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AND THERE’S MOOR… With a charm little changed since the Middle Ages, Morocco is reaching out with a slew of very different new retreats that explore its heritage, while delivering plenty of exotic luxury, says Julian Allason. +- F fi Z\ekli`\j k_\ g`eb$nXcc\[ Z`kp ZfdgXep# `k `j hl`\kcp Y\`e^ \dg_Xj`j\[ f]DXiiXb\j_#ZXg`kXcf]DfifZZfËj cfZXccp#`j:XeX[`XeÆefk8d\i`ZXe%8dfe^ jflk_#_Xj[iXne<lifg\Xem`j`kfij fk_\i clolip fg\iXkfij n`k_ gifa\Zkj n\cc n`k_`kjd\[`\mXc\olY\iXeZ\Xe[ X[mXeZ\[Xi\IfZZf=fik\?fk\cj#9XepXe le]X`c`e^ \ofk`Z`jd% Lek`c efn# Ki\\# >fi[fe :XdgY\cc >iXp Xe[ ?pXkk% Z_Xe^\_XjZfd\c`b\Xk_`\]`ek_\8iXY`Xe D\Xen_`c\#k_\^iXe[[Xd\f]DXiiXb\j_# e`^_k#[\i\c`ZkgXcXZ\jhl`\kcpkiXejdlk\[ k_\dX^e`]`Z\ekCXDXdfle`X#Y\cfm\[f] `ekf i`X[j Æ `ekifm\ik\[ ^l\jk_flj\j# Xlj$ :_liZ_`cc Xe[ :_Xgc`e# _Xj aljk i\fg\e\[ k\i\ fi fglc\ek Ylk j\c[fd cXi^\ \efl^_ X]k\i X (''d# k_i\\$p\Xi i\jkfiXk`fe Yp kfnXiiXekk_\[\j`^eXk`feÈ`eeÉ%Efnk_\ k_XkgXj_Xf]_fk\c[\j`^e#AXZhl\j>XiZ`X% Z`kpËjd`^_kp^Xk\j_Xm\Y\\ek_ifnefg\e N`k_jlZ_\jkXYc`j_\[Zfdg\k`k`feÆ8dXe kf^iXe[\i#dfi\XdY`^lflj\ek\igi`j\j% `j Xci\X[p _\i\ Æ k_\ e\nZfd\ij ZXeefk E\ok dfek_ n`cc n`ke\jj X ZXjZX[\ f] X]]fi[Xep]X`cli\f]`dX^`eXk`fe% clolip _fk\c fg\e`e^j lec`b\ Xepk_`e^ Jfn_p_\i\68e[n_pefn6=XZ`e^Xe p\k j\\e _\i\% K_\ ]`ijk# AeXe IX_dX Yp Xcdfjk[flYc`e^f]k_\gfglcXk`fefm\ik_\ k_\ ?fe^ Bfe^$YXj\[ DXe[Xi`e Fi`\ekXc gXjk *' p\Xij# k_\ B`e^[fd f] DfifZZf# ^iflg# `j X [iXdXk`Z (-($iffd gXcXZ\ jfd\k`d\j [\jZi`Y\[ Xj X Y\e`^e XlkfZ$ Xe[ i`X[ Zfdgc\o f] Dffi`j_ ZflikpXi[j iXZp# gcXej kf ]le[ [\m\cfgd\ek k_ifl^_ Y\pfe[k_\Z`kpnXccj%8^X`ejkXYXZb[ifg kfli`jd# \ogXe[`e^ `kj gi\[fd`eXekcp f]k_\jefnZXgg\[8kcXjdflekX`ej#`kn`cc =iXeZfg_fe\Xgg\Xc`ekf<e^c`j_#>\idXe `ejk`klk\ X Zfekifm\ij`Xc e\n XggifXZ_ kf Xe[ @kXc`Xe dXib\kj% K_\i\ Xi\ Xcjf k_\ Efik_8]i`ZXe_fk\c$b\\g`e^n`k_k_\Zfd$ C\mXekXe[>lc]jkXk\jkfn_fdk_\XkkiXZ$ gXepËjZfeZ\gkf]8j`Xej\im`Z\%K_\kiXm\c k`fej f] Xe 8iXY`Z$jg\Xb`e^ ÈZfc[ Zflekip `e[ljkip`jX^f^kfj\\_fn`kj`ekif[lZk`fe n`k_ X _fk jleÉ `e DXij_Xc CpXlk\pËj `ekf Xe Xjj`d`cXk`fe f] 9\iY\i# 8iXY Xe[ le\og\Zk\[ Z_XiXZk\i`jXk`fe Xi\ j\c]$ N\jk8]i`ZXeZlckli\jn`ccgcXpflk% \m`[\ek% K_\ gi\j\eZ\ f] JXl[` gi`eZ\cp 8e Xcdfjk legi\Z\[\ek\[ j\hl\eZ\ f] \jkXk\j `e k_\ GXcd\iX`\ k\jk`]`\j kf k_`j% cXleZ_\jn`cck_\ele]lick_ifl^_flk)'(' K_\`ek\i\jkf]N\jk\ie_fk\c`\ij`jiXk_\i Xe[ )'((# `eZcl[`e^ Xe [`]]\i\ek# Xe[ `eZcl[\j Xe XdY`k`flj =fli J\Xjfej Main picture: the Kasbah Bab lejgfb\e [\j`i\ kf _\[^\ i\jfik e\Xi k_\ D\eXiX Ourika looks out onto the Atlas Y\kj gcXZ\[ fe ;lYX`% Jf >Xi[\ej# n`k_ Xe (/$_fc\ Mountains. Right: Bab Ourika n_`c\ DfifZZXe ifpXc X[m`j$ ^fc] Zflij\ fe j`k\% K_\ has a calm, simple aesthetic. \ij ]i\k XYflk k_\ `dgXZk f] howtospendit.com howtospendit.com +. The restoration of the kasbah is as authentic as may be found. Our bedroom is of serene simplicity, guarded by a massive ancient door, magnificently carved. 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]`cd j\kj `e k_\ n`c$ [\ie\jj#k_\((k_$Z\eklipbjXifi]fik`]`\[ m`ccX^\ f] 8k 9\e$?X[[fl# Xe[ nfd\e nXj_`e^ ZXig\kj `e k_\ i`m\i nXkZ_\[ Yp d\e ]ifd k_\ j_X[\ f] ZXemXj gXm`c`fej% 8]k\iXjn`kZ_YXZbZc`dYlgk_\?`^_8kcXj kf K`q` eËK`Z_bX gXjj Xk )#),,d# Xe[ k_\ [\jZ\ek gXjk ilj_`e^ nXk\i]Xccj# X iXk_\i [`]]\i\ek`ek\igi\kXk`feXnX`kj% N_XkXi\df[\jkcp[\jZi`Y\[Xj9\iY\i k\ekj _Xm\ i\Z\ekcp Y\\e g`kZ_\[ fe k_\ \[^\ f] X gi\Z`g`Z\ fm\i k_\ 8je` mXcc\p Xk BXjYX_ KXdX[fk% 8]k\i XZhl`j`k`fe ]ifd Xe @kXc`Xe$Yfie Xek`hlXi`Xe Yp J`i I`Z_Xi[9iXejfe#k_\]fikÆ]fid\icpj\Xk f] k_\ È:X`[É fi [`jki`Zk ^fm\iefi Æ _Xj Y\\e i\jkfi\[ `e X g`\Z\ f] gli\ k_\Xki\ k_Xk j_flc[ gifg\c ]fccfn\ij f] k_\ GXlc howtospendit.com howtospendit.com +0 ,' howtospendit.com ALAN KEOHANE/WWW.STILL-IMAGES.NET (2). JULIAN ALLASON (3). 9fnc\jjZ_ffcf]DfifZZXe Below: a fountain trickles in the kiXehl`cc`kp Xe[ j\Zli`kp f] `kjgfj`k`fedXb\<qqX_iXXe i\Xc`jd jZi\Xd`e^ kf k_\ Moorish courtyard at Ezzahra, \o`kj%K_\k\ekjXi\k_\jkl]] hidden behind Marrakesh’s walls. `ejg`i`e^Xe[Z_`c[$]i`\e[cp m\el\]fi]Xd`cpi\le`fej#Xj f] (0k_$Z\eklip Fi`\ekXc`jk ]XekXjpn`k_k_\X[[`k`fef]X`iZfe[`k`fe$ n\ccXjX^i\XkjkXik`e^$flkgf`ek]fi\og\[`$ `e^#Zfcfe`XcYXk_iffdjXe[_\Xk\[gcle^\ k`fej`ekfk_\klidf`cf]k_\jflbjfilg`ekf gffcj fe k_\`i [\Zbj k_Xk nflc[ _Xm\ k_\8kcXjfe_fij\YXZbfiYpgi`mXk\gcXe\% [\c`^_k\[ k_\ :X`[Ëj ZXd\cj% JkXp`e^ `e Fe\Y`ik_[Xp$gXikp`e^^iflge\m\ic\]kk_\ fe\ `j X dfi\ ifdXek`Z \og\i`\eZ\ k_Xe \jkXk\# Zfek\ek n`k_ k_\ Z_f`Z\ f] gX[[c\ k\ee`j#jZi\\e`e^iffdj#Y`cc`Xi[kXYc\Xe[ `ek_\BXjYX_Ëjgclj_Y\[iffdj% K_\ b_X`dX k\ekj Xk BXjYX_ KXdX[fk kiXehl`cgcXZ\jf]\jZXg\%=ficXi^\i_flj\ f]]\ik_\efkXYcp]lebpZc`\ek\c\Xefggfi$ gXik`\j#k_\i\`jXcjfXgXm`c`fe`ek_\^Xi[\e# kle`kp kf Z_`cc Y\]fi\ kXZbc`e^ k_\ Xe[ `e k_\ X[aXZ\ek Zfdgfle[ B_fqXdX# _licp$Ylicpf]DXiiXb\j_#fe\_fliY\cfn% Xe\ngi`mXk\m`ccXf]\jfk\i`Z[\j`^en`k_X K_\i\`jjZfg\Xgc\ekp#]ifdXjgXf]]\i`e^ jn`dd`e^gffcfg\ekfk_\jkXij% K_\j\#k_\e#Xi\k_\df[\cj]ifdn_`Z_ ]fli$_Xe[\[ dXjjX^\ Xe[ (/' dflekX`e m`\nj kf \og\[`k`fej Yp _fk$X`i YXccffe% k_\ `eZfd`e^ _fk\c`\ij Xi\ [iXn`e^ k_\`i 8ep j\XiZ_ ]fi k_\ _`gg`\ c\^XZp f] k_\ `ejg`iXk`fe1 k_\ _`jkfi`Z Xlk_\ek`Z`kp DXiiXb\j_<ogi\jjgXjj\e^\ijf]k_\(0-'j# f] k_\ bXjYX_# k_\ `ek\i`fi g\i]\Zk`fe f] jlZ_ Xj KXc`k_X >\kkp Xe[ Pm\j JX`ek k_\ i`X[# k_\ \og\i`\eZ\ f] k_\ b_X`dX# Xe[ k_\ kiXehl`c$ CXli\ek# nflc[ c`kp Xe[ jgXZ\ Y\ dfi\ c`b\cp kf f] CX GXcd\iX`\% ]`e[ k_\`i _\`ij K_\_Xi[\iYXcXeZ\ ZXdg\[ _\i\# kf Y\ jkilZb n`cc iXk_\i k_Xe `e Y\ `e Y\e[`e^ k_\ k_\ Z`kp% K_\ DfifZZXe dXee\i Z_Xid`e^ jkX]]# f] [f`e^ k_`e^j i\Zil`k\[ ]ifd cfZXc m`ccX^\j# kf k_\ N\jk\ie gifm`[\ X ]cXmfli \og\ZkXk`fej f] X f] DfifZZfËj clolip _fk\c% 8 [iXdXk`Z _`jkfip ]\n[\^i\\jkff]Xi Xe[\ofk`ZZlckli\% `e k_\ ]`ijk [`i\Z$ @e[\\[# ^l\jkj k`fe Xe[ k_`e^j Xi\ n\cZfd\[ dXp [\jZ\e[ `ekf `ekf cfZXc _fd\j Z_\\i]lc Efik_ Xe[ \eZfliX^\[ 8]i`ZXe Z_Xfj2 X kf jlggfik X jn`e^`ek_\fk_\i Z f $ f g \ i X k ` m \ Xe[ j\ej\ f] dXb`e^ k\ok`c\j gcXZ\ n`cc \mXgf$ Xe[ _Xe[`ZiX]kj% iXk\ Xj jn`]kcp Xj P\k n`k_`e k_\ jefnd\ck `e k_\ XdY`k f] k_\JX_XiX%) DXiiXb\j_# k_`j dXpi\gi\j\ekk_\\ok\ekkfn_`Z_^l\jkj CULTURE CLUB feXj_fikm`j`kkfXclolip_fk\cZXei\Xc$ The best time to go is Sept-Nov and Mar-May `jk`ZXccp g\e\kiXk\ X nXp f] c`]\ k_Xk jk`cc when temperatures are pleasant but not soaring. fn\jXjdlZ_kfk_\D`[[c\8^\jXjkfk_\ Julian Allason was a guest of Original Travel (020\iX f] k_\ =i\eZ_ Gifk\ZkfiXk\% K_\i\ `j# 7978 7333; www.originaltravel.co.uk), which offers _fn\m\i# Xe `eki`^l`e^ gXiXcc\c jkiXe[ f] a week’s mid-season package – three nights at Dar [\m\cfgd\ekk_Xk_XjXcjfY\\ek_\jlYa\Zk Ahlam full-board, three nights at Kasbah Tamadot f] ZXi\]lc jkl[p Yp k_\ `dd`^iXek ^iXe[ B&B from £2,540 based on two sharing with flights _fk\c`\ij% CX GXcd\iX`\ `j X ]\ik`c\ gXcd from London and transfers. He was also a guest of ^ifm\ efik_ f] k_\ D\[`eX fi fc[ 8iXY Royal Air Maroc (www.royalairmaroc.com), which hlXik\i% K_\ cXe[ _\i\ `j ^iX[lXccp Y\`e^ flies from Heathrow to Marrakesh from £145. Zfem\ik\[`ekfgi`mXk\\jkXk\jf]Xkc\XjkX Prices are for a double B&B unless stated: Dar _\ZkXi\# f]k\e cXi^\i% Lgfe `k Xi\ Xci\X[p Ahlam, Skoura, Ouarzazate (+800-2000 0002; gcXek\[X]\njdXccÆXe[[\Z`[\[cp\ofk`Z www.maisondesreves.com), from €890 full-board. ÆYflk`hl\_fk\cj%JlZ_#]fi`ejkXeZ\#`jk_\ Kasbah Bab Ourika, Ourika Valley (+212-661 634 _`^_$ZXdg^cXdflif]C\GXcX`jI_flck_Xk 234; www.babourika.com), from €150. Kasbah `knflc[Y\_Xi[kfZfeZ\`m\`kj\o`jk\eZ\ Tamadot, Asni, Marrakesh (0800-716 919; www. \cj\n_\i\%@kje\`^_Yflij`eZcl[\jfd\f] virginlimitededition.com), from €430. La Mamounia, k_\dfjk\eZ_Xek`e^m`ccXj`eEfik_8]i`ZX% Marrakesh (+212-524 388 600; 020-7235 3245; www. @k`jk_\j\k_Xk_Xm\gifm`[\[`ejg`iXk`fekf mamounia.com), from £547. Mandarin Oriental k_\XiZ_`k\Zkjf]jfd\f]k_\e\n_fk\cj% Jnan Rahma, Marrakesh (+212-5243 27777; +800?`[[\e XnXp Y\_`e[ _`^_ nXccj `e X 2828 3838; www.mandarinoriental.com), from £583. j\Zi\k [fdX`e j_X[\[ Yp gXcd Xe[ fc`m\ Le Palais Rhoul, La Palmeraie, Marrakesh (+212^ifm\j `j <qqX_iX# X dX^e`]`Z\ek ]Xd`cp 5243 29494; www.palais-rhoul.com), from €290. _flj\f]Zfek\dgfiXipDfifZZXe[\j`^e% Royal Mansour, Marrakesh (+212-52437 8339; 020@ek_\Dffi`j_ZflikpXi[#X]flekX`ek`ebc\j 7235 3245; www.royalmansour.ma), from £122. `ek_\jlej_`e\%Fg\e`e^f]]Xi\j\m\eX`ip Ezzahra, La Palmeraie, Marrakesh (020-7978 7333; Y\[iffdj fm\icffb`e^ X jn`dd`e^ gffc www.ezzahra-morocco.com), from £193pp per night, Xe[^Xi[\ej%@kj9i`k`j_&>`YiXckXi`Xefne\i$ based on 14 sharing for seven nights, full-board with j_`g`j_`ek\[Xk`ek_\Xc]i\jZf[`e`e^Xe[ spa treatments. Khozama, La Palmeraie, Marrakesh cfle^`e^XiiXe^\d\ekjn`k_jhlXj_pjf]Xj (020-7978 7333; www.ezzahra-morocco.com), from feXcf^^`X#fi`eXdXihl\\$j`q\[_X`dX]lcc £250 based on four sharing for six nights’ full-board. f]il^jXe[Zlj_`fej%>l\jkj_\i\Xi\Zfj$ Easyjet flies from Gatwick to Marrakesh from £97 j\k\[YpX[fq\ejkX]]#`eZcl[`e^k_i\\jgX (www.easyjet.com; 0905-821 0905). k_\iXg`jkj Xe[ Df_Xdd\[# X DfifZZXe Morocco Tourism, 020-7437 0073; www. A\\m\jXkk`i\[`ej`cb[a\ccXYXXe[]\q%K_\ visitmorocco.com.
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