Al-Balad - Jordan Tourism Board

A walk around
A walk around
Al-Balad
Downtown Amman
Al-Balad
Downtown Amman
To get to the heart of Amman it is imperative to
explore al-Balad, the historic downtown that lies in
the wadi (valley) created by the ancient Sayl Amman
(Amman River). Ammanis are welcoming people,
and they are happy to have you explore this vibrant
core of their home and workplace. Take the pulse of
the city as you follow this walk through the souqs
(markets), shops, restaurants and historical sites
of al-Balad. Taste the city, feel its energy, meet its
people, and enjoy the experience of al-Balad. Ahlan
wa sahlan, a Jordanian welcome you will hear often
says “you are part of the family, and there are no hills
between us!”
Looking up from al-Balad the domineering acropolis
on top of Jabal Qala’a (the Citadel), which served as
the holy site for worship and sacrifice for the people
of the city for more than 2,000 years, can be seen.
Stairs linked the downtown area with the acropolis,
so that worshippers could easily ascend to the
temple complex. Today Amman still offers visitors
a unique horizontal and vertical landscape, with
its hilltops and wadis (valleys) connected by stairs
– a unique feature you will notice throughout this
part of the city, and which remains to this day a key
feature within the communities.
During Hellenic, Nabataean and Roman times, what
is now al-Balad was the site of a thriving oasis trading
city known as Philadelphia (City of Brotherly Love). It
was part of the Roman Decapolis city network where
traders, acting troupes and soldiers passed through
the oasis on their way to the cities in the west or
north to Damascus. Under the Byzantines and then
the Umayyads the city expanded to cover much of
the valley floor, with regional bureaucrats ruling from
the heights of the acropolis overlooking it.
From the 12th to around the 17th century, however,
the city slowly dwindled and died as trade routes
and imperial attention shifted elsewhere.
but failed, to take Amman on 18 March, 1918. With
Allied advances, by late September 1918 the Turkish
4th Army were forced to flee, and on 26 September the
ANZAC Mounted Division captured the village. British
troops remained in the town until December 1919.
On 2 March 1921, Emir (Prince) Abdullah arrived in
Amman from the Kingdom of the Hijaz with about
500 troops. At that time the town was home to around
6,000 people, who proceeded to decorate the town
in anticipation of his arrival and to accompany him
to the mayor’s house singing national Arab songs. By
April he had agreed with Winston Churchill that he
would rule Trans-Jordan from Amman with support
from British airpower, a new 750-man Arab Legion
force, and two armored cars located in the city. This
was the foundation of the Jordanian state.
Al-Balad quickly grew as a thriving locale of merchants
and eateries, places of worship and meeting places.
Amman in history
A walk around
Al-Balad
Downtown Amman
Jordan Tourism Development
Project (Siyaha)
Amman is both an ancient city and a modern urban
metropolis. In its wide valley floor, which was once
fed by a regular flowing river, inhabitants of the
oasis planted crops and hosted long distance trade
arriving from the north, west and south. The history
of the area now known as al-Balad can be traced
back through the millennia and it was inhabited
at least as far back as 6,700 BC. Tomb and temple
remains from the Middle Bronze Age (1700 BC)
indicate on-going habitation of the floor of the wadi.
The Ammonite city-state, centered around RabbathAmmon in what is now al-Balad, emerged after
1200 BC. As you stand in the midst of downtown
and look around you, it is clear why the Ammonites
built a ring of fortresses on the mountain tops (jabal)
around their valley home to protect it from surprise
attack.
Though today fewer West Ammanis come to al-Balad
to do their shopping, preferring the newer shopping
malls that have sprung up around the city, the core
of al-Balad remains vibrant with street life, restaurants
and cafes, perfumeries, souqs (markets) and punters
looking for bargains.
Modern Amman
In the 19 century modern Amman sprang,
phoenix-like, from the scattered ruins around the
valley floor. In 1878 Circassian refugees from Russian
military advances in the Caucasus were resettled
amid the ruins of al-Balad, thus starting the settling
of numerous refugee arrivals. Mud dwellings were
built and by 1905 when the great Hijaz Railway was
being constructed many found work building or
protecting the new rail link. Amman hosted a station
on the line from 1904, and by 1909 the town was
large enough (3,000 people) to have its first mayor
and municipal council.
th
The Ottomans built an army base here, and during WWI
it became a hub for communications. Overlooking
al-Balad, on Jabal al-Ashrafiyyeh, near to where the
distinctive black and white Abu Darwish Mosque now
stands, Australian and British Desert Corp troops tried,
Where to start your
discovery of al-Balad?
Al-Balad is the traditional market area of Amman
where you can find almost everything - and for much
less than you would pay in the western suburbs. As in
many markets, the initial price is usually higher than
will be accepted, so feel free to bargain with a smile.
Tip: Al-Balad is always busy and visitors are always
welcome, but remember that Friday is a Muslim
holy day, and so shops may be closed that day or
will close during prayers. As a sign of respect it is a
good idea to dress conservatively when exploring
al-Balad.
6
1
Start your walk at King Hussein
(or Husseini) Mosque.
This is one of the oldest mosques in Amman, rebuilt by King
Abdullah I in 1932 on the site of an older mosque built by
the second Caliph, Omar Bin Al-Khattab around 640 AD. The
mosque is pink and white striped on the outside, but through
the grille you will notice a rainbow of color inside. The great
Muslim historian, al-Maqdasi, describing Amman in the late
10th century, said that “in the area of the souq, there is a fine
mosque, whose courtyard is decorated with mosaics.” Tourists
may be able to enter if dressed appropriately. Photographs
are not allowed inside. On Fridays and during the fasting
month of Ramadan worshippers spill out into the streets in
front of the mosque to pray, temporarily halting traffic.
and maybe some purchases before taking the left turn. After
a short distance turn left again, passing by numerous shops
that will excite your senses, selling nuts, spices and dried
herbs all beautifully displayed and presented for purchase by
individual weight.
4
A few minutes walk ahead you will notice the
Nymphaeum.
2
As you stand in the small square in front of King
Hussein Mosque (with your back to the mosque),
look to the left across King Talal Street where you
will see a blue sign for Souq Bukharia.
Souq Bukharia, a fantastic shopping area for souvenirs
ranging from lamps to tiles and prayer beads to teapots, was
founded in 1929 by a group of Bukhara Muslims who had
fled the new Soviet government in Bukhara. As you explore
the narrow souqs you’ll be surprised at how much is hidden
away in these shopping areas, which appear so small from
the outside.
3
From the same spot in front of King Hussein
Mosque, turn to face the mosque and look to the
left, at the end of the mosque, and you will see
the entrance to Souq Al-Sukar (Sugar Market). It
was named after its founders, the Sukar family.
The Mamlouks started processing sugar cane in mills
throughout the valley, and between the 13th and 16th
centuries the whole valley was a major global production site
for sugar, while the wadis (valleys) of Jordan were its export
routes. This was one source of the “Damascus Sweets” industry
that has given the world baklawa and kanafeh. It is also the
source of candied fruits and sugar-coated nuts “Jordan
almonds”, which became popularly linked with weddings
around the Mediterranean. Enter the Souq and enjoy the
hubbub created by the merchants as they call out what is for
sale from a wide range of fruit and vegetables, to nuts, pasta
and spices. Walk straight ahead (explore the alleys to the left
to experience the energy of this bustling market but be sure
to return to continue the walk), take the first turn right at the
only right hand turn before the end of the market. At the
end of this short street notice Kabatilo and other shops for
spices on the right corner where you can enjoy the aroma
private sector financial institution
in the Arab world. The headquarters
were moved to Amman in 1948 as
the result of the war. Today it has
the largest Arab banking branch
network world-wide, and has helped
thousands of Jordanian businesses
develop. The Shoman Foundation,
set up in 1978 and funded by the
bank, has given grants to support
the education of thousands of Arab
students at universities abroad,
and provides funds to encourage
scientific research and increased
intellectual cooperation around the
Arab world.
Retrace your steps back to the Nymphaeum
turning right between ABC Bank and the
Nymphaeum and continue by the fruit and
vegetable sellers on your left to the cross section
(you will notice a police booth in the centre of
the road). Turning left, cross the street and take the first right
turn into a street that is jam-packed with shops presenting
numerous traditional dresses and costumes in every shade
and hue imaginable. As you continue straight another
street will merge - keep to the right to ensure not to miss
the Gold Souq (Gold Market).
Built in 191 AD it is one of the lesser-known
Roman archaeological sites in al-Balad. The
Nymphaeum, dedicated to river nymphs, was
with the city’s water source fed by the Sayl
Amman – the river that ran through the wadi.
At the Gold Souq, lit up by the hue of gold vying for attention
through the windows, jewelry of every shape and style
imaginable (both gold and silver) hangs to tempt passers by.
Wander into and among the little alleys off to the right and
see where most of Amman buy their wedding trousseau. The
traditional 21-carat gold of the souq is sold by weight, and so
the fine workmanship is essentially a gift. If you are the first
customer of the day, you might be part of an old gold souq
tradition and receive a special discount from the merchant so
as to bless the day with an early sale. Enjoy bargaining here for
whatever takes your fancy.
5
Staying back on the main road
with the Nymphaeum on your
left, follow Quraysh Street (Saqf
Sayl) for 100 meters until you see
brown signs in English and Arabic
on the far side of the street indicating the
Roman Theater bearing off to the right.
Follow the signs past the Tourist Police kiosk
and down the steps to the colonnade along
the front of the theater.
The Roman Theater, originally designed to hold 6000 people,
with officials and rulers closest to the stage, the military in
the middle and the hoi polloi nearest the top, is believed to
have been built by Emperor Pius between 138-161 AD. It was
restored in 1970. Still used frequently in the spring, summer
and fall for civic activities ranging from concerts to graduation
ceremonies, this site is the iconic core of al-Balad, reminding
us of the ancient history of the oasis. Don’t forget to look across
from the Roman Theatre to the Citadel commanding the heights
above the city. There is a story that there is a tunnel leading from
the stage to the top of the Citadel which Roman leaders used to
ensure their privacy.
Within the grounds of the Roman Theatre, take time to
enjoy the Folklore Museum and the Museum of Popular
Traditions, each located to a side of the stage. Both contain
a wealth of mosaics, jewelry, traditional household goods and
Islamic battle standards to admire and examine.
Also visit the Odeon, to the right when you exit the theater.
This has a more intimate stage with about 600 seats and is
believed to have been covered and used mostly for lectures.
Near this site were the first buildings to house the Royal Court after Emir
Abdullah arrived in Amman in 1921. The hill to the right of Jabal Qala’a
(the Citadel) is Jabal al-Qosour, where you might catch a glimpse of
the huge Jordanian flag flying over the Royal Court compound there.
The armies of the Arab Revolt first camped there after Amman was
liberated from the Turks, since it overlooked both the strategic Amman
train station on the Hijaz Railway and the aerodrome at Marka. Emir
Abdullah had Raghadan Palace built on the site in 1926 as the new
base of the Royal Court.
9
Immediately further along King Faisal Street, just
beside the Arab Bank building and at the corner
of a bookshop kiosk, there is a small street known
as Habibah Alley. In the alley, on the right, is the
original Habibah for sweets.
This sweet shop sells two types of kanafah, Jordan’s favorite
sweet which is a must-try. Everyone knows that the best
kanafah in the Middle East is made by the people from Nablus.
It should be no surprise then that Habibah was founded in
1952 by Nabulsis who migrated to Amman, and though there
are now a number of outlets throughout the city, this one is
the most famous and an al-Balad tradition.
Stop and try
There are several fresh fruit cocktail stands along this route, and
elsewhere downtown. Be sure to stop and try one.
7
Back out at the entrance to the Gold Souq
fronting on King Faisal Street near Time Center
Shop, you should find a small peanut stand
known as Sudani nuts.
Buy a bag of freshly roasted peanuts from the vendor and
participate in a classic tale of migration and survival in the
Middle East. Omar Barnawi (Abu Ahmed), the founder, left
Nigeria as a young man heading to Mecca on the Hajj. He
became stranded in Sudan (hence the name Sudani) for a
time then found his way to Jerusalem, where he sold roasted
peanuts outside Damascus Gate. With the war in 1948, Abu
Ahmed fled to Amman where he set up his stand at the
entrance to the Gold Souq and became a fixture of al-Balad’s
landscape. Sadly, Abu Ahmed has passed away, but his son
and grandsons have taken on the business and are happy
for you to stop by their cart and sample nuts. Once finished
continue straight ahead.
8
Make sure that you look right at the Arab Bank
building at #22.
Although the bank’s current headquarters are
outside al-Balad, this was the original headquarters.
The Arab Bank has had a profound impact on the
Middle East. Founded by Abdel Hameed Shoman
in 1930 in Jerusalem, the Arab Bank was the first
10
Overhanging the street almost above
Habibah is the Duke’s Diwan.
This is one of the oldest, well preserved stone buildings in
the heart of Amman. Built in 1924 it caught the attention
of Mamdouh Bisharat, the “Duke of Mukheibeh”, who
immediately leased the building and set it up as an example
and pioneer project to stand up to the onslaught of concrete
and aluminum “culture” with the aim of keeping the city’s
authenticity and character alive in the collective memory
of its inhabitants. The Diwan’s doors are always open for
talents, new and old, whether it’s music, writing, painting,
poetry or drama. Casual discussions on the history of Amman
regularly take place with guests and participants including
royals, intellectuals, writers, poets, artists, historians, students,
friends of ancient Amman and local and international visitors,
who drop by and are welcomed into the Duke’s Diwan and
immediately understand that the Diwan lives up to its name
– Diwan in Arabic means the section of the house where the
doors are always open to guests.
Stop and try
Opposite the diwan is a first-floor café with a balcony overlooking the
street with flags of the world painted on the wall. This is Balat Al Rashid,
or Eco Tourism Café. It’s a good place to grab some Arabic coffee, play a
game of backgammon or watch the buzz of downtown life.
11
Walk a few meters and the road will veer right and
take you outside Habibah (a larger dine-in version
of the famous kanafah outlet) and also to al Quds
restaurant. Directly across the street there are a set of stairs.
Go up the stairs noticing one of the many old-fashioned
barbershops popular in al- Balad on your right. At the top of
the stairs follow the aroma to find Abu Ali’s on the left.
Abu Ali’s is one of the only places
in Amman where you can buy the
Arabic sweet qatayif outside of the
month of Ramadan. Resembling a
mini pancake, these are traditionally
stuffed with either white cheese or a
mixture of nuts and spices, and folded
over. Qataiyif are sold by the kilo; ask for
“nus kilo lo samaht”, which means “half
a kilo, please”. They are usually made in
the early afternoon.
Stop and try
Try some Jordanians sweets at either Habiba (a larger branch of the one
next to Arab Bank) or Jabri. Al Quds restaurant is an extremely popular
restaurant that serves local dishes, including the national dish of mansaf.
12
Retrace your steps back
to the bottom of the stairs
and turn right, passing
the tempting sweet shops and turn
right again at the corner. Keep a
lookout to your right and in a small
bustling alleyway of tables you will
see the famous Hashem Restaurant.
Although Hashem Restaurant has a limited menu, it is
perhaps the most well-known restaurant in Amman, and
everyone eats here, including the Royal Family. Started by
Hashem al-Turk in the 1920s, Hashem is open throughout
the day whether for a late snack or an early breakfast. Ask for
everything - plain falafal, falafal stuffed with onions, hummus,
fool (tasty faba bean paste), bread and French fries. Cups of
tea (no coffee), water and everything on the menu will not
cost much - maybe JD5 for two people. It’s possibly the most
typical Jordanian meal you can find.
Stop and try
Enter the little alleyway beside ‘Asmak Sarah’ where you will find a couple
of the oldest bar/restaurants in Jordan (in that alley and the one parallel
to it). Auberge and Abu Ahmad, have been open since the 1930s. You
can order dishes at these restaurants or if you feel like seafood go across
the alley to Asmak Sarah, pick what you want and tell them where to
send it. Or try some falafel from Falafel Fouad, also in this alley.
13
Continue straight and the road veers to the right.
After a few meters you will reach the Jordan Post
Office. Directly across the street, in and among
the DVD stores, is a large wooden door leading to a covered
alley; this is the entrance to Jafra Café
The Café delightful sunny
balcony over the main street
offers a wonderful place to
people-watch. Enter the
alley and go up the stairs
in the back to get to the
cafe. This is a welcoming
place where you can soak
up the atmosphere while
you smoke a shisha (water pipe), eat Middle Eastern food
or sip tea, amongst locals of all backgrounds and traditions,
catching up and maybe listening to an oud player singing of
his lost loves. As you leave Jafra, notice the Arabic Hammam
(bath) at the bottom of the stairs. Men might want to book a
bath for later in the afternoon.
You can end your tour here, or continue exploring downtown.
Head to the Jabal Amman visitor information center on Rainbow
Street for more walking trails and information about Amman.