Folleto "Au Coeur des Saveurs"

A Revelation
..............................
D I S C OV E R T H E G A S T RO N O M I C S E C R E T S
O F N E W T E X T U R E S A N D F L AVO U R S
I N D E S S E RT S , C A K E S A N D C H O C O L AT E S
B I L I N G UA L E D I T I O N
ENGLISH • FRENCH
......................................
I know nothing more reassuring than discovering a young man
who loves his profession. Such is the case of Frédéric Bau
who after a most enriching course of initiation, now enters
the court of the elders by writing his first book.
This unconventional pastry chef never ceases to amaze me; not
only has he actively contributed to the fame of Valrhona
chocolates over the past ten years, which in turn has enabled
him to discover the world, but has now, despite his youth,
produced this astonishing book to satisfy the curiosity of the
professionals.
The highly aesthetic text has the merit of leaving the welltrodden paths: the language is direct, full of helpful, often
valuable advice and backed up by numerous recipes which
make one’s mouth water just reading them. The book is
illustrated with highly original stylized photographs.
It comes at the right moment considering today’s prevailing
collective enthusiasm for chocolate. When people feel down,
they tend to indulge in sweets things, making unreserved use
of the magic balms of chocolate. What can be more
irresistible than the aroma of this noble product, with its
exquisite flavour full of fragrance?
It is a fact that chocolate harmonizes with almost everything
and can be used in a thousand ways, which is why Frédéric
Bau´s decision to offer his views on the subject is indeed
excellent.
Throughout the book, he shares his passion with us, and
unfolds the multiple facets of “chocolate” alchemy.
I have no training as a pastry chef, and consequently am no
expert on the subject, but I am extremely flattered to have been
consulted on this highly gifted young man´s work.
Once more, we have to acknowledge that “worthiness waits
not for age”.
I extend my best wishes to Frédéric, for a long and successful
career, “chocolate-paved”.
.........................................................................................................................................
P AU L B O C U S E
S AY S
Frédéric Bau
CRAFTSMAN
O F F L AVO U R S
............................................
A
Since 1988, Frédéric Bau, and his team, have embodied
Valrhona´s skills in the eyes of leading international experts.
Teaching at L’École du Grand Chocolat, gives him the
opportunity to pass on his knowledge and enthusiasm to
professionels keen to learn the art of pâtisserie. He is today
the ambassador throughout the world of a new type of
educational method, inspired from an artistic feeling and wish
for perfection which he enthusiastically imparts as he goes
from one country to another, multiplying encounters and
exchange of information.
In the course of his training in the city of Metz (in the east
of France), Frédéric Bau became acquainted with the
difficulties of the profession under the guidance of Pierre
Koenig. Later, with Claude Bourguignon, -a praiseworthy
perfectionist who taught him self-discipline- Frédéric Bau was
to discover the grandeur of the trade and the satisfaction that
can be derived from it. In 1983, he won the award for the best
apprentice in France.
He then came into contact with the world of catering, and
during an initial phase as head pastry chef, his wish to create
freely and to move away from conventionalism gained strength.
In 1986, Pierre Hermé took him on at Fauchon in París. It
was a revelation! Pierre Hermé’s talent and charisma sealed his
true passion for the profession. Over the next two years, he
discovered the meaning of creativity combined with efficiency
and productivity. It was then that he was invited to join
Valrhona.
Frédéric Bau likes to quote the saying of the French author
Jean-Jaurès, used by Claude Bourguignon: “One cannot teach
what one wishes to teach, but only what one is”.
A BOOK UNIQUE OF ITS KIND, A MUST IN THE LIBRARY OF ANY PROFESSIONAL
Photographs
specially conceived
to show the inside
structure of the cake
Name of the dessert
Carajillo
Cakes, Restaurant
desserts and high
quality Chocolates
41
40
Detailed explanation
of the recipe´s
preparation
COMPOSITION
COMPOSITION
PLAIN MADELEINE SPONGE CAKE
P Â T E À M A D E L E I N E N AT U R E
S I RO P À L ’ A N I S E T AU C A F É
A N I S E A N D C O F F E E S Y RU P
Text in English
COFFEE “MOUSSELINE”
M O U S S E L I N E AU C A F É
“ S W I S S ” C O F F E E M E R I N G U E F O R D E C O R AT I O N
M E R I N G U E “ S U I S S E ” D E D É C O R AU C A F É
CAPUCINE SPONGE CAKE WITH COCONUT
10 g dry egg whites
80 g caster sugar
180 g egg whites
80 g powdered almonds
80 g powdered toasted
coconut
30 g strong flour, type 45
125 g caster sugar
Detailed formulas,
describing ingredients
and amounts
BISCUIT CAPUCINE À LA NOIX DE COCO
Beat the egg whites with the 80 g sugar, previously combined with the dry egg whites.
Sift together the almond powder, the flour and the remaining 125 g sugar, then add the toasted
powdered coconut. Finally, sprinkle these powders over the beaten egg whites.
Pipe the preparation with a pastry bag, and bake at 170-180º C, with closed draught.
If you wish to obtain a crunchy surface, sprinkle with confectionrs´sugar before baking, in
this case, with open draught.
PA S S I O N F RU I T C R E A M
400 g passion fruit
pulp
120 g egg yolks
150 g eggs
120 g sugar
150 g butter
500 g white couverture
70 g grape seed oil
100 g toasted coconut
Combine all the ingredients, except the butter. Bring to a quick boil, stirring carefully with a
spatula.
Once the mixture has cooled, to approximately 35-40º C, add the butter in pieces, and place
in the mixer to emulsify (make sure not to incorporate air, as the mixture should be creamy
and shiny like a mayonnaise). Keep in the refrigerator in clean covered containers, or pour
immediately into rings and freeze.
Use the microwave oven to reheat the cream.
Step-by-step
photographs to
illustrate the process
of elaboration
400 g de pulpe de fruits
de la passion
120 g de jaunes d’oeufs
150 g d’oeufs
120 g de sucre
150 g de beurre
Mélangez tous les ingrédients, sauf le beurre. Tout en remuant parfaitement, vous donnez un
léger bouillon.
Le mélange refroidi, à environ 35-40° C, incorporez le beurre en dés, et émulsionnez au
mixer ou robot (attention à l’incorporation d’air, vous devez obtenir une texture brillante et
élastique rassemblante à une mayonnaise). Conservez au réfrigérateur, en bacs propres et fermes ou coulez ou cerclez immédiatement et congelez.
Pour réchauffer, le four à micro-ondes est conseillé.
500 g de couverture blanche
70 g d’huile de pépins
de raisins
100 g de noix de coco grillée
Fondez la couverture avec l’huile, à 45-50° C, et mettez au point. Le tempérage terminé, vous
étalez finement sur feuille de papier ou plastique et saupoudrez de noix de coco grillée.
Découpez ensuite des disques, d’une taille en rapport avec celle du montage.
N E C TA R D E N O I X D E C O C O
10 g gelatine in leaves
Melt the gelatine once soaked and drained, in the lukewarm coconut pulp. Sieve over the
350 g frozen coconut pulp
coconut paste. When the mixture reaches 30-35º C, add the freshly prepared Italian meringue,
sweetened at 10%
and finally, the cream, whipped fluffy. Use at once.
150 g coconut paste
100 g Italian meringue
less sweetened (page 312)
300 g cream 35% butterfat
1
Sequence of the
assembly of the cake
Text in French
Vous montez les blancs avec les 80 g de sucre semoule, préalablement mélangé aux blancs
secs.
Tamisez ensemble la poudre d’amandes, la farine et les 125 g de sucre semoule, puis vous y
ajoutez la poudre de coco grillée. Enfin, versez ces poudres, en pluie, sur les blancs montés.
Dressez la préparation à la poche, et cuisez à 170-180° C, clé fermée. Si vous souhaitez obtenir une surface croustillante, saupoudrez de sucre glace avant la cuisson et, dans ce cas, clé
ouverte.
F E U I L L E S D E C H O C O L AT B L A N C
Melt the couverture with the oil, to 45-50º C, and temper. Then spread a thin layer on a
plastic or paper sheet, and sprinkle with toasted coconut. Cut at once the disks needed for
setting.
C O C O N U T N E C TA R
54
10 g de blancs secs
80 g de sucre semoule
180 g de blancs d’oeufs
80 g de poudre d’amandes
80 g de poudre de noix
de coco grillée
30 g de farine forte, type 45
125 g de sucre semoule
C R È M E A U X F RU I T S D E L A PA S S I O N
W H I T E C H O C O L AT E S H E E T S
Reference to a recipe
to be located
in the Basic formulas
section, at the end
of the book
Short description
of the various
components
SETTING
D E C O R AT I O N
This cake is usually prepared in 4,5 cm
high rings, and in this case, it is egg
shaped.
T he s e t t i n g re q u i re s t wo l aye r s o f
coconut cake, with a layer of coconut
nectar in between. Make a base with
white couverture. With a tip for “Saint
Honoré”, pipe “tears” of passion fruit
cream over the sheets of white chocolate
with coconut (picture 1), and freeze.
Place a chocolate sheet, also piped with
“tears” of passion fruit cream, on the
second layer of coconut nectar (picture
2). Fill up with the coconut nectar and
smooth. Smooth again before unmolding.
Cover with plastic sheet.
The cake is masked as needed with cream
for decoration (page 302) and topped
with passion fruit cream, piped with a
nº 8 tip. Pipe the cream rolls tightly
parallel (pictures 3 and 4).
U s e yo u r i n s p i r a t i o n t o fi n i s h t h e
decoration.
HINTS
For unknown reasons, the technique of
masking with cream has fallen into
disuse, although it is true that compared
to others, this type of decoration is
more delicate to handle, because of
surrounding smells and preservation.
For this reason, and in order to maintain
10 g de gélatine en feuilles
350 g de pulpe de noix de coco
surgelée, sucrée à 10%
150 g de pâte de noix de coco
100 g de meringue italienne
moins sucrée (page 313)
300 g de crème fleurette
à 35% M G
Une fois la pulpe de noix de coco tiédie, fondre dedans la gélatine, préalablement trempée et
essorée, puis passez au chinois sur la pâte de noix de coco. Dès que le mélange atteint 3035° C, vous ajoutez la meringue italienne, fraîchement élaborée, et enfin la crème fleurette,
montée mousseuse. Utilisez avant la prise.
55
2
the appearance and above all the taste, I
recommend to mask the cakes as needed,
previously frozen without the cream,
and protected with plastic film.
If you wish to increase the coconut taste,
the surface of the cake can be sprayed
with coconut spirit.
T his desser t is ser ved rather cold,
together with fresh fruit juice, for example banana and pineapple, or else with a
slightly fizzy water.
3
M O N TA G E
Cet entremets est réalisé en cercles de
4,5 cm de hauteur, et dans le cas présent, en forme d’oeuf.
Le montage comporte deux couches de
biscuit coco. La couche inférieure est
chablonnée à la couverture blanche. À
l’aide d’une douille pour Saint Honoré,
vous dressez sur les feuilles de chocolat
blanc à la noix de coco, des “larmes” de
crème aux fruits de la passion (photo
1), et congelez.
Vous intégrez une feuille de chocolat
avec également des “larmes” de crème
aux fruits de la passion, à la deuxième
couche de nectar de noix de coco (photo 2), terminez de garnir et vous lissez
à nouveau l’entremets avant de décercler et de filmer.
DÉCOR
L’entremets est masqué quotidiennement, à l’aide de crème fleurette de
décor (page 303), et ter miné par le
dressage de la crème à l’aide d’une
douille n° 8. Prenez soin de “serrer” les
rouleaux de crème (photos 3 et 4).
Vous terminez le décor selon votre inspiration.
CONSEILS
Le masquage à la crème fait partie des
choses oubliées, pour des raisons que
j’ignore. Il est vrai que ce genre de
4
décor est plus fragile que d’autres, en
ce qui concerne les odeurs et le vieillissement.
C’est pourquoi, afin de préserver l’aspect et, surtout le goût, je vous conseille un masquage journalier des entremets, qui auront été surgelés sans crème, et filmés.
Si vous le souhaitez, accentuez la “note
coco”, en pulvérisant légèrement la surface du biscuit avec de l’alcool de noix
de coco.
Servez très frais. Ce dessert peut être
accompagné d’un jus de fr uits frais,
banane et ananas par exemple, ou d’une
eau légèrement gazeuse.
Frédéric Bau´s
suggestions for
tasting and sale
promotion.
Recommendations
of the author
to the professionals
Finishing steps
and decoration
Name of the recipe
G R A N D C RU P U R C A R A Ï B E G A N A C H E
Name
of the chocolate
Basic formulas: a
book within a book.
G A N A C H E AU G R A N D C RU P U R C A R A Ï B E
385 g cream 35% butterfat
465 g Pur Caraïbe couverture
65% cocoa
75 g invert sugar
75 g pasteurized “dry”butter
for puff pastry
385 g de crème fleurette à 35% M G
465 g de couverture Pur Caraïbe
à 65% de cacao
75 g de sucre inverti
75 g de beurre pasteurisé
de détourage, dit “sec”
The 100 formulas
used in the
elaborations offered
in the book
Palet d’or Pur Caraïbe
Detailed description
of the recipes´s
preparation. Finishing
and decorative
suggestions
232
Photographs of the
process showing
technical details
of maximum interest
H O W T O O B TA I N
A S UCCESSFUL G ANACHE
Technical processes
for the elaboration
of pastry
preparations
Frédéric Bau’s
professional
experience, pleasantly
commented
for the obtention
of maximum results
COMMENT OBTENIR
U N E G A NAC H E R É U S S I E
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. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
We´ll now consider the preparation of ganaches. A correct
understanding of the behaviour of the ingredients simplifies
the work. For this reason, we have looked for answers to the
questions that come to our mind in the course of our work.
Let us study the behaviour of chocolate, the “pilot” product
of the ganache. Each manufacturer has his own method for
transforming a cocoa bean into chocolate. I can pass on the
knowledge I acquired in Valrhona , whose products are
familiar to me. As far as other suppliers, some of whom
may be yours, I recommend you consult them in
order to obtain further information about their products.
There are two types of manufactured chocolate, the couvertures or dipping chocolate, and the chocolate used in the
workroom, erroneously called “chocolate for ganache”,
because it is also used in the preparation of mousses, icecreams, crèmes, etc.
Let us study the existing differences between them: when
you buy a couver ture, you probably inquire about its
technical applications, such as its use for manual or
mechanical coating, molding, etc. On the other hand, for
the “work-room” chocolate, your aim is only to work with
it, and transform it into mousses, ganaches, ice-creams or
other preparations.
Its fluidity, the limit of the overflow (to avoid “beaks” on
the chocolates), do not concern us in this case, while the
characteristics of a chocolate couverture, such as fluidity,
viscosity, crunchiness and finish, must necessarily be taken
into account.
For this reason, it is technically essential to integrate a
certain amount of cocoa butter to the chocolate couverture,
so as to be able to work it correctly.
The composition of one kilo of chocolate couverture is
shown in the sketch below.
Let’s take a product with 70% cocoa content ( Valrhona
Abordons à présent la réalisation des ganaches. Avec une
bonne compréhension du fonctionnement des ingrédients,
le travail est simplifié.
Pour cette raison, nous avons cherché les réponses aux questions que nous nous posons toujours dans notre métier.
Étudions le comportement du produit “pilote” de la ganache, le chocolat.
Chaque fabricant de chocolat a sa propre méthode de transformation de la fève de cacao en chocolat, et je suis en
mesure de vous transmettre les connaissances acquises chez
Valrhona , dont les produits me sont familiers.
En ce qui concerne les autres fournisseurs, qui peuvent être
les vôtres, je vous conseille de les consulter afin d’obtenir
de plus amples informations sur leurs produits.
Il existe deux types de fabrication de chocolat, les couvertures et les chocolats de laboratoire, appelés également et à
tord “chocolats ganache”, car ils peuvent aussi permettre la
réalisation de mousses, glaces, crèmes, etc.
Étudions leurs différences: pour l’achat d’une couverture,
vous avez des exigences légitimes comme, par exemple, la
connaissance des applications techniques: enrobage manuel
ou mécanique, moulage, etc. Par contre, pour le chocolat de
laboratoire, votre but est seulement de le travailler, le transformer et de l’intégrer à des mousses, ganaches, glaces et
autres.
Sa fluidité, sa limite d’écoulement (qui évite les “pieds” aux
bonbons), sont des critères qui ne nous préoccupent pas, à
l’inverse de la couverture au chocolat, dont les impératifs exigés sont nombreux: fluidité, viscosité, craquant, brillant, etc.
Pour toutes ces raisons, il est donc techniquement indispensable d’intégrer une certaine quantité de beurre de cacao
1
2
630 g cocoa beans
(700 g -70 g cocoa butter)
298 g sugar
± 1 g natural vanilla
± 1 g soya lecithin,
with a total of 300 g,
considering 30% sugar
345 g cocoa butter
from the beans,
that is 56% of 630 g
285 g
43% dry extract of cocoa
beans
70% cocoa
or 700 g cocoa product
218
A fundamental
working instrument,
which allows
the professional
to consult on points
of interest,
so as to up-date
and widen his range
of specialities
L’enrobage
Les palets de ganache sont
enrobés de couverture tempérée. Avant la prise, vous
Coating
The ganache palets are coated
Special section
dedicated
to the behaviour
of ingredients
A summary of the
best formulas of the
currently notorious
author of pastry
creations
70 g
7% of added pure cocoa butter
Process of elaboration of a ganache: 1) Once boiled with the invert sugar, pour the cream over the ground dark couverture. 2)
Allow to rest for a few moments before starting the emulsion. 3) “Rubbing” with the spatula, an elastic core is formed in the
centre of the mixture. This is the sign of a successful emulsion which must be maintained. The liquid is completely absorbed
and the finished emulsion is smooth, shiny and elastic. 4) The temperature must always be higner than the point of fusion of
the cocoa butter, at 35º C. For the mixture, I recommend a temperature between 35-40º C. The butter is then added, if the
recipe calls for it.
3
dans une couverture au chocolat, pour qu’elle puisse être
travaillée.
Nous pouvons analyser la composition d’un kilo de couverture de chocolat à travers le croquis ci-dessous. Nous
parlons ici d’un produit à 70% de cacao (du type Guanaja
de Valrhona ).
298 g de sucre
± 1 g de vanille naturelle
± 1 g de lécithine de soja
au total 300 g,
considerons le 30% de sucre
345 g de beurre de cacao
des fèves,
soit le 55% de 630 g
285 g
43% d’extraits
secs de fèves
70% de cacao
soit 700 g de produit de cacao
Text in French
Faites bouillir la crème fleurette avec le sucre inverti. Versez
lentement ce mélange bouillant sur le chocolat haché.
Mélangez au centre, en tournant d’un mouvement circulaire
à l’aide d’une spatule. Vous devez créer un “noyau”élastique
et brillant. Conservez cette texture jusqu’à la fin du mélange. Lorsque la ganache est à 35-40° C environ, incorporez-y
le beurre en dés. La ganache réalisée, laissez cristalliser légèrement sur plaque, avant de travailler à la poche.
Pour obtenir les palets d’or, trois solutions sont possibles:
1.- La ganache réalisée et en phase de cristallisation à 29-30º C,
sera pochée à l’aide d’un pochoir spécial (voir photo).
Maintenue chaude à 35-40º C, la plaque perforée, permet
d’esquisser la forme cylindrique du bonbon. Le retrait de la
plaque chaude au moment de la cristallisation imminente de
la ganache permet de conserver des bonbons à la forme parfaite (voir photo).
Cristallisez ensuite comme il se doit (48 heures environ),
chablonnez à l’aide d’un pistolet et de couverture tempérée.
2.- La ganache réalisée, et en phase de cristallisation à 2930º C, sera dressée à la poche, munie d’une douille du 1012, sur feuille plastique.
Dressées régulièrement, les
boules seront recouver tes
d’une seconde feuille plastique. Pensez à mettre en place 4 “plots” ou 2 règles, qui
rendront l’aplatissement
plus précis. Effectuez cet
aplatissement à l’aide d’une
plaque.
Laissez ensuite cristalliser
comme il se doit (48 heures
environ), chablonnez à l’aide
d’un pistolet et de couverture tempérée.
3.- La ganache realisée et cadrée normalement. Après la
cristallisation, détaillez à
l’aide d’un emporte-pièce
chauffé.
Ne commettez pas l’erreur,
pour plus de facilité, de
tremper l’empor te-pièce
dans du cacao en poudre.
sucre glace ou eau chaude...,
vous rencontrerie z des
problèmes de conservation.
630 g de fèves de cacao
(700 g -70 g de beurre de cacao)
Text in English
Boil the cream with the inver t sugar. Slowly pour the
boiling mixture over the ground chocolate.
Stir with the spatula, from the centre out. A shiny and
elastic “core” is then formed. Keep on adding the liquid,
maintaining the texture, until completing the mixing.
When the temperature of the ganache is approximately 3540º C, add the diced butter. Once the ganache is made,
allow to crystallize slightly on the tray before piping with a
pastry bag.
There are three possible ways to make “Palets d’or”:
1.-When the ganache is ready, and still in phase of crystallization, at 29-30º C, it will be molded with the help of a
perforated tray (see picture).
If maintained war m, at 35-40º C, this perforated tray
permits to give a cylindric shape to the candy. When the
ganache is about to cr ystallize, remove the war m tray,
leaving the chocolate candies with a perfect shape (see
picture). Complete crystallization for approximately 48
hours and give a base with tempered couverture, applied
with an air pistol.
2.- When the ganache is ready
and in phase of crystallization, at 29-30º C, pipe it
over a plastic sheet, with a
pastry bag fitted with a nº
10-12 tip.
Once piped evenly, the
ganache balls will be covered with a second plastic
sheet. Place 4 small “plots”
or rulers and flatten gently
applying regular pressure
with a tray. Allow to crystallize approximately 48
hours, then give a base with
tempered couver ture, applied with an air pistol.
3.- Prepare the ganache and
spread it as usual into a
frame. Once crystallized,
cut it with a heated pastry
cutter.
In order to save time, do not
make the mistake to dip the
pastr y cutter into cocoa
powder, confectioners’ sugar
or hot water..., this would
cause preser vation problems.
70 g
7% de beurre
de cacao pur ajoutée
4
Processus d’élaboration d’une ganache: 1) Versez la crème bouillie, avec le sucre inverti, sur la couverture noire hachée.
2) Laissez reposer quelques instants avant de démarrer l’emulsión. 3) En “frictionnant” à la spatule, un noyau élastique se forme au centre du mélange: c’est le signe d’une émulsion réussie, que l’on doit préserver. Le liquide est entièrement incorporé, l’émulsion terminée est bien lisse, brillante et élastique. 4) La temperáture doit toujours être supérieure au point de fusion du beurre de cacao, soit 35º C. Je conseille un mélange situé entre 35º et 40º C; c’est le moment
d’ajouter le beurre, si la recette en contient.
Sketch showing
the composition
of recipes
219
S U M M A RY O F E L A B O R AT I O N S
AND BASIC FORMULAS
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cakes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
The inner architecture of a cake • Carajillo • One.Two.Tea • Charlotte aux
fruits rouges • Macaho • Jupiter • Tarte aux framboises, à ma façon • Fraîcheur
• Carrés feuilletés aux agrumes et au miel • Cannelés au chocolat et au vieux
rhum • Baïlana • Aurore • Tarte aux pommes, autrement... • Millefeuille
Manjari-lavande • Carré 1502 • Osmose • Épicea • Tarte Camélia • Gâteau
“Sakura” • Flore • Tartelette de la Mancha • Maria-Louisa • Le lingot “Alpes”
. . . . . . . . . . Restaurant Desserts . . . . . . . . .
Plated Desserts • Baked white peach, with thyme flavoured cream, rich shortcrust “breton” and white peach sorbet • Pear and milk chocolate cream “douillons”, cottage cheese sorbet flavoured with szechwan pepper • Black fig “carpaccio”, balsamic nectar and currant rectangles • Almond mellowness with
wild and mara des bois strawberries in their own juice • Spicy caramel parfait,
granny smith apple tangles and lasagne with cider amber • Manjari chocolate
sorbet “palet”, caramel and ginger crunch, earl grey fleurs bleues bergamot tea
jelly • Almond duo and red pepper “sail” • Sautéed “griottes”cherries in
meringue nest, crunchy “rubis” with cottage cheese mousse mixture • Pur
Caraïbe chocolate cone, passion fruit cream and crunchy sesame “tuile” •
Citrus and lemon-balm consommé, praliné filled ravioli • Praliné and lemon
crunch • Ivory tower, rhubarb wafer and compote • Small soft chocolate savarin with autumn aromas • Venise snow and fresh fruit marinated with acacia
honey • Guanaja chocolate soup, pineapplemarinated with star anise, almondcroûtons and pineapple crunch • Contrast of milk chocolate and tartar pear
with hydromel • Crunchy lace “tuiles” • Small apricot “Clafoutis” with
almond ice-cream
. . . . . . . . . . . Chocolate Candies . . . . . . . . . . .
Filled chocolate Candies • Correct tempering of the couverture • How to
obtain a successful ganache • Coating of chocolate candies • Fleurs Bleues •
Frambola Café-Café • Coconut • Palet d’or Pur Caraïbe • Amer Guanaja •
Palet F.B. Lait-Café • Palet F.B. Ivoire-Chicorée • Yabon • Nougat de
Montélimar • Nougat aux pignons “La Coca” • Sicilia • Fleur de Bière • Irish
Coffee • Nikaïa • Sevilla • Praliné aux épices • “Houlles, dans le nord” •
Maeva • Grenoble • Castaña • Lavandou • Maya • Louisa • Truffes fraîches à
l’arma-gnac • Vanuatou
. . . . . . . . . . . . Basic Formulas . . . . . . . . . . . .
DOUGHS: Gingerbread • Plain cigarette paste • Verbena cigarette paste •
Coffee cigarette paste • Chocolate cigarette paste • Buckwheat cigarette paste
• Puff pastry • Puff pastry caramelized with lavender sugar • Rich shortcrust
• Plain rich shortcrust “breton” • Rich shortcrust “breton” with lemon • Rich
sweetened shortcrus • SPONGE CAKE DOUGH: Plain capucine sponge
cake • Capucine sponge cake with coconut • Capucine sponge cake with lemon
classic almond sponge cake • “Special” ladyfinger sponge cake plain and chocolate • “Financier” light chocolate sponge cake • “Financier” light sponge
cake with chocolate and currants • Soft almonds sponge cake • Soft sponge
cake with almond and ginger • Sacher sponge cake • Sacher spicy sponge cake
• Sponge cake succès with lemon • Almond “fragilité” base • Genoese sponge
cake with toasted almonds or hazelnuts • Plain madeleine sponge cake for
lining • “Pain de Gênes” with almond paste • CREAMY MIXTURES: Rich
Crème anglaise for “quick-cooled” • Crème brûlée • Lemon or citrus fruit
cream • Passion fruit cream • Almond cream for cooking • Creamy pistachio
mixture • Ceamy raspberry pulp mixture • Creamy caramel and ginger mixture • Manjari chocolate creamy mixture with cinnamon • Creamy mixture with
saffron from La Mancha • Creamy pure praliné mixture • MOUSSE
MIXTURES: Basic bavarois • Flavoured bavarois • Bavarois with ceylon cinnamon • Bavarois with tahiti vanilla • bavarois flavoured with brandy • Praliné
bavarois • Bavarois with hazelnut and almond praliné • Bavarois with dried
fruit paste • Chiboust creamwith orange • Gingerbread mousse • Apricot
mousse • Red fruit mousse • Coffee “mousseline” • Mousse mixture with fragrant verbena or “citronelle” infusion • Mousse mixture with Earl Grey Fleurs
bleues bergamot tea • Mousse mixture with cottage cheese • Mousse mixture
with very mature rum • CHOCOLATE MIXTURES: Chocolate bavarois •
Chiboust cream with gran cru guanaja chocolate • Creamy chocolate mixtures
• Creamy mixture with milk chocolate and pears • Grand Cru Guanaja light
ganache • Pur Caraïbe chocolate mousse with caramel • Chocolate mousses
with crème anglaise base • Chocolate mousses with “bombe” mixture base •
Jivara Lactée chocolate mousse mixture • PREPARED FRUIT: Baked apricots
• Caramelized almonds • Pineapple crunch • Pineapple marinated with star
anise • Black fig “Carpaccio” • Apricot and prune compote with maury Mas
Amiel wine • “Semi-candied” orange compote • Banana and nutmeg compote • “Griotte” cherry compote with mature alsatian kirsch • Rhubarb compote • Citrus and lemon-balm consommé • Apricot coulis • Gelled apricot coulis • Strawberry coulis • Granny Smith apple lasagne with caramel and cinnamon • Caramelized mangos • Coconut nectar • Granny Smith apple tangle •
White peaches poached and baked with lemon thyme • Sautéed “griottes”
with mature alsatian kirsch • Poached pears • Poached pears in light vanilla
syrup • Apples “parisiennes” sautéed with honey • Reinete apples baked with
butter and vanilla • Fresh fruit salad with acacia honey • ICE
CREAMS:Almond ice-cream • Spicy cinnamon and caramel parfait • Cottage
cheese sorbet with szechwan pepper • White peach “minute” sorbet • Manjari
chocolate sorbet • DECORATIONS: Amber cider • Cream for decoration •
Almond croûtons • Caramel lace with dried fruit • Ganache for masking and
decoration • Rhubarb wafers • Hydromel jelly • Maury Mas Amiel wine jelly
• Praliné glaze • White chocolate mixture for spraying • Milk chocolate mixture for spraying • Dark chocolate mixture for spraying • Lemon meringue for
masking • “Swiss” coffee meringue for decoration • Neutral glaze • Neutral
glaze for cold topping • Verbena glaze • Milk chocolate and praliné glaze •
Dark chocolate glaze • Honey and lemon glaze • Very mature rum and passion fruit jelly • Earl grey fleurs bleues • Bergamot tea jelly • MISCELLANEOUS PREPARATIONS: “Clafoutis” mixture with toasted hazelnuts •
Gran Cru Manjari chocolate mixture for savarin • Citrus butter • Powdered
plain caramel • Powdered spicy caramel • Red pepper compote • Caramel and
ginger crunch • Basic crème anglaise for mousses or bavarois • Cream with
honey • Crème pâtissière • Crunchy puffed wheat • Frothy cream, thyme flavoured • White chocolate sheets • Orange-flower flan • Italian meringue less
sweetened • “Swiss” meringue • “Swiss” meringue with mature alsatian kirsch
• Nectar with balsamic vinegar from modena • Snow of muscatel from
Beaumes de Venise • Dried fruit nougatine • Crunchy mixture for the “rubís”
• Currant rectangles • Chocolate sauce • Orange salt • Anise and coffee syrup
• Star anise syrup • Mint syrup • Fragrant verbena syrup • Coffee syrup •
Almond paste soufflé • Chocolate soup • Plain lace “tuiles” • Chocolate lace
“tuiles” • Crunchy sesame “tuiles”
&
S PANISH
AND J APANESE
VERSIONS AVAILABLE
M O N TA G U D E D I T O R E S
Since 1906
Ausiàs March, 25 - Tel.: (+34) 93 318 20 82
Fax: (+34) 93 302 50 83 - 08010 Barcelona - Spain
Content
....................................
P AU L B O C U S E S AY S
•
F R É D É R I C B AU. A C R A F T S M A N O F F L AVO U R S
•
MY VIEW OF PÂTISSERIE
•
B E H I N D T H E S C E N E S O F P A S T RY C O O K I N G
ABOUT THE INGREDIENTS
WHAT IS A CHOCOLATE MOUSSE ?
THE OTHER SIDE OF THE PICTURE
•
CAKES
THE INNER ARCHITECTURE OF A CAKE
•
R E S TAU R A N T D E S S E RT S
PLATED DESSERTS
•
C H O C O L AT E C A N D I E S
FILLED CHOCOLATE CANDIES
CORRECT TEMPERING OF THE COUVERTURE
HOW TO OBTAIN A SUCCESSFUL GANACHE
COATING OF CHOCOLATE CANDIES
•
S U M M A RY O F E L A B O R AT I O N S
•
ALPHABETICAL INDEX
•
BASIC FORMULAS
Creative Team
....................................
Photog raphs
JEAN BERNARD LASSARA
Managing Editor
MARIÁN ANGUITA
Director of “La Confitería Española”
Ar t Director
XAVIER CORRETJÉ
President of ADG-FAD, “Art Directors Club”
Translation and Adaptation
GINETTE SHAMA
Editing
LUIS MIGUEL CALVO - RENÉ PALOMO
Production Director
LLUÍS ISERN
Technical Data
....................................
200 photographs full colour. 24 x 32 cm.
320 pages. Printed in 5 colour and varnished.
Paper specially made for this book.
Hard cover in color stamped in silver and plastified.
High quality binding.