Packs 1-10

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Assembly Guide Part 1
Packs 1-10
1
Assembly Guide Part 1
Packs 1-10
Contents
HMS Victory, Admiral Nelson and the Battle of Trafalgar Build it your way
Pack 1
Pack 2 Pack 3
Pack 4
Pack 5
Pack 6
Pack 7 Pack 8
Pack 9
Pack 10
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8
13
17
21
29
31
33
42
44
45
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Photo credits All photographs copyright
© Continuo Creative with special thanks to
the Royal Navy and the crew of HMS Victory.
Visit our website www.model-space.com
Editorial and design by Continuo Creative, 39-41 North Road, London N7 9DP
All rights reserved © 2012 De Agostini UK Ltd, Battersea Studios 2, 82 Silverthorne Road, London SW8 3HE
NOT SUITABLE FOR CHILDREN UNDER THE AGE OF 14. THIS PRODUCT IS NOT A TOY AND IS NOT DESIGNED OR INTENDED FOR USE IN PLAY. items may vary from those shown.
HMS Victory,
Admiral Nelson and the
Battle of Trafalgar
HMS (Her Majesty’s Ship) Victory is the most famous warship from the Age of Sail,
and the death of her commander, Admiral Nelson, on board at the Battle of Trafalgar
became one of the key moments in the history of naval warfare.
HMS Victory, which is now in dry
dock at Portsmouth Historic Dockyard
in England, is the only surviving
line-of-battle ship that dates back to
the Napoleonic and French
Revolutionary Wars. She is the also the
oldest commissioned warship in the
world, and is still crewed by officers
and men of the British Royal Navy.
A First Rate warship
Victory was classed a First Rate ship of
the line. This meant she was a warship
that carried at least 100 guns. Her
heavy armament made her one of the
most powerful warships of the time
and one of only a small number of
First Raters in the British Navy. She
measured 227 ft 6 in long with a beam
(width) of 51 ft 10 in. She carried a
maximum of 37 sails, whose total area
was the same size as a football field,
giving her a maximum speed of around
11 knots. Victory’s full crew was 850,
although she only carried 820 at the
time of her most famous action – the
Battle of Trafalgar.
The new vessel’s construction began
at Chatham Dockyard, Kent on July
23, 1759. Britain was fighting the
Seven Years’ War against the French,
and the new First Rater was intended
to bring the fleet up to strength. In
1760, it was announced that she would
be called Victory. However, before the
Since 1922, Victory has been in dry dock
in Portsmouth. She is now the flagship
for the Commander-in-Chief Naval Home
Command as well as a popular museum
of the Georgian navy.
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Victory was almost entirely built of oak.
Many of her timbers were massive,
weighing many hundredweight, and her
hull was several feet thick.
warship was complete, the Treaty of
Paris ended the war, work slowed
down, and she was not launched until
May 7, 1765.
Building Victory was a massive
undertaking. Around 6,000 trees went
into her construction and her total cost
was £63,176 (equivalent to over $78
million now). This was a massive
investment, but as Victory was no
longer needed for immediate service,
she was assigned to the reserve fleet
after sea trials. The massive wooden
hull remained moored in the Medway
River, roofed over and with bare masts
for 13 years, until Britain went into
battle against the American colonists in
the Revolutionary War. Victory was
finally commissioned as the flagship of
Admiral Augustus Keppel and saw
action in July 1778 during the
The warship was built between 1759 and
1765 at the former Royal Dockyard on the
banks of the Medway River at Chatham,
which now houses exhibitions relating to
the construction of warships of her era.
4
Grim reminders of 18th-century warfare on
board Victory include surgical tools used in
amputations and for extracting bullets.
Revolutionary War, fighting the
American colonists and their French
and Spanish. Victory went on to sail as
the flagship to nine admirals, of whom
the most famous, Admiral Lord
Horatio Nelson, was the eighth.
Nelson’s last battle
When Victory became his flagship in
1803, Admiral Nelson was already a
national hero following a string of
victories in Britain’s wars against the
French and their European allies.
The Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte,
who dreamed of a Europe under
French control, fought a long and
bloody series of wars that lasted from
1793 until his final defeat at the Battle
of Waterloo in 1815. For most of this
time, the French army dominated
Europe, while Britain, the world’s
greatest naval power, controlled the
seas. A peace in 1802 only lasted
briefly, and by 1805 Britain was under
serious threat. Napoleon had
strengthened his position on the
Continent and could concentrate on
attacking Britain. He gathered a huge
invasion force near the ports of
Boulogne and Dunkirk, with over
2,000 boats to transport men and
horses to southern England.
The flotilla was ready on July 6, 1805,
but Napoleon’s plans could only
succeed if the ships of his own navy
and their Spanish allies could draw off
or defeat the Royal Navy, so that the
invasion barges could sail unopposed.
The Royal Navy concentrated its
warships in the Channel and around
the French ports, so the Emperor
ordered his fleet to attack British
colonies and settlements overseas,
hoping that the Royal Navy would be
sent to protect them. As part of the
French plan, Admiral Villeneuve’s
Mediterranean fleet joined with a
The Admiral’s cabin has been
restored to look as it did on
the eve of battle in 1805.
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Victory carries a full complement of guns
on each of her three gun decks.
The ship’s wheel is at the rear of the
quarterdeck, which was the
command center of the ship.
Spanish fleet at the port of Cadiz, on
the southwest coast of Spain. There,
they were blockaded by a British fleet
under Nelson’s command. Despite
long and complicated maneuvers, the
French failed to gain the upper hand.
The Battle of Trafalgar
The Franco-Spanish fleet finally left
Cadiz on October 20, 1805. On the
next day, Nelson gave the order to
engage the much larger enemy force off
Cape Trafalgar, some 27 miles out to
sea. Nelson commanded 27 ships of
the Royal Navy, carrying 17,000 men.
The combined French and Spanish
fleet included 33 ships, many of which
were larger than the British ships,
crewed by some 30,000 men.
Nelson’s tactics were bold, brave and
completely unconventional. His plan
to split the opposition’s forces meant
sailing straight toward the enemy
under fire, unable to return a shot until
the moment they engaged.
As always, Nelson took his place in
the thick of the action. He was
directing operations on Victory’s
quarterdeck when he was struck down
by a musket ball fired by a French
marksman. He was taken below but
there was nothing that the ship’s
surgeon could do. The injury was fatal
but before England’s greatest naval
hero died on board Victory, he was
brought the news that he had won a
devastating victory. Despite the carnage
on board, not a single British ship was
lost, but 18 of the enemy ships were
A brass plaque on the planks of the
quarter deck shows where the
admiral was struck by a musket ball
fired by a French marksman.
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captured or destroyed and only 11 of
the survivors were able to limp back to
safety in the harbor of Cadiz. Nelson
and Victory had given Britain control
of the seas for decades to come.
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Among the historical items displayed on
the ship today are portraits of Admiral
Nelson and his lover Emma Hamilton.
7
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Build it your way
Before you start, choose whether to assemble your model with a natural finish
that shows off your handiwork, or to paint it to make it as authentic a replica
as possible of Victory at the time of the Battle of Trafalgar.
W
ith each shipment, you’ll receive more packs of parts to be
used to put together your model of HMS
Victory. These include precision laser-cut
wooden components to build the hull, solid hardwood for the
planking and masts, die-cast, turned and etched metal
components for the deck fittings, guns and other equipment, cord for
the rigging, and cotton cloth for the sails.
Although the parts go together in the same way, you
have a choice of a natural wood model or a
painted finish (see below). As
some of the parts need to be
painted as you go, choose your
paint finish before you start.
Your model is made from
materials that include
hardwood, brass and cast
white metal. You can either paint
these or allow the natural colors to show.
Option 1: Natural finish
Option 2: Paint finish
Many marine modelers prefer to display the results of their
handiwork by leaving the materials in their natural state, so
that the craftsmanship and skill can be fully appreciated.
The instructions that you’ll receive pack by pack show you
how to put the model together this way. You simply need
to ensure that the parts remain clean and free from excess
glue or other marks. However, some of the sub-assemblies
will need to be varnished or lacquered to protect them
from dirt or tarnishing. In some cases, where later assembly
will make parts inaccessible, this finishing process needs to
be carried out as you go.
Most of Victory was painted to prevent decay, so even if the
material was similar to the model, it was a different color.
For example, the hull was painted with alternating stripes
of black and ochre; the area below the waterline was
plated with copper; and iron parts were painted black to
protect them from corrosion. If you want to finish your
model like this, you need to decide well before the model
nears completion. Some parts have to be painted as you
go because they will become impossible to reach. Where
this applies, a panel in that set of assembly instructions
explains how to finish the parts.
8
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As well as deciding whether to paint the
model, or leave it natural, there are a few
other choices to make before you assemble
the framework and the planking. Most
importantly, you need to decide:
• whether to construct the optional cutaway
(see below)
• whether to apply a “copper” finish to
simulate the sheathing applied below the
waterline (see pages 10-12).
Your choice of options will affect the way
you build the model. Let’s start by looking
at the building sequence, stage by stage:
straight and help to make it rigid.
Adding a cutaway: If you want to add
the optional cutaway shown below, you will
need to alter the framework to allow you to
leave the side of the ship open to install the
guns and gunners at a later stage. This will
be fully explained in the step-by-step
instructions. If you don’t want to add a
cutaway to your hull, you can use the extra
guns and gunners to build a miniature
diorama showing life below decks. Once
again, the step-by-step instructions will
show you what’s involved.
Stage 1: The framework
Stage 2: Planking
In this stage, you’ll assemble the framework
over which Victory’s planking is applied.
You’ll glue these parts together with the
decks, which will keep the whole structure
Once the hull framework is complete, you
can cover it with planks, just like the real
Victory. The first step is to smooth off and
shape the frames (a process known as
“fairing”) so that the planks will curve
smoothly over them, rather than going in a
series of steps. Then you bend the planks
and glue and pin them in place until the
whole hull is complete.
Adding a cutaway: If you decided to
add a cutaway, you’ll omit the planking
between some of the ribs at this stage.
Stage 3: Hull fittings
The first step in fitting out the hull is to cut
the dozens of gun ports that pierce both
sides of the planking. With that done, each
of the ports can be lined with strips of
wood. Then you add the curved strakes and
wales – strips of wood that reinforce and
protect both sides of the hull. Various
minor deck and hull fittings are added at
this stage. If you are painting the hull, some
The Cutaway
the end of construction (Stage 6). If you prefer to leave the
hull intact and not add the cutaway, you can use the extra
guns and crew to create a miniature diorama depicting the
work going on below decks, which you can display
alongside your completed model of HMS Victory.
The cutaway is created by omitting parts of the hull
framework and planking during Stages 2 and 3 to leave
sections of the open gun decks on display. The guns and
gunners you need to create the scene are supplied later on
in the series, as they are not placed inside the model until
Part of the open lower
gun deck of Victory
(above), showing a
32-pounder projecting
from the gun port.
The cutaway (left)
leaves short sections of
the middle and lower
gun decks open, so you
can see the guns and
their crews inside.
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Part of the array of
guns on Victory’s
three gun decks,
mirroring the
same area of the
model on the left.
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Victory’s Paint Finish
Starting at the upper edge of the copper applied below the
waterline (see Adding Copper Sheathing on pages 11 and
12), Victory’s sides were painted in a dull matte black divided
with three broad bands of dull matte yellow ochre. The
bands of color do not follow the lines of the wales
(reinforcing bands of planking) or the lines of the gun ports.
They are not the same width throughout their length, but
become narrower toward the bows and stern of the ship.
It’s essential to mark and paint these stripes at the stage
when the hull and its main fittings are complete but before
you add delicate items of deck equipment that make it
impossible to turn the hull upside-down. Many parts of the
hull will also become completely inaccessible when you add
the rigging – especially the external shrouds that come
down from the masts and over the sides of the ship, secured
by deadeyes and lanyards to external “channels” projecting
from the hull.
You’ll need to paint various other items as they are added
to the hull at a later stage. These include the gun port lids
and other external fittings. You may also need to add
finishing touches to the main hull. Full painting information
will be included at the points when it is needed.
The complex rigging that covers Victory’s sides
shows why you have to paint some areas
before completing the assembly of the model.
Victory as she appears at Portsmouth today. After extensive restoration, the great
warship appears much as she did at the time of the Battle of Trafalgar, with a
prominent paint finish of black and yellow ochre.
of the more delicate items need to be left
until after you have done so, and can be
painted individually as you go.
Painting the ship: If you decided to
paint the hull, you need to apply the basic
stripes of black and yellow at this stage (see
Victory’s paint finish, above).
Adding copper sheathing: If you
decide to add the copper bottom, you also
need to do this now (see Adding Copper
Sheathing, on pages 11 and 12, for the
various options).
Stage 4: Masts and spars
Victory’s three masts, bowsprit and the
yards that carry the sails are made from
Finishing details, such as gun port lids, are
added toward the end of the build, so they
have to be painted at a much later stage.
separate sections that you shape and join
following full-size plans supplied with the
packs of parts.
Painting the ship: If you decide on a
painted finish, you need to paint the masts
and spars as you go, because they will
become inaccessible later on. If you opted
for a natural finish, you can simply varnish
all the parts to protect them.
Stage 5: Rigging and sails
The completed masts can now be installed
in the hull, adding the standing rigging
lines as you go. The yards, sails and rigging
lines are then added in sequence.
Painting the ship: You need to add
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some finishing touches as you go, since
some areas are inaccessible once the masts,
spars and sails are in place. (If you prefer,
you can omit the sails, leaving the ship
with bare spars, as Victory appears today)
Stage 6: Finishing touches
Final details include the last of the rigging
lines plus some external fittings, including
gun port lids, anchors, davits and flags.
Painting the ship: If you choose a
painted finish, you need to add a few
finishing touches at this stage.
Adding a cutaway: If you decide
to include the cutaway, you will install the
guns and gun crews at this stage.
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Adding Copper Sheathing
In 1780, the part of Victory’s hull that lay
below the waterline was covered with a
thin copper sheathing to provide
protection against the teredo
shipworm, which caused severe
damage to wooden ships by boring into
their timbers. Victory’s oak hull was
covered with 3,923 pieces of copper
sheet, each measuring 4 ft x 14 in.
These sheets were laid in an
overlapping pattern, similar to
brickwork, and nailed in place.
In service, the copper rapidly tarnished
and collected marine growths, so it
naturally took on the dark green
mottled appearance known as verdigris,
rather than appearing as shiny metal.
There are four main options for
modeling this feature:
1. Wooden “copper” finish
If you choose to leave your model in
natural wood, you may prefer not to
simulate the copper at all. An
alternative is to use a wood stain to
darken the planking on the lower part
of the hull to give the impression that
the area was covered in copper.
2. Painted finish
The cheapest and easiest way of
simulating the sheathing is to use
paint. If you choose this option, you
need to apply it after the hull is
completely planked but before you
start to add the delicate deck fittings
during Stage 3. This is because you will
need to turn the hull upside-down in
order to fill and sand it smooth, then
mark the waterline all round, mask off
the area above and apply the copper
paint.
You have two choices for a painted
finish. You can apply a bright copper,
which will look very impressive but
doesn’t represent Victory as she
appeared in service. Alternatively, it’s
possible to simulate verdigris very
convincingly. You can even buy special
paint designed for an “antiqued” effect.
Paint will naturally produce a smooth
finish rather than the “tiled” effect
produced by nailing on copper plates.
However, at the 1:84 scale of your
model, the tiles are very small and the
joints between them are barely
perceptible, so you may decide that
This model of Victory is
painted in authentic colors.
The copper sheathing
applied below the waterline
has been simulated, using a
paint finish that gives the
mottled green verdigris
effect that copper takes on
when it corrodes.
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this does not matter. Alternatively, it’s
possible to simulate the joints by
lightly scribing lines on the hull before
painting so that they show through the
finish. This is very convincing, but it is a
painstaking and time-consuming job.
3. Copper tape
A section of the hull sprayed with a
bright metallic copper paint.
A section of the hull sprayed with an
antiquing paint to produce a simulated
verdigris effect.
A section of the hull scribed with lines to
simulate the overlapping sheets of
copper, then painted with metallic
copper paint.
A section of the hull covered with
miniature copper tiles to simulate the
sheathing.
For greater authenticity, you can apply
real copper to the hull. The cheaper,
quicker option is to buy narrow,
self-adhesive copper tape (available in
various sizes) and stick strips to the
underside of the hull. As with a painted
finish, you need to apply the copper
tape after the hull is completely
planked but before you start to add
the delicate deck fittings.
While tape is quicker to apply than
tiles, it does have disadvantages. Most
importantly, you must cut the tape
into short sections — you cannot use
long strips. This is because copper
expands very readily when it gets
warm but wood does not. If you stick
large pieces of copper to the wooden
hull, you will find that, over time, they
will wrinkle and bubble and may even
pull away.
Although strips of copper tape will
give some impression of the copper
plates on the real Victory (particularly if
they are around the right width to be
in scale), you won’t get the authentic
“brickwork” finish unless you cut
thousands of small pieces that will be
very difficult to shape and apply
accurately.
The natural copper will naturally
tarnish in time to a more authentic
verdigris finish, or you can achieve the
effect artificially.
Paints and Varnish
The best paints to use are waterbased modeling paints, as these are
non-toxic, fast-drying and provide an
authentic period finish. They can be
bought separately in conveniently
small quantities, or you can buy a set
of 14 that includes all the colors
recommended for painting Victory in
a historically accurate way.
If you visit the official HMS Victory
website, you will see that her curators
provide detailed information on what
colors were used and where, and
we’ll be giving you the same
instructions in your magazine. The
colors include the prominent yellow
ochre and dull black, of course, but
you’ll also need red, white, blue, gold
and more to pick out Victory’s fittings
and ornamental details. These paints
are available individually or in sets
from good model shops, or you can
buy them directly from our website.
The paint set includes some clear
lacquer with which to varnish the
parts of Victory that should be left in
natural wood, such as the decks and
many small fittings.
If you plan to leave your model in a
natural wood finish, you will need to
apply varnish to all the exposed
surfaces in order to preserve them
and bring out the grain of the
materials. Once again, you can buy
suitable water-based modeling
lacquer from the sources mentioned
above. You can also use wood stain
to accentuate parts of the ship or
simulate the original materials (see
Wooden “copper” finish in Adding
Copper Sheathing, on page 11).
4. Copper tiles
You can also choose to apply real
copper tiles, which are available to buy
as an optional extra. These produce a
very attractive finish, but bear in mind
that the tiles all have to be applied
individually. Once again, you can leave
the copper natural (it will naturally
tarnish a little over time) or weather it
to an artificial verdigris finish.
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Water-based modeling paints are
available in all the authentic colors.
They are quick-drying and easy to apply.
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Pack 1
The parts provided include four precision, laser-cut frames to form the bow of Victory, plus glue, and
all the components for the first of the guns that formed her main armament.
Part 1
Part 12
Parts 8
Bow section of internal “keel”
Forward bulkhead
Bow formers
Where the parts fit
12
8
Victory’s hull is built up around a
series of “U”-shaped rib frames
that run the full length of the
ship. The ribs slot into an internal
“keel” that runs from bow to stern
below the gun decks. The parts
provided are the bow section of
the internal keel (1), the forward
bulkhead (12) and two bow
formers (8).
1
12-pounder gun
Component check
Small Parts
The components that make
up the gun are very small,
so ensure that none of the
components shown (right)
are missing before you
assemble it as shown later
in this pack. Note that one
pair of wheels is larger than
the other, and that the two
pins that fix the gun to the
deck are not used until later.
glue
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Assembling the bow frames
The wooden pieces form the main framework of Victory’s bow. You can either start to assemble them
now using the glue provided or wait until you have opened more Packs to build up the framework of
the hull.
1
2
1. The forward bulkhead (12) fits into slot number 12. Test-fit
to check that the bottoms of the two slots touch and the base
of the bulkhead lines up with the curved edge of the keel.
Only
apply glue
to the long
slot.
2. Separate the keel from the forward bulkhead again and
apply a thin line of glue along both sides of the slot in the
forward bulkhead.
3
Quick Tip
The edges of the wood are accurately cut using a laser
(which is the reason they are a darker brown). As a result,
there should be no stray splinters to prevent the joints from
sliding together easily. But if there are any rough spots,
lightly rub the parts with fine sandpaper to remove them.
4
3. Before the glue starts to dry, slide the two parts together
again. Make sure that the bottom of the bulkhead ends up
flush with the curved edge of the keel.
5
4. The two bow formers (8) have a pair of projecting tabs that
fit into the matching holes numbered 8. Test them in position
before applying glue to the tabs and the straight edges of the
bow formers.
5. Press both bow formers
into place. Check that the
joints between all four
parts are at right angles
and set the assembly aside
to dry. If necessary, you can
use a little masking tape to
hold the parts until the
glue has set.
Quick Tip
The bulkhead is symmetrical, so it
will fit into the slot in the keel either
way around. Make sure you install it
with the numbers facing forward, as
shown. Otherwise, it will be harder for
you to match up the numbered bow
formers (parts 7 to 11a) when you
receive them in later packs.
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Assembling the 12-pounder gun
This model of one of Victory’s deck guns is assembled in a similar
way to the real thing, although some of the model parts are
made of brass instead of iron and wood.
Both axles
and the trunnion
are cut from the
long piece of
wire
Before you start
Make sure you have all the components
shown in the exploded view (right)
before you start. You will need:
u A craft knife
u Side cutter pliers (from model shops)
u S uperglue (cyanoacrylate adhesive)
to fix the parts together
u A pair of tweezers to hold the parts
u A flat needle file (from model shops)
1
1. Use a craft knife to separate the two
sides of the gun carriage. Support the
parts on a cutting mat or work surface
to ensure that you do not split the wood
as you cut the tab that joins them.
2
3
2. Fit the sides and base of the carriage
together like this, ensuring that the
ribbed surfaces of the sides are facing
out. Then gently push the brass wire
through one set of axle holes.
4
3. Leave enough wire projecting to form
an axle for one of the wheels (about 1/8
in). Use side cutters to snip the wire on
the other side of the gun carriage, with
the same amount projecting.
Paintwork
Trafalgar finish
4. Push the remaining piece of wire through the other pair of axle holes. As before,
trim the wire off leaving a small bit projecting from both sides to take the wheels.
Now hold the carriage upside-down. Ensure that the base touches the axles and that
the axles are centered, then carefully apply a tiny amount of superglue to the
underside so that it runs into the joints.
15
The guns carried on board ships of
the line were painted black, using a
mixture of black lead, linseed oil and
other materials to prevent the iron
from rusting. To achieve this finish,
paint all the brass parts using a fine
brush and black modeling paint.
HMS Victory’s gun carriages were
painted a dull yellow
ochre. You will
need to apply
this color
before
fitting the
barrel.
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Expert Tip
5
Using superglue
Liquid superglue of the type recommended for the model is
very runny and it is easy to apply too much. It can also bond
skin in seconds, so if you are unfamiliar with using it, read
the safety instructions on the pack.
When using superglue to assemble a finely detailed model
like Victory, it can be tricky to apply the small amounts
needed. Never apply glue to the model until you
have first tried it on a piece of scrap card to see
how quickly it runs out of the nozzle. To
apply tiny amounts accurately, you may
find it easier to run out a blob of glue
onto the card and pick up a droplet on
the point of a pin.
5. When the glue has set, turn the carriage on one side and
place one of the larger wheels on the end of the front axle.
Apply a tiny drop of glue to the center to fix it in place.
6
7
6. Glue one of the smaller wheels to
the rear axle, then turn the carriage over
and add the other two wheels.
8
7. To finish the axles off neatly, you can
file the projecting ends of the wire flush
using a flat needle file.
8. Lay the remaining wire in the grooves
running across the top of the sides. Cut it
off flush with the sides of the carriage.
10
9
Ensure
the ring on the
barrel (called
the thimble) is
facing up
9. Push the cut length of wire through the hole in the gun
barrel to form the trunnion, then lay the barrel on the gun
carriage with the ends of the wire in the grooves.
11. Take the
remaining small
rectangle of wood
and use a craft knife
to shave it to a
wedge shape.
Glue the wedge to
the back of the gun
carriage, so that it
raises the rear end
of the gun barrel.
11
10. Glue the two brass “cap squares” over the ends of
the wire. The easiest way to do this is to hold the cap
square with tweezers. Put a drop of glue on a
piece of paper, touch the cap square
to the glue, then hold it in
position on the gun
carriage until the
glue sets.
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Pack 2
The parts provided include six precision laser-cut plywood parts for the first of the
“U”-shaped rib frames that support Victory’s planking, plus all the components for the
first of the four massive anchors used to moor the warship.
Parts
13, 13a, 13b
Rib frame
Parts
14, 14a, 14b
Rib frame
Where the parts fit
14
Victory’s hull planking is built up
around a series of “U”-shaped rib
frames that run the full length of
the ship, plus a series of curved
frames that support the rounded
planking of the bow. The parts
provided are the first two rib
frames that form the hull (13
and 14).
Anchor
6 components
Small Parts
The brass ring that goes
through the eye of the
anchor is very small, so
make sure that it does not
get misplaced. Note that
there are two coils of
thread – a thick one and a
thin one. The thin thread is
used to bind the anchor
stock; the thick one is used
to make the mooring line.
17
13
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Assembling the bow frames
The wooden pieces form the main framework of Victory’s bow. You can either start to assemble them
now using the glue provided or wait until you have opened more Packs to build up the framework of
the hull.
1
2
Only
apply glue
as far as this
point
1. Take the three plywood components labeled 13, 13a and
13b. Together, they make up the first of the 17 “U”-shaped rib
frames that form Victory’s hull.
2. The dove-tailed joints are a close fit, so don’t assemble
them without glue, as they may be hard to separate. Apply
a little glue as shown and press the parts together.
3
4
3. Make sure that both ribs are straight and not twisted, then
set the completed frame down on a flat, non-stick surface,
such as a plastic worktop, to let the glue dry thoroughly.
5
4. The rib frame slides into the number 13 slot immediately
behind the forward bulkhead. As you did with the bulkhead,
ensure that the bottoms
of the two slots touch,
so that the base of the
rib lines up with the
curved edge of the keel.
This slot
forms a socket
for the
foremast
5. Assemble rib frame 14 in the same way
as you did for 13. When the glue is dry, try
the rib frame in place in the keel. Note that
the slot is thicker at the top. This will form a
socket for the base of the foremast.
Quick Tip
We recommend that
you don’t glue the
“U”-shaped rib frames to
Victory’s internal keel yet as
it’s important to align the
tops with the frames that
are still to come. However,
you can slot both rib frames
into the bow assembly to
see Victory’s hull start to
take shape.
18
™
Assembling the anchor
Victory’s anchors are assembled in a similar way to the real thing,
with a cast metal shank and arms and a wooden stock that is made
from two pieces bound tightly together. As on the full-size ship, the
anchor will be roped in place against the hull.
Before you start
Make sure you have all the
components before you start.
You also need the following tools:
u Ruler and pencil
1
u Needle file
u Craft knife and pliers
u Modeling vice and clothespin
2
2. Use a needle file to form a slot in line
with the mark on the first half of the
stock, down to about halfway through.
A small vice will help to hold the wood.
1. Find the center of both the wooden
pieces that form the anchor stock and
draw a line at right angles across them.
3
3. The slot needs to be the same width
as the shank of the anchor, so check that
this will fit. Note that the points of the
anchor go at right angles to the stock.
4
5
4. File a slot in the other piece of the
stock, ensuring that the two slots line
up. Check that the two halves fit around
the shank and don’t leave a gap.
6
Quick Tip
It’s possible to manage without
a modeling vice as used in Step 2.
However, a table-top model
(right) may not cost that
much and can be used in
many ways as your model
progresses. A swiveling
head and interchangeable jaws
are useful features.
5. It’s easiest to fit the ring into the eye
at the end of the shank now, rather than
after you glue the stock in place. Open it
and pinch it back together using pliers.
7
6. Apply glue sparingly to
one half of the stock. Apply
a little to both the central
slots.
19
7. Press the two halves together around
the shank, ensuring that they line up
with each other. Clamp lightly (clothespins are a simple alternative to clamps
or a vice) and leave to dry thoroughly.
™
important
note
8
8. When the glue is dry, smooth off the corners of
the stock using a small piece of fine sandpaper.
10
10. When you have enough turns, take
the free end of the thread through the
loop and hold it tight.
13
13. Use a sharp knife to trim off both
ends of the thread flush with the
binding. Then add three more bindings
in the same way in the positions shown
in step 16.
We have
demonstrated
Steps 9-13 using
brightly colored
thread to make it
easier to see the
whipping
technique.
However, you must
use the dark thread
provided, to
produce the result
shown in Step 14.
9
9. Use thin thread to simulate the steel banding.
To avoid an unsightly knot, make a loop near
one end and lay it under the stock. Then start
wrapping around the stock, toward the loop.
11
12
11
11. Gently pull the free end of the
thread until the loop and the end of the
wrapping disappear under the binding.
14
12. Apply a drop of superglue; it will
soak into the binding and secure the
thread permanently.
15
14. The correct knot to use
for the mooring line is a
fisherman’s bend. Start by
taking a turn through the
brass ring.
Note
that the wooden
stock should be at
right angles to the
anchor
16
16. Finish off by making another half-hitch, then tighten the
knot by holding the long end and pulling on the short one.
20
15. Then take the short end behind
the long one and tuck it through
the turn you just made.
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Pack 3
The parts provided include four precision laser-cut sections to extend the hull of
Victory, and all the components for the first of the two carronades, or “smashers,”
she carried on deck for close-quarters engagements.
Parts 15
Center of rib frame
Part 2
Part 9
Extension of internal “keel”
Bow formers
Bracing pieces
Where the parts fit
15
Victory’s hull is built on a series of
“U”-shaped rib frames that run
the length of the ship. The ribs
slot into an internal “keel”
running from bow to stern below
the gun decks. The parts
provided are the extension of the
internal keel (2), part of a rib that
slots into it (15), and two more
formers for the bow (9).
2
Bracing pieces
reinforce this joint
Carronade
The components
Small Parts
The parts that make up the
carronade are very small, so
make sure that none of the
components shown (right)
is missing before you
assemble it as shown later
in this pack. Note there are
10 eyebolts (on the left of
the picture) and three pins
(far right, top), of which
two are not used until later.
21
9
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Extending the internal “keel”
The largest wooden piece provided extends the main framework of Victory’s hull toward the stern. You
can fix this and the bow formers now, using the glue provided with Pack 1, but don’t attach the ribs
permanently until you have collected more parts to build up the framework of the hull.
1
3
1. The extension of the internal “keel” (2) has an end joint that
fits onto the bow section (1). Apply a little glue to the contact
area and join the parts together.
2
2. Lay the keel down flat. Before the glue has dried, apply glue
to each of the bracing pieces, covering the surface as shown.
4
3. Fit one bracing piece to each side of the “keel.” Ensure that
the tops align with the top of the “keel” and that the bracing
pieces don’t cover slots 15 and 16.
4. Clamp the assembly together firmly. It is quite easy to
dislodge the bracing pieces as you do this, so make sure that
they are still in the correct position, then set aside to dry.
5
Quick Tip
You can slot the “U”-shaped
rib frames into the bow
assembly to see Victory’s hull
start to take shape, but don’t
glue them yet as it’s important
to align them with the
frames that are
yet to come.
5. Glue the straight edges (but not
the ends of the tabs) of the two bow
formers (9). Push the tabs into the
holes in the forward bulkhead, (also
marked “9”). Check that the bow
formers are in line with the existing
ones, with an even gap between
them, then set them aside to allow
the glue to dry.
22
™
Assembling the carronade
This model of one of Victory’s two 68-pounder “smashers”
is assembled in a similar way to the real thing,
although some of the model parts are made of
brass instead of iron and wood.
Before you start
Make sure you have all the parts shown in
the exploded view (right) before you start.
You will need:
u Craft knife
u Tweezers
u Wire cutters
u Long-nose pliers
u Round-nose pliers
u Flat needle file
u Modeling vice
u Micro drill
u Wire-gauge drill bits (two sizes)
u Pin hammer
You also need superglue (as well as the glue
provided with Pack 1), a panel pin and a
cocktail stick. A magnifying glass may prove
useful.
1
1. Use a craft knife to shave off any
whiskers of wood attached to the
three larger wooden components.
2
3
2. Following the diagrams at the top of page 24, mark the
positions of the holes in the side of the wooden base and
mark where the base, the rounded slide that goes on top, and
the square mounting platform that goes under it fit together.
3. Clamp the wooden base in a modeling vice and use a
micro drill to drill the four holes in the side of the base.
The wire-gauge drill bit needs to be a fraction larger than
the shaft of an eyebolt.
23
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Where to drill and
position the wooden parts
1. Holes in the side of the wooden base
3. Holes through the base and slide
pivot hole
5 mm
10 mm
10 mm
12.5 mm
15 mm
22 mm
26 mm
2. location of SLIDE AND mounting platform
7 mm
4
4. Apply a small amount of glue to the
underside of the slide and wipe off any
surplus.
Expert tip
Drill all the holes using a modeler’s
micro drill (Archimedean drill) and
wire-gauge drill bits (below). The
latter come in sets – the higher the
number, the smaller the drill. You
normally need a No. 65 and a No. 72
to drill the wood, but check by
drilling a test hole to make sure that
a pin and eyebolt will fit. The brass
parts (see next page) need a No. 62.
The carriage of the carronade comes in three parts: the
wooden base (with one rounded end); the upper slide
(with two rounded ends); and the square mounting
platform. Drill four holes in the sides of the base before
assembly. Then glue all three parts together before
drilling the seven holes (above) right through them. Note
that the pivot hole is larger than the other six.
7 mm
5
6
5. Press the two components together,
aligning the positioning marks, and
allow the glue to dry.
7
6. Apply a little glue to the rounded end
of the base and glue the mounting
platform in line with the marked point.
8
7. Following the diagrams, mark the
positions of the holes in the side of the
wooden base and the rounded slide
that goes on top.
24
8. Clamp the base in a modeling vice
and use a micro drill to drill the six
eyebolt holes and one pivot hole right
through all the parts.
™
1
Where to drill
and bend the pivot
The pivot is made from the thin brass strip, supplied
oversize. Mark the dimensions as shown.
5 mm
3 mm
5 mm
larger
hole
larger
hole
3 mm
dead
center
3 mm
1. Following the dimensions on the left, measure the small
brass strip and score lines at the marked points (including the
total 13 mm length required) using the point of a craft knife.
2
Expert Tip
To hold the brass strip
for drilling, stick it to a
piece of double-sided
tape (or masking tape
wound backward) on a
block of scrap wood.
2. Snip off any surplus from the end of the brass strip. Take
care, as the small piece will fly off with some force.
3
4
3. Gently punch marks for three drill holes at the points
indicated on the diagram above, using the point of a
sharp panel pin.
5
5. The two end holes need to be larger
than the center one. Check that the
brass wire will slip through.
4. Drill the three holes using your micro drill, taking care not
to apply too much pressure and snap the drill bit on the
relatively hard material.
6
7
6. Use long-nose modeling pliers to
bend the brass strip into a square U
shape as shown.
25
7. Trim the end of the brass wire square
with a flat needle file and bend it
straight if necessary.
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8
9
9. Ensure that the pivot on the carronade is square to the
barrel. If necessary, twist it into place and fix it with superglue.
Then place a drop of superglue in the hole in the pivot.
8. Cut a length of brass wire to fit through the arms of the U
shape you just made. File the cut end square, leaving a short
amount projecting on both sides.
10
11
10. Glue the short length of brass wire into the hole, leaving an
equal amount projecting on both sides.
12
11. Insert one of the three brass pins through the center of the
brass “U” and pull the head level with the metal.
13
12. Holding the pin, spring the two arms of the “U” over the
projecting ends of the brass wire. Pinch the arms together with
the pliers to complete the barrel mounting.
13. Apply glue to the projecting pin and the underside of the
brass “U” and insert the pin through the center hole in the slide.
Custom Finishing
You have the choice of leaving the materials of the
carronade in their natural finish to show the construction of
the model or painting them to look even more like the
original on Victory. In the latter case, you may wish to touch
in the brass pivot with a little black modeling paint. It’s
easiest to do this now, before adding the eyebolts and other
fittings around the outer edges of the wooden base.
26
™
Eyebolts
Adding the eyebolts
and pulley blocks
8
Use this overhead view of the finished Carronade assembly
to see where to position the 10 eyebolts. Note that the rear
two are wired to the two small wooden pulley blocks.
As described below, you must do this before gluing the
eyebolts into the wooden base as it will be almost
impossible to twist the wire afterward. The eyebolts and
pulley blocks will be used at a later stage to attach the
ropes that hold the carronade in place on the deck.
7
1
2
6
1
5
4
10
3
9
2
1. Gently file one end of the smallest piece of wood into a
shallow wedge shape to form the quoin that goes under the
barrel of the carronade. Cut the wedge to around 3 mm long
(inset). This piece is small and can easily become lost once it’s
cut off, so pay close attention.
2. Insert the cross-shaped elevating screw through the eye in
the end of the barrel. Then glue the wedge under the thickest
part of the barrel, ensuring that it clears the elevating screw.
3
4
3. Glue the first two of the 10 brass eyebolts (numbers 1 and 2
in the picture at the top of the page) into the front holes in the
sides of the wooden base, ensuring that the flat of the eyes
lies parallel to the edge of the wood.
4. Glue six of the other eyebolts (numbers 3-8) through the
top of the base, noting that they go in different directions (see
above). Snip off all the projecting ends of the eyebolts and the
pin holding the barrel, then file them flush with the base.
27
™
5
5. Take the shaped piece of brass and
use long-nose pliers to bend it into a
“U” shape along the marked lines.
6
7
6. Snip off short lengths of brass wire to
fit through the holes at each end of the
channel and file both ends square.
8
9
8. Glue the completed assembly to the end of the base to form
the carronade’s side-to-side training wheels.
10
10. Use a pair of pliers to form a loose
loop through the eye, then twist the
free ends to secure the loop.
13
7. Superglue the holes in the two small
wheels, slip each one into the channel
and insert the wire to form axles.
9. Snip off about 2 inches of the fine wire and lace through one
of the remaining eyebolts, leaving equal lengths projecting.
11
12
11. Take one of the wooden blocks and
wrap the free ends of the wire around it.
Twist the ends to secure the block.
13. Snip off the
ends of the wire,
then glue the
eyebolt into
one of the
remaining holes
in the side of the
base as shown
right. Repeat the
assembly of the
other block in the
same way.
28
12. Then use round-nose
pliers to form another eye
in the free ends of the wire,
and twist to secure it.
™
Pack 4
The components provided include 13 precision lasercut parts to complete the bow framing and assemble
another of Victory’s rib frames.
Parts 11a
Parts 10
Parts 11
Bow formers
Bow formers
Bow formers
Parts 7
Bow formers
Part 16
Parts 15a, 15b
Parts 7a
Rib frame
Rib frames
Bow former supports
Where the parts fit
16 15b
15a
7a
7
11a
Victory’s bow is built up around a
series of closely spaced curved
formers that slot into the forward
bulkhead. The planking is fixed to
these, and the “U”-shaped rib
frames that run the full length of
the ship, slotting into an internal
“keel” that runs from bow to
stern. The parts provided
complete the bow framing.
11
10
29
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The bow framing
Victory’s bow planking forms a tight curve. For this reason, the model – like the ship herself – has a
series of closely spaced formers to make a framework that gives the planking a good support.
1
2
1. Apply a little glue to the straight edges of the two number
10 formers, then press them into place, ensuring that they are
at right angles to the forward bulkhead.
2. Repeat the process to add the two number 11 bow formers,
followed by both the number 11a formers, which fit alongside
the number 11 formers.
3
4
3. Glue the long tab on one of the two small cross shapes (7a)
into the slot in part 7. Glue the other tab into the bulkhead.
Ensure the curve on part 7 is the right way up (below right).
4. As you did with the previous ribs, apply a little glue to the
two joints that attach parts15a and 15b to the main section of
rib 15.
5
Ensure you
fit part 7 the
right way up,
as shown
5. Add parts 15a and 15b, then lay
the completed rib assembly to one
side to allow the glue to dry,
ensuring that the parts are straight
and level.
Do not glue
any ribs in place
yet. Note rib 16 is
incomplete at
this stage
30
™
Pack 5
The components provided include six precision
laser-cut parts to continue building up the rib
frames for the hull of Victory.
Part 18
Rib frame
Parts 17a, 17b
Part 16a, 16b
Rib frame
Rib frame
Part 17
Rib frame
Where the parts fit
18
Victory’s hull is built up around a
series of “U”-shaped rib frames
that run the full length of the
ship, slotting into the internal
“keel” that runs from bow to
stern. The parts provided – 16,
17 and 18 – are parts of the
remaining ribs in her forward
section.
31
17 16
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1
2
1. Take the center section of rib frame 16 (supplied with the
previous pack) and apply a little glue to the dovetail joints on
both sides.
2. Attach the two wing sections (16a and 16b) to complete the
rib frame. Ensure that the parts are lined up flush and lay the
frame down flat to dry.
3
4
3. Repeat the process, using the three sections you received to
assemble rib frame 17.
4. After joining the parts, make sure the joints are in line, then
set the frame aside to dry flat.
Quick Tip
To see more of the forward
section of Victory’s hull
taking shape, you can
loosely assemble the rib
frames. Do not glue them
at this stage.
32