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«
Editorial
Land of the Loire Valley and the Atlantic
Ocean. The Pays de la Loire was undoubtedly born a water sign, but the postcard
would be incomplete if we did not mention
the green countryside that surrounds the
beautiful wetland. Over 18 million visitors visit
this eclectic region each year, which makes
it the third biggest tourist destination in
France – and not by chance. For many years
now, tourism has gained importance throughout the Pays de la Loire region.
The diversity of the land and the variety of accommodation comes as no surprise. Whether
you are looking for the calmness of a small
‘cité de caractère’ or the buzz and entertainment of the tourist beaches, all visitors will
find something that ‘floats their boat’ in the
Loire Valley. All 5 departments of the Pays de
la Loire – Loire-Atlantique, Maine-et-Loire,
Sarthe, Vendée and Mayenne – have their
own distinct characteristics which attract tourists in their own right. The special edition
magazine that you are holding in your hands
hopes to help you (re)discover a rich combination of history and nature. From the charm
of the Vendee islands of Yeu and Noirmoutier, to that of the Mancelles Alps, via the
marshlands of Brière, the vineyards of Angers, Saumur and Nantes. It has one aim: that
you pay a visit to the Pays de la Loire for your
summer holiday.
Claude SAULAIS
Nantes
Contents
1 : Editorial and contents
2 and 3 : In brief
4 and 5 : Dates for your diary
6 to 13 : The coastline
8 : Le Croisic, fishing harbour
9 : St-Gilles the left, and right banks
10 and 11 : Two islands, two very different ways of life
12 : Paved in white gold
13 : Coastline activities
14 to 27 : The Loire and nature
16 : The wild riverbanks of the Loire
17 : An Abbey bursting with culture
18 and 19 : The Normandie-Maine and Loire-AnjouTouraine Natural Parks
20 and 21 : The Brière Park and the Poitevin marshes
22 and 23 : Outdoor activities
26 and 27 : The valleys of the Mayenne and the Sarthe
24 and 25 : Tourist map of the region
28 to 35 : A cycling destination
30 and 31 : The Loire ‘by bike’ a royal affair
32 : Velodyssée, a journey from the North to the South
33 : The Mancelles Alps: the Sarthe’s answer to the Alps
34 : Along the paths of the Mayenne
35 : 1000km of cycle paths in the Vendee
36 to 41 : In town
36 and 37 : By night
38 and 39 : The green pastures of Nantes and the bright
lights of Angers
40 and 41 : Le Mans, Laval, Saumur, Cholet…
42 and 43 : Discover the ‘Petites cite de caractere’
44 and 45 : Vineyards of the region
46 and 47 : Ideas for a family day out
48 : A souvenir of your stay
«Summer Holiday in Pays de La Loire »
is a free supplement jointly published by the newspapers Ouest France, Courrier de
l’Ouest, Maine-Libre et Presse Océan, in association
with the pays de la Loire region
Editor : Claude Saulais.
Editorial : Anne-Marie d’Argentré, Antoine Gazeau, Cédric Soulié, Sébastien Rochard
Photography : Nathalie Bourreau, Michel
Plassart, Antonio Bozzardi, Olivier Blin, Bégé,
Michel Durigneux, Manuel Thiéry, Dominique
Drouet, JC Rocand, Sylvain Bonniol, Bruno
Schoch, Simon Bourcier, Jean-Dominique
Billaud, Joël Damase, R. Etienne, Fabien Lepeltier, service iconographique de l’agence
régionale des Pays de la Loire. In coverage,
La Vendee, photo Joël Damase
Page layout : Pré-presse du Courrier de
l’Ouest, Stéphane Suard, Maguy Cordier
Printing : IPS, Pacy-sur-Eure (27)
Publication and marketing : Precom, agence
de Nantes, 18 avenue Jacques Cartier
BP 70 109, 44 817 Saint-Herblain CEDEX
Translation from french to english : Michelle
Smyth
With thanks to : l’Agence régionale Brigitte
Paulmyer, Cécile Lusseau-Rossi
2
IN BRIEF
IN BRIEF
Le jardin de la Chabotterie
The Chabotterie garden in Saint-Sulpice-le-Verdon is a must
see for any ‘green-fingered’ visitor to the Vendée. There is a
700m long footpath which leads you from the woods to the
manor house. The site also boasts a beautiful commemorative
walled garden which marks the scene of the arrest of General
Charette in 1796.
Terra Botanica
The first European botanical garden, Terra Botanica can be
found just on the outskirts of Angers. Terra Botanica offers its visitors a fun, yet educational trip
through the plants of the world.
In only its second year, the park
will be entering its fourth season
and boasts 40 different attractions within the large grounds.
Golfer’s paradise
Pays de la Loire is a typical golfer’s paradise. The
region bears host to 34
golf courses (14 in Loire
Atlantique, 9 in Maine-etLoire, 6 in Vendée, 4 in the
Sarthe and 1 in Mayenne).
Some of the best 18 holes
in France can be counted
amongst them, such as
la Bretesche in Missillac
which surrounds the ruins
of the castle. A stone’s
throw from there in
Saint-André-des-Eaux is
France’s largest golf course on some 220 www. ligue-golf-paysdelaloire.asso.fr
hectares, with three, 9 and 18 hole courses.
There are also some more rural courses like
St-Jea-des-Mauvrets or Solesmes so there’s
something for everyone.
www.jardinspaysdelaloire.fr
The Secret gardens
Denazé
‘Le jardin secret du Grand Boulay’ can be found in Denazé,
south of the Mayenne. Henri
and Patricia Sidler have refurbished the acre-and-a-half of garden over the past 20 years, and
the many colours and flowers
on display are testament to the
inspiration they have drawn
from all corners of the globe:
Japan, England and the Caribbean.
St-Cyr-en-Talmondais
The 1,4 ha floral and tropical
park in the Court d’Aron has
been open to the public since
1977. Situated between Luçon
and Les Sables-d’Olonne, take
a world tour of tropical plants,
such as Egyptian papyrus, eucalyptus, Japanese iris and
lotus flowers.
Clisson
The Garenne Lemot was designed by French sculptor, François-Fréderic Lemot, and he
certainly left his mark in this garden with colonnades and statues dotted around. Gétigné,
which fronts onto the Chateau
de Clisson on the banks of the
Sèvre, brings a Tuscan feel to
the Loire.
Le Lude
The Jardin de l’Éperon mimics
the elegant façade of the Louis
XVI. At the foot of the majestic
Chateau Renaissance du Lude
you will find a pleasant scattering of plants and flowerbeds.
At the edge of the garden is a
grotto where you can escape
for some shade and welcome
fresh air.
Maulévrier
Oriental’s Park of Maulévrier
near Cholet invites you to get
lost in its dream world. It is the
18 million
biggest Japanese garden in Europe, and is a favourite amongst
not only the green-fingered but
also those new to flora and
fauna. Walking around the site,
you can experience life in Japan
with pagodas, Japanese lanterns and mini bridges around
the meandering river.
This is the number of visitors to the Pays
de la Loire in 2011, staying in various types
of accommodation.
Visiting businesses
Since 2001, ‘Visitez nos entreprises en Pays de la Loire’ (visit
our businesses in Pays de la
Loire) has been in place to give
tourists an insight into the industry of the region. Some of
the larger towns, like Angers,
have their own ‘Made in Angers’
tour which has become an annual event. It gives tourists the
chance to discover regional
specialities.
For more information visit
www.visiteznosentreprises.com
The valley of castles
The Loire Valley is renowned for
its castles, which are dotted
around the region. The Ducs de
Bretagne castle in Nantes and
the Chateau of Saumur, or the
castle of Angers are just examples of some of the more regal
buildings, but there are many
more, including Tiffauges, Clisson, Craon, Montmirail, le Lude.
3
4
INTERVIEW
Q & A with Jacques Auxiette
Président of the Region Pays de la Loire
1 What big events is the
region supporting this
year?
The Pays de la Loire region are rich in all sorts
of events every year.
We support over 120
cultural events every
year and over one hundred sporting events
Photo DR : Conseil Régional. M.Auxiette
which all have different
financial and touristic appeal. I don’t have
a preference over big or small events – they
all attract their own crowds and a different
dynamic.
Some of the bigger events that we play host
to this year are the ‘Folle Journée’ which
takes place during the annual music festival
in Nantes and in 10 other towns around the
region, Hellfest in Clisson, ‘Les Escales’ in
Saint-Nazaire, ‘Le Chainon Manquant’ and
the ‘Trois éléphants’ in Laval and les ‘Accroche-cœurs’ in Angers. In terms of sporting events we have a very high level of
sport in the region and play host to many
international events. This year even moreso
than usual as we are hosting games for the
U20 Rugby World Cup, the Women’s European Basketball Championship and
Handball Golden League.
EVENTS
Some of the many events for 2013
Anjou Vintage Vélo Anyone can enter but on condition
that your mount dates back to 1987. The 2013 edition
is from 22-23 June and is expected to be historical in
all aspects of the word. Starting in Angers, the ‘Retro
1903’ will follow the banks of the Loire all the way to
Saumur.
www.anjou-velo-vintage.com
The Le Mans 24 Hours. On 22 and 23 June, the mythical
race will celebrate its 90th anniversary. 1923 marked
the birth of what has become motorsport’s event of the
year and the point of reference in endurance racing.
2013 will see Audi and Toyota battle against one another for glory in their hybrid motors.
wwww.lemans.org
Le Puy du Fou. Start on 8 June on Vendée, the ‘Puy du
Fou Spectacle’ will take place. Over 90 minutes combining 1,200 dancers and actors, 24,000 costumes,
23 hectares of staging and an audience of 10 million
since the begining, it is a record-breaking event.
www.puydufou.com
La Nuit des Chimères. Througout the summer months,
the ‘Nuit des chimères’ lights up the ancient quarters of
Le Mans. Amusing silhouettes come to life on the walls
of the old town and some of the beautiful monuments
like the city’s towering cathedral. Free to enjoy from
dusk in July and August.
www.lemanstourisme.com
Festival ‘Les 3 éléphants’. For two days, 24-26 May,
Laval will once again be at the heart of a famous festival
incorporating modern music, street theatre and artists.
The festival is a mixture of covered and open air events.
www.3elephants.com
Les Rendez-vous de l’Erdre is a jazz festival that takes
place between 29 August and 1 September around
Nantes. Over 150,000 spectators are expected to
come to this annual event.
www.rendezvouserdre.com
2 Do you think that the region has enough
events or should it try to create new ones?
I don’t think that quantity of events even
needs to be considered. It’s important for
the region that we have strong and quality
dynamic events that can assemble a large
audience and provide entertainment for the
crowds. It’s a vicious circle. Each event
needs good transport and tourist links. An
event that attracts a lot of people is great
but we then have to work out the logistics
for each event. We have to think about
what is best for the general public also.
When we initiate the welcome of le Chainon
Manquant to Laval, it’s because the festival
brings a cultural and artistic asset to the
area. When we support a race like ‘La Solidaire du Chocolat’, it’s because the project
combines both sporting life and solidarity.
Behind every event there are important values and that is what justifies our support.
3 Is this why the region supports so many
cultural activities?
The region is the amalgamation of all of the
departments and we are responsible for
La Folle Journee will be one of the main cultural events
of the Pays de la Loire
many things including the educational and
financial development of the area. This
remit allows us to help out with major
events in the region. We have some very
precise criteria that we follow to evaluate
the interest for each event be it cultural or
sporting. Each event has a history within
this area. Our support depends a lot on the
local economics. From a cultural point of
view, we often support events that have already been backed by a group or a organisation. Even though the state won’t pay
towards such events and festivals, the region is able to contribute from an artistic
point of view.
4 What political allegiances do you see being
made to ensure that the support is strong over
the coming years?
Our political allegiances have formed over
many years. We must ensure that the tax
payer’s money is being spent wisely particularly in the current financial recession. It
is important that any spending is directly attributable to the development of the region,
be that environmentally or socially. Everyone is responsible and should bear this in
mind but I’m also very conscious that the
dynamics of the region should not be penalised.
5
COASTLINE
7
HORIZONS
The Atlantic
Coastline
The shores of the Pays de la Loire span the North and
South of France. Between Brittany and Aquitaine, the
long coastline welcomes a diverse vegetal habitat
onto the Atlantic coast. The Pays de la Loire makes
up 383km of the French coast and boasts 208km of
sandy beaches. From Mesquer to L’Aiguillon-sur-Mer
passing through La Baule, Le Pouliguen, Pornic, Saint
Jean-de-Monts or Les Sables-d’Olonne, there are almost 30 different beachside resorts to choose from.
Unlike the oceanic rainstorms of the English Channel
and Brittany, and the stormy regions of Landes and
the Gulf of Gascogne, the coastline of the region has
something of a micro-climate, and the annual temperature range is just 13 degrees.
Picture caption in French atlantic coast
The micro-climate of the Vendée coast is
perfect habitat for many vegetal species
Words Antoine GAZEAU - Photos Michel PLASSART
COASTLINE
9
Saint-Gilles,
the left and the right banks
Saint-Gilles–Croix-de-Vie
is one of the most charming ports of the Pays de
la Loire situated along the
Atlantic coast.
trolling along the seaside resort of
Saint-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie is opting
for a lifestyle of relaxation. Try sunbathing on the ‘Grande Plage’, tucking into
the churros and pomelo, sitting down for a
quiet drink on the outside terraces before
adventuring into the sand dunes of the Garenne. Smell the fresh sardines as they
come in from the sea; a flotilla of 66 boats
and 156 fishermen specialise in sardines.
S
Le Croisic is a fishing port but also
a tourist destination
Photo Manuel Thierry
Le Croisic, lovely fishing harbour
Le Croisic is by no means the largest port in the region, but its long quays and traditional sea festivals definitely put it amongst the most charming of harbours.
t is best known for its fishing industry,
but Le Croisic is also a very attractive
port and tourist destination. The harbour brought the town to prominence in
the 16th Century. From here, salt from the
nearby marshes was exported and traders
from Northern Europe brought wood, iron
and coal. Le Croisic is very proud of its title
‘Petite cité de caractère’ (small town of
character). In the Loire Atlantique department, only Piriac-sur-Mer has received
such an honour. The recession in 2010 hit
the port hard and, but for the determination
of its inhabitants, Le Croisic nearly saw its
last ship sail.
I
The harbours of le Croisic and neighbouring La Turballe joined forces to complement each other’s fishing offering rather
than competing with one another. Together with internet sales and the distinguishing
specialities
between
the
neighbouring communities (langoustine in
Le Croisic and cuttlefish in La Turballe),
their 21st Century strategies have paid off.
Those fishermen that were leaving for pastures new are returning to their beloved
port.
out to sea to go fishing. Marc Burgot and
Le Croisic will always be known as a fishing
port for 33 boats, shared with hundreds of
fishermen and thousands of passionate
tourists. It is the 25th largest in terms of
catch tonnage and 20th in catch value, but
it is also a beachside tourist resort welcoming an average of 20,000 visitors per
month. For health and safety reasons, it
has become very difficult to take tourists
centre for cockle farming. The tourist office
his team of fishermen can take up to 20
amateurs aboard for half a day’s fishing.
Sago Ty’Lou also offers leisure fishing trips
to tourists. Le Croisic is also France’s main
has developed the Route des Coquillages
One of the most charming ports of the Loire
Valley situated along the Atlantic coast.-
www.payssaintgilles-tourisme.fr
(shellfish trail) along which you can visit
producers, take guided tours, eat at recommended restaurants and view the
cockle
beds.
While
these
activities
are mainly aimed at French speakers,
you can download an MP3 in English from
www.zevisit.com
Unique holidays with Enpaysdelaloire.com
■ Sea
It’s a tale of two riverbanks. In 1967, two
communities on either side of the banks of
the river Vie combined to become SaintGilles-Croix-de-Vie. ‘Rive droite’ – the right
bank – is the former capital town SaintGilles-sur-Vie. Here you can find the seaside resort with restaurants, shops and a
funfair. Rive gauche is where you will find
Croix-de-Vie and the picturesque Moroccan quarters. Since 1967 the ‘Pont de la
Concorde’ is no longer seen as the division
between the two communities, but as a
symbol of unification.
fishing in Pornichet
Discover the unique experience of sea fishing, under the supervision of a keen guide and
instructor, in the bay waters located just offshore from Pornichet and La Baule. Enjoy a
quick getaway in a three-star hotel near the beach in Sainte-Marguerite and take a relaxing
dip in the swimming pool.
From €199.50 per person. (min. 2 persons) • 2 days/1 night • Includes: 1 night in a three-star hotel in a
double room, breakfast, ½ day sea fishing outing departing from Pornichet. Valid: from April to November 2013.
Pornichet Tourism Office: +33 (0)2 40 61 33 33.
THE OTHER PORTS
La Turballe
Les Sables-d’Olonne
Over 300 fishermen disembark daily in the
biggest fishing port in the Pays de la Loire.
The area is renowned for its sardines and
anchovies, and a trip on one of the sardine
boats is often encouraged by the locals.
This port is home to 68 fishing boats, and
a walk down the white paved streets of La
Chaume will give you an idea of their pride
in their local produce.
L’Herbaudière in Noirmoutier
This port is more commonly known for its
naval construction and the fishing industry
is still very prominent in the town. Behind
the submarine base is a favoured spot for
shrimp and grey prawn fishing.
The most important fishing port of the Vendee island is the largest producer of sole
on the Atlantic coast.
Saint-Nazaire
Port-Joinville,
on l’Île d’Yeu
Previously one of the
biggest tuna ports in
France, the recent
change in legislation
has meant that the
150 local fishermen
have had to spread
their time between various types of fishing.
10
COASTLINE
The island of Noirmoutier boasts
some of the most beautiful beaches
of the atlantic coast
Photo Dominique Drouet
TWO ISLANDS,
two diﬀerent ways of life
Yeu or Noirmoutier? It is a question often asked by tourists hesitating between which
island they should visit. Both are charming but have very different backgrounds…
aves crashing against the rocks,
a medieval castle in ruins – The
Island of Yeu was the inspiration
for the French illustrator, Hergé, who created the Ile Noire (The Black Island). L’Ile
d’Yeu can be found on the wild coast, between the ‘pointe du But’ and the Corbeaux, it is almost like being on the west
coast of Ireland.
W
Unlike its neighbouring island, Noirmoutier
offers countryside similar to that of nearby
towns of Charente-Maritime, Ré and Oléron. Its salt marshes are the livelihood of
many inhabitants and have been for over
1,600 years. Noirmoutier and Yeu are two
islands, two postcards. Obviously the two
pearls in the Vendée are very similar. Let’s
start with the beaches. Between the
dunes and the coves, Yeu has many different types of sand. Noirmoutier, however,
is a favourite for windsurfers, particularly
Barbâtre, the Bois-de-la-Chaize and the
more family-based sandy beaches of La
Guérinière.
A certain amount of similarity between is
evident when you wander the streets of
Ker Pissot, Port-Joinville and Saint-Sauveur in Yeu and those of the Banzau quarters
behind
the
Château
de
Noirmoutier-en-l’Ile. It offers the typical
French seaside image of the small, whitewashed fisherman houses with quaint blue
shutters.
Cheese or dessert?
The choice between Yeu and Noirmoutier
is similar to the after dinner conundrum of
cheese or dessert. Since 1971, a bridge
has connected Noirmoutier to the mainland, but to get to Yeu you need to go on
a car ferry. In Yeu, the bicycle is king of the
roads as there are seldom any motor vehi-
cles. Island of Yeu, unlike Noirmoutier, is
full of small artisans as opposed to the
large agricultural cooperatives that have
become the norm in Noirmoutier.
However, oyster farming is definitely not
Yeu’s specialism; Noirmoutier’s Bourgneuf
bay trumps it in that respect. The island,
known as a sailing resort, is passionate
about nautical life, from its Port de Plaisance of l’Herbaudière to its naval
construction museum. Yeu is less of a
sporting destination but definitely offers a
more stunning backdrop. So, when asked
to pick between cheese or dessert, just
pick both: Noirmoutier & Yeu.
■ Heading for l’île d’Yeu
The island is a true nature lover’s paradise. Hike around the island to discover its most beautiful scenery the wild coasts, Meule’s port, the old castle and fishermen's villages, to name
just a few of its treasures.
From €148 per person. (min. 2 persons) • 2 days/1 night • Includes: boat transport to and from Fromentine
or Saint Gilles Croix de Vie, two-star hotel accommodation (one double room), breakfast, bike rentals (2 days)
or a guided tour of the island by bus (3 hours), dinner (excluding beverages), an itineraries brochure and the
local tourism tax. Valid: until the end of 2013. Parenthèse Océan Voyages: +33 (0)2 51 54 09 88
Ile d’Yeu. Photo Manuel Thierry
Yeu
and Noirmoutier,
Islands
full of charme
The same little houses, the same whitewashed walls and the quaint blue
shutters the same memories of the old
fishermen. There some kind of similitary
between Yeu and Noirmoutier.
12
COASTLINE
COASTLINE
Marshes are paved with white gold
13
Barefoot fishing
A real hit for a family outing.
Cockles, mussels, crabs and starfish; the coast of Le Croisic is bursting with crustaceans and shellfish.
Daily quotas must be respected.
Call the maritime information office
on 00 33(2) 40.23.06.56 for more
information.
“It takes 30 days for the
salt in the ocean to end up
on your plate!” In the salt
marshes of Guérande, the
locals tell stories about salt
to the children.
The top family resorts
etween two channels the children
and their parents all sit down, listening intently. Everyone waits their
turn; the tourists dip their fingers in the puddles. “It tastes like the sea,” exclaims little
Jeanne. “Precisely, and it’s salty,” explains
the guide, standing up amongst his audience. “This salt is what the salt farmers
(paludiers) are looking for. It’s a bit like hunting for treasure.”
B
With kids clubs, nannies, crepes,
huge sandy beaches and more, La
Baule, Les Sables d’Olonne, Pornic, Saint-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie and
Saint-Jean-de-Monts have got all
the diversions you’d want on a family holiday.
photo Dominique Drouet
Anaig is a gold hunter; a white-gold hunter.
She spends her days in the salt marshes
that have been around for over 1,500 years.
Like 15 or so other local salt farmers and
some of the tourist guides from Terre de Sel
in Guérande, she tells her story and explains
her passion for her craft. After the story-telling is the pottery class where the children
make a bowl out of the local clay and pour
in some water. ‘The sand here is totally waterproof,‘ explains the guide, ‘and on this
spot where we’re all standing it’s about 610 metres deep. The soil got here through
sedimentation a long time ago. Look at
this…‘
Anaig’s attentive listeners zigzag behind
her, in and out of the salt channels. To her
left proudly stands the Guérande church
and in the distance you can make out Le
Croisic, Batz-sur-Mer, Le Pouliguen, La
Baule and, even closer, the ocean…thanks
to the marshes and the channels the flow of
the water is slowed down. A heron stops
to have a rest, and some seagulls shelter
from the wind. “It’s a guaranteed food store
for the birds, a bit like having their own larder. Where the salt farmers hunt for our
gold, the concentration of the water is as
The salt farmer’s home
It takes 30 days for the salt in the ocean to end up on your plate
strong as in the Dead Sea.” To put this into
perspective, in the Atlantic Ocean you generally find 30-35g of salt per litre but the
ocean bed in the salt marshes holds 280g
per litre.
Small rocks of salt start to form and crystallise, glistening in the sunlight. The combination of the wind and the sun helps the
water to evaporate and maximise the
amount of salt. “Every day each salt ring
collects up to 50kg of sea salt. Each day
the salt farmers come up to collect 2-3kg.
There are almost 300 salt farmers to cover
the 2,000 hectares of marshland.
There were some tough times for the salt
farmers of Guérande when the salt was
deemed to taste of clay, there were threats
of a new marina and dips in sales, but they
now work as a cooperative so that they
never run out of stock. Over time, these
men and women of the marshes have collected lots of labels and certificates for the
Guérande salt. Thanks to them the salt
really is their white gold and makes for a
great story for the kids.
■ A week-end retreat in Pornic
Indulge in a relaxing weekend away from everything. On Saturday, take a long walk around
the fishing harbour. On the following day, explore the local market before going to the Alliance therapy center for the second part of your exploration. On Sunday, take a break...
From €145.50 per person. (min. 2 persons) • 1 night/1 spa day • Includes: 1 night, breakfast included, in
a two-star hotel near the old harbour, Sunday “take a break” activities: entrance to Espace Forme (wellbeing
centre with an exclusive 33° C aquatic journey, swimming pool, etc.), lunch, 3 individual spa treatments, and a
snack. Valid: until the end of 2013 (+ €8 in July and August). Pornic Tourism Office: +33 (0)2 40 82 04 40.
If a trip to the salt marshes and channels doesn’t
quite take your fancy, you can always go and
visit the ‘Maison des Paludiers’ - the salt farmer’s
house - in Saillé. A guided tour will explain the
local heritage and the importance of salt in history and its significance to humans.
Thalasso land
Pays de la Loire is also the birthplace of thalassotherapy using
natural minerals and springs. In
Loire Atlantique you can have a
relaxing spa break in La Baule,
Pornichet, Guérande or Pornic,
but the best are in Saint-Jeande-Monts and Les Sables
d’Olonne. Treat yourself!
www.terredesel.fr
Nautucal trips and excursions
On with your costumes
The traditional medieval fair in Guérande will take
place on 1 and 2 June. Over 500 participants
will take to the streets and keep you entertained
with juggling, theatre productions, horse shows,
all while dressed in period costumes. It is a notto-be-missed event in Guérande.
A trip on a canoe, in a kayak or
even a sail along the seafront; in
Pays de la Loire you can discover
so much along the rivers and in
the sea. A great way to explore
and discover the local flora and
fauna. This is an activity suited for
all ages and abilities.
www.ot-guerande.fr
www.balades-nautiques.enpaysdelaloire.com
Photo Jean-Claude Rocand
Route du Sel
2
2
ÉCHOS
ÉCHOS
The region
that was born
a water sign:
PAYS De LA LOIRe
The Loire is the longest river in France. It starts its journey from source
in Mont Gerbier-de-Jonc and crashes its way to the Atlantic Ocean
along 1013km of riverbanks. These are the facts that French children
are taught at school. What isn’t mentioned in the geography books
is the sheer beauty of this royal river. With its tributaries branching off
throughout the region, and with the additional rivers of the Sarthe, the
Loir, the Mayenne, the Edre and the Sèvre nantaise in Nantes, the
Pays de la Loire region really is surrounded by water.
Photo Antonio Bozzardi
2
NATURE
ÉCHOS
17
An Abbey
bursting
with culture
From the towers of the
monastery to the jail, the
Royal abbey of Fontevraud
is a contemporary city and
a cultural witness of the
past, present and future.
“
Words Sébastien Rochard - Photos Antonio BOZZARDI
The wild riverbanks of the Loire
Jean-Patrick Denieul is a man who has spent over 40 years living alongside the river.
I
can’t go a day without paying a trip to
the water’s edge.” The son of a policeman, he arrived with his parentsand
suitcases at just 10 years of age in MontJean-sur-Loire (Maine-et-Loire), Jean-Patrick has made a career out of his river. For
the past 20 years he has spent his days recounting stories about his past, of local legend and fishermen’s tales passed down
to him, to the passengers aboard his boat.
Jean-Patrick is a fisherman himself. “When
I was a toddler, the policeman’s house was
just on the banks of the Loire. I would fish
for plaice with my fork!” Away from the river
he was goal-keeper for the local football
team but, in his own words, “he wasn’t the
academic type.” In the 1980s, his life took
a definite path and changed his life forever.
“I met a girl and her Dad was a fisherman.
It didn’t take long before I became one too.
Back then we could fish whatever we wanted and whatever we caught we could
keep. Nowadays it’s becoming a lost art.”
From then on the Loire became somewhat
n the Grand Dortoir of the Fontevraud
Abbey, ten or so small boats have been
set up on the ground for visitors to have
a lie down in and catch their breath. “Mort
en été”, the production by Claude Lévêque,
is based in the Abbey. “It is a chance to reflect, to reveal the emotions that the Loire
has always evoked in me,” the artist explains. It is also an example of what the
Abbey of Fontevraud means today. A cultural hotbed immersed in history but also resolutely contemporary. “It is an exceptional
place from all points of view,” explains David
Martin, appointed Director General for the
regional public society responsible for the
Abbey. “It has a unique history, the architectural scale of the the building is unique
but there is also modernisation. Throughout
the years, the Abbey has always been in
conflict with the times.” It is a living heritage
that visitors discover all year round. The artists are at ease here and are free to get lost
I
This Royal river gives its name to the Loire Valley
which it traverses from the East to the Pays de la Loire region
of an obsession for the 50-something. “I
have read I don’t know how many books
about the area, from historical books to folklore. My stories and talks have changed
over the years. I’m not a guide; I’m a storyteller. I like the guests on board my boat to
leave with a better understanding of the
River Loire. The Loire has changed a lot
over the last few decades. Far too much
for one generation to have witnessed but
that is our own doing and we must accept
it.”
The riverbanks will always remain tame but
not so much so that they lose their wildness. The diversity on offer through the
flora and fauna is beautiful and it moves at
the same rhythm as humans.” Jean-Patrick Denieul isn’t the type who thinks the
river should be cordoned off and left as it
is. For him, it has always been a synonym
of openness and belongs to everyone. It’s
just a question of respecting one’s environment
www.valdeloire.org
Words Sébastien Rochard Photos Antonio BOZZARDI
The Royal abbey of Fontevraud is one of the most prestigious elements of
the Pays de la Loire heritage. But it is far from being the only one.
in their creative thoughts. Cesaria Evora and
Maurice Béjart spent a time here in the
1980s. The Centre Culturel de l’Ouest
(which has presided over the decisions
made for the Abbey since 1975) and the artistic society, with notably cinema, theatre
and music productions throughout the
summer, have created a beautiful union
over time. “Working at the Abbey means attracting and bringing people to another planet, another universe,” describes François
Delarozière, artistic creator of Les Machines
in Nantes. Their productions of “Symphonie
Mecanique” and “Le dîner des petites mecaniques” are nowbased at the Abbey.
Touristic hotspots
of the Val de Loire
Tourists can also let their imagination
run wild in the alleys of the Chateaux
d’Angers, Saumur (photo) and Nantes,
wnot forgetting to pay a visit to the
Brissac gardens or the moats of Brézé.
Not far from there you can also revel in
the cavalry on display at the Cadre Noir
of Saumur and those of the Ecole Nationale d’equitation which is also based
in Saumur.
www.loire-chateaux.org
www.abbayedefontevraud.com
■ Spend a culinary week-end in the Saumur region
Discover the local culinary customs and the rich architectural heritage of the Saumur region:
Fontevraud Abbey, Saumur Castle and those very strange troglodyte caves.
From €125 per person. (min. 2 adults) • 2 days/1 night • Includes: 1 night, breakfast, tour of the Combier distillery, self-paced visit of the Fontevraud Abbey, 1 gourmet dinner (French aperitif, appetizer, main course, cheese
and/or dessert, 1 glass of wine per person), tour of a Saumur Brut cellar with wine-tasting, tour of a mushroom farming
site, lunch in a troglodyte restaurant that includes “fouées” (small breads baked in traditional wood stoves), 1 cookbook
with 36 tasty recipes and 1 notebook. Valid: all 2013 weekends except January, subject to availability.
Saumur Tourism Office: +33 (0)2 41 40 20 67
photo Dominique Drouet
NATURE
19
Loire Anjou
Touraine preserving
for the future
The Normandie-Maine regional park spans over two regions (Pays
de la Loire and Basse Normandie). It covers 257,000 hectares,
50,000 of which are mainly forests and woodland.
photo Simon Bourcier
The wild flowers of the Regional
Natural park Normandie-Maine
The Vallee du Rutin in the Sarthe is a welcome sight for amateur flower lovers. Anemones and wild orchids are in full bloom between the peak months of April and July.
n the spring, the sight of the fields covered in anemones is stunning. Found just
north of the Sarthe, near Villaines-la-Carelle and Saint-Longis, the valley is tucked
away from the major road networks taking
commuters and tourists over to the neighbouring Orne. Well known by botanists,
“this part of the park is renowned for its natural beauty and flowers. Orchids and anemones grow wild as well as many other,
rarer plants,” explains Cyrille Delattre, manager of the park. She has an encyclopaedic knowledge of the flowers that live in the
Vallee du Rutin.
Crouched down on the valley floor, the
young lady carefully, and with an expert
eye, spots another rare, bright blue flower
hidden amid the long grass. Amongst the
wilderness, the nearby rocks offer a natural
protection to many flowers. The pasqueflower, a type of anemone, with its bright yellow centre, is typical of the part of the park
we are walking through. The park is also
renowned for the wide variety of orchids
that can be found here, blossoming along
dead trunks of wood or in ditches.
I
Orchids are well hidden to the untrained eye
These small, delicate flowers won’t be
found in a hurry. Take your time: park your
car and then walk into the heart of the
woodland and carefully train your eye to
pick up the colourful petals in the undergrowth. The limestone soil along the cliffs of
the Vallée du Rutin means that there is a
lack of flowers, but it does lend itself to rich
biodiversity. In the programme Natura
2000, Cyrille Delattre is championing an effort, along with local elected council members, to conserve the local specimens.
“Over here on the Huperies cliff, we are
trying to encourage local farmers to put their
livestock in this area so that it doesn’t turn
into wasteland.”
After a short stroll through the fields full of
flowers, you can go off and explore the
neighbouring Foret de Perseigne. From the
vantage point at 340m altitude, the panoramic view over the Saosnois and the Alençon
countryside goes on for miles. The rolling
hills, the outline of church spires: on a really
good day you can even see the Cathedral
of Le Mans, some 45km away.
www.parc-naturel-normandie-maine.fr
Words Anne-Marie d’Argentré - Photos Olivier BLIN
“
The Regional Natural park
Loire Anjou-Touraine aims
to protect and preserve
dozens of areas within the
region whilst keeping them
open to the public. Discover them for yourself…
Words Sébastien ROCHARD - Photos Antonio BOZZARDI
Y
ou can eat this one, but you’d not do
it twice!” he says, half-serious, halfjoking and pointing to what appears
to be a toadstool.
Jean-Luc Ranger, the president of the
Science Nature and Heritage association of
Saumur, is a remarkable man. His spectacles on a string around his neck, there’s not
many mushrooms that escape his eagleeye this sunny afternoon. A few kilometres
from Saumur, on the Verrie racecourse,
Jean-Luc seeks out a large variety of different species with his specialist eye.
His areas of expertise are “the 6,000 different types of mushrooms that you can find
in Maine-et-Loire. I think I’ve probably tasted about 150 of them”. That’s a lot more
than most people, especially when you
consider that only 30 of the 6,000 were edible! Never eaten any by mistake then,
Jean-Luc? “Absolutely not, in mycology we
say that it takes you 15 years before you
start making fewer mistakes!” With roughly
10 outings a year, Jean-Luc and the other
70 or so members of the association share
their knowledge and experiences through a
partnership with the park.
Created in 1996, the Loire Anjou Touraine Regional Natural Park has a presence
in 141 of the villages in and around the Loire. It costs just €1 per habitant to be
a member. A large part of the park falls within the UNESCO world heritage site.
Photo Sylvain Bonniol - Visuelles
How many types of mushrooms?
Created in 1996, the park has a presence
in 141 of the villages in and around the
Loire. They organise a variety of activities
and innovative projects that are sadly not
widely known about.
But this weakness has become its strength,
and their aim of protecting some of the ra-
rest areas within the region, along with educating the locals and tourists, has been well
appreciated. From local heritage sites, to vineyards, astronomy, fauna and educational
walkways – there are almost as many activities offered by the park as there are mushrooms in the Loire!
www.parc-loire-anjou-touraine.fr
NATURE
21
Stories about
Green
Venice
Welcome to the second
largest wetland in France
(just behind the Camargue)
where the well-named
Green Venice makes you
forget the blue of the
ocean.
There are almost 300 thatches roofs in Brière which
represents 60% of French thatched architecture
Thatched cottages of the Brière marshes
In Brière, Loire Atlantique, within the 20,000 hectares of marshland to the north of
Saint-Nazaire, it’s as if time has stopped but the traditions of thatching roofs continue…
A
young lady sketches the design of
a big, two story, thatched house.
“This is what not to do…” In charge
of the landscape and urban redevelopment
in the Natural Regional Park de Brière, Virginie Benoit has become something of an
expert on 21st Century thatching.
No longer little windows which meant the
inhabitants of Briere lived inside in the dark,
now wide windows are allowed “It’s all
about adapting traditional crafts to the modern way of life without losing the traditional element.”
The thatched roof is what red brick is to
those from the north and little blue shutters
are to those on the west coast in the Vendée – a symbol of identity, heritage and
pride. The village of Kerhinet in Saint-Lyphard is a modern-day thatched museum.
18 thatched cottages have been completely restored to their original glory by the
park. As soon as you step through the
door, you can go back in time and see
what life was like under the roof of a Brière
thatched cottage. The thatch is about
45cm thick and overhangs slightly, which
protected the materials that were used to
fortify the structure.
“Lots of families
would live under each roof. Each fireplace
represented a family,” said Virginie standing in front of one home which had four
chimney breasts...
60% of France’s thatched properties
can be found here
In the Camargue, the thatched profession
has become almost industrial, but the 8
market squares and 21 villages share in
Brière’s sovereignty as the leaders in thatched roofing in the percentage of properties that have held on to their ancestral
tradtions. The ground in Brière is a lot softer than in other marshes that border the
Mediterranean, where it is impossible to
build anything as the ground dries up so
quickly.
It is interesting to note that 90% of the
thatch that is used on the roofs in Brière
actually comes from the Camargue, the
rest from Holland, China and a small percentage from local marshland. From December to February the few brave enough
to cut the local reeds can be counted on
one hand. Claude Broussart has been a
roofer for a long time. “The inhabitants of
Brière would earn their living in the shipyards and in the evening, when they returned home, they would cut down the
local reeds to sell to the craftsmen. It was
just additional revenue to them; it was
never their full-time job.”
Even if the reed cutters weren’t making
much money, the 10 or so local roofers are
not going out of business. The villages are
now reliant on their traditional craftsmen;
“95% of the local properties are made from
thatch which counts for 60% of the total
French thatched roofs…” For years, the financial support of the public sector has
meant that many of the properties that had
been neglected have been restored. “A
century ago, thatch was the material of the
poor,” smiled Virginie Benoit. “Now you
need to have some money behind you.”
“It’s about 20-30% more expensive than
slate,” confirms Claude Broussart.
www.parc-naturel-briere.fr
mmersed in the stagnant water, the long
wicker basket is intriguing to the passersby. “It’s a fishing basket made from
willow to trick the eels. Not so long ago
we used to catch 2- 3 kilos per basket.
Now it’s a good day if we catch just one or
two eels.” Maxime is just 18 years old but
he still remembers what it was like when
he was growing up. When tourists chat to
him from the pier at l’Abbaye de Maillezais
he recounts plenty of folklore to them.
I
Starting with the most famous, that of the
‘Golfe des Pictons’ which is said to have
submerged the whole region 6,000 years
ago. Dotted with islands of limestone, just
like those in Maillezais, it gradually turned
into swampland and the nearby monks
dried the land around it from the 11th to
13th Centuries. The Hundred Year War
and many religious battles devastated the
fruits of their hard labour, but it was Dutch
engineers that finally won through. Under
their leadership the locals dug over
4,500km of trenches.
The labyrinth of ditches still exists, even if
two-thirds of them have now disappeared.
Standing proud in his boat, Maxime
plunges into the dull light of a private fishing area. Very quickly the waters turn
greener. Older folk on the boat explain that
when the rich families whose homes
backed onto the river had a birth in the family, they planted a commemorative tree.
“Everything grows in marshland.” And the
proof is around us with an array of pine
trees and redwoods; an exotic jungle right
in the middle of the marsh.
You can jump on board for a trip along
‘Green Venice’ from the Maillezais pier
4,500 km of canals
Under the poplars, the young elms and the
ash trees, short stories have been told for
years, such as the story of the otter – the
ghost of the marshes – a protected species since 1972. It became nocturnal and
you would hardly know it existed but for
the footprints and tracks it leaves behind.
It is much more common to come across
a moorhen, a heron or a coypu (ragondin).
“These animals lived in the marshes of
Louisiane and were introduced here for
their fur,” explains Maxime. The people of
the marsh had a better use for the ragondins: ‘ragondin pâté’ became a veritable
symbol of local gastronomy.
The boat cuts through a carpet of algae.
The boatman grabs his lighter from his
pocket and gives the water beneath him a
stir with his paddle. Just one spark from
the flame and the water’s alight. As the vegetation decays, methane is created. Sometimes science gets the best of his
stories. The pier itself is a hub of great stories which have evolved over the years.
Each year, some thirty or so teenagers
from the surrounding villages tell stories of
the marsh to tourists on their weekend, just
like Maxime does. “They are passionate
about their environment and sharing their
knowledge,” says Didier Moreau, director
of the pier. What’s more, dozens of pensioners take up the reigns and tell their stories during the weekdays. All in all, over
400 boatmen are here, navigating and
story-telling their way through the channels
and, for many, they are the best years of
their lives.
www.marais-poitevin.com
■ The Green Venice
Waterways, green landscapes, and centuries of prestigious history and architecture: the
marshlands of the Poitou region present the richness of a vast natural heritage for a perfect
weekend expedition.
From €113 per person. (min. 2 persons) • 2 days/1 night • Includes: guestroom accommodation, breakfast,
dinner (excluding beverages), bike rentals for the day, tickets to the Abbey of your choice, a commented bark
tour (1 hour), a hiker's descriptive map, and the local tourism tax. Valid: until the end of 2013. Parenthèse
Océan Voyages: +33 (0)2 51 54 09 88
22
NATURE
NATURE
23
© photo Simon Bourcier
Donkey promenade
Le Mont des Avaloirs
Walking alongside a donkey is something all children
enjoy. In Gesnes-le-Gandelin you can book a donkey
trip for a couple of hours or for several days. Don’t
worry about your bags, he’ll carry those.
www.lesdomainesdelane.fr
Situated in the North East of the Mayenne in the Multonne
Forest, the Mont des Avaloirs, at 417m altitude, is the highest peak in the West of France. In good weather, from
the viewing tower you can see the Mont Saint-Michel.
www.mayenne-tourisme.com
Off the boat and onto the carriage
After your boat trip or a visit to the abbey at Maillezais, Fanny and Jerôme can take you in their lovely
horse-drawn carriage. They have done this for several years, and also hire out their wooden caravans. www.baladeencaleche.com
Saddle up in Anjou
As well as being famous for its wine
and heritage, Anjou is also renowned for its equestrian history. The
best way to discover all three is to
book a trip on horseback with an
equestrian centre in Aubance, the
Val de Loire and the Château de
Brissac. Call the Brissac-Loire-Aubance Tourist Office for more information + 33(0)2.41.91.20.50.
www.loire-aubance.fr
Hire a fishing cabin
A treehouse in Brûlon
Perched in the trees, the Kota Cabana is in the
grounds of the Chateau de l’Enclos. Five metres above
ground, squirrels and birds become your company.
From the decking you have fantastic views over
the green valley and the Sarthe countryside.
www.chateau-enclos.com
Troglo – a taste sensation
It’s difficult to stay in Saumur and not have a detour via
the Troglo des Pommes Tapées in Turquant. It is a restaurant based around the medieval culinary technique
of smashing apples, which are then served with various
local delicacies. www.letroglodespommestapees.fr
Maraichain gastronomy
In the ‘Marais Poitevin’, the local delicacy is flatbread ‘le préfou’. It’s made from butter, salt and
slivers of garlic for an authentic flavour. It was first
made in a bakery in Fontaines. ‘Le farci poitevin’
– a type of vegetable stuffing - is also very much
a delicacy but every family has its own recipe.
Quaint fishing cabins adorn the landscape along the estuary. You can
hire a cabin for a day, a week or a
weekend. Some of the most popular
cabins can be found in Préfailles, La
Plaine-sur-Mer or Corsept. For those
of you not visiting for the fishing, there
are beautiful walks along the estuary.
www.prefailles.fr
Eco-tourist spot
© photo Bruno Schoch
Accrobranches in Saint-Léonard-des-Bois
Take a break in Bréca
Tucked away in the Alpes Mancelles, close to SaintLéonard-des-Bois, the adventure park in Gasseau offers five routes to speed through the foliage and 70 different workshops, all up in the trees, including monkey
bars and zip wires.
www.parc-aventures-du-gasseau.com
Geese, cows, the quietness of the little port of Bréca
in Saint-Lyphard lets you step back hundreds of years
through all the seasons. You can go on trips like in the
olden days, either by paddle boat or horse-drawn carriage. For more information go to :
www.parc-naturel-briere.com
The dried out marshland
An exceptional eco-tourist site on the
outskirts of Laval can be found in the
old limestone quarries. For a family
holiday rich in history and nature, you
can stay in a tipi, yurt, tent or cabin.
Just 3km from Laval ‘Echologia’ is a
campsite which gives you the opportunity to try out plenty of different activities including archery, swimming
and gardening.
www.echologia.fr
The largest area of the ‘Marais Poitevin’ is dried
up so you can organise a visit to the Chaillé-lesMarais in the Maison du Petit Poitou in an old
farm. + 33 (0) 2 .51.56.77.30
© echologia
Parc Naturel Régional
Normandie Maine
Les Pays de la Loire
2
Pontmain
ÉCHOS
Jublains
Parné-sur-Roc
Golf course
Daon
Nyoiseau
Derval
Treffieux
Guémené-Penfao
Oudo
n
Noyant-La-Gravoyère
Nozay
Ballon
Montmirail
Segré
La Melleraye-de-Bretagne
Vibraye
St-Denis-d'Anjou
Ecuillé
Le Plessis-Macé
r Durtal
Loi
Marcé
Malicornesur-Sarthe
St-Calais
Yvré-l'Evêque
Spay
Mulsanne
Ecommoy
Le Grand Lucé
St-Biez-en-Belin
Forêt
de Bercé
Mayet
Luché-Pringé
Bessé-sur-Braye
Poncé-sur-le-Loir
Jupilles
La Flèche
Clefs
Champagné
Sargé-lès-Le-Mans
Parcé-sur-Sarthe
Chenillé-Changé
ChâteauneufChampigné
sur-Sarthe
Le Li on -d'An g er s
Forêt du Gâvre
Pays du Perche Sarthois
Le Mans
Brûlon
Asnièressur-Vègre Louplande
Solesmes
Sablé-sur-Sarthe
Châteaubriant
High speed TGV and regional train station
Meslaydu-Maine
Château-Gontier
Craon
Beaumont-surSarthe
St-Pierre-sur-Erve
Saulges
Cossé-le-Vivien
Regional Natural Park
and inter-regional Park of
Poitou Marsh
Vivoin
La Ferté-Bernard
Silléle-Guillaume
Ste-Suzanne
Laval
UNESCO world
heritage site
Regionally awarded parks ands gardens
ic
Le Crois
Evron
Montsûrs
Theme park
Forêt
de Sillé
Pays des Coëvrons
House boat marina
Museum
Mamers
Villaines-la-Juhel
Chailland
Nationally recognised town of heritage
Forêt de Perseigne
St-Léonard-des-Bois Arçonnay
Fresnay-sur-Sarthe
Zoo / Aquarium / animal park
Historical landmark
St-Pierre-des-Nids
Bais
Seawater therapy centre
Petites cités de caractère
ÉCHOS
Mayenne
La Pellerine
Tourist office
Pré-en-Pail
Lassay-les-Châteaux
2
Ambrièresles-Vallées
Gorron
La Chartre-sur-le-Loir
Château-du-Loir
Pays de la Vallée du Loir
Le Lude
La Chapelle- Missillac
Feneu
Echemiré
des-Marais
Blain
Avrillé
Ecouflant
St-GildasBaugé
des-Bois
Herbignac
Nort-sur-Erdre
St-Molf
Mesquer-Quimiac
St-Lyphard
St-Barthélémy-d'Anjou
Ponchâteau
St-Georges-sur -Loire
Parc Naturel
ChamptocéPiriac-sur-Mer
Trélazé
sur-Loire
Régional de Brière
La Turballe
Savenay
Vigneux-de
Savennières
St-Mathurin-sur-Loire
Ancenis Montjean-sur-Loire
Guérande
-Bretagne
Blaison-Gohier
Blaison
Gotier
Le Croisic
Oudon
La Possonnière
St-Jean-desSucé/Erdre
Treillières
St-André-des-Eaux
Béhuard Mauvrets
St-EtienneLe Thoureil
Batz-sur-Mer
ChalonnesSt-Florent-le-Vieil
Les RosiersSt-Nazaire
Carquefou
de-Montluc
sur-Loire Denée
Brissac-Quincé
Le Pouliguen
St-Laurent-des-Autels
sur-Loire
Paimbœuf
La Varenne
La Baule
Le Fuilet
Gennes
BeaulieuParc Naturel Régional
ChênehutteFrossay
Pornichet St-Brevin-les-Pins
sur-Layon
St-Sébastien-sur-Loire
Loire-Anjou-Touraine
Trèves-Cunault
Sainte-Christine
Sautron
St-Michel-Chef-Chef
Le Loroux-Bottereau
LouresseSaumur
St-Herblain
Beaupréau
La Plaine-sur-Mer
Rochemenier
Loire
La Boissière-du-Doré
Port-St-Père
Montsoreau
Forges
Turquant
Préfailles
Haute-Goulaine
Vallet
Aubigné-sur-Layon
FontevraudLa Haye-Fouassière
Chemillé
Pornic
La Bernerie-en-Retz
Brézé
Doué-laLe Coudrayl'Abbaye
Pays du Vignoble Nantais
Les Moutiers-en-Retz
Macouard
Fontaine
Clisson
Bourgneuf-en-Retz
Vihiers
NoirmoutierMontreuil-Bellay
Gétigné
Cholet
St-Philbert-deLe Puyen-l’Ile
Maulévrier
Grand-Lieu
Machecoul
Notre-Dame
Tiffauges
Barbâtre
Ile de Noirmoutier
Rocheservière
Le Lude
Montaigu
Beauvoir-sur-Mer
Mortagne
Les
Landes
La Barre-de-Monts
St-Sulpice-le-Verdon
-Génusson sur-Sèvre
Legé
Les Brouzils
Mallièvre
Notre-Dame-de-Monts
Chavagnes-en-Paillers
Challans
Les Epesses
Les Lucs-sur-Boulogne
Les Herbiers Le Puy du Fou
St-Jean-de-Monts
Palluau
Commequiers
La Flocellière
Soullans
Port-Joinville
St-Mesmin
Le Poiré-sur-Vie
Apremont
St-Hilaire-de-Riez
Ile d'Yeu
Mouchamps
Pouzauges
Maillezais
St-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie
Coëx
Les Essarts
Bazoges-en-Pareds
L'Aiguillon-sur-Vie
Chantonnay
Angers
Le château de Montreuil-Bellay
Nantes
Océan Atlantique
La Baule
Brem-sur-Mer
Les
La Roche-sur-Yon
La Châtaigneraie
Sainte-Hermine
Sainte-Pexine
Thiré
La Mothe-Achard
Vouvant
Mareuil-surMoutiersOlonne-sur-Mer
Lay-Dissais
Faymoreau
les-Mauxfaits
Sables-d'Olonne
Forêt de Mervent
Foussais-Payré
Château-d'Olonne
L'Hermenault
Le Champ-St-Père
Avrillé
Talmont-St-Hilaire
St-Cyr-en-Talmondais
Mervent
Pouillé
Le Bernard
Luçon
Jard-sur-Mer
Longeville-sur-Mer
Fontenay-le-Comte
Parc interrégional
St-Vincent-sur-Jard
du Marais poitevin
La Tranche-sur-Mer
Angles
Nieul-sur-l'Autise
St-Michel- ChailléLa Faute-sur-Mer
les-Marais
en-l'Herm
Maillezais
L'Aiguillon-sur-Mer
Brétignolles-sur-Mer
Nesmy
Troglodytes saumurois
Montsoreau
In charge of all the boats that pass
through lock number 6, Patrick Pilon
controls 200m3 of water with his crank
NATURE
27
Mayenne a lifestyle choice
Pascal lives out his childhood dream
Le Mans – Why bother rowing when you can hop
into a motorised boat, which is super easy to
control, and merrily travel down the river! In the
heart of Le Mans at the Arche de la Nature, you can
hire a boat from an hour to a half a day. The pier
can be found just behind the Maison de l’eau and
is easy to get to from the Tramway when you come
from the town centre.
www.portdumans.fr
“
The Lock-keeper : life on the water
The Sarthe has 16 locks between Le Mans and Sablé. We caught up with happy
tenant Patrick Pilon at lock number 6 in La Suze-sur-Sarthe.
liding silently ‘La Gélinotte’ nears
the Suze. On board the small
barge, a Belgian couple gesture to
Patrick Pilon, the lock-keeper. Pilon is already in full swing wearing his straw hat he
works the heavy crank allowing the water
to rise.
G
“I always have, and always
will, love my job.”
Patrick Pilon
Jumping from his boat to the bank, the Belgian holiday-maker leaves his wife in control
and comes to lend a hand turning the crank
with Patrick - four arms are better than two
– and a few more turns of the crank later,
the boat is through the lock. The skipper of
the boat and the lock-keeper exchange
pleasantries and they are back in action
again to release the water being held between the lock gates. “It takes about 10-20
minutes depending on which direction the
boat is coming from,” explains Patrick Pilon
who enjoys speaking about life on the
banks of the river. He has held the post for
18 years and describes it as his dream job.
“I love my job a little bit more every day.
Water is life for me. We meet people every
day from different nationalities.” The Belgian couple are back en route towards La
Suze. On this hot afternoon there are no
more boats in the distance and the lock-
keeper goes back to his peaceful gatehouse. Patrick trims back his perfumed
roses in his garden. Sprawled on the warm
steps, his dog Spice, goes back to his
siesta which was rudely interrupted by the
holiday-makers. Life flows by at the same
pace as the water, peacefully barely interrupted by the twittering of nearby birds.
Words Anne-Marie d’ARGENTRÉ - Photos Olivier BLIN
■ Kayaking on the Mayenne
From Laval to Château-Gontier, enjoy a 38 km water journey in a two-person kayak. Two
charming scheduled stop-overs: the Port-Rhingeard canal lock near the Notre-Dame-duPort du-Salut Abbey, and the Rongère canal lock in and old windmill.
From €174 per person. (min. 2 persons) • 3 days/2 nights • Includes:2 hotel nights in a double room, 2
breakfasts, 2 dinners (excluding beverages), 1 Nautiraid kayak and waterproof carry bags, safety jackets, insurance
for the day. Pickup at Château-Gontier or in Laval. Bus transportation from Château-Gontier or Laval is included.
Valid: from April to September 2012. Mayenne Tourism Office: 0 820 153 053
■ An eco-chic tour of the Sarthe valley
Treat yourself to a journey through time and stay in Asnières-sur-Vègre, the “most beautiful village in Maine”. Discover the local heritage: the church and a splendid ecological garden overlooking the medieval village. Dinner and overnight stay in a 15th Century stately mansion.
From €86 per person. (min. 2 persons) • 2 days/1 night • Includes: overnight guestroom accommodation including
breakfast, a candlelit dinner, and entrance to the mosaic garden. Valid: from April 27th to October 13th 2013 (arrivals
from Wednesday to Sunday.) Sarthe Regional Development: +33 (0)2 72 881 874
In Saint-Jean-sur-Mayenne, Pascal lives out his childhood dream and doesn’t let the river out of his sight.
River cruises – Be it the Mayenne, the Sarthe, the
s a child, Pascal Peltier fell in
love with the river. For the
past ten or so years he has
worked full-time as a lock-keeper in
Saint-Jean-en-Mayenne just North
of Laval. Between May and September he spends his time, “making
the area welcoming to the tourists
and visitors, walkers and cyclists so
that they make the most of their
time along the tow-paths.”
A
During the winter months, the 46 year-old maintains the towpaths
and the banks of the river – he’s
never far from the water. “I’m very
attached to the river because it
means so much to me. In spring,
summer and even on a beautiful autumnal day it attracts so many people and I’m able to meet them and
share my local knowledge of the
Mayenne region. Our department is
lucky enough to have a river that
travels from the North to the South
– that is very rare, and the Mayenne
is literally the back-bone of everything we do.” Back in the day you
could travel along the river between
Angers and Château-Gontier, but
the canalisation of the river over the
years has really improved the navigational opportunities. “Now there
are 37 locks between Mayenne and
Daon, and 8 between Laval and the
confluent of the Mayenne and the
Sarthe which makes up the Maine.
It’s always a great idea to stop at
the beautiful and always blooming
lock in Pendu, have a ‘crêpe’ stop
in Neuville or even have a meal at
the Benâtre restaurant.” The
Mayenne was the financial stronghold for the region for many years.
Now it is able to have a second
wind thanks to the river and towpath tourism. “I couldn’t even hazard a guess at how many people
pass along this route on foot, bike
or boat – but it is a huge number”
concludes Pascal Peltier.
Erdre or the canal between Nantes and Brest, in
less than an hour you can be fully briefed on how
to control the vessel and be on board and skippering a boat for between 2 and 12 people. You don’t
need a licence and it’s a great idea for a day, weekend or a few days away. You can moor up outside
a restaurant or when a village or town takes your
fancy and discover a new part of this beautiful region.
www.nautisme.enpaysdelaloire.com
Photo Jean Dominique Billaud / Nautilus
CYCLING
29
eXCURSIONS
Discovering the
region by
bike
Discover the Loire Valley by bike thanks to 800 km of
safe cycle paths from Nevers to the estuary of the Atlantic Ocean. The full network runs between the Atlantic
to the Black sea (3,800km). ‘La Loire a vélo’ helps you
to explore other routes on two wheels that branch off
the main European route. It’s a sort of T junction between the Velodyssey, some 1,200km that covers Brittany in the direction of Spain along the Atlantic coast,
and the Eurovélo which travels to Eastern Europe.
It also links to the canal between Nantes and Brest. You
might prefer to go towards the Vendée and its 1,000km
of cycle paths or, better still, to the Mayenne where you
can cycle along the riverbanks for over 100km from the
North to the South. In the Pays de la Loire the cycle
paths often run parallel to the water.
Liaison axe
Paris Mt-St-Michel
Loire à Vélo, 800 kilomètres
d’itinéraires balisés
2
ÉCHOS
Direction Laval
Le Mans
Liaison
Manche Loire
n
Lio
Le
EV3 Eurovéloroute
er s
ng
d'A
La Loire a Velo’ itinerary
Another Eurovelo route
Eurovelo route
son
nche Océan
Castle or Monument
Park and Gardens
Vineyard
Cathedral
or religious building
La
re
Va
e
nn
Regional Nature Park
Airport
TGV train station (high speed)
Train station easily
accessible by bike
from the itinerary
Area named ‘Val de Loire’
and a UNESCO world
heritage site
Liaison
La Rochelle
s
ble
Sa ne
s
Le lon
d'O
The Pays de la Loire region
Loire by bike
Loire by bike a royal aﬀair
■ A biking adventure from Sau-
‘La Loire à Vélo’ is the western branch of a European cycle network that travels
from the Atlantic coast to Hungary and will soon go all the way to the Black Sea.
stablished almost 10 years ago, its
journey begins in La Guerche-surl’aubois not far from Nevers in the
Nièvre before launching itself towards the
Atlantic coastline in Saint-Brevin-les-Pins.
Over 800km of cycle paths meander
around the two regions of Centre, the Pays
de la Loirte and six departments. The network traverses the Val de Loire, a
UNESCO world heritage site, and guides
the bicycle lover between Tours and Angers through the vineyards of Chinon and
Saumur. Castles, chateau ruins, vineyards
and wineries, rivers, and the ocean – there
really is something for all ages and all abilities.
E
In just a decade, ‘La Loire à Vélo’ has also
written itself into the history books. In
2011, ‘La Loire à Vélo’ network counted
790,000 tourists on its cycle paths
(279,300 in Pays de la Loire alone). Of
those, 64% were French locals having a
welcome break from the hustle and bustle
of their everyday lives, but 36% were global
visitors to the tourist hotspot.
According to a study in 2011, “the direct
impact of a cyclist in terms of kilometres
travelled on the ‘La Loire à Vélo’ route accounts for €15.8million, which is the equivalent of €19,750 per kilometre.” 96% of
the expenditure comes from tourists as opposed to local excursionists.
‘La Loire à Vélo’ is just a small portion of
the Eurovelo 6 route and those who end
up in Nevers could well be tempted to
carry on their route to the East via Bourgogne, Franche-Comté and the Alsace be-
mur to Saint-Brevin-les-Pins
Cycle through the charming Loire Valley
on the La Loire à Vélo bike trails, from
Saumur to Saint-Brevin. The Loire region's landscapes, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the Atlantic beaches are
the perfect backdrop for an unforgettable
adventure.
fore embarking on even more well-known
riverside routes along the Rhine and the
Danube. Austria, Slovakia, Hungary, Croatia, Serbia, Bulgaria and Romania are all
just a bike ride away.
From €825 per person. (min. 2 persons) • 7 days/6
nights (5 days on the road) • Includes: accommodation (double room) – 2 nights in a two-star hotel and
4 nights in a three-star hotel, 3 dinner meals (excluding
beverages), 6 continental breakfasts, 1 travel folder, rental bikes for 5 days, baggage transport from hotel to
hotel.
Valid: March to October 2013. Rando Vélo office:
+33 (0)2 54 78 62 52
Eurovelo 6 will link up a 3,800km-long
cycle network from the Atlantic Ocean to
the Black Sea.
www.cycling-loire.com
Photo Joël Damase
Words Cédric SOULIÉ - Photo Antonio BOZZARDI
Even more of the Loire can be discovered on two wheels. 800km of cycle routes are available for those
keen cyclists who dream of getting much closer to the nature and architecture that the region has to offer
33
CYCLING
The alpes mancelles : answer to the Alps
The Alpes Mancelles offer ideal terrain for mountain bike raids
With its eight circuits, the Domaine du Gaseau is
the place to be for the young mountain bikers of
the cycling club Saint-Léonard-des-Bois. Amateurs from all over France come to try out the
courses.
From the North to the South, along the atlantic coastline, the Velodysee will help you discover the
charm of towns such as Nantes, La Rochelle, Rochefort, Royan, Bayonne and as far as Biarritz.
la Vélodyssée - photo Joel Damase
Enpaysdelaloire.com’s selection
The Velodyssey
■ The heart of the Sarthe forest
Take a breath of fresh air at Sillé-le-Guillaume!
Experience this escapade at the heart of a
3,400 hectare national park forest. Your schedule includes: 2 nights in a fully-appointed trailer, 1 mountain bike adventure (1 day), 1 dinner
in a gourmet restaurant.
free-wheeling along the Atlantic
‘The Velodyssey’ represents the French section of
Eurovelo 1 which travels across Portugal, Spain, France,
Great Britain & Ireland and Norway.
ince June 2012 you can cycle from
Brittany to Holland, Roscoff to Hendaye; A total of over 1,200km of
cycle paths -more than anywhere else in
France. The route traverses 10 departments in France and skims along the Atlantic coast. In Pays de la Loire, the route
travels from the North to the South along
the canal between Nantes and Brest. Crossing through Nantes it rejoins the estuary of
the ‘Loire à Vélo’ network. From Saint-Brevin it runs through Pornic and the Cote de
Jade before arriving on the Vendee coast.
S
Experience all aspects of wildlife
The majority of the cycle network in the
Vendee region is along the coastline, on
pathways reserved for pedestrians and
bikes. Some of the routes roll along on to
the beaches giving you the chance to experience all aspects of Vendee wildlife,
marshes, forests, sand dunes, rocky coasts
and the more touristic beach resorts. With
it’s long white sandy beaches, pine forests
and rolling fields the coastline pathways are
perfect for family outings by bike or on foot.
Cyclotourists can take their time to stop off
in the ocean ports like Saint-Gilles-Croixde-Vie, and be tempted by the beach resorts like Les Sables d’Olonne, the start
town of the Vendee Globe. Ile d’Yeu, the
pearl of the Atlantic ocean can’t be overlooked, nor can L’Ile de Noirmoutier which can
be reached via the spectacular ‘passage du
Gois’. The southern part of the Vendee
coast boasts some of the most beautiful
lighting effects for photography and artists
to take. There are lots of picnic spots along
the route to take advantage of that well-earned break.
■ Cycle
from the Loire Valley
to the Ocean
Start pedalling in Saint-Brevin and choose
from the marine or inland options, and
discover a fragile environment. After dusk,
relax your muscles and recover from the
day's efforts in the hotel spa.
From €74 per person. (min. 2 persons) • 2
days/1 night • Includes: 1 three-star hotel night
in a double room overlooking the pine woods,
breakfast buffet, bike rentals for 1 day including
equipment (helmet, antitheft device), “La Vélodyssée” et “La Loire à Vélo” Itinerary cards and access
to the spa. Valid: until the end of 2013.
Loire-Atlantique Tourism: 0810 044 001
www.lavelodyssee.com
The Alpes Mancelles might not rival the peaks of the
French Alps but the views, like this one above StLéonard-des-Bois, are certainly just as stunning
hat goes up must come
down, and these trails
really do go up! “When
you’re on a mountain bike it’s easy
to see why they have named the
area the ‘Alpes Mancelles’,” proclaims Jean-Michel Launay, president of the Sarthe Gasseau
Mountain Bike Club in Saint-Léonard-des-Bois. Its highest peak is
416 metres altitude, which obviously
is no contest to the steep alpine
descents but the terrain is very similar to that of the mountains. With
some sharp hills and steep valleys to
descend, amateur mountain bikers
can get some great climbing in – a
rarity in Pays de la Loire.
W
From the top of the hill above SaintLéonard-des-Bois the panoramic
view is breathtaking. In the distance
la Vélodyssée - photo Joel Damase
you can see the tree-clad cliffs blending in with the farmers’ fields and
the flatter grassy areas where campers are pitching tents. By stark
contrast, the Sarthe glistens down in
the valley, reflecting all of the wonderful scenery on its cool waters.
From €94 per person. (min. 2 persons) • 3 days/2
nights • Includes: trailer rental at a camp site for 2 nights,
1 mountain bike rental per person (1 day), 1 dinner in a
gourmet restaurant (excluding beverages). Valid: from 29
March to 4 July, 30 August to 19 September and 23 September to 27 October 2013.
Sarthe Regional Development: +33 (0)2 72 881 874.
As a local, world champion Laurence Leboucher learnt his trade on
these routes. For those slightly less
accomplished, there are some softer
rolling hills that join Saint-Céneri-le
Gerei and Fresnay-sur-Sarthe.
Be it a family outing or just for a solo
ride, as a mountain biker you are
spoilt for choice. Route number 8 is
a must if you have a whole day, as it
takes in the full 116km of Alpes
Mancelles trails.
www.tourisme-en-sarthe.com
Words Anne-Marie d’ARGENTRÉ - Ph Olivier BLIN
Photo Pixland
CYCLING
35
Vendée
1,000km
by bike
Since last year, the Vendée is the leading department with the largest
amount of cycling routes in
France. More than 1,000
km from the marshes to
the coastline through the
pastures and woods…
The Mayenne offers 100km of towpaths to
cycle along
Discover the Mayenne
along the towpath
Y
ou’re never alone for long along the
Mayenne. From the North to the
South, over 100km of towpaths can
be found along the riverbanks – perfect for
a Sunday afternoon stroll.
In peak season, summer and winter, this
becomes a meeting point, a place to explore and somewhere you can get lost in
your thoughts. No matter which side of
the river you pick, you will be sure to find
joggers, walkers, cyclists and mountain bikers all enjoying the surroundings in harmony. “Everyone has their own pace,”
explains Laurent Garnier, mountain biker
and President of Team VTT Louverné, a
small village on the outskirts of Laval. “It’s
absolutely unheard of that someone gets
in your way, even at the weekend when the
routes are jam-packed.” According to
Laurent and his sidekick, Michel Leveille,
who together he travelled around France
on their mountain bikes, “the Mayenne
towpath is one of the most beautiful greenbelt areas in France. As a tourist it’s definitely the best way to explore and really get
into the heart of the department of
Mayenne.” Michèle (aged 75) and Colette
(aged 64) would tend to agree, as without
this famous towpath linking up otherwise
undiscoverable parts of the countryside,
these two would never have met. “I live in
Changé, a small village near Laval, and Co-
lette lives in Saint-Jean sur Mayenne
slightly to the North. Once or twice we
would bump into each other, then it became a regular occurrence, and now we
meet up and go for a walk together every
day.” Often walking 6-12km, these two
energetic ladies have been able to savour
the beautiful landscape over many years.
“For those that want to get to know the
towpath and its history in more detail, there
are lots of educational signs up along the
route, pointing out elements of the environment, local heritage sites, flora and fauna.”
Everyone is careful about where they put
their feet; there are many endangered species and plants along the route including
yellow irises, ash and alder trees, tree
frogs, grass snakes and toads. “No matter
what the season we’ll always find something to see. Castle ruins, a footpath you
haven’t seen before, classic 18th Century
buildings and, thankfully, a few cafes to
have a spot of lunch in or just to rehydrate
on the way. The towpath is a fantastic way
to get about but it can also lead you to explore an otherwise unknown area en route
through the forests surrounding the river.
Each trip along the Mayenne brings a new
discovery.”
■
Cycle down the towpaths
Of Mayenne
From the ideally located hotel (park, spa,
hammam, fitness centre and outdoor
pool) along the Mayenne River, discover
a fantastic biking itinerary that will lead
you to the city of Mayenne before continuing onwards to Montgiroux.
auvaget in Pissotte can be found in
the South of the Vendée. The river
runs through the valley but the rest
of the area is very hilly – perfect conditions
for any serious or amateur cyclist.
S
From €74 per person. (min. 2 adults) • 2 days/1
night • Includes: 1 three-star hotel night in a double room, classic in-room breakfast, 1 mixed-trail
mountain bike, tickets to the Mayenne Castle Museum, a map of the Mayenne River. Valid: from
March to November 2013.
Mayenne Tourism Office: +33 (0) 820 153 053
The efforts of the Regional office of the
Vendée are all very biased towards cycling.
In 2012 the department celebrated the
opening of it’s 1,000 kilometre on their
cycle network between Châteauneuf and
Bois-de-Cené in the Breton-vendéen
marshes. Another 1,350km are planned in
the near future.
www.mayenne-tourisme.com
Words Cédric SOULIÉ - Photos Antonio BOZZARDI
© ADT 53 /J.C Druais
It is a record for France and when you add
the thousands of other kilometres throughout the villages it becomes the leading
department for cycling. Over 230,000
inhabitants of the Vendée cycle regularly.
The cycling clubs have almost 5,000 registered members. Even the tourists have got
involved. The Charente-Maritime and the
Vendée count for almost 1 million cycling
holidays every year, almost 20% of those
on the atlantic coast.
The Vendée boasts 1,000km of cycle paths; a network of
routes that allows you to discover the department whilst pedalling along.
Another side of the Vendée
In this new additional network you can navigate around the department just by pedaling. Sauvaget is just one of the
‘etapes’. Number 28 on the itinerary,
110km from the ‘Marais Poitevin’ to the
Bocage’.
Far from the 220km of cyclepaths that
overhang the coastline, this stage of the
route takes you on a journey of discovery
through the Mervent forest, the MerventLake, traverses the famous Deluge bridge
and takes cyclists to the beautiful PierreBrune theme park and then on towards
Vouvant a charming city of character. Like
the other pathways available to explorers,
the Vendée can add this to their repertoire.
Another which is only accessible by bike
and you can’t get to by car.
■ A family biking adventure
In Noirmoutier
Are you longing for a weekend getaway
with in a spectacular setting? Welcome to
Noirmoutier, tucked away in the pinewoods that directly give way to the beach.
Spin around the cycling trails to discover
the island's secrets.
From €158 per tent (2 adults + 2 children). • 3
days/2 nights • Includes: 2 nights in a classic
cloth-and-wood tent (1 to 4 persons) at Noirmoutier-en-l'Île’s campsite, bike rentals for 1 day. Valid:
April 11th to October 6th 2013 (minimum 3-night
stays between July 13th and August 27th). Vendée Tourism Reservations: +33 (0)2 51 62 76 82
http://vendeevelo.vendee.fr
Photo R. etienne
The city’s beauty revealed by night
Laval
Tourism in Pays de la Loire is also an urban affair. Some of the city’s architectural
treasures are best revealed long after sunset. See for yourself!
Nantes
Angers
Le Mans
Saumur
Photos Jean-Dominique Billaud, Antonio
Bozzardi, Michel Plassart, Olivier Blin
38
ABOUT TOWN
URBAN SPACES
39
The lights of Angers
La Maison d’Adam (Adam’s House). This old merchant’s house is an excellent example of the halftimbered houses which were built during the Middle
Ages. A large silhouette reveals a fascinating sculpted decor, right out of the 15th Century. The halfangel, half-demon statuettes are watching you…
Nantes is the 2013 European Green Capital, after Vitoria (Spain) and ahead of Copenhagen in 2014.
With over 1,050 hectares of green spaces, the city certainly deserves the prestigious award.
© Photo Voyage à Nantes
Nantes, european green capital
Every 500 metres, the city of the Dukes of Brittany reveals a park, a square or a garden.
nd they keep adding more! Architect
Marcel Smets is in charge of redesigning the island of Nantes. He made a
promise: by 2020, a new 1 hectare park will
be created behind the Hangar à bananes, an
old banana warehouse turned into a highend shopping centre, and the future University Hospital. With over 1,050 hectares of
green spaces, the city is literally trying to
outdo itself! On average, Nantes already
boasts 37 square metres of greenery per
inhabitant, twice as much as French cities
Lyon and Bordeaux, four times more than
Lille and… ten times more than Paris! “This
is the outcome of several centuries of work,”
explains Director of Environmental & Green
Spaces, Jacques Soignon, who has been
working with City Hall for the past ten years.
It started at the time of Louis XIV of France in
1689, with the Jardin des Apothicaires, that
later became the Jardin des plantes (Botanic
Garden) during the 19th Century. The city
never stopped acquiring new green spaces
over the decades. The latest acquisition is
the Oblates Park (3 hectares), located on the
Sainte-Anne hill, purchased last year. The
inauguration of the hundredth park, garden
or square of Nantes is scheduled for next
spring. A rare accomplishment in France!
A
Nantes, a green city? There isn’t a tree in
sight in Place Royale or in Place Graslin.
Head towards the Parc de Procé, on the
west side of the city, to catch the green
theme. Acquired by mayor Paul Bellamy
exactly a century ago, this park is the city’s
green jewel. Its romantic English gardens are
a weekend favourite among the families of
Nantes, not unlike Hyde Park in London, but
on a smaller scale. Each of Nantes’ parks has
a special and unique characteristic. The largest is Grand-Blottereau, to the west of the
city, with its French gardens, Mediterranean
stones and banana groves. The most exotic
is Île de Versailles, with its massive bamboo
trees and Japanese azalea gardens.
The 2013 European Green Capital
The richest park, the Jardin des plantes, can
be found near the train station. Indeed, this
beautiful garden is one of the four greatest
botanical areas in the country. Nantes is
often considered a reference in the world of
botany, probably because it does not skimp
on resources: almost 450 gardeners grow a
million plants per year in the park. A strong
network of associations also organises many
events each year, such as Folie des plantes,
the largest plant market in the West,
Troc’plantes and ‘Les Floralies’. The next edition is scheduled for 2014.
Last but not least, Nantes is the 2013 European Green Capital, a title awarded by the
European Commission, after Vitoria-Gasteiz
(Spain) in 2012 and ahead of Copenhagen
(Denmark) in 2014. The city plans to celebrate this prestigious distinction with a series
of events throughout 2013. For more information, visit :
www.nantesgreencapital.fr
www.levoyageanantes.fr
Words Antoine GAZEAU - Photo Voyage à Nantes
■ Travel to Nantes
From June 28th to September 1st, enjoy many temporary exhibitions, the Carrousel des
Mondes Marins, and the Estuaire Nantes<>Saint-Nazaire cruise: feel the effervescence and
passion for art of the 2013 European Green Capital.
From €42.50 per person. (min. 2 persons) • 2 days/1 night • Includes: 1 night in a double room, breakfast,
Pass Nantes 24H tickets. May not be combined with other offers. Valid: from June 28th to September 1st
2013. Offer is also valid outside of those dates on Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights only, and weekdays
during school breaks and public holidays. Le Voyage à Nantes: 0 892 464 044 (0.34 €/mn).
Photos Antonio Bozzardi
The currents
of the river Maine
T
he
Pont
Confluences
(Confluences
Bridge)
stretches over the river Maine
as if it were magically suspended in
the air. The link between two neighbourhoods of the city of Angers can
be crossed on foot or by bike, and
serves as an aerial passageway for
the tramway. Public transit at its
best, passengers can admire the
soft city skyline and catch a glimpse
of the castle, gaze into the river and
overlook the shores. At night, the
warm colours of the bridge’s lights
glimmer on the water, and the graceful concrete and metallic lines
create dancing double reflections
on the surface. The bridge belongs
to the people and the people gave
it its name in 2009: ‘confluences’
means a link between the two riverbanks. The name also recalls the
origins of the city of Angers: an intersection between three rivers: the
Mayenne, the Sarthe and the Loir.
The Grand Theatre.The theatre proudly sits on the
Place du Ralliement. A cultural and entertainment
landmark, this majestic Haussmann-style monument was inaugurated in 1871. The theatre is located in the city centre and still hosts plays, recitals
and operas, like in the old days.
www.angersloiretourisme.com
Unique holidays with
Enpaysdelaloire.com
■ A nature-based adventure in Terra Botanica
Welcome to Terra Botanica, the first theme park dedicated exclusively to
Nature! Biodiversity, awareness, artistic creation and originality meet here.
Located in Angers, this theme park will delight visitors of all ages.
From €54 per person. (min. 2 adults) • 2 days/1 night • Includes: 1 night in a double
room, breakfast, tickets to Terra Botanica, tourism tax, Angers Loire Valley tourism guide and
a traveller's notebook. Valid: April 13th to November 3rd 2013. Angers Loire Tourism: +33
(0)2 41 23 50 00
Saint-Maurice. The gothic cathedral of Saint-Maurice has been the official seat of the Bishop of Angers since the 9th Century. This key monument
presents a narrow façade that overlooks the river
Maine.
40
ABOUT TOWN
ABOUT TOWN
Le Mans, an unusual journey
The Cité Plantagenêt (or ‘the Old Mans’) vineyard.
Where urban vines grow, a downtown vineyard! Located on the city’s sun-drenched hillsides, below
Rue Saint-Flaceau, Le Mans’ pocket-sized vineyard
is not to be missed.
Tessé’s hourglass: a timeless monument. This monumental hourglass sits imposingly at the centre of the
the Parc de Tessé. It was created by artist JeanBernard Métais, and invites the admirer to take the
time to watch the passing… of time.
Laval, Saumur, Cholet… discover
the unexpected !
Musical angels and heavenly concerts. A celestial
concert of 47 musician angels adorn the cathedral
vault. From a pictorial standpoint, this 19th Century
fresco is simply fascinating.
Enter the world of the pharaohs through these Egyptian
tombs. Egypt, as if you were there. Tessé’s museum
features a stunning reconstruction of two tombs:
Sennefer, Mayor of Thèbes, and Ramsès II’s wife
Nofretari.
41
Laval : retrace the steps of French painter Henri Rousseau. The Museum of Naïve Art, located in the Castle
of the Lords of Laval, features paintings by renowned artists from around the world: Henri Rousseau,
André Bauchant, Camille Bombois… visit Laval native Henri Rousseau’s recreated workshop and see
for yourself! www.laval-tourisme.com
Saumur and it’s château. The Château of Saumur is the heart of tourism in
the area. It is the last example of a princely palace from the Valois dynasty.
The site successively became a residence for the town governors, a prison
and a munitions depot. Since 1912 the monument houses the local museum. Throughout the summer months, the Chateau is transformed into a
spectacle of light and takes it's visitors on a journey through history.
www.ot-saumur.fr
Textile Museum in Cholet. Located in the former
wash-house of Rivière Sauvageau that dates back
to 1881, the Textile Museum features an overview
of the textile industry’s history and techniques: from
fibre to thread, and from thread to textile. Don’t
miss the weaving demonstrations using authentic
weaving looms. www.museedutextile.com
Unique holidays with
Enpaysdelaloire.com
■ We Love LA* *Laval Agglomération (French for Laval Urban Area)
Spend the night in a hut, hidden away in the Echologia ecotourism site. Discover the Lactopôle museum, a true cheese lover’s paradise, and explore
Laval's historic city centre with a scavenger hunt.
From €84 per person. (min. 2 persons) • 2 days/1 night • Includes: 1 overnight stay in
a hut, breakfast and tickets to Lactopôle. Valid: from Easter to All-Saints day 2013. Laval
Tourism Office: +33 (0)2 43 49 46 11
The enigmatic cathedral menhir. This astonishing
menhir (monolith) and its intricate fossil lines sits at
the foot of the cathedral. Why or how it got here,
nobody knows; the mystery of its existence remains. According to local legend, it pays homage
to fertility.
www.lemanstourisme.com
Tour du Vivier: a massive undertaking. This Roman
high wall features alternate brick, brownish red
sandstone and limestone geometric shapes. The
tallest high wall in Europe reaches up to 1,300 metres high, and has been admirably preserved over
time.
■ A stop-over in Le Mans on a “Night of Fantasy”
Uncover the power of your imagination and discover the mystery of the city's
heritage on stage. The historic heart of Le Mans aspires to become a
UNESCO World Heritage Site. Use your Cité Pass and enjoy many discounts with our partner organisations, discover the museums, sites, activities, restaurants and shops of the Plantagenêt City.
From €42 per person. (based on a double room.) • 2 days/1 night • Includes: 1 night
in a one-star hotel, breakfast, the Cité Pass and tourism tax. Valid: excludes race dates and
special events, from July 2nd to August 31st 2013. Also valid from September to June. Le
Mans Tourism Office: +33 (0)2 43 28 17 22
La Roche-sur-Yon. As usual, in 2013, the Association Patrimoine yonnais (Heritage Association of Yon) offers an
original and unexpected journey back in time through
the history of the city that Napoléon created. During the
summertime, one of the Compagnie théâtrale GrizzliPhilibert-Tambour’s guides will show you some of the
city’s secrets… on a horse-drawn carriage or with a tapdance! For more information: +33 (0)2 51 46 14 47.
www.ot-roche-sur-yon.fr
42
VILLAGES
VILLAGES
▲
Discover
the character of
smallest
villages
▲
Faymoreau. A mining village, in the
south: from 1827 to 1958, this small
Vendée community lived to the
sounds of picks and coal extractions.
A strong and visible heritage tells its
story.
Sainte-Suzanne. Sainte-Suzanne is a
beautiful medieval city, built in a triangle
shape on a rocky overhang, 70 metres
above the river Erve. Nature enthusiasts will fall in love with Sainte-Suzanne’s 100 kilometres of nature trails.
Trekking, horseback riding or cycling
are the activities of choice.
With over a thousand kilometres of underground galleries, Saumur
has the largest concentration of troglodyte houses in France. Some
of the dwellings, like this house in Turquant, feature particular
charm and character.
▲
Tiny, yet full of charm, spread
throughout Pays de la Loire,
these small character-filled villages carry the prestigious
label “Petites Cités de caractère” (small towns of character) and invite you to discover
the gentle lifestyle that symbolises the Loire valley…
maybe they are the reason
behind it?
Le Grand-Lucé. Promoted to the status of
a Barony by François I, the village of Le
Grand-Lucé spreads out around the castle. The castle park and its magnificent
French gardens are open to visitors from
April to October.
▲
the
Vouvant. When the British flocked to
Vouvant, they did not choose randomly. Behind medieval walls, the
city’s legends and artists live on, in
the true spirit of old world France.
▲
Vivoin. Located on the pilgrimage
trail that leads to Mont-Saint-Michel,
the small town of Vivoin owes its reputation to the Priory that was built
there in 1239. The Priory now shows
a number of exhibits.
Montreuil-Bellay. Montreuil-Bellay is
situated on the banks of the Thouet,
at the intersection of Anjou, Touraine
and Poitou. The city is spread out
around its castle, which dates back
to 1025.
▲
▲
Saint-Florent-le-Vieil. It’s one of the
vantage points from the wars de
Vendée. The village hosts a festival of
oriental music every year. It was also
the hometown of the writer Julien
Gracq who lived here his whole life.
▲
Nieul-sur-l’Autize. Aliénor d’Aquitaine’s birthplace attracts 40,000 visitors per year. The queen was born
in 1122 in the royal abbey, Saint-Vincent-de-Paul, at the gates of the Marais poitevin lands.
Lassay-les-Châteaux. The city of Lassay features three castles: Lassay,
Bois Thibault and Bois Frou. Admire
the rich architectural details of the old
city centre: lintel sculptures, turrets
and more.
Parcé-sur-Sarthe. The village of Parcé-surSarthe is hidden away in a large bend in
the Sarthe River. It was destroyed by British troops at the end of the Hundred
Years War. The community was then rebuilt with the old stones and fortifications
that could be retrieved from the castle.
▲
Piriac-sur-Mer. Zola, Flaubert and
Daudet were captivated by this small
port near Guérande. Granite houses,
hydrangeas, pontoons, coastal trails:
Piriac’s charms are timeless.
▲
Saulges. In this beautiful village the Rochefort and Margot grottos open their
doors and let you into their ancient secrets. You can go on a walk around the
village from the grottos all the way to
the Thevalles mill.
▲
▲
www.pcc-paysdelaloire.fr
43
Val de Loire : 5 vineyards to discover
Issued by the Ministries of Tourism and Agriculture, the Vineyards & Discoveries certificate promotes vineyard and vine-growing tourism and
activities. The label is granted for three years to travel destinations that focus on a touristic approach to wine-making, and feature a wide range
of complementary products and tourism offerings. Tourists enjoy two advantages: the label smooths the organisation process and ensures
high-quality services. About a third of the 24 certified destinations in France are located in the Val de Loire. The region itself comprises five.
Angers Loire Valley
Muscadet Loire Océan
This destination comprises 68 cities and towns, surrounding Angers and Brissac.
It has been certified since the beginning of 2012.
• Vineyard: three AOC labels: Coteaux de l’Aubance, Anjou-Villages Brissac, Savennières
• Partners: 14 cellars, 20 accommodations, 9 restaurants.
• Characteristic tourism sites: Château de Brissac, Terra Botanica, a nature park: www.terrabotanica.fr.
• Contact and information: Tourism office in Brissac-Loire-Aubance: www.ot-brissac-loire-aubance.fr - +33 (0)2 41 91 21 50
This destination has been certified since 2011 and includes 70 cities and towns.
For more informations :
www.vinsdeloire.fr
• Vineyard: The largest single-variety white wine AOC vineyard in the world produces 4 labels:
Muscadet, Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine, Muscadet Coteaux de la Loire, Muscadet
Côtes de Grand Lieu.
• Partners: 31 touristic cellars, 28 accommodations, 8 restaurants.
• Characteristic tourism sites: The Nantes vineyard museum, in Pallet:
www.vignoble-nantais.eu, Château de Clisson, Château dʼOudon.
• Contact and information: The Loire-Atlantique Tourism Development Agency:
www.ohlaloireatlantique.com - +33 (0)2 51 72 95 40
Mayenne
Sarthe
Jasnières
This destination comprises 92 cities and towns,
located in the Sarthe, Indre-et-Loire and Maineet-Loire departments. It has been certified since
2010.
• Vineyard: AOC Jasnières, AOC Coteaux du
Loir, Coteaux du Vendômois (Loir-et-Cher, associate vineyard)
• Partners: 10 tourist cellars, 18 accommodations, 14 restaurants.
• Characteristic tourism sites: Carnuta, la
Maison de l’Homme et de la Forêt, in Jupilles
(Sarthe). www.carnuta.fr
• Contact and information: www.vallee-duloir.com - +33 (0)2 42 38 16 66
Le Loir
ANGERS
Anjou-Villages
L’Erdre
NANTES
Le Layon
Coteaux
du Layon
Loir Valley
SAUMUR
SaumurChampigny
Muscadet
Sèvre-et-Maine
La Vienne
CHOLET
Le Thouet
La Sèvre Nantaise
Vallée du Layon
Saumur Val de Loire
This destination has been certified since 2010 and includes 44 cities and towns, located along a single main channel: the Layon river.
• Vineyard: Featuring the AOC certificate of Coteaux du Layon, this destination proudly boasts 16
different appellations: Anjou Blanc, Savennières, Coteaux de la Loire (dry whites); Coteaux du
Layon, Coteaux du Layon Villages, Bonnezeaux, Quarts de Chaume, Chaume (sweet whites); Rosé
dʼAnjou, Cabernet dʼAnjou, Rosé de Loire (rosés); Anjou Rouge, Anjou Gamay, Anjou Villages (reds);
Crémant de Loire, Anjou Fines Bulles, Saumur Brut (sparkling).
• Partners: 36 touristic cellars, 36 accommodations, 12 restaurants.
• Characteristic tourism sites: Château de Serrant, at Saint-Georges sur-Loire: the Wine and Vineyards Museum of Anjou, in Saint-Lambert-du-Lattay: www.mvvanjou.com.
• Contact and information: Loire en Layon: www.layon.org – +33 (0)2 41 54 59 22
Fiefs Vendéens
LES SABLES-D'OLONNE
This destination has been certified since 2011 and includes 80 cities and towns in the
Maine-et-Loire department and around Saumur, including Beaufort-en-Vallée, Gennes
and Doué-la-Fontaine.
• Vineyard: the destination proudly holds 12 AOC labels: Cabernet d’Anjou, Cabernet
de Saumur, Coteaux de Saumur, Coteaux du Layon, Crémant de Loire, Rosé d’Anjou,
Saumur rouge, Saumur-champigny, Saumur-Puy-Notre-Dame, Saumur brut, Saumur
blanc.
• Partners: 23 tourist cellars, 23 accommodations, 8 restaurants.
• Characteristic tourism sites: The royal abbey of Fontevraud: www.abbayedefontevraud.com, Château de Saumur, Château de Brézé.
• Contact and information: Tourism office in Saumur-Val de Loire : www.ot-saumur.fr
- +33 (0)2 41 40 20 60
POITIERS
■ Nantes vineyards, for the love of good food and nature
A local wine-grower, as well as some of the region’s restaurants, have prepared an exceptional sampling session of local products for the
food enthusiast within.
Your schedule includes: A nature trail walk in the spectacular scenery of the Nantes Vineyard.
From €143 per person. (min. 2 persons) • 3 days/2 nights • Includes: 2 nights in a guestroom, The Chef’s Market dinner for 2, 1 cellar tea time snack, 1 artisanal
brewery tour with sampling session or 1 canoe tour, 1 gift basket for 2, 5 hiking itineraries and 5 biking itineraries. Valid: until the end of 2013. Nantes Vineyard Tourism
Office: +33 (0)2 40 54 24 22
■ For the perfect weekend getaway, discover the food and wine of Anjou
A unique oenological experience awaits in the Saumur vineyards of the Val de Loire with local wine expert. Learn to pair the perfect wine
with your meal during an exceptional gourmet dinner and spend the night in a charming private mansion on the banks of the Loire River.
From €157 per person. (min. 2 persons) • 2 days/1 night • Includes: 1 night in a charming hotel in the Saumur region, breakfast and wine-pairing dinner, 1 guided oenological morning spent in the vineyards and visiting the cellar of the Brézé castle, 1 free recipe booklet and map of the vineyards. Valid: Feb. 1st to Dec 30th 2013. For
reservations in Anjou: +33 (0)2 41 23 51 23
46
FAMILY TIME
FAMILY TIME
47
Tours for children
1
Planète sauvage, à Port-Saint-Père
Spend an unforgettable day in this wildlife park,
which recently celebrated its 20th anniversary. All
five continents feature in Planète Sauvage’s 80
hectares of land which 1,000 animals and 150 different species call their home. Meet the dolphins
of marine city, explore the outback village by safari to discover crocodiles, elephants and bears.
visit www.planetesauvage.com.
1
2 Splash around at Papéa, in Yvré-l’Évêque
Papéa Park offers the aquatic attractions that
kids absolutely love. Come and ride the flume
down the waterfall and into the pool. A perfect
outing for a hot Summer’s day. www.paeaparc.fr
3 Escal’Atlantic, Saint-Nazaire
2
Back to the future… or to the dawn of the last
century! The France and Normandie liners were
built right here, by the Compagnie générale transatlantique, and their story lives on in this ecofriendly museum, tucked away in a small corner
of the famous underwater Saint-Nazaire base. 69 year olds can explore a trail of clues and fill out
their journey log, while 10-12 year olds work on
their investigation Jjurnal. Escal’Atlantic was closed for renovations last winter and will reopen
this summer ! For more information,
visit www.saint-nazairetourisme.com.
4
3
4
The adventurers’ castle in Avrillé
The Guignardière castle has been a family favourite for over ten years. It features numerous games
and discovery courses geared towards children of
all ages. Go back in time and solve the mysteries
of history, with Le Trésor des Explorateurs (The
Explorer’s Treasure Hunt) that takes participants
through the lives of Christopher Columbus, the Vikings and Marco Polo. Discover the menhir ecocourse and learn about their alignments as well as
the basics of eco-citizenship. Explore Oh! Tour du
Monde (Oh! Around the World) for 3- 7 year olds,
the Pirates course or wander off into a dinosaur
and prehistoric adventure. Don’t miss out on the
special events: Jurassic Easter (March 31 and
April 1), Jack Sparrow Mondays (every Monday,
from July 8 to August 26) and the Pirates Party
(July 21 and 22, August 11 and 12). For more information: www.chateau-aventuriers.com.
5 Rock Ici Mômes festival, in Sablé
You won’t want to miss this festival if you are age
3 to 12! Rock Ici Mômes is dedicated to kids and
attracts over 10,000 fans per year in the Sablésur-Sarthe castle park. It features singers, musicians, clowns and special shows for the little
ones. www.sablesursarthe.fr
5
Entrez dans la cour des grands
How else can you visit castles, museums and
troglodyte grottos all in one place? The ‘Cour
des Grands’ has been created to teach the
younger generation about heritage, nature
and the crafts of the Loire Valley. Each itinerary around the Anjou and Tourraine departments has been made for explorers aged 7
and over and their parents to discover, learn,
and have fun with their parents and friends.
Work out your trip by visiting the website and
looking at the interactive map.
www.entrezdanslacourdesgrands.com
The Carousel and the elephant in Nantes
Just opposite Jules Verne Museum, the Marine Worlds Carousel, a giant of nearly 25 m
high and 22m wide, is established on the Loire
bank. A true 3600 theatre welcomes the audience in an incredible sculpture dedicated to
the sea. The visitors are spectators of strange
and disturbing creatures which turn in a gigantic mechanical aquarium on three levels. They
discover the sea in all its states. The Big Elephant links the Carousel to the Vessels which
house the Machines gallery and the workshop. Not far from there, the magical place proposes a true magic school.
www.lesmachines-nantes.fr
www.lelieumagique.com
Indian Forest, Moutiers-les-Mauxfaits
Welcome to the largest adventure park in
France! Let the children follow Passe-Muraille
and answer Father Bernard’s questions in the
Fort débrouillard (Crafting Fort). Explore 16 treetop adventure courses (age 5+), take a tenmetre jump into the air and land safely on an
inflatable mattress, whizz down the 2 km zip-line
through the treetops and over the pond. You
can even stay the night and sleep in
a tree house! For more information, visit
www.indian-forest-atlantique.com.
L’aquarium à Talmont-Saint-Hilaire
L’aquarium talmondais propose des nourissages publics durant la période estivale, et tous
les mercredis à 15 h 30 hors saison. Des présentations thématiques sont aussi dispatchées
toute la journée. Un bac « Les Sables-d’Olonne »
accueille enfin les poissons trouvés le long des
côtes vendéennes. L’occasion de redécouvrir un
banc de bars mouchetés, des émissoles, roussettes, maigres, etc.
www.aquarium-vendee.com
6
7
Baby rock climbing with Tépacap, Le Mans
Rock climbing isn’t just for the grown-ups.
Tépacap, located in Le Mans, invites you to
test the “bubble”: a structure of inclined
panes equipped with handholds that lets children, aged 4-8, climb around freely without
the trouble of a harness.
www.tepacap-lemans.fr
6
History Museum, Cholet
At the heart of Cholet lies the Museum of
Art and History, showcasing an exceptional
collection of sculptures, paintings and historical objects. A visit to the museum is
best planned in two phases, with the fascinating galleries that retrace the history of art
throughout the 19th and 20th Century, followed by the history of the Vendée Wars.
Save some time to explore the museum’s
labyrinth for an interactive ending to your
visit. More information at ville-cholet.fr.
7 Doué-la-Fontaine Bioparc
Visit one of the most beautiful zoos in Europe for a breathtaking adventure into a
troglodyte world, surrounded by fascinating animals. Discover the largest aviary in
Europe, trek through the rhino valley and
enjoy the many animations offered by the
Bioparc team. Let the kids become Little
Investigators and lead the team for an afternoon of family fun, and spend time observing and learning together. More
information at zoodoue.fr.
8
Robert Tatin Museum, Cossé-le-Vivien
Robert Tatin (1902-1983) dedicated his life
to documenting the experience and knowledge that enabled him to become an exceptionally creative master-builder. His
house, now a museum, lies in the heart of
Mayenne, in Cossé-le-Vivien and tells his
story. This 1,200 m² space reveals the artist’s incredible talent for painting, sculpting, ceramics and building. Follow the
guided tour to discover his works and his
art. The Tatin experience begins with the
allée des Géants (the Giants’ alley) where
19 statues symbolise the artist’s personal
landmarks of the human adventure.
www.musee-robert-tatin.fr
9 The Arche Refuge at Château-Gontier
Renowned in France and internationally,
the Arche Refuge is home to many local
8
9
animals that are ill or have been wounded.
Once they are cured, they are returned to
their natural habitats and only those who
are too reliant on man’s help get to stay.
Domestic and exotic animals, whose owners abandoned them, are also welcomed
at the Arche. They enjoy spacious accommodation: parks, aviaries and shelters, surrounded by terraces and viewpoints. A
photographer’s paradise, free of fences,
for the perfect shot of lions, tigers, bears,
wolves, monkeys, and many more…
www.refuge-arche.org
10 Oh la la, what an adventure!
In Loire-Atlantique, the adventure is to be
lived in family. Thus the department has
grouped together 22 visits specially intended for families, hence particularly for children. Among them you will find Croisic
Océarium, the ramparts of Guérande,
Land of Salt, Jules-Verne museum, Boissière du Doré zoo, Clisson castle. The visits
are adapted to little ones as well as big
ones for a playful discovery of activities
where visitors are actors.
www.ohlaloireatlantique.com
■ A Puy du Fou adventure!
The Puy du Fou was awarded “World's best theme park” in Los Angeles, and is celebrating its 25th anniversary with fireworks and a world fun to discover in 2013! Get ready for a journey through time!
From €107 per person. (based on 1 adult + 1 child.) • 3 days/2 nights • Includes: 2 nights (in a hotel, private residence, guestroom or castle guestroom) located 2 to 63 km from the park, breakfast, tickets to the Puy du Fou Grand Parc (2 days), tickets to
Cinéscénie and to the night-time show Les Orgues de Feu at the Grand Parc. Valid: Thursday through Saturday and Saturday
through Monday on select Cinéscénie dates in 2013. Reservations with Vendée Tourisme: +33 (0)2 51 62 76 82
Photo Cinéscénie le Puy du Fou
■ Child Friendly Cities – Cholet
Cholet is a proud holder of UNICEF France’s label Ville amie des enfants (Child Friendly Cities). Enjoy great
family fun in a world of activities: local children’s fashion and play courses, the Catimini exhibition, the aquatic
world of Glisséo, the Art & History Museum, and the Maulévrier Oriental Park.
From €165 for a family of 4. (2 adults + 2 children) • 2 days/1 night • Includes: 1 night (four-person room), breakfast for 4,
entrance to the Textile and Art & History Museums, Glisséo tickets, entrance to the Maulévrier Oriental Park.
Valid: March 15th through November 15th 2013. Cholet Tourism Office: +33 (0)2 41 49 80 03
Photo Lepeltier Fabien, Cholet Sports Loisirs
A Souvenir of your stay…
2
ÉCHOS
Everyone takes home a jar of Guérande sea salt, a bottle of Muscadet wine, or a
box of sardines from Saint-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie, and you should too! But... there are
other souvenirs that we neither eat nor drink.
Of Pornic
earthenware
factory
Ask for your first name! You
cannot leave Loire-Atlantique department without
getting this famous blue-rimmed white bowl, badly imitated sometimes in the
souvenirs shops where the
tradition of free-hand painted
calligraphy is not respected. The
name-bowl, you’d better know,
was born in Pornic earthenware
factory and nowhere else. The success
of this tradition, which would date back to the 18th century, keeps
up: between 10000 and 40000 pieces are produced per day!
Contact : +33 (0)2 40 82 01 73
The Brière knife
Le Mans
Discover the artists of the Sarthe area
Be sure to visit Les Créateurs, a boutique shop located in Le
Man’s Place du Hallai that showcases the work of several talented local artists: hats, pearl-spun glass necklaces, cardboard furniture, mosaic artwork, hand-painted tea sets,
organic scented soaps… Shop for great gifts and find budget-friendly ideas from just €5.
Contact : + 33 (0)8 99 23 48 71
Made from fossilised wood over 5,000 years
old (morta), the Brière knife is a tool of many of
the locals. It’s sturdy but also light and the wood is
so old and darkened that it won’t rot. In Saint-André-desEaux in the heart of the Brière, you can visit the knife makers who
describe it as the ‘gentry knife’. Call 00 33(0)2.40.01.51.72 or 00 33
(0)6.58.86.13.75 to visit the JHP workshop.
Villaines-la-Carelle
Horsehair trimmings
Toiles de Mayenne in Fontaine-Daniel
Toiles de Mayenne is one of the last surviving French weavers. The
workshop was founded in 1806 and to this day operates independently in Fontaine-Daniel, developing expert know-how in the production of high-quality decorative fabrics. The company creates
and weaves artful designs through colours and patterns that are
used to dress paintings, seats and various objects.
www.toiles-de-mayenne.com
From curtain tiebacks to napkin holders and key chains: these
horsehair treasures and artistic trimmings come to life through
unique French expertise. In the depths of the Perseigne forest,
Béatrice Angèle apprenticed with a
master fringemaker
before setting up her
weaving workshop
named Chic Tentation in Villaines-laCarelle. Visits by
appointment only.
www.chic-tentation.fr
Crédit photos : Gennes – Le Thoureil © J.Damase ; Nantes © J.D. Billaud Nautilus

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