market research - MELLISAHMAFUKENI

Céline
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C ONTENTS
4 - 8 BRAND HISTORY & BRAND IDENTITY
9 - 11 BRANDING
1 7-19 DETAIL & MATERIAL
1 2 -13 COLOUR ANALYSIS
20-2 2 PRODUCT
1 4 - 1 6 CATWALK
23-27 GAP IN THE MARKET
28 CONSUMER
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FOUNDED IN 1945 BY CÉLINE VIPIANA & HER HUSBAND,
CÉLINE STARTED OFF A CHILDRENS SHOW STORE. SLOWLY
OTHER LINES ARE INTRODUCED SUCH AS WOMENS SHOES,
PERFUME & LEATHER GOODS, WHICH ARE NOW A SELLING
POINT FOR THE CURRENT CÉLINE. IN 1967, THE
FIRST CÉLINE STORE IS OPENED ON ST.-GERMAIN DES
PRÉS, IN THE 1970’S CÉLINE OPENS A BOUTIQUE ON
RODEO DRIVE; CALIFORNIA THE STORE WAS DESCRIBED
AS “SUBDUED LUXE.” CÉLINE & HER HUSBAND PARTED
WAYS WITH THE BRAND THEY STARTED IN 1987 DUE TO
DIFFERENCES WITH AN INVESTOR.
ANNOUNCED AS PART OF THE LUXURY LVMH
GROUP IN 1994, CÉLINE SOON AFTER HAD
A NEW LEAD DESIGNER, MICHAEL KORS.
DEBUTING THE FIRST CATWALK SHOW FOR
THE FRENCH FASHION HOUSE IN 1998.
THE SAME YEAR A NEW FLAGSHIP STORE
IS OPENED IN PARIS, NEXT DOOR TO THE
HEADQUARTERS. KORS INJECTS HIS OLD
HOLLYWOOD CINEMA IN TRYING TO CREATE
AN IDENTITY FOR THE CÉLINE BRAND.
AFTER A SUCCESSFUL 6 YEARS, KORS
SHOWED HIS LAST SHOW IN 2004.
BRAND
HISTORY
ROBERTO MENICHETTI , AN ITALIAN
AMERICAN TAKES OVER FROM KORS IN 2004.
AFTER LESS THAN A YEAR THE SHOWS WERE
SO UNSUCCESSFUL WITH CRITICS & THE
PUBLIC, IT WAS AN OBVIOUS DECISION FOR
LVMH TO PART WAYS WITH MENICHETTI.
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IVANA OMAZIC A VERY YOUNG CROATIAN DESIGNER
IS APPOINTED THE CREATIVE HEAD FOR THE FASHION
HOUSE IN 2005. AT FIRST HARSHLY CRITISED BY
CRITICS FOR NOT UNDERSTANDING THE CÉLINE
DESIGN PHILOSOPHY, ONLY RECEIVING SOME PRAISE
THE FALL 2013 COLLECTION. AFTER SHOWING
POTENTIAL OMAZIC RECEIVED MORE POSITIVE
FEEDBACK FROM COLLECTIONS. SHE DEFINITELY
CONTRIBUTED ATTRIBUTES SUCH AS DOUBLE FACED
CASHMERE, & THE RELAXED TROUSER NOW USED
OFTEN BY HER SUCCESSOR PHOEBE PHILO.
PHOEBE PHILO AS HEAD WAS ANNOUNCED IN 2009, THE SAVIOR OF
CÉLINE. REJUVENATING THE BRAND WITH A KEY ELEMENT OF “COOL
MINIMALIST” BUT REMAINING TRUE TO PARISIAN ORIGIN. PHOEBE
PHILO HAVING FORMERLY WORKED FOR CHLOÉ, PHOEBE APPLIED WHAT
SHE LEARNT & TRANSFORMED CÉLINE IN TO A DESIRABLE BRAND
AGAIN.
RST2010
THE FIRST COLLECTION BY PHOEBE
PHILO.
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CÉLINE FOLLOWS AN ETHOS, WHICH IS THE KEY FACTOR IN CREATING
THE BRANDS IDENTITY & KEEPING IT CONSISTENT. THE BRAND
IDENTITY IS ELEMENTS OF TIMELESS CASUAL MEETS ELEGANCE
WOMENSWEAR, WITH A MINIMALISTIC APPROACH BUT REMAINING
ROMANTIC. ALL OF THESE FACTORS CONTRIBUTE TO PIN POINT
PARISIAN CHIC, FOR A WOMEN WHO LEADS A BUSY LIFESTYLE. THE
PIECES FIT IN WITH HER NO MATTER WHERE SHE IS.
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RETAIL
PLAIN AND SIMPLE STORE CONCEPT. VERY MINIMAL,
THE FOCUS IS ON THE GARMENTS.
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MUSEUM LIKE PRESENTATION OF LEATHER
GOODS. SIMPLE GLASS BOXES, YET
SO AFFECTIVE. ADDS TO THE BRAND
PHILOPOSHY OF KEEPING IT CLEAN BUT
INOVATIVE, & THE ROMANTIC ELEMENT OF
LOOKING AT DIAMONDS THROUGH A GLASS
CASE.
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BRAND I NG
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A/W 2013 CAMPAIGN
A/W 2012 CAMPAIGN
IN KEEPING WITH THE BRAND PHILOSOPHY, CÉLINE HAS CREATED A DISTINGUISHED BRAND. THROUGHOUT EVERY CAMPAIGN
CÉLINE REMAINS COHERENT IN BEING ABLE TO COMMUNICATE THE BRAND PHOTOGRAPHICALLY. EACH CAMPAIGN IS MINIMAL,
BACKGROUNDS ARE KEPT MINIMAL, AND THE STYLING IS SIMPLE. THE MINIMALISTIC APPROACH KEEPS THE CAMPAIGNS
TIMELESS AND CONTEMPORARY. THE FILTERS USED ADD THAT CLASSIC TOUCH OF ROMANCE, WHICH IS A KEY FACTOR OF
DEFINING CÉLINE.
A RUNNING THEME FOLLOWS EVEN IN TO
THE BRANDING FOR CÉLINE, MINIMAL IN
EVERYTHING, FROM SWING TAG TO HANGERS,
JUST SIMPLE FONT THAT NOTES THE BRAND
NAME. WHITE WOODEN HANGERS WITH SILVER
CLIPS ADD LUXURIOUSNESS TO THE BRANDING.
IT’S ALL VERY SIMPLE BUT EFFECTIVE IN
COMMUNICATING THE BRAND.
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CORE SEASON PALETTE COLOURS
Céline
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AW2013
THE AW2103 COLLECTION WAS A VERY SOFT & MUTED PALETTE.
ALTHOUGH THE COLLECTION FEATURES SEVENTEEN COLOURS, MOST
OF THESE ARE USED AS ACCENT & FASHION COLOURS. THE BRIGHT
ACCENT COLOURS WERE PICKED UP MORE THROUGH THE GRAPHIC
LONDON LAUNDRY BAG REFERENCE PRINT, WHICH WAS USED IN A
FEW KEY LOOKS. THE REST OF THE COLLECTION IS MAINLY COLOUR
BLOCKING THROUGH FABRIC COMBINATION OR THROUGH CLEAN
PATCHWORKING, WHICH IS A SIGNATURE PRACTISE FOR CÉLINE.
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AW2013
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SS2012
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RST2014
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DE TA I L
&
M AT E RI A L
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DETAIL
AW2013
AW2012
RST2014
THE AW13 DETAILS ARE KEY TO
MAKING THE VERY ROMANTIC,
FEMININE COLLECTION A LITTLE
HARSH USING STRUCTURE; WITH SILK
BINDINGS AS OUTLINES, CONCEALED
ZIPS AND UNTRADITIONAL SEAMS THAT
ADDED DIMENSIONS TO SILHOUETTES.
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THE LATEST CÉLINE COLLECTION,
RESORT 2014 SHOWS MUCH A MORE
RELAXED & A LESS FINESSE IN ITS
DETAILS,
A PLAYFUL COLLECTION WITH GLITCH
LIKE DETAILS, SUCH AS THE PATCHWORK,
AND THE REVERSE OF INSERTING THE
BACK BELT OF A TRADITIONAL COAT,
TO THE FRONT OF THE GARMENT. THIS
COLLECTION WAS ABOUT EXAGGERATING
THE USUAL UNSEEN DETAIL.
MATERIAL
KNITTING/ WEAVING NEW
FASHION FABRICS IS
BECOMING A SKILL FOR
CÉLINE.
A VARIETY OF WOOLS ARE
USED BY CÉLINE, MAINLY
DOUBLE FACED CASHMERE BUT
THE AW13 COLLECTION CÉLINE
INTRODUCED MOHAIR.
WITHOUT FAIL EVERY CÉLINE
USES LEATHERS IN A VARIETY
OF COLOURS, TEXTURES &
SKINS. SKINS RANGE, FROM
CALF SKIN,OSTRICH, &
PYTHON.
NOTORIOUS FOR THE USE OF
FURS, NO MATTER THE SEASON
CÉLINE USES FUR RANGING
FROM, FOX, MINK TO PONY.
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P ROD UC T
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GARMENTS RANGE £110-£3,000
JEWELLERY RANGE FROM £195- £575
CÉLINE IS A HIGH LUXURY BRAND; THEREFORE THE QUALITY IN TERMS OF FABRIC RANGE &
FINISHINGS IS TO THE HIGHEST OF STANDARDS. THE PRODUCTS RANGE FROM GARMENTS, TO
JEWELLERY, AND LEATHER GOODS SUCH AS SHOES, HANGBAGS AND LUGGAGE. THE PRICINGS FOR
CLOTHING VARY FROM £110-£3,000, JEWELLERY RANGES FROM £295- £1,160. THE SHOES RANGE
FROM £325-£2,075, AFTER CLOTHING, CELINE’S BEST SELLING DIVISION IS THE LEATHER
GOODS, RANGING FROM £320-£4,760. FROM THE PRICING IT IS EVIDENT OF CÉLINE’S POSITION
ON THE MATRIX FOR LUXURY BRANDS.
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BERLINGOT MOHAIR & CALFSKIN CLUTCH
RANGE £500-£800
THIGH HIGH BOOT RIDER CALFSKIN|ORSTRITCH
SHOE RANGE £470-£2,075
TRAPEZE & OTHER LEATHER GOODS
RANGE £1,280-£3,420
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PRICE LISTING FOR A//W 2013 COLLECTION
FORTUNE COOKIE MOHAIR|CALF SKIN|CANVAS
RANGE £1,200-£1,450
G A P
I N
T H E
M A R K E T .
CELINE IS A SUCCEEDING BRAND ALONE WITH IT’S CURRENT AVLIABLE
PRODUCTS; HOWEVER I THINK CELINE CAN EXTEND THEIR CONSUMER
MARKET BY ADDING A MENSWEAR LINE.THE MENSWEAR SECTOR CAN BE
A NEGLECTED DIVISON, WHICH CREATES A GAP IN TO THE MARKET. I
INTEND TO DESIGN A MENSWEAR LINE FOR CELINE. THE LINE WILL
RUN PARALLEL TO THE CURRENT BRAND IDENTITY, THE COLLECTION
WILL BE IDENTIFIABLE, AS PART OF CELINE.
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Céline
MENSWEAR
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MY RESPONSE TO THE GAP IN THE MARKET IS TO CREATE A MENSWEAR LINE FOR CÉLINE.
ABOVE IS THE RANGE OUTLINE, AFTER RESEARCH AND ANALYSIS OF THE BRAND MY
CONCLUSION IS TO DESIGN A COLLECTION THAT IS COMPLIMENTARY TO THE WOMENSWEAR
LINE. THE MENSWEAR LINE’S KEY FEATURE WILL BE THE FINISHINGS & NON TRADITIONAL
FASTENING FOR TRADITIONAL GARMENTS, BUT ALSO DETAILS SUCH AS SEAMS & POCKETS
THAT ADD TO DEFINING THE SILHOUETTES.
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AW2013
L A N V I N
LOOK 25
LOOK 26
LOOK 27
LOOK 28
Lanvin is an aspirational brand because i
find their menswear collection to be innovative without being dramatic. Emphasis is
on construction & the use of luxury fabrics.
The use of poetic colour palettes for menswear is very brave, but it gives Lanvin this
romantic quality. Every season there is a
consistant reference to1950’s menswear.
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SS2013
Jil Sander as an aspirational brand is exemplary. Regardless of the head designer the
brand’s ethos is well understood. The practise of the Bauhaus movement is stil very much
evident in the brand, with the use of primary
colours and linear lines. Jil Sander is playful at the same time as being sophisticated
and minimal.
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TH E C ONS UME R
MY TARGET CONSUMER WORKS EQUALLY AS MY MUSE,
BECAUSE MY CONSUMER TECHNICALLY DOES NOT
EXSIST FOR CELINE. MY CONSUMER IS A VISUAL
REPRESENTATION OF THE BRAND. IN KEEPING WITH
CELINE’S PHILOSOPHY, THE MENSWEAR LINE WILL
REFLECT THE YOUTHFULNESS, INNOCENCE AND
ROMANTISIM OF CELINE. THE COLLECTION WILL BE
TARGETED FOR MEN AGES 17-35. THE TARGET CONSUMER
LEADS A LIFESTYLE THAT INVOLVES REFUSAL TO STAY
PUT, CONVERSATING OVER LATE NIGHT DINNERS WITH
FRIENDS, HE & HIS FRIENDS ARE A SOCIAL CULT.
SMOKING IS ONE OF HIS BAD HABITS.
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