What To Do, Where To Go and Who To Meet in
Transcription
What To Do, Where To Go and Who To Meet in
What To Do, Where To Go and Who To Meet in Champagne Your Essential Guide to The Champagne Region By Yvonne Halling Welcome to What to Do, Where to Go and Who to Meet in Champagne, where you’ll find essential tips on what you absolutely need to know when planning your next trip to this beautiful unspoilt region of France. Hello! I’m Yvonne Halling and together with my husband Jiles and our two now grown up daughters, have been living here in Champagne for over 20 years. I run “Les Molyneux” right in the heart of the Montagne de Reims area of the Champagne region where we welcome guests from all over the world and help them to discover the hidden gems of the region. Our network extends far and wide so whatever you want to do, or whoever you want to meet, we can help you. We hope to be able to welcome you very soon Jiles & Yvonne Halling ©Yvonne Halling http://bedandbreakfastinchampagne.com Tel: +33 326 48 20 52 Website: http://bedandbreakfastinchampagne.com Email: [email protected] Tel: 0033 326 48 20 52 ©Yvonne Halling http://bedandbreakfastinchampagne.com Tel: +33 326 48 20 52 This guide is designed to help you get the most out of your trip to Champagne, so here’s what you’ll find inside: 1. Which champagne houses are the best ones to visit? 2. One day only in Champagne – what to do? 3. Sunday Opening – not likely either, but creeping in 4. Small Champagne Producers – would you like to meet them? 5. Markets and where to find them 6. Getting around – what you need to know 7. What if I don’t drink? – no problem ©Yvonne Halling http://bedandbreakfastinchampagne.com Tel: +33 326 48 20 52 1. Which Champagne houses are the best ones to visit? Depending on how long you’re planning to stay in the area, we always recommend visiting at least one of the larger houses. Veuve Clicquot, Taittinger, Mumm, Pommery, Ruinart and Lanson are in Reims and Moet et Chandon, Perrier Jouet, De Castellane and Mercier are in Epernay. The real reason to visit a large champagne house is not to taste the champagnes (although that’s always a lovely thing to do!) but for the history and the stories they tell. ©Yvonne Halling http://bedandbreakfastinchampagne.com Tel: +33 326 48 20 52 It’s always a good idea to visit one in Reims and one in Epernay. Why? The champagne cellars in Epernay were dug during the 1700/1800s and look a lot like the London Underground. There are approx 110 kms of tunnels underneath the town itself. On the other hand, the champagne cellars in Reims consist mostly of what are chalk pits, called “crayeres” in French and were dug by the Romans during the 4th century not for storing champagne but for the chalk which they wanted for their buildings. It wasn’t until Dom Perignon was busy discovering that the second fermentation inside the bottles created bubbly, that they also discovered the temperature in the “crayeres” was perfect for storing the wines. And so the big champagne houses moved in, and dug tunnels to link them together. The crayeres are quite spectacular and really something to see. The very best examples are at Taittinger where the Abbey of St. Nicaise once stood and the old cloisters of the abbey form part of Taittinger’s cellars. But all of the champagne houses in Reims and Epernay are well worth a visit. Keep in mind that the temperature in the cellars is a constant 11 degrees centigrade, so you may need a sweater. ©Yvonne Halling http://bedandbreakfastinchampagne.com Tel: +33 326 48 20 52 2. One Day only in Champagne – what to do? If you’re planning to come to Champagne for just one day, then my advice would be to extend your visit to at least 2 days. Many of our guests who are passing through or just visiting from Paris as part of their French holiday wish they had allowed more time to explore this beautiful region. However, if you really do only have one day to spare, here’s a couple of suggestions for you: ©Yvonne Halling http://bedandbreakfastinchampagne.com Tel: +33 326 48 20 52 Organise your trip well in advance and make appointments ahead of time to avoid being disappointed or simply wasting time. Get up early and be at one of the larger champagne houses in either Reims or Epernay for their first tour in the morning. Decide where you will eat lunch (you’ll be hungry after a champagne tasting!) Enjoy your lunch at one of the many restaurants in the centre of both towns. In Epernay, we recommend La Banque and La Grillade and in Reims we recommend Le Boulingrin, L’Apostrophe or any one of the many situated in Place d’Erlon (the pedestrianised zone in the centre of the city) After lunch, either drive or take the train from Reims to Epernay or vice versa and visit another of the large champagne houses to experience the different styles of champagne and also to see the cellars. By the end of the day you will be exhausted, but it will have been worth it! Here’s an even better suggestion: Book a one-day tour of the region with one of our trusted and knowledgeable tour guides where you can sit back and relax. Our English-speaking guides love to share their local knowledge and you’ll learn so much more about the people, the places and the bubbly itself. You’ll also get to visit some smaller champagne ©Yvonne Halling http://bedandbreakfastinchampagne.com Tel: +33 326 48 20 52 producers, many of which you’d never find on your own, and you’ll get to talk to the people who actually make the wine – check out details on our website by CLICKING HERE and let us know how we can help you plan a memorable trip to Champagne: 3. Sunday Opening – not likely, but creeping in We’re often asked if the shops are open on Sundays and generally, they’re not. However, if you need groceries, then some of the smaller supermarkets are open between 9am and 12 noon on Sundays. In Epernay, Carrefour City in Place Hughes Plomb (right in the town centre near the post office) is open, as is Carrefour City in rue de Vesle in the centre of Reims. Grand Frais at Cormontreuil (which is an out-of-town shopping centre to the south of the city of Reims), for an amazing selection of quality fruit and vegetables, meat, fish, cheese and dried goods) is also open. The Intermarche at Sillery opens from 9.30am to 12 noon also. Clothes shops, shoe shoes and household shops are not open on Sundays. ©Yvonne Halling http://bedandbreakfastinchampagne.com Tel: +33 326 48 20 52 4. Small Champagne Producers – would you like to meet them? One of the ways we can help you to discover the real Champagne is to let us introduce you to some of the best of the smaller, less wellknown champagne producers. Our large network means that you won’t have to waste time driving around, to find one that’s open. Let us guide you through the vineyards and villages, allowing you to take in the sights and stories of the region, while you relax and simply enjoy the bubbly. CLICK HERE to see more on our tailormade Champagne tours and tastings. If you prefer to find your own way, then let me give you a couple of pointers: ©Yvonne Halling http://bedandbreakfastinchampagne.com Tel: +33 326 48 20 52 In Verzy, be sure to visit La Maison Penet where Alexandre and his wife Martine will welcome you to their tasting room and cellars. La Maison Penet makes a range of low-dosage champagnes which are well worth your time. In Bouzy, we recommend Edmund Barnaud and their wonderful little gift shop for those souvenirs you’ll need to take home. The mostly pinot-noir based champagne’s good too. In Cramant, Pierre Gimmonet will welcome you to their wonderful chardonnay-based champagnes (blancs de blancs) from the Cotes des Blanc area of Champagne. A great place for lunch is Au 36 in Hautvilliers where your tastebuds will be treated to an array of canapes with matching champagnes. We recommend you make appointments ahead of time. There is usually a fee of anything between €10 and €40 euros depending on what you choose to taste and if you buy anything, the fee is usually waived. To find out more about our favourite small producers and the amazing champagnes they make, pick up Your Personal Guide to Champagne by CLICKING HERE ©Yvonne Halling http://bedandbreakfastinchampagne.com Tel: +33 326 48 20 52 5. Markets and where to find them Visiting French markets is one of the joys of visiting this country and the Champagne area is no exception. Here’s where and when you can find the markets: Epernay Halle St Thibault on Saturday mornings Reims Boulingrin on Saturday mornings Rue Jean Jaures on Sunday mornings Smaller markets can be found in some of the larger villages, for example on Friday mornings in Sillery ©Yvonne Halling http://bedandbreakfastinchampagne.com Tel: +33 326 48 20 52 6. Getting around – what you need to know There’s not much in the way of public transport in Champagne, except the local train between Reims and Epernay and you’ll need to check the timetable by CLICKING HERE It takes about 30 minutes each way. It’s really much better if you have a car to wander round the countryside and villages, taking in the views and beautiful scenery. There’s a gorgeous view point between Hautvillers and Cumieres and there’s some information there for you to read. ©Yvonne Halling http://bedandbreakfastinchampagne.com Tel: +33 326 48 20 52 There are plenty of quiet roads and vineyard trails on which to cycle or walk. The disused railway line called the CBR links all of the villages and runs for about 400 kms. Some of it, especially outside of the villages is not properly maintained, but with a good mountain bike or some tough hiking shoes you won’t have a problem. 7. What if I don’t drink? – no problem If you don’t like to drink champagne, don’t worry. Visiting the large international brands’ cellars such as Moet et Chandon or Taittinger is really more about the history and the stories of the original families. You’ll find it fascinating to learn. Eugene Mercier for example, founder of Champagne Mercier in Epernay was a real character and the tour experience in the cellars is a perfect match for his flamboyant and entrepreneurial style. ©Yvonne Halling http://bedandbreakfastinchampagne.com Tel: +33 326 48 20 52 There are also many other things to do in Champagne unrelated to the bubbly. Try taking a boat out on the River Marne from the dock in Epernay, or visit the lighthouse in Verzenay. Originally built by a local producer as a folly, it’s now an award winning museum. What about climbing up into the trees in the forest between Verzy and Verzenay to take a tree top obstacle course, finishing with a zip wire back base? There’s a tree top champagne bar there too! Shopping or people watching in Place d’Erlon in Reims over a coffee is always fun, or simply going for a walk in the calm and tranquillity of the forests and vineyards. I hope that you’ve enjoyed reading, and that I’ve inspired you to come and visit Champagne. Please do take a look at our website by CLICKING HERE Looking forward to welcoming you to your home from home in Champagne and of course, if you have any questions, I’d love to hear from you. Yvonne & Jiles ©Yvonne Halling http://bedandbreakfastinchampagne.com Tel: +33 326 48 20 52 Website http://bedandbreakfastinchampagne.com Email [email protected] Tel +33 326 48 20 52 ©Yvonne Halling http://bedandbreakfastinchampagne.com Tel: +33 326 48 20 52