras et enrobés. Harmonieuse, la charpente est bien équilibrée et la finale ramène les fruits
rouges. Le bergerac sec 2002 est lui aussi très fruité et flatteur: il présente un bon équilibre entre acidité et rondeur
et obtient une étoile. Deux vins typiques, d'excellente qualité, très représentatifs de l'AOC.
C
Domaine Thomas Moillard | Gevrey Chambertin
01 Jan 2004
2/3
2006
UWS: 90/100
Very pale rim. Sturdy fruit. Very workmanlike with a certain chestnut substance to it. I think that blind an
experienced burgundy taster would know that this was Gevrey so well done, Moillard for that. It's certainly not in
the top tank of village Gevreys but is not too far below it.
D
30 Jan 2008
Maison Louis Latour | Marsannay
16/20
2003
UWS: 91/100
Deep crimson. Relatively evolved nose with unusually attractive freshness for a 2003. Now this seems to have some
race and soul. Lively without much raisin character. Relatively simple but a good wine for early drinking. Just a
little tannic still.
M
26 Jul 2005
Domaine Georges Chicotot | Nuits Saint Georges Les Saint Georges
16,5/20
1988
UWS: 90/100
The most forward of Chicotot's 1988s was the 1988 Nuits St.Georges Les SaintGeorges, which had a fabulous
bouquet of black, plumlike fruit, smoky oak, and licorice. In the mouth, it has exceptional ripeness, full body,
awesome extract, and a firm, tannic, hard finish. I would advise 4 to 5 years of cellaring, given the construction of
Chicotot's wines.
D
31 Jan 1990
Maison de Vin Shaps & Roucher-Sarazin | Nuits Saint Georges
90/100
2005
UWS: 92/100
Decanter © (DC)
28 Apr 2011
4/5
A tame version, with raspberry, black currant and mineral flavors. Shows its wild side on the finish, where the fine
grained tannins emerge, but overall this is elegant and balanced, with excellent length. Best from 2010 through
2020. 122 cases made. BS
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Corsica
M
Antoine Arena | Patrimonio Grotte di Sole
2004
UWS: 92/100
01 Jan 2006
18/20
280
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Languedoc
A
Chateau Aiguilloux | Corbieres
2006
UWS: 90/100
Nez éclatant de poivres, de fruits noirs, suivi par une bouche magnifique, racée et gourmande avec un tanin aérien.
Du bel ouvrage.
C
28 Apr 2011
Chateau Aiguilloux | Corbieres
16/20
2007
UWS: 90/100
On attendait un grand 2007 dans cette cuvée de base, constituée de carignan et de grenache. Il est au rendezvous
avec de l'alcool, certes, mais aussi une finesse de tanin impressionnante et une pointe de salinité.
C
28 Apr 2011
Chateau De Cabriac | Corbieres
16/20
2008
UWS: 91/100
A very forward, perfumed, floral and herbal nose leads off this dark purple, enigmatic red, a blend of syrah (45
percent), mourvèdre (20 percent), grenache (20 percent) and carignan (15 percent). It has distinct grapey aromas
and flavours, probably due to the carbonic maceration used for the carignan. It has very good structure, with firm
tannins, and is quirky in an appealing way. A great value example from the south, with power and complexity. Pair
with grilled meats, preferably lamb or boar, with plenty of fresh herbs.
C
28 Jan 2012
Chateau De Jonquières | Corbieres
91/100
2000
UWS: 90/100
C
01 Jan 2008
Chateau de la Liquiere | Faugeres
16/20
2009
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
C
Chateau d'Oupia | Minervois
11 Jan 2012
3/5
2009
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
C
Chateau Du Grand Caumont | Corbieres
11 Jan 2012
3/5
2008
UWS: 90/100
Vaste domaine implanté à l'emplacement d'une villa galloromaine. Le château a brûlé à la Révolution. Quant au
vignoble, (re)constitué en 1850, il a été acquis en 1906 par Louis Rigal, le fabricant de roquefort. Depuis 2004, sa
petitefille Laurence est aux commandes et Patrick Blanchard assure la production. Leur cuvée Tradition a été
remarquée. De la robe sombre et brillante s'échappent d'intenses senteurs de petits fruits rouges des bois bien mûrs
90pluswines.com
soulignées de touches empyreumatiques etPublished
épicées. by
D'une
belle ampleur, le vin évolue sur des tanins souples281
et
s'attarde longuement en bouche. Voyez le prix... et le nombre de bouteilles... Si vous mettez la main sur l'une d'entre
Red Wines France
UWS: 90/100
Vaste domaine implanté à l'emplacement d'une villa galloromaine. Le château a brûlé à la Révolution. Quant au
vignoble, (re)constitué en 1850, il a été acquis en 1906 par Louis Rigal, le fabricant de roquefort. Depuis 2004, sa
petitefille Laurence est aux commandes et Patrick Blanchard assure la production. Leur cuvée Tradition a été
remarquée. De la robe sombre et brillante s'échappent d'intenses senteurs de petits fruits rouges des bois bien mûrs
soulignées de touches empyreumatiques et épicées. D'une belle ampleur, le vin évolue sur des tanins souples et
s'attarde longuement en bouche. Voyez le prix... et le nombre de bouteilles... Si vous mettez la main sur l'une d'entre
elles, accompagnezla d'un osso bucco ou d'une épaule d'agneau.
01 Jan 2011
2/3
Belle matière, de la rondeur et encore de la tenue, bien que l'on trouve au nez et en bouche une fine évolution sur les
épices douces. Mais le vin se tient et possède du style et de la longueur. Un régal pour cet hiver.
C
01 Jan 2010
Chateau La Dournie | St.-Chinian Élise
15,5/20
2007
UWS: 90/100
Élise est un bien joli saintchinian que les schistes ont coloré de fumé, de grillé et de fruits rouges. La finale
s'exprime sur des fruits rouges bien mûrs prolongés par des épices.
28 Apr 2011
16/20
Coup de coeur l'an passé pour le 2006, cette cuvée révèle toute la complexité de son terroir de schistes. Le pourpre
intense de sa robe est de bon augure. Des senteurs de garrigue s'en échappent sans tarder, suivies de près par des
notes de pain grillé, de poivre et de tapenade. Du volume et de la fraîcheur, de la puissance et de la finesse: voici un
vin que vous pourrez garder ou déguster dès cet automne accompagné d'un canard aux olives noires.
C
Chateau la Roque | Coteaux du Languedoc - Pic Saint Loup
01 Jan 2010
2/3
2007
UWS: 90/100
There's a good sense of power in this intensely fruity red, with raspberry, kirsch, smoke and hints of garrigue. The
very concentrated finish features dark chocolate and mocha. Drink now through 2013. KM
C
30 Sep 2009
Chateau Maris | Minervois
90/100
2001
UWS: 91/100
Silky, mouthcoating flavors of blackberry, dark plum and chocolate give this fullbodied red a hedonistic allure.
Flavors are backed up by supple tannins and a lithe frame. Long finish is filled with spice and smoke. Drink now
through 2007. 830 cases made. KM
C
30 Apr 2004
91/100
2003
UWS: 91/100
Intense and brooding, with a broad, ripe core of dark plum, meat and spice flavors. Powerful, wellstructured and
balanced, with plenty of plum pudding notes as well. Dark chocolate and mole elements provide a rich, lingering
finish. Best from 2006 through 2010. 5,000 cases made. KM
C
2005
UWS: 90/100
A big statement but to my palate a bit rank and almost too 'wild' in a biodynamic way. It's very sweet and jam
packed with somehow wild floral life but it's hot and very rasping on the finish. Indigenous yeasts apparently. 80%
Carignan.
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17 Oct 2007
16/20
Red Wines France
UWS: 90/100
A big statement but to my palate a bit rank and almost too 'wild' in a biodynamic way. It's very sweet and jam
packed with somehow wild floral life but it's hot and very rasping on the finish. Indigenous yeasts apparently. 80%
Carignan.
C
17 Oct 2007
Chateau Maris | Minervois Carignan La Liviniere Les Vieilles Vignes
16/20
2001
UWS: 90/100
Deliciously fruity and concentrated medium to fullbodied red, with flavors of dark plum, smoke and spice that fan
out nicely, with spicy notes on the finish. Smooth, supple and internationally styled. Drink now through 2006. 330
cases made. KM
C
30 Apr 2004
Chateau Pech Redon | Coteaux du Languedoc - La Clape l'Epervier
90/100
2005
UWS: 90/100
La Clape a fourni cette cuvée de classe, puissante, avec des poivres bien dessinés, une pointe de salinité en finale et
des tanins ronds. Une fort belle évolution est prévisible.
C
28 Apr 2011
Chateau Sainte Eulalie | Minervois Tradition
16/20
2010
UWS: 90/100
Carignan, Grenache. Peter McCombie. Deep healthy crimson. Light, fruity and fresh. Not serious and dense but
beautifully balanced for easy drinking.
C
15 Oct 2012
Domaine De La Reynardière | Faugeres
16/20
2003
UWS: 90/100
Cité pour la cuvée Prestige en faugères rouge 2002 (8 à 11 €), c'est par son rosé que le domaine de La Reynardière
a enthousiasmé le jury. Des senteurs intenses de fraise et de framboise, des qualités gustatives de volume,
d'équilibre, de fruité, de persistance en synergie rendent ce rosé irrésistible! A offrir à des noix de SaintJacques au
beurre blanc.
01 Jan 2005
3/3
Rond, flatteur, chaleureux, vineux, avec de la chair. Un rosé de tonnelle au bon rapport qualité/prix.
D
01 Jan 2005
Domaine De La Reynardière | Faugeres
14/20
2005
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
D
Domaine de Poulvarel | Costieres de Nimes Les Perrottes
11 Jan 2012
3/5
2007
UWS: 95/100
Entré dans le Guide en 2005, ce jeune domaine est parti à la conquête des étoiles avec ses rosés d'abord, puis avec
ses rouges, et décroche la lune quatre ans après. Il a su tirer parti de chaque cépage, de chaque technique pour nous
offrir un vin d'un noir profond, intense et équilibré. L'élevage, pour moitié en fût de chêne pendant quinze mois,
confère au nez une grande complexité, mariage
de notes riches de fruits, de sousbois et d'épices. L'harmonie en
283
bouche s'appuie sur la douceur des fruits confiturés et sur une longue finale réglissée portée par des tanins fondus
soutenant l'ensemble.
Red Wines France
UWS: 95/100
Entré dans le Guide en 2005, ce jeune domaine est parti à la conquête des étoiles avec ses rosés d'abord, puis avec
ses rouges, et décroche la lune quatre ans après. Il a su tirer parti de chaque cépage, de chaque technique pour nous
offrir un vin d'un noir profond, intense et équilibré. L'élevage, pour moitié en fût de chêne pendant quinze mois,
confère au nez une grande complexité, mariage de notes riches de fruits, de sousbois et d'épices. L'harmonie en
bouche s'appuie sur la douceur des fruits confiturés et sur une longue finale réglissée portée par des tanins fondus
soutenant l'ensemble.
D
Domaine de Poulvarel | Costieres de Nimes Les Perrottes
01 Jan 2010
3/3
2009
UWS: 91/100
D
91/100
04 Oct 2012
Domaine Des Terres Falmet | St.-Chinian L'Ivresse des Cîmes
2003
UWS: 90/100
Falmet's 2003 SaintChinian l'Ivresses des Cimes while not likely to live up to its name ( the intoxication of the
summit ) unless one overindulges is full of black currant, chocolate, and black cherry, tinged with ginger and
cinnamon. With slight graininess of texture but a delightful elegance and effortless outpouring of fruit atypical for its
vintage, this blend of Syrah, Grenache, Carignan, and Cinsault will be best enjoyed over the next year or two. A
Connie and Patrick Allen Selection, United Estates Wine Imports, Worthington, OH; tel. (614) 5431427
88/100
31 Oct 2007
An inky, chewy red, showing plenty of beefy flavors, with notes of dried raspberry and hints of chocolate. Minerally
elements carry the dense finish. Syrah, Grenache, Carignane and Cinsault. Drink now. 850 cases made. KM
86/100
30 Jun 2007
Il faut vraiment aller à la découverte des vins sincères du solitaire et pugnace Yves Falmet, installé dans la zone
argilocalcaire de l'appellation, sur un long coteau plein nord. Son Ivresse des Cimes a une fermeté de tanins qui le
redresse dans un millésime capiteux comme 2003. Notes de fruits rouges macérés, chocolaté, tanins fermes en finale,
il sera parfait sur un gigot confit au herbes.
01 Jan 2007
16,5/20
Very rich and gamey with masses of punch. Needs substantial food a daube?
D
Domaine du Courbissac | Minervois
03 Jan 2006
17/20
2005
UWS: 90/100
Tempe's 2005 Minervois displays ripe, vivid black cherry and cassis with a tart fruit skin edge. Wet stone, salt, and
roasted meat undertones add depth and this preserves a gorgeous sense of sheer refreshment in the finish, even if it
misses the extra measure of savor of the equally youthful and bright 2004 (reviewed in issue 173, and retasted
alongside in December). Based on excellar prices, this bottling should continue to also offer exceptional value. As
the 2003, too, is still quite fresh and fascinating, one can assume this will be worth holding for at least 45 years.
Biodynamic Alsace vigneron Marc Tempe (partnered with film producer and wine enthusiast Reinhard Brundig)
spent two years exploring Mediterranean vineyards from Bandol to Banyuls before discovering these nearly 70
acres of wellventilated, clayrich, high hillsides (only a small portion of them planted) near La Liviniere. Tempe has
a vision of Minervois no less different from that of his neighbors than is his vision of Riesling, Pinot Gris, or
Auxerrois. He is interplanting Syrah and Grenache in extremely tight spacing, employing Acacia wood barrels,
bottling with next to no sulfur, and in general daring to think outside the box, with strikingly consistent and
delicious, infectiously juicy, mineralinflected, nuanced results. Tempe also seems to keep time differently from his
peers: the 2005s I tasted on the occasion of my December visit were expected to be released late this year, and both
the 2007s and (save for the basic AOC Minervois) 2006s were assembled and resting in tank (a fact I won't mention
again to save space). The potential for extended elevage in this place is exceptional, opines Tempe, but that said, he
tends to get the wines out of barrel after 69 months and into tank.
30 Jun 2009
90/100
284
spent two years exploring Mediterranean vineyards from Bandol to Banyuls before discovering these nearly 70
acres of wellventilated, clayrich, high hillsides (only a small portion of them planted) near La Liviniere. Tempe has
a vision of Minervois no less different from that of his neighbors than is his vision of Riesling, Pinot Gris, or
Auxerrois. He is interplanting Syrah and Grenache in extremely tight spacing, employing Acacia wood barrels,
bottling with next to no sulfur, and in general daring to think outside the box, with strikingly consistent and
delicious, infectiously juicy, mineralinflected, nuanced results. Tempe also seems to keep time differently from his
peers: the 2005s I tasted on the occasion of my December visit were expected to be released late this year, and both
the 2007s and (save for the basic AOC Minervois) 2006s were assembled and resting in tank (a fact I won't mention
again to save space). The potential for extended elevage in this place is exceptional, opines Tempe, but that said, he
tends to get the wines out of barrel after 69 months and into tank.
Red Wines France
D
30 Jun 2009
90/100
2006
UWS: 90/100
Au nez de la cerise, des épices douces, quelques notes herbacées, de la tapenade. En bouche de la puissance, du
fruit, des tanins encore un peu présents, de la fraîcheur, de l'équilibre. C'est simple mais si bon!
26 Jan 2012
15/20
The basic Courbissac 2006 Minervois (which never left a cement tank) delivers a combination of bittersweet
chocolate and salted, toasted walnuts with deep, ripe yet invigoratingly tart blackberry and mulberry fruit. Hints of
black tea and orange zest add further palate stimulation. Tea, black fruit, and herb scents waft through the entire
proceeding, but this dense, bright cuvee is aromatically relatively subdued, the excitement being reserved for the
palate, and a finish full of vim and vigor. I wouldn't be surprised to see this reward 46 years' cellaring, although it
is delightful already. Biodynamic Alsace vigneron Marc Tempe (partnered with film producer and wine enthusiast
Reinhard Brundig) spent two years exploring Mediterranean vineyards from Bandol to Banyuls before discovering
these nearly 70 acres of wellventilated, clayrich, high hillsides (only a small portion of them planted) near La
Liviniere. Tempe has a vision of Minervois no less different from that of his neighbors than is his vision of Riesling,
Pinot Gris, or Auxerrois. He is interplanting Syrah and Grenache in extremely tight spacing, employing Acacia
wood barrels, bottling with next to no sulfur, and in general daring to think outside the box, with strikingly
consistent and delicious, infectiously juicy, mineralinflected, nuanced results. Tempe also seems to keep time
differently from his peers: the 2005s I tasted on the occasion of my December visit were expected to be released late
this year, and both the 2007s and (save for the basic AOC Minervois) 2006s were assembled and resting in tank (a
fact I won't mention again to save space). The potential for extended elevage in this place is exceptional, opines
Tempe, but that said, he tends to get the wines out of barrel after 69 months and into tank.
D
30 Jun 2009
91/100
2007
UWS: 90/100
Tempe's basic 2007 Minervois Carignan, Grenache, and Syrah needed a good shaking to throw off some
reduction, but then revealed vivid blackberry and blueberry tinged with marjoram and juniper berry, and a
correspondingly palatestaining, pungent, tingling brightness. A saline, crustacean savor along with the wine's
sheer brightness of fruit reminds me of the 2004 (which I retasted alongside) and I predict that in a proper cellar
this will be worth following for 57 years even though that is the intent of this basic cuvee. Biodynamic Alsace
vigneron Marc Tempe (partnered with film producer and wine enthusiast Reinhard Brundig) spent two years
exploring Mediterranean vineyards from Bandol to Banyuls before discovering these nearly 70 acres of well
ventilated, clayrich, high hillsides (only a small portion of them planted) near La Liviniere. Tempe has a vision of
Minervois no less different from that of his neighbors than is his vision of Riesling, Pinot Gris, or Auxerrois. He is
interplanting Syrah and Grenache in extremely tight spacing, employing Acacia wood barrels, bottling with next to
no sulfur, and in general daring to think outside the box, with strikingly consistent and delicious, infectiously juicy,
mineralinflected, nuanced results. Tempe also seems to keep time differently from his peers: the 2005s I tasted on
the occasion of my December visit were expected to be released late this year, and both the 2007s and (save for the
basic AOC Minervois) 2006s were assembled and resting in tank (a fact I won't mention again to save space). The
potential for extended elevage in this place is exceptional, opines Tempe, but that said, he tends to get the wines out
of barrel after 69 months and into tank.
D
30 Jun 2009
9091/100
2008
UWS: 91/100
The basic Courbissac 2008 Minervois is twothirds Carignan, with the rest divided among Cinsault, Grenache, and
Syrah, and was vinified largely in tank with just a small supplement of older barriques. It leads with ripe blackberry
and cassis on the nose that are then setoff on a polished, caressing, yet vibrant palate by a sense of wet stone and
Burgundylike aura of forest floor. Burley tobacco, iodine, peat, and salt add interest, invigoration, and saliva
inducing appeal to a generously juicy finish. I would plan on relishing it over the next 34 years. Marc Tempe for
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285
details about whose Minervois project consult
my by
report
in issue 183 had at the time of my April visit not
completely assembled his 2009s and considered certain of those lots along with his 2008 Orphee were at an
UWS: 91/100
Red Wines France
The basic Courbissac 2008 Minervois is twothirds Carignan, with the rest divided among Cinsault, Grenache, and
Syrah, and was vinified largely in tank with just a small supplement of older barriques. It leads with ripe blackberry
and cassis on the nose that are then setoff on a polished, caressing, yet vibrant palate by a sense of wet stone and
Burgundylike aura of forest floor. Burley tobacco, iodine, peat, and salt add interest, invigoration, and saliva
inducing appeal to a generously juicy finish. I would plan on relishing it over the next 34 years. Marc Tempe for
details about whose Minervois project consult my report in issue 183 had at the time of my April visit not
completely assembled his 2009s and considered certain of those lots along with his 2008 Orphee were at an
awkward stage where he preferred not to let me taste them. Amazingly, the 2007 Orphee was not bottled until mid
2010. During such long elevage, Tempe observes, a point can be reached where it seems the fruit is beginning to dry
out, but he contends that once such a wine is blended, aerated, and bottled, it bounces back and rediscovers its true
personality. I can't contradict that on the basis of my experience with his 2007s, which I am delighted to report all
livedup in bottle to my enthusiastic prebottling assessments; indeed, I scored each of them at the upper range of the
projections I published in issue 183. I'm harvesting earlier these days, notes Tempe, to preserve freshness. Based
on what I was able to taste, this has not come at the expense of ripe flavors of course, with yields as low as the six
hectoliters per hectare that Tempe reports for his young Syrah vines, I suppose ripeness should go without saying.
Tempe says that this raw materials from 2009 and 2010 all run between 13.514.75% alcohol.
D
30 Jun 2011
Domaine Hecht & Bannier | Coteaux du Languedoc - Saint Chinian
91/100
2010
UWS: 90/100
Wellstructured, with an intense core of red currant, plum and dark cherry flavors that are very pure and minerally
tasting. Mocha, smoke and tar fill the powerful finish. Drink now through 2018. KM
D
Domaine Hecht & Bannier | Coteaux du Languedoc - Saint Chinian
2011
UWS: 90/100
There's a sense of richness to the wellspiced flavors of ripe cherry and dried blueberry. Chocolate mousse notes
linger on the minerally finish, alongside hints of black olive. Drink now through 2017. KM
15 Jun 2014
89/100
More fresh, lively and complex, yet without as much depth or richness, the 2011 Saint Chinian is another beautiful
wine from this producer. Ripe cherries, blackberry, sappy flowers and garriguelike aromas and flavors define the
bouquet here, and it's mediumbodied, fresh and lithe on the palate, with juicy acidity and a clean finish. It will drink
nicely for 45 years. This was a superb lineup from Gregory Hecht and Francois Bannier. The wines show
distinctive personalities as well as solid underlying structures. They also represent excellent values.
D
30 Apr 2014
Domaine Leon Barral | Faugeres Cuvee Tradition
91/100
2005
UWS: 90/100
Pale. Smells really quite developed treacle toffee. Rather nice nose and fruit though very mineral tough finish.
Maturing a bit fast for the tannin?
10 Jul 2009
16/20
The Barral 2005 Faugeres displays a ravishing aroma of strawberry, cherry, black raspberry, and blood orange,
seasoned with tangerine zest, cardamom, licorice, and buddleia in a way that put me in mind of some great Chenin
or Riesling. Amazingly pure, elegant, and buoyant; intensely concentrated in flavor, although by Barral standards,
light in color; this exhibits a mouthfilling refreshment and exuberant sense of energy that remind me of the best
Pinot Noir, and that none of the richer, deeper cuvees here can beat, or indeed even attempt to imitate. A subtle
sense of clean underlying meatiness and persistent floral perfume inform the lipsmacking, luscious finish of a wine
that should remain a delight for at least 45 years. I suppose that saying this represents remarkable value is to point
out the obvious, as well as to rub salt in a wound for those of us who lack a means of getting hold of some. Didier
Barral is a tireless experimenter who forcefully espouses highly original variations on biodynamics and ideals of
integrated farming and viticultural sustainability, among the most conspicuous of which is his deployment of Jersey
cattle and horses as both source of fertilizer and sometime crew in managing grassy vineyards that he proudly
describes as looking like the Pampas. (Except that some of these breezy, forestrimmed sites are rather steep to
support that analogy!). Barral is keenly absorbed in details of preserving plant and insect diversity in his soils as
well as in perfecting traditional, openarmed
goblet
Published
by (headpruned)
90pluswines.com training of all his vines, and his idealism
286
extends to keeping onethird of his vineyard land fallow on a tenyear rotation. Barral grows Syrah on his highest
seasoned with tangerine zest, cardamom, licorice, and buddleia in a way that put me in mind of some great Chenin
or Riesling. Amazingly pure, elegant, and buoyant; intensely concentrated in flavor, although by Barral standards,
light in color; this exhibits a mouthfilling refreshment and exuberant sense of energy that remind me of the best
Pinot Noir, and that none of the richer, deeper cuvees here can beat, or indeed even attempt to imitate. A subtle
sense of clean underlying meatiness and persistent floral perfume inform the lipsmacking, luscious finish of a wine
that should remain a delight for at least 45 years. I suppose that saying this represents remarkable value is to point
out the obvious, as well as to rub salt in a wound for those of us who lack a means of getting hold of some. Didier
Barral is a tireless experimenter who forcefully espouses highly original variations on biodynamics and ideals of
integrated farming and viticultural sustainability, among the most conspicuous of which is his deployment of Jersey
cattle and horses as both source of fertilizer and sometime crew in managing grassy vineyards that he proudly
describes as looking like the Pampas. (Except that some of these breezy, forestrimmed sites are rather steep to
support that analogy!). Barral is keenly absorbed in details of preserving plant and insect diversity in his soils as
well as in perfecting traditional, openarmed goblet (headpruned) training of all his vines, and his idealism
extends to keeping onethird of his vineyard land fallow on a tenyear rotation. Barral grows Syrah on his highest
and northeastfacing sites to preserve freshness and because Syrah is like Chardonnay it doesnt like the sun,
whereas his southern exposures permit Mourvedre to ripen already by the end of September. With one exception,
even Barral's 2006 raw materials consistently impressive and almost confectionary in ripeness were not yet
assembled when I visited him last December, so tasting notes on approximations to the eventual wines are
impossible. Some of his 2007 lots had not even finished their primary fermentation at that point, yet were capable of
displaying almost oceanic depths of minerality and more animal spirits than the hoofed heard wandering the estate's
vine rows. Wouldbe clients would be wise to make plans or supplications to the deities of allocation now, in hopes
of getting a small share of Barral's amazing wines. Ripeness here, incidentally, encompasses not only intense
sweetness of fruit, but alcohol of 15% and up.
Red Wines France
30 Jun 2009
D
Domaine Leon Barral | Faugeres Cuvee Tradition
93/100
01 Jan 2009
15/20
2006
UWS: 92/100
From tank, the basic Barral 2006 Faugeres overwhelmingly Grenache and Carignan, never destemmed, and
raised in tank offers an essence of chocolatecovered cherries dusted with grated nutmeg and tonka bean. This
displays the deep, lowtoned richness and plush texture common to all of Barral's wines, no doubt influenced in part
by his exceedingly sparing use of sulfur. Exceptionally sweet fruit with vanilla, baking spices, and cocoa powder
lend a finishing cast so rich and exotic that one is tempted to ask what sort of toasting Barral orders for his cement.
Expect this to perform stunningly for at least a half dozen years. Didier Barral is a tireless experimenter who
forcefully espouses highly original variations on biodynamics and ideals of integrated farming and viticultural
sustainability, among the most conspicuous of which is his deployment of Jersey cattle and horses as both source of
fertilizer and sometime crew in managing grassy vineyards that he proudly describes as looking like the Pampas.
(Except that some of these breezy, forestrimmed sites are rather steep to support that analogy!). Barral is keenly
absorbed in details of preserving plant and insect diversity in his soils as well as in perfecting traditional, open
armed goblet (headpruned) training of all his vines, and his idealism extends to keeping onethird of his vineyard
land fallow on a tenyear rotation. Barral grows Syrah on his highest and northeastfacing sites to preserve
freshness and because Syrah is like Chardonnay it doesnt like the sun, whereas his southern exposures permit
Mourvedre to ripen already by the end of September. With one exception, even Barral's 2006 raw materials
consistently impressive and almost confectionary in ripeness were not yet assembled when I visited him last
December, so tasting notes on approximations to the eventual wines are impossible. Some of his 2007 lots had not
even finished their primary fermentation at that point, yet were capable of displaying almost oceanic depths of
minerality and more animal spirits than the hoofed heard wandering the estate's vine rows. Wouldbe clients would
be wise to make plans or supplications to the deities of allocation now, in hopes of getting a small share of Barral's
amazing wines. Ripeness here, incidentally, encompasses not only intense sweetness of fruit, but alcohol of 15%
and up.
D
30 Jun 2009
Domaine les Tourelles | Coteaux du Languedoc
9293/100
1995
UWS: 90/100
Don't complain about availability as 1,000 cases of this gorgeous concoction of 50% Grenache and 50% Syrah have
been imported to the United States. The wine possesses an opaque purple color and a knockout nose of kirsch and
cassis that is followed by explosive ripeness, medium to full body, considerable richness, and an old vinelike
intensity. Its taste is reminiscent of a topclass Chateauneuf du Pape! An amazing value. A Patrick Lesec Selection
(Paris fax # 011 33 1 42843822), various American importers
D
Domaine l'Ostal Cazes | Minervois Estibals
30 Jun 1997
90/100
2008
287
Red Wines France
UWS: 95/100
Decanter © (DC)
D
Domaine l'Ostal Cazes | Minervois Estibals
11 Jan 2012
4/5
2011
UWS: 90/100
A juicy style, with crushed red fruit and buoyant red berry flavors, fresh and wellspiced. Crisp acidity lifts the
mineralfilled finish. Drink now through 2017. KM
15 Jun 2014
89/100
Starting out, the 2011 Minervois Estibals is a lively, elegant effort that offers ample cherry, spice and underbrush
like qualities to go with a mediumbodied, supple and beautifully textured feel on the palate. Made from a blend of
roughly 40% Syrah, 35% Carignan and the balance Grenache and Mourvedre, it won't make old bones but is a
delicious effort to drink over the coming couple of years. This upandcoming estate was renovated in 2002 by Jean
Michel Cazes (of Chateau LynchBages in Bordeaux). This is the first time I've been able to taste their wines, and
both of the 2011s are noteworthy.
D
30 Apr 2014
Domaine Pierre Clavel | Coteaux du Languedoc Les Garrigues
90/100
2006
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
28 Apr 2011
3/5
Pungently scented with marjoram, lavender, and rosemary just as its name suggests, the 2006 Coteaux du
Languedoc Les Garrigues saturates the palate with viscous baked cherry and purple plum, evincing no sense of heat
and displaying admirable clarity and lift despite its extreme ripeness of flavor and bakedin sense of richness.
Suggestions of licorice and roasted meats follow the fruit into a satisfyingly caressing and long finish. Twenty years
after founding his domaine, Pierre Clavel remains one of the Languedoc's most inspired and inspiring vintners.
What's more, his wines offer outstanding value. Best known for those from the cobbled subappellation of La
Mejanelle along the coast just east of Montpellier, Clavel also has major vineyard holdings in the deep chalkclay
terroir of SaintChristol, and a small vineyard area around his winery in Assas officially part of the Gres de
Montpellier subappellation came into production in 2006. A Charles Neal Selection, Daly City, CA tel. (415) 225
5144
D
Domaine Yannick Pelletier | Coteaux du Languedoc - Saint Chinian
l'Engoulevent
30 Jun 2009
89/100
2004
UWS: 90/100
The 2004 SaintChinian l'Engoulevent offers aromas of stewed rhubarb and cherries, with a schistetypical smoky,
saline aura. Sweet fruit and refreshing acidity on the palate are underlain by rich hints of coffee, mocha, and toasted
nuts and lead to an impressively long finish that reveals density and depth without tannic roughness. Yannick
Pelletier is meticulouslyfarming 21 mostly schistic acres at the northern edge of SaintChinian, and the results were
some of the revelations of my recent tastings: as yet littleknown wines that are at the apex of their appellation.
Imported by Handpicked Selections, Warrenton, VA; tel. (540) 3479400
D
Grande Cassagne | Costieres de Nimes
31 Oct 2007
90/100
1996
UWS: 90/100
Wow! This 95% Syrah/5% Mourvedre blend smells more like a top 1994 vintage port than a dry red table wine.
100% tankfermented and aged, this blockbuster wine offers an ostentatious display of jammy cassis fruit intermixed
with pepper and spice. Rich, thick, and fullbodied, with extraordinary purity, this is an amazingly richly fruity wine
Published
by 90pluswines.com
with surprising character. It is so concentrated
and wellbalanced
that I suspect it will last for 57 years, but I would
288
still opt for drinking over the next 34 years. A superb value.
Red Wines France
UWS: 90/100
Wow! This 95% Syrah/5% Mourvedre blend smells more like a top 1994 vintage port than a dry red table wine.
100% tankfermented and aged, this blockbuster wine offers an ostentatious display of jammy cassis fruit intermixed
with pepper and spice. Rich, thick, and fullbodied, with extraordinary purity, this is an amazingly richly fruity wine
with surprising character. It is so concentrated and wellbalanced that I suspect it will last for 57 years, but I would
still opt for drinking over the next 34 years. A superb value.
Gr
30 Jun 1997
Grande Cassagne | Costieres de Nimes
90/100
1998
UWS: 91/100
The 1998 Syrah (2,000 cases produced of 70% Syrah and 30% Mourvedre) is an unbelievably rich wine. Normally
one expects to pay $20$30 a bottle for quality such as this. I can think of many New World Syrahs that cost $30 a
bottle that cannot compete with this wine qualitatively. Bottled unfiltered, it boasts a dense ruby/purple color, as
well as a superb nose of cassis and faint licorice in the background. No oak has been employed, so the consumer
gets an explosively fruity, heady wine bursting with glycerin, alcohol, fruit, and extract. None of the Grande
Cassagne wines reveal any hard edges, making them totally alluring. The Syrah should drink well for 34 years, but
I would not be surprised if this wine were in reasonably good shape at age 7 or 8. At these prices, these outstanding
wines should be purchased by the trunk full.
Gr
30 Jun 1999
Laurent Miquel | St.-Chinian
91/100
2007
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
La
Les (Michel Gassier) Piliers | Costieres de Nimes Syrah Les Piliers
28 Apr 2011
3/5
2004
UWS: 90/100
Rock solid, with blackberry, fig, cocoa, violet and mineral notes that are rich, yet pure and vibrant. Dark, fruitfilled
finish shows solid length too. Drink now through 2008. 1,000 cases made. JM
Le
Mas Carlot | Costieres de Nimes Les Enfants Terribles
31 Oct 2007
90/100
2009
UWS: 90/100
The 2009 Costieres de Nimes Les Enfants Terribles is superb. Its dense ruby/purple color is accompanied by notes of
blackberries, blueberries, camphor, licorice and sauteed mushrooms. The wine exhibits good density and richness as
well as a heady finish. It should drink nicely for 56 years. This is one of the best run estates in Costieres de Nimes.
Owned by the husband and wife team of Nathalie BlancMares and Cyril Mares, with the charming, passionate
Nathalie running Mas Carlot and Cyril in charge of the neighboring estate of Mas des Bressades (another high
quality/ value producer).
M
Mas Champart | Coteaux du Languedoc - Saint Chinian Causse de Bousquet
31 Oct 2010
90/100
2008
UWS: 90/100
Featuring a for this cuvee familiar blend of around twothirds Syrah, one quarter Mourvedre and the rest Grenache,
the Champart 2008 SaintChinian Causse de Bousquet offers a multiregistered if understated performance of
richness allied to vivacity and levity. Dark cherry and dark chocolate are accented with rosemary and cherry pit
piquancy, whilst bittersweet floral notes waft all the way through to the wine's long, luscious, buoyant finish. This
outstanding value ought to be well worth following for at least half a dozen years. Isabelle Champart for more
about whose work consult my issue 183 report reports that she backed way off on extraction in order to insure that
her 2009 reds preserved pure fruit and some sense of levity, and her approach clearly succeeded. An early look at
components of 2010 here that had already undergone
was also encouraging. This is a vintage which Champart
Published bymalo
90pluswines.com
289
reports definitely benefitted from its bit of late rain after a long period during which fruit maturation had plateaued,
UWS: 90/100
Featuring a for this cuvee familiar blend of around twothirds Syrah, one quarter Mourvedre and the rest Grenache,
the Champart 2008 SaintChinian Causse de Bousquet offers a multiregistered if understated performance of
richness allied to vivacity and levity. Dark cherry and dark chocolate are accented with rosemary and cherry pit
piquancy, whilst bittersweet floral notes waft all the way through to the wine's long, luscious, buoyant finish. This
outstanding value ought to be well worth following for at least half a dozen years. Isabelle Champart for more
about whose work consult my issue 183 report reports that she backed way off on extraction in order to insure that
her 2009 reds preserved pure fruit and some sense of levity, and her approach clearly succeeded. An early look at
components of 2010 here that had already undergone malo was also encouraging. This is a vintage which Champart
reports definitely benefitted from its bit of late rain after a long period during which fruit maturation had plateaued,
and her yields were significantly higher than in 2009. Meanwhile, the 2008s currently on offer are ravishing.
Red Wines France
91/100
30 Jun 2011
Isabelle et Matthieu Champart sont installés depuis 1976 dans ce magnifique endroit très pierreux de la zone argilo
calcaire. Leur 2008 au nez d'humus, de truffe et de cassis se révèle puissant en bouche. La vanille, la violette et la
garrigue imprègnent une chair aux tanins soyeux, avant une finale épicée, voire même réglissée. Un vin subtil et
complexe à attendre un an ou deux et à ouvrir sur une viande rouge.
M
Mas Champart | Coteaux du Languedoc - Saint Chinian Causse de Bousquet
01 Jan 2011
01 Jan 2010
1/3
17/20
2009
UWS: 90/100
Tasted as a preassemblage, the Mas Champart 2009 SaintChinian Causse de Bousquet as always for this cuvee
features Syrah (here more than 70%) with small amounts of Grenache and Mourvedre, mostly from the estate's
upper plateau vineyards, and vinified in tank with a small portion from barrel. Morello cherry, kirsch, almond
extract, and fennel pollen in the nose set the tone for a vivaciously freshfruited but also highly esterous palate
performance, with notes of black pepper and chalk adding counterpoint to a lusciouslylong finish. This ought to
perform well for at least 34 years. Isabelle Champart for more about whose work consult my issue 183 report
reports that she backed way off on extraction in order to insure that her 2009 reds preserved pure fruit and some
sense of levity, and her approach clearly succeeded. An early look at components of 2010 here that had already
undergone malo was also encouraging. This is a vintage which Champart reports definitely benefitted from its bit of
late rain after a long period during which fruit maturation had plateaued, and her yields were significantly higher
than in 2009. Meanwhile, the 2008s currently on offer are ravishing.
M
30 Jun 2011
Mas des Chimeres | Coteaux du Languedoc Terrasse du Larzac
8990/100
2005
UWS: 90/100
01 Jan 2008
15,5/20
Suave, supple and rich, with a core of pure red berry, mineral and plum flavors that turn creamy and intense. The
lush finish shows spice, with hints of marzipan. Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre and Cinsault. Drink now through 2011.
1,000 cases made. KM
Wine Spectator © (WS), Kim Marcus 31 Aug 2007 90/100
M
2006
UWS: 91/100
Guilhem Darde's Syrahdominated 2006 Coteaux du Languedoc Terrasses du Larzac is again blended with a little
Grenache, Cinsault, and Mourvedre only the vintage and the official appellation are new. The cuvee smells
strongly and strikingly of dried and distilled cherries, nutmeg, chocolate, and resinous herbs. It offers the palate a
generous juiciness and intensity of black fruits; resinous herbs; coffee and chocolate; and saline, chalky, iodinelike
mineral flavors that go well beyond last year's rendition. What a terrific combination of ripeness and textural
richness with energy and exuberance this longfinishing wine displays, without betraying its alcohol or indulging in
superficial sweetness! Plan to lay away enough to follow this beautiful chimera for at least half a dozen fascinating
years of evolution in bottle.
290
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M
2008
UWS: 91/100
While the Carignan and Mourvedre are often harvested too late to permit this, in the case Darde's 2008 Coteaux du
Languedoc Terrasses du Larzac they were fermented along with his Cinsault, Grenache, and Syrah, each cepage in
approximately equal volume. Blackberry, cassis, and beet root are saturated with denselypacked but fine tannins
and accented by peat, humus, crushed stone, dark chocolate and espresso. The overall impression is if anything even
more sinister than in the corresponding 2009s, but there is vibrancy in the finish here leading to a sense of
invigoration as well as grip. This should be worth following for at least another half dozen years. Selfstyled
paysan vigneron Guilhem Darde farms close to 50 acres whose fruits he began estatebottling in 1993 just west
of Lac du Salagou at the southwestern edge of the Terrasses du Larzac. (The Pinot Noir and mixed white vineyards
of Domaine du Clovallon and Domaine La Garance profiled most recently in issue 195's part one of this report
are less than ten mountainous miles to the west, along the river Orb; while appellation Faugeres begins ten miles to
the southwest.) The principle soils here come from basalt and Permian sandstone mixed with ironrich clay. Darde
reports that 90% of the time malolactic transformation of his wines occurs during their alcoholic fermentation,
although he experienced erratic, stopandgo fermentations (along with reduced volume) in 2009. The material in
barrel from 2010 for Darde's A.O.C. cuvees including effusively, unusually floral Grenache as well as Syrah, and
ripe yet only modestlyalcoholic Mourvedre of remarkable clarity and lift was highly promising. (I tasted also a
rose and several Merlot and Cabernetbased cuvees from this estate which left me unimpressed.)
M
2009
UWS: 90/100
The Mas de Chimeres 2009 Coteaux du Languedoc Terrasses du Larzac incorporating all five of the estate's
principle black grapes and tasted (for this composite note) from two lots that may or may not in fact be married
offers generous aromas and juicy abundance of lightlycooked blackberry and cassis accompanied by lowtoned,
intriguingly earthy suggestions of beet root, chard, humus, and peat. A saturation of fine tannin enhances the dense,
metaphorically dark, brooding impression without precluding a sense of polish. This grips the palate impressively.
The eventual blend(s) which, even if there is just one, will be subject to two or three different bottlings should
likely be worth savoring and pondering for 46 years thereafter. Selfstyled paysan vigneron Guilhem Darde
farms close to 50 acres whose fruits he began estatebottling in 1993 just west of Lac du Salagou at the
southwestern edge of the Terrasses du Larzac. (The Pinot Noir and mixed white vineyards of Domaine du Clovallon
and Domaine La Garance profiled most recently in issue 195's part one of this report are less than ten
mountainous miles to the west, along the river Orb; while appellation Faugeres begins ten miles to the southwest.)
The principle soils here come from basalt and Permian sandstone mixed with ironrich clay. Darde reports that 90%
of the time malolactic transformation of his wines occurs during their alcoholic fermentation, although he
experienced erratic, stopandgo fermentations (along with reduced volume) in 2009. The material in barrel from
2010 for Darde's A.O.C. cuvees including effusively, unusually floral Grenache as well as Syrah, and ripe yet only
modestlyalcoholic Mourvedre of remarkable clarity and lift was highly promising. (I tasted also a rose and several
Merlot and Cabernetbased cuvees from this estate which left me unimpressed.)
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Domaine Jean Louis Tribouley | Languedoc Roussillon Les Bacs Vieilles
Vignes
2009
UWS: 90/100
Tribouley's 2009 Les Bacs Vieilles Vignes from tank, in which this cuvee is entirely raised required a good
shaking to dissipate reduction. The nose opened up to a scrubby and resinous amalgam of juniper, marjoram, and
rosemary, along with concentrated black fruits and hints of tar. This firm but expansive cuvee (as usual, of Grenache
with ca. 2530% Carignan) displays practically adhesive finishing character, sticky but not in the sense of
sweetness. Fine tannins add to the impression of formidable density in a wine that almost seems to be struggling to
come to terms with its sheer concentration. I don't find the juiciness let alone the energy displayed by the
corresponding Orchis (from higher elevation, in the socalled Coume du Roi). Although bottling was due to take
place as usual without filtration, Tribouley had elected to postpone it at least through spring, so that the wine might
passively shed some of its reduction to become more expressive. This ought to, in any case, be worth following from
bottle for at least 68 years. Tribouley for more about whom and about whose vineyards, consult my report in
issue 183 compares 2009 with 2007, noting that in both instances the trick was to preserve sufficient sense of
freshness and vivacity to compensate for the effects of heat and some degree of desiccation. I would have to give up
farming if every year were like 2009, however, he notes, on account of pitifully low yields even by his already
draconian standards. In 2008, acidity was higher but only marginally, and Tribouley relates that portions of the
Coume du Roi had to be picked already on September 10 that year because they had reached 17% potential alcohol.
While finished alcohol levels here continue to typically center around 15.5% alcohol, you would equally typically
never be able to guess this on the basis of taste.
D
30 Jun 2011
Mas Conscience | Languedoc Roussillon Le Cas
9091+/100
2007
UWS: 90/100
The Mas Conscience 2007 Le Cas 100% Carignan from quartziterich cobbles, raised in concrete vats should
come as a revelation to any who doubt the potential of a grape too often subjected to disrespect (hence the play on
the words for bad conscience to which the name of this cuvee alludes.) A profusion of ripe blue and blackberries
pointing to the inherent beauty of truly ripe Carignan is accented with ginger spice and pungent herbs. Vidal who
tries to get by with as little sulfur at bottling as possible says he nonetheless aims to put this cuvee into bottle
slightly reduced, and in that he succeeded, so this 2007 needs time in the air (or at least, did late last year) to
express itself. For now, this is neither texturally richer than the 2006, nor as elegant, but it probably will be with
time. Dark suggestions of toasted nuts and peat lend an aura of mystery, while the combination of ginger, tart berry
skin, and saline minerality in the finish is enormously invigorating. My guess (absent an extended track record) is
that this should merit 57 years' cellaring. Begun in 2003, the roughly 30 acre, biodynamicallyfarmed estate of
Laurent and Genevieve Vidal benefits from some of the sweetest spots in the Terraces du Larzac, featuring both
cobbles and chalk shards in St.JeandeFos, Aniane and Puechabon. The facilities here appear to have been
designed with immense forethought ... other than to the sparing of expenses! Imported by Eric Solomon Selections,
Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 3581565
30 Jun 2009
90/100
292
Red Wines France
Loire
M
Chateau de la (Germain-Saincrit) Roulerie | Anjou
2005
UWS: 90/100
C
28 Apr 2011
Domaine Pierre & Catherine Breton | Bourgueil Franc de Pied
90/100
2007
UWS: 90/100
This wine has nice, bright fruit on the nose, with some cherry or cherrystone notes. The palate shows dry, clean and
gentle substance with a nice tannic backbone, appropriate for a lighter wine and nicely composed. A good fresh
style, very easy to drink now.
Solid, with muscular black cherry and black currant fruit surrounding a core of dark live, maduro tobacco and
mulled spice notes. The long, ironfilled finish has a nice burly edge to it. Excellent grip for the vintage. Drink now
through 2012. 50 cases imported. JM
Rubyred. Fresh raspberry and cherry aromas are complemented by mineral and floral qualities and pick up
assertive smoky herbacity with air. Nervy, wellfocused and a touch bitter, offering tangy red berry and cherry skin
flavors and some dusty tannins. The finish is nicely brisk and pure, with a peppery note adding cut to the red fruit
and herb qualities.
From old vines on their own rootstock (as its name indicates), the Bretons' 2007 Bourgueil Franc de Pied smells of
blackberries, beet root, iodine, and pungent herbs. With a combination of velvety texture and brightness that one
won't encounter outside of Burgundy or the Loire, it refreshes the palate while gracing its fruit with intriguing
saline, smoky, herbal, and toasted nut nuances. Once again, this cuvee is a great, lipsmacking success that can be
enjoyed over the next 23 years.
D
Domaine Alliet | Chinon Vieilles Vignes
2008
UWS: 90/100
Ces vieilles vignes affichent une éclatante jeunesse, dans un style fruits noirs et épices. La finale onctueuse montre
un jus superbe avec une touche d'eucalyptus.
28 Apr 2011
17/20
The Alliet 2008 Chinon Vieilles Vignes assembled, as usual, from various sand and gravel parcels, and bottled last
April displays an impressive combination of substantiality with juicy refreshment, tart blackberry, mulberry and
tomato seasoned with herbs and exuding just a hint of asparagus. Salty and bright, with brash berry and discreet
vegetal elements in its finish, I would plan to drink this over the coming year while it is still exuberant in its modestly
ripe way. Philippe Alliet thinks his 2009s will surpass his 2005s in elegance, and comparing the 2005s today I
hazard the guess that the fruit of his 2009s will stay fresh longer as well. 2009 will be the first commercializeable
vintage here in white wine, but that opulent, 14.6% alcohol wine while it nevertheless displayed luscious potential
had not even finished its alcoholic fermentation when I visited in late June! Interestingly Alliet opined that 2008 was
in contrast with 2007 uniform enough in ripeness that no significant triage was required. But I found precisely the
more seamless ripeness of his top 2007s their advantage over 2008. A Daniel Johnnes Selection
D
Domaine Bernard Baudry | Chinon Clos Guillot
2005
293
Red Wines France
UWS: 93/100
A deep, dark hue. Attractive nose, plenty of primary fruit, backed up with mineral, stony nuances and a little nuance
of tobacco. Full, tannic, finely structured wine from a limestone terroir. There is plenty of potential here. Lovely.
Très fruits noirs, ce vin emplit la bouche avec sensualité.
28 Apr 2011
16,5/20
Ripe and lush, with layers of boysenberry, fig and currant fruit, all harnessed by a great buried minerality and
lingering briar, tobacco and sweet tapenade notes. Has great length and balance. Drink now through 2012. 100
cases imported. JM
93/100
30 Apr 2008
Dark and dense, this takes its time to reveal its concentrated depth of chewy black fruit. Although dominated by its
structure right now, the wine's components fit together seamlessly, its fruit, acidity and tannin all in harmonious
balance, and the manner in which the minerality thoroughly saturates the dark fruit flavors is striking.
93/100
01 Apr 2008
Baudry's 2005 Chinon Clos Guillot from relatively young vines in deep, chalky soil offers a bouquet of buddleia
with cassis, maraschino, and brown spices. Filling the mouth with generous fruit and real depth and density of
chalky mineral character, black fruits and flowers, it finishes with panache, liveliness and lift that belie its 14.5%
alcohol.
One of Baudry's top wines, Le Clos Guillot is made from ungrafted vines, which seems to give an extra intensity to
the fruit, as well as power to the tannins. The fruit and the tannins are dense, solid, intense and complex. This is a
ripe, spice and red fruitflavored wine, certainly a wine for aging—up to 10 years, maybe more.
D
93/100
01 Apr 2007
01 Jan 2007
Domaine Bernard Baudry | Chinon Clos Guillot
18,5/20
2008
UWS: 90/100
Le nez est complexe, frais et intense. La bouche fraîche amènera à le boire sans délai alors qu'il est de garde.
28 Apr 2011
16/20
The ripe, juicy fruit saturates the palate, with herbal notes of sage and menthol lending complexity to the red cherry
and berry flavors. It needs time to resolve its firm tannins, but feels exceptionally well balanced and complete,
supported by fine acidity.
01 Apr 2011
92/100
Notes of game and leather join mulberry on the nose of the Baudry 2008 Chinon Clos Guillot, and on a firm but at
once substantial and refreshing palate, notes of artichoke and green tea emerge. Saliva inducing saline savor,
pungent herbal impingement, and persistent berry skin brightness win me over here in a finish that projects real
energy. But this won't be ripe enough for all comers, and should in any event be paired over the next couple of years
with dishes where the herbal, vegetal, and mineral elements are advantageous. It certainly contrasts with the
corresponding, rather somber Grezeaux bottling. For notes on Bernard and Matthieu Baudry's outstanding latest
whites, consult my parallel report on Central Loire Chenin. They took their time waiting for what they deemed the
optimum moment for picking in 2009 even if any moment would have been outstanding by longterm standards!
but then brought in their entire crop in six days.
Vivid ruby. Dark berries, cherry, violet and dusty cocoa powder on the nose. Concentrated and tactile, with very
good depth and noteworthy definition and lift to the black cherry and cassis flavors. Openknit and broad on the
long, palatesaturating finish. The tannins are finegrained and not at all dry or hard. Great fruit and clarity here,
as well as more rich, black fruits than one usually finds in Loire cabernet franc.
01 Jan 2010
16/20
294
whites, consult my parallel report on Central Loire Chenin. They took their time waiting for what they deemed the
optimum moment for picking in 2009 even if any moment would have been outstanding by longterm standards!
but then brought in their entire crop in six days.
Vivid ruby. Dark berries, cherry, violet and dusty cocoa powder on the nose. Concentrated and tactile, with very
good depth and noteworthy definition and lift to the black cherry and cassis flavors. Openknit and broad on the
long, palatesaturating finish. The tannins are finegrained and not at all dry or hard. Great fruit and clarity here,
as well as more rich, black fruits than one usually finds in Loire cabernet franc.
Red Wines France
D
Domaine Bernard Baudry | Chinon La Croix Boissee
01 Jan 2010
16/20
2003
UWS: 93/100
This has a deep colour still. It still has that rich, creamy, almost fortified nose that I recall from my last tasting.
There is also that superripe blueberry character that marks the vintage in so many regions of Europe. Despite this it
has an appealing structure on the palate, and some good acidity too. Nice, rounded style with the substance to go for
years in the cellar.
Largescaled Chinon, with plenty of flashy toast and mocha, but an impressive core of blackberry and plum fruit as
well. Minerally spine and racy acidity is buried on the finish, so cellar to let this blossom. Best from 2007 through
2009. 50 cases imported. JM
30 Apr 2006
92/100
Rouge sombre. Bonne intensité. Net. Intensité moyenne. Fruité. Notes de bois, de réglisse. Pareil. Aromatique. Belle
entrée en bouche savoureuse, se développant sur un toucher fin et un superbe goût de fruits mûrs et juteux. Finale
construite. Tanicité enrobée. Persistance longue et très savoureuse. Un must grâce à la suavité de son goût.
Recommandé.
01 Feb 2005
D
15,25/20
01 Jan 2005
18/20
2004
UWS: 90/100
Has a rustic charm, with pine, grilled herb, green olive, pepper and blackberry fruit notes allied to a slightly edgy,
briary frame. Might settle down with some cellaring, but this is for the esoteric crowd. Drink now through 2010. 50
cases imported. JM
Baudry's 2004 Chinon La Croix Boissee displays deep, ripe if not at all superficially sweet black cherry and
cassis, with intriguing musky, floral, and truffly overtones. Juicy and vibrant on the palate although underlain by
firm, fine tannins, and chalky mineral suggestions, this combines over 14% natural alcohol with a level of acidity
you might expect to find in a white wine (or at least, among reds, a Barbera). The structure and minerality are
always so prominent in this site, says, Baudry, that he has to be very careful in his selection of barrels (wherein the
wine spends a full 16 months). This is not only one of the high points of the vintage for Loire Cabernet Franc, but a
wine with fascinating potential, worth following over the next half dozen years and probably beyond.
01 Jan 2006
18/20
Sombre. Intense. Net. Rose. Epices. Poivre. Du goût, de l'énergie, de la corpulence et une touche de suavité le
rendent séducteur. Tanicité un peu ferme derrière, mais il repart sur l'arôme.
D
01 Feb 2005
14,514,75/20
2005
UWS: 94/100
A deep, youthful hue. Rather less open and evocative than the preceding wines. But certainly no less serious. A full,
creamy, deep, extracted and tannic palate. Not particularly charming or aromatic at the moment, but this still has
absolutely fine potential. Mine will be resting in the cellar for a few years before I pop another one.
A very modern style, with a layer of lush mocha and mesquitetinged toast driving the blackberry and currant fruit.
Notes of tobacco and tar fill in on the finish, which shows a hint of buried minerality. A bit showy for the purist
crowd, but wellassembled. Drink now through 2012. 50 cases imported. JM
295
30 Apr 2008
92/100
UWS: 94/100
A deep, youthful hue. Rather less open and evocative than the preceding wines. But certainly no less serious. A full,
creamy, deep, extracted and tannic palate. Not particularly charming or aromatic at the moment, but this still has
absolutely fine potential. Mine will be resting in the cellar for a few years before I pop another one.
Red Wines France
A very modern style, with a layer of lush mocha and mesquitetinged toast driving the blackberry and currant fruit.
Notes of tobacco and tar fill in on the finish, which shows a hint of buried minerality. A bit showy for the purist
crowd, but wellassembled. Drink now through 2012. 50 cases imported. JM
30 Apr 2008
92/100
From a dramatic, high escarpment above Cravant, where the mother chalk is crossed by a waterretentive, vine
feeding seam of clay, Baudry's 2005 Chinon La Croix Boissee smells of purple plum, black cherry jam, and hints of
charred meat and black chocolate. Intensely ripe and palatesaturating, not stinting on the bitter side of black fruits,
and with emerging innermouth florality and rolling low tones of marrow, smoke and chalk, this impressively dense
Chinon should have a decade or more of fascinating development ahead of it. It evinces a faint trace of heat not out
of keeping with its genuinely powerful personality.
D
01 Jan 2007
Domaine Dozon | Chinon Clos du Saut au Loup
18/20
2003
UWS: 90/100
Le terroir de Ligré est recherché des amateurs de chinon faits pour vivre longtemps. Ce 2003 en est un digne
représentant. Sur fond de cassis d'un bout à l'autre de la dégustation, il présente une attaque massive mais fraîche,
vite relayée par une structure tannique fondue, pas trop extériorisée. Un sentiment d'équilibre qui témoigne d'une
extraction parfaitement menée par un vigneron de talent.
D
Domaine Dozon | Chinon Clos du Saut au Loup
01 Jan 2006
2/3
2009
UWS: 90/100
Petit prix et grand plaisir sur ce vin dense, intense, ala mâche généreuse. Il emporte la bouche avec des fruits al'eau
devie, des épices chaleureuses, des notes de rose aussi. Ce vin déménage !
D
26 Jan 2012
Cave de Saumur | Saumur-Champigny Réserve des Vignerons
16/20
2009
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
04 Jan 2012
3/5
Fresh, ripe and racy, showing a nice grippy edge to its black currant and fig notes, with mouthwatering tobacco and
dark olive underneath. Stays driven on the finish. Drink now through 2011. 10,000 cases made. JM
Ca
15 Oct 2010
Chateau De Villeneuve | Saumur - Champigny Vieilles Vignes
90/100
2000
UWS: 90/100
01 Jan 2003
17/20
Une feuille de chêne finement dorée sur l'étiquette rappelle avec subtilité que le vin a connu un élevage de dix mois
en barriques de chêne du Tronçais et des Vosges. Aujourd'hui vêtu d'une robe noire à reflets violets, ce duo de
merlot et de cabernet franc joue les notes de mûre, de cerise et d'épices (poivre, cannelle), avec un contrepoint de
poivron. Charpenté mais charnu, il tire profit de tanins bien présents pour s'étirer longuement sur des flaveurs
fruitées.
01 Jan 2003
2/3
Offering beautiful aromas of almond paste and smoke, this bright, dry, light to mediumbodied, wellbalanced 2000
Saumur is packed with flavor. Hazel nuts, almonds, minerals, and wet wool can be discerned in its expressive
personality. Consume it over the next two years.
eRobertParker.com
Published
by 90pluswines.com ©
(WA), Pierre Rovani 31 Aug 2001 86/100
296
01 Jan 2003
17/20
Une feuille de chêne finement dorée sur l'étiquette rappelle avec subtilité que le vin a connu un élevage de dix mois
en barriques de chêne du Tronçais et des Vosges. Aujourd'hui vêtu d'une robe noire à reflets violets, ce duo de
merlot et de cabernet franc joue les notes de mûre, de cerise et d'épices (poivre, cannelle), avec un contrepoint de
poivron. Charpenté mais charnu, il tire profit de tanins bien présents pour s'étirer longuement sur des flaveurs
fruitées.
Red Wines France
01 Jan 2003
2/3
Offering beautiful aromas of almond paste and smoke, this bright, dry, light to mediumbodied, wellbalanced 2000
Saumur is packed with flavor. Hazel nuts, almonds, minerals, and wet wool can be discerned in its expressive
personality. Consume it over the next two years.
C
Domaine des Roches Neuves (Germain Thierry) | Saumur - Champigny
Terres Chaudes
1995
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
D
Domaine des Roches Neuves (Germain Thierry) | Saumur - Champigny
Terres Chaudes
28 Sep 2011
3/5
2001
UWS: 90/100
Impressive effort for the appellation, with gutsy plum, raspberry, cassis, leather, spice, game and truffle notes.
Dense and muscular, this drinks like one of the big boys from Chinon or Bourgeuil rather than Saumur. Drink now
through 2006. 1,500 cases made. JM
297
Red Wines France
Rhone Valley
D
Chateau De Montfaucon | Côtes du Rhône Baron Louis
2006
UWS: 90/100
Very solid, with a juicy core of blackberry and plum woven with cocoa and pastis hints. The smoky, spicy finish has
nice length. Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, Carignan, Mourvèdre and Counoise. Drink now through 2010. 4,580 cases
made. JM
15 Jun 2009
90/100
Cassis, mûre, violette, le tout finement vanillé, se marient dans le bouquet de ce 2006. La bouche retrouve ces
arômes, agrémentés de notes de cuir et de grillé, et dévoile des tanins de grande qualité. Déjà prêt, ce vin pourra
attendre deux à trois ans pour accompagner une gardiane de taureau.
C
Chateau de Saint Cosme | Cotes du Rhone
01 Jan 2009
2/3
2011
UWS: 90/100
A mouthfilling core of plum sauce and blackberry paste is backed by charcoal and anise on the finish. Solid, direct,
pure and driven. Drink now. JM
C
31 Oct 2012
Domaine Alain Jaume Grand Veneur | Cotes du Rhone Villages
Champauvins
90/100
2003
UWS: 90/100
The outstanding 2003 Cotes du RhoneVillages Les Champauvins is different than the 2004. Gorgeously plump, fat,
even corpulent, with full body and seductive notes of blackberries, pepper, and cherry liqueur intermixed with some
licorice, smoke and earth, it is a sumptuous mouthful of a wine that sells for a song. Drink it over the next 34 years.
For the last 78 years, this has been one of the bestrun estates in Chateauneuf du Pape. Alain Jaume and his two
capable sons, Sebastien and Christophe, continue to propel Domaine Grand Veneur into the upper echelon of
quality. They also offer an impressively wellmade negociant line of wines (under the name Alain Jaume). The
hallmarks of the Grand Veneur wines include their extraordinary purity of flavor and impeccable balance.
Moreover, they have kept prices remarkably fair.
28 Feb 2006
90/100
Grand Veneur, ce nom lui convient bien. Sous son habit rouge sombre violacé, il bénéficie d'un souffle réglissé teinté
de fraise des bois. Le départ de bouche est souple, ample, bien proportionné. Les tanins sont enrobés. La chaleur est
propre au millésime caniculaire. De garde, disons un à deux ans...
D
Domaine d'Andezon | Cotes du Rhone Villages La Granacha Signargues
01 Jan 2006
2/3
2008
UWS: 90/100
The old vine offering of 100% Grenache, the 2008 La Granacha Signargues, is super. Like its sibling, it was made
and bottled without any SO2, a rarity. Furthermore, these vineyards are organically farmed. Sexy black fruit and
floral notes are followed by a deep, fullbodied wine displaying plenty of kirsch, underbrush, and loamy soil notes.
Good purity, a fullbodied texture, deliciously ripe fruit, and a seamless style make for a sensational bargainpriced
wine that should drink well for 23 years. One of safest, most reliable Cotes du Rhone cuvees coming from this
large cooperative south of Avignon, these are both special cuvees selected and bottled unfined and unfiltered for the
American importer.
30 Jun 2009
90/100
298
UWS: 90/100
The old vine offering of 100% Grenache, the 2008 La Granacha Signargues, is super. Like its sibling, it was made
and bottled without any SO2, a rarity. Furthermore, these vineyards are organically farmed. Sexy black fruit and
floral notes are followed by a deep, fullbodied wine displaying plenty of kirsch, underbrush, and loamy soil notes.
Good purity, a fullbodied texture, deliciously ripe fruit, and a seamless style make for a sensational bargainpriced
wine that should drink well for 23 years. One of safest, most reliable Cotes du Rhone cuvees coming from this
large cooperative south of Avignon, these are both special cuvees selected and bottled unfined and unfiltered for the
American importer.
Red Wines France
D
30 Jun 2009
Domaine d'Andezon | Cotes du Rhone Villages La Granacha Signargues
90/100
2010
UWS: 90/100
IWine Review © (IWR) 01 Nov 2013 90/100
D
Domaine De Grangeneuve | Coteaux du Tricastin Cuvée Vieilles Vignes
2003
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
D
Domaine de la Janasse | Cotes du Rhone
28 Apr 2011
3/5
2010
UWS: 92/100
This is a custom cuvee made for the U.S. market by Eric Solomon from the dynamic, conscientious, remarkably
consistent producer of Chateauneuf du Pape and Cotes du Rhone, Christophe Sabon. This Cotes du Rhone Cuvee
Reserve, a blend of 50% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% Carignan, 10% Mourvedre and 10% Cinsault aged 12 months
in foudre, is gorgeous. Kirsch liqueur dominates the aromatics and flavors. The wine's deep ruby/purple color is
followed by lots of floral, licorice, lavender, pepper, roasted meat and herbes de provence notes. This complex,
concentrated, stunning Cotes du Rhone sells for a song. Drink it over the next 34 years.
D
Domaine de Mourchon | Cotes du Rhone Villages Seguret
30 Jun 2012
92/100
2009
UWS: 90/100
As for the 2009 Cotes du Rhones, which are all in bottle, the 2009 Cotes du RhoneVillages Seguret Tradition has a
dark ruby color and the telltale kirsch liqueur with some earthy and loamy soil notes in the background, as well as
hints of pepper and spice. It is a classic example of a Provencal wine. Medium to fullbodied and supple, it should
continue to drink well for another 45 years. In just over a decade, this familyowned estate has become not only a
top producer in the southern Rhone, but also a reference point for what's possible in the picturesque and touristy
hilltop village of Seguret. Now, under a negociant label called Mourchon, they have added a cuvee of Chateauneuf
du Pape, which follows the Cotes du Rhone reviews. Readers have to be careful, since it's not easy to distinguish
between the two cuvees of Family Reserve 2009. One has a back label that says Grenache, and is undoubtedly the
smaller cuvee, as it comes from very old vines and production was only 2,000 bottles. , including Dionysus Imports,
Houston, TX;
31 Oct 2011
89/100
Fleshy and smoky, with enticing mesquite, tobacco and iron notes weaving through the large core of fig and
blackberry fruit. The long, smoldering finish has some serious grip in reserve. Grenache, Syrah and Carignan.
15 Oct 2011
91/100
Vibrant ruby. Smoky nose with lots of ripe, spicy, tannic fruit that seems to worm its way into your affections. So
much tannin it is nowhere near ready. Not juicy; so hot! Approach only with chewy food in hand... Big, alcoholic
finish and I haven't even tackled this domaine's 16 per centers yet!
Jancis Robinson © (JR) 19 Aug 2011 16+/20
D
Domaine de Mourchon | Cotes du Rhone Villages Seguret
2010
UWS: 91/100
The less expense wines, which are much more abundant, start with the 2010 Cotes du RhoneVillages Seguret
Tradition. This blend of twothirds Grenache and a big chunk of Syrah (about 25%) and old vine Carignan exhibits
Published
by 90pluswines.com
a peppery, garriguedominated, black cherry
and
black fruited nose and flavors. Fullbodied, spicy and
299
concentrated, with silky tannins, this beauty displays classic Provencal characteristics and is remarkably full
Red Wines France
UWS: 91/100
The less expense wines, which are much more abundant, start with the 2010 Cotes du RhoneVillages Seguret
Tradition. This blend of twothirds Grenache and a big chunk of Syrah (about 25%) and old vine Carignan exhibits
a peppery, garriguedominated, black cherry and black fruited nose and flavors. Fullbodied, spicy and
concentrated, with silky tannins, this beauty displays classic Provencal characteristics and is remarkably full
flavored and dense. It should drink nicely for 56 years, if people can resist it. These are all sensational wines from
proprietor Walter McKinlay. , including Dionysus Imports, Houston, TX;
31 Oct 2012
91/100
65% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 10% Carignan. 40 yearold vines; 35 hl/ha. Raised in concrete. Brilliant crimson.
Lovely combo of leather and spice on the nose. Sweet start and really lively fruit on the palate with just the right
amount of acidity, energy and well managed (not drying) tannin. Gamey. Just a hint of reduction but very honest.
Fair price.
D
Domaine de Mourchon | Cotes du Rhone Villages Seguret Grande Reserve
2004
UWS: 90/100
Cette propriété acquise en 1998 par la famille McKinlay possède une bonne vingtaine d'hectares près d'un des plus
beaux villages de France. Deux tiers de grenache, un tiers de syrah pour une pure merveille, une leçon de séduction
et qui fait suite à un 2003 également coup de coeur. Rubis limpide et étincelant, ce vin élevé pour partie douze mois
en fût s'exprime sur le fruit rouge confit discrètement vanillé. En bouche, ces sensations se confirment dans un
superbe équilibre. La longueur ne fait pas défaut, les tanins sont déjà fondus. Une bouteille déjà superbe et que l'on
peut oublier trois ans dans la fraîcheur d'une bonne cave avant de la marier à une viande rouge ou à du gibier.
01 Jan 2007
3/3
Ripe, powerful blackberry and currant fruit cuts a broad swath, while tobacco, garrigue, loam and game notes fill in
behind it. Nice grip on the finish. Drink now through 2008. 2,500 cases made. JM
28 Feb 2006
90/100
The 2004 is mediumbodied with more noticeable acidity, a deep color, and a more feminine personality than the
blockbuster 2003. It is best drunk during its first 56 years of life.
28 Feb 2006
8587/100
A little reduced on the nose but a great broad swathe of spicy fruit on the palate with lots of fine tannins too and
personality. A mouthful of character! Slightly dry tannins on the finish.
D
Domaine Grand Nicolet | Cotes du Rhone
12 Jan 2006
16/20
2007
UWS: 92/100
A tankaged blend of 80% Grenache and the rest Syrah and Carignan, the 2007 Cotes du Rhone exhibits a dense
purple hue as well as a sweet, creamy, raspberry, and cherry nose with hints of licorice, roasted herbs, and peppery
spice. It is an opulent, fleshy 2007 revealing succulent fruit in addition to superb purity, texture, and length. This
outrageously delicious, complex Cotes du Rhone should evolve nicely for 56 years. These fairly priced as well as
exceptionally high quality efforts are made under the guidance of winemaking consultant Philippe Cambie, who has
quickly brought Domaine Grand Nicolet to the top.
D
Domaine Grand Nicolet | Cotes du Rhone
28 Feb 2009
9093/100
2009
UWS: 90/100
This estate is increasingly one of the superstars of the southern Rhone. For example, they have fashioned a
sumptuous 2009 Cotes du Rhone from a blend of 85% Grenache and 15% Syrah aged in cement tanks and bottled
unfined and unfiltered. It is a natural, pure wine with lots of sweet strawberry and black cherry fruit intermixed with
hints of licorice and lavender. Broad, opulent and hedonistic, it is a classic example of both the southern Rhone and
Provence. Drink it over the next 23 years.
eRobertParker.com
© (WA),
Published
by 90pluswines.com
Robert Parker
31 Oct 2010
8991/100
300
UWS: 90/100
Red Wines France
This estate is increasingly one of the superstars of the southern Rhone. For example, they have fashioned a
sumptuous 2009 Cotes du Rhone from a blend of 85% Grenache and 15% Syrah aged in cement tanks and bottled
unfined and unfiltered. It is a natural, pure wine with lots of sweet strawberry and black cherry fruit intermixed with
hints of licorice and lavender. Broad, opulent and hedonistic, it is a classic example of both the southern Rhone and
Provence. Drink it over the next 23 years.
D
31 Oct 2010
Domaine La Florane | Côtes du Rhône-Villages Visan
8991/100
2009
UWS: 90/100
Stylish, with a floral edge giving way to silky cherry and raspberry fruit which glides through the perfume and shiso
leaftinged finish. Very silky and persistent. Drink now through 2013. JM
D
Domaine Les Aphillanthes | Cotes du Rhone Villages
31 Oct 2011
90/100
2007
UWS: 92/100
Bold and very ripe, with delicious, almost gushing layers of blackberry, fig compote and boysenberry, all held
together by a strong minerally spine and a long, racy graphite finish. Rocksolid and very impressive for the
appellation. Grenache. Drink now through 2011. 500 cases made. JM
D
Domaine Saint Damien | Cotes du Rhone Vieilles Vignes
30 Sep 2009
92/100
2008
UWS: 90/100
Bright and juicy, with a minerally streak holding the black cherry and blackberry fruit together. A dusty edge frames
the lengthy finish. Drink now. 400 cases imported. JM
The bottled 2008 Cotes du Rhone Vieilles Vignes comes from the vast ocean of vines on the Plan de Dieu. Made from
50yearold Grenache vines that are biodynamically farmed, this star of the vintage exhibits a dense purple color as
well as loads of kirsch and black currant fruit intermixed with notions of pepper and smoke. Revealing amazing
concentration for the vintage, it is a big time sleeper of the vintage that should drink well for 24 years. I was
blown away by how the 2007 Gigondas cuvees, which I had rated very highly from barrel last year, had put on
weight and texture, and had become essentially as compelling as Gigondas can be. Clearly SaintDamien's young
proprietor, Joel Saurel, has moved this estate alongside the appellation's two superstars, Domaine Santa Duc and
Chateau SaintCosme. The three cuvees of 2007 Gigondas are absolutely profound. I am not sure I haven't
underrated them as I had them on two separate occasions and the numerical scores listed are actually from the
lower rated tasting. Come what may, these are unreal wines. For statisticians, these wines are aged 68 weeks in
cement tanks before they are moved to old wood foudres for 12 months prior to being bottled unfined and unfiltered.
The renowned Philippe Cambie is the consultant. All three of these Gigondas cuvees are amazing wines. Kudos to
Joel Saurel!
D
Eric Texier | Côtes du Rhône-Villages Chusclan
31 Oct 2009
90/100
2006
UWS: 90/100
Racy, with mouthwatering acidity driving the red currant, red cherry, sandalwood and incense notes through the
long, perfumy finish. A very restrained, pure style, with nice latent grip. Drink now through 2012. 350 cases made.
JM
Er
L. Charvin | Cotes du Rhone
28 Apr 2011
90/100
2006
301
Red Wines France
UWS: 90/100
01 Jan 2009
14,5/20
Mid crimson. Earthy, rather rustic nose. But then on the palate there is very sweet supple fruit. Lots of personality
and alcohol! But this is just the sort of wine that the southern Rhône does so well.
L.
L. Charvin | Cotes du Rhone
2009
UWS: 91/100
Strikingly pale crimson. Quite smoky and sulky on the nose. Bouncerlike tannins not letting anyone get past to the
clearly delicious sweet fruit behind. Quite sooty on the finish for now but once those tannins have relented a little bit
this should be lovely. (TC)
Jancis Robinson © (JR) 10 Nov 2010 16++/20
L.
Les Vins de Vienne | Côtes du Rhône Les Cranilles
2009
UWS: 90/100
A slightly austere Côtes du Rhône in a more subtle style, but I really like its berry and minerally character on the
nose and palate. Medium body, with fine tannins and a fruity finish. Drink now. SAQ Website/Find the wine
Le
21 Feb 2011
Daniel & Denis Alary | Cairanne
90/100
2009
UWS: 90/100
Bright purple. Sexy aromas of black raspberry, potpourri and blood orange, with an exotic touch of apricot that
builds with air. Seamless and alluringly sweet, offering vibrant red and dark berry flavors lifted by tangy minerality.
Shows excellent clarity and intensity on the long, spicy, mineralaccented finish.
Dark and sleek, with linzer torte, blackberry and blueberry compote notes inlaid with graphite and black tea. The
long finish has judicious toast and nice grip. Very solid. Drink now through 2013. JM
15 Oct 2011
91/100
Even better is the 2009 Cotes du RhoneVillages Cairanne Vieilles Vignes, from vines in excess of 50 years of age.
This blend of 65% Grenache, 25% Syrah and 10% Carignan was cropped at a low 36 hectoliters per hectare and
aged in tank until it was bottled without filtration. Copious notes of damp earth, truffles, garrigue, licorice, black
cherries and black currants jump from the glass of this ripe, fullbodied, heady red. Drink this classic Cotes du
Rhone over the next 34 years. One of the outstanding estates in the southern Rhone as well as a frequent entry in
these pages is Denis Alary's property in Cairanne.
D
Daniel & Denis Alary | Cairanne La Jean de Verde
2006
UWS: 90/100
Intense et sérieusement construit, fruit parfaitement mûr et concentré en bouche avec une belle texture, encore
ferme. Les tanins sont stricts mais bien fondus dans l'ensemble. Il lui faut du temps.
28 Apr 2011
16/20
Bright crimson. Much funkier than the Font d'Estevenas on the nose. More lift too though some pretty heavy tannins.
Not sure this will eventually come into balance.
302
UWS: 90/100
Intense et sérieusement construit, fruit parfaitement mûr et concentré en bouche avec une belle texture, encore
ferme. Les tanins sont stricts mais bien fondus dans l'ensemble. Il lui faut du temps.
Red Wines France
28 Apr 2011
16/20
Bright crimson. Much funkier than the Font d'Estevenas on the nose. More lift too though some pretty heavy tannins.
Not sure this will eventually come into balance.
D
Domaine de l'Oratoire Saint Martin | Cairanne Reserve des Seigneurs
2006
UWS: 91/100
The 2006 Cairanne Reserve des Seigneurs is a terrific wine that speaks loudly about the brilliance of the two
brothers who run this estate, Frederic and Francois Alary. This wine has admirable texture, purity, length, and full
bodied power. It is just a shame that some of the more prestigious appellations don't have producers making wine as
good as this. It should drink nicely for 78 years.
D
Domaine des Coteaux des Travers | Cairanne
2011
UWS: 90/100
Bright crimson. Very sweetly perfumed. Round and gentle and very charming. No attempt at making a wine for the
long term. Nice freshness with a touch of mint.
D
Domaine des Escaravailles | Cairanne La Ventabren
2009
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
D
Domaine des Escaravailles | Cairanne La Ventabren
15 Jul 2012
3/5
2011
UWS: 90/100
Pure, with a lovely core of bitter cherry, blood orange and pomegranate flavors coursing along, offering sleek
structure and a lingering mineral edge. Focused, bright and precise. Drink now through 2015. JM
31 Oct 2013
90/100
The outstanding 2011 Cotes du RhoneVillages Cairanne La Ventabren (70% Grenache, 20% Carignan and 10%
Syrah) is soft, expansive and voluminous in the mouth with heady garrigue, white pepper, underbrush, forest floor,
raspberry and kirsch notes. Drink this beautiful, medium to fullbodied Cairanne over the next 34 years. This
outstanding estate is located in Rasteau and owns over 160 acres of vines. Proprietor Gilles Ferran uses his friend
Philippe Cambie as his consulting oenologist, even though Ferran himself was trained as an oenologist at the
University of Montpellier. These are all topnotch wines.
D
Domaine Les Grands Bois | Cairanne Cuvee Gabrielle
31 Oct 2012
90/100
2011
UWS: 90/100
The 2011 Cotes du RhoneVillages Cuvee Gabrielle Rouge is composed of 55% Grenache, 35% Syrah and 10%
Carignan from 10 to 80yearold vines. It was aged in the larger, old oak demimuids for 11 months and bottled
unfiltered. Classic Provencal garrigue notes intermixed with licorice, soy sauce, black currants and black cherries
emerge from this mediumbodied, fruity red. There is not a lot of tannin or acidity in this plump, corpulent 2011, so
enjoy it over the next 24 years. Consistently one of my favorite estates in the Southern Rhone, Les Grands Bois
produces Cotes du Rhones that consistently overperform their appellation and modest prices. The four red wines
are all from the 2011 vintage, which Jeb Dunnuck has already commented about in the Southern Rhone. It's a
charming, fruitforward, evolved year that produced delicious, popandpour wines that are ideal for the current
marketplace. It's a nice fill in vintage while waiting for your bigger, richer, more structured and tannic 2010s to
evolve, as well as the enormously concentrated, almost overthetop 2007s to lose more baby fat.
28 Feb 2014
90/100
303
The 2011 Cotes du RhoneVillages Cuvee Gabrielle Rouge is composed of 55% Grenache, 35% Syrah and 10%
Carignan from 10 to 80yearold vines. It was aged in the larger, old oak demimuids for 11 months and bottled
unfiltered. Classic Provencal garrigue notes intermixed with licorice, soy sauce, black currants and black cherries
emerge from this mediumbodied, fruity red. There is not a lot of tannin or acidity in this plump, corpulent 2011, so
enjoy it over the next 24 years. Consistently one of my favorite estates in the Southern Rhone, Les Grands Bois
produces Cotes du Rhones that consistently overperform their appellation and modest prices. The four red wines
are all from the 2011 vintage, which Jeb Dunnuck has already commented about in the Southern Rhone. It's a
charming, fruitforward, evolved year that produced delicious, popandpour wines that are ideal for the current
marketplace. It's a nice fill in vintage while waiting for your bigger, richer, more structured and tannic 2010s to
evolve, as well as the enormously concentrated, almost overthetop 2007s to lose more baby fat.
Red Wines France
D
Domaines Perrin et Fils | Côtes du Rhône-Villages Cairanne La Peyre
Blanche
28 Feb 2014
90/100
2011
UWS: 90/100
A pure, solid version, with a core of blueberry, blackberry and bitter cherry fruit aligned to a solid graphite edge
and carrying through the judiciously toasted finish. Drink now through 2015. JM
D
Patrick Lesec | Cairanne Vieilles Vignes
28 Feb 2014
90/100
2001
UWS: 90/100
The tannic, structured, impressive, dark rubycolored 2001 Cotes du RhoneVillages Cairanne Vieilles Vignes (70%
Grenache, 15% Counoise, 10% Carignan, and the rest Syrah and Mourvedre) is a powerful, earthy, animalistic
offering that will undoubtedly be controversial given its meaty/animal fur characteristics. It's an impressive effort
from Cairanne. Give it 1218 months of cellaring, and consume it over the following decade.
Pa
Aurore Gauthier | Chateauneuf du Pape
29 Feb 2004
90/100
1998
UWS: 93/100
Lovely. Silky red, medium to full in body, offering focused red berry, licorice and black fruit along with wet earth,
smoke and grilled meat. Complex terroir surfaces here. Not a blockbuster, just a charmer from start to finish. Drink
now through 2015. 100 cases made. PM
Wine Spectator © (WS), PM
A
Chateau Beauchene | Chateauneuf du Pape Grande Reserve
30 Sep 2000
93/100
2011
UWS: 90/100
The lushness of this wine's purple plum fruit quickly overcomes the scent of oak; a bit of white pepper spice and
vibrant acidity join in to add freshness and lift. Off of 30 to 50yearold vines in Orange, it's hedonistic, a match for
suckling pig.
C
Domaine de la Pinede | Chateauneuf du Pape
01 Feb 2013
90/100
1998
UWS: 91/100
This special cuvee of 400 cases selected by the French wine broker, Alain Corcia, is sold only in the United States
and Japan. This may be proprietor Georges Coulant's finest La Pinede to date. The wine displays a pronounced
peppery, dried herb, resiny, Asian spicescented nose, huge, massive, thick, juicy, cherry and plumlike flavors,
superb intensity, fullbodied ripeness, and plenty of fat, glycerin, and alcohol. This hedonistic Chateauneuf du Pape
will be bottled with neither fining nor filtration. An Alain Corcia Selection, various American importers, including
Charmer Industries, NY; tel. (718) 7262500, Southern Wine and Spirits, CA; tel. (510) 487333 Premier Wines,
CA; tel. (510) 2376284,2, and Calvert Woodley Wines, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 9664400
D
Domaine de Saint Siffrein | Chateauneuf du Pape
31 Oct 1999
9092/100
2009
304
Red Wines France
UWS: 90/100
(65% grenache, 15% each of mourvedre and syrah and 5% cinsault, raised in foudres): Deep ruby. Redcurrant and
dried cherry on the nose, with subtle floral and rhubarb notes adding complexity. Dry and linear, with taut red berry
and lavender pastille flavors supported by tangy acidity. The rhubarb note repeats on the slightly bitter finish, which
shows good clarity and bite.
01 Jan 2012
89/100
The 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape (65% Grenache and the rest Syrah, Mourvedre and Cinsault) is a beauty. Aged
completely in foudre, it reveals classic Provencal notes of garrigue, red and black currants, pepper and black
cherries. Fullbodied, luscious and supple textured with silky tannins and low acidity, it should drink well for a
decade. This lowprofile, superb, organically run Chateauneuf du Pape estate has long been owned by the Chastan
family, who has about 35 acres of vines, all located in the northernmost sector of the appellation in two highly
respected lieuxdits, Palestor and Cabrieres. , including J A O Wine Imports, McLean, VA;
D
Domaines Perrin et Fils | Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve des Vieilles Vignes
31 Oct 2011
91/100
2010
UWS: 90/100
The classic 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve Vieilles Vignes exhibits a dark ruby/purple color along with copious
aromas of garrigue, pepper, black cherries, spice box and hints of lead pencil shavings and Christmas fruitcake.
Medium to fullbodied, precocious and fruitforward, it can be enjoyed over the next ten years. , including: T.
Edward Wines Ltd., New York, NY;
D
Selection Laurence Feraud | Chateauneuf du Pape
31 Oct 2012
90/100
2011
UWS: 90/100
Distinctive from the start, with a note of brick dust, bay and dark olive leading the way, followed by a dense core of
plum sauce, blackberry coulis and steeped cherry fruit. The long finish lets the charcoal and juniper hints stretch
out. Best from 2015 through 2021. JM
15 Jun 2014
91/100
Almost as good and along the same lines, the traditionally made 2011 Selection Laurence Feraud Chateauneuf du
Pape gives up complex, perfumed notes of garrigue, exotic wood, spice and background meatiness with a medium to
fullbodied, savory and chewy feel on the palate. This puppy is loaded with Provencal charm and should drink nicely
for another 67 years. Drink now2021. This classic, benchmark estate for traditionally made wines is run by the
talented, nononsense Laurence Feraud and her father Paul. While I struggle to think of a bad vintage here, 2010
certainly has to rank near the top of the heap and both the Cuvee Reservee and Cuvee da Capo are truly stunning,
worldclass efforts. 2011 is strong here as well, and should be consumed while you wait on the 2010s to come
around. The 2012s are more in the style of the 2010s, with slightly more reserved aromatics, solid purity and
beautifully fresh profiles. They too should be more accessible in their youth than the 2010s. A new development for
this estate is the roughly 100+ new acres of Cotes du Rhone and Cotes du Rhone Villages that have been purchased
just south of ChateauneufduPape, roughly 4 miles from the domaine. Formerly called Domaine de la Jouve, it lies
just outside the town of Sorgues and borders the Rhone River on its western edge. Now called Chateau Pegau, the
wines from here include a white Cotes du Rhone, the Cuvee Lone, a red Cotes du Rhone call Cuvee Maclure and a
red Cotes du Rhone Villages called Cuvee Setier. Laurence's negociant label is call Selection Laurence Feraud and
consists of purchased grapes from throughout the Southern Rhone. They always show traditional characters and can
represent solid values.
Se
Domaine Bernard Levet | Cote Rotie
31 Oct 2013
90/100
1999
UWS: 90/100
() Medium ruby. Aromatically complex nose of plum, truffle, smoked meat, leather and brown spices. Rich, sappy
and sweet, with lovely innermouth perfume and vibrant brown spices. Classic, slightly sauvage CoteRotie.
Persistent finish features substantial but fine Published
tannins. by 90pluswines.com
305
01 Jan 2002
90/100
Red Wines France
UWS: 90/100
() Medium ruby. Aromatically complex nose of plum, truffle, smoked meat, leather and brown spices. Rich, sappy
and sweet, with lovely innermouth perfume and vibrant brown spices. Classic, slightly sauvage CoteRotie.
Persistent finish features substantial but fine tannins.
D
01 Jan 2002
Chateau de Valcombe | Cotes du Ventoux Signature
90/100
2001
UWS: 90/100
Very ripe, very extracted, very sweet, this wine explodes with plum, fig and other fruits, such as black currants.
Delivers soft tannins, offering cherry and raspberry jam on the long and delicious finish. Drink now through 2005.
4,165 cases made. PM
C
28 Apr 2011
Chateau Pesquie | Cotes du Ventoux Cuvee des Terrasses
90/100
2003
UWS: 90/100
01 Jan 2006
16/20
The 2003 Cotes du Ventoux Les Terrasses (70% tankaged Grenache and 30% woodaged Syrah) is a soft, sexy,
delicious effort that comes across like a midweight Chateauneuf du Pape. Kirsch liqueur, garrigue, pepper, and
spice box are present in this medium to fullbodied, suppletextured, heady wine. Drink it over the next 34 years.
C
Chateau Pesquie | Cotes du Ventoux Cuvee des Terrasses
2005
UWS: 91/100
A 70/30 blend of grenache and syrah, the 2005 Pesquié gets a little funkier on the nose than its 2004 sibling: more
rubber and barnyard, with red cherry and clay in the background. Mint and mineral keep this dry, fullbodied red
distinctly Old World, but there's still some big ripe fruit to balance. Pop it while you marinate your best peppery
steak, then come back to it at the table.
28 Jan 2012
89/100
Château Pesquie is the finest estate in the Côtes du Ventoux, a gorgeous area east of Avignon. The best bargain is
their blend of 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah, the 2005 Les Terraces. These old vines have produced a deep
ruby/purplehued wine offering notes of licorice, black olives, kirsch liqueur, spice, and pepper. Fullbodied with
loads of fruit as well as a generous, savory mouthfeel, it is best drunk over the next several years.
29 Feb 2008
92/100
Deepish ruby/purple. Slightly acetic damsons. Pushed a little too hard? Much fresher on the palate, quite cedary,
intense black fruit. Slightly volatile? but this lifts the bright red and black fruit Furry ripe tannins. Fresh with
exceptional length for Côtes du Ventoux. GV (JH)
Jancis Robinson © (JR) 17 Dec 2007 16,5/20
C
Domaine de Fondreche | Cotes du Ventoux Cuvee Fayard
2011
UWS: 90/100
An outstanding wine, the 2011 Cotes du Ventoux Fayard is a blend of 50% Grenache, 30% Syrah and the rest equal
parts Mourvedre and Carignan from limestone soils. Delicious strawberry and black cherry fruit intermixed with
hints of damp earth and crushed chalk are all present in this mediumbodied, richly fruity wine. It's a terrific buy
and a flexible wine with an assortment of foods. Nearly every shrewd wine consumer is aware of the remarkable
wines that emanate from this highquality, biodynamically run estate in the Ventoux. A longstanding point of
reference for what is possible from this outlying appellation east of the Cotes du Rhone villages and Chateauneuf du
Pape, etc., this operation has been run with great precision and passion by proprietors Sebastien Vincenti and
Nanou Barthelemy. The natural, pure, uncomplicated, fresh, lively wines they produce are a message to everyone
trying to produce something special from relatively obscure areas. Fondreche certainly has an impressive track
Published
by 90pluswines.com
record of making wines that consumers adore.
However,
these wines do have limited aging potential. In the case306
of
their top reds, for example, they keep about 45 years, possibly longer, but they are so good young, who cares about
UWS: 90/100
An outstanding wine, the 2011 Cotes du Ventoux Fayard is a blend of 50% Grenache, 30% Syrah and the rest equal
parts Mourvedre and Carignan from limestone soils. Delicious strawberry and black cherry fruit intermixed with
hints of damp earth and crushed chalk are all present in this mediumbodied, richly fruity wine. It's a terrific buy
and a flexible wine with an assortment of foods. Nearly every shrewd wine consumer is aware of the remarkable
wines that emanate from this highquality, biodynamically run estate in the Ventoux. A longstanding point of
reference for what is possible from this outlying appellation east of the Cotes du Rhone villages and Chateauneuf du
Pape, etc., this operation has been run with great precision and passion by proprietors Sebastien Vincenti and
Nanou Barthelemy. The natural, pure, uncomplicated, fresh, lively wines they produce are a message to everyone
trying to produce something special from relatively obscure areas. Fondreche certainly has an impressive track
record of making wines that consumers adore. However, these wines do have limited aging potential. In the case of
their top reds, for example, they keep about 45 years, possibly longer, but they are so good young, who cares about
aging? The white wines are generally fermented in barrel, then moved to tank and bottled early for their freshness
and delightful fruit.
Red Wines France
D
31 Oct 2012
Domaine de Fondreche | Cotes du Ventoux Cuvee Nadal
90/100
2009
UWS: 92/100
The outrageously delicious 2009 Cotes du Ventoux Nadal (50% tankaged Grenache from 70yearold vines, 40%
Syrah and 10% Mourvedre, both aged in barrel) boasts a dense purple color along with sweet, ripe aromas of black
currants, black cherries, licorice and camphor. This opaque purplecolored, dense, opulent, medium to fullbodied,
stunning wine sells at an incredibly fair price. The leading reference point estate in the Cotes du Ventoux region,
Domaine de Fondreche is run with extraordinary passion and impeccable attention to detail by Sebastian Vincenti
and Manou Barthelemy. This large estate of just under 100 acres is biodynamically farmed and all the red wines are
bottled unfined and unfiltered. Additionally, the Cuvee Nature was produced without any SO2 .
D
31 Oct 2010
Domaine de la Royere | Cotes du Ventoux La Garance
92/100
2003
UWS: 90/100
La Garance est une plante grimpante autrefois cultivée dans le Midi de la France pour sa racine qui fournit
l'alizarine, substance colorante rouge. Un joli nom pour cette cuvée à la robe rouge sombre et au nez de fruits
rouges frais (fraise, cerise). Très expressive, volumineuse, elle est fine et équilibrée. Il faudra attendre deux ans pour
la déguster sur du gibier ou du fromage de chèvre.
D
Domaine Saint-Jean du Barroux | Cotes du Ventoux l'Oligocene
01 Jan 2006
2/3
2004
UWS: 91/100
Ventoux/Luberon/Nimes. #1; COLORdark; NOSEAmaronelike nose (chocolate & raisins); a stew component; not
as good as the '03, but a beautiful & concentrated nose; steak tartar meets pomegranate w/ Raisinettes; TASTE
gorgeous mouthfeel; great clarity of pure fruit; very solid; don't like as much as the '03 vintage, but, for $24 bones
this is ripping; this bottle has complexity and more structure than the '03; nice herbaceous tea aspect is kicking as
part of the secondary flavors on the long finish; not quite the '03, but this is really good; classic; RP90; GV92+
Wine Lib TV © (WLTV) 21 Mar 2008 92+/100
Another upandcoming but little known estate from the Cotes du Ventoux, this could well be one of the next hot cult
wines from Provence given the quality of this release. A blend of 75% Grenache and the rest Syrah, Carignan, and
Cinsault, the wine has a deep ruby/purple color, a natural savory mouthfeel with terrific ripeness, soft but noticeable
tannins in addition to plenty of Provencal herbs, pepper, and meaty black cherry and black currant fruit notes. The
wine is a beauty, and should age nicely for 56 years.
D
Domaine Saint-Jean du Barroux | Cotes du Ventoux l'Oligocene
28 Feb 2007
90/100
2005
UWS: 91/100
The 2005 Cotes de Ventoux is a gorgeous blend of 75% Grenache, 15% Syrah, and the rest Carignan and Cinsault.
The wine's bouquet is reminiscent of a great Cote Rotie even though the Syrah component is small and no Viognier
is utilized. Exotic floral aromas intermixed with blackberry and cherry fruit jump from the glass. In the mouth, the
wine is soft, velvety, medium to fullbodied, pure, elegant, and exotic. Drink this beauty over the next 45 years.
Former pharmacist Philippe Gimel uses a combination of organic and biodynamic farming methods in this
vineyard.
307
UWS: 91/100
Red Wines France
The 2005 Cotes de Ventoux is a gorgeous blend of 75% Grenache, 15% Syrah, and the rest Carignan and Cinsault.
The wine's bouquet is reminiscent of a great Cote Rotie even though the Syrah component is small and no Viognier
is utilized. Exotic floral aromas intermixed with blackberry and cherry fruit jump from the glass. In the mouth, the
wine is soft, velvety, medium to fullbodied, pure, elegant, and exotic. Drink this beauty over the next 45 years.
Former pharmacist Philippe Gimel uses a combination of organic and biodynamic farming methods in this
vineyard.
D
Domaine Jean-Louis Chave | Crozes Hermitage Silene
2005
UWS: 91/100
Packed with fruit and minerality, this shows raspberry ganache, fig and licorice notes on top of a stony
underpinning. A nice tangy iron note checks in on the finish. Drink now through 2013. 1,000 cases made. JM
D
30 Jun 2007
de (Michel Faraud) Cayron | Gigondas
91/100
2004
UWS: 90/100
01 Jan 2007
16/20
Thanks to trailblazing importer Kermit Lynch, this is one Gigondas that's been available in the U.S. for years. The
2004 boasts an intriguing blend of spices that ranges from clove and coffee to pepper and celery seed, while the fruit
lurks underneath. Tannins are supple, gently supporting the wine's weight and complexity. Drink now2015.
Bright crimson. Very rich and hot. Very spicy. Very sweet. Very Grenache. A little bit simple but a good drink. Quite
marked astringency. No shortage of alcohol. Not subtle!
12 Jan 2006
16/20
Medium ruby color. Rich, earthy nose offers ripe red berry and mocha aromas and notes of baking spices and
roasted coffee. Round and supple in the mouth, with sweet floral and wild strawberry notes. Intriguing nuances of
thyme and tarragon emerge up on the fleshy but firm finish.
de
01 Jan 2006
Domaine de Longue-Toque | Gigondas
8991/100
2006
UWS: 90/100
The wellmade 2006 Gigondas exhibits sweet raspberry fruit interwoven with hints of crushed rocks and flowers.
With sweet tannin, medium to full body, and striking elegance as well as purity, it can be enjoyed over the next 78
years. This 45acre Gigondas estate is now owned by the large firm of Gabriel Meffre, who has done a superb job
of reviving the high quality these wines had a decade or more ago. Aged in tank for 12 months prior to bottling, this
cuvee is generally a blend of 75% Grenache, 20% Syrah and the rest Mourvedre and Cinsault.
28 Feb 2009
89/100
Deep red. Ripe red and dark berry aromas are complicated by smoked meat and baking spices. Creamy raspberry
and blackcurrant flavors are firmed by juicy acidity and framed by finegrained tannins. The red fruit character
builds on the sweet, persistent finish. This is delicious now. (Gabriel Meffre America, Princeton, NJ)
D
01 Jan 2009
90/100
2007
UWS: 91/100
Vivid color. Raspberry, cherry, dried rose and spicecake on the nose. Fresh red fruit flavors are framed by silky
tannins and given lift by a note of blood orange. Finishes with gentle sweetness and lingering bitter cherry and white
pepper notes. This has sneaky depth and appears built to age. (Gabriel Meffre America Princeton NJ
01 Jan 2010
90/100
The finest wine made at Longue Toque in two decades, the 2007 Gigondas' dense ruby/purple color is followed by a
stunningly sweet nose of framboise, blueberries,
kirsch. A mineral component makes an appearance, but
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by 90pluswines.com
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extravagant fruit dominates at this stage of the wine's development. Superb texture, full body, admirable purity, and
UWS: 91/100
Red Wines France
Vivid color. Raspberry, cherry, dried rose and spicecake on the nose. Fresh red fruit flavors are framed by silky
tannins and given lift by a note of blood orange. Finishes with gentle sweetness and lingering bitter cherry and white
pepper notes. This has sneaky depth and appears built to age. (Gabriel Meffre America Princeton NJ
01 Jan 2010
90/100
The finest wine made at Longue Toque in two decades, the 2007 Gigondas' dense ruby/purple color is followed by a
stunningly sweet nose of framboise, blueberries, and kirsch. A mineral component makes an appearance, but
extravagant fruit dominates at this stage of the wine's development. Superb texture, full body, admirable purity, and
a long finish suggest it should drink nicely for 1015 years. This 45acre Gigondas estate is now owned by the large
firm of Gabriel Meffre, who has done a superb job of reviving the high quality these wines had a decade or more
ago. Aged in tank for 12 months prior to bottling, this cuvee is generally a blend of 75% Grenache, 20% Syrah and
the rest Mourvedre and Cinsault.
D
28 Feb 2009
9093/100
2010
UWS: 91/100
LongueToque's 2010 Gigondas is a blend of primarily Grenache with some Syrah and Mourvedre from 25yearold
vines, and aged in vat. It exhibits an opaque purple color along with lots of minerality and a somewhat modern style
in its superripeness and unctuosity. Beautifully pure blackberry and black currant fruit is found in this layered 2010
along with lots of glycerin, heady alcohol and a rich, long finish with good definition. It should drink nicely for a
decade or more. This wellknown estate owned by the large firm of Gabriel Meffre has produced two outstanding
examples of Gigondas in what may be the finest vintage I have ever tasted in this appellation.
31 Oct 2012
90/100
Vivid purple. Concentrated, vaguely medicinal cherry and cassis on the nose, with bright minerality adding lift and
verve. Initially clenched but opens up to show dense dark fruit flavors and a hint of bitter cherry. Offers seamless
texture and a spicy, energetic finish, with the cherry and mineral notes repeating.
01 Jan 2012
9092/100
Dark purplish crimson. Floral scents, almost soapy. Very firm, dry palate with marked tannins. One for the cellar,
with marked acidity.
D
Domaine du Pesquier | Gigondas
2004
UWS: 90/100
A beautiful effort, Domaine du Pesquier's 2004 Gigondas is made from 75% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 5%
Mourvedre, completely destemmed, and aged 80% in foudre and 20% (on lees) in tank. Showing classic Gigondas
peppery spice and mesquite characteristics, it opens up nicely in the glass and has beautiful berry fruit, garrigue and
hints of game. Medium to fullbodied, rich, textured and elegant, I love the overall balance on the palate, as well as
the complexity on the nose. Drinking great right now, I'd consume bottles over the coming couple of years, though it
will certainly evolve for longer.
An impressive effort from this Sablet proprietor, this tankaged Gigonda is a blend of equal parts Syrah and
Grenache. The inky/ruby/purplecolored 2004 Gigondas reveals aromas reminiscent of sushi seaweed wrappers
intermixed with black cherries, crushed rocks, blackberries, and flowers. Deep and fullbodied with gorgeous fruit,
fine acidity, and abundant body, it should be consumed during its first decade of life.
28 Feb 2006
9092/100
An animale Gigondas, this wraps its dry cherry and plum fruit in leather, highlights it with wild herbs, and supports
it with warm, espressoroast tannins. Drink now with a roast.
01 Feb 2008
90/100
Broad, evolved, relatively light nose. Very light and easy tastes as though they are not really trying, or perhaps as
though the wine had been heavily filtered. Tannins only on the very end.
D
Chateau D'Aquéria | Lirac
2007
309
Red Wines France
UWS: 90/100
Robe rose foncée, corps onctueux et suave, avec des arômes intenses de fruits rouges et d'épices. Élégant et
équilibré, le vin possède tout ce qu'on peut attendre d'un grand tavel.
Bettane et Desseauve © (BETD) 30 Nov 2012 16/20
C
01 Jan 2009
Domaine Lafond Roc Epine | Lirac La Ferme Romaine
15,5/20
2006
UWS: 90/100
Floral and redfruited, this is a gentler, more elegant year of La Ferme Romaine. It's creamy in texture, with supple
tannins, and should be consumed now2015. Long and fresh on the finish.
Readers looking for pure truffle, garrigue, grilled herb, and spice characteristics should check out the 2006 Lirac La
Ferme Romaine, which represents the essence of Provence. It is best consumed over the next 23 years. Fair prices
and exuberant fruit make it easy for Domaine Lafond's wines to attract fans. Whether it be their exquisite Tavel rose,
their delicious Cotes du Rhones, or their most ambitious wines, the Chateauneuf du Papes, all are noteworthy
efforts. These are wines best drunk in their flamboyant youth, and in the case of the Chateauneuf du Papes, in their
first decade.
31 Oct 2008
88/100
CS. More closed than the straight Lirac. Spicy, mineral restrained dark fruit. Chewy but very chewable tannins and
a fresh savoury, almost bittercherry finish. (JH)
Jancis Robinson © (JR) 08 May 2008 16,5+/20
D
Domaine Lafond Roc Epine | Lirac Roc Epine
2010
UWS: 90/100
IWine Review © (IWR) 19 Dec 2013 90/100
NB vintage. Dark crimson. Very gamey nose and just a little severe but very ambitious. Dry finish.
This has a fleshy feel, with toasty grip wellembedded, allowing the core of plum sauce, crushed blackberry and
black tea notes to glide along nicely. Drink now through 2013. JM
D
Domaine de Beaurenard (Paul Coulon) | Rasteau
31 Oct 2012
90/100
2010
UWS: 90/100
NB vintage. Dark crimson. Quite rich and bold and bloody on the nose. Sweet start and some spice but overall a
little clenched.
Youthfully tight, featuring a serious graphite spine at the core, with flavors of dark plum, black currant and steeped
plum fruit waiting to flesh out fully. The fresh, spiceembedded finish reveals an echo of ganache. Best from 2013
through 2017. JM
D
Domaine la Soumade | Cotes du Rhone Villages Rasteau Prestige
2007
UWS: 90/100
There are three cuvees of Rasteau, all of them outstanding. The dark ruby/purplehued 2007 Cotes du Rhone
Villages Rasteau Cuvee Prestige possesses aPublished
velvety by
personality
crammed with kirsch liqueur, blackberry, charcoal,
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310
and chocolate characteristics. Spicy, fullbodied, pure, and remarkably supple and approachable for a young
Red Wines France
UWS: 90/100
There are three cuvees of Rasteau, all of them outstanding. The dark ruby/purplehued 2007 Cotes du Rhone
Villages Rasteau Cuvee Prestige possesses a velvety personality crammed with kirsch liqueur, blackberry, charcoal,
and chocolate characteristics. Spicy, fullbodied, pure, and remarkably supple and approachable for a young
Rasteau, it should be drunk over the next 1012 years. Few vignerons are more interesting to visit than Domaine La
Soumade's Andre Romero, whose wines are longtime reference points for the wines of Rasteau, a village with some
incredible terroirs as well as a high percentage of old vine Grenache. Romero makes a bevy of Vin de Pays
offerings, but his finest cuvees are his Cotes du Rhone and Rasteau wines. He also produces a small amount of
Gigondas. Readers who don't think Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon can do well in the Mistral winds and dry heat of
the southern Rhone should check out Soumade's offerings. St.Emilion's guru, Stephane Derenoncourt is the
consulting winemaker, which may help explain why these wines are so good.
28 Feb 2009
9193/100
Chewy and firm in the mouth, with perhaps not quite enough concentration to match the structure. (RH)
D
Domaine Les Grands Bois | Rasteau Cuvee Marc
2009
UWS: 92/100
This is ripe, with an array of blueberry, linzer torte, currant paste and boysenberry flavors that stay extremely
focused, with dark roasted spice and a very racy graphite edge on the finish. Drink now through 2013. JM
15 Oct 2011
91/100
A big, but not rustic effort, the inky purplecolored 2009 Cotes du RhoneVillages Rasteau Cuvee Marc (composed
of 50% Grenache, 25% Mourvedre and 25% Syrah aged 11 months in larger wood demimuids) possesses roasted
herb, white chocolate, black cherry liqueur and berry characteristics. This supple, fullbodied, rich 2009 displays
sweet tannin as well as a voluminous, textured mouthfeel. Drink this beauty over the next 45 years. I tasted three
early release 2010 red wines (which appears to be another terrific vintage in the southern Rhone). All three exhibits
lots of color, extract and richness as well as fresh acids and sweet tannin. Moreover, they appear to be more
ageworthy than the early maturing, but seductive 2009s.
D
Domaine Saint Gayan | Rasteau
2006
UWS: 90/100
This is inviting, with aromas and flavors of warm fig, crushed plum and mesquite backed by velvety tannins. The nice
tar, tobacco and cocoatinged finish stays fresh. Drink now through 2010. JM
28 Apr 2011
Decanter © (DC)
D
Domaine des Remizieres | Saint Joseph
90/100
28 Apr 2011
3/5
2009
UWS: 91/100
Deep ruby. Sexy aromas of candied dark berries, cherrycola and Indian spices, with slowbuilding florality. Juicy,
sharply defined blackberry and bitter cherry flavors turn sweeter with air and pick up a sexy note of floral pastilles
on the bright, nervy back end.
D
Domaine Chamfort | Vacqueyras
2011
UWS: 90/100
A solid effort, Chamfort's 2011 Vacqueyras is a blend of 65% Grenache, 25% Mourvedre and 10% Syrah that spent
12 to 18 months in equal parts vat and French oak tanks. Offering classic southern Rhone spice, leather, garrigue
and hints of earth, with predominantly red fruits, it is nicely balanced, mediumbodied and possesses good acidity.
Drink it over the coming 56 years.
311
Red Wines France
UWS: 90/100
A solid effort, Chamfort's 2011 Vacqueyras is a blend of 65% Grenache, 25% Mourvedre and 10% Syrah that spent
12 to 18 months in equal parts vat and French oak tanks. Offering classic southern Rhone spice, leather, garrigue
and hints of earth, with predominantly red fruits, it is nicely balanced, mediumbodied and possesses good acidity.
Drink it over the coming 56 years.
Blackish crimson. Fresh and sappy on the nose. Very juicy and direct and frank. Not too sweet and certainly not too
tannic.
D
Domaine Font-Sarade | Vacqueyras
2002
UWS: 90/100
Grenache (55 %) et syrah (40 %) se partagent la vedette, escortés d'un peu de mourvèdre dans ce vin rouge profond.
Le nez évoque les fruits rouges, la réglisse, mêlés de subtiles notes florales de violette. Incontestablement, c'est la
syrah qui se manifeste actuellement. Quelques nuances de torréfaction apparaissent, comme un signe de complexité
à venir. La matière pleine, volumineuse et équilibrée est empreinte de flaveurs de cerise, de noyau et de pivoine.
Très structurée mais sans aucune austérité, elle fait preuve d'intensité et d'expressivité. A boire ou à attendre (trois
ans).
D
01 Jan 2005
2/3
2003
UWS: 90/100
This serious offering from Proprietor Bernard Burle was aged 10 months in barrel after a long maceration. Burle hit
the bull's eye with his 2003 Vacqueyras. Made from equal parts Grenache and Syrah, this superb offering boasts a
deep ruby/purple color as well as a big bouquet of jammy black currants and cherries, licorice, herbes de Provence,
and roasted meats. This big, spicy, rich, voluptuouslytextured 2003 is ready to drink. It should be consumed over
the next 23 years for its undeniable charm and extroverted personality.
28 Feb 2006
89/100
Vous trouverez aisément cette imposante maison sur la D 8. Son vignoble, fort de 33 ha aujourd'hui, est né de
l'association de deux familles de vignerons au début du XIXes., l'une de Vacqueyras, l'autre de Gigondas. Bernard
Burle a élaboré un vacqueyras déjà charmeur, mais dont l'aptitude à la garde est certaine. Ce vin cache bien son
jeu, en effet, sous sa robe à reflets violacés. La complexité de ses arômes annonce un fort potentiel. Certes, les fruits
rouges cuits et les épices se manifestent, mais l'on décèle aussi des senteurs de garrigue et de sousbois, suivies de
nuances boisées et animales. Le bouquet n'est pas près de se faner. Une vendange certainement irréprochable est à
l'origine de cette chair ample et ronde, étayée par des tanins fermes mais de qualité.
D
01 Jan 2006
2/3
2005
UWS: 91/100
The deep purplehued 2005 Vacqueyras (a 5050 blend of Syrah and Grenache) exhibits sweet, smoky aromas of red
and black fruits, licorice, underbrush, and spice. Fleshy, with excellent purity and a long, moderately tannic, velvety
finish, it should be consumed over the next 78 years. A Jack Siler Selection, various American importers;
Springfield, VA; tel. (703) 6445210
D
29 Feb 2008
91/100
2006
UWS: 90/100
An outstanding effort, the dense ruby/purpletinged 2006 Vacqueyras Cuvee Classique exhibits lavender, roasted
herb, black cherry, loamy soil, and pepper characteristics. Medium to fullbodied and suppletextured, this delicious,
pure, wellbalanced 2006 can be drunk over the next 56 years. Proprietor Bernard Burle has 45 acres in
Vacqueyras which represents half of his entire
domaine
in the southern Rhone. A Jack Siler Selection, Springfield,
Published
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VA; tel. (703) 6445210; various American importers.
Red Wines France
UWS: 90/100
An outstanding effort, the dense ruby/purpletinged 2006 Vacqueyras Cuvee Classique exhibits lavender, roasted
herb, black cherry, loamy soil, and pepper characteristics. Medium to fullbodied and suppletextured, this delicious,
pure, wellbalanced 2006 can be drunk over the next 56 years. Proprietor Bernard Burle has 45 acres in
Vacqueyras which represents half of his entire domaine in the southern Rhone. A Jack Siler Selection, Springfield,
VA; tel. (703) 6445210; various American importers.
28 Feb 2009
90/100
Deep ruby. Deep, youthfully brooding aromas of kirsch, cassis and licorice are brightened by fresh rose and smoky
minerals. Broad, palatestaining dark berry flavors are firmed by finegrained tannins, picking up a sweet floral
pastille quality with air. Serious and concentrated but with no hard edges, finishing with excellent focus and lift.
(Jack Siler Selections, Springfield, VA)
D
01 Jan 2009
90/100
2010
UWS: 94/100
Particularly deep blackish purple. Energy on the nose. Sweet start. Loose texture. All on the front rather than the
finish. A bit of alcohol on the end but that is rare for this appellation. Round sweet fruit. Lots of shortterm pleasure.
Then a little minerality on the finish.
D
Domaine le Clos des Cazaux | Vacqueyras Cuvée des Templiers
2000
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
28 Sep 2011
4/5
The 2000 Vacqueyras Cuvee des Templiers exhibits a dark ruby/purple color in addition to a sweet perfume of black
fruits, licorice, and spice box. Enjoy this soft, dense, chunky 2000 over the next 46 years. No known American
importer.
D
28 Feb 2003
Maison Arnoux et Fils | Vacqueyras Seigneur de Lauris
86/100
2010
UWS: 90/100
A solid version, with a core of plum paste and raspberry coulis flavors, lined with singed apple wood nuances and
held together by a charcoal spine on the finish. Drink now through 2017. JM
(70% grenache and 30% syrah): Bright purple. Explosive aromas of black and blue fruits, incense and licorice, with
a sexy floral quality becoming more intense with air. Sweet and pliant on the palate, offering vibrant blackberry and
boysenberry flavors and showing no rough edges. Finishes spicy, nervy and long, with a resonating note of cracked
pepper and very good clarity. I found both the 2010 Vacqueyras JeanMarie Arnoux and the 2010 Vacqueyras 1717
too disjointed to judge fairly in November and will retry them after they're bottled.
M
01 Jan 2012
Maison Arnoux et Fils | Vacqueyras Vieux Clocher
9193/100
2001
UWS: 90/100
Encore une très belle robe, nez complexe d'épices et de réglisse mêlés à des notes finement boisées. Une bouche
complète et de belle intensité avec de l'expression et des tanins fondus. Bon style séduisant dans son expression.
M
01 Jan 2005
16/20
2007
313
Red Wines France
UWS: 90/100
Complex nose of earthy, warm forest floor, baked black fruit, raisins, prunes and roasted meat. Quite extracted on
the palate but not heavy. Fullbodied, fresh and very flavorful with layers of black plum, cherry, dried fruit,
chocolate, clove and spice. Supple tannins that linger on a savory finish.
15 Oct 2010
89/100
(65% grenache, 20% syrah and 15% mourvedre) Vivid ruby. Pungent bouquet of dark berries, smoke and
underbrush, with mounting spice and floral qualities. Smoothly textured and sweet, offering blackberry and kirsch
flavors and a touch of smoky herbs. The seductively fruitdriven finish leaves sweet berry and floral pastille notes
behind. This has gained in complexity since last year.
M
01 Jan 2010
90/100
2009
UWS: 90/100
Deep ruby. Sexy aromas of red fruit preserves, Moroccan spices and musky herbs are complemented by a slow
building floral quality. Spicy and concentrated, with an alluring sweetness and good heft to its red and dark berry
flavors. Offers very good finishing clarity and lingering spiciness, with a resonating herbal note. These five wines
are made up of 70% grenache, 25% syrah and 5% mourvedre.
01 Jan 2011
8991/100
Dark clarety look not very concentrated at the rim. Very rich and developed on the nose. Real life and spine to this
wine, even if it not very rich. There's a distinct salty note to it. Easy and without faults.
M
21 Oct 2010
16/20
2010
UWS: 90/100
(70% grenache, 25% syrah and 5% mourvedre): Dark purple. Ripe dark berries and cherrycola, with hints of
garrigue and licorice adding complexity. Dense and broad on the palate, offering powerful cherry and cassis flavors
lifted by a peppery, spicy quality. Closes on a sweet note, with chewy tannins and good persistence.
01 Jan 2012
8991/100
314
Red Wines France
Roussillon
M
Agly Brothers | Côtes du Roussillon
2004
UWS: 90/100
Michel et Corinne Chapoutier, venus des terrasses de Tain, s'allient à Ron et Elva Langhton, du domaine australien
Jasper Ill; ils choisissent de vieux ceps de l'Agly cultivés en biodynamie qui donnent ce vin remarquable à la robe
pourpre et vive. Le nez chemine entre le fruit mûr épicé et la douceur vanillée d'un excellent élevage sous bois. Les
tanins présents mais déjà mûrs structurent la bouche, ample et équilibrée, et prolongent le plaisir en finale par de
délicates notes boisées. À ouvrir dans un an sur un tournedos aux morilles.
A
01 Jan 2008
2/3
2005
UWS: 90/100
A zesty, fullbodied red, with lush flavors of huckleberry, raspberry and dark plum. Plush midpalate, with a finish of
cocoa powder and ripe cherry. Drink now through 2012. 50 cases imported. KM
28 Apr 2011
91/100
Notes of olive and bay leaves add some interesting complexity to the nose of this blend, otherwise dominated by
typical red berry flavors. Ripe and rich on the palate with medium acidity and lighter tannins. The finish, dominated
by beautiful notes of wild strawberries, is long and satisfying.
A
2008
UWS: 90/100
Concentrated cherry and spice flavors are focused and puretasting in this wellstructured and powerful red. Leafy
notes on the finish are accented with olive and fig. Drink now through 2018. KM
31 Oct 2012
90/100
The Agly Brothers 2008 Cotes du Roussillon smells and tastes of blueberry and blackberry preserves laced with
mint, cinnamon, and lavender. Polished, expansive, and soothing, this offers a seductive performance, but with
suggestions of berry skin tartness, huckleberry bitterness, and crushed stone warding off any tendency for it to finish
entirely elixirlike. It ought to give great pleasure over at least the next 68 years. Agly Brothers a twelve year old
collaboration between Michel Chapoutier and Jasper Hill ownervintner Ron Laughton of Victoria, Australia
continues to feature Carignan and Syrah from northfacing gneiss in the upper Agly and Grenache from a schistic,
southfacing site in Latour de France. The wine is matured in demimuids, then tank, under the direction of Bila
Haut vineyard and cellar manager Gilles Troullier.
A
30 Jun 2011
91/100
2009
UWS: 90/100
Tasted assembled and awaiting bottling, the Agly Brothers 2009 Cotes du Roussillon smells of peat and black fruits,
but with a detached aura of toasted oak in the guise of lanolin, coconut, and caramel, which accompany cooked
boysenberry and cassis on a rather obviously tanninstarched palate. A lowtoned finish lingers impressively, though
without much brightness. In the context of an illustrious series, the present installment is a bit disappointing. While it
ought to serve well over the next several years, I would not be tempted to try to attempt waitingout the resolution of
the tannins. Agly Brothers a twelve year old collaboration between Michel Chapoutier and Jasper Hill owner
vintner Ron Laughton of Victoria, Australia continues to feature Carignan and Syrah from northfacing gneiss in the
upper Agly and Grenache from a schistic, southfacing site in Latour de France. The wine is matured in demimuids,
then tank, under the direction of BilaHaut vineyard and cellar manager Gilles Troullier.
315
eRobertParker.com
© (WA), David Schildknecht 30 Jun 2011 8990/100
UWS: 90/100
Tasted assembled and awaiting bottling, the Agly Brothers 2009 Cotes du Roussillon smells of peat and black fruits,
but with a detached aura of toasted oak in the guise of lanolin, coconut, and caramel, which accompany cooked
boysenberry and cassis on a rather obviously tanninstarched palate. A lowtoned finish lingers impressively, though
without much brightness. In the context of an illustrious series, the present installment is a bit disappointing. While it
ought to serve well over the next several years, I would not be tempted to try to attempt waitingout the resolution of
the tannins. Agly Brothers a twelve year old collaboration between Michel Chapoutier and Jasper Hill owner
vintner Ron Laughton of Victoria, Australia continues to feature Carignan and Syrah from northfacing gneiss in the
upper Agly and Grenache from a schistic, southfacing site in Latour de France. The wine is matured in demimuids,
then tank, under the direction of BilaHaut vineyard and cellar manager Gilles Troullier.
Red Wines France
A
30 Jun 2011
8990/100
2010
UWS: 91/100
These Chapoutier wines are sometimes reviewed by my colleagues David Schildknect in his LanguedocRoussillon
report and Lisa PerrottiBrown in her reviews of Australian wines, so I will just list the wines, my score, and the
region from which they emerge. They are of very high quality and deserve readers' attention. Hopefully my prose has
convinced more than a handful of readers to try these remarkable wines from one of the most fascinating and
compelling personalities in the entire wine world, and one dedicated to the highest quality.
A
Chateau Saint-Roch | Cotes du Roussillon Chimeres
2009
UWS: 91/100
From (in order of importance) Syrah, Grenache, and Carignan grown on schist, the Chateau Saint Roch 2009 Cotes
du Roussillon Chimeres delivers scents and palate impingement akin to crushed stone, with iodine and fruit pit
further accenting its ripe dark cherry, purple plum, and black raspberry fruit. This displays a saturation of tine
tannins and a staininducing intensity of sheer fruit, along with a surprising sense of lift and vivacity, even though
those virtues are combined with a hint of heat. It should perform well for at least 34 years.
C
30 Jun 2011
Clos del Rey | Côtes du Roussillon
91/100
2002
UWS: 90/100
Aromas and flavors of raspberry and cream, with plenty of mocha java. An alluring red that's focused, with plenty of
structure and a long, spicy finish. Drink now through 2009. 300 cases imported. KM
28 Feb 2007
Cl
Domaine du Mas Cremat | Côtes du Roussillon
89/100
01 Jan 2005
16/20
2004
UWS: 91/100
A blend of Syrah and Grenache Noir. This has a much deeper hue than the preceding vin de pays,, with rather a
glossy appearance. Closed down on the nose. Lovely, creamy texture on the palate, again showing little at present,
but putting on a very nice display of softly ripe tannins. Very good style here; needs 34 years minimum.
D
Domaine Sarda-Malet | Rivesaltes La Carbasse
2007
UWS: 90/100
The SardaMallet 2007 Rivesaltes La Carbasse possesses black raspberry preserves tinged with blond tobacco and
nutmeg; is far from exaggerated in sweetness; and retains a welcome sense of sap even if it doesn't bring that much
complexity into its finish. This will no doubt have its uses over at least the next several years, though I do not have a
sense for whether it would be interesting to follow it for longer. I tasted with Jerome Malet's team a subset of
cuvees from among the large number on offer at this address and found considerable interest and pleasure as I
have in the past even if little genuine excitement. Certain ostensibly simpler cuvees once again offered greater
satisfaction than did more ambitious and more obviouslywooded (not to mention doublyexpensive) cuvees. I was
also given an opportunity to retaste the red cuvee Mailloles from vintages 20042007, but my new notes were
sufficiently consistent with those I published in issue 183 the 2007 and 2005 bottlings proving the most successful I
316
have tasted in this series that I did not think they merited publishing as part of the present report. Tasting a 2001
only served to pointup the limitations of longerterm aging for this cuvee, its notes of game awkwardly dominate
UWS: 90/100
The SardaMallet 2007 Rivesaltes La Carbasse possesses black raspberry preserves tinged with blond tobacco and
nutmeg; is far from exaggerated in sweetness; and retains a welcome sense of sap even if it doesn't bring that much
complexity into its finish. This will no doubt have its uses over at least the next several years, though I do not have a
sense for whether it would be interesting to follow it for longer. I tasted with Jerome Malet's team a subset of
cuvees from among the large number on offer at this address and found considerable interest and pleasure as I
have in the past even if little genuine excitement. Certain ostensibly simpler cuvees once again offered greater
satisfaction than did more ambitious and more obviouslywooded (not to mention doublyexpensive) cuvees. I was
also given an opportunity to retaste the red cuvee Mailloles from vintages 20042007, but my new notes were
sufficiently consistent with those I published in issue 183 the 2007 and 2005 bottlings proving the most successful I
have tasted in this series that I did not think they merited publishing as part of the present report. Tasting a 2001
only served to pointup the limitations of longerterm aging for this cuvee, its notes of game awkwardly dominate
and its finish is drying as well as alcoholically warm; while bottles of 1999 and 1998 were definitely overthehill. A
Christopher Cannan Europvin Selection (vario ), Bordeaux;
Red Wines France
30 Jun 2011
88/100
Beau millésime de rivesaltes avec une structure caressante, onctueuse, délicatement cacaotée. La finale pruneaux
est superbe.
28 Apr 2011
17/20
317
Red Wines France
Southwest
D
Chateau de Perron | Madiran
1998
UWS: 92/100
An intense aroma of leather and spice is followed by concentrated raspberry and dark cherry flavors, all backed by
powerful iron and mineral elements. Wellfocused, with plenty of fine, ripe tannins, this has the firm structure to
support its many elements. Drink now through 2006. KM
C
Chateau de Perron | Madiran
2001
UWS: 90/100
C
28 Apr 2011
Chateau de Vigouroux Haute Serre | Malbec Cahors Pigmentum
90/100
2010
UWS: 90/100
A ripe and luscious red, with rich flavors of dark cherry and dark chocolate that echo with plenty of spiciness.
Features a sculpted finish of cocoa powder and raspberry. Drink now through 2018. KM
C
15 Oct 2012
Chateau du Cedre | Cahors GC
90/100
2007
UWS: 90/100
The Verhaeghe brothers' 2007 is savory and black, the dark fruit thoroughly hunkered down in ferrous earth and
leather notes. Decant it to serve with braised beef cheeks or another rich, meaty dish.
01 Jun 2011
89/100
Très proche du Cèdre (en dégustation à l'aveugle), même plénitude et noblesse de caractère.
28 Apr 2011
17/20
Firm and meaty, offering an iron edge to the dried berry and red fruit flavors. Mocha notes mark the firm finish.
Drink now. 7,500 cases made. KM
C
Chateau Lamartine | Cahors
15 Oct 2010
87/100
2011
UWS: 90/100
There's a ripe plushness to the dried blackberry, fig and tobacco flavors that lengthen out on the spiceinfused
midpalate. Baker's chocolate, cream and vanilla notes power the finish. Malbec and Merlot. Drink now through
2019. KM
Wine Spectator © (WS), Kim Marcus 31 Aug 2014 90/100
C
Domaine Didier Barre Berthoumieu | Madiran Cuvee Charles de Batz
2001
UWS: 90/100
Intense aromas of roasted black fruits and freshly laid road tar are found in the nose of the darkcolored 2001
Madiran Cuvee Charles de Batz. Backward and foursquare, this powerful wine is packed with asphaltlike flavors
that are intermingled with blackberries. Loads of ripe tannin (and a slight hint of alcoholic warmth) surface in the
318
finish. Projected maturity: 20082015.
30 Jun 2005
87/100
Red Wines France
UWS: 90/100
Intense aromas of roasted black fruits and freshly laid road tar are found in the nose of the darkcolored 2001
Madiran Cuvee Charles de Batz. Backward and foursquare, this powerful wine is packed with asphaltlike flavors
that are intermingled with blackberries. Loads of ripe tannin (and a slight hint of alcoholic warmth) surface in the
finish. Projected maturity: 20082015.
30 Jun 2005
D
Guy Capmartin | Madiran Le Couvent
87/100
01 Jan 2004
17/20
1997
UWS: 90/100
G
01 Jan 2001
16/20
1998
UWS: 90/100
G
01 Jan 2001
16/20
2006
UWS: 90/100
L'élevage et sans doute l'oxygénation ont adouci le tanin et donné du pulpeux et du velouté à la texture mais le fort
caractère du tanin revient sans ménagement en fin de bouche rappeler les fondamentaux comme on dit en rugby !
Beau 2006.
28 Apr 2011
16/20
01 Jan 2009
16/20
319
Red Wines France
Vin de Pays
G
Chateau de Serame | Cabernet Sauvignon Vin de Pays d'Oc Réserve
2005
UWS: 91/100
Superbe affaire pour les grandes tablées de copains et mêmes les déjeuners plus sérieux (votre beaupère risque
d'adorer...), ce cabernet est sans lourdeur, aux tanins sans rusticité. Du plaisir et du petit prix signé par le négociant
Dourthe qui a relancé cette propriété depuis 2001.
C
01 Jan 2007
Chateau des Tours | Vin de Pays de Vaucluse
16,5/20
2007
UWS: 90/100
Une entrée de gamme qui détonne... Le nez est profond, dense, méridional, avec les fruits rouges cuits, la poudre de
chocolat noir et la cendre. Un velouté de tanins, un soyeux qui nous rappellent qu'Emmanuel Reynaud est un grand
vinificateur.
C
Chateau des Tours | Vin de Pays de Vaucluse
26 Jan 2012
16/20
2009
UWS: 90/100
(made from a blend of grenache, counoise, syrah, cinsault and merlot): Bright red. Intense, spiceaccented aromas
of raspberry and cherry pit, with a sexy floral quality gaining strength with air. Juicy and precise, with very good
energy and lift to its sweet red fruit flavors. The nervy finish shows very good cut and length.
C
Domaine Camp Galhan | Vin de Pays du Duché d'Uzés Les Pérassières
2007
UWS: 90/100
The terrific value 5050 SyrahGrenache blend 2007 Les Perassieres smells vividly of ripe strawberry and black
cherry, black walnut, fennel, and sea breeze. With impressive richness and a medicinal concentration of berries,
herbs, and iodine, it clings with oily intensity yet at the same time persistent berry freshness that keeps its long,
piquant finish bright and helps ameliorate a hint of alcoholic heat. Plan to enjoy it over at least the next three years.
Lionel Pourquier is a leading farmer of asparagus as well as the president of the local syndicate of Durham wheat
farmers (delivering at a premium price to Italian pastamakers), but somehow he finds time and passion to devote to
serious wine growing on cobbled, otherwise untillable acreage northwest of Nimes. A Connie and Patrick Allen
Selection, United Estates Wine Imports, Worthington, OH; tel. (614) 543 1427
D
Domaine Camp Galhan | Vin de Pays du Duché d'Uzés Les Pérassières
2009
UWS: 90/100
Full and sweet and round. Bloody.
D
Domaine de Saint Antoine | Vin de Pays du Gard Syrah
15 Sep 2011
16/20
2000
UWS: 90/100
This 2000 Syrah VDP du Gard is a sensational value. It offers notes of garrigue, smoke, licorice, and copious
quantities of black currant fruit. Ripe, withPublished
excellentbyopulence
as well as a long, chewy, pure, surprisingly intense
90pluswines.com
320
finish, it will drink well for 23 years.
Red Wines France
UWS: 90/100
This 2000 Syrah VDP du Gard is a sensational value. It offers notes of garrigue, smoke, licorice, and copious
quantities of black currant fruit. Ripe, with excellent opulence as well as a long, chewy, pure, surprisingly intense
finish, it will drink well for 23 years.
D
30 Jun 2001
90/100
2004
UWS: 90/100
Vinifié par la cave de Rasteau, ce domaine propose un vacqueyras à la robe limpide et soutenue, qui présente un nez
intéressant de petites baies, relevé de notes d'épices et de fruits secs. La bouche développe une grande puissance
aromatique, marquée par les épices. Ses tanins vifs mais ronds lui confèrent une grande harmonie. À attendre
quelques années pour en profiter pleinement.
D
01 Jan 2007
2/3
2006
UWS: 90/100
Autrefois propriété de religieux et rattaché au duché d'Uzès, le domaine couvre aujourd'hui 25 ha aux portes de la
Camargue. Cette syrah, vêtue de pourpre, décline de fins arômes de violette et de cassis mûr, puis développe sa
chair ample, ronde et longuement savoureuse. Une étoile revient au Merlot 2006.
D
01 Jan 2008
2/3
2007
UWS: 90/100
Un vin puissant, dense et charnu, aux arômes de fruits mûrs et aux tanins veloutés. La finale, marquée de notes de
réglisse et de violette, apporte une dimension élégante à cette syrah non filtrée. À déguster sur des paupiettes de
veau à la tomate.
D
Domaine des Cantarelles | Vin de Pays du Gard Cabernet Sauvignon/
Syrah
01 Jan 2009
2/3
2003
UWS: 90/100
Habituée du Guide, cette cuvée fait mouche une fois de plus en attirant l'oeil par sa robe profonde, cerise noire,
d'une limpidité parfaite. Bien que marqué par son récent élevage sous bois, le nez est déjà complexe, vanillé, grillé,
toasté et confit. L'équilibre est réussi, avec une attaque souple, où réglisse et fruits rouges lui confèrent légèreté et
longueur. Ce vin s'épanouira pleinement d'ici deux à quatre ans. Le Cantarelles blanc 2003 (3 à 5 €) a vu 20 % de la
vendange passer en fût neuf: la note de fumée persiste longuement. Sa souplesse, son équilibre, sa finale
harmonieuse le classent manifestement parmi les bons costières (une étoile). Présentée par la Compagnie
rhodanienne, la cuvée Cantarelles rouge 2003 (3 à 5 €) obtient également une étoile. Bien lire l'étiquette: les deux
premiers vins notent la mise en bouteilles au domaine, alors que celui de la Compagnie rhodanienne inscrit mise en
bouteille par Jean Berteau.
D
Domaine Lafage | Nicolas Vieilles Vignes
01 Jan 2005
2/3
2010
UWS: 90/100
Proprietor and winemaker JeanMarc Lafage has fashioned a knockout red wine that sells for a ridiculously low
price. Made from 100% Grenache aged six months on its lees in older barrels, the 2010 Cuvee Nicolas Vieilles
Vignes reveals serious glycerin along with a sexy, openknit, fruitforward style with oodles of raspberry, black
currant, cherry and kirsch liqueur characteristics.
Mediumbodied,
round, supple, heady and succulent, this is a big,
Published
by 90pluswines.com
321
lusty red for true hedonists. It is one of the finest 100% Grenache cuvees currently on the market at this price point
and quality level. Enjoy it over the next 23 years. Trust me. I have not lost my mind or my palate even though I have
Red Wines France
UWS: 90/100
Proprietor and winemaker JeanMarc Lafage has fashioned a knockout red wine that sells for a ridiculously low
price. Made from 100% Grenache aged six months on its lees in older barrels, the 2010 Cuvee Nicolas Vieilles
Vignes reveals serious glycerin along with a sexy, openknit, fruitforward style with oodles of raspberry, black
currant, cherry and kirsch liqueur characteristics. Mediumbodied, round, supple, heady and succulent, this is a big,
lusty red for true hedonists. It is one of the finest 100% Grenache cuvees currently on the market at this price point
and quality level. Enjoy it over the next 23 years. Trust me. I have not lost my mind or my palate even though I have
given a $12 wine (which often can be found for even less) a 92 point score!
D
30 Jun 2012
Domaine Lafage | Vin de Pays d'Oc Cote Sud
90/100
2005
UWS: 90/100
JeanMarc Lafage and his importer are rendering a huge service to consumers with several white cuvees that
represent outstanding values. Among his reds, Lafage has scored a mindboggling value with his Syrahbased (10%
each Grenache and Cabernet) 2005 Cote Sud. Intense aromas of plum paste, cherry, iodine and herbs lead into a
richlyfruited, deeply mineral, dynamic palate with layering and interplay of black chocolate, lavender, licorice,
cherry preserves, singed meat, salts and iodine. A wine this rich and complex and with a finish this long takes on an
aura of unreality when one sees the price! Even alongside introlevel wines as amazing as Lafage's, those of his
more expensive cuvees that I had occasion to taste (both from highaltitude vines in the south of Roussillon) do not
have to fear comparison, and should be capable of improving for several years.
D
31 Oct 2007
Domaine Saint Hilaire | Vin de Pays d'Oc
90/100
2008
UWS: 90/100
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot. Plums and sweet scent, almost like peonies. Spicy and rounded with appealing energy.
(TC)
D
Les Vignerons D'Estezargues | Vin de Pays du Gard Cuvée des Galets
26 Sep 2012
16/20
2008
UWS: 91/100
Black fruit, hint of medicinal and iodine, soft and generous fruit on the palate with good levels of concentration and
finesse. Very impressive for its modest price. GV. (RH)
Le
Pierre Gaillard | Syrah Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes
2010
UWS: 90/100
Nez fin et intense pour ce vin captivant qui ne manque pas de fond, avec des arômes de fruits rouges et des notes
épicées. En bouche l'équilibre est juste, il y a de la souplesse, de la rondeur et beaucoup de gourmandise. Les tanins
sont encore un peu présents, mais nobles et la longue finale est réglissée.
26 Jan 2012
16/20
100% Syrah. Bright crimson. Clean, clear fruity spectrum of aromas I'm not sure I would immediately identify it as
northern Rhône on the nose. Nice grunt and pepper but overall lots of sweet candy flavours too. Quite chewy end.
Pi
Yves Cuilleron | Syrah Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes
2009
UWS: 90/100
A silky red, with tangyedged plum, red currant and black tea notes backed by a long, finegrained, ironfilled finish.
There's good cut, thanks to the fine acidity. Drink now through 2012. JM
Published
by 90pluswines.com
322
Wine
Spectator © (WS), James Molesworth 31 Oct 2011 90/100
Red Wines France
UWS: 90/100
A silky red, with tangyedged plum, red currant and black tea notes backed by a long, finegrained, ironfilled finish.
There's good cut, thanks to the fine acidity. Drink now through 2012. JM
31 Oct 2011
90/100
323
Red Wines Greece
Other
Y
Boutari | Naoussa
2008
UWS: 90/100
This is textbook Naoussa: tart, tight and earthy with sweettart pomegranate and tomato paste notes. Ironhard
tannins and an extreme, lively acidity give it many more years to go. If you open it now, decant early and serve with
something rich, like a porcini risotto, no holds barred on the Parmigiano. Terlato Wines Intl., Lake Bluff, IL
The 2008 NAOUSSA, that is, a Xinomavro, is the latest iteration of a well priced bottling that I have come to rely
upon as one of the better red values in Greece, often available on the street for well under its list price. This year
seems like an exceptional vintage for this bottling, which makes it one of the better values recently. Its hallmark is
always refinement and balance. It is never a rustic Xinomavro, but at the same time it still preserves its essence and
characteristics and expresses its terroir well as time goes on. Caressing in texture, yet increasingly powerful as it
fleshes out in the glass to show good depth, it lingers on the palate and grips it. When the baby fat goes, which I
began to see with extended aeration, it will show increasing transparency and character, becoming earthier and
purer, more complex and transparent and become interesting as well as tasty. It shows the ability to change into
something more with age and it should age gracefully. It drank beautifully the next day, showing that promised
purity and transparency, seeming clean and unadorned. If you like Xinomavro—or Barbarescothis is a fine
overachiever that I liked more and more as it aired out. It is well worth seeking out. While approachable with some
air, it is pretty tight. Drink 20132025.
29 Feb 2012
91/100
Nicely combines light red fruits with savoury clove, dried herb, leather and orange zest elements. The palate has
mediumintensity acid, body and tannin. It's quite simple, but just delicious to drink, with its savoury leather, earth,
meatiness and floral and plum notes.
28 Jan 2012
88/100
324
Red Wines Israel
Galilee (Galil)
B
Daltôn | Zinfandel Galilee
2009
UWS: 91/100
D
Galil Mountain | Cabernet Sauvignon Galilee
28 Jan 2012
91/100
2005
UWS: 92/100
Very pure, moderate weight, slightly peppery and with very fresh acidity. Good length. (JH)
G
23 Oct 2007
Galil Mountain | Shiraz-Cabernet Galilee
16,5+/20
2004
UWS: 92/100
Plenty of oaky, smoky black fruit a cross between Rhône and the Barossa in style. Rich yet balanced by fresh
acidity. Maybe too soft for a long life? (JH)
23 Oct 2007
17/20
325
Red Wines Italy
Abruzzo (Abruzzi)
G
Azienda Vinicola Umani Ronchi | Montepulciano d'Abruzzo
2011
UWS: 90/100
Leafy, Cabernetstyle fruit but none of the tannin. Savoury, toned, gastronomic. Very fair at the price. GV (RH)
A
Cantine Talamonti | Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Modà
2008
UWS: 90/100
Ca
Citra | Montepulciano d'Abruzzo
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2006
UWS: 90/100
Ci
Fattoria Fattoria Bruno Nicodemi | Montepulciano d'Abruzzo
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2004
UWS: 90/100
Fa
Fattoria Fattoria la Valentina | Montepulciano d'Abruzzo
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2009
UWS: 90/100
Another screaming value, the 2009 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo punches well above its weight. Rich, deep and
expansive, the 2009 bursts from the glass with deep layers of fruit, all in a mediumbodied style that is hugely
appealing, especially considering its very friendly price point. Plums, blackberries and grilled herbs linger on the
finish in a wine that shows the darker, more brooding side of Montepulciano.
28 Feb 2013
89/100
Fa
Montipagano | Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Colline Teramane Costamorro
2005
UWS: 90/100
M
Torre Dei Beati | Montepulciano d'Abruzzo
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2009
UWS: 90/100
To
Valle Reale | Montepulciano d'Abruzzo
2006
326
Red Wines Italy
UWS: 95/100
V
Valle Reale | Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Cerasuolo
2006
UWS: 90/100
Valle Reale's 2006 Cerasuolo, also from Abruzzo, is made in a slightly riper style than the Nicodemi. It offers
nuanced aromatics and a richly expansive quality to its fruit, with notable depth in its expression and a racy,
immensely appealing personality. 90/Anticipated maturity: 2007.
V
31 Jul 2007
Villa Medoro | Montepulciano d'Abruzzo
90/100
2006
UWS: 91/100
The estate's 2006 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo is a dense, mouth filling red loaded with dark fruit, underbrush and
licorice. This fullbodied, rustic wine is best enjoyed on the young side, preferably at the dinner table with similarly
hearty fare. Anticipated maturity: 20092011. Villa Medoro is an excellent source for Montepulcianos that deliver
plenty of great drinking at all price points.
Vi
30 Apr 2009
87/100
2007
UWS: 90/100
Vi
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2008
UWS: 90/100
The 2008 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo comes across as rather hard, dry and unyielding, with less of the plumpness that
this bottling usually offers.
Vi
Viticoltori Caldaro | Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Yume
30 Jun 2010
86/100
2006
UWS: 90/100
A wine with its fair share of herbal notes and puppy breath, this is cool and earthy. There's plenty of fresh cherry
flavor to balance the fennel, juniper, tobacco and funk, all melding into a black satin texture as it takes on air. A
zesty red to serve with porky grilled sausages.
01 Jun 2011
90/100
327
Red Wines Italy
Basilicata
Vi
Casa d'angelo | Aglianico del Vulture
2009
UWS: 90/100
A suave version, offering gamy dark cherry and wild berry fruit, fine tannins and fresh acidity, with nuances of
incense, tobacco and wild herb gracing the finish. Drink now through 2018. NW
30 Sep 2013
90/100
Ca
Casa d'angelo | Aglianico del Vulture
2010
UWS: 90/100
Wellknit and balanced, with a savory side of grilled portobello, balsamic and dried herb notes meshed with flavors
of blackberry coulis, black licorice drop and espresso. Light tannins emerge on the finish. Drink now through 2020.
AN
30 Apr 2014
90/100
328
Red Wines Italy
Calabria
Ca
Azienda Vitivinicola Librandi | Cirò Duca San Felice Riserva
2005
UWS: 90/100
A bright cherry kiss of acidity lifts the savory rosemary and dried fruit flavors in this gaglioppo. It grows fresh with
air, becoming both floral and elegantly sweet. The gentle tannins would match an aged sheep's milk cheese.
01 Jun 2009
91/100
Riserva Duca San Felice is an important wine that sets the bar for Calabria's budding winemakers. Made with 100%
Gaglioppo, the wine is lean and compact with vibrant aromas of chilled raspberry, drying minerals and white
almond. Despite its lean appearance, it does deliver ample power and personality.
A
Azienda Vitivinicola Librandi | Cirò Duca Sanfelice Riserva
2005
UWS: 90/100
The 2005 Ciro Rosso Classico Riserva Duca San Felice (Gaglioppo) is an earthy, rustic wine that offers plenty of
brawn. Ideally it is best served alongside similarly hearty dishes. Anticipated maturity: 20092011. Librandi is a
good source for wines based on Calabria's unique, quirky varieties. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow,
Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 4450620
A
30 Apr 2009
86/100
2007
UWS: 92/100
Medium red. Reduced nose currently shows more dried herbs than fruit, which is typical of gaglioppo. Not a hugely
fleshy wine but boasts an understated density and good energy in the mouth, gaining sweetness with extended
aeration. The red fruit flavors (strawberry, raspberry) become almost creamy on the clean, mediumlong finish. In
contrast to the 2008, which is more perfumed and fruity, this vintage better shows off the typical characteristics of
the gaglioppo grape.
A
2008
UWS: 91/100
Dark red. Vibrant aromas of red fruits, licorice and minerals. Supple and much sweeter than usual, with brisk
acidity framing the ripe red fruit and licorice flavors. For such a fresh wine, this boasts impressive creamy texture
and breadth. Finishes with good balance, lift and length. This is the fruitiest Duca San Felice I ever recall tasting,
something not altogether easy to achieve with the gaglioppo grape, which could best be defined as yielding wines
that are generally fruitchallenged. I felt there might be a hint of residual sugar here adding to the impression of
creaminess, but the wine finishes dry.
The 2008 Ciro Rosso Riserva Duca San Felice is very pretty in this vintage. Dark wild cherries, herbs, spices and
licorice are just some of the nuances that flow from this midweight red. The Duca San Felice is made from
Gaglioppo, an indigenous grape that continues to impress for its unique personality. Anticipated maturity: 2010
2013. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 4450620
eRobertParker.com
©
Published
by 90pluswines.com
(WA), Antonio Galloni 31 Aug 2010 89/100
329
Dark red. Vibrant aromas of red fruits, licorice and minerals. Supple and much sweeter than usual, with brisk
acidity framing the ripe red fruit and licorice flavors. For such a fresh wine, this boasts impressive creamy texture
and breadth. Finishes with good balance, lift and length. This is the fruitiest Duca San Felice I ever recall tasting,
something not altogether easy to achieve with the gaglioppo grape, which could best be defined as yielding wines
that are generally fruitchallenged. I felt there might be a hint of residual sugar here adding to the impression of
creaminess, but the wine finishes dry.
Red Wines Italy
The 2008 Ciro Rosso Riserva Duca San Felice is very pretty in this vintage. Dark wild cherries, herbs, spices and
licorice are just some of the nuances that flow from this midweight red. The Duca San Felice is made from
Gaglioppo, an indigenous grape that continues to impress for its unique personality. Anticipated maturity: 2010
2013. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 4450620
A
Fattoria San Francesco | Cirò Classico
2008
UWS: 90/100
330
Red Wines Italy
Campania
Fa
Cantina del Taburno | Aglianico Taburno Fidelis
2001
UWS: 90/100
Ca
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2004
UWS: 90/100
Ca
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2006
UWS: 90/100
Saturated redruby. Fruity aromas of strawberry, raspberry and minerals. Sweet and fruitdriven, but with sneaky
concentration to the serious, concentrated flavors similar to the aromas. The moderately long finish features smooth
but mounting tannins. A very good food wine. (A Marc de Grazia Selection; importers include Michael Skurnik
Wines, Syosset, NY and Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael, CA)
The 2006 Aglianico del Taburno Fidelis is an excellent choice for readers who want to explore the qualities of
Aglianico, one of southern Italy's great red varieties. This forward, soft red offers up sweet cherries, smoke, herbs,
spices and cured meats in an approachable style, with plenty of varietal character and tons of personality. It is a
fabulous effort from Cantina del Taburno, as well as a terrific value.
Ca
90/100
30 Jun 2010
2007
UWS: 90/100
The 2007 Aglianico del Taburno Fidelis flows across the palate with layers of dark fruit, spices, leather and licorice.
It is a surprisingly seamless, round Aglianico (in relative terms) that offers gorgeous balance and plenty of harmony
at its level. Varietal typicity takes a little bit of a backseat here, but that is not necessarily a bad thing for a wine that
can serve as an entry point for readers who aren't yet familiar with Aglianico.
Ca
90/100
30 Jun 2011
2008
UWS: 91/100
Bright ruby. Firm and evolved with lovely pure, unadorned fruit. Very straightforward showcase for this great grape
variety. VGV
Ca
04 Sep 2012
Mastroberardino | Taurasi
16,5/20
2008
UWS: 90/100
This is a very correct and straightforward Aglianico that delivers all the basic promises of the variety. There's
firmness and deep structure here, but the wine is also flush with chewy fruit, tobacco, leather and dusty mineral
tones on the close.
331
01 Jun 2011
88/100
Red Wines Italy
UWS: 90/100
This is a very correct and straightforward Aglianico that delivers all the basic promises of the variety. There's
firmness and deep structure here, but the wine is also flush with chewy fruit, tobacco, leather and dusty mineral
tones on the close.
01 Jun 2011
88/100
Full redruby. Very fruity, sexy aromas of redcurrant, spice cake, licorice and minerals. In a distinctly fruity,
easygoing style, with juicy acidity intensifying its red berry and mineral flavors. Boasts very good flesh and
sweetness and spreads out nicely on the lingering finish. A lot of wine here for the money.
The 2008 Aglianico emerges from the glass with lovely inner sweetness. Juicy super ripe cherries, earthiness, dried
herbs and tobacco come together in a dark, sensual wine that fully captures the pedigree of this great southern
variety. Readers who want to discover the essence of Aglianico without spending a fortune may want to start here.
Anticipated maturity: 20102013. Mastroberardino is one of the historically significant names in Italian wine.
These entrylevel selections offer plenty of insight into the unique qualities of Campania's myriad indigenous red and
white grape varieties. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 4450620
M
Tenuta delle Terre Nere | Etna Red
2009
UWS: 90/100
The 2009 Etna Rosso is a pretty if somewhat fragile wine laced with dried herbs, crushed flowers, tobacco and sweet
red berries. The aromas and flavors are already a touch forward, suggesting the Rosso is best enjoyed sooner rather
than later.
Te
30 Jun 2011
Vesevo | Aglianico Beneventano
89/100
2009
UWS: 90/100
This wine?s purple?black color seems a visual expression of the anise?black scent and the violet perfume. It?s dense
and spicy in the middle, with a green capsicum edge to the peppery tannin. Youthfully floral and intriguing, this is a
match for spicy braised lamb. Vin Divino, Chicago, IL
01 Jun 2012
90/100
The 2009 Aglianico Beneventano is a pretty, plush wine laced with berries, spices and sweet red fruit. This isn't the
last word in complexity or varietal expression, but it is an elegant silky wine that clearly over delivers in its price
range.
V
30 Jun 2011
Villa Raiano | Taurasi
89/100
2002
UWS: 90/100
Vi
Villa Raiano | Taurasi
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2008
UWS: 90/100
A spicy, fullbodied red, offering dark, piney wild berry and plum skin fruit wrapped in a cloak of firm tannins, with
hints of ash and underbrush fighting through the finish. Needs time in the cellar. Best from 2015 through 2025.
NW
332
UWS: 90/100
A spicy, fullbodied red, offering dark, piney wild berry and plum skin fruit wrapped in a cloak of firm tannins, with
hints of ash and underbrush fighting through the finish. Needs time in the cellar. Best from 2015 through 2025.
NW
Red Wines Italy
333
Red Wines Italy
Emilia-Romagna
Vi
Fattoria Fattoria Zerbina | Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore Torre di
Ceparano
2004
UWS: 90/100
Fa
Fattoria Fattoria Zerbina | Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore Torre di
Ceparano
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2005
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
The 2005 Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore Torre di Ceparano is dropdead gorgeous. Sweet menthol, violets,
minerals and dark cherries lead to a core of impressively concentrated fruit. Despite its volume, this remains a
mediumbodied, graceful wine that walks a tightrope between richness and elegance. The tannins build mightily on
the finish, suggesting another year or two in bottle will be highly beneficial. This is a hugely impressive wine from
proprietor Cristina Geminiani.
This Sangiovese Superiore from the EmiliaRomagna region of Central Italy offers sophisticated aromas of sweet
spice, cinnamon and loads of cherry fruit. The wine is dense, rich and very succulent with rich fruit flavors and
polished tannins.
01 Sep 2009
88/100
Full, fresh red. Spicy red cherry, dried herbs and flowers on the rather perfumed nose. Then juicy, suave and
refined, with a classically firm sangiovese structure supporting the sappy strawberry and licorice flavors. Finishes
with a fine dusting of tannins and a lingering floral note. From massale and clonal selections planted in the mid
1980s and trained with the alberello system that allows for only manual harvesting.
01 Jul 2009
90/100
334
Red Wines Italy
Fa
Azienda Agricola Girolamo Dorigo | Cabernet Franc Colli Orientali del
Friuli Vigneto Montsclapade
2001
UWS: 90/100
A mediumbodied red, with earthy, ripe black fruit aromas and flavors. Easygoing on the palate, with clean fruit and
vanilla on the finish. Drink now. 800 cases made.
A
28 Apr 2011
Azienda Agricola Girolamo Dorigo | Cabernet Franc Colli Orientali del
Friuli Vigneto Montsclapade
84/100
2003
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
335
Red Wines Italy
Lombardia (Lombardy)
A
Provenza | Garda Classico Negresco
2004
UWS: 90/100
Pr
Tenuta Mazzolino | Oltrepò Pavese
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2007
UWS: 90/100
336
Red Wines Italy
Marche (Marches)
Te
Alessandro Moroder | Rosso Conero
2005
UWS: 90/100
Al
Azienda Agricola Saladini Pilastri | Indicazione Geografica Tipica (Marche)
Pregio del Conte
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2006
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
The 2006 Pregio del Conte is Montepulciano and Aglianico aged in a combination of French oak. It is the ripest of
these offerings. Sweet, open aromatics lead to a softtextured expression of superripe dark red fruits spices and
toasted oak. Made in a voluptuous lateharvest style, this wine offers excellent length if not quite the balance of the
estate's finest wines. Anticipated maturity: 20082010. I was very impressed with Saladini Pilastri, particularly
considering that last year the wines were all over the place in terms of quality. The Marche remains one of the least
known regions in Italy, so readers can drink all the way up to the top bottlings here while spending less than $25 a
bottle.
A
Pregio del Conte
2008
UWS: 90/100
The 2008 Pregio del Conte, a blend of Montepulciano and Aglianico, is an interesting wine. Red cherries, licorice,
roses and sweet spices are some of the notes that emerge from this round, harmonious offering. Today it comes
across as somewhat monolithic, with limited complexity. Still, there is more than enough depth and nuance to make
me think it will continue to drink well for a number of years once the firm tannins soften a touch. Ultimately, these
are relatively small critiques at this price point. Anticipated maturity: 20122020. Saladini Pilastri makes a wide
range of wines, but readers are best served focusing on the reds. Incredibly, all of those wines can be had for under
$25 a bottle.
A
Pregio del Conte
30 Jun 2010
89/100
2010
UWS: 90/100
An unusual blend of 50% Montepulciano and 50% Aglianico, the 2010 Pregio del Conte is also the sweetest and
richest of these 2010s from Saladini Pilastri. Blackberry jam, crushed rocks, grilled herbs, spices and leather flow
from a largescaled, opulent wine frame. The 2010 should hit the early part of its drinking window over the next year
and continue to drink well for the better part of this decade.
A
Azienda Agricola Saladini Pilastri | Rosso Piceno Superiore Vigna
Montetinello
28 Feb 2013
90/100
2006
337
Red Wines Italy
UWS: 90/100
The 2006 Rosso Piceno Superiore Vigna Montetinello (70% Montepulciano 30%, Sangiovese) reveals a more
brooding profile than the Piediprato with notes of earthiness, iron, tobacco, menthol and dark cherries. It is a
powerful, structured wine with firm tannins that need some air to soften. This harmonious, beautiful red was aged in
cask, which gives it a very classic feel. Anticipated maturity 20082016. I was very impressed with Saladini
Pilastri, particularly considering that last year the wines were all over the place in terms of quality. The Marche
remains one of the leastknown regions in Italy, so readers can drink all the way up to the top bottlings here while
spending less than $25 a bottle.
A
Azienda Agricola Saladini Pilastri | Rosso Piceno Vigna Piediprato
2003
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
Even better than the 2004 is the 2003 Rosso Piceno Vigna Piediprato. An equal part blend of Montepulciano and
Sangiovese aged 18 months in large French and Slovenian foudres, it boasts a big, sweet nose of black cherries,
roasted herbs, meat, and damp earth. This attractive, spicy wine borders on being rustic, resulting in a fleshy,
country Italian red with undeniable character as well as flavor depth.
A
Azienda Agricola Saladini Pilastri | Rosso Piceno Vigna Piediprato
2006
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
The estate's 2006 Rosso Piceno Piediprato (50% Sangiovese, 50% Montepulciano) reveals a layered expression of
perfumed red fruits in a mediumbodied finessed style with notable juiciness and lovely overall balance. The
Piediprato is aged in a combination of large casks although a small amount of mediumsized 5 hectoliter barrels are
used as well. Anticipated maturity: 20092012. Saladini Pilastri makes some of the most delicious, valuepriced
wines in Italy. Most of the estate's current releases were reviewed in Issue 178.
A
30 Apr 2009
Azienda Vinicola Umani Ronchi | Rosso Conero Serrano
89/100
2008
UWS: 90/100
A
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2009
UWS: 90/100
A
2010
UWS: 90/100
A
Cantina Colli Ripani | Rosso Piceno Castellano
2003
338
Red Wines Italy
UWS: 90/100
Ca
Fattoria Laila | Rosso Piceno
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2009
UWS: 90/100
Fa
Terre Cortesi Moncaro | Rosso Conero Cimerio Riserva
2005
UWS: 90/100
Te
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2006
UWS: 90/100
Te
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2008
UWS: 90/100
Te
Terre Cortesi Moncaro | Rosso Piceno Superiore Roccaviva
2003
UWS: 90/100
Has lots of oak, with flowers and red licorice. Medium to fullbodied, this is tasty, tight and spicy, with fine, well
placed tannins. Juicy. Best after 2007. 3,000 cases made. JS
Te
Terre Cortesi Moncaro | Rosso Piceno Superiore Roccaviva
29 Feb 2008
90/100
2009
UWS: 90/100
339
Red Wines Italy
Molise
Te
Di Majo Norante | Biferno Ramitello
2010
UWS: 90/100
The 2010 Biferno Rosso Ramitello, a 80% Montepulciano/20% Aglianico blend, is highly distinctive. Dark red
cherries, herbs licorice and tobacco flesh out in the glass. The Ramitello is huge, opulent and rich, with firm yet well
integrated tannins that provide a backbone to support the fruit. This is another fabulous value from Di Majo
Norante.
Di
28 Feb 2013
Di Majo Norante | Molise Contado
90/100
1998
UWS: 90/100
Di
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2003
UWS: 92/100
28 Jan 2012
91/100
Indigenous grape varietals are playing more important roles in the world's wines (despite the falsehoods promoted
in the disingenuous movie, Mondovino), and the 2003 Aglianico Contado IGT is fashioned from 100% Aglianico that
has been reclaimed by Riccardo Cotarella. It is a stunning Italian red. Notes of crushed rocks, acacia flowers,
almond paste, blackberries, and currants jump from the glass of this opaque ruby/purplecolored offering. Boasting
fabulous intensity, medium to full body, beautiful purity, and nicely integrated acidity, wood, and tannin, it was aged
in both large neutral oak ovals and smaller barrels. This wine represents incredible value for the money. A
Leonardo LoCascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 4450620; fax (201) 4459868.
Di
30 Jun 2006
91/100
2004
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
I doubt readers will find a more budgetfriendly Aglianico than Di Majo Norante's 2004 Aglianico del Molise
Contado. This wonferfully nuanced wine reveals terrific intensity and energy on the palate, with plenty of fruit,
cocoa and roasted coffee bean flavors that flow from the glass. At once fullyflavored, yet delicate, it is an
exceptional effort at this level. Anticipated maturity: 20072011.
eRobertParker.com © (WA), Antonio Galloni 31 May 2008 90/100
Di
2007
UWS: 92/100
The 2007 Aglianico Contado is a big, generous wine that flows from the glass with tons of ripe fruit. Medium to full
in body, the Contado possesses outstanding definition and loads of class. This is another remarkable wine loaded
with character and personality. The flavor profile and powerful close offer a unique expression of Aglianico.
Anticipated maturity: 20102014. I can't think of too many estates that can match Di Majo Norante for sheer value.
A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 4450620
340
UWS: 92/100
Red Wines Italy
The 2007 Aglianico Contado is a big, generous wine that flows from the glass with tons of ripe fruit. Medium to full
in body, the Contado possesses outstanding definition and loads of class. This is another remarkable wine loaded
with character and personality. The flavor profile and powerful close offer a unique expression of Aglianico.
Anticipated maturity: 20102014. I can't think of too many estates that can match Di Majo Norante for sheer value.
A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 4450620
Di
2009
UWS: 93/100
The 2009 Aglianico del Molise Contado impresses for its density, balance and depth. Hints of smoke and tar add
complexity to the rich, powerful fruit.
Di
30 Jun 2011
91/100
2010
UWS: 91/100
The estate's 2010 Aglianico del Molise Contado is another wine loaded with personality. Scorched earth, tobacco,
incense and smoke are some of the many notes that wrap around a core of intense fruit. Dense, rich and powerful the
2010 should continue to drink well for a number of years. An authoritative finish rounds things out in style in this
powerful, striking Aglianico. Di Majo Norante's Aglianico has to be one of the very best values in Italian wine.
28 Feb 2013
91+/100
341
Red Wines Italy
Piemonte (Piedmont)
Di
Agostino Pavia & Figli | Barbera d'Asti Bricco Blina
2001
UWS: 92/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
Deep crimson. Mulberries and oak on the nose. Good balance. Attractive cocktail of fruit and acidity without
excessive oak.
A
Agostino Pavia & Figli | Barbera d'Asti Bricco Blina
2004
UWS: 90/100
A
Alfredo Prunotto | Barbera d'Alba
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2009
UWS: 90/100
Deep, full red. Rich, spicy nose suggests thoroughly ripe fruit. Round, fat and sweet, conveying an impression of
lower acidity than the 2010. Seamless and full barbera, finishing firm and persistent.
Al
Azienda Agricola di Taliano L.e R. Montaribaldi | Dolcetto d'Alba Vagnona
2007
UWS: 90/100
A
Azienda Agricola di Taliano L.e R. Montaribaldi | Dolcetto d'Alba Vagnona
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2009
UWS: 90/100
A
Ballarin (Luigi Viberti) | Dolcetto d'Alba
2001
UWS: 90/100
Ba
Cavalotto | Dolcetto d'Alba Vigna Scot
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2010
UWS: 90/100
Ca
Cavalotto | Freisa Langhe Bricco Boschis
2006
342
Red Wines Italy
UWS: 90/100
Opaque purpleruby. Initially closed nose brightens up with air to show a primary black cherry aroma nicely lifted
by a touch of violet. Creamy and soft, this has aboveaverage concentration and length for the variety. The juicy
finish features polished tannins and a saline kick.
The 2006 Langhe Freisa Bricco Boschis is a remarkably harmonious, generous wine that seems to speak more about
this blessed hillside Castiglione Falletto vineyard (also the source of the estate's top Barolo) than the Freisa. The
estate's Freisa displays tons of richness and complexity, particularly at this level. Anticipated maturity: 20092012.
Year after year Cavallotto crafts some of the most delicious valuepriced wines in Piedmont. A Marc de Grazia
Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 7324200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset,
NY; (516) 6779300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 4929411, Giuliana Imports, Boulder CO; (303) 547
6343, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 4221119
Ca
Chionetti Quinto | Dolcetto di Dogliani Briccolero
2004
UWS: 91/100
Very distinctive, with ripe berry, wet earth and a hint of sousbois. Mediumbodied, with a fresh palate and intense
finish. Loads of character here. Drink now. 2,400 cases made. JS
C
28 Feb 2006
Conterno-Fantino | Barbera d'Alba Vignota
87/100
2006
UWS: 91/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
Deep redruby. Dark berries, black cherry, licorice, espresso and bitter chocolate on the youthfully reticent nose.
Superconcentrated, dense and sweet, boasting a chewy, layered texture for young barbera and captivating flavors of
crunchy dark berries, licorice and minerals. Bright acids leaven the wine's superb sweetness and extend the finish.
The dolcetto is done entirely in stainless steel but this barbera was aged for ten months in seconduse barriques
C
Conterno-Fantino | Langhe Rosso Nebbiolo Ginestrino
2006
UWS: 90/100
C
Domenico Clerico | Dolcetto d'Alba
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2003
UWS: 90/100
The 2003 Dolcetto d'Alba is not too shabby. On the contrary, it competes with the best in the appellation. Warm and
pure with sensations of cherries, chocolate, and almonds, its firm body and silky close should easily assure 34 more
years of good drinking. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik,
Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 6779300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 3346700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael,
CA; tel. (415) 4929411
eRobertParker.com © (WA), Daniel Thomases 31 Aug 2005 90/100
D
Domenico Clerico | Dolcetto delle Langhe Visadì
2008
343
Red Wines Italy
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
(aged entirely in barriques, 15% of them onceused) Bright ruby. Vibrant aromas of black cherry, blackberry,
licorice and violet. Juicy, spicy and tight, with strong acid cut and firm tannins keeping the wine's flesh under wraps
today. This classic dolcetto screams out for food.
Dark crimson. Heady and tastes purple but pretty sour and uncompromising actually! Tough for a Dolcetto!! Dry
fine tannins on the finish. Atypical.
D
08 Sep 2009
E. & Figli Pira (Chiara Boschis) | Dolcetto d'Alba
15,5/20
2007
UWS: 90/100
The 2007 Dolcetto d'Alba from proprietor Chiara Boschis is dark, earthy and powerful. This is an especially rich,
textured Dolcetto that should continue to drink nicely for at least another few years. Minerals, dark raspberries and
spices linger on the intense, pure finish. Anticipated maturity: 20092011.
E.
Elio Grasso | Dolcetto d'Alba Dei Grassi
2007
UWS: 90/100
El
F.lli Seghesio | Barbera d'Alba
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2007
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
Seghesio's 2007 Barbera d'Alba is a pretty, succulent offering that caresses the palate with waves of silky dark red
fruit, showing excellent balance and harmony.
F.l
30 Sep 2009
Ferdinando Principiano | Dolcetto d'Alba Santa Anna
89/100
2006
UWS: 90/100
Fe
Ferdinando Principiano | Dolcetto d'Alba Santa Anna
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2010
UWS: 90/100
Fe
Fontanafredda | Diano d'Alba La Lepre
2009
UWS: 90/100
344
Red Wines Italy
UWS: 90/100
Fo
Fontanafredda | Piemonte Barbera Briccotondo
2006
UWS: 90/100
Very plummy and grapey on the nose, with hints of chocolate. Fullbodied, soft and succulent, with lots of flavor and
a long, long finish. Delicious. Drink now. 50,000 cases made. JS
Barbera d'Alba. #2; COLORdark; NOSEreally nice dark cherry; chocolate covered cherries; steak juices; TASTE
nice and tannic, dark chocolate, clove component, raw cauliflower on the midpalate to the finish; rounded out w/
really SOUR cherries; well made; a little lighter than most Barbera's; a very friendly & value driven wine; good
firm tannins; pretty; rose pedal component on the finish; a serious wine; worth seeking; very young; put away for a
few years and you'll be ecstatic; WS90; GV89
Wine Lib TV © (WLTV) 08 Nov 2007 89/100
Fo
Fontanafredda | Piemonte Barbera Briccotondo
2007
UWS: 90/100
An impressive effort at this price point, the Briccotondo Barbera offers up an eclectic mix of herbs, scented soap,
yuzu and citrus fruit leading into a concentrated, multilayered palate. Long, cherryinfused finish. Drink now to
2011.
01 Feb 2010
89/100
Displays lovely plummy, chocolaty character. Full and silky smooth, this is packed with flavor. Drink now. 42,000
cases made. JS
Wine Spectator © (WS), James Suckling 15 Dec 2008 90/100
Fo
Fratelli Bera | Langhe Sassisto
2001
UWS: 90/100
Fr
Fratelli Oddero | Barbera d'Alba
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2004
UWS: 90/100
Fr
Fratelli Pecchenino | Dolcetto di Dogliani Siri d'Jermu
28 Apr 2011
2/3
1998
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
3/3
Super. Bright and fruity, with rich aromas of crushed berry and pepper. Mediumbodied, with soft tannins and a
velvety finish. Drink now. 2,600 cases made. JS
The 1998 Dolcetto Siri d'Jermu exhibits an opaque purple color, tangy acidity, and fine ripeness, but is tightly
wound, with medium body, and very good concentration.
345
Red Wines Italy
Fr
Giovanni (Renato Corino) Corino | Barbera d'Alba
2008
UWS: 90/100
Dark crimson. Very polished nose. Then exceptionally high acidity.
Gi
08 Sep 2009
Giovanni (Renato Corino) Corino | Barbera d'Alba
16/20
2009
UWS: 90/100
Mid concentrated ruby. Sweet raspberry and cherry nose. Very accessible, rich almost. Good acidity and in a very
modern mould. Very good length and intensity. Perhaps a little bit too rich for me. (WS)
Gi
04 Sep 2012
Giovanni Manzone | Dolcetto d'Alba La Serra
16/20
2001
UWS: 90/100
Fantastic, with an intense, complex nose, featuring ripe damson, Indian spice and gamy, meaty aromas. Medium to
fullbodied, fresh and fruity with velvety tannins and a chocolatetinged finish. Drink now. 950 cases made. JS
Gi
Giovanni Manzone | Dolcetto d'Alba La Serra
2007
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
Blueberry and blackberry aromas, with a hint of cream. Fullbodied, with lots of fruit and a velvety texture. A real
deal in Dolcetto. Drink now. 400 cases made. JS
Gi
La Meridiana | Barbera d'Asti Le Gagie
2009
UWS: 90/100
This red is rich, with pure floral, cherry and blackberry flavors accompanied by a hint of tobacco. Balanced and
bright, ending with moderate length, this shows terrific finesse. Drink now through 2015. BS
La
La Meridiana | Barbera d'Asti Vitis
2007
UWS: 90/100
La
Luciano Sandrone | Dolcetto d'Alba
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2004
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
28 Apr 2011
4/5
28 Apr 2011
2/3
by 90pluswines.com
346
Lighter and fresher than previous vintages,Published
with vibrant
black cherry, plum—even a hint of peach—fruit flavors,
backed by bright acids and some atypically hard tannins. Imported by Vintus LLC.
Red Wines Italy
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
28 Apr 2011
4/5
28 Apr 2011
2/3
Lighter and fresher than previous vintages, with vibrant black cherry, plum—even a hint of peach—fruit flavors,
backed by bright acids and some atypically hard tannins. Imported by Vintus LLC.
2004 Dolcetto d'Alba—Dark violet. Consistently one of the region's top wines, Sandrone's 2004 Dolcetto is an
updated interpretation of a classic. It offers varietal notes of dark blue/black fruit, spices, smoke, and licorice, with
good length, closing with a slightly bitter note on the finish. 89/drink 20052007, 11/05
Lu
89/100
31 Jan 2006
Marchesi di Barolo | Barbera del Monferrato Maràia
2011
UWS: 90/100
A dark, succulent red, exuding black cherry, blackberry and violet aromas and flavors. Pure and focused, with a
long aftertaste of sweet fruit, flowers and spice. Drink now through 2016. BS
M
Mario Marengo | Dolcetto d'Alba
2008
UWS: 90/100
Dense and grapey, with a dark chocolate undertone. Fullbodied, with loads of fruit and a long, fruity finish. Classy
and intense. Drink now. 1,700 cases made. JS
M
Mario Marengo | Dolcetto d'Alba
2009
UWS: 90/100
The 2009 Dolcetto d'Alba is incredibly delicious. Rich and generous, this ample, broadshouldered Dolcetto
impresses for the breadth and richness of its dark fruit. Varietal notes come through loud and clear, albeit it in a
bold, extroverted style.
eRobertParker.com © (WA), Antonio Galloni 31 Dec 2010 90/100
M
Matteo-Correggia | Roero
2007
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
The 2007 Roero (Nebbiolo) is a gorgeous, midweight wine redolent of crushed raspberries, flowers and spices. The
wine shows lovely inner perfume and a long, satisfying finish. This is a delicious, entrylevel red from Correggia.
Anticipated maturity: 20092012. These new releases from Correggia are impressive for their consistency,
drinkability and varietal trueness. Even better, a number of the wines are terrific values as well. A Marc de Grazia
31 Oct 2009
88/100
Heady. Light red. Roasted autumnal scents. Very firm and exciting on the nose. Not expensive! Really nice emissary
of Piemonte and autumn with great structure but quite approachable already. Lovely purity.
08 Sep 2009
16,5/20
347
wine shows lovely inner perfume and a long, satisfying finish. This is a delicious, entrylevel red from Correggia.
Anticipated maturity: 20092012. These new releases from Correggia are impressive for their consistency,
drinkability and varietal trueness. Even better, a number of the wines are terrific values as well. A Marc de Grazia
Red Wines Italy
88/100
31 Oct 2009
Heady. Light red. Roasted autumnal scents. Very firm and exciting on the nose. Not expensive! Really nice emissary
of Piemonte and autumn with great structure but quite approachable already. Lovely purity.
M
08 Sep 2009
Mauro Molino | Dolcetto d'Alba
16,5/20
2008
UWS: 90/100
M
Neive | Dolcetto d'Alba Basarin
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2005
UWS: 90/100
N
Pico Maccario | Barbera d'Asti Lavignone
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2011
UWS: 90/100
The 2011 Barbera d'Asti Lavignone is slightly darker and more focused than the Berro. Black cherries, plums,
flowers and spices all make an appearance in this delicious, approachable Barbera. A gentle hint of wet stones adds
minerality and salinity on the delineated, nuanced finish. The Lavignone is another solid wine for the money.
Pi
31 Oct 2012
Poderi Bertelli | Indicazione Geografica Tipica (Piedmont) Saint Marsan
Rosso
89/100
1994
UWS: 91/100
A beauty, with everythingan amazingly dark color, full body, velvety texture, black pepper, tar, spice, chocolate
and gamy flavors, and a long finish. (100 percent Syrah.) PM
Po
31 Oct 1996
Rosso
91/100
1995
UWS: 90/100
A beautiful Syrah, dark in color, thick in texture, polished in structure. Offers lovely cassis, black currant, wild
raspberry and various dried herb aromas and flavors. The oak doesn't stop the pure fruit from shining through.
Cleanses the palate, providing a long, succulent finish. Drink now through 2002. PM
Po
31 Oct 1997
Rosso
90/100
1998
UWS: 90/100
Po
Rosso
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2000
348
Red Wines Italy
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
The 2000 St. Marsan Rosso, is one of the few Italian Syrahs worth dealing with. One reason is the source of the
vineyard cuttings, Hermitage's Gerard Chave. A deep ruby with smoky blackberry and hung meat aromas, its
perceptible force and length, important, balanced extract, and firm structure promise substantial life. Anticipated
maturity: 20052016.
eRobertParker.com © (WA), Daniel Thomases
Po
31 Oct 2003
San Fereolo | Dolcetto di Dogliani Valdibà
91/100
2004
UWS: 90/100
Sa
Sottimano | Indicazione Geografica Tipica (Piedmont) Mate
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2011
UWS: 90/100
The 2011 Mate (Brachetto) emerges from the glass with sweet rose petals, spices and red berries. Still Brachetto
remains a rarity, but this gorgeous, perfumed wine boasts tons of class and pure harmony, all in a vinous, refreshing
style perfect for drinking over the next few years.
So
31 Oct 2012
Valfieri | Barbera d'Asti
90/100
2002
UWS: 90/100
V
Villa Sparina | Dolcetto d'Acqui D'Giusep
28 Apr 2011
2/3
1999
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
349
Red Wines Italy
Puglia (Apulia)
Vi
Apollonio | Copertino
1997
UWS: 90/100
From Italy comes this fresh red at a refreshing price, delivering pleasant, silky tannins, plum and cherry flavors and
a clean finish. Drink now. 10,000 cases made. JS
One of the most satisfying wines I have had in a long time. A blend of Negroamaro (80%) and four other red grapes
crafted by the brothers Apollonio in southern Italy. Deep red with aromas of ripe black cherries, nutmeg and
leather. An extraordinary wine that could probably sell in the $25 range.
A
2003
UWS: 90/100
A
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2004
UWS: 90/100
70% Negroamaro, 15% Montepulciano, 5% Malvasia Nera di Lecce, 5% Malvasia Nera di Brindisi, 5% Sangiovese.
Bright deep crimson. Looks younger than 2004. Attractive complex nose. They don't make Copertino very often. Very
sweet, velvety start. Good savoury finish.
A
Apollonio | Salice Salentino
05 Jun 2011
16/20
2004
UWS: 90/100
A
Azienda Tormaresca | Puglia
2010
UWS: 90/100
A
Azienda Tormaresca | Salento Rosso Primitivo Torcicoda
2001
UWS: 90/100
Antinori has made a rich, leathery, modern rendition of this Zinfandel kin. The bouquet is forward and round, with
deep black fruit, clove and earth. Roast meat, jerky and spice flavors dance with black plum and cherry on the
palate. Dark and long on the finish; chewy and fullbodied.
The 2001 Torcicoda, the first Primitivo to be released, is sweet and spicy on the nose, voluminous and firm on the
palate, and characteristically jammy and chocolatey in its overall impact. I would opt for drinking the wine over the
Published
by 90pluswines.com
350
next four or five years. Note: These wines are
sold under
the brand name Tormaresca in the American marketplace.
UWS: 90/100
Antinori has made a rich, leathery, modern rendition of this Zinfandel kin. The bouquet is forward and round, with
deep black fruit, clove and earth. Roast meat, jerky and spice flavors dance with black plum and cherry on the
palate. Dark and long on the finish; chewy and fullbodied.
Red Wines Italy
The 2001 Torcicoda, the first Primitivo to be released, is sweet and spicy on the nose, voluminous and firm on the
palate, and characteristically jammy and chocolatey in its overall impact. I would opt for drinking the wine over the
next four or five years. Note: These wines are sold under the brand name Tormaresca in the American marketplace.
This is very welldone. Loads of sandalwood and Christmas cake character here. Mediumbodied, with solid
licorice, blackberry and smoky oak character. Very long. Drink now. 7,165 cases made. JS
A
29 Feb 2004
Cantine Due Palme | Salice Salentino Selvarossa Riserva
88/100
1998
UWS: 90/100
Ca
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2001
UWS: 90/100
Ca
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2005
UWS: 92/100
Cantine due Palme's 2005 Salice Salentino Rosso Riserva Selvarossa (Negroamaro, Malvasia Nera) is a great
choice for readers who want to explore the wines of Puglia without breaking the bank. This is an opulent, soft
textured wine full of superripe dark fruit, sweet herbs, licorice and French oak. With a little less oak, some of the
varietal nuances of these indigenous varieties might come through and the sweetness might be better balanced. Still,
these are relatively small critiques for a wine in this price range. Anticipated maturity: 20092015.
Ca
30 Apr 2009
90/100
2006
UWS: 92/100
The 2006 Salice Salentino Riserva Selvarossa is Negroamaro and Malvasia Nera that spent nine months in French
oak barrels. This fat, opulent wine flows with generous dark fruit, sweet herbs and French oak. In 2006 the varietal
notes seem a touch overwhelmed by the oak, which is a shame as the fruit seems to have the depth and purity to
stand on its own. With air, some of the excess oakiness seems to blow off.
Ca
30 Jun 2010
Dr Cosimo Taurino | Salento Rosso Notarpanaro
89/100
2004
UWS: 90/100
Dr
Dr Cosimo Taurino | Salice Salentino Riserva
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2007
UWS: 90/100
351
Red Wines Italy
UWS: 90/100
Dr
La Corte | Primitivo Puglia Anfora
2005
UWS: 90/100
La
La Corte | Primitivo Puglia Anfora
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2006
UWS: 90/100
Ruby black. Spicy aromas of red berries, tobacco and mint benefit from a pretty mineral nuance that gives this wine
a more refined quality than the Solyss. Enters the mouth rich and smooth, with bright acids giving lift to the red
berry and mineral flavors. Pure, sharply focused and still youthfully unevolved, this is a more restrained style of
zinfandel but one with sneaky concentration.
La
01 Jul 2008
Palamà | Salice Salentino Albarossa
90/100
2007
UWS: 90/100
Pa
Santa Lucia | Castel del Monte Vigna del Melograno
2008
UWS: 90/100
Santa Lucia's Castel del Monte Vigna del Melograno is a consistently excellent value, as it is again in 2008. Layers
of jammy dark fruit flow effortlessly from this deeplycolored, opulent red. This offers fabulous character and
balance in its price range.
30 Jun 2011
88/100
100% Nero di Troia. Notably dark crimson bluer than most. Some charred element on the nose. Round and velvety
and very well made. Lustrous with a backbone and lots of fresh fruit. Very firm but with good freshness and fruit.
Nero di Troia as classedgrowth claret.
07 Jun 2011
17/20
Full ruby. Spicy aromas of blueberry, sage and nutmeg, plus a huge dollop of sexy vanillin oak. Enters bright and
fruity, showing plenty of violet, black fruit and vanilla flavor. This very sexy midweight is long on the aftertaste,
where a whiff of excess alcohol and chewy tannins really make their presence felt. Still, I found it hard to put the
glass down.
Sa
Tenuta Coppadoro | Indicazione Geografica Tipica (Puglia) Cotinone
2002
UWS: 90/100
Te
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2003
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
352
Red Wines Italy
Te
2005
UWS: 92/100
28 Apr 2011
3/3
Tenuta Coppadoro's 2005 Cotinone is a blend of equal parts Aglianico, Montepulciano and Cabernet Sauvignon
aged in French oak. It is a plump, powerful wine endowed with generous dark fruit, licorice, sweet toasted oak and
earthiness. It offers outstanding length, finessed tannins and a fresh, vibrant personality that leads to me to think it
will drink well to age 12 or so. Anticipated maturity: 20082017.
Te
90/100
29 Feb 2008
Torrevento | Castel del Monte
2002
UWS: 90/100
To
Torrevento | Castel del Monte Vigna Pedale Riserva
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2004
UWS: 91/100
Blackcurrant leaf, cherry, spice, smoky charcoal, burnt fruit and a touch of farmyard. Moderate tannins in good
balance, and a lengthy finish with dark plummy fruit. Textured and medium bodied yet intensely dark, like very
bitter chocolate. (RH)
To
20 Oct 2008
Torrevento | Castel del Monte Vigna Pedale Riserva
16,5/20
2005
UWS: 93/100
Not yet released, but has just been given tre bicchiere by Gambero Rosso, and you can immediately see why. The
purity of fruit bounds out of the glass like an excited puppy. Blackcurrant, mint, black cherry and liquorice on the
palate, with a fruit concentrate or syrupy quality. It is dry, smoky with hard tannins and a bitter cherry tone on the
finish, as well as a floral character above the dense fruit. Excellent. (RH)
20 Oct 2008
17+/20
353
Red Wines Italy
Sardegna (Sardinia)
To
Cantina Sociale di Santadi | Carignano del Sulcis Grotta Rossa
2005
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
The 2005 Grotta Rossa (100% Carginano) is another wine loaded with personality. Sweet dark fruit, leather and
mint emerge from this soft, supple offering. It possesses notable length and a sweet note of licorice that rounds out
the long finish. Anticipated matrity: 20072009.
Having totally botched a red wine from carignan while a winemaking student at Roseworthy, I am perhaps guilty of
underestimating its uncomplicated but flavoursome qualities. I now wish instead that I had made this dark, earthy,
rustic and even slightly meaty red, whose warm plum and berrylike fruit sits astride a powdery chassis of restrained
but genuine structure, and whose savoury finish is deliciously suggestive of sour cherries. Ripe and richly flavoured,
it's a terrific, honest and unpretentious quaff for now or over the next two years. oSardinia, $24 retail, approx.,
16.8/89, drink 20072010)
Jeremy Oliver © (JO) 14 Dec 2007 16,799999/20
Ca
Cantina Sociale di Santadi | Monica di Sardegna Antigua
2006
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
The estate's 2006 Antigua (85% Monica, 15% Carignano) reveals an engaging, exotic personality in it its aromatics
and ripe, dark fruit. This unique red, which is made from prephylloxera vines, offers stunning value at this level and
is not to be missed. Anticipated maturity: 20072009.
Ca
Cantine Argiolas | Cannonau di Sardegna Costera
2008
UWS: 90/100
Ca
Cantine Argiolas | Cannonau di Sardegna Costera
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2010
UWS: 90/100
Aromatic, with garrigue, spice box and smoke notes accenting the racy plum and wild berry fruit, remaining fresh
through the solid finish. Drink now. Tasted twice, with consistent notes. NW
15 Jun 2013
89/100
Another striking, entrylevel wine, the 2010 Isola dei Nuraghi Costera caresses the palate with juicy dark cherries,
plums, tobacco, spices and licorice. Elements of sweetness, inner perfume and pure silkiness distinguish the Costera
from the vast majority of its peers. A hint of sweet flowers and mint lingers on the finish.
Ca
28 Feb 2013
Cantine Argiolas | Monica di Sardegna Perdera
90/100
2008
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
354
Red Wines Italy
UWS: 90/100
Ca
Cantine Di Santa Maria La Palma | Cannonau di Sardegna Le Bombarde
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2006
UWS: 90/100
Ca
2007
UWS: 90/100
Ca
2008
UWS: 90/100
Ca
2009
UWS: 90/100
Ca
Sella e Mosca | Cannonau di Sardegna Riserva
2008
UWS: 90/100
This aromatic red opens with attractive notes of garrigue, brick dust and leather that follow through to a firm palate
of dried cherry and light fig flavors, supported by a fine minerally spine. Drink now. Tasted twice, with consistent
notes. NW
15 Jun 2013
88/100
A frankly ridiculous value, the 2008 Cannonau di Sardegna Riserva is gorgeous. Firm tannins frame a core of
expressive red cherries, tobacco, wild herbs and flowers. The 2008 impresses for its depth and sheer richness. It is a
magnificent wine from Sella e Mosca.
28 Feb 2013
91/100
355
Red Wines Italy
Sicilia (Sicily)
Se
Ajello | Nero d'Avola Sicilia Majus
2002
UWS: 90/100
Aj
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2003
UWS: 90/100
Aj
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2004
UWS: 90/100
Aj
Azienda Vinicola Benanti | Etna Rosso di Verzella
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2008
UWS: 92/100
Verzella is on the north side of Etna at 2,300 feet, where these nerello mascalese and cappuccio vines average 40
years of age. The wine is impressive for its detail, with varied layers of flavor coming in and out of focus at different
depths and perspectives. You might find strawberry, pomegranate, plum, herbs, stem spice and dried rose as you
taste this wine over course of several hours in a decanter. Serve it with meats roasted in a North African spice rub.
TradizioneImports, NY
A
01 Jun 2012
Baglio Del Sole | Indicazione Geografica Tipica (Sicilia) Nero d'Avola
92/100
2008
UWS: 90/100
Bright and clean red, with a dried cherry and dark chocolate character. Full and fruity, with velvety tannins and a
juicy finish. Drink now.
Ba
08 Jul 2011
Casa Vinicola Firriato | Nero d'Avola-Cabernet Sauvignon Sicilia Altavilla
della Corte
90/100
2000
UWS: 90/100
Ca
della Corte
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2001
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
356
Red Wines Italy
Ca
della Corte
2003
UWS: 90/100
Ca
della Corte
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2004
UWS: 90/100
Ca
della Corte
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2006
UWS: 90/100
Ca
della Corte
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2007
UWS: 90/100
Ca
Cottanera | Nerello Mascalese Sicilia Barbazzale
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2005
UWS: 90/100
C
Cusumano | Indicazione Geografica Tipica (Sicilia) Nero d'Avola
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2010
UWS: 90/100
70% Nero d'Avola, 30% Syrah. Why blend two deeply coloured varieties together? Very dark ruby with violet rim.
Violets and dark and dried fruits. Sweet, concentrated attack with brooding dark fruit and structuring acidity. Very
long, fragrant length. More is to come. (WS)
C
20 Apr 2012
Di Giovanna | Sicilia Gerbino
16,5/20
2005
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
Readers looking for a great valuepriced red from Sicily should check out Di Giovanna's 2005 Gerbino Rosso, a
blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot Nero d'Avola and Syrah that spends a few months in French oak. This
gorgeous wine offers layers of dark fruit, spices, sweet herbs, cassis and minerals in an elegant style. This is an
especially finessed, sleek red from Sicily. Anticipated maturity: 20082011. Di Giovanna is located on the western
side of Sicily. Brothers Klaus and Gunter Di Giovanna are the fifth generation to make wines at their family's estate.
Published
by 90pluswines.com
357
They are assisted by consulting oenologist Riccardo
Cotarella.
UWS: 90/100
Red Wines Italy
28 Apr 2011
2/3
Readers looking for a great valuepriced red from Sicily should check out Di Giovanna's 2005 Gerbino Rosso, a
blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot Nero d'Avola and Syrah that spends a few months in French oak. This
gorgeous wine offers layers of dark fruit, spices, sweet herbs, cassis and minerals in an elegant style. This is an
especially finessed, sleek red from Sicily. Anticipated maturity: 20082011. Di Giovanna is located on the western
side of Sicily. Brothers Klaus and Gunter Di Giovanna are the fifth generation to make wines at their family's estate.
They are assisted by consulting oenologist Riccardo Cotarella.
Di
Di Giovanna | Sicilia Gerbino
2010
UWS: 90/100
Di
Feudo Di Santa Tresa | Cerasuolo di Vittoria
2007
UWS: 90/100
Fe
20 Apr 2010
Feudo Di Santa Tresa | Nero d'Avola-Cabernet Sauvignon Sicilia Nìvuro
16/20
2007
UWS: 90/100
Fe
28 Apr 2011
20 Apr 2010
Feudo Principi di Butera | Indicazione Geografica Tipica (Sicilia) Nero
d'Avola
2/3
16,5/20
2009
UWS: 90/100
Fe
Gulfi | Nero d'Avola Sicilia Rossojbleo
2009
UWS: 90/100
G
Gulfi | Nero d'Avola Sicilia Rossojbleo
2010
UWS: 90/100
G
Morgante | Indicazione Geografica Tipica (Sicilia) Nero d'Avola
2006
UWS: 90/100
Deep purple colour, wildly spicy, black berry and Mediterranean herbscented very intriguing and inviting. Dry,
juicy, moderate tannins highly drinkable, with plenty of black licorice, dark fruit and herbal flavours. Lovely depth
and a super value.
28 Jan 2012
89/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
Aromas of crushed blackberry and asphalt persists in the mouth, with loads of fruit. A fullbodied, focused and
delicious red, with a great finish. Such purity of fruit. This is a real Nero. One of the best values in Italy. Drink now.
25,000 cases made. JS
358
UWS: 90/100
Deep purple colour, wildly spicy, black berry and Mediterranean herbscented very intriguing and inviting. Dry,
juicy, moderate tannins highly drinkable, with plenty of black licorice, dark fruit and herbal flavours. Lovely depth
and a super value.
Red Wines Italy
28 Jan 2012
89/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
Aromas of crushed blackberry and asphalt persists in the mouth, with loads of fruit. A fullbodied, focused and
delicious red, with a great finish. Such purity of fruit. This is a real Nero. One of the best values in Italy. Drink now.
Morgante's deeplycolored 2006 Nero d'Avola is an opulent wine packed with blackberry liqueur, cassis, minerals
and toasted oak. It offers notable persistence on the palate but shows a few rough edges that keep the score from
going higher. Still, this is a supremely enjoyable wine to drink now and over the next few years. Anticipated
maturity: 20082010. Morgante is an excellent source for topnotch wines from Sicily. A Leonardo Lo Cascio
Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 4450620
M
Morgante | Indicazione Geografica Tipica (Sicilia) Nero d'Avola
2010
UWS: 90/100
A balanced and refined red that delivers generous plum and blueberry character. Full and flavorful. Bright acidity
as well. Always great value. Drink now.
M
Planeta | Cerasuolo di Vittoria
2011
UWS: 90/100
Executed in an opulent and international style, the 2011 Chardonnay is a landmark Sicilian white. Starting with the
2012 vintage, it will carry the Sicilia DOC appellation. You feel the warm Sicilian sunshine in the thick texture of
the wine as well as the aromas of ripe peach, lemon drop candy and toasted almond. It offers a beautiful smoky
aftertaste with elegant touches of chopped herb, honey and sage. Drink 20152020. Diego Planeta, along with
Giacomo Rallo of Donnfugata and Lucio Tasca d'Almerita, is one of the three founding fathers of the Sicilian wine
renaissance sparked 10 to 15 years ago. Cousins Francesca, Santi and Alessio Planeta hold the reigns to the estate
today and have developed one of the most innovative and modern wine entities in Italy (they are among the most
liked wineries on Facebook). The Planeta family boasts a gifted hand in marketing and their hard work has only
helped to develop the Sicily brand within the many foreign markets they penetrate. Enormous credit goes to them.
Although Planeta's wines are always impressive, I was less enthused by this set of new releases. The entrylevel
products represent excellent value, but the top tier wines (including a wine I love very much, Santa Cecilia) are not
at their peak performance.
A fascinating character of spices and plums. Cinnamon and cumin. Full yet light and fruity. Fresh. Delicious. Drink
it. 60% Nero d'Avola and 40% Frappato.
Pl
Tasca d'Almerita | Indicazione Geografica Tipica (Sicilia) Cabernet
Sauvignon Regaleali
2009
UWS: 90/100
Dark blue and black fruit, tar, incense, tobacco and grilled herbs are supported by firm mountain tannins in the
2009 Cabernet Sauvignon. Today, the 2009 comes across as a bit rough around the edges, with less textural
elegance and polish of the very best wines in the range.
28 Feb 2013
91/100
Ta
Tasca d'Almerita | Indicazione Geografica Tipica (Sicilia) Lamuri
2010
359
Red Wines Italy
UWS: 90/100
Tasca's 2010 Nero d'Avola Lamuri is flatout gorgeous. Sweet floral and minty notes meld in a seamless core of
deep, expressive red fruit in this impeccable, totally gracious wine. In 2010 the Lamuri impresses for its overall
balance and pure class. This is one of the more refined, polished Nero d'Avolas readers will come across. It is also a
fabulous value.
91/100
28 Feb 2013
Mid violet ruby. Sweet and dark and fruit driven with a good dose of acidity and grainy tannin. A Nero d'Avola that
won't disappoint the folks. (WS)
Ta
20 Apr 2012
Tasca d'Almerita | Nero d'Avola-Cabernet Sauvignon Sicilia Cygnus
15,5/20
2008
UWS: 90/100
The 2008 Cygnus is 58% Nero d'Avola and 42% Cabernet Sauvignon that spent 14 months in French oak, 30% of
which was new. In general, I am far from a fan of Sicilian blends, but all of the elements come together beautifully
here. Layers of black fruit, mint, sweet herbs and licorice build nicely towards the intense, powerful finish. The
suppleness of the fruit makes this approachable today, but ideally the wine should really be cellared for at least a
few more years.
Ta
30 Jun 2011
Valle dell'Acate | Vittoria Frappato
90/100
2003
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
360
Red Wines Italy
Toscana (Tuscany)
V
Agricoltori del Chianti Geografico | Chianti Classico Contessa di Radda
2005
UWS: 92/100
A
Decanter © (DC)
28 Apr 2011
4/5
28 Apr 2011
2/3
Agricoltori del Chianti Geografico | Indicazione Geografica Tipica (Toscana)
Ferraiolo
2002
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
Ripe and raisiny with black pepper and berry character. Fullbodied, with chewy tannins and a long finish. Big wine
that needs some time. Slightly rustic. Best after 2004. 1,100 cases made. JS
A
31 Oct 2004
Agricoltori del Chianti Geografico | Toscana Pulleraia
89/100
2001
UWS: 90/100
The 2001 Pulleraia, a Merlot, is ripe and alcoholic on the nose, ample and deep in flavor, and with the
characteristic plush texture of the variety on the close. Drink: 20052012.
30 Apr 2004
89/100
Big and powerful, with lots of berry, black olive and mineral character. Fullbodied, with silky tannins and loads of
fruit, yet fresh and balanced. Superb. Merlot. Best after 2006. 650 cases made. JS
A
15 Oct 2003
Azienda Agraria Poggio Argentiera | Bolgheri Poggio ai Ginepri
90/100
2009
UWS: 90/100
There's a core of blackberry and black cherry, surrounded by stiff tannins and a vibrant structure, with fine length.
All the elements are here, needing time. Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot. Best from 2013 through 2017. BS
A
30 Sep 2011
Azienda Agricola Il Molino di Grace | Toscana Il Volano
89/100
2010
UWS: 90/100
Showing depth to the cherry, raspberry, licorice and spice flavors, this red is balanced and wellstructured, with a
lingering finish of fruit and spice. Sangiovese and Merlot. Drink now through 2018. BS
A
31 Oct 2013
Azienda Dievole | Broccato
90/100
2001
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
361
Red Wines Italy
UWS: 90/100
A
Badia a Coltibuono | Chianti Classico RS
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2008
UWS: 90/100
Sweet red cherries, flowers, licorice and tobacco are some of the notes that emerge from the 2008 Chianti Classico.
This is an attractive, lithe Chianti best suited to nearterm drinking. The understated finish adds to the wine's
polished personality.
Tight, linear, tonic and firm, this textbook Sangiovese opens a window on Chianti Classico tradition and territory.
It's an authentic wine on every level, from the purity of its aromas to its natural pairing ease with all sorts of meat
and pasta dishes.
01 Apr 2011
88/100
Fruity and straightforward, with plum and cedar character. Mediumbodied, fresh and juicy. Drink now. 11,665
cases made. JS
(a 90/10 blend of sangiovese and canaiolo nero; 12 months in large oak casks; 14% alcohol; from organically
grown grapes) Bright red. Highly floral nose of redcurrant, sour red cherry and minerals shows a light, vinous
quality. Then bright and mouthwatering on the palate, with a piercing laser beam of acidity lifting the delicate
pomegranate and redcurrant flavors. Finishes fresh and long, with youthfully chewy tannins and lingering red fruit
and violet notes. Typical fresh Chianti that's just begging for you to start eating.
01 Jul 2010
Ba
Bibi Graetz | Toscana Casamatta
89/100
24 Feb 2010
17/20
2011
UWS: 90/100
Notes of blackberry and black cherry are accented by tobacco and spice in this concentrated red, which is fresh and
lively, with a firm finish. Drink now through 2014. BS
Bi
Borgo Scopeto | Chianti Classico
15 Oct 2012
90/100
2010
UWS: 90/100
This is vibrant and energetic, with a base of finegrained tannins lifting the cherry, currant, rhubarb and tobacco
flavors. Taut and almost racy on the long finish. Best from 2015 through 2024. BS
28 Feb 2014
92/100
Dark ruby with the beginning of orange. Quite closed nose only hinting at black tea leaves and cherry. Succulent
fruit and big tannins on the palate, making it a little rustic, but nevertheless should please the crowds. (WS)
B
Canneto | Rosso di Montepulciano
2007
UWS: 90/100
Thanks to its thick, earthy characteristics and dark fruit aromas, this wine would make an excellent pairing partner
to Tandoori chicken or spicy Thai beef. It shows smoothness and richness on the long finish.
01 Apr 2011
90/100
362
Red Wines Italy
UWS: 90/100
Thanks to its thick, earthy characteristics and dark fruit aromas, this wine would make an excellent pairing partner
to Tandoori chicken or spicy Thai beef. It shows smoothness and richness on the long finish.
Ca
01 Apr 2011
Cantine Fattorie Moris | Morellino di Scansano
90/100
2011
UWS: 90/100
A beautiful red with dried cherries and plum character. Full and fruity with blackberries and spices. Fruity finish.
Drink now.
Ca
07 Sep 2012
Castello di (Marchesi Mazzei) Fonterutoli | Toscana Badiola
90/100
2008
UWS: 90/100
Ca
Castello di Bossi | Chianti Classico
2009
UWS: 90/100
This expands out of a tight, slightly pungent oak scent into meaty red fruit and lasting red pepper spice. That spice
adds a high tone to the supple richness of the flavor, setting it up for grilled sausages.
01 Apr 2014
90/100
A wine with hazelnut, chocolate and cherry character on the nose and palate. Medium to full body, with fine tannins
and a fresh finish. Grows on you! Drink now.
08 Oct 2012
91/100
The 2009 Chianti Classico, 100% Sangiovese, is a gorgeous, deep wine endowed with serious richness. Dark plums,
black cherries, licorice, new leather and menthol are some of the many notes that take shape in the glass. A firm,
structured finish rounds things out in style.
30 Jun 2012
90/100
Castelnuovo Berardenga. 100% Sangiovese. Quite dark with orange tinges. Cherry and plum with a pinch of oak,
but well dosed. Grippy tannin frames sweet fruit. Succulent finish. Popular but well made. (WS)
Ca
Castello di Bossi | Chianti Classico
20 Feb 2012
16/20
2010
UWS: 90/100
The 2010 Chianti Classico is an elegantly crafted wine with impeccably balanced tones of red cherry, spice, mild
coffee and leather that play off each other in an expertly choreographed dance. It's a young, firm wine that shows
great energy.
Black currant, herb and cedar notes lead off, while cherry and tobacco reveal more typical Chianti flavors. The
dusty tannins hold court on the finish. Drink now through 2020. BS
Quite dark and maturelooking ruby. Orange and cherry on the nose and the beginning of tobacco leaf. Quite
stubborn tannins and quite round and rich but there is freshness too. Already maturing, except for the tannins. (WS)
Ca
Castello di Brolio (Barone Ricasoli) | Sangiovese Toscana Formulae
2004
363
Red Wines Italy
UWS: 90/100
Ca
Castello di Gabbiano | Chianti
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2004
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
Ca
Castello di Monastero | Chianti Classico
28 Apr 2011
3/5
2006
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
Shows Indian spices and ripe berries on the nose. Opens up beautifully. Fullbodied, yet refined and very polished. A
long, lovely red. Best after 2010. 5,100 cases made. JS
Ca
Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona | Sant'Antimo Ateo
15 Oct 2009
91/100
2008
UWS: 90/100
The 2008 Ateo (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon) reveals gorgeous dark red fruit, herbs, cassis, cedar and sweet spices.
This is a fairly compact Ateo not surprising considering the vintage yet it shows plenty of concentration, depth
and sheer muscle. It is a terrific effort in this vintage.
Ci
Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona | Sant'Antimo Ateo
2010
UWS: 91/100
The 2010 Ateo, a Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon blend, is striking in this great vintage. Firm tannins support expressive
dark fruit, wild flowers, mint, sage and blackberries. Although a wine more of region than variety, the 2010
impresses for its vibrant, structured personality and impeccable class. A big, fullthrottle finish rounds things out in
style.
Ci
Collemassari | Montecucco Rigoleto
30 Jun 2013
91/100
2011
UWS: 90/100
Smoke and coffee aromas lead to flavors of black cherry and plum in this smooth, stylish red. Supple and polished,
with firm yet wellintegrated tannins and a lingering finish. Drink now through 2018. BS
C
Colognole | Chianti Rufina
28 Feb 2014
90/100
2007
UWS: 90/100
Bright red. Pretty aromas of violet, blackcurrant and red cherry. Vibrant and fruitdriven, with good vinosity and
grip to its red berry and mineral flavors. Has the fruit to support its acids and firm tannins, and finishes with a
persistent minerality.
01 Jul 2010
90/100
364
UWS: 90/100
Red Wines Italy
Bright red. Pretty aromas of violet, blackcurrant and red cherry. Vibrant and fruitdriven, with good vinosity and
grip to its red berry and mineral flavors. Has the fruit to support its acids and firm tannins, and finishes with a
persistent minerality.
C
01 Jul 2010
F.lli Tommasi | Maremma Toscana Poggio al Tufo Rompicollo
90/100
2011
UWS: 92/100
Presents a whiff of blackberry, bacon and ink, followed by dark berry, black pepper and spice notes. Rich and
supple, with ample structure for support and a long, fruit, spice and mineralfilled aftertaste. Sangiovese and
Cabernet Sauvignon. Best from 2015 through 2022. BS
F.l
30 Apr 2014
Fattoria di Magliano | Morellino di Scansano Heba
92/100
2007
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
Readers looking for a superb Tuscan red that won't break the bank will want to check out the estate's 2007
Morellino di Scansano Heba. This plump, juicy Morellino flows with generous floral red fruit framed by silky
tannins. The wine reveals tons of harmony and a long, finessed finish. Simply put, this is an impressive effort!
Anticipated maturity: 20092012. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia
Imports; tel. (417) 7324200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 6779300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA;
(415) 4929411, Giuliana Imports, Boulder CO; (303) 5476343, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422
1119
Fa
Fattoria di Petroio | Chianti Classico Riserva
1997
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
28 Sep 2011
3/5
28 Apr 2011
3/3
A silky and balanced Chianti Classico, with lovely mineral, blackberry and cherry aromas. Medium to fullbodied,
with fine tannins and a fresh finish. Needs a bit more fruit concentration to be outstanding. Drink now through 2005.
750 cases made. JS
31 Oct 2000
88/100
The 1997 Chianti Classico Riserva is tannic and austere. The dark ruby color is accompanied by a wine with good
volume, but it is dominated at present by tannin and wood. Give it 12 years of cellaring and drink it over the
following decade.
Fa
2000
UWS: 90/100
Fa
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2005
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
Focused and very clean, with blackberry, mineral and cigar box aromas and flavors. Fullbodied, with chewy
tannins and lots of fruit and character. Long and rich. Drink now. 835 cases made. JS
31 Oct 2008
90/100
365
Red Wines Italy
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
Focused and very clean, with blackberry, mineral and cigar box aromas and flavors. Fullbodied, with chewy
tannins and lots of fruit and character. Long and rich. Drink now. 835 cases made. JS
Fa
Fattoria di Renzo Masi Basciano | Chianti Riserva
31 Oct 2008
90/100
2009
UWS: 90/100
A mix of smoky tobacco, cherry, cedar, spice and bitter almond marks this complex, appealing and red. The light
grained tannins bolster the long finish. Developing nicely for now. Drink now through 2020. BS
30 Jun 2013
91/100
This is very raisiny in character with hints of treacle tart. Full body, with polished tannins. I would rate this
outstanding but the overripe character on the nose bothers me. Drink now.
Fa
Fattoria di Renzo Masi Basciano | Chianti Rufina
08 Oct 2012
88/100
2008
UWS: 90/100
Smoky and intensely fruity, with a light grilled meat undertone. Fullbodied and silky. Drink now. 1,500 cases made.
JS
Fa
Fattoria di Renzo Masi Basciano | Chianti Rufina
31 Oct 2010
90/100
2009
UWS: 90/100
Dark mulberry and black cherry notes are supported by wellintegrated oak in this dense red. Hints of licorice and
tobacco reveal more of its sense of place, and this finishes fresh and long. Best from 2013 through 2020. BS
Cask sample. Oenologist Paolo Masi. The estate is part of the Cantine Masi Renzo. While the Fattoria produces
around 150,000 bottles of Chianti Rufina per year, the Cantine produces in excess of 1,800,000 bottles.
Concentrated dark crimson. Dusty, but very appealing sweet concentrated red fruit nose with hints of spice and
cinnamon bark and rhubarb. Ongoing sweet fruit sensation with stalky, dusty tannin. Drying tannins on the finish. A
good commercial wine, but tannins demand food. (WS)
Fa
Fattoria Fattoria Ambra | Carmignano Barco Reale
2011
UWS: 90/100
(13.5% alcohol): Bright red. Fragrantly sweet, floral aromas of red berries and sweet spices. Fresh and clean in the
mouth, with mouthwatering, mineraldriven red fruit flavors. The youthfully chewy tannins are perhaps a tad drying,
but this is nonetheless one of the better young Barco Reales I've tried. Another year in the bottle may help it develop
more flesh and volume.
Fa
Fattoria Fattoria Castello Sonnino | Indicazione Geografica Tipica (Toscana)
San Leone
01 Jul 2012
90/100
2008
366
Red Wines Italy
UWS: 90/100
Fa
Fattoria Fattoria dei Barbi | Brusco dei Barbi
2008
UWS: 90/100
Fa
Fattoria Fattoria La Lecciaia | Montecucco Riserva
2004
UWS: 90/100
Blackberry, chocolate and mahogany aromas and flavors. Medium to fullbodied, with chewy tannins and a medium
finish. Drink now. JS
28 Apr 2011
88/100
Smokey layers of tar and asphalt open the nose of this dark and brooding Brunello Riserva. There are some candied
and dried fruit notes here but the overall bouquet is focused on complex tertiary aromas. What sets the wine apart
however is its texture: firm, drying and long lasting. Drink now or up to three years from now.
Fa
Fattoria Fattoria Ponte a Rondolino Teruzzi & Puthod | Indicazione
Geografica Tipica (Toscana) Vigna Peperino
01 Oct 2010
92/100
2007
UWS: 90/100
Fa
Fattoria Fattoria Ponte a Rondolino Teruzzi & Puthod | Indicazione
Geografica Tipica (Toscana) Vigna Peperino
2008
UWS: 90/100
A balanced and fruity red, with dried cherry and lemons on the nose and palate. Full and polished. Bright fruit.
Refined. Best Peprino in years. Best after 2012.
Fa
Fattoria Fattoria Viticcio | Chianti Classico Riserva Lucius
1999
UWS: 90/100
Gorgeous aromas of minerals, berries and fresh flowers. Fullbodied, with ultrafine tannins and a long, long finish.
All in finesse. Drink now through 2007. 1,600 cases made. JS
Fa
31 Oct 2002
90/100
2001
UWS: 91/100
Dark, with juicy blackberry and a hint of iodine character. Interesting, if a bit onedimensional. Best after 2006. 570
cases made. JS
31 Oct 2004
91/100
367
Red Wines Italy
UWS: 91/100
Dark, with juicy blackberry and a hint of iodine character. Interesting, if a bit onedimensional. Best after 2006. 570
cases made. JS
Fa
31 Oct 2004
91/100
2003
UWS: 91/100
Loads of blackberry and licorice character follow through to a fullbodied palate, with fine tannins and a long, long
finish. Lots going on. Drink now through 2012. 1,110 cases made. JS
Fa
31 Oct 2006
91/100
2008
UWS: 90/100
The rose and lavender perfume of sangiovese is at the center of this wine, darkened and enriched by the smooth
warmth of merlot and cabernet sauvignon. The Bordelais varieties pick up on the espresso scent of the oak, adding
to the quality if distancing the Tuscan character. Smooth and finely made.
01 Apr 2012
90/100
The 2008 Chianti Classico Riserva Lucius is a more internationally styled blend of 85% Sangiovese with Cabernet
Sauvignon and Merlot. The wine needs a bit of time in the glass for the fruit to emerge from a wall of tannin. Grilled
herbs, tobacco and leather add complexity to the fruit in this brooding, structured Riserva.
Fa
Fattoria Le Casalte | Rosso di Montepulciano
2008
UWS: 90/100
Fa
La Fortuna | Sant'Antimo
2004
UWS: 91/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
La Fortuna shows beautiful balance with pretty mineral nuances that stay delicately in the background of black fruit,
wild berries, new leather and licorice. The mouthfeel is bright and filled with lively fruit flavors with firm structure
and a long finish.
La
Le Macchiole | Bolgheri
01 Jun 2009
92/100
2003
UWS: 92/100
TOSCANA IGT. #1; Room Temperature; COLORnice; NOSEtremendous, exceptional, great floral aspect, rounded
cherries, strawberries surrounding a Vegetable garden w/ Ricola; TASTEabsolutely pinpoint professional wine; the
flavors are so beautiful; a gorgeous integration of cocoa bean mixed w/ dark chocolate syrup & beautiful herbal
action, wonderful sour cherry on the finish, this wine packs an enormous punch; it's explosive, beautiful & well
made; an absolute STEAL; acts like a $50 wine; AG90; GV92+
Le
Masi | Toscana Serègo Alighieri Bello Ovile
10 Jul 2007
92+/100
2006
UWS: 90/100
Black cherry on the nose, with dried flowers. Fullbodied, with beautiful, ripe fruit, soft tannins and a long, lightly
jammy finish. There's some fresh thyme as well.
Sangiovese,
Canaiolo and Ciliegiolo. Best from 2010 through 2014.
Published
by 90pluswines.com
368
Red Wines Italy
UWS: 90/100
Black cherry on the nose, with dried flowers. Fullbodied, with beautiful, ripe fruit, soft tannins and a long, lightly
jammy finish. There's some fresh thyme as well. Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Ciliegiolo. Best from 2010 through 2014.
M
Ormanni | Chianti Classico
31 Oct 2009
90/100
2009
UWS: 90/100
The 2009 Chianti Classico opens with rustic notes of wild berry and bramble. It feels tight and focused in the mouth
thanks to the acidity. Evolved aromas of licorice, crushed stone and Old Spice appear on the close.
Healthy mid ruby with orange tinges. Sweet, fine, leafy, earthy nose but not giving much away on the fruit side yet.
Quite fluid on the palate and highpitched vibrant acidity but fits the tight Sangiovese glove. Lots of grainy tannin.
Burgundian in style. Complete. (WS)
Or
Petra | Toscana Zingari
2009
UWS: 90/100
The 2009 Zingari is a fleshy, generous wine graced with expressive fruit. Sweet, floral notes add length and
brightness to the long, caressing finish. This shows great depth without coming across heavy, quite a rarity in
Bolgheri. The blend is equal parts Merlot, Sangiovese, Shiraz and Alicante, all aged in steel.
Pe
Podere Poggio Al Mulino | Toscana Pancarta
1997
UWS: 90/100
With an abundance of deep blackcherry, molasses and leather aromas, this is dynamite in terms of intensity and
concentration. In the mouth, it's smooth and stylish, with a tight blackfruit core and a suave finish. Built like a
house with a very dark interior; it'll be alive and kicking through 2008.
Fullbodied, with fascinating aromas of blackberry, black licorice and spices. Very chewy, with lots of tannins and a
long tobacco, ripe fruit and chocolate finish. Made by the same winemaker as Riecine. Not imported into the U.S.
Best after 2003. JS
Po
Poggio al Tesoro | Indicazione Geografica Tipica (Toscana) Mediterra
2010
UWS: 90/100
Dark and even slightly jammy, featuring blackberry, blueberry and black pepper, backed by solid grip. Chunky and
tight right now, but finishes sweet. Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Best from 2014 through 2022. BS
30 Sep 2012
90/100
The 2010 Mediterra emerges from the glass with espresso, mocha, blackberries and menthol, all supported by firm
yet polished tannins. This is a relatively cool, introspective vintage for the Mediterra, less immediate than is
typically the case. The 2010 impresses for its energy and length. Over the last few vintages, Mediterra has staked a
compelling claim as one of the best values in Maremma, and Tuscany, for that matter. Mediterra is 40% Syrah, 30%
Merlot and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon.
30 Jun 2012
90/100
369
Red Wines Italy
Po
Poggio San Polo | Rubio
2008
UWS: 90/100
Wow, what a beautiful wine and what an attractively low price. Rubio offers excellent value with deeply fruity tones
of cherry, blackberry and cassis. Spice, leather and tobacco fill in the back and the wine is smooth, generous and
silky.
01 Apr 2011
92/100
The 2008 Rubio shows lovely depth and richness in its sweet cherries, mint and flowers. This attractive, fresh red
possesses gorgeous balance and richness in what is shaping up as an uneven vintage in Montalcino. Anticipated
maturity: 20102013. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 4450620
Po
Rocca di Frassinello | Maremma Toscana Poggio alla Guardia
2010
UWS: 90/100
Bright and vibrant, exuding cherry, black currant, earth and spice flavors, with a long, juicy finish. Moderate
tannins provide support. Best from 2013 through 2020. BS
15 Oct 2012
88/100
Dried fruits with vanilla and cocoa on the nose and palate. Full to medium body, with velvety tannins and a
chocolate aftertaste. Drink now.
R
07 Sep 2012
Rocca di Frassinello | Maremma Toscana Poggio alla Guardia
92/100
2011
UWS: 90/100
Graphite and cherry aromas lead off, augmented by raspberry, mineral and cedar flavors. Structured and vibrant,
with a long, spicy aftertaste. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangioveto. Best from 2016 through 2028. BS
R
15 Oct 2013
Solaria | Rosso di Montalcino
90/100
2005
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
There's a pretty, buoyant or balsamic quality to this fresh Brunello that helps delivers its fruit and spice aromas in a
direct and immediate manner. That clean approach gives the wine a determined and lasting impression in the mouth.
Drink it with game meats or steak.
01 Oct 2010
90/100
Gentle and traditional in tone, this wine balances flavors of dried roses and dusty raspberries with a minty
character. The meaty tannins provide the length and structure to pair this with grilled pork chops.
So
Straccali | Chianti
01 Apr 2008
90/100
2010
UWS: 90/100
Aromas of strawberries and Indian spices follow through to a full body, with wellintegrated tannins and a chewy,
silky finish. A Chianti Classico that everyone will love for the money. Better in 2013.
James Suckling © (JS) 22 Aug 2012 90/100
370
Red Wines Italy
UWS: 90/100
Aromas of strawberries and Indian spices follow through to a full body, with wellintegrated tannins and a chewy,
silky finish. A Chianti Classico that everyone will love for the money. Better in 2013.
James Suckling © (JS) 22 Aug 2012 90/100
St
Tenimenti Luigi d'Alessandro | Cortona
2008
UWS: 90/100
The 2008 Cortona Syrah is a ridiculously good wine for the money. Rich dark fruit, violets, leather, licorice and
spices swirl around in the glass with a captivating personality. The tannins could use a touch more polish and I
suppose this could be more varietally expressive, but the absolute quality of what is in the glass is beyond reproach.
Anticipated maturity: 20102013. D'Alessandro, one of the historic estates in Tuscany, continues to make important
strides under the leadership of consultant Luca Currado.
Te
Tenuta di Bibbiano | Chianti Classico
2010
UWS: 90/100
Castellina. Hint of terracotta. More fruity and nuanced than the Calcinaia. Sappy with a light cast of oak. More self
controlled and composed than the Calcinaia as well. Long, and a touch drying on the end. (TC)
Te
Tenuta di Trecciano | Chianti Colli Senesi
2011
UWS: 90/100
A pretty, elegant red, whose juicy texture sets the stage for raspberry, black currant, violet and mineral flavors. Silky
and backed by solid, refined tannins. Best from 2013 through 2020. BS
Te
31 Oct 2012
Tenuta Friggiali | Rosso di Montalcino
90/100
2005
UWS: 90/100
Harmony and clean delivery of fruit on the nose and mouth mark this wine. You'll encounter layers of cherry,
blackberry, plum, cola and spice. There's a dusting of mineral as well and the tannins are silky but firm.
Te
01 Oct 2010
Tenuta San Leonardo | Chianti
90/100
2007
UWS: 90/100
Te
Torciano | Toscana Baldassarre
1999
UWS: 95/100
Decanter © (DC)
To
Valiano | Chianti Classico Poggio Teo
28 Sep 2011
4/5
2008
371
Red Wines Italy
UWS: 90/100
V
Vignamaggio | Chianti Classico Terre di Prenzano
2009
UWS: 90/100
Ripe and round, sporting licorice, plum and blackberry flavors. This is backed by a solid structure, including bright
acidity, yet it's accessible now. Drink now through 2014. BS
Vi
15 Oct 2011
Vignamaggio | Chianti Classico Terre di Prenzano
89/100
2010
UWS: 90/100
Pure, quite intense nose. Lots of savoury fruit here. So appetising! So long as you love Sangiovese. Real wine. GV
A lush and concentrated red, boasting cherry, raspberry ganache and tobacco flavors. Dusty tannins provide
support as this lingers on the spicetinged finish. Best from 2013 through 2020. BS
Vi
30 Sep 2012
Vigne e Vini Sensi | Indicazione Geografica Tipica (Toscana) Gramole
89/100
2001
UWS: 90/100
Gorgeous aromas of cherries, berries and light spices. Fullbodied, concentrated yet refined and silky. Very long.
Vi
31 Oct 2005
Vigne e Vini Sensi | Indicazione Geografica Tipica (Toscana) Mantello
90/100
2009
UWS: 90/100
Vi
Villa Petriolo | Toscana Golpaja
1999
UWS: 90/100
Vi
Villa Pillo | Indicazione Geografica Tipica (Toscana) Borgoforte
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2009
UWS: 90/100
Layered with cherry, raspberry, licorice and spice flavors, this red is backed by a solid structure, yet maintains an
elegant feel. Moderately long. Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Best from 2012 through 2018. BS
15 Oct 2011
89/100
372
Red Wines Italy
Vi
Villa Sant' Anna | Chianti Colli Senesi
2006
UWS: 90/100
The 2006 Chianti Colli Senesi is a beautiful wine with plenty of dusty Sangiovese cherry fruit, leather, licorice and
tobacco all wrapped together in a midweight, elegant frame. This is an absolutely beautiful, joyous Chianti from the
less wellknown Colli Senesi appellation. The traditional, somewhat firm style is probably best suited to the dinner
table, where this Chianti will deliver plenty of enjoyment for the money. Anticipated maturity: 20102016.
31 Oct 2010
90/100
373
Red Wines Italy
Vi
(San Michele Appiano) Saint Michael Eppan | Alto Adige Lagrein
2008
UWS: 90/100
An intense version of Lagrein, with firm tannins and a smoky mineral sublayer supporting the ripe black fruit,
espresso bean, iron, dried sage and fennel seed notes. Big and inky, but wellknit and integrated nonetheless, with a
fresh, chewy finish. Best from 2013 through 2020. AN
15 Oct 2011
92/100
The 2008 Lagrein is made in an upfront vinous style that showcases beautifully expressive dark berries, flowers and
spices. Some of the darker notes typical of Lagrein leather, earthiness and licorice add complexity, but this
remains a fairly delicate, midweight style of Lagrein best suited to nearterm drinking. It is a small jewel from San
Michele Appiano, as the winery is more commonly known in Italian. Anticipated maturity: 20102013.
(S
Azienda Sant' Elena | Merlot Venezia-Giulia
2006
UWS: 90/100
Intense and flavorful, with apple, honey and kiwi pie character. Full and layered, with loads of character.
Fascinating. Chardonnay, Traminer and Riesling. Drink now. 810 cases made. JS
28 Apr 2011
90/100
374
Red Wines Italy
Umbria
A
Agricola Goretti | Sagrantino di Montefalco Le Mura Saracene
2006
UWS: 90/100
Deep colour and modern, spicy, ripe and judiciously oaked plenty of complexity and interest on the nose. The
palate is still tough and densely packed with tannins this needs another 24 years to hit its stride, and will appeal to
Bordeaux fans at a decent price.
A
90/100
28 Jan 2012
Antonelli | Montefalco
2008
UWS: 91/100
Juicy acidity followed by a brusque, tannic finish. Tough, but intriguingly fragrant and savoury. Long finish. Very
gastronomic. (RH)
A
01 Feb 2012
Barbi | Lago di Corbara
16,5/20
2008
UWS: 90/100
Ba
Cantine Giorgio Lungarotti | Torgiano Rubesco
2009
UWS: 90/100
A delicious, valuepriced red, the 2009 Rubesco is laced with sweet cherries, tobacco, anise and leather. The aromas
and flavors build nicely in the glass as this radiant, polished wine shows off its considerable personality. This is a
terrific wine for the money.
Ca
28 Feb 2013
Falesco | Indicazione Geografica Tipica (Umbria) Vitiano
90/100
2005
UWS: 90/100
Fa
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2007
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
(an equal blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and sangiovese) Ridiculously dark blackruby color. Pretty aromas of
cassis, black plum and earth, with a pronounced vanilla presence that does not overpower the fruit. Rich and
densely packed, with distinctly ripe flavors of black fruits, raisin and chocolate lifted by an intriguing balsamic
vinegar note. This finishes lighter than it starts, with welcome acidity nicely delineating the borderlineoverripe
fruit. Finishes creamy and long. This is a lot of wine for the money, and the best Vitiano in years, far removed from
some astringent versions of recent memory.
01 Jul 2009
91/100
The 2007 Vitiano (Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon) is a softtextured, caressing red that blossoms on
the palate with layers of perfumed red fruit and sweet French oak. This is an especially seamless and beautiful
Vitiano that is particularly rewarding for itsPublished
textural by
richness.
Vitiano is typically bottled in several lots, all of which
90pluswines.com
375
undergo malolactic fermentation in French oak. This is the first lot (0922) to be bottled. According to proprietor
28 Apr 2011
2/3
(an equal blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and sangiovese) Ridiculously dark blackruby color. Pretty aromas of
cassis, black plum and earth, with a pronounced vanilla presence that does not overpower the fruit. Rich and
densely packed, with distinctly ripe flavors of black fruits, raisin and chocolate lifted by an intriguing balsamic
vinegar note. This finishes lighter than it starts, with welcome acidity nicely delineating the borderlineoverripe
fruit. Finishes creamy and long. This is a lot of wine for the money, and the best Vitiano in years, far removed from
some astringent versions of recent memory.
Red Wines Italy
01 Jul 2009
91/100
The 2007 Vitiano (Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon) is a softtextured, caressing red that blossoms on
the palate with layers of perfumed red fruit and sweet French oak. This is an especially seamless and beautiful
Vitiano that is particularly rewarding for its textural richness. Vitiano is typically bottled in several lots, all of which
undergo malolactic fermentation in French oak. This is the first lot (0922) to be bottled. According to proprietor
Riccardo Cotarella, the bottle variation that occasionally shows up in Vitiano is most likely attributable to the
different amounts of time the various lots spend in bottle prior to arriving on the market. Clearly lots that have more
time in bottle have the potential to show greater harmony than lots that have less time in bottle. That said, slight
bottle variation issues here are a minor quibble for a wine that delivers so much value. Anticipated maturity: 2009
2012. Riccardo Cotarella's numerous consulting engagements take him all over the world, but it is Falesco, his
estate in the rolling hills of Umbria, that he calls home. Falesco is a family affair, with Cotarella's brother Renzo,
and daughter Dominga involved in running the winery. The sprawling property covers 670 acres, 370 of which are
under vine. Quality is incredibly consistent when one considers that nearly 3 million bottles emerge from these
cellars each year. Never one to rest on his laurels, Cotarella has several new projects in the works. One of the most
intriguing of these is a Sagrantino he is making from three hectares of rented vineyards in Bevagna. The first
vintage, 2006, will be released later this year.
Fa
30 Apr 2009
89/100
2009
UWS: 90/100
The 2009 Vitiano Rosso is a big, superripe wine bursting with red cherries, earthiness and spices. This is a truly
beautiful Vitiano Rosso with tons of fruit and a racy, opulent personality. The fullthrottle style verges on over
ripeness and is on the edge of being over the top, but readers who enjoy this type of wine will find much to admire,
especially for what remains an exceedingly modest price.
Fa
La Carraia | Indicazione Geografica Tipica (Umbria) Sangiovese
1997
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
The real bargain from this estate is this wine, a 100% Sangiovese fermented in tank, aged in French barriques, and
bottled unfined and unfiltered. For $11, this wine is a knockout selection. Moreover, nearly 5,000 cases of this wine
are imported to the United States. My notes said, makes most American Sangiovese look pathetic. Deep ruby/purple
colored, with a fragrant nose of cherry liqueur, weedy tobacco, pain grille, and spice, this dense wine exhibits
plenty of Sangiovese's strawberry/cherry fruit, an opulent texture, low acidity, and fine purity. The wine's fleshiness
is almost atypical for Sangiovese, yet there is no sense of heaviness, and the acidity and tannin are sweet and ripe.
This is a hedonistic, gorgeous wine to consume over the next 34 years. A great value! A Leonardo Lo Cascio
Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 4450620
La
30 Jun 1998
La Carraia | Indicazione Geografica Tipica (Umbria) Sangiovese
89/100
2005
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
The 2005 Sangiovese is made from 100% Sangiovese (from a clone Cotarella believes is of the highest level of
quality, and similar to that used at his home estate, Falesco), aged three month in French oak, and bottled early to
preserve its fruit. Its dense ruby/purplehued color is accompanied by sweet black cherry and berry fruit, forest
floor, and spring flower characteristics. Good density, medium body, copious fruit, and a dry, fresh, lively, tangy
finish suggest it will drink well for 23 years. A Leonardo LoCascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201)
4450620; fax (201) 4459868.
30 Jun 2006
89/100
376
28 Apr 2011
2/3
The 2005 Sangiovese is made from 100% Sangiovese (from a clone Cotarella believes is of the highest level of
quality, and similar to that used at his home estate, Falesco), aged three month in French oak, and bottled early to
preserve its fruit. Its dense ruby/purplehued color is accompanied by sweet black cherry and berry fruit, forest
floor, and spring flower characteristics. Good density, medium body, copious fruit, and a dry, fresh, lively, tangy
finish suggest it will drink well for 23 years. A Leonardo LoCascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201)
4450620; fax (201) 4459868.
Red Wines Italy
La
30 Jun 2006
La Carraia | Indicazione Geografica Tipica (Umbria) Tizzonero
89/100
2002
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
The 2002 Tizzonero, a Montepulcianobased wine of intensity, length and tarry red fruit flavors is still a bit tannic
and needs a bit of bottle time. Drink: 20072014.
30 Apr 2006
88/100
The 2002 Tizzonero is a 100% Montepulciano aged six months in barrel prior to bottling. Its deep plum/ruby color is
followed by aromas of spice, earth, wood, black cherries, and currants. Mediumbodied with ripe tannin and a spicy
finish, it will drink well for 13 years. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 4450620
30 Jun 2004
87/100
Rich and powerful, with currant, berry and dark coffee. Fullbodied, chewy, with ripe tannins and a long finish. Big
wine. Needs bottle age to mellow. Best after 2006. 6,500 cases made. JS
La
2003
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
The dark ruby/purplecolored 2003 Tizzonero (100% Montepulciano aged in used French oak) offers up scents of
wild Provencal herbs, sweet berries, and hints of white chocolate, new saddle leather, and earth. Deep and full
bodied with supple tannins as well as decent acidity, this beauty should be consumed over the next 23 years. A
Leonardo LoCascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 4450620; fax (201) 4459868.
La
30 Jun 2006
89/100
2004
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
A beautiful effort from proprietor and winemaker Riccardo Cotarella, this 100% Montepulciano was aged in neutral
wood for six months. Its deep ruby/purple color is followed by sweet aromas of berry fruit, vanilla, and smoky
barbecuelike scents. With a luscious texture, ripe tannin, and mediumbodied, long finish, it will provide pleasure
La
2009
UWS: 90/100
The 2009 Tizzonero (Montepulciano) is more convincing then the Sangiovese. The dark fruit of Montepulciano
seems inherently better suited to Cotarella's approach in the vineyards and cellar. Licorice, smoke and underbrush
are some of the nuances that emerge from this fat, explosive red. The richness of the fruit carries through beautifully
to the deep, powerful finish.
La
Sportoletti | Assisi Rosso
30 Jun 2011
90/100
2007
377
Red Wines Italy
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
The 2007 Assisi Rosso offers up attractive bright red fruits intermingled with spices and scents of sweet toasted oak.
Although it is a tad leaner than the terrific 2006, the 2007 possesses notable elegance and finesse at this level.
Simply put, this is a delicious glass of wine. Anticipated maturity: 20082012. Sportoletti is best known for their top
of the line Villa Fidelia, but their entrylevel Assisi Rosso is no slouch either. In fact it remains one of the great
values in Italian wines today. Consulting oenologist Riccardo Cotarella fashions this cuvee from 50% Sangiovese,
30% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445
0620
378
Red Wines Italy
Veneto
Sp
Allegrini | Indicazione Geografica Tipica (Veneto) Palazzo della Torre
2006
UWS: 90/100
This is made from a small percentage of partially raisined grapes, like a sort of miniAmarone. The nose is clean
and inviting, with a nice mix and fresh and dried black berry flavours. The palate is essentially dry, balanced, stylish
and highly drinkable. Moderate plus finish. Really quite a decent drop.
28 Jan 2012
89/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
The 2006 Palazzo della Torre comes across as somewhat restrained for this wine. This is a very polished, elegant
Palazzo della Torre with pretty layers of mocha, spices and new leather that add complexity to the fresh, vibrant
fruit. Palazzo della Torre is 70% Corvina Veronese, 25% Rondinella and 5% Sangiovese. The addition of 30% dried
fruit (Amarone style) adds an extra dimension of complexity. The retro 1970's label is also quite attractive.
Anticipated maturity: 20102016. This is a terrific set of new wines from Allegrini, one of the benchmark producers
in Veneto. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 4450620
Al
Azienda Agricola le Salette | Valpolicella Classico
2008
UWS: 90/100
Layered with scents of game, smoked peppers and earth, this feels potent and rich in the middle, bristling with
tannins that resolve through the end as they soften into flavors of sweet fruit. An engaging Amarone to serve with
osso buco.
Aromatic, featuring floral and sweet smoke notes, this openknit version shows flavors of ripe cherry and black
raspberry, with accents of soft raisin, dried herb and chocolatecovered cherry. Delivers a fresh, lightly spiced
finish. Drink now through 2018. AN
15 Jun 2013
90/100
Very clean, open and pleasantly fragrant, with plenty of spicy red cherry fruit, crab apple and fresh almond in the
traditional, but not rustic, style. Dry, vibrant and soft tannins, deliciously juicy, like a mouthful of fresh bing
cherries. Not an exagerrated or blockbuster style, just perfect valpolicella the way they used to be made.
28 Jan 2012
A
Azienda Agricola le Salette | Valpolicella Classico
90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
2009
UWS: 92/100
A beautiful base Amarone, the 2009 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico shows weight and determination without
ever appearing jammy or heavy. In fact, balance is the name of the game and this wine pulls it off flawlessly. You get
dried fruit aromas of cherry and prune backed by the luscious bounty of oak smoke and spice. The finish is long,
smooth and rich and the wine is teaming with youth. Drink 20152026. Franco Scamperle's Amarone Riserva
Pergole Vece is one of the best Valpolicella wines on the market today. Only made in the best vintages from old
vines, it sees a longer appassimento and oak regime to increase the wine's distinctive intensity. Riserva Pergole Vece
ranks high on my list of personal favorites, but unfortunately I have seen the wine's retail price creep up suddenly
the past few years.
31 Oct 2013
92/100
379
Red Wines Italy
A
Azienda Agricola Stefano Accordini | Valpolicella Classico
2010
UWS: 90/100
A
Azienda Fratelli Tedeschi | Amarone della Valpolicella
2003
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
The 2003 Amarone Classico is an understated, feminine wine with ripe, floral fruit. This Amarone offers excellent
length as well as balance in a pretty, delicate style. Anticipated maturity: 20072013.
31 Oct 2007
89/100
Shows aromas of ripe damson, fig and nut, with floral, mineral notes. Medium to fullbodied, with good clean fruit,
wellintegrated tannins and a fresh chocolate finish. Balanced. Best after 2008. 7,500 cases made. JC
Wine Spectator © (WS), JC
A
15 Oct 2007
Azienda Fratelli Tedeschi | Valpolicella Superiore Capitel San Rocco
Ripasso
90/100
2007
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
The 2007 Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso Capitel San Rocco is a beautiful, plump wine loaded with character.
Smoke, black cherries, grilled herbs and spices come together beautifully in this juicy Valpolicella. The wine's inner
perfume carries through nicely on the finish. Anticipated maturity: 20102015.
Tedeschi's opulent Capitel San Rocco ripasso boasts elements of red fruit, spice, coffee, cola and sandalwood. The
wine is perfumed and intense and the mouthfeel is focused and sharp.
A
Ca' La Bionda | Amarone della Valpolicella
01 Oct 2009
90/100
2006
UWS: 90/100
Ca
Cecilia Beretta | Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Terre di Cariano
2001
UWS: 91/100
An exciting achievement, this select cru throbs with powerful intensity and complexity awarding a long list of
adjectives to describe its aromatic qualities: black cherry and cherry liquor, leather, cola, milk chocolate and
almond. Berry and bramble flavors make the mouthfeel lively and sophisticated and are a delicate segue into chewy
tart tannins and a spice driven finale.
Dark rubyred. Refined nose offers fully ripe red fruits, minerals, violet and hints of tobacco and ink. Sweet and
fruity, with pleasant red cherry, fig jam and milk chocolate flavors. Harmonious acidity gives definition to this nicely
balanced, smooth wine. A very successful Amarone in a somewhat lighter style that many tasters may prefer to the
overconcentration often shown by the Amarone behemoths.
380
An exciting achievement, this select cru throbs with powerful intensity and complexity awarding a long list of
adjectives to describe its aromatic qualities: black cherry and cherry liquor, leather, cola, milk chocolate and
almond. Berry and bramble flavors make the mouthfeel lively and sophisticated and are a delicate segue into chewy
tart tannins and a spice driven finale.
Red Wines Italy
Dark rubyred. Refined nose offers fully ripe red fruits, minerals, violet and hints of tobacco and ink. Sweet and
fruity, with pleasant red cherry, fig jam and milk chocolate flavors. Harmonious acidity gives definition to this nicely
balanced, smooth wine. A very successful Amarone in a somewhat lighter style that many tasters may prefer to the
overconcentration often shown by the Amarone behemoths.
Ce
Conte Loredan (Venegazzu) Gasparini | Colli Trevigiani Falconera
2005
UWS: 90/100
C
Maculan | Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon Veneto Brentino
2007
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
The 2007 Brentino is 55% Merlot and 45% Cabernet Sauvignon that spends 12 months in neutral French oak. It is a
round, generous red with remarkable polish and density in its fruit. This is a terrific red for the money. Anticipated
maturity: 20092013. Proprietor Fausto Maculan is a larger then life personality with an outsize passion for
everything that involves wine and food. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445
0620
M
Maculan | Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon Veneto Brentino
2009
UWS: 90/100
M
Novaia | Valpolicella Classico
2010
UWS: 90/100
Marano di Valpolicella. Rich, driedfruit flavours. Dusty finish. Bit too dry. Dried rose petals.
N
Santi | Valpolicella Classico Superiore Solane Ripasso
2009
UWS: 95/100
Sa
Tenuta Sant' Antonio | Valpolicella Superiore Monti Garbi Ripasso
2006
UWS: 90/100
28 Apr 2011
2/3
This is a standout ripasso that offers everything you should look for (and more) in this category of wine: intensity,
freshness, persistency and loads of succulent fruit. Aromas include cherry liqueur, spice and chocolate.
01 Oct 2009
91/100
The 2006 Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso Monti Garbi is a big, opulent wine loaded with superripe dark red fruit.
This polished, sleek wine has plenty of breed, but it needs time in a decanter to allow for some of the excessive
oakiness to blow off. Anticipated maturity: 20092012. This is an attractive set of entrylevel wines from Tenuta
Sant'Antonio, one of Veneto's emerging young properties.
381
28 Apr 2011
2/3
This is a standout ripasso that offers everything you should look for (and more) in this category of wine: intensity,
freshness, persistency and loads of succulent fruit. Aromas include cherry liqueur, spice and chocolate.
01 Oct 2009
91/100
Red Wines Italy
The 2006 Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso Monti Garbi is a big, opulent wine loaded with superripe dark red fruit.
This polished, sleek wine has plenty of breed, but it needs time in a decanter to allow for some of the excessive
oakiness to blow off. Anticipated maturity: 20092012. This is an attractive set of entrylevel wines from Tenuta
Sant'Antonio, one of Veneto's emerging young properties.
382
Red Wines New Zealand
South Island
Te
Brancott | Marlborough Pinot Noir
2006
UWS: 91/100
Pale but bright. Fine boned. Nice dry finish good intent and more sophisticated than the norm actually quite
subtle.
383
Red Wines Portugal
Alentejo
Br
Eugénio De Almeida | Alentejo Cartuxa Red
2010
UWS: 90/100
A ripe and dense red, with powerful, wellknit flavors of roasted plum, dark currant, cherry tart and bittersweet
chocolate. Offers rich smoky notes, showing hints of dried beef and spice. Drink now through 2018. KM
384
Red Wines Portugal
Dao
Eu
Caves Alianca | Dão
2007
UWS: 90/100
The 2007 TOURIGA NACIONAL (QUINTA DA GARRIDA) is refined and elegant, with moderate tannins supporting
the fruit. Overly oaky on opening, its character a bit subsumed by sweet oak notes, this does come around well,
eventually showing some earthy notes and more purity, nice structure and more fruit. It is a very nicely built
Touriga, with a little upside potential. Drink now2018.
12 months in Russian and French oak. Winemakers Francisco Antunes and Pascal Chatonnet. Dark ruby. Ripe
damsons and some dried fig. Hint of caramel. Rich and dense and packed with ripe but not overripe fruit. Velvety
and generous but has just enough freshness and a surprising mineral and more savoury note in all that luscious
fruit. Powerful with a dark chocolate finish. Not for the faint hearted. (JH)
Ca
Vinhos Sogrape | Dao Callabriga
2009
UWS: 91/100
Powerful and dense, this is full of wellstructured flavors of dark plum, boysenberry and wild cherry that are
accented by notes of mineral and sage. The long finish exudes white pepper and savory spice, with hints of
chocolate. Pure and vibrant. Drink now through 2016. KM
30 Jun 2012
91/100
385
Red Wines Portugal
Douro
Vi
Castelinho | Douro Reserva
2009
UWS: 90/100
Real interest and delicacy and some development on this rather oakdominated wine. Great balance. Chestnut and
damson flavours. I could imagine this going well with pig. GV
12 Jun 2012
16,5/20
A blend of touriga nacional, franca, tintoa toriz and barroca, it has brambly fruit that's almost zinfandelesque, with
a sweet clove and dried spice finish. This achieves a certain elegance for Douro wine, which usually offers power
over finesse.
Ca
Churchill | Douro
28 Jan 2012
88/100
2007
UWS: 90/100
The 2007 Churchill Vintage Port offers up an expressive fragrance of blueberry compote and fruitcake. Residing in
the background providing additional complexity are notes of violets, clove, and incense. This leads to a firm,
structured, muscular Port with plenty of fruit for balance. It should drink well from 2017 to 2032 but lacks the star
quality to stand out from the crowd.
28 Feb 2010
90/100
The 2007 TINTO (CHURCHILL ESTATES), is another tasty regular Tinto from this winery, a blend of Touriga
Nacional, Tinta Roriz, and Touriga Franca, raised in a combination of 20% new and old oak. As such, it has great
purity of fruit in a vintage that produced very fine fruit. It is on the lighter side and easy to drink, but persistent and
graceful. Drink now2016.
This muscular, firm red offers red berry and dark cherry flavors, with a powerful finish of chocolate and spice that
lingers with firm tannins. Drink now through 2013. 60,000 cases made. KM
C
Julio Barros | Douro Touriga Nacional
N.V.
UWS: 90/100
Barros's tawnies are worth seeking out. This young example shows the house's signature smoky, nutty aromas but
adds more fruity scents of raisins and prunes. Supple in the mouth, with a long, toffeefilled finish.
Ju
Lavradores de Feitoria | Douro
2010
UWS: 90/100
Very pale greenish gold. Creamy fresh quince and pear. Tight and lightly grained and very refreshing even though
there's a creamy texture. Good intro to Douro white. (JH)
La
Quinta do Passadouro | Douro
2011
UWS: 90/100
The 2011 Tinto, i.e., the Estate Tinto, not to be confused with the Passa, is a blend of 40% Touriga Nacional, 25%
each of Tinta Roriz and Touriga Franca and
10% old vines field blend, aged in oak (80% used, 20% new) for 18
386
months. It comes in at 14.5% alcohol. With refined tannins and an understated demeanor, it is a gracious and
carefully constructed regular Tinto that performs beautifully. It should make the winery a lot of friends. It initially
Red Wines Portugal
UWS: 90/100
The 2011 Tinto, i.e., the Estate Tinto, not to be confused with the Passa, is a blend of 40% Touriga Nacional, 25%
each of Tinta Roriz and Touriga Franca and 10% old vines field blend, aged in oak (80% used, 20% new) for 18
months. It comes in at 14.5% alcohol. With refined tannins and an understated demeanor, it is a gracious and
carefully constructed regular Tinto that performs beautifully. It should make the winery a lot of friends. It initially
has some of the same structural feel as the Passa red reviewed this issue, but with no tankaging, more power and
more concentration, this projects a more serious feel, the exuberant fruit seen on the Passa not in evidence, at least
not in the same way. As it sits in the glass, it expands, showing beautiful balance and refinement. Its harmony and
texture are calling cards. This won't be the biggest wow wine of the vintage, but it is wine you won't want to stop
drinking, another example of what a fine year Passadouro has had and what values are to be had here at lower
levels. Drink now2023. This set of new releases (plus one blast from the recent past) is probably the best set of
offerings that I have seen from Passadouro. From top to bottom, they deliver. Plus, they offer a lot of value overall,
with one nice bargain after another. Bargain hunters should take note. In fact, I was beginning to think that
winemaker Jorge Borges had a problem here: he is making the lower level wines too good. Consumers can and
should profit from that problem.
The 2011 Quinta do Passadouro has a hightoned bouquet driven by an intense floral component that, to be honest,
distracts from the sumptuous fruit macerated small dark cherries, cassis and bilberry. The palate is mediumbodied
with a viscous opening, soft and rounded in the mouth, with plenty of salted licorice and creme de cassis on the
generous finish. This should be an accessible, early drinking Vintage Port, though it should age easily over 20 years.
Tasted May 2013.
Q
30 Jun 2013
Quinta do Portal | Douro Mural
8991/100
2008
UWS: 90/100
Scents of purple basil and juicy tobacco seem to bridge the tannins and the fruit of this wine. For now, those schist
driven tannins dominate the finish; substantial as they are, they feel like they are packed with spicy fruit. Give this a
few years in the cellar.
Q
Quinta do Portal | Douro Reserva
01 Apr 2013
90/100
2001
UWS: 90/100
Place three of the Douro's classic varieties under strict modern winemaking and you get a sleek red like this. A
blend of touriga nacional (40 percent), tinta roriz (40) and touriga franca, this has the wild purple fruit of the Douro
and the rubyredgrapefruit acidity to cut it. Cool and dark in tone, this is an elegant red for duck. MHW Ltd.
Q
01 Apr 2006
90/100
2003
UWS: 90/100
The 2003 RESERVA shows a notable uptick in quality from Portal, but it does not yet represent Portal hitting its
peak performance. While mature, with a porty nuance, this has tension, too, the richness and thick palate cut by a
little steel. Ripe and dense but a little one dimensional, this is drinking well now, but it may also be aging fast. Drink
now2015. The Auru, Reserva and Grande Reserva verticals from 2009 on back were poured at the winery in
Douro. The Reserva vertical showed improvement and then consistency, making this wine a really fine value point in
the Portal lineup—although as time goes on the Grande Reservas overall certainly generally surpass them and age
better, e.g., 2000 and 2003. Notes on wines omitted in the Reserva vertical (particularly the '04 and '08) are in the
database. The Grande Reserva lineup had few surprises. The wines generally showed quite well and my winery notes
and scores were pretty much in line with what was originally published and predicted. It is, however, good to
confirm that the wines fulfilled their promise and developed well. The Auru vertical also demonstrated the winery's
improving skill. There can't be much doubt that Portal is a serious player in Douro, competing well with most
anyone. The only problem with Auru is the pricing. The wines are certainly pretty fine, but the question there does
become whether it justifies the big price spike considering how good many of the lesser bottlings have become. The
Grande Reservas have really become a sweet spot in the lineup, not that they are cheap. NOTE: I am not publishing
Published
by 90pluswines.com
387
a tasting note on the 2009 Auru as it was rather
closed
and needs to be reevaluated, but it certainly seemed to have
at least 9294 point potential. Note that the prices for the library wines were simply taken from the last releases. The
little steel. Ripe and dense but a little one dimensional, this is drinking well now, but it may also be aging fast. Drink
now2015. The Auru, Reserva and Grande Reserva verticals from 2009 on back were poured at the winery in
Douro. The Reserva vertical showed improvement and then consistency, making this wine a really fine value point in
the Portal lineup—although as time goes on the Grande Reservas overall certainly generally surpass them and age
a tasting note on the 2009 Auru as it was rather closed and needs to be reevaluated, but it certainly seemed to have
older vintages may not in fact be readily available and thus prices may vary widely.
Red Wines Portugal
Juicy, with raspberry and red plum flavors and peppery notes. The chewy finish features chocolate and coffee, with
plenty of tannins. Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz and Touriga Franca. Drink now through 2010. 2,200 cases made.
KM
28 Apr 2011
88/100
The heat of the vintage built this into a dry Port, with scents of esteva, blueberry skins and fresh fig. It's surprisingly
plump, juicy and elegant for a wine with such a punch of lean, schisty tannins in the finish. Decant it for lamb chops.
01 Apr 2009
92/100
Structured, rich, but also with good fresh acidity, this is one of the best wines in the Quinta do Portal range. It has
lively, vibrant red fruit, along with dry tannins, some vanilla from wood aging. Great acidity in the aftertaste.
Q
01 Sep 2007
91/100
2007
UWS: 91/100
The 2007 RESERVA is quite possibly the winery's best, at least as it is drinking now. It is a blend of Touriga
Nacional (40%), Tinta Roriz (40%) and Touriga Franca (20%), radically different than the '05. When I saw it the
first time, it had a meaty note that I sometimes attribute to ripe Tinta Roriz, but that has calmed quite a bit and at
least from this bottle it no longer has that strong gamey nuance. It does have gorgeous, youthful fruit and a
charming exuberance to go with silky texture and a caressing mouthfeel. It becomes more intense on the finish as it
is well structured, too. I suspect that this can still improve a bit, but it is pretty close to peak at this time. Drink now
2022. The Auru, Reserva and Grande Reserva verticals from 2009 on back were poured at the winery in Douro.
The Reserva vertical showed improvement and then consistency, making this wine a really fine value point in the
Portal lineup—although as time goes on the Grande Reservas overall certainly generally surpass them and age
a tasting note on the 2009 Auru as it was rather closed and needs to be reevaluated, but it certainly seemed to have
older vintages may not in fact be readily available and thus prices may vary widely.
Very plush, with a juicy allure to the red plum, raspberry and sweet cherry flavors. Crisp and fresh in the midpalate,
with lots of cream and spice. Drink now through 2014. 2,000 cases made. KM
15 Jun 2010
90/100
A bighearted wine, with fullbodied black fruits, sweet tannins and a delicious balance between structure and
opulence. There is just enough restraint here, but not much, and the wine does want to burst out of the glass.
Q
Quinta do Portal | Douro Touriga Nacional
2003
UWS: 90/100
Twelve months in new French oak. Deeply coloured and very ripe toasted fruit. Lots of spicy oak on nose and palate.
Very big wine but with a fluidity across the palate. Rather hot on the finish and lacks the elegance of some there
also some residual sweetness (4.1 g/l). More of a blockbuster but still retains that dry freshness of the Douro. (JH)
388
Red Wines Portugal
UWS: 90/100
Twelve months in new French oak. Deeply coloured and very ripe toasted fruit. Lots of spicy oak on nose and palate.
Very big wine but with a fluidity across the palate. Rather hot on the finish and lacks the elegance of some there
also some residual sweetness (4.1 g/l). More of a blockbuster but still retains that dry freshness of the Douro. (JH)
A huge wine, full of soft fruit. The layers of tannins sit gently on the plum and cassis fruits, lifted by acidity. If it
wasn't 15.5%, this would be impressive, but the high alcohol makes the wine very Portlike, giving an extra layer of
pepper from the alcohol.
01 Sep 2007
88/100
Shows an interesting mix of mature aromas and flavors of dark plum, savory herb and chocolate, with a strong
peppery strain. The finish is chewy, with dark chocolate, mocha and hints of bourbon. Distinctive. Drink now
through 2010. 330 cases made. KM
15 Jun 2007
90/100
The 2003 Touriga Nacional was presented in a bottle, although labeled a cask sample. It is well structured, with
good depth, but curiously reticent, a wine that is drying on the finish. It is penetrating and focused, but dumb on
opening. As it opens up, the fruit gets more interesting. The somewhat eccentric, rather herbal note on the finish
diminished to a point where I noticed it, but the wine was not dominated by it. It does seem a bit heady at times, but I
found myself liking this intense Touriga more and more as it aired out. Drink 20082014. This estate, operating
under the supervision of French consultant Pascal Chatonnet, is producing an array of wines that generally perform
well at fair prices.
Q
Quinta do Roriz | Douro Prazo
28 Feb 2007
89/100
2006
UWS: 90/100
Elegant and creamytasting, with bright, welldefined flavors of raspberry, red plum and cinnamon. Finishes with
mocha and silky tannins. Needs some cellar time to flesh out more. Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta
Barroca, Tinta Roriz and Tinto Cão. Drink now. 3,000 cases made. KM
28 Apr 2011
90/100
This reminds me a bit of raisin toast in the nicest possible way. It has been served lightly chilled, and that works very
well as a simple, fruitdriven style with soft tannic structure and spiced finish. (RH)
Q
Real Companhia Velha | Douro Quinta dos Aciprestes
2007
UWS: 90/100
There is gentle power in this wine. The fruit is sweet, soft, with a minimum of tannin, but intensely rich. There is
lively acidity at the same time, with flavors of red berry and pepper. Wood spice is dominant at this stage in the
wine's development, so give it 23 years.
389
Red Wines Portugal
Ribatejo
Re
Casa Cadaval | Ribatejo Vinha Padre Pedro
2008
UWS: 90/100
Licorice and dark chocolate flavors emerge with firm tannins cutting through the balanced fruit and acidity. Flavors
are also of black cherry, damson and perhaps mineral. The wine needs decanting.
390
Coastal Region
Ca
Boekenhoutskloof | Cabernet Sauvignon Coastal Region Porcupine Ridge
2011
UWS: 90/100
100% Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from Malmesbury, Stellenbosch and Franschhoek. The wine is fermented in
stainless steel with selected yeast strains. After alcoholic fermentation, the wine is left on the skins for an additional
period to soften tannins and lengthen extraction. French oak maturation for nine months is followed with a fining
and sterile bottling. Residual sugar: 3.3 g/l. Dark crimson. Sweet and flattering and very smooth. Skilfully made but
I'd drink it sooner rather than later.
10 Oct 2012
16/20
391
Constantia
B
Groot Constantia | Cabernet Sauvignon Constantia
2007
UWS: 91/100
100% Cabernet Sauvignon. RS 1.9 g/l, TA 5.8 g/l, pH 3.78. Redolent of capsicum and ripe blackcurrants. Sinewy,
grippy with wonderful vibrant acidity and fresh black fruit. (TC)
17 Feb 2011
16,5/20
392
Paarl
Gr
Glen Carlou | Cabernet Sauvignon Paarl
2006
UWS: 90/100
The nose starts with a delicate aroma of minerals, black currant and spice, and on the palate, layers of anise,
cracked pepper and clove add a soulful touch. Sturdy tannins and a vibrant overall fruit profile give the wine a lift,
but the package is balanced and smooth.
393
Stellenbosch
Gl
Delheim Winery | Simonsberg - Stellenbosch Shiraz
2002
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
D
Jordan | Syrah Stellenbosch Bradgate
28 Apr 2011
3/5
2009
UWS: 90/100
The entrylevel 2009 Bradgate Syrah offers outstanding value for the price. It has a surprisingly complex nose that
takes time to unfurl in the glass but eventually offers maraschino cherries, a touch of mint, leather and underbrush,
but all very subtle and contained. The palate is mediumbodied with very silky, refined tannins that lend it symmetry
and grace. It is very pure on the finish, slipping down the throat with ease. Drink now2015. Established in 1982 by
Ted and Sheelagh Jordan, their son, erstwhile geologist Gary Jordan, and his wife have done much to put
Stellenbosch on the map. Their vines lies between 160 meters and 410 meters above sea level and their winery uses
gravity flow to vinify the wine in stainless steel tanks. Their winery also sports one of South Africa's finest
restaurants. Importer World Premiere Wines and Vinnovative Imports, Mooresville, NC.
Jo
Jordan | Syrah Stellenbosch Bradgate
2011
UWS: 90/100
Dark crimson. Dark, rich and sweet fruited. Velvet texture, easy and rich but also has a fine more savoury finish.
(JH)
Jo
Kanonkop Wine Estate | Kadette Stellenbosch
08 Oct 2012
16/20
2008
UWS: 91/100
This blend of Pinotage, Cabernet, Merlot and Cabernet Franc is fullbodied and complex, with layered aromas of
cherry, banana and warming spices, and smooth, elegant flavors of cedar, cherry, tobacco smoke and red berries.
Velvety, soft tannins and a clean finish give it a classy touch. The wine can age, but drink now and you won't be
disappointed.
K
Ken Forrester Vineyards | Merlot Stellenbosch
2010
UWS: 90/100
A blend of 65% Cabernet and 35% Merlot, the marvelous 2010 Petit Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot has a herbaceous,
Cru Bourgeoislike nose but is fresh, well defined and full of energy. The palate is vibrant on the entry and embraces
Old World freshness and vitality better than most Bordeaux! It has a delicious, crisp peppery fruit with a touch of
cedar and graphite on the welldefined finish. The only thing Petit about this superb wine is the price. Drink now
2014. Whilst I have enjoyed more than my fair share of legendary Bordeaux wines, Ken Forrester provides a
pertinent reminder that great Cabernet can be made for under tendollars. You could count the number of Bordeaux
chateaux offering equivalent QPR on one finger. This, and the rest of his portfolio represent everything that can be
achieved in South Africa: cleanly made, expressive wines at unbeatable prices interspersed with one of two flagship
wines that mean business. If you have never tried South African wine before, then I cannot think of a better place to
start than here.
394
A blend of 65% Cabernet and 35% Merlot, the marvelous 2010 Petit Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot has a herbaceous,
Cru Bourgeoislike nose but is fresh, well defined and full of energy. The palate is vibrant on the entry and embraces
Old World freshness and vitality better than most Bordeaux! It has a delicious, crisp peppery fruit with a touch of
cedar and graphite on the welldefined finish. The only thing Petit about this superb wine is the price. Drink now
2014. Whilst I have enjoyed more than my fair share of legendary Bordeaux wines, Ken Forrester provides a
pertinent reminder that great Cabernet can be made for under tendollars. You could count the number of Bordeaux
chateaux offering equivalent QPR on one finger. This, and the rest of his portfolio represent everything that can be
achieved in South Africa: cleanly made, expressive wines at unbeatable prices interspersed with one of two flagship
wines that mean business. If you have never tried South African wine before, then I cannot think of a better place to
start than here.
K
Malverne | Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon / Merlot
2004
UWS: 92/100
Named by a previous owner after the Malvern Hills in England, and Frenchified by the current owner, Seymour
Pritchard. Clos Malverne benefits from the coolclimate of the Devon Valley to produce structured wines, like this
stillyoung 2004. With juicy, blackberry flavors, and layers of toast and herbs, this is a finely balanced wine. Not
imported.
395
Walker Bay
M
Wildekrans | Cabernet Franc-Merlot Walker Bay
2007
UWS: 90/100
IWine Review © (IWR) 05 May 2012 91/100
Good deep red. Musky berries, game and smoke on the nose. Then juicy and intense for the price range, with good
definition to the dark berry, violet and licorice flavors. Offers nice leafy, floral cabernet franc lift in an easy
drinking package. Finishes with good persistence.
International Wine Cellar © (IWC), Stephen Tanzer 01 Mar 2011 88/100
396
Western Cape
W
Kwv | Cabernet Sauvignon Western Cape
2000
UWS: 90/100
The nose of buttered toast, golden raisins, dried herbs, oiled leather, black olives and radicchio extends to the
palate. A slightly herby tang to the finish imparts cleanness on the palate. A delicious expression of fruit that is
subtle but well structured, not to mention inexpensive.
K
Kwv | Pinotage Western Cape
01 Apr 2003
90/100
2008
UWS: 90/100
5.97 g/l TA, 2.3 g/l RS, 3.58 pH. Mellow fruity nose, simple but clean palate with fresh blackberry fruit in the
middle and a soft, round mouthfeel. Aromatic violet scent gives some complexity, good balance, very drinkable and
good value. (RH)
397
Red Wines Spain
Aragon
K
Agricola de Borja | Campo de Borja Tres Picos
2009
UWS: 90/100
color Cereza, Borde Granate. Aroma Fruta Escarchada, Fruta Al Licor, Especias Dulces, Tostado, Café Aromático,
Hierbas De Tocador. Boca Sabroso, Especiado, Fruta Madura, Largo.
Guia Penin © (GP)
25 Jan 2012
92/100
Heavy doses of char, rubber, graphite and hickory dance with black fruit aromas. Tastes big, rich, resiny and
lemony, with a ton of barrel action forcing up chocolate, resin and dark spice flavors. Warm and long on the finish,
with power to spare. 100% Garnacha.
The 2009 Tres Picos is a worthy successor to the string of splendid vintages which have preceded it. Heady black
cherry and blackberry aromas, Asian spices, incense, and mineral notes lead to a dense, layered, rich oldvine
Garnacha that overdelivers in a big way. A tasting of every vintage of Tres Picos ever produced (back to 2001) at
the Bodega in January 2011 indicates that 810 years of pleasurable drinking is a reasonable expectation. However,
this is a wine that is ready to drink on release. Bodegas Borsao has long been known for high quality valuepriced
wines and the current releases are no exception.
30 Jun 2011
92/100
Toasty vanilla frames cherry, blackberry and cocoa flavors in this fresh red, which has light tannins and a spicy
finish. Quite sleek, showing plenty of personality. Drink now through 2012. TM
15 Jun 2011
88/100
(aged half in stainless steel and half in French barriques Glassstaining ruby. An explosive, flamboyantly perfumed
bouquet exudes scents of blackberry, cherry cola, violet and cracked pepper, plus a hint of smokiness. Deeply
pitched flavors of dark fruits and candied flowers remind me of syrah, but red fruit notes emerge with air,
confirming that this is garnacha, not syrah. Intense, focused and impressively persistent on the finish, which echoes
the sweet red and dark fruit notes and leaves a subtle smoky quality. This serious wine should be even better in a
couple of years. (Fine Estates from Spain, Dedham, MA)
A
2010
UWS: 91/100
One of my favorite offerings from the Bodegas Borsao is the 6,000case cuvee of the 2010 Tres Picos. Made from
100% Garnacha aged in equal parts stainless steel and French oak, this is the Bodegas Borsao's interpretation of
Chateauneuf du Pape. (But when's the last time you saw a bottle of Chateauneuf du Pape priced at $17 about 30
years ago?) Deep notes of roasted herbs, sweet black cherries and raspberries, peppers and spice soar from the
glass of this dark ruby/purpletinged wine. Fullbodied, rich, ripe, silky textured, pure and long, this unbelievable
value should drink well for 34 years. This is a marvelous consumer resource for high quality wines selling at
absurdly low prices. I often ask myself, if I had known wines like this existed when I began my career 33 years ago,
would I have even considered trying to find great wines at low prices? This has been one of my goto wineries for
many years, given their relationship between quality and price. Once you taste these wines, you will probably ask
the same question many people have why do I need to spend more? Bodegas Borsao, which was founded in 1958,
owns 3,700 acres in what is one of the emerging, super quality, realistically priced wine regions of not only Spain,
but all of Western Europe, Campo de Borja. The soils tend to be dominated by a white chalkiness with considerable
alluvial gravel and pebbles. The climate is continental, meaning extremely hot summers and cold winters with some
influence from the nearby Ebro River. The vineyards are not old by Spanish standards, with most of the Grenache
planted in the early 1980s, and the Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah in the late 1990s. Most of the wines
see no oak, and are fermented and aged in stainless steel under strict temperature and quality conditions.
31 Oct 2012
92/100
This rich red is brimming with raspberry jam, chocolate, licorice and wild herb flavors. Firm tannins are well
integrated and buoyed by orange peel acidity. A lively modern style. Drink now through 2015. TM
Wine
Spectator © (WS),
Published
by 90pluswines.com
Thomas Matthews
30 Apr 2012
90/100
398
Glassstaining purple. Lively, faintly medicinal aromas of cherry, blueberry and licorice, plus hints of smoky herbs
many years, given their relationship between quality and price. Once you taste these wines, you will probably ask
the same question many people have why do I need to spend more? Bodegas Borsao, which was founded in 1958,
owns 3,700 acres in what is one of the emerging, super quality, realistically priced wine regions of not only Spain,
but all of Western Europe, Campo de Borja. The soils tend to be dominated by a white chalkiness with considerable
alluvial gravel and pebbles. The climate is continental, meaning extremely hot summers and cold winters with some
influence from the nearby Ebro River. The vineyards are not old by Spanish standards, with most of the Grenache
planted in the early 1980s, and the Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah in the late 1990s. Most of the wines
see no oak, and are fermented and aged in stainless steel under strict temperature and quality conditions.
Red Wines Spain
31 Oct 2012
92/100
This rich red is brimming with raspberry jam, chocolate, licorice and wild herb flavors. Firm tannins are well
integrated and buoyed by orange peel acidity. A lively modern style. Drink now through 2015. TM
30 Apr 2012
90/100
Glassstaining purple. Lively, faintly medicinal aromas of cherry, blueberry and licorice, plus hints of smoky herbs
and flowers. Juicy and expansive, offering sweet, deeply pitched bitter cherry and dark berry flavors supported by a
taut spine of acidity and finegrained tannins. Finishes with powerful spicy thrust and suggestions of candied flowers
and woodsmoke. This could pass for a northern Rhone wine, and a really good one at that. (JR)
A
2011
UWS: 90/100
Rich and juicy, this red delivers a mouthful of blackberry and black cherry, backed by chocolate and licorice notes.
Offers gentle tannins and slightly balsamic acidity, but stays balanced through the sweet finish. Better than
previously reviewed. Drink now through 2017. TM
Wine Spectator © (WS), Thomas Matthews 15 Dec 2013 88/100
(fermented in stainless steel; half of the wine was aged in small French oak barrels, 40% new, and the other half in
stainless steel tank): Inky purple. Ripe black raspberry and cherry liqueur scents are brightened by zesty pepper and
allspice nuances. Plush and sweet, with powerful cherry and red berry compote flavors given lift by juicy acidity.
Gains flesh and depth on the impressively long, spicy finish, which is given shape by finegrained tannins.
A
Bodegas Anadas | Carinena Care Syrah / Tempranillo
01 Sep 2012
91/100
2005
UWS: 90/100
The 2005 CARE is a 100% Syrah cuvee with a kinky bouquet of smoked meat, leather, underbrush, and blueberry.
Layered on the palate, this pleasurebent wine has excellent integration of oak, tannin, and acidity, and will have a
drinking window extending from 2010 to 2018. Bodegas Anadas was founded in 2000 in the village of Carinena
and owns 100 hectares of vines planted to seven varietals. The wines are bottled under the CARE label with each
wine bearing a different artfully rendered face. In addition to the wines noted above, there are several red and white
offerings that are notable values which are listed in Issue 181.
B
30 Jun 2009
Bodegas Anadas | Carinena Care Syrah / Tempranillo
90+/100
2006
UWS: 90/100
B
Bodegas Aragonesas | Campo de Borja Coto de Hayas Centenaria
29 Feb 2008
90/100
2011
UWS: 91/100
This fleshy red delivers a rich core of blackberry and blueberry compote, accented by toasty vanilla, sweet licorice
and cinnamon spice. Wellintegrated tannins give this backbone. A bold, modern style. Drink now through 2017.
TM
B
Bodegas Bodegas y Vinedos del Jalon | Catalayud Las Pizarras
30 Apr 2013
91/100
2009
399
Red Wines Spain
UWS: 91/100
The unoaked 2009 Las Pizarras del Jalon is sourced from 70 to 100yearold Grenache vines. Deep purple in color,
it offers up an enticing nose of Asian spices, incense, lavender, mineral, and black cherry fruit leading to a wine with
outstanding depth and concentration. Impeccably balanced and lengthy, this pure effort justifies the decision to
eschew the use of oak. Bodegas y Vinedos Del Jalon is the producer of the well known Vina Alarba label as well as
higher level wines from the Garnacha capital of Calatayud.
B
Bodegas Solar de Urbezo | Carinena Dance del Mar
30 Jun 2011
91/100
2005
UWS: 90/100
The 2005 Dance del Mar is an unoaked bottling consisting of 50% Tempranillo and 50% Merlot. Purplecolored,
this upfront, tasty wine has an expressive bouquet of red cherry and currants. Suppletextured, spicy, and with no
hard edges, this outstanding value can be enjoyed over the next 34 years.
B
Bodegas Solar de Urbezo | Cariñena Viña Urbezo
29 Feb 2008
90/100
2010
UWS: 90/100
color Cereza, Borde Violáceo. Aroma Fruta Fresca, Floral, Lácticos, Frambuesa. Boca Sabroso, Frutoso, Buena
Acidez.
Guia Penin © (GP)
25 Jan 2012
90/100
The 2010 Vina Urbezo is a tank fermented and raised blend of 40% Garnacha, 30% Tempranillo, and 30% Syrah.
Fresh and fruity with a charming bouquet of smoke, game, blueberry, and black cherry, on the palate it is round and
supple with plenty of depth and savory flavors. It is an outstanding value which will deliver plenty of enjoyment over
the next 3 years. Solar de Urbezo is a 220 acre estate located in the DO of Carinena.
B
Hacienda Molleda | Carinena Garnacha Hacienda Molleda
30 Jun 2011
90/100
2006
UWS: 91/100
H
Vinedos y Bodegas Pablo | Carinena Garnacha Menguante Seleccion
29 Feb 2008
91/100
2004
UWS: 91/100
Spanish Red. #1; COLORdark; NOSEvery New World; like new Nikes; loaded w/ Sunkist; some skittles rainbow
action; TASTEvery high in fruit; overthetop; over ripe; strawberries for days; nice bitter tannins (put this away
for 34 years and it will get much better); a well balance fruit bomb; so vibrant, but does a great job toning itself
down on the finish; dark chocolate; nice white asparagus head on the finish; extremely vibrant; nice cherry juice;
very solid effort; JM91; GV91
Wine Lib TV © (WLTV) 04 Mar 2008 91/100
The 2004 Menguante Garnacha Seleccion raises the bar a bit. It spent 8 months in a mixture of used French and
American oak. Dark ruby in color, it is a bit more sophisticated than the two previous wines with its complex nose of
vanilla, smoke, cedar, red currants and kirsch. It also offers more structure with ripe tannins nicely concealed by
generous quantities of red and blue fruits. There is very good concentration and depth through to the pure finish.
Give this outstanding wine several years in bottle for further evolution and drink it over the following 68 years.
Kudos to the Pablo family!
28 Feb 2007
91/100
400
down on the finish; dark chocolate; nice white asparagus head on the finish; extremely vibrant; nice cherry juice;
very solid effort; JM91; GV91
Wine Lib TV © (WLTV) 04 Mar 2008 91/100
The 2004 Menguante Garnacha Seleccion raises the bar a bit. It spent 8 months in a mixture of used French and
American oak. Dark ruby in color, it is a bit more sophisticated than the two previous wines with its complex nose of
vanilla, smoke, cedar, red currants and kirsch. It also offers more structure with ripe tannins nicely concealed by
generous quantities of red and blue fruits. There is very good concentration and depth through to the pure finish.
Give this outstanding wine several years in bottle for further evolution and drink it over the following 68 years.
Kudos to the Pablo family!
Red Wines Spain
28 Feb 2007
91/100
401
Red Wines Spain
Castilla and Leon
Vi
Bodega Fariña | Toro Colegiata
2007
UWS: 90/100
Decanter © (DC)
B
Bodega y Vinedos Castro Ventosa | Bierzo El Castro de Valtuille
28 Sep 2011
3/5
2004
UWS: 90/100
A juicy, balanced red, with alluring aromas of wild berry and wet stone that carry through on the palate. Has
intensity, yet remains graceful, with spicy and floral accents to the lively fruit. Drink now through 2012. 25,000
cases made. TM
15 Jun 2007
92/100
The four wines from Casto Ventosa are 100% Mencia. The 2004 El Castro de Valtuille is dark rubycolored with
fragrant aromas and flavors of scorched earth, black raspberry, and black cherry. This is followed by a supple, ripe,
structured wine with good flavors and excellent length. The wine has tannin to lose so plan on cellaring it for 23
years.
B
28 Feb 2007
88/100
2006
UWS: 92/100
Boysenberry, licorice, espresso and mineral flavors are focused and wellintegrated in this layered, balanced red,
which has real density on an elegant frame. Drink now through 2016. 1,500 cases made. TM
Wine Spectator © (WS), Thomas Matthews 30 Nov 2009 92/100
Vivid ruby. Intensely perfumed bouquet displays scents of cherrycola, raspberry and pungent herbs. Sappy, palate
staining red and dark berry flavors are impressively concentrated, with tangy minerals providing lift. At once lush
and vibrant, with excellent mineral thrust on the back. While this is balanced to age, the fruit is already extremely
attractive.
01 Jul 2009
91/100
The purplecolored 2006 El Castro de Valtuille is 100% Mencia sourced from vines with an average age of 60 years.
It offers up a classy bouquet of cherry, raspberry, mineral, and incense. Layered and dense on the palate, it has
complex flavors, excellent concentration, plenty of spice, and a lengthy finish. Drink it from 2011 to 2021.
B
30 Jun 2009
92/100
2007
UWS: 91/100
Deep rubyred. Sexy aromas of black raspberry, cherry, cola and fresh flowers, with a mineral note gaining strength
with air. Juicy and precise on the palate, offering vibrant red and dark berry flavors and slowbuilding spiciness.
The mineral note comes back on the finish, which lingers with impressive tenacity.
01 Sep 2011
90/100
Discreet yet intense, this lithe red delivers cherry, anise, mountain herb, mineral and tar notes, with depth and
nerve. Compact now, but should bloom with time. Drink now through 2020. 4,000 cases made. TM
The 2007 El Castro de Valtuille is 100% Mencia sourced from 60+yearold vines. Deep crimsoncolored, it offers
up an expressive bouquet of mineral, cherry, raspberry, and spice box. Plush on the palate with layers of savory red
fruits and loads of spice, this tasty effort can be enjoyed now but should fill out over the next 12 years. It is an
outstanding value.
402
30 Apr 2010
91/100
Deep rubyred. Sexy aromas of black raspberry, cherry, cola and fresh flowers, with a mineral note gaining strength
with air. Juicy and precise on the palate, offering vibrant red and dark berry flavors and slowbuilding spiciness.
The mineral note comes back on the finish, which lingers with impressive tenacity.
01 Sep 2011
90/100
Discreet yet intense, this lithe red delivers cherry, anise, mountain herb, mineral and tar notes, with depth and
nerve. Compact now, but should bloom with time. Drink now through 2020. 4,000 cases made. TM
Red Wines Spain
The 2007 El Castro de Valtuille is 100% Mencia sourced from 60+yearold vines. Deep crimsoncolored, it offers
up an expressive bouquet of mineral, cherry, raspberry, and spice box. Plush on the palate with layers of savory red
fruits and loads of spice, this tasty effort can be enjoyed now but should fill out over the next 12 years. It is an
outstanding value.
B
30 Apr 2010
91/100
2008
UWS: 90/100
Dark crimson. A bit oaky and modern for me. OK but not thrilling. Bit sour.
12 Sep 2012
16/20
Vivid ruby. Ripe cherry, redcurrant and plum on the nose, with oak spice accents and a touch of black cardamom.
Rich, supple and juicy, offering bitter cherry and dark berry flavors and a late jolt of cracked pepper. Deep, nicely
concentrated and long on the gently tannic finish.
01 Sep 2012
90/100
color Cereza, Borde Granate. Aroma Especiado, Roble Cremoso, Tostado, Fruta Madura, Balsámico. Boca Potente,
Sabroso, Tostado, Taninos Maduros.
Guia Penin © (GP)
B
Bodegas Bodegas y vinedos Fernandez Rivera | Vino de Mesa de Castilla y
Leon Dehesa la Granja
25 Jan 2012
91/100
2000
UWS: 90/100
The 2000 Dehesa la Granja Seleccion received malolactic in French oak barrels followed by an additional 2 years
in the oak. It offers more complex aromatics (mineral, cedar, spice box, smoke, leather, and black fruits) but is
compact, a bit too structured in the mouth, and the finish is somewhat abrupt. If time pulls this wine together, my
score will look conservative.
28 Feb 2007
88/100
Soft, elegant, and restrained, the deep ruby/purplecolored, mediumbodied 2000 possesses a spicy, leathery finish.
Anticipated maturity: now. This is an excellent value.
30 Apr 2004
87/100
Deep red. Lush, perfumed and sweet on the nose, offering a range of wild plum and red and dark berry aromas
complemented by vanilla, bitter chocolate, espresso, dried mushroom and baking spices. Lush and creamy, with
solid tannins framing deep, sweet blackberry and plum fruit. Persistently sweet finish features broad, supple tannins
and hints of smoked meat and black pepper. (Classical Wines From Spain, Seattle WA)
01 Sep 2006
91/100
Saturated medium ruby. Aromas of black raspberry, blackberry, cassis, mocha and espresso. Dense, lush and sappy,
with an impressive core of sweet black raspberry, dark chocolate and nutty oak flavors. Velvety, sweet and large
scaled but still quite unevolved. A somewhat unrefined but impressive wine that finishes very long, with building
tannins. The strongest vintage yet from Alejandro Fernandez's third Ribera del Duero project (after Pesquera and
Condado de Haza), and a great value. (Classical Wines From Spain, Seattle, WA)
B
Bodegas Cambrico | Vino de la Tierra de Leon Tempranillo
01 Jul 2003
91/100
2006
UWS: 90/100
color Cereza Brillante, Borde Anaranjado. Aroma Fruta Madura, Complejo, Hierbas De Monte, Mineral, Fina
Reducción. Boca Potente, Sabroso, Mineral.
Guia Penin © (GP)
25 Jan 2012
90/100
The 2006 Tempranillo also spent 14 months in French oak. It is a darker ruby color with a bit more structure,
density and grip. Smoothtextured, intense, and with good volume, it will benefit from 46 years of cellaring and has
a drinking window extending from 2015 to 2026. At Bodegas Cambrico, the 60+yearold Rufete vines are
Published
by 90pluswines.com
403
biodynamically farmed. Rufete is a cousin to
the Pinot
Noir brought to the region by Burgundian settlers over 400
years ago. Over time, the Tempranillo vines of the region have grown to resemble the Rufete vines so much that only
UWS: 90/100
color Cereza Brillante, Borde Anaranjado. Aroma Fruta Madura, Complejo, Hierbas De Monte, Mineral, Fina
Reducción. Boca Potente, Sabroso, Mineral.
Red Wines Spain
Guia Penin © (GP)
25 Jan 2012
90/100
The 2006 Tempranillo also spent 14 months in French oak. It is a darker ruby color with a bit more structure,
density and grip. Smoothtextured, intense, and with good volume, it will benefit from 46 years of cellaring and has
a drinking window extending from 2015 to 2026. At Bodegas Cambrico, the 60+yearold Rufete vines are
biodynamically farmed. Rufete is a cousin to the Pinot Noir brought to the region by Burgundian settlers over 400
years ago. Over time, the Tempranillo vines of the region have grown to resemble the Rufete vines so much that only
the locals are permitted to pick at harvest time because they can more easily discriminate the subtle differences.
B
Bodegas Casar de Burbia | Bierzo Casar de Burbia
30 Jun 2011
90/100
2009
UWS: 92/100
color Cereza, Borde Granate. Aroma Potente, Varietal, Frambuesa, Hierbas De Monte, Roble Nuevo. Boca
Sabroso, Frutoso, Carnoso, Taninos Marcados De Roble.
Guia Penin © (GP)
B
Bodegas La Mano | Castilla y Leon Mencia Roble
25 Jan 2012
92/100
2006
UWS: 90/100
B
Bodegas Maurodos | Toro Prima
29 Feb 2008
90/100
2010
UWS: 90/100
This polished red exhibits harmonious flavors of black cherry, chocolate, licorice and mineral, with wellintegrated
tannins and fine acidity. Not showy, but retains depth and focus. Tinta de Toro and Garnacha. Drink now through
2020. TM
30 Sep 2013
90/100
The 2010 Prima has a lifted nose of raspberry and wild strawberry, although there is a very slight acetic nose that
just disturbs the aromatics. The palate has a slightly pinched entry with firm, robust tannins, a core of sweet, mocha
tinged fruit and a simple agreeable finish that is slightly attenuated. I feel that the 2011 will turn out to be the better
wine. Drink now. Bodegas y Vinedos Maurodos is one of the leading lights of Toro. Founded in 1997 by former
Vega Sicilia winemaker Mariano Garcia Fernandez, they own 60 hectares of vineyard in San Roman de Villaester
and Hornija, mainly planted with Tinta de Toro and Garnacha, the average age of vines around 35 years
interpolated with vines on ungrafted rootstock. The oak aging here is very prudent, with around 20% renewed each
year, both French and American. The present winemaker is Mariano's son Eduardo Garcia Montana, who trained in
Bordeaux and Burgundy among other regions. These exceptional wines were suffused with personality, purity, a life
affirming sense of controlled opulence that, to be frank, put many a more expensive Toro wine in its shade. What is
more, a bottle of 2001 San Roman testified to a Toro that truly does age with style and panache.
30 Apr 2013
88/100
Deep ruby. Powerful dark fruit aromas are complemented by notes of licorice, dark chocolate and candied violet.
Ripe and fleshy, like an '09, yielding intense cassis and bitter cherry flavors and a suave floral nuance. Finishes
chewy and long, with excellent clarity and soft tannins.
B
Bodegas y Vinedos Luna Beberide | Bierzo Mencia Luna Beberide
01 Sep 2012
91/100
2008
UWS: 90/100
The 2008 Mencia. It was raised in stainless steel and bottled without filtration. Dark rubycolored, it reveals an
enticing perfume of spicy black fruits. Concentrated and rich on the palate, it is dense and packed with spicy, savory
fruit. It is likely to evolve for another 12 years and develop additional complexity although it can be enjoyed now. It
is a sensational value.
30 Apr 2010
90+/100
404
UWS: 90/100
Red Wines Spain
The 2008 Mencia. It was raised in stainless steel and bottled without filtration. Dark rubycolored, it reveals an
enticing perfume of spicy black fruits. Concentrated and rich on the palate, it is dense and packed with spicy, savory
fruit. It is likely to evolve for another 12 years and develop additional complexity although it can be enjoyed now. It
is a sensational value.
B
30 Apr 2010
Bodegas y Vinedos Luna Beberide | Bierzo Mencia Luna Beberide
90+/100
2009
UWS: 92/100
color Cereza, Borde Violáceo. Aroma Potente, Varietal, Mineral, Balsámico. Boca Sabroso, Carnoso, Especiado,
Balsámico.
Guia Penin © (GP)
25 Jan 2012
93/100
The perennial Best Buy, the Luna Beberide Mencia, is unoaked 2009 Mencia and was bottled without filtration.
Purple in color with an expressive, already complex bouquet of earthy minerals, Asian spices, incense, and black
raspberry, this savory, ripe, balanced effort is a crowdpleaser that will drink well for another 34 years. As usual, it
is an outstanding value. Bodegas y Vinedos Luna Beberide is an excellent source of valuepriced wines from the
increasingly fashionable DO of Bierzo.
B
Finca Sobreno | Toro Crianza
30 Jun 2011
90/100
2005
UWS: 90/100
Rich, ripe, raisined, dark chocolate, Christmascake aromas and flavours are matched by high alcohol (14.5%) and
light but firm tannins. An ambitious and fairly concentrated style with slightly exaggerated ripeness, but in a year or
two this should be tasting really well. Fair price.
28 Jan 2012
90/100
28 Jan 2012
89/100
Finca Sobreno's 2005 Crianza is 100% Tinta de Toro aged for 7 months in American oak. Dark crimsoncolored, it
offers an enticing bouquet of cedar, mineral, blackberry, and floral notes. This leads to a ripe, supple, fullflavored,
spicy wine with excellent depth and balance. Although designed and priced to be consumed in its youth, it will evolve
for several years.
Fi
Finca Sobreno | Toro Crianza
2009
UWS: 90/100
The 2009 Finca Sobreno Crianza is a blend from vineyards older than 35 years, aged in American oak for nine
months. It has a pretty bouquet of blueberry jam and raspberry that is welldefined. The palate is wellbalanced,
with a smooth, silky texture, crisp acidity and a citrus, fresh, primal finish. It is a little compact at the moment but
should repay a couple of years in bottle. Drink 20142020. Bodegas Sobreno was established by a collective of
winemakers at the end of the 1990s, the winery located just a couple of minutes' drive outside the town of Toro. They
farm over 80 hectares of disconnected parcels of vine of which over half are in excess of 30 years old, augmented by
another 90 hectares from contracted growers. The three wines I tasted were all excellent in quality clean, very well
balanced, wellcrafted, and fruitladen without depriving them of personality and typicity.
30 Apr 2013
90/100
Bright violet color. Smoky perfume of candied cherry and dark berries with a spicy overtone. Pliant and velvety in
texture, offering gently sweet cherry and blackberry flavors that put on weight in the glass. Ripe and lively on the
powerful finish, showing gentle tannins and persistent sweetness.
Fi
Flavium | Bierzo Crianza
01 Sep 2012
90/100
2005
UWS: 90/100
Published by
90pluswines.com
eRobertParker.com
© (WA), Jay Miller
29 Feb 2008
405
90/100
Red Wines Spain
UWS: 90/100
29 Feb 2008
90/100
406
Red Wines Spain
Castilla La Mancha
Fl
Bodegas Atalaya | Almansa Atalaya
2010
UWS: 91/100
The excellent 2010 La Atalaya is a blend of 85% Garnacha and 15% Monastrell, 40 and 30yearold vines
respectively, grown on chalky and sandyloam soils and matured in French oak for 12 months, the varieties kept
separate until the final blend. It is a little taciturn on the nose at first, opening gradually to offer blackberry, cigar
box and a touch of wild mint. The palate is mediumbodied with plenty of crisp blackberry and bilberry fruit,
complemented by fresh plums and a splash of balsamic. This is very harmonious, the Monastrell lending the
Garnacha structure and tautness on the finish. This is wellcrafted and should age well. Drink now2020.
28 Feb 2013
91/100
(85% garnacha tintorera and 15% monastrell, from vines that are reportedly planted at between 700 and 1000
meters altitude; fermented in stainless steel tanks and then aged in French oak for 12 months; 15% alcohol): Inky
purple. Deeply perfumed nose features heady scents of dark berry preserves, violet and licorice. Sweet and perfumed
in the mouth, with a spicy kick to the intense blackberry and floral pastille flavors. Clings and clings, with an exotic
floral nuance carrying through the finish.
B
01 Sep 2012
Bodegas Mano a Mano | La Mancha Mano a Mano
91/100
2001
UWS: 90/100
Marquant le dixième anniversaire du passage de flambeau de Pierre Niotout aux Néel, ce vin montre que la flamme
est loin d'être éteinte. Sa robe d'un jaune d'or limpide annonce sa personnalité que précise le bouquet de fruits
confits, de miel et de cire d'abeille. Corsé et séveux, c'est un vrai liquoreux qui sera excellent à l'apéritif pendant une
dizaine d'années.
B
Bodegas Piqueras | Almansa Terra Grande Reserva
01 Jan 2004
2/3
2008
UWS: 91/100
31 Jul 2013
91/100
407
Red Wines Spain
Catalonia
B
Agricola Falset Marca | Montsant Etim
1999
UWS: 90/100
A blend of 85% Grenache and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, this sumptuous, thick, juicy 1999 offers knockout aromas
of black fruits and earth, outstanding ripeness, impressive purity, and a long, layered finish. Drink it over the next 3
4 years.
A
90/100
30 Jun 2001
Agricola Falset Marca | Montsant Etim
2007
UWS: 90/100
100% Grenacha Blanca Screwcap on this old favourite. Quite deep straw. Rich yet vibrant nose. Round and
mouthfilling with possibly the acid added but distinctive and good value. GV from Bibendum Wine.
A
Bodegas Alemany i Corrio Sot Lefriec | Penedès Pas Curtei
24 Jun 2009
16/20
2006
UWS: 90/100
88/100
29 Feb 2008
60% Merlot ,20% Carignan. 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. 10 months in oak (20% new) Very sweet, ripe, slightly dried
fruit. Smoky. Firm dry tannins and fresh finish. (JH)
B
09 Jan 2008
Bodegas Tomas Cusine | Costers del Segre El Vilosell
16,5/20
2005
UWS: 90/100
(50% tempranillo, plus cabernet sauvignon, merlot, garnacha and syrah) Opaque purple. Ripe cherry and plum
aromas complicated by exotic baking spices. Silky in texture and impressively deep, with a powerful bitter cherry
and dark chocolate character. A serious style that will benefit from aeration.
01 Sep 2007
88+?/100
The 2005 El Vilosell is composed of 50% Tempranillo, 26% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 9% Garnacha, and
5% Syrah aged for 9 months in new French oak. Purplecolored, it reveals a fragrant array of scents including
pepper, spice box, smoke, blackberry, black currant, and blueberry pie. Plush in texture, the wine is fullbodied, with
layers of spicy fruit, intense flavors, and wellconcealed tannins. Drink this superb value now and over the next 68
years.
B
Bodegas Tomas Cusine | Costers del Segre El Vilosell
28 Feb 2007
91/100
2006
UWS: 90/100
(50% tempranillo, 26% cabernet sauvignon, 10% merlot, 9% garnacha and 5% syrah) Opaque ruby. Cassis, violet
and cured meat on the nose, with slowbuilding oak spices. Licorice and mineral notes gain strength with air and
carry onto the palate, adding complexity to the sweet cherry and blackcurrant flavors. Finishes with good grip and
lingering dark berry notes. This is drinking very well right now.
01 Sep 2008
90/100
29 Feb 2008
91/100
408
UWS: 90/100
Red Wines Spain
(50% tempranillo, 26% cabernet sauvignon, 10% merlot, 9% garnacha and 5% syrah) Opaque ruby. Cassis, violet
and cured meat on the nose, with slowbuilding oak spices. Licorice and mineral notes gain strength with air and
carry onto the palate, adding complexity to the sweet cherry and blackcurrant flavors. Finishes with good grip and
lingering dark berry notes. This is drinking very well right now.
01 Sep 2008
90/100
29 Feb 2008
91/100
B
Buil & Giné | Priorat Giné Giné
2007
UWS: 91/100
Decanter © (DC)
26 Sep 2012
4/5
Half of the fruit for this juicy blend comes from young vines, half from oldvine cariñena and garnacha. The fruit is
delightfully red, prettier and more accessible than what has become typical in Priorat. There's refinement to the
acidity that lends the wine its nerve. For roast partridge.
01 Feb 2010
91/100
Very young and cooltasting almost callow, sweet and easy quite gentle and no very obvious oak ageing.
(a blend of garnacha and carinena) Vibrant ruby color. Primary red and dark berry aromas are complicated by
notes of licorice and potpourri. Juicy raspberry and blackberry flavors are given a firm edge by dusty tannins and
pick up a bitter chocolate note with air. The red fruits repeat on the finish, which is sharply focused and refreshingly
tangy. Serve this wine with a light chill.
B
Capcanes | Taragona Mas Donis Barrica
01 Jul 2009
88/100
2006
UWS: 90/100
(85% garnacha and 15% syrah) Rubyred. Spicy, mineralaccented blackberry and cassis aromas are complicated
by licorice and clove. The perfume builds with air, picking up floral and smoky mineral nuances. Zesty dark berry
flavors are given a refreshingly bitter edge by rooty anise and cracked pepper, with good backend lift. Finishes with
lingering sweetness and very good length. This is drinkable now but will hold up for at least another few years.
01 Sep 2008
90/100
The 2006 Mas Donis Barrica is 85% Garnacha (over 80 years of age) and 15% Syrah aged for 8 months in French
and American oak prior to bottling without fining or filtration. Dark ruby/purplecolored, the nose reveals scents of
cedar and chocolatecovered cherries. Ripe, sweet, and layered on the palate, the wine is nicely balanced and has a
pure, fruitfilled finish. Drink it over the next 23 years.
Ca
Castell del Remei | Costers del Segre Gotim Bru
2000
UWS: 92/100
There is only one word for a wine such as Castell dei Remei's 2000 Gotim Bru ... awesome! This unfined/unfiltered,
12,000case blend of 55% Tempranillo, 20% Merlot, and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon exhibits an opaque ruby/purple
color as well as sumptuous aromas of cedar, black currants, licorice, scorched earth, and graphite. It is fullbodied,
sweet, and rich, with fabulous purity and texture. This compelling wine will age well for a decade, although who
can resist the fullbodied, intense pleasures it currently offers. Readers seeking a restrained, politically correct,
wimpy wine should look elsewhere. Amazing stuff!
Ca
30 Jun 2002
92/100
2004
UWS: 90/100
The 2004 Gotim Bru is a blend of 60% Tempranillo, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 20% Merlot aged for 10 months
in French and American oak. Purplecolored, it provides a fragrant nose of spice box, tobacco, blueberry, and
blackberry. Firmly structured, medium to fullbodied,
and layered, this ripe, tasty wine should evolve for 23 years
409
but who is going to wait? It is an outstanding value.
Red Wines Spain
UWS: 90/100
The 2004 Gotim Bru is a blend of 60% Tempranillo, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 20% Merlot aged for 10 months
in French and American oak. Purplecolored, it provides a fragrant nose of spice box, tobacco, blueberry, and
blackberry. Firmly structured, medium to fullbodied, and layered, this ripe, tasty wine should evolve for 23 years
but who is going to wait? It is an outstanding value.
28 Feb 2007
90/100
Deep ruby. Intense dark cherry, licorice, espresso and vanilla notes on the nose, with floral and spicy elements.
Quite spicy and concentrated, with intense flavors of bitter cherry, dark plum, cassis and licorice. Tangy acids
provide lift, and there's an impressive penetrating quality to the dark fruit on the long finish. This is drinking
beautifully right now. (European Cellars, Charlotte, NC)
Ca
01 Sep 2006
90/100
2005
UWS: 90/100
(60% tempranillo and 20% each of cabernet sauvignon and merlot) Opaque ruby. Ripe, brooding kirsch and
blackcurrant aromas are further deepened by licorice and espresso. A real black hole on the palate, with slowly
unfolding dark fruit liqueur flavors, chewy tannins and a long, sweet, compotelike finish. This should be great with
grilled or braised lamb. Very serious for this price. (Eric Solomon Selections, Charlotte, NC)
Ca
01 Sep 2007
90/100
2006
UWS: 90/100
Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot. Black cherry, but not much definition. Maybe needs a bit of time to
develop? (RH)
21 Apr 2009
15,5+/20
Ca
Celler Acustic | Montsant Acustic
29 Feb 2008
90/100
2006
UWS: 90/100
The 2006 Acustic is a notable value composed of 55% Samso and 45% Garnacha aged for 10 months in French oak.
Dark ruby/purple, it exhibits a fragrant bouquet of cedar, spice box, mineral, and black cherry. This leads to a
smoothtextured, elegant, sweetlyfruited wine already revealing considerable complexity. There is some silky tannin
lurking in the background which will allow this tasty effort to drink well through 2020.
Ce
Celler Can Blau | Montsant Can Blau
2010
UWS: 91/100
This red is expressive, racy and dense, delivering black raspberry, licorice, [i]garrigue[n] and mineral flavors, with
a nice balance of sweet and savory. Harmonious and alluring, in the modern style. Mazeulo, Garnacha and Syrah.
Drink now through 2020. TM
Ce
Celler Can Blau | Montsant Can Blau
30 Sep 2013
91/100
2011
UWS: 90/100
Rich yet racy, this expressive red delivers black raspberry, kirsch, chocolate and balsamic flavors in a plush texture,
with ripe tannins and citrusy acidity. A bold, Published
modern style.
Drink now through 2019. TM
by 90pluswines.com
410
15 Oct 2014
90/100
Red Wines Spain
UWS: 90/100
Rich yet racy, this expressive red delivers black raspberry, kirsch, chocolate and balsamic flavors in a plush texture,
with ripe tannins and citrusy acidity. A bold, modern style. Drink now through 2019. TM
Ce
15 Oct 2014
Cellers Jaon d'' Anguera | Tarragona
90/100
2009
UWS: 90/100
Joan d'Anguera's unoaked 2009 Garnatxa (100%) was fermented with native yeasts. It offers up an alluring perfume
of earthy minerals, spice box, and ripe black cherries. Sweetly fruited, smoothtextured, and plush on the palate, it
will provide considerable pleasure over the next 56 years. It is also an excellent value.
30 Jun 2011
90/100
Bright ruby. Vibrant, highpitched aromas of raspberry, candied cherry and rose, plus a hint of white pepper. Pure,
racy red fruits and a sexy floral quality on the seamless palate. Expands on the finish while maintaining a bright,
lively character. This is delicious right now.
Ce
01 Sep 2010
Cellers Jaon d'' Anguera | Tarragona
90/100
2010
UWS: 90/100
Vivid rubyred. Highpitched aromas of raspberry, cherry and fresh rose, along with a sexy note of Asian spices;
smells a lot like a New World pinot noir. Bright and juicy, with pliant red berry flavors and a late kick of white
pepper. Offers very attractive fruity character and shows no rough edges on the long, focused finish.
Ce
01 Sep 2011
Cooperativa El Masroig | Montsant Sola Fred
90/100
2009
UWS: 90/100
(90% carignan and 10% grenache): Bright purple. Intense, perfumed aromas of cherrycola, black raspberry and
violet, with a suave mineral underpinning. Juicy and precise, with very good clarity and lift to its dark fruit and
floral pastille flavors. Repeats the mineral and floral notes on the finish, which lingers with very good persistence.
This is balanced to age.
01 Sep 2011
91/100
Best red under £10. Unusual gunpowder aroma on the nose sulphur problem? Definitely showing more matchstick
than fruit. On the palate, round and ripe but with a definite sulphur tang and pretty tart acidity. (RH)
C
Etim | Montsant
12 Jul 2011
15/20
2007
UWS: 90/100
color Cereza, Borde Granate. Aroma Fruta Madura, Especiado, Roble Cremoso, Tos

White Wines Australia

Transcription

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