Magazine Layout

A
T U F T S
C O M M U N I C A T I O N S
P U B L I C A T I O N
m a g a z i n e
Alber to • Bent ley Brooklands
M o d e r n M e n s w e a r • T h e S o f t To u c h • Tw e e d
Agave Spirits • Pract ical Panache
AUTUMN 08 / WINTER 09 • ISSUE 5
PM41333515
BOSS Black
HUGO BOSS FASHIONS INC. Phone +1 212 940 0600 www.hugoboss.com
fashion
W
Welcome to the Fall 2008 edition of British Importers Magazine.
Throughout the now three year old move to our Yates Street location, B.I. has been fortunate enough to enjoy the patronage
of you , our customer. This patronage has allowed us to continue to grow within our space and this assists us in our endeavour to serve you better. Thank you very much for your continued support. To a person, the staff at B.I. are grateful.
For fall 2008, B.I. pushes forward and grows its selection of womenswear products and labels. We are delighted with our new
fall collections from Hugo Boss Woman, Nanette Lapore, Pink Tartan, White & Warren, Robert Rodriguez, Juicy Couture,
Fabrizio Gianni, 7 For All Mankind, and Malene Birger, among others. Whether you’re uptown, downtown, or out of town,
B.I.’s keen, knowledgable staff will have you covered in style.
For the B.I. man, modern clothes, both business and casual, remain a hallmark of the store. Our Autumn collections exude
luxury and refinement. Cashmere touches can be found in dressy suits, sport jackets, and sensual sweaters. Soft and supple leather jackets from Andrew Marc New York are available for both men and women. The men’s shoe department features
only the finest brands such as Cole Haan of Yarmouth Maine, Geox of Italy, Mezlan of Spain, Donald J. Pliner, and more.
Please check out page 4 for a listing of B.I. fall events and special items for men and women. As always, we extend an open
invitation to you to stop by and be part of the excitement, as new goods arrive daily.
Best wishes,
All of us at British Importers
9 6 0 YAT E S S T R E E T • V I C T O R I A , B R I T I S H C O L U M B I A V 8 V 3 M 3 • T E L : 2 5 0 3 8 6 1 4 9 6
contents
S P R I N G / S U M M E R
Welcome
0 8
•
VO L
4
•
B R IT I S H
I M P O RT E R S
M AG A Z I N E
1
Letter from our staff
9 6 0 YAT E S S T R E E T
VICTORIA, BRITISH COLUMBIA
British Importers
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4
V8V 3M3
TEL: 250 386 1496
Spring store happenings & events
W W W. B R I T I S H I M P O R T E R S . C O M
Bentley Brooklands
6
b.i. staff profile
Grace, space, and oh-my-gosh pace
12
Cathline James
Global Trek
12
Culture travel brings friends together
Arthur Naubert
16
Thirty-five years of style
20
Alberto
18
Modern, innovative, and classic
The Soft Touch
20
Fall clothing designed to feel comfortable
Modern Menswear
26
An Exclusive interview with Hywel Davies
32
Practical Panache
32
With a touch of old-fashioned eroticism
Tweed
Cathline
James,
womenswear manager
at B. I. Women, has
always been a go-getter. From an early age,
Cathline has owned
real estate investments,
traded commodities,
and developed business strategies for the
UN , among others.
More
recently,
Cathline owned and
operated her own womenswear store, Fashion
8, for a decade on Government Street prior to
moving to Europe for 5 years.
Upon her return to the Island in 2006 ,
Cathline has been applying her considerable
talents to develop womenswear at B.I. Cathline’s
keen understanding of customer service , her
ability to train a great team, and her eye for
buying has been a boon for Victoria’s womenwear market.
Cathline and her team are ready , willing and able to assist in all facets of womenswear, from wardrobe consultations to fashion makeovers. Call Cathline or one the team at
250.386.1496 or email her at [email protected].
38
The perfect fabric for kings of commerce
Richard Roblin
44
British Importers Magazine is published by
Tufts Communications. © 2008,
Tufts Communications. All rights reserved.
Printed in the USA.
The nature of inspiration
Agave Spirits
The untapped Mexican elixir
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british importers magazine
42
Todd Tufts, Editor in Chief, Publisher
Gary Wollenhaupt, Editorial Director
Vence Vida, Art Director
Stephen R. Lewis, Copy Editor
44
For information on local advertising and
available editorial profiling for local businesses
please contact Todd Tufts:
Tufts Communications • 1201 E. 5th Street
Suite 1009 • Anderson, IN 46012
Tel: 765-608-3081
Email: [email protected]
events
British Importers Events
This season’s most exciting events and promotions
Menswear Classic Items and Events:
September 13th start – the Classic Merino Mock Neck Knit
This is a return of one of B.I.’s most popular items. Made of 100%
Merino wool, one of the finest gauge woolens in the world, this flat knit
is to be worn at work under a suit or jacket in place of a shirt and tie, or
is equally comfortable with a pair of dress slacks and leather jacket on
the way out to dinner.
Made in Italy. Available in black, black currant, navy, sand, Oxford
gray, caramel and coffee.
Be aware, this classic item will sell out quickly.
MSRP $148 B.I. priced at $110 each or 2 for $198.
September 27 – one day only - Meet Your Maker Trunk Show
For menswear , B.I. presents Bob Cameron and Adam Bradley,
respectively representing Coppley Apparel, Canada’s premier maker of
suits, dress shirts and ties, and famed shoe maker Cole Haan Footwear
of Yarmouth , Maine. Both Bob and Adam will have lots of extra stock on
hand to flesh out B.I.’s own considerable selection.
Enter to win a suit, shirt and tie combination from Coppley .
Enter to win a pair of men’s Cole Haan shoes too !
For womenswear, L.A. based designer of the year Robert Rodrigeuz,
who honed his craft at Christian Dior, sends the Canadian head of sales
to show off sophisticated, sexy, contemporary clothing for the west
coast woman. Bring a friend and try on Fall 2008!
Enter to win a $100 gift certificate towards your next purchase!
October 11th start – the Classic Cashmere Blazer
From Rada of Italy, our 100% pure cashmere blazer is impeccably
made right here in Canada. Made expressly for British Importers in a
single breasted, two button style with side vents, this blazer is perfect
for office wear or with jeans and a sport shirt. Available in black,chocolate, navy, charcoal and mid-blue.
Limited quantities only.
MSRP $798 B.I. priced at $499 each.
November 8th start – the Classic Stretch Corduroy Pant
Made primarily of cotton, with a 2% lycra component for stretchiness,
this autumn favourite is always on the list for Christmas. Flat front and
lower rise give a modern fit designed with comfort in mind.
Washable. Stretch waistband.
Available in black, navy, chocolate brown, olive green, mid-gray and
British tan.
MSRP $168 B.I. priced at $120 or 2 for $199.
November 27th one day only – Couples Christmas Gift Day (open
until 7:30 pm this day only )
Menswear and Womenswear are proud to host the 2nd annual
Couples Christmas Gift Day at B.I. Celebrate Gift Day with us and
receive a 20% discount on all purchases in-store, all day November
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british importers magazine
27th. Bring your significant other or a friend or both, and enjoy chocolates, appetizers from Feys & Hobbs, and a glass of wine or Stella Artois
until 7:30 p.m.
Gift wrapping is available with a minimum $5 donation to Victoria
Hospice, a need keenly felt at this festive time of year.
Enter to win one of two British Importers gift certificates of
$100 valid for your next purchase(s).
And remember, there’s plenty of free parking at B.I.!
December 26th
Closed on Boxing Day for pre-sale set-up.
December 27th- 31st - Boxing Week Unadvertised Sale
Starting at 9:30 a.m. on Saturday, December 27th,our semi-annual
storewide clearance is made available to you prior to advertising to the
general public. All in-stock items in both menswear and womenswear
are on sale with savings of up to 70% off the regular price. The sale will
be advertised for Friday, January 2nd .
Shop early for best selection of styles, sizes, fits and colours.
January 1, 2009 – New Year’s Day
Closed on New Year’s Day .
Womenswear Trunk Show & Events :
Saturday, August 23rd- Pink Tartan Trunk Show
Womenswear presents Pink Tartan representative Pam Cook, who
will be present at B.I. on Saturday, August 23rd with a selection of must
haves for Fall / Winter 2008. Pam will demonstrate why Pink Tartan is
beloved in the fashion world and why it’s worn by today’s hottest stars
like Nelly Furtado, Kim Catrall and Kate Hudson.
Bring in a friend and try on the freshest styles anywhere!
Enter to win a $100 gift certificate from B.I.
Please RSVP your attendance to [email protected].
September 27 – one day only - Meet Your Maker Trunk Show
For womenswear, L.A. based designer of the year Robert Rodrigeuz,
who honed his craft at Christian Dior, sends the Canadian head of sales
to show off sophisticated, sexy, contemporary clothing for the west
coast woman. Bring a friend and try on Fall 2008!
RSVP to [email protected] or call 250.386.1496
Enter to win a $100 gift certificate towards your next purchase!
For menswear , B.I. presents Bob Cameron and Adam Bradley,
respectively representing Coppley Apparel, Canada’s premier maker of
suits, dress shirts and ties, and famed shoe maker Cole Haan Footwear
of Yarmouth, Maine. Both Bob and Adam will have lots of extra stock on
hand to flesh out B.I.’s own considerable selection.
Enter to win a suit, shirt and tie combination from Coppley .
Enter to win a pair of men’s Cole Haan shoes too!
British Importers Events
This season’s most exciting events and promotions
October 4th – 11th - Third Annual Womens Denim Week
For the third autumn in a row, B.I. Women celebrates denim. An
important west coast look, for both casual or something more dressy,
denim can strike the perfect note. Come into the store this week and try
on the hottest fits and washes from makers Seven For All Mankind, True
Religion, Paige Premium Denim, Rich & Skinny, David Kahn and more.
Receive a gift with purchase of any pair of denim jeans.
November 27th one day only – Couples Christmas Gift Day (open
until 7:30 pm this day only)
Womenswear and Menswear are proud to host the 2nd annual
Couples Christmas Gift Day at B.I. Celebrate Gift Day with us and
receive a 20% discount on all purchases in-store, all day November
27th. Bring your significant other or a friend or both, and enjoy chocolates, appetizers from Feys & Hobbs, and a glass of wine or Stella Artois
until 7:30 p.m.
Gift wrapping is available with a minimum $5 donation to Victoria
Hospice, a need keenly felt at this festive time of year.
Enter to win one of two British Importers gift certificates of
$100 valid for your next purchase(s).
And remember, there’s plenty of free parking at B.I.!
December 26th
Closed on Boxing Day for pre-sale set-up.
December 27th- 31st - Boxing Week Unadvertised Sale
Starting at 9:30 a.m. on Saturday, December 27th ,our semi-annual
storewide clearance is made available to you prior to advertising to the
general public.
All in-stock items in both menswear and womenswear are on sale with
savings of up to 70% off the regular price. The sale will be advertised for
Friday, January 2nd .
Shop early for best selection of styles, sizes, fits and colours.
January 1, 2009 – New Year’s Day
Closed on New Year’s Day .
auto
by g a r y wol l enhaupt
Bentley Brooklands
Grace, space, and oh-my-gosh pace from England’s finest
I
If you have to ask what the fuel economy rating is for the Bentley Brooklands, it’s
not the car for you.
Suffice it to say, the Brooklands is a coupe of Brobdingnagian proportions that
would do justice to the term land barge. How big is it? It’s 213 inches long, on par with
a Lincoln Town Car. It tips the scales at 5,853 pounds, about as much as a Chevy
Suburban. However, it’s as agile as cars half its weight. Think of it as an offensive
tackle with the moves of a defensive back.
The Brooklands is the coupe version of the popular Azure convertible and the fourdoor Arnage. Usually, automakers start with a coupe and develop the drop-top version as an afterthought. But the Brooklands starts on the assembly line at the Bentley
factory in Crewe, England, as an Azure.
Bentley’s rich coupe heritage provided
Handcrafted luxury
The Brooklands’ beautiful flowing lines are a testament to the traditional coachbuilding skills and craftsmanship of Crewe’s highly talented workforce. The “floating” rear screen, for example, is a contemporary take on traditional coach-built
Bentleys. The lower edge of the screen sits well above the upper edge of the boot lid
to provide a flowing, flawless line to the back of the car. This can only be achieved by
individually hand-welding the rear wings to the C-pillars. Overall, it takes a craftsman
130 hours to join the metal that makes up the body, roughly the equivalent of the time
it takes Toyota to assemble ten Corollas.
design and engineering are thoroughly
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british importers magazine
the stimulus for Dirk van Braeckel,
director of styling, and his design team.
For van Braeckel, the task was very
clear: “To create a powerful, muscular
and rakish grand touring coupe with
classic British proportions, in the finest
Bentley tradition.”
While the new Brooklands is influenced
by Bentley’s fine coupe lineage, its
contemporary. The proportions of long
bonnet, short front overhang, and long
rear overhang achieve the design
objective perfectly, while the low
roofline, steeply raked screens, and pillarless side glass convey both power
and movement.
Winchester Galleries
Dealers in Fine Canadian, American
and European Art
Jean McEwen
Six Major Canvases
and Various Important Watercolours
September 13-30, 2008
1010 Broad Street, Victoria, B.C. V8W 1Z9 Tel. (250) 386-2773
www.winchestergalleriesltd.com
[email protected]
auto
Elegant performance
The Brooklands is the final development of the Azure–Arnage line, which will be
replaced in 2009 by an all-new big Bentley code-named BY601. Although the
Continental GT, favored coupe of rappers and Hollywood starlets, might get more
press, the majestic Brooklands truly embodies the Bentley mystique.
The mystique begins with the 6.75-liter V-8, with a basic architecture dating back
to a 1950s Packard design. The most powerful Bentley engine ever, the V-8 develops
530 horsepower and 774 lb-ft of torque, the most torque of any production automobile
engine in the world
Punch the gas pedal and the low-inertia twin turbochargers begin pumping air
with a whoooosh akin to an F-18 bursting from the carrier deck. The turbos catch up
at about 2,500 rpm as the V-8 winds up to a 4,600 rpm redline, enhancing that prodigious wave of torque.
According to Bentley, the Brooklands zooms to 60 mph in 5.0 seconds and hits the
100-mph mark just 6.7 seconds later. The reported top speed is 184 mph, which is an
amazing achievement for a car that looks like a battleship compared to a Porsche.
As with the latest Arnage, the V8 engine is mated to a six-speed transmission that
transforms the way that both parts of the drivetrain communicate. A sophisticated
locking torque converter and ESP system ensure that the driver can readily access
the prodigious power. A semi-automatic function allows manual gear selection for
even greater driver control. The fitment of twenty-inch diameter wheels as standard
reaffirms the powerful stance of the new Bentley coupe.
Bentley
Suitably tailored
Amid the warm glow of polished walnut and bright flashes of stainless steel, the
interior of the Brooklands boasts enough leather to send a PETA protestor into convulsions. It takes sixteen cow hides, 125 hours labor, and 43,507 stitches just to trim
the interior of a Brooklands. The wood veneers alone take a month to complete.
Its four-seat architecture and deeply bolstered seats lend the Brooklands’ interior
a distinctly sporting atmosphere, complemented by design accents such as aluminum foot pedals and footrest. A single-piece hide-trimmed roof lining flows uninterrupted from the front windscreen to the rear of the car.
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british importers magazine
Because there’s no need for the
rollover hoops and soft-top mechanism
of the Azure convertible, rear-seat room
is astonishing, even for passengers over
six feet tall. The Brooklands’ cabin is
wider both front and rear than the previous Bentley Continental R coupe, and it
easily exceeds the interior leg, knee, and
headroom of any luxury coupe on sale
today. The pillarless window design
enhances the feeling of space. Individual
rear seats with electrically operated
sliding cushions, set further back than
on the Azure, are separated by a new
center console, incorporating both storage and cup holders.
The British have a lovely term for customized objects, such as suits, shoes,
and of course a Bentley. An owner may
consult with the Mulliner department at
Bentley to create one’s own bespoke
Brooklands. Mulliner started as a coach
builder, back in the days when those so
inclined could buy a Bentley chassis
from the factory and have it delivered to
the shop of a builder of one’s choice for
the body.
Today, Mulliner helps owners further
tailor a motorcar for their individual
requirements with an extensive palette
of hides, veneers, carpet tones, and seat
belt colors. Mulliner will color match
upholstery, hide, carpet, or lambswool
rugs to individual specification, such as
the color of a favorite tie, painting, or
almost anything that catches your eye.
The craftspeople and consultants are
accustomed to working with rock stars
and athletes who bring their own inimitable and sometimes questionable
tastes to bear on exotic and distinctive
customized creations.
Options are few, but include a choice
of woods for the interior veneers, including bird’s-eye maple, olive ash, burr walnut, and madrona. Sporty accoutrements
include engine-turned aluminum or carbon fiber details, depending on the
options selected. A retractable “Flying
B” radiator mascot, with a choice of
chrome or painted shell, protects the
iconic symbol of the vehicle’s heritage.
Customized Investment Solutions
for the Affluent Household
A Relationship Founded On Trust
The Elbers/Crawford Investment Group
Eric Elbers, Ph.D, CIM, FCSI, Investment Advisor
Tim Crawford, CFP, CIM, FCSI, Investment Advisor
CIBC WOOD GUNDY
www.elberscrawford.com
Tel: (250) 361-2231
CIBC Wood Gundy is a division of CIBC World Markets Inc., a subsidiary of CIBC and Member CIPF.
auto
Exclusivity reigns
The Brooklands is the most exclusive Bentley in a family of exclusive vehicles. For
those who live in southern California or perhaps West Palm Beach, seeing a few
Bentleys on the street isn’t unusual. For the rest of the United States, spying any
Bentley is an infrequent occurrence. Seeing a Brooklands, let alone owning one, will
put the lucky individual in rare company.
If you want a Brooklands, place your order soon. Only 550 coupes will be made for
the entire world over the course of three years, and rumor has it that the first year of
production is already spoken for. Deliveries are scheduled to begin in mid- to late
2008.
Automotive pioneer
The Bentley name belongs to the founder of the marque, Walter Owen Bentley, better known as “W. O.” The first Bentley cars went on sale in late 1921, and the company was chronically underfunded. The Bentley Boys, a group of wealthy racing enthusiasts led by Woolf Barnato, kept the company in the news and afloat with infusions
of cash and their racing exploits. Using a dummy corporation, Rolls-Royce bought
Bentley in 1931. Soon Bentley cars were simply downmarket versions of current Rolls
Royce models. At one point, only about 5 percent of the production were badged as a
Bentley. In 1935, W. O. Bentley left the company he’d founded.
Rolls-Royce and Bentley were separated from the Rolls-Royce airplane engine
factory in 1970 and operated independently for ten years until Rolls-Royce Motors
was bought by Vickers, an aerospace manufacturer. In 1998, Rolls-Royce and Bentley
Motors were purchased from Vickers by Volkswagen Group in a bidding war with
BMW. BMW had recently started supplying components for the new range of cars,
notably V-8 engines for the Bentley Arnage and V-12 engines for the Rolls-Royce
Silver Seraph. The Rolls-Royce name was not included in VW’s purchase; it was
instead licensed to BMW by the Rolls-Royce aero engine company.
BMW and Volkswagen came to an agreement whereby Volkswagen would manufacture both Bentley and Rolls-Royce cars until the end of 2002. Then the right to
build Rolls-Royce cars reverted to BMW. Today, Volkswagen continues production of
Bentley cars.
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british importers magazine
The Brooklands name springs from the
famed Brooklands racetrack, the first
custom-built banked motor race circuit
in the world. In the 1920s, the immortal
“Bentley Boys” forged the Bentley reputation for the stylishly impeccable performance. Driver Frank Clement won
Bentley’s first race at Brooklands in
1921, and Bentleys went on to win Le
Mans five times. The Brooklands circuit
fell into disuse during World War II and
after the war became home to a large
part of Britain’s aircraft industry. Parts of
the old banking survive as historic sites.
eto ns h ir ts . c o m
travel
H
by g a r y wol l enhaupt
Global Treks
Culture travel brings friends together across the borders
High on a windswept hillside, archers tease and cajole their foes in a traditional
Bhutanese archery contest. Dressed in a traditional gho, or a knee-length kimonolike robe, and knee socks, the archers bend bows of hand-carved bamboo, sending
arrows toward a slim wooden target dug into the dirt about 460 feet away.
Through an interpreter, one of the archers tells an American grandfather and his
grandson to take their turn. The pair has journeyed from Chicago to this remote
Himalayan mountain kingdom to make memories that will last a lifetime. The pair
roomed with a Bhutanese family, ate local delicacies, and toured the castle-like
dzongs, voluminous buildings erected without a single nail.
The grandson’s arrows hit the dirt near the target, and the grandfather’s shots fall
many yards short. But the archers embrace the men for their effort, and the smiles tell
the story that doesn’t require a common language.
With ten days in Bhutan, the grandfather and his grandson created a bond that will
sustain them for the rest of their lives, and also made friends in a far-away place.
Off the beaten path
Though they may not know it, the pair is part of a travel trend called “geotourism.”
The goal is to go beyond the “If it’s Tuesday, this must be Belgium” syndrome that
gives travel, especially by American travelers, a bad reputation around the globe.
According to the National Travel Association, more than fifty-five million
Americans participate in geotourism, defined as “tourism that sustains or enhances
the geographical character of a place: its environment, culture, aesthetics, heritage,
and the well-being of its residents.”
“We customize each day from a combination of our recommendations and
their interests,” Ganz said. “Some people
want to focus on food and cooking
classes, others want an adventurous
trip. They want each day to balance
everyone’s interests.”
Getting to know the unique culture of a
country like Bhutan, which opened its
borders to tourism only in 1974, draws
many travelers.
Many travelers now want to connect to the local culture rather than skipping
between tourist attractions, according to Ashley Ganz, president of Artisans of
Leisure, a travel agency in New York City that specializes in customized vacations in
exotic locations. She consults with every member of a traveling party to determine
what everyone expects out of the vacation. The group may be an extended family taking the trip of a lifetime or a father–son or father–daughter pair intent on a bonding
trip or even a couple extending a business trip to squeeze in a few vacation days.
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british importers magazine
“They want to experience the local
lifestyle of a place, getting beyond the
famous attractions and visit the lesserknown places within each location that
we think are the most interesting and
will reveal what makes that place
unique,” Ganz said.
Bhutan is one of the most popular destinations now, due in no small part to the
fact that the government limits the
number of tourists. “It’s still one of the
most traditional and interesting locations in the world,” Ganz said.
feysandhobbs.com
250.380.0390
travel
Cultural imperatives
Destinations with vibrant indigenous cultures draw travelers hungry for an authentic experience. Even in developed nations such as Japan, cultural traditions remain
strong. For travelers to the Land of the Rising Sun, Ganz has arranged private tea ceremonies, private dinners, and conversations with geisha. Private meditation in a Zen
garden and cooking classes offer opportunities for interaction with practitioners of
the arts. “People are interested in the traditional culture of Japan,” she said.
Morocco, on the northwest coast of Africa, is another exotic location finding favor
with travelers looking to venture off the standard tourist treks. Attending a Moroccan
wedding is said to be an unforgettable experience. The splendor and length of the
wedding itself is surprising. The bride can also wear up to seven robes, each of a different color. The henna ceremony is a central element in the rite. The nakkacha, an
artist, draws wonderful floral patterns on the hands and feet of the bride. The hdia is
another important moment: the groom’s family presents the bride with symbolic gifts,
such as perfumes, silk, and flowers.
Moroccan tradition also requires the bride and groom to sit on two large decorated dais that are borne aloft into the ballroom. There is no need to be an expert in tradition to share the joy of one of the most important celebrations in the kingdom. The
ceremony is controlled by négafates, women who are perfectly familiar with customs
and who lead the festivities.
“We bypass tourist attractions only when the traveler feels they can be missed,”
– Ashley Ganz
South Africa, a nation rich in history and struggle, beckons with cultural and natural attractions. To understand the strife that shaped this nation, start with Robben
Island. For nearly four hundred years, the prison island was a place of banishment
and isolation. During the apartheid years, Robben Island gained world status as the
“home” of Nelson Mandela (and other political prisoners). Many of the freedom fighters spent more than a quarter of a century on this island. Today, Robben Island symbolizes people’s struggle for freedom.
Constitution Hill, the new home of South Africa’s Constitutional Court, is also the
site of the notorious Old Fort Prison Complex, known as Number Four. It was here
that thousands of people were brutally punished before the onset of democracy in
1994. Many leading political activists spent time here, including Nelson Mandela and
Mahatma Gandhi.
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british importers magazine
For natural beauty, the Kruger to Canyon
Biosphere Reserve bridges Limpopo and
Mpumalanga provinces at the interface of
the Eastern Drakensberg Escarpment and
central Lowveld. It encompasses the
greater Kruger National Park bioregion, the
eastern savannah, and the Eastern
Escarpment of South Africa, a vast area of
vital ecological importance.
It has spectacular scenery ranging from
deep canyons and thick mist-belt forests,
to rolling bushveld and mountain grasslands. Obviously, watching wild game is a
prime attraction, but other activities run
the spectrum from leisurely to extreme.
These range from picnicking and horseback-riding to whitewater rafting, rappelling, gorge swinging, and even hot air
ballooning. Golfers will be thrilled to know
there are courses adjacent to the Kruger
where game wanders about the greens.
To experience the culture of a foreign land,
Ganz recommends a minimum of a six- or
seven-day trip, and she says ten or fourteen
days are even better. In some cases, a cultural tour may bypass the traditional tourist
sites in favor of opportunities to interact
with local people. But if you can’t imagine
going to Egypt without seeing the Sphinx, by
all means, put that on your itinerary.
LACOSTE MENSWEAR PRODUCTS ARE AVAILABLE AT
960, YATES STREET • VICTORIA • 250.386.1496
staff
Arthur Naubert
Thirty-five years of style
A
Arthur (Art) Naubert started his career in the clothing business in Edmonton,
Alberta, working at Henry Singer Ltd. as a teenager. Sporting hip clothes, blonde hair
half way down his chest, and an eye-popping, droopy Fu Manchu moustache, Art fit
right into the swinging sixties lifestyle. This, of course, made him a perfect choice for
all of Singer’s younger customers.
Art went on to manage Henry the Third, Singer’s Mod Shop. Meanwhile, Henry
Singer’s other two stores lost their managers, James Roberts and Michael Goldberg,
who fled Alberta to set up their own shop in Victoria. Buying British Importers in
1972, Jim and Mike quickly talked Art into moving to the coast to join them as a partner in their new venture just a short year later.
With a memory like an elephant, and more great taste than ought to be legal for one
person to have, Art has plied his trade at B.I. with diligence and determination.
Now, in 2008, thirty-five years after starting at B.I., Art is beginning to wind down
his working life. Somehow he managed
to hornswoggle his long time partner,
Philip (Phil) Nyren, into purchasing Art’s
portion of the business, leaving Phil to
fend for himself. Meanwhile, starting
March first of this year, Art has cut back
his work week to four days with the
intent of reducing his time at B.I. over the
coming years.
Literally, thousands of customers have been fortunate enough to deal with Art, who
makes an effort to befriend each person at every transaction. Sharp, personable, and
keen as mustard, Art has done his best to ensure each and every sale is meaningful,
both fashionably and personally, to each and every person who makes a purchase
through him.
For those customers who deal exclusively with Art, it’ll be Wednesday to
Saturday, at least for 2008. Why not drop
by and find out for yourself what he’ll be
up to in the coming days?
It was 1973, and it was here in Victoria the legend of Arthur Naubert was born.
Starting at British Importers, on the corner of Yates and Broad Streets (now home to
a recently closed A & B Sound) Art started in on what would become a long and successful career in the sale of men’s clothing at retail.
16
british importers magazine
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fashion
O
ALBERTO
Modern, innovative and classic in pure masculine style
Outstanding quality is the essence of the collection by the Mönchengladbachbased fashion company ALBERTO for the autumn/winter season 2008/09. ALBERTO
is expanding its competence in the field of men’s trousers with elaborate production
processes and high-quality materials.
The Alberto Fall/Winter collection consists of dressy trousers, casual trousers
and jeans. Dressy trousers include elegant legwear for business and leisure-time
such as the classic Ceramica models with new, more advanced features, luxurious
wool looks and high-quality cotton slacks. The name says it all in the casual trouser
category; this group is dominated by cotton pieces in casual styles and washes. In
addition to a wide range of coloured denims, jeans also come in blacks and greys.
Masculine washes with authentic finishes and destroyed effects are the most popular. The jeans segment is rounded off by pieces suitable for businesswear – sophisticated denims for pairing with a shirt and sports jacket.
There are several fits to choose from. COMFORT-FIT, the most popular, featuring
loose-fitting models, MODERN-FIT includes styles with a lower waist and a contemporary silhouette and the stylish SLIM-FIT cut characterised by low waists and a figure-fitting silhouette.
The lion’s share of the collection is formed by a range of 5-pocket trousers in all
three fits.Tone-in-tone stitching, carefully crafted buttons and rivets as well as tasteful labelling clearly signify the high quality of these models. In addition to the 5-pocket models, ALBERTO offers handsome slacks which are also available in high-quality cotton fabrics as luxury chinos. In the SLIM-FIT category, slacks made of hightech fibres have a slight shine while others come in rugged wool denim.
The collection is dominated by the beautiful non-color black. Together with the
shades of grey found in the denims as well as a wide spectrum of earthy and brown
nuances, the ALBERTO color palette conveys a sense of true elegance, understatement and purism.
18
british importers magazine
by t odd t uf t s
Alberto has a long history of tradition.
The brand has specialized in making
men’s trousers since 1922. In that time,
the company has proved what is needed for creating high-quality, contemporary fashion: the experience of three
generations of precision workmanship
combined with technological innovation and a marked feel for trends as
well as select materials and special
attention to every detail.
Since the middle of the 1980s, the third
generation of the tailoring dynasty has
developed the design and direction for
today. With a solid foundation based on
decades of professional experience in
the manufacture of pants, Georg
Walendy took a risk by focusing on the
interaction of textile innovation and
trend-setting fashion. Alberto is now
available in more than 42 countries.
Whether for business, casual style, or a
golf outfit, Alberto pants are enjoying
growing popularity due to the consistently successful combination of innovative ideas and wearable fashion.
fashion
by l esl i e c. smi t h
the soft
touch
Fall Clothing Designed to Feel as Comfortable as it Looks
W
Warm colors, gentled lines, malleable hides, and cushy materials. Are the stylesetters trying to tell us something this season? Such as, men don’t have to be so
hard-edged all the time; that they are permitted to occasionally show a softer side?
There’s evidence aplenty in fall–winter designer collections to back up this mellow
assertion. However, as always, you must judge the matter for yourself.
Today’s hoodies and sweatpants are often
made from precious fibers such as cashmere, and boast tailored touches that raise
them above the louche garments favored
by discount shoppers. They are also intended to be worn with other casual pieces, lay-
Wooly Thinking
It’s no surprise that knitwear is being offered for fall 2008. Knitwear is offered
every fall. But rarely does it dominate casual clothing to today’s extent. Close examination of the sample ensembles presented this season indicate that almost without
exception each featured at least one knitted piece.
This could be as simple as a wool toque perched atop a model’s head, like the innumerable versions seen in New York, London, Paris, and Milan. Or it could be as complex as Dolce & Gabbana’s big round-neck angora sweater paired with what might be
considered the ultimate in relaxed decadence, gray cashmere sweatpants.
Refined sweat bottoms such as these, could be termed “stealth” knits. Sweats,
machine-made from thick cotton or woolen fibers, resemble cloth fabric in their ability to drape down the body and be cut and sewn in sections, yet they remain knits at
heart. Once, their wardrobe access was limited strictly to the gym, but over the past
several decades, sweatpants and their accompanying hooded sweatshirts have crept
into our casual dress lexicon until at present they appear to be rivaling denim in their
street credibility.
20
british importers magazine
photo courtesy of new man
ered over tees or open-necked shirts and
under pullovers or cardigans, right up to
and including successful teaming with a
relaxed-fit sport coat.
Continuing the soft knit theme for fall are
three veteran musketeers of menswear:
cardigans, V-neck pulls, and funnel-neck
sweaters. These too slide easily into this
season’s insatiable demand for layers, with
cards in particular often used in place of a
sport coat and thinner gauge cards and Vnecks doubling as vests under a sport coat.
The ubiquitous funnel apparently has an
all-access pass—it’s free to go everywhere
and with everything.
fashion
All Your Marbles
Mottles, gray striations, splashes of white on dark. The marbled pattern trend was
most noticeable—and most noticeably over the top—at the Jil Sander show, where
male models resembled not so much Greek statues as kitchen countertops. Then
there were the snakeskin-like gray-and-white cardigans at Alexander McQueen and
similar colored effects, as well as enlarged gray-and-white paisleys, on Burberrry
Prorsum’s shirts and scarves.
Reduce it all down for the real world and that means a big thumbs up for the quiet
marled beauty found in gray-and-white tweed.
Most commonly used for sport coats, gray tweed offers a loftier, softer appearance
to tailored lines, as well as providing a warmer, more inviting environ for accompanying knitwear. Because of this, the trousers worn with a tweed jacket require enough
fabric heft—a plush twill or corduroy, say—for correct visual balance. Somehow,
jeans don’t seem to cut it.
Of course, you can always cut right to the chase by forgoing the sport coat altogether and selecting a pair of grey tweed trousers. These too will work perfectly with
any one (or two or three) of this season’s top knit picks. Or you might opt for the
sweater itself in a gray-and-white marled knit.
The more fashion-forward could invest in a pair of gray tweed sock-boots, like
those shown at Emporio Armani. But for most men, tweed should retain its relative
dignity, sticking mainly to still fashionable tailored pieces, such as trousers, sport
coats and topcoats.
The Velvet Underground
Only one type of man can get away with
wearing velvet. He must be at once a
sensualist—someone who loves brushing his hand over the soft, raised pile of
the material—and an iconoclast, a person unafraid of donning a plum velvet
tuxedo jacket, such as those exhibited at
Dolce
&
Gabbana
and
Burberry
Prorsum, when the mood calls for it. On
a more practical note, he also must not
own a fur-shedding pet or be a martyr to
dandruff.
In a way, it’s a shame that velvet should
be restricted to only a select few males.
After all, this cushy fabric is ideal for cold
weather and dyes wonderfully, offering
a great depth of color. Velvet possesses
as well a rich and varied history dating
back to the thirteenth century, and it can
be styled into anything one fancies:
coats, trousers, suits, even shirts and the
aforementioned tuxedo jackets.
One must face facts, however. And the
fact is, no matter how warm and fuzzy
designers want to be this fall, all their
proffered velvet pieces are not enough
to convince most men that this fabric
won’t somehow sissify them. It doesn’t
help matters, either, when stylists like
Kris Van Assche start parading around
such icky things as a black velvet jumpsuit.
So for everybody but a small handful of
rule-bending, balding, non-cat-owning
sensualists, the soft fabric of choice this
season will not be velvet but corduroy,
that manly—one might even call it ultramasculine—material
whose
vertical
wales are cut straight from (didn’t you
photo courtesy of hiltl
Cold Comfort
Fur coats are a likewise dicey issue. They share velvet’s warmth and cushy hand,
and also its suspiciously feminine connotations, rather like the bad rap poodles have
been given all these years. Then, too, there is the matter whether the use of fur is
morally justified. Should we be encouraged to wear the skins of other creatures? The
answer to that question would be remarkably different depending on whether you
lived in Miami or Toronto.
But we do tend to feel friendlier toward just a touch of fur trim on our outerwear—
on the collar of an overcoat or leather jacket, say, or around a parka hood. After all, this
is functional fur. It is performing a role in helping us maintain proper upper body temperature, protecting otherwise exposed skin and retaining physical warmth. Yes, it
does happen to be very in at the moment, but that’s of secondary importance, isn’t it?
22
british importers magazine
know?) velvet cloth.
:
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t rut h
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surveys, subdivision planning
fashion
t he sof t t ouch
Shear Logic
Nearly as useful, just as beautiful in its own right, and certainly a lot less controversial, is shearling. A renewable fashion resource,
sheep’s pelt is great for lining outerwear jackets and plumping up their collars. It also carries with it the he-man bonus of a long association with gear for barnstorming pilots and warplane bombardiers alike.
So, despite its soft, comfy nature—and despite the fact that it is more or less identical to poodle hair—shearling ranks high on the
masculity meter, which is just as well, because although you may be able to side-step fur, there really is no way to avoid being sheepish this season.
The curly wool was on view everywhere at Milan’s fashion runways for fall, from the
sublime, fully lined knee-length leather coats to a ridiculous shaggy knee-length poncho. One design house displayed a gigantic shearling overcoat paired with leather
shearling jeans. There were rubber-footed, shearling-topped boots, shearling interior
boots, and shearling Sherpa hats at numerous shows.
All of this means that if you feel like indulging your inner need for something warm
and welcoming this year, you simply can’t go wrong with following shear logic.
Bag It Up
If you think leather has been forgotten in this slew of tactile materials, think again.
Bombers and hip-length jackets, predominantly in silky, butter-soft black hides, are current outerwear kings and likely will remain so for the long haul.
As for hauling things around, there is only one real carrier to contend with this season. Every style-maker (save for Gucci and Lanvan, who decided that clutch purses
were the way for men to go) outfitted their models with large, soft leather satchels.
These bags, long on the handles and big on accompanying shoulder straps, are flexible in more than just their bodies. Besides being able to hold gym clothes, a book or
three, plus a half-dozen necessities and still have room left over for a laptop, their very
suppleness provides the perfect complement to today’s softened up wardrobes.
Like the rest of fall 2008 menswear, the only hard thing about them will be in trying to
resist their allure.
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b y KO LT E I TA LY
fashion
by ba rba r a e. cohen
Hywel Davies graduated
from Central Saint
Martins College of Art &
Design, London, in 1998
with a degree in fashion
communication. He has
written for many prestigious international fashion magazines and newspapers, and he works as
a style and trend consultant for contemporary
fashion brands. His first
book, Modern Menswear,
was published in
February 2008, and his
second publication, 100
New Fashion Designers,
will be released this fall.
Mr. Davies sat down for a
chat about the
fashion designers
and clothes profiled
in Modern Menswear.
MODERN MENSWEAR
An Exclusive interview with Hywel Davies
26
british importers magazine
fashion
t he mode r n m an
Q: What is “modern” about the menswear surveyed in Modern Menswear?
Hywel Davies:The book looks at contemporary menswear designers who are challenging pre-organized ideas and conventions about men’s clothing. It is not a trend
indicator or an advice book for men on how to dress. It is primarily concerned with
communicating and highlighting contemporary, high-end menswear fashion. It doesn’t focus on tradition or historical costume, but it’s a modern snapshot of international fashion designers and the processes that fuel their design ideas.
Q: Men seem to crave rules for proper dressing, so what’s wrong with a little
conformity if it ensures a man is always appropriately dressed for the office,
sports, a date or relaxing with friends?
HD: There is nothing wrong with conformity, but modern fashion, and not just
menswear, is about expressing individuality and distinct style. The globalization of
fashion has meant that most people look the same, and this is now considered rather
bland. Without these visionary menswear designers, everyone will continue to look
the same and fashion will not move on. We have moved past the “Gap” concept of uniformity.
Davies offers a hip
take on the
“new guard” in
men’s fashion
Q: With boundaries between the suit-and-tie crowd and the T-shirt-and-jeans
crowd blurring, can a modern man express himself seriously through clothing without being taken as a drudge, a dandy, or worse, a buffoon?
HD: I am not sure if there are boundaries anymore. Men choose to wear different
clothes at different times. A lot of how men choose to dress comes down to their own
personal style and attitude. Men can still dress badly in a suit and look modern and
fashionable in jeans and a T-shirt and vice versa. People dress differently for different occasions, and everyone should aim to dress appropriately for whatever occasion.
Q: If a businessman wants to start expanding his wardrobe, where should
he begin? What do you recommend for our clients transitioning from the traditional “perfect 10 items” wardrobe mentality to the new eclecticism?
HD: It is very difficult to advise men as a whole about which designers they should look
to. Men should choose the designers they find interesting personally. I’m really against
the idea of dictating what anybody should wear. Modern menswear is about choice.
If you were being specific to a businessman’s wardrobe, then he could adopt a contemporary suit—contemporary in terms of cut and fabric. He can also introduce the
idea of a three-piece suit, which is now inherently modern. Modern Menswear is not
focused on tailored clothing or suits, but for the best suits, men should choose
bespoke suits, which are made individually to fit the wearer. Cut, silhouettes, quality,
and fabric are the keys to a good suit.
Q: In the same light, can you recommend one new trend every businessman
should embrace immediately, in his casual if not his business wardrobe?
HD: A tie with a matching handkerchief in the suit pocket is a small detail that is
modern, and patent leather shoes have been regarded as contemporary for a few seasons now.
Q: How can a middle-aged businessman adopt the hipper styles without
appearing to be youth-obsessed or being labeled as going through a midlife crisis? Do the youth trends sit better in some industries than others?
HD: Classic menswear is not about following trends. It is about choosing quality
clothing and an individual style that is right for you as a wearer.
28
british importers magazine
MODERN MENSWEAR TOP 5 RULES:
1. Choose quality fabrics.
2. Ensure clothes fit you properly.
3. Dress appropriately for the occasion.
4. Don’t live by trends.
5. Choose neutral colors.
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fashion
Q: Given the blurred lines, can you still define sportswear as separate from
business casual? Aren’t the new hybrids just a new set of rules?
HD: If you look at Modern Menswear, many of the designers mix casual with formal,
street wear with suits and so forth. Being modern is about creating interesting combinations that suit you as an individual.
Q: Are men now showing their style by the designers they select? If so, which
designers are most favored in specific kinds of work environments? Which
are most suitable to business, which better confined to weekend wear?
HD: Fortunately, none of the designers in the book subscribe to the smart/casual,
work/weekend-wear rules. Their focus is to create clothes that transcend old ideas of
when specific clothes should be worn.
Q: In your view, what’s the biggest problem men face in finding stylish clothing today?
HD: I don’t think there should be any problem with men finding stylish clothing.
Everything is essentially available to anyone no matter where you live. The biggest
obstacle is old-fashioned attitudes of what can be worn and when. If there was one
issue, I think it would be cost, and quality clothing will always cost more.
Q: Who do you see emerging to take center stage in the next five years?
HD: Raf Simons is really emerging as a fashion force for his unrivalled vision and
contemporary use of fabrics and cut.
Q: Many of the clothes in the photographs in Modern Menswear are witty. In
a serious business setting, what place does wit having in clothing?
HD: None at all. Nothing at all should detract from business.
Q: When does clothing with wit become “costume” rather than “fashion”?
HD: When it is no longer practical.
Q: If a man still favors wearing a suit, how can he assert his individuality
beyond the tie or colored shirt?
HD: A top-quality suit with beautiful shoes.
Q: For someone who can’t see himself in a white jacket with red polka dots
and blue-and-white striped pants, how do you get that reader to open the
book and find the nuggets of information that speak to him?
HD: People who pick up the book will hopefully be inspired by the aesthetic.The book
is not a “How to be stylish” guide or “How to pick up on trends.” If the reader wants
that, they should buy Details. The book can best be viewed as a documentary of contemporary international menswear.
30
british importers magazine
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“Tradition & Trust for Over 30 Years”
fashion
by l esl i e c. smi t h
Long & Lean
Fall is all lined up behind long lines.
Pencil skirts, many reaching midi and
maxi lengths unseen since the 1970s, are
practically de rigueur. Trousers feature
slim silhouettes, often with slightly
cropped ankles. Jackets are fitted close
to the body, and several styles boast
bottoms that fall far past one’s own.
Aiding this straight and narrow appearance are visually lengthening accessories, such as brightly colored tights,
pointy-toed stilettos, and knee boots
below; pronounced shoulders and collars above; plus lanky, well-tailored
coats over top the lot. Remember to
keep your fabrics and patterns on the
lightweight solid side, thus promoting a
clean, vertical profile.
Practical Panache
With a Touch of Old-Fashioned Eroticism
I
It’s that time of the year again. Time to brush off your fall seasonal
wear, checking to see which pieces in your wardrobe are most closely aligned to today’s trends while making mental notes of those areas
in need of an upgrade. If you’re as major a multitasker as I am, you are
also likely to be simultaneously cooking dinner, applying some lipstick, and keeping an eye on your kids. Women really are amazing
creatures, aren’t they?
And the designers this season seem to agree. Women’s fall clothing is, for the most part, well suited to our realistic needs, being both
functional and accessible, feminine without being overtly sexualized,
and cleanly styled instead of fussily ornate. A refreshing change from
such past, impractical indulgences as gypsy dirndls and babydoll
shifts. So, let’s review what you’ll need to make some refreshing
changes of your own.
32
british importers magazine
photo courtesy of cinzia rocca
Guy Style
Just like women do in real life, occasionally swiping things like ball caps,
white dress shirts, and cabled pullovers
from the man’s side of the closet, stylists each season make playful raids on
menswear classics.
This fall is no exception, but it does
provide an exception to the above rule
about sticking with lighter, plainer fabrics. Because this fall, male mode is all
about Scottish plaids and tweeds, and
women are following suit, especially
when it comes to suits.
Skirted or trousered, you can’t miss
with a business-like outfit in a quiet,
marled gray tweed or, conversely, an
extravagantly hued and patterned plaid.
Unlike the guys, though, you’re allowed
to cinch your jacket’s waist in place with
a smart leather belt.
Other “boyfriend” trends to be on the
lookout for include work-inspired denim
outerwear, tailored vests, and tuxedo
jackets, which are now permissible for
placing, sport coat–like, over any number of casual ensembles.
fashion
Let’s Neck
Another similarity between the sexes this season is the way visual emphasis centers
on the throat area. Anything designed to create the impression of a long neck is welcome,
which is why women’s fashion items to look for include droopy, chunky necklaces, shirts
and jackets with stand-up collars, as well as V-front shirts, jackets, and knits.
Dresses, in particular, favor high-rising, pseudo-Victorian necklines with little ruches
on top, and dresses and dress shirts quite often come equipped with big self-fabric bows
at the collar. For both sexes, the favored furnishing this season is the funnel-neck sweater.
Try choosing yours in lighter gauge knits, as these possess a more feminine appearance
and are easier to work with when it comes to this fall’s fondness for layered looks.
Demure Dressing
High necklines and low skirts are just a portion of the picture. Throw in a few ruffles
and fringes, big bows and poufed sleeves, and you’re well on your way to a kind of
Victorian chic that is oddly erotic in the way it promises as much as it conceals.
A large factor in this really retro trend is that most great-grandmotherly of fabrics—
lace. Coy in its overall appearance yet still capable of giving multiple sexy glimpses of
skin, lace allows you have your tea cake and eat it too.
A clingy lace blouse is a must-have this season, great for gussying up everything
from a decorous skirt to a pair of jeans. The need-it-now dress is one in neck-to-knee (or
lower) lace, shaded anyway you like it, from dark black or raisin, to neutral mushroom or
ivory, to bright chrome red or copper orange.
Strict Structure
There is a school of thought out there
that women’s cocktail dresses now need
to be built along strictly geometric lines,
with stiff, controlled swaths of fabric
swooping around the body like the concrete facing on the latest Frank Gehry
structure.
This minimalist, even intellectual,
approach to glamour can be eyecatching, but it can also appear quite
severe—so if you do choose to go this
route, think about softening the overall
impact by wearing your hair loosely
styled and selecting pretty pink shades
for your evening makeup.
Blue Hues
Blue is the new black, especially in denim, and more especially in denim shades ranging from dark-washed indigo to powder blue distressed. Then there’s turquoise, teal, peacock, and electric blue to contend with, which lend punch to such small accessories as shoes
and handbags.
Purples are also popular. Look for lilacs, violets, and all sorts of wine colors in clothes ranging from going-to-town dresses to stay-athome sweatsuits. But pay strictest attention to plum, which is definitely the shade du jour, seen everywhere and on everything, as well
as being the kickiest color to brighten this season’s tights.
34
british importers magazine
photos courtesy of cinzia rocca
Jewellery Designs © 2008 IDAR
).4%2.!4)/.!,!7!2$7)..).'*%7%,,%29$%3)'.%23s3).#% s4s&/24 346)#4/2)!"# 66+s777)$!2#/-
fashion
pr act ica l panache
Hot Hues
Naturally, autumnal oranges and
golds, mustard to chestnut browns, rust
and leaf reds are with us, perfectly right
for fall casual clothing and outerwear,
and occasionally showing up in an
office-worthy plaid suit. What still
seems to be a big color secret, though,
is buff yellow. So if you want to stay
ahead of the game, consider getting a
coat in this great neutral shade. It layers
beautifully with both plain solids and
strongly colored and patterned garments, plus it’s ideal for partnering with
all your denim pieces.
Hides to Seek
When the mercury dips, nothing keeps you warmer than natural fur. This season’s
fur coats are not, however, the flashy showstoppers of yesteryear but rather simply
shaped pieces designed primarily for weather protection. Fur vests and coat collars
are a part of this outerwear equation, the former fitting in nicely with the season’s
penchant for layered looks and the latter helping to frame the face, thereby elongating the body.
Shearling collars and linings are also enormously popular. Tough enough to brave
the coldest weather yet still cushiony soft against one’s face and neck, shearling
adds necessary dash to this winter’s otherwise plainly styled leather bombers and
twill overcoats.
If you want to go out with a big finish, try topping off your outerwear with a trendy
plaid scarf, and don’t forget to take along a new long-handled leather purse. A tall
pair of suede boots, with or without a strip of shearling trim at the calf, will score you
bonus fashion points.
36
british importers magazine
photos courtesy of cinzia rocca
BY
MALENE BIRGER
MB
C
fashion
by ba rba r a e. cohen
tweed
To the Manor Born
Tweed is a fabric fit for kings—and kings of commerce
S
Sometimes put off by the tweedy, flecked, or speckled sport jacket because it is
the uniform of a certain kind of pipe-smoking college English lit prof. But academics love the tweed sport coat for a reason, and the heathery textile deserves a place
The woolen yarns used in the fabric’s
manufacture assure tweed’s durabili-
in every man’s wardrobe.
ty. The comfort of a tweed garment
derives from the plain or twill weave
structure as well as from the fuller cut
Embrace the fleck
Tweed—a nubby-textured, durable fabric perfect for sport coats, overcoats, and
trousers—maintains its strong association with the English gentry. His Royal
typical of tweed jackets, coats, and
pants. Tweeds are easily identifiable
by their simple checked or herringbone patterns and soft color gradations due to the use of multiple strands
Highness the Duke of Windsor embraced tweeds as a distinctly English product,
of plied, or twisted, yarns.
While an entire suit of tweed might give
drawing on the tradition of English kings and queens wearing Scottish- and Irishmanufactured tweed garments at their country places, such as Balmoral Castle.
Tweeds are popular from the bogs of Scotland to the boardrooms of America
rise to rumors about your having inherited a country estate, a two-button sport
coat (elbow patches optional) of this
easy-care fabric makes a great substitute for the ubiquitous blue blazer. For
because garments made of these soft, flexible woolen fabrics retain their shape
the office, tweeds come in a wide
range of earthy colors that pair well
well through many years of wear. Hunters, hikers, and horsemen don tweeds
with business casual attire, such as
khakis, jeans, and flat-front dress pants
because the fabric handles inclement weather and rough use with minimal pilling or
in neutral shades of brown, gray, or
black. Best of all, tweeds mix and
thinning. Furthermore, the fabric has a natural resistance to stains thanks to wool’s
match with a wide range of striped,
windowpane, or tattersall-checked
natural oils.
38
british importers magazine
shirtings.
fashion
Untangle tweed’s authenticity
Tweed has a murky history. The name tweed comes either from a strong association with the River Tweed in Scotland or is a corruption of the Scottish word tweel, or
“twill.” At least since 1831, the name has been attached to a group of rugged woolen
fabrics handwoven in Scotland and Donegal, Ireland, using only premium wool spun
from British or Irish sheep.
For the best quality, look for tweed fabrics with authenticity labels. For example,
garments made from genuine Harris Tweed, a trademarked fabric from northern
Scotland, will carry the Harris Tweed Authority’s label.
By law, Harris Tweed is handwoven on traditional looms by crofters working on the
Isles of Harris, Lewis, Uist, and Barra in the Outer Hebrides, using local—often handspin or hand-dyed—virgin wool. Harris Tweed weavers recently began producing a
thinner fabric perfect for less-bulky versions of traditional garments. Another choice
is Donegal tweed, also a handwoven twill of hand-spun yarns, but manufactured in
County Donegal, Ireland.
Lightweight tweeds are ideal for spring
and autumn wear, while heavier, traditional wool tweeds remain a staple for
outdoor sports or commuting to and
from work. Tweeds also turn up in
women’s fashion inspired by menswear,
such as the trouser suit.
tweed
From high fashion to high function
Coco Chanel elevated tweed fabrics, previously restricted to the shops of
Britain’s bespoke tailors, from country fields to couturier runways. She paved the
way for tweed’s acceptance by ready-to-wear designers such as Max Mara, Jigsaw,
Wallis, Aquascutum, and Burberry.
If this all sounds a little high-minded for what is essentially a rough-and-tumble
fabric, consider that many tweeds of lesser pedigree have similar qualities of comfort
and durability. Asian cloth manufacturers can reproduce tweed-inspired fabrics on
commercial looms with commercially spun yarns. But beware tweeds with drastically lower price tags because a garment’s lasting value will be directly related to the
quality of the wool yarns in the fabric.
Although weather once determined this fabric’s popularity, tweeds aren’t just for
outwear in the coldest or wettest months anymore.
40
british importers magazine
photos courtesy of CG
Best of all, tweed garments are usually
cut in traditional styles that can be worn
for years without looking dated, a bonus
considering the fabric’s long-wearing
capability. Don tweeds and prepare to
be judged both noble and wise.
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NECKWEAR
art
Richard Roblin
The nature of inspiriation
Photography by Jo-Ann Richards
www.worksphotography.ca
R
Richard Roblin is a recognized Canadian artistic master. He consistently and pas-
Suddenly, the canvas begins to light up.
sionately has pursued his artistic vision while remaining true to the deepest impuls-
Each canvas is an open door, a dance
es of his soul. Richard has quietly and steadfastly developed his coterie of
circle, a symphony of breath breathing
collectors who have been excited and inspired by his creativity.
its life through the action of the artist.
Richard’s journey as an artist has taken him throughout North America, Europe,
the Orient, and India. He has imbibed the teachings of many cultures. His passion for
creative activity extends through his practice of architecture, design, sculpture and
painting. Roblin’s works are exhibited and collected widely through commercial galleries and museums including the Museum of Modern Art in New York.
Each artist, an understudy of creation
itself, re-enacts the birth of the universe.”
Like all great art, Richard’s paintings
reveal a deeper experience as you enter
into the communication of the heart.
Last year, Roblin designed and built a
Throughout his career, he has collaborated with architects and designers to pro-
new house and studio in the Cowichan
vide site-specific artworks. He continues to do major commissions for corporate and
Valley on Vancouver Island. He is cur-
private collectors.
rently creating new works for collectors
“I love to paint,” Roblin says. “The nature of my painting activities is to engage
with the magical resonances of colour and form. I play with the dynamics of luminosity to reveal the sense of joy, which inspires it. My process of painting is to begin by
drawing with colour a line or a shape. Everything that emerges is defined by that primary impulse which is like the leap of a dancer onto life’s stage.
42
british importers magazine
here on the West Coast.
For inquiries or a studio appointment,
please call 1-250-715-0089
Flowers from Poppies reflect your good taste
Mary-Jane Posno • Andrea Posno-Walker
poppies the Island Florist
744 Yates Street, Victoria
250.383.0743 • www.poppiestif.ca
LEONARD W. RAWLUK,
CGA
1620 COOK STREET
VICTORIA, B.C. V8T 3P1
250-388-5043
Business & Tax consultant to British Importers since 1980
drink
by shawn sool e
Agave Spirits
The unt apped Mexican elixir
T
Tequila usually brings back those memories of late nights as a youngster, your first
night at the bar trying to test your drinking stamina with shot after shot of cheap
tequila, each shot burning, turning your night into a blur of beer chasers and a distinct
twisting in your stomach. Mezcal probably conjures up dares and pressure from fellow drinkers to eat the preserved worm or scorpion after the bottle is done. These are
the memories that come up for people all over the world when you mention the word
tequila, creating a bad name for the liquor with the Mexican spirit for life. But what
happens when your humble tequila, mezcal, or sotol gets a high-end makeover? Well
move over gimmicky burning lighter fuel! The Mexicans are bringing their art of fine
agave spirit making north.
Agave spirits can be broken down into a few distinct groups that most people have
heard of, plus a few that you may not have heard of. Everybody has heard of the
famous tequila, the trendy shot to have at the hippest joints. Tequila originates in the
area that stretches from the township of Tequila down the Jalisco coast to
Guadalajara and then east to Arandas. Tequila and agave spirits in general are produced from, you guessed it, agave. Agave, long thought to be a cactus, now has its
own classification. There are 423 species of agave in this region, not all good enough
to make tequila. The best agave to use in tequila is blue agave, but with shortages in
supply over the last ten years, many big names in tequila have used a blend of blue
agave and other agaves. These tequilas are classified as mixto.
Tequila is a labor-intensive endeavor, from the ten-year wait for the agave to
mature to the sometimes dangerous job of slicing the leaves off with a coa de jima, a
six-foot pole with a paddle-like razor-sharp blade attached to it. It takes a jimadore
less than two minutes to harvest the agave, slicing through the leaves with such precision as to not slice off his toes. The result is a pina, which resembles something of
a green and white pineapple that weighs up to 170 pounds. Inside this pina is the
sweet nectar. To obtain the nectar, the pina is baked, caramelizing the juice that will
soon be extracted by crushing the pina.Traditionally, the pina is crushed using a giant
mortar wheel towed by a mule or an ox. The nectar is then distilled straight to create
100 percent agave or mixed with water to create a mixto and then distilled in a traditional copper still. Once the tequila is finished, it is either bottled immediately to
become a blanco, aged for three weeks to five years. The periods of aging vary
between tequila, mescal, and sotol.
44
british importers magazine
Mezcals have always been associated
with the worm, or the scorpion, that lies
in wait for you at the bottom of the bottle.
To put urban legends to bed, that little
creature is not there to suck out all the
alcohol from the liquor only to give you a
high octane kick at the end of the bottle;
it’s simply a gimmick to get you to buy
mezcal. A good mezcal is great enough
on its own, though. Mezcal is a style of
agave spirit that is not for the faint of
heart. It is produced further south, in the
Oaxaca region, where the
distillation process is slightly different from tequila,
making it a worthy adversary. Mezcal distillers have
spent more than four hundred years perfecting the
spirit,
first
by
the
indigenous locals and
then the Spanish conquistadores.
It
starts
with five different varieties of agave being
harvested in a manner
similar to tequila and
then taken for the first
and very different step
of production.
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drink
The mezcal pina is shredded of its leaves and husks. The leaves are then placed
under a pit of river rocks to smoke the pina, which is covered with the husks to keep
in the flavor. The pit can be any size, but its main purpose is to smoke and heat the
pina to concentrate the natural sugars in the bulb. The smoking of the pina before
crushing is the key step in the production process; it can go on for as long as five
days. What remains after the smoking is a charred, concentrated bulb of agave syrup
ready for crushing. The steps after this are very similar to tequila, but it is the final
product that differentiates mezcal from tequila. Mezcal has a distinct, obvious smoky
nose to it, with other aromas including tar, leather, and charcoal. It is more of a sipper similar to a Speyside scotch than a quick shot at the start of the night. But when
you are about to go into the fray of agave spirits, you must try one of my favorite
styles, sotol.
Put an Agave spirit in a cask for at
least two months but not longer than a
year and what do you get? A reposado.
Reposados are the biggest-selling
agave spirits in Mexico, and why would
they not be? Mexicans use this style of
agave to pair with food as you would
wine in North America. With the light,
refreshing flavors of a blanco and hints
of the complexity of an añejo, this style
of agave gives the drinker an experience
that they can’t achieve with a blanco.
When it comes to aging of agave spirits, there is no hard and fast rule as to what you are allowed to age it in.
During my trip to Mexico for the 2008 Tequila.net Agave Spirit Awards, I was lucky enough to taste eighty-five different tequilas,
mescals, and sotols. Some had been aged in the traditional barrels, but some makers had been experimenting with port, wine,
and even Sancerre casks. This style of aging has cast new light on what agave can actually be.
A lot of people will be scratching their heads right now and asking what sotol is.
Sotol is the official spirit of the state of Chihuahua in the far north of Mexico. It is
made from a very special variety of agave plant called a Desert Spoon. It takes up to
thirty-five years to mature before it can be used to make sotol. The main difference
between sotol and other agave spirits is that it takes about half of an agave plant to
make one bottle of tequila whereas one entire plant goes into one bottle of sotol. This
makes sotol light, genuine, and unadulterated. The lack of blending creates a product
that if tasted blind would not even be recognized as an agave spirit. It’s perfect for
people who have been scarred by tequila but who want to explore the wonderful world
of agave.
Agave spirits are a complex thing, as you can already see. There are different
methods, different styles, and different aging. Aging any spirit can be beneficial in
the way that it adds complexity and balance to liquid, adding in flavors of wood,
caramel, and leather while taking out any harsher chemical flavors. There are four
distinct styles of aging for agave spirits. First, you have blanco or plata; these styles
require no aging. These are clear and are used mainly in cocktails, though in Mexico
people prefer to drink it as an aperitif before lunch in the classic fashion, neat with
salt and lime. This style of agave spirit is becoming popular with the tequila fraternity due to producers taking the time to create a great base spirit instead of letting
aging do the work. This new, invigorated thinking behind blancos and platas has
made way for drinkers who love the aged agaves to come back and try these complex
yet light spirits. These silver beauties have enlightening flavors of sweet agave nectar, tropical fruit, and refreshing citrus.
46
british importers magazine
I am grouping the last two styles
together: añejo and extra añejo. Añejo
is aged for a minimum of one year, but
less than three. This is the big daddy of
all agave spirits. It’s all about the wood
and the flavors the wood brings to the
spirit. Caramels, vanillas, and cigars
come to mind when smelling a fine
añejo; these follow through to flavors of
leather, chocolate, and sweetened
agave nectar. This is the epitome of a
fine sipping spirit, similar to a scotch or
even an aged rum. Extra añejo is the latest in aged agaves; it is aged for a minimum of five years. What does this give
you? A pure, smooth, woody cigarpaired sipper that will change your mind
forever about tequilas, mescals, and
sotols.
With North America beginning to get
more and more fine imported spirits, you
can’t help but wonder what is in store for
agave spirits. Recently, the British
Columbian Liquor Board brought in
some limited release tequilas from
Mexico. Don Julio, Corazon, and Chaya
are among the latest imports. But what
about the top-shelf mezcals being produced by Del Maguey and the Hacienda
de Chihuahua sotols, when will they get
the notoriety of tequila? Hopefully after
reading this you will head down to your
local liquor store and be looking for
these rarities. Whether you’re a purist
who likes their blanco neat with some
fine chicken tamales or a classic margarita, or maybe you are a scotch fiend
who is looking for a new conquest, whatever you may like, tequilas, mescals, and
sotols have thrown off their immoral and
sometimes downright evil reputations
and are now a force to be dealt with.
agave
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