restaurants - Casa Cornacchi

 Casa Cornacchi Country House 2015-­‐ 2016 A Rough Guide For Our Guests ________________ ► including a historical background of the property ● an overview of its facilities ● a handy directory of surrounding places of interest ● a selection of best restaurants in the area ● some safety rules and many other useful information ◄ FOREWORD and PRESENTATION Thank you for staying at Casa Cornacchi. We hope you will enjoy your stay. Here you will find a directory of some relevant information concerning Casa Cornacchi and its surroundings. First of all, you made a good choice. In fact, if there is an idea of Tuscany that motivates most travellers to cross the oceans or mountain ranges, it would probably be within the triangle of land which represents Tuscany at its most: Florence, Siena and Arezzo. The three cities circle a world that changes a tourist visit into a passionate journey full of pleasant detours in which nature, history and culture have always been weaved into each other. The sceneries of this world range from the blue and translucent light of the skies painted by Piero della Francesca to the earth and city shades, the moon-­‐like clay of Siena, celebrated by Simone Martini’s frescoes. The contrast between the of wild woods and well cared fields, the castles, the postings, garrisons and fortifications, will all invite you to a world which offers a thousand attractions including visiting the Cities of Art, lingering pleasantly in the countryside, having fun reliving the party atmosphere of historically suggestive and familiar entertainments, riding or hiking, discovering the minor works of art which can be found everywhere and, of course, an exquisite choice of local food and wines. An unique combination of picture-­‐perfect landscape of golden, rolling hills, winding country roads lined with cypress trees and lush, hearty food, friendly people and a rich cultural legacy of Renaissance art, Classical architecture and ancient history. This is the area and the context where the exclusive (and secluded) resort of Casa Cornacchi lies. Located by the romantic castle of Montebenichi within the province of Arezzo, Casa Cornacchi is an ideal starting point to visit the major Tuscan art towns as well as the Chianti and Crete Senesi regions. Casa Cornacchi is ideally located for short trips to some of the most famous art cities of central Italy, such as Arezzo, Perugia, Siena, Firenze still set apart in the most unspoiled countryside and thus combining art and culture with some of the most breathtaking views of Tuscany. Casa Cornacchi is also near to areas of interest such as Chianti Classico, Crete senesi, Thermal baths and hundreds of small and still unknown places you can discover at your ease. Shopping opportunities such as famous fashion designer outlet shops (Prada, Fendi, Gucci, Armani & others) are located close to Casa Cornacchi (Montevarchi, Valdichiana and Valdarno, read further form more details). There are also traditional hand painted ceramics and pottery, alabaster works and antiquities. Moreover there are numerous antique shops in towns such as Arezzo and Siena, one of the most famous Antique Markets in Italy takes place the first weekend of each month in Arezzo’s historical center. SOME HISTORICAL BACKGROUND… The foundations of Casa Cornacchi date back to early 1500 and have had several additions over the centuries. The historical background tells us that in the turbulent years following the descent of the Lansquenets in Italy and the defeat of the “Black Brigades” headed by Giovanni de’ Medici, many of the mercenary captains who had fought by his side and been paid by the Popedom withdrew to their feuds. The more hidden and wild were these feudal estates, the safer they were. This was the destiny of Guelph Captain Giorgio Cornachja whose legendary halo has often disguised his ferocity. And it was Giorgio that in 1529 took possession of the ancient fortified tower near the castle of Monebenichi which strategically dominates a large part of the Ambra valley, both wild and hidden then as now. In fact, the name Casa Cornacchi derives from the family name of the former owners. The earliest mention of the Cornacchi family from Faenza dates back to 1230 but only in XV century some member of the family became renowned as notary and army officer. By this time part of the family moved to Soragna and Montebenichi. A contract of purchase certify that the Guelph captain Giorgio Cornachja owned the actual Casa Cornacchi since the beginning of 1500. For the following 500 years his successors, mostly landlords or jurists, lived in the same property. The apartments of the residence are named after some distinguished members of the Cornachia family such as Giorgio the first owner, a mercenary captain with a romance life who retired in this remote part of Italy, Niccolò who inherited the house in 1656, Caterina in 1724, Francesco in 1776, Giovanni in 1815 and Ferdinando in 1842. The property was bought in ruins in 2000 by the present owners, a building company based in Montevarchi with a long tradition as historical building contractors, and it took nearly three years of careful and meticulous restoration and landscaping to give the buildings their ancient splendour. Today the resort is made up of: Six independent and self catering apartments for 2 or 4 persons, four double suites one of which has facilities for disabled persons and one independent villa for 4 persons. The residence has a dining hall used as breakfast room and common room and a little bar. Casa Cornacchi is surrounded by a large private park with many panoramic terraces, patios, verandas, a swimming pool and a Jacuzzi open pool, sauna and massage facilities. The self catering apartments are all within the main building and named La Torre, Casa Giorgio, Casa Niccolò, Casa Francesco, Casa Giovanni, Casa Ferdinando. The suites are named Le Rose, I Noci, Gli Olivi and I Cipressi. The villa is called Casa Caterina QUESTIONS and ANSWERS At what time you serve breakfast ? The buffet breakfast is available from 8AM to 10AM in our restaurant What type of breakfast do you serve? Typically our breakfast consists of: freshly baked croissant and bread, one hot dish (ie. scramble eggs, omelettes, crepes ...), cold meats and cheeses, fresh vegetables (ie. tomatoes carpaccios, mixed salad), muesli, cornflakes and cereals -­‐marmalade and chocolate cream and honey, biscuits, bread, yoghurt, Tea, coffee, milk, cappuccino and espresso, fruit juices How the restaurant in the property works? At the property we organise full traditional dinners few times per week. On the other days meals are available upon request. See the meal offer in the chapter below. What kind of food you propose? we propose only traditional Tuscan cuisine, we have our experienced "mamma chef" performing the favorites family recipes. At the property we grow our own vegetables and spices totally organic and exclusively for our restaurant as well as our extra virgin olive oil. Can we settle the bill on arrival? Yes however we prefer to settle the bill on departure so all possible incidentals are considered in a single invoice. We accept all major credit cards. What is the cost of extra services or items I can buy at the residence? You find your room a full list of services and items with their prices. How can I make my laundry? We provide a laundry service. In your apartment you will find a cotton bag for your cloths. Pease leave the laundry bag at the reception in the morning. Usually it takes one day to get the laundry done. The service has an extra charge. Can I smoke in the rooms/apartments? No, al the accommodations and common areas are strictly no-­‐smoking. Is there a TV in the rooms/apartments? Are there international channels (satellite TV)? Yes, all rooms have satellite TV with all major international channels. Can I use my laptop or other wireless device (i.e. Iphone) Yes we offer free Wi-­‐Fi connection in all common areas which include the reception, the dining hall, the bar, the restaurant terrace and the pool terrace and most of the accommodations Which is the nearest village or town? The nearest villages and towns are Montebenichi (1.5 km) , Ambra (5km) , Bucine (10km) , Siena (26 km), Arezzo (30 km.) Where are the nearest grocery stores or supermarkets? In Ambra or Bucine (10 min drive) How far is Florence, Siena, Pisa from the Property? Florence is at 70 Km, Siena is at 26 Km, Pisa is at 150 Km Arezzo 30km, Perugia 100 km Which is the nearest airport? Peretola Airport in Florence is at about 90 Km from the residence. Do you have a pickup or shuttle service from and to the airport? No but transfers can be arranged with local agencies MEALS AT CASA CORNACCHI BREAKFAST: Served daily in the upper terrace from 8 AM to 10 AM LUNCH: Freshly made sandwiches, salads, pasta etc. are available daily upon request only. Please see the daily special and order at the reception by 11AM DINNERS: Traditional Tuscan dinners are organized two to three times per week. The dinners are usually held by the covered panoramic terrace “Bella Vista”. The reservation is mandatory. Ask the reception for the dates, menu and reservation TAKE AWAY: You can order sandwiches and pastas to take away for picnic or eating in your villa. Please see the daily specials and order at the reception by 11AM WINE AND BAR ITEMS: You can purchase house wines and bar beverages during the reception working hours. See the price list at the reception or in the bar. In case of emergency contact: the General Manager on site or dial: 349 3990328 or 340 9930319 the Housekeeper on site or dial: 335 7435807 Medicai emergency dial 118 Police (Carabinieri) dial 112 Fire Brigades dial 115 Internet access: We offer free Wi-­‐Fi connection in all common areas which include the reception, the dining hall, the bar, the restaurant terrace and the pool terrace. Guests with their own laptop computer or other wireless device can connect from any of those public areas. If you don’t have your own computer you can use the reception facilities. This service is free of charge but only available when the reception is open. GENERAL RULES Liability: Casa Cornacchi S.r.l cannot be held responsible for any accident or injury occurred during your stay. We strongly recommend all customers to take out adequate travel insurance to cover healthcare, cancellation, travel, accident and injury, etc. Casa Cornacchi S.r.l. cannot be held responsible for the theft of any personal belongings during your stay. Guests are advised to close all doors and windows (even in isolated, country locations) when leaving the property and make use of safes for valuables, where supplied. Casa Cornacchi accepts no liability for loss or damage caused by any event which constitutes ‘force majeure’ i.e. a breakdown in the supply of gas, electricity and water attributable to public utilities. Use of pool and other facilities: Your use of the pool and resort facilities is limited to yourself and the persons you have declared on your check-­‐in form. At all times you and your family must use the pool and other facilities in a correct manner and taking normal safety precautions. Please read the warning signs before the pool. The property cannot accept responsibility for your safety. Children must be at all times under your supervision and responsibility. The property cannot accept any responsibility for injuries, accidents or damages. Pets are allowed in certain accommodation but never around the pools or other common area. Pets proprietors are responsible at all times for their behaviour and have to make sure they do not disturb other guests or damage the property. Smoking policy: To comply to European law and the preference of the vast majority of our guests for a smoke-­‐free environment, smoking is not permitted anywhere inside the accommodation and common indoor areas. Ashtrays are available in the accommodations to put your cigarette ends. Energy policy: Most of the energy used in Italy comes from fossil fuel (not renewable, highly polluting and expensive). Casa Cornacchi uses the latest technologies for energy saving (Class “A” domestic appliances, low energy-­‐consuming air conditioning devices). Please help to prevent useless waste of energy following these simple rules: · Switch the conditioning off when you leave your room/apartment. · Keep the windows and external doors closed when the air conditioning is on. · Turn all the light off when you leave your room/apartment. DRIVING DIRECTIONS AND ORIENTATION From North -­‐ Florence (airport): Follow the directions to Autostrada A1 entrance and take the direction to Roma. (When you return to the airport, take the Firenze Nord exit and follow signs for the airport.) Drive 56 km to the Exit at Valdarno (about 30-­‐40 minutes). After the tollgates turn right following signs to Arezzo and Levane and Bucine. At Levane turn right (road no. 540) and keep following signs for Bucine and Siena driving by Bucine and the villages of Capannole, Ambra, Pietraviva. About 2km after Pietraviva you find a turn on your right to Montebenichi and Casa Cornacchi. Follow the sign for Casa Cornacchi until destination (2 km). In alternative to A1 motorway exit at Firenze Certosa and take the highway to Siena. When in Siena keep staying in the highway and follow the sign to Arezzo and Perugia. After 20 KM from Siena, take the exit called "Colonna del Grillo" and follow signs to Bucine (left), after about 5 Km turn left to Montebenichi and Casa Cornacchi. Follow the sign for Casa Cornacchi until destination (2 km). From South -­‐ Rome (airport): Take the Autostrada A1 direction Firenze (Florence) and drive for about 150 Km to the exit VALDICHIANA. After the tollgate there is a roundabout, take the firts road on the right and follow the sign to SIENA-­‐ FOIANO DELLA CHIANA PERUGIA-­‐ ASSISI-­‐GUBBIO-­‐ CORTONA-­‐ RAPOLANO TERME-­‐IENA. After 1 Km turn right direction to SIENA (road n°326/73) for about 25 Km passing by the towns of Rigomagno, Rapolano Terme and Armaiolo. Take the exit called "Colonna del Grillo" and follow signs to Bucine (left), after about 5 Km turn left to Montebenichi and Casa Cornacchi. Follow the sign for Casa Cornacchi until destination (2 km). GPS coordinates: North 43, 23' 23.46 East 11, 32' 58.81 GPS Setting: Arezzo (Province) Bucine (Commune) Montebenichi (Place) Note that Casa Cornacchi has no street name, you need to put Montebenichi as final destination. On the way to the village of Montebenichi you will find the signs to Casa Cornacchi on the road. RESTAURANTS We try to keep updated this list some information may be not accurate (closing dates, kind of food due to change of management etc.). Contact us at the reception, we will advise you about the choice of restaurant, the directions and will help you to reserve. Price indicative orientation (not including wine): $=not expensive (less than 20€ per person), $$=average (20 to 40 €), $$$=expensive (above 40€) The list is in alphabetical order by the town or place. Places underlined are within 15/20 min. drive from Casa Cornacchi. The closest places to Casa Cornacchi are: Montebenichi, Ambra, Capannole, Colonna del Grillo, Castelnuovo Berardenga, San Gusmé. Ambra: Alla Corte di Bacco, open only at night (from 5pm), it offers traditional Tuscan cuisine in a very friendly ambience (lovely internal courtyard), open until late. Good also as wine bar, sometimes with live music. Closed on Wednesdays. Via Trieste 69 (Ambra main street). Tel: 0559917420. ($$) Arezzo: La Buca di San Francesco, one of the “must” when in Arezzo is visiting this restaurant just in the heart of the historic center by the Basilica di San Francesco. Beautiful interiors and excellent regional food. Closed on Mondays dinner time and on Tuesdays . Via San Francesco 1. Tel: 0575-­‐23271. ($$) Ristorante Dario e Anna, a typical local restaurant /osteria style easy accessible by car and . Closed on Monday Via Vittorio veneto 14. Tel +390575902473 . ($$) La Lancia d’Oro, a classic, fancy restaurant, right under the Vasari Loggia on the main square (Piazza Grande), possibly the best location in town. Closed on Mondays. Piazza Grande 19. Tel: 0575-­‐ 21033. ($$$) Other restaurant recommended in Arezzo historic center: Il Grottino, Via madonna del prato 1, Tel 0577-­‐302537 – Osteria dei Mercanti, Via di Ser Petraccolo 9. Tel. 0575.24330 Asciano: Rosticceria La Brace, dine in or take out the best home style cooking in the area. Daily specials for lunch and dinner, good food, nice people and inexpensive. Closed Tuesdays. Via Mameli 9, just around the corner from the main piazza with town hall and bakery. Tel: 0577-­‐
718056. ($) Ristorante Pizzeria Piccolo Mondo, simple, unexpensive place, good for a quick lunch. Closed Mondays. Piazza Della Repubblica. Tel: 0577-­‐364208. ($) Bagno Vignoni Osteria La Parata, good Tuscan home-­‐style cooking, very enjoyable for casual lunch or dinner, pleasant outdoor and inside seating. Open every day. Many consider it the best restaurant in town. 0577 887508. ($) Osteria Del Leone, the oldest restaurant in the village offers an excellent regional and local (Valdorcia) recipes. Closed Mondays . Via di Mulini 2. 0577.887300. ($$) Bettolle: 1 km from the Val di Chiana A1 exit: Betulia, very good Tuscan cooking, standard pastas and grilled meats. Closed Saturdays. Via Vittorio Veneto 21, just inside the town from the main road and intersection to Sinalunga. Tel: 0577-­‐624131.($) Buonconvento: I Poggioli, best cooking in central Siena Province, worth a long drive, serving fresh seasonal dishes, home-­‐made pasta, excellent seafood, big salads, also pizza in the evenings. Superb value for such delicious food. Large outdoor area. Closed Mondays and also Tuesdays for lunch. English spoken. Via Tassi 6. One block in front of the train station, in the new town, there’s a pub in the corner. Tel: 0577-­‐806-­‐546.($) TuscanHouse top choice for quality and price. Brolio castle: Osteria del Castello This beautiful castle belonged to Barone Bettino Ricasoli (1809-­‐1880), Prime Minister during the Italy’s unification, then in 1874 he defined of the Chianti Classico blend formula. Closed on Thursdays. Castello di Brolio. Tel 0577 747277 ($$) Capannole: Antico Portale, pizzeria (traditional wood oven) and restaurant with a lovely garden. Good selection of traditional recipes and wine. A locals favourite. Closed on Tuesdays. Via La Bottega 37, Road 540 (after Ambra on the way to Bucine, turn left after the little village of Capannole). Tel: 055 9955514. ($) ($$) Non Vedo L’Ora, this is not actually a restaurant but rather a convenience store that sell grocery and some food locally made (roasted chicken, first courses, cold meats). You can eat in or take away. Some food is really good and definitely the best value around. This is also the only grocery shop that it’s open from 8am to 10pm including Sundays. It is just next door to Antico Portale restaurant (see above), after Ambra on the way to Bucine, on the left after the little village of Capannole . Tel 055 995 55 66 ($) Castelnuovo Berardenga: La Bottega del 30 an historical restaurants in Castelnuovo serving original country cooking and a vaste selection of wines. Closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays. Via S. Caterina, 2 -­‐ Località Villa a Sesta. Tel 0577 359226 ($$$) Osteria al Prato, located in Castelnuovo main square with a nice terrace, offers regional cuisine with a touch of Napoli (the owner is from that city) . Closed on ???. Piazza Marconi. Tel 0577-­‐
355411 ($) Trattoria della Berardenga, simple family cuisine, always crowded by locals, great value for money. When is very crowded the service is very slow. Good for a quick lunch . Closed on Mondays. Via Chianti 70 (just off Castelnuovo) Tel 0577 355547 ($) Il Convito di Curina, well known for its beautiful terrace overlooking siena and the Chianti hills, this restaurant offer traditional cuisine and an extensive wine and champagne list. Closed on Wednesdays. Strada provinciale 62 – Località Curina Tel 0577 355647 ($$) Castelnuovo dell’Abate, Sant'Antimo monastery near Montalcino: Antica Osteria del Bassomondo: good Tuscan cooking. Closed Mondays. Make a reservation for lunch when visiting the monastery. Via di Bassomondo, 7 . Tel: 0577-­‐ 835619 ($) Locanda Sant'Antimo: good home style cooking, offers snacks and unexpensive lunch menu. Closed Wednesdays. The other trattoria near Sant'Antimo, with large outdoor terrace. Via Bassomondo 8 Tel: 0577-­‐ 835615. ($) Cavriglia, Pappo Sileno: excellent restaurant it offers. Closed on Tuesdays. Piazza Don Alcide Lazzeri Tel 0575 448160. ($$) Civitella in Valdichiana, L’Antico Borgo: excellent restaurant It offers sophisticated traditional cuisine. Very nice ambience in the beautiful village of Civitella (which is worthy a visit especially at sunset anyway), excellent service and wine list. Closed on Tuesdays. Piazza Don Alcide Lazzeri Tel 0575 448160. ($$) Ristorante Pizzeria Il Vicolo: on the main square of Civitella with typical pizzeria menu and restaurant. The real value of this place is the wonderful view from its terrace. Beautiful setting for summer evenings (but bring a pullover). Closed on Mondays. Tel 0575448037 ($) ($$). Colle val d’elsa: Ristorante Arnolfo, best cuisine in Siena Province, with Michelin stars. Tasting menus, 6 courses for about $60, a' la carte entrees from $20. Excellent wine list. Have a memorable lunch or dinner when driving by to San Gimignano or Volterra. Food is elevated to a fine art, service is professional, dining room is comfortable and dressing up is not required. Closed Tuesdays. Via XX Settembre 50, in the center of the upper old town. Tel: 0577-­‐920-­‐549. ($$$) Colonna del grillo: Il Bivacco, traditional pizzeria and family cuisine, very informal and handy being on the main road at just 4 km from Casa Cornacchi on the way to Siena. Pizza and food can be taken away. Closed on Wednesday. Colonna del Grillo it’s the name of an old crossroad. Tel 0577 352009 ($) Gaiole in Chianti: La Grotta della Rana, in the enchanted hamlet of San Sano, you will love this osteria. Great hospitality and good simple food. Just all you need. The village of San Sano is so small that you will not miss it! Closed on Wednesday . Tel: 0577-­‐ 746020 ($$) Lucignano in valdichiana (Arezzo): Ristorante La Tavernetta, good local cooking, specialty is mushrooms and truffles, with outdoor dining. Closed on Mondays. Via Roma 15, in center of town. Tel: 0575-­‐836-­‐568 ($) Montalcino: Boccon di Vino, excellent and creative Tuscan cuisine. Closed Tuesdays. The best view in Tuscany from the terrace. Half a mile before town, on the left coming from Via Cassia. Tel: 0577-­‐848-­‐233 ($$) Ristorante il Moro, good home-­‐style cooking, popular with the locals. Closed Thursdays. Via Mazzini 44, down the street from city hall, center of town. Tel: 0577-­‐849-­‐384 ($) Locanda Pane & Vino, excellent local cooking at a working farm. Good food and friendly service. Closed Thursdays. Follow signs from the main road about 3 km. Tel: 0577-­‐847-­‐063 ($) Taverna dei Barbi, not recommended. This is a tourist-­‐trap. Go to Boccon di Vino below Montalcino, also most restaurants in-­‐town serve good food. Montebenichi: Osteria l’Orciaia, pure traditional Tuscan cooking, honestly one of the best. Mentioned in Michelin Red Guide, this is the closest restaurant to Casa Cornacchi. Closed Tuesdays. Make reservations for dinner in high season (June-­‐September). Tel: 055 9910067. ($$) Ristorante Pizzeria La Leccarda, only 2 km from Casa Cornacchi, just at intersection with state road n. 540. Good regional food with some fish recipes and pizza to eat in or take away. Very reasonable prices and good selection of wines. Closed Mondays. Bivio Felciai di Montebenichi 30. Tel: 055 055996776. ($$) Montepulciano Trattoria Diva e Maceo, good Tuscan food with all the local dishes. Closed Tuesdays. Via di Gracciano nel Corso 90, just inside the northern gate. Tel: 0578-­‐716-­‐951. ($) Osteria Acquacheta, excellent Tuscan cooking, best place in touristy Montepulciano and the local favorite. Simple rustic place, great selection of vegetables and daily specials. Just down from Piazza Grande, past Teatro Poliziano. Via del Teatro 22. Closed Tuesdays. Tel: 0578-­‐758443. ($) La Grotta, a classic restaurant with refined foods and the perfect place to enjoy the Vino Nobile wines. Seasonal specialties, truffles, porcini mushrooms, game, fresh pasta. Next to the San Biagio church, below the town on the west side. Tel: 0578-­‐757-­‐607. ($$) Osteria di Nottola, delicious food at this roadside Osteria, stop here on the way to the vineyards. Last time I had excellent ravioli and grilled salmon from the daily lunch menu, inexpensive. Favorite place of the locals. About 5 minute drive northeast from Montepulciano, near the new regional hospital. Walk thrugh the bar, restaurant is in the back. Open every day. Tel: 0578-­‐707-­‐
114. ($) Monte Uliveto Maggiore Abbey: Ristorante La Torre, local Tuscan cooking. Closed Tuesdays. Make reservations for lunch at the terrace when visiting the abbey. Tel: 0577-­‐707-­‐022. ($$)* Montevarchi: Osteria di Rendola, The cuisine is based on typically Tuscan dishes which have been revived by the fantasy and ability of the chef in harmony with the beauty and atmosphere of the setting. Open veryday. Loc. Rendola, Montevarchi (AR), Tel. 055 9707491. ($$) Pienza: La Pergola, excellent Italian cooking, superb home-­‐made pastas, creative menu. Also pizza and fish in the evenings, outside dining. Closed Mondays. Located in the new-­‐town area along the main road. Driving from Pienza towards San Quirico. Via dell'Acero 2. Tel: 0578-­‐
748051. ($) Latte di Luna, typical Tuscan cooking, with the best homemade pici and grilled meats, maialino is the house specialty. Closed Tuesdays. Nice outside dining. Via San Carlo 2, east end of main street, just inside the gate. Tel: 0578-­‐748-­‐606. ($) Ristorante del Falco, good Tuscan cooking, homemade pasta and grilled meats. Closed Fridays. Piazza Dante Alighieri 7, next to the park, outside of old town. Tel: 0578-­‐748-­‐551. ($) San Gusme’ La Porta del Chianti, good Tuscan cuisine in the charming quaint village of San Gusmè (that worths a visit anyway), only 4km from Casa Cornacchi. Closed Wednesdays. San Gusmè main square. 0577-­‐358010. ($$) Radda in Chianti Osteria di Volpaia, good Tuscan cuisine with some influences of Sicily and Naples (where the chefs come from). The osteria is located in the beautiful castle of Volpaia near Greve. Closed ???. Località Volpaia-­‐Coltassala. Tel. 0577-­‐738066. ($$) La Bottega, cucina contadina (farmer’s cuisine) a sit is written in its door sign. It offers simple but excellent traditional recipes and a nice setting with a lovely terrace for the summer days. Closed on Tuesdays. Piazza della Torre 1, Volpaia. Tel. 0577-­‐738001 ($) Rapolano Terme Trattoria La Patria, a locals favorite in one of the side street of the historic center. Small, unpretentious place offering excellent food based only on family recipes. Menu change everyday so ask for the daily special. A real good value for money. Closed on Sundays. Via Garibaldi, 12. Tel. 0577-­‐ 724464. ($) Siena Enoteca i Terzi, located in the historic earth of Siena with wonderful brick vaulted rooms. Possibly one of the best restaurant in town. It offers local cuisine, the menu chamges every two weeks. Closed Sundays. Located just off the Campo, on Via dei Termini 7. Tel:0577-­‐ 44329. ($$) Osteria Le Logge, good Tuscan cuisine. Charming old-­‐world restaurant, best tables are in the main dining room on the ground floor, lots of ambiance. Also outside seating. Closed Sundays. Located just off the Campo, on Via del Porrione 33. Tel:0577-­‐48013. ($$) Tullio ai Tre Cristi, a long established and reputed restaurant in the heart of Siena, close to Provenzano church 5 min walk from Piazza del Campo, much loved by locals (managers and bankers use its private facilities for business and informal dinners). Excellent fish cuisine. Closed ???. Vicolo di Provenzano 17, Tel. 0577-­‐280608 . ($$$) Il Mestolo, famous for the Fiorentina steak but also simple and healty recipes. Via Fiorentina 81. Closed on Wednesdays. 0577-­‐ 51531 ($$) Osteria il Grattacielo, little corner Osteria seats about dozen people, good and inexpensive antipasto platters and sandwiches, sometimes hot soups or pasta. Go to the counter and point to what you want. Best value in Siena. Closed Sundays. Located at the corner Via Pontani (8) and an arched walkway from the main drag with a newspaper kiosk in that corner. 0577-­‐289-­‐326 ($) Osteria Nonna Gina, best authentic home-­‐style cooking in Siena. Closed Mondays. Pleasant rustic dining room and a few tables outside, friendly service. Located about 7-­‐minute walk up from the Duomo, at the gates of Due Porti: Pian dei Mantellini 2. 0577-­‐287-­‐247 ($) Ristorante Medio Evo, excellent Tuscan cuisine in a medieval dining hall. Closed Thursdays. Located 2 blocks from main street in the center, on the street to the San Francesco parking area. Via dei Rossi 40. Tel: 0577-­‐280-­‐315. ($$) Liberamente Osteria, excellent Tuscan coking in a beautiful setting, right in the main square Piazza del Campo. Very pleasant outdoor seating with a view on the piazza. Closed on Tuesday. Piazza Il Campo 27. Tel: 0577-­‐274733. ($$) Ristorante La Capannina, good local cooking, large modern restaurant and pizzeria. Closed Mondays. Located just a few kilometers south along Via Cassia from Siena, with plenty of parking. Via Cassia Sud 224. Tel: 0577-­‐378-­‐001. ($) Other Restaurants in Siena: ALLA SPERANZA P.zza del Campo, 33/34 Tel. 0577-­‐280190, BAGOGA V.della Galluzza, 26 Tel. 0577-­‐282208. MUGOLONE V. dei Pellegrini, 8 Tel. 0577-­‐
283235, IL BIONDO V. del Rustichetto, 10 Tel. 0577-­‐280739 . Terranuova Bracciolini Osteria Il Canto del Maggio, considered one of the best restaurant of Montevarchi area. Family run with typical food of the area with a somewhat more sophisticated than the norm. Closed ?. loc. Penna Alta, Terranuova Bracciolini (Ar), tel. 055-­‐
9705147. ($$) INTERESTING PLACES Major and minor places to see around Casa Cornacchi Arezzo (30 km 30min. drive) Frescoes by Piero della Francesca and Crucifix by Cimabue: on reservation at 0575900404 or: www.pierodellafrancesca.it and www.cimabuearezzo.it Of Etruscan origin, Arezzo is located at the junction of the four valleys that constitute its province: Val di Chiana, Valdarno, Valtiberina and Casentino. Its strategic location strongly influenced the development of this town: Arezzo was one of the major Etruscan lucumonies (kingdom) and then a strategic Roman city, a free commune in the Middle Ages under Bishops Guglielmino degli Ubertini (1278 -­‐ 1289) and Guido Tarlati (1313 -­‐ 1327), and then ended under the command of the Florentine families. The artistic flowering of Etruscan and Roman times can now be seen in the Archaeological Museum, that exhibits many bronze and terracotta artworks. Arezzo's main monuments are the S. Francis Church with its world famous frescoes by Piero della Francesca, the Parish Church of S. Maria, a beautiful Romanesque church with a sumptuous decorated facade and a famous altar painting by Pietro Lorenzetti. Piazza Vasari, or rather Piazza Grande, as it is called by the Aretines, was and still is the heart of the city and now hosts a nice Antique Market on the first Sunday of every month, and the "Joust of the Saracen", an antique medieval tournament, on the third Sunday of June and first Sunday of September. Numerous palaces and tower-­‐houses contribute to the picturesque aspect of the square. The Cathedral hosts a XIII century marble main altar ( Arca di S. Donato ) and also shows beautiful stained-­‐glass windows by G. Marcillat and the Chapel of "Our lady of Comfort"; the S. Domenico Church is famous for the newly restored crucifix by Cimabue; nearby one finds the finely decorated house of Giorgio Vasari. Firenze (75 km – 1h. drive) Florence is the capital city of Tuscany. With almost half a million inhabitants, it lies on the Arno River at the foot of the Appenines. The cultural and historical impact of Florence is overwhelming, its museums, palaces and churches contain more art than any other city in Europe. 70% of the Western world’s most important art can be found in Italy, of this, 50% can be found in Florence. This is in large part a result of the great explosion of artistic and architectural activity that occurred during the Renaissance. See a comprehensive list of Florence places of interest (and opening times) below, at the end of this section. Cortona (60 km – 1h. drive) Of Etruscan origin, Cortona is set on one of the slopes of Mount S. Egidio and overlooks the Val di Chiana. It still retains its Etruscan and Medieval walls that enclose fine stone buildings, narrow paved Roman perpendicular streets, with resultant beautiful sights and fantastic views. From the top of the town downwards one finds the Sanctuary of S. Margherita, patron Saint of town with S. Marco, the small picturesque Church of S. Cristoforo, along the trail pilgrims used to walk to reach the Sanctuary, the XV century Church of S. Niccolò, that exhibits a fine banner by Luca Signorelli, the Church of S. Francis. Then one reaches the main square of the town with the Medieval Town Hall Building. Behind it one finds Palazzo Casali ( now seat of the Etruscan Academy and Etruscan Museum ) Piazza Signorelli with its theatre, the Cathedral and Diocesan Museum ( that exhibits a world famous Annunciation by Beato Angelico ), and via Jannelli with its typical medieval little houses. Abbazia di Farneta Not far from Cortona on the way to Foiano della Chiana, this Abbey has antique origins: it was founded by Benedictine monks before 1000 and still retains its archaic structure. Monte San Savino It dates back to medieval times. Its most interesting buildings are inside the main walls: the Cassero, Gothic architecture of Sienese style, the S. Chiara Church (now private and closed to the public) that has some nice terracottas by Sansovino and Della Robbia. Along Corso Sangallo one finds the Loggia dei Mercanti, by Sansovino, and opposite the Palazzo di Monte ( now Town Hall ) by Antonio da Sangallo il Vecchio. Both are renaissance buildings, the former is particularly interesting for its fine portico, and the latter for its architectural layout, its massive facade and its picturesque garden. Lucignano An hilltop town overlooking the Val di Chiana, Lucignano has Roman origins and retains a peculiar elliptial layout. Inside the main walls, streets run concentrically, ending in the centre with the Collegiata di S. Michele, on top of a semi-­‐elliptical panoramic staircase. The Town Museum and the nearby Church of S. Francis exhibit some beautiful artworks of local and Sienese artists, like the reliquary tree, a notable piece of antique goldsmith work. Monterchi A small urban centre located north of Arezzo on the way to Sansepolcro is nowadays important because of the presence of the "Madonna del Parto"(visit: 9.00-­‐13.00/14.00-­‐18.00), an excellent fresco by Piero della Francesca. Sansepolcro Originally built as oratory to keep the relics of the Holy Sepulchre, then powerful Abbey of the Camaldoli monks, Sansepolcro remains as the original small urban centre decorated by fine renaissance palaces. Famous especially for giving birth to Piero della Francesca in the XV century, it exhibits several masterpieces of the artist like the "Madonna della Misericordia" and the "Resurrection" in its Town Museum. The Cathedral has several artworks of the XIV and XV centuries and a very old crucifix of the IX-­‐X century called the "Holy Face". Other interesting buildings are the Church of S.Francis, the Medici renaissance Fortress, planned by Giuliano da Sangallo and the area at the centre called Piazza di Torre di Berta ( antique tower that was destroyed during second World War ). Anghiari Of Roman origin, Anghiari was an important medieval and renaissance urban centre, as one can see from the antique buildings that run along the steep streets of its historic centre. The elegant Palazzo Taglieschi contains mainly artworks relating to popular traditions connected with aspects of domestic life and farm work. The are also superb medieval and renaissance sculptures like a painted Madonna by Jacopo della Quercia and terracotta's by the Della Robbia school. Poppi Hilltop town situated in Casentino Valley. Its majestic castle can be seen from far off: it was originally built by the Guidi Family and then underwent renovations perhaps done by Arnolfo di Cambio ( 1291 ). The castle can be visited and is characterised by a beautiful courtyard with bold staircases and wooden galleries. The ground floor rooms are used for exhibitions and the first floor rooms are occupied by the Rilliana Library with its precious manuscripts. In Poppi one also admires the S. Fedele Church, built along the main walls ( the belltower was built out of a turret of the main wall );one finds there nice paintings by Il Poppi, Jacopo Ligozzi and Passignano painters. La Verna Set on top of a steep cliff in Casentino, this Franciscan Monastery was founded in 1214 and became a sacred place where S. Francis got the stigmata. Its several churches and chapels are decorated with wonderful glazed terracotta's by the Della Robbia school: the Annunciation in the Chiesa Maggiore and the Crucifixion in the Chiesa delle Stimmate, both by Andrea della Robbia, are two masterpieces. Camaldoli Situated in the heart of the great Casentino forest, the Monastery and its Hermitage were founded by S. Romualdo in 1012. The Monastery with Church and Guest House constitute the main area and show paintings by G. Vasari; the Hermitage, set in an isolated spot of the forest, was the original seat of the Camaldoli monks and has several isolated cells that can only be partly visited. Montevarchi Developed as an agricultural and market centre in the Middle Ages, Montevarchi now has the Museo Paleontologico with vegetable and animal fossils of the Pliocene Age and in the Collegiata di S. Lorenzo (widely renovated in the XVIII century ) a Museum that exhibits important artworks by local artists and a beautiful terracotta temple by the Della Robbia -­‐ built to keep the precious relic of the "Holy Milk". San Giovanni Valdarno Founded as "terra nuova", ie. a fortress built by the Florentines to protect territory together with Terranuova and Castelfranco di Sopra, S. Giovanni Valdarno still shows the antique Palazzo Pretorio designed by Arnolfo di Cambio -­‐ now Town Hall. The Basilica di S. Maria delle Grazie houses the adjoining Museum where, among various notable artworks, one can admire one of the three Annunciations by Beato Angelico (the other one is in Cortona and a third in Madrid ), brought there from the nearby convent of Montecarlo. Gròpina One of the most beautiful Romanesque parish churches in the area, the most important Church of Valdarno, the Pieve of S. Pietro in Gròpina is set in the countryside close to Loro Ciuffenna, surrounded by massive olive trees. It is built in sandstone and has three aisles with columns decorated by peculiar and unusually well carved capitals: they show symbolic representations of the Romanesque period. The round pulpit is decorated with nice bas-­‐reliefs that show allegoric and fantastic figures. Siena (26 Km – 30min. drive) Built on top of three tufaceous (particular kind of soil) hills at the connection between Valdelsa and Valdarbia, Siena dates back to Etruscan time ( "Saina" was the name of a famous Etruscan family from Chiusi ) and received the Roman citizenship in 90 B.C., although today nothing remains of that time. Siena became a powerful city thanks to the increasing importance of the Via Francigena, that used to run from Lucca to Rome through Siena -­‐ a trail that was safer than the consular roads, because it ran far from the coast and from the Appennines. The city flourished during the Middle Ages, when its merchants and bankers became powerful. Most monumental buildings were built during this time: the Cathedral, The Palazzo Pubblico, the Torre del Mangia, the Palazzo Tolomei ( the oldest private palace in Siena ) and also all the paintings by Pietro and Ambrogio Lorenzetti, Duccio di Buoninsegna and Simone Martini date back to the same time. Piazza del Campo is world famous because of the Palio, the horse race that is run every 2nd July -­‐ dedicated to the Madonna of Provenzano -­‐ and 16th August -­‐ dedicated to Maria Assunta. The shell-­‐shaped square is the public space of town: on the southeast side is the long facade of the Palazzo Pubblico and the Torre del Mangia, on the north side are several beautiful old palaces with mullioned windows, and its centre is decorated by the Fonte Gaia by Jacopo della Quercia ( 1419 ). Abbazia di Monte Oliveto Maggiore Founded in 1313 by Giovanni Tolomei, the Abbey nestles on a panoramic hill, surrounded by a large park with cypress and olive trees. Its importance is determined by the presence of notable frescoes by Signorelli and Sodoma -­‐ both valuable Renaissance painters -­‐ representing the history of S. Benedetto. Montalcino (55 km – 40min. drive) Hilltop town surrounded by olive groves and famous Brunello vineyards of antique origins. During the Middle Ages it was under the power of Siena, who built the pentagonal fortress and the Palazzo dei Priori, now Town Hall. Its museums exhibits notable artworks by Sienese artists of XIV and XV century. Abbazia di S. Antimo ( visits to the Abbey:10.30-­‐12.30/15.00-­‐18.00) The current church was built in 1118 on a pre-­‐existing church that was ostensibly founded by Carlo Magno. All in travertine and onyx, the abbey is a notable example of Romanesque architecture with French influence. It still shows several antique bas-­‐reliefs with interesting allegoric representations. Bagno Vignoni This small town has a peculiar urban layout that proves its antique origin. The main square has been replaced by a large thermal bath that dates back to Roman times. Pienza (60 km – 50min. drive) This beautiful town was completely planned and built in the mid XV century by the request of Pope Pius II (Piccolomini ), according to the architectural theories of Leon Battista Alberti. Built by Bernardo Rossellino together with Alberti, it is a magnificent example of a renaissance town with Corso Rossellino, Cathedral, Piazza Pio II and Palazzo Piccolomini. Montepulciano (50 km – 40min. drive) Founded on top of a hill that overlooks the Valdichiana, Montepulciano is an antique town with a renaissance historic centre that was built by Florentine architects ( Michelozzo, Antonio da Sangallo il Vecchio ) during the long domination by Florence. Piazza Grande is the heart of town with the Town Hall building, that reminds us of Palazzo Vecchio in Florence, the Cathedral, that houses several XV century paintings, Palazzo Contucci and Palazzo Tarugi. The three streets Gracciano, Voltaia and Opio and Poliziano-­‐ that run one after the other -­‐ constitute the main streets of town and here one finds all major palaces. Outside the main walls one finds the beautiful church of S. Biagio, magnificent artwork by Antonio da Sangallo il Vecchio. Radda in Chianti (30 km – 30min. drive) Built in a panoramic location among woods and vineyards, Radda lies in the heart of the Sienese Chianti region. From 1415 it became the head town of the Chianti League and still retains its original medieval layout. The Fattoria of Montevertine, near Radda, houses the Museo del Chianti, with exhibitions relating to popular traditions connected with aspects of domestic life and farm work ( visits on reservation ). The nearby Fattoria Castello di Volpaia also offers the possibility of visiting its winery and olive press ( on reservation ). Badia Coltibuono Originally a monastery depending on the Vallombrosa Abbey, Badia a Coltibuono later became a farm with its private villa; of the old monastery one still finds the church dedicated to S. Lorenzo (On reservation it is possible to visit its winery and do wine tasting). Gaiole in Chianti Surrounded by woods, olive groves and vineyards Gaiole is right in the heart of the Chianti region; the nearby village of Vèrtine still retains its original medieval layout. Castello di Brolio Another astonishing castle belonging to the Barone Ricasoli is open to visits and on reservation one may also visit its winery and taste its famous wines. (10.00-­‐12.00/15.00-­‐17.00) Castello di Meleto This beautiful castle is set on top of a hill in the Chianti region; originally a medieval fortified farm with circular turrets and frescoed rooms, Meleto is now open to visits and one may also taste wines that are produced here. (Mon/Fri 10.00-­‐12.00/15.00-­‐17.00) Castello di Montebenichi (2km) We suppose that the ancient castle of Montebenichi has its origin in a Lombard fort established on previous Etruscan-­‐Roman settlement. The origin of Lombard Montebenichi is confirmed by the same name that, apparently due to reduction of "Benicolo", a diminutive turn of Lombard "Benuald". From the early building it remains the tower and some stretches of the walls, dating from the late fifteenth or early sixteenth century. Chianti Region The Chianti region covers a vast area of Tuscany and includes within its boundaries some of the most beautiful Tuscany natural sceneries, many castles, hamlets and villages. The best way to visit it is literally driving around with no destination in mind. You will understand its charm behind every hill or road curve. Chianti describes aldo a wine: Denominazione di origine controllata (DOC) and Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG). Within the collective Chianti region more than 8 million cases of wines classified as DOCG level or above are produced each year. Monteriggioni Famous for its medieval military walls with 14 turrets, Monteriggioni still retains its original layout and atmosphere. San Gimignano (70 km – 50min. drive) Developed as market town at the junction of the Via Francigena with the Via Pisana, San Gimignano is world famous for its towers built during the XIII century. The most important buildings and monuments are Porta S. Giovanni, built in 1262, with the nearby Museo di Arti e Mestieri, the Arco dei Becci, ending in Piazza della Cisterna, a peculiar and unusual triangular square all in red bricks and surrounded by XIII century tower houses; piazza Duomo, the heart of town with the Collegiata church (that houses famous frescoes by Taddeo di Bartolo and Benozzo Gozzoli), the Palazzo del Popolo, with the Museo Civico and the Palazzo del Podestà. Volterra (80 km – 1h.30min. drive) Founded by the Etruscans, Volterra lies on top of a hill that overlooks the valleys of Cecina and Era. Its massive town walls were reduced during the Middle Ages, in order to enclose the main streets of town. Its centre runs around Piazza dei Priori, with a beautiful XIII palace built between 1208 and 1254, one of the oldest palaces of Tuscany. In front is the Palazzo Pretorio with the typical "Torre del Porcellino", and behind one finds the Cathedral, that houses notable artworks like a wooden XIII century sculptured group and several paintings. Outside the main walls one may still see the Roman theatre of the I century a.C. The environment around Volterra is severely marked by the "Balze", clay hills that are partly ruined by continuous landslides that have covered part of its town walls and the oldest Etruscan tombs. Perugia (96 km – 1h.30min. drive) Capital of Umbria, Perugia is set on a panoramic hill and has Etruscan origins. The beauty of the palaces of its historic centre show how it flourished during the Middle Ages -­‐ most of them were built in the XII century. Perugia fell several times under the power of the Papacy, that built the Rocca Paolina in the XVI century, a fortress now hidden underground but visible thanks to the presence of an underground moving staircase climbing up to the town centre. The political and religious centre of Perugia contains numerous notable monuments and buildings: the Fontana Maggiore, built by Giovanni Pisano in 1275/78, the Cathedral of S. Lorenzo, the Palazzo dei Priori, now seat of the Galleria Nazionale dell'Umbria, and various old colleges like the Collegio del Cambio, whose rooms are completely frescoed by Perugino. Assisi Set on the slopes of Mount Subasio, Assisi is the town of S. Francis. Its medieval historic centre is arranged along the original Roman streets; on the Piazza del Comune there are major palaces like the Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo, the Palazzo dei Priori and the temple dedicated to Minerva. World famous monuments and buildings are the Franciscan monastery with its Basilica widely decorated by Giotto, the XIV century S. Chiara church, the S. Maria Maggiore church with the frescoes by Pinturicchio, and the Rocca Maggiore set on a cliff overlooking town. The S. Maria degli Angeli church houses the Porziuncola chapel, where the Franciscan order was founded, the Transito chapel, originally the cell where S. Francis died and the Roseto chapel. A few kilometres from here one may visit the Franciscan Eremo delle Carceri, built by S. Bernardino da Siena in XV century. Gubbio Founded by the ancient population of Umbri -­‐ we have proof documented in the Eugubine tablets of I century b.C. -­‐ Gubbio was a centre of primary importance during Roman times (as one may see from the presence of thermal baths, theatre and mausoleum). During the Middle Ages it had its major urban development with the construction of the city's gateways and aqueduct. The central Via dei Consoli gives an idea of how Gubbio must have looked then, with its palaces with narrow ogival doorways and windows (Palazzo del Bargello).Piazza Grande is a real medieval architectural achievement in its "hanging" between the Palazzo dei Consoli and the Palazzo Pretorio, never finished, which represents the spirit of eugubine gothic architecture. The nearby Cathedral was built in XIII century and still has its original simple facade with ogival portal and rose window. The construction of the Palazzo Ducale was ordered by Federico da Montefeltro and encloses medieval buildings in renaissance style, connecting them to a Corte D'Onore (designed by Francesco di Giorgio). Deruta For centuries economically was linked to the production of ceramics. Most of its valuable works are in the Museo Regionale della Ceramica. SHOPPING and BASIC NEEDS The town of Ambra (5kms) has all necessities: Groceries, some international newspaper at the local newsagent, fruit and vegetables, excellent meat market, bakery , flower shop, Bar -­‐ cigarettes – telephone, hair salons, bank, gas station, dry cleaners, pharmacy, various doctors and dentist (the nearest hospital in Montevarchi, about 25 mins. Or Siena), garages for all types of cars The town of Bucine (about 15 minutes drive) has an even better selection of shops as well as a small supermarket and the nearest train station. The town of Montevarchi is a major town and has a huge super market and has the hospital and a major train station. TOWN MARKETS: Tuesday morning -­‐ Ambra (small) Wednesday morning -­‐ Bucine (small) or Siena (big) Thursday morning -­‐ Rapolano (small) or Montevarchi (big) Saturday morning – San Giovanni Valdarno Friday morning – Terranuova Bracciolini or Pergine SHOP HOURS: Shops are generally open from 8 am to 1 pm and from 4 pm to 8 pm. Sunday: everything is closed except bars and tourist-­‐related business. Monday: all shops that have nothing to do with food are closed in the morning. Tuesday: everything is open Wednesday: everything is open in the morning and all food shops are closed in the afternoon. Thursday: everything is open Friday: everything is open Saturday: everything is open FASHION DESIGNER OUTLETS The area near Florence, along the Arno river valley, is traditionally the place where many high fashion names keep their factories. This industrial area is now a well known fashion district and the factory outlets became a destination form many travellers PRADA OUTLET (SPACE) Some of you probably know that this is the Prada outlet, except no signs along the road will say "Prada Outlet". It is in the outskirt of Montevarchi along SS69. Tel 05591901. After Levane, on the way to Montevarchi you will pass under a railway bridge, at the first light turn right and follow the crowds… (ca. 30 min drive) THE MALL Less than ½ hour from the Prada outlet, also along SS69 (going north up the hill) is a new beautiful modern outlet mall called – THE MALL It has the following stores: Armani, Gucci, Bottega Venetta, YSL, Loro Piana and Sergio Rossi. (ca. 50 min. drive) VALDICHIANA FASHION VILLAGE A brand new built village with about hundred fashion shops (all main brands) often at discounted price. From Casa Cornacchi take the highway Siena-­‐Bettolle-­‐Perugia direction Perugia and exit at Bettolle -­‐ Valdichiana -­‐ A1 motorway (ca. 30 min.) BARBERINO DESIGNER OUTLET One of the biggest mall of Tuscany with 95 shops representing all Italian and international fashion designers at discounted prices (ca. 30 min.). Open everyday from 10 am to 8 pm (weekend until 9 pm), on summer months it opens from 2 pm. Closed on Mondays during winter months. From Casa Cornacchi take the A1 direction Bologna, exit soon after Florence at Barberino del Mugello. The mall is by the motorways exit Fashion addicted can plan a half or one full day shopping tour i.e. starting from Valdichiana then proceeding along the A1 North stopping at Valdarno (Prada) and Incisa (The Mall) through A1 and Barberino del Mugello (Designer Outlet) motorway. NEARBY ANTIQUES / ARTS AND CRAFTS MARKETS Arezzo st
1 Sunday and preceding Saturday of the month. This is Italy’s most reputed antiques market. Piazza Grande Florence Il Cortile del Colezionista. 09-­‐00-­‐18.00. Second Sunday of month. Piazza S. Spirito Also Last Sunday of month. 09.00 – 13.00 and 15.00 – 18.00. Piazza dei Ciompi Pisa nd
All day, 2 Saturday and Sunday of month (not July/August). Piazza dei Cavalieri. Scarperia 2nd Sunday of month, May – October. Northeast of Florence. Pistoia 2nd Sunday of month, except August.. Castiglione del Lago Summer Market, June – August. 3rd Sunday of month. Cortona 3rd Saturday and Sunday of month. Dicomano 3rd Sunday of month. Northeast of Florence Lucca 3rd Saturday and Sunday of month. Piazza Ante Minelli Siena rd
3 Sunday of month. 08.00-­‐20.00. San Domenico Marina di Grosseto 3rd Sunday of month. May – October Montevarchi 2nd Sunday of every month. Terranuova Bracciolini 3rd Sunday of every month SUGGESTED ITINERARIES Here you find some hints for tours that our guest can make by yourselves or with local experienced tour guides. The guided tour can be arranged for individual, family or small groups Whole day in Florence It’s impossible to see everything in Florence as the city’s treasures would require a year of dedicated sightseeing to fit them all in, but in a day, a great deal can be accomplished and the real spirit, culture and history of the city can be understood. For a full day out, follow the three hour itinerary printed on the previous page and after a leisurely lunch continue on with the following agenda. Head towards the Accademia Gallery, another great temple of Renaissance art and home to some of Michelangelo’s most famous works; The Four Slaves and David together with other works such as Saint Matthew (San Matteo), the Pietà di Palestrina. Much debate exists over the Four Slaves as to whether they were unfinished or were truly meant to represent tortured prisoners locked in stone. Whatever the true intention of the artist, the results are evocative and haunting. The Slaves (1519-­‐1536) were originally intended for the tomb of Pope Julius II in Rome but ended up placed in a grotto in a the Boboli gardens where they remained until 1909. The four muscular works range from virtually finished to virtually unstarted. Struggling to free themselves from the stone, they show great attention to the human body and its sinews. Michelangelo only really excelled at depicting the human body in his sculptures, in his paintings, his rendering of the nude or clothed is less successful. Why the Slaves remained unfinished no-­‐
one knows; perhaps it was because the artist never liked to leave marble too finished as if a signature of his work, labour and creativity. When looking at David, one is struck by his giant proportions and oversized head. The sculpture was originally displayed in front of the Palazzo Vecchio (a copy now replaces its) atop a plinth. David was carved from one huge block of marble and was the largest sculpture carved since classical times. Depicting the youth preparing for battle against Goliath, David represents moral strength; the triumph of good over evil. David was an emblem of civic pride, his grace and serenity reflecting the composure with which he could cast the enemy away. Whilst some have since criticised David’s awkward proportions, The nudeness of the statue removes any complicated agenda or code and presents itself in its simplest form. As well as depicting a moment of glory, it represents a basic and virile young male. All of these elements result in David being able to transcend the minds of all who view him; the learned, the aesthete, the historian, the young and old. After a much needed stop for ice cream or a cold drink, walk down to the Church of Santa Croce, known as the Pantheon of the Renaissance. The Franciscan built church was built as far away as possible from the Dominican church of Santa Maria Novella. The nave was originally frescoed by the artist Orcagno but so appalled was Vasari with the paintings that he painted over them and even excluded them from his Lives of the Artists. The basilica became known as the Mausoleum of the city’s most eminent citizens. Michelangelo’s body was brought up from Rome to Florence after his death and his tomb built by Vasari. This can be found at the front of the right aisle. Separating this tomb with that of Leonardo Bruni is an Annunciation carving by Donatello. Close to these tombs one can also found the flamboyant cenotaph built in memory of Dante, a sculpture of the rather sombre looking poet whose body remained in Ravenna after his death and his exile from Florence. Opposite these tombs on the other side of the church is the tomb of Galileo, built in 1737 after it was finally agreed to give the great and controversial scientist a Christian burial. Galileo’s tomb can be found close to that of Machiavelli. The chapels at the East end of the church (altar end) contain frescos by Giotto and his school. Unfortunately these are now badly faded. They include the Peruzzi Chapel depicting scenes from the Lives of Saint John the Baptist and John the Evangelist, whilst the Bardi chapel tells the Story of Saint Francis. These chapels are thought to be almost entirely by the hand of Giotto alone. Siena, Monteriggioni, San Gimignano. Morning departure, visit to the city of Siena and lunch. In the afternoon we continue the trip to the mediaeval village of Monteriggioni, renowned for its circular form and its 14 towers which Dante compared to the giant towers of his "Inferno". We draw the afternoon to a close with a visit to San Gimignano, one of the most beautiful and famous cities in Tuscany. Encircled by mediaeval walls, San Gimignano is noted for its numerous churches which hide exquisite works of art. Arezzo and Cortona: Departure in the morning to discover the beautiful city of Arezzo and its old historical centre. So beautiful the central square and, not too far, the Basilica of San Francesco where the great restoration project for the Piero della Francesca frescoes has recently been brought to a close. In the afternoon we continue with the visit of Cortona. Note that the first week-­‐end of each month in Arezzo histor center take place one of the most important Italian antique fairs. A tour of Arezzo can be combined with this event. Wine tasting in Montalcino and the Abbey of Sant'Antimo Morning departure, travelling over the magnificent countryside of the senese "crete" to the village of Montalcino, renown for its beauty and its famous "Brunello". Visit to a major winefarm for a guided visit and wine tasting. We continue to the Abbey of Sant'Antimo, founded, accordingly to a legend, by Charlemagne. This is a magical place, full of mediaeval atmosphere. Senese "crete" and Valdorcia Abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore, San Quirico d'Orcia, Pienza, Monticchiello. Morning departure, visit to the Abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore, mediaeval building complex encircled by cypress trees, in the heart of the magnificent countryside of the senese "crete". We continue our trip to the mediaeval village of San Quirico d'Orcia, surrounded by the gentle rolling hills of some of the loveliest countryside in Italy. After lunch, just a few kilometres away, it is the turn of Pienza, noted for its famous pecorino (sheep's milk) cheese. The afternoon can finish with a visit to Monticchiello, a little known pearl, as yet unspoilt. Narrow alley ways and charming little shops, where you can taste first rate wine and linger for dinner. Thermal spas in Rapolano Terme The springs of the Antica Querciolaia and San Giovanni in Rapolano (20 min drive) are ancient and popular since the fourth and third centuries before Christ and greatly appreciated by the Republic of Siena during the fourteenth century. The sulphuric-­‐bicarbonate-­‐calcium spring waters hundreds litres a minute at a constant temperature of 39 degrees, and the establishments offer numerous other valuable services making up and complementing the beneficial properties of the water. The thermal establishments offer also programs aiming at recuperating a better physical form in session starting from one to seven days: anti-­‐cellulite cures, weight loss, post-­‐partum, and anti-­‐stress cures. The programs based on the sulphuric waters are associated with a hypocaloric diet and physical activity in the pool, gym and woods. Thermal Spas: Bagno Vignoni, Bagni di San Filippo The area around Siena, notable for its close bonds with water, is characterised by the scarcity of its rivers and the abundance of its spas. It is an area famous for its numerous thermal watering places which have been fed by ingenious underground aqueducts since mediaeval times. The thermal spas were visited by illustrious figures and diverse pilgrims: it is not by chance that the Francigena Way winds close to the steaming pools of Bagno Vignoni. Traces of antique spas have been found everywhere. We leave in the morning to discover such atmospheric places and take a compulsory dip in the hot waters of the Bagni di San Filippo. Winery tour and wine-­‐tasting in Chianti The renowned area of Chianti enjoys a highly favourable position, within easy reach of the best known places in the whole of Tuscany: Arezzo, Florence, Siena and the Chianti area. Just a few kilometres by car will find us surrounded by the breath-­‐taking landscape of the realm of Chianti Classico. A tour of the wineries, tasting the most famous wines Italy has to offer, certainly deserves an entire day or more. Not Only Wine... Castles and Villages in the Chianti area. Our tour runs along a panoramic road which crosses the entire Chianti area and leads us to discover the most beautiful castles and medieval villages in that wonderful area. During the day, among others options, we will visit places as the famous Castle of Brolio and villages as Radda and Castellina in Chianti, where you can feel the real mediaeval atmosphere. WINES AND WINERIES Drinking a local wine when abroad always proves to be a magical experience. Perhaps it’s the association of the wine with the surrounding landscapes, memories of sites and smells, or even with a visit to a local vineyard. Perhaps the enjoyment of a good wine lies simply in the fact that when sampling wine on holiday, body and soul are relaxed and the senses are ready to try new experiences. Should you decide to indulge, remember that where people can suffer Stendhal syndrome as a result of being overwhelmed by so much art and culture, so too can you be overwhelmed by the beauty of landscape and the flavour of a good wine under the hot Italian sun…giving a name for this syndrome probably isn’t necessary! Tuscany and Umbria have been producing wine since Etruscan times, however, it is only in the past decade or so that Italian wines have become so exciting. Competition from abroad and new technology and knowledge has meant that the regions now produce some of the best wines in the world. Most towns and villages have at least one enoteca (wine shop). Enoteche tend to specialize in local wines, but stock and hold a good knowledge of the country’s more important wines as a whole. Wine bars often specialize in pairing wines and cheese or even chocolate in order to create new and profound sensory and gastronomic experiences. Visiting Estates Italian wine makers are very proud of their trade and often open their estates to members of the public. Wine making is a full time job for most producers and therefore should you wish to visit a vineyard you may need to make an appointment or telephone in advance. However, many are constantly open, especially in Chianti and signs outside the gates of an estate often welcome you in and advertise Vendita Diretta or Cantine Aperte (direct sales where you can buy bottles directly from the producer). The type of visit you receive may vary from a visit to the actual vineyards or cellars, to a simple tasting. Together with selling their wines, estates often sell grappa, olive oil and honey either from their own production or a nearby property. Many of the estates may be Agriturismo with rooms and apartments available to members of the public and an on-­‐site restaurant serving good, hearty, home cooking. The Wine Making Process Most vineyards are neatly planted following an orderly grid pattern stretching carefully along wires. Vines are usually trailed low so as they can gain warmth reflected from the ground and reduce the amount of useless woody growth. Trunks are often trained into an inverted L form or guyot from which one or two shoots from a good year’s fruit are trained horizontally, providing a good base for the following year’s growth. Vines are pruned during the winter months in order to maintain these forms and restrict any excessive or unwanted growth. In terms of good wine production “less is often more” and whilst wine laws specify a maximum yield many growers often aim lower so as to ensure that the quality of their grape is not impaired. A shrewd wine producer growing a noble wine knows that it is quality and not quantity that counts. Vine growth starts in Spring when a warmer climate encourages the growth of new shoots which are quickly attached to wires. Good weather from this point onwards is crucial to the producer as it ensures full pollination and helps prevent the growth of sub-­‐standard or malformed berries. As the grape bunch grows, the farmer cuts back any surrounding foliage so as to improve the fruit’s light exposure. Grapes develop their full colour a month before they are fully ripe. Harvest of grapes takes place between late August and October (depending on whether the grape is red or white). Dry weather at this point is of utmost importance as too much rain can lead to rot and dilution of the grape’s flavour and quality. Most Tuscan Red wines are based on the Sangiovese grape, a grape that is difficult to cultivate but which produces a wine of reasonable quality. This grape is usually blended with smaller quantities of other grapes (eg. Canaiolo, Mammolo or Ciliego) to give the wine a more complex and unique taste. The grapes for white wine are Trebbiano and Malvasia. Recent developments in Italian wine making have witnessed the introduction of different, non traditional varieties of grape to the industry, Sauvignon, Cabernet, Merlot, Syrah and Chardonnay being amongst those most popular. The colour, flavour and tannin in red wines comes from the grape skins, so red wines are first of all crushed in order to bring the skins and juice into contact. The skin remains with the juice during fermentation. The winemaker decides on how long the fermentation needs to be and how long to leave the juice and the skins together. Most reds then go into botti (barrels) to soften the wine or add a little flavour to it. Most barrels are traditionally of Slovenian origin, but in the last few years, the use of French oak barriques has become very popular. The fresh fruitiness of white wines comes from pressing the grapes immediately after picking to separate the juice from the skins. The juice is fermented on its own. Most of the region’s whites are aged in stainless steel vats, very few producers continue to use oak or wooden barrels. To an Italian, white wine is at its best when it is still young in strong contrast to the reds of the region. Vin Santo or Holy wine is produced all over Tuscany and is made from dried grapes. Their juice is fermented in small barrels containing madre, debris from the previous year’s wine. The small barrels are sealed and left for three years until the wine is considered ready for bottling. Local wine is often sold in wide based flasks in large quantities, usually of two litres and upwards. Don’t be put off by these flasks and the connotations that they have back at home. Where a straw based carafe in the UK may bring back memories of the 80s, Lambrusco and cheap, poor quality wines, what is on offer here is often very different. Whilst it will still be of outstanding value, the wine is generally very drinkable and often as pleasant as that in a “proper” bottle. Flasks can be recycled and do not require expensive packaging or marketing and are usually intended for the locals. You can even take your wine back to where you bought it for a refill! Chianti is the name of the area in Tuscany in which its namesake wine is produced. The name is really a generic one and really refers to the territory and principal grape type (San Giovese) more than anything else. Classification – DOCG versus DOC Wines in Italy are subject to a three tier classification system. DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) wines represent the very select, top wines in the country and are judged by several independent taste commissions. This category is limited to just 14 varieties. The more common DOC wines comply with strict guidelines and regulations stipulating such things as maximum yield and minimum alcohol content. DOC branding covers the majority of Italy’s good quality and affordable wines. DOCG wines are generally considered to be of a higher quality but this categorization is often compromised by the many excellent, highly respectable and noble DOC wines which are more deserving of the added “G” than some of the those already at the top. The lowest category of wine is IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica) which merely indicates a wine’s origin. Wine with no classification at all is generally referred to as Vino di Tavola (Table wine) and is normally very cheap. Morellino di Scansano Ruby red wine. Lovely, very drinkable red, slightly tannic and perfumed. Traditionally the wine of the Maremma cowboys. An excellent accompaniment to salami and cheeses. Moscadello di Montalcino Sweet white wine that provides a lovely compliment to local desserts. Parrina Whites, rosé and reds. Traditional and historical wines dating back to the Etruscans. Piombino White, red and Vin Santo of high acclaim. History stretches back to 13th century. Rosso di Montalcino Red wine of good body, provides a good accompaniment to meats, salami and cheeses. A good quality, younger and affordable alternative to expensive Bruenllo di Montalcino. Rosso di Montepulciano Good, hearty red wine. Highly recognized internationally. San Gimignano DOC designation established in 1996. Area produces a good range of whites, reds, rosé and Vin Santo. Forms part of the Colli Senesi. Most famous of all is the Vernaccia di San Gimignano. Sant’Antimo Produces a wide range of single variety wine, as well as Vino Novello and Vin Santo. Sovana Reds, vintage reds, single variety reds and rosé produced since Etruscan times. DOC classification was established in 1999. Valdichiana Well known for its sparkling white wine known as “Virgine”. Also produces good single variety reds, whites, Vin Santo and rosé. Brunello di Montalcino (red) One for wine lovers and collectors. World famous red wine of the highest quality. Should be drunk with red meat, game and cheese. Has a dry, warm, harmonious, slightly tannic taste. Carmignano (red) Red, almost garnet wine. Has a dry, smooth taste. Very well suited to roasts and cheeses. Chianti / Classico (red) Light, ruby red colour, dry slightly tannic. Accompanies almost all first and second courses very well. Chianti area spans the majority of central and souther Tuscany and is divided into seven separate areas. The Chianti Classico area stretches down between Florence and Siena and producers often use a black cock as their symbol. Nobile di Montepulciano (red) Ruby red wine with a dry flavour but a slightly woody aftertaste. Very good accompanied with meat, game and cheese. Vernaccia di San Gimignano (white) Produced from the area’s Vernaccia vine. Straw yellow in colour with a dry taste. Lovely to drink on its own or with antipasti and fish dishes. Visiting Vineyards There are hundreds of Vineyards open to the public in Tuscany. Generally, tourist information office should be able to provide some details of these. When driving round, look out for signs reading Vendita Diretta (direct sales) or Cantine Aperte (open cellars). It is also a good idea to telephone in advance to check that vineyards are open. Most of them have English speaking staff. Below is just a small selection of wine producers found in the Tuscany region. In southern Tuscany we produce hundreds different wines that vary a lot in taste. To find the right one for your taste you may use the restaurants as “tasting windows” or, better the wine shops called ENOTECA where you can compare several tastes. Good Enoteca are present in all major wine production town such as Siena, Montalcino, Montepulciano, Gaiole, Greve in Chianti etc. List of Tuscan wines A Famous local event: the PALIO It is one of Italy’s most famous events, this bareback horse race takes place in Siena’s Piazza del Campo twice a year on 2nd July and 16th August. It is followed passionately by the local people who invest serious time and energy in creating the perfect jockey/horse combination that will bring their Contrada to glory. The week leading up to the event is always lively, the town buzzing with preparations. If you are fortunate enough to be on holiday during this time, the trial races can make a fun if somewhat chaotic day out. Siena is divided into Contrade (districts). Each child born in Siena is born into a Contrada to which they are affiliated for life. Often the Contrada is passed down the family line but more often than not, a child’s contrada depends on the hospital in which they were born. Wondering around the streets of Siena, you will notice flags and decorations which denote which Contrada you are in. Some of these have museums open to the public but many are by appointment only. The Contrade are: AQUILA EAGLE OCA GOOSE BRUCO HEDGEHOG ONDA WAVE DRAGO DRAGON PANTERA PANTHER ISTRICE PORCUPINE TARTUCA TORTOISE LEOCORNO UNICORN TORRE TOWER GIRAFFA GIRAFFE SELVA GAME BIRD LUPA WOLF CHIOCCIOLA SNAIL NICCHIO SHELL CIVETTA OWL VALIMONTONE RAM The build up to the race 3 days before: Horses are presented for selection at the Town Hall and allocated to the 10 contrade or districts which will participate in the race (only 10 out of the 17 contrade can compete). 19.15 hrs the first trial race takes place in the Piazza del Campo. 2 days before: Trial races at 09.00 and 19.15 hrs. Historical procession with flag bearing for all districts. This starts at around 17.00 in Piazza del Campo. 1 day before: Religious ceremony in the Duomo in honour of the Assumption of our Lady into Heaven, the Patron saint of Siena, in whose honour the Palio is run. At 09.00 the fourth trial race is run in the Piazza. At 19.15 the “Prova Generale” takes place. In the evening, each contrada holds a banquet attended by all of its members. The day of the Palio: The last trial takes place in the morning. In the early afternoon the blessing of the horse and jockey takes place in the church of each contrada. At 16.00 the track is cleared and at 16.45 a colourful procession takes place. At approximately 19.00 the race is run and bells ring throughout the town. The race only lasts for 90 seconds and the horses run three times around the Piazza. The Day after: The winning contrada parades through the town to great celebrations. If you decide to see the Palio, seats in the stand are very expensive and difficult to get hold of at short notice. The centre of the piazza becomes very crowded and hot and you need to arrive by about 15.00. The crowd is mainly made up of local supporters who become loud and enthusiastic as the race gets going. Should you decide to attend a race, we recommend that you do not take small children and that you take along plenty of water and a hat for the long wait in the piazza ( the event is not recommended for keen animal lovers)