south america - Audley Travel

Transcription

SOUTH AMERICA
PERU
BOLIVIA
ECUADOR & THE GALAPAGOS ISLANDS
CHILE
ARGENTINA
URUGUAY
PARAGUAY
ANTARCTICA
FALKLAND ISLANDS
BRAZIL
VENEZUELA
GUYANA
DUTCH ANTILLES
TA I L O R - M A D E J O U R N E Y S
DEAR TRAVELLER
South America is undergoing a travel renaissance.
Its years of having something of a risky reputation
are behind it, and the region is now proving itself
to be a safe, vibrant and thoroughly exciting travel
destination. The diversity of travel experiences is
simply breathtaking, and each country has its own
unique charms and attractions. From exploring the
lost Inca city of Machu Picchu to learning the tango
in Buenos Aires, from swimming with sea lions in
the Galapagos Islands to cruising down the mighty
Amazon River, South America has something for
every travel taste.
With so much to see and do, it is important that
your trip is planned by someone with first-hand
experience who is able to talk you through the
highlights and potential pitfalls. Our South America
team is comprised of committed individuals with a
passion for their respective countries of
specialisation. They have lived, studied, worked and
travelled extensively in the region and combine a
cultural understanding and enthusiasm for the
sights and sounds with a knowledge of how travel
actually ‘works’ in the destination.
This brochure covers South America from top to
toe, from the classic travel destinations such as
Torres del Paine and the Galapagos Islands, to the
lesser-known highlights of Guyana and the Falkland
Islands. We also include adventure cruises to
Antarctica, possibly the world’s ultimate travel
frontier. Our knowledge of these destinations,
combined with our extensive network of handpicked guides and our close partnerships with the
best local ground operators, means we believe that
your Audley experience in South America will be
the very best.
If you are travelling here for the first time, or
returning to further explore an addictive continent,
I hope you find our brochure inspiring and that our
passion for the region and its people shine through.
We look forward to helping you arrange your trip.
Craig Burkinshaw
Managing Director
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AUDLEY TRAVEL
Audley Travel was established by Craig Burkinshaw
with the simple philosophy of offering clients the
best possible travel experience. Craig recognised
that the only way of achieving this was to have
detailed, in-depth knowledge of each country we
featured backed by a no-compromise attitude to
quality and service. Audley now offers a
comprehensive range of programmes throughout
Latin America, Asia, Africa, the Middle East and
Australasia.
SPECIALIST KNOWLEDGE
AND CAREFUL PLANNING
Our South America specialists have all travelled
extensively throughout the region and in many
cases have lived there: you can rely on their firsthand knowledge. We also insist that they regularly
re-visit the region, to meticulously inspect the hotels
and keep abreast of all aspects of travel. We believe
this approach is unique to Audley and ultimately
ensures that you will have the finest possible travel
experience. Our specialists have a boundless
enthusiasm for their chosen countries and take an
honest ‘tell it how it is’ approach to planning an
itinerary, suggesting sights, selecting
accommodation and discussing the practicalities of
travel.
A JOURNEY TO SUIT YOU
You may be choosing to travel for all sorts of
reasons, whether to view wildlife, explore the
culture and history of a region, discover spectacular
landscapes, get another stamp on your passport or
simply to relax. For many Audley clients it is a
combination of all these, while others have more
specialised interests such as photography, festivals,
music and dance or birdwatching. In all cases we
can use our detailed knowledge to plan your ideal
itinerary.
TAILOR-MADE
TRAVEL
The joy of tailor-made travel is that your complete
trip is designed around your own requirements,
so you are not tied to the set itinerary of a group.
This allows you to explore at your own pace and
select accommodation that suits your needs,
with our specialist knowledge at your disposal to
perfect your travel plans. Throughout the brochure
you will find suggested itineraries designed by
our specialists as the best travel options to suit
most travellers. These can be adjusted to
accommodate your tastes and interests or
completely re-planned to match your requirements.
HOW TO PLAN YOUR
JOURNEY WITH AUDLEY
We suggest that you read through the brochure
to obtain a feel for the wealth of South America’s
travel possibilities. Once you have an idea of the
type of trip you want to take, or want some
general guidance, call one of our specialists on
01869 276 210. They will answer any questions
you have and discuss your travel plans and ideas
in detail, making suggestions where appropriate.
We will then send you a detailed itinerary
complete with maps, accommodation information,
colour photographs and a price. Once you have
read through the itinerary we will answer any
further questions and refine the tour until you are
totally satisfied. The booking process starts when
we receive your deposit and booking form, at
which point we can confirm all the services.
From start to finish, the same person will be
handling your travel arrangements: feel free to call
them at any time.
RESPONSIBLE TOURISM
We are passionate about the countries we specialise
in and naturally take a responsible approach to the
way we operate in these regions, and try to
maximise the benefits that tourism can bring to the
local community. We are working with Tourism
Concern and AITO’s Responsible Tourism
department to ensure that our own policies and
commitments are effective. We have been awarded
three stars, the maximum achievable, by AITO in
recognition of our responsible tourism policies. We
have drawn up a comprehensive Responsible
Tourism policy that summarises our commitments
and actions, with more details available on our
website or on request. If you are interested in
visiting a community tourism project or a local
charity, please contact your country specialist who
will be happy to try to fit this into your itinerary.
Many people find that this is a good way of getting
off the beaten track and really learning something
about a country and its people.
FINANCIAL SECURITY
CONTENTS
You can book with us with
confidence, knowing that we are
fully bonded with the Civil Aviation
Authority and hold an Air Tour
Operators’ License (ATOL 4817). This
fully covers all holidays that involve air travel. If you
are using Audley to arrange the ‘land only’ part of
your trip then you will be protected by our Travel
Organiser’s Failure Cover insurance policy.
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2-5
Peru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-17
Bolivia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18-23
Ecuador . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24-31
Galapagos Islands . . . . . . . . . 32-33
Chile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34-43
Argentina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44-55
Uruguay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
Paraguay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
Antarctica . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56-59
Falkland Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . 60-63
Brazil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64-75
Venezuela . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76-79
Guyana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80-81
Dutch Antilles . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82-83
INTRODUCTION
3
PHOTOGRAPHY
We would like to thank the following
photographers and organisations whose excellent
work appears in this brochure: Anthony Cassidy,
Jamie Marshall, John Carr, Paul Medley, Alan Ward,
Alamy, Eye Ubiquitous, Bruce Coleman Collection,
Simon Heyes, John Fowler, Andrew Prossin for
Peregrine, Polar Star, Explorer II, Quark Expeditions
and the Audley Latin America department.
www.audleytravel.com
TRAVEL IN SOUTH AMERICA
TRANSPORTATION
Whilst South America is a fascinating and
rewarding place to visit, it is a developing region of
the world. To this end, a flexible attitude regarding
aspects we would perhaps take for granted is
required when travelling. The continent as a whole
has a relaxed ‘manaña’ (tomorrow) culture which is
generally an appealing way of life but can
sometimes be frustrating to the visitor. We, and our
local agents, endeavour to make sure that all trips
run smoothly but an adaptable attitude may
sometimes be required – it is all part of the
adventure.
We use the most convenient means of transport for
each sector of your journey and it is likely that the
Audley specialist planning your trip has travelled
along that route themselves. When a road journey
is worthwhile to make the most of the stunning
scenery or interesting stops en route we will
certainly recommend it. You will travel in either
private vehicles driven by a local driver and often
also be accompanied by an English-speaking guide,
or we may make use of the local buses and
coaches, depending on the destination and your
budget. South America boasts some of the world’s
greatest rail journeys, and we will recommend
these where possible. Apart from these few routes
however the rail network is sadly sparse and
unused. The flight network in the region is
extensive and reliable, so is often the best - or in
some cases the only - way to travel between certain
destinations as distances are often large.
ACCOMMODATION
With Audley, where you stay is very much part of
the experience. South America is brimming with
unique accommodation options, from the colonial
hacienda properties (farming estates) of Ecuador
and the estancias of Argentina, to the luxurious
Explora properties of Chile, and the delightful
colonial pousadas (guesthouses) of Brazil. Although
in some areas international-style hotels are the best
available option, and other places are so far off the
beaten track there are only basic lodges, wherever
possible we have tried to track down some of the
more unusual, character accommodation options.
We regularly inspect the accommodation options,
updating our knowledge on existing properties and
researching new ones. Some of our favourite and
more interesting examples are featured within the
country sections of the brochure, although we can
recommend many others to suit all budgets and
tastes: just call to find out more.
PERSONAL VISITS
Our offices are located in rural Oxfordshire with
easy access from the M40. If you would like to
discuss your travel arrangements in person we
welcome personal visits, although it is best to
always call in advance. Follow the M40 to junction
9. Take the A41 to Bicester, following the signs to
Buckingham through the town. One mile beyond
Bicester take the second turning to Stratton Audley,
then first left into our offices at Willows Gate.
GUIDES
The quality of your guide can make the difference
between a good trip and an outstanding one. The
guides we use in South America have been carefully
selected by ourselves, or our representatives in the
countries, as the best available and great care has
been taken over their training. They provide more
than just dates or names and strive to offer a real
insight into their country or region. We have heard
numerous happy stories from Audley clients who
feel that by the end of their trip they have made a
lifelong friend.
4
GROUP TRAVEL
If you wish to travel with a group of friends, maybe
with a shared special interest, we will be happy to
help and can make all the arrangements. For larger
groups we may be able to offer a free place to the
organiser. Please call us to discuss your plans.
Complementing our brochure is our website, which
offers additional information such as exclusive
offers, travel advice, photographic galleries and
travel ideas. There is also the opportunity to register
to receive our e-news updates, meet our team of
specialists and submit a detailed on-line itinerary
and quotation request.
TERMS AND CONDITIONS
AND TRAVEL INSURANCE
Your booking is subject to the Terms and
Conditions of Audley, which are detailed in a
separate leaflet. It is vital that you have adequate
travel insurance and we are able to offer a number
of policies either for the duration of your trip or on
an annual basis.
FLYING TO SOUTH AMERICA
We will choose the most convenient international
airline for your trip across the Atlantic, taking into
consideration your preferences, price, availability
and your location within the UK. We use the
services of reputable airlines such as British Airways,
LAN, Iberia, KLM, TAP Air Portugal, Varig, TAM and
Aerolineas Argentinas. Our specialists can advise on
the different routes as well as the individual
advantages of each airline. You may want to
consider flying in a premium cabin: British Airways
offer a good-value interim option between
economy and business class (certain routes only),
and we can offer competitive business class
supplements with all airlines mentioned opposite.
IBERIA
Iberia Airlines has the largest network of flights to
South America, with the most destinations and
frequency of flights. A member of the Oneworld
Alliance, the national carrier of Spain offers very
competitive fares in both economy and business
class. All flights are via Madrid.
KLM ROYAL DUTCH AIRLINES
KLM flies to various destinations in South America
via Amsterdam from London Heathrow and 15 UK
regional airports. All long-haul flights touch down
in the Dutch Antilles in the Caribbean.
BRITISH AIRWAYS
On the ground and in the air, British Airways sets
itself the highest standards in everything it does. So
whichever cabin you choose to travel in, you can be
sure your holiday will get off to a flying start.
World Traveller
Pre-allocated seats, subject to availability.
Ergonomically designed seat with 31” pitch and
soft adjustable ‘ears’ to support the head and neck.
Personal video screen with up to 18 video and
audio channels including movies, sports and
dedicated children’s channels. New menus created
with the help of the British Airways Culinary
Council, with a choice of delicious food options.
Complimentary bar service throughout the flight.
World Traveller Plus
A quiet, more private premier economy cabin ‘away
from the crowd’ with a maximum of 5 rows of
seats. Larger seats with 7” more leg room than
World Traveller. A choice of check-in options with
twice the World Traveller hand baggage allowance
of 2 pieces up to a total of 12 kg and pre-allocated
seats, subject to availability. Once on board, you will
find the seats include four-way lumber support,
additional recline with headrest and footrest.
Personal video screen with up to 18 video and
audio channels of continuous entertainment. A
choice of hot food options. Complimentary bar
service throughout the flight.
Club World
Dedicated check-in desks. Fast Track Departures to
speed you through immigration at London airports.
Access to over 200 lounges worldwide. Armchair
style seat and footstool convert into a unique 6’ flat
bed at the touch of a button on selected services,
with retractable privacy screens between seats.
Some flights have the award winning Club World
Cradle seat with 4-way lumber support; please ask
for details at time of booking. Personal video screen
with up to 18 video and audio channels.
Complimentary bar service including fine wines and
champagne.
FIRST
Dedicated FIRST check-in desks. Fast Track
Departures to speed you through immigration at
London airports. Access to over 200 departure
lounges worldwide including dedicated FIRST
lounges. Exclusive personal demi-cabin creates a
private environment. Seat converts to a 6’ 6”
horizontal bed at the touch of a button. Fold down
companion seat allows you to dine or chat with a
fellow FIRST passenger. Large duvet and pillow plus
sleeper suit on overnight services. Personal video
player with a choice of over 25 videos plus 18 video
channels and 12 audio channels. A la carte dining
includes a wide range of snacks and delicious five
course meals from internationally acclaimed chefs.
Complimentary bar service including fine wines and
champagne.
LAN
The national airline of Chile, LAN was voted ‘Best
Airline in South America’ in 2004. Flights go via
Madrid to Chile, Peru and Ecuador and on to a
large range of destinations within South America.
It is a member of the Oneworld Alliance.
VARIG BRAZILIAN AIRLINES
A member of the Star Alliance, Varig has daily
flights from Heathrow to Sao Paulo and Rio, and
many onward connections to destinations within
Brazil and South America as a whole.
TAP AIR PORTUGAL
TAP Air Portugal flies to various destinations
throughout Brazil via Lisbon. With direct flights to
cities in the northeast of the country, TAP offers a
good option to those who do not wish to backtrack
to Sao Paulo on the way home.
TAM
Operating frequent services to Brazil via Paris
Charles de Gaulle, TAM also has an extensive flight
network within Brazil for onward travel options.
AEROLINEAS
ARGENTINAS
The national carrier of Argentina, Aerolineas
Argentinas operates daily flights from London to
Buenos Aires and then on to various destinations
within South America.
FLIGHTS FROM
REGIONAL AIRPORTS
If you would prefer to fly from your local airport we
can arrange this, either as a connecting flight to
Heathrow or via an overseas airport such as Madrid,
Amsterdam or Lisbon. Please let us know at the
time of booking as it may affect the choice of
airline.
INTRODUCTION
5
Peru
From the mighty Andes to the steamy
Amazon and everything in between,
Peru’s appeal to the visitor is manifold.
A fascinating history that spans
thousands of years and countless
civilizations from 2000BC to the
bloody conquest by the Spanish in the
6
1500s has left the Peru of today with a
myriad of fascinating ancient sites.
These man-made wonders are set
against a breathtaking backdrop of
snow-capped mountains, sapphire lakes,
terraced fields in all shades of green and
gold, and forested emerald slopes that
tumble down into the Amazon basin.
Whether your interest lies in ancient
ruins, trekking, wildlife, discovering the
joys of the welcoming and colourful
Peruvian culture or all of the above,
Peru is a place that will delight each
step of your journey.
AUDLEY IN PERU
Peru has an array of ‘must-see’ sights that tend to
be visited in a logical route, and at Audley we pride
ourselves on being able to offer our clients these
classic trips but also something to make your trip a
more authentic and personal experience. During
our extensive travels throughout the length and
breadth of the country researching hotels and
excursions we have discovered some options that
will allow you to escape the crowds just for a while,
be it a quiet lunch in a hacienda, a homestay or a
private Inca Trail walk. To make the most of the
country, trips to Peru tend to be busy affairs with
plenty of early mornings and long days, although
we will ensure that you have time to rest, and also
time to acclimatise to the altitude. Internal flights
(which tend to be scheduled in the mornings,
hence the need for early starts) are used where
necessary, but wherever possible we prefer to make
use of the spectacular road and rail journeys that
link the main towns and sights.
CLIMATE
Peru can be visited all year round, although the
peak season for visiting the Andean areas is
between May and October. Outside of this period it
can be rainy, although this offers the advantage of
fewer visitors, greener scenery and abundant flora,
including orchids at Machu Picchu. The Amazon is
generally hot, wet and humid year round.
ACCOMMODATION
Peru has a wide range of excellent hotels that cater
to all budgets. The recent surge in tourism however
has led to pressure on the availability of rooms,
therefore booking early, especially for travel in the
peak season, is advised. Our Peru specialists have
inspected hotels throughout the country, and we
have handpicked our favourites based on their
character (colonial heritage has been put to good
use in Cuzco in particular, where there are several
fine hotels occupying beautifully renovated colonial
properties), location and levels of service. From the
plush Orient Express properties of Lima, Cuzco and
Machu Picchu, to homestays on Lake Titicaca, we
endeavour to tailor your accommodation to your
budget and preferences.
Amazon rainforest
PERU
7
LIMA
Once reputed to be the most beautiful city in all of
Spanish America, Lima today can be something of a
challenge. It is, however, brimming with heritage
and a worthwhile stop for a night or two. The main
attractions are those that remain of the colonial and
Republican era, such as the bustling Plaza de Armas
with its grand Presidential Palace and cathedral
where the remains of Francisco Pizarro, who
conquered the Inca Empire for the Spanish, are
thought to be interred. The museums are
particularly worth exploring and it is here that Lima
comes into its own as an informative and
entertaining city, as you learn about the fascinating
cultures whose remnants you will see later on your
trip. The Inca and pre-Inca ceramics at Larco Herrera
and the amazing collection of weapons and
jewellery at the Gold Museum are not to be missed,
and a meal at the Huaca Pucllana restaurant, which
overlooks the site of a major pre-Inca archeological
dig, is recommended. Lima is also the starting point
for the recently restored train service to Huancayo,
the world’s highest passenger railway and an
engineering masterpiece. The train picks its way out
of Lima before climbing a breathless 4,829 metres
in six hours, and then threads its way through a
plateau of glacial lakes, mining towns and fertile
valleys on its way to Huancayo. Please contact us
for departure dates of this train.
Country Club, Lima
Country Club, Lima
The Lima Country Club is a historic boutique hotel,
originally built in 1927 and recently renovated. The
rooms are large and elegant, and decorated with a
mix of classic colonial and Peruvian works of art.
Located close to Lima’s entertainment and restaurant
area, this hotel is a fine way to start a trip to Peru.
Santa Catalina convent, Arequipa
8
NAZCA
& THE SOUTH COAST
South of Lima, a huge monkey appears etched in
one continuous line into the barren landscape.
Other complex images include a hummingbird,
condor, spider and various geometric shapes. These
are the Nazca Lines, one of the world’s most
bewildering archaeological sights, believed to date
back to 400BC, but their origin and purpose are still
a mystery. A trip to see this phenomenon begins on
the Pan American Highway which snakes out of
Lima and then arrows through a landscape of
barren desert interspersed with fertile valleys
growing grapes for pisco, and rolling golden sand
dunes being pounded by Pacific waves. You can
make this journey either by comfortable public bus,
or in a private 4WD. From the town of Ica you can
board a small plane for a scenic flight over the
Nazca lines. You can also visit the ancient mummies
at the local museum, relax by Huacachina’s palmfringed lagoon, which is set against a backdrop of
mountainous sands, or head out on a morning boat
trip from Paracas to the Ballestas Islands, home to
hordes of sea lions and a wonderful variety of
birdlife.
Hotel Cantayo, Nazca
This recently converted former hacienda in the lush
oasis valley of Nazca provides a welcome retreat from
the surrounding desert. The hotel, a great base for
visiting the famous Nazca lines, has extensive,
colourfully landscaped grounds which are home to the
horses used for riding tours of the valley and a few
llama. Just outside the gates the archaeological
remains of pre-Incan aqueducts are well worth
investigating. The rooms are spacious and there is a
pool with views to the nearby hills. The atmosphere
here is one of calm and relaxation, perfected by a
range of spa treatments on offer to those who want to
pamper themselves.
Nazca Lines
Classic
Peru
This tour takes in Peru in all its wonderful diversity.
Start in the bustling capital of Lima, visit the elegant
city of Arequipa and the remarkable Colca Canyon
that lies outside it. Continue on to the glittering waters
of Lake Titicaca and then head for Cuzco and Machu
Picchu, the vibrant heart of the country. It is a full but
rewarding trip that makes use of many of the great
road and rail journeys between destinations.
Countryside near Arequipa
Day 1:
Fly from the UK to Lima.
Day 2:
Spend a day visiting the sights of the
capital.
Day 3:
Fly to Arequipa, visit the tranquil Santa
Catalina convent.
Day 4:
Head out by road into the dramatic
Andean countryside and the Colca Valley.
Day 5:
An early morning visit to Condor’s Cross
to spot some of these magnificent birds.
An afternoon at leisure.
Day 6:
Travel by road on to Puno, on the shores
of Lake Titicaca, visiting the burial tombs
at Sillustani en route.
Day 7:
Take to the lake and visit some of the
islands and people of Lake Titicaca.
Day 8:
Board the PeruRail service from Puno to
Cuzco, one of the world’s greatest rail
journeys.
Day 9:
Exploring Cuzco’s museums, churches,
streets and nearby Inca ruins.
Day 10:
At leisure to make the most of Cuzco.
Day 11:
Travel by road into the Sacred Valley of
the Incas, visit markets and ruins, and
have lunch in a restored hacienda.
Day 12:
Take the train to Machu Picchu, spend
the afternoon exploring.
Day 13:
Make the most of this day to return to
the site before taking the afternoon train
back to Cuzco.
Day 14:
Fly to Lima, and then back to the UK.
Day 15:
Arrival in the UK.
AREQUIPA
The bustling ‘White City’ of Arequipa rests in the
shadow of ice-capped volcanoes, their peaks the
tombs of young Inca girls sacrificed to the Gods,
and their pale rocks used by the Spanish in the
construction of the city below. Arequipa is a useful
place to begin the acclimatisation process, but is
also interesting to explore in its own right. The
highlight is the Santa Catalina convent, a miniature
city within a city. This peaceful haven, with russet
and blue walled streets lined with bright geraniums,
is still, 400 years after it was built, home to an
order of nuns.
COLCA CANYON
The road from Arequipa towards Colca leads first
through a rugged landscape dominated by
volcanoes and seemingly home only to wild llama
and vicuña. Finally you emerge into a fertile region
dotted with traditional villages where farming still
takes place on the pre-Inca agricultural terraces.
This is the Colca Valley, and at its end is the Colca
Canyon, said to be one of the deepest in the world.
The steep green canyon walls are home to Andean
condors and you will hopefully see families of these
majestic birds nesting, scavenging and soaring on
the thermals above and below you.
Colca Lodge, Colca Valley
Colca Lodge, Colca Valley
Located in the heart of the Colca Valley, Colca Lodge
provides the perfect base for excursions to Condor’s
Cross to experience close up views of these
magnificent condors as they soar over the dramatic
landscape. The comfortable lodge is decorated in a
rustic style and has its own thermal springs, located at
the bottom of the valley next to the Colca River,
providing the perfect opportunity to relax against the
stunning backdrop of the terraced valley. Trekking is
also available for those staying for a couple of nights or
more.
Parador del Colca, Colca Valley
Built from natural materials such as adobe, stone and
thatch from the surrounding area, the Parador del
Colca is a charming and friendly eco-lodge in a
stunning setting. Power comes from solar panels, water
is from natural springs and food from the surrounding
fields. Activities include hiking with llama, horseback
riding, canoeing and trekking.
EXTENSIONS
Cuzco is the ideal place to start a journey into the
Amazon. Whether you have just a couple of days and
want to get a taste of the jungle, or you wish to get all
the way to Manu, we can include Amazon stays in
any itinerary to Peru. The Nazca Lines are another
place that are easily included in an itinerary, either as
a two or three day trip from Lima, or on an overland
route from Lima to Arequipa. Those who are pushed
for time can see them in a day from Lima by flying the
whole way.
tailor-made travel
All our travel arrangements are on a private,
individual basis to offer you complete freedom of
choice. The itineraries and accommodation options
throughout the brochure are designed to give you a
flavour of what is possible and can be tailor-made to
suit your preferences. Prices vary according to
selected accommodation and season. Please call
our South America specialists on 01869 276 210 to
discuss your individual requirements.
Condor, Colca Canyon
PERU
9
Lake Titicaca
LAKE TITICACA
The bright blue waters of Lake Titicaca ripple across
the altiplano (high plain) of Peru and Bolivia. Its
shores and islands, lapped by the chilly waters, are
a land of legends, ancient customs and colourful
dress, with the locals holding firmly to their preconquest traditions. The town of Puno is the ideal
base for exploring the sights of the area. Visit
Sillustani to see some of the stone burial towers
(“chullpas”) that have dotted the shores since preInca times, and go on board the Yavari, a Victorian
steamship that was carried by mule in pieces up to
the lake over 100 years ago and is now being
lovingly restored to take passengers again. Wrap up
warmly and take to the deep waters by motorboat
and as Puno disappears behind you the immense
snow-capped Cordillera Real range of mountains in
Bolivia will appear on the horizon. Sail to the
floating Uros Islands which feel springy underfoot
as they are made from the tortora reed that grows
on the lake. Further out, on Taquile Island and
Amantani Island, take a walk past terraces of lima
beans, maize and potatoes tended by shyly smiling
locals, and learn about the origins of their unusual
traditional dress and farming methods from the
islanders themselves. For a more unusual experience
we can also arrange homestays with the local
families here.
Suasi Lodge, Suasi Island
Suasi Lodge,
Suasi Island
Tiny Suasi Island is in the north east of Lake Titicaca,
on it is this tranquil lodge run by the friendly Marta. A
stay here, amongst the flowers and vicuñas, is always
an utterly relaxing experience. The rooms are light and
welcoming, the communal areas are spacious yet cosy,
and the food is wholesome and hearty.
Taquile Island
10
Uros Islanders, Lake Titicaca
Hotel Libertador Isla Esteves,
Puno
On the shores of Lake Titicaca, this is the ideal hotel
from which to witness the glorious sunsets and sunrises
over the lake. The rooms are warm and well
appointed, the restaurant serves fine Peruvian cuisine,
there is a sauna and jacuzzi and a private dock for
boat trips on the lake.
Incas
and Islands
Combine two of South America’s most famous sights in
one trip, by visiting Machu Picchu and the Galapagos
Islands of Ecuador. Begin with a few busy days
exploring Cuzco, the Sacred Valley of the Incas and
Machu Picchu before flying to Quito, the capital of
Ecuador, then take a week long cruise in the
Galapagos for a close encounter with some very
friendly wildlife.
Cuzco
ACROSS THE ALTIPLANO
CUZCO
Puno is the place to board the train to Cuzco. This
spectacular rail journey, on a comfortable train with
restaurant, bar and viewing carriage, takes about
ten hours. The locomotive clambers over the bleak
altiplano, a land of snow-capped peaks and herds
of llama, before descending into a lusher, greener
valley. Here the track clings to the side of the
Vilcanota River as you pass adobe villages and
waving schoolchildren before arriving, klaxon
blaring, in Cuzco. This journey also operates in the
reverse direction for those heading to Lake Titicaca
after Cuzco, and perhaps continuing to Bolivia.
There is also the option of taking this wonderful
journey by road instead. Travelling by bus or car
allows you to make a couple of stops, at the ruins
of Raqchi and the village of Andahuaylillas, famous
for its lavishly decorated church.
As the capital of the vast Inca empire and their
‘navel of the world’, Cuzco was a remarkable city,
reputedly built in the shape of a puma, full of
magnificent stone palaces and temples decorated
with gold. The conquering Spanish were impressed,
and so instead of completely destroying Cuzco,
they built their colonial city atop these solid
foundations. Koricancha is a perfect example of
this, with the skilled stonework of the Inca’s Temple
of the Sun used to underpin a baroque church.
Cuzco today is a proud, beautiful and lively city
with a vibrant art scene, excellent museums and
fine restaurants. The elegant Plaza de Armas is at
the heart of the city, and is the perfect place to
stop, sit and take in the sights around you; we
recommend that as well as exploring with a guide
you should have time to relax and soak up the
atmosphere. San Blas is the bohemian arts district,
where houses cling to the steep cobbled streets and
inside the craftsmen are hard at work. There are
also several fascinating museums such as the Inca
Museum and the Pre-Colombian Art Museum
which are worth several hours of your time. The
hills surrounding Cuzco are dotted with Inca sites
such as Tambo Machay and Sacsayhuaman, the
latter being the remains of an Inca ceremonial
centre and possibly the head of the Inca city
planners’ puma. Its massive interlocking stones are
an impressive sight, as are the views over the
terracotta roofs of the city below. Sacsayhuaman is
also the stunning backdrop to the colourful Inti
Raymi annual Sun Festival, held on 24th June.
Day 1:
Day 2:
Fly on to Cuzco, the afternoon is at
leisure to acclimatise.
Day 3:
A comprehensive tour of the highlights of
Cuzco and the nearby Inca ruins.
Day 4:
At leisure to further explore.
Day 5:
Travel into the Sacred Valley of the Incas,
visit Pisac ruins and the colourful market,
and Ollantaytambo ruins.
Day 6:
Take the train to Machu Picchu, a guided
tour of the citadel.
Day 7:
Return to the ruins in the morning to
explore further before taking the train
back to Cuzco.
Day 8:
Fly to Lima and on to Quito.
Day 9:
A tour of the capital of Ecuador and visit
the Equatorial Monument.
Day 10:
Fly to the Galapagos Islands and board
your cruise boat for a seven night cruise.
Day 11-16:
In the Galapagos Islands, daily excursions
to see the wildlife.
Day 17:
Fly to Guayaquil.
Day 18:
Fly to the UK.
Day 19:
Arrival in the UK.
tailor-made travel
Puno to Cuzco train
PERU
11
Market in the Sacred Valley
AROUND CUZCO
Hotel Monasterio, Cuzco
Built as a monastery in 1592 and converted in 1995
into an opulent hotel which is one of the finest in South
America, the Monasterio is a haven of peace and
elegance in the centre of Cuzco. The elegant rooms
and suites (some of which can be ‘oxygen enriched’ if
you are suffering from the altitude) are decorated with
fine works of religious art and are set around flowery
courtyards. The hotel even has its own chapel, an
ornate masterpiece. The Monasterio is a hotel that
deserves a guided tour or at least a drink in the
grounds, whether you are staying there or not.
Leaving Cuzco you can travel by road to some of
the fascinating surrounding towns and villages. The
Sunday market at Chinchero sees a colourful array
of goods with traditionally dressed women selling
fine handicrafts. You will have an opportunity to
see threads being dyed and woven in one of the
local houses, plus visit the remains of the royal
manor of the ruler Tupac Inca Yupanqui. The
unusual circular Inca terraces in Moray are still used
for farming today, and in Maras you can see the
busy salt workers extracting the mineral in a way
unchanged for generations since, legend has it, the
Sun God sent down a hail of salt on the people of
Maras as a punishment for rebelling against the
Incas. The different salt pans create a strange and
impressive sight, with the mountainside a
patchwork of browns and whites which you can
walk amongst.
Hotel Libertador, Cuzco
Novotel, Cuzco
This hotel is located in a building full of history - it was
originally built to house the chosen virgins of the Incas,
before becoming the home of Francisco Pizarro, the
first Spanish governor of Peru. Today it is a large and
comfortable hotel with well appointed rooms, peaceful
courtyards, and a choice of dining facilities, including a
bar with an original Inca wall.
Novotel, Cuzco
The Novotel has 99 rooms, of which we just use the
16 colonial rooms that are located around its stunning
courtyard. Carefully built around a 16th century
Spanish house, which in turn had been built on Inca
foundations, this hotel has plenty of character and a
fine location close to Cuzco’s main plaza.
Casa San Blas, Cuzco
Occupying an 18th century adobe house that was
originally home to a succession of merchant and
artisan families, the Casa San Blas is located in the
heart of the historic artisan quarter of San Blas. In this
picturesque, quieter part of the city, but just three
blocks from the main plaza, the Casa San Blas offers
excellent value with good size rooms, many with
spectacular views of Cuzco.
Hotel Monasterio, Cuzco
12
THE INCA TRAIL
Not just the preserve of Inca messengers and young
backpackers, this trail is a tough but ultimately
rewarding trek along the ancient path that served
as an avenue for news from the rest of the Inca
empire to Machu Picchu. Along the route of this
trek you will see many otherwise inaccessible Inca
ruins such as Runkuracay, Phuyupatamarca and
Wiñay Wayna, which help put the whole essence of
Machu Picchu into more of a context, plus you will
arrive to the best view of Machu Picchu, high above
from the Intipunku Sun Gate. Modern day hikers
will spend four or five days trekking and camping
along the trail accompanied by a guide and the allimportant porters who carry all the supplies and
provisions. The hardest section of the trek is day
two when you will climb up to the ominously
named “Dead Woman’s Pass” at 4,200 metres. The
best preparation for this climb, and the trek in its
entirety, is to be relatively fit beforehand,
acclimatised, sociable and patient (some of the
camps can get busy and noisy in the peak season
from June to September) and to stop for plenty of
water and photo opportunities. Though at times it
is tough, this is an unforgettable and rewarding
experience, and your first sight of Machu Picchu is
something that will remain with you for the rest of
your life. We can offer this trek on either a group or
a private basis, we can also offer the Km104 trail
for those that do not feel up to the full trek but
wish to do a walk that takes about seven hours and
provides that incredible first view from the Sun
Gate.
THE SACRED VALLEY
This winding and fertile valley between Pisac and
Ollantaytambo was at the spiritual and commercial
heart of the Inca empire. It is a beautiful, colourful
and fascinating area, guarded throughout by
ancient Inca citadels set high on the sides of the
mountains. One of the most impressive is to be
found near the little market town of Pisac. These
evocative ruins display the precise stonework that is
the trademark of the Incas, and you will see
astronomical observation posts and ceremonial
baths fed by aqueducts. The equally striking
remnants of the sturdy fortress at Ollantaytambo
rear up at the end of the paved road between
Cuzco and the Sacred Valley, dominating the town
that was once an important administrative centre
for the Incas. Today its layout and remaining Inca
walls give you the closest approximation of what an
Inca town must have looked like five centuries ago.
Countryside near Cuzco
Accommodation
in the Sacred Valley
There are some fine hotels dotted throughout the
Sacred Valley of the Incas between Cuzco and Machu
Picchu, and we recommend that you have at least one
night staying here prior to travelling to Machu Picchu.
Our favourites include the charming Sol y Luna, which
is complete with its own spa and stables, the
Pakaritampu in Ollantaytambo, La Casona in Yucay
and the Casa Andina Private Collection property.
Sol y Luna, Sacred Valley
Pakaritampu, Sacred Valley
PERU
13
Machu Picchu
MACHU PICCHU
Hidden from the world until the American explorer
Hiram Bingham stumbled across the ruins in 1911,
this magnificent citadel is one of South America’s
most famous sights. Machu Picchu rests on a saddle
between two lushly forested peaks, and its
inaccessible location only heightens its
impressiveness. Well preserved and largely intact, as
you walk between these imposing palaces, temples,
houses and storerooms it is easy to imagine the city
at the height of the Inca Empire. You reach the site
by train from Cuzco or the Sacred Valley which
delivers you into the valley below, and then a bus
journey up the windy road cut into the side of the
mountain (unless you have walked all or part of the
Inca Trail). Once at the site, our guides will ensure
you thoroughly explore and will share some of the
many theories expounding the positioning and
function of Machu Picchu. An overnight stay at
Machu Picchu or Aguas Calientes is highly
recommended, allowing you time to return to the
site early in the morning before the day trippers
arrive, and the opportunity to climb Huayna Picchu
for a breathless but wonderful alternative view, or
walk out to the Inca Bridge or up to the Sun Gate.
Machu Picchu Sanctuary Lodge
14
Machu Picchu Sanctuary Lodge,
Machu Picchu
Located close to the entrance to the citadel of Machu
Picchu, the Sanctuary Lodge is an Orient Express
property that offers high quality accommodation and
service in an enviable position. Staying here means
that you can still be exploring the ruins when all the
other visitors have left the site.
Machu Picchu Pueblo
Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel,
Aguas Calientes
The Pueblo is a mix of calm, comfort and natural
beauty. Accommodation is in whitewashed cottages,
beautifully styled with regional timber and local fabrics
and handicrafts, and within its 12 acres of grounds is
an orchid garden and several ecological trails. This
makes for a peaceful place to stay and explore when
you have returned from a busy day at Machu Picchu.
Machu Picchu Pueblo
Ancient
C u lt u r e s of P e r u
For those with a specific archaeological interest, this
tour visits the complex cultures of the northern deserts
and the enigmatic giant patterns of the Nazca Lines
before arriving at the lost Inca cities of the Andes. It is
a full exploration of the country’s fascinating history.
Lago Parón, Cordillera Blanca
NORTHERN PERU
TREKKING IN PERU
The little visited northern areas of Peru are notable
for their unique cultural and archaeological
highlights, these ancient sites and the nearby
colonial towns provide a fascinating insight into the
country’s pre-Inca heritage and tempestuous
colonial history. From the bustling city of Trujillo,
with its spacious plaza and colonial houses, explore
the pre-Inca city of Chan Chan. The largest adobe
city in the world and once capital of the Chimu
empire, you will find the remains of their palaces,
temples and gardens. Travelling through the desert
there is the chance to stop at the Huaca El Brujo
where current restoration is revealing walls
moulded with colourful images of armies and giant
spiders, and visit Chiclayo and the nearby royal
tombs of the Moche culture, which thrived from
about 200-600AD. Here the Lord of Sipan was
discovered in a tomb filled with treasure, his
remains are now in the nearby Brunning
Archeological Museum. Away from the coast, in a
pretty, mountainous setting, lies the historic town
of Cajamarca which is famed for its graceful
colonial architecture. The more adventurous could
also fly to Chachapoyas for an off-the-beaten-track
journey to the enormous unrestored ruin of Kuelap.
Peru offers some of the best mountain trekking in
the world, and if you are looking to include a
trekking element in your trip then we can provide
practical advice and excellent guides and support
teams. The breathtaking Cordilleras (mountain
ranges) of Blanca, Huayhuash and Central provide
some spectacular but challenging treks that can last
from three to 12 days (plus a few days pre-trek
acclimatisation time). We can also provide trips that
involve camping but let the jeep rather than your
legs take most of the strain. The Vilcabamba and
Vilcanota mountain areas near Cuzco also offer
some wonderful opportunities for trekking beyond
the sometimes crowded Inca Trail: superb treks
include the Salcantay and Choquequirao routes, the
Ausangate circuit and the Lares valley.
Day 1:
Day 2:
A tour of Lima including a visit to the
Larco Herrera Museum.
Day 3:
Fly to Chiclayo; visit the Temple of Sipan
and Brunning Museum.
Day 4:
Drive down the coast towards Trujillo;
visit the Wizard’s Temple and pyramids of
the Sun and Moon.
Day 5:
Morning excursion to the site of Chan
Chan; afternoon flight to Lima.
Day 6:
Travel south to Ica; visit the
Archaeological museum and the
Huacachina Lagoon.
Day 7:
Morning overflight over the mysterious
Nazca Lines; afternoon return to Lima.
Day 8:
Fly to Puno on Lake Titicaca; afternoon
visit to the stone burial tombs of
Sillustani.
Day 9:
Go out onto the lake to visit the floating
Uros Islands and the weaving community
on Taquile Island.
Day 10:
Take the train across the altiplano to the
city of Cuzco.
Day 11:
A tour of Cuzco and the nearby Inca
ruins including Sacsayhuaman.
Day 12:
Visit the ruins at Pisac and
Ollantaytambo, stay overnight in the
Sacred Valley.
Day 13:
Take the train to the railway halt at
KM104 and walk the truncated Inca Trail,
passing the ruins of Wiñay Wayna before
entering into Machu Picchu down past
the Sun Gate.
Day 14:
Explore the Inca citadel of Machu Picchu;
afternoon return to Cuzco by train.
Day 15:
Fly to Lima and then back to the UK.
Day 16:
Arrival in the UK.
Machu Picchu
tailor-made travel
Chan Chan
Cordillera Blanca
PERU
15
Turtles, Lake Sandoval
THE SOUTHERN AMAZON
The sleepy town of Puerto Maldonado, linked by
short daily flights from Cuzco and Lima, is the most
popular starting point for Amazon trips in Peru.
Characteristics of the jungle here include
meandering rivers and ox-bow lakes, which are
thriving with animal life. On the banks of the rivers
just outside the town, it is not uncommon to spot
foraging capybara, the world’s largest rodent, whilst
throngs of small parrots can be found feeding on
small clay licks hidden in small creeks. A couple of
the world’s most bizarre-looking creatures are also
resident here - the tapir, with its spiky mane, and
the pre-historic hoatzin bird, which hops around
the edges of the numerous lakes.
Reserva Amazonica
16
Accommodation
in the Southern Amazon
There is a good range of comfortable lodges a boat
ride away from Puerto Maldonado, which is situated at
the confluence of the Tambopata and Madre de Dios
rivers. Our favourites include the Reserva Amazonica,
Sandoval Lake Lodge (which is located by an ox-bow
lake where a family of giant river otters have set up
home), and the Posada Amazonas. All are delightful
lodges with excellent resident guides, and are highly
recommended for a rainforest experience. The
Tambopata Research Centre is much deeper into the
jungle and rather more basic, an early morning walk
will take you to within metres of the amazing sight of
the world’s largest macaw clay lick.
MANU BIOSPHERE RESERVE
The Manu Biosphere Reserve is famous as one of
the most bio-diverse regions in the world, and it is
certainly the most wildlife-rich area of the Amazon
that is accessible to visitors. It is a vast and pristine
wilderness encompassing 1,880,000 hectares of
grasslands, cloudforest and tropical lowlands, with
an incredible diversity of flora and fauna. Visitors
have a high chance of spotting giant otters, jaguars
and ocelots, and over 1,000 species of bird have
been recorded. The park is accessed from Cuzco,
and can be reached either by a quick, exhilarating
ride in a light aircraft to the airstrip at Boca Manu,
deep within the reserve, or by a two day road and
river journey. The latter offers the chance to stay en
route at the Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge in the
cloudforest, which gives the rare chance to see the
colourful eponymous birds, and Amazonia Lodge,
another prime birdwatching location.
Accommodation deep in the tropical area will be in
one of a number of basic, remote lodges, or a
campsite. The Manu Wildlife Centre is a simple
lodge with an excellent position close to a large
mammal lick and a macaw lick and where an
astounding 550 bird species have been recorded,
while Manu Lodge is located by an ox-bow lake
that is home to giant river otters, and black and
white caiman. There are also tented camps for
those who wish to take a longer river trip. Trips to
Manu are operated on a group basis, with
departures from Cuzco on certain days of the
week. We only use reputable operators, and prices
are higher than for trips to other Peruvian Amazon
areas. We recommend a minimum of five days to
make the most of this incredible area, and the best
time to go is between April and October.
Manu
E xplorer
One of the most biodiverse regions on earth, the
Manu area of the Peruvian Amazon offers some of the
best flora and fauna spotting opportunities in South
America. Encompassing two million hectares of virgin
cloud and rainforest, a trip here is something of an
expedition, but one that for true wildlife enthusiasts
will be unforgettable. This trip is a full Manu
experience, which visits the macaw licks and the
Manu Reserve Zone, it operates on a group basis with
departures on certain days of the month. Shorter trips
can be arranged.
Macaw clay lick
IQUITOS AND THE
NORTHERN AMAZON
The starting point for wildlife trips into the northern
part of the Peruvian jungle, Iquitos itself is worth a
look as it is the epitome of a steamy Amazon city.
Hemmed in by lakes, rivers and green forest on all
sides, the only way in or out is by boat or plane, so
once you are here the Amazon is very accessible.
This part of the rainforest is home to some ancient
Amazonian tribes as well as an immense variety of
wildlife, including the mysterious river dolphin,
which glide in and out of the small backwater
creeks.
Accommodation
in the Northern Amazon
The whole spectrum of comfort can be found in the
lodges dotted around Iquitos. At the luxurious end,
Ceiba Tops is only a short speedboat trip out of the
city, with smart air-conditioned bungalows, spacious
communal areas and a refreshing swimming pool
where you can while away hot evenings. Further into
the jungle the more basic Explornapo Lodge is situated
a short hike away from a canopy walkway which offers
an excellent chance of seeing much of the wildlife that
is audible but not visible from ground level, as well as
stunning views over the sweeping basin. Other
recommended lodges in this area include Explorama
Lodge and Muyuna Lodge.
Amazon River Cruises
A fine way to savour the rainforest is to take a cruise
on one of the elegant river boats that depart from
Iquitos. Your days will be spent meandering along the
mighty Ucayali, Marañon and Huallaga Rivers and
their tributaries, and exploring the Pacaya Samiria
National Reserve with its rich array of flora and fauna
with your guides. Week-long cruises are offered on the
19th century style wooden vessels of La Amatista and
her sister boats, which hold between 22 and 32
passengers in air-conditioned cabins. There are also
five night cruises available on the M/V Arca, a steelhulled riverboat which carries 31 passengers, or
shorter cruises on the twelve passenger M/V Amazon
Explorer. There is also the option to sail right down the
Amazon River to Manaus in Brazil, a journey of eight
days (or 11 on the return) on the M/V Marcelita, a
four decked ship that carries 52 passengers in
air-conditioned cabins with picture windows.
Day 1:
Fly from the UK to Lima. Evening arrival.
Day 2:
Fly to Cuzco, an afternoon tour of the
city and nearby Inca ruins.
Day 3:
At leisure in Cuzco.
Day 4:
Travel into the Sacred Valley of the Incas,
visit Pisac ruins and market.
Day 5:
Take the train to Machu Picchu,
disembark at KM104 to walk the last part
of the Inca Trail, to arrive at Machu
Picchu via the Sun Gate.
Day 6:
A guided tour of Machu Picchu, return by
train to Cuzco.
Day 7:
Begin your journey to Manu by travelling
by road out of Cuzco and descend into
the cloudforest. Overnight at Cock-ofthe-Rock Lodge.
Day 8:
A pre-dawn start to go birdwatching,
continue to the Madre de Dios River to
board canoes, overnight at a local lodge
in Boca Manu.
Day 9:
Travel down the Manu River, wildlife
spotted today may include giant river
otters, red howler monkeys and various
types of bird.
Day 10:
Rainforest excursions around your camp.
Day 11:
A five hour hike through the forest with
your guides, in the afternoon you will
return to Boca Manu.
Day 12:
Head down the Madre de Dios River to
the Manu Wildlife Centre, where you will
stay for the next three nights.
Day 13:
An early start to visit the macaw clay lick
that is situated close to the lodge.
Day 14-15:
Exploring the rainforest around the lodge,
there are trails that take you in search of
rare monkeys and many species of bird.
Day 16:
Head upriver to the airstrip at Boca Manu
and fly back to Cuzco.
Day 17:
Fly to Lima to connect with your flight to
the UK.
Day 18:
Arrive in the UK.
Amazon ferns
tailor-made travel
Ceiba Tops
La Amatista, Amazon cruise
PERU
17
Bolivia
Bolivia, the landlocked country at the
heart of South America, is an
unforgettable destination. Traditional
religions, languages, costumes and
festivals of many thousands of years
have been gilded by a layer of Spanish
colonialism, resulting in a colourful and
intriguing culture. Coupled with this is
18
the awe-inspiring natural beauty of
the country, from the deep blue
waters of Lake Titicaca framed by the
snow-capped mountains on the horizon
to the whitewashed colonial beauty of
Sucre, from the multi-coloured lakes
and salt flats of the southwestern
plateau to the steamy jungles of the
Amazon lowlands. Bolivians are warm
and welcoming, always pleased to see
someone who takes the trouble to visit
the country they are so rightly proud of,
and they will ensure your stay is a
memorable one.
AUDLEY IN BOLIVIA
Bolivia has long been one of our favourite Latin
American countries, and our extensive knowledge
of Bolivia comes from many years of operating
tailor-made and group travel in this region. We
return regularly and are always on the look out for
new tours and hotels as they open up. We use
internal flights between the main towns, but
outside of these areas a lot of the travelling is done
on bumpy roads in four wheel drive vehicles,
accompanied by a guide and skilled driver. We are
aware that travelling extensively through Bolivia can
be a little arduous due to the distances involved,
the altitude and the frequent delays, but firmly
believe that it is more than worth it. As well as a
stand-alone destination, Bolivia fits in perfectly with
itineraries to Peru or Chile (or both), and we have
researched the best land routes between these
three countries.
ACCOMMODATION
Accommodation options in Bolivia are limited, as
befits a country which does not yet see a high
number of foreign visitors. The main cities of La Paz
and Santa Cruz have several top class hotels, Sucre
has a couple of delightful colonial properties, and
Lake Titicaca a couple of comfortable lodges.
Outside of these areas accommodation becomes
more basic, down to properties that are little more
than huts in the remote southwestern region.
CLIMATE
The best time to visit the highland areas is April to
October, this is the cooler winter period but it
should be dry. In the southern altiplano the sky will
be blue but it will be very cold, dropping to many
degrees below freezing at night. The summer rainy
season from November to March can cause
transport problems in the highlands, while the
eastern lowlands are warm and steamy year-round.
Southern Altiplano
BOLIVIA
19
La Paz
LA PAZ
High up in the Andes, the earth suddenly falls away
to reveal a huge, bowl-shaped canyon, with a city
spread across its floor and clinging to the steep
sides. La Paz will quite literally take your breath
away with its glorious location, overlooked by the
snow-capped peak of Mount Illimani. It is a bustling
and friendly place that is fascinating to wander
around. Aymara women dressed in voluminous
skirts and bowler hats, with children swaddled in
multi-coloured blankets tied on their backs, fill the
cobbled streets with their market stalls; your
purchases here could be anything from local
handicrafts to coca leaves to mysterious potions
from the Witches Market.
La Paz
20
ADVENTURES
AROUND LA PAZ
Chacaltaya is a ramshackle lodge that proudly
claims to be the world’s highest ski-’resort’. Perched
on a clifftop at 5,600 metres, the breathtaking
views include that of the regal Huayna Potosí.
Skiing is not recommended here, but mounting a
bicycle and descending over 3,000 metres in 55
kilometres into the subtropics certainly is. This is just
one of the several exhilarating downhill bike
journeys that can be done from La Paz. Another,
that starts at the windy La Cumbre pass, ends
several thrilling hours later in the warm, somnolent
town of Coroico. Your journey (which can also be
done by car) takes you through magnificent
scenery: jagged mountains and frozen streams give
way to the citrus groves and coffee plantations of
the Yungas sub-tropical region.
Handicrafts, La Paz
TIAHUANACO
With its monoliths and carved gateways, the ruins
of Tiahuanaco lie on a windy valley near to Lake
Titicaca. It is thought they were once part of a
magnificent imperial capital that thrived 1500 years
ago and was believed to exert more influence than
the Inca Empire in its time, and possibly be the
inspiration for its more famous successor. Your
guide will point out the unusual stone carvings such
as snakes with human heads and figures with two
left hands at this intriguing site.
Reed boat making, Lake Titicaca
Journey
through Bolivia
A stunning adventure to the heart of the country, this
tour explores the incredible places along Bolivia’s
Andean spine. From the blue waters of Lake Titicaca
to the colonial towns of Sucre and Potosí to the stark
and desolate landscapes of the south, this trip is for
those with an adventurous spirit and a hankering to
get off the beaten track.
LAKE TITICACA
SUCRE
On the windswept altiplano a short distance from
La Paz, Lake Titicaca stretches out in a vast shimmer
of fathomless blue. The lake is sacred to Quechua
and Aymara people and it is rumoured that if
someone drowns in the lake, they become an
offering to the earth goddess Pachamama. To avoid
being an offering to the gods yourself, stay out of
the icy waters and instead take a hydrofoil to
explore the islands of the lake and the towns along
its shore. Spend a relaxing day on the serene Sun
Island, ambling along the paths past Inca fountains
and grazing llama, visit the floating islands of the
Uru-Iruitos community to learn about their
sustainable tourism project, and explore the
pilgrimage town of Copacabana where each
Sunday, vehicles bedecked with flowers are blessed
for the miles ahead outside the dazzling Moorishstyle cathedral.
The official capital of Bolivia, with its whitewashed
colonial centre a UNESCO World Heritage Site,
Sucre is the city that all Bolivians say you must visit.
Ornate churches are sprinkled through the narrow
streets, tiles with poems hand painted onto them
are laid into white walls, wooden balconies bear
bright flowers, and the sun usually shines. For an
insight into the local indigenous groups and their
distinctive weavings, visit the fascinating
Ethnographic Textile Museum and follow this with a
trip to some of the weaving villages themselves
such as Tarabuco and Potolo. The original
inhabitants of the Sucre region have also left a
heritage of their own – dinosaur tracks are being
uncovered nearby.
Posada del Inca, Sun Island
A small and tranquil property, the Posada del Inca is
perched atop Sun Island, in one of Lake Titicaca’s
most picturesque locations. Well tended gardens are
surrounded by glorious views of the snowy peaks of the
Cordillera Real Andean range, while friendly staff help
settle guests into simple rooms that offer a great
night’s sleep under a cosy pile of llama wool blankets.
This is a delightful stop for a night or two.
Hostal de su Merced, Sucre
In the centre of the town of Sucre, the Hostal de su
Merced is a charming colonial property that has been
restored into a cosy place to stay. The simply
decorated rooms are set off a lovely courtyard, and
the rooftop terrace provides fine views of the
terracotta roofs of the town.
Inca Utama Hotel & Spa,
Huatajata
Day 1:
Fly from the UK to La Paz.
Day 2:
Arrive in La Paz, rest in order to start
acclimatising.
Day 3:
Full day exploring the city, including a visit
to a charming hacienda on the outskirts
of the city for a relaxing lunch.
Day 4:
Drive to Lake Titicaca, visit the UroIruitos Indians on their floating islands,
and explore the Andean Eco Village.
Day 5:
Visit the ruins of Tiahuanaco and return
to La Paz.
Day 6:
Fly to Sucre, explore this delightful
colonial city.
Day 7:
Take a day trip to the colourful
indigenous market town of Tarabuco.
Day 8:
Travel by road to Potosí, take a tour of
the mine and the colonial streets of the
city.
Day 9:
Continue your road journey onto Uyuni,
visit the ‘Train Cemetery’.
Day 10:
Head off towards the Salar de Uyuni, visit
the salt mining settlement of Colchani
and the unusual Fish Island that is
covered with giant cacti.
Day 11:
Continue south past lakes of varying hues
towards the Laguna Colorada.
Day 12:
Visit the Sol de Manana geysers, take a
bath in some natural hot springs and walk
around the Laguna Verde.
Day 13:
Take the long drive back to Uyuni.
Day 14:
Continue back to Sucre.
Day 15:
Fly from Sucre to La Paz, afternoon at
leisure.
Day 16:
Transfer to the airport for your flight back
to the UK.
Day 17:
Arrival in the UK.
Posada del Inca, Sun Island
The Inca Utama property on the shores of Lake
Titicaca is a hotel and learning experience in one.
As well as the hotel and spa, there is an Andean Eco
Village where you can see demonstrations of reed boat
making from the Limachi brothers who were involved in
Thor Heyerdahl’s expeditions, and a museum covering
the history of the people of the altiplano. There is the
chance to visit a Kallawaya (natural medicine
practitioner and fortune teller) who will read your
future from coca leaves, and pay a trip to the
observatory for magnificent star-gazing in the
southern skies.
tailor-made travel
Hostal de su Merced, Sucre
BOLIVIA
21
Laguna Verde
POTOSÍ
THE SOUTHERN ALTIPLANO
Three hours by road from Sucre, melancholy Potosí
was once Latin America’s richest city. Today it is a
shadow of its former self and grand colonial houses
stand crumbling, but the skyline is still dominated
by the Cerro Rico (Rich Hill) whose silver brought
great wealth for the Spanish at the cost of
countless slave miners’ lives. No visit here would be
complete without a trip deep into one of the
remaining mines, which are now worked as cooperatives. This edifying experience begins at the
market with the purchase of gifts of coca leaves
and dynamite for the miners. Torch in hand, you
then enter into the labyrinth of tunnels to witness
the work of these men, as they use primitive tools
to chip away at the inside of the mountain to
dislodge the silver to which Potosí owes its very
existence.
Far off the beaten track, this stark and surreal
landscape makes for a bumpy, windy yet
completely captivating few days. The adventure
begins on the track to the sequestered town of
Uyuni with its outlying ‘train cemetery’, where the
skeletons of steam locomotives rust in the sun.
Continuing south, strange rock formations rise up
from the desert, mud geysers bubble and wisps of
smoke curl out of sleeping volcanoes. Flamingos
strut around lakes of bizarre but beautiful hues of
red, blue, green and white. A blinding sheet of
white awaits you at the Salar de Uyuni, the world’s
largest salt lake, where you are in a simple world of
blueness and whiteness, or even more bizarrely
where seasonal waters can reflect the sky and
dissolve the horizon. Sip coca tea sitting on an
island in the sea of salt that is covered in giant
cacti, take a dip in a natural thermal pool
overlooked by volcanoes, stay in a hotel made
entirely of salt - it all makes for an unearthly
adventure.
Sajama National Park
SAJAMA NATIONAL PARK
Legend has it that Bolivia’s highest peak, the
volcano of Sajama in Sajama National Park, is the
head that was cut off the (now flat-topped)
mountain of Mururata by the god Wiracocha as
punishment for being too arrogant. This and other
legends will be recounted by your guide on the
long but incredible road trip to Sajama. This
beautiful area, deserted except for vicuñas, is a
wonderful place to explore by foot or 4WD, either
en route to or from Lauca National Park in Chile, or
over a rugged couple of days from La Paz.
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Peru, Bolivia
and Chile
This itinerary combines three of South America’s most
beautiful and diverse countries. Explore the city of
Cuzco where Inca and Spanish heritage is evident on
every street before heading to the citadel of Machu
Picchu. You will then take a train journey across the
altiplano to the shores of Lake Titicaca and make your
way to La Paz in Bolivia. From here head to the
surreal southwestern plateau and the salt pans of
Uyuni before crossing into the Atacama Desert in
Chile. The trip ends in the sophisticated capital of
Santiago.
Llamas
SANTA CRUZ
& THE JESUIT MISSIONS
Far from the Andean peaks lies the busy and humid
city of Santa Cruz where you can see sloths
hanging in the palm-filled main plaza and crowds
worshipping in a huge church made of bamboo.
Heading northeast by road, flat farmlands merge
into rolling hills and ranches as you reach the
colonnaded streets of the sleepy Jesuit towns. The
fine religious craftsmanship of their beautiful
churches are a key part of Bolivia’s heritage, and it
is a craft that you can see being learnt today by the
young generation of the region so the loving
restoration can continue. If you have a keen interest
in wildlife, your road journey in these lowlands of
Bolivia could also take you to Amboró National Park
for a couple of days. Thanks to its three distinct
eco-systems that encompass the Amazon River
basin, the Andean foothills and the Chaco plain,
this is an area of great bio-diversity and is thought
to be home to more species of life per hectare than
anywhere else on earth.
ECOLOGICAL AREAS
As well as the previously mentioned national parks
of Sajama and Amboró, Bolivia has some stunning
areas for ecological tourism, as large swathes of the
country are virtually undiscovered. Visits to these
places are not simple or cheap, but the wealth of
bio-diversity makes for an astounding experience.
The town of Rurrenabaque in the northwest of
Bolivia is the starting point for trips into the
Amazonian area of Pilón Lajas Ecological Reserve or
the vast Madidi National Park that encompasses
cloud and rainforest. In both of these places are
excellent lodges (Mapajo in Pilón Lajas and Chalalan
in Madidi) from where you will make your
explorations of the area in order to spot some of
the local animal residents including monkeys,
caiman, turtles and macaws. The dry season of
June to October is the best time to go. Noel Kempff
Mercado National Park, in the far east of Bolivia, is
another unique habitat that encompasses rainforest
and savannah and over 620 bird species have been
recorded here including 20 species of parrot, and its
remoteness means it receives few visitors. A trip to
any of the places mentioned in this section is an
exercise in dedication - but it is worth it for the
sights that await.
Day 1:
Day 2:
Fly to Cuzco, rest in order to start
acclimatising.
Day 3:
A morning tour of the city and the nearby
Inca ruins.
Day 4:
Drive into the Sacred Valley of the Incas
and visit Pisac ruins and market, and the
ruins of Ollantaytambo.
Day 5:
Take the train to the Inca citadel of
Machu Picchu, an afternoon tour.
Day 6:
Morning at leisure to further explore
Machu Picchu before returning by train to
Cuzco.
Day 7:
Take the train across the altiplano to
Puno on the shores of Lake Titicaca.
Day 8:
Travel by road across the border with
Bolivia and then take a hydrofoil to the
tranquil Sun Island.
Day 9:
Take the hydrofoil to the Inca Utama
Hotel on the far shores of the lake.
Spend the evening exploring its museums
and observatory.
Day 10:
Drive to La Paz, have an afternoon tour
of the city.
Day 11:
Fly to Sucre, in the afternoon you will
have a tour of this colonial town.
Day 12:
At leisure, optional trips are available to
the nearby traditional villages.
Day 13:
Drive to Potosí, explore one of the
working silver mines.
Day 14:
Board your 4WD to start your journey to
the remote southwest, first you will head
to Uyuni.
Day 15:
Travel through the Salar de Uyuni to
San Juan.
Day 16:
Continue on to Laguna Colorada.
Day 17:
Travel to Laguna Verde, past Licancabur
Volcano and on to San Pedro de Atacama
in Chile.
Day 18:
Explorations in the Atacama Desert.
Day 19:
Transfer to the airport in Calama and fly
to Santiago.
Day 20:
A full day exploring the city.
Day 21:
Fly back to the UK.
Day 22:
Arrival in the UK.
Jesuit Church, Concepción
tailor-made travel
Squirrel monkey
Green frog
BOLIVIA
23
Ecuador & the
Galapagos Islands
A diminutive country that boasts a
wonderfully diverse array of sights,
Ecuador is a pocket-sized version of all
that is synonymous with Latin America.
It has a landscape dotted with smoking
volcanoes, well-preserved colonial
towns, vibrant and colourful indigenous
24
markets and vast tracts of sultry
Amazon rainforest. But Ecuador has
one unique feature all of its own - the
magnificent Galapagos Islands. Famous
for their wide variety of fearless wildlife
and as the inspiration for Charles
Darwin’s theory of evolution, a cruise
around these fascinating islands is one
of the world’s great travel experiences.
Proving the old maxim that the best
things really do come in small packages,
Ecuador has more than enough to
provide any visitor with an enthralling
trip.
ACCOMMODATION
One of the attractions of Ecuador is its charming
range of places to stay. For a taste of the colonial
heritage of the country, we recommend a night or
two in one of the restored haciendas (farmhouses)
built on the grand estates of the colonial era. Each
has its own particular history and character, the
grounds are always extensive and the settings are
often unrivalled, offering an idyllic rural retreat.
When in the cities and towns, the colonial influence
manifests itself in elegant townhouses with the
rooms usually set around a central courtyard. Often
in the heart of the old town, these hotels are ideally
placed to explore the nearby restaurants and
markets. Ecuador also has a superb selection of
lodges deep in the Amazon rainforest, many of
which are run in conjunction with the local
indigenous communities.
CLIMATE
Ecuador is a destination that can host visitors all
year round. The Andean highlands are very much
an archetypal ‘four seasons in one day’ destination,
and there are various micro-climates, though the
altitude means that it is always cold at night. The
Amazon region is hot and wet all year round. The
Galapagos Islands have hot and sunny days with
brief showers from January to June, the rest of the
year tends to be drier but cooler and overcast. Seas
can be slightly rough in July and August.
AUDLEY IN THE
ECUADORIAN MAINLAND
Ecuador is a wonderfully welcoming place, and
travelling around the compact mainland is an easygoing, entertaining and scenic experience. Based on
your preferences and budget we can provide full
time drivers and guides, or just provide you with a
vehicle and driver. However you decide to travel we
will ensure that you get the most from your trip,
whether you are making something of a road trip
and are moving on each day, or staying at one of
the haciendas for a few relaxing days. We like to
take clients with sufficient time on a journey down
the length of the country, dispensing with the need
for internal flights and ensuring you see the most
of the magnificent scenery of the country.
Local bus
25
QUITO
Set in an Andean valley with the verdant Pichincha
volcano rising to the west, Quito is the capital of
Ecuador. From the scenic hill of El Panecillo, the
Virgin of Quito spreads her silver wings and
watches over the fine colonial buildings of the old
town, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its
chaotic narrow streets, lined with colonial churches,
monasteries and mansions, radiate outwards from
attractive plazas. Recently spruced up, this part of
the city tempts the visitor with its abundance of
history at every turn and a walking tour here is a
must. The city’s newer area has less to entice the
visitor but more to entertain them, as it is here that
you will find the majority of the shops, cafes and
restaurants. From Quito you can travel an hour
north by road to visit the geographic characteristic
that gives the country its name, the equator. It is
marked by a monument and museum, and offers
the opportunity to stand with one foot in each
hemisphere.
Colonial Quito
Mansion del Angel, Quito
The epitome of style and elegance, the Mansion del
Angel is opulently furnished with crystal chandeliers, oil
paintings, luxurious chaises longues and rugs. This
small converted mansion house, located in a quiet
residential suburb of Quito, hints at a bygone time but
with all the comforts of the modern day.
Patio Andaluz, Quito
Situated in the very heart of the historic centre of
Quito, this newly converted colonial house has been
restored to a high standard, carefully retaining the
style and elegance of its era. The rooms are set
around two glass-roofed interior courtyards which let in
streams of sunshine and complement the traditional
dark woods and sumptuous materials. One of the
courtyards provides a great setting for an excellent
restaurant serving Spanish and local specialities. The
setting of this hotel means that a stroll around old
town Quito with its churches and period architecture
starts just outside the door.
Café Cultura, Quito
Successfully combining colonial tradition with
contemporary design, the Café Cultura is housed in
the former French Embassy in the midst of the
bustling new town area of Quito. Many of the
building’s fine, traditional details remain in evidence in
the high ceilings and large stone fireplaces, but this
has been intermixed with an exuberant style in the
form of bright, colourful frescoes of parrots, dolphins,
flowers and cherubs. There is a warm, homely feel to
the hotel and is ideal for those travelling on a budget.
26
Quito and Cotopaxi
Hilton Colon,
Quito
Our favourite of the many five star properties in Quito,
this hotel has a fine location at the midway point
between the old and new towns, next to the El Ejido
Park. Many of the rooms at this luxury hotel have
views of the silver statue of the Virgin of Quito over in
the old town. The comprehensive facilities provide
every comfort including a heated outdoor pool.
Termas de Papallacta
Spa & Resort, Papallacta
The town of Papallacta, located about 60 kilometres
from Quito, is renowned for its thermal springs and
their reputed curative powers. Beautifully designed and
well-managed, Termas de Papallacta is the place to
come for relaxation. The numerous thermal pools,
ranging in temperature from deliciously warm to
shockingly cold, have been cleverly constructed so that
you can relax and unwind whilst drinking in the natural
beauty of the surrounding mountains.
Virgin of Quito
Ecuador
Uncovered
This comprehensive exploration of Ecuador combines
the fascinating mainland sights of the cities of Quito
and Cuenca, a stay in a historic hacienda and a trip
down through the area that the 19th century explorer
Alexander Von Humboldt dubbed the “Avenue of
Volcanoes” as well as a magical cruise around the
wildlife sites of the Galapagos Islands.
Otavalo market
THE CLOUDFOREST
OTAVALO
As the slopes of the high Andes head down east to
the Amazon plains and west to the coastal regions,
enormous expanses of cloudforest cover the
hillsides. The forests are full of wildlife, and are
exceptional for the high diversity of birdlife in
particular. Various reserves and national parks lie
just a couple of hours from Quito, such as
Maquipucuna, where the rare Andean spectacled
bear has been sighted, and the Mindo area, home
to myriad species of hummingbird. Bellavista is a
perfect place to while away the hours amidst
colourful butterflies and wander amongst the
orchids on the numerous wildlife trails.
A couple of hours north of Quito, the small town of
Otavalo, nestling in amongst the surrounding hills
and mountains, is famous for its bustling
indigenous market, which dates back to pre-Inca
times. Known to be one of the most colourful and
vibrant markets in Latin America, the stalls are
spread over three main squares and spill over into
the adjacent streets. The Otavaleños host the
market in their distinctive traditional dress – the
men sport calf-length white trousers, rope sandals
and ponchos and wear their hair in ponytails; the
women wear delicately embroidered blouses and
dark skirts, long hair in swinging braids, and their
wrists are adorned by red beads. Barter for one of
the many high-quality crafts and textiles on offer, or
just soak up the atmosphere with a stroll around
the market. Getting a good feel for the town and
market can be done in a day trip from Quito, but
by far the best way to enjoy the market and the
countryside around Otavalo is to stay in one of the
charming haciendas nearby. These colonial farming
estates have been converted into secluded hotels
with comfortable rooms, home-cooked food, and
tranquil gardens full of grazing llama and exotic
hummingbirds. For those who love the great
outdoors we can arrange walks by stunning crater
lakes and through sleepy villages.
Bellavista Cloudforest Reserve,
Bellavista
Dramatically nestled on the western slopes of the
Andes, and cut through by gorges, rivulets and
waterfalls, the Bellavista Reserve has an unsurpassed
location. It is just two hours by road north of Quito and
perfect for birdwatchers and nature-lovers. The lodge
itself is simple but has hot water and en-suite facilities,
and guests can relax on the veranda looking out at the
surrounding views of the volcanoes Pichincha and
Cotacachi as hummingbirds feed close by.
Day 1:
Fly from the UK to Quito.
Day 2:
A tour of the colonial ‘old city’ and an
afternoon trip to the Equatorial
Monument.
Day 3:
Travel north to Otavalo; overnight at a
historic hacienda.
Day 4:
Visit the colourful Otavalo market;
afternoon return to Quito.
Day 5:
Travel south of Quito through the
‘Avenue of the Volcanoes’ to Riobamba.
Day 6:
Take the train to Alausí and enjoy the
thrill of riding the famous ‘Devil’s Nose’;
continue by road to Cuenca via the Inca
ruins at Ingapirca.
Day 7:
Morning sightseeing in colonial Cuenca;
afternoon at leisure.
Day 8:
Travel by road through El Cajas National
Park to the port city of Guayaquil.
Day 9:
Fly to the Galapagos Islands for a 7 night
cruise on board one of the expedition
vessels.
Day 10-15:
In the Galapagos.
Day 16:
Fly from the Galapagos Islands to Quito
or Guayaquil.
Day 17:
Fly to the UK.
Day 18:
Arrival in the UK.
Souvenirs
tailor-made travel
Bellavista Cloudforest Reserve
27
Avenue of Volcanoes
Hacienda Pinsaqui
Hacienda Pinsaqui,
near Otavalo
An Audley favourite, this former hacienda located just
north of the town of Otavalo is steeped in 300 years of
history. Constructed in 1790, the estate was once a
textile producer employing up to 1000 local weavers
and spinners. Amongst its early guests was the
liberator General Simón Bolívar, who often stopped
here on his trips to and from Bogota. Nowadays, the
20 spacious and stately rooms with huge fireplaces
look out over courtyards with trickling fountains or
beautifully maintained gardens.
28
Hacienda Cusin
Hacienda San Pedro
Hacienda Cusin,
near Otavalo
This exclusive early 17th century hacienda is now
owned by an Englishman who has been careful to
preserve the hacienda’s heritage whilst developing a
welcoming retreat. Set in seven acres of land with
views to the snow-capped mountains, the garden
boasts 58 plant species attracting 49 species of bird.
There are 25 guestrooms within the main building, a
couple of secluded garden cottages within the grounds
and 15 rooms within the Monasterio complex, next to
the estate’s chapel.
Hacienda San Pedro,
near Otavalo
Located about an hour and a half’s drive from Quito
and within easy reach of Otavalo, this small traditional
hacienda looks out onto spectacular views of the
Cotacachi, Imbabura and Cayambe volcanoes. Visitors
will receive a warm and personal welcome from their
hosts, who will spoil you with their delicious homecooked cuisine. The surrounding area presents many
opportunities for walking, horseback riding or boating
with popular destinations being the beautiful lakes of
Cuicocha and San Pablo nearby.
THE AVENUE OF VOLCANOES
The long and picturesque valley south of Quito
towards Cuenca is the start of Ecuador’s indigenous
heartland. Creeping up the mountain slopes in
different shades of green and gold, the patchworkquilt fields give way to snow-capped peaks. The
most imposing of these is the perfect cone shape of
Cotopaxi, the highest active volcano in the world.
At its foot, its eponymous national park is an ideal
place for spending the night in one of the local
haciendas from where you can enjoy a gentle hike,
a visit to a rose plantation or some horseback
riding. The surrounding countryside is also
peppered with indigenous villages which play host
to colourful local markets on different days of the
week. If you drive off to the east you can visit the
pretty spa town of Baños, resting at the foot of the
temperamental Tungurahua volcano, or if you
continue down the Avenue of Volcanoes you will
reach the town of Riobamba, which lies in the
shadow of Chimborazo, the country’s highest
volcano. This is the starting point for the dramatic
“Devil’s Nose” train journey. As the train wends its
way south through the mountains and lakes, it
reaches a steep cliff where a series of thrilling
switchbacks commence that allow the train to
zigzag down the track, carved out of the sheer
rockface.
Chillo Jijon,
near Cotopaxi
Just half an hour from Quito, the Chillo Jijon is one of
the country’s most distinguished country houses, now
a luxurious and refined hotel. Dating back to 1730, it
accommodates a maximum of 12 guests in
individually furnished rooms, with drinks, 24-hour room
service and all meals included during your stay. Within
the 20 acres of private gardens and woodlands,
horseback riding and mountain bikes are perfect ways
to explore.
Local market
TREKKING
CUENCA
With such a beautiful selection of volcanoes and
mountains, Ecuador is a popular trekking
destination. If you wish to do some serious
trekking, such as climbing Cotopaxi or Chimborazo,
whilst on your trip we can offer practical advice and
excellent guides and support teams. At least five
days of acclimatisation including several day treks
are required before attempting to climb any of the
peaks.
Undisputedly Ecuador’s prettiest city, Cuenca was
founded by the Spanish in the mid 16th century.
The colonial centre is small enough to explore on
foot, and has a plethora of fine town houses and
quaint market squares, the best of which, the Plaza
de las Flores, explodes with colour in a beautiful
display of flowers. The cobbled streets, graceful
ironwork balconies and beautiful gardens led
UNESCO to declare it a World Heritage Site. The
gentle hills around the city are dotted with small
villages known for their handicrafts. A visit to this
region could well end with the purchase of a
Panama hat, as Cuenca was its birthplace. A
noteworthy example of Inca architecture, Ingapirca,
can be found north of the city, where to this day
archaeologists are still uncovering new examples of
intricate Inca stonework.
San Agustín de Callo,
near Cotopaxi
Located within the boundaries of the Cotopaxi
National Park, this lovely hacienda grants visitors a
glimpse of the influences of the two dominant powers
in Ecuador’s rich past. Ongoing excavation has
revealed that the Spanish hacienda was built on the
site of Inca ruins; the present owners have been
careful to incorporate much of the stonework into the
present buildings. With the accommodation in eight
individually decorated guestrooms, divided between
the main Inca House and the Lodge, this is a superb
base to explore the surrounding villages and markets.
Mansion Alcazar, Cuenca
San Agustín de Callo
This 19th century mansion has been beautifully
restored to its original grandeur, and is perhaps the
most sophisticated and charming place to stay in
Cuenca, just steps from the main square.The luxurious
rooms open out on two floors onto an interior
courtyard complete with chandelier and trickling
fountain. The attention to detail is evident in the
scattering of rose-petals on the antique beds and the
hot-water bottle that warms you as you snuggle into
your bed.
Santa Lucia, Cuenca
La Cienega, near Cotopaxi
A long time Audley favourite, the Santa Lucia is
perfectly situated in the heart of the colonial centre of
Cuenca, just steps from the main square. Itself one of
the city’s most significant buildings, the hotel dates
back to 1859 and has been beautifully restored, with
an abundance of polished wood and antique
furnishings. The 20 guest bedrooms are opulently
decorated with period furniture and expensive fabrics.
The magnificent, eucalyptus tree-lined drive is a fitting
approach to this grand 17th century hacienda
complete with its original private chapel and beautifully
manicured gardens. Situated on the slopes of the
imposing Cotopaxi volcano, the two metre thick walls
of the house are constructed of volcanic stone. The
house has an extensive documented history which
guests can learn about during their stay in one of the
36 simply furnished rooms.
Cathedral, Cuenca
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Kapawi Reserve
GUAYAQUIL
AMAZON
For those travelling from the Andean highlands to
the coast by road, the last leg of the journey is as
breathtaking as what has preceded it. You will head
west from Cuenca into the rugged wilderness of
El Cajas National Park. The craggy hills are
interspersed with more than 200 lagoons and lakes,
a full day’s drive through here drops into an
awe-inspiring descent into the steamy coastal
lowlands to Guayaquil, the largest city in the
country. The city does not have much to entice the
visitor, but large parts of it have recently been
renovated and the harbour area is now a pleasant
place for a stroll and a bite to eat. Flights to and
from the Galapagos Islands touch down in
Guayaquil, making the city a logistically sensible
overnight stop.
The Ecuadorian wedge of the Amazon rainforest
will enchant visitors with its cacophony of birdsong,
the playful whoops of monkeys, the still black
waters of the rivers, and the flutter of colourful
butterflies and tropical birds. Wildlife spotting
opportunities are excellent at the lodges here, and
your guides may be from local indigenous
communities, as they are becoming more involved
with eco-tourism and have unrivalled knowledge of
Amazonian flora and fauna. They can point out rare
species of kingfisher, signal where to look for river
dolphins on a canoe excursion, or explain the
medicinal purposes of some of the thousands of
local plants. You will enter the rainforest by road or
air, and then by boat to one of the jungle lodges
tucked away on the rivers, or take a cruise of
several days on a boat such as the Manatee
Explorer. Ecuador is proud of its remote and
unspoiled Amazon, which offers an authentic
Amazon experience to its visitors.
Located on the Pastaza River in the southern
Ecuadorian Amazon, the Kapawi Eco-Lodge is
reached by private plane and an hour and a half
journey by canoe. Its isolated location (the nearest
settlement of size is ten days’ walk away) means it is a
great place for wildlife spotting, especially for birdwatching, butterflies, fresh water dolphins and
monkeys. The lodge is run in conjunction with the local
Achuar community, and consists of 20 bungalows,
built from local materials and power is provided by
solar energy. Kapawi Ecolodge has won several
conservation awards.
Guayaquil
Squirrel monkey
Wild ginger
30
Kapawi Ecolodge & Reserve
Ecuador
n at u r a l ly
This itinerary would appeal to those with a general
interest in nature but also satisfy the most serious
naturalist. It explores of all Ecuador’s most diverse
natural landscapes, but also packs in a thorough
exploration of colonial Ecuador and its colourful
indigenous Indian communities. Starting in Quito’s
historic centre, this tour visits Otavalo’s Indian market,
explores Andean cloudforest and Amazon rainforest
before flying out to ‘Darwin’s Laboratory’, the
Galapagos Islands. Truly Ecuador in all its diversity.
Day 1:
Fly from the UK to Quito.
Day 2:
A tour of the colonial ‘old city’ and an
afternoon trip to the Equatorial
Monument.
Day 3:
Travel by road into the cloudforest, walk
the trails with your guide.
Day 4:
Continue on to Otavalo to explore the
market, afternoon return to Quito.
Day 5:
Fly to Coca in the Ecuadorian Amazon
and continue to your lodge.
Day 6-7:
Excursions in the rainforest.
Casa del Suizo
Napo Wildlife Centre
This lodge is located within the Yasuní National Park in
the northern Amazon region. Guests are welcomed to
the lodge with a refreshing passion-fruit drink after a
five hour naturalist tour downriver from Coca, during
which time you will already have seen a plethora of
rare bird and plant life. The lodge is exclusive with just
10 simple but well-equipped cabanas, each with
private balcony and beautiful views of the Amazon.
Your hosts here are the local Anangu community, who
built the lodge, and experienced naturalist guides who
will accompany you on excursions into the jungle and
welcome your questions about the area. Fishing trips
and excursions to the nearby parrot lick are often
highlights of an Amazon stay here. Napo’s profits go
back into the community and towards the preservation
of the Amazon.
Day 8:
Return to Quito.
Day 9:
Fly to the Galapagos Islands, board your
boat for a seven night cruise.
Day 10-15:
Cruising around the Galapagos Islands.
Day 16:
Return to the Ecuadorian mainland.
Day 17:
Fly to the UK.
Day 18:
Arrive in the UK.
Sacha Lodge
Sacha Lodge is located in a 5,000 acre private reserve
on the River Napo, about two and a half hours by
motorized canoe from Coca. The lodge overlooks the
scenic blackwater Pilchicocha Lake, replete with
marine and birdlife. Guests will stay in one of the
comfortable double cabins, each with private terrace
and designed to look as unobtrusive as possible amidst
the dense jungle vegetation. Sacha Lodge is renowned
for its warm welcome, skilled naturalist guides and
delicious cuisine. It also boasts an observation tower,
ideal for bird-watching, and a 300 metre long walkway
that threads through the jungle canopy.
Sacha Lodge
La Selva
Located about 80 kilometres downriver of Coca on
Garzacocha Lake, 17 rustic but comfortable thatched
cabanas provide the accommodation for guests at La
Selva Jungle Lodge. Each has its own hammock,
perfect for listening to the jungle around you and
maybe spotting some of the friendlier wildlife. During
your stay here you can choose to trek, hike, fish, swim,
paddle canoes in the lake, bird and butterfly watch, or
simply relax.
Blue-footed booby, Galapagos Islands
tailor-made travel
Casa del Suizo
A more comfortable Amazon option, and the most
suitable for families, the Casa del Suizo is perched by
the River Napo and overlooks the vast expanses of the
rainforest. The 75 rooms have 24-hour electricity and
the lodge boasts a large swimming pool. Excursions
and activities available include hiking and paddling
through the rainforest, raft-building and meeting the
local Amazon communities.
Kapawi Reserve
31
Great frigate bird
The Galapagos
Islands
The Galapagos Islands’ reputation as
one of the world’s great travel
experiences is more than justified. The
diverse range of animals that live on
these remote islands have no fear of
man, and a cruise around their home is
a real delight. Walking along sandy
beaches around the lazy sea lions as
their inquisitive pups try to steal your
shoelaces, watching the comical bluefooted boobies perform their mating
dance, carefully stepping around a
tangled pile of sun-bathing marine
iguanas, admiring the male great frigate
bird’s inflated red chest, all will be part
of an unforgettable Galapagos
experience.
Audley’s Galapagos Islands brochure
32
A medium-sized cruise boat option
A small-sized cruise boat option
AUDLEY IN
THE GALAPAGOS ISLANDS
In our experience, the Galapagos Islands are one of
those destinations that surpass all expectations.
However, in order to make the absolute most of
your trip we believe you need experts to advise on
the right type of trip to take based on your
requirements. Our specialists have all visited the
Galapagos Islands to appraise the boats and their
staff, and explore all the islands: vital to offer
unbiased advice. We have put our expertise into a
stand-alone brochure dedicated solely to travel in
the Galapagos Islands, which answers ‘frequentlyasked questions’ and details the many different
types of boat available for cruises. If you do not
already have one please call us on 01869 276 210
so we can send one to you.
WHEN TO GO
The Galapagos Islands can be visited all year round,
although the climate is divided roughly into two
seasons – a hot and wet season from January to
June that sees blue skies interspersed with showers,
and a cooler, drier season from July to December
that is cloudier. During July and August the wind
can be stronger which may pick up the waves. If
you can visit the islands at any time, our favourite
period is from February to May. Please note that
visitor numbers are strictly limited and demand
exceeds supply. Early booking, especially for peak
times such as Easter and Christmas is highly
recommended in order to secure a cabin on your
preferred boat.
Land iguana
Sea lions
THE GALAPAGOS ISLANDS |33
Chile
Chilean legend has it that when God
had finished creating earth, he walked
back across the heavens and a little of
everything that was left; mountains,
deserts, lakes, glaciers, volcanoes and
valleys, trickled out through a hole in
his pocket, and thus Chile was born.
So, this implausibly long and thin
ribbon of land that unfurls down the
Pacific coast of South America
compresses an extraordinarily diverse
34
range of terrain between its Andean
spine on one side and the ocean to the
other. Sweeping from the world’s
highest and driest desert down through
rolling vineyards, past snow-dusted
volcanoes, narrow fjords and turquoise
lakes to sharp granite peaks towering
above blue icebergs, this slender slice of
land is also bursting with culture and
charm. Chileans are proud and friendly,
fiercely protecting their traditions, keen
to boast about their two Nobel prize
winning compatriots; Pablo Neruda
and Gabriela Mistral, and more than
happy to enjoy a glass of the fiery
national cocktail, pisco, with visitors.
Add to all this the mysterious statues of
Easter Island marooned five hours’
flight away out in the Pacific Ocean,
and you have every imaginable
ingredient for a wealth of sights and
experiences.
AUDLEY IN CHILE
CLIMATE
The sheer size and diversity of Chile means it is
something of a feat to cover all elements (possibly
including Easter Island too) in one trip. Our
specialist knowledge ensures that whatever your
preference for sights and activities, we will strike
the right balance between you seeing as much as
possible without spending too much time on the
road or in the air. We will advise you on the ideal
sequence in which to organise your trip, according
to internal flight schedules, climate, sailing days of
cruises, or entry days of hotels, if applicable. As well
as knowing the classic highlights in considerable
depth, we pride ourselves on our knowledge of
lesser-known regions and properties, and are
pleased to discuss specialist interests such as golf,
wine, astronomy or skiing. Due to the length of
their shared border, Chile lends itself perfectly to
being combined with Argentina, and we can tell
you about the many options for crossing from one
to the other from the desert in the north, Santiago,
the Lake District, or Patagonia, dependent upon
your preferences and plans.
As befits a country that spans a range of latitudes,
Chile has many different climatic regions. The
temperate north and sub-tropical Easter Island can
be visited year round, while Santiago and the
central regions of Chile have seasons that are the
reverse of our own. The Lake District is delightful in
Chile’s spring and autumn, while the endless
sunshine of the high summer months of December
and January attract many crowds. As is the case in
Argentina, Chile’s Patagonia has a very changeable
climate, and being this far south you must be
prepared for anything even during the optimum
months (October to March), with the inclement
winter weather from June to August rendering the
area effectively closed.
ACCOMMODATION
Hotels in Chile are as interestingly varied
as the country’s distinct regions, and we
always try to seek out options in keeping
with the area and typical of it. South
America’s first Ritz-Carlton hotel has
opened in Santiago, and Chile is home to
the unique and outstanding Explora
hotels, one of which is in the Atacama
Desert, the other in Torres del Paine
National Park. There are also some
beautiful and unique hotels dotted
throughout the country, such as within the winery
regions and in the Lake District, as well as a
selection of simply styled adobe properties in the
Atacama Desert, and friendly hosterias in Torres del
Paine. Demand far outstrips supply at these few
properties in Torres del Paine, so in order to secure
accommodation we recommend booking at least
eight months in advance.
Central Valley vineyard
Atacama Desert
CHILE
35
SANTIAGO
Snow-covered Andean peaks provide Santiago’s
backdrop, but today they compete for dominance
on the skyline with sparkling skyscrapers. The
capital of Chile is a modern metropolis, but a
charming one with many landscaped parks and
peaceful hilltop sanctuaries offering calm amid the
chaos. The historic, civic heart of the downtown
area is home to the museums, churches,
government buildings, central plaza and cathedral,
and the modern and fast-paced commercial centre
of Providencia hosts the majority of the shops and
restaurants. On a tour of the city you will explore
both areas, as well as the arty Bellavista district,
from where the cable car ascends to the summit of
San Cristobal Hill, affording fantastic views over the
city to the Andes.
Ritz-Carlton,
Santiago
Proud to be the first Ritz-Carlton to be opened in
South America, this elegant hotel has its own distinct
Chilean character. The floor tiles in the lobby are
made of lapis lazuli, a bright blue gemstone quarried
in the Chilean Andes, and the food and wine in the
restaurant is sourced from domestic suppliers. The
rooms are luxurious and well-appointed, and on a
clear day, the majestic Andes are visible from the
hotel, including from the excellent rooftop health club
and spa.
THE CENTRAL VALLEY
AND COAST
When you have explored the city, make for the
coast for a day, travelling through orchards and
olive plantations to the seaside towns of Valparaíso
and Viña del Mar. Tumbling precariously down
dozens of hills to the port, Valparaíso is a maze of
colourful buildings, boulevards and viewpoints, best
explored using its ancient funicular railways and
‘elevators’. Here you can visit one of the homes of
Chilean Nobel prize-winning poet Pablo Neruda,
who was inspired by the town’s melting-pot charm
and eccentricity. Viña del Mar, however, is a genteel
and fashionable resort that has been the weekend
retreat of rich Santiago folk for generations. About
two hours further north is the attractive and chic
resort town of Zapallar, set on a curved sandy bay
and backed by lush forests this is a perfect place for
a stop of a couple of nights. Our favourite hotel
here is the Isla Seca, a friendly property with two
swimming pools and good views of the ocean.
Zapallar
36
Santiago
Hacienda Los Lingues,
Central Valley
South of Santiago, in the rolling hills of Chile’s Central
Valley, lies the colonial estate of the Hacienda Los
Lingues. The farmhouse brims with 300 year old
antique furniture, and makes a wonderful spot,
whether staying here or simply visiting, to enjoy horseriding, exploring the grounds and enjoying the excellent
food and wine.
SKIING
During our summer months - June to September the ski resorts nestling in the Andes within easy
reach from Santiago offer the largest number of
runs in the southern hemisphere, Valle Nevado and
Portillo being the most renowned. The spectacular
views and superb standard of snow make Chile an
increasingly popular destination for ski aficionados
seeking out-of-season action, and we can organise
time on the slopes in combination with a
contrasting trip to the Atacama desert.
Valparaíso
Plaza de la Constitución, Santiago
Classic
Chile
This tour offers a fine overview of the highlights of
Chile, and will reveal the breathtaking diversity of
Chile’s natural landscapes. Starting in the vibrant
capital of Santiago fly north to the scorched landscape
of the Atacama Desert and take walking, horse-riding
or jeep excursions around the dunes, lagoons and
volcanoes. From here travel south to the picturesque
Lake District for a relaxing few days before continuing
on to the iconic Torres del Paine National Park for
further exploration.
Santa Cruz Plaza, Santa Cruz
SANTA CRUZ
& WINERIES
LA SERENA &
THE ELQUI VALLEY
Another highly recommended antidote to the
bustle of Santiago’s streets is to journey a little way
south to taste some fine Chilean wines at nearby
Concha y Toro, just outside the city. If you have a
little more time, or a particular interest in viticulture,
then head further south into the lush Colchagua
Valley. Here you will find yourself in the heart of
one of Chile’s principal wine-growing regions,
surrounded by neat vines stretching towards the
Andes. We thoroughly recommend a night or two
in sleepy Santa Cruz from where you can explore
this fertile valley, taste the wines and lunch on steak
at one of the traditional bodegas.
La Serena is a cheerful place, a mix of chic seafront
and artistic old town, surrounded by a mystical and
remote area of stunning scenery that climbs east
into the Andes. Famed for having the clearest skies
in the southern hemisphere, this blissfully tranquil
area houses a large number of observatories such
as Tololo and Mamalluca, and attracts spiritualists as
well as astronomers due to its reputedly unusual
magnetic quality. Tiny and impossibly picturesque
villages - Montegrande, Vicuña, Pisco Elqui - dot
the valley’s cultivated slopes and it is in these that
Nobel prize winner Gabriela Mistral lived and
taught. This is also the heart of pisco grape
growing country and a visit just wouldn’t be
complete without a distillery visit and tasting.
Santa Cruz Plaza, Santa Cruz
Situated right on the main square in Santa Cruz town,
the charming Santa Cruz Plaza prides itself on being
the best hotel in the area, a title it justly deserves. The
rooms are richly decorated, there is an excellent patio
restaurant and a small outdoor pool. The wine-tasting
room offers to tempt your palate with more than 200
local varieties. Next door is a local museum where you
can learn about Chilean history with an outdoor
section devoted to machinery historically used in the
wine-producing industry.
Day 1:
Fly from the UK.
Day 2:
Morning arrival in Santiago, afternoon at
leisure.
Day 3:
Explore the city on a guided tour in the
morning, visit a local winery such as
Concha y Toro in the afternoon.
Day 4:
Take a full day trip to the coastal towns
of Valparaíso and Viña del Mar.
Day 5:
Fly to Calama, transfer to San Pedro de
Atacama, watch the sunset in the Valley
of the Moon.
Day 6-7:
Excursions in the Atacama, such as
visiting the El Tatio geysers or Toconao
and the Salar de Atacama (these are
examples of excursions available).
Day 8:
Fly to Puerto Montt (via Santiago), have
an afternoon sightseeing in Puerto Varas.
Day 9:
Sail to Chiloé Island for a day of
exploring.
Day 10:
A full day tour around Lake Llanquihue.
Day 11:
Fly to Punta Arenas, and then drive
through windswept Patagonian steppe to
Puerto Natales.
Day 12:
Drive into Torres del Paine National Park.
Day 13:
Excursions in the park, such as hiking,
horse-riding or jeep trips.
Day 14:
Further excursions in this magnificent
national park.
Day 15:
Return to Punta Arenas, an afternoon
sightseeing.
Day 16:
Fly to the UK via Santiago.
Day 17:
Arrive in the UK.
FALKLAND ISLANDS
EXTENSION
The fascinating Falkland Islands are an hour’s flight
from Punta Arenas in southern Chile, and at present
there is one flight a week to and from Stanley. They
make a wonderful extension to any trip to Chile, as
they are teeming with wildlife such as penguins, sea
lions, elephant seals and a wide variety of marine
birds.
tailor-made travel
Concha y Toro vineyard
CHILE
37
Lauca National Park
THE FAR NORTH
ATACAMA DESERT
The far north of Chile shares not only a border with
Peru and Bolivia but also a common history derived
from the pre-Conquest cultures of the region. The
attraction for visitors today in this startling barren
landscape is the rich archaeological heritage, there
are immense geoglyphs, ancient cave art and
excellent museums in and around the coastal towns
of Arica and Iquique. To the east, this arid
landscape of shades of brown and gold gives way
to the foothills of the Andes and rises up to
become part of the vast altiplano, where
magnificent panoramas of snow-topped volcanoes,
herds of vicuña grazing amongst flowers and
brightly coloured lakes await. Lauca National Park is
visually stunning, and is on the route for travellers
who are taking the road route from La Paz in
Bolivia to Chile, via the equally sublime Sajama
National Park.
Eerie, austere, remote yet beautiful, no more so
than at sunrise and sunset when the surfaces and
the skies turn all manner of improbable hues of
orange, crimson and gold, Chile’s Atacama Desert is
so dry that there are many parts of it in which no
rainfall has ever been recorded.
After flying into the city of Calama, a mining town
with Chuquicamata, the largest open cast mine in
the world in the hills behind it, travel by road
through rolling swathes of parched lunar landscape
to the welcoming oasis town of San Pedro de
Atacama, the base for explorations into the desert.
From here you will join small guided groups to
marvel at the Atacama’s natural spectacles, and to
explore archeological sites; ancient mummies,
geoglyphs, and crumbling ghost towns. Rise before
dawn to drink your morning coffee at the world’s
highest geothermal field, and watch the steam
from your cup rise along with the spurting
fumaroles of the Tatio geysers. Pick your way across
the crunchy salt flats to spot the pink flamingos;
photograph the vivid colours of the Miscanti and
Meñique Lagoons, and climb the sweeping sand
dunes of the Valley of the Moon to watch the sun
set, turning them scarlet as it goes.
The Atacama Desert is an active person’s paradise,
offering unique terrain through which to hike, cycle
or horse ride, but it is also entirely accessible to
those wishing to investigate it by vehicle, with the
excellent hotel options offering total relaxation after
an awe-inspiring day’s exploration.
Valley of the Moon, Atacama Desert
38
Lakes and
vine yards
Compare the cultural capitals of Santiago and Buenos
Aires, cross the Andes between the two countries by
road and boat, and sample Chilean and Argentinian
wines in their respective vineyards. This trip is a
leisurely and indulgent one, ideal for those who enjoy
the good life: picture-perfect scenery and fine cuisine
and wine.
Tatio Geysers
Terrantai, San Pedro
Accommodation in
San Pedro de Atacama
Our favourite lodges in the oasis town of San Pedro de
Atacama include the Terrantai, set right in the centre
of town with pebble-clad walls and an Inca-style stargazing pool; the Altiplanico, a complex of en-suite
rooms within adobe-style huts typical of the area with
great views and a pool to cool off in; the Kimal, a
similar style of hotel sympathetic to the local adobe
architecture; and the Aldea, a small, new hotel on the
outskirts of town with an inviting pool. San Pedro has a
host of excellent local restaurants just a short stroll
away.
Explora en Atacama, San Pedro
Explora en Atacama,
San Pedro de Atacama
The Explora en Atacama is a visually impressive
property. The hotel offers an all-inclusive package that
provides a choice of explorations to be chosen in
conjunction with their guides, who will advise you on
what is most suitable depending on your preferences
and level of fitness. When you are not out exploring,
the hotel offers fine accommodation in comfortable
rooms with jacuzzis and panoramic windows, a series
of interlinking pools, and breakfast and lunch are
served on an outdoor terrace with a spectacular view
over the conical Licancabur Volcano.
Day 1:
Fly from the UK.
Day 2:
Early arrival in Santiago, afternoon at
leisure.
Day 3:
Morning tour of the city and afternoon
drive south into the lush Colchagua
Valley.
Day 4:
A full day’s guided exploration of local
wineries.
Day 5:
Return to Santiago, fly to Puerto Montt,
and transfer to Puerto Varas.
Day 6:
A full day’s trip to rural Chiloé Island.
Day 7:
Begin the two day Lake Crossing from
Chile to Argentina, staying overnight at
the midway point of Peulla.
Day 8:
Continue journey by vehicle and boat to
Bariloche, Argentina.
Day 9:
Take a chairlift ride to enjoy the
panoramic vista, afternoon at leisure.
Day 10:
Fly from Bariloche to Buenos Aires,
evening dinner and tango show.
Day 11:
A full day tour of the sights of the city
including the Casa Rosada and La Boca.
Day 12:
Fly from Buenos Aires to Mendoza, an
afternoon city tour.
Day 13:
Transfer out of Mendoza, visiting wineries
en route for the posada you will stay in.
Day 14:
At leisure to explore more local wineries
or to relax at your rural posada.
Day 15:
Make the spectacular journey by road
across the Alta Montana back to Santiago,
Chile.
Day 16:
Evening flight to the UK.
Day 17:
Arrival in the UK.
EASTER ISLAND
EXTENSION
The mysterious stone statues of Easter Island lie a five
hour flight from Santiago. We can organise three or
four night trips (depending on the flight schedules)
here, usually at the start or end of your trip. Once you
are on the island we can arrange excursions with
specialist guides, or car hire if you wish to explore
under your own steam.
tailor-made travel
Atacama Desert
CHILE
39
CHILOÉ ISLAND
Half an hour’s ferry ride from Puerto Montt lie a
series of islands famous for their folklore, legend
and handicraft traditions. Chiloé, covered by
undulating hills and evergreen forest, boasts diverse
and abundant birdlife, over 150 wooden churches,
and Castro’s much photographed “palafitos”;
picturesque but precarious timber houses perching
over the water on stilts. It is possible to stay
overnight on this remote archipelago, but it is
charmingly old-fashioned and untouched by
sophistication of any kind, so we tend to
recommend that you take a day trip to explore it,
perhaps visiting a penguin colony and stopping for
lunch to try some of Chiloé’s renowned oysters,
returning to your hotel in Puerto Varas in the
evening. One thing you can be fairly sure of where
Chiloé is concerned; it will very likely be raining, so
bring your waterproofs!
Chiloé Island
NORTHERN LAKE DISTRICT
THE LAKE DISTRICT
If you study a map of Chile’s midriff, you can clearly
see why the Lake District is so called. The network
of blue shapes begin in the north at Temuco and
stretch over 300 kilometres south to Puerto Montt,
which is where the gentle lakes end and the
landscape changes into the harsher face of
northern Patagonia. The Lake District is an
impossibly pretty region of the bluest waters, whitetipped volcanoes, waterfalls and ancient forests,
perfect for gentle hiking, bike riding, fishing,
relaxing in thermal pools, languorous cruises around
fjords and glaciers and the enjoyment of fresh air
and good food and wine.
Pucón is the popular and stylish epicentre of all
activity in the northern lakes area. If you enjoy
fishing, rafting, rambling, horse riding or would like
to climb the slopes of the Villarica volcano, then
this is the place for you. We can arrange for our
local guides to take you and a picnic out for the
day by road, foot or boat, but if you prefer simply
to relax and take in the views, there is no better
place in which to do it.
Lake District
SOUTHERN LAKE DISTRICT
This region’s airport, in the town of Puerto Montt,
lies almost exactly half way between Santiago and
Punta Arenas and this is the ideal point at which to
alight for several days in the southern Lake District,
whether you are then continuing down to
Patagonia or journeying east into Argentina. You
will stay in the small town of Puerto Varas, with its
enviable location on the shores of Lake Llanquihue.
The most popular hotels here are right on the
water’s edge, but Puerto Varas is so compact that
you are never far from a delightful view nor indeed
a tasty fish restaurant or attractive artesanias shop.
Famous for the roses which bloom all over the
town from December to March, Puerto Varas is
watched over by the conical peaks of volcanoes
Osorno and Calbuco and is a lovely place to
unwind during your travels through Chile. Day trips
which should not be missed from here include
Chiloé Island, the tumbling azure waters of
Petrohue Falls, the national parks of Vicente Perez
Rosales and Alerce Andino, and the interesting
settlements of Puerto Octay (its Germanic roots
reflected in its Bavarian-style architecture) and the
little lakeside resort of Frutillar. Those crossing into
Argentina via the famous and picturesque ‘Lake
Crossing’ will do so by bus and boat through the
Andes in one or two days (with a stop overnight in
Puella) from Puerto Varas.
Villarica volcano, the Lake District
40
Southern
E xplorer
Begin your stay in Chile’s capital, end it in Argentina’s,
and experience the deep south of the continent in
between. The Mare Australis is an excellent expedition
vessel which will take you from Punta Arenas in Chile
to Ushuaia in Argentina, leaving you to explore
highlights on the ground in each country before and
after the cruise.
Antumalal, near Pucon
Antumalal, near Pucon
Situated two kilometres outside Pucon, set in 13 acres
of landscaped garden, with its own private beach and
dock, lies the Antumalal hotel. The hotel’s low-slung
60’s design was very advanced for its time and
provided the inspiration for the renowned Explora
hotels in Atacama and Patagonia. The hotel’s modern
style is combined with cosy comfort and personalised
service - the Pollak family have managed it since the
beginning - and luxurious facilities include a heated
outdoor swimming pool and tennis court, with
excursions on foot, by boat or on horseback organised
for you by the hotel’s exclusive guides. Each of the
sixteen rooms have a view of either Lake Villarrica or
the gardens from their floor to ceiling windows, as do
the restaurant, lounge and terrace.
Skorpios cruises
The fleet of three motorvessels, Skorpios I, II and III
follow three different routes through the channels and
fjords of Chilean Patagonia on cruises lasting about one
week. The boats have a capacity for up to 130
passengers, in well-furnished, modern en-suite cabins
on a number of decks. Daily excursions by motorboat
take you to explore the mainland, unwind with a dip in
a thermal pool, or gaze in awe at a glacier. One of the
highlights of a Skorpios cruise is the delicious fresh
seafood prepared to traditional and modern local
recipes and accompanied by a fine Chilean wine.
Please contact us for further details and departure
dates.
NORTHERN PATAGONIA
Chile’s Southern Highway, begun in 1976 under the
determined project management of General
Pinochet, snakes south from Puerto Montt through
the country’s remote Aisén region down to
southern Patagonia. The landscape through which
you pass is dramatic, pristine, and enticingly
studded with waterfalls, rivers, forests and lakes.
The road’s romantic ending is a forced one; at the
tiny hamlet of Villa O’Higgins it can go no further,
obliged to trail off as the vast Southern Icefield
takes over. For those keen on road trips, we can
organise a hire car and maps, or we can arrange a
guide if you are heading for a specific attraction,
maybe the towns of Cochrane or Coyhaique, the
hanging glaciers of Queulat, or a cruise through the
maze of fjords to the mighty glacier upon Lake San
Rafael. If you are short on time, you can fly in to
the town of Balmaceda, which allows easy access
to the attractions of the region. In this area we
recommend the rustic lodges of Mallín Colorado
Day 1:
Fly from the UK to Santiago.
Day 2:
A morning city sightseeing tour.
Day 3:
Fly to Puerto Montt; transfer to Puerto
Varas, explore the town in the afternoon.
Day 4:
A full day tour around the lakes and
national parks.
Day 5:
A full day sailing on Todos Los Santos
Lake.
Day 6:
Fly to Punta Arenas; drive to Puerto
Natales.
Day 7:
Drive into the magnificent Torres del
Paine National Park.
Day 8-9:
Excursions in the park.
Day 10:
Transfer to Punta Arenas to board the
M/V Mare Australis (Saturday only).
Day 11-14:
Sail through the Straits of Magellan, see
sea lions and penguin colonies, and round
Cape Horn (weather permitting).
Day 15:
Disembark in the most southerly city of
Ushuaia, Argentina; fly to Buenos Aires.
Day 16:
Morning city sightseeing tour including
the colourful La Boca district; dinner at a
Tango show.
Day 17:
Day trip across the La Plata river to
Colonia in Uruguay.
Day 18:
Fly to the UK.
Day 19:
Arrive in the UK.
Puyuhuapi Lodge & Spa
This hidden jewel is so remote that the journey to
reach it by luxury catamaran is an experience in itself,
providing stunning views of the dramatic fjord scenery
en route. Relaxation is everything at Puyuhuapi, be it
in the hot natural pools, in front of the roaring log fire,
or during a thalasotherapy treatment in the spa, and
thanks to the silence and total absence of contact
with the outside world, you cannot help but come
away feeling rejuvenated and pampered. The best of
the thirty three rooms have uninterrupted views of the
bay and despite the romantic and isolated location,
heating and hot water are prolific and entirely natural,
powered by the same volcanic springs which gush into
the indoor and outdoor thermal pools. Whether you
have spent the day following trails through the pristine
forest, fly-fishing, or visiting the Queulat Hanging
Glacier, your appetite will be well catered for in the
waterfront restaurant and your sleep will be
interrupted only by birdsong.
Aisén region
tailor-made travel
Puyuhuapi Lodge & Spa
CHILE
41
Torres Del Paine
TORRES DEL PAINE
NATIONAL PARK
Accommodation
in Torres del Paine
The most famous national park in Chile and all
Patagonia, Torres del Paine is remote, isolated,
rugged and windswept, yet while all this makes it
lengthy to reach and demanding to explore, it is at
the same time the very essence of its appeal and
there is no doubting that it is worth the effort.
Unless crossing into the park by road from
Argentina, you will arrive by air into Punta Arenas;
Chile’s southernmost city, a bustling place of multicoloured houses and pioneer spirit. Depending on
flight schedules, you will stay a night here either
before or after your time in the park itself. To get
into the park you will travel through the
Patagonian steppe for 300 kilometres to Puerto
Natales, and then on another 100 kilometres to
the park itself. Your first sighting of the
eponymous towers and the uniquely smooth and
twisted peaks and horns of the Paine Massif is
unforgettable. We will have booked you
accommodation within the park itself and from
your cosy hosteria or the luxurious Explora hotel,
you can choose from a wide variety of excursions
on foot, by car or by boat, all of which we can prebook for you if you wish. We particularly
recommend an afternoon’s sailing on Lago Grey to
approach the glacier of the same name, navigating
through vivid blue icebergs on the way. As you
drive through the park, you will also marvel at
emerald and turquoise lakes, waterfalls and grazing
guanacos, while those who prefer to explore on
foot can take a day’s hike to the base of the
towers, or a longer circuit involving camping and
up to six days’ walking. While the weather is
always unpredictable this far south, if visiting
between October and March, you can hope to
enjoy clear skies and even sunshine.
This wild region is defined by its remoteness and
therefore has only a handful of places to stay
(“hosterias”), the best of which are appropriately rustic
but nonetheless cosy and comfortable. We have visited
or stayed in most, and our recommendations include
Hosteria Las Torres; Hosteria Lago Grey, with its
spectacular views over the lake and glacier of the
same name; small and welcoming Cabañas del Paine;
and Hosteria Pehoe, which sits on an islet on the lake
and can only be reached by a walkway.
42
Mare Australis
Cruceros Australis
Hosteria Las Torres
Explora en Patagonia
Sister to the Atacama’s hotel, the Patagonian Explora
may be wildly different in terms of setting, but its
design, facilities and service are equally outstanding.
All public areas and the beautiful Scandinavian-style
bedrooms have views of the lake, mountain range or
the Salto Chico waterfall. Some rooms have jacuzzis,
but there are also open air pools, saunas and hot tubs.
As in the Atacama, all your transportation, meals and
excursions are included, and the expert guides will
share with you their knowledge and love of Chile’s
most famous National Park, bringing you back to your
luxurious and stylish base at the end of the day.
The Mare Australis (and her sister ship Via Australis
who commences sailing in late 2005) was built
specifically for cruising the waters at the very tip of the
South American continent. The cruise departs down
the Beagle Channel from Punta Arenas for a four night
cruise to Ushuaia in Argentina, or you can stay on
board for a seven night cruise back to Punta Arenas.
During what will be an exceptional voyage there are
daily excursions by zodiac to visit virtually untouched
areas of Tierra del Fuego, including massive glaciers
and animal colonies, and also to Cape Horn (weather
permitting). In the evenings there are lectures on the
flora and fauna of the area and social events. This
cruise is a wonderful experience, and allows you to see
some amazing sights impossible to visit any other way,
accompanied by some excellent guides. The boat
operates from late October to early April, with some
occasional sailings in the winter months.
Chile
Revisited
This itinerary may well appeal to the returning visitor.
It takes in some of Chile’s hidden delights and lesser
known areas, and includes plenty of independent time
for those who have already seen the principal
highlights and are comfortable with the country.
Gaze at the stars in the southern hemisphere’s
clearest skies, drive the Southern Highway, and
navigate the fjords of northern Patagonia, relaxing at
the end in a small and chic resort.
Day 1:
Day 2:
Early arrival and afternoon at leisure to
rediscover the capital.
Day 3:
Fly to La Serena, afternoon at leisure at
the coast.
Day 4:
Full day’s guided exploration of the
mystical Elqui Valley and evening’s
stargazing in one of the observatories.
ROBINSON CRUSOE ISLAND
Day 5:
Fly from La Serena via Santiago to
Temuco, transfer to Pucon.
This remote and hilly island some 350 kilometres off
the coast of Chile was home to Alexander Selkirk
after he was put ashore there 300 years ago. He
subsequently became the inspiration for Daniel
Defoe’s classic story, and the island that was
originally named Juan Fernández has since been
renamed in his honour. Part of an archipelago of
three islands, the main attractions here are trekking,
snorkelling, lobster fishing and diving. Travelling to
the island can be something of an adventure in
itself due to unpredictable airline schedules.
Day 6:
Day’s exploration of the lakes and
volcanoes of the northern Lake District.
Easter Island
EASTER ISLAND
A tiny speck of volcanic rock in the middle of the
Pacific a five hour flight from the Chilean mainland,
Easter Island, or Rapa Nui as it is known by the
locals, has for centuries fascinated travellers and
scholars alike. This is due to the squat bodies and
brooding faces of hundreds of stone statues or
‘moai’ that gaze from all corners of the island. A
three or four night trip to this intriguing destination
means coming face to face with these moai,
admiring their sculpture and size and pondering the
mysteries of why they were erected, how they got
to be standing on their platforms on this island,
and who put them there.
Torres del Paine
Day 7:
At leisure.
Day 8:
Fly from Temuco to Puerto Montt, pick
up your hire car, and begin your drive
south on the Carretera Austral.
Day 9:
Driving through the Aisén region.
Day 10:
Leave your hire car at Balmaceda and join
the luxury catamaran cruise to the
Puyuhuapi Lodge & Spa.
Day 11:
At leisure at the spa.
Day 12:
Cruise back through the fjords to Puerto
Chacabuco, visiting the Laguna San Rafael
on the way.
Day 13:
Fly from Balmaceda to Santiago and drive
north to Zapallar.
Day 14:
At leisure at the coast.
Day 15:
Return transfer to Santiago for your final
night’s stay.
Day 16:
Fly to the UK.
Day 17:
Arrive in the UK.
Robinson Crusoe Island
Laguna San Rafael
tailor-made travel
Torres del Paine
CHILE
43
Argentina
Vibrant, diverse and intoxicating,
Argentina succeeds in being
quintessentially Latin, surprisingly
cosmopolitan and completely
individual. Contained within its
boundaries are a heady array of
landscapes and sights, from windswept
Patagonia to the tumbling waters of
Iguazú Falls; through the snow-capped
volcanoes and emerald waters of the
44
Lake District to lush wineries, cactusspiked gorges and penguin-filled shores.
But Argentina is far more than its
natural beauty, it is a place of its
people: the gauchos working with speed
and skill as they herd their cattle in the
Pampas; a couple entwined in a
heartfelt tango and the Welsh-speaking
communities of northern Patagonia.
It is the home of world-famous icons
including Che, the heartthrob
revolutionary, Evita the political diva,
and Maradona the controversial
footballing hero. Fiercely proud,
patriotic and partisan, the people of
Argentina are also warm, open and
welcoming, a key part of the appeal of
their vast, beautiful and unique country.
ACCOMMODATION
Particular to Argentina is the estancia, or
working ranch, from which you can
explore the surrounding
countryside on foot or
horseback, watch the gauchos
at work and get to know your
hosts over fine meals. There are
many of these estancias dotted
throughout the country, offering a
wonderfully authentic yet
comfortable insight into traditional
rural life, and we have searched
out those with the best location
and the friendliest hosts. In our
opinion no visit is complete
without a stay at one of these
properties. Argentina also boasts many
sophisticated five star properties, several
with stunning locations, and a selection
of comfortable and homely hotels that
are good value for the visitor. Pressure
on the limited accommodation in the
most popular regions such as Iguazú
and southern Patagonia means that
booking many months in advance is
often required in order to secure rooms.
Iguazú Falls
CLIMATE
Most of Argentina has seasons that are the
opposite of the northern hemisphere’s, but as you
would expect in a country of this size, distinct
regions have climates all of their own. Buenos Aires
is hot in summer (November to April) and mild in
winter. The Lake District is pretty in spring (October)
and autumn (March) and fresher in these months
than during the height of summer. Part of
Patagonia’s charm is its unpredictability, and you
should be prepared for four seasons in one day. In
the far south of Patagonia however, weather
conditions can be severe during winter months, so
we would discourage you from visiting in June, July
or August. The arid northwestern region can be
very hot during the summer (December to
February), while Mendoza province is temperate
year-round. The time of year to travel will depend
largely on the areas you wish to visit.
Gauchos
AUDLEY IN ARGENTINA
Argentina is a huge and varied country that has
more than enough attractions to absorb a visitor in
its own right. It is also easily combined with visits to
Chile via one of the many spectacular Andean
routes between the two countries, or to Brazil via
Iguazú Falls. Due to its vastness, comprehensive
itineraries around Argentina will involve several
internal flights, but our specialists will ensure that
the idiosyncrasies of the domestic airline schedules
are taken into account, and connections are kept to
a minimum. Our specialists have a detailed and upto-date knowledge of the country’s many regions
and the best way to combine them, dependent
upon the different seasons and logistical factors you
will encounter as you travel from one part to
another. As well as the obvious highlights, we have
visited and like to suggest areas and places to stay
which are perhaps less well-known and therefore
more close a reflection of local life. Whatever your
motive in visiting this wonderful country, whether
you wish to learn the tango, sample the wine,
marvel at the glaciers, waterfalls or mountains,
photograph the wildlife, ride with the gauchos, or a
combination of all these things, we can tailor a trip
to ensure that you leave the country loving it as
much as we do.
La Boca, Buenos Aires
ARGENTINA
45
La Boca
BUENOS AIRES
TANGO
The capital of Argentina is one of the world’s great
urban experiences: a place of stylish people and
buildings, wide boulevards and leafy parks,
poignant history, gastronomic delights, tango in the
streets and extravagant arts and architecture. The
city is divided into barrios (neighbourhoods), each
different yet all full of character. The colourful
buildings of the working-class La Boca contrast with
chic and showy Recoleta, best known for its lavish
cemetery. Bohemian San Telmo turns into a bustling
market on Sundays, the trendy boulevards of
Palermo are perfect for people-watching, while the
gentrified dockland area of Puerto Madero which is
full of restaurants and bars, provides a friendly
counterpoint to the handsome Plaza de Mayo,
dominated by the pink Presidential building. The joy
of being in Buenos Aires is to explore these barrios
on foot, pausing frequently to sit in a pavement
café or traditional smoky bar, to sip espressos or a
beer and watch the city flourish around you. You
can also explore the leafy suburbs by taking a train
or boat ride up the Tigre Delta, or head into the
great grass and cattle lands of the pampas which
stretch, drum-flat, around this great city.
Argentina’s sultry national dance and music
resonates throughout the country’s capital, with
demonstrations taking place on street corners, in
public squares and bars, and in the tango halls and
theatres themselves. A flash of skirt, the
authoritative stamp of the heel, the languid
intensity and passion of the dance partners’
movements - it is unmistakeably Argentinian. You
can stay at a tango-themed hotel, visit an
exuberant ‘dinner and tango’ show where you will
learn of Carlos Gardel, Argentina’s most loved
tango legend. We can also arrange for you to have
private lessons and then, if you are feeling suitably
accomplished and ready to join the locals, we will
point you in the direction of milongas - live,
informal dance venues where young and old meet
to whirl the night away. True aficionados will want
to coincide their visit to Buenos Aires with the
annual Tango Festival in early March.
Mural at Mansion Dandi Royal
46
Tango in San Telmo
Buenos Aires
Accommodation
in Buenos Aires
As well as a range of excellent international hotels
such as the Sofitel and Marriott, Buenos Aires has a
number of wonderfully stylish and unusual properties
that are dotted throughout city. We particularly like
the Mansion Dandi Royal (see right) and the intimate
and exclusive Malabia House. Other favourites include
the quirky BoBo, which is a boutique hotel with just
seven individually designed rooms located in trendy
Palermo Viejo, and Art Hotel, in the elegant area of
Recoleta. Opening at the time of the going to press is
the luxurious Philippe Starck-designed Faena
Hotel+Universe. In a modern but majestic warehouse
building in the port area of Puerto Madero, each guest
will have their own ‘Experience Manager’ who acts as
a personal guide from arrival to departure, so that
there are no receptionists, butlers or concierge staff.
Mansion Dandi Royal,
Buenos Aires
Located in the heart of San Telmo, the Mansion Dandi
Royal is an exceptional hotel. The house itself is over a
century old, with beautiful period architecture and
features, but only opened as a small hotel in
December 2003, and its unique character and
charmingly personalised service make it a most
unusual and memorable place to stay in Buenos Aires.
The hotel and its neighbouring tango academy are
dedicated entirely to Argentina’s sultry national dance.
Walls are covered in portraits and murals of famous
dancers and musicians and you can have private
lessons yourself, or join in with a ‘milonga’ (group
dancing session) on Wednesdays or Sundays. The hotel
has a small pool and gym area on its rooftop terrace,
as well as an internal courtyard where barbecues often
take place.
Alvear Palace, Buenos Aires
This hotel, generally regarded as the grandest in
Buenos Aires, is located in the heart of Recoleta, the
most refined quarter of the city, amongst the chic
boutiques of the Avenida Alvear. It opened in 1932
and has an elegant imposing architecture and
decoration, it has recently been refurbished
throughout; the 80 palace rooms and 120 suites are
luxuriously furnished, while the excellent restaurants
are famous throughout the city.
ARGENTINA
47
Vineyards around Mendoza
Estancias around
Buenos Aires
Just over an hour through the flat, rolling pampas
outside Buenos Aires lie a cluster of traditional working
ranches which offer visitors the chance to live life the
rural Argentinian way. In all our favourite estancias you
will be the guest of a family who will usually have
owned the property for generations, and who still make
their living from it. Sleep in four- poster beds under
ancestral portraits, roam the private land on foot or
horseback, relax by the swimming pool, and enjoy the
hearty hospitality of your hosts. As well as the iconic
gaucho, some estancias are home to Argentina’s
famous polo ponies and players, and we can arrange
lessons and even games if this is where your interest
lies. Some of our particular favourite estancias include
La Bamba (see right), El Ombu de Areco, El Rosario,
La Escondida, La Porteña and Dos Talas. Please talk to
our specialists here to find the one that best suits your
wishes and budget.
La Bamba
Recognisable for its rose-coloured exterior, roofed
verandas and watchtower, La Bamba is a beautiful
colonial house set in hectares of private land on which
guests can horse-ride, fish, hike and join in activities on
the farm, or simply relax by the swimming pool.
Bedrooms are old-fashioned, unique and charming,
croquet games take place on the perfectly manicured
lawn and a swimming pool is shaded by glorious trees,
under which you can dine al fresco on hearty
Argentinian beef.
Estancia La Bamba
48
URUGUAY
The tiny country of Uruguay lies sandwiched
between its two giant neighbours, Argentina and
Brazil. Two of its chief attractions lie a couple of
hours by ferry across the River Plate, and so make a
fascinating excursion from Buenos Aires. Take a
step back in time to the sleepy town of Colonia del
Sacramento which has a UNESCO protected
colonial heart. It is a place of cobbled streets,
picture-perfect Spanish and Portuguese houses, art
galleries and cafes, lapped on three sides by the
brown waters of the River Plate. Montevideo, the
capital of the country, is an intriguing place that
moves at a far slower pace than Buenos Aires, it
has a handsome centre dotted with plazas, and
some wonderful restaurants. Uruguay’s trendiest
beach resort is the famous Punta del Este, where
the beautiful people go to show-off, 24 hours a
day.
Classic
Argentina
During this three week trip, you will take in the varied
sights and icons for which Argentina is famous - from
gauchos to glaciers, and wine to waterfalls. Begin in
vibrant Buenos Aires and from there fly down into
deepest Patagonia to sail the Beagle Channel and
marvel at glaciers before coming back northwards via
the marine wildlife haven of Peninsula Valdés to the
more gentle picture-postcard scenery of the Lake
District. After several days’ relaxing amongst the
wineries of Mendoza, you will then finish your trip at
the dramatic Iguazú Falls.
Colonia, Uruguay
MENDOZA
Where Argentina rears up into the foothills of the
Andes, lively Mendoza is at the heart of the selfstyled “land of sunshine and wine”. Spread across
the valley of the river of the same name, Mendoza
is a pleasant city with wide tree-lined streets, plazas
and avenues. The vast majority of visitors here have
come with one thing in mind; the grape, and its
world-renowned wines. If you have time, this
region has other, often overlooked, attractions.
Heading west, you can take a panoramic ‘Alta
Montana’ route into the Andes to view Mount
Aconcagua, the highest point in the Americas, and
the statue of Christ the Redeemer, who stands at
4000 metres as a symbol of friendship between
Argentina and Chile. A road also climbs over the
top of the Andes to Santiago, one breathtaking
way of travelling between the two countries.
Back to wine, and the Mendoza province, while not
having exclusive rights to Argentina’s output, does
lay claim to at least 70% of it, thanks to its ideal
climate and the snowmelt from the Andes. The
sight of the rows of lush green vines against a
backdrop of snow-dusted peaks makes this an
extremely picturesque outing, before you’ve even
begun to sample the wares! There are a large
number of bodegas welcoming tourists with guided
tours, tastings and lunches, and wine buffs can
make day trips out from Mendoza city into the
main areas of Maipu, Tupungato and Lujan de
Cuyo or, better still, stay overnight at a winery and
explore from there.
Day 1:
Fly from the UK.
Day 2:
Early morning arrival in Buenos Aires.
Day 3:
A morning city tour, including Eva Peron’s
tomb and the bohemian La Boca district,
and evening dinner and tango show.
Tango lessons optional!
Day 4:
Drive out of the city into the pampa for
an overnight stay at an estancia.
Day 5:
Explore the countryside on horseback
and enjoy a hearty steak before returning
to Buenos Aires for your flight south to
Ushuaia, the world’s southernmost city.
Day 6:
Sail the Beagle Channel, stopping for
lunch at Estancia Harberton.
Day 7:
Take a short hike in Tierra del Fuego
National Park before taking a flight north
to El Calafate.
Day 8:
Full day’s visit to the mighty Perito
Moreno glacier, including a trek on the
ice itself.
Day 9:
Visit the Upsala and Onelli glaciers.
Day 10:
Fly to Trelew and transfer to your hotel
on Peninsula Valdés.
Day 11:
Embark on a day’s boat trip to
photograph the marine wildlife of the
National Park, including penguins and
southern right whales, dependent on the
time of year.
Day 12:
Fly to the Lake District, to stay in
Bariloche, on the shores of Nahuel
Huapi.
Day 13:
Take a chairlift ride to enjoy panoramic
views of lakes and volcanoes.
Day 14:
Day at leisure to hike in this beautiful
area and browse the chocolate shops.
Day 15:
Fly via Buenos Aires to Mendoza, drive
out of the city to stay in a posada among
the vineyards.
Day 16:
Full day’s exploration of local wineries,
including lunch and tastings.
Posada Salentein, near Mendoza
Nestling among the vines of the upper Uco Valley 100
kilometres from Mendoza is the exclusive and
beautiful Salentein property. Comprising of
immaculately cultivated farmland, a pioneering winery,
and an eight-room country house with swimming pool,
Salentein makes an interesting day trip from Mendoza
but is so appealing that we strongly recommend a stay
of one or two nights. Guests of the posada can fish,
ride, hike through the vineyards and up the Andean
slopes, enjoy visits to the Salentein bodega and other
local wineries, and finish the day glass in hand, in front
of the open fire.
Posada Salentein
Estancia Chateau D’Ancon,
near Mendoza
With a majestic Andean backdrop, landscaped
gardens and cherry trees lining the driveway, d’Ancon
feels more like a chateau than an estancia. However,
it is a genuine working ranch with cattle and horses
being just as important as the neat rows of vineyards,
chestnut and walnut trees. The baronial house is still
owned by the Bombal family, and the French and
English influences from their aristocratic education and
upbringing are evident in the décor and style of the
place. Here too, as at Salentein, you are in the heart
of the wineries, but as well as enjoying many tastings,
you can also explore the spectacular scenery on foot
or horseback from the estancia.
Day 17:
Fly to Iguazú Falls.
Day 18:
Visit the Brazilian side and take a boat
safari right up to the falls themselves.
Day 19:
Fly to Sao Paulo to connect with your
international flight home.
Day 20:
Arrive in the UK.
tailor-made travel
Hotel Plaza Mayor, Colonia
ARGENTINA
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Hill of Seven Colours
CÓRDOBA AND AROUND
In the heart of Argentina lies the modern city of
Córdoba, which is surrounded by some spectacular
mountainous landscapes. The main attraction for
visiting this area is to spend some time at one of
the wonderful estancias that lie out of the city, see
the details below.
Los Potreros, near Córdoba
Estancia Los Potreros is a delightful family-owned farm
high in the Cordoban hills, where you have the unique
opportunity to live amongst three generations of the
Anglo-Argentine owners, and experience rural life on a
working cattle ranch. Because of the house’s remote
location, perched atop the sierras, the views from foot
or horseback are spectacular, and you have over 600
acres of private land to roam around and explore.
There is also an outdoor swimming pool, and after all
that fresh air, you will very much appreciate the
delicious home-cooked food and the comfort of the
ensuite bedrooms, which are simple, charming and
individual, as you would expect from this private home.
Córdoba
50
Train to the Clouds
Dos Lunas, near Córdoba
Cosy and comfortable, this estancia is set in 7,500
acres of magnificently scenic land in the hills of
Ongamira, about one and a half hour’s drive from
Córdoba. The area is rich in history, with traces of
indigenous Indian communities as well as Jesuit
missions, the main attraction is riding: it is ideal horse
country and the farm has its own stables. Alternatively,
explore on foot or relax in the gardens or by the pool
and watch condors circle around the mountain peaks.
Los Potreros
Estancia La Paz, near Córdoba
Originally built in 1830, the Estancia La Paz counts a
former president of Argentina as one of its past
owners. Today, this fine estancia is the perfect place to
learn the traditional Argentine game of polo, as tuition
and matches can be arranged. Horse-riding, birdwatching and trekking can also be arranged. La Paz
has 23 guestrooms, making it one of the larger
estancia properties, but it retains an intimate and
friendly atmosphere.
A Journey
to the Clouds
After time spent soaking up the atmosphere in Buenos
Aires, this itinerary loops up into Argentina’s dramatic
and little-visited northwestern area, giving you the
chance to travel through lunar landscapes, gorges and
salt flats before crossing over the high altiplano into
Chile for a stay in the highest, driest desert on earth;
the Atacama. After this, Santiago’s pleasant
boulevards will provide a stark and interesting contrast
from the sweeping arid scenery you have seen, and
you can enjoy exploring Chile’s capital before flying
back to the UK.
SALTA AND
THE NORTHWEST
Up in this far-flung corner lie great and magnificent
swathes of land that have visibly more in common
with Argentina’s Andean neighbours than the
modern, European influenced areas further south.
A lunar landscape awaits, a place of ochre deserts
dotted with cacti, and gorges striped with many
different hues. Begin your exploration in the historic
city of Salta, where striking architecture and leafy
plazas easily justify a stay for a day or two. From
here, you can take the famous and breathtaking
‘Train to the Clouds’; an engineering marvel that
twists through the sun-burnished mountains to the
Polvorilla viaduct. You can also follow a similar
route by road on the ‘Safari to the Clouds’; either
way, you will climb past giant cacti, grazing vicuña,
sculpted rocks and mountains striped red, amber,
coffee and ochre, reaching dazzling salt flats and
impossibly tiny settlements at nearly 4,000 metres
above sea level. From Purmamarca, with its Hill of
Seven Colours, you can travel further north into the
awe-inspiring scenery of the Humahuaca Gorge,
visiting quiet oasis villages, the ruins of a hilltop
fortress, exquisite churches and some of the most
important archaeological sites in the country. If you
wish to combine Argentina with Chile, we can
organize for you to traverse the high puna from this
point into the Chilean Atacama desert, in a heady
day’s travel over a high and quiet border crossing.
South of Salta lie the stunning Calchaquíes Valleys
and the vineyards of Cafayate, which can be
combined in a day’s trip, both accessible by means
of winding mountain passes above which condors
glide.
El Solar de la Plaza, Salta
This elegant colonial-style hotel is our favourite
property in central Salta. From the minute you arrive,
the wood-panelled lounge and bar, with its portraits,
open fire and armchairs, makes every guest feel
comfortable and welcome. Other benefits of this 30
bedroom property include a courtyard garden, terrace
restaurant, and rooftop swimming pool with panoramic
views of the city and mountains beyond.
Los Los, near Salta
Located in the picturesque Lerma Valley close to Salta,
the Finca Los Los offers traditional Argentine warmth
and hospitality and the opportunity for walks, horseriding, and general relaxation around the house and
the extensive grounds. Lovely at any time of year, the
summer offers the chance to make the most of the
swimming pool, whereas the wintertime can mean
sitting cosily warm on the veranda drinking mate,
admiring the russet and gold tones of the surrounding
hills and trees. This is one of our favourite places to
stay in Argentina.
El Manantial del Silencio,
Purmamarca
Facing the Hill of Seven Colours is a hotel offering a
charm and quality you would scarcely expect from a
village as small as Purmamarca. Your bedroom at El
Manantial del Silencio will be decorated in the same
simple white colonial style as the remainder of the
hotel, with flagstone flooring, huge rugs underfoot, and
a wonderfully serene feel thanks to the lack of
television or other modern disturbances. The hotel is
set around its own large gardens, with enormous
windows from the restaurant allowing diners to
appreciate the rural views while tucking into the
trademark llama medallions.
Day 1:
Fly from the UK to Buenos Aires.
Day 2:
Arrival in Buenos Aires, afternoon
helicopter ride to experience the capital
from the air.
Day 3:
Morning tour of the city and afternoon
boat ride to explore the Tigre Delta.
Day 4:
Day at leisure to further explore Buenos
Aires.
Day 5:
Fly north to Salta, afternoon city tour on
foot, enjoying the colonial architecture of
the churches and cathedral around the
main plaza.
Day 6:
Drive south through to Cafayate through
the breathtaking gorge of the same name.
Explore wineries before enjoying the
scenery in reverse on the way back to
Salta.
Day 7:
Early start to make the spectacular Safari
to the Clouds journey, eating a traditional
lunch at nearly 4,000m before continuing
through dazzling salt flats to Purmamarca.
Day 8:
Photograph Purmamarca’s Hill of Seven
Colours which is opposite your hotel,
before setting off north to explore the
Humahuaca Gorge.
Day 9:
Cross the high altiplano into Chile’s
Atacama Desert, arriving in the oasis
town by evening.
Day 10-11:
Excursions in the Atacama desert.
Day 12:
Drive to Calama airport for your flight to
Santiago.
Day 13:
A morning city tour and afternoon winery
visit.
Day 14:
Fly to the UK.
Day 15:
Arrive in the UK.
Atacama Desert, Chile
tailor-made travel
Los Los
ARGENTINA
51
Iguazú Falls
IGUAZÚ FALLS
The most dramatic waterfalls in the world tumble
over the cliffs at the border of Argentina and Brazil.
It is said that Argentina provides the show and
Brazil enjoys the view, and certainly the more
panoramic walkways are on the Brazilian side.
However, a visit to the Argentine side is a must as it
is here you can get up close and personal with the
falls. Nature is showcased at its fiercest in the
foaming cauldron of the Devil’s Throat, where
several falls join together to hurtle down a sheer
drop, a dizzying view is provided from your catwalk
vantage point. The falls also showcase nature at its
most beautiful, as green jungle and blue sky
combine with white water and rainbows to ensure
that your walks along the twisting paths above and
below the falls provide a photo-opportunity at every
turn.
Yacutinga Lodge
This lodge and its surrounding nature reserve are part
of a sustainable eco-project which protects the subtropical rainforest. It offers its visitors an exciting
ecological experience whilst staying in its comfortable
lodgings. Excursions are focused on providing guests
with an understanding of the area by walking through
nature trails, floating down the river on a raft or
relaxing in the grounds listening to the birdsong.
THE NORTHEAST
AND PARAGUAY
Although Iguazú Falls are the undoubted highlight
of Argentina’s northeast, the region has other
attractions for visitors. The Iberá marshes of
Corrientes are rich in wildlife viewing opportunities,
in an area where otters, caiman, capybaras, wolves
and anacondas live in and around a network of
lagoons and creeks. Along the red earth roads of
Misiones province and also across the border in
Paraguay lie some Jesuit missions that have been
recovered from the emerald forest, the most
impressive of which are San Ignacio Miní and Santa
Ana. If you are curious about the little-visited
country of Paraguay then we can arrange trips that
start in the capital Asuncion and travel via a local
ranch and the Jesuit ruins of Trinidad before
finishing at Iguazú in Argentina.
Sheraton Internacional, Iguazú
Located within the Iguazú National Park, the Sheraton
Internacional is superbly located for visitors to the falls.
The lower circuit of walkways around the falls are
accessible by foot in minutes from the hotel. The
property has 181 rooms, some of which face the falls
and others that face the jungle. All are as spacious
and well-appointed as you would expect of a Sheraton
property.
Toucan
52
Yacutinga Lodge
Tango
and Gaucho
This trip gives you the chance to throw yourself into
some of Argentina’s most famous traditions and delve
into the authentic rural lifestyle of the iconic gaucho.
Stay in exclusive estancias in landscapes as varied as
the pampa, Patagonia, the sierra, and the northwest,
and test your coordination with some tango lessons
and a heady gallop through stunning scenery. All this
physical exercise means that you’ll enjoy your wellearned steak and red wine amid the urbane
sophistication of Buenos Aires even more!
Day 1:
Day 2:
Early arrival and transfer to your tangodedicated converted mansion where you
will stay.
Day 3:
Morning city tour, afternoon private
tango lesson, and evening dinner and
dance show.
Day 4:
Morning private tango lesson and evening
transfer to a ‘milonga’, or group dance
session.
Day 5:
Fly south to El Calafate, transfer to your
rustic ranch.
Lake District
LAKE DISTRICT
Argentina’s Lake District is a beautiful area of glacial
lakes, emerald forests and extinct snow-capped
volcanoes. Often compared to the picture-perfect
scenery of Switzerland because of its clean, crisp air,
abundance of flowers and glittering waters, this
region nonetheless has a very distinct flavour that is
all its own. The two main centres are San Martin de
los Andes in the north and Bariloche in the south.
Either is an ideal base from which to explore the
abundance of pristine national parks throughout
this area, although Bariloche, with its Alpine feel, is
the better known town with a wider range of
accommodation options. Here we can organise for
you to take a chairlift ride to soak up panoramic
views of lakes and volcanoes stretching as far as the
eye can see, we can take you hiking and picnicking
through woodland trails, arrange a few days car
hire to explore at your own pace, or simply leave
you to relax. In the Austral winter the town
becomes a popular ski resort. Another
breathtakingly scenic route across the Chilean
border starts in Bariloche: the Lake Crossing takes
you by road and a succession of lake ferries to the
town of Puerto Varas. The area around the town of
San Martin de los Andes is great horse-riding
country, and there are several trails ranging from a
day to a week or more that are recommended for
experienced horse-riders. This area also has some
lovely estancias, including Estancia Huechahue,
from where you can horse-ride into the spectacular
Lanín National Park, and Tipiliuke Lodge, a great
place for riding and also fly-fishing.
Llao Llao, Bariloche
Stunningly set in the Nahuel Huapi National Park close
to Bariloche, the Llao Llao Hotel & Resort is one of
the finest places to stay in the country. Its 147
guestrooms and 12 suites are spacious yet cosy, and
the hotel boasts an 18-hole course, plus a spa with a
full range of treatments. Activities available to book
through the hotel include trekking, archery, fly-fishing,
windsurfing and hiking.
Llao Llao, Bariloche
Day 6:
Visit the famous Perito Moreno glacier.
Day 7:
Exploring Patagonia on horseback or by
foot.
Day 8:
Fly north to Córdoba via Buenos Aires,
and drive to the family-owned farm high
in the hills where you will stay.
Day 9-10:
Riding around the central sierra.
Day 11:
Return flight to Buenos Aires, drive into
the pampa to your elegant estancia there.
Day 12:
Watch a gaucho demonstration and relax
by the pool.
Day 13:
Return to Buenos Aires. Evening trip to
the milonga to see if you have
remembered your moves.
Day 14:
Fly back to the UK.
Day 15:
Arrival in the UK.
Perito Moreno
Lupins
tailor-made travel
Lake District
ARGENTINA
53
PENÍNSULA VALDÉS
AND AROUND
This wild and treeless tag of land, loosely linked to
the mainland and reaching out into the South
Atlantic, is a UNESCO-registered nature reserve that
is home to a large variety of wildlife. Whales,
penguins and elephant seals make up part of the
profusion of marine life, whilst guanacos, rheas and
armadillos roam around on the land. Southern right
whales can be spotted during their breeding season
of June to December, killer whales can be spotted
from November through to April, and August to
October is the best time to observe the elephant
seals. There are estancias where you can stay on
the isthmus itself, or base yourself in the town of
Puerto Madryn which in 1865 was the site of the
first Welsh landing in the area. Their legacy remains
today: Welsh-speakers, tearooms and Eisteddfods
add a distinctive cultural flavour to the region.
Another attraction is the noisy colony of Magellanic
penguins at Punta Tombo, where chicks appear
from November and take to the water from
January.
Elephant seals, Peninsula Valdés
PERITO MORENO AND THE
GLACIER NATIONAL PARK
The magnificent centrepiece of the Glacier National
Park is the creaking hulk of ice that is the Perito
Moreno glacier. Its age-old turquoise folds and
white peaks have advanced into Lago Argentino,
pausing for now in a frontage of five kilometres
across and 60 metres high. From an observation
platform or a boat a safe distance away, listen for
an eerie creak that indicates a large chunk of ice is
about to calve off and crash noisily into the milky
waters of Lago Argentino, where it then drifts idly
away. For a different view, we can arrange trekking
on the glacier itself where the crunchy meringuelike ice is punctuated by glowing sapphire
crevasses. Other glaciers worth a visit are those of
Upsalla and Onelli, visited through a day trip out by
boat to the northwestern end of Lago Argentino.
Your base for excursions in this area of the park will
be around the glacier itself or in the town of El
Calafate.
Another face of the Glacier National Park is where
the granite peaks of the Mount Fitz Roy massif rise
up from the windswept Patagonia steppe. This is
challenging but rewarding trekking country, where
it is best to base yourself in the small town of El
Chaltén and set off for day trips to explore.
Perito Moreno
54
Los Notros
Patagonia estancias
The cosy and luxurious Los Notros has an enviable
position on a wooded hillside by Lago Argentino,
opposite the Perito Moreno glacier. All the comfortable
bedrooms provide a view of the glacier, as does the
spacious dining area where you will be served your fine
home-cooked food, while the stunning terrace is the
perfect place to sit with a hot chocolate and gaze at
the view. This hotel provides an exclusive and intimate
atmosphere from which to explore the surrounding
national park.
The estancias of southern Patagonia are in the main
vast sheep farms, and though many have now opened
their doors to travellers, some continue to be working
farms as well. They are generally more simple than the
Spanish-colonial equivalents further north in the
country, but offer similar experiences such as horseriding, hiking and fishing followed by evenings by the
fire with a glass of wine and the chance to share
stories with your hosts. Our favourites in this area
include Nibepo Aike, Estancia Helsingfors, Alta Vista,
El Galpón and Eolo, which opens in March 2005.
Los Notros
Patagonia
Magellanic penguins, Punta Tombo
Wildlife, wineries
& w at e r f a l l s
Perfect for nature-lovers who would like to delve into
Argentina’s wildlife, this trip should ideally be made
between September and November, which is when
visitors to Peninsula Valdés stand the best chance of
seeing southern right whales, not to mention the seals
and penguins. In northern Patagonia, you can expect
to see guanacos and rheas, while Yacutinga Lodge, set
in the jungle close to Iguazú Falls, is a birdwatcher’s
haven. In between these areas, relax with a glass of
wine in the wineries district of Mendoza.
Mount Fitz Roy, Glacier National Park
USHUAIA
AND TIERRA DEL FUEGO
The Andes finally slide into sea at the bottom of the
archipelago at the very tip of South America. Tierra
del Fuego conjures up images of frothing waves,
howling gales and isolation, and whilst this is not
entirely the case, the area certainly has a windy
end-of-the-world feel. The heart of the island is the
lively city of Ushuaia, whose colourful houses spill
down from the sides of imposing snowy mountains
before stopping abruptly at the shores of the icy
Beagle Channel. Ushuaia is the base for exploring
the region’s attractions such as Lapataia National
Park, the ‘Train to the End of the World’ in Tierra
del Fuego National Park, trips out with the seabirds
on the Beagle Channel, and also a visit to the
historic Estancia Harberton which was built by a
British missionary on one of the farthest outposts of
the continent. Ushuaia is also the starting point for
trips to Antarctica and also on the Cruceros
Australis boats (see page 42).
Ushuaia
Day 1:
Day 2:
Arrival in Buenos Aires and transfer out
of the city to your rural estancia.
Day 3:
Horse riding and walking in the pampa.
Day 4:
Return to Buenos Aires and fly south to
Trelew for your stay at an estancia on
Peninsula Valdés.
Day 5-6:
Spend two days enjoying the marine
wildlife off the isthmus.
Day 7:
Visit the Punta Tombo penguin sanctuary.
Day 8:
Fly back to Buenos Aires.
Day 9:
A full day tour of the city.
Day 10:
Fly to Mendoza and explore wineries
outside the city, staying amongst the
vineyards.
Day 11:
At leisure, wine tasting.
Day 12:
Return to Mendoza and fly via Buenos
Aires to Iguazú.
Day 13:
Visit the Brazilian and Argentinian side of
the falls.
Day 14:
Transfer to Yacutinga Lodge. Explore the
jungle.
Day 15:
At Yacutinga Lodge.
Day 16:
Return to Iguazú and fly to Buenos Aires.
Day 17:
Fly to the UK.
Day 18:
Arrive in the UK.
Beagle Channel
Iguazú Falls
tailor-made travel
Tierra del Fuego
ARGENTINA
55
Antarctica
Antarctica, owned by no one and
visited by few, is the world’s coldest,
windiest and wildest continent. It is an
area of awe-inspiring desolation, yet
captivating beauty, where you can see
the clearest sky, the bluest sea, the most
56
dazzling snow and the most radiant
sunshine. In the endless days of an
Austral summer icebergs drift slowly by
as whales flip their tails above glassy
seas, sea lions bask on icy shelves and
penguins chatter in vast communities,
man’s presence is seen only rarely: the
abandoned shelters of polar explorers
and whaling stations rusting in the sun.
Visiting what is possibly the world’s
ultimate travel frontier will be a truly
unforgettable experience.
ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES
We only work with companies in Antarctica who
are committed to ensuring that any impact on the
environment is minimised. Preliminary reports
suggest that tourism has not had a detrimental
effect on this unspoilt continent, due predominantly
to the exemplary attitude of the expedition
operators, who ensure that all visitors behave in the
appropriate manner with regard to the
environment.
Adult seal
AUDLEY IN ANTARCTICA
WHEN TO GO
Antarctic cruises are educational and challenging
and like no other. We recommend a small selection
of expedition vessels for Antarctic cruising, details
of which are overleaf. They all depart from Ushuaia
(other than the Antarctica xxi fly-cruise, which
leaves from Punta Arenas in Chile). The cruise
companies operate a selection of trips ranging from
the typical classic Antarctica cruises that usually last
about 10 days to trips of up to 20 days which take
in the Antarctic Peninsula, South Georgia and the
Falkland Islands. Some operators include an
(optional) night’s camping, bathing in self-dug
thermal pools and sea-kayaking, or operate special
cruises with themes such as photography. Please
contact us for further details on all of these options,
including dates and prices.
Cruises to Antarctica operate during the Austral
summer, November to March. There is no ‘best’
time to go within this period, although the different
months do have unique characteristics. November is
the courting season for penguins and sea birds
whilst spring wildflowers are in bloom on the
Falkland Islands and the spring ice is breaking up
creating sculptured shapes. In December and
January, the first seal pups and penguin chicks are
born on South Georgia and the Falkland Islands,
whales are starting to appear more frequently, and
the days are at their longest. By February and
March whale sighting is at its best and the penguin
chicks are beginning to fledge, building up their
strength for the long winter ahead.
Polar Star zodiac excursion
King penguin colony
ANTARCTICA
57
Grytviken, South Georgia
Polar Star
Originally an icebreaker for the Swedish navy, the Polar
Star has been completely refitted to serve Polar Star
Expeditions in the Arctic and Antarctica. The 46
cabins range from those with shared facilities to
spacious suites, and all have external windows. She
has seven decks in total and extensive outside areas,
ideal for wildlife viewing opportunities. She also has a
large observation lounge and full open bridge policy.
Excellent guides and crew combined with the
comfortable ship itself make the Polar Star one of our
favourite vessels operating expeditions to the Antarctic
Peninsula.
Quark Expeditions
Innovators in polar cruising, Quark Expeditions have
many years’ experience in planning and operating
expedition cruises in Antarctica. Currently operating
four ships in the region, Quark’s ice-strengthened
vessels are small and comfortable, and are highly
regarded for the quality of their expedition staff. The
M/V Orlova carries a maximum of 110 passengers,
while the Professor Multanovskiy, Professor Molchanov
and Akademik Shokalskiy take a maximum of 49
passengers on their cruises.
Explorer II
The largest and most ‘cruise ship’ like of the vessels
that Audley use in Antarctica, the Explorer II
accommodates a maximum of 199 guests in luxurious
comfort. As well as the spacious outside cabins, the
ship has plenty of communal areas such as a lecture
hall, Shackleton Bar and large dining area and café, as
well as smoking and card rooms, a swimming pool and
a gymnasium.
Explorer II
Polar Star
58
Professor Molchanov, Quark Expeditions
Classic
Antar ctica
Below is an itinerary that serves as an example of how
Audley can include an Antarctic cruise within a South
American tailor-made itinerary. Please contact us for
details of departure dates and cruise itineraries, and
we can then arrange a trip for you around the cruise
that best suits your preference for duration and
budget.
King penguins
Peregrine
The two ships operated by Peregrine for their Antarctic
cruise programme are solid, comfortable expedition
vessels, ideally suited for Antarctic adventures. Taking
between 100 and 110 passengers when full, the
Peregrine cruises are notable for their excellent onboard polar specialists, and also for the options which
give passengers the chance to spend a night camping
under the stars, or kayaking amongst the towering
icebergs.
Antarctica xxi
Pioneering a new way of travel to the Antarctic
Peninsula, Antarctica xxi offers the first air-cruise.
Using a DASH-7 plane to fly from Punta Arenas, Chile,
across the Drake Passage, you will board your cruise
boat which will be waiting at King George Island. You
will then have a six day cruise aboard the vessel
Alexsey Maryshev before returning to Punta Arenas
by air.
Day 1:
Day 2:
Arrival in Buenos Aires, afternoon at
leisure.
Day 3:
Day 4:
Fly to Ushuaia, the world’s southernmost
city.
Day 5:
Meet up with your fellow cruise
passengers and board your expedition
vessel, set sail along the Beagle Channel
towards the Drake Passage.
Day 6:
Travel across the Drake Passage.
Day 7:
Continue through the Drake Passage,
your first iceberg sighting should be
today.
Day 8:
Visit the penguin rookeries and spot fur
seals and elephant seals on the South
Shetland Islands.
Day 9-11:
Visit the Antarctic Peninsula, daily
disembarkations for wildlife spotting and
visits to sites of historical interest, plus
navigations through some beautiful
narrow passages between rugged rock
faces and glaciers.
Day 12:
Leave Antarctica and head back towards
the Drake Passage.
Day 13:
Cross the Drake Passage.
Day 14:
Morning arrival in Ushuaia, transfer to the
airport for your flight to Buenos Aires. An
evening dinner and tango show.
Day 15:
Transfer to the airport for your flight to
the UK.
Day 16:
Arrive in the UK.
Akademik Ioffe, Peregrine
tailor-made travel
ANTARCTICA
59
Falkland Islands
Huge skies, the purest of fresh air, peace
and tranquillity, warm hospitality, and
penguins curiously inspecting your
shoelaces, all parts of the experience of
visiting these wild and rugged islands
situated just one hour’s flight off
mainland South America. Consisting of
two main islands - East and West
60
Falkland, as well as numerous outlying
islands scattered close by in the South
Atlantic seas, one of the main reasons
to visit is for the outstanding wildlife
viewing opportunities. However, the
fabulous bird and marine life is just
part of the islands’ charm. It is a
wonderful destination for those with an
interest in farming, the military history
of the region, or if you wish to learn
about the pioneer spirit of islander’s
ancestors, or for those who simply want
to walk, draw, photograph or fish in
glorious isolation. A visit to the unique,
starkly beautiful Falkland Islands is a
rich, rewarding experience.
ACCOMMODATION
Accommodation, apart from in the capital Stanley,
is in family lodges or self-catering cottages within
the settlement. Standards vary, for example en suite
facilities are not always available, and guests are
generally expected to dine and socialise together.
Your hosts will act as your guides to the local
sights. Not all of the islands are currently open to
visitors, and there are also some other lodges
scattered throughout East and West Falkland that
are not mentioned here. Our partners in the
Falklands keep us up to date with all the tourism
developments as they happen. An alternative way
to visit the islands is as part of an Antarctica cruise
that stops off here, please see the separate section
for further details.
CLIMATE
The Falkland Islands have a temperate climate, with
the ideal time to visit falling during the summer
months between October and March. It is at this
time that the hours of daylight are at their longest,
however ‘four seasons in one day’ is always a
possibility, and the winds are persistent all year
round.
AUDLEY IN
THE FALKLAND ISLANDS
Our first-hand knowledge of the islands, the
accommodation and the excursions available means
that we will ensure you get the most out of your
visit by creating a trip tailored just for you. Getting
there is an adventure in itself - we use either the
weekly LAN service from Santiago via Punta Arenas
(ideal if you are already on a trip to Chile), or you
can travel on the RAF service from Brize Norton via
Ascension Island. In either case you land at the
military base of Mount Pleasant from where you
will start your tour. Travelling between the islands is
by the FIGAS (Falkland Island Government Air
Service) eight seater twin-engined Islander aircraft
which act almost as a taxi service. We will design
your trip to suit your specific interests, and your trip
will probably take in Stanley plus one or two
‘Camp’ settlements (Camp is the term for any
settlements within the islands that are not Stanley).
Rockhopper penguins
Penguin tracks
Seal pup
FALKLAND ISLANDS
61
Stanley
STANLEY
VOLUNTEER POINT
PORT HOWARD
The capital of the Falklands, with a population of
2000, is a charming place, consisting of just a few
streets of colourful houses, a smattering of red
phone boxes, a few lively pubs and a selection of
the latest four wheel drives, all set on a gentle
slope beside Stanley Harbour. The compact town
can be easily appreciated simply by wandering the
streets on foot. From the 1982 Memorial walk
along the harbour front, passing the rusting hulks
of ships that never made it round treacherous Cape
Horn, explore the whimsical Stanley Museum, visit
the world’s most southerly cathedral and stand
beneath Whale Bone Arch, made in 1933 from
jawbones of two blue whales to celebrate the
centenary of continuous British administration. Pass
Jubilee Villas (built to commemorate Queen
Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee), drop into the
informative Visitor’s Centre, then explore Cartmell
Cottage, one of the earliest residential buildings in
Stanley, which was built in 1849 from a kit sent
from Britain. For accommodation in Stanley we
recommend either the Malvina House Hotel or the
cosy bed and breakfast The Waterfront.
A bumpy three hour journey by 4WD across rolling
moors brings you to Volunteer Point, home to the
world’s largest accessible colony of king penguins.
Here, you step into a world where the white sandy
beach, rolling hills, lagoon and the pebble shore
belong to the penguins, you are a guest that they
tolerate (along with the local geese and sheep) as
they go about their daily life of breeding, protecting
and feeding their young, and playing with each
other in sociable groups. Take a seat on the grass to
observe the endearingly comical sight of what
appear to be balls of brown fluff with feet, these
are the young king penguins in their downy
adolescence, before they moult to reveal their
sophisticated black and white coats with distinctive
amber neck markings.
A working farm, on the edge of Bold Cove on West
Falkland, Port Howard is a fascinating introduction
to the farming history of the islands. The FIGAS
flight will bring you in over the high ridge that
circles the farm and you will soon be tucking into
the hearty ‘smoko’ (tea and cake break) that is
typical of the Falklands. You may be here at the
right time to see some of the sheep shearing gangs
hard at work, other possible excursions include
fishing trips and 4WD outings to some of the
nearby wildlife sites, or a game of golf (carefully
avoiding the well marked minefields) on the course
behind the farm.
Pebble Island
Black-browed albatross
Carcass Island
62
DARWIN AND GOOSE GREEN
The East Falkland area of Goose Green and Darwin
has become synonymous with the 1982 conflict.
Ken and Bonnie, your hosts at the comfortable
Darwin Lodge, will act as your guides to the Goose
Green battle site, the War Museum and the
windswept and poignant British and Argentinian
cemeteries.
Falklands
Discovered
There are many different sights to be explored in the
Falkland Islands, where you go depends on your area
of interest. This itinerary takes in a basic overview of
the highlights, visiting a traditional farm, some
wonderful wildlife spots and the capital of Stanley.
It uses the LAN flights via Santiago, but we can also
use the RAF service from Brize Norton.
King penguins, Volunteer Point
CARCASS ISLAND
PEBBLE ISLAND
When the sun is shining, this is arguably the most
beautiful of the islands, with rolling green hills
contrasting with vibrant yellow gorse, white sand
beaches and the pale blue sea. Wildlife spotting
opportunities are plentiful, with gentoo and
magellanic penguin breeding colonies within a few
hours scenic but windy walk from Rob McGill’s
settlement, although if you do not feel like a long
walk the penguins sometimes obligingly nest within
the settlement itself. Other sighted inhabitants
include kelp, upland and ruddy geese, Patagoniancrested duck, flightless steamer duck, Falkland
thrush, caracara, and pied, black and magellanic
oyster catchers.
A lovely place for hiking and wildlife spotting in the
day and relaxing and enjoying the cosy lodge in the
evening, Pebble Island boasts a fine array of noisy
penguin colonies, where it has been known for
visitors to see six different species of penguin in a
single day. This is a great place to spend hours
immersed in the dynamics of penguin society. Take
a seat on a nearby rock to watch the sociable
rockhoppers leave their nests, gather in little
groups, and set off in their comical gait for the
perilous trip down the cliffs to the sea. Once their
hard day’s fishing and feeding is done they have a
little play in a rock pool at the foot of the cliffs (safe
from their predators that lurk in the ocean), before
hopping back up the cliffs and home.
Day 1:
Day 2:
Arrive in Santiago, an afternoon city tour.
Day 3:
Fly to Mount Pleasant in the Falkland
Islands, via Punta Arenas in southern
Chile. On arrival you will board a local
flight to Port Howard.
Day 4:
Exploring the farm at Port Howard.
Day 5:
Fly to Carcass Island. Take a walk to
discover the penguin colonies close to
your accommodation.
Day 6:
At leisure on Carcass Island.
Day 7:
Fly to Pebble Island, your hosts will take
you out to explore the sea lion and
penguin colonies.
Day 8:
Fly to Stanley, a walking tour of the
capital.
Day 9:
A full day excursion to the king penguin
colony at Volunteer Point.
Day 10:
Transfer to Mount Pleasant for your flight
to Santiago.
Day 11:
Fly to the UK.
Day 12:
Arrive in the UK.
SAUNDERS ISLAND
Home to king, rockhopper and magellanic
penguins, plus the world’s largest colony of blackbrowed albatross and many other varieties of sea
bird, as well as sea lions and dolphins frolicking in
the shallows of the harbour, Saunders Island is a
wildlife lovers’ paradise. Mr and Mrs Pole-Evans
own the island and will ensure that you see the
best of the wildlife and if this is the main purpose
of your trip to the Falklands we recommend staying
overnight at The Neck, an isolated hide where the
natural world takes centre stage.
SEA LION ISLAND
Sea Lion Island boasts the most hotel-like
accommodation outside of the capital in the
tasteful and elegant Sea Lion Lodge. Its ideal
location makes a pre-breakfast amble through the
tussac grass to the sea a delightful way to start the
day. Here you can sit quietly with the sea lions and
seals who are lazing about on the sandy beach, but
since killer whales have been known to arrive at the
shore to snatch their breakfast, we recommend
avoiding a morning dip in the sea.
Local transport
EXTENSIONS
As the LAN flights to and from the Falkland Islands
originate in Chile, this wonderful country is perfectly
combined with the Falkland Islands. Trips to the
Atacama Desert, the Lake District, Patagonia and
Easter Island can all be included with a visit to the
Falklands.
Stanley
tailor-made travel
Fur seal pup
Stanley
FALKLAND ISLANDS
63
Brazil
Immense in size and experience, this
Latin American giant is a heady delight
of natural spectacle, vibrant cities,
golden beaches and intoxicating rhythm
linked to a fascinating history and hope
for the future. Brazil is a scintillating
place that surpasses expectations; the
64
images you have in your head of
barefoot boys skillfully playing football
on the beach and steamy expanses of
emerald rainforest will all be turned to
reality, and you will see so much more
besides. From thundering waterfalls to
colonial towns, from wetlands teeming
with wildlife to deserted beaches, Brazil
is a geographically, ethnically and
culturally diverse country. To a
soundtrack of mellow bossa nova and
with a caipirinha in hand, immerse
yourself in Brazil.
AUDLEY IN BRAZIL
There are different schools of thought when it
comes to travelling to Brazil. There are those visitors
who want to make the most of the country in one
visit, and therefore see the main highlights such as
Rio, Iguaçu, the Amazon and Salvador. Doing this
entails many hours of flying over this vast country
(the flight from Sao Paulo to Manaus alone takes
four hours), but for the visitor who does not plan to
return to Brazil then it is a worthwhile endeavour.
The other idea is to break Brazil up into different
regions, and concentrate on a particular area, such
as the south, or the northeast. Our specialists, who
are all well-travelled around the country, will be
able to advise on the best trip for you and give
honest opinions on the many sights that Brazil has
to offer.
CARNIVAL
ACCOMMODATION
Brazil has much fine accommodation, from luxury
five star properties in the cities, to charming
‘pousadas’ (small family-run properties similar to
bed and breakfasts, usually in renovated colonial
buildings) and some lovely beach resorts dotted
along the many miles of fabulous coastline. Where
possible, we like to make use of the character
properties rather than the high-rise chain hotels,
and we return regularly to inspect them to ensure
standards remain high.
In the days leading up to Ash Wednesday, Brazil
stops work and explodes in a riot of colour,
costumes, music and dancing. This is the Carnival; a
time to dress up (or down) for all to see and to
dance without a care in the world. The biggest and
brashest festivities are in Rio, where gaudy floats
adorned with gyrating dancers entertain the
spectators in the purpose-built sambodrome, and
Masquerade Balls at the five-star hotels are an
extravagant mix of the exotic and erotic. However,
for a more participatory celebration, head north to
Salvador or Olinda, where the festivities whirl
through the streets for days on end. Do not expect
to get much sleep, but if your wallet and body can
take the strain then the carnival is undoubtedly one
of the greatest shows on Earth. We can organise
your hotel stay, along with any carnival tickets you
may require.
CLIMATE
Brazil can be visited year round. Other than the far
south and southeast of the country which has a
cooler period between June and September, the
rest of the country has a warm tropical climate.
There is a rainy season that affects the northeast
from about April to July, and Rio and the south
from October to January, but in general the
weather is excellent.
Carnival in Rio de Janeiro
BRAZIL
65
Fazenda Ponte Alta, near Rio
This beautifully preserved country farm, situated in the
Paraiba Valley about two hours north of Rio, will give
you an insight into 19th century Brazil when this farm
was one of the foremost coffee producers in the
country. The rooms are furnished with original antiques
from the period and the fazenda aims to provide a
relaxing and welcoming atmosphere where guests can
enjoy walking, horseriding and visiting the nearby
working coffee plantation.
GREEN COAST
Paraty
RIO DE JANEIRO
The Cariocas (residents of Rio) have a saying that
God created the world in seven days, the eighth he
devoted to Rio de Janeiro. As you stand on top of
Sugar Loaf Mountain at sunset, with the city curling
its way around the granite peaks, forests and
golden beaches below you, and with the iconic
statue of Christ the Redeemer, arms aloft, high
behind you on Corcovado, you may be inclined to
agree. The sheer beauty of Rio is breathtaking, and
the vibrancy is captivating. It is a city that will keep
you busy and probably tire you out, whether you
are exploring the colonial centre, relaxing with the
locals on the golden sands of Copacabana or
Ipanema, taking the rickety tram to bohemian
Santa Teresa or hang-gliding off one of the peaks
to the beach below. You could also take in a
football game at the mighty Maracanã or wander
around the Museum of Contemporary Art in
Niteroi, housed in a voluptuous building which the
architect claims was inspired by all that is famous in
Rio - the white beaches, the mountains, the
churches and the beautiful suntanned women.
Copacabana Palace
This Orient Express-owned hotel overlooks its
namesake beach, and is regarded as the most
traditional and luxurious hotel in Rio. It is an art-deco
landmark with 226 rooms and suites, a fine pool area
and renowned restaurants. Audley clients who stay
here will join a guest list of film stars, royalty and
politicians spanning eight decades.
As you head west of Rio, the high-rise suburbs give
way to mile upon mile of luscious emerald
rainforest covering rolling hills and tropical white
sand beaches. This is Rio state’s ‘Costa Verde’
(Green Coast). The first place that you will come
across will be Angra dos Reis, a weekend
playground for the rich and famous of Rio. Dotted
amongst the vegetation are some of the best beach
resorts in Brazil, such as the Pestana Angra. Close
by is the jungle covered island of Ilha Grande, a
peaceful haven where no motor vehicles are
allowed and where the beaches are divine. Another
couple of hours on the road will take you to the
delightful colonial town of Paraty. This peaceful and
picturesque town is practically unaltered since it
was the principle port for the gold trade in the
colonial era, and the cobbled streets and ornate
churches are an absolute delight to wander around
on foot. A couple of days here is a perfect way to
relax; there are bicycle tours heading into the
nearby hills, or you can board a schooner to take
you to one of the multitude of small uninhabited
islands that are just off the coast.
Pousadas in Paraty
There are several charming little pousadas in Paraty
that we recommend. All are colonial houses that have
been tastefully restored to retain plenty of atmospheric
period detail. They offer elegant accommodation in a
friendly and relaxed environment, our favourites
include the Pousada do Sandi, Pousada da Marquesa,
the Porto Imperial and the Pousada do Ouro.
Copacabana Palace
Pousada do Sandi, Paraty
Pousada Picinguaba, near Paraty
The delightful Pousada Picinguaba is situated about
half an hour’s drive south of Paraty, on a calm and
peaceful bay with a sandy beach at the heart of a
tropical coastal forest running between Rio and São
Paulo. The pousada offers ten spacious rooms, the
food is excellent and carefully prepared using the best
local ingredients, and there is no TV or telephone as
the owners of Picinguaba want you to simply relax and
enjoy the gorgeous natural surroundings.
Pousada Picinguaba
66
Quintessential
Brazil
Begin in Rio de Janeiro, finish at a lovely beach resort,
and in between visit the two natural wonders that
Brazil is most famous for: the thundering Iguaçu Falls
and the steamy Amazon Rainforest. This trip involves a
lot of flying, but for those visitors who do not plan to
return to Brazil, it ensures you will see the highlights.
Day 1:
Fly from the UK to Rio de Janeiro.
Day 2:
Arrive in Rio, the afternoon will be at
leisure to relax.
Day 3:
A full day tour of the city including a trip
on the cable car to the top of Sugar Loaf
Mountain and a visit to the statue of
Christ the Redeemer.
Day 4:
Optional excursions are available in and
around the city.
Day 5:
Fly to Iguaçu, in the afternoon take a jeep
safari and a speedboat ride along the
river to the base of the falls.
Day 6:
Walking tours of the Brazilian and
Argentine sides of the waterfalls.
Day 7:
Fly to Manaus in the heart of the
Amazon, an afternoon tour of the city.
Day 8:
Travel by road and boat to your lodge in
the Amazon, explorations of the nearby
jungle with naturalist guides.
Day 9:
In the jungle.
Day 10:
Return to Manaus and fly to the exciting
city of Salvador in the northeast.
Day 11:
Day 12:
Optional excursions.
Day 13:
Travel by road to your resort near the
small fishing village of Praia do Forte.
Day 14-15:
Relaxation by the beach.
Day 16:
Transfer to Salvador for your flight to the
UK.
Day 17:
Arrival in the UK.
Sugar Loaf mountain, Rio de Janeiro
BÚZIOS
A few hours drive east of Rio, you will come to the
chic, almost Mediterranean resort of Búzios. The
town’s cobbled streets echo its past as a quiet
fishing village, but Búzios was put on the map by
Brigitte Bardot in the 1960s and has since become
a lively but relaxed place. Búzios retains a pleasant
atmosphere, and makes for a good beach extension
to any visit to Rio. Situated on a small peninsula
that is scalloped by sandy beaches, you can snorkel,
scuba, island hop on schooners or beach hop on
buggies, lie in the sun or make the most of the
cafes, restaurants and shops. There are several
lovely hotels and pousadas scattered throughout
the town, as well as the ones mentioned below we
also recommend the Colonna Park, The Pearl, the
Ferradura Private Resort and the Pousada Hibiscus
Beach.
Vila D’Este, Búzios
Vila D’Este, Búzios
A small and welcoming hotel, the twelve suites and
two bungalows of the Vila D’Este are charmingly
decorated and well appointed. The restaurant has
fantastic views of the bay, and the pool area is inviting.
Carnival, Rio de Janeiro
tailor-made travel
Football on Copacabana Beach
Casas Brancas, Búzios
Situated a ten minute walk from the main shopping
and restaurant areas of Búzios, this classy boutique
hotel has 32 stylish and minimalist rooms with lovely
views out to the sea or to the gardens. It is a relaxed
and refined property where you can laze the days
away on the terrace or in the spa, and the staff can
advise on trips around the Búzios peninsula.
Búzios
BRAZIL
67
IGUAÇU FALLS
The border between Brazil and Argentina is home
to one of the world’s greatest natural phenomena.
In the midst of a subtropical nature reserve, the
earth seems to open up and 275 separate falls
crash over a horseshoe-shaped precipice, nearly five
kilometres wide and 90 metres high. Spectacular all
year round, we recommend two days here to fully
explore the falls on both the Argentinian and
Brazilian sides. The network of walkways on the
Brazilian side provides some wonderful panoramas
of this powerful show, probably framed by
rainbows. The surrounding vegetation of the park is
also home to a rich diversity of wildlife species, and
so marvelling at the breathtaking views can be
interspersed with close encounters with the array of
birdlife and mammals, which includes tapirs,
capuchin monkeys and the coatamundi, a relation
of the racoon. Other activities include a boat safari,
which powers up the river to the foot of the falls
(and sometimes beyond).
Tropical das Cataratas,
Iguaçu
The only hotel situated inside the Iguaçu National Park
in Brazil, the Hotel Tropical das Cataratas has a
glorious location just a minute’s walk away from the
falls. Built in a colonial style, the pink-washed hotel
has 200 rooms but retains a relaxed and friendly
ambience. There are fine gardens and two swimming
pools.
Iguaçu Falls
MINAS GERAIS
The beautiful towns of Minas Gerais are testimony
to the wealth generated by Brazil’s 17th and 18th
century gold rush. Prospectors made their fortune
on the diamonds and gold found in the area, and
poured the money into the pockets of artisans who
lavishly decorated the churches. You will not find
finer preserved examples of Baroque art and
colonial architecture anywhere else in Brazil, or
possibly throughout the whole of the Americas.
Ouro Preto is the most picturesque and well
preserved town and is a UNESCO World Cultural
Monument. It is best explored on foot; the steep
streets and whitewashed colonial houses cling to
the hillside and at virtually every turn you will come
across a Baroque church with an excessively
elaborate interior, covered with saints and rosycheeked angels and anointed with gold. Another
place steeped in history is the sleepy town of
Tiradentes, whose cobbled streets and colonial
buildings, many of which are occupied by local
artists, wind gently down the hill from the Santo
Antônio church towards the charming main square.
To visit these, and other colonial towns of the area,
the journey is by road either from Rio or from the
city of Belo Horizonte, and requires at least two
days. If you have a little more time or a particular
interest in the history of this area then it is worth
heading in the opposite direction by a scenic road
to the delightful town of Diamantina, which is still a
diamond-mining town today.
Tropical das Cataratas
Pousada do Mondego,
Ouro Preto
Located in the heart of Ouro Preto, just a short walk
from the St Francis of Assisi Church, the Pousada do
Mondego is a renovated colonial building that is now a
charming place to stay. The 24 rooms are each
different in size as befits rooms in a converted
mansion, and all are cosy and charmingly decorated.
Pousada do Mondego
Hotel Solar Do Rosário,
Ouro Preto
A 19th century house that has been renovated to
become a fine hotel, the friendly Solar do Rosário is
located by the Church of Nossa Senhora do Rosário in
Ouro Preto. We particularly like the suites in the main
building, which have high ceilings, elegant decoration
and views of the church.
Hotel Solar Do Rosário
Solar da Ponte, Tiradentes
A delightful property in a lovely town, the owners of
the Solar da Ponte have created a truly exquisite
pousada for their guests. The rooms are cosy, the
grounds are spacious, and the afternoon tea served
every day at four o’clock is delicious. A tranquil haven
and a perfect base to explore the cobbled streets of
Tiradentes.
Solar da Ponte
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Ouro Preto
Samba
and Tango
This brief tour visits two of the most fascinating cities
in South America, and one of its greatest natural
wonders. Beginning in Buenos Aires, the capital of
Argentina and a sophisticated city of pavement cafes
and tango in the streets, the trip then goes north to
Iguaçu. Once you have explored all angles of this
breathtaking display of nature, you will fly to Rio de
Janeiro to spend a few days taking in its iconic sights.
Day 1:
Day 2:
Arrival in Buenos Aires, afternoon at
leisure to relax.
Day 3:
A full day tour of the city, including the
Casa Rosada Presidential Palace and the
colourful district of La Boca.
Day 4:
around the city.
Day 5:
Fly to Iguaçu and transfer to your hotel.
In the afternoon take a jeep safari and a
speedboat ride along the river to the
base of the falls.
Day 6:
Walking tours of the Brazilian and
Argentine sides of the waterfalls.
Day 7:
Fly to Rio de Janeiro. A full day tour of
the city, including a trip on the cable car
to the top of Sugar Loaf Mountain and a
visit to the statue of Christ the
Redeemer.
Day 8:
around the city.
Day 9:
Fly to the UK.
Day 10:
Arrival in the UK.
Ouro Preto
SALVADOR
Brazil’s oldest city, the capital of the state of Bahia,
is certainly one of the most beautiful and
interesting in the country, as Portugal, Africa and
Brazil all collide in a cultural melting pot. The legacy
of the Portuguese is present in the cobbled streets
of the historical Pelourinho district that are lined
with pastel-hued colonial buildings. However, it is
the influence of the African culture that really
makes a visit to Salvador unique. The culture, food
and religion of the black slaves of the past still
dominate the vibrant atmosphere of the present,
from the graceful art form of capoeira, the partdance, part-martial art which was once the slaves’
form of rebellion, to the pulsing music, dance and
colourful costumes of the candomblé religion,
which is a fusion of Catholicism and indigenous
beliefs from Africa. By day, you can enjoy the
cultural heritage by strolling by ornate churches and
candy-coloured mansions, past doorways piled high
with folk art, local sculptures and musical
instruments and through tranquil courtyards
covered in flowers. Afterwards, as the sun sets, tuck
into a delicious meal of one of the spicy specialities
of Bahian cuisine, and then take in a theatre
performance or simply place yourself in one of the
bars and watch the vibrant nightlife unfold. It is
also possible to take day trips out of the city into
the surrounding countryside to witness another side
of Bahia.
EXTENSIONS
There are many lovely beach resorts along Brazil’s
extensive coastline, and a stay at one of them can be
added to the end of any trip to the country. Whether
your holiday ends in Rio or in the north east, there are
beach properties to suit your taste and budget.
Salvador
tailor-made travel
Salvador
BRAZIL
69
Praia do Forte village
Casa das Portas Velhas,
Salvador
‘Portas Velhas’ means old doors, and the owner of this
remarkable property has decided that doors would
constitute the theme of his boutique hotel, located in
a colonial mansion in Salvador. Doors appear
everywhere – as headboards, decoration and art. This
small property is welcoming and unique.
Pousadas in Salvador
We prefer to use character pousadas in Salvador
rather than the high-rise hotels on the sea front, and
there are several that we love. They include the
Pousada Redfish, Pousada Boqueriao, Pousada das
Flores, Pousada Colonial and the Solar do Carmo.
Pousada das Flores, Salvador
Praia do Forte Eco Resort
Imbassaí, near Praia do Forte
Salvador
Praia do Forte Eco Resort,
Praia do Forte
The Praia Do Forte Eco Resort is about an hour and a
half up the coast from Salvador and is a haven of
tranquillity and comfort on the palm-fringed beach of
the Bahian coast. Catering to couples and families,
this Eco Resort has all you need to relax and recharge
your batteries either at the beginning or the end of a
holiday. You will be able to sample the varied Bahian
cuisine which is rich in spices and flavours drawn from
the African heritage of the region. The grounds of the
resort offer plenty of space to get away from other
guests but also cater for those with a bit more energy
to go snorkelling, or visit some of the ruined Dutch
fortresses nearby. The village of Praia do Forte is a 20
minute walk along the beach, and is home to a turtle
sanctuary. Turtles are bred here for release, and the
project aims to protect and educate in order to
preserve these rare creatures. It is also possible to hire
a car in the village in order to spend a day pootling up
and down the coast, visiting the laid back nearby
villages.
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Colonial
Brazil
Brazil has some of the finest examples of colonial
architecture anywhere in the Americas, and for those
with a real historical interest in the country this is an
ideal itinerary. Starting in the south in Rio and Paraty,
you will then travel by road to the colonial towns of
Minas Gerais, before flying to the northeast to Olinda,
before ending this busy trip on a beach.
Lençois
Beach resorts around Itacaré
and Porto Seguro
Txai Resort, Kiaroa Beach Resort, Art Jungle Lodge
and Toca do Marlin are four of our favourite places to
stay along this wonderful stretch of coast south of
Salvador in the state of Bahia. You will need to fly to
Itacaré or Porto Seguro, and then transfer to your
peaceful and lush resort by the sea. All of these
beautiful properties are designed to be in harmony
with the natural environment, and offer high standards
of accommodation and service.
LENÇOIS &
CHAPADA DIAMANTINA
A 45 minute flight or a seven hour bus journey
from Salvador will see you in the small and pretty
town of Lençois, ready to venture into the stunning
scenery of Chapada Diamantina National Park, a
paradise for outdoor enthusiasts. The town of
Lençois has its roots in mining, and whilst time and
the weather have faded its colonial legacy, it is a
lovely place to stay if you decide not to go camping
in Chapada Diamantina. This National Park is an
area of flat-topped mountains and forested valleys
dotted with beautiful waterfalls and hidden caves,
such as Poço Encantado, where the midday sun
shines through a natural window, turning the water
a magical electric blue. Whether you explore on
days trips from Lençois or have a full camping trip,
you will be left with memories of spectacular vistas,
orchids and hummingbirds, iridescent underground
lakes and refreshing dips in clear, crisp waters.
Day 1:
Day 2:
leisure to relax.
Day 3:
A full day tour of the city including a walk
in the historic downtown area where
there are many colonial churches.
Day 4:
around the city.
Day 5:
Travel by road along the Green Coast to
the colonial town of Paraty.
Day 6:
At leisure to explore the pretty cobbled
streets on foot.
Day 7:
Travel by road to the Fazenda Ponte Alta,
on an old coffee plantation, for an
overnight stay.
Day 8:
Continue on by road into the state of
Minas Gerais, today you will reach the
delightfully sleepy town of Tiradentes.
Day 9:
This afternoon you will drive to the town
of Ouro Preto.
Day 10:
A full day walking tour of this fascinating
colonial town.
Day 11:
Travel to the city of Belo Horizonte, fly to
Recife. Transfer to the neighbouring town
of Olinda.
Day 12:
A walking tour around the peaceful
streets of Olinda.
Day 13:
Travel by road to your resort near the
small fishing village of Porto de Galinhas.
Day 14-15:
Relaxation by the beach.
Day 16:
Transfer to Recife for your flight to the
UK.
Day 17:
Arrival in the UK.
Salvador
Green Coast, near Rio de Janeiro
tailor-made travel
Chapada Diamantina
BRAZIL
71
Recife
RECIFE AND OLINDA
Hotels in Olinda
Recife is the place to fly into for stays in its
neighbouring town of Olinda, and the wonderful
beaches to the south. Modern and busy, Recife
itself holds little of real interest to the Audley visitor,
but perched on a hilltop overlooking it is the
colonial gem of Olinda. Time has stood still in the
centre of old Olinda where the cobbled streets are
home to magnificent Baroque churches and
convents, pastel-coloured houses, mansions and
Baroque fountains. Dotted with shady plazas and
swaying palm trees, and steeped in history, it is not
a surprise that bohemian Olinda has been given
UNESCO World Cultural Heritage status. For a
beach stay after some time exploring here, the
coast south of Recife and Olinda is delightful and
has some good resorts and pousadas. The village of
Porto de Galinhas has a particularly good beach.
Framed with palms, it looks out to shallow coral
rock pools and a sea speckled with brightly
coloured darting fish.
The Pousada do Amparo is a sweet and chic pousada
in a converted colonial mansion with just 12 rooms, all
of which are charmingly decorated in a rustic style.
There is a cosy bar, pleasant gardens and a pool, and
it is the perfect base for relaxed explorations of
Olinda. We also like the Hotel Siete Colinas, which is
very welcoming and has a lovely pool area, and the
Pousada Quatro Cantos.
Siete Colinas, Olinda
Nannai Beach Resort
72
Beach resorts
near Porto de Galinhas
One of our favourite beach properties in Brazil is the
Nannai Beach Resort, a paradise of private bungalows
situated around many sprawling pools and only metres
away from the perfect beach. Another favourite is the
Summerville Beach resort, a large hotel with a myriad
of activities for those wishing to partake. Relaxing at
one of these resorts is a perfect way to end your trip.
FERNANDO DE NORONHA
The small archipelago of Fernando De Noronha,
partially formed by the tip of a submerged and
extinct volcano, is a delightful eco-tourist
destination and can be reached by air from either
Recife or Natal. Lying 350 kilometres off the coast
of mainland Brazil, this is a protected national
marine park that offers some of the finest diving in
the world. Diving and snorkelling around the
islands in waters with visibility of up to 50 metres
will reveal a dazzling array of marine life such as
turtles, sharks, stingrays, dolphins and
multicoloured tropical fish, and whilst on the land
birdwatchers will be enchanted by the variety of
species including pelican and red footed boobies.
Accommodation here is usually in simple
homestays, and visitor numbers are strictly limited
in order to preserve the pristine and unexploited
environment.
N ort h e a s t e r n
Brazil E xplored
The vibrant and beautiful northeastern area of Brazil is
relatively unexplored. This trip explores the area
between Recife and Natal, a short and adventurous
trip that encompasses colonial towns, golden beaches
and an intoxicating culture. It is perfect for a visitor
who has already explored the south of the country,
and also ideal for those who fancy seeing a different
side to the country.
Olinda
NATAL AND AROUND
The region between Olinda and the city of Natal is
enchanting and well worth exploring by road.
Travelling in this manner allows you to explore the
Atlantic rainforest and the inland area of Cariri,
where you can stay on a ranch amongst lakes and
granite hills. You then continue along the fine
coast, possibly sighting dolphins playing in the
many sandy coves en route. There are sophisticated
resorts and simple pousadas scattered between the
coastal fishing villages, we like the lovely Toca da
Coruja and the Ponta do Madeiro. Alternatively you
can fly to Natal, which is a good base from which
to explore the main attraction of this area - the
beaches and sand dunes which act as a massive
adventure playground for the fun-seeking
individual. For accommodation in Natal we like the
Manary Praia Hotel.
Day 1:
Fly from the UK to Recife, via Lisbon.
Evening arrival. Transfer to Olinda.
Day 2:
A walking tour of the colonial town of
Olinda.
Day 3:
Travel from Olinda to the Charles Darwin
Ecological Refuge situated in the Atlantic
Rainforest, continue on the Manatee
Research Centre and then inland to stay
at a fazenda (ranch).
Day 4:
Explore the surrounding countryside.
Day 5:
Further explore the region including a
local sugar mill, and continue to Pipa,
where you will stay by the beach.
Days 6:
Visit Pipa Ecological Sanctuary, maybe
spotting marine turtles.
Day 7:
Travel to the city of Natal, afternoon at
leisure.
Day 8:
Take a buggy tour along the northern
coast of Natal, in the afternoon take a
boat to the reefs of Maracajaú, where
you snorkel amongst the colourful fish.
BRASILIA
Brasília rose from the unpopulated plains of
central Brazil in the shape of a soaring bird or
plane, and took the title of capital city from Rio de
Janeiro in 1960. Designed and built in under five
years, Brasília today is a late 1950’s vision of the
future in concrete, a retro testament to Brazilian
architecture (in particular to the genius of Oscar
Niemayer) and urban planning. Sights like the
Metropolitan Cathedral with its radiant stained
glass interior (so designed because the architect
believed dark interiors to be too redolent of sin)
and angels hanging from the ceiling, and the
Square of Three Powers with its Congress, Judicial
and Presidential buildings, are well worth the time
to explore. Whether you end up loving it or hating
it, the city makes for a fascinating 24 hour
stopover.
Day 9:
At leisure in Natal.
Day 10:
Transfer to the airport for your flight to
the UK, via Lisbon.
Day 11:
Arrival in the UK.
tailor-made travel
Brasília
BRAZIL
73
Alligators, Pantanal
THE PANTANAL
For wildlife viewing, there are few better viewing
places in the world than the Pantanal between April
and September. The animals and birds here are
similar to those found in the nearby Amazon basin,
but they are much easier to spot due to the lack of
dense jungle. The Pantanal is an enormous area of
seasonally flooded savannah lowlands and
wetlands, which creates a fertile environment of
lakes, streams and ponds; hyacinths and giant
water lilies rest on the lake surfaces, whilst
underneath anacondas slither around the fish that
are darting away from the feet of jabiru storks. Lazy
capybara and caiman sun themselves on the banks
and monkeys chatter and swing from tree to tree,
past the toucans, macaws and parrots as they fan
their iridescent feathers. Other animals to which
this vast area is home include anteaters, armadillos,
otters, marmosets and even jaguar and puma. Your
stay here will be based in one of the fazenda-style
lodges, such as the Caiman Ecological Refuge and
Fazenda San Francisco in the south or Pousada do
Rio Mutum in the north. We also recommend
Cristalina Lodge, which is on the cusp of the
Pantanal and the Amazon rainforest in the far north
and is excellent for birders and butterfly enthusiasts.
All these lodges have excellent guides to take you
out on the various excursions which include jeep
safaris during the day and the night, canoe trips
and horse riding.
Caiman Ecological Refuge,
Pantanal
A working ranch and ecological preserve, the four
lodges of the Caiman Ecological Refuge offer
comfortable accommodation in the heart of the
southern Pantanal. Accessed through flights to the
town of Campo Grande followed by a four hour jeep
trip, this lodge makes for an astounding stay, as their
guides are excellent and they have excellent ecological
awareness and protection programmes.
Hyacinth macaws
74
MANAUS
From whichever direction your plane approaches
Manaus, you will watch in awe as you pass over
the enormous expanse of green wilderness before
reaching your destination, this steamy port in the
middle of the jungle. The city is a product of the
19th century rubber boom, but today is the
commercial hub of the entire Amazon region. The
most incongruous site is perhaps the city’s Opera
House, a grand, marble-halled, chandelier-bedecked
building that still puts on fine shows in the heart of
the Amazon. The hectic port area is an atmospheric
blur of sailors, passengers and vendors, as goods
and people arrive and depart. This is where you
begin your trip into the Amazon, be it to stay at a
lodge or take a river cruise.
Manaus
Southern Brazil
E xplored
From the bustling city of Rio de Janeiro to the peaceful
colonial village of Paraty, from the teeming wildlife of
the Pantanal to the thundering waterfalls of Iguaçu,
this tour encompasses the main areas of interest and
natural beauty in the southern area of Brazil. By
exploring just a small part of this huge country, you will
minimise the time spent flying, meaning more time to
appreciate the sights.
Day 1:
Day 2:
leisure to relax.
Day 3:
A full day tour of the vibrant city of Rio.
Day 4:
around the city, one option is to take a
tandem hang-glide off Pedro Bonito to
land on the beach below.
Day 5:
Fly to Campo Grande, transfer to your
lodge in the Pantanal.
Day 6-7:
Wildlife excursions in the Pantanal by
jeep, horse-back and on foot.
Day 8:
Return to Campo Grande and fly to
Iguaçu Falls. An afternoon jeep and boat
safari to the base of the falls.
Day 9:
A walking tour of the Brazilian and
Argentinian sides of the falls.
Day 10:
Fly back to Rio, transfer to Paraty.
Day 11:
A schooner cruise around the islands off
the coast of Paraty.
Day 12:
around Paraty.
Day 13:
Transfer back to Rio for your flight to the
UK.
Day 14:
Arrival in the UK.
Amazon sunset
THE AMAZON RAINFOREST
The two rivers that are adjacent to Manaus, the Rio
Solimões and the Rio Negro, merge to form what
we know as the mighty Amazon River, which even
here, 1600 kilometres from the Atlantic, is ten
kilometres wide. Their meeting, however, is a little
unusual; the yellow waters of the Solimões run
alongside the black waters of the Negro for six
kilometres before converging. This is one of the first
sights you will see as you head out of Manaus and
into the rainforest, entering a world that from the
air seems totally impenetrable. This immense
network of vegetation, waterways and lakes is
home to a tenth of the world’s plant and animal
species, with many more yet undiscovered. The
area’s sheer vastness means that whilst a stay here
in one of the excellent lodges such as the Amazon
Village or the Amazon Eco-Park will be a fascinating
experience, you are unlikely to see much in the way
of animal life, as most of the animals have taken
themselves off to parts where visitors don’t go.
However, it is still enjoyable to spend days walking
with biologist guides and taking boat trips along
the peaceful rivers. For those with a real interest in
seeing wildlife, rather than those who would just
like to experience the jungle, we recommend
visiting the Amazon region of Manu in Peru.
Amazon Village
Located 30 kilometres from Manaus is the Amazon
Village, an excellent base for a comprehensive and
interesting jungle adventure. Set on the bank of
one of the Amazon’s innumerable tributaries,
it has 32 wooden bungalows built amongst the
trees, each with twin beds and private bathroom
facilities. The larger central building houses the
reception, restaurant facilities and leisure area.
Knowledgeable guides will take you out on daily
excursions.
Amazon Cruises
Several tourist boats depart the docks at Manaus
for interesting trips along the Amazon and her
many tributaries. Ranging in duration from a couple
of nights cruising in the local area, to an eleven
night trip up to Iquitos in Peru, these cruises are a
romantic way to see the Amazon. The Amazon
Clipper cruises are recommended and each of their
three boats carry between eight and 20 passengers on
relaxed three night cruises. Enjoy a seat on the shady
deck as you glide down the Amazon River with the
jungle sounds all around you.
tailor-made travel
Amazon accommodation
BRAZIL
75
Venezuela
Vast and little-visited, Venezuela
stretches from the snow-capped Andes
of the west down to the vast jungles of
the Orinoco Delta, from the flat-topped
‘Lost World’ mountains of the south to
palm-fringed beaches along its
Caribbean coast. The north of the
76
country is where the majority of the
population lives, most of the rest of the
country sees nature in charge.
Venezuela has South America’s largest
lake, third-largest river, the world’s
highest waterfall and the world’s
longest snake. Overlaying this magical
land are the Venezuelans themselves: a
vibrant, exciting people, warm and
friendly, unused to visitors but delighted
by the attention. This country of beauty
queens and beautiful beaches, tabletop
mountains and remote jungle tribes,
never fails to enchant.
Maracaibo
AUDLEY IN VENEZUELA
CLIMATE
Few tourists visit Venezuela - that is a key part of its
appeal - but this does make travel occasionally
challenging. English is rarely spoken, distances are
often great, and many parts of the country have
few hotels of any sort. For this reason it is necessary
to plan your trip well, and well in advance. Our
representatives know the country intimately, and
can plan an itinerary that will enable you to see the
parts of the country that best match your interests
in the maximum comfort. At the time of going to
press the political situation in Venezuela is
somewhat volatile, and even though tourist areas
are rarely affected, up-to-date information is
certainly vital. Our local representatives keep
abreast of current developments and will advise of
any foreseeable developments. Visas are required to
visit Venezuela.
Venezuela’s climate is tropical, with wet and dry
seasons rather than hot and cold. The dry season in
Caracas is from December to April, with January
and February the coolest months, and the hottest
months being July and August. The Caribbean
coast is generally dry all year round. In the Gran
Sabana, the dry season is November to May, but
the best time to visit this area (which includes Angel
Falls) is just after the rains, when the rivers are full
and the humidity is not yet too high. In the Andes,
the dry season is October to May, with the rains
generally beginning in June, although the weather
in the mountains can of course be unpredictable
and change during the course of one day.
Canaima lagoon
Caracas
The Llanos
VENEZUELA
77
The Llanos
CARACAS AND
CARIBBEAN COAST
Flanked by the wooded peaks of the Avila National
Park lies the city of Caracas, Venezuela’s capital and
gateway to the country. Though often overlooked,
Caracas itself has plenty to entice the visitor.
A predominantly modern city which became
prosperous during the oil boom of the 1960s,
Caracas boasts some arresting architecture. The
colonial influence is also apparent and the city
remembers its most famous son, Simón Bolívar, in
the main Plaza Bolívar. Four hours by road west
from the city, the lively colonial town of Choroní is
nestled between the bird-watching paradise of
Henri Pittier National Park and some lush Caribbean
beaches, and an ideal base for exploring the area.
Morrocoy National Marine Park is further west and
takes in an area of islands, islets and cays, draped in
mangrove swamps with lots of marine birds.
Maracaibo is a steamy port city with some
interesting architecture, and the nearby Laguna
Sinamaica has many colourful houses on stilts
dotted through its waters. East of Caracas is the
sublime Mochima National Park, a beautiful area of
white sand beaches fringed with palm trees and
good diving opportunities.
78
LOS ROQUES
MERIDA
The Caribbean’s only coral archipelago and largest
marine national park, the tranquil islands of Los
Roques are excellent for diving, snorkelling, sailing
and windsurfing. Accessible by a 30-minute flight
from Caracas, the white sands and turquoise seas
make a relaxing place to start or end your trip.
El Gran Roque is the main island, and this is where
you will stay in a charming whitewashed guest
house or posada.
Surrounded by Venezuela’s highest snow-capped
peaks, the lively university town of Mérida is at the
centre of Venezuela’s Andean region. It is a pleasant
city with a gentle, friendly atmosphere, steep
streets and some enchanting colonial buildings.
The surrounding countryside is dotted with small,
traditional villages where life still proceeds at the
gradual pace of a climbing donkey, eking a living
from the sheer mountain slopes, as well as glacial
lakes, highland moors and tropical forest. For
spectacular views of the northern Andes the world’s
longest – and highest – cable-car reaches up from
the city to high mountain trails in crystal-clear air.
PARÍA PENINSULA
Stretching out towards Trinidad and Tobago and
reachable by road from Caracas, the Paría Peninsula
is an unspoilt and lush area of palm forested hills
that tumble down to long, sheltered golden
beaches. Calm, clear and warm seas are perfect for
snorkelling, while accommodation is in simple
posadas and guesthouses.
Classic
Venezuela
Merely scratching the surface of such a vast and
vibrant country, this tour nevertheless introduces the
best of Venezuela, in a gentle manner. From the
colonial town of Mérida set in the Andes, to the
wildlife haven of the Llanos, from the world’s highest
waterfall in the mysterious Gran Sabana and finally to
some picture-perfect beaches of the Caribbean.
Day 1:
Fly to Caracas.
Day 2:
Take a short flight to the Andean town of
Mérida, explore the colonial centre.
Day 3:
Take a ride on the world’s longest and
highest cable car, which stretches for
eight miles and up to 4,765 metres.
Day 4:
Take a trip out into the Andean towns
and villages that surround Mérida.
Day 5:
Fly to the Llanos and transfer to a lodge
from where you will make your
excursions out into the savannah for
wildlife spotting.
Day 6-7:
In the Llanos.
Day 8:
Fly to Canaima, a tourist village on the
edge of a lagoon and your base for your
explorations of the ‘Lost World’
mountains of the Gran Sabana and Angel
Falls.
Day 9:
Take a scenic flight over Angel Falls
(weather permitting).
Day 10:
Return to Caracas and fly onto Los
Roques, an archipelago of coral islands in
the Caribbean.
Day 11-12:
Relaxing on the beach.
Day 13:
Fly back to Caracas and on to the UK.
Day 14:
Arrive in the UK.
Canaima National Park
THE LLANOS
A marvellous place for wildlife spotting, the Llanos
is a vast seasonally flooded savannah that spreads
across Venezuela’s heartland towards the
Colombian border, rivalling Brazil’s Pantanal for
biodiversity but with far fewer visitors. Flat and
fertile, five national parks protect wildlife that
ranges from anteaters to anacondas, as well as a
spectacular variety of birds, monkeys, big cats, river
dolphins, caiman and capybara.
GRAN SABANA
AND ANGEL FALLS
Inspiration for Sir Arthur Conan Doyle’s famous
‘The Lost World’, the great flat-topped mountains
of the Gran Sabana lie amongst nearly 12,000
square miles of protected national park, and it is
easy to imagine dinosaurs surviving, cut off by
sheer cliffs on each side, in their high mountain
refuges. Magnificent and surreal, the tops of these
sheer mountains have completely different
ecosystems to their base, such is their size. The
highest, Mount Roraima, projects a flat top of 26
square miles high above the surrounding
countryside and can be climbed in a strenuous
eight-day trek. It says much about this region’s
remoteness that the world’s highest waterfall was
only found in the 1930’s, by American pilot Jimmy
Angel who crash-landed here when looking for
gold. At their best in the wet season, the falls
cascade off the edge of a table mountain and
thunder down into the tropical rainforest, feeding a
bird-filled lagoon and Canaima National Park. Even
now there is no land access: the Angel Falls can be
reached only by boat or by a spectacular lightaircraft flight.
THE ORINOCO
Angel Falls
Rivalling the biodiversity of the Amazon and
sustaining the region’s indigenous people, the great
Orinoco River, from rainforest to delta, threads
through Venezuela and spills out into the Atlantic
through a vast, jungled delta. Far less known – and
less visited – than its big sister to the south, the
Orinoco offers a once-in-a-lifetime chance to
explore a disappearing ecosystem, this is
exploration in its finest sense. Expeditions start at
the pretty riverside town of Ciudad Bolívar or the
remote port Puerto Ayachuco, but from then
transport is by canoe and accommodation in a tent
or traditional thatched hut.
Caracas
tailor-made travel
Laguna Sinamaica
VENEZUELA
79
Guyana
Squeezed in between Venezuela, Brazil
and Suriname on South America’s
Caribbean coast, the small Englishspeaking country of Guyana is a delight
for the intrepid traveller and those who
want to visit a genuinely untouched
80
wilderness. To make a visit here is
really to take a step into uncharted
territory as travellers currently number
less than 2,000 a year. Yet there are a
myriad of sights to see, from virgin
rainforest to rolling savannah,
spectacular birdlife and mammals that
include giant river otters and jaguar,
crashing waterfalls and indigenous
villages. Guyana is pristine, unspoilt
and will provide a real adventure.
HIGHLIGHTS
OF GUYANA
The capital of Georgetown will usually be the place
to start and end your trip. It is the only settlement
of size in the country and is a relaxed, tropical place
with picturesque areas of white wooden 19th
century houses on stilts. Kaieteur Falls are
breathtaking, with waters dropping a height five
times that of Niagara. Working ranches can be
visited, where as well as joining the barefoot
cowboys you can go wildlife spotting and have a
good chance of seeing caiman, harpy eagles and
giant river otters. Iwokrama, in the central
rainforest, is an area dedicated to the study of
conservation and sustainable rainforest
development, and offers the chance of sighting the
elusive jaguar. Other highlights include a stay at a
comfortable rainforest lodge to birdwatch, swim,
hike or simply relax in a hammock, and spending
time at the Karanambu Ranch which is renowned
for the work of Diane McTurk in rehabilitating
orphaned otters.
AUDLEY IN GUYANA
Audley and our partners in Guyana take particular
care to promote ecologically sensitive tourism in this
unspoilt environment. Your trip, which will have
been planned according to your preferences for
wildlife spotting, adventure and trekking, or just a
general overview of the country, will make use of
the range of comfortable lodges which are dotted
throughout the country by waterfalls and rivers, in
the rainforest and on the open savannah. Travel will
be by road, boat or internal flight, and guides will
provide a wealth of knowledge about the
surroundings.
Crocodile
Guyana
Discovered
The itinerary below is designed to show you the type of
trip we can organise. This is a relatively comfortable
tour using lodges of a good standard, but we can also
provide tours with a more adventurous angle, such as
trekking and camping, and also trips designed for real
wildlife enthusiasts that include turtle nesting sites.
Day 1:
Fly from the UK to Georgetown via the
Caribbean.
Day 2:
Travel by 4WD into the rainforest
conservation area of the Iwokrama
International Centre. Explore the trails
around the Field Station.
Day 3:
Take a boat trip to Turtle Mountain, and
climb the mountain for great views over
the forest canopy.
Day 4:
Go jaguar spotting with your guide, and
walk along the Iwokrama Canopy
Walkway. In the afternoon you will travel
to the indigenous village of Surama.
Day 5:
Take a wildlife spotting trip along the
Burro Burro River. Continue to Rock
View Lodge.
Day 6:
Take a walk in the foothills of the
Pakaraima Mountains.
Day 7:
Travel by boat down the Rupununi River
to Karanambu Ranch.
Day 8:
Birdwatching and giant river otter
spotting near the lodge.
Day 9:
Take a flight back to Georgetown, have a
tour of the city.
Day 10:
Take a flight to Kaieteur and Orinduik
Falls, then travel to the Shanklands
Rainforest Resort.
Day 11-13:
Relaxing in the rainforest.
Day 14:
Travel by motorboat along the Essequibo
River to its mouth, then by road to
Georgetown for your flight to the UK.
Day 15:
Arrive in the UK.
CLIMATE
Guyana’s climate is equatorial: it is hot but pleasant
for most of the year. Temperatures average
between 24° to 31° Celsius. There are two wet
seasons during May and June, and December and
January.
Jaguar cub
Sloth
tailor-made travel
Tree frog
GUYANA
81
Dutch Antilles
The three islands forming the Dutch
Antilles lie in the warm Caribbean sea
close to the coast of Venezuela. Aruba,
Bonaire and Curaçao offer year round
82
sunshine and fine beaches, mixed with a
charm that comes from their melting
pot heritage of indigenous inhabitants,
Dutch colonialists and African slaves.
Out of the hurricane belt, these islands
make a perfect stop for a relaxing few
days following a busy trip in South
America.
AUDLEY IN
THE DUTCH ANTILLES
Depending on the flight schedules of KLM, we can
organise an island stay either before or after your
trip to Peru or Ecuador. At the time of going to
press, the island used as a touchdown by the
planes on their way to and from Amsterdam is
Bonaire, so we have included details of hotels and
activities available on this island. Should the
schedules change, however, we can recommend
hotels and excursions available on the largest and
most visited island, Aruba, and Curaçao, which
perhaps has the most colonial charm.
Willemstad, Curaçao
Bonaire
Harbour Village Beach Resort, Bonaire
BONAIRE
Bonaire’s enviable geographical position just north
of equator and outside of the hurricane belt
guarantees a consistently warm climate with
temperatures averaging 28°C year round: there is
little rainfall and humidity is low. As well as a great
place to relax on a beach and do nothing, Bonaire
is a fine destination for scuba diving or snorkelling.
The clear waters off the island’s coast have been
declared a marine park, preserving the reefs’
pristine condition, and colourful marine life is
abundant. We can pre-book dive trips for you, or
there are numerous dive centres on the island
where you can discuss your requirements with fullyqualified staff.
Harbour Village
Beach Resort
Named as “one of the 12 best seaside resorts in the
world”, Harbour Village balances an air of exclusivity
with a relaxed and laidback feel typical of the
Caribbean. We use the 29 elegantly decorated rooms
within Dutch-Caribbean style villas, which are set in
beautiful, tropical gardens just steps away from the
beach. The hotel has its own white coralline beach
which slopes gently into the sea and lined with palm
trees, under which you could lounge happily for hours,
perhaps taking the occasional dip or venturing out for
a snorkel. There is a small swimming pool, a
restaurant overlooking the sea, a gym and spa as well
as a dive shop for hiring equipment and arranging
dives.
Plaza Resort, Bonaire
Plaza Resort Bonaire
The Plaza Resort is tastefully designed over an
extensive area between a private marina and a sandy
beach. It has, as its name suggests and with 200
rooms to offer, a resort feel to it. Nevertheless, given
the 12 acres of beautiful gardens and some 300,000
tropical plants and trees in which it is set, it does not
feel crowded in any way. The location of the resort,
within 15 minutes walk of Kralendijk, the main town
on the island, means there is plenty of opportunity to
explore the island’s restaurants, though the hotel has
three of its own and a bar on the beach. The rooms
and villas are extremely spacious and you have a
choice of laguna or ocean view. The beautiful beach is
complemented by a swimming pool and the full variety
of resort activities are on offer.
DUTCH ANTILLES
83
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south america - Audley Travel

Transcription

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